India Today 20 jan

GAME DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT Srishti Institute of Art, Design and Technology, Bengaluru www.srishti.ac.in Offered at Srishti’s main campus in Bengaluru, this two-year master’s programme—in game design and development—takes students through the intricacies of game design, offering them a chance to work with academic and industry experts to develop skills in design, programming and narra- tive design. Talking about the course, Geetha Naray- anan, founder-director at the Srishti Institute of Art, Design and Technology, says, “We create an impact on our students through our indigenous pedagogy.” NareshTIGEJariwalaR BRIGHT SPARK “WE CREATE AN IMPACT The curriculum includes game ON OUR design and programming, STUDENTS aesthetics, user experience and narrative design, the business THROUGH AN of games and image-making INDIGENOUS processes, with a focus on PEDAGOGY” experimentation, RAJWANT RAWAT PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT A workshop at Srishti “STUDENTS NEED TO innovation and creative collaboration. Apart from the BE AWARE OF DESIGN mandatory and elective courses, students have to de- PHILOSOPHIES, velop and produce a capstone project or a thesis over a TECHNIQUES AND THE period of two semesters. LATEST TECHNOLOGY” FUTURE PERFECT The programme includes the study of art design and technology. Students are encouraged to collaborate with artists, designers and other student groups. The gaming industry and interactive-media firms are future prospects. ENTRY SALARY Rs 5 lakh per annum. n -by Aditi Pai JA N UA RY 20, 2020 INDIA TODAY 49

S M A R T E D U C A T I O N STUDY CLEAR IMAGINATION Students at Lovely Professional University NareshTIGEJariwalaR “THE COURSE INCLUDES A PROJECT IN WHICH STUDENTS HAVE TO EARN AT LEAST $400 BY FREELANCING” GRAPHIC I f human-computer interaction, UX design conceptual design, 3D animation, gaming, DESIGN and motion graphics interest you, this effects and simulations. The four-year pro- course might be for you. Visual and con- gramme allows them to specialise in applied Lovely Professional textual aptitude skills are important, as are graphics design, motion graphics and inter- basic drawing abilities. Students are taught active design for a year with a compulsory University, Punjab related skills, including sketching, life study, industry internship. “Graphic designers are www.lpu.in typography, concept and digital art. sought after for their ability to create visually stimulating images. They are required in all STUDY FOCUS industries to shape brand identities and user experiences,” says Sridhar R., head of the Lovely Professional University (LPU) offers multimedia department at the LPU School a bachelor’s degree in Graphic Design and of Design. Talking about his experience of a BSc in Graphics as three- and four-year the programme at LPU, Viplav Upadhyay, courses. Its curriculum emphasises theoreti- currently working as an associate lead in cal principles for print, package design, UI/ user experience and design at Nagarro, a UX design and environmental graphics. To global software development and technology qualify, students need a minimum of 60 per consultancy firm, says, “The course includes cent in their 12th board exams and need to a project where students have to take up pass entrance tests such as the LPU National freelance projects in their area of interest and Eligibility and Scholarship Test and the earn at least $400 for good grades. This was Undergraduate Common Entrance Exami- helpful in gaining industry experience.” nation for Design. TOP SKILLS ENTRY SALARY The curriculum offers students minor elec- Rs 2.4-7.6 lakh per annum. n tives in subjects such as 3D visualisation, —by Mrini Devnani 50 INDIA TODAY JA N UA RY 20, 2020

RHYTHM DIVINE A sound studio at FTII FASHION DESIGN National Institute of Fashion Design (NIFT), Delhi www.nift.ac.in F ashion design is all about as well as embroider and print on illustrating, draping, detail- them. They know how to sketch, ing and pattern-making. finish, style and photograph the While courses teach sketching, pieces by themselves.” Designer all the way from drawing a hu- Rajesh Pratap Singh says, “I was man body to the minute details part of one of the first batches of of accessories, graduates can NIFT, when they only had one also construct campus in Delhi. SOUND RECORDING AND DESIGN garments, create “GRADUATES My teachers were surface ornamenta- ARE TRAINED dedicated to help- Film and Television Institute of tion and drape ma- TO SKETCH, ing me learn and India, Pune www.ftii.ac.in terials into a dress went out of their form. The National FINISH, way to do so.” Sound designers are in great demand in Institute of Fashion STYLE AND cinema, television, radio, web videos Design (NIFT), PHOTOGRAPH INDUSTRY READY and live sound recording and mixing. Delhi, is one of the THEIR PIECES most reputed in THEMSELVES” With a craft course as part of the cur- NareshTIGEJariwalaR this field. riculum, students TUNE IN meet craftsmen Those interested could do a three-year PG programme in sound recording and sound A CLASS APART from UP, Rajasthan, Jammu and design at FTII. “Among other skills, students learn sound recording on-location and Students are selected for the Kashmir, Gujarat, Chhattisgarh in-studio, as well as sound editing, music recording and mixing, recording for movies four-year programme on the and Haryana. “Students develop and the aesthetics of sound along with sessions of critical learning and film sound basis of NIFT’s entrance exam, a project in their final year called analysis,” says Harish K.M., head of depart- ment (film wing). which includes a sketching test ‘craft-based product develop- followed by studio or situation ment’ with the help of these tests in which they are given craftsmen,” says Narang. The in- projects to work on. According to stitute has also started inter-de- Vandana Narang, campus direc- partmental minor courses where tor of NIFT, Delhi, “Our course students can choose subjects is holistic and offers hands-on from other departments. HIGH NOTES training and a liberal arts educa- A sound designer’s job is to create an tion. Students are trained to use ENTRY SALARY aural-scape for a movie that complements machines and know how to cut Rs 5-7 lakh per annum. n its visual content. This includes various garments, sew and stitch them, —by Mrini Devnani aspects of sound design such as recording dialogues, cleaning and editing, recording and editing the foley effects (footsteps, SHEKHAR GHOSH cloth rustles and other incidental sounds), creating special ef- fects depending upon “SOUND the content of the DESIGNERS movie, adding ambi- DECIDE ON ence, background THE AURAL score and finally TREATMENT mixing everything OF A MOVIE ” together to produce the final soundscape. After completion of their course, students can work for film, television and web series CRAFTS as location sound recordists, dialogue edi- PERSONS tors, sound effects editors, and as studio Students at NIFT, Delhi recordists specialising in music recording, dubbing and voice-over recording. ENTRY SALARY Rs 3.6-6 lakh per annum. n —by Shelly Anand

S M A R T E D U C A T I O N STUDY NareshTIGEJariwalaRSHEKHAR GHOSHINTERIOR AND SPACE DESIGN L ooking for ideas to make the Apeejay Institute of Design, Delhi best use of the space at your LEARN BY DOING www.apeejay.edu disposal at your home or in the office? It’s something people An Apeejay student at “LEARNING HAS TO often find themselves doing. How to the institute BE ADVENTUROUS, reconfigure and better organise in- AND THAT’S WHAT terior spaces—inside homes, offices, cultural spaces or even retail outlets. WE FOCUS ON” This is what space designing is about. In this context, interior and space designers are most sought-after. The field of space design covers the creation of functional areas, which students of such programmes learn alongside other related aspects. The Apeejay Institute of Design, for example, teaches its students these and related concepts through design workshops, market research, docu- mentation and industry internships. EXPANDING HORIZONS The three-year, full-time professional diploma programme, offered at both the undergraduate and postgraduate levels, stresses on market research so that students have a clear idea of what’s happening in their industry. Reetu Betala, founding director, Apeejay Institute of Design, says, “Learning has to be adventurous. That’s what we focus on. We don’t want our students to be inside the classrooms [through their courses], only to be thrown out into the market [at the end of the course].” SHARP FOCUS While logical thinking, observation, communication skills and aesthetic inclination are a few of the quali- ties the students need to have, an aptitude to think out of the box and a willingness to experiment are some of the others. ENTRY SALARY Rs 4.2-6 lakh per annum. n —by Shelly Anand 52 INDIA TODAY JA N UA RY 20, 2020

MAKE THE FUTURE A student at a design workshop at NID NareshTIGEJariwalaR FURNITURE AND INTERIOR DESIGN National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad www.nid.edu A critical engagement with living is a plus,” says Sweety Taur, of the fur- followed by studio tests for admission spaces and the finesse to create niture and interior design department to the four-year bacherlor’s design elegant products—the nucleus at NID Ahmedabad. Graduates can programme after Class 12. For the of furniture and interior design is work in manufacturing or in private two-year master’s design programme, reimagining lifestyles. Ergonomics, consulting firms in design, engineer- students need to pass a design aptitude geometry, fabrication, aesthetics and ing and technology. Job roles range test, a studio test and an interview. Ac- systems-thinking are a few of its core cording to Sandeep Sangaru, founder areas. Skill development in this field “CANDIDATES of the Bengaluru-based Sangaru De- includes material application, drawing SHOULD HAVE sign Studio and an NID alumnus, “For and out-of-the-box thinking. Offer- a furniture designer, it is necessary to ing bachelor’s and master’s courses A SENSE OF be hands-on in order to translate your in furniture and interior design, PROPORTION AND ideas into objects through the creative National Institute of Design (NID), process. I was a part of NID from 1996 Ahmedabad, also trains students to PAY ATTENTION to 1999 and what I learnt there is the solve development and environmental TO DETAIL” capability to explore and find answers. issues. An essential part of my experience has from designers, consultants, research- been to create products which could FIELD WORK ers, material testers, innovators, train- primarily cater to the producer and ers and production planners. consumer, not just the market.” “We stress on inculcating a life-long learning attitude. So, the candidate SUBJECT OF STUDY ENTRY LEVEL SALARY should have a sense of proportion, be strict with details and think responsi- Aspiring students need to pass a Rs 3.6-5 lakh per annum. n bly. Alignment with human sensitivity design aptitude test conducted as part —by Mrini Devnani of the NID entrance exam, which is JA N UA RY 20, 2020 INDIA TODAY 53

