PFC - Sustainable Pakistan Issue - December 2020

Khawar constantly improving ourselves and learning new things. We have very regular trainings of var- Mehmood ious different things in order to build capacities of the workers and to keep them motivated. That Manager Merchandising, not only enhances the productivity of the work- Intermarket er but also improves the employees’ social lives. Our top management is very cooperative and al- How long have you been working at Intermar- ways works towards finding new solutions. ket for? 3 years How has your experience of working with Sus- tainable Pakistan been? Briefly tell me about Evo Yarn socks please. The experience has been really good. The train- We made environment friendly socks. We named ings have been very helpful, especially during the project ‘Green socks’. The purpose was to the pandemic as they managed to keep everyone make a sustainable product for the market. All engaged and motivated. In that state of confu- components that were used were environment sion and panic, this was a constant that people friendly. All the inputs had certified sources. Sec- could rely on and see that work could still contin- ondly, we made sure that their performance and ue irrespective of the global crisis. quality were not compromised either. They were mainly sports socks. What feedback would you give Sustainable Pa- kistan? How did the Sustainable Pakistan and Inter- Why are you ending the project? You should con- market partnership come about? tinue especially since there is such a positive re- We had been wanting to come up with something sponse from the local industry. like this and we luckily got the chance through CSI. Could you tell me more about Intermarket’s vision? We believe either ‘Innovative or Evaporate’. We are constantly working towards innovation and 94

The Sock Makers Text by Sven Liebenow, CEO of Die Sockenmacher/Die Strumpfmacher SOCKS – an everyday item of clothing that has would be darned or repaired. Today, they are the potential to be so much more. bought by the millions and generally disposed of rather quickly after they have been worn and We all wear them every day  – in our leisure washed a couple of times. This is at the expense time, at work, at the gym and even in bed. of the environment and uses up the valuable and limited resources of our planet. And for some, they can even attain fetish status! They come in all shapes, colours and patterns; So the obvious answer is to produce every- they can be soft and elastic or smooth and busi- day items of wear from recycled materials, an ness-like; they can keep feet cosy and warm or approach that helps to relieve the stresses and cool and comfortable. Socks have been around strains on our environment. for centuries, and they are constantly being tak- en to the next level – by people like us. Sustainability is not something for the future; Some socks even come with special features. it is a matter of concern to us today, the issue of They are companions for life – from childhood to the moment. the rocking chair. Once upon a time, socks were knitted by grandma and, when worn out, they The members of the DIE  SOCKENMACHER team have been drawn from the most diverse 95 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

branches of the textile industry. A few years ago, other discarded consumer goods to produce we came together as a small band of hosiery and yarns which, to a large extent, can be used to sock enthusiasts who shared a commitment to fashion socks. sustainability. Everyone in the team  – young or old, slim or chubb y, with disability or without – We at DIE SOCKENMACHER have taken up is free to develop their knowledge and creativity. the great challenge and made it our goal to re- duce the environmental impact, and we have Few people know that there are only a limited expended a lot of thought on sustainable sock number of textiles that are as complicated to pro- production and the many different approaches duce as socks. It is a science in itself, and it re- to the challenge. quires a great deal of expertise and skill to match fine yarns with the ultra-fine knitting needles in As a brand, we consider sustainability to be futuristic-looking sock knitting machines. both a job of work and a responsibility. Of course, that also requires the consumer to make a con- Reinventing the wheel would be pointless  – scious choice in favour of products that are man- and the same goes for socks. We can, however, ufactured with sustainability in mind. In particu- use new ideas, developments, and technologies lar when it comes to products that are part of our from all over the world to make a “sock life” more everyday life and that are produced in vast quan- meaningful, more sustainable, and more envi- tities. ronmentally friendly. When it comes to thoughtful and deliberate Huge progress has been made in the produc- shopping, the choice is yours. tion of socks in recent years. Brilliant minds have worked out ways to process plastic waste and The future begins now! 96

Step Up Ingmar Lehmann Could you please introduce yourself briefly? conduct. Now, if you’ve heard of amfori before, My name is Ingmar Lehmann, I’m a certified you know that it’s a textile industry initiative that business economist, and I’ve been working as a does good work, but what you may not know is manager in the textile industry for over 25 years that we added our own “Supplier Declaration on now – 25 of them at OTTO. Sustainability” on top because of how important As the head of category management at Pur- human rights and strict social standards are to us. chasing, I’m responsible for several product So it was only natural for us to also go a step fur- groups and buy them both domestically and ther in terms of sustainability, and implement- abroad. ing this key issue in everything that OTTO does is As for the most important part of my job, I’d say also very much in line with our current zeitgeist. that developing textile products and collections But even if you were to ignore all that, you’d have for various licensed and in-house brands that to remember that sustainability in and of itself is we then sell on platforms and other distribution essential for our world to continue existing. channels is definitely up there. How does a huge platform like OTTO tackle a As one of the biggest e-commerce business- complex issue like sustainability? es in the world, OTTO has really shown enor- mous commitment to the issue of sustainabil- From my point of view, OTTO has successfully ity. What exactly was it that drove you to push and systematically done this in two ways: One, this topic the way you have? through years and years of making sure we were acting responsibly in the procurement markets Well, even though we’re one of the biggest in which we’re active. Two, through continuous e-commerce businesses in the world, I think it’s changes in behavior and philosophy that are important to remember that we’re a family busi- lived top-down and that we keep refining itera- ness with a long history that stretches all the way tively. At the very beginning, the company took back to 1949. And the reason I mention this is its minimum standards and raised the bar with that sustainability – and I really mean every facet them so that all textiles had to meet Oeko-Tex 100 of it – has always been tremendously important requirements. And at the same time, we audited to us and an integral part of our company val- all our suppliers to make sure that they met all ues. In fact, Prof. Michael Otto started the “Cot- social accountability standards. In addition, we ton made in Africa” initiative all the way back in established standard SA 8000 for our nightwear 2005, when sustainability wasn’t even a house- and swimwear purchasing operations and got hold name. our suppliers to adopt it. Finally, over the past few decades, Prof. Michael Otto has founded Basically put, we believe that, as a company, multiple trusts that are involved in environmen- we have a responsibility to the society in which tal protection issues. we live and to our business partners. This is why OTTO introduced its first code of conduct in 1996 As time has gone by, textile purchasing oper- and would later replace it with amfori’s code of ations have become increasingly committed 97 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

