BookOfPeople_200x280_EN_V2

Determination The first time Nov Dara asked the questions he would use to assess factories for two decades, it was not even at a factory. He was in a carpenter’s workshop, asking a handyman questions as if they were garment factory owners to test the assessment programme that would later become critical to Better Factories Cambodia. He remembers sweating and feeling nervous throughout the exercise. After three months of developing and “It was very, very challenging during that testing the assessment process — the first iter- time, and sometimes we were pushed by the ation of Better Factories Cambodia’s factory factory manager. At one factory I went to, I questionnaires and reports — Dara and the asked questions to them, and they were very eight initial staff members went to real garment angry with me because it seems like by the factories to test out the programme. questions they asked me, they felt they are the However, Dara and his assessment partner victims, so they pushed me out.” were not as warmly received by factories as Dara once received a complaint from he was by local shops where they practiced the a factory manager that left him discouraged, assessment. On the first visit, he remembers with the manager saying to send another telling a manager they were from ILO, but assessor — anyone but Dara. He sulked for the managers didn’t even know what the two weeks after the encounter, worried that International Labour Organization was. He his employer at that time, Lejo Sibbel, would remembers sitting under a tree with his partner fire him. When Lejo realized Dara was upset, after that first assessment, realizing they only he instead encouraged him: Lejo took this managed to ask management half the ques- kind of complaint as a sign that Dara was tions on their paper survey. performing his job properly, not giving into Some factory managers were aggressive, pressure from the management and sticking raising their voice at their pair of assessors. He to the principles of the assessment. recalls two factory managers even raising their After three or four years as an assessor, arms against Dara, in defense of his “attacks” Dara started helping programme managers on their business. develop training programmes throughout the 51

Determination late 2000s. This was Dara’s specialization: “Every time I go to a factory, they he had experience working as a technical [workers] run to me and call me trainer, taking the practical information he ‘teacher.’ They say they got a new learned from schooling and military factory role, got more money. It’s my employment in Russia back to Cambodia in the pride to see the young ladies who 1980s, but the garment industry was a different participate in trainings become field for him. He also had to navigate the supervisors.” complexities of working with different foreign advisers over the course of his career, learning Dara hopes the factories will soon be able to their workstyles and negotiating cultural differ- keep up those standards with monitoring from ences as he tried to improve upon the training Cambodian government labour inspectors programme. The training programme since has instead of the Better Factories Cambodia pro- grown to a range of topics, covering workplace gramme he’s helped shape. relations and key skills for workers, and Dara The real proof of his success as a trainer has been invited to other countries to help would be to see factories keeping up these develop Better Work curricula. standards, he says, without he or other Better Over the years, Dara says he’s watched Factories Cambodia assessors pointing out the factories transform. Sometimes there are small achievements and issues. improvements that make the factory a more “Better Factories Cambodia has been here comfortable or safe place for workers. Other for 20 years, now we want to move them up to factories have changed completely, improving sustainable compliance with the assessment, their relationship with the factory’s two unions and a culture of compliance. We do not think and gaining a major brand as a client. we’ll be in the industry for many more years.” “They do a very good job because they have good relations, they’re very keen to allow workers to participate in trainings, and they allow visits from Better Factories Cambodia and see it as a good thing,” he said. “What I see is the factory manager is very proactive. It’s moved to a friendly environment. They want to meet with us to present their initiatives to the programme.” What was more rewarding for the training leader was seeing garment workers participate enthusiastically in trainings and later use those skills to earn a promotion. 52

Above: A worker measures the seams on a pair of pants while working at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Below: Two workers work together to feed denim into a sewing machine during their shift at Zhen Tai (Garment) Cambodia. Photos: Ry Roun, July 2021

FIGURE 7 Better Factories Cambodia 2020 In 2020 the programme continued supporting garment factory workers and factory management while addressing complexities of the COVID-19 crisis, in order to sustain decent work and social justice in the sector. 597 585,764 workers in registered factories factories enrolled 260 assessments completed 83 % of workers are women 1,162 3,526 advisory visits training days FIGURE 8 Tailored COVID-19 response Raising awareness of COVID-19 prevention practices, as measured by BFC’s survey of garment workers’ experiences during the pandemic. 84 % 80 % of workers say they used social of workers say factories measured workers’ media to stay informed temperatures and encouraged frequent handwashing 74 % 66 % of workers say they received personal protective of workers say they received updates through equipment from their workplace posters or other visual communications Source figure 7: Annual Report 2020, Better Factories Cambodia (page 3, 5) Source figure 8: Survey of 374 workers between May and June 2020, Annual Report 2020 BFC

Determination H. E. Phan Phalla Secretary of State Ministry of Economy and Finance Cambodia’s garment, footwear and now travel “Better Factories Cambodia somehow has sector growth has expanded both in scope and played a constructive role in terms of inter- its compliance, said H.E. Phan Phalla, adding preting what brands want in terms of their image that Better Factories Cambodia has helped and reputation, as well as work in terms of the the country reach these achievements and situation in Cambodia’s factories,” he said. build its profile internationally. Phalla felt Better Factories Cambodia could “Cambodia has developed a reputation that further help the country promote its reputation Cambodian products are not in sweatshops, for labour compliance and improve productivity, not like other countries,” he said. “We are but it has helped the country develop labour respecting and obeying international labour inspections faster than the government could laws, we respect Cambodian labour laws, and in the industry’s early years. these laws have been properly implemented.” “I want to see some kind of transition, The garment sector helped Cambodia putting certain mechanisms in place so that industrialize through the economy’s reopening in the next 10 years, when Better Factories in the 1990s up until today, and the industry Cambodia is no longer here, the government still serves as one of Cambodia’s four economic can take over and the mechanisms in place can pillars. One of the main benefits of Better be implemented by anyone, not just Better Factories Cambodia in the industry’s deve­ Factories Cambodia.” lopment is its efforts to balance stakeholders’ needs and facilitate conversations, he said. 55

Determination Conor Boyle Head of Programme Development, Learning and Country Programmes Better Work, 2013 – present Better Factories Cambodia, 2005 – 2008 56

