MAGAZINE THE MONTHLY BEAUTY WIG & HAIR EXTENSION PUBLICATION Vol.10 No.4 GREEN Masters of BEAUT Y Color KALEIDOSCOPE: R& B Wig ANT HONY GRANT Company BRINGS COLOR TO LIFE WIT H MAT RIX HAIRCARE 1
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MAGAZINE CONTENTS PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT Cosmetics 20 Skincare 25 Nails 26 Liquids 64 Tools 62 Kate›s Corner 86 EVENTS Beauty Store Of The Year 18 ALL ABOUT HAIR Get The Look 24 Wigstension Of The Month 28 R&B Wig Company - Masters of Color 80
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BEAUTY NEW ITEMS BRAZILIAN KERATIN TREATMENT Stylebook with Zerrans 67 56 NEWS Hair Type 101 46 Last Look 84 Flat Irons - Low Cost Vs Salon Quality 60 Industry News 80 FEATURE: GREEN BEAUTY Putting Ingredients and Environment First 31 Organic? Natural? What Does It Mean? 34 Advice from Green Beauty and Wellness Expert Rona Berg 40 PEOPLE KALEIDOSCOPE: Anthony Grant Brings Color To Life with Matrix Haircare 48 Blogger of the Month 82
COVER STORY This month, our cover comes from the talented and award-winning stylist, Anthony Grant. After we featured his collection in our June issue, we knew we needed to keep in touch with his amazing work. This month, we’re excited to show you his latest work with color and texture. To see more of his collection, head to page 48. Hair: Anthony Grant for Jamie Stevens using Matrix Haircare Stylist: James Millagan Make-Up: Marta Mucha Photographer: Jens Wikholm EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Kate Patterson EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR: Travis Johng SOCIAL EDITOR: Necole Jackson GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Sarah Alshamy SENIOR WRITERS: Minah Kim Jenny Rogers BUSINESS DIVISION: Kwang Kim 13
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Editor’s Note Hello Readers! It’s the start of the new year, and I’m sure you’re already hard at work on your resolutions. Personally, I’m taking the first few weeks of this year to evaluate how I can make my home and beauty routine more sustainable and environmentally friendly. Not only do I believe it to be of utmost importance for the earth, but I think my hair and skin will thank me as well. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve noticed that my levels of sensitivity have changed dramatically. Where I once used a moisturizer with a long list of complicated ingredients, now, something far simpler is all I care for. As we began working on our yearly Green Beauty issue, I had plenty of time to start thinking about what products I’d added and removed from my routine over the last year. As a rule, I’d been unconsciously removing complicated products with man-made and complex chemicals in favor of simple, truly natural products. Unfortunately, finding these new products was never easy and always took research. As we’ll discuss in our article on 34, the term Natural is nearly meaningless when describing a beauty product. Which is why I’ll be referring to items as “truly natural” with my definition meaning any product that isn’t organic, but that uses familiar ingredients found in nature. Along with our feature, this month we had the chance to share a new collection from Anthony Grant, an artist whose work I’ve admired for years. We had the opportunity to feature Anthony a few months back, and I’m ecstatic to get the chance to share more of his stunning work with you. As a reminder, we’ve recently launched a Youtube-based show, Hey, Nabor!, that we’re all very proud of. We’d love for you to head over to check it out after you’ve had a chance to read this issue! If you try any of the styles we’re featuring or the products we’re recommending, we’d love to hear your thoughts! Share your selfies and thoughts and we’ll feature them in our next issue! Until next time! Kate Patterson 16 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
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Events CosmoBiz Magazine 2019 Beauty Stores of the Year As our magazine is tailored to the hair and beauty industry, it is essential to highlight the beauty supply stores that are continually bringing the gap between store owners and its customers. Beauty supply store owners serve as the middleman between the companies and their customers. They are the ones selling the product and getting the information to their customers about which products are worth purchasing. These stores have a humongous influence on trends and what products customers will be using in their routine. For that, highlighting beauty supply stores that continually engage their customers is important. We must also highlight these stores because as everyone