Wanderlust_UK_-_December_2019

⊳ conservation, these big cats are still In the jungle (clockwise from this) being persecuted. “Recently I found A peacock displaying at one dying in a snare,” Amith told Kishanpur; swamp deer; me. “It was the unhappiest moment a mugger crocodile at of my life. But I saw two tigers Katarniaghat; hornbills at yesterday. You will find the experience Kishanpur; on safari at here very different to sanctuaries Dudhwa National Park; like Ranthambhore (in Rajasthan) Amith Bangre, the resident where 10 vehicles might be watching naturalist at Jaagir Lodge one tiger. These forests are remote Naresh Jariwala* and parts of them inaccessible so sightings are very special.” “We leave tomorrow at 5am for Dudhwa,” he announced, before departing for bed. Making tracks Bleary-eyed next morning I mechanically shovelled down a cinnamon pastry and we left in the cold dark. I wrapped up in a poncho with a flask of citrusy tea in the open-roofed vehicle. Sugarcane quivered like porcupine quills in the pre-dawn fuzziness while smoke from burning cowpats rose from within otherwise darkened villages. An hour later, we were entering Dudhwa National Park as the early sunbeams diffused through a skulking mist to star-burst through the sal forest canopy. Sal is a valuable timber tree of the Lower Himalayas and between ramrod straight stems rising 25m high, silhouetted hornbills glided with measured wingbeats. Dudhwa gained recognition as a tiger reserve in the late 1980s due to the efforts of conservationist Billy Arjan Singh. This former hunter- turned-gamekeeper championed India’s big cats throughout his lifetime and reintroduced both tigers and leopards into Dudhwa. He did so against a history of tens of thousands of tigers being shot during colonial times by big game hunters across India. Near Satiana Gate Amith showed me where a Nepalese rajah hunting on elephant back had been mauled by a tiger. The gate is named after the act of sati, self-immolation by fire, performed by the rajah’s wife on his funeral pyre. Shortly we reached the park headquarters and while Amith collected game-drive permits I said hello to some very underemployed safari elephants. These domesticated elephants carry visitors to see 50 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

INDIA another star in Dudhwa’s firmament, probably asleep. So we drove back Asian one-horned rhinos. These to Jaagir Lodge for lunch where vulnerable rhinos roam wild here the chef’s coffee panna cotta left albeit within an anti-poaching me wobbling with joy before driving enclosure encompassing 25 sq km. In a further 90 minutes south-west India they’d been blasted into to the 227sq km Kishanpur extinction by poachers by 1885 then Wildlife Sanctuary. reintroduced in Dudhwa a century later largely from Nepalese stock and Inside Kishanpur’s boundaries, the after steady breeding now number 33. savannah was being burned by local villagers. “You know why they burn It’s rare to see wild elephants yet it,” Amith fumed rhetorically. “To they were the reason I wouldn’t see improve pasture for cattle that they any rhinos and why the safari do absolutely nothing with.” elephants, including a youngster who shovelled down a banana from “Holy cows,” he tutted. “There my lunchbox, were underemployed. are even politicians who want to “Three big wild tuskers broke into replace the national symbol of the the rhino enclosure trying to mate tiger, with a cow.” His eyes rolled with these safari elephants and the skywards to Shiva’s celestial abode. wardens can’t get them out so it’s closed,” explained Amith, as Kishanpur’s gnarled waterlogged I visualised being pursued by five forests feature wild blueberry tonnes of oversexed elephant. trees amid a canopy that arches Naresh Jariwala* over the vehicle tracks like cloisters to form otherworldly half-lit ‘We saw India’s largest antelope, a male nilgai, and shuddered at fat-headed mugger crocodiles’ Amith said he’d never ride one to tunnels of greenness grazed by see the rhinos. “My mother worships abundant spotted deer. the elephant-god Ganesh so would never forgive me if I sat on one.” Despite missing Amith’s fleeting disappearing tiger tail I found ample We soon picked up the tiger tracks consolation in the biological richness he’d seen the previous day but they of loose-limbed langur monkeys, quickly went cold. “There are two a wild peacock that fanned its ways we track tigers,” said Amith. feathers like a poker player’s card “They fear no predators, so they use hand to woo his peahen harem and the sandy vehicle tracks to get swamp deer up to their haunches in around and leave pawprints. And we viscous bog: their rufous sodden fur are alerted to them by their prey smouldering at sundown, 12-tined emitting distress calls.” antlers resembling skeletal trees shorn of leaves. This IUCN red-data He also showed me territorial claw listed species has evolved webbing scratchings on a fig tree made by around its hooves. “They can literally a big male tiger reaching 2m above walk on water,” commented Amith. the forest floor. “They try to make themselves seem as large as possible Rare inds to scare away rivals,” he said. I felt su ciently intimidated to wonder We tried for tigers again the next day how safe the forest workers we saw at Katarniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary walking through the forest are. “It’s on the upper Ganges floodplain, very unsafe,” said Amith. “Two or leaving with lunchboxes of curried three people are killed every three potato-stuffed parathas. Amith was months by man-eaters, particularly still seething over yesterday’s narrow when the sugarcane is tall.” miss. “I had a crazy dream last night that a tiger was in the jungle laughing On that first safari the tigers lurked unseen in the shadows, at us,” he sighed. ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 51

Naresh Jariwala* ‘Slender-snouted gharial insisted Amith. “It’s the chicken. crocodiles basked on the The mother of all chickens.” coloured riverbanks’ Yet a truly sublime boat trip on ⊳ Katarniaghat is another outlying morning and late afternoon, the River Girwa fully justified the straining to hear distress calls and wildlife sanctuary’s logo: ‘Where sanctuary of Dudhwa, and Amith failing to find tracks. Throughout the rare is common’. believed 20 tigers inhabit its dry day we saw India’s largest antelope, golden-hued savannah, swamps, and a male nilgai with its blueish-grey Of 18 species classified as flooded forests that border the River coat, and shuddered at fat-headed vulnerable, endangered or critically Girwa. Upon arrival we picked up a mugger crocodiles. As for red endangered across Dudhwa’s local spotter, Mohammed, who’d junglefowls, I couldn’t take them network, few are as primordial in seen two leopards fighting the seriously. “That’s a chicken, escaped appearance as the Ganges river previous day yet hadn’t seen tigers in from a farm,” I complained. “No, no,” dolphin and gharial. Within minutes a while. We made two game drives, of chugging out on a small boat around uninhabited mid-river islands the freshwater dolphins were arching out of the Girwa. They’re challenging to photograph, unpredictably surfacing then diving 52 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

INDIA evolved away from other crocs 40 million years ago yet now fishing, damming of rivers, and agriculture has reduced their population to a perilous 250 or less. As thrilling however as these possibly ‘last chance to see’ encounters were I was aware two more safaris had passed and tigers still eluded me. Amith trusted his judgement and decided we should return to Kishanpur on my final day. Wild at heartNaresh Jariwala*leaving behind concentric ripples.Closing in (clockwise from this) Yet one dolphin swam beneath us A gharial at Katarniaghat; revealing the long slender snout of Indeed next morning’s hunt a black-headed oriole bird; this more-or-less blind cetacean that commenced with a bang bigger than a king isher at Kishanpur; feeds by echolocation. They have an old Raj colonel’s blunderbuss. the Ganges River; a muntjac disappeared from much of a range Amith spotted tracks at 6.45am. deer at Kishanpur; Amith that once spanned Nepal, India, and “They’re recent because they’re on with the safari vehicle; Bangladesh’s Ganges-Brahmaputra- top of the morning dew,” he said a nilgai (Asian antelope) Meghna and Karnaphuli-Sangu river before we found fresh bark scratches. systems. A decaying sign by the river “A tiger is close,” he predicted. at Katarniaghat said they numbered 2,500-3,000. “There’s probably only 1,000 left This spoor proceeded to a radial now,” said Amith. “They need junction with six options, all of unpolluted waters to fish and much which Amith frantically scanned but of their river network is now too somehow our quarry had melted like dirty for them.” an apparition into the jungle. There were no distress calls to guide us just Similarly slender-snouted, and the piercing pings of racket-tailed basking nearby on chocolate- drongo birds, while tellingly the coloured riverbanks, are antediluvian tiger’s preferred meal, spotted deer, gharial crocodiles. Several inert grazed insouciantly. 4m-long adults sunbathed impassively unaware they face Lunchtime passed and we made extinction. Their long fish-catching one final attempt in Kishanpur, snouts are so slender you could driving circuitously for several hours (ill-advisedly) cup your hands around until we parked up before sunset their nozzles, barbed with over 100 and prayed to Ganesh, Durga, teeth. They’re so ancient they whoever, for a whistleblower to come to my rescue. As daylight waned I told myself I should be grateful to have lived colonial dreams of ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 53