S M A R T E D U C A T I O N STUDY INDUSTRIAL DESIGN DESIGN DETAILS Symbiosis Institute of Symbiosis students Design, Pune www.sid.edu.in on campus JIGNESH MISTRY F rom water-saving shower heads to teaches manual and digital skills, visuali- THE LAST GPS-enabled walking sticks, many sation and articulation, so that students SEMESTER modern products combine design and can work with different materials and INCLUDES technology. The students of industrial design understand the ergonomics of products, A DEGREE at the Symbiosis Institute of Design in Pune computer-aided drafting, graphics, pack- PROJECT are taught to create innovative products to ing design, photography and portfolio- SO THAT solve problems through a study of technol- making. The last semester includes a GRADUATES ogy and training in conceptualisation. degree project for experience in industrial HAVE work. The focus is on physical products INDUSTRY COMPLETE TRAINING Spread over eight and environments and the user’s needs EXPERIENCE semesters, the four-year undergraduate and aspirations. programme is open to students who have completed their Class 12 and have cleared ENTRY SALARY Rs 5-6 lakh per annum. n the institute’s entrance exam. The course —by Aditi Pai NareshTIGEJariwalaR TRANSPORTATION DESIGN lenges, besides considering style, comfort, branding, safety and function. The programme World University of Design, Sonipat, Haryana in transportation design at World University of www.worlduniversityofdesign.ac.in Design (WUD) in Sonipat is a popular choice. CHANDRADEEP KUMAR SOARING HIGH CARS OF Offered as four-year undergraduate and two- TOMORROW year postgraduate courses, these teach auto- motive design, surface molding, ergonomics, Students at WUD manufacturing, user experience, surface and colour applications, design detailing, digital sculpting, vehicle interiors and sustainable technology. Sanjay Gupta, vice-chancellor, WUD, says, “Students also learn how different modes of transport affect the environment and communities.” Aspiring students need a score of 50 per cent in Class 12 and need to clear an aptitude test and interview. T oday, smart transport solutions SUSTAINABLE, GROWTH CHART that promote sustainability and ADVANCED are technologically advanced After completing the course, graduates can are needed. Aspiring students need TRANSPORT work in the transportation design industry, to develop a global vision of emerging SOLUTIONS working on cars, aircraft, watercraft, trains mobility issues and focus on utilitar- ARE THE NEED and other transport systems. ian and pragmatic solutions to chal- OF THE HOUR ENTRY SALARY Rs 5-8 lakh per annum. n —by Shelly Anand 54 INDIA TODAY JA N UA RY 20, 2020

TIGERNaresh Jariwala

EXCERPTS DREAMS OF A BILLION ARIBVIATLTREYR How the poster girls of Indian badminton, P.V. Sindhu and Saina Nehwal, fought for the attention of their beloved coach and mentor Pullela Gopichand. Exclusive extracts from a new book that looks at the back stories of these two great athletes—and at India’s prospects going into the Tokyo Olympic Games later this year. Has the early promise of Beijing 2008, the breakthroughs at London 2012, the humiliation of Rio 2016, and the soul-searching that followed in its aftermath, given India the wherewithal to break into the big league? By Boria Majumdar and Nalin Mehta NareshTIGEJariwalaR It was P.V. Sindhu’s bronze medal at the 2013 World good results. Again, I don’t blame either Saina or Gopi Championships that made things more and more for the fallout. I had started to see things go wrong and complicated for Gopi. By this time people around did my best to control the negativity. But I was helpless,” Saina [Nehwal] had started to inf luence her, said [Parupalli] Kashyap. suggesting that Gopi wasn’t giving her undivided attention anymore. She was often left to fend for “Each time Gopi tried to discipline Saina, she would herself. After losing the World Championships in take it as an affront,” he added. “She wasn’t willing to 2013, she went on a downward spiral. buckle down and do things the way Gopi wanted her to. She wasn’t in the best headspace and nor was Gopi. “Saina felt Gopi sir was hers and hers alone. It was a When we look back and take stock of the situation, very different bond that the two of them had. For years things could have been better handled by both of them.” Gopi had worked on her. All of a sudden Gopi had a lot of players to look after and Sindhu had started to show Things came to a head at the World Championships of 2014 in Denmark. Yet again, Sindhu did brilliantly to 56 INDIA TODAY JA N UA RY 20, 2020

MIDDLE STRING (L to R) Sindhu, Gopichand and Saina at a press meet after the triumphant run at the 2018 Asian Games NareshTIGEJariwalaR NOAH SEELAM / GETTY IMAGES DREAMS OF A BILLION India and the win a bronze, her second successive World Championship medal, Olympic Games while Saina failed to live up to her favourite tag, losing early. She by Boria Majumdar was shattered, Kashyap says. and Nalin Mehta HARPERCOLLINS Gopi had promised to speak to Saina at the end of the tour- `599; 352 pages nament and sort things out but the situation had spiralled out of control. She wasn’t willing to wait anymore and had made up her mind on leaving the academy. Gopi, on the other hand, was very keen to have her stay but hadn’t done enough to salvage the situation. With a lot of negativity around, Saina decided to leave Hyderabad and move to Bengaluru, to the Prakash Padukone Academy and train with Vimal Kumar. “It was as if something very dear was being taken away from JA N UA RY 20, 2020 INDIA TODAY 57

EXCERPTS DREAMS OF A BILLION me. Earlier, I had liter- Saina had a hairline fracture in her ankle just weeks be- ally begged her not to go. fore Rio and was in serious physical discomfort going into But by then she had been the Olympics. Truthfully speaking, Vimal and her sup- influenced by others and port group should not have sent her to Rio. But this was had already made up her mind. While I did not want to hold the Olympics and they were unable to make the right call her back and stall her progress, I knew this was something at the right time. In Rio, she was in agony and went to the that wasn’t beneficial for either of us. Yes, I indeed had other local doctor to get a steroid injection just a day before her players to look after and Sindhu had made serious progress first match. But by then, Kashyap says, the bone was in bad in the two years between 2012 and 2014. But I had never shape and nothing could numb the pain. It was a heartbreak intended to neglect Saina. Maybe I wasn’t able to convey this of humongous proportions. to her,” said Gopi. With Sindhu doing brilliantly to win the silver, Saina, “Maybe Viren [Rasquinha] or Vimal or Prakash sir the original superstar, seemed to have all but disappeared could have spoken to her. I don’t know why they did not. In from the people’s radar back home. fact, they encouraged her to leave Hyderabad. It is a mystery “It was clearly the worst phase in her life. She had NareshTIGEJariwalaR to me why Prakash sir has never said anything positive about lost early in the Olympics and it had wasted months and me while I have always looked up to him as my role model,” years of hard work. Gopi sir wasn’t with her anymore and he said with a sense of disappointment. she was soon to have surgery to get things back on track. She “What I felt distraught about was that she wasn’t will- had no friends in Bengaluru and did not really know what ing to wait for me for half a day more. I called her multiple to do,” said Kashyap. times from Copenhagen to say we would talk the moment “It was her grit that got her back to badminton. I I reached Hyderabad. She was have to say that if there is one on an earlier flight back to India player in the circuit who can and I was to reach Hyderabad UPS AND DOWNS win matches by her sheer grit, 12 to 14 hours later. By then they Saina with Gopichand it has to be Saina. She has the had worked it all out. Her tickets mind of Roger Federer and Ra- had been sent to her and she was fael Nadal combined and I am asked to leave Hyderabad imme- a huge fan of her mental tough- diately without waiting for me. It ness,” said Gopi. It was this grit was one of the worst days of my that pushed Saina to undergo life,” Gopi added. surgery and complete rehab as quickly as possible. *** We ask Kashyap why she While it was a feeling of betrayal didn’t go back to Gopi at that that forced Saina to move to Ben- point. His answer offers us great galuru, for Gopi it was a case of insight into Saina’s mind and losing everything he had worked helps us understand why she on for over a decade. He had lost is who she is and why she still his favourite student. Sindhu, how- stands a great chance in Tokyo. ever, benefited from this as Gopi Photograph by BANDEEP SINGH “My wife is a perfect Haryanvi started to invest in her, though it Jatni, if you know what I mean. was a challenge for him to take her She is just too headstrong and to the very top of the sport. proud. She desperately wanted Sindhu, in turn, grabbed the FOR SAINA, IT to go back to Gopi sir and say opportunity with both hands and sorry. She needed him badly started doing exactly what her WAS A SENSE OF but she was just too stubborn coach wanted her to do. While BETRAYAL THAT to admit it and open up to him. Saina always had the potential, MADE HER LEAVE She wasn’t willing to go back to HYDERABAD; FOR her departure from Hyderabad a situation where she had noth- worked wonders for Sindhu in that GOPI, IT WAS A ing to show for herself. She had it gave her more time with Gopi. to complete her rehab, make a The duo soon started preparing for comeback and then go back to the 2016 Rio Games with single- DECADE OF WORK him having proven herself,” he minded determination. DOWN THE TUBE said with a chuckle. *** ***

