Fashion, dress, and post-postmodernism

FASHION, DRESS AND ~ ©®U0 ~©®U MODERNISM EDITED BY JOSE BLANCO F. & ANDREW REILLY BLOOMSBURY

CONTENTS List of Illustrations vii Notes on Contributors ix Acknowledgements xii Introduction 1 Andrew Reilly 1 Fashion phenomena and the post-postmodern condition: Inquiry and speculation 9 Marcia A. Morgado 2 Fashion, subjectivity and time: From Deleuze's transcendental empiricism to Lipovetsky's hypermodernity 39 Eun Jung Kang 3 With no twist: The metamodern sartorial statement of Vetements 51 Alla Eizenberg 4 Intensified: Alessandro Michele's hyperaesthetic at Gucci 75 Nigel Lezama 5 Hypermodern branding: The case of Uniqlo 99 Myles Ethan Lascity

ILLUSTRATIONS Figures 1.1 Marcus Coates, Firebird, Rhebok, Badger and Hare, 2008 13 1.2 Vanessa Beecroft, VB45-007, DR, 2001 22 1.3 A promotional photo shoot for the new Marc Jacobs beauty line at Sephora 22 1.4 Gregg Asher in a sequined Lanvin tunic, white Marc Jacobs trousers and Miu Miu high-heel sandals at the 2011 Art Ball sponsored by the Dallas Museum of Art 23 1.5 Steampunk appearances, with their unusual blend of neo-Victorian, neo- Edwardian and military styles accented with parts and pieces of retro technology 26 1.6 The charmingly haphazard visual effect and exaggerated use of fashion as costume in Japanese street styles 28 3.1 Yanis Vlamos, Vetements SS 2016 - green tracksuit with Vetements logo in Champion font 62 3.2 Yanis Vlamos, Vetements SS 2016 - the OHL T-shirt 64 4.1 Autumn/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear Collection 'The Alchemist's Garden', Look 1 81 4.2 Resort 2020 Collection, Look 57 83 4.3 Autumn/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear Collection 'The Alchemist's Garden', Look 19 85 4.4 Eric B. and Rakim's Follow the Leader album cover 92 4.5 Resort 2018 Collection, Look 83 94 5.1 Initially called the 'Heattech Tunnel', this area of the Fifth Avenue flagship store features Ultra Light Down products in October 2018 107 5.2 A digital advertising screen stands in front of the staircase in the Herald Square store in October 2018 108 5.3 A promotional display for Ultra Light Down products in the Fifth Avenue flagship store advertises the product's ability to withstand wind gusts 113 6.1 Photo from Cheena Chappra's collection Revivalist at Fashion Pakistan Week 2018 131

'At a time of radical transitions, this fresh, authoritative and critically engaging volume brings together original contributions that address this philosophical concept and its impact on the ways that fashion and dress are perceived and consumed.' Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New Zealand 'A rich theoretical exploration of contemporary fashion with a good breadth of scope that encompasses exhibition and performance. Examining many of the issues pertinent to contemporary discourse, Fashion, Dress and Post-postmodernism is an essential read for anyone researching or studying post-postmodernism and dress and fashion.' Gill Stark, Regent's University London, UK Scholars have argued that postmodernism is dead and that we are entering a new era that some have labelled altermodernism, digimodernism, performatism and post-postmodernism. This book expands on the nascent scholarship of post-postmodernism to highlight how dress, fashion and appearance are reflections of this new age. The volume includes analysis on the work of design houses and mass producers such as Vetements, Gucci and Uniqlo whose products align with post-postmodern aesthetics, as well as discussions on the post-postmodern museum fashion exhibition. Fashion, Dress and Post-postmodernism looks at diverse geographic and identity markers including questions surrounding South Asian Muslim fashion, the counter-fashion manifesto of The Rational Dress Society and Tom Ford's output as a movie director. The volume also includes chapters on fashion, subjectivity and time, as well as temporality, technology and fashion in post-postmodern times. JOSE BLANCO F. is Associate Professor and Department Chair at Dominican University, USA. ANDREW REILLY is Professor at the University of Hawai ' i at Manoa, USA. FASHION 1{] i I I l \\\\ ' ~ I \" Cover design by Adri ana Brioso Cover image C Francois Guillot/ AFP/Getty Images Also available from ISBN 978-1·350-11516·3 Bloomsbury Visual Arts IIII IIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIII IIl lllillllif11111 www.bloomsbury.com 9 781350 115163