Naresh Jariwala* 54 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

Naresh Jariwala* INDIA Eye of the tiger Finally spotting the elusive tigress at Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary; (right) according to hunter-turned- conservationist Jim Corbett langur monkeys are the best call for spotting tigers ⊳ yesteryear in an opulently lovely lodge where I ticked off several endangered species in forests that belonged in Kipling’s Jungle Book. Seeing is believing However – and I promise this is not a contrived ending – a hot shower of liquid suddenly splashed down on the vehicle. We looked skywards and laughed. Tension broken. A langur monkey was urinating on us. “We’ve been blessed for a sighting,” roared Amith, soon to be clairvoyant. At 5.30pm a whooping peacock was followed by wailing langurs now pissing themselves with fear. Amith jammed hard on the accelerator. “Jim Corbett (another hunter- turned-conservationist) said the best call to detect tigers is a langur,” he whooped over the cries of the still-panicked peacock. With great intuition he took us to a junction of two paths. At 5.37pm, a hair’s breadth from darkness, a 170kg tigress strolled onto the track from the undergrowth. She was 75m away yet her markings glowed like licks of fire in the darkening forest tunnel. Breathing fast with excitement I fired off photographs. Unhurried and uninterested the tigress never once changed her stride. She crossed the track and all I could think to do was fist-pump Amith. Then as stealthily as she’d arrived to brighten my world and expunge my big cat curse she was consumed like a restless djinn or genie into the chiaroscuro shade of the sal tree forest. ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 55

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Footnotes Health & safety INDIA Terai, India Besides many things that go very tour operator. However, a train to right visiting this amazing country Lucknow from Delhi takes over THE TRIP Naresh Jariwala*TOP TIPthere are a number of things that 7 hours; irst class tickets from can go wrong. Vaccinations 1,910INR (£21). Even closer is The author travelled with Lucknow is the should be updated before Shahjahanpur, some 110km away Cox & Kings (020 3642 gateway to the travelling and stomach upsets are from Jaagir Lodge. 0861; coxandkings.co.uk) Indian Terai but almost de rigueur, particularly for who o er a 10-night don’t bypass it in irst time travellers. Cost of travel Secluded Dudhwa and Historic Lucknow trip a hurry as it There has been signi icant This varies considerably depending costing from £3,175pp features splendid military tension within whether you want to experience it based on two sharing. neighbouring Kashmir and Pakistan in luxury and or on a budget. Jaagir Includes four nights’ full- Mughal and so do check up on fco.gov.uk to Lodge is expensive but around board with two safaris and Victorian heritage. see the scale of this tension. It Dudhwa there is a host of smaller naturalist guides at The goes without saying, never leave less expensive guesthouses Ultimate Travelling Camp’s a safari vehicle in tiger habitat. from £20 50 per night and it’s (tutc.com) Jaagir Lodge, Last November a tiger that had very easy to get to the park’s international return lights killed 13 people was shot in India. headquarters and arrange a safari from London to Lucknow via from there. Likewise eating out is Delhi, and transfers. Getting there inexpensive. A chai and pakora for two people costs around £1. Air India (airindia.in ) ly from London to Lucknow via Delhi for Accommodation a return price of £644; the shortest light time is around 15 hours. Jaagir Lodge, Dudhwa (tutc.com) is truly opulent, particularly the There’s a closer airport to main residency with seven huge Dudhwa called Dhangadhi in Nepal bedrooms. The rooms are colonial although this requires passing style although not full of crusty through immigration. antiques and the sta are super- attentive. A two-night stay costs Getting around INR45,000pp (£503) based on two people sharing and includes The author had a pre-booked taxi transfer arranged through the a game drive and elephant safari. ⊲ Vital Statistics Roar-some A tiger at Kishanpur Capital: New Delhi Wildlife Sanctuary; Population: 1.35 billion (top) the Saadat Ali Languages: Predominately Hindi Khan tomb in Lucknow but English widely spoken Shutterstock Time: GMT+5.5 International dialling code: +91 Visas: UK passport holders require an e-visa (indianvisaonline.gov.in). Money: The Indian rupee (INR) is currently 93INR to the UK£. When to go November-June: Dudhwa NP opens from 15 November to 15 June with the ideal season for spotting tigers from November to February, when temperatures can range between 20 30°C. March-June: Summertime can be blisteringly hot above 40°C. June-October: This is tiger breeding season and the monsoon season too so Dudhwa is closed. wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 57

INDIA Dudhwa guide Amith Bangre’s ‘Big Indian 5’ 1 One-horned rhino live solitary lifestyles and are webbing on hoofs to deal with Conservation status (IUCN): This single-horned rhino e icient hunters that can move watery conditions. Critically Endangered. prefers to graze and not browse. in bursts up to 65km/h. Conservation status (IUCN): The last few decades has seen it Conservation status (IUCN): Vulnerable. 5 Ganges river dolphin recover in numbers in Nepal and Endangered with around an This large freshwater India to around 3,600. estimated 3,000 left in the wild. 4 Gharial dolphin hunts by emitting Conservation status (IUCN): Found within inland ultrasonic waves to catch its Vulnerable. 3 Swamp deer wetlands this truly prehistoric prey. It can reach 3m-long Living around the swamps looking crocodile is capable of and is known as susu on 2 Bengal tiger of the Terai these large, reaching 4-m based solely upon account of the noise it makes If the ultimate alpha cat handsome, endemic deer are a ish diet. Possibly only around when it breathes. went toe-to-toe with a lion, known as barasingha. They have 250 left in the wild found across Conservation status (IUCN): leo would blink irst. Tigers impressive antlers and possess less than 2% of its former range. Endangered. Tiger haven Naresh Jariwala* Jaagir Lodge Map illustration by Scott Jessop; Shutterstock ⊲ Dudhwa Forest Rest House WHAT Further reading More online TO PACK & information (dudhwa.co.in/dudhwa-forest-rest- Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/202 house/) is actually at the park’s A warm top for India (Lonely Planet, 2019) headquarters and while they early winter starts Man Eaters of Kumaon by Jim Planning guides are rather plain no-thrills rooms and khaki clothing Corbett (Oxford India Paperbacks, the overnight fee of around for safari are ideal. 1989) – written in the 1940s India travel guides £50pp including safari and by legendary hunter turned breakfast is great value. Dehydration conservationist Jim Corbett Archive article sachets are also who has a national park named Food & drink after him in Nepal. 25 Indian Adventures (issue 192) a good idea in indiatouristo ice.org – the o icial Indian wildlife (issue 167) Indian cuisine is very familiar to the case ‘Delhi India Tourism O ice India’s best parks for seeing British palette. North Indian food tigers (issue 82) favours wheat-based staples, belly’ strikes. particularly chapati and roti breads in what is a largely vegetarian cuisine. Dishes tend to be creamier and not as spicy as in the south of the country. Mutter paneer is a typical dish: peas and paneer (similar to cottage cheese) in a thick, creamy, tomato-based sauce. Dal, a lentil soup, is popular, and meat- eaters will ind a ix in tandoori clay oven or butter chicken. Masala chai is a sweet cardamom-infused milky tea and if you want something a little stronger India produces many good lager-beers, with King isher probably the best known. 58 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE WTWOHHEGERONE It’s time to plan your year ahead in travel … W hen it comes to unforgettable Naresh Jariwala*held each summer and throughout the travel experiences, timing is country. The biggest takes place in remote everything. There’s no Ulan Bator where you can admire the ABOUT DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES shortage of spectacular athletic prowess of competitors in contests destinations to see but pinning down of Mongolian wrestling, horse-racing, and Experience the world with DK the best time to go can be a challenge, archery. It all makes for a suitably Eyewitness. Filled with expert advice, especially if you want to pair your visit inspirational start to your own Mongolian beautiful photographs and detailed with local festivals, natural wonders or adventure, as you venture into its vast illustrations, our highly visual guides grand celebrations to truly experience grassland plains and deserts, and enjoy the show you what others only tell you. DK an adventure of a lifetime. same nomadic lifestyle that so many of its Eyewitness publish guides to more population practice even to this day. than 200 destinations, from handy This is where DK Eyewitness has come pocket-sized city guides to in, presenting its inspirational coffee table AUTUMN comprehensive country guides. book Where to go When, which can be Wherever you’re heading, they’re the used as the ultimate travel planner to Access Albuquerque in October perfect travel companion. more than 100 destinations across the globe. It features a wealth of exciting Why go? The mass ascension of hundreds experiences laid out in a month-by-month of multi-coloured hot-air balloons at the guide, all accompanied by beautiful Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta photography and grouped into themes, never fails to impress. To catch the best of helping to make the choice of your next the action, be sure to arise at the crack of port-of-call (and exactly when!) easy. dawn and arrive in time to see more than 500 balloons simultaneously lift off, filling Here are a few ideas to pen into your the barren desert sky. calendar for 2020… WINTER SPRING Choose Chile in December Venture to Valencia in March Why go? In northern Chile, December sees Why go? A raucous romp of giant puppets, the country start to move from spring into bright firework displays, and fiery summer, promising warmer temperatures, spectacles erupt on Valencia’s streets fewer crowds and clear skies – the ideal during March’s Fallas Festival. Held in conditions for star gazing in the desert. honour of St Joseph, expect grand Stellar skies watch over shimmering salt explosions and a boisterous burst of colour flats and surreal rock formations, gushing during the mascleta (a daytime firework geysers, looming volcanoes, sheer-faced display) followed by thundering applause. mountains and emerald lakes in San Pedro De Atacama and northern Chile’s SUMMER geography and lack of light pollution make this a perfect place to admire the cosmos. Make your way to Mongolia in July Where to go When is priced at £18.99 Why go? The traditional festival of Naadam and available from all good retailers. makes for an eloquent expression of Mongolia’s nomadic culture, with events Find out more at dk.com/travel wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 59