along the lines of Prof. Otto’s “Cotton made in Af- of use, and disposal – you can make changes in rica” sustainability initiative and have been using the different specifications for each of these stag- more sustainable cotton, such as GOTS-certified es. From selecting the best possible material, to cotton, for clothing. the dyeing, to whether a product is biologically degradable. In other words, there really are a lot What challenges have you encountered in of possible approaches when making products the process of establishing sustainable supply more sustainable. Now, having said all that, it chains and products? goes without saying that we also have a sustain- ability department that coordinates this area for One definite challenge is that every single the OTTO Group. To put it simply, sustainability product and every single category goes through for a company as large as ours is a never-ending a specific development process and is based on process, since we can always make things a bit its own supply chain. This means that each de- better. partment is uniquely responsible, and this is the natural result of each department really know- Another thing that is important to mention is ing their products best and being able to iden- that we attach enormous importance to long- tify opportunities for greater sustainability. Take term partnerships with our suppliers, which is wooden bed frames, for instance. These need an ultimately beneficial for everyone. However, it FSC® certificate, while a cotton shirt, for example, also means that processes take more time. For needs to be made of sustainable cotton. And then example, there are certain sustainability cer- you get fashion articles, where production is par- tificates that you can’t just get overnight, or we ticularly complex because of the multiple pro- might be working for an extended period of time duction steps where you can adjust details here on a new, more sustainable type of fabric. Re- and there to make an item more sustainable. The gardless, we think that it’s worth it, as it allows product’s design, material, production, length us to rely on our suppliers and our suppliers to 98

rely on us. And a partner that you can depend on simply, we focus on quality rather than quanti- and that you know will follow all proper practic- ty. Clothes are not a throw-away product for us. es at its production facilities is absolutely crucial We’ve even created our “Platz schaffen mit Herz” when it comes to sustainability in the fashion in- recycling system to collect, resell, and recycle dustry and its complex supply chains. What this used clothes, with all the proceeds going to char- also means is that the product itself is ultimate- ities and other organizations that our company ly the biggest challenge. The fashion industry supports. sometimes has the most complex supply chains out there, and there’s always something you can Now, the market for sustainable products con- do better. But that’s exactly what motivates us – tinues to be relatively small, which is why sus- in addition, of course, to making a high-quality tainable products are often more expensive to product that our customers like. In fact, sustaina- buy at Purchasing and accordingly more difficult bility is not only about sustainable materials, but to sell to our customers, who are used to lower also about making quality products that custom- prices as a result of fast fashion. But we’re con- ers really like and can wear for a long time. If you fident that the changes in our society will come instead dump a new lower-quality collection on not only with a growing awareness of the impor- the market every month, all that will happen is tance of sustainability, but also with the willing- that this will waste resources, the products will ness to pay more for a good quality product that be thrown away quickly, and the piles of garbage is sustainable. Basically put, the value of clothing will get even bigger. This is why we first test our is something we need to become aware of once collections to find out what customers like in- more, and this will require moving away from stead of just making something and flooding the fast fashion industry, in which clothing is a the market with it, and also why we keep to the disposable thing. We all need to understand just spring/summer and fall/winter rhythm. To put it how much work and how many resources go into a single piece of clothing. 99 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

