JUNAGHAD ONE OF THE MOST ANCIENT AND SACRED SITES OF INDIA
INDEX 1 3 • History of Junaghad 7 • Map of Junaghad 14 • Bhavnath • Girnar Parvat 18 • Damodar Kund 20 • Ashok Shilalekh 22-39 • Uperkot: 24 28 -Ranak Devi Mahal 32 -Story of Ranak Devi and Girnar 34 -Curse of Naagbai 36 -Adi Kadi Baudi 38 -Navghan Kuvo 40 -Buddhist Caves 42 -Cannon Spot 46 • Bava Pyaare Caves 50 • Khapra Khodia Caves 52 • Swaminarayan Mandir 53 • Sardar Gate • Majevadi Gate
• Mahabat Maqbara and complexes: 52-59 -Mahabat Maqbara 56 -Bahar-ud-din Bhar Hasanbhai Tomb 58 -Juma masjid 60 62 • District Court and Highschool 64 • Muchkund Gufa 66 • Revati Kund 68 • Narsinh Mehta No Choro 70 • Circle Chowk 72 • Diwan Chowk • Tomb of Babi Kings 76 • Railway station 78 • Bugda school 80 • Darbar Hall Museum 82 • Ra Khengar Vav • Sakarbaug zoo 84 • Bibliography 86 • Glory of Junaghad 88 90
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about bhavnath taleti AND faiR........ Location: Located on the foot hills of Girnar, the Bhavnath Mahadev Temple is one of the foremost holy places of Junagadh. It has stood here since ancient times near Damodar Kund at Girnar Taleti, 8km away from Junagadh. History: The Bhavnath Mahadev temple is a shrine ensconced in myths and legends of the Puranic era. The Shiva linga here is said to have emerged of its own divine intension. Reportedly, when Shiva and Parvati were traveling over the Girnar Hills, their divine garment fell over the present Mrigi Kund, making this place an auspicious site for Shiva worshippers. Occasion of Mahashivratri On the moonless night when it is Devotees believe that Shiva himself visits the shrine on this occasion. Gir- believed Lord Shiva performed his nar is said to be the abode of the nine Tandava- the cosmic dance of de- immortal Nathas and eighty-four struction, a great ritual begins at mid- Siddhas, all of whom also visit the night on Mahashivratri, when Naga temple in their invisible spirit forms Bavas, or Naked Sages, seated on ele- during Mahashivratri. Offerings are phants and decked in ornaments, ar- made to the deities, and the festive rive holding flags and blowing conch energy courses through performanc- shells, tungis and turis, the sounds of es of dance, music and traditional which reverberate through the entire bhavai theatre. space. The evening leading up to the About 1 lakh people from different midnight ritual of Mahashivratri, at regions of India, particularly from the wrestling grounds, or Akhada, Gujarat and Marwad, have been com- next to the temple, the naga bavas ing here since years. While many gather for a ritual involving a blend come clad in lively colours, the Ahirs of dance and martial arts. Even today, and Mers of Junagadh district are the Naga Bavas are known to bathe most striking features. Before go- in the holy Mrigi Kund before joining ing to the fair, many pilgrims do a the Mahashivratri procession and parikrama of the holy hills of Girnar strangely, only few of them return , a journey of about 7 km. Visitors are back! It is believe that they magically served free meals by the organisers. disappear from the Kund!. Leading a Special stalls idols, rosaries brought large procession to the temple, they from Ayodhaya and Mathura and de- thus mark the commencement of an lectable sweets. emotive religious ceremony. 7
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CAUTION: This fair is beautiful but at the same time passionate and intense, hence one should be cautious enough to move in groups and not alone! It is a mammoth affair brimming with mysticism and revelry. WHEN: The fair of Mahashivratri is held for 5 days commencing from the Hindu Calendar date of Magh Vad 11, during Gregorian months of February-March. Before booking your dates, confirm the dates with @gujarattourism. Lili Parikrama Girnar Lili Prikrama (Green Pradakshina or circumambulation) around Mount Girnar in Junagadh district starts from the temple of Bhavnath and also ends here, under the belief that all the 33 crore gods live in Girnar. Parikrama is believed to be pious because it is believed that Lord Dattatrey himself descends down to Earth and stays here these five days to bless his devotees. The fair is organised by local people, sadhus, police and forest department officials. The pilgrimage on foot, formerly 12 miles which is now reduced to 6 miles since 150 years ago, takes 4 days. Of the seven peaks of Girnar, five are important- Ambamata, Gora- khnath, Augadh, Guru Dattatreya and Kalika. Devotees visit these sacred places during the parikrama. After the rainfall, the ponds and rivers are full of water adding to the scenic beauty of the forest and hills. The fair is attended by around 1 lakh people from all parts of India. The activities include raas and bhajans mandalis, dramas and duhas. Toy stalls, tea and eatable stalls, and stall selling idols etc are also organised to cater the public.The parikrama is celebrated by worshipping Lord Shi- va’s shrine at Bhavnath and people start walking on the identified tracks day and night. The entire Girnar hill pathways are lighted up and there are plenty of sadhu maths were people stop for a while to pay respect to these Naga Bavas and they continue walk- ing enjoying the bhajan and raas mandlis and the folk music dur- ing the nights. Devotees try to end this journey on the full moon night at the Bhavnath temple. When: The fair of Girnar Lili Parikrama is held in the Hindu month of Kartik Sud 11 to 15, which is during the month of October-No- vember. Before booking your dates, confirm the dates with @gu- jarattourism. 10