KANAGAWA As different as night and day Tokyo’s neighbouring prefecture is a thrilling mix of big-city lights, ancient sights and wilderness escapes – all just a train ride away… Naresh Jariwala* South ofTokyo, minutes by Keikyu from Tokyo. out of place in Blade Runner, Kanagawa So hit the rails to discover especially when gazing over the Prefecture a different side of Japan… spectacular neon-lit waterfront skims Honshu’s of Minato Mirai 21. southern coast to CITY OF NIGHT within sight of Mount Fuji. At The city’s bustling Chinatown its wildest fringes it’s a land The port city of Yokohama is the (the largest in Japan) owes its of onsens (hot springs) and gateway to Kanagawa. It was size to the early Chinese traders lush Tanzawa peaks, yet few once at the centre of Japan’s who settled here; it’s a great spot venture further than the neon opening up to the world, to pick up a stuffed bao (bun) metropolis of Yokohama. following the isolation of the Edo before a Keikyu Open Top Bus, period (1603–1868). to lend some background to the In between these two Earthquakes and war have seen glittering lightshow. extremes lies a whole other much of it rebuilt since then, yet world, just a train ride away from relics of its early days are still Afterwards, hit the bar district the capital. The Odakyu and visible, such as the red-brick of Noge, where nostalgia meets Keikyu train lines filter past warehouses finding new life sake. This was once a thriving coastal fishing towns, remote as shops and galleries. black market area under sake breweries, mountaintop post-war US occupation. Today, shrines and bustling morning Come nightfall it’s a different it’s reborn as a labyrinth of dinky markets – all less than 80 story. The 69-floor Landmark izakaya (pubs) and sultry jazz minutes by Odakyu and 60 Tower (296m) has the best views cafes. Stay until the small hours of a cityscape that wouldn’t look for a lively city finale. 60 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Sunset boulevard While Yokohama’s waterfront feels futuristic (left), wider Kanagawa has a far more traditional and tranquil appeal Dreamstime; Hakone Jinja; Isehara Tourist Association; Kawasaki Daishi Heikenji Temple;BEYOND THEcoastal charms of Kamakura, At the area’s centre lies Lake THE ESSENTIALS Keikyu Corporation; Local Experience Japan; Odakyu Electric Railway; ShutterstockLIGHTSa painterly sweep of hillside Ashi, its fringes burnished with temples and colourful beach rustling maples. A ‘floating’ torii Visit odakyu.jp/english to Naresh Jariwala*Around Yokohama, neon fades shacks. But explore further and gate stands on the water’s edge, book seats on the Limited into tradition. In the city’s you’ll find some hidden gems. where Mount Fuji looms Express Romancecar to northern suburbs you’ll spy the overhead for one of Japan’s great reach Shinjuku, Tokyo and Kawasaki Daishi Temple, where Yokosuka, much like Yokohama, scenes, while a short walk away Hakone-Yumoto. Both the Buddhist monks perform the comes alive in the neon hours. lies the serene 8th-century Tanzawa-Oyama Freepass ‘rite of burning’ daily, singeing The town is a living legacy Hakone Shrine, nestled among and the Hakone Freepass away earthly desires to the of the Second World War, and legions of imperious cedars. offer great benefits, such as beat of a taiko drum. there has been a US Naval Base unlimited bus, boat and train here since 1950. It’s little En route to Hakone lies rides. Catch the Keikyu Line Lining the approaching streets surprise that its Dobuita bar Isehara, a gateway to the (haneda-tokyo-access.com/ are rows of colourful stalls. Here, street ripples with shore-leave mountain town of Oyama. en) from Haneda airport to sweet-makers measure out long intent, dishing up ‘Trump burgers’ Base yourself at Tougakubou, reach Yokohama, the Miura rolls of tontoko-ame candy, and and all manner of Japanese- a beautiful ryokan of just five Peninsula and Shinagawa. tables prop up sightless daruma filtered Americana. rooms that serves a superb dolls (you paint one eye for kaiseki (small plate) menu of something you want, and the Further south, it’s a quieter homemade tofu. other when you get it). story as the line inches down to the tip of the peninsula and Nearby Mount Oyama is South of Yokohama, the Keikyu Miura itself. There, Sunday’s a thrilling hike that peaks at train line drops into the Miura Misaki morning market sees 1,252m. The Oyama cable car Peninsula, best known for the traders hustle of over red-raw takes you halfway to the Oyama cuts of fish, spiny turban shells Afuri Jinja (shrine). Stop there for and trays of silvery niboshi a ginger ale at the Teahouse (sardines). Grab a tuna bun then Sekison before hitting the steep continue the tour across the forested trail (90 minutes) for street at the fish market, where, views across to Mount Fuji. between the calls of the traders, breakfast bowls are dished up Finish along the Odakyu Line in in the restaurant. the city of Odawara, where an artisanal sake brewery tour THE WILD WEST (localexperiencejapan.com) sees you head into swaying paddy For a wilder experience, head fields to test your palate across to the wilderness of western 15 types of sake. Pick your Kanagawa. From Tokyo, it’s only favourites for a dinner cooked 80 minutes on the Odakyu over an irori fireplace in Romancecar to Hakone onsen, a 300-year-old thatched house, where many types of hot springs before a final nightcap at RYO scatter the forested gorges. Japanese Izakaya back in town. For more information visit: trip.pref.kanagawa.jp | odakyu.jp/english | haneda-tokyo-access.com/en