Step Up How did the partnership with Die Strumpf- important for us to also look for new alternative macher / Die Sockenmacher and Intermarket markets and suppliers. It’s my opinion that an- come to be? other important part of sustainability is to help developing countries build up their own sus- A big part of the range of textile products is made tainable production operations, and that this is up of cotton, so there really are a lot of options for particularly important given the fact that the tex- switching these products over to sustainable ma- tile industry is a key industry when it comes to terials at Purchasing. As you may have intuited, a country’s economic development. And as I’ve however, things are a bit more complicated when already mentioned, customers are becoming it comes to sheer stockings. There’s regenerated more concerned with sustainability and giving it polyamide on the market, but getting low denier more importance, meaning that customers will pantyhose and stockings that would be suitable remember a product’s sustainability long after for our customers didn’t prove to be very easy forgetting its price. for us alone. We hope that this partnership with “Die  Strumpfmacher” and their know-how will Which milestones would you like to reach enable us to present our customers with a truly next in terms of sustainability and innovation? extraordinary collection of pantyhose and sheer stockings at otto.de. In addition, “Die Strumpf- Well, as an employee, I’d rather not get ahead macher” have an invaluable connection to a sock of OTTO’s business strategy, so I can only answer manufacturer called Intermarket with facilities this question from the very specific perspective in Pakistan that are already making products for of our department. Much earlier on, I mentioned various well-known brands and additionally can how the company has an iterative approach. manufacture a wide range of compelling prod- Needless to say, this is a basic concept that we’re ucts in conformity with our minimum standards. implementing as well. Our goal will be to define additional targets in regard to sustainability and What kind of results would you like to see to achieve them step by step. I’m thinking of how from the partnership with Intermarket? textiles are shipped here as an example: Our li- censed and in-house goods are increasingly Well, we hope to win over a manufacturer reaching us by sea, rail, or road, rather than as that can make sustainable products at compel- air cargo. And mass customization trends would ling purchase prices. Since we have a variety of make it possible to have production operations licensed brands in our own portfolio, it would in Germany so that well-known, upscale stock- make sense to also have our own products be ing and sock brand manufacturers would be able made in Pakistan. Now, what you may not know to continue making their products here. And we is that the supplier concentration in the night- also want to improve our transit packaging: For wear and stockings segment is growing and that instance, the company is involved in the Prax- China continues to be a big and extremely de- Pack research project, which tests RePack reus- pendable partner for us. Nonetheless, when we able packaging. look at it from a sustainability perspective, it’s 100

101 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

A NEW CONCEPTION OF DESIGN Essay by Lutz Dietzold, CEO German Design Council 102

A New Conception of Design Lutz Dietzold has been managing director of the ever before. That is why I am calling for a new, German Design Council since 2002. He has exten- down-to-earth empathy. sive experience in the areas of design communi- cation and strategy and has been member of the Creating with ecological awareness advisory council and management of numerous One thing is clear: no matter what we do, we al- foundations and associations. Mr. Dietzold pub- ways leave an ecological footprint. At the centre lishes articles on a regular basis and gives nation- of our work is the indisputable fact that every al and international lectures relating to design. product we create has an impact on our environ- He is also a member of numerous juries as well as ment. That is why all future designs must focus of the project advisory board of the German Fed- on redefining their added value. eral Ecodesign Award. In our processes we must consider factors such It’s the year 2020, the writing is on the wall: as the consumption of materials and energy and the continuing rise in CO2 emissions world- emissions resulting from manufacture, as well wide is leading to global warming, which as ease of repair, recyclability and incentives for threatens our climate and the very founda- consumers to keep using a product over a long tion of our existence. Droughts and forest fires, period of time. It may seem paradoxical, but tak- heavy rainfall and floods, melting ice caps and ing these factors into consideration may inspire rising sea levels threaten the earth’s ecosystem designers with a new conception of their own and biodiversity. role which in fact prompts them to design less – i.e. not to create something new every year. Despite these devastating events being tele- vised daily on the news, much of our (Western) In order to address our present-day crises, the consumer society can only be described as being design industry should be primarily committed oddly reticent and indifferent to these troubling to ethical, social and ecological principles. I am trends. It’s almost as if they believe these cata- specifically referring to the critical consideration clysmic events to be too big or too distant to im- of factors such as: product benefits, social sus- pact on their everyday lives. tainability, life cycle, production, distribution, consumption and disposal. A younger generation who are committed to saving the planet have brought a new awareness By the same token, this does not have to be at of the ecological consequences of our actions the cost of the aesthetics. I firmly believe that it into mainstream society – and in the process, is precisely the consistent application of these they have clearly distinguished the portents in principles that will lead to new, perhaps unex- the field of design: user-friendliness, use of ap- pected, but coherent solutions with excellent propriate materials and minimising environ- visual and tactile qualities. mental impact – all these factors are of equal im- portance in the design process. In order to address our present-day crises, the design industry should be primarily committed to What we need is a fresh viewpoint that openly ethical, social and ecological principles. examines the realities of our time. Today, design- ers carry more responsibility for our society than The effects of digitalisation Does digitalisation play a key role in these devel- 103 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

opments? It is a given now that countless every- less, thought-provoking designs must actively in- day processes, and many aspects of architecture fluence the cultural field of power. In my opinion and design, rely on digital technology. the 2012 Werner Aisslinger project, Chair Farm, is a great example of this. Carlo Ratti recently made the following insight- ful statement at the ICONIC AWARDS: Innova- It involved growing a sturdy chair made from tive Architecture: “All the technologies that have plant matter inside a steel frame under precisely changed our lives in the past 20 to 30 years are defined laboratory conditions – a usable object now making their way into the physical realm. that at the same time leaves a positive carbon The Internet is becoming the Internet of Things footprint. Admittedly Chair Farm cannot be re- and bringing huge amounts of data to urban liv- produced on a mass scale, but it serves as an im- ing environments.” portant example of design experiment. He made it clear that the increasingly precise Change does not just come from the visualis- analysis of data should not just be used to boost ation of utopian scenarios in a perfect world, but further growth and increase sales. He also asked from the strategic use of existing structures in our us to reflect on how these insights could change imperfect world. our cities and buildings and improve our lives. And I am not being cynical when I propose However, I remain sceptical as to whether we that economics must also assume a leading role should rely solely on the promises of digitalisa- in the new self-conception of design. It would tion. We should consider a sophisticated strategy in fact be naive to view the economy simply as with different approaches. One such strategy is being in opposition to a carbon-neutral, socially material innovation. For example, take Maurizio just society; for change does not just come from Montalti, who is a pioneer in the research and the visualisation of utopian scenarios in a per- development of a wide range of mycelium-based fect world, but from the strategic use of existing technologies for the production of biomaterials structures in our imperfect world. and products. He believes in using natural or- ganisms to create contemporary designs. His de- I would also like to affirm that clear, reliable signs are now market-ready and used in various guidelines do not impede economic develop- products – alternatives to plastics are becoming ments. In fact, they are of great benefit to com- more plausible in many areas of life. panies seeking to determine their strategic di- rection. This is precisely why designers currently New demands made on objects play such a central role. They form the bridge be- When I talk about social demands, I am refer- tween the social, ethical and ecological as well as ring to an object being delivering instant, direct aesthetic and economic arguments. It is up to the benefits, and therefore providing value and iden- designers of today to save the world. tity. An object that has the ability to emotional- ly move the user. As Dieter Rams so eloquently Article originally published on 26/02/2020: states in his 10 commandments on good design, https://ndion.de/en/a-new-conception-of-de- “It does not attempt to manipulate the consumer sign/ with promises that cannot be kept.” Neverthe- 104

