stnoonesbirds two birds no stone twoapril 2018 stnoonbeirdss
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symmetry all night long SDJoeucssiitagiclneers& Do designers assume enough responsibility for the impact they have in shaping our social climate? Especially for designers and art directors working in corporate environments, where do we draw the line between serving the needs of our client and serving the needs of our greater community? I pose this question in light of the recent uproar regarding a line of graphic T-shirts sold by Abercrombie & Fitch that depicted images of slanted-eye men in rice paddy hats doing laundry and pulling ricksaws. ey featured caricatures of Asians that clearly referenced racial stereotypes and historic antecedents of discrimination. e corporation has since pulled the shirts from their stores and have apologized by saying that they never intended to o end the community. Rather, they said that the shirts “were designed with the sole purpose of adding humor and levity to our fashion line... e thought was that everyone would love them, especially the Asian community. We thought they were cheeky, irreverent and funny...” Self described as a “powerful lifestyle brand . . . providing high-quality merchandise that compliments the casual classic American lifestyle,” A&F is known for it’s reliance on visual imagery of mainly all-white models in sexually charged compositions to target its 14-22 year old, upper-middle class demographic.
While A&F might not have had malicious intentions, their visual messages absolutely re ect an e graphic design program in the University of Nebraska–Lincoln’s ininPCotcerlohteernjbaAriusmtanhseticeAatrmnisngsbaoidertscnrethSPsu’taerwadJionsrentStrtoestiiphohneihPrgttsrnrei,inrh”eotpifesConPeoFwtor5fsagilatthltsr0tririltathocaeehyerLhimrbeh.dtsaaSsoSt“AByoLSwoelmftoinaRhcaaflkmhielencoufAlimepfvonrkrbofvadiooatirutete,ltsoAPirnyhnruAhaanApsmi’tatueoresiaeanfvutAsntra,rrapSoeomb3derolrhyynrnadwi0seeindampwsiamsn0orsmmtireref-oheSdeppyrysnrAde’PlrnuitemrsoetahitadsatrsbcraGrteeyriphnGaLttreertoidreulihtroyatHacaalwraiitsstsovelahtesiaumitEptneeetnsaa:oovdohofhnoidigimnefLengterrticnuoraedxdteoylbrhp.eaurnrhhredAiyiwhpeeneadariusHbohrtfaoBniiitveDflBsteesynld.demioraoa.(graedtgocspouhsMrcStrenAiuknuveAgaustkaIucurlleibdpyzseeoplard’gGmfPiashsouidehl,iaacneAennncoaSlgnin)oartHt,sttfehtunLwfrdoytcheiohteeeuJoltfccaeweshgshrncmrrutrduieinehedsrpoDogtasiDmdtPaesoenieentpw,Amnas.aisrcedirpgdoidtpnmeasauuMtgrHvtygerrk.iMeuotinrSioemsissdcyLrnIinmceemaiaasgnrwleaaemsutscsssitvotnnnpsyroepatmnIdaotirkegioesrgMlnofvioouxfoseaeidwifttseuassnysis,ai,htqtts”ohmCmoPeiuruhifeDrutehnaalbntadoeoltteocgfreyhuuptosoopadellrvgfpalrrKlipeeiteeteeoeaavpidhsotatgsn.seoewytmepovhnrnl“isi,rtoedoertSmAtwtfouacoelpoadhAthstnesnoti:cawaonhtisthoiwephndmyvi’D“f.aaituposeerlerygertnossetsrmlatswinhh.heaeieanogo”ahresfpnndurnoeeSNtlfhcekea+iesupfoidwngctraSlbrelredtgerbohodreaeaaarceholecispgreeelmtoulikicaahfytxsevlineavlip.yiHccgnggesoa,rvrui“ot”smdeeaInowoateapmioidpdtnAstdfearoiidshahespiavngptihieactegnetelnuh.iorlhrdodeeaype“mesplssnlsAaemtiea’weilslagasdod.snto,e organizational structure of exclusion. Some say this is completely blown out of proportion and that Department of Art and Art History hosted a symposium in we as a culture need to lighten up and nd more humor in the situation. I nd that to be a poor September titled “Design + Social Justice” to highlight excuse for someone who can a ord $30 T-shirts and lacks the sense of historical injustice that goes the visual communications, stories and portraits of along with being part of a