Naresh Jariwala* TO THE POLES Five top polar trips to start planning now, from the experts at Aurora Expeditions and Polar Routes F or solitude and five of their top trips for sheer ethereal 2020/21, including one that will beauty, there are witness a total solar eclipse… few places on Earth that can 1FOR ICEBERGS match the Poles – frosted fjords & INUITS make a home for whales, volcanoes snooze beneath West Greenland Explorer sheets of ice and glaciers glow aquamarine under the midnight Greenland is where icebergs sun. Aurora Expeditions have crack into life under the designed a range of new midnight sun, a land of age-old small-ship expedition cruises, Inuit cultures, churches available through the experts at festooned with whale bones Polar Routes. Here we round up and colourblock homes dwarfed by craggy peaks. Travel to Nuuk, the world’s northernmost 62 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE ABOUT AURORA EXPEDITIONS Aurora Expeditions, one of Polar Routes ships are getting bigger, the Greg top small-ship expedition cruise Mortimer is reversing the trend, partners, has over 25 years’ experience promoting the small-ship experience. of sailing in the polar regions. On board Aurora Expeditions’ unique polar the Greg Mortimer, a brand new ship itineraries offer the chance to get with an environmentally friendly x-bow up close to wildlife, meet fascinating design, you’ll join a maximum of 120 local communities and snorkel, sea passengers. In a market where new kayak and paddleboard. capital, before setting sail to hike amid its frost-capped explore Greenland’s rugged peaks and turquoise lakes. West Coast. Along the way, hike Press on and you’ll meet the among foxes and musk oxen, Kawesqar nomadic sea people, greet humpback whales at sea before a few days in Chiloé, level from a kayak or Zodiac and savouring traditional curanto contemplate the enormity of and wandering between icebergs in Ilulissat Icefjord, UNESCO-listed churches. Naresh Jariwala* a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 31 Mar–17 Apr 2020; Trip 17–29 May 2020; Trip plus plus flights from £6,999pp flights from £7,699pp 3FOR POLAR plans. You can wander world’s largest puffin colonies. BEARS & abandoned whaling stations, 2–12 June 2020; Trip plus 2FOR GLACIERS TUNDRA HIKES dodge between colonies flights from £6,649pp & WHALES of walruses and roam the Patagonia Svalbard Odyssey wildflower-speckled tundra 5FOR A ONCE-IN- scattered with reindeer antlers, A-LIFETIME TRIP & Chilean Fjords In Svalbard, the world’s largest all against a spectacular backdrop of moss-clad Solar Eclipse in Antarctica Skirting the west coast of Chile carnivore is believed to mountains, polar deserts and dramatic fjords. Rich in the legends of polar lets you follow in the steps of outnumber people. Begin with 5–19 July 2021; Trip plus exploration, Antarctica is flights from £8,999pp a haven for wildlife and an Antarctic explorers like Darwin, a guided tour of Spitsbergen, icescape of calving glaciers 4FOR ICE and glistening ’bergs. In 2021, tracing his HMS Beagle route to before cruising between the & FIRE it’s set to host a true natural phenomenon: a total solar the azure icefields of Glacier icebergs and whales of the Iceland Circumnavigation eclipse. See it for yourself as you sail in Zodiacs beside Alley. Keep watch for whales en Svalbard Archipelago in the The best adventures lie far pods of orcas and wander beyond the city of Reykjavík. glacial isles laden with seals. route to the ice-carved towers company of wheeling seabirds. Sail between glacier-carved Finally, manoeuvre into the fjords, black-sand beaches and prime position for the eclipse, of Torres del Paine National From here, the prevailing iceberg-filled lagoons, before before crossing to South wandering in-land for lava Georgia’s beaches to see Park, where you can conditions dictate your fields, hot springs and geysers. some of the world’s largest Visit a town dwarfed by an king penguin colonies. All Wanderlust ice-capped volcano, see the 22 Nov–17 Dec 2021; Trip craggy isles formed by past plus flights from £23,649pp readers who book eruptions and take your pick from shore excursions – will you through Polar Routes visit a tempestuous waterfall, or swim in geothermal baths? will benefit from Then head to Húsavík in search of blue whales and the a US$150 on-board formidable Vatnajökull – Europe’s largest glacier. credit per person, Along the way, kayak narrow fjords and spy one of the in addition to any other offer. Eastway; Mads Phil; Shutterstock; Heidi Krajewsky Polar wildernesses (clockwise from top left) Penguins in Antarctica; a polar bear in Svalbard; an icy solar eclipse; the Greg Mortimer ship; Iceland’s Mývatn Lake; Greenland kayaking To ind out more, please visit polarroutes.co.uk/aurora or call 0203 196 1000

Naresh Jariwala* 2020 Need inspiration for your next adventure? From unspoilt Albania to promising Pakistan and the ‘new Zimbabwe’, we present 15 essential destinations to visit over the next year WORDS SARAH BAXTER

Naresh Jariwala*⊳ KENYA WHY IT’S HOT: IT’S TIME TO REDISCOVER AWL images CLASSIC AFRICA. We say: For many, Kenya IS Africa: its acacia-dotted savannahs, teeming game parks, Rift Valley lakes and remote rustic- luxe camps are the classic image of the continent. Security concerns following a spate of terrorist attacks have deterred some travellers in the past few years. But while the FCO urges against visits to speci ic areas of the country, many places are still on-limits, including the premier safari destinations – elephant-roamed Amboseli, mountainous Aberdare, uncrowded Laikipia, the matchless Masai Mara – as well as dazzling Indian Ocean resorts such as Mombasa, Watamu and Diani. Tourist numbers are starting to increase – international arrivals in 2019 are predicted to be around 5% up on the previous year – but this still remains a great time to rediscover Kenya’s iconic wilderness without quite so many other people. Don’t miss: Visit Ol Pejeta Conservancy for the chance to see two of the world’s only remaining northern white rhinos. Ol Pejeta is also a sanctuary for the endangered black rhino; after receiving four of the creatures in 1989, it set the target of housing 120 by 2020 – an aim already surpassed by late 2019, with 134 black rhinos now living on site. ⊲

Naresh Jariwala* 66 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

Naresh Jariwala* ⊳ NAMIBIA WHY IT’S HOT: SHINING LIGHT OF Naturepl COMMUNITY CONSERVATION IS FAB AT 30. We say: Namibia is ageing extremely well. As the country gears up to celebrate the 30th anniversary of its independence from South Africa in 2020 – a big-budget a air that will culminate in a grand event in Windhoek on 21 March – it continues to o er an ever-more sustainable and responsible travel experience. Namibia has long been a pioneer of community-driven ecotourism; communal conservancies, where local people are empowered to manage and protect their environment, comprise 20% of the country. Summer 2019 saw the launch of a dedicated community conservation and tourism website (conservationtourism. com.na) to highlight the wealth of cultural, activity and wildlife-focused adventures available within these areas, from mountain hikes to tracking trips with the San people. These also include exceptional safaris – Namibia is the only country where elephant and lion numbers are increasing, and is home to Africa’s largest population of free- roaming black rhino. Many conservancies provide bu ers to the national parks. Don’t miss: Planning a self-drive Namibia trip? Visit tosco.org, a non-pro it organisation connecting the tourism industry to local people and conservation organisations, which can help you o set your vehicle’s carbon emissions via tree- planting schemes. ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 67

⊳ NICARAGUA Naresh Jariwala* WHY IT’S HOT: THE ‘NEW COSTA RICA’ AWL images IS BACK IN BUSINESS. We say: Wracked by political unrest, Nicaragua had a torrid 2018. But earlier in 2019 the FCO lifted its no-go advice for the country and, slowly but surely, tour operators and travellers are returning to what many consider the unsung star of Central America. Costa Rica might grab the headlines, but neighbouring Nicaragua is also a paradise for nature lovers, with a diverse mix of the same good stu – pu ing volcanoes, pristine beaches, lakes and lagoons, canopy zip lines and jungles exploding with wild creatures – just without the hordes of other people. Nicaragua is also far less commercialised (though infrastructure is improving) and comes without Costa Rica’s steepish price tag – expect to pay around a third less for food, accommodation and activities here. Must-sees include the graceful colonial cities of Granada and León, peaceful Ometepe Island, the empty Caribbean- lapped Corn Islands and the historic fortress of El Castillo. Don’t miss: Explore the rainforest, lagoons and wetlands of Los Guatuzos Wildlife Refuge, close to the Costa Rican border, to look for turtles, caiman, howler and spider monkeys and an array of tropical birds. ⊲

Naresh Jariwala*

Naresh Jariwala*

⊳ HOKKAIDO, JAPAN WHY IT’S HOT: EXPLORE THE BUZZYBUT LESS BUSY NORTH. We say: With the Rugby World Cup over and the Olympics on the horizon, there’s a palpable buzz around Japan right now. Tokyo will be the focus in 2020, but to enjoy the energy without the crowds, look a little further a ield to Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost isle. Wild and remote, Hokkaido reveals a completely di erent side to the country – here, as well as Japanese classics such as volcanic onsen and excellent noodles, you’ll ind a range of unspoilt national parks, fragrant lavender farms, brilliant birdwatching and world-class skiing – Finnair’s new direct light from Helsinki to Sapporo (running 15 December 2019 to 27 March 2020) will provide easier access from Europe to the slopes. Also, the new Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park is set to open in April 2020, highlighting the culture of Hokkaido’s Ainu, who Japan only o icially recognised as an indigenous people in 2019. The museum, by Lake Poroto, will provide insight into the culture of this long-ignored group via exhibitions and more experiential displays, including carving workshops, dance performances and Ainu food tastings. Don’t miss: Japan’s Royal Express sightseeing train (which usually runs south of Tokyo) will be shipped up to Hokkaido in 2020 for a limited number of luxe runs between Sapporo and east Hokkaido during the late-spring/summer. ⊲ Naresh Jariwala* AWL images