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A New Conception of Design 107 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

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A New Conception of Design Attracting the Spotlight How to build a global brand in 2021 Manufacturers all around the world this increasingly competitive stage, we cooper- have high ambitions. They want ate with the German Design Council, one of the their name to be known. They want world’s leading centres of expertise in commu- the world to know about the great nication and knowledge transfer within design, and innovative products they can offer. And of branding and innovation. The German Design course, they want to earn some spotlight to attract Council has been operating since 1953 as part more and larger customers. However, the compe- of the worldwide design community and has al- tition for spotlight in this world is tough. So how ways contributed to the establishment of global can a company compete in 2021? exchange and networking thanks to its inter- national offering, promotion of new talent and On the international stage, there are different memberships. With events, conventions, awards, expectations for brands than locally. Whether jury meetings and expert committees, the Coun- you agree with them or not, it is important to un- cil connects its members and numerous other derstand these expectations and use that knowl- international design and branding experts, fos- edge to your advantage. Every brand is different. ters discourse and provides important stimula- What unites all successful brands, however, is a tion for the global economy. convincing commitment to sustainability. And we are not talking about green washing – we The cooperation combines competence in sus- are talking about honest commitment to safe tainability management with expertise in glob- practices, fair working conditions and efforts al branding. With sustainability services and to preserve our planet’s resources. Consumers, branding consulting all in one unbeatable pack- governments, and banks are all increasing the age, companies will be able to elevate their brand pressure on businesses for sustainable practices, to the international level. including in global supply chains, and this pres- sure will only intensify in the future. There is just If you would like to learn more, contact no way around it – sustainability has become the Bernd Müller, Director International of the license to operate. German Design Council at: [email protected] To help companies reach their aspirations on 111 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

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113 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

MODEUROP Trend Fashion Platform at DSI - Colours for Spring / Summer 2021 as predicted by ModEurop. 114

SENSITIVE IMPUL

LSIVE CONSTRUCTIVE 116

Trend Leading Leather Sustainable Pakistan has landed a huge suc- Footwear and Leather Goods Industry supports, cess that is paving the path for a prominent represents and protects the common interests of position of the project in the global shoe German footwear manufacturers in the areas of and leather industry. For the first time, the social and economic policy. It is a federation of six ModEurop Colour Card features leather samples regional shoe industry federations with altogether manufactured by one of our sustainable partners 120 members. The HDS/L actively advocates the in Pakistan, Dada Enterprises. business interests of its members towards political institutions and the public sphere and represents The ColourCard is an exclusive forecast of next these in national and international committees. season’s trends in shoe and leather fashion that is released twice a year by ModEurop, the trend-fash- All relevant people in the shoe fashion industry ion-platform of the German shoe instiute. The Ger- in Europe and the World use the bi-annual Col- man Shoe Institute connects, guides and influenc- ourCard to plan their fashion collections and oth- es the German footwear and leather industry. It has er industry activities. The ColourCard tells excit- been active since 1956 in close ties with HDS/L. It ing stories about the predicted colours and their discovers and distributes fashion trends in the in- themes. The colours are presented by displaying dustry, which they publish in various formats. high-quality leather samples provided by a small exclusive circle of producers. The HDS/L Federal Association of the German 117 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

During a recent event hosted by Sustainable Paki- they have an in-house processing system. Dada stan, Manfred Junkert, general manager of HDS/L, is committed to working within a clean and safe spoke about the large potential of cooperation with environment. Dada is focussing not only on their Pakistan: “There is lots of space for improvement occupational health and safety performance; they and closer relationship between Pakistan and Ger- are furthermore committed to manufacture their many“. Manfred Junkert joined the shoe and leath- goods in the most sustainable way possible. With er industry in 2007 and has since then their services and their commitment, led the HDS/L with innovative ideas Dada enterprises is a valuable and ful- and vigour, extending the federations ly transparent member of our supply networks and cooperation, as well as chain within the project. driving changes towards sustainabili- Dada Enterprises is a leading leather ty and environmental responsibility in exporter of Pakistan with silver rated the industry. LWG facilities, an in-house R&D lab, Dada created real leather samples Manfred Junkert solar plants and various water saving that had to go through meticulous General Manager of and recycling installations on their 20 quality inspection and competition be- acres state-of-the-art premise. True to fore being presented to the panel of de- HDS/L their philosophy of “passion about de- signers in Paris. Finally, five of their samples were tails, pride in perfection”, Dada uses cutting-edge selected for their superior quality, shade, texture, technology to produce leather products of excep- haptic and shine. tional quality while preserving the environment Dada enterprise is located in a designated indus- and giving to society. trial zone spread over an area of 25 acres. The com- The five samples manufactured by Dada are fea- pany beats global competition by adopting creative tured in Spring 2020 ModEurop ColourCard and techniques and practices to produce the best qual- thus will be widely distributed to designers and oth- ity goods. Their teams in Pakistan and Italy come er important actors in the show industry. As suppli- up with the out of the box ideas. With their state-of- er for the ColourCard, we also have exclusive early the-art equipment they successfully yield the most access to the colours and trends of the upcoming unique products. The most distinctive quality of the ColourCards. Manfred Junkert also commented on company is their attention to detail. Their in-house the successful cooperation between Dada Enter- team of 1000 employees bring in innovative ideas prises and ModEurop: „It’s a very good example of and provide a vast variety of leather ranging from the network and how we can cooperate and work deer, sheep and goat skins to cow hides. Moreover, together” 118