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ASHOK SHILALKEH
On the way to Girnar Hills, One can see a huge white coloured building that houses fourteen edicts of Emperor Ashoka. The edicts are dating back to 250 B.C. and were rediscovered by James Todd. Edicts exhibited in the building are carved out of large granite stones with inscriptions written on it in ancient languages like Pali and Brahmi. Inscriptions on the stones tell us about the philosophy of Ashoka- respect for all religions, developing a positive attitude, kindness to everyone and resistance to greed and animal sacrifice. On the top of Girnar hill, one can notice a large black colour- ed granite slab that has major rock edicts written by Ashoka. Edicts also depict us about the life history of King Ashoka, about how he gave up war and violence and became a firm follower of Buddhism. All the edicts have a strong historical connection and they all impart the message of peace, toler- ance and communal harmony. Edicts are proof that the peo- ple of the area were once under the influence of Buddhism. 21
UPERKOT FORT 22
WATER SUPPLY WHEEL 23
RANAK DEVI MAHAL The palace is 44.25m in North-South and 43.75m in East-West. Due to four minarets (columns) placed on the top four corners and carv- ing done as Mehrab on the wall of western direction clearly gives it essence of a touch of Islamic architecture. The palace consisting of 238 columns and three huge octagonal oculus has three Mehrabs amongst which the middle one is famous for it’s carving. the palace is estimated to be 850 years old and is constructed in such a way, that no cement-like adhesives were used to make it strong. 24
Instead of that the stone pieces were joined with the slurry mixture of stone powder and some water, which happens to be way more long lasting as compared to cement. Mostly it is constructed with cutting of stones, but to some extend, the slurry mixture is used. The ground floor possesses rooms for the maids of queen (Dasis). There was a gate for the entrance to the palace from behind. There was also a kitchen located on the ground floor. One can also see a tomb of last Nawab of Junaghad (around 1947) from back of the palace. It is said that actually dead people’s bodies were used to be burried in the palace premises instead of in the town. 25
One the first floor there are columns which had carving of leaves, flowers, bell with chain, patterns in square shaped and torans in semi-circular and rhombus pattern. There is a jarokha on the southern wall of the palace. there assumed to be some rooms on the first floor which were then ruined by Mahmud Begda. One can also see a tunnel going deep with ventilation and size of a human on horse on the first floor. This is the tunnel used by soldiers to go to village and buy grains for the people of the village when army force of other kingdom used to attack them and have war. At second floor, there used to be rooms, but when the palace was destroyed, the entire storey was razed to the ground and four metal columns (Mina- rets) were installed in four corners of the palace which gives it the essence of Masjid. 26
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STORY OF RANAK DEVI AND GIRNAR 800 years ago, the King of Patan, Sidhraj Jaysinh wanted to lay his hands on Ranak Devi, the queen of the kila. He persistently kept trying while the queen kept the doors of her Uparkot kila closed. The soldiers of King Khengara were inside the fort, ready to attack the army of Sidhraj, who were waiting outside the fort walls. When the famine finally hit Uparkot, the secret passage within the kila was used to carry granaries. His nephews Visal and Desal were the only persons allowed access there except the guards. 28
Sidhraj Jaysinh lured the two nephews into tricking the king and becoming the next rulers, to which both the brothers agreed. They entered the kila with some cattle carrying grain, killed the guards and attacked the palace. Khengara came forth, fought against them, however, ended up dying in the battlefield and the Uparkot was taken. After this Desal and Visal took Sidhraj up to the Girnar fort and asked their aunt, Ranak Devi to open the gate. She did so not knowing what had happened. Then Jaysinh entered and on seeing her two sons ordered them to be put to death. 29