Naresh Jariwala* 72 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

Naresh Jariwala* ⊳ PATAGONIA WHY IT’S HOT: CELEBRATE THE AWL images 500TH ANNIVERSARY OF THIS END OF THE WORLD WILDERNESS. We say: In 1520, en route to completing the irst circumnavigation of the globe, Ferdinand Magellan and his Armada de Molucca discovered the stretch of water that slices through the southern tip of South America, linking the Atlantic and Paci ic – the strait that now bears the explorer’s name. Magellan found it a ierce, untamed place. And it remains so to this day, even if the ‘Pathagoni’ – the indigenous tribe of reported giants after which he named it – no longer exist. This is a landscape of calving glaciers, snow-spattered mountains, wild steppe and shores a-waddle with penguins; one of the planet’s most alluring, enduring wildernesses. This anniversary year, take a cruise in Magellan’s wake, maybe through the riddle of channels in the Tierra del Fuego archipelago. Trips runs from Chile’s Punta Arenas (where the Nao Victoria Museum is home to a replica of one of the carracks of Magellan’s leet) to Ushuaia, via Cape Horn. Don’t miss: Pop to northern Patagonia (the area around San Martín de los Andes and San Carlos de Bariloche), which will be one of the best places to see the total solar eclipse on 14 December. Tie it in with a view of the Geminids meteor shower, which peaks at the same time. ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 73

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CANADA would engage in indigenous experiences TRAVEL over the following two years. TRENDS WHY IT’S HOT: A WEALTH OF FOR 2020 NEW OPPORTUNITIES FOR Alberta has recently launched Indigenous INDIGENOUS EXPERIENCES. Tourism Alberta, an agency speci ically TRAVELLING focused on promoting First Nations tourism, BY RAIL We say: Mighty mountains, uncountable while the province’s Writing-on-Stone/Áísínai’pi lakes, endless forests and prairies – the Provincial Park, home to the largest collection Conscious of your carbon reputation of Canada’s physical beauty has of First Nation rock art on the North American footprint? In 2020 rail is set long drawn travellers. But increasingly the Great Plains, was added to the UNESCO to be the new way to travel country’s cultural side is bringing them in, World Heritage list in July 2019. In 2020 the instead of lying. It’s not too, as visitors seek deeper, more authentic new Inuit Art Centre in Winnipeg, Manitoba, only more eco-friendly, but experiences. Indeed, indigenous tourism is also set to open, showcasing a huge it will allow you to see more is growing fast in Canada, rising 23% collection of more than 13,000 Inuit works. of the countries you’re between 2014 and 2017, compared with Don’t miss: Visit Haida Gwaii, the travelling through en route a 14.5% increase in overall tourism in the mystical archipelago o the northern to your inal destination. same period. A 2018 report from Indigenous coast of British Columbia, where you can Board a bullet train in Japan Tourism BC estimated that 7.2 million visitors engage with the indigenous Haida people to see ancient castles and (gohaidagwaii.ca). take part in traditional tea Naresh Jariwala* ceremonies or discover the splendour of India aboard a luxury train. Shutterstock; AWL images PAKISTAN WHY IT’S HOT: IT’S POTENTIALLY TRAVEL’S NEXT BIG THING. We say: Pakistan should be heaving with tourists. The country has it all: the most magni icent mountains, surprisingly good and undeveloped beaches, awesome ancient history, a remarkable mix of cultures, one of the world’s greatest road trips, and warm and welcoming people. But it has also had a heap of security issues, which means this once-desirable destination – the darling of the 1960s and ’70s hippie trail – has been languishing on the FCO no-go list for many years. However, things are starting to look brighter. While several areas are still deemed o -limits, tourists are trickling back – visitor numbers have more than doubled since 2010. Also, the arduous visa process has become simpler and cheaper – citizens of 175 nationalities, including Brits, can now apply online. And in June 2019, British Airways launched its irst direct London-Islamabad light for more than a decade. Pakistan has huge potential. In 2020, it just might start living up to it. Don’t miss: In past years, travellers required a No Objection Certi icate (NOC) to visit some areas of the country. These have now been largely scrapped, opening up parts of Kashmir, Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan, where you’ll ind Hunza, one of Pakistan’s most beguiling regions. ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 75

See lions How about with an Expert China? Escape your 9-5 to track lions in Africa Call us or visit our website: - from Namibia’s beaches to the 020 7720 9285 plains of the Serengeti 1000s of tailor-made safari options www.bambootravel.co.uk Be informed. Be inspired by Expert Africa. UK: +44 (0)20 3405 6666 US/Can 1-800-242-2434 Australia 1-800-995-397 [email protected] | www.expert.africa Botswana Kenya Malawi Mozambique Namibia Rwanda Seychelles South Africa Tanzania Zambia Zimbabwe Naresh Jariwala*

Naresh Jariwala*⊳ GALWAY, IRELAND AWL images WHY IT’S HOT: 12 MONTHS OF CREATIVE CRAIC. We say: “A year of extraordinary creativity and disruption” – that’s how the west-coast Irish city bills its tenure as European Capital of Culture in 2020. Galway is pretty artsy any time, its (many) pubs overspilling with live music, its streets jolly with buskers, its hefty student population lending a lively vibe. But come 2020, the ante will be upped, with a full programme – focused on the themes of language, landscape and migration – structured around the old Celtic calendar: Imbolc (budding season, Feb-Apr), Bealtaine (summer, May-Jul), Lughnasa (harvest, Aug- Oct) and Samhain (winter, Nov-Jan). There will be 1,900 events in total, with highlights including giant light installations splashed across heaths and bogs; a version of Homer’s Odyssey touring the beaches; an International Women’s Day event attended by Margaret Atwood; the Cúirt International Festival and its celebration of Irish and European literature; country, blues, gospel, folk and bluegrass concerts; Project Baa Baa (a paean to sheep); and no fewer than 30 projects celebrating the Irish language. Don’t miss: A launch event (1 8 February) will include festivities county-wide, culminating in a ceremony devised by the team behind the London 2012 Olympics opening (galway2020.ie). ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 77

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⊳ ALBANIA WHY IT’S HOT: UNSPOILT EUROPE, WITH AN ADVENTUROUS EDGE. We say: Although Albania has been welcoming tourists for ages now – inally opening its doors after the fall of communism in 1991 – it’s taken a while for the country to catch the popular imagination. Which bemuses anyone who’s been, because the destination is a revelation. Not as polished as Croatia maybe, Albania sees a fraction of the tourists, and is dirt cheap compared to its Mediterranean neighbours – entrance fees to attractions, food, buses and beer are all a bargain. It also has an appealingly gritty edge, an astonishingly undeveloped coast, wild national parks and mountains, an array of archaeological sites (including Apollonia and Butrint) and plenty of history- and culture-rich towns. The infrastructure is gradually improving too, with better roads, a trickle of more interesting hotels, and new airport developments that will likely see more low-costers lying in. Don’t miss: In the past decade, the 2,000km-long Via Dinarica trail has spiced up the Balkans’ hiking scene; now, the TransDinarica (transdinarica.com) is looking to do the same for cycling. This cross- border route connects Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina, but is planning to extend into Montenegro, Albania and beyond soon. Naresh Jariwala* TRAVEL TRENDS ZIMBABWE sees relatively few visitors, o ering a truly FOR 2020 wild African experience, whether that’s WHY IT’S HOT: ALL HAIL loating down the mighty Zambezi River GRAVEL RIDING THE ‘NEW ZIMBABWE’. or exploring national parks such as huge, elephant-packed Hwange or the baobab If you’re looking to take the We say: O the travel map for many years, plains and red sandstone cli s of little-visited path less travelled, gravel Zimbabwe – one of Africa’s greatest safari Gonarezhou. There are also many world- riding could be your next destinations, bulging at the seams with epic class safari camps and lodges, and a wealth adventure. The growing landscapes and iconic creatures – is irmly of excellent guides. trend originated in the USA back on it. It’s been a slow burn, but in 2019 Don’t miss: Zimbabwe is home to around in places such as Colorado the Minister for Environment, Tourism and 700 painted dogs, one Africa’s most and Utah, where there are Hospitality spoke of a “new Zimbabwe”, with endangered species (only 7,000 remain). thousands of kilometres an increased focus on reducing poaching Pay a visit to Mana Pools, where a pack of unpaved gravel roads and encouraging schemes to help people of the animals was relocated in 2019; through mountains and earn a living through wildlife. guests at Chikwenya Camp will have the forests. The routes are too opportunity to see the dogs when they are uncomfortable with Now is a great time to go – while tourism a road bike and not di icult is on the up, this massive country still released in 2020 (painteddog.org). ⊳ enough for mountain bikes, hence the invention of the gravel bike. While the trend started Stateside, there is plenty of remote terrain to uncover from Georgia and Montenegro to Scotland and the ’stans. Shutterstock,AWL images wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 79