Determination From the beginning, it was a struggle to justify international trade access. This eager new the existence of Better Factories Cambodia. workforce was predominantly female, generally Many things about the programme were different younger and new to city life, migrating from from how the International Labour Organization rural communities to assist their families. Many operated at the time: The ILO is a Norms based were living on their own, with sisters, cousins Organisation that set important international and friends in dormitory housing and working labour standards, but BFC was about applying long hours in the heat of factories. They could those standards in the most practical way. Not earn $45 to $50 a month plus overtime wages, every factory manager was willing to let the saving enough to live and eat but sending assessment teams in, Conor recalls. When they a significant portion to families. And those did, it was begrudgingly, and the compliance remittances were transformational — families issues were sometimes met with anger. Every saved up for a motorbike, better farming year was a fight for funding. equipment or school fees for their siblings. These urbanizing women became breadwinners. “What we were doing in the practical sense was new territory, “I thought there was a lot of it was not really anticipated or opportunities to work with decided,” he says of BFC’s work. Cambodians to help improve in education, partly learning [abili- Cambodia had once been inaccessible to ties] but also management and Conor for years of his backpacking through leadership skills.” Southeast Asia, enticing but withholding as the country endured civil war following years of With that mindset, he was recruited by genocide. When he found an entry during the Better Factories Cambodia in 2005, in what 1990s, he dove in. The country was in an unrecog- became a three and a half-year career as deputy nizable state compared to today’s Cambodia. programme manager for the Phnom Penh team. The city was still scarred from multiple conflicts, Their team’s initial struggle was getting and certainly not marked by the skyscrapers through the factory gates — and then getting covering the city today, but there was an help and support from factory managers energy as people tried to start up their own once inside. But upon joining the team, Conor micro businesses or join the industrializing quickly realized what had become evident movement in the heart of Cambodia. to the Cambodian team. Assessments shed Phnom Penh was not only a perplexing, transparency on the situations in factories, exciting place for Conor, but also for the young but once the Better Factories team pointed women descending on the capital to take new out the problems, there were not many options garment factory jobs created by Cambodia’s to help willing managers to remedy them. 57

A worker sits at a sewing machine to stitch the leg of a pair of denim jeans as the assembly line at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia) progresses around her. Photo: Ry Roun, July 2021 “It had to be much more than a simple audit,” often didn’t share a language with workers. he said. “Ownership had to be placed in the Adjusting to the garment industry was a factory if we were ever going to drive sustainable whole other challenge for Conor and the change.” team at Better Factories Cambodia, who So at that point, he and the team began mostly matriculated through Labour Min- developing training programmes. The ILO of istry positions and the development sector. course had training materials and experts, but The industry was bent on making an income, these programmes were developed by white and not only did the team need to learn tech- men basing their approaches off the labour nical factory knowledge but also to under- situation in Portugal or Germany. It just didn’t stand the mindset of factory managers and work in Cambodia. the corporations buying from them. Culture was a critical factor to embrace in The cultural differences create nuanced Cambodia. The Cambodian workers were problems for workers as well. Conor recalls adjusting to city living, transitioning from arriving with colleagues at a factory once labouring in rice fields to working in a factory. early in his career for a regularly scheduled At the same time they found themselves advisory visits, only to find workers milling under scrutiny of foreign managers, who had about the factory courtyard amid a shift — higher work expectations, tight deadlines and a very unusual sight. Inside the factory, foreign 58

Determination supervisors were flitting frantically about the supervising other Cambodians, you have much building, trying to get workers back in their better workplace outcomes.” lines, but workers would not be satisfied. The key to the success of these programmes Conor recalls they eventually pieced was “the enthusiasm of my young Cambodian together the conflict. Someone found a snake colleagues, they were proud of trying to make a in the boiler room and killed it, but to workers difference in Cambodia, and they have pride to this was no ordinary snake. A foreign super- try and do things better for their own country.” visor had recently died and workers were con- That attitude was distilled into the training cerned that it was the woman reincarnated, programmes and conflict resolution, in order and the snake’s murder could release its anger. to empower the Cambodian employees to The cultural implications were lost initially learn fair treatment and safety in the work- on the foreign staff, but by figuring out the place, as well as improve their own skills and story they could call the appropriate Buddhist seek out leadership positions. monk to settle the snake’s spirit and reassure “Everything we do is about trust and workers of their safety. building strong relationships,” he said. That mentality had to start within Better By coming to understand the Factories Cambodia. Conor said cooperation varied perspectives, trainers was a strong part of the process, but also the from Better Factories Cambodia devotion from employees to their jobs, which could begin to marry the were frequently difficult. standards of foreign-owned “We have to be coaches, we have to be trainers, factories and supervisors with we have to be counselors, learn technical skills, those of Cambodian workers. understand the labour laws, industry and This also became foundational production flows, understand how multinational to elevating workers into companies work, even understand the ILO leadership positions, both gaining structure,” he said. Better Factories assessors recognition from their super­ and trainers would go back and forth in Phnom visors and serving as a better Penh traffic then facilitate difficult conversations channel between workers and over audits or workplace disputes. But Conor foreign owners. notes that there are a number of employees who have worked for Better Factories since the After developing the curriculum to fit these beginning, or learned from the team for years cultural nuances alongside his Cambodian col- before going on to shape the industry or other leagues, the team’s three trainers and a con- related development sectors. sultant trained some 5,000 workers during Though the young new recruits to Better Conor’s tenure. The results were immediate. Factories joined the team with different “We could slowly start to infiltrate the histories, beliefs and ideals, he seems that middle realm” of leadership, Conor explains. same determination and compassion among all He notes that the promoted women of course of Better Factories Cambodia staff, and gained a welcome pay raise, while workers dis- that shared mindset brings them together as covered more strength to voice their concerns a family, while driving the spirit of their work. to their superiors. “If you have Cambodians 59

Workers sit at two lines of sewing machines during a shift at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia) . Photo: Ry Roun, July 2021



Determination Jill Tucker Programme Manager Better Factories Cambodia, 2012 – 2014 62