is aware, there is a divide between store owners and their customers. With the different backgrounds and ethnicities, multiple altercations have happened this year that have caused fear on both sides. Although these incidents are spreading, there are companies that aim to bridge the gap and gain understanding and patience with their customers with the returning energy back. This year, we selected two retail businesses that exemplified all of the following traits and more. These stores are transforming the standard of beauty supply stores and are leaving lasting impressions with their customers. Of course, there are beauty stores all over that are changing the standard that we may have missed, but as we repair the relationship of retail stores and their customers, we hope to highlight them in the future. Congrats to these two stores for their efforts of expanding the notion of a beauty supply store into something bigger. 18 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
2019 Beauty Store of the Year Bella Crown, Clinton, Maryland Although Bella Crown is a small store with 2,200 sq. ft., it comes packed with promise. Opening in 2000, the shop is almost a small boutique with clear lighting, high ceilings and top-of-the-line furnishings. What separates Bella Crown from other beauty supply stores are the products designed specifically for its customers. With its own brand of bundled hair and IndiRemi, chemical products, organic products, wigs, and trichology services, this store is unlike any of its kind. In the back, the wig section looks like a storefront, with each wig on the mannequin easily ready to try on. Bella Crown has also made a number of products popular on Facebook and Instagram. ETEA, bentonite clay, and the 360 wave brush are some to name few. Bella Crown is creating a new form of the beauty supply store that has never been seen. With the success of Bella Crown and how they are transforming the concept of beauty supply store, we’re sure expansion is in the future. Congrats to Mr. Johng and the whole team. 2019 Beauty Store of the Year C&S Beauty, Lawrenceville, Georgia C&S Beauty purchased a shabby building and opened its third store, which transformed the store into far more than its humble beginnings. The spacious store is approximately 8,000 sq. ft. with luxurious furnishings, almost boutique-like. The store features products that are beautifully displayed on shelves making it easy for customers to find what they are looking for. Wigs are displayed with confidence and poise, attracting customers to try on products for purchase immediately. Even the low-priced wigs are given as much focus as their higher-priced cousins. The staff are recog- nizable and readily available to help wearing uniforms and ever-present. The atmosphere as a whole is inviting and creates a smooth shopping experience where customers are grateful for the staff while the staff are grateful to offer their service. We applaud Mr. Juseo, CEO of C & S Beauty, the best retailer in 2019, and his excellent staff. 19
Cosmetics COSMETICS Natural cosmetics have come a long way in the last few years. While many used to think that you could choose effective or natural, these days there are plenty of natural, limited ingredient and organic products that are just as effective. There are plenty of companies making great products; here are a few of our favorites. 100% Pure - Fruit Pigmented Mermaid Palette $47 www.100percentpure.com Made with fruit and vegetable pigments, this stunning palette features a blush, luminizer and three stunning shadows in easy-to-use neutrals. Inspired by mythical mermaids, pink-cloud sunsets, and the sun’s reflection on emerald ocean waves, this palette makes a perfect addition to your collection. Real Purity - Lipstick $14.99 www.realpurity.com Made with a blend of organic aloe vera extract and sweet almond oil, this lip color provides soothing moisture and protection from the sun. The candelilla wax offers a barri- er against irritants and can help treat inflammation of the skin, which makes it perfect for the winter. Burt’s Bees - Goodness Glows Full Coverage Liquid Makeup $17 www.burtsbees.com Made from 98.9% natural, easy-to-understand ingredi- ents, this stunning liquid mineral makeup comes in 18 shades including many darker hues. We love that it’s for- mulated without parabens, phthalates, SLS, petrolatum or synthetic fragrances; dermatologist tested, and never tested on animals. 20 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