TIGERNaresh Jariwala

EXCERPTS DREAMS OF A BILLION WINNING COMBO Sindhu trains with Gopichand in Hyderabad It was at the Glasgow World Cham- pionships in 2017 that Saina finally spoke to Gopi. A bronze medal after coming back from her injury meant she had something to show for her efforts. That’s what prompted her to approach Gopi and ask him to take her back. “Yes, it was difficult. By this time Sindhu had become who she is now, but Saina is someone I can never say NareshTIGEJariwalaR no to. It was complicated. I have always believed these two players are the best Indian badminton has seen in decades, and as their coach, I have equal respon- sibility for both of them. Once she said to me she wanted to come back, I didn’t have it in me to say no to her,” said Gopi. REUBEN SINGH So, did Sindhu have something to say on the matter? Or did she take Saina’s return in good spirit now that she had moved far ahead in the peck- DID SINDHU HAVE SOMETHING TO SAY ing order? Could the two poster girls of ON THE MATTER? OR DID SHE TAKE Indian badminton coexist in the same academy and could Gopi give them SAINA’S RETURN IN GOOD SPIRIT NOW both his best without being accused of THAT SHE HAD MOVED FAR AHEAD IN bias? Was it even conceivable that Saina THE PECKING ORDER? and Sindhu would not have ego issues and that their parents, who make up the support team, wouldn’t feel a tinge of apprehension? It was a matter of time before prob- lems surfaced between the two play- ers. Things got complicated during the 2018 Gold Coast Commonwealth Games. While Gopi The question we had for Gopi was: did he really believe chose not to watch the final between Saina and Sindhu, in what he was saying? While Sindhu had become the the latter’s loss prompted a reaction the moment the two toast of the nation in the aftermath of her gold-winning girls returned to Hyderabad. Gopi had no choice but to performance in Basel, Saina was continuing to struggle train the two players in separate academies so that they with one injury after another, even as of October 2019. weren’t exposed to each other’s training routines. With Does she really have a chance in Tokyo? Or is Gopi giving both doing well on the circuit, there was little he could do it one last shot for old time’s sake? Can Kashyap make a but try to make the most of such a complicated situation. difference to his wife’s Olympic ambitions and can India “It is what it is because at the end of the day both of win a historic two medals in Tokyo? them respect me for what I am. And I know their strengths Gopi, who has always been objective and rational, said and weaknesses better than anyone ever can. I am con- something startling: “If the Olympics were to be played vinced both Sindhu and Saina can win medals for India a month from now, Saina stands a great chance to win a in Tokyo and that’s what I am determined to work towards medal,” he told us in September 2019. Gopi, it was clear to in the next few months,” said Gopi to us in mid-2019. Days us, believed in what he was saying. For him, Tokyo is about after this conversation, Sindhu decided to move back and winning two medals in the women’s singles. He has spent train in the SAI Gopichand Academy again—a very mature the last 15 years of his life getting two women to become decision on her part with the Olympics on her radar. the best they can be at the sport. n 60 INDIA TODAY JA N UA RY 20, 2020

NareshTIGEJariwalaR64 66 65 68 CINEMA Fighter to theFinish Much like the acid attack survivor she plays in Chhapaak, Deepika Padukone exhibits a spirit made of grit

I With Chhapaak—inspired by the life of woman Laxmi was before the attack. In the two years since Padmaavat re- acid attack survivor, Laxmi Agarwal, “She has become more quiet, articulate,” leased, Deepika Padukone got married, became an investor, started her own and her first film as a producer—Padu- she says. “Laxmi has evolved.” In a way, production house—Ka Productions— and became the chairperson of MAMI kone doesn’t just show how women are these are attributes applicable to Padu- (Mumbai Film Festival). You could now see Padukone and her husband, Ranveer subjected to violence, but also their kone after Padmaavat, which, despite Singh, attend a screening of Martin Scorsese’s gangster drama The Irishman tenacity to fight and bounce back. “The not releasing in Rajasthan and Gujarat, at Mumbai’s Regal Cinema. “I found [The Irishman] highly overrated, but biggest takeaway from my encounters earned Rs 283 crore at the box office. I can’t deny it was an incredible experi- ence to watch actors like them [Robert with Laxmi was her candidness, sense While many of her peers have been De Niro, Al Pacino, Joe Pesci] on the big screen at such an iconic cinema,” she of humour and her borderline-cocky reluctant to take a firm liberal stand, says. “Not everyone had something to do with films, but all of us who were pres- confidence,” says Padukone. “Chhapaak Padukone, on Tuesday, turned up at ent are passionate about them.” isn’t just emotional and heavy, it’s Jawaharlal Nehru University to express It’s this passion that has helped her deal with death threats and the vitriol also upbeat and funny. her solidarity with pro- of fringe groups like the There’s hope.” Padukone’s testing students. Unlike Written by director role in other colleagues, she has Chhapaak has not been photographed Meghna Gulzar and Ati- been the most emotionally ka Chohan, the film sees taxing of her with powerful politi- Padukone play Malti, cians. Even as Akshay who takes legal recourse career Kumar was rebuked for to ban the sale of acid in his Canadian citizen- shops. She is on a mis- ship and for not voting in sion to end the atrocity of the Lok Sabha election, acid attacks. Instead of Padukone quietly shared NareshTIGEJariwalaR taking the biopic route, a photo on Instagram the writers highlight the with an inked finger, lives of survivors. “The laying rest to claims that biggest challenge these girls face, once she had held on to her Danish pass- they have overcome their trauma, is of port. More than her words, her actions inclusion,” says Gulzar. “They begin speak volumes. “There is certainly more to accept the face that looks back in thought behind what I do and why I do the mirror. They put on make-up and it,” she says. “Not to say that I don’t make dress up. Then what? Do they work in mistakes along the way. I would like to a beauty parlour or in a five-star hotel? believe I don’t do things that are expected of me or because everybody else is doing le it. [I ask myself] what do I want to do or ally say? Is this something I believe in?” She er of also trusts the value system instilled in did her by her parents, Prakash and Ujjala ne, Padukone: “I’ve never seen them misuse power or their celebrity status. Some- f times we take parenting for granted, but ch I really do think it plays a huge role in he how you turn out.” Padukone talks about “making a positive impact” through her work. The name of her company, Ka, in Egyptian theology, means one of the three parts of the soul. “It is the part that gets left behind after death,” she says. “I’d like people to remember me for my work.” It is why Chhapaak stands apart in her oeuvre. She isn’t playing a well-styled heroine or an urban woman. With Chhapaak, she expects her fans to come see her, but also someone entirely differ- ent. There’s, however, one similarity be- tween the two—they are both fighters. n —Suhani Singh

HERO BOOKS LEISURE WORSHIP DILIP KUMAR INSPIRES SUPERLATIVES, BUT THIS BOOK NEVER TRANSCENDS ITS A DURING A CONVERSATION with whelming impact of hi force performances a friend about cinema books an inescapably bewit once, I found myself defending the hagiographical approach. Those last few words NareshTIGEJariwalaR true, and the reader h Our relationship with films and the brunt; perhaps it’s film stars can be very intense, intimate and proprietary; if an to ask that even fanbo written in something l author chooses a favourite sub- consciousness. ject to write a whole book about, and then invests time and effort For the rest, ther synopses of key movi in doing so, why expect the result emphasis being on wh to be detached and (loathsome word) “objective”? Surely it’s actor does in them—a through generalise understandable if the writing is gushing rather th full of fanboy passion. Well, after reading in-depth analy ses. There this new book, I have aenaTdchDtdhfoeliIepoLphhwauIyagPtypreodepKifrsrffUbaaeeoinMsvnlseeeoAonuofgRnh are behin rethought my posi- the-scene tion a little. This is anecdote a special variety of hagiography, references one that involves so contempor all of which h many breathless gasps worth, even if of excitement, so much hyperbole on every page that sented in a hotchpotc The main value of it almost defeats the purpose: that it is well produce clarity is lost in a tangle of flow- ery praise, and even diehard Dilip good—there are hundr tographs, movie stills Kumar fans (such as yours truly) which frequently mak might easily be put off. Letting some of this prose case for Dilip Kumar’s than the writing does. speak for itself, in just the first literature in any real s few pages we are told about “a legend who is the ultimate, the a passable decorativ limitless, and the endless […] a one’s living room. n superstar far above the unattain- able peak of fame, ensconced —J on a much loftier pedestal”. Dilip Kumar, it is asserted, “draws [audiences] alluringly into the world of mimeses” and “essayed Sisyphean roles with effortless ease and never stooped low to raise boisterous merriment”. This sort of thing can get exhausting, and the book rarely lets up. “We have never seen any DILIP KUMAR flaws in any Dilip Kumar portrayal Peerless Icon Inspiring Generatio despite a most critical scrutiny,” Trinetra Bajpai and the authors write. “The over- Anshula Bajpai BLOOMSBURY `1,299; 323 pages