Determination When Jill joined Better Factories Cambodia, the “The Better Factories Cambodia garment sector was bogged by challenges that in team is more experienced her view, demanded more transparency. than any individual chief technical Though child labour was believed to be eradi- advisor, and many have been cated from Cambodia’s garment factories, Jill working with Better Factories said she and the Better Factories Cambodia team Cambodia from the beginning. witnessed a significant resurgance of factories They have watched chief technical hiring underage workers, which they worked to advisors come and go and have address with the Garment Manufacturers Associ- had to adapt to each chief technical ation in Cambodia. advisor’s idiosyncrasies. In another instance, the Better Factories As a chief technical advisor, I felt Cambodia team found that a prominent I needed to listen to the wisdom garment factory supplying major European and guidance of these staff who brands shut its doors without any expla- know their country and this ILO nation, abandoning workers without termi- project better than I ever could.” nation compensation. Again, through col- laboration with stakeholders, Jill said Jill ended her term determined to leave a Better Factories Cambodia was able to help compensate workers. legacy of holding factories to higher stan- Working in an organization founded in tri-partite collaborations requires a chief dards, in order to guarantee workers are con- technical advisor both to actively listen, but also hold the mission of Better Fac- tinuously seeing positive changes in their tories Cambodia at the forefront. The local Better Factories Cambodia team and their work, safety and livelihood. extensive knowledge was vital to her role, Jill Tucker said. “I hoped to instil in the staff the mindset of challenging the status quo in order to maintain Better Factories Cambodia as a leader. We needed to acknowledge that 10 years after its founding, what had been considered a leadership position [among factories] at the beginning, was no longer viewed as leadership by many industry stakeholders.” 63

Determination Ros Harvey Programme Manager Better Factories Cambodia, 2003 – 2006 64

Determination With the impending expiration of the Multifiber and simultaneously informing workers about Arrangement (MFA) in 2004, many experts their labour rights, harassment, and social predicted the downfall of the Cambodian dialogue. garment sectors, and how thousands of It was a time of enormous change for both Cambodians would be jobless. The ILO and the industry and BFC; the programme was IFC had to urgently find new market drivers rebranding and expanding from only to replace the expiring MFA. assessment to adopt training and advisory, published a guide to Cambodian labour law “There were a lot of pressures and and moved from pen and paper to having the challenges for us, however we programme’s first cloud-based information were able to standardize the col- management system in three languages that lection of data for assessment, was designed from the ground by the BFC standardize the public reporting team. This was ground-breaking for the pro- and improve our relationship with gramme and the industry – buyers were able buyers and stakeholders – defying to see factories’ published report. expectations, employment was Ros recalled, “there were so many new ini- growing steadily, and buyers did tiatives and changes that we needed to adapt not leave Cambodia and were and work on. I admire the team who did not participating in improving working only adapt to the changes and new systems, conditions!” but for their everyday work, engagement and digging deeper to issues and compliance As employment in the garment industries issues to make real change for the industry.” grew, many more young women became the During this time, the ILO and International first of their families to get a formal job; they Finance Corporation formalised their part- were making a difference for their families. nership to support not only BFC but also to “But at the same time, these young women launch global Better Work program providing were an important pathway to information for joint funding. Ros went on to create the global their communities and families back home Better Work program which drew on many of though transferring information about HIV, the tools, experiences, and stakeholder breastfeeding, gender equalities and many support from BFC. more which were circulating in factories and Ros believes that BFC has been playing a the city at the time”. key role in contributing to the genuine under- Ros remembered that there were many standing of social dialogue, collective bar- negative perceptions from the public on gaining, and freedom of association for the women garment workers, so it was important sector; those understandings were and are to celebrate and shine a positive light on their still driving forces in building a sustainable lives. BFC team and its partners implemented industry that would continue to improve and many new initiatives including comics books, contribute to the development of civil society.  fashion shows and soap operas, a first in Cam- bodia to have movie stars reflect lives of female garment workers to millions of people through a weekly episode on the small screen 65

FIGURE 9 Key Legal Requirements on Factory Compliance Better Factories Cambodia’s public reporting initiative discloses factory compliance on key legal requirements. This report summarises the following: Critical Issues, Low Compliance Factories and Strike information. BFC has been reporting on these issues and releasing the information publicly since 2014. 21 1 20 2 19 Contracts 3 18 4 Wages 5 6 17 Occupational Safety and Health Fundamental Rights BFC measures all factories with two or more assessments 16 against 21 critical issues 15 7 14 8 13 9 10 12 11 1 No unremediated child labour 13 Workers are free not to join a union 2 No forced labour 14 Regular emergency evacuation drills 3 No discrimination against workers 4 No dismissal of pregnant workers (every 6 months) 5 No dismissal of workers during maternity leave 15 Emergency exits doors are unblocked 6 No sexual harrasment 7 Equal pay for men and women during working hours 8 No discrimination against workers 16 Emergency exit doors are sufficient 17 Dangerous machine parts have safety guards based on union membership 9 Workers can freely join and form unions (not needle guards) 10 No control of union by employer 18 Water for drinking is clean and sufficient 11 Job is not depend ent on union membership 19 Correctly paid overtime wages 12 No management interference with union 20 Correctly paid minimum wages 21 Bonuses, allowances, leave count entire employment period Source: Transparency Database Report 2020, 13th Cycle, page 3

Determination H. E. Heng Sour Secretary of State Ministry of Labour and Vocational Training H.E. Heng Sour said he had seen some significant supplemental advisory services, saying it was progress from Better Factories Cambodia and unfair to market to struggling factories, Sour the garment sector as a whole in the time he’s said that Better Factories Cambodia provided interacted with the organization through the crucial insight and helped develop strategy for Ministry of Labour and Vocational Training. the industry’s growth. Better Factories Cambodia was a key agency “We want the industry to grow smoothly and to start supporting Cambodian government-­ share the benefits to the workers to increase their employed labour inspectors, and the ministry is well being,” he said. “Whenever there is a new preparing to take over the role of inspecting guideline or new issue arising, we come to the labour conditions based on lessons learned negotiations and Better Factories Cambodia can from Better Factories’ 20 years of experience. be a resource center to provide the reference “We still have a long way to go,” he said, material on Cambodia’s long running industry. but noted that the ministry is preparing its Through the years, Better Factories Cambodia resources to assume this role. “We still will has created a legacy both in the country and keep implementing monitoring mechanisms abroad, Sour said. “Thanks to the successful and the transparency culture established by experience in Cambodia, I think other garment Better Factories Cambodia through our producing countries are also supporting the labour inspectors,” he said. Better Work programme.” Though he objected to the programme’s 67

A worker writes on a white board during a learning session for garment workers at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Photo: Ry Roun, July 2021

Inspiration 69

Inspiration Tun Sophorn National Project Coordinator 2008 – present Better Factories Cambodia, 2001 – 2004, 2006 – 2007 70

