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About the Author Craig Patterson grew up in the mountains of Colorado, the son of an English teacher/jazz musician and a proofreader/secretary. For two decades, he ventured out on the road as a musician and audio engineer for artists that include Don Henley, Pete Fountain, Maria Muldaur, The Temptations, The Trip Toys, President Bill Clinton, and hundreds of others, before settling into Denver as the owner of a record label and recording studio. Under his direction, the label put out a Top Ten hit and over 70 albums by dozens of artists, along with over 40 music videos, all directed and produced by Craig. With the collapse of the music industry early in the 21st Century, he pivoted to photography, using his father’s experience as his initial guide. In the years since that switch, he has become a renowned landscape and automotive photographer, with work hanging in a dozen local galleries, as well as in collections worldwide. He has also directed two feature films, and had a small part in Dumb and Dumber, which he has used as a springboard to notoriety ever since. His literary works span both the music industry and photography, each time with an eye to producing something new and unique. Craig Patterson. Vintage Auto Ystafell Auto Museum Museum Auto museums of Iceland Reykjavík Skógar Technical Text and photos © Craig Patterson, 2023 Museum Layout and design Craig Patterson Nýhöfn publishing Hveragerði 2023 www.nyhofn.com ISBN 978-9935-510-22-8 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, reproduced or transmitted in any form or by no means, without the prior permission of the author and the publisher Printing: PrintBest/Estonia 2

Craig Patterson AUTO museums of Iceland VINTAGE AUTO MUSEUM YSTAFELL AUTO MUSEUM SKÓGAR TECHNICAL MUSEUM 2023 3

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Table of Contents Introduction 6 Vintage Museum 9 Ystafell Auto Museum 69 Skógar Technical Museum 125 5

Introduction For the vast majority of Iceland’s history, automobiles, trucks, and buildings, rather than needing to resort to violence. Indeed, there is no buses didn’t exist. Residents and those passing through needed to rely need; the message sent by the egg-throwing is received loud and clear, taken only on themselves to transport goods and people, with some limited seriously by a government whose priority is its people, rather than itself. assistance from working animals. But the desire for greater commerce, communication, and reliability, just as in the rest of the world, eventually Automobiles are so ubiquitous, even in Iceland, that their history is had to outweigh the desire to do everything on their own. Cooperation forever in danger of being forgotten as unimportant. Where the typical was required in order to build even the most rudimentary trails, and museum in most of the world shows only the most rare, the most expensively wagons were built by those best versed in the arts of construction. restored, and the most powerful versions of each vehicle, the museums in Iceland take a very different and refreshing tack. Though many of the No longer could it be said that a family lived only by their own examples in all three of the museums have been restored, their increased wits and muscle. As more children needed to go to school, and more monetary value is irrelevant to the real reason they are being displayed. The production was expected from every farmer and rancher, the concept real purpose for the inclusion of virtually every item in these museums is of community and reliance upon neighbors expanded into taking not to display that model of car, but to display that one car in particular; advantage of those means of transport that were being made in other to show who owned it, how it was used, who modified it for Icelandic countries for their citizen’s own purposes. weather and needs. To show how Iceland itself was made better by virtue of having that exact car on the island. Though this reliance brought with it a certain dependence, it also brought a spirit that was much more tangible and valuable; increased From odd vehicles that led rescues, to cars that were brought over feelings of community, a better economy, and a more dependable means entirely by mistake, no other museum in the world is like the ones seen of assisting those in need. here. They show how the American military influenced the purchase of cars, along with illustrating geopolitical difficulties, as cars from Like most other modern countries, Iceland owes its current existence certain countries suddenly became nonexistent, in favor of imports from to the automobile. But instead of allowing cars and trucks to define their governments trying desperately both to curry favor with Icelanders and existence, as has occurred with many other countries, Iceland has chosen bolster their own flagging economies. Ideas for practicality and styling to use them only as a means to an end. The spirit of self-reliance lives on are borrowed, stolen, and negotiated from country to country, shown in this completely self-aware country, even as the sense of community here in vivid relief. has grown stronger than ever before. A thriving democracy lives here, assisted by a populace that doesn’t take itself too seriously, choosing Who could have known that the Icelandic Cod would cause such to demonstrate their dissatisfaction by throwing eggs at government a shift in the purchase of vehicles? Or that technology built for World 6