LEISURE alpana Mohan has a rather cavalier at the bottom of the heap where you find desperate way with language. Her metaphors delivery boys. Perhaps someone should apprise them are constantly doing alarming things. of D.H. Lawrence’s remark about working-class people So, on the very first page, her mother being “branded on the tongue”—damned by their English, is reported as “failing...to savour the not by the lack of it. On second thought, perhaps not, kinks and clefts of language”—which, on second because hope is a scarce commodity in failing (failed?) thought, might be just as well. A few pages later, we societies. Indeed, hope comes in strange disguises encounter “English preferences in music [beginning] (strange accents too—see Trollspeak, or the India-beat- to impale conservative arts in South ing triumph of Chetan Bhagat). It is in this kind India”, which makes me worried about Is Hinglish of context, these paired contradictions that those poor arts, but I suspect that for capable of people speak of English in India as a “mixed Mohan, “impale” has something to do yielding some- blessing”. I am inclined, however, to suggest with the “paleness” of English complex- thing more that it is a “mixed curse”. ions. Later, on p.145, we find “a pensive The plurality of Indian Englishes has than sociol- many defenders. Arvind Krishna Mehrotra Buddha [who] lays his head on his thigh, pondering the stillness of the water.” ogy, parody writes perceptively about the creative ap- Granted, the Buddha was no ordinary and Kangana propriations of this plurality in his writings person, but with my head on my thigh on Kolatkar. And, indeed, the great exemplar all I could “ponder” was the pain in my Ranaut? is American-English which, evolving against NareshTIGEJariwalaR back. Unless, of course—down, wicked the disdain of the Professor Higginses of the thought!—it was someone else’s thigh. world, has moved far beyond its early timidity It’s a pity Mohan’s book isn’t better and, with the diverse contributions of writers than it is, because her subject—English in India, its like Mark Twain, Alice Walker and Paul Beatty, invented power and toxicity, its exuberant and exasperating an idiom that is vibrant and bursting with vitality. I plurality—is important. The proliferation of “English- hope I am not being unforgivably elitist when I say that medium” schools is both a scandal, and a business Bhagat—or the egregious errors of the kind that are opportunity. We read about the desperate young men assembled for comic effect in collections with titles like who crowd into “coaching centres” across small- Entry from Backside Only—are a poor rival thereto. Is it town India, in the hope of acquiring “spoken English” possible that the prolific linguistic phenomenon called sufficient to give them a leg up in the furious struggle Hinglish—the longing for and mangling of English—is capable of yielding something more than sociology and Minding BOOK broad comedy, parody and Kangana Ranaut? There is Our Language Rushdie, of course, and behind him there is the great, forgotten father figure of G.V. Desani who demonstrat- ed, in All About H. Hatterr, both the comic possibilities, and the limitations of this minimalised, bastard idiom. This is fascinating territory, and it may well be that the populist upsurge will kill residual traces of mandarin A book about English in India is energetic English. But alas, while Mohan is tirelessly energetic— busily traversing the country, raiding markets, invading in approach but superficial in analysis homes in quest of observations—her analysis is also relentlessly superficial. n —Alok Rai AN ENGLISH MADE IN INDIA by Kalpana Mohan ALEPH `399; 224 pages ALAMY

BEAUTY BOOKS AND THE BEAST MUSHARRAF ALI FAROOQI INVENTS A NEW MYTHOLOGY THAT REVISES THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN HUMANS AND NATURE NareshTIGEJariwalaR THE MERMAN AND THE BOOK OF POWER by Musharraf Ali Farooqi ALEPH `499; 208 pages The Qissa—an oral story- Qissas are portrayed as love Juvayni and his advisor, and lewd. Her sexuality is telling tradition popular stories, but on a deeper level, the geographer, physician, her only power and she uses in South Asia—portrays they are platforms to express astronomer and author- it to save herself. By teasing sociological realities of the defiance and rebellion. ity on religion, Qazwini. and taunting the merman, communities it represents: When presented with an she seduces him. She doesn’t customs, practices, aspira- True to form, this story, odd gift—a ferocious and quake before his ferocity. tions and fears. But Qissas presented by Farooqi as a possibly ominous mer- The love that grows between are also a way of critiquing Qissa, challenges the social man—the Governor asks the two, symbolises the paradigms and oppressive norms of the time and cul- his advisor what should be conflicted relationship institutions, challenging ture it is set in: the medieval done. Qazwini suggests between humans and na- power at all levels. Often caliphate of Baghdad. The studying the beast. To study ture, known and unknown, protagonist is Governor the merman, they pair him civilised and wild. with a slave girl and so the cross-species lovers become Qissas tend to be un- the centre of the narrative. derstood as legends, myths, fairy tales, fables, parables In the tale, we see how a and allegories. As such, this deeply-rooted patriarchy al- Qissa includes many magi- lows men to be leaders and cal elements from the pages administrators, researchers of a ‘book of power’ which and writers, philosophers presents demons from and thinkers; while women Islamic fabulist folk-stories are relegated to the role of to English readers. In doing sex slaves. The female pro- so, the writer offers us a tagonist is fiery and defiant, mythology we are largely expressing desire and lust, unfamiliar with. In the end, yes, but this only makes you feel satisfied, but also her more of an outcast. Her curious. You feel you want healthy sexual appetite is to read more of Farooqi. n seen as depraved, wanton —Shazia Omar

LEISURE CINEMA Ghosts of Horrors Past Netflix’s Ghost Stories is slicker than its Indian horror predecessors, and that’s only half the problem W hat strange, secret acts many production designers, cinematog- working with relatively unknown actors of violence have you committed, just so raphers and sound designers working and enthusiastic technicians. Films you could feel normal?NareshTIGEJariwalaR Those acts are the sub- for directors Zoya Akhtar, Anurag like Purana Mandir (Ancient Temple, ject of horror films, which re-read the book of human history as a catalogue of Kashyap, Dibakar Banerjee and Karan 1984), Cheekh (Scream, 1985) and inhuman cruelty—psychic and physical, from the self-inflicted and suicidal to Johar, a brackish aesthetic at odds with Khooni Murda (Killer Corpse, 1989), the murderous and genocidal. In hor- ror, the smooth skin of daily reality is the confidently maximalist sound-and- were beloved by young and working- revealed to be riddled with wounds that only spread and grow. The best horror light show of the industry in which they class audiences across India. Some, films tear those stitches open one by one, slowly letting the living rot of the all cut their teeth. So, instead, they pull despite playing mostly in second-run past into the air of the present. Then, just after midnight, that latched door for inspiration on a range of terrific theatres and ramshackle video parlours, at the end of the hallway finally creaks open, and something pounces. sources: Alfred Hitchcock, Brian De were major box-office hits. At the same Netflix’s anthology horror film Palma, Hitchcock by way of De Palma, time, the films were targeted for their Ghost Stories has plenty of creaking doors, not just at the end of hallways, the films of the French extreme, Darren graphic violence by the government— but leading up to attics and into hospital rooms, with something always taking Aronofsky’s Black Swan, Roman Polan- they could take years to be cleared by shape in dead silence on the other side— heaving itself across the floor, breathing ski’s Rosemary’s Baby, Neil Marshall’s the state-run censor board or be banned heavily, or, with a walking stick, thud- ding ever closer. The clammy calm of The Descent and Bong Joon-ho’s Memo- altogether. These films were also Ghost Stories is skilfully mounted by the ries of Murder, among others. derided by critics as inept imitations of The biggest shock here, though, is American and European horror films, what Ghost Stories doesn’t reference, but and perceived by commentators within is haunted by all the same. the Indian industry to be threatening During the 1980s, the Bombay Hindi cinema’s precarious hold on cul- film industry produced a tural respectability. As the wave of horror movies about Ghost Stories industry transformed into bloodsucking witches, deadly has little its celebrated contempo- curses and rapacious were- rary avatar, the horror wave wolves. A few prolific produc- wildness and, dissipated. ers made dozens of films on despite being shoestring budgets by shoot- completely In Ghost Stories, ing in Bombay’s abandoned uncensored, Akhtar, Banerjee, Kashy- mills and colonial mansions, is quite tame ap, and Johar seem, at first, to come titillatingly close WATCHLIST PISAASU IT Siddharth (played by A group of bullied chi Naga) is haunted by the dren come together t ghost of a young girl who destroy a shape-shif he was unable to save monster who disguise in an accident. Directed himself as an evil clow by Mysskin, this Tamil This Stephen King horror film uses the adaptation is a story tropes of the genre only steely grit, yes, but fi to subvert them. of terrifying horror. HOTSTAR NETFLIX

TERROR STRIKES (from top) Janhvi Kapoor; Vijay Varma; Mrunal Thakur; and Sobhita Dhulipala in Ghost Stories to reviving the spectre of Bombay horror,NareshTIGEJariwalaR here channeling the hairy beasts of Rajkumar Kohli’s Jaani Dushman, there sampling the synthesiser score from the Ramsay Brothers’ Saamri. Occasionally, Ghost Stories outpaces Bombay horror to congeal into genuinely new visceral shocks. Netflix has called the film- makers of Ghost Stories “vi- sionaries” (including, daringly, Johar), but for truly demented visions, consider what the 1980’s wave offered us—serial killers bloodily cutting off love songs, werewolves pouncing on wedding celebrations and demonic curses turning child- bearing women into pustulating corpses. Ghost Stories has little of such wildness and, despite being completely uncensored, is quite tame. Film after film is about dead or dying women, a creepy old woman in her decrepit apartment, a young woman in a lavish mansion (only Banerjee’s film, about cannibalistic goons in a scorched small town, gambles with topi- cality). Ghost Stories resolves the respectability problem of Bombay horror by taking a gentrify- ing, big-budget blowtorch to its rough surfaces, and adding beautiful faces, gorgeous spaces, crisp digital visual effects and sound designs. Prestige does its own kind of violence—it denies its own past. n —Kartik Nair A QUIET PLACE The world is overrun by creatures who hunt by sound. A family—which in- cludes a pregnant mother— tries to survive in silence. The eerie quiet makes you clutch your seat before you jump out of it. AMAZON PRIME