Inspiration Sophorn feels Better Factories Cambodia were not receptive, he would be tasked with has made incredible progress — all the more meeting them. Through these interactions, impressive because he remembers the first Sophorn started to pick up on some clues days of its first project, when it was untrodden behind noncompliance and conflicts: some of territory for Cambodia and the International the factory owners and supervisors had Labour Organization in general. a stricter tone that concerned Cambodian “When we started the assessments, I workers, and they were very focused on remember we were starting from scratch,” said meeting metrics. Sophorn, who was the coordinator for the project So Sophorn started to understand how to team that became Better Factories Cambodia. The mediate: factory management were more team had a lot of tools to develop its assessment willing to change their practices when provided standards, but the project was entirely different clear paths to improvements, with bite-sized from what ILO previously did in Cambodia — and inexpensive fixes that can add up to creating jobs, from infrastructure and roadworks improve the workplace. Through talking, to maintenance and hospitality at the newly Sophorn saw the factory managers appre- opened Angkor Archaeological Park. ciated honesty, and they were eager to improve Team members brought different knowledge their businesses too. “When they came and sat to the project: while Sophorn had the labour down with us, we gave them the facts, and told sector knowledge from his previous work with them that if they really want to improve, ILO, others had practical or industry knowledge we can give some advice.” Some of these that was new to him. factories, who Sophorn believed would have “I remember that not everyone, including stayed in Cambodia temporarily, have put labour inspectors, understood the provisions down roots and improved. Sophorn called it of the Cambodian Labour Law and provisions inspiring: of international labour standards.” To this day, Sophorn keeps a box of the case “You can see the factories grow files from his time at Better Factories Cambodia, and they keep growing, and recalling the pages upon pages he would print they’re not just growing in terms and present to garment factories, especially of staff and production but the cases where he had to step in. in terms of labour rights and Once the assessors were trained on what compliance improvements.” to look for, the hard part became approaching, and sometimes confronting, factory management. At the same time, Better Factories Cambodia Sophorn said he was going over notes from the as a whole realized the programme needed to pairs of assessors sent to check on Cambodia’s assist its stakeholders and help them improve factories, and when factory management their business or working conditions. 71

Inspiration Above: A worker examines flannel jackets produced at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia) during her shift. Page 69: Workers sit in rows and sew flannel jackets during their shift at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Photos: Ry Roun, July 2021 Better Factories Cambodia left not only an transparency from its factories, Sophorn claims. imprint on Sophorn, but ILO’s programming and Now as the country coordinator for ILO, Cambodia as a whole. He takes pride in the show Sophorn said he is thrilled to watch Better of support he consistently saw from H.E. Cham Factories Cambodia grow into a holistic Prasidh, then the Minister of Commerce. In programme working for all stakeholders, from 2005, when the U.S. ended its quota system for workers to international buyers. He sees Better buying garments — and the labour requirements Factories Cambodia as an inspiration, not only needed to participate in the programme — to Cambodia’s development but also to other Sophorn recalls the industry expressed frus- industrializing nations, who are adopting the tration that they were subjected to the assess- Better Work programme to open dialogue and ments for several years only to see the increase transparency as Cambodia has. programme expire. However, the minister However, he aspires to see Better Factories strongly supported Better Factories Cambodia Cambodia come to a close in another decade, and encouraged the project to continue, as he believes that Cambodia’s factories, believing that Cambodia could be competitive in governments and workers have the potential the industry by guaranteeing due diligence and to sustain these gains on their own. 72



FIGURE 10 Core Services of Better Factories Cambodia Through years of direct experience with factories and brands, BFC has developed an approach to help factories achieve real improvement in their operations and labour conditions. THE FACTORY CYCLE months 1 – 3 end of month 4 end of month 5 months 4 – 12 end of month 11 Improvement Assessment Progress Continued Progress through and report report 1 advisory report 2 bipartite committees BETTER WORK CAMBODIA Initial advisory Assessment Continued service and report advisory service After a factory An unannounced The advisory after registers and pays factory visit will be assessment focuses for services, one carried out about on responding of Better Factories 100 days after the issues identified Cambodia’s service starts, in the self-diagnosis Enterprise Advisors it will provide an and assessments, makes the first overview of factory and continuing visit, the factory performance to build capacity will need to against International and ownership. complete its own Labour Standards self-diagnostic of and national labour issues to work on. laws. FACTORY Progress Reports 1 Progress Reports 2 The factory will Better Factories write its first Cambodia will progress report write a second in the fifth month progress report of the cycle and in the eleventh create an improve- month of the cycle ment plan for issues on the progress identified during of resolving non- self-diagnosis, with compliances, verification and management support from systems and sound Better Work. dialogue. Better Work’s factory improvement process focuses on three main service pillars: LEARNING TRAINING ASSESSMENT For factories that wish to improve Better Factories Cambodia’s cata- Factory assessments are required their working conditions and logue of training courses offer for every exporting garment and compliance issues, Better Factories practical education on a range of footwear factory in Cambodia, so Cambodia takes factory managers skill-building and compliance-­ Better Factories Cambodia offers through an individualized advisory related topics, tailored both to standardized, comprehensive audits programme in order to identify factory workers as well as super­ in order to succinctly monitor the challenges and make step-by-step visors and managers in order to industry. Two-person auditor teams, improvements to their workplaces. improve factory operations across trained to identify improvements as The consultations are supplemented the board. Courses cover occupa- well as issues, visit factories un­ by Industry Seminars,where factories tional health and safety matters like announced and conduct inspections, can learn best practices from their electrical and fire safety or proper which are documented in a Compliance peers and collaboratively take on handling of chemicals, as well as Assessment Tool, paired with the compliance challenges in the sector. workplace relations and communi- factory’s own reports for a trans- cation skills. parent, sweeping appraisal. Source: Better Work Guide for Brands and Retailers, March 2021

