Acrylic Extension Manual

Acrylic ManualTRAINING ACADEMY ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

CONTENTSPart 1: Anatomy & Physiology 1. Introduction to Acrylic Extensions 2. Structure and Growth of Nails 3. Parts of the Natural Nail 4. Contra – indications A. Common nail disorders B. Trauma related problems C. Medical considerations D. General skin disorders.Part 2: The Treatment 1. The consultation. 2. Preparing product and equipment. 3. Work area preparation. 4. Conducting the treatment. Preparation of the Nail Application of Tips Application of Acrylic powder & Monomer Removal of Acrylic powder & Monomer 5. Post-treatment checks. 6. Cleaning up and storage of product and equipment. 7. Maintaining records of the client.Part 3: General Hygiene 1. General rules 2. Methods of sterilisation 3. Methods of sanitisation 4. Blood Spillage 5. Disposal of Waste 6. Surfaces and Floors 7. Contagious Conditions A. Viruses B. Bacteria C. Fungus D. Infestation ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

CONTENTS (continued)Part 4: Statutory Regulations & Requirements 1. Health & Safety At Work Act 1974 2. The Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations 1992 3. Control Of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) 2002 4. Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 5. Trade descriptions Act 1968 (AMENDED 1987) 6. Sale of Goods Act(1979) and Sale and supply of Goods Act (1994) 7. Cosmetic Products (safety) Regulations 1996 8. Employers liability (compulsory insurance) Act 1969 9. Treatment Liability Insurance 10. Data Protection Act 1984 11. Codes of Practice 12. Codes of Ethics 13. First Aid at Work ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

IntroductionThe work of a nail technician is concerned mainly with creating natural looking falsenails from materials such as acrylic, fibreglass and gel. The false nail is producedeither as a coating for a poor quality natural nail to give it strength as it grows, or asan extension to the natural nail to create extra length. Whatever method is used, nailtreatments are very profitable and there is considerable scope for associated retailsales.There are many different artificial nail systems and technology is advancing at sucha rate that new improved methods seem to be appearing all the time.The main focus of research and development work in nail technology is producing anail which not only looks natural but feels and reacts like a strong, healthy naturalnail, it is comfortable, lightweight, flexible, resilient and not prone to cracking orsplitting. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

What are Nails?The nails are composed of keratin (the substance which forms the base of all hornytissue). The nails are convex on the outer surface and concave on the inner,adhering closely to the underlying tissue.The nails are the protective covering of the last bone of the fingers, they are amodification of the epidermis and are made of clear of the epidermis, joined in acontinuous plate. They grow by the constant multiplication of the soft cells in the nailmatrix. As they grow they are transformed into a solid plate of the nail which ispushed forward on its bed projecting beyond the edge of the finger.The chemical composition of the nail is: Carbon 51% Hydrogen 6% Oxygen 21% Nitrogen 17% Sulphur 5% Structure and Growth of NailsThe part of the nails that we can see are dead. They have no blood supply, nonerves and no means of taking in nourishment from the outside. This can causeconfusion when products and treatments claim to “nourish” and “feed” the nails. Thetrue source of food for the nails is the blood which supplies the living matrix cells, justbehind the nail fold where the eye can’t see.The matrix is the site of nail formation. Some of the protein keratin is deposited here,which is then carried in the cells as they travel along the nail bed. Keratin makes thenails hard and gives them strength. The journey from the matrix to the end of thefingertip takes approximately 6 months and during that time changes take placewhich convert the soft living cells into compacted layers of dead cells held togetherwith a little moisture and fat.Strong nails depend on a supply of blood which carries to the matrix, the break –down products of a healthy balanced diet, rich in protein and calcium. Meat, cheese,milk and eggs are particularly good sources of nourishment for the nails. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Without nails the delicate nerve endings and blood vessels in the ends of the fingerswould soon become damaged. The nails give support from above which enable thefingers to perform many important functions, they also enable the sense of touch.As the cells move along the nail bed more keratin becomes deposited in them sothat by the time a free edge has developed, the nails are perfectly structured toperform their important protective function. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

The Natural NailThe Nail Folds:The nail is surrounded by skin on three sides which is often called the side wall andcuticle, but in actual fact they are the nail folds. The skin doesn’t just stop at the nailplate, it folds over and covers the emerging nail plate.These folds are called proximal and lateral folds. The proximal fold is found at thebase of the nail and the lateral folds at the sides. The proximal folds or cuticle as it issometimes called has the appearance of the skin and can be damaged by cuts,nicks, bruising or harsh chemicals. Once the proximal fold is damaged, bacteria andviruses can attack and cause infection. The proximal fold also forms a seal or barrierthat protects the area where the nail plate is made.The Matrix:The matrix is the only living part of the nail and is a small area of the living tissuefound directly below the proximal fold. The matrix is the most important part of thenail unit. It is here in the matrix that cells are produced which will form the nail plate.The size and width of the matrix will determine the thickness and width of the nailplate, si the thumb matrix is bigger than that of the little finger as the thumb is widerthan the little finger. Damage to the matrix such as shutting your finger in the draweror hitting it with a hammer can produce faults and flaws which, if permanent, can beseen in the nail plate.The Cuticle and The EponychiumThe cuticle is part of the proximal nail fold, to be precise it is the skin that touches thenail plate. There is more to the cuticle than what is visible. The surface skin thatforms the proximal fold is different to the underneath skin. This skin on the undersideof the fold is constantly shedding colourless cells, which attach themselves to theemerging nail plate. They then seem to ride on the nail plate and grow from underthe fold. This is the true cuticle. What we actually see as the skin fold at the base ofthe finger is the Eponychium that we gently push back to reveal the true cuticlewhich can then be carefully removed. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