ModEurop “SUSTAINABLE FUTURE AND ETHICAL DESIGN ARE THE NEW KEY DRIVER IN THE DESIGN DEVELOPMENT.”

Trends Are Becoming Ethical Uta Riechers-Wuttke & Martin Wuttke in Conversation Uta Riechers-Wuttke (URW) and Mar- Through our international network of renowned tin Wuttke (MW) contribute to the de- trend offices and creatives from Kuala Lumpur, velopment of shoe and bag fashion as New York, Paris, Milan, and London, fabric de- creative directors for the orientation signers, and our more than 15 years of experience and seasonal colour charts and trend forecast for in design for global fashion houses, we bundle our ModEurop. Besides that, they are the founders of research to offer our clients commercially suc- the Berlin-based design and trend agency nextgu- cessful design and colour concepts. ruNow. They de- What trends can velop custom- we expect in ized collections 2021? and offer trend consultancy for MW: Reduction, international abstract clarity, clients in the the green move- men’s and wom- ment and sensu- en’s wear sector al extravaganza and casual wear will define the market, using season 2021. their know-how Hype is no longer to transform fashionable. conceptual ide- Reality rules. as into success- Uta Riechers-Wuttke and Martin Wuttke Down-to-earth ful collections trends replace which meet end consumer needs. street cult brands. In an interview, Miuccia Prada We got together with them to talk about their pre- recently diagnosed a new “Focus on the Essential”, dictions for next season’s shoe fashion. meaning looks and trends will last across sea- sons, in the best sense. Nature and environment What is the process behind picking the trends are the higher-level constants for all the trends in of the next season? How  do you decide what 2021, be it the emerging crafts movement identi- colours, textures, materials and themes will fied under the theme “Sensitive”, or abstract floral shape fashion in the future? statements in the rubric “Impulsive”. As more and URW: Every season, the aim is to absorb the more people live in mega-cities around the globe, changes in international trends. This means re- our theme “Constructive” addresses their need searching at trade fairs, analyzing international for protection, but also their desire for a general designer shows, but also socio-cultural trends in feeling of wellness in the urban space. the fields of art, music, lifestyle and streetwear. In The ModEurop Trend forecast states: “Sustainable addition to the current colours, the aim is to make future and ethical design are the new driver in the the long-term trends visible, and to broaden the design development” Why has ethical design be- perspective to show new technologies and mate- come important? rials. 120

MW: Sustainable design has been on the advance MW: It is our first cooperation with a company for years, and the Fridays for Future movement has from Pakistan. We got in contact with Dada En- further increased the enthusiasm for eco-friendly terprises through the activities of CSI Ltd. The products. first samples we saw were very promising. At the Customers are more informed than ever, and they Lineapelle fair, I was able to see the team and the make the difference! They want to know more whole collection – and was extremely impressed! about the product, and they ask questions: Where Not only the social and sustainable orientation of does the product come from, who made it, and the company, but also the fantastic leathers and what materials are used? In the children’s cloth- fashion orientation is impressive. For ModEurop, ing sector, the change and transformation is most it’s important that the articles on the colour chart clearly visible. are exactly reproduced and delivered on time. The There is a rethinking in many companies. In the DADA team was excellently positioned in these fashion and shoe industry, it is now a matter of aspects. driving forward the redesign of products and ma- terials step by step.  What advice would you give to designers who want to integrate ethical and sustainable design The ColourCard contains real leather/textile in their collections? samples of the predicted trends. Who supplies these samples and how do you pick the produc- MW: Many manufacturers, especially in Germa- ers? ny, often think that they should change their en- tire concept and strategy before tackling sustain- URW: ModEurop has a fantastic network of syner- ability. However, like many other experts, we see gy partners with whom we have worked for many the importance of ‘just starting at all’. Step by step! years. We work with companies from Germany, We all know that the “one” solution does not ex- Italy, India and Pakistan. Of course, we are also ist – it is about learning to take all partners, sales regularly approached by new manufacturers and teams as well as customers on the journey with if the materials and the philosophy of the manu- you. After years of “cheap is cool”, consumers have facturer fit, a cooperation can also be established. to learn to appreciate the value of manufactur- ing products again. This rethinking is not possi- How has been your experience with Dada En- ble with a wagging finger. Fashion is and remains terprises, who supplied leather samples for the seduction and sensuality. This should go hand in ColourCard? hand with sustainable development. 121 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

