Thai food

Mee krob - sweet and sour rice noodles. Photo courtesy of Bussaracum. Royal Thai cuisine is commonly thought of as the apex of Thai food, considered one of the most popular foods in the world. Said to have been created during the days of the ancient Ayutthaya court, Royal Thai cuisine survived many a political upheaval to serve as a powerful weapon for diplomacy. Thai Kings, who frequently entertained foreign visitors, kept vast palace kitchens manned by massive brigades — some led by chefs from countries far afield — who ended up crafting dishes that still adorn Thai restaurant tables today. Such dishes include sangkaya fak tong (steamed pumpkin stuffed with coconut custard), mieng kum (wild betel leaf-wrapped appetiser) and gaeng ranjuan (beef soup with fermented shrimp paste).

Ruen Mallika's Miang Kana. Photo courtesy of Ruen Mallika. Constant contact with the outside world and the continuous exchange of ideas often led to culinary innovation. During the Ayutthaya court period, Maria Guyomar de Pina, a woman of Japanese-Portuguese-Bengali heritage, served in the royal palace as a cook after being taken prisoner by King Petracha. Later renamed “Thao Tong Kip Ma”, she became head chef of his kitchen and is ultimately credited with introducing Portuguese-inflected dishes such as sangkaya (coconut custard) and tong yip, foy tong and tong yod (egg yolk-based sweets) to the world.

Sang Wa Koong Pla Dook Fu - fried catfish. Photo courtesy of Blue Elephant. KEEPING UP APPEARANCES Indeed, a history of innovation, rounded flavours and ease in dining aren’t the only characteristics that set Royal Thai cuisine apart from the riff-raff. Appearances, and the time-consuming labour required to keep them up, also make a difference. “Royal Thai cuisine is a cuisine for the eyes, nose and mouth,” said Mongkol Vongsawan, General Manager of longstanding restaurant Bussaracum Royal Thai cuisine. Such is the emphasis placed on appearance that ingredients are rejected if their looks are considered sub-par. “Even the baby Thai eggplant (makuea pom) used in one curry have to all be the same size,” he said. To that end, customary flourishes to dishes include the use of natural blossoms and herbs to infuse the water used in cooking dumplings, rice or desserts for added colour, said Mongkol. For a purple colour, cooks employ butterfly pea blossom (dok anchan) ; for yellow, they use pumpkin (fak tong). Pandan leaf (bai toey) begets a deep green hue, while rose or hibiscus results in a brilliant pink.

The beautifully-crafted Chor Muang. Photo courtesy of Bussaracum. In McDang’s eyes, the only truly Royal Thai dish is khao chae, roughly translated to “soaked rice”. Otherwise known as “summertime rice”, it is a cold rice porridge dish adapted from the Mon people and prepared during the hot season in March-April. Introduced during the reign of King Rama II, the dish was traditionally served with cool jasmine-scented water (at a time before ice was available) and a special candle, burned to emphasise the flavours of the food. Still prized by Thais today, khao chae can be found on any menu from the most highfalutin hotel outlet to the humble street food market. Side dishes such as the gently battered pork-stuffed banana peppers are painstakingly deep-fried; rice grains are polished in several changes of water to avoid clouding the porridge; fresh fruits and herbs meant to freshen the breath are peeled and intricately carved. Such was the importance of this dish that the poet Soonthorn Pu crafted a poem lauding “Krueng Kao Wan” to be sung during the King’s procession on the Royal Barge.

Ruen Mallika's Khao Chae Chao Wang - a popular summer dish. Photo courtesy of Ruen Mallika. Even the manner in which the food is eaten is considered, with many dishes presented as small bites, said Blue Elephant’s Sandra. “Detail to presentation is very important. This is most easily glimpsed in “starters [that] are very small, enabling you to eat in an elegant way.” Despite all the work involved in preparing it, Royal Thai cuisine remains an integral part of Thailand’s culture and history. Bussaracum’s Mongkol believes it is important to preserve the tradition in any way possible. “We have stood by Royal Thai cuisine for more than 30 years since opening in 1982,” he said. “That will never change.”

Som tum, or spicy green papaya salad, comes from Thailand’s north-eastern state of Isaan. Garlic, chillies, green beans, cherry tomatoes, and shredded raw papaya are pounded using a pestle and mortar, which release a sweet-sour-spicy flavour that's quite distinctive. Regional variations include peanuts, dry shrimp or salted crab into the mix. This dish can be polarizing, as some can't get enough of its taste, while others simply can't handle the spice. 

Red curry Gaeng daeng Gaeng daeng is an aromatic red curry containing meat, red curry paste and smooth coconut milk, along with a sprinkling of sliced kaffir lime leaves on top. Despite its striking colour, gaeng daeng is quite mild though you can request for fresh chilli if you’re in the mood for spicy foods. Vegetarians or vegans can still enjoy this curry by asking the chef to replace the meat with tofu.

Stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts Kai pad med ma muang is basically stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts. This dish also contains soy sauce, honey, onions, chillies, and pepper, as well as a variety of vegetables (usually chopped bell peppers or carrots). There's dried chilli mixed in together with the chicken and cashew nuts, but it's hardly spicy. This dish is suitable for children or those who can't handle spicy foods.

Mango and sticky rice Khao niew mamuang What do you get when you add slow-cooked coconut sticky rice, and decadent coconut cream to some of the world’s most delicious mangoes? The answer: a treat worth writing home about – khao niew mamuang. This popular dessert can indeed be found in Thai restaurants all over the world, but it always seems to taste better in Thailand. One reason is the quality of mangoes – there’s just nothing like the sweet, golden and amazingly cheap mangoes produced within the Land of Smiles. If you're seeking something more adventurous, look for coconut sticky rice with slices of notoriously pungent fresh durian in place of the mango.  Where to try it: Quality coconut sticky rice with mango is widely available throughout the city, including from several vendors on Khao San Road. The durian version can be more of a challenge to locate, but you might find it in Pak Khlong Talad flower market, in the fresh fruit section along the sidewalk towards the north of the market.

Coconut ice cream I-tim ma phrao Although the western-style ice cream was first introduced to the Land of Smiles by foreigners, Thailand has adapted it to create its own unique versions. Some of Thailand’s icy treats, like nam kang sai and tup tim kab, are more reminiscent of shaved ice. Both consist of plain, pounded ice with some combination of sweet- flavoured syrups, coconut milk, sweet gelatin, or fresh fruit added on top. These are tasty indeed, but the best frozen Thai treat is i-tim mat phrao. Made with coconut milk rather than cow’s milk, Thai ice cream is both sweet and refreshing, and locals often take it with kernels of boiled corn or gingko biloba sprinkled on top. A more literal depiction of the “ice cream sandwich”, many Thais also enjoy i- dtim mat phrao wedged between a folded piece of white bread.