Inspiration Pauline Tamesis Resident Coordinator United Nations in Cambodia Better Factories Cambodia has evolved from they were sourcing from factories that were an experimental audit programme into a fair and complied with labour laws. But the partnership facility that offers a range of collaborative team of Better Factories evidence-based policy advisory and training Cambodia has evolved extraordinarily beyond services supportive of the nation’s garment its original mandate. Over the years, Better industry. BFC services have driven the Cam- Factories Cambodia adopted various initiatives bodian garment sector to grow and thrive and capacity building to accelerate opportu- through close collaboration with national and nities for workers to take on supervisory international stakeholders, while enabling roles. BFC also facilitated responsive conver- workers to engage in open dialogue with man- sations between factory management and agement for safer working conditions and workers through conflict mediation. While the empowerment to advance their careers. scope of the project initially targeted to meet The garment industry has served as the the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of foundation of Cambodia’s economic growth decent work and responsible consumption and since the country reopened under the United production, BFC now encompasses a wider Nation’s Transitional Authority in Cambodia, range of goals, including gender equality, good and as such, has opened up a range of health, and quality education. livelihood opportunities for young workers, The United Nations in Cambodia is proud to predominantly women, eager to support support Better Factories Cambodia through themselves and their families. Initially, the its 20 year journey and looks forward to programme started as a requirement for strengthening engagement in its next phase Cambodia-based factories seeking to export of facilitating a future-facing and sustainable goods. Working with BFC assured brands that garment industry in the country. 75

Inspiration Ourn Sophea General Manager Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia), 2005 – present 76

Inspiration In between the workers, unions and manage­ to a worker who’s threatening to quit, knowing m­ ent at Phnom Penh’s Zhen Tai Garment they might be on the verge of a breakdown. factory sits Sophea, who’s served in factory Sometimes, Sophea said she intervenes in human resources for her entire 21-year career issues that aren’t related to the factory. “One and now works as the general manager. Her 16 day, while I was walking around and checking years of employment at Zhen Tai have required their work, I saw a woman wearing black sun- her to develop a great deal of patience and lis- glasses. I asked her, ‘What’s wrong? Why are tening skills in order to manage these com- you wearing black sunglasses to work today?’ peting interests. In some cases, she feels that She took the glasses off and told me that, ‘I was her position requires a lot of effort from her, hit by my husband.’ I feel sympathy,” she said. In mentally and personally, to suit each party’s cases of domestic violence, she tries to intervene goals, and she can’t always please everyone. where she can, but her biggest challenge is But she’s come to stand up for herself and prin- making workers comfortable enough to report ciples of a good workplace, especially when she the crime to her. feels factory workers deserve better benefits Sophea said her strength and bravery, even in than they’re receiving. a difficult situation, has been a defining factor of her career. As a 17-year-old, she started working “I feel that if I’m afraid to talk as a secretary for two sister factories in Phnom to the factory director, there will Penh, and when the owner of Zhen Tai met her at be people looking down at the her previous workplace, he was impressed by her workers, especially the department ability to stand up to the Chinese nationals who managers. So I had to be brave were superior to her, and Sophea was hired by and talk with the director.” Zhen Tai not long after in 2005. She concedes that she was sometimes She considers herself a major advocate for mean to the garment workers in her first few workers’s wages, trying to ensure that the years, recalling how she frequently had con- employees are paid fairly and promptly. Even flicts with union employees. However she this can be difficult to do, she notes as the eventually started taking a softer approach factory owner wants to keep as much money in and listening closely to the workers’ desires — the bank as possible to accrue interest. But a development she attributes partially to trainings the workers are happier and perform better provided by Better Factories Cambodia and when they can get their salary promptly on the other entities like the Garment Manufacturers day it’s promised, or for pregnant workers, Association of Cambodia. Other administrators receive money before they go into labour. She’s had seen that she was up to the challenge of also helped workers individually request and higher management, and she was promoted negotiate for vacation time, or offered a break into the administrative level. 77



Inspiration Above: Ourn Sophea stops to converse with a worker as he folds and inspects clothing produced at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Page 74: Ourn Sophea stops to speak with a worker at a sewing machine, placing a hand on the worker’s shoulder, during a shift at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Photos: Ry Roun, July 2021 These trainings also came to benefit the by the different working and learning styles of general workers’ population to advance their another country. careers. Prior to 2014, most of the people con- That’s not to say that her job is easy now, trolling the factory’s departments were foreign and negotiating between workers, unions and nationals, but the workers were also starting to management can be a lot of pressure, she says. take leadership and management courses, and perform well in the elevated positions. “Sometimes, some people think “Eventually, we asked the owner what was that I’m unfair to them,” she said. the point of hiring Chinese people, if Cambo- “They would say, I’m more on dians also can do the jobs and we also don’t the union’s side and that of the need translators. Plus, working with Cam- workers, and sometimes they bodian people is easier than working with think I’m on the owner’s side. But Chinese since we speak the same language I guess they must have overlooked and know the culture.” what I have done for them.” Since then the staff, now at 1,700 workers, is mostly led by Cambodian nationals, which Sophea says she was close to a burnout point Sophea says has helped solve some of the dis- in 2017. However, The Deutsche Gesellschaft putes and prevent workers from being upset für Internationale Zusammenarbeit GmbH (GIZ) 79

Inspiration Ourn Sophea walks in between lines of workers at their sewing machines during a shift at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Photo: Ry Roun, July 2021 had sent her on a learning trip in Germany, and the future and learn from more advanced she returned refreshed and better able to cope garment sectors like those in Japan. with stress. Both of those feelings were “I think it’s good for me to go see other strengthened by the help from her team of five countries and see how they work, like support staff and her personal pride in helping Thailand, Vietnam, so I can come back with workers. new strategies,” she said. Stress has inevitably returned because of But Sophea said she’s proud of all the rights the pandemic, and she’s lost sleep over fear and resources she’s been able to achieve for that someone may break into the factory, and Zhen Tai’s workers, from higher wages and lost weight from working too much. benefits to a reading library and learning In the future, she hopes to see conditions opportunities to advance their careers. continue to improve for Zhen Tai workers, hoping to see them use less plastic in their packed lunches, become more disciplined and ideally, strive for and achieve superior jobs in the factory. Sophea also believes she could use further instruction, hoping to travel again in 80

Inspiration Ath Thorn President Cambodian Labour Confederation For Ath Thorn, Better Factories Cambodia Though conditions have improved at larger introduced a tool that has proven powerful for mainstream factories, Thorn said there’s still unions’ advocacy work. The Transparency a range of subcontracted factories that Database and its record of low- and noncom- supply to major brands. These factories need pliant factories backs up unions’ claims, often to follow International Labour Organization reflecting when a union has sour relations with standards, but they often fall outside the factory management. scope of Better Factories Cambodia, and as a “The programme is very important to the result, the brands too. union to show the noncompliant companies, Overall Thorn said the garment sector is so we can push the companies to do more” by better off having Better Factories Cambodia advocating to brands, he said. monitor the sector as a third-party entity, After 20 years of existing, Thorn said that even if it cannot hold companies accountable Better Factories Cambodia should be doing for their shortcomings. more for the workers. The training programmes “I think this initiative is very useful for the are mostly done on the factory’s terms, Thorn countries like us, a not-so-developed country, said, adding he felt independent union repre- where there’s more cheating or corruption,” he sentatives were kept out of the development said. “I think if possible should include the other of these trainings. “Better Factories Cambodia sectors, like hotels or other businesses that only goes through the companies, so also have a lot of labour relations challenges.” sometimes we forget we’re a part of it.” 81