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Ranak Devi turned towards Girnar and it appeared to be smiling at her, despite her palace becoming a battlefield. Hence, Ranak Devi got enraged and cursed Girnar, “Oh Great Girnar!, My husband and my sons have prayed for you for as long as I can remember and you still couldn’t save my family. You are tall and mighty, O Great one, as if talking to the clouds.” Upon hearing this, Girnar got agitated and it’s rocks started to fell. The great saints of Girnar requested Ranakdevi to take her words back. Ranakdevi, now a Sati, painted her hands with kumkum and stoped the falling boulders, preventing rocks from falling down. Sidhraj then persuaded Ranakdevi to become the queen of Patan to which she asks him to hand her husband’s head to her for she wanted to perform Sati. Sidhraj agreed on one condition to make her come to Patan. So Ranakdevi and Sidhraj travel to Patan, where thereafter Ranakdevi asks for her husband’s head, as Sidhraj promised. Sidhraj’s mother Minal Devi asks Sidhraj to do as Ranakdevi asks for she, being a sati, would curse you if you would not listen to her. Fearing his downfall, Sidhraj does what is asked for and Ranakdevi performs Sati with the help of Ambe Maa (whom she prayed to everyday). Ranakdevi before dying curses Sidhraj that he would have no children and he develops Vitiligo on his skin. She also curses Bhogao village that they would have drought. The last King, Ra Maandalik did ritual ceremony for Hanumanji and Ganpatiji, who was later run over by a muslim ruler, Mahmud Begda. The Nawabs ruled the place for 250 years. 31
Curse of Naagbai: End oF ChauDAsama Dynasty “Ra Nathi Farto, Ena Divaso Farvana Che!” “Ra Ni Niyaat Badlai Che, Ena Mann Ma Kaam che!” Ra-Maandalik was the last ruler of Chaudasama Dynasty. During his reign of rule, Juna- gadh fort was attacked by a Muslim ruler, Mahmud Begda and turned into a Masjid. POPULAR FOLKTALE: There was a barber in Ra- Maandalik’s Darbar who once while shaving his beard informed him about a settlement in the nearby rural area, in which lived a beautiful woman named, “Naagbai”. She was known and admired for her elegance and beauty. It was well observed that even when she would drink water, one could trace the trajectory of the water deep down her throat, due to her soft and fair skin. The barber convinced the Raja that she should become the queen of the Kingdom. The Raja, at once, became curious to have a glance at her and know more about her. Hence, along with the barber, he went upto Naagbai’s settlement, claiming that they had come to hunt and were tired, hence asking for a glass of water. Naagbai and her niece were present in the house at that moment, and were generous enough to greet him with great hospitality. 32
As a customary ritual, if a woman applies Tilak on the forehead of a man, it means that she has respect for him as a brother. Inorder to greet the King with honour, Naagbai, at once, ordered her niece to get kumkum, inorder to apply Tilak to the king. However, the king was reluctant about it, as he didn’t want her to become his wife! Hence he would turn his face to another direction whenever Naagbai attempted to apply Tilak. Surprised by this act, Naag- bai’s niece asked her for the reasoning of his behaviour to which she replied, “Ra Nathi Farto Ena Divaso Farvana Che!”, meaning his destiny is going to be affected and forever changed. She also added, “Ra Na Maan Ni Niyaat Badlai Che, Ra Na Maan Ma Kaam Bhaavna Jagi Che!”, meaning Ra is indirectly seeking for physical bond. Naagbai, for one last time asked him if he could undo his actions and ask for forgiveness, however, the king refused to do so. Raged by his deeds, Naagbai cursed him with his fort getting attacked by Muslim ruler and it getting turned into a Masjid! After a few days, the curse was spelled turning out Naagbai’s words to be true. The King realised that she was a Sati! 33
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It is said.... “For those who haven’t seen Adi Kadi Baudi and Navghan Kuvo in their entire lifespan are living dead. Once you see it, you become immortal.” Adi Kadi Baudi and Navghan Kuvo are two stepwells in Uparkot. Unlike other stepwells, these are carved out from a single rock and no external elements were used in building them. Adi Kadi Baudi Baudi was built in the 15th cen- one forcing them to do so, then the water will spring in the well. The tury for the purpose of drinking Raja searched for twin sisters in and storage for the people living the entire village if there were any in Junagadh fort. It took them 14 who could give their bali. Howev- years to construct it. It is 81 me- er, none were convinced to do so. ter