The Nail Plate:The nail plate is the most visible part of the nail and generally speaking receives themost attention. The nail plate is mostly keratin which is a protein made from aminoacids which is the same chemical substance that forms hair. These special proteinsform a strong flexible material which we call the nail plate. The nail plate is made ofthree layers of these dead cells which become flattened as they emerge from underthe proximal fold, at the enponychium. The cells are held together by a small amountof moisture and fat and contain no blood vessels or nerve endings which is why wecan cut or file them without causing pain, just like hair.It takes roughly 3 – 5 months for the nail to grow and as a general rule for growthrate will be faster in summer than in winter, faster in young people than old people,faster in men than women and also faster on the right for a right handed person andleft for a left handed person. Nail growth is also faster during pregnancy although thisis short – lived.The Half Moon or LunulaThis is the whitish, opaque area at the base of the nail plate and outlines the frontpart of the matrix. The lunula is formed by the cells that have not been flattened sndlost their colour. The lunula is not always visible on every finger, but generallyspeaking it is visible on the thumbs and index fingers. Interestingly, you can tell if aperson is left or right handed by which thumb has the largest lunula. The thumb withthe largest lunula is on the dominant hand and it is usually that hand that has thefastest growth rate of thenail plate as well.The HyponychiumThis is found under the freeedge and is composed ofepidermis skin tissue. Thehyponychium forms a watertight seal that preventsbacteria, fungi and virusesetc, from attacking the nailbed. Care must be takenwhen dealing with this areaas it is very sensitive and ifdamage occurs it could leadto an infection. Onceinfected it might cause thenail plate to lift or separatefrom the nail bed and in some cases lead to loss of the nail plate. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Cuticle Work:All cuticle work should be undertaken with consideration to the living tissue. Only usetools designed specifically for the job. Cuticles need to be kept hydrated so that theyremain pliable and can be kept free from the nail plate. Cuticles that are not caredfoe will eventually split and cause hangnails that can be painful. Your cuticles framethe nail so if the cuticles encroach on the nail plate, this will make painting the nailsmore difficult and spoil the finished look. Improper nail preparation will also lead tolifting problems when apply artificial nails.Square NailsThese are said to be the strongest as the sides are left untouched. If you think of thesides of the nail as the selvage edge of the piece of material that has naturalstrength, if you cut into it then it will fray then so will the nail if you file into it. Filingthe side walls removes the nails strength and thus leaves them weakened and proneto breaking.Squoval NailsThis shape nail is a popular choice for people who like square look and the strengthit offers but with a softer look to the sides. It is the choice of many first timecustomers as it is a halfway house between square and oval. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Oval NailsThis nail shape is a slightly more traditional shape, often known as almond shape.This shape of nail tends to be the most difficult to shape and getting all ten to lookthe same can be taxing. It is probably the weakest nail shape and not suited to allclients. Contra – indicationsA contraindication is a reason as to why a treatment cannot be carried out. Usuallythis is due to a disease or disorder of the nail plate and surrounding skin but it canalso be due to other factors such as broken bones, severe bruising, medicalconditions and allergies/sensitivity to products.As a technician it is NOT our job to diagnose any diseases or disorders, however it isimportant that we recognise the important ones and know how and when to treatthem and when to refer out clients to their GP.Here are a few examples:Onychophagy – more commonly known as bitten nails.Witlows – highly contagious bacterial infection.Pterygium – overgrown sticky cuticles that advance up the nail plate.Koilonychia – spoon shape nails ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Impetigo – a bacterial infection that is characterised by inflation, blisters, pustulesand yellow crusts.We also do not recommend for a client with weak damaged over processed nails tohave a gel polish treatment. Not all contraindications result in not performing atreatment. Some, such as cuts, abrasions or joint pain, may mean the treatment canbe adapted to suit the client.A very detailed consultation will enable you to decide whether to carry out thetreatment if they have specific contra – indications.Asthma – Breathing difficulties:Could be trigged by dust or airborne products such as vapours from monomers andaccelerator sprays. Make sure you offer PPE (personal protective equipment) in theform of a mask at the consultant stage.Broken Bones:Bones that have healed may still require careful handling, especially during massageto avoid any discomfort. Clients should seek GP advice prior to having the treatment.Circulation:Poor circulation gives the nails a blush tinge. This condition could be caused by thethrombosis and massage could be potentially harmful. A client that suddenlydevelops blue nails, should seek advice from GP as could be an underlying condition.Diabetes:Diabetes occurs when there are high levels of sugar in the blood that can be causedby a low production of insulin. This can result in a lack of sensation in the extremitiessuch as the feet and fingers. Cuticle work should be carried out with care and nosharp tools that could cause damage are to be used as healing is slow in theseareas and can cause infection. Severe diabetes sufferers often have open sores ontheir feet that they are unware of so a thorough consultant is needed.Epilepsy – fitting/seizures:In severe suffers these can be triggered by flickering lights, especially whenswitching on UV/LED Lamps or by switching on foot spas.Hypersensitive skin:Anyone with hypersensitive skin should avoid any products that have a high level ofchemicals or stimulants such as cinnamon or caffeine to prevent reaction. A patchtest would be advisable in the crook of the arm. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Pregnancy:Pregnancy could affect the type of treatment we give and also how the treatment willlast. Any treatments using essential oils should avoided in the first 3 months ofpregnancy. Techs might also notice that enhancements may lift where they arenormally been good. The body changes completely when your pregnant, so might bean idea to stop enhancements all together and sticking with natural nail care. It isalso advisable not to use vibrations on the foot spa as this could set off labour.Medication:This can instrumental in the change of the health of the nail plate. A lot ofmedications can seriously alter the health of the nail plate, especially medicineslinked to the heart. Nail growth is affected. Nails become dry and brittle and maystart to peel. Even the most fastidious nail care will make a little difference to thewell – being of the nails and sometimes enhancements are the only solution. Common Nail DisordersNail diseases and conditions of the nail and surrounding skin which results frombacterial, fungal and viral infections. Nail diseases contra – indicate manicure. Thismeans that a manicure must not be given. It is unlikely that a client with a severe naildisease would keep an appointment for a manicure treatment, particularly where thesymptoms are accompanied by pain. However, a therapist might recognise the initialsigns of disease and advice resulting in prompt medical attention could save theclient a lot of discomfort and inconvenience. The main route for infection is throughbroken skin or damaged cuticles.Paronychia:Infections of the nail fold can be caused by bacteria, fungi and some viruses. Theproximal and lateral nail folds act as a barrier, or seal, between the nail plate andsurrounding tissue. If a tear or break occurs in this seal, the bacterium can easilyenter, this type of infections characterised by pain, redness and swelling of the nailfolds. It is highly contagious. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Tinea unguis (Ringworm):This is ringworm of the nail and is characterised by nail thickening, deformity andeventually results in nail plate loss.Onychorrhexis:These are brittle nails which often split vertically, peel and/or have vertical ridges.Household cleaning products and some solvents can cause this to the nails.Leuconychia:This condition is evident as white lines or spots in the nail plate and maybe causedby tiny bubbles of air that are trapped in the nail plate layers due to trauma. Notreatment is needed as the white spots will grow out of the nail plate. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Beau’s lines:These are characterised by horizontal lines of darkened cells and linear depressions.This disorder maybe caused by trauma, illness or malnutrition or any majormetabolic condition, chemotherapy or other damaging event and is the result of anyinterruption in the protein formation of the nail plate. Medical advice is essential.Psoriasis:This is characterised by raw, scaly skin and is sometimes confused with eczema.When it attacks the nail plate it leaves it pitted, dry and will often crumble. The platemay separate from the nail bed and may also appear red, orange or brown, with redspots in the lunula. Do not attempt to do any treatments instead refer to medicaladvice. Other contra – indications: Cuts & Abrasions Severe bruising of the hand or forearm Allergy to products Inflammation, swelling or pus Severe skin conditions Scabies Infectious diseases – impetigo, warts Ringworm ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Skin disorders affecting the hands: Eczema – is usually caused by factors inside the body or by an inherited or acquired instability of the skin. Dermatitis – is inflammation of the skin, which results from factors outside of the body, an allergic dermatitis reaction usually shows up within 24 hours of contact with the offending substance. Rheumatism – is a general term for pain, with or without stiffness, which muscles and joints. Arthritis – is a general term for inflammation of a joint.Both these conditions should be treated by a doctor. The skin of the hands should beexcluded from the manicure. Basic nail shaping, cuticle work and buffering. Nail plateis not contra – indicated however, it will draw attention to the hands. It is notadvisable to carry out a manicure or gel polish treatment on a client that has eczemaor dermatitis. Great care should be taken when massaging the hands of a client witharthritis and rheumatism. Joints which are inflamed must not be over – stimulated. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Sterilisation and disinfection:It is very difficult to maintain sterile conditions, once sterilised, items which have beenexposed to the air are no longer sterile. Equipment and tools which have been sterilised andstored away correctly are safe to use on a client.There are different methods to sterilisation on equipment before applying them theequipment must be clean. Because this removes any organic material that may notnecessarily be seen, removes grease which may prevent penetration of chemicals intoequipment and also reduces the amount of infectious material on equipment.When sterilising equipment all tools and equipment should always be washed in warm soapywater and rinsed well before disinfecting and sterilising them. This ensures all of the debris isremoved which may act as a barrier to the sterilisation process. This also helps not tocontaminate the sterilisation process.The best way to sterilise your tools and equipment is to clean them and then soak inBarbicide no longer than an hour.The mixing ratio for barbicide is 2oz Barbicide Concentrate: 32oz of cold water.Once the soaking process has taken place then rinse well, dry and your tools and equipmentare ready to use.Hygiene precautions:A high standard of personal and treatment hygiene protects against the risk of infection andbuilds client confidence. The main sources of infection during any treatment could be,infected skin, dirty tools and equipment or contaminated products.Personal hygiene is to wash your thoroughly throughout any treatment and ensure uniform issmart and presentable.Treatment hygiene: • Do not apply products over infected, broken skin on the scalp. • Only use clean tools and equipment. • Maintain a clean working area. • Remove products from pots and jars with a clean spatula, NOT with your fingers. • Replace lids and caps on products. • Dispose of waste immediately in an appropriate container.Tools and equipment:It is important to prevent products from becoming contaminated. This is achieved bycleaning and disinfecting them after use and storing them hygienically in between treatments. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Client Consultation:Client consultation is very important to carry out client consultation to determine what theclient actually wants. Within a consultation normally you would fill out a record card, thisshould have all the information on it that you will need. Important factors that need to betaken into consideration, lifestyle and what occasion. Nail TipsNail tips are generally formed by injection mouldings and vary in colour inaccordance with the: Colour plastic used for moulding the tips The amount of heat exposed during the mouldingNatural nail shapes vary quite drastically in many ways, i.e. length, width, flat, curved.It is important that you familiarise yourself with the natural nail shape and length ionorder that you can establish which type of tip would fit and suit the client’s needs.You will find that you will probably need to stock two or three different types to caterfor the different shapes you will be confronted with.The basic thumb rule is that a nail tip with an extended base (well area) is generallybetter for natural nails that have no free edge at all. This gives a greater overallstability and extra reinforcement on the sides of the nail extension, which is good fora client that is hard on her hands. However, there is extra work for the technicianwhen using this type of nail tip. The base of the tips have to be blended so that thebase becomes transparent.The nail tips with a cut out section at the base (well less or pre blended) can be usedfor natural nail with slight free edge. When overlaying this type of nail tip, generallyreinforcement of the overlay product is required across the “stress area”.The most popular sizes are 1 – 10. Size 1 is the largest and size 10 is the smallest. Pre – tailoring the Nail tips:Pre – tailoring is customising the nail tip to fit the individual. You can just take themout of the box and place them straight on, but you will find they won’t last long.The “nail tip” is for shape only. It does not contribute to the strength of the nailextension. The overlaying product (acrylic, fibreglass or UV gel) gives the nailextension its strength and durability.You need to have at least 2/3 of the natural nail exposed after applying the tip. Soyou may need to reduce the “well area” of the nail tip. You can reduce this area with ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