Inspiration Sor Chanthy Sewing Operator Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia), 2005 – present 82

Inspiration When Chanthy’s husband died in the early A supervisor soon picked up that Chanthy 2000s, working as a farmer was no longer had learned to sew, and she proved herself sustainable for her and her two children. She capable with a machine, so the worker was pro- left her children, three and five years old at moted to sewer — a job she’s now held for over the time, back with her parents in Pursat a decade. province to try to find some income for them. Chanthy’s personality and achievements “Back then, I only came by myself from Pursat seemed to inspire her peers, who elected her province and I tried to put a resume into a lot to represent them in negotiations among of factories. Finally, I got a job here.” factory stakeholders. She became a workers’ “It was important that I was able to find this representative during the social dialogue job, otherwise as a farmer I couldn’t provide for between factory management, union represen- my family,” she says. Through farmwork, she tatives and workers. When workers face an would only be able to reap the benefits of a issue that needs resolving, she helps negotiate harvest once per year, but in Phnom Penh as a with the factory using mediation skills she garment factory worker, she could work year learned through different trainings. round and earn extra money with overtime. Chanthy says she’s not only happy to represent She soon found that she could do more than the workers, but she also considers management just cover her children’s expenses: Chanthy to be receptive and respectful. Over the paid for their schooling, sent money to her years, the social dialogue has improved, and parents, and eventually bought them a house management have provided wages on time and other nice things. She even could pay off all and extra benefits, showing they are working her loans and tell her elderly parents to stop hard to fit the workers’ needs. working, because she could earn sufficient “They’re handling everything very well at this income to support them. factory. In some big situations, I understand the factory owner, he says there are a lot of After 16 years at Zhen Tai, Chanthy workers and it takes time to work through says she’s come to appreciate certain problems, but if there’s any immediate the opportunities the factory has problems, the factory is very accommodating provided for her, mostly through and able to address it.” increased income, but also through Chanthy has never thought of changing her the trainings and a leadership employment to another factory, and she thinks position of her own. many of her peers are similarly happy with their workplace. Chanthy’s first job entailed clamping and sewing buttons onto the blue jeans assembled “The last thing I want to say is that at Zhen Tai factory, but she started eyeing I’m thankful for the factory, because a job as a sewer, where she could earn more I started as a single mother, and money with more skilled work. On her lunch through the factory I was able to breaks in the first years, Chanthy would support my family, especially quickly eat her packed meal and then ask a my children. Without it, I wouldn’t colleague who worked as a sewer if she could be able to do so.” teach the new employee. 83

Sor Chanthy, center, sits among the rows of workers cutting and sewing clothing for sale in foreign markets during her shift at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Photo: Ry Roun, July 2021



FIGURE 11 Better Factories Cambodia Starting from 20 factories under the programme in 1995, Better Factories Cambodia has expanded to assist hundreds of factories nationwide with assessments, advisory services and trainings. Banteay Meanchey Siem Reap Pursat Prey Veng Kampong Chhnang Koh Kong Kampong Cham Kandal Phnom Penh Kampong Speu Svay Rieng 577 Sihanouk Ville Kampot 614,242 Workers Factories FIGURE 12 Worldwide With the success of Better Factories Cambodia, Better Work is established and currently operating in 12 countries. Egypt Jordan Pakistan Bangladesh Haiti Cambodia Nicaragua Vietnam Ethiopia Sri Lanka Indonesia Madagaskar 1,700 2,400,000 Workers Factories Source figure 11 + 12: www.betterwork.org

Inspiration Sean Jung Regional Director, Supplier Sustainability Southeast Asia & North Asia, Global Sustainability, Gap Inc. Gap Inc. has been an ardent supporter of Better Factories Cambodia for two decades, since the early days of the programme’s launch in Cambodia. We have partnered closely with Better Factories Cambodia over several years to build the capacity of workers and employers to improve working conditions and make our supply chain more sustainable. We have seen firsthand that factories subscribed with Better Factories Cambodia consistently increase compliance with International Labour Organization’s core labour standards and the national labour law. Better Factories Cambodia’s success in driving improvements within factories in Cambodia is due to the trust they have built with stakeholders across the sector, having proven themselves to be independent, effective, and adaptable. 87

Inspiration Why BFC The heart of Better Factories Cambodia is its team, which has grown from around a dozen assessors to a coalition of 50 dedicated employees. Employees come in with great dreams to see Cambodia’s garment workers empowered and the economy strengthened, and they achieve it through their determination and integrity on the job. It takes a great deal of collaboration to reach Better Factories Cambodia’s goals, but the team’s achievements over 20 years are truly inspirational. Khut Chhornsocheata Enterprise Assessor-Advisor, joined in 2014 I have been working for BFC for more than seven years, and I have never thought of leaving this job because I think that I am doing the right task at the right place. BFC is my second family. Being an Enterprise Assessor- Advisor, I can share my experiences and knowledge concerning Cambodia’s Labour Law and International Law to individuals as well as the sector as a whole. I am proud to take part in improving working conditions in the garment industry. Keo Daramongkol Communications Officer, joined in 2020 Before joining BFC, in 2019, I worked with BFC on a video project; it was my first time in a factory! My interviews with the workers and employers sparked my eagerness to learn more about the industry and Better Factories Cambodia. I was amazed by how BFC has contributed to the garment industry for over 20 years, and I am so proud to be a part of this team and able to work closely with a very passionate team! Kang Ditine Team Leader Advisory, joined in 2010 BFC is a learning-focused organization, and I would like to contribute my knowledge and skills for improvements in a sustainable way in the garment, footwear, and travel goods industries as well as their relevant stakeholders. Nov Dara Team Leader Training, joined in 2001 I like working directly with factory workers, unions and management, to make changes for better livelihoods and business. I am happy when I see the factories have more orders for workers to work on … and workers can earn more for their families. I want to see management and workers sit in the same meeting room and discuss ways to improve their factory. I am also happy when I can provide trainings, and participants can then apply those experiences in the factory and in their communities. 88

