The Best of Myanmar: Golden Land of Hidden Gems

The Best ofMYANMAR Golden Land of Hidden Gems



The Best ofMYANMAR Golden Land of Hidden Gems

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PAST and PRESENT 11PAST and PRESENT

12 Nestled in between China, South Asia and Southeast Asia, Myanmar is almost unique – its geographic diversity and multi-ethnic population make the country a colorful kaleidoscope and represent one of the most fascinating lands in the region. It is the largest country in mainland Southeast Asia – but remains one of the poorest countries in the region. It is larger than any European country and about the same size as Texas in the United States: 678,000 square kilometers. It stretches 2,052 kilometers from the northernmost mountainous region near the Tibetan border to the mangrove forests on the Bay of Bengal, bordering Thailand. It stretches 936 km from the Bangladesh border in the West to the eastern extreme on the Mekong River, on the Thai border. It is a mixture of mountains – the highest, Hkakabo in Kachin State in the north on the Chinese border, 5,581 meters – jungle terrain and lowlands. It has long porous borders: 244 km with Bangladesh, 1,379 km with India, 2,185 km with China, 201 km with Laos and 2,114 km with Thailand. Rivers and streams flow throughout the country. The longest river is the Irrawaddy (or Ayeyarwaddy), which is the country’s most renowned geographical feature, flowing from north to south. British poet and writer Rudyard Kipling nicknamed it “the road to Mandalay”. Around this river is the country’s main rice growing areas. Once Asia’s largest producer of rice, known as the “Rice bowl of Asia” in the years after World War II, it remains one of the region’s largest rice exporters, after Thailand and Vietnam, though no longer enjoying its exulted position as the largest rice producer.

PAST and PRESENT 13A myriad of rivers and tributaries intersect the country, the key ones are the Salween, which flows from southwest China, in TOPthe Tibetan plateau, and the Chindwin, which flows into the Ayeyarwaddy from the west in central Myanmar. Most of theserivers are largely navigable. These rivers are the country’s arteries – and the mountain ranges, East Yoma, Bago Yoma and Cruise onWest Yoma, stand like sentries guarding the country from unwanted intruders. The Ayeyarwaddy River with view ofThe country is also inundated with lakes – Yangon boasts two important, picturesque spots: Kandawgyi and Inya Lakes. But Sagaingthe most renowned is Inle Lake in central Myanmar’s Shan State, a freshwater lake some 884 meters above sea level. It is 22km long, 9 km across its widest point and some 116 square kilometers. Although not large, the lake contains over 20 species OPPOSITEof snails and nine species of fish that are unique to the lake. It hosts approximately 20,000 brown and black head migratoryseagulls in November through to January. The local community on the lake’s shores – the Inthas – live from the lake’s Hkakabo, theresources; they travel on the lake using barge-like boats which they paddle with their legs. highest mountain in Myanmar, in KachinMyanmar’s long and varied history has left an indelible and lasting impact on the country’s psyche, outlook and culture. From statethe pre-colonial monarchies or dynasties, through the colonial period of foreign rule, the military dictatorships of General NeWin and Than Shwe, to the fragile experiment with democratic government – in the 1950s and again after 2010.The country’s history dates back some 2,500 years, when Mon settlers migrated southwards from Central Asia, and accordingto legend, the foundation stone of the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, which remains one of the country’s key symbols. TheMon are believed to have brought Buddhism to Myanmar in the 5th Century B.C.

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PEOPLE and CULTURE 19PEOPLE and CULTURE