a file, clippers or scissors. The average nail technician will use a file. Hold your file atthe very end and strike the file down at a 33 degree angle. Ensure the file is flushwith the well area. This method will need practice, you can use your scissors if youfind easier.Monomer & PolymerMonomer is the liquid used to pick up the powder on the brush to apply to the nail. Itschemical name is Ethyl Meth-acrylate. It has a strong smell due to the vapours itgives off during evaporation. Care must be taken avoid overexposure for yourselfand your clients.Monomers can hook together into extremely long chains, each chain containingmillions of molecules. Very long chains of molecules are called polymers. Polymerscan be liquid, but they are generally solid. Chemical reactions that make polymersare called Polymerisations. Sometimes the term Cure or Curing is used, but it hasthe same meaning. A monomer is a molecule that make polymers.General Points:As with all treatments, there is terminology used that is sometimes a little difficult tounderstand until you are further into the learning process. To make this a little easierlisted below are some of the terminology, along with its meaning.Porosity:The natural nail plate is porous. It will absorb oils and moisture if the nail plate is notcleaned and dehydrated prior to application. In the same way some products appliedas overlays are porous, which is why they can be removed with suitable solvent. UVgel is the only product that is not porous, which is why removal is more difficult.Lifting:When pressure is applied to the natural nail plate, it will bend due to it being veryflexible. The nail overlay is much more sturdy and therefore when knocked, moreprone to either breaking off at the stress area, which is on the dividing line, or if theoverlay is excessively thick, the overlay being more difficult to break, will “lift” at thebase of the nail.Once the overlay has “lifted” from the base, it is important to advise your client toreturn to the salon for attention. The area should be clean and dry prior to glueapplication, any water or bacteria left under the overlay will cause major problems.Lifting may occur in various different circumstances for different reasons, they arelisted below: ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