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All About Hair “TALK TO ME NICE!” That’s what you’ll quote all new year with our Get the Look inspiration Get the Look from the Bronx native Dream Doll. You may remember her from the humble beginnings DREAM DOLL X R&B WIGS on Bad Girls Club and now Love and Hip Hop NY, but the reality show vet has changed her sights from TV to your radios. With her hit, Talk to Me Nice, life is definitely a dream listening to her voice. Aside from her rapping skills, she gives looks for days showcasing a variety of wig colors and we love every single style. We especially love this look from the Fashion Nova x Cardi B collection premiere party where she performed with a hot red wig with glamorous curls similar to Jessica Rabbit. To get Dream’s look is easy with R&B wigs, our favorite wig makers that deliver quality looks in seconds. RJ-STYLE under the RJ Park wig collection is our favorite dupe. The RJ series combines the swiss lace comfort with formulated castor oil infused in the hair to give the hair a natural feeling. The style also features the same side part and dramatic length to make you just as dreamy. To get those same curls, use a curling iron up to 350 degrees for a sexy, sultry look. Photo Credit: Instagram 24 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
SERUM AND YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE The skincare routine has evolved and the days of ‘yes my makeup is off, can I go to bed now?’ is over. Serums are sensational and Beautypress shows you just why squeezing them into your everyday regimen can work wonders can work wonders… Acne Away How? Who knew that slinking on some serum could reduce break- By ditching products which use cheap occlusive agents outs? Due to their watery consistency, serums don’t form (petroleum and mineral oil are the main culprits), and opting pore blocking layers – meaning they also absorb much fast- for more valuable active ingredients such as peptides and er than traditional moisturizers. vitamins, serums can deliver their greatness deep down into the skin rather than just creating a temporary effect at Oil too the surface. No one wants to add more fuel to the grease fire – serums They Actually Work have a watery consistency rather than an oily one so we can keep those sebaceous glands feeling sexy – really, Serums have the highest concentration of active ingredients they can be. Serums are far lighter than moisturizers, so that you can buy without a prescription – normal cleansers they keep skin hydrated without weighing it down. and moisturizers only contain between 5 and 10% of active ingredients, whereas your S secret can contain up to 70%. No Fillers Please Yup. Real results people! Source: beautypress.com No one wants unnecessary ingredients in their products, especially those of us who have sensitive or breakout prone skin…serums are more expensive than other products, but it is worth it. 25
N A I L SFeature W hen we think about chemicals in our beauty There are quite a few companies that make formulas that are products, one of the first items most of us 7 free - meaning formulated without parabens, phthalates will think of is nail polish. With its signature (dibutyl phthalate), toluene, xylene, camphor, formaldehyde, strong scent, long list of chemicals and and resin. Often, this means the products are cruelty-free as lack of strong regulation (as opposed to say lipstick or well. While plenty of companies are taking steps to modify mascara) nail polish is likely one of the most un-natural their formulas, we wanted to share a few of our favorites. products in your stash. That said, most companies are Along with the better formulas, these companies all make attempting to develop formulas that are less intense, products we love to use—with great brushes, smooth more body-friendly and free of some of the stronger application, and longer wear. complex chemicals. Pacifica Zoya As one of the first companies to actively work on a 7 Founded in 1986, Zoya has quickly become one of our free, cruelty-free polish line, Pacifica has been a long favorite polish brands of all time. Along with offering a time favorite of ours. All of their nail polish is made in the flawless formula with stunning long wear and easy ap- USA and offers excellent coverage in two coats tops. plication, Zoya provides a vast range of colors. It’s the While they don’t have the largest color selection, all of first 10-free formula and doesn’t contain formaldehyde, their shades are instant classics. We particularly love formaldehyde resin, dibutyl phthalate, toluene, xylene, the opalescent blue Tourmaline shade - it’s one of their camphor, TPHP, parabens, ethyl tosylamide, lead, and best sellers and frequently sells out on their website. animal cruelty. Their collections constantly offer some of the trendiest, most stunning colors. 26 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
