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Bibliography Kawlra, Aarti. “Kanchipuram Sari: Design for Auspiciousness.” Design Issues 21, no. 4 (2005): 54–67. http://www.jstor.org/stable/25224019. n.d. YouTube. Accessed June 9, 2022. https://kanjeevaramtraditionalsarees.blogspot.com/2016/02/tools-and-raw-materials-used.html. n.d. YouTube. Accessed June 9, 2022. http://www.jstor.org/stable/25224019. n.d. YouTube. Accessed June 9, 2022. https://www.madhuradhwani.org/2021/11/06/confluence-of-traditions-carnatic-music-bharatanatyam- and-the-kanjivaram-sari/. “About – The Indian Saree Journal.” n.d. The Indian Saree Journal. Accessed June 9, 2022. https://indiansareejournal.blog/about/. Baral, Bibhudutta. n.d. “Tools and Materials | Silk Weaving - Kanchipuram | D'Source Digital Online Learning Environment for Design: Courses, Resources, Case Studies, Galleries, Videos.” D'source. Accessed June 6, 2022. https://www.dsource.in/resource/silk-weaving- kanchipuram/tools-and-materials. Elkan, Michael. 2013. “Traditional Costumes of Tamil Nadu for Men and Women.” Traditional Clothing India. http://traditionalclothingindia. blogspot.com/2013/09/traditional-costumes-of-tamil-nadu-for.html. “Festivals of Kanchipuram.” n.d. Tamilnadu Tourism. Accessed June 9, 2022. https://www.tamilnadutourism.com/kanchipuram/festivals.php. “Food in Kancheepuram, Types of dishes in Kancheepuram.” n.d. Kancheepuram. Accessed June 9, 2022. https://www.kancheepuramonline. in/city-guide/food-in-kancheepuram. Ghose, Indrani. 2010. “Ekambaranathar Temple Kanchipuram UNESCO site Tamil Nadu.” i Share. https://isharethese.com/ekambaranathar- temple-kanchipuram/. “Kanchipuram.” n.d. Wikipedia. Accessed June 9, 2022. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanchipuram. “The Kanchipuram Saris | Weaves of India | Kanjeevaram Silk.” 2017. YouTube. https://youtu.be/us3faFG_GX8. Mishra, Jitu, and Vijay S. Iyer. 2018. “Kanchipuram Murals – An Artistic Sojourn – VIRASAT – E – HIND FOUNDATION.” VIRASAT – E – HIND FOUNDATION. https://blogvirasatehind.wordpress.com/2018/11/02/kanchipuram-murals-an-artistic-sojourn/. Mohan, Sreemathy. 2018. “Motifs in Kanjivaram Sarees – The Indian Saree Journal.” The Indian Saree Journal. https://indiansareejournal. blog/2018/05/13/motifs-in-kanjivaram-sarees/. srinivas, pendem. 2016. “Tamil Nadu Traditional Costumes, Culture and Tradition of India.” India the Destiny. https://indiathedestiny.com/ india-society/costumes/tamil-nadu-traditional-costumes/. “3 Kancheepuram weavers get awards.” 2015. The Hindu. https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/3-kancheepuram-weavers-get- awards/article7514373.ece. Deaprtment of Fashion Communication, NIFT Chennai 101

“Traditional Dresses of Tamil Nadu.” n.d. Holidify. Accessed June 9, 2022. https://www.holidify.com/pages/tamil-nadu-dresses-286.html. “20 Ways To Identify A Real Kanjivaram Saree.” n.d. Fullitejas. Accessed June 9, 2022. https://fullytejas.com/identify-a-real-kanjivaram- saree/. “Varna Sutra: Antar Anga - Checks & Stripes.” 2018. Kanakavalli. https://kanakavalli.com/blogs/kanakavalli-varna-sutra/varna-sutra-antar- anga-checks-stripes. Vazquez, James. 2021. “Origin and Making of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees - 2022 Guide.” Bel-India. https://www.bel-india.com/origin-and- making-of-kanchipuram-silk-sarees/. “The Weavers Of Kanchipuram.” 2020. National School of Journalism. https://www.nsoj.in/stories/the-weavers-of-kanchipuram. 102 Selai Kathaigal, Craft Research Document, 2022

Images and Description Image 1: Silk being woven to make a saree Image 2: Warp threads on a loom Image 3: Sarees at Pachaiyappa Silks Image 4: Silk on a Spindle Image 5: Kanjivaram saree from Venkateswara society Image 6: Entrance of Vardharaja Perumal Temple Image 7: Ekambaranathar Temple Image 8: Road to Ekambaranathar Temple Image 9: Ekambareswarar Temple Image 10: Kailasanathar Temple Image 11: Vardharaja Temple Image 12: Entrance of Kanchi Kudil Museum Image 13: Procession in front Of Vardharaja Perumal Temple Image 14: Procession In Vardharaja Perumal Temple Image 15: Kanjivaram Saree Image 16 Stack of Sarees at sri Venkataswara Saree Shop Image 17: Saree Pallu Image 18: Sarees being shown at Venkateswara Society Image 19 and 20: Relief work in Vardharaja Perumal Temple and the Ekambaranathar Temple (Top to Bottom) Image 21, 22, 23 & 24 L TO R, Top to bottom: 1. Motif Designs, 2. Computerising the Design, 3. Mr B Krishnamurthy’s collection of motifs, 4. A designer computerising the design Image 25: Saree at Venkateswara Society Shop Image 26: Silk during the dyeing process L to R Image 27, 28, 29, 30 & 31- Silk sectioned for different colours in dyeing; Dyer sectioning raw silk; dyeing, Silk in dyeing couldron, Swatches for dyeing Image 32: A red kanjivaram saree with rudraksham borders Image 33: Green saree border Image 34: Blue Saree border Image 35: Yellow kanjivaram saree Deaprtment of Fashion Communication, NIFT Chennai 103

Image 36: Black kanjivaram silk saree Image 37, 38, 39, 40; L TO R 1. Warp thread being examined; 2 Warp threads being beaten by wood; 3 Warped yarn being bundled together; 4 marking the distance on warp threads and being tied together. Image 41: Yarn being prepared for weaving Image 42, 43: National Awardee Mr R Nageswaran, Demonstarting the Process of preparing zari for weaving; Image 45: Tools used for preparing zari Image 46: Weaver weaving a saree Image 47: Weaver weaving a saree, in frame- a jacquard loom Image 48 & 49: Sarees at RmKV Image 50: Sarees at Pachaiyappa’s Image 51: Sarees at RmKV Image 52: Mr V Krishnamurthy at his house Image 53: Mr V Krishnamurthy working on warping Figures: 1. Fig 2.1: Chennai to Kanchipuram 2. Fig 2.2: Layout of Kanchi Kudil Museum 3. Fig 3.1: Parts of a saree 4. Fig 3.2: Design Process Flowchart 5. Fig 3.3: Dgumming and dyeing process flowchart 6. Fig 3.4 Warping and spinning flowchart 7. Fig 3.5 Degumming and dyeing process flowchart 8. Fig 3.6: Parts of a Loom 104 Selai Kathaigal, Craft Research Document, 2022

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