The product has been applied too thickly. The product has been applied too near or even overlapping the cuticles. The product has been applied too thickly and too near the walls and sides of the nails. The natural nail plate has been over – buffed and left the nail plate too thin to hold the product. The client has left the maintenance or in-fills lapse for too long, leaving the artificial structure not balanced correctly. The nail extension is too long for the plate or body of the nail to support. The client has a systemic disturbance such as bad circulation, or creating a kind of a reject of products. The client is abusing the nail extension. Poor or incorrect preparation of the natural nail plate prior to application.Remember 1/3 of the nail overlapping as the free edge and 2/3 of the nail should beadhered to nail plate.Advantages of acrylic nails:The best thing about acrylic nails is that they look almost as real as the natural nail.They are flexible, thin and have a shiny appearance. They are safe too and evenpregnant woman can have them. Does not cause damage to the natural nail and canbe used be strengthen, protect and promote growth in the natural nail.Disadvantages of acrylic nails:One of the biggest problems is, as compared to other systems is the odour. Whereever acrylics are carried out they should be in a well ventilated area. Need in – fillsmore frequently, expensive to set up. Tip ApplicationBefore artificial nail structures can be applied the natural nail needs to be prepared, itneeds to be free from any excess non – living tissue and to be completely clean. Wash hands before treatments and get clients to wash theirs as well. Technician to spray hands with sterilising solution, then apply to the client and ask them to rub their hands together. Carry out a full consultation, the client should sign their record card to establish that they have understood their treatment recommendations and that they have given the correct information required to be able to receive a full treatment. Gently push back the cuticles with a hoof stick or cuticle pusher. If using metal tools these must be sterilised before using on a client. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