disadvantaged group in this country. ere’s got to be more that we can do to empower ourselves as communicators so that we don't continue to marginalize or discriminate potefhgeomgegnrxpaoapkrsricaeWayencearsalnopPaptlepdemememsgetyaspphfnbpdgprgodiehsciahgsvpSacmacethvhokoageauoagriiynkooeiveaotynoobhxotefnnnfoiiiriecgeosdrrmptnodepadtmcenclacmweieiottateeateoutuniairdsortinhdheeuwgezewtutsdaacdmsogptwunewhetspxomanihoesixeca.doins”rtissporxtnesotwlsdgeniouosf.ttraoutpateteaSeuapisaeptruaahhsghsiafcdiAsgr“tsnuptmrragcrslhoiigefrrdieiamilynsneiItepegoiineim.setaruriahooesethnunnepntta.aakeiesnniafdIhc’hbretagxmrermrostnmgcteg“liduvrreiretanyoiheAneytceegvwlwaarnefessbbshtcntoee,nerlinrrndstiitognsarpaarfhmetettsb.learfeoooduhojhyituntoeweolnasrleaxeruoednusteoiAmceletrdeocaotlkrtcSdnegnauohgdotyhoategss’sraieasibrhhstrtrsbohsayeoHg,eatdginsutwoer.satea,ea”’ti”sfmoetsbnghveidpdneoluctorenhelrclvgrghiosiuai.ihusSdpawm.xoemainraotossyttsetefn“nstsipopantuabehytseemuocWrtiajmthpsehllsihoeuue’eAonoddodttayasidirnhceenseisseutitahkriti.cevttrt’i,ehdtroathi”simrdohcf“aatdsginegefdnehcea.lehtnoinhoieewrepdggotheh“eusnrmshxegrdttreSgnseeleceelgtNaleoweerimciotesooemhret,maugmlhrenoietwxiep.rgpuoeegnenitnsnnoehbnneasolhureileadn“.isdaewdenyrsdirdsgnigie.aI“.btlnxarem,sisez”eketedItwr“s“isgrcudeeahAwrtt’bitakgispsiox.erieoe”lsanttha.nueoraetatdpoasirtlahiovabnta.dnuonsgklveesafasetuair“agtitsanlaeordeSuddnnoIpaocnf.loa”etdxyoenudrmttp,defsfsepenrmSoreaadeAnorephenpaulsuniobsnnafdxoEeoapnlietmltesltlw.ogeplrv”wthetooyssalwssehxonpy.ioeiaepseSamdittnnioWlsiayrnulawhptersruepelnips’edtesselcftmyapeaaihladcdrnompaesnpsvlScyoeekofanihetgasaiwitmr,tnece”nuvhrrhlgnaasewtmoe’hedsdhvteuimaudanwdotgneiestrecnocheproAehsadhaoussgftaaiaanhhsseoltostpogsailrhyhssaeudetnhornatwimuererciatognitlieserydintchinfnhptkdmiow’egaevtcsedoeonwnrpraexpfdoweaosesre,ntp”pasioursoeumetioaslt,rlbgmdhdoxompdrtwbeneipraetptnsecuilns.holurnisaioogin“ktoanagrsgksruIeiiegeergnistaellobnadnxeytdeeiree,olekpt”gdermpe“bx.iwe’esSSndatystidgrehoounohmvgiisomgermtkarsateiwphkiionanhntitonneresi’gurtsaiogrozengsrasiegne.wetuds”mlatgtewhodigeeetiSfnnomnhsoeanumpttdsgrestothieoohanhaautiiiritenkhsgendshrptdreiet.oatetnleioahe“tnwrsogehltnTieclspchpaiayuwoedatshletoseetgleessesopoeeaattmehoierotdpfcwthaoedts,diitarehfer,oaas“cseeecWeevroxxtJseeesofhhuesrahuo’aiiserybnbenorteatiihdnwhrdtttsceiihaeemoohnrelestinnxtoemmsaais,pmtnknagbelajeargaodumuntonvrtigsbtvdurheefdotoyiahsesrutadacleoSmnaumhensltiwbossateseadaohairwcluSflillnpnrdoeineiicseskeaamprocatogpopfehloStpebrunmpatwuJouoataelepareupoerrsotmseomemxveeoshtpffpdatrsaetoroebluistlAnLridayturrcreahgecnuctseelie.trrirheeaanoneila”ttt“ohancmgiiitrtcistvzfstattao,etoiohyehottaeye,nt”nNtw’ldpmlsasinehoeendtoothhhtoeydhoodre’ttpnSspeioboioAregcdnbyAjeUosw“rrtDsuahdriumb,xhtoeDasadssnnsteilaseienseiwgihcatnieuptedtsimkpHsrgrubdrevosiasgtgmosf.aaeaghreseieirsriirtgsgm–grcswnsnortrithwaiueeteaentgnhisumeetpmreonxtdsnsiorhrikimirtecharo+nn,t’uyseneeadtiynuibgtlenncodidsunnntwetdgW.” e against subsets of our community. I am interested in hearing what other designers thought about this episode, speci cally the relationship between artistic intent, interpretation and responsibility. More importantly, how can we as a community of designers begin to maintain a critical dialogue about issues of race and class? e struggle for social justice and ght against institutional racism and economic inequity should take place in all arenas, including design. Cutting-edge work will always push the boundaries of what’s right and what’s wrong. As complex as issues of censorship and freedom of expression get in