in length and approximately Apparently, there were two dasis 150 meter in depth. There are 162 of Ranakdevi namely Adi and Kadi, steps in order to reach the well. who were convinced to give their At present only 40 feet water is bali. They believed if their balidan present in the baudi and is ex- could bring water in the well, it will ploited due to external forces such quench the thirst of people of the as birds, animals, humans, etc. Kingdom and they will be known forever. Hence both of them were The Baudi was built by Ranakdevi’s brought to the well in the golden Husband Ra-Khengara. He had or- ‘palki’, and sacrificed, which led to dered to dig well upto 150 feet long, the emergence of water in the well. however no traces of even a single This proved the pandit’s words to drop of water was destined. The Raja be true. Therefore, the name was was at great power and he used it to consult Jyotish, given to the well as Adi Kadi Baudi. Pandits & Mahatma for every problems he faced and they used to instruct him accordingly. After consult- ing the pandits about the Baudi, the pandits gave him a solution of ‘Bali Pratha’. If at all two twin unmar- ried girls gives their balidan in the well, without any 35
navghan kuvo -so that if any woman steps down into the well, she Navghan Kuvo was built by Chaudas- gets enough supply of oxygen and is well ma King Ra Navghan for the purpose of illuminated. agriculture and farming and hence given the name, “Navghan Kuvo”. It had start- Behind the well is a podium from ed to build around 1025 A.D. and com- where, by pulley, they could pleted in 1044 A.D. It is believed to have extract water from the well and been completed by his son, Ra Khenga- use it for irrigation. However, ra. Some of the scholars believe it to be currently, nobody dares to go the oldest example of stepwell. deep into the well to fetch water. The Kuvo was cut into squarish shape from top and has stairs surrounding it which leads us to the base of the well. It has 236 steps. The well has nine win- dow cut outs for ventilation purposes- 36
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Buddhist Caves 38
Ashoka, the great emperor of India, battled his last war in Kalinga, wherein he lost lakhs of soldier. Thereafter, he accepted Buddhism as advised by a Buddhist monk and started to spread it all over the na- tion and further. However, unable to cover the entire terrain, he sent his disciples- Akhtargupta and Naamgupta to carry forward his work. It is believed that both of these monks, came to Junagadh as well and the caves in Uparkot was carved by them. The so called, “Buddhist Caves” around Uparkot are three seperate sites of rooms carved out of stone to be used as monk’s quarters. Howev- er, these were carved by monks while meditating and no machineries were used. These are as old as 2nd or 3rd century A.D. They have the influence of Satvahana architecture with combination of Greco-Scythi- an style. ∎∎The upper floor has a deep to retain water, thereby cooling tank, covered on three sides the lower basement naturally. with verandas and kakshas on ∎∎These caves are gilded with beautiful pillars and entranc- west and north-western side. ∎∎The first floor consists of lec- es, water cisterns, horse shoe ture room/ assembly hall which shaped Chaitya windows. were used by monks to give ∎∎The carved water cisterns were used to store rain- preachings to their disciples. water which was ultimate- This space has stone carved out ly used by monks to bathe. in circular manner for disciples ∎∎There was also an attached Kitchen where monks used to sit while monks preached. ∎∎Lower floor consists of cor- to cook food. A cut out like ridors with pillars, carved with unique ornamentation, chimney was carved out inor- which were used as meditation der to release the emission of cells. The stone has capacity burnt carbon while cooking. 39
CANNON SPOT Walking along the slopes of Uperkot, a 10 inch bore cannon of bell-metal, 17 feet long and 4 feet 8 inch round at the mouth, is seen. This gun was brought from Diu, where it was left by the Ottoman Turks following their defeat in Siege of Diu. There is an Arabic inscription at the muzzle, which may be translated: “The order to make this cannon, to be used in the service of the Almighty, was given by the Sultan of Arabia and Persia, Sultan Sulaiman, son of Salim Khan. May his triumph be glorified, to punish the enemies of the State and of the Faith, in the capital of Egypt, 1531.” At the breech is inscribed: “The work of Muhamman, the son of Hamzah.” Another large cannon called Chudanal, also from Diu, in the southern portion of the fort, is 13 feet long, and has a muzzle 4 feet in diameter. This cannons are known by names, Neelam and Manek. 40
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BAVA PYARE CAVES 43
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