All non – living tissue must be removed from the nail plate in order for theproduct to be able to adhere to it properly. Some clients may require a fullmanicure a few days before the application of the artificial nail structures.Remove cuticles and hang nails with the cuticle nippers.File the free edge of the natural nail making sure that it fits into the wellarea of the nail tip. This ensures maximum adhesion of the tip and willprevent moisture or dirt becoming trapped between the layers.Gently remove the surface shine from the nail plate with a nail buffer,move it in the direction of the nail growth only. Buffing in the direction ofthe nail growth will prevent any damage occurring to the soft tissue in thecuticle area. The matrix is where the new cells are formed, it is the softestpart of the nail so gentle handling is very important.Temporarily drawing out moisture from the nail plate is extremelyimportant. It will give the product the opportunity to bond fully, it creates aseal ad ensures that no bacteria is trapped between the natural nail andartificial structure.Completely dehydrate the nail plate, paying particular attention to cuticles,free edge and side walls.Size the tips to the client’s natural nails, making a note of their sizes.Apply glue to the well area and press tip onto the natural nail ensuring thatthere are no air bubbles.Remove excess glue with a cotton bud.Cut tip to desired length with tip cutters.Shape free edge with 240 grit or higher.Hold back side walls and file to define shape.Blend in “stress” line with a 240 grit file or higher, file over entire tip. DONOT FILE THE NATURAL NAIL.Check for any sharp edges or inconsistencies before the applying theproduct. Application of AcrylicPerform steps to prepare the natural nail for nail application.Apply tips, shape and blend.Cleanse and dehydrate nails.Use primer sparingly, if required.Dip the clean brush into the liquid and pull up the side of the dappen dishensuring the amount of liquid is not excessive.Draw the very tip of the brush through the surface of the powder, drawinga fine line across the surface. The amount of line you draw will determinethe size of the bead you pick up. You need to decide the size of the bead ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

in relation to the surface area you are working on. You may need to alterthe amount of liquid in your brush to alter your bead size.Make sure all the powder is absorbed into the bead on the tip of the beforeplacing it on the nail. If there is excess powder left then it usually meansyour consistency is too dry.Push the bead down in the middle, keeping the brush at such an anglethat the highest point of the bead stays near the smile line. Press the beadto the left and at the same time nudge the edge of the acrylic.Take your brush to the left side again and finally push it into the corner,making sure the edge is crisp. Repeat this on the right side. Then bring thebrush over the nail at an angle to press the product into a smooth surface.By angling the brush downward it ensures a thin free edge whilst the bulkof the product stays in the apex.Ensure your brush is clean and free from powder otherwise the liquid willbecome cloudy.Repeat 5 – 7 steps with clear.Allow the acrylic to settle and dry before shaping and buffing.Apply a top coat or gel polish.Apply cuticle oil. RemovalRemove all traces of enamel and buff the enhancement surface with a 240grit file to prepare the product for removal.Saturate the cotton pad or lint free pad with acetone and place on thesurface of the enhancement.Seal the cotton pad by tightly encasing it in a square of tin foil.Apply each pad and foil seal individually to prevent evaporation of theremover.Soak like this for 20 – 30 minutes.Remove one wrap to see if the gel is coming away from the natural nailplate.If so then gently use a cuticle pusher to remove the excess left on the nailplate. From cuticle down to the free edge.After all product has been removed, buff the nail surface with the fine gritfile and white block to ensure all the product has been removed.Condition the skin and nails with a cuticle oil and massage it in.Complete record card and give after care leaflet. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