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PEOPLE and CULTURE 21Myanmar is at the confluence of South Asia, China and Southeast Asia, and this strategic, geographic location is the main determinant of the country’s current make-up. The culture and peoples of those three regions have all heavily influenced the emergence of what is modern Myanmar – it is a diverse country culturally, geographically,ethnically, linguistically and religiously. But its colonial past, under British rule has also been a factor in molding the nationalpsyche and outlook.The majority of people in Myanmar live in the countryside. More than 70 per cent of the population earns their living fromagricultural pursuits – though there are thousands of provincial towns scattered throughout the country. There are severalmajor urban centers, with the largest the former capital, Yangon with a population of 5 million, according to the 2014 census.In the past few years, both under military rule and the quasi-civilian regime of Thein Sein, the city has grown enormously,with new high-rise apartments and office buildings dominating the skyline. Major shopping centers are springing up all overthe city that did not exist five years ago. But traditional Buddhist pagodas remain, dispersed throughout the city, along sidethe sprawling new metropolis.While Yangon is by far the largest city in Myanmar, there are a handful of major towns. Mandalay is the second largestwith some one and a half million inhabitants. Then follows Nay Pyi Taw, the new created capital in 2005, with nearly halfa million people. Nay Pyi Taw, established by the former military leader Senior General Than Shwe, is the country’s politicalcapital and administrative center. Parliament resides there along with ministries, national public service and the military’sheadquarters. Otherwise, there is a dozen other provincial centers with around a quarter of a million inhabitants each:including Bago, Mawlamyine, Myitkyina and Taunggyi.THIS PAGE, FROM FAR LEFTThe Karen;The AkhaOPPOSITEThe ChinPREVIOUS SPREADNovice monks

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FESTIVALS and EVENTS 27FESTIVALS and EVENTS

28 The Golden Land of Myanmar is a nation of festivals, both big and small. Without exception, every month has a nationwide festive occasion, and every location has a significant annual event. Many of the festivals have religious origins, reflecting Myanmar’s animist traditions and rich Buddhist heritage. But even the solemn, reverent observances, that bring many together in Buddhist temples for moments of quiet respect, are accompanied by exuberant performances and a carnival atmosphere late into the night. Myanmar’s festivals are lively cultural expressions, giving visitors an insight into how Burmese live, pray and play. In keeping with the country’s idiosyncratic nature, most of the events are not on fixed dates in the Western calendar, instead being held according to the Buddhist lunar calendar, often as the full moon waxes. It is not uncommon to stumble upon a temple fair, live stage show, agricultural animal trading day, novice procession, or a field concert of the iconic Burmese stalwarts of rock, ‘Iron Cross’. The most ubiquitous events are the temple festivals, ‘paya pwe’ which mix the sacred and the secular, with merit-making offerings and Theravada Buddhist piety inside. Outside the pagoda there are likely to be singers, entertainers, magicians, comedians, story-tellers, musicians, puppeteers, fortune tellers, vendors, night markets and fairground attractions. LEFT Thingyan Festival (Burmese New Year) celebrations held in April RIGHT Thingyan Festival celebrations at U Bein Bridge, Mandalay PREVIOUS Phaung Daw U Boat Procession

FESTIVALS and EVENTS 29 T H I N G YA NAt the side of the stage, an elaborately-attired orchestra provides a percussion- Before the monsoon’s first raindrops as Myanmar swelters at thedriven soundtrack and adds strange sound effects to the chaotic action. The hottest, driest time of year, the whole country shuts down for theall-night program might include re-enactments of the Buddha’s life, royal court massive water-splashing Burmese New Year known as Thingyan.song-and-dance shows, Hindu epics or countryside soap-operas. Universal During this period, copious amounts of water are thrown around tothemes of the battle between good and evil, and the search for a lost love, are wash away the old and usher in the new.also portrayed in marionette shows, comedy sets and plays. Usually falling around 13-16 April at dates determined by astrologicalThe two largest annual events are the Burmese New Year – the joyous water- advisors, the national water-fight shares similarities with water-splashing named Thingyan – and the picturesque festival of lights to mark the splashing festivals in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. However inend of Buddhist Lent and the rainy season – known as Thadingyut. Myanmar, there’s a uniquely Burmese twist on the change-over event.In addition to the festivals marking the cycles of the Theravada Buddhist This is a time when the king of the nat spirits Thagyamin descendscalendar, there are national public holidays scattered throughout the year, with to earth on a golden-winged horse, clutching a water pot and a bookdates fixed on the Western calendar. Myanmar’s ethnic and religious diversity listing the names of the well-behaved and naughty children.means there are also many other regional and local festivals, from ChineseNew Year and Islam’s month of fasting, Ramadan, to the Hindu festival of Youngsters pay their respects to elders, Buddha images are washed,lights and the Christian Christmas. and offerings are made in pagodas and monasteries. To welcome in the new year the front entrances of houses are decorated with flowers andAs well as national public holidays celebrated across the country, there are palm leaves.unique and unusual festivals in Mandalay, Inle Lake, Kyaiktiyo (GoldenRock), Taunggyi, Kyaukse and Myitkyina. There are more than just ancient Amid the merit-making and water soaking, many locals return to theirfestivals in 21st century Myanmar. October sees the prestigious Miss Universe home villages around this time, and most businesses close for aroundMyanmar beauty competition. November holds the Irrawaddy Literary a week or so, making travel difficult and a little hazardous due to thefestival in Yangon or Mandalay mixing accomplished Burmese and overseas volume of people on the move.authors. In March at Maha Bandoola Park there is the Yangon Photo Festivalexhibition. Young folk armed with surprisingly accurate water pistols and powerful water squirt-guns cruise the streets on daytime missions to ensure everyone is soaked to wash away the previous year’s sins and bad luck. Roadside water-dousing stations, blaring loud music, use large buckets, hoses and even fire hydrants to cool off passing vehicles and defenceless pedestrians – only monks and the elderly are safe. In most neighbourhoods, specially-built, decorated pavilions or bamboo stages host teams of flower-garlanded young women in identical outfits who perform choreographed traditional and modern song and dance routines. The assembled crowd, particularly the high-spirited young men, don’t hold back when showering the stage maidens with life-giving water. The water-throwing ends on the first day of the new year, with special feasts held for monks, and the release of captive fish and birds.