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⊳ KYRGYZSTAN TRAVEL WHY IT’S HOT: LESSER KNOWN SILK ROAD STRAND, WITH TERRIFIC TRAILS. TRENDS Naresh Jariwala* FOR 2020 We say: Following her 2018 TV series, ski-touring adventures, as well as traditional Joanna Lumley seemed to single-handedly yurt stays with steppe-roaming nomads. It’s ALTERNATIVE STAYS spark a desire for Silk Road exploration, also great value – basic meals cost less than helping to place Uzbekistan in particular – $2 (£1.60) and a bottle of vodka is nearly the It seems travellers are arguably home of the route’s most alluring same. No wonder the country features in looking for more than just cities – on the must-visit list. But if 2019 was the 2019 edition of budget-traveller bible a bed for the night when about Uzbekistan, 2020 is when intrepid The World’s Cheapest Destinations. booking accommodation travellers should switch their attention to Don’t miss: Hike a section of the Issyk Köl for their trips. Glass huts, next-door Kyrgyzstan. trail network. It comprises around 800km treehouses and loating of disconnected paths between Kochkor cabins are set to be top of This wild and largely undiscovered nation and the eco-village of Jyrgalan, accessible the list of places to stay is around 95% mountains, and ripe for an from Lake Issyk Köl’s southern shores. in 2020 as they o er an array of hiking, biking, horse-riding and experience, as well as a place to sleep. Try the Treehotel in Sweden, the glass house in the Gorafe Desert, Spain, or the Arctic Bath hotel in Lapland. Shutterstock; Alamy PORTUGAL WHY IT’S HOT: THERE’S STILL SO MUCH TO DISCOVER. We say: Named the ‘World’s Leading Destination’ at the 2018 World Travel Awards, Portugal has been consistently gracing must-see hot lists for a few years now. And long is that likely to continue, as the country just keeps on delivering – on diversity, on quality and on being brilliant value for money. First you loved Lisbon; then you were intoxicated by Porto. In 2020 it’s about going beyond those ine cities to the lesser-known regions, as travellers begin to realise how much more Portugal has to o er. Delve into the quiet, cork-cloaked hills of the Alentejo, which are edged by better (and less crowded) beaches than those in the Algarve. Explore the vineyards of the northern Minho, where you can stay in characterful manor houses on the cheap. Or tour the varied Centro Region, a bene iciary of the country’s increased development of hiking and cycling routes. Here you’ll ind plenty of well-marked trails, including the 600km Grand Route of Portugal’s Historical Villages and the Côa Valley Grand Route, which wends amid UNESCO-listed archaeological sites. Don’t miss: Made a New Year resolution to challenge yourself more in 2020? Then why not hit some or all of EuroVelo 1, a cycling trail that follows Portugal’s entire coast (euroveloportugal.com). ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 81

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⊳ RIJEKA, CROATIA TRAVEL WHY IT’S HOT: CULTURE CAPITAL STATUS GIVES THE CITY A CHANCE TO SHINE. TRENDS FOR 2020 We say: Croatia’s third-largest city, Rijeka hasNaresh Jariwala*Kvarner Bay, to theatre, opera and dance long sat in the shadow of Zagreb and Split. performances and one of the continent’s FOREST BATHING But that’s set to change in 2020 when the most colourful carnivals. Also, don’t miss Adriatic-side port shares European Capital Rijeka’s perennial unsung attractions: the We all know that spending of Culture status with Galway. Untouristy 14th-century Leaning Tower, the buzzy time in the great outdoors Rijeka combines modern grittiness with an central market, nearby Trsat castle, the is good for your health and ancient centre, and an authentically Croatian Croatian National Theatre and museums, art wellbeing, but now there’s atmosphere with a multicultural twist – spaces, cool cafés and bars aplenty. even a term for it. Shinrin- indeed, its theme for the year is the ‘Port of Don’t miss: Hop aboard Galeb, a navy ship yoku (or forest bathing), Diversity’, apt for a city that, over the past that sank in 1944, was reconstructed in a term coined by the century, has changed countries seven times. 1952 and subsequently used as the o icial Japanese during the 1980s, yacht of Marshal Tito. Now a museum, the involves disconnecting A varied programme of events is planned, vessel will host several cultural events. from technology and from art installations and gatherings around reconnecting with nature by spending time in forests. Popular in both Japan and New Zealand, the trend is now taking o in Europe. Shutterstock; Alamy LEBANON WHY IT’S HOT: IT’S DELICIOUS, DIVERSE, SAFE AND EXOTIC. We say: Lebanon’s negative image has lasted far too long: 2020 marks 30 years since the end of the ugly civil war that raged from 1975 to 1990, and the country is well and truly back open for business. Tourism numbers are on the up ( igures suggest 40% more European travellers arrived in 2019 compared to 2010) and even Saga is launching holidays there. The fact is, it’s a safe and enlightening place to experience Arab culture and Middle Eastern history. As the country is compact, you can pack a lot into a trip, from the lively food, art and nightlife scene of bustling Beirut to the wild Qadisha Valley, Cedars of God forest, ancient sites such as Sidon, Baalbek and Byblos, world-class vineyards and the sparkling Mediterranean coast. Though, if you have time, hit the Lebanon Mountain Trail, a 470km-long hiking path using shepherd tracks and Phoenician and Roman paths to span the country, top to bottom. Don’t miss: Lebanon serves some of the region’s inest food, and the past few years have seen its signature dishes and ingredients – from za’atar spice to manousheh latbreads – go global. Better to taste them at the source: try a Taste Lebanon foodie walking tour (tastelebanon.co.uk). ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 83

Naresh Jariwala* DISCOVER GEORGIA From historical cities to dramatic mountains, discover your perfect Georgian experience with Regent Holidays 0207 666 1258 | REGENTHOLIDAYS.CO.UK

Is it time to visit SAUDI ARABIA? We daresay you’ve heard the news – Saudi Arabia is now welcoming foreigners into the country with new e-visas for travellers on o er. But it hasn’t come without debate. While the country’s human rights record leaves a lot to be desired, it remains ‘safe’ to visit – although like anywhere in the world, you must be respectful, stay alert and check FCO guidelines. But there are also incredible sights to behold: underwater scenes at Red Sea reefs, the spice markets of former capital Jeddah, the archaeological ruins at Mada’in Saleh (pictured), the mountains of Asir, where mist descends over juniper forests in winter and thousands of Hamadryas baboons hang out. What do you think, though? Head online to www.wanderlust.co.uk to join the conversation. Naresh Jariwala* BELARUS Shutterstock; Jordan Hammond & UKRAINE WHY IT’S HOT: THE BLEAK PAST IS BRIGHT FOR WILDLIFE. We say: Dark tourism – visiting places made infamous by death and disaster – is on the rise. And destinations don’t come much darker than Chernobyl. Pop culture has only increased the fascination: the number of visitors to the site of the nuclear catastrophe has risen since the eponymous HBO series aired this year, and the trend looks to continue, with the Ukrainian president announcing the creation of new walking trails within the exclusion zone. Such travel is not without controversy, but done responsibly, it can be enlightening and thought-provoking. There are opportunities to overnight in the area, visit the decaying school and fairground, and meet ‘self-settlers’ who’ve returned to live in the area. You can also witness how nature has started to reclaim the abandoned landscape: with humans and domestic animals out of the way, many rare wild species have moved back in. The Palieski State Radioecological Reserve – the Belarusian section of the Chernobyl exclusion zone – is open for eco-tours, on which you can spot species such as lynx, wolves, bison, bear and Przewalski’s horses (released after the accident). Don’t miss: Also in Belarus, Naliboki Forest has one of the highest densities of bison, elk, lynx and eagles on the planet. wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 85