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“...a new generation of entrepreneurs is emerging in Pakistan” 123 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

Connecting Young Minds The Young Entrepreneurs Network supports and collaborates with the leaders of tomorrow Text by Dr. Zubair Bandukda Pakistan is ranked the 5th youngest in the young leaders. The “Young Entrepreneurs Net- world with 70% of the 220 million under work” co-operates with young entrepreneurs in 35 years of age. Many of these young peo- Pakistan in the areas of innovation, communi- ple are well educated and future-oriented. cation, and compliance to jointly develop ideas Their high level of education and open-minded- and concepts in these areas and develop a com- ness facilitates communica- munity of future-oriented Paki- tion and cooperation on the stani entrepreneurs and busi- international level. As in many nesses. It offers a networking places in the world, a growing infrastructure and community number of open-minded, cos- for young entrepreneurs, start- mopolitan young people want ups, managers, engineers, and to make a difference in their designers. Participants will life and community – a new gain access to think tanks and generation of entrepreneurs start-up accelerator, seminars is emerging in Pakistan. Com- and events, as well as ample prised of both second and third networking opportunities. generation business owners, as The Young Entrepreneurs well a new business founders, Network will not just be active this generation wants to drive in Pakistan, but also extend to change in their country and Berlin and other European and find solutions for the future. American cities, connecting However, they have a rocky Zubair Bandukda entrepreneurs and startups Consultant at CSI road ahead. Despite the young around the globe. Creating a people’s potential and ambi- global community of change- tion, access to opportunities, network and com- makers. munication is lacking, especially compared to If you would like to learn more, contact Dr. their counterparts in Europe or America. An ini- Zubair Bandukda at: tiative wants to build on the current momentum by cooperating with and supporting this group of [email protected] 124

UPCOMING TRADESHOWS 125 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

Trade fairs are one of the oldest communica- being integrated in show concepts. While many tion platforms. They have always been a place events were forced to move online in 2020, the where people from different parts of the world coming year will see a comeback of physical exchange products, ideas, and showcase new in- shows, as well as new concepts. Frankfurt Fash- ventions. Frankfurt, for example, looks back on ion Week, a new show that aims to become the almost 900 years of documented history of trade new hotspot of global fashion. Its show concept shows. Since then, trade shows have grown into integrates Applied Sustainability’ and ‘Applied an industry in itself, but the essence remains – a Digitisation’ as strategic pillars. Then there is place of communication and innovations. Heimtextil, the biggest event for home textiles of the year. And just next month, Neonyt is contin- As the world is changing, so are trade fairs. uing its digital exploration with Neonyt On Air. Topics such as sustainability and digitisation are 126

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JANUARY 2021 fashion and textile industry in the week from 18- 22 January 2021. Further information about the Neonyt is going back “on air” – No physical line-up will follow on the Neonyt website in the winter edition in January 2021 coming weeks. Text by Laura Schönhardt The exhibitors’ order business has also been The ongoing, difficult situation and the latest taken into consideration in the modified plans: decisions made by the German government are thanks to Neonyt’s cooperation with B2B mar- once again making it impossible to plan Neonyt ketplace The Brand Show Circular, brands will – and as a result, the physical event, from 19-21 have the opportunity to position themselves in January 2021, will no longer be taking place. But an international order setting, maintain existing the sustainability community doesn’t have to business contacts and acquire new customers – forgo Neonyt completely: the digital community despite contact and travel restrictions. The digi- format “Neonyt On Air” will be entering into its tal services of the B2B platform range from clas- second round instead. sic marketing and order activities down to virtual Like last summer, January will see the return of showrooms with multimedia content. the digital “Neonyt on Air” format – in numerous talks, panel discussions and masterclasses the Neonyt brings together the sustainable, community will be discussing the latest devel- tech-savvy and forward looking side of fashion opments and innovations from the sustainable as a global hub for fashion, sustainability and in- novation. 128

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MAY 4-7TH, 2021 fairs and are next due to be held in May 2021. For Heimtextil, this is an opportunity to join forces Heimtextil 2021 to be held in May with the two internationally successful textile Text by Thimo Schwenzfeier trade fairs and present the entire textile value The next Heimtextil has been postponed from chain simultaneously”, says Olaf Schmidt, Vice January and will now be held concurrently with President Textiles and Textile Technologies. Techtextil and Texprocess 2021 in Frankfurt from 4 to 7 May 2021, resulting in exciting synergistic Additionally, holding Heimtextil concurrently effects for the sector. with Techtextil, the leading international trade The current situation has caused Messe Frank- fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, and furt to postpone the next Heimtextil, the world’s Texprocess, the leading international trade fair biggest trade fair for home and contract textiles, for processing textile and flexible materials, of- from the planned dates in January until 4 to 7 May fers a host of exciting synergistic effects for the 2021. “The bulk of the international home and sector. contract textiles sector want us to hold Heimtex- til 2021. And we consider it a greater obligation The close proximity to suppliers and buyers than ever before that we play our part in this”, of technical textiles and nonwovens with inno- explains Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive vative functionalities, as well as machines and Board of Messe Frankfurt. “We are in constant the latest technologies for processing textile and contact with our exhibitors and the appropriate flexible materials, is certain to generate interest- authorities and will do everything in our power ing new perspectives for both visitors and exhib- to ensure a safe and successful Heimtextil 2021.” itors of Heimtextil. Indeed, the two textile fairs “Techtextil and Texprocess are biennial trade already aim at the home-textile sector with the ‘Hometech’ segment. Heimtextil will open its doors from 4 to 7 May 2021. 130