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ATTRACTIONS and HIGHLIGHTS 37ATTRACTIONS and HIGHLIGHTS

38YA N G O NYangon is the gateway city for Myanmar for most visitors. It is an exotic, Strand Hotel, visitors can relive the old colonial days with a classic high teachaotic Asian city that is beyond dreams and expectations, yet it remains of cakes and pastries. The Circle Line train is another yesteryear experience,a ‘city trapped in time’. Other capitals around the world have churches, bumping and jolting its way around Yangon, offering a real insight into thestatues, monuments or squares at their very center. Yangon has a pagoda lives of ordinary Yangon residents, who use the slow service as a movingwhich is both a religious structure and a traffic circle – the Sule Pagoda. market. The sprawling Bogyoke Aung San Market bazaar sells about everything you could wish from fabrics to carvings, tapestries, lacquerwareInitially named Dagon, meaning ‘the end of strife’, at the start of the 20th and parasols.century it was considered one of the most modern cities in the world, atrading port growing rich from its exports of teak, rice and oil, with a One of the most significant Buddhist structures and wonders of Myanmar,skyline dominated by towers, spires and domes. By the start of the 20th rising above everything, is the stunning Shwedagon pagoda. The gildedcentury its infrastructure and public services were said to be like those of stupa radiates over Yangon making it a special sight, particularly at duskLondon, with many fine colonial buildings, hospitals, parks and universities. when it exudes a wonderful magic. There are treasures from the past on display at the National Museum, while at nighttime in Chinatown theA highlight of the cosmopolitan city is the legacy of colonial heritage displays are the city’s best fresh food.buildings from the British era, in the vibrant downtown. At the landmark LEFT Sule Pagoda OPPOSITE, FROM TOP A repurposed colonial structure built in 1910; High Court, built in 1905