the creative world, we can't ignore the hand our profession has in in uencing popular culture or deny our accountability for how we use that power. I am interested in hearing what other designers thought about this episode, speci cally the relationship between artistic intent, interpretation and responsibility. More importantly, how can we as a community of designers begin to maintain a critical dialogue about issues of race and class? e struggle for social justice and ght against institutional racism and economic inequity should take place in all arenas, including design. Cutting-edge work will always push the boundaries of what’s right and what’s wrong. As complex as issues of censorship and sdhfAeeeIatiwirnnhocpacaxieectsnaimcecoeepsodldailorncouarubsoipodognnloemadourettujmsmereau,uicosetrbnspsoafeinippirtaotgmscleoiiedibtlxctonfeceiypdmeoeadnnixsrfuresgeauoeiaicitssnnaorenqesnaiinisdthhsgiulsodtloshenynyiiiofurwnatasig.etoyfsgreshesiwCfisuthwntpnsehdeitogheuonhireeunfsnaoewtstasftlrgshiulceoahigtuaieantrb’latnfcseidihcetiongenerlcaroaincer-ttsateiiastteasyntgnphtnih.bdikgovehidvMsineerwgeppetogcsedwooepbliratwrpearno.iswelnseustrathiolustlwdgiodcao?mirtn,rerpeilwwmekoecpdrieunaonnsha,wlecnrtiaataawutnhasridlnatrtlottl’ne’ertlriaslusfautiioaatggrlcnwcrgiynlrehcai,wgdoeartsehnilernmoanadeceon’btytnarywotfeoihossagtnmoue,irncup.tcta,drautnohlsifhs pUrnoiegvgrerarasimpt ihyincotfdheesign
we had sex in here you’re not special. so did we! I didn’t, what about me! what about you? imnotforsale_ne
e professional e answer is, of QGMJ=FGL answer chef, line course, yes. Anyone GOING CRAZY is, of cook, can cook, to varying course, QGMN= yes. butcher, or degrees. But not BMKL Anyone the myriad everyone can be a KL9JL=< can professional chef, L@AFCAF? of other line cook, butcher, or WHOC ANeansweris,ofcourse,yes.Anyonecan positions the myriad of other cook, to varying degrees. But not everyone that make positions that make up can be a professional chef, line cook, butcher, a professional kitchen or the myriad of other positions that make up up a and the food industry a professional kitchen and the food industry professional in general. It takes in general. It takes training and a certain kitchen and training and a certain temperament and physical endurance. You temperament and can be a great cook at home, but that has the food absolutely no bearing on your ability to be in industry in a professional kitchen, as New Yorker writer general. It Buford found out in Heat. e same is true, perhaps to a lesser degree, for design (or for B E Athatmatteranycra thatcombinesartistryand skill). Anyone can design. It's a human activity, to give ideas form and expression in order to takes physical endurance. ameliorate a less-than-ideal situation. But not e answer is, of course, yes. Anyone can cook, to varying degrees. You can be a great cook everyone can be a professional designer and But not everyone can be a professional chef, line cook, butcher, or the at home, but that has work at the level most professional designers myriad of other positions that make up a professional kitchen and the absolutely no bearing do: where money, time, and reputation (yours food industry in general. It takes training and a certain temperament on your ability to be in and your clients' and your users') are at stake. and physical endurance. You can be a great cook at home, but that has a professional kitchen, And for some designers, like those of medical absolutely no bearing on your ability to be in a professional kitchen, as as New Yorker writer devices, military systems, and emergency New Yorker writer Buford found out