COMPETITION WIN! A HOLIDAY TO KUALA LUMPUR & PENANG WORTH £5,500 K uala Lumpur is so Stay a while, and you’ll discoverNaresh Jariwala*Penang, including hotels andCentral Market where artisans and much more than not only a vibrant capital with return lights. antique dealers ply their wares.  the gateway to international clout, but a tempting Dreamstime; Getty; Shutterstock; Malaysia Airlines Malaysia – it’s a tangle of street markets, city Capital gains Kuala Lumpur may be a cut- cultural crossroads parks, colonial relics and historic and-thrust capital , but it has with a rich history, where towering banyan tree-shaded lanes. It’s Wherever you venture, the mighty plenty of peaceful moments too: skyscrapers rub shoulders with where old meets new, tradition Petronas Towers are never far from in the Islamic Arts Museum, for temples, mosques and museums. meets ambition – and where sight. Those twins are the tallest in example, where sacred treasures Malay, Indian and Chinese the world, and glittering beacons await; or the treetop walkway of KL For many, it’s simply a stopover in luences combine with of the capital’s prosperity. Up on Forest Eco Park. Look eastwards city – somewhere to change intoxicating e ect. Now, the 88th loor observation deck, and you’ll see E&O Residences, planes on a continent-hopping Malaysia Airlines is o ering one with the city at your feet, you’ll spy one of the city’s most welcoming journey – but this thriving lucky winner a six-night holiday the bustling street food stalls of hotels. With a choice of suites and metropolis always rewards those for two to Kuala Lumpur and Jalan Alor, the incense-infused apartments, it o ers comfort and who linger longer.  temples of Chinatown, and the convenience – as well as a pool, 86 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

Naresh Jariwala* Malaysia Airlines, its national How to enter concierge service, landscaped Outside Georgetown, Penang carrier, lies directly between gardens and easy transport links. promises plenty of authentic London Heathrow and Kuala Malaysia Airlines is o ering Malaysian culture. You can Lumpur twice daily on its new one lucky reader a holiday Beyond Kuala Lumpur discover ornate Buddhist temples Airbus A350 leet – taking just 13 to Malaysia, worth £5,500. such as Kek Lok Si, feast on hours. From Kuala Lumpur, the With tickets for you and Few visitors realise that Malaysia richly-spiced street food, brave airline connects directly with more a companion, you’ll enjoy is an archipelago, with almost lofty views from the panoramic Malaysian destinations than any return lights from London 900 islands to its name. There Sky Walk – which towers over hills other carrier – putting everywhere Heathrow, three nights at are isles to suit beach hoppers, and forests in the north of the from Borneo to Langkawi within the E&O Residences in culture seekers, foodies and island – and laze on wildlife-rich easy reach. Penang is just a Kuala Lumpur, and three adventurous souls – but Penang, beaches in Penang National Park. one-hour light from Kuala Lumpur nights in a Studio Suite at just o the west coast, has You’ll be sharing the sands with – a direct route the airline operates the Eastern & Oriental Hotel something for everyone. The lying lemurs and crab-eating multiple times a day.  in Penang – including all state’s capital, Georgetown, is macaques, and gazing out at breakfasts, 30kg baggage UNESCO-listed for its colonial marmalade sunsets every night.  If you’re planning a trip to allowance and private architecture and trading history (it Australia or New Zealand, ask transfers too.  was the irst British settlement in Penang isn’t just an island, about Malaysia Airlines’ Bonus South-East Asia) – with many of its however: it also encompasses Side Trip o er: you can enjoy To enter, simply answer 16th-century forts and landmarks part of the mainland, known as a multi-day stopover in Malaysia, the following question:  still standing today. Seberang Perai. Here you’ll ind plus a free return airfare, with only What is the name of hiking in Bukit Mertajam Forest, taxes to pay, to seven Malaysian Malaysia Airlines’ airport E&O Hotel, which opened in birdwatching in Penang Bird Park, destinations (plus Bangkok and lounges – available in 1885, has maintained the opulence and – in December – the Penang Singapore) while you’re there – to London, Kuala Lumpur of its origins – akin to Ra les in International Dragon Boat Festival.  squeeze the most into your break. and beyond? Singapore, and The Strand in Malaysia Airlines is a member of a) Golden Lounge Rangoon. Come for the history, A lying start Oneworld, so travellers also earn b) Hibiscus Lounge  but stay for the fancy suites, Avios and Tier points on all lights c) Tiger Lounge fantastic location and the Whether you’re in Kuala Lumpur or – as if exploring this incredible star-studded guest list: the likes exploring the islands, adventure is country wasn’t rewarding enough. To enter and for full terms, conditions of Noel Coward and Rudyard never far away – and the country is and data policies, go to wanderlust. Kipling have stayed here. closer than you might think. co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust o ice (address on p.7) and state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust. The closing date is 15 December 2019. For more details, visit malaysiaairlines.com | eohotels.com | eoresidences.com Visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions

WNSINCEITOONFATLTHYEDEBSESRT Naresh Jariwala* From mountain-top towers to teetering tubes and hidden treehouses, we lace up our snow boots and explore some cool lodgings in even cooler climates WORDS CLAIRE COLLINS 1HOTEL JEŠTĚD, CZECH REPUBLIC Hotel Ještěd has been expecting you. Take a thrilling cable-car ride to the summit of Mount Ještěd in the remote northern mountains of the Czech Republic and ind this Bond-esque lair stealing the show. With a 94-m TV transmitter, and views spanning as far as Poland and Germany, the hotel beats extreme weather with its award-winning design. Relax in one of its modern or retro rooms, or don a skisuit and glide down the slopes in the shadow of its tower to be the star of your own movie. From £67 per night, breakfast included; jested.cz 88 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

Naresh Jariwala* WANDERSLEEPS 2 AURORAHUTS, FINLAND Take your Arctic adventure to the next level with AuroraHut right up in Finnish Lapland: mobile mini cabins that travel across snow, ice and water with loor-to-ceiling windows ensuring prime northern lights views. The irst of their kind, they come equipped with a composting toilet, electricity, kitchenette and WiFi, meaning you won’t have to leave your warm room to bear the elements. But if you want to feel the chill, there’s dogsledding, snowshoeing and ice ishing right on your doorstep: you’ll be parked in a choice spot next to frozen Lake Inari. From £231 per person per night; theaurorazone.com 3TREEHOTEL, SWEDEN On the evergreen outskirts of the Arctic Circle, Sweden’s Treehotel transforms your childhood hangout into a modern-day escape, just an hour’s drive from Luleå. Among the forest, you’ll be spoilt for choice with a range of unique lodgings, from the camou laged Mirrorcube, to the larger-than-life Bird’s Nest and out-of-this world UFO. Get your blood pumping with whitewater rafting, relax with yoga on ice, or spot the local celebrities on a moose safari. From £379 per night for two people, including breakfast; treehotel.se ⊲ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 89

SWEDEN’S DESIGN ICONS: STA AT ARCT C BATH – ICEHOTEL, TREEHOTEL & ARCTIC BATH NEW FOR 2020 Experience the very best of autumn in Swedish EAR Y BOO NG Lapland with gourmet dining, optional RECOMMENDED excursions and stays at three of Scandinavia’s most innovative hotels, including the all-new Arctic Bath. Prices from £1,595 per person incl. flights, transfers, 2 nights B&B at ICEHOTEL, 1 ni ht half-board at Treehotel, 1 night half-b d at Arctic Bath with spa ritual & 5-course dinner & rail journey from Kiruna to Boden. Naresh Jariwala*020 7838 5903 | best-served.co.uk Prices correct at the time of going to print and subject to availability. Terms & conditions apply. ATOL Protected. DIREEXCTCFLLUIGSHITVS E FEEL DISCOVER 5042 There has never been a better time to visit the world-famous Icehotel. Celebrating its 30th anniversary this winter means everything is a little more spectacular than ever. And though the hotels’ design changes every year, our expertise in offering tailor-made, authentic holidays remains a reassuring constant. Mush a husky team, ride a snowmobile, enjoy amazing cuisine, go in search of the aurora and more… DESTINATION EXPERTS SINCE 1983 01737 888 466 ICELAND | SWEDEN | NORWAY | FINLAND | & BEYOND discover-the-world.com