War I could have revolutionized rescue operations in the High Country glaciers? Icelanders knew. And they’ve had that knowledge on display for decades, teaching all those who wish to know. Those lessons don’t end with the history of the cars, however. One noteworthy truck, used as both a bus and cargo truck at the same time, shows us something else about the community spirit in this country. When the truck was found, in absolutely horrible condition, literally hundreds of locals donated their time, free of charge, for a solid seven years, to rebuild this beautiful truck, simply to be shown in the museum. There are few places in the world that would be able to martial this type of cooperative support and devotion. But in Iceland, it’s just par for the course. Though a small number of people had inhabited Iceland prior to the Vikings, the Viking spirit has traditionally permeated the land, even for those who immigrate here from other lands. Any Viking who ever set foot here would surely be proud to meet those who have descended from them so successfully. The author would like to acknowledge the inviting attitude, tremendous friendship and assistance, and genuine kindness displayed by the owners and operators of these museums. It obviously would have been impossible to create this book without their help. Their friendship and openness was a wonderful surprise. 7

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CHAPTER ONE VINTAGE AUTO MUSEUM Gunnar Kr. Þórðarson and his wife, Sólveig Jónasdóttir, Local donations of cars in amazing condition, as well had stopped working. All the way up until 2019, Gunnar have lived in a small house at this location for decades. as Gunnar’s continuing restoration projects, caused the continued to work, even as his health deteriorated. Just as for many homesteads around Iceland, a water collection to outgrow the one hall, and a second hall was There were in fact many times when he would physically supply flows graciously from the plateau above, providing opened in 2013. The current size is approximately 350 drag himself out of his wheelchair and crawl across the a supply that seems endless in the short term. Gunnar vehicles, but the number does slowly grow. In addition grounds and shop floor, in pursuit of just as much as made a nice living as a truck driver, while fixing cars to the two main halls, there is also an active shop on he could possibly do before his time to leave this Earth and trucks on the side to take advantage of his Master’s the property, where all the restoration takes place. A finally came in February 2019. Degree in Auto Mechanics. Through virtually her entire vintage diner takes care of hospitality and refreshments life, Sólveig has had a career as a primary school teacher. for up to 60 people, and there are also many examples Jonas Kristinn Gunnarsson spends much of his time He became known for being able to provide parts of all of working and non-working machinery on display here, even though he lives in Aachen, Germany, where types, when no others could be found, a result of his outside. Somewhat hidden away behind the buildings he is a pilot of cargo and civilian aircraft. He and his collecting of vehicles that might not run now, but could is the scrapyard, still called upon to provide finishing wife are building a home nearby, to make it easier for perhaps be useful down the line. touches on restorations both here and around the world. his family to visit during the summer. Many could be restored, but in order to do so, But while Gunnar’s vision is one completely of The museum is open to the public from June through a 600 square meter (6,500 square foot) building was his and Sólveig’s making. Gunnar’s brothers, Sigurmon September every year, and advance appointments are constructed, to house those items that deserved better Þórðarson who lives in Hofsós and Páll Hólm Þórðarson welcome throughout the year. protection from the elements. On June 26th, 2004, the who lives in Kópavogur, have also assisted throughout Vintage Auto Museum was officially opened, including the years in restoring many of the museum’s pieces. As the main showroom and a reception area. time marched on, Gunnar stepped back from the day- to-day operations of the museum, and allowed his sons to continue the tradition. But that didn’t mean that he 9