in Heat. e same is true, perhaps Buford found out in response systems, the stakes are even higher: to a lesser degree, for design (or for that matter any cra that combines Heat. e same is true, users are literally entrusting their lives to the artistry and skill). Anyone can design. It's a human activity, to give ideas perhaps to a lesser designers. I don't know about you, but I want form and expression in order to ameliorate a less-than-ideal situation. degree, for design (or someone who knows what they are doing But not everyone can be a professional designer and work at the level for that matter any designing the important products and services most professional designers do: where money, time, and reputation (yours cra that combines I use. e problem is though, like the customer and your clients' and your users') are at stake. And for some designers, artistry and skill). in the restaurant, everyone thinks they can like those of medical devices, military systems, and emergency response Anyone can design. design, and will o er an opinion, informed or systems, the stakes are even higher: users are literally entrusting their It's a human activity, not, on design work. Having an opinion on lives to the designers. I don't know about you, but I want someone to give ideas form and design isn't the same as being a designer. Some who knows what they are doing designing the important products and expression in order to DESIGNER
So why don’t we get pro le? Well, if you haven’t read Lean In by Sheryl Sandberg, then buy it now. Its mantra of “We’re holding ourselves back by not raising our hands, and by pulling back when we should be leaning in” is an important truth and I have yet to nd a woman who has not identi ed with it at some point. Combined with this, women are less likely to build their networks or take platforms to speak, and we tell ourselves “how lucky we are” and continuously settle for what’s on o er rather than push and negotiate. I’ve done all of these things in my career. ankfully I found excellent role models, mentors and sponsors, who believed in me and pushed me to do more, and who still do. And I now have my own mentees, who constantly teach me in reverse. Men need to join the debateAnd that’s where I think the mantra of “Lean In” needs a counter- balance. I feel uncomfortable, particularly as a leader of a design business, demanding that women take all of the responsibility for solving workplace inequality on their own. Sure, the need to push, question and self-improve is vital, but all people have the responsibility to create workplaces where those women can ourish. To become the mentors, sponsors and role models. Half of the challenge we have – 89% of it, in fact – is the current lack of women in leadership positions, who act as vital role models, and bring rst-hand experiences of their own challenges to help reshape the legacy behind them. us the cycle perpetuates. It’s a fundamental part of why Kerning the Gap is a gender neutral collective. Men aren’t the enemy – far from it. We urgently need men and women to be equal parts of the solution. Whatever your gender, if you’re in a leadership position, you need to ask yourself if you’ve pulled the ladder up behind you; if you’re doing everything you can to boost diversity (of every form) in your leadership team; if you’re mentoring the next generation to get that bloody carousel looking more balanced. And if you’re an aspiring leader, reach your hand up. Expect more. Call it out. Build your own bloody carousel, if you have to. Kerning e Gap is here to champion you.
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