PHOTOCOURTESYHIMANSHUUCHANDRAKANTTSHETH INaresGh JEariwaRla QA CAMTEURRANAIRNOGUTNHDE After decades of facing the camera, Waheeda Rehman decided to go behind it and shoot wildlife. The hobby, she says, keeps the excitement alive Q. What made you take up photography— and wildlife photography in particular? I started a long time ago. I was always passionate about taking photographs. I liked capturing the moment, but never learnt how to photograph properly. I’m fond of wildlife, nature and landscapes. Six or seven years ago, I met [photographer] Himanshu Sheth, who started taking me on safaris. That’s how the whole wildlife photography started. Q. What was it like being in the wild? It was so exciting! You see animals from such close quarters. I was in an open jeep and missed a heartbeat when I saw a lioness looking straight at me, but that’s part of the process. I do like excitement. Q. What was it like to see your work exhibited? I was not very keen, but we are a group of 24 photographers and we did it for a cause. I never wanted others to think I have become a great photographer. People have been asking me to do a solo show because I do have a lot of stuff, but I want to first be happy looking at my work before I show it to others. Q. When acting in films, did you ever want to get behind the camera? There used to be a joke on the sets that if an artist wants to look through the camera, he or she would have to treat the entire crew to Coca-Cola, and invariably, I always wanted to see the shot. I wanted to see the composition and light, but I didn’t think then that I would take up photography as a profession or hobby. Q. I believe you’re next thinking of taking up scuba diving… There’s so much to learn in the world. We should do things which keep us alive and kicking. —with Shreevatsa Nevatia 68 Volume XLV Number 3; For the week January 14-20, 2020, published on every Friday Total number of pages 76 (including cover pages)

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DIGITAL EDITION THANK YOU FOR READING RNINO.28587/75JREGISTEREDNO.DL(ND)-11/6068/2018-20;a U(C)-88/2018-20;r FARIDABAD/05/2020-22iwRLICENSEDTOPOSTWITHOUTPREPAYMENTala OC The Design Special WHY JNU IS IN TURMOIL www.indiatoday.in JANUARY 20, 2020 `60 RNNODELENG/2005/15332*NotorsaeTobe TINaresGhE c rcu a ed f ee w th nd a Today n Mumba De h & NCR Chenna Banga ore Ko kata Hyderabad and Chand grah Supp ement o nd a Today ssue da ed January 20 2020 A CAA protester at Jantar Mantar, Delhi WHO IS (NOT) A CITIZEN? THE TRUTH ABOUT CAA / NPR / NRC PLEASE CONTINUE TO YOUR FREE MAGAZINE THE GOOD LIFE JANUARY 2020 TRENDS 2020 The Future Beckons FASHION MARRIES SUSTAINABILITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP; TRIPPING ON BOURBON; PRE-OWNED LUXURY CARS RACE AHEAD; TOP TECH TRENDS FOR THE YEAR

*Not for sale. To be THE GOOD LIFE Mumbai, Delhi & NCR, rabad and Chandigrah. JANUARY 2020 dated January 20, 2020”. TRENDS NareshTIGEJariwalaR 2020 FASHION MARRIES SUSTAINABILITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP; TRIPPING ON BOURBON; PRE-OWNED LUXURY CARS RACE AHEAD; TOP TECH TRENDS FOR THE YEAR

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Editor-in-Chief Aroon PurieNareshTIGEJariwalaR IN A WORLD where disruption and innovation are almost used Group Editorial Director Raj Chengappa interchangeably, erring on the side of probability and predictability Group Creative Editor Nilanjan Das does seem a little brazen but this is what the January issue of Spice— Group Photo Editor Bandeep Singh Trends 2020—has in store. Much like the year’s namesake, cricket Senior Editor Chumki Bharadwaj counterpart, Spice predicts a racy, expensive and dramatic year full Editorial Consultant Jahnavi Chakravarty of promise and punch. Stay abreast of what’s in, what’s indelible and Sr. Art Director Sanjay Piplani what’s incredible. Whether it’s a chance to travel to the moon in a Art Director Angshuman De monogrammed, gold and Swarovski-studded vessel or kitchen gizmos Associate Art Director Rajesh Angira that talk you into becoming a more calorie-conscious cook or to Chief Photo Researcher Prabhakar Tiwari luxury vehicles that are straight out of a Sci-Fi movie, only sleeker and Principal Photo Researcher Saloni Vaid smarter, our trend casters span the luxury spectrum from around the Senior Photo Researcher Shubhrojit Brahma country and the world. Production Harish Aggarwal (Chief of Production), Naveen Gupta Alessandro Sartori, the creative director at Italian luxury fashion house, Ermenegildo Zegna, writes exclusively for Spice on the Chief Operating Officer Manoj Sharma changing face of masculinity and how it has contoured not just Associate Publisher (Impact) Anil Fernandes clothing silhouettes but lifestyles. Steering clear of straightjacketed mind-sets, he talks of evolving trends that travel worldwide and must Senior General Manager (Impact) appeal to a Korean rapper as much as to an American banker. Jitendra Lad (West) Walking hand in glove with inclusive style, Sartori emphasises the need to live responsibly; a sentiment echoed by Liam Maher, General Managers global creative director of ECCO, a Danish premium footwear brand renowned for its sustainable craftsmanship. Maher insists Upendra Singh (Bangalore) that sustainability is not just the flavour of the month or year but Kaushiky Gangulie (East) has been the flavour of the millennium. The idea is not just to save the environment, but to maximise value, he says, reiterating why Group Chief Marketing Officer fashion represents a distinct opportunity to marry both sustainability and craftsmanship in a way that could generously accommodate Vivek Malhotra the “slightly less sexy idea of durability.” For Spice, he decodes why environmentally-conscious sustainable craftsmanship qualifies as the Volume 16 Number 1; January 2020 trend du jour for 2020. Copyright Living Media India Ltd. All rights reserved throughout the world. Reproduction in any manner is prohibited. Spice’s round-up of trends coasts high on spirits as Bourbon tops Printed and published by Manoj Sharma on behalf of the popularity charts second only to Scotch with a legion Living Media India Limited. Printed at Thomson Press India Limited, of merry millennials; a rum resurgence is predicted nudged by 18-35 Milestone, Delhi Mathura Road, Faridabad-121007, (Haryana) high-end Caribbean rums such as Facundo Paraiso, El Dorado 25, and A-9, Industrial Complex, Maraimalai Nagar, District Kancheep- Appleton 21 and Ron Zacapa Royal, and surprisingly Vintage wines uram-603209, (Tamil Nadu.). Published at K-9, Connaught Circus, New finds an appreciative, if unlikely, audience among the young Delhi-110001. Editorial/Corporate Office: Living Media India Ltd., India and the resourceful. Today Group Mediaplex, FC-8, Sector-16A, Film City, Noida - 201301. Editor: Raj Chengappa Whether it’s the growing trend of pre-owned luxury cars that’s India Today does not take responsibility for returning unsolicited gaining mileage or the anti-trend that beauty maven Paula Begoun— publication material. whom Oprah Winfrey, calls the “Cosmetics Cop”—writes about, we court the covetable with as much passion as the controversial. It’s all e-mail your letters to: [email protected] about serenading the high notes in luxury. (Aroon Purie) INDIA TODAY SPICE 1 JANUARY 2020

MIPLhAotNoVgrUaKpMhIRbyOVIC JANUARY 2020 1 *NotforsaeTobe TINaresGh JEariwaRla 1. ALESSANDRO SARTORI 3 umba De h & NCR ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA bad and Chand grah 5 ated January 20, 2020 After more than a decade of design experience at Z Zegna 7 and Berluti, Sartori, a graduate of Istituto Marangoni Milano, now heads Ermenegildo Zegna Group as artistic director. THE GOOD LIFE JANUARY 2020 2 2. PAULA BEGOUN TRENDS FOUNDER, PAULA’S CHOICE 2020 A former journalist, Begoun is an American talk radio host and author. Her skincare brand, Paula’s Choice, is founded FASHION MARRIES SUSTAINABILITY AND on scientific and research -driven products CRAFTSMANSHIP; TRIPPING ON BOURBON; PRE-OWNED LUXURY CARS RACE AHEAD; 3. DINAZ MADHUKAR TOP TECH TRENDS FOR THE YEAR EXECUTIVE VP, DLF LUXURY RETAIL & HOSPITALITY With over 24 years of experience in the luxury hospitality sector, Madhukar has been credited with the launch of The Chanakya an artisanally curated luxury mall with a 4 contemporary brand mix. 4. KARISHMA KIRPALANI TRAVEL WRITER Calling herself Globejamun, Kirpalani enjoys jumping off planes, bridges and cliffs. She likes to spend her travels trying out cooking classes or eating with the locals. 5. JATIN AHUJA FOOD WRITER One of the first players in the pre-owned luxury automotive space, Ahuja founded Big Boy Toyz in 2009. 6. PHORUM DALAL 6 JOURNALIST A lifestyle journalist who quit her job to travel and live the anxious life of a freelancer, Dalal has a thing for quirky headlines, airport transits, quaint cafés and catching the sunrise on her travels. 7. LIAM MAHER GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, ECCO Calling himeslf a tinker, tailor, beggarman, and thief, Maher has provided creative direction for several global brands like Timberland collaborated with several design-centric brands. 8 8. NICOLAS LANE OENOLOGIST, DOM PÉRIGNON Hailing from New Zealand, Lane admits that his passion for the terroirs of France developed when he first came to the country in 1997. At Dom Pérignon, Nicholas works clowith tasting, assembling and refining wines. 16 COVER STORY Your guide to all things hip and haute COVER BY NILANJAN DAS COVER IMAGE COURTESY ECCO Shoes