How to choose the Best Nail ShapeThere are 5 different types of nail shapes, these are called oval, squoval, square,round and almond/pointed. Each one depends on clients lifestyle and workcommitments.Oval:The tapered side walls of the oval create an elegant shape for women. Oval shapesflatter both wide and narrow nail beds and add length with a graceful tip.Square:With strong side walls and sharp or rounded tips, this is the classic French manicureshape. The square is ideal for a bigger nail bed (it tends to make smaller nail bedslook shorter and wider). To create this timeless shape, file the side walls straight andmake sure they’re perpendicular to the free edge of the nail. Once the perfect shapeis achieved, angle the file and bevel the nail.Square Oval (Squoval):Combining the elegance of the oval with the strength of the square. File the sidewalls straight and the round off the corners.Round:File the side walls like a square and then round off the free edge into the perfectswooping circle. The shape is perfect for shorter and wider nails.Almond/Pointed:This nail shape is popular with acrylic and nail designs. This shape lengthens yourfingers although it isn’t everyday look. File side walls evenly, taper until you havereached the desired tip. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Aftercare AdviceIt is important to give your clients the correct aftercare advice in order to maintainhealthy nails and skin. Do not pick or bite your nails Never cut nails – always use a file. Keep nails clean and at an appropriate length for your lifestyle Have regular treatments to maintain condition. NEVER leave more than 2-3 weeks between treatments. A non – acetone polish remover is to be used. Topcoat to ensure no chipping Always wear gloves when doing household chores, gardening etc. Use a hand lotion and cuticle oil daily. DO NOT use hands as tools. 5. Post-treatment checks.Check the client is happy with the results.Ask them to refer your services to family, friends, and colleagues.Explain the procedures they should follow, to get the most out of their extensionsSuch as:- Use cuticle oil twice daily. Gently massage into cuticles and let dry. Moisturize hands daily. Do not have nails too long for their lifestyle. Do not pick, bite, or attempt to remove the extension without seeking professional advice, for its safe removal. To keep their extensions and nails in good condition, they should attend regular appointments. Always wear household gloves for cleaning tasks and washing up. Do not use nails as tools. 6. Cleaning up and storage of product and equipment.All tools should be sterilised before being put away.Wash them in warm soapy water before being sterilised.Ensure all product lids are tightly closed, and stored in a cool dark place.Gel polish should never be exposed to UV light, or direct sunlight, as they will cure inthe bottle. Life expectancy of builder gel is 12 months, however, if stored correctlythey could last considerably longer. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Date code all products, to ensure you are not using expired products. This willreflect badly on your business.Use some nail cleanser to wipe around the top of the bottle. If you don’t, over timethe lid will stick, causing problems when opening. Furthermore, it looks moreprofessional when you show you look after your products. 7. Maintaining records of the client.Make sure you keep accurate records of treatments in a locked compartment. Youwill need to record full name, address, email address, phone number, Date of birth,medication, medical history, recent operations, previous contra– indication, as wellas contra-actions, particularly allergic reactions to products. Also, record any Doctorconsent forms received.You may also consider recording personal information about clients, such aswhether they are married, number of children, so that when they use your serviceagain, you have personal info about them, to help make the treatment more personal,and enjoyable.{The keeping of accurate records is important for both marketing and insurancepurposes. Furthermore, it impresses clients when you show them you keep accuraterecords of their treatments. This is an indication of a caring professional.From a marketing perspective, it means you can follow-up on further treatments. Itmeans your communication with clients will be highly personalised, as yourcommunication with them is based on their unique history and requirements. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Part 3 : Hygiene 1. General rulesBelow are some of the basic rules of hygiene which must be followed.: Hands should be washed thoroughly before and after each client treatment using an antibacterial cleanser. Fingernails should also be clean. Fingernails should be short and tidy. Must look presentable. Disposable gloves should be worn where possible. Long hair should be tied back. Jewellery, including wedding bands should be removed, as these can harbour bacteria. The therapist’s sleeves should be rolled up. Preferably, short sleeved garments should be worn. Use clean towels Use clean headbands Spatulas (not fingers) should be used for removing products from containers. Implements should be cleaned and sterilised (or disposed of) between clients.Working Hygienically:Cross infection (cross contamination) usually occurs via: Unclean hands Contaminated tools Sores and weeping scores Discharges from nose or mouth Shared use of items, brushes and cups Close contact with infected skin cells Contaminated blood or tissue cells.To minimise cross infection risks, you must: Ensure you can recognise signs of infection Avoid contact which could put you, your client or colleagues at risk Provide clean towels and couch paper for each client Wash hands regularly (at least before and after clients) with antibacterial cleanser Ensure that tools, equipment and surfaces are sterilised and sanitised. Wear disposable gloves, cover cuts and grazes with a waterproof dressing Dispose of all materials in a sealed bag, put sharp items in containers. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

2. Methods of sterilisationHere are some methods to sterilise tools and equipment.AutoclaveAutoclaves sterilise using steam pressure, higher than boiling point. The times andtemperatures vary from 15 minutes at 121 degree centigrade to 3 minutes at 134degrees. This is considered to be the most effective method of sterilisation. It is usedfor metal tools and some plastics.ChemicalChemical sterilisation uses chemicals, such as cidex, marvicide or formaldehyde. Itis suitable for metal and plastics. Items need to immersed for 20 minutes to beeffectively sterilised.Glass BeadSmall glass beads are heated to a high temperature (between 190 – 300 degrees C).Small metal tools can then be placed in between the glass beads. Thedisadvantages are that the tools can become damaged if they are left in for too long.Take care to protect fingers when removing items as they are very hot. 3. Methods of sanitisationUV Cabinet – this has disinfectant properties only and therefore does not sterilise.This is a safe environment for the storage of sterilised tools.Surgical Spirit – has disinfectant properties and is suitable for wiping over toolsprior to sterilisation. It is also effective for wiping down surfaces.Barbicide – a chemical that will kill bacteria, however not usually the spores. It isused for storing plastic spatulas during the treatment.Disinfectant Tablet – this tablet is placed in water and dissolves on contact. It isused for sponges as the liquid can penetrate the fibres of these tools. What’s the difference between sanitisation and sterilisation?Sanitisation is another word for disinfection. Disinfectants use antimicrobial agentsto destroy or inactivate microorganisms. Disinfectants may not kill all bacteria,viruses, fungi and spores. Disinfectants uses antimicrobial agents on objects,surfaces or living tissue to reduce the number of disease-causing organisms to non-threatening levels. Sterilisation uses chemicals, temperature, gas and/or pressure tokill or inactivate all disease-causing bacteria, spores, fungi and viruses. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