ATTRACTIONS and HIGHLIGHTS 39SULE PAGODA BOGYOKE AUNG SAN MARKETLocated in the very center of Yangon, the towering golden Sule Pagoda With its distinctive cream facade, the colonial-era heritage listed buildingis a landmark that is both spiritual and material. Said to be 2,500 dating back to 1926 is one of the largest markets in Myanmar. Originallyyears old and housing a sacred Buddha hair, the shining stupa sits called Scott Market, in 1948 it was renamed after Bogyoke (General) Aungat the heart of Yangon’s busiest traffic circle. Thousands of cars and San.buses swirl anti-clockwise around the monument. The focal point hasa magnetic-like attraction, pulling in pilgrims, protesters, beggars and Catering to locals, but popular with visitors, the enormous maze-like complexsightseers. Fortune-tellers line the perimeter of the complex. has nearly 1,900 shops, including dedicated sections to the iconic longyi, jade and jewelry. Open daily, except Mondays and holidays, there’s an informalThe eye-catching gold-plated stupa is incongruous with Yangon’s gem-trading area conducted around an outdoor-teahouse, while towards theskyline, yet the planned city was laid out with the Buddhist structure at back are jewelry stalls and gem testing laboratories. The undercover bazaarits core soon after the British occupation in the mid-19th century. features handicrafts from throughout Myanmar, real antiques as well as decent replicas, art galleries and vendors selling old coins, banknotes andHERITAGE BUILDINGS stamps from Burma’s last 75 turbulent years.Yangon is the only city in Asia that still has hundreds of elegant andimposing buildings left from the colonial era. Myanmar’s backwardnessand under-development has saved some grand buildings.Contained within the checkerboard of streets from the waterfrontto the railway station are dozens of colonial buildings ranging fromVictorian and Queen Anne style through to Neoclassical and ArtDeco, as well as buildings that blend European and Burmese design.Many red brick or pastel-painted stucco buildings were designed at thepeak of the British Empire’s power, resulting in grand administrativebuildings such as the Secretariat and the High Court.Yangon’s diversity is reflected in the concentration of religiousstructures that include Roman Catholic, Protestant and Armenianchurches, Shiite and Sunni mosques, a Jain temple, Hindu shrine andJewish synagogue. The history of Yangon can be traced through itscolonial-era architecture, from the monumental former Reserve Bankof India, to the now derelict Pegu Club, which was once the favoredwatering hole for officers of the British colonial government.One of the quirkiest colonial edifices is the former Sofaer Buildingbuilt by a Jewish immigrant from Baghdad, with an opulent Italianatefaçade, and featuring the first electronic elevator in the city. Today, thebuilding is home to the Lokanat Art Gallery on the first floor.

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FLORA and FAUNA 61FLORA and FAUNA

62 As the largest country in mainland Southeast Asia, stretching almost 2,000 kilometers from beyond the Tropic of TOP Cancer to just above the equator, is it any wonder that Myanmar has such an array of environments, from high snow-capped mountains, thick-forested hills and lush jungles to fertile alluvial deltas, mangrove forests and arid Black orchid plains. OPPOSITE Padauk This variety of habitats gives rise to a proliferation of plants and animals, with nearly 700 mammals and reptiles, more than a thousand different kinds of birds, and around 25,000 flowering species. While some of the flora and fauna are also found in neighboring Bangladesh, India, China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand, a number of animals and some thousand plants only exist in The Golden Land. Teak is the most important tree in Myanmar, its wood much sought-after around the world, while demand for thanaka, the main ingredient in the distinctive cosmetic, is mainly domestic. As well as some familiar flowering plants such as roses, asters, lilies and magnolia, Myanmar has some rather special species such as the lipstick plant, the rare black orchid, the showy Pride of Burma, and the appropriately named ‘The Weeping Goldsmith’. The heartland of Myanmar’s flower industry is the highland town of Pyin oo Lwin near Mandalay, where chrysanthemums, gladioli and vibrant asters are grown around the town, and the nation’s floral bounty is on display at the splendid Kandawgyi National Gardens.

FLORA and FAUNA 63TEAK Found in pristine untouched lowland forests growing on the higher branches of tall trees, it is regarded as a royal celestial flower. In the days of BurmeseThe most sought-after of the tropical hardwoods Tectona grandis is said to kings, the best blooms of thazin found by jungle hunters were presentedbe nature’s gift to mariners. It is also Myanmar’s gift to the world, with the to the ruling king. Harvested in the wild, the sought-after flower is nowcountry holding 80% of the world’s remaining natural teak. The industry is cultivated indoors. With many words extolling its beauty, the rare daintyestimated to be worth US$1.2 billion a year, though much of the timber is orchid with a heady fragrance is worn in the hair of Burmese women,smuggled across to China and Thailand, and then on-sold to Scandinavian making it the favorite of brides.furniture manufacturers. BLACK ORCHIDThe large, deciduous tree has small, fragrant white flowers and paperyleaves that are often hairy on the lower surface. The tree can survive in a Very rare and very local, found only in the wild in northern Kachin statewide range of environments, from arid, dry areas to high rainfall slopes, and near Myanmar’s highest peak Hkakabo Razi, the black orchid is special.can grow up to 40 meters high. It can take anything from 40 to 80 years Known as ‘Khun Mya Hlaing’ in Burmese, or by its Latin name in honourbefore teak is harvestable size. The durable timber is yellowish brown with of its Western finder, Paphiopedilum Wardii sometimes hides behind rocks,good grains and texture, and is used to make outdoor furniture, boat decks, but is a showy, fragrant, attractive plant with light green leaves mottledinteriors and flooring. dark green, with red-purple spotting on the underside of the leaf. Named by British botanist Frank Kingdon-Ward in 1920, over the last century it hasBurmese teak logging began during the British colonial period, and today been declared extinct several times. However recent ‘re-discoveries’ suggestMyanmar is the only nation, which still harvests teak trees from natural there are less than a thousand plants left in the wild, though deforestationforest – often using elephants for the task. and illegal trade threaten its survival.PADAUKThe tiny yellow-gold flower of the Burmese rosewood, called ‘Padauk’, isregarded a national flower of Myanmar. The tropical forest tree, whichcan grow up to 30 meters high, has heavy, termite-resistant, durable woodmaking it a top choice for furniture and buildings.Blossoming after the first showers in April, the entire tree turns goldovernight coinciding with the water-splashing Thingyan, the Burmese NewYear. It is regarded as a symbol of strength and durability, as well as youth,love and romance. The fragrant flowers are always part of ceremonies, andare worn as adornments. When its grey bark is cut, a red gum bleeds fromthe tree.THAZIN ORCHIDAnother national flower is a delicate regal orchid, which blooms gracefulsprays of tiny yellowish-white flowers symbolizing purity. The thazin orchid– Bulbophyllum auricomum – opens its fragrant flowers in early winterrevealing a long stem of small nodding flowers. The miniature blooms hangdown like little pearly strings.