WANDERSLEEPS 4⊳ AURORA BUBBLE SLED, FINLAND Taking the term ‘living in a bubble’ to a new level, the Aurora Bubble Sled is your own glass- covered sleigh. It’s been towed by snowmobiles into the icy wilderness around Kilpisjärvi, where the lack of light pollution makes for great aurora hunting, and its position close to the border of three countries makes for a ine snowmobiling expedition. Between snowshoeing tramps, your tour guide will explain the science behind the northern lights and point you north before heading back to camp, leaving you to gaze at the natural wonders overhead. Four-day packages from £1,099pp; o themap.travel Naresh Jariwala* KKilpissafarit 5HOTEL ARCTIC, GREENLAND 6 HOLMEN HUSKY’S Want to experience a night in an igloo, but not keen on TIPI BUNGALOWS, the cold? Enter Hotel Arctic. Swapping the ice blocks for NORWAY a modern aluminium frame, this hotel’s domes ensure Nowadays almost everything you stay snug and warm after exploring Greenland’s is readily available at the push great outdoors. These fully equipped cabins are located on a UNESCO World Heritage site, so keep an eye out for some of the of a button. But not so at Holmen Husky world’s biggest icebergs drifting by. And if you fancy trying the best Lodge in Alta, where guests are o ered local produce, look no further than on-site restaurant Ulo, dubbed a more organic, closer-to-nature the “world’s wildest kitchen” by Danish magazine Gastro. experience. Based on the traditional Sami From £237 per night for two people, available May–October; lavvus (tent), these tipi bungalows are hotelarctic.com/en equipped with a stove, bed and large windows to take in your surroundings. However, you’ll have to step out into the bracing fresh air and walk a few metres to eat, shower or use the toilet – as well as to take advantage of the husky-led activities taking you deep into northern Norway. From £80 per night. Only as part of a package; holmenhusky.no ⊳ wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 91

WANDERSLEEPS 7⊳ NORWEGIAN WILD LIGHTHOUSE, NORWAY Enjoy undisturbed 360° views of the northern lights or midnight sun from your very own lighthouse. Norwegian Wild has created this hideaway in a remote spot among Senja Island’s diverse landscapes, found high on Norway’s island-fringed coastline. Beginning with the boat trip to get there, a stay in this gem will gently lull you into the peacefulness of nature. The island is a great place to recharge your batteries, whether you’re exploring by bike, hiking in Ånderdalen National Park or kayaking the jords. From £217 per night; norwegianwild.no Naresh Jariwala* 9 MONTE ROSA HUT, SWITZERLAND Sitting at the foot of the Monte Rosa massif, trekking to the Monte Rosa Hut is an experience in itself, and a mountain guide is recommended for the journey – its di iculty level is ranked at hard. Don’t let the ascent deter you, though, as your climb will pay o when you encounter the 120-guest capacity lodge. Thanks to an aluminium shell, the building’s structure re lects the surrounding landscape, and produces much of its own energy. It doesn’t just o er easy skis to Zermatt, but is also a good starting point from which to cross over into Italy. From £75 including breakfast and dinner; March-Sept; monterosahuette.ch 8 BIVACCO GERVASUTTI, Francesco Mattuzzi ITALY Be warned, Bivacco Gervasutti’s capsule is not for the faint of heart. Teetering a staggering 2,800m above sea level on the edge of a cli on the Frebouze Glacier in the Mont Blanc massif, this unique accommodation allows you and 11 friends to sleep (in two dormitories) in the clouds. Add in great hiking, skiing and snowboarding on the surrounding mountains, and this eco-friendly haven is sure to satisfy the ultimate adrenaline seeker in you. The accommodation is free, but a contribution of £9pp per night is suggested; ecobnb.com 92 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

WHAT’S ON YOUR BUCKET LIST? HUSKY SAFARI NORTHERN LIGHTS SNOW HOTEL SNOWMOBILING LOG CABIN For moments that will take your breath away, choose a Nordic winter holiday with Artisan Travel. Combining once-in-a-lifetime experiences, remarkable destinations north of the Arctic Circle and expert local knowledge, we carefully create itineraries that ensure you have more than just a holiday. With expertly crafted holidays across Finland, Sweden, Norway, Canada, Alaska and Iceland, Artisan Travel are your shortcut to some of travel’s greatest adventures this winter. Call 01670 333 544 or visit us online at www.artisantravel.co.uk 5180 Naresh Jariwala* THE BRIGHTEST WAY TO SEE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS The Aurora Zone is the original Northern Lights holiday specialist and remains dedicated to only one thing – showing you the Aurora Borealis. 9i>ÀÃœv«>ÃȜ˜]ÃVˆi˜ÌˆwVÀiÃi>ÀV…]iÝ«iÀÌ Ž˜œÜi`}i>˜`wÀÃ̇…>˜`iÝ«iÀˆi˜Vi…>Ûi}œ˜i into The Aurora Zone, resulting in an unparalleled VœiV̈œ˜œvœÛiÀ™ä œÀ̅iÀ˜ˆ}…ÌÃ…œˆ`>Þà departing from September to April. >݈“ˆÃiޜÕÀV…>˜ViÃœv܈̘iÃȘ}̅i œÀ̅iÀ˜ˆ}…ÌÃÆÌÀ>Ûi܈̅/…iƂÕÀœÀ><œ˜i qޜÕÀƂÕÀœÀ> Ý«iÀÌð TO BOOK CALL 01670 336 606 OR VISIT WWW.THEAURORAZONE.COM 5180

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Mountain queen The cave city of Vardzia was established in 1156 and is associated with Georgia’s irst female ruler, the iconic Queen Tamar Naresh Jariwala*

Naresh Jariwala* GEORGIA GOD’S OWN COUNTRY Georgia may be known as the birthplace of Stalin, but the country will enchant you with its historic beauty, rolling green hills – and especially its wine WORDS LYN HUGHES PHOTOGRAPHS SCOTT BENNETT

Naresh Jariwala* L egendhasit wine, and this was why they were have been making wine for many AWL images that when God late. God liked their answer and gave thousands of years and enjoy was dividing them a piece of the land that he kept consuming it too. Even Mother the land among for himself. Thanks to that, Georgia, the huge statue which the people of Georgians live in a paradise on earth. overlooks Tbilisi, holds a bowl of the world, the wine in her hand. Georgians were That story, which I was to hear too busy several times, gave me an immediate Under the in luence drinking and missed out. God was insight into Georgia. It’s a beautiful angry at them and asked where they country with magnificent “I’ve had more wine this week than in had been. They responded that they mountains, fertile soils and plentiful the last seven years!” said one of my had been toasting his health with water. It’s one of the most religious companions as we participated in yet countries on earth. The Georgians another wine tasting. I was in 98 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

GEORGIA Naresh Jariwala* Spellbinding Georgia’s capital is full of charm: a view over Tbilisi’s Old Town, Muslim Quarter and Narikala Fortress at night Georgia with a group of Wanderlust I’d met a British expat living in another of the great myths and readers, all keen like me to get to Tbilisi. “The Georgians are lovely; legends of the Georgian repertoire. explore the country’s rich cultural they are friendly and fun – they like heritage and natural beauty. Our to party. But sometimes they party Tbilisi was an intoxicating mix of tour leader was Dario Ghirlanda, too much,” she had said. She shared old and new, historically a crossroads a previous winner in our annual a tale of how two priests had spent of civilisations, with a beautiful World Guide Awards. Although an a night drinking, and one of them setting, atmospheric old town, Ethiopian he has spent a season in had gambled his church away while sulphur baths, fascinating bazaar and Georgia for several years and fallen under the influence of alcohol. signs for wine tastings everywhere. for its many charms. Within a few Whether the story is true or not However, to really appreciate hours of exploring the capital Tbilisi, (I have found nothing to back it up) Georgia’s 525 varieties of wine and we were falling under its spell too. perhaps doesn’t really matter. It’s yet long heritage you need to head out to one of the boutique wineries that wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 99