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JULY 5-9TH, 2021 a more sustainable and fairer fashion industry stem from a common “we” culture that is pur- Frankfurt Fashion Week: New International pose-driven and intrinsically motivated. Mor- Fashion Hotspot will Focus On Sustainability al-driven eco-pessimism is finally a thing of the and Digitisation past. Making sustainable innovations and busi- ness models accessible to a wide market is what Frankfurt Fashion Week is becoming a new Frankfurt Fashion Week sees as its mission. It of- fashion hotspot, incorporating Europe’s biggest fers state-of-the-art companies a stage and sup- fashion fairs: PREMIUM, Europe’s most relevant port the development of those who are still in the business platform for advanced women’s and starting blocks. With great conviction, Frankfurt menswear, SEEK, one of the most progressive Fashion Week wants to play its part in taking sus- tradeshows for contemporary fashion, and NEO- tainability in the fashion business to the next lev- NYT, the leading hub for sustainable fashion. To- el and incorporating it along the value chain. gether with the Fashionsustain and Fashiontech conferences, they are all moving from Berlin to Digitising The Fashion Business Frankfurt am Main. In the focus: the two overar- Big data, blockchain, digital twins, virtual real- ching themes of digitalisation and sustainability. ity, artificial intelligence, smart textiles, function New Technology Meets Applied Sustainability and performance textiles, 3D body scans, ava- “Unveiling The Unexpected” is a promise: tars, digital retail experiences – today more than ever, these are all part of the real-digital reality Frankfurt Fashion Week pools fashion, design, for the fashion industry. Digitisation has become sustainability and technology, giving rise to un- a top priority because it is meanwhile so instru- expected cooperations and showing what is al- mental to success – and there can be no success ready possible today. ‘Applied Sustainability’ and without it. ‘Applied Digitisation’ form the strategic pillars of the event. Frankfurt Fashion Week will make in- There can be no success without digitisation novative, more sustainable products, collections Long-standing problems can be solved by and business models accessible to the wider these new technologies. New opportunities are market. At the same time, it also promotes the emerging to make processes more efficient and future-oriented interconnection of fashion and create never-seen-before experiences. Fashion, technology as part of the real-digital reality. design and digitisation are all mutually depend- ent, today and in the future. Frankfurt Fashion For A Sustainable Future Week has recognised this momentum. These days, systemic improvements towards Frankfurt Fashion Week will take place from 5 to 9 July 2021. 132

ShowOn Sustainable Pakistan showcases sustainable and innovative producers around the World 133 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

International communication and marketing are position that the visitor could not miss. a key component of Sustainable Pakistan. Joint representation of partners factories plays a vi- Over 60.000 visitors had the chance to learn tal role in transporting the messages carried by more about the project, the partner factories and project and bundles the forces of our partners. their products as well as about Pakistan. The 50th Since August 2019, Sustainable Pakistan and our edition of the Heimtextil embraced the topic of partners had multiple opportunities to showcase sustainability within the textile industry, giving what we do at international events. Sustainable Pakistan and its members an edge when communicating their commitment to- Sep 2019: Munich Fabric Start wards the topics of sustainability and transpar- ency. A message the partners were not just able The project’s path into the global spotlight start- to communicate through the exhibition booth, ed with a soft roll-out to the general public in but also through participation in various events September 2019 during the Munich Fabric Start. including a panel discussion event introducing Munich Fabric Start is a leading international Sustainable Pakistan and discussing the changes fabric trade fair, which takes place twice a year, in and around the global textile industry.  right on time for the start of the season. At the trade show, interested visitor enjoyed the op- Although Heimtextil was the last event that we portunity to learn more about the concept, ideas were able to attend in person, participation in and background of the project as well as to meet online events and conferences continued. a number of representatives.  Jan 2020: Heimtextil June 2020: TexWorld USA The successful introduction to the broader We had the opportunity to showcase Sustaina- public in Munich was followed by a significant ble Pakistan at Texworld USA, the “Mecca” of the representation at the Heimtextil trade show in global textile industry. To accommodate current Frankfurt in January 2020, the biggest interna- circumstances, the event was held on a digital tional trade fair for home and contract textiles. platform, which included virtual showrooms, Sustainable Pakistan was present as a featured interactive educational programming, live chats exhibitor to promote innovative producers from and online networking. Pakistan on a global stage. Twenty producers were carefully chosen to help rebrand Pakistan’s It was the first time Sustainable Pakistan was ex- textile industry. As a featured exhibition, Sus- hibited at the event. Considering ethical sourc- tainable Pakistan set up its stand at a prominent ing as a key fashion trend, we proudly showcased innovative products manufactured by our part- 134

Show On ner factories. All textile goods were produced us- ing environmentally friendly methods by manu- facturers valuing transparency and compliance as core concept behind their products. The products successfully caught the eyes of various buyers, who were given insight into the textile industry of Pakistan this way. The buyers also learned that sustainability builds the conceptually fundament of the products’ design and brand labels. At the event, we had the opportunity to interact with buyers from different parts of the world and engage in fascinating exchange. Thanks to the success at the trade shows, we al- ready look forward to participating in next year’s shows and spreading the project’s message on more platforms. 135 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