Ella + Mila With their adorable elephant packaging, Ella + Mila is another 7 free formula (in this case it includes sans toluene, DBP, formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, camphor, TPHP, and xylene). We love their classic color collection, they have a wide range and also offer a line of creamy, high-quality lip colors. One of our favorite things about Ella + Mila is that they have a series of Mommy & Me kits that include one full size and one mini size polish in complementing colors. 100% Pure This month, we’re featuring a few of this great company’s products - as they carry beautiful cosmetics, fantastic hair and skincare and a line of absolutely stunning nail polishes. Along with no formaldehyde, toluene, DBP, camphor, formaldehyde resin, xylene, parabens, fragrances, phthalates, and animal ingredients, they’re entirely cruelty-free. They only carry 29 colors including a top and base coat, but the hues are stunning and highly pigmented. 27
Wigstension WIGSTENSION OF THE MONTH There are few companies who have the We’re particularly fond of the style Miriam, commitment to quality and the stunning a 20” long wig in a gorgeous, glam wave execution of the Vivica A Fox Hair Collection. pattern. This lovely and free-flowing look This month, we wanted to feature one of is perfect for everyday wear and can be their newest lines, the Natural “Baby Hair” dressed up or down to suit every occasion. Swiss Lace Front Wig collection. Made with We love Miriam for the winter, as it’s a longer style that won’t leave you cold and it has a Futura Fiber and a stunning beautiful, natural color range. The hue invisible lace part, each shown here, M1BP has a number of this line has a mix of purple, burgundy highly natural look. The and natural black for hairline of this line has a subtle take on the a line of pre-cut baby bold color trends. hairs that allow for a While this color trendy look without mix may not be affecting the rest of appropriate for the style. a conservative office, it can still be worn in more open workplaces. 28 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
䤀一一伀嘀䄀吀䤀伀一 䤀䤀匀匀 䄀䄀䰀䰀䰀䰀 吀吀䠀䠀䔀䔀 䘀䘀䔀䔀䄀䄀吀吀唀唀刀刀䔀䔀匀匀 夀夀伀伀唀唀 一一䔀䔀䔀䔀䐀䐀 䄀䄀一一䐀䐀 圀圀䄀䄀一一吀吀⸀⸀ 䄀渀礀琀椀洀攀 椀猀 挀漀漀氀縀 刀䔀䄀䐀夀 吀伀 䜀伀 伀唀吀℀ 匀吀夀䰀䔀 匀䠀伀圀一 䌀䐀ⴀ䈀刀䄀夀 䜀刀䔀䄀吀 䘀伀刀 儀唀䤀䌀䬀 刀唀一匀 ☀ 圀伀刀䬀䤀一䜀 伀唀吀 䜀䜀䰀䰀䄀䄀䴀䴀伀伀刀刀伀伀唀唀匀匀 䰀䰀伀伀伀伀䬀䬀 匀匀琀琀礀礀氀氀攀攀 夀夀漀漀甀甀爀爀 伀伀眀眀渀渀 䌀䌀愀愀瀀瀀 眀眀椀椀琀琀栀栀 䌀䌀甀甀戀戀椀椀挀挀猀猀℀℀ 䌀䌀䐀䐀ⴀⴀ䔀䔀匀匀匀匀䔀䔀一一吀吀 䌀䌀䐀䐀ⴀⴀ䈀䈀䄀䄀嘀嘀䔀䔀 䌀䌀䐀䐀ⴀⴀ吀吀刀刀䤀䤀一一䄀䄀 匀匀倀倀伀伀刀刀吀吀夀夀 ☀☀ 吀吀刀刀䔀䔀一一䐀䐀夀夀 倀倀甀甀氀氀氀氀攀攀搀搀 䈀䈀愀愀挀挀欀欀 29 䤀䤀渀渀琀琀漀漀 愀愀 倀倀漀漀渀渀礀礀琀琀愀愀椀椀氀氀 吀吀伀伀䰀䰀䰀䰀 䘀䘀刀刀䔀䔀䔀䔀 ⴀⴀ㠀㠀 ⴀⴀ㌀㌀㐀㐀㔀㔀ⴀⴀ㘀㘀㌀㌀㌀㌀㈀㈀
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Green Beauty: Putting Ingredients and Environment First This month, we’re taking a deep dive into the world of Green Beauty. As consumers become more aware of the effects of different ingredients, and the power their purchases have on the globe, the building interest in green beauty is no surprise. Green beauty can hardly be called a trend, it’s an issue that’s been building interest for ages. While those interested in more natural choices used to have to make their own cosmetics, now there are more options than anyone could try in a lifetime. Unfortunately, with the growing interest, there are less reputable companies using the terms natural for marketing purposes only. This month, we’ll take you through some of the issues and share some of our favorite genuinely natural and green products. 31
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Feature ORGANIC? NATURAL? WHAT DOES IT MEAN? W hen you want the best for your body certifications and inspections. Natural products, on the and hair, organic may be a word that other hand, don’t have to follow or adhere to any of springs to mind. Organic products these factors. There have been many examples of com- have been steadily gaining popularity panies facing legal action for using a facade of natural and power in the beauty industry, and for a good and organic concepts in their marketing without the fol- reason. Organic products help to ensure that the low-through. beauty and personal care items we consume are The Natural Conundrum produced more responsibly, in a way that is better Natural products aren’t necessarily evil; there are com- for both us and the planet. However, with the grow- panies and products that are high quality and more than ing interest, those who want to take profit without worthy of your money that are natural, but not organic. effort are bound to show up. Having a product be However, recognizing these products can be difficult. natural has become a standard marketing tool Because ingredient lists and sources can be difficult