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ART and ARTISTS 71ART and ARTISTS

72Myanmar in all its glorious diversity offers several ancient and By 1988, what we now call contemporary art truly emerged amongst the modern windows into how art history developed over hundreds artists residing in Yangon, Mandalay and surrounding areas. It was also of years. From animist belief systems and Buddhism, to political the year when the infamous 8/8/88 protests engulfed Rangoon University,organizations and ethnic geographies, art history was shaped by the people followed by a violent backlash from the military government. Aung Sanand places where culture was also a form of communication. Some of the Suu Kyi emerged as her people’s new leader. It was this pivotal year whenearliest references to painting are seen in the pagodas of Bagan and Mrauk Myanmar’s young people discovered a crusade worth fighting for. WithU. What were once detailed and colorful frescoes are now only remnants previous generations as their teachers and inspiration, young artists andor outlines, but these murals are indications of the importance placed on intellectuals emerged from this period defiant of their military rulers andcommunicating religious stories and teachings through art. determined to escape from censorship and poverty through expression. Here, we discuss those pioneers in the contemporary art scene, their stylesFrom the 11th to 19th centuries, what we now know as Myanmar was and influences, as well as their predecessors, carrying Myanmar art into thebroken down and reunified by a series of dynastic rulers, and at times future.included parts of what is now India and Thailand. Art flourished in theseperiods, as royal court painters, temple builders, craftsmen and weavers Yangon and Mandalay are the cultural capitals of Myanmar. Not onlybenefited from the constant exchange and discovery of materials and are they centers of trade and commerce, but they are also where previousmethods. Famous artist Saya Chone was one of the few artists who made governments and kings established their bases. Yangon, in lower Myanmar,the transition from court painter, during the reign of the country’s last king, is a cosmopolitan city surrounded by a river delta region. The Shwedagonto portrait painter and commercial artist under British rule. Pagoda and colonial-era architecture are the most famous sites, and dozens of galleries and art spaces dot the city. Most galleries are commercial andAfter the Anglo-Burmese Wars (1824-1885), Myanmar became a province rent their spaces to artists for exhibitions. These include Lokanat Galleryof British India and the last Burmese monarch was exiled. Politically fraught (the country’s oldest art gallery founded in 1972), River Gallery, Pansodanthough this period was, what emerged from the art scene was a new and Gallery, Nawaday Tharlar Gallery, The Yangon Gallery and several others inaccomplished group of painters, who were schooled in Western style art Yangon’s famous Bogyoke Market. Other galleries double as artist studiosusing oil paints and muted colors. British academics and officers formed – such as Tiger Gallery, Inya Art Gallery, Beikthano Gallery and Studiothe Burma Art Club and several Burmese painters joined and trained as Square. Still others serve the community by providing educational resourcespart of the organization, depicting religious events and everyday life in and exhibition space, like New Zero Art Space and Myanm/art.Myanmar in a new and exciting way. However, in the minds and hearts ofthe Burmese painters, it was important to gain new knowledge and skill, Yangon’s scene is established and supported by its artists, not by thewhile maintaining a particularly Burmese style, keeping traditional motifs government. There is one museum in Yangon – the National Museum –and subject matters alive through their work. where a selection of paintings is on display, among thousands of artifacts, costumes, and other memorabilia. But this is not considered an art museumAfter independence in 1947, Myanmar went through its first democratic and the government has yet to fund any contemporary art projects.transition. It was a thrilling time for artists and thinkers alike, and many However, there are non-government organizations that help to supportemerged from this time as young and enthusiastic modern artists. However, the creative community in Myanmar. The Goethe Institute, the Frenchin 1962, a military coup organized by General Ne Win re-established a Institute, and the Japan Foundation are the most notable patrons, providingculture of fear and protest, much like the British colonization had done funding, public space, networks, and training to creative courses, projectdecades earlier. Artists were no longer permitted to speak or express opportunities, and a chance to express freely and without oversight fromthemselves freely. Supplies and materials became scarce, and information particular ministries.from outside of the country even scarcer. The artists of Myanmar had to relyon themselves and each other to learn about new art concepts, share ideas Mandalay is an older city than Yangon, and its surrounds are chock-fulland translate their styles and subjects to a select audience. of precious Buddhist history. It preserves the traditional arts through its workshops and artisans, but maintains some distance from contemporary