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1. 1923 Dodge Coupe 2. 1925 Chevrolet Sauðárkrókur. In a letter to the author of the book “Cars Previous owner: Sigurður Karlsson, Selfoss, Iceland Current owner: The family of Sjávarborg in Iceland I – 19, Árni says: Current owner: Þórður Eyjólfsson and Þórey The first passenger car in Skagafjörður. “You wish to know the cause of me bringing a car to Gunnarsdóttir, the founder’s daughter On March 16th, 1926, the county council had decided Sauðárkrókur. I must first mention my homecoming from This beautiful car is one of the oldest running cars in to establish a road fund, and an associated tax, to build the Pacific coast of America in 1907. At the time I had Iceland, though it hasn’t been here the whole time. It roads for cars all over the county of Skagafjörður. The not any experience of cars other than laying my eyes was purchased from Armand W. Masters in America on tax would cover the cost of road maintenance by the upon them. In the next year I moved to Sjávarborg. A few March 30th, 1993 by Sverrir Andrésson in Selfoss. In county council. Seven roads were approved. The first years later, the construction of the main road into the 1939, Harry G. Gullick, of Gloresville, New York, was a three were the road of Hegranes between the lakes, the countryside started. Sjávarborg sits 2 km from the main registered owner of the car. It is not documented when road of Hofsós from Brú over to the Viðvík region and road, southeast to the so-called island land. At this time, Mr. Masters bought the car, or if there were other owners Óslandshlíð to Hofsós, and the road of Blönduhlíð east there were no roads to Sjávarborg and sometimes it was between him and Mr. Gullick. of Austurós and over to the Viðvík region and Blönduhlíð even impassable by horses. A telephone line was laid to The car arrived in Iceland on April 28th, 1993, moved on the main road by Dalsá. the house in 1916 and a road in 1918-19, and my dream to Selfoss just two days later, and the restoration was Though often confused as being the end of March 1926, it was always to get a car, and I had that dream in mind begun. Not a single new part was bought for the car – all was April of that year that saw the arrival of the first car in while building the road. parts needed were either built by Sverrir himself or built Sauðárkrókur. The car was a 1925 Chevrolet, a four door “In the autumn of 1920 I went back west to the Pacific coast, for him by Icelandic contractors. covered sedan. The car’s owner was Árni Daníelsson, a planning to spend not more than a year, but my stay was The car was registered at Bifreiðaskoðun Íslands (Icelandic farmer at Sjávarborg in the Skarðshire. Árni had moved prolonged to almost five years. My first winter in America car inspection services) on May 4th, 1993, under number back to Iceland in 1925 after almost five years of living in I bought a Ford, which I owned to the spring of 1925 when EA-654. The car received its first inspection in Iceland America. He bought the car specifically to take back to I bought the car in the picture sent with this letter, drove on May 9th, 1994. Iceland, and drove it across America to New York, where it to New York and shipped it to Reykjavík at the end of The Graham brothers initially made their own trucks, it was put on a ship and shipped to Reykjavík. He arrived August of 1925. The car was a Chevrolet. We spent the beginning in 1919, but began to buy drivetrains from in Reykjavík at the end of August, 1925. winter in Reykjavík and I drove it a little at a truck station. the Dodge brothers in 1919. This partnership would The car was registered in Reykjavík on October 12th, the If my memory serves me right, it was Nýja Bifreiðastöðin, eventually become Dodge Trucks. same year, as registration RE 291. During that same year, a truck station run by Haraldur Sveinbjarnarson. In the The car‘s special equipment list is extensive, including Árni bought a new Chevrolet truck, keeping the sedan spring of 1926 I brought the car and another new Chevrolet a 12 volt electrical system, which other manufacturers as well. Both cars were moved by ship to Sauðárkrókur truck here to Sauðárkrókur. At that time, a long road had would not adopt until the 1950s. (Even Dodge went back in the spring of 1926, while Árni rode a horse. been built from Sauðárkrókur to Marbæli, or 17 km. From to using 6 volts in 1926.) The height of the headlights can The arrival of the vehicles in Sauðárkrókur was surprising, there to Grófargilsá are 6 km and that was difficult to be adjusted. The gas tank is in the car’s rear; next to the because few people living in Skagafjörður at the time drive but not impossible, and then you were 23 km from refueling opening is a gauge indicating how much gas had ever even seen a car. Historians may get confused Sauðárkrókur. is in the tank. A special vacuum tank, with a float, pulls at this point, because Árni unfortunately didn‘t convert “At one time I managed to drive all the way to Mælifell with the gas forwards to the engine and from there it runs the car registration until New Year’s 1926-1927, when the late Einar Kvaran, a 40 km drive and mostly without to the carburetor. The engine has a grease pump and the car became registered as SK – 3. A man by the name road. In the same year, Guðvarður Steinsson, truck driver, an oil-splash system. In the crankcase there is a float, of Guðvarður Steinsson had brought an old Ford to moved from Reykjavík to Sauðárkrókur with an old Ford. lifting a stick which indicates the oil level. Sauðárkrókur before Árni got a chance to convert the Those were the only cars to arrive in Sauðárkrókur for The paint was applied by BÍLASPRAUTUN SELFOSS, registration of the car, receiving the registration number the next 2-3 years. But before long I started teaching Hrísmýri 5, in Selfoss. SK – 1. Since registrations began at the number 1, it may others to drive a car and with the lessons, the number look as though Árni‘s car wasn’t the first, but in fact it of cars in Skagafjörður started to increase. I think Pétur had been in Sauðárkrókur for quite some time before Guðmundsson from Vatn was the first I taught to drive a car.” the Ford. What has happened with regard to registration (Reference: The Skagafjörður Chronicles 1847-1947) number 2 is unknown. Árni was both a District Administrative Officer and a member of the county council, and ran a business in 11