4. Blood SpillageIf any bleeding occurs, which happens sometimes; mostly accidentally. It is vital thatyou understand the correct procedure to follow: Antiseptic should be applied to cotton wool and pressed onto the skin. The used cotton wool should be disposed of by placing in a “Sharps” container, or yellow bin liner (medical / body waste bag.) If there is a large blood spill - put on gloves. Pour neat bleach onto the spillage. Leave for 1 minute, then wash away with lots of HOT water and detergent. 5. Disposal of WasteAll waste (rubbish) must be placed straight into a bin, which has a lid and contains abin liner. At the end of every day/session, this should then be sealed and disposed ofimmediately into the main bin liner. Any waste that has met body fluids should beplaced into a yellow bin liner (medical / body waste bag) if a large item, otherwiseinto yellow “Sharps” container. This will then be collected and incinerated (burnt) at asuitable site. 6 Surfaces and FloorsClean surfaces and floors daily with HOT water and detergent and then disinfect withsurgical spirit or similar product. In a training environment, the top of the trolleyshould be wiped over before every use. You must be in no doubt as to how easilygerms are spread, and the need to take precautions at every stage, to ensure theyare not. 7. Contagious ConditionsTo avoid cross contamination, you first line of defence is to recognise a conditionand avoid contact with it. There are four types of Contagious Conditions:VirusesTiny germs which can only survive in living cells. Common cold / flu Cold sores (Herpes simplex) Shingles Chicken pox Hepatitis AIDs Warts Verruca’sBacteriaTiny, single cell organisms, which multiply very quickly. They are capable of breedingoutside the body and can therefore be caught easily through contact withcontaminated articles. Impetigo (can be spread from one part of the body to another) ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Conjunctivitis (found in the eye membrane) Sty (small boil at the root of the eyelash) Whitlow (infection at the side of base of nail plate)FungusConsists of yeast’s and moulds. They feed off the waste products of the skin theyinvade. Ringworm (tinea corpus – a red spot which spreads outwards then heals from the centre, forming a ring). Athletes foot (tinea pedis – a type of ringworm usually resulting in spongy tissue or itching and cracking between the toes. On soles and heels skin becomes bright red and covered with white scales). Ringworm of the nail (tinea unguium or onychomycosis – whitish patches which can be scraped off, can invade the free edge and spread to the nail root which causes the nail to become spongy and sometimes detached).InfestationInvasion by small animal parasites living off human blood. Scabies (mite burrows through the skin, lays eggs, itchy rash with swelling, tell – tale track of burrows shows up as little greyish ridges on the skin. Usually found on fingers, palms and soles. Head lice (pediculosis captis – tiny insects lay their eggs or “nits” which are attached to the hair, itching can cause blisters). ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Part 4: Statutory Regulations & RequirementsIn running a business or providing a service, these are the important regulations andrequirements which govern you. 1. Health & Safety At Work Act 1974This requires all employers to provide systems of work that are, so far as reasonablypractical, safe and without risks to health. The employees have a responsibility totake reasonable care of themselves and other people affected by their work and toco – operative with the employer in the discharge of this legal obligation.The act provides powers for the Health and Safety Commission and the Health andSafety Executive. The act allows various regulations to be made which control theworkplace. The provisions, as well as persons who work alone, away from anemployer’s premises, also cover self – employed persons.The Health and Safety at Work Act, instils the principle that if a hazard affectinghealth and safety occurs in the workplace, then it is not entirely the responsibility ofthe employer to take remedial action, or to be responsible for any claim made as aresult of subsequent damage when remedial action was ineffective.Example: as an employee, if you see clients tripping over a hole in the carpet inreception, you have an immediate duty to report this to management and to takesome emergency remedial action, like covering the hole with adhesive tape orplacing a piece of furniture over it, until an appropriate repair can be undertaken.In awarding damages under this legislation, judges started to use the systems ofproportionality to decide in how far the employee and the employer were to blame.This means that proper records must be kept of any hazards and remedial actiontaken, employees need to keep copies of reports to management, and things like‘Accidents at Work’ books have become more important.Within this act there are a number of regulations having legal force, which have beenimposed through the UK Government and the European Community legislator’srequirements.The act requires employers to undertake ‘Risk assessments‘ to identify and managethe workplace and take account of identified problems. Employees also haveresponsibilities and this can affect their liability in cases of personal damage. 2. The Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations 1992This act covers things such as toilet facilities, minimum working temperature,adequate lighting, adequate ventilation, appropriate floor covering, drinking water ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

and staff area. In the staff area / rest room there should be adequate facilities toprotect non – smokers and arrangements for pregnant women or nursing mothers. 3. Control Of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) 2002This law requires employers to control exposure to hazardous substances in theworkplace. Most products used in the salon are perfectly safe, however some of theproducts could become hazardous under certain conditions or if used incorrectly.Every salon, spa and individual therapist should know how to use and store theseproducts correctly complying the COSHH act.It is the employer’s responsibility to assess the risk of hazardous substances anddecide on any action required to reduce those risks. Employees should beadequately trained to allow them to follow the safety guidelines and take precautionshighlighted by the risk assessment.In order to comply with COSHH the employer should follow the procedures outlinedbelow: Assess the risks of each substance. Decide what precautions are needed i.e. wearing gloves when handling a substance. Preventing or controlling exposure to certain substances. Ensuring that control measures are used and maintained. Monitoring exposure. Ensuring employees are properly informed, trained and supervised.Detailed instructions must be kept regarding any products considered hazardous.As a therapist you should know how to: Store the products/substances in the correct place. Follow any precautions needed when using the substance. Use the substance correctly. Dispose of the substance correctly. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