ART and ARTISTS 73art. Many well-known masters of Myanmar art came from Mandalay. It is U LUN GYWEstill a place of important history, upheld in the hearts of Burmese people.But it no longer serves as a center of contemporary art. This does not mean A man who is considered by many to be Myanmar’s most prolific painter,that it will not rise again in the future as a relevant center of discourse for U Lun Gywe depicts in his paintings an ephemeral quality for the viewer.many artists and researchers. With light-hearted brushstrokes and impressionist style, he manages to capture light and movement in his subject matter, whether it is a womanMany of the greatest inspirations of art mastery of this period are no longer smoking or dancing, a thundering landscape scene, or a smooth lakesidealive, and in some cases passed away around 1988, but we would like to view. For many years, he was a teacher at the State School of Fine Art inacknowledge them here as leaders in abstraction as well as establishing Yangon, and in the 1990s devoted himself entirely to painting, producinga national identity in their art concepts. They are Bagyi Aung Soe, Khin over 50 works of art every month. He is also one of very few painters everMaung (Bank) Aung Khin, Paw Oo Thet, Khin One, and Khin Maung Yin. to go to international auction.All of the artists detailed below were either taught or were admirers of theseartists, and they helped to foster the revolution in contemporary Myanmarart today. TOP PREVIOUS Paying Homage to Buddha, 2009 Traditional Dancers, 2005 U Lun Gywe U Lun Gywe LEFT Beauty, 2007 U Lun Gywe

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HOTELS and RESORTS 81HOTELS and RESORTS