to rather than a true signifier. Today we’ll take you understand, it can be difficult to know if a non-organic through some of the basics to help you get a better product is worth your time. understanding of this complex issue. Natural Vs. Organic When it comes to the difference between natural and organic, the answer is quite simple at first. Organics are strictly labeled and must undergo stringent verification and frequent announced and unannounced certification inspections. Organics must follow a variety of industry standard requirements including no toxic and persistent pesticides, no synthetic growth hormones, no GMO’s, no antibiotics, no growth hormones, no sludge or irradia- tion. They must also meet animal welfare requirements, help to lower levels of environmental pollution, have a documented audit trail, there are legal restrictions on allowable materials, and there are a series of required 34 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
How To Identify Quality Products tal degradation all over the world. Additionally, knowing We’ve referred to the idea of a “truly natural” product whether the products your purchasing pay a fair wage a few times in this issue, and now we want to give that for labor is an excellent indicator of their commitment a full definition. To us, true natural indicates a product to quality. Often, when a company is willing to invest its that is not organic but actively seeks to fulfill many of money in one area, it’s willing to do the work to make a the same qualities. These products will use wholesome, product that is worth your time and conscience. mostly from nature ingredients with limited human-made chemicals, have limited ingredient lists, make an effort Great Examples to fulfill a promise of social and environmental responsi- We can’t share an article about organic and natural prod- bility, and skip out on lazy labeling such as “natural ex- ucts without sharing one of our favorites! In the last ten tracts,” or “fragrance.” Obtaining and retaining a USDA years, there has been enormous growth in the organic organic certification is difficult and costly, and something beauty industry. With more and more people aware of its not all small and indie companies are capable of right potential consumers are more willing to try new organ- away. Additionally, some products are difficult to obtain ics than ever. These days organics come in every price in an organic format for a variety of reasons. To that end, range, effectiveness level, and variety. There were too some companies are doing good work even without cer- many options for us to choose from. That said, there is tification. one company we wanted to highlight, Second Nature. One of the most behind segments of the personal care Make Organic An Option industry is the men’s grooming sector; this is particularly For many, organics can have a price tag that is out of true when it comes to organic men’s grooming products. reach even if the cause is something you appreciate. Fortunately, companies like Second Nature are on their While you may think “Why bother? It’s out of my bud- way in! We recently got the chance to check out Second get.” but, even switching out a few of your products can Nature’s Organic Beard & Hair oil made from hemp seed make a huge difference. There are some products in ev- oil and were very impressed. Not only is it a stunning, ery beauty routine that has more potential to affect your organic product, to works perfectly for men of color who body and the environment. Products like shampoo and have curly hair. All of the men who have tried this rave conditioner, which are washed out into the water system about it: we expect it will help set a new standard for the and applied to the delicate skin of the scalp are great men’s grooming industry. first choices for replacement. Not only are there plenty of options for an organic alternative at any price point; shampoo and conditioner are higher impacts than a lot of other beauty products. Another easy organic switch is for your face creams, while these don’t have as substan- tial an environmental impact, most of the product never returns to the water system, the ingredients can affect you more seriously. Deodorant is another item that it is essential to switch to organic. While organic deodorants were once less effective these days, there are plenty of options with great, effective formulas. Because it is ap- plied directly to the armpit, a sensitive area of skin locat- ed on a lymph node, removing any potentially harmful chemicals and minerals is critical. Know Your Ingredients One of the most important steps any consumer can take is to learn how to read a label. There are plenty of ingre- dients that are entirely (true) natural that look artificial and plenty of human-made chemicals that seem natu- ral. The second best thing is to know a little about the ingredients. While we don’t expect the average person to become a botanist, knowing a little about the plants you consume is important. Palm-based products, for ex- ample, can be grown organically and added as a great ingredient in true natural products, but the farming of palm has created huge deforestation and environmen- 35