SHUTTERSTOCKTIGER JANUARY 2020 Naresh Jariwala RAISE A TOAST These trends will rule over the new decade INDIA TODAY SPICE 3 JANUARY 2020

NareshTIGEJariwalaR JANUARY 2020 THE GOOD LIFE The hottest places to eat right now CULTURE TRIP History stands guard at Welcomhotel’s new Amritsar property INDIA TODAY SPICE 4 JANUARY 2020

JANUARY 2020 NareshTIGEJariwalaRHISTORY ON A PLATE Eat, drink and make merry in Jerusalem TWICE AS NICE Rolex brings together two global music giants LAND OF DREAMS Meghalaya beckons from behind the clouds LETTER OM THESHUTTERSTOCKLK EDITOR-IN-CHIEF INDIA TODAY SPICE 5 JANUARY 2020

NareshTIGEJariwalaR HOTSHEET AUCTION Strokes of Genius Art is a powerful legacy and for true connoisseur, nothing quite compares with the thrill of acquiring a coveted piece from a prized collection. During New York’s annual Asian Art Week in March 2020, Christie’s will announce an additional single-owner auction, A Lasting Engagement: The Jane and Kito de Boer Collection, offering more than 150 works of Indian art from the prestigious collection of Jane and Kito de Boer. This is Christie’s largest and most important single owner sale of South Asian modern and contemporary art in the past few years. A live auction, which will take place on March 18, will be accompanied by an online sale, offering additional works from the collec- tion between March 13-20. A selection of highlights, including The Animal by Ganesh Pyne (image above), will be available to preview at the Oberoi Hotel in New Delhi on January 31 and February 1, coinciding with the India Art Fair. Speaking about their collection, Jane and Kito de Boer said, “We purchased our first paintings on impulse. These were an emotional response, reflecting our excitement at the vibrancy and energy of India’s culture.” For more information log on to www.christies.com COMPILED BY JAHNAVI CHAKRAVARTY INDIA TODAY SPICE 6 JANUARY 2020

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Legacy of Heritage This beautifully crafted gold necklace with traditional Indian motifs from Narayan Jewel- lers will never go out of style. What better way to shine on your wedding day? Price On request Availability Brand boutiques NareshTIGEJariwalaR Floral Fantasy The Czars Shine Down A multi-layered polki necklace like this one by Rajesh Inspired by the rich history of Russian jewellery, this Tulsiani will elevate an heirloom sari. Pair it with a Bibi van der Velden stacked ring is a one-of-a-kind black suit if you want to dress edgy. piece. The Memento Mori ring is symbolic of the Price On request perpetual cycle of life and death and a surefire conver- Availability Brand boutique sation starter. Price On request Availability Brand boutiqu CoGloruerenMe Waves of Joy A contemporary take A piece that draws attention in the subtlest way, this on the traditional slim bracelet from Her Story sweeps around the wrist with its scalloped shape and tulip shaped diamonds. jhumka design, these earrings by Latique Price On request feature kundan and Availability Brand boutiques enamel work with a splash of green to DIA TODAY SPICE 8 JANUARY 2020 keep it interesting. Price On request Availability Brand boutiques

HOTSHEET MAKEUP Stay LitNareshTIGEJariwalaR Red Hot No matter how long the party ran, Charlotte Tilbury’s red this baby from Pat McGrath will hide lipstick is dedicated to almost all your sins. The ChromaLuxe and named after her Hi-Lite Cream has pearlescent mother, Patsy. This particles that reflect light to lend ruby red colour will add instant glamour a glowy sheen. Price $60 to any look. Price `3,000 Availability www.netaporter.com Availability Brand boutiques and online All Eyes on You Go for Gold The party season calls for some shim- mer and shine. Try out some exciting A little gold goes a long way. This eye looks with Kiko Milano’s Magical satiny soft gold shimmer from Bobbi Bown’s Holiday Collection can be used Holiday eyeshadow palette. It’s got the perfect balance of matte and in a number of ways. Dab on your shiny shades to see you through the eyelids, mix with foundation or pat some onto the centre of lips and you’re holidays. Price `3,390 party ready. Availability Brand boutiques Price On request Availability Brand boutiques and online and online No Faults A lightweight full cover- age foundation might seem like an oxymoron of sorts but Smashbox’s 24 Hour foundation ticks all the boxes for a flawless face. Price `3,300 Availability www.nykaa.com and Sephora stores INDIA TODAY SPICE 9 JANUARY 2020

HOTSHEET BEAUTY Skin Guardian Camomile’s soothing properties make it a skincare favourite. The Body Shop’s Camomile cleansing range calms, soothes and pampers skin without stripping it dry. Price `2,600 Availability Brand stores and online Essential CareNareshTIGEJariwalaR Rolling Stones Infuse your winter skincare routine with For ages, crystals were the goodness of pure herbs with Forest considered to have healing Essential’s Ojas beauty balm. This sooth- properties. Ras Luxury Oils’ rose quartz opens the heart, ing night cream protects against the promotes self love and inner harsh dryness of the cold while making healing. The roller increases micro circulation, relaxes facial skin supple. muscles and improves skin tone Price `3,800 Availability Brand boutiques Price `2,350 www.nykaa.com and online Mane Tamer Enriched with the soothing oil of camellia, Innisfree’s shower oil takes the pain out of winter baths. Oh, and it smells pretty divine too. Price `1,200 Availability Brand stores and www.nykaa.com Sleep Healing A beauty serum for hair that works while you sleep, Kerastase’s 8 Hr Magic Night Serum claims to repair, mois- turise and replenish hair dur- ing your beauty zzz’s. Price `2,560 Availability www.beautysource.in INDIA TODAY SPICE 10 JANUARY 2020

OTSHEET GIFTING Party Ready Alable’s designer duds are the perfect gift for the woman who likes to keep it stylish and contempo- rary. We love this little retro inspired polka dot- ted number. Price On request Availability Brand boutique NareshTIGEJariwalaR Gilded Words Passion for Fashion Lamy’s gold embossed pens Christian Louboutin’s patchwork slides are as make a great gift for those avant garde as they are funky. Topped off with who believe in the power pointed studs,this one is for a man who isn’t afraid of words. to keep it very stylish. Price On request Price On request Availability Brand boutique Availability Brand boutiques Figures of Joy Sunny Days Lladro has immortalised Gift these sunglasses by Dolce and Gabbana to this adorable Jack Russel that travel buff in your life. Featuring mirrored terrier in porcelain. Part of lenses in a funky rimless aviator shape, these the Holiday collection, this figurine is the ideal gift for will certainly keep the sun at bay. Price `40,343 the house proud. Price On request Availability www.luisaviaroma.com Availability Brand INDIA TODAY SPICE 11 JANUARY 2020 boutique

HOTSHEET HOME SMcuirlapcteled A sculpture adds interest to a space and makes for a great conversation starter. We love this thought- provoking piece by Blue Sky Designs. Price On request Availability [email protected] NareshTIGEJariwalaR Book It Vintage Appeal A pair of interesting A chair upholstered in floral fabric bookends can break the gives the room a character. Beyond monotony of shelves lined Design’s classically designed chair has with books. Ansavv’s ram an antiqued feel, yet feels right in a head-shaped ones are a modern home. good pick. Price On request Price On request Availability Availability Brand boutique Brand boutique Top Table A bureau can solve storage issues as well as brighten up a staid corner or wall. Ashley Homes’ hand-crafted cabinet in a wood distressed fin- ish will make an ideal addition to your living room. Price On request Availability Brand boutique in Mumbai Pretty Nooks Hèrmosa’s retro inspired chest is the ideal addition to your classic-themed library or bedroom. Price On request Availability Brand boutique INDIA TODAY SPICE 12 JANUARY 2020

HOTSHEET IT BAGS Weaving Dreams The Le Petit Panier by Perrin Paris is the bag to grab this season. Its interesting design adds an element of drama and the neutral colour works with most palettes. Price On request Availability www.modaoperandi.com NareshTIGEJariwalaRCity Gal A smaller version of Balenciaga’s iconic City bag, this one features signature touches of the cult-classic original. Price On request Availability Brand boutiques Being Beastly New Year, New You This understated cross body bag by Coach is a must-have. Bottega Veneta celebrates The black and grey wild beast Chinese New Year with print makes it a versatile buy. this fiery orange bag in the Price On request signature weave. The knot Availability detail breaks the monoto- ny, keeping it from looking Brand boutiques too slouchy. aSrprayrykoleur Price On request Angel clutch by de Availability is a study in subtle Brand boutiques r craft. The evening ch in black comes ed with handpicked diamonds. rice On request Availability iq Luxury and Elitify INDIA TODAY SPICE 13 JANUARY 2020