1 2. 1930 Ford Model A Previous owner: Þorsteinn Baldursson 1. 1929 Ford Current owner: Þórður Eyjólfsson Previous owner: Baldur Þorsteinsson Þorsteinn Baldursson imported this car already renovated. Current owner: The Vintage Auto Museum in Stóragerði Þórður Eyjólfsson, the father of the museum founder This was the first car owned by Baldur Þorsteinsson, but Gunnar acquired the car in 2002. the last one to drive it was Baldur‘s brother, Steinþór. The Model A, launched in 1928, was frequently called “The Steinþór was chain harrowing the fields (a process used new Ford,” superseding the Model T or “The old Ford“. to break up thatch and even out the field) and the car The Model T was a very well-liked car, but in 1926 needed to be moved because the field was so wet. sales of the car dropped, and price reductions weren’t The car stood for a long time in Vindheimar, where the helping. Competitive cars were constantly working on brothers lived, before being transported to Akureyri. higher quality and prices, and were increasingly eyed From Akureyri it was transported to the museum, on by consumers who wanted more comfort and elegance August 23rd, 2009. The car was in its current condition than the Model T had to offer. Henry Ford believed the when it arrived, with the exception of an incorrect grille. declining sales were due, not to the car itself, but to the Gunnar was able to retrieve the original Ford grille from dealers, though he eventually had to accept that the the village of Þingeyri, shipped in from Borgarfjörður. Model T had passed its prime. Ford then began extensive work on designing a new car, followed by the renovation 12 of a factory and equipment to construct the new car. Production of the Model T was discontinued in 1927, just a few days after the 15 millionth car was produced. Ford’s basic idea of the new car was that it would be fast-paced, powerful, and luxurious. It would be suitable for the increasing speed of the cities, as well as the improved road system of the country. The car would be lower, longer, and wider than Model T and available in more versions, but also in many colors. The name Model A would be used, even though the first Ford from 1903 had already used the moniker. The Model A got a four-cylinder, 201 cubic inch engine, a little bigger than the Model T, delivering 40 horsepower (double that of the T engine) at 2200 rpm, with a top speed of 105km/hr (65mph). The transmission had three unsynchronized gears, similar to the same equipment in Lincoln (which Ford had acquired in 1922), but smaller. Innovations in the car included hydraulic shock absorbers,

2 3 3. 1936 Chevrolet Current owner: Róbert Júlíusson from Hvalshöfði bumpers, automatic windshield wipers and an electric Júlíus Ingvarsson, also known as Júlli the Crane, imported starter. this truck from Oklahoma around 1988. His dream was The car was made of 5580 parts, almost all of new design, to restore it, but unfortunately he passed away before which meant huge organizational changes in factories. the work could be finished. His son, Róbert, inherited Four hundred thousand orders were received for the the truck and completed the restoration. Model A during the first year, which was unheard of at Legend has it that this very car was used to transport that time. In the spring of 1928, orders exceeded eight moonshine for the infamous Al Capone, and that the car hundred thousand. Ford sold more than two million was disguised as an oil truck during its moonshining days. Model A cars in 1929, and by 1930 the three million mark When Róbert was working on the renovation, he found a was reached. 1931 saw a drop in sales, down to 620,000 single bullet hole on the body. It was very evident from cars. In total, Ford produced almost five million Model A other evidence and wear that the car had been used for cars. Only five or six are known to exist in Iceland today. oil transportation, but a more nefarious past could not be ruled out. The car arrived at the museum in 2005. 13