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HOTELS and RESORTS 83Myanmar’s hospitality scene offers the visitor a range of rooms from colonial-era grandeur to beachside villas and the biggest names in the hotel business.Though Mandalay, Bagan and the capital of Nay Pyi Taw have some excellent upscale choices, ground zero forhoteliers is still Yangon. Across Southeast Asia, where the past is being bulldozed in the name of the present,this port city and former lynchpin in the British Empire still has plenty of old-world charms, especially itsarchitecture.On this list of metropolitan treasures, the Strand Hotel looms large. Stepping into the hotel, originallyconstructed in 1903, is like time traveling back to that era of empire building. The lobby is decorated withmuseum-worthy furnishings, photos and chandeliers: motifs that are carried over in the spacious suites, eachof which comes with a personal butler. Guests can also take high tea at the Strand Café and dine in style at thehotel’s signature restaurant.Another venerable name in hospitality is the Shangri-La. Yangon’s local version, known as the Sule Shangri-La, is smack dab in the city’s most historic district and exudes all the time-honored Asian exoticism associatedwith the brand. On the upper floors of this 22-storey edifice, business travelers can enjoy all the perks andworkstations on the executive floors.Near Kandawgi Lake and the Shwedagon Pagoda is another major player in the hotel arena: the ChatriumHotel Royal Lake Yangon, which has hosted such business luminaries as George Soros and political stalwartsas Hillary Clinton. Embellished with a massive collection of specially curated Myanmar artworks, the hotelhas a grand selection of restaurants (Chinese, Japanese and international) as well as some cool nightlife venuesand beautiful gardens.A new player in Yangon is the Lotte Hotel, part of the Korean brand, picturesquely situated beside InyaLake. The hotel’s cutting-edge design, its rooms which exude elegant simplicity, and its Korean restaurant,Mungungwha, are going to ensure that this hotel develops a loyal clientele of repeat visitors.Moving over to Bagan, this massive site of ruins and beautifully preserved temples has hotels and resorts thatcan almost equal that rustic magnificence. Take the Hotel @ Tharabar Gate as an excellent example. This eco-sensitive property is a paragon of sustainability, using local fabrics, lacquerware paintings, marble and coconutshells to stunning effect in a naturally handsome setting.When in Mandalay, the peak of the hotel scene, both literally and figuratively, may well be the Mandalay HillResort Hotel, which affords breath-stealing views of the hill, the Royal Palace and the Ayeyarwaddy River,from more than 200 rooms embellished with antiques and artworks.To really get away from it all, head to the Ngapali Bay Villas and Spa, situated on a scenic beach facing theBay of Bengal on Rakhine State’s western seaboard. The sea-view villas boast maximum comfort and floor-to-ceiling windows while the resort is an enclave of local tourism that offers many chances to explore this little-visited region.

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RESTAURANTS and CAFÉS 105RESTAURANTS and CAFÉS

106 RGOAMR D E N S Myanmar has witnessed an incredible boom in its S E ED restaurant business since the country opened to the international community in April 2011, after PMHAOYTBOE A half a century of military rule. F Local and international players are striving to secure a place in various niche markets offering a diversity of cuisines and an incredible choice that was not available previously. Yangon is a prime playing field followed by other major cities such as Mandalay, Bagan and Nay Pyi Taw. Adding to Yangon’s existing fine dining options, namely The Strand Hotel, Le Planteur and L’Opera, we see the arrival of modern concept fine dining at SEEDS by Michelin Star Chef Felix Eppisser and his wife, Lucia, and The Yangon Restaurant famed for its garden view of the iconic People’s Park. For casual dining, many places such as Hard Rock Café, Harry’s, and Mahlzeit German restaurant have gained popularity with local diners, expatriate residents and tourists. Apart from independent standalone cafés, there has been an increase in new restaurants located in hotels, especially following the opening of the Lotte Hotel and Serviced Apartments, with its three new restaurants and Hotel G with Babett Eateries, recently acclaimed as an “IT” place for Yangonites. Visitors to Myanmar should not miss the opportunity to experience local cuisine. The long-established Padonmar enjoys a loyal following and the newer Rangoon Tea House is also a popular choice for high quality Myanmar food served in a hospitable setting. Mandalay Tea Room in Yankin Township offers Mandalay style breakfast and lunch. For those with more adventurous taste buds, local ethnic cuisine is served at ROOT, the only Wa restaurant and bar in Yangon. Currently, foreigners cannot travel to the Wa region, but the restaurant makes it possible for the food of this region to travel to Yangon offering visitors an opportunity learn more about Wa ethnic culture. Additionally, there are other regional food themes hailing from Kachin (Chin Ngan Sat), Rakhine (Min Lann), Shan (Shan Yoe Yar) and Mon (Jana Mon).

RESTAURANTS and CAFÉS 107Besides traditional fare from various regions around the country, visitors can enjoy an amazing variety of European and Asiandishes as more international restaurants open. For Thai food there is the popular award-winning Royal Jasmine AuthenticThai Cuisine and for a selection of Southeast Asia’s top dishes Sofaer & Co, Asia House and Monsoon.Ren Kandawgyi, or Menzo and Ippudo for Ramen, are favorites for Japanese food. Marina is home to fine-dining Indiancuisine, Mugungwha and Sorabol for Korean, Paradise Dynasty, White Rice and Beauty in the Pot for Chinese. Westerncuisine is served at Sharky’s, The West Steakhouse and the new 50th Street Café Restaurant and Bar.Complementing the dining experience, Myanmar’s nightlife scene is also expanding at a fast pace. The entrance of Harry’sBar from Singapore, Beer Factory from Malaysia, and Hard Rock Café creates a new chapter in urban entertainment, whichin turn encourages creativity among local entrepreneurs. To gain a competitive edge, local concept bars have emerged suchas Blind Tiger, a speakeasy bar; Jazz in Time, the very first jazz bar in Yangon and Burbrit Brewery, the first microbrewery inYangon.With the magnificent view of Shwedagon Pagoda at night, or Yangon’s bustling downtown street and market scene, rooftopbars are popular. Among them, The Penthouse, The One Entertainment Rooftop Bar, Vista Bar, Atlas, and Yangon Yangon arehighly recommended.The dining scene in Myanmar, particularly Yangon, will continue to advance rapidly with new concepts and creationsevolving in the coming years to tempt new generations of travellers and residents.