NareshTIGEJariwalaR HOTSHEET T R AV E L On the Move There’s nothing more annoying than your phone running out of battery on a long haul flight. Keep Native Union’s Jesmonite wireless charger handy to be connected at all times. Price £154 Availability www.mrporter.com Chasing Rainbows Never lose your cool with this Fern handheld fan. Handcrafted from birchwood and a cotton voile painting, this vibrant fan can be tucked away in your purse with ease. Price On request Availability www.netaporter.com Subtle Statement This Valextra holdall is the understated man’s go-to bag. Handcrafted and subtle, this bag is meant to make a statement, albeit a quiet one. Price On request Availability www.farfetch.com Sunshine Kid Luggage in a standout colour is a surefire way to make a statement while travelling. We love Off-White’s canary yellow wheelie. Price €725 Availability www.offwhite.com INDIA TODAY SPICE 14 JANUARY 2020

NareshTIGEJariwalaRFETISH Foot Fetish With exclusivity as the hallmark of true luxury, designer Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur’s bespoke service now extends to handcrafted shoes as well. This offers the fastidious style maven the perfect opportunity to put your best foot forward, quite literally. Customised footwear gets a leg up with this special collection of shoes that distinguishes itself with a unique quilting detail for comfort. Meticulously handcrafted in Jodhpur and styled in Italy, it adds the perfect accent to his heritage clothing line, synonymous with the Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur brand. The handmade shoes are a first of its kind from the luxury brand and rejuvenates an age-old tradition of bespoke accessories that date back to the 1920s, when the erstwhile rulers and aristocrats preferred the indulgence of custom-fit leather shoes to match a bespoke wardrobe. After all, what’s luxury if not a hall pass to help you stand out. Price on request; Availablity Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur boutiques across India. INDIA TODAY SPICE 15 JANUARY 2020

NareshTIGEJariwalaRCOVER STORY TRENDS I LEAD ESSAY LUXURY’S EVOLVING PALETTE CONSUMERS ARE THE NEW CURATORS OF THE LUXURY LANDSCAPE, AS THE SPOTLIGHT SHIFTS FROM CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION TO SELF INDULGENCE. By DINAZ MADHUKAR EXECUTIVE VP, DLF LUXURY RETAIL & HOSPITALITY CONSCIOUS CHOICES Appreciation for craftsmanship such as that of Berluti is on the rise (above); Couturier Sabyasachi’s line of Nilaya wallpapers (right)

HOLISTIC LUXURY Brands like Zegna offer 360 degree customisation (right); Designer Manish Malhotra’s foray into bridal jewellery (extreme right) NareshTIGEJariwalaR T he Indian luxury landscape is undergoing a drastic in-store Made-To-Measure service. All a connoisseur has shift; from conspicuous consumption to self- to do is get an appointment for a deep dive into customisa- indulgence; from the intent of owning luxury to tion, and a suit as per your exact specifications will be tailored that of experiencing it. While initially, it was the after choosing from over 500 fabrics, personalised with the big brands that were entering India; the past decade has seen wearer’s name on a Su Misura label, with fittings set up pre- a rise of niche brands marking their presence. emptively for any changes that might crop up. India has witnessed that change in the consumer’s un- Additionally, a multitude of homegrown luxury brands, too derstanding of the luxury market. For instance, the nuances are venturing into new design categories especially couturiers of a brand like Berluti is appreciated now and accepted more like Anita Dongre, Sabyasachi, Tarun Tahiliani, and Manish easily, than it would have been five years ago. More than the Malhotra who are innovating and expanding their product brand or the product, it is the holistic representation that a portfolio to explore new horizons to engage and expand their customer is inclined to return for, whether it’s heritage, crafts- audience. At the same time, new brands are looking to invest manship, individuality, authenticity or the connect. The con- in the country, proving it to be a positive environment for the sumer’s sense of exclusivity is defined by “inclusive exclusivity.” retail business in India right now. Hence, we see the current spotlight shifting towards designing ‘white-glove’ coveted experiences, making luxury more be- Today’s consumers trust word of mouth over companies’ spoke rather than a trend-based choice each season. advertisement. Hence, affiliations with the right evangelist or partner is the need of the hour for effective brand integration With the emergence of new-age affluent buyers, who are to consciously guide, educate, satisfy and sustain the target socially aware and conscious of the multiple offerings, it is im- audience. These evangelists are micro-influencers who are perative to emphasise meticulous detailing on not just product committed customers of a brand and host immersive in-store choices but building personal relationships with the audience events that offer glimpses into the brand’s DNA and creative through immersive storytelling and customising brand in- vision. Real consumers are, therefore, the new “curators” of novation to generate new synergies that excite both old as well this luxury landscape. as new patrons. Even while maintaining control of the brand narrative, marketers are opening up dialogue with consumers Social media is the biggest tool to have evolved today. It and user-generated content is driving brands to adopt the no- is powerful and democratic enabling brands to connect with tion of “consumer as creator” in its broader brand strategy. millions of new and potential users with merely a click of a button. We at DLF too, leverage these platforms to have Zegna’s store relaunch in December 2019 at DLF Empo- real-time guest dialogues, share insights into brand legacies, rio is one such example that houses all its verticals from accumulate feedback and direct this online traffic to brick and Ermenegildo Zegna XXX, luxury leisure and formal wear, mortar formats because the consumer lives in a digital global textile and leather accessories to the Z Zegna line. Taking environment. Luxury consumption remains largely experien- personalisation to a new level, the brand has introduced its tial and therefore hugely tangible and sensorial. INDIA TODAY SPICE 17 JANUARY 2020

COVER STORY TRENDS I SUSTAINABILITY ECHOES ofFthUe TURE Sustainability will n out of fashion. Here By LIAM MAHER GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, ECCO NareshTIGEJariwalaR

FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY. THE FLAVOUR-OF- FASHION THE-MONTH HAS BEEN THE FLAVOUR (Clockwise from OF-THE-MILLENNIUM top) Brands like ECCO, Hans It’s a message that has been set to auto-repeat Wegner, Rains, for the last few years. Long percolating themes Nike, Mismo, like global warming and polluted oceans hit George Jensen, mainstream consciousness at the very least Bang & Olufsen with the release of An Inconvenient Truth by and Patagonia are Al Gore over a decade ago and the introduc- marrying design tion of soda-bottle fleece by Patagonia and with sustainable Regrind from Nike over a quarter-century ago. practices Research on what moves young consumers NareshTIGEJariwalaRhas identified both authenticity and sustain- ability as ranking high as drivers of purchase- preference today. These and many related elements have combined and refracted creat- ing an undeniable new lens through which to view design, production, distribution and mes- saging across all industries. On a flight back from Zurich, I flipped through several Luf- thansa catalogue pages promoting the airline’s Upcyling Collection. You literally can’t ignore it anymore. It’s become ubiquitous. THAT’S TODAY But we sometimes forget that similar forces could be felt going back much further. Back to and through the counter-culture of the 60’s and on even to the earliest days of the Indus- trial Revolution. Few remember concepts like Benjamin Law’s invention of “Shoddy” and “Mungo” in 1813 where scraps and off-cuts of woolwaste were reprocessed into new cloth. Not to save the environment, but to maximise value. But although these literal snippets of history may not be well known, we do associate the older traditions of the fashion trade with generally higher levels of quality and craftsmanship. For something to be “made the old fashioned way” is for something to be well-crafted. We are reassured when we see the role these traditions play in our favourite brands from premium all the way to luxury. A push in one direction toward new material innovation ensures that the underlying pallet of fashion remains fresh, progressive and sur- prising. Today sustainability is a cornerstone of new material development and so it weaves itself into that pallet. This is exciting for the future of the planet, but also for the future look and feel of fashion. A push in the other

COVER STORY TRENDS I SUSTAINABILITY NareshTIGEJariwalaR relative to both sustainability and craftsman- MINDFUL LUXURY direction toward old-world craftsmanship ship. Fashion has always promised these two An increasing number and quality ensures an element of something contradictory benefits. On the one hand to be noble and indelible that can assert a stabilising utterly new and of-the-moment (a la mode) of luxe brands are dignity at the core of all the newness. and on the other to manifest the highest levels looking at both of craftsmanship, quality and the slightly less THE HOLY GRAIL: SIMULTANEOUSLY sexy idea of durability. Although this seems sustainability and “TIMELESS” AND “MODERN” like self-contradiction, we must have faith that durability in their the combination is actually possible and we Whether or not there was particular ex- must put our hearts and minds to searching products citement and/or concern regarding levels for this balance. This is because when an item of sustainability, today one of the highest achieves the modern as well as the timeless, achievements in design —namely to embody it fulfills the true original promise of fashion. both “timelessness” and “modernity” at the At ECCO, we try to work within the Danish same time—represents a distinct opportunity modern tradition where we find lots of inspi- ration and decades of examples of designs that have achieved this balance. Some are living heritage examples from Hans Wegner, Georg Jensen and Bang & Olufsen and others offer contemporary exam- ples from Designers Remix and Bruuns Ba- zaar to Norse Projects, Rains and Mismo. For us it helps to stay focussed on the signature we find most authentic; inspired-by-nature, truth-to-materials and versatile-function. Honestly, in the hands of each new generation of designers, we feel like these have always constituted the main tenets of good design beyond the cultural borders of Denmark. Beyond this, I think it’s crucial to focus on perhaps modest but stable and scalable steps toward higher levels of sustainability. Instead of trying the knock- the-topic-out-of-the- ballpark with a single gigantic idea, to identify meaningful areas within real-time processes where incremental changes can potentially delivery huge impact. Since we operate the entire supply-chain we’re in the enviable posi- tion of understanding our processes in a holis- tic way. At ECCO, in the case of DritanTM, we were able to identify a key stage in the process; the stabilising of leather through tanning, and figure out how to make it substantially more sustainable—reducing water consumption and lowering both waste management process and solid waste output levels. If each of us take this approach we can’t help but make a positive impact collectively. INDIA TODAY SPICE 20 JANUARY 2020