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Bridging the Gap of Quality Control PFI, TTI and CSI held virtual event for the textile industry on October 22nd, 2020 Any good relationship is build on trust, which Tti has a country-wide network of labs and cus- can be difficult to establish when entering new tomer centres including a modern purpose-built international partnerships. Travel restriction main testing facility in Lahore as well as liaison only make it worse, which is why a network of offices in five cities. trusted partners is a neccesity when expanding into a new market. Quality control is an essential In October, PFI and tti jointly invited diverse element of fashion manufacturing. Locally per- guests from different parts of the industry to formed testing and inspection can uncover de- discuss the current challenges and solutions of fects at an early stage, avoid complications and global quality assurance and compliance. Guest prevent unanticipated delays. speakers Andreas Tepest, Global Head of Quality Management at Deichmann, Uwe Thamm, Glob- To facilitate the trust building process, we al Production Head at Josef Seibel, and Dersim brought together two recognized inspection and Avdar, and Co-founder of Digital Footwear Solu- testing companies, PFI and Tti in a global net- tions, shared their views on the benefits of local work that combines expertise on international partnerships in Pakistan as well as the trends and market requirements with local presence. PFI outlook for 2021. Participants also learned about has more than 60 years of experience in the foot- the recent and upcoming changes in legal and wear, leather and consumer goods industry and customer requirements and what that means for is represented in Germany, Hong Kong, Main- global supply chains thanks to the contribution land China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Pakistan. of Manfred Junkert from the Federal Association Its team of quality, chemical and sustainability of the German Footwear and Leather Goods In- experts engages in testing, quality inspections, dustry (HDS/L). factory audits, sustainability consultancy, and certification. Tti (short for Textile Testing In- Bringing together different people on global ternational) on the other hand is a world class, platforms, from Europe and Asia, from different globally recognized and accredited testing facili- backgrounds and all parts of the supply chain, is ty and inspection body and the first lab approved essential to create constructive dialogue and find by US consumer product safety commission workable solutions for tomorrow. The event es- (CPSC) for consumer safety testing in Pakistan. tablished a space in which communication can happen, openly and cooperatively. 137 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

Andreas Tepest Uwe Thamm Global Head of Quality Global Production Head Management, Deichmann Josef Seibel Gerhard Nickolaus Hamed K.Lateef Candice Wang CEO Managing Director,s PFI TTI Testing Laboratorie Fareast (Hong Kong) Ltd Dersim Avdar Sarim Mehmood, Co-Founder and CEO General Manager DFS Digital Footwear TTI Testing Laboratories Solutions 138

Image Credits Cover ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.77 Design: Karl Borgschulze ©️ illoom/Eckart Content page 1 ©️ CSI Ltd. P.78 ©️ Eckart Content page 2 ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.79-82 Design: Karl Borgschulze ©️ illoom/Eckart P.1 ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.83-86 ©️ Shutterstock.com P.3 Photo by Karl Borgschulze ©️ CSI Ltd. P.87 ©️ Holger Fischer P.6 Design by Winnie Hiyadi Liu P.90 Photo by Karl Borgschulze ©️ CSI Ltd. P.8-12 ©️ CSI Ltd. P.91-93 ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.13-14 ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.94 Photo by Saniya Nasir ©️ CSI Ltd. P.16 ©️ German Design Council P.95 ©️ Sven Liebenow P.17-18 ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.96 ©️ Shutterstock.com P.19-33 Photos by Saniya Nasir ©️ CSI Ltd. P.98 ©️ Ingmar Lehmann P.34 Photos by Matthias Kind ©️ GIZ P.99 ©️ Shutterstock.com P.35 [Intermarket Knit; Vision Technologies] ©️ Nou- P.101-112 ©️ German Design Council man Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.113-116 ©️ MODEUROP/Deutsches Schuhinstitut P.36 [Samad Apparel] ©️ Samad Group (Pvt). Ltd. GmbH P.37-43 ©️ Eurocentra/Wünsche Group P.117-118 [Factory images] Dada Enterprises. ©️ Nou- P.44 ©️ Holger Fischer man Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.45 ©️ Kaschif R. Isra P.118 [Manfred Junkert portrait] ©️ CSI Ltd. P.46-50 ©️ Eurocentra/Wünsche Group P.119 ©️ MODEUROP/Deutsches Schuhinstitut GmbH P.51-56 ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio P.120 © Michael Schehl P.57 [Laboratory] ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Stu- P.121-122 Dada Enterprises. ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s dio Film Studio P. 57 [Ball design] ©️ Vision Technologies P.124 Photo by Zubair Bandukda ©️ CSI Ltd. P. 58 [Manual printing] ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film P.134-135 ©️ CSI Ltd. Studio P.138 [Portraits of Andreas Tepest, Uwe Thamm & P. 57 [Pigment samples] ©️ Vision Technologies Dersim Avdar] ©️ CSI Ltd. P.59-60 ©️ Vision Technologies P.138 [Photo of Gerhard Nickolaus & Candice Wang] P.62 ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio ©️ PFI Hong Kong Ltd. P.64 Photo by Saniya Nasir ©️ CSI Ltd. P.138 [Portraits of Hamed K. Lateef & Sarim Me- P.65-72 ©️ Nouman Ayyaz/Jerry’s Film Studio hmood] ©️ Textile Testing International P.73-76 ©️ Eckart P.141 Photo by Karl Borschulze ©️ CSI Ltd. 139 Issue No 1 / Sustainable Pakistan

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