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CRUISE and GOLF 119CRUISE and GOLF

120 River cruises are the epitome of the “slow travel” trend. In the digital, hurly-burly world of high-speed everything, this trend urges us to slow down to take in and reflect on what we’re seeing. In the case of Myanmar, a country that teems with waterways and aquatic culture, that means cruising into the very heart of its history and vibrant hinterlands. Expect to see such slices of daily life as fisher-folk casting their nets, farmers ambling past with their livestock, children playing and bathing, monks robed in burgundy red and nuns in pink, village ladies sauntering past with urns on their heads, and craftspeople engaged in the handiwork of their vocations. And you can experience all this while cruising in style down river aboard vessels that are comfortable, safe and luxuriously appointed with all the teakwood and brass trimmings from a bygone era of riverine travel that stretches from the 19th century into the new millennium. These are not mass-market cruises with hundreds of people on board. Some of the smaller vessels may only have room for 14 passengers, which makes for a more intimate experience and a chance to bond with other travelers and crew. It also means that cabins have plenty of living space and come with such amenities as en-suite bathrooms, air-conditioning, hot showers and electricity around the clock. The safety standards are also very high. On board are smoke detectors, fire extinguishers, emergency lighting, life jackets and dinghies. So leave your worries back on shore and enjoy all the cultural, historic and culinary immersion. The companies represented here are the crème de la crème. All of them offer golden opportunities to take in the country’s main rivers and backwaters for a few days or a couple of weeks. Included on many of the itineraries are stopovers at the U-Bein Bridge, perhaps the longest and oldest such structure made of teak wood, the heritage-rich former royal capital of Ava, and the temple-studded plains of Bagan. But that’s just stirring the surface of these cruises. Many of them also include visits to local villages and monasteries, onboard performances of traditional music, dance and puppet shows, as well as the chance to spot the elusive Irrawaddy dolphin. Myanmar’s topography is as rich as its culture and, in a country where much of the population dwells in three main river valleys, these cruises will reveal the country’s true art and soul.

CRUISE and GOLF 121 THE STRAND CRUISEThe oldest colonial-era hotel launched their own luxurious cruisesof the Ayeyarwaddy River in 2016 in a lavish take on a traditionalriver cruiser outfitted with all the amenities any discerning travelercould ask for, such as Wi-Fi and individually controlled air-conditioning units.The well-appointed cabins will be your floating home on the twomain itineraries, available from January to April and September toDecember, namely, a three-night odyssey from Mandalay to Baganand a four-night trip from Mandalay to Bagan.Looking over the itinerary for the former program will give youa good idea of what’s in store. Billed as “Wonders and Vistas ofthe Royal Capitals,” the first day begins with a tour of the U-BeinBridge, possibly the longest and oldest teak wood bridge in theworld, before moving on to explore some of the area’s most scenicand historic monasteries and pagodas. Watching the sun set over theriver in a blaze of glory will cap off the day’s sightseeing.The second morning begins with a horse-cart journey to explore theruins of the royal dynasty of Ava, which ran from the 14th to the19th century. Back on board, an Asian-style lunch is the order of theafternoon as the boat wends its way towards Bagan, while guestscan soak up the scenery, chill out by the pool, or watch performingarts on board. Then there’s a cocktail and grill dinner in the boat’sStrand Restaurant.The highlight of the last day is the Bagan Heritage Trail composedof stops at the area’s most architecturally lavish temples that willwhet guests’ appetites for the farewell dinner of exquisite Frenchdining aboard the boat.

ISBN 97861692724109 786169 272410