4. Electricity at Work Regulations 1989The electricity at work regulations is concerned with safety generally in the use ofelectricity. Part of this is the operation and maintenance of electrical equipment in thesalon. It is recommended that equipment should be tested regularly to ensure that allflexes and fuses are functioning properly – at least every six months. This does notnecessarily need to be an electrician for this level of checking. All results and actionsshould be recorded to provide a record of recommendations and actions in case of aclaim at a later stage and in the case of defects, that the equipment is checked andrepaired by a competent person.Most salons and clinics have their equipment tested on an annual basis and acertificate is awarded. This is known as PAT testing – Portable Appliance Testing. 5. Trade descriptions Act 1968 (AMENDED 1987)The act prohibits the use of false trade description. It is important to understand itsprovision and especially where the description is given by another person andrepeated. This means that to repeat a manufacturer’s false claim is to be equallyliable. 6. Sale of Goods Act(1979) and Sale and supply of Goods Act (1994)This is associated with the supply of goods and services act 1982, the unfair contractterms act 1977 and the supply of goods (implied terms) Act 1973. These acts coverthe consumer rights including goods being of satisfactory quality, the conditionsunder which goods maybe returned after purchase, an whether the goods are fit fortheir intended purpose. 7. Cosmetic Products (safety) Regulations 1996These regulations are made under the consumer protection Act 1987 and implementEEC regulations regarding the labelling, composition, marketing anf description ofcosmetic products. 8. Employers liability (compulsory insurance) Act 1969This act places a duty on the employers to take out and maintain approvedinsurance policies with authorised insurance against bodily injury or diseasessustained by their employees in the course of their employment. Insurers must issuea certificate of insurance to employers who are required to display the certificate or a ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

copy, at each place of business for the information of the employees. Localauthorities are specifically excluded from the Act. 9. Treatment Liability InsuranceAttention is drawn to the risks which are insurable under a treatment liability policy.To provide treatments or to advise without such insurance cover may result in thetherapist, whether employed or not, suffering heavy financial penalties. Employeeswho do not have their own insurance must ensure that they are covered by theiremployer’s policy. 10. Data Protection Act 1984If computer is used to record client data (information) then the establishment must beregistered under this act. The Act then operates to ensure that the information is onlyused for the purposes that it was given. This means that no information may begiven to an outsider without client’s permission.All information held on the computer about an individual must be revealed to thatperson on request within 40days of an application and at a fee not exceeding £10.00.Clients can seek compensation through the courts for any infringement of their rightsas a result of an institution sharing that information when the client gave it for only aspecific purpose. 11. Codes of PracticeThese codes are concerned with many personal treatment areas. Codes like this arespecific in their focus (i.e. hygiene) and broad in their application, allied occupationalareas. Other codes – formal and informal – maybe concerned with ethical orbusiness practices, or other aspects of client relationships.All those codes that apply should be understood that are involved in specifying goodpractice and may be considered in any legal action against an establishment. Codesare not mandatory but set the standard in an industry and are often adopted asmandatory on members by professional representative bodies. 12. Codes of EthicsThe essence of a profession is that it is vitally interested in the well-being of themembers of the public whom it provides services and that is imposes on its membersvarious obligation to ensure that the public are protected from improper practice. Asa result, all professions have a code of ethics covering rules of conduct and thosewho break the code incur a penalty or expulsion. In the case of the society, instituteand FFS, any proven breach of this code is subject to a warning. If it is disregarded, ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

conviction of the breach can mean that, the member can be suspended or expelled.In serious cases, suspension without warning is immediate.New members have to sign a document that they will abide by the code of ethics inits current form and with any additions and amendments which may occur during themembership term. This ensures that everyone is made aware of what is involved bybecoming a member of a professional body.The subsidiary Ethical Rules are specific to: Cutting of the skin Skin peeling Ultra violet radiation Hair removal on the body Moles, warts and capillaries Varicose veins Ozone Ultra sonic devices Treatments of member of the opposite sex Hygiene 13. First Aid at WorkThe Health and Safety (First Aid) Regulations 1981Employers have a legal duty to make arrangements to ensure their employeesreceive immediate attention if they are injured or taken ill at work. It doesn’t matterwhether the injury or illness is caused by the work they do. What is important is thatthey receive immediate attention and that an ambulance is called in serious cases.First aid at work (FAW) covers the arrangements that need to be made to manageinjuries or illness suffered at work. If an employer decides a first aider is not requiredin the workplace, a person should be appointed to take charge of the first aidarrangements. The role of this appointed person includes looking after the first aidequipment, emergency cover where a first aider is absent due to unforeseencircumstances.These regulations do not require employers to provide first aid for anyone other thantheir own employees. However, many organisations such as schools, places ofentertainment, fairgrounds and shops provide a service for others and it is stronglyrecommended that employers include non – employees in their assessment of firstaid needs and make provision for them.Before taking up first aid duties, a first aider should have undertaken training andhave a qualification that HSE approves. This means that they must hold a validcertificate of competence in either: First aid at Work (FAW) issued by a training organisation approved by HSE. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015

Or Emergency First aid at Work (EFAW) issued by a training organisation approved by HSE or a recognised awarding body.Although not mandatory, this will help qualified first aiders maintain their basic skillsand keep up to date with any changes to first aid procedures. A self – employedperson shall provide, or ensure there is provided, such equipment, if any, as isadequate and appropriate in the circumstances to enable her/him to render first aidto herself/himself while she/he is at work. ©Sunshine Hair And Beauty 2015