Inspiration Jenny Anne Hickey Deputy Programme Manager, joined in 2020 I first came to BFC as a communications consultant in 2016 and was blown away by the passion of the people I was working with. I love what BFC stands for, the history of the programme and all it has achieved over the past 20 years. But for me above all else (and I think for many others too), what keeps me going is the incredible BFC team and their drive to make things better for the garment workers in Cambodia. It could be described as infectious. Hin Kunthea Enterprise Assessor-Advisor, joined in 2014 I wanted to challenge my abilities by working with an international organization, and I was also looking for a job with better pay. The reason why I stayed with BFC is because of good team work, professional skill development and colleagues with different remarkable talents. I have learned a lot. Thank you so much BFC and ILO. Nang Narith Team Leader Assessment, joined in 2001 I want to help improve working conditions, workers’ safety, promote business and improve industrial relations. BFC is my second home and I’ve made it my mission to work with the team and help the industry. Yin Sarom Advisor / Assessor, joined in 2018 After joining, I found that Better Factories Cambodia is more than an institution. It upholds a high standard of core values and instils a respectful, friendly working environment for staff members… When I look around, I see many pioneers, innovators, and executors who have been instrumental in the existence of Better Factories Cambodia over the last two decades. They are winners that a novel member like me wished to be part of. Ly Sokheng Enterprise Assessor, joined in 2014 BFC promotes not only safety, health, and wellbeing of thousands of workers, but also builds good businesses in Cambodia. I am extremely proud to be part of this great journey! Kong Chanmalis Enterprise Assessor, joined in 2017 BFC is my dream workplace, and my dream came true when I joined this organization in 2017. BFC has a special role to help and support improvements in factory working conditions, and the garment industry has help improve the livelihoods of thousands of people in Cambodia. BFC is my favourite workplace, and I am so proud of this programme and my colleagues. BFC has provided me a lot of knowledge on the garment industry, as well as social and working life. 89

Inspiration Why BFC Phan Lida Enterprise Assessor, joined in 2013 I want to continue helping to reduce poverty rates among workers and creating more job opportunities for Cambodians. Chhay Chansopheaktra Enterprise Assessor-Advisor, joined in 2013 Being able to work in one of the UN agencies has been the dream since I was in university. My thesis for my bachelor’s degree in law was about improving labour conditions in the textile sector, showing my interest in ILO and BFC. After joining BFC, I have realized even more that the BFC’s mission and core values contribute massively to the industry to create much better working conditions, compared to that of other sectors. That’s why I am still with BFC for more than eight years. Lay You Hong Enterprise Assessor, joined in 2001 I stay with BFC because I enjoy seeing year-to-year improvements in the Cambodian garment industry through BFC’s contributions. Van Somery IT Assistant, joined in 2018 BFC is the best place. I can support the factory workers to build a better life for themselves and improve working conditions in the garment industry. Koy Visedh Enterprise Assessor, joined in 2012 When I first learned about the position with BFC, I was already very interested because I’ve wanted to work closely with workers and bring long-lasting changes for the garment industry. I really appreciate BFC for giving me this opportunity. Sin Sokunthea Admin Secretary, joined in 2016 I decided to join BFC because of its noteworthy vision and appreciable mission that impressed me. Chov Sokha Advisor/Assessor, joined in 2011 I am proud to have been working with BFC for around 10 years. I find that BFC is the organization that strictly maintains its integrity at all levels. With its highest integrity, BFC has been recognized and continued to play an important role in delivering assessment and advisory services for the garment and footwear industry in Cambodia for 20 years and more. Sambath Solida Admin Assistant-CS, joined in 2021 I want to be a small part that could help Cambodian labourers to get better work, wages and labour rights. 90

Inspiration Ung Sokrethyuthea Trainer / Advisor, joined in 2016 The Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh led me to think of health and safety practices in Cambodian industries. That’s why I committed to join Better Factories Cambodia: to protect workers and employers from unforeseen disasters. Chea Sophal Team Leader Assessment, joined in 2004 I am very proud to be part of BFC and thus contribute to the garment sector by ensuring decent work, worker empowerment, industry competitiveness and capacity building for national constituents. More importantly, I have been keen to take part in BFC’s strategic development of programme direction, ranging from internal streamlining tracking systems, visualizing data for policy / regulation changes, and promoting culture of compliance in the industry. Ut Titpovpanhavatey Office Support Assistant, joined in 2020 I love Better Factories Cambodia. Besides the values and principles set up, this organization keeps their people as the center of the organization’s success. Tho Thida Trainer / Advisor, joined in 2019 I would stay with BFC because it’s a transparent institution that promotes decent work; it has good organizational management and human resource management; and it’s a good working environment for both management and colleagues. Seng Nam Advisor / Assessor, joined in 2021 By being part of Better Factories Cambodia, it opens an opportunity for me to be involved in a job that could create a tremendous positive impact in not only the fashion and textile sector, but also the livelihoods of hundreds of thousands of Cambodian factory workers. At a personal level, Better Factories Cambodia has taught me the skills to be a good auditor, facilitator, as well as to make positive changes as an individual… I do not know how far I will go, but I am sure that I will enjoy every second of it. Lim Vimol Database Management and Business Relations, joined in 2013 The Better Factories Cambodia team members are not only colleagues, but we are like one big family. People respect and appreciate each other. 91

Envisioning the Future Sara Park Programme Manager Better Factories Cambodia, 2017– present 92