COVER STORY TRENDS I FASHION “MASCULINITY IS A STATE OF MIND” NareshTIGEJariwalaR The rules of fashion are changing and so is the definition of masculinity The lifestyle we are envisioning is not only about a By ALESSANDRO SARTORI clothing silhouette, it’s about a persona, someone who has his own life, feelings and emotions. Today’s man is ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, not one man, he is a cluster of different characters and ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA people from every part of the world. Last September we launched a new brand campaign “What does it mean to be a man today?” to open an authentic conversation on the meaning of modern mas- culinity in the 21st century. We do not want to define what the man has to be or what masculinity is; we don’t want to be pretentious. Instead, the idea is to initiate an open conversation because of the varying diversity of feelings, emotions and types of people so as to open the question to everyone and include different answers. These conversations are fairly common within our team re- garding our clients and also about our friends and ambassadors: what are they thinking and how they live and express their mascu- linity? Change is the only constant The world we live in is fluid and ever changing. So, too, is the con- cept of masculinity. The notion of masculinity as something steely and unambiguous, is a staid and static concept, which no longer works—if it ever did. We believe that masculinity is a state of mind. One that takes on different meanings and includes many qualities, both expected and otherwise: courtesy, politeness, patience, vul- nerability, wisdom, and even eccentricity. This mindset is reflected in how we design new collections. Today, trends are travelling worldwide in one second and it is much easier to follow them than was possible even two or five years ago…to know and assimilate how Korean rappers or Ameri- can bankers for that matter, are dressing and behaving and moving around. INDIA TODAY SPICE 21 JANUARY 2020

NareshTIGEJariwalaR MODERN CONCEPTS Men today refuse to fit into a stereotypical box, choosing instead to be their own person

COVER STORY TRENDS I FASHION New Initiatives People in the creative industry are looking to a new direction and want to create fresh combina- tions that open a lot of new possibilities. Taking tailoring fabrics into the sportswear category or vice versa, taking ideas from the world of sports- NareshTIGEJariwalaR wear into the realm of tailoring, stimulates people’s creativity. We have injected more sports and casual ele- ments into Ermenegildo Zegna keeping the elegance of tailoring and the quality of the materi- als. Luxury fabrics such as cashmere or cashmere blends and tailor-made techniques are elevating EASY ELEGANCE Garment the overshirt category to the level of clothing that are comfortable ye rather than shirting. For 2020, I also feel it is our duty as denizens elegant at the same time wor best for the modern ma of this world to live responsibly, I want to do it us- ing the creative means I have at my disposal, which extend from the materiality of fabric making, to Responding to change the exquisite technicality of tailoring to the highly We realised there was a need to create a new type of suit which is not communicative aspect of show-making. We are only a classic jacket with a classic pair of trousers made with matching working on new generations of sources, consider- fabric. Instead they are tops and bottoms created in matching fabrics, ing the value we place on recyclability as a new where the top could easily be a blouson [bomber jacket] , and/or sports source that prevents any wastage of material in the top, and on the bottom a classic pant. Or the opposite—the top could production chain. be a classic jacket worn with sports trousers—the new suit will be exactly We do not need to create something new from this type of product—a hybrid style between sport and tailoring where scratch, but can reuse and reinvent the existing, the two pieces are made with a matching fabric colour. getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, Nowadays stylish men are looking for a wardrobe that is comfortable translating traditional techniques into innovative and luxurious at the same time, informal and elegant, versa- lifetime tailoring, turning an abandoned tile and precious: a wardrobe that can be worn everyday, place into an area of creation. for informal meetings or leisure, without forgetting I’m a big fan of collecting gar- or foregoing sophistication. As a consequence of “Nowadays, stylish ments, and mixing the old with this hybrid style, pieces such as knits jackets, tai- men are looking for a the new, and of adding layers. lored outerwear and shirt jackets are becoming wardrobe that is This means that in future comfortable and luxuri- more and more important. ous, informal and elegant, collections you will see this People are clever, they want both comfort versatile and precious, trend, which will reflect what and style, so that combination is very important. and can be worn every masculinity means today. That’s why we need to keep changing, keep day, for informal There are layers that we will evolving, and listening to our customers: there’s so meetings be unveiling that are important much change in such a short time, but if you can do or for leisure” for which we are creating a new it, you win. language. INDIA TODAY SPICE 23 JANUARY 2020

TTHEECNHEWTALK The year 2020 is all about gadgets and gizmos that will make your life easier and wallets a lot lighter By SULABH PURI NareshTIGEJariwalaR ELECTRIC ENTRY Tesla might be making their India debut this year INDIA TODAY SPICE 24 JANUARY 2020

COVER STORY TRENDS I TECH You don’t have to be a die-hard cricket fan to love the sound of 2020 (twenty-twenty). And like its new-age cricket counter- part, this year is going to be fast, expensive and impactful. If you don’t stay on top of latest trends and launches you might miss a chance to travel to the moon in a spacious, monogrammed, gold and Swarovski studded vessel; or own kitchen gizmos that let you know when the food is cooked. Better yet, purchase luxury vehicles that are right out of the sci-fi movie, but look sleeker and smarter. Home appliances that talk In 2019, we saw a lot of AIs (Artificial Intelligence) coming to life like Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant on smartphones and smart speakers. So, it was only natural that this year they move into kitchens. From refrigera- tors and microwaves to smaller kitchen appliances—with the new tech these gadgets will read out recipes, help users shop for groceries and even tell them when the food is cooked in the oven. Sounds delicious doesn’t it? NareshTIGEJariwalaR It’s electric VISION 2020 As going green becomes more mainstream, it was only a matter of time for Samsung’s Family luxury brands to move towards non-bio fuel engines. This year everyone Hub smart from Mercedes to BMW to Audi is going to bring its own set of EVs (electric refrigerator (above); vehicles). The buzz is that Tesla might come to India with a slightly cheaper the Xbox Series X are version (though still expensive) by the end of 2020. These high-end luxury expected to debut EVs will have heated seats, climate control multi-channel sound system from this year smart artificial assistant and even massage seats. Some of them might even drive or park on their own. With a range of 300 km or higher, they are ideal for those who want an eco-friendly alternative and money isn’t a constraint. Space no longer the final frontier Space travel might become a reality sooner than you expect. Although Virgin Galactic was leading this area a while back, Tesla has overtaken them and are claiming that they will, sometime in 2020, send humans to moon or at least take a trip around it. Of course, this will be one expensive trip, so only those with really deep pockets will be able to make the journey. The company intends to ensure that those taking this special trip will do so in the lap of comfort with top-of-the-line gadgets and luxe interiors to keep them company. Faster and meaner gaming consoles These have been on the backfoot for some time now, as PC and mobile gaming made the most impact in 2019. But patterns are set to change in 2020. Both Sony and Microsoft have announced that they will bring their respective new gaming consoles to the market this year. Sony will release the PlayStation 5 whereas Microsoft will launch Xbox Series X. The regular UHD TV these days supports up to 4K resolution, however, these consoles will support a whopping 8K graphics. The exteriors as well as interiors will get a complete overhaul and what users will get are meaner looking machines with blitzkrieg performance. Sulabh Puri is the editor of www.gadgetbridge.com INDIA TODAY SPICE 25 JANUARY 2020

NareshTIGEJariwalaRCOVER STORY Illustration: SIDDHANT JUMDETRENDS I SKINCARE ATTrnheteni-d Five new-research ideas that bust the myth of reigning beauty trends By PAULA BEGOUN FOUNDER, PAULA'S CHOICE Oprah Winfrey named me the Cosmet- ics Cop when I went on her show for my book Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me. Over the years I’ve written 21 books on beauty. It all started because of my own struggles with acne and eczema. I spent years looking for products that would help but noth- ing did. Later in life my major in University was sci- ence and after graduation I eventually worked as a reporter at a TV station in Seattle, Washington. That combination of science and investigative reporting fuelled my passion to learn what published research and medical text books about skin proved what could and couldn’t work for skin. Myths and misleading information hurts skin and often causes the very problems you want to avoid or repair. Beauty begins with truth—with facts, anything else cheats your skin and your health. Here are five facts you need to know so you can take the best care of your skin possible. INDIA TODAY SPICE 26 JANUARY 2020