Envisioning the Future Cambodia’s garment industry has leapt ahead, The foreign directors come and go, but endured crises and repaired its flaws over the a number of the staff had stayed for five to past 20 years. Through its peaks and perils, 10 years, and a handful had been with the the garment industry needed different support programme since its beginning. for its different problems, and Better Factories Cambodia has aimed to remain stern but fair. It’s unique to see that long of a At the beginning, the noncompliance flags commitment to an organization, were numerous, as factories were adjusting to and she felt it was not only the the idea of unannounced assessments. As time stable job, but the sense of passion went on and those initial problems were fixed, from the team as well as the the issues inside factories became more industry that drives them. nuanced and required more substantial change both to individual factories and Cambodia’s Better Factories Cambodia has witnessed industry, while global market shifts could favour changes among its team members in recent or upend garment manufacturing at any years. The programme — long led by some of moment. its earliest employees, well-weathered in In such a climate, Better Factories Cambodia the system — hired a number of young, highly cannot be devoted to any one party, but rather motivated and passionate employees, who attune itself to the needs and wants of workers, have brought new ideas and culture to the trade unions, factories, brands and government, organization. Though tensions can arise, and identify the common goal among them. In Sara has noticed that under this new dynamic its simplest form, that goal is better factories. the team has become more agile, balancing In practice, this is not a simple position, Sara the institutional wisdom with innovation and says, and her team and predecessors could inspiration. attest to the same. Regardless of the difference in age or As the chief technical advisor at Better perspective, the conviction to improving Factories Cambodia’s 20-year anniversary, the garment industry — and thus improving Sara notices that the leaders in her role had Cambodia — is strong among every member adapted to fit the era in the garment industry, of the team. or maybe were adeptly selected for their jobs. “What I’ve seen during these four years is that At this time, she sees stakeholders coming in this work, people do become very personal in together aiming to build off each others’ a way, because it’s part of their life.” strengths and boosting their combined The garment, footwear and travel goods capacity. During her tenure as the programme sector has proven a sustainable path for leader, she’s hoped to support these endeavors. people, especially women, support themselves What keeps the programme driving forward and their family, and the industry offers new is the Better Factories Cambodia team. The paths for its workers to grow and Cambodia’s 50 staff, almost all Cambodian nationals, economy to diversify as well. constantly travel between factories to “Many have family members that work manage assessments and trainings, while in the garment sector, they have lived in a adapting to the world’s challenges like the community where there are lots of garment Covid-19 pandemic. workers, we also see them going to work 93

Envisioning the Future on this commuting, so it’s part of life in recovering from the COVID-19 pandemic and its shocks to global trade, while onboarding Cambodia, inevitably it becomes everybody’s new forms of automation and technology that could upend the number of labourers needed life in a way.” and require serious reimagining of light manufacturing. Having this strong core team has helped As Sara sees it, the future of Cambodia’s garment industry relies on its ability to remain Better Factories Cambodia improve its rela- competitive, but she feels confident in the fact that all stakeholders in the industry — from tionship with its stakeholders, despite their vast workers up to international brands — want this future for Cambodia. differences in opinion. During her tenure, Sara Better Factories Cambodia’s neutrality, transparency and the networks that those and the team made a point of listening closely to values have facilitated have sustained its success for two decades. But the programme the concerns of the parties in the garment was built on the principle of sustainability, and thus, the 20th anniversary marks a step toward industry, playing into the shared goal of a robust the programme’s end. At this point, the mandate of Better Factories garment industry that can benefit Cambodia. Cambodia is planned to end in the future, and Sara hopes to maintain that plan. However this Those commonalities can guide the industry expected end will be more of a triumph, Sara believes, as it would show that Cambodia’s through the differences between workers, garment industry has built the checks, balances and determination to monitor itself on its own, unions, factories, government and brands. rather than requiring an independent assessor and guide. “When you have a common goal, when you can set a common target, you may have different opinions but you really see the stakeholders are also interested in improving the industry. You have something you can look forward to together, and that’s what makes it nice to be in this job, when you can really see we are all on the same page and we have the same goals and plan that we can follow.” The improvements in the early years came quickly, and once the stakeholders became accustomed to the idea of factory assessments, it became a powerful tool for factories to improve their operations, unions to raise concerns and brands to understand their suppliers. In this way, Cambodia largely eliminated global dilemmas for the industry like child labour. However, improving the industry further becomes a daunting task after it has progressed thus far. The garment, footwear and travel goods industry is again facing momentous shifts, 94

A worker inspects a sewing machine at the end of the line during the lunch break at Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Photo: Ry Roun, July 2021

Workers take walks and buy food along the railroad tracks outside Zhen Tai Garment (Cambodia). Photo: Ry Roun, July 2021



Milestones Better Factories Cambodia 2010 2016 2010 – present More than 1,000 designs submitted BFC, brands and partners establish to “I Am Precious” design Transportation Working Group (TWG). competition, with 20 sketches transformed to clothes. Better Work adopts new brand. BFC’s Supervisory Skills BFC celebrates 15-year anniversary Programme trains 2,500 workers with exhibition and event. to take leadership roles and boost productivity as supervisors. Ministry of Economy and Finance and BFC begin developing Cambodia’s first Garment Sector Development Strategy, focusing on behavior change and gender inclusiveness through collaborations with workers, brands and factories. 2011 2014 BFC’s Garment Worker Open BFC creates Transparency Database University and Supervisor system to share data to the Cambodian College programmes provide government on factories’ compliance with labour law education to Cambodian and global labour standards. 4,000 workers and supervisors. 2012 2017 Workers share knowledge and A Joint Action Plan for improving and advice to tackle fainting issues sustaining good factory conditions is through BFC’s “Experts developed between the Ministry of Labour by Experience” programme. and Vocational Training and BFC. 2013 The ILO, the Ministry of Commerce, the Ministry of Labour and Vocational Training, and the Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia sign a new Memorandum of Understanding for BFC programme, aiming to consolidate improvements in working conditions and competitiveness in Cambodia’s garment industry. Milestones 2010 2015 Garment Industry 2013 2016 Percent of factories on US generalized specification low-compliance list falls to 10%. of preferences expands to travel goods.

2018 BFC launches a platform with constituents and brand partner representatives – the Building Bridges Programme – to facilitate dialogue in public and private sectors. BFC facilitates discussion to develop future Joint Plan for Sustainable Compliance, engaging stakeholders to ensure sustainability and competitiveness of Cambodia’s garment sector. BFC publishes first Gender Strategy to improve gender equality in the sector. 2019 Travel goods and bag factories added to BFC’s assessment mandate in latest MoU between the Royal Government of Cambodia, GMAC and ILO (BFC). 2020 BFC and GMAC develop curriculum and hold trainings on child labour prevention. 2021 In the face of a pandemic and unpresented economic shocks, BFC consolidates efforts with partners in the Cambodian government, GMAC, WHO, factories, unions and brands to ensure recovery and resilience amid COVID-19 outbreaks. BFC holds its 20th anniversary. 2020 2025 2018 2020 Percent of factories EU partially withdraws Cambodia’s duty-free, on low-compliance list quota-free access to EU market for some drops to 2%. products due to serious and systemic concerns on human rights and labour rights in the country.