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Feature Advice from Green Beauty and Wellness Expert Rona Berg Rona Berg is an internationally renowned What are the benefits of switching to green beauty and wellness expert, and organic or natural cosmetics? best-selling author of Beauty: The New Basics and Fast Beauty: 1000 Quick Not only are organic and natural beauty products stylish, Fixes. Berg is the former Beauty Editor and Deputy sophisticated, and luxurious, they are healthy and they Lifestyle Editor of The New York Times Magazine, really work! The granola-crunchy days of green beauty Editorial Director of ELLE, Contributing Editor to are gone. When I interviewed the actress Olivia Wilde SELF, co-founder/editor-in-chief of Organic Beauty. she said, “At first I wasn’t committed to natural and Berg is passionate in her belief that “green is not a organic. I was committed to products that work. Now I trend, it’s a lifestyle.” We sat down with this expert realize that natural and organic really do work—so why and asked her for advice on switching to natural would anyone sacrifice their health with what they’re cosmetics, choosing products for sensitive skin, putting on their body?” toxic ingredients to avoid and more. CC What is the difference between “organic” MM and “natural” cosmetics? YY CCMM There is a lot of consumer confusion about what is MMYY and isn’t natural or organic. It’s important to know that CCYY there is no regulation behind the term “natural.” Most CCMMYY consumers assume that natural products contain a KK majority of ingredients derived from natural sources. But even products that are 99 percent synthetic can claim to be natural. That’s why consumers looking for an authentically natural product need to educate themselves on specific ingredients to avoid, or find responsible brands that do not “greenwash” their labels Organic is a different story. There are specific USDA criteria, based on organic food and agriculture guidelines--i.e., ingredients grown without pesticides- -that allow beauty products to use the term “organic.” To be “USDA organic,” or to claim “made with organic ingredients,” you are expected to comply. If a product contains less than 70 percent organic ingredients, the product cannot use the term “organic” anywhere on the main label—but many still do, though that is changing. There are also independent global seals and certifications (Natural Products Association, Ecocert, BDIH, Soil Association, and more) that enable the consumer to know that those products are natural or organic enough to qualify. 38 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
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The same way they would choose non-organics. There are certainly natural ingredients that are more sensitizing than others, just like there are irritating non-natural ingredients. If you have sensitive skin, you need to become familiar with certain essential oils and botanical extracts—i.e., tea tree oil, rosemary essential oil, citrus oils, eucalyptus—that are more apt to be irritating. In the non-natural realm, alpha-hydroxy acids, retinols, hydroquinone, synthetic fragrances, FD&C dyes—are also known to be irritating to those with sensitive skin. Always do a -24hour patch test before you try a new product and familiarize yourself with these hot-button ingredients. Consumers are beginning to connect the dots and What are five common household items that CC ask, “What is that washing down my drain, and also have beauty uses? MM how does that impact my health and the health In my book, Fast Beauty: 1000 Quick Fixes, I devote YY of the environment?” When we apply moisturizer--if the an entire section to common household items that CCMM molecule is small enough--it penetrates through the skin do double duty for beauty. Of course, DIY is not for MMYY and directly into the bloodstream. In fact, penetrability everyone. But, in a pinch, you can create your own CCYY has been a selling point in the industry for years, and quick, easy, and inexpensive beauty treatments from CCMMYY as consumers eat healthier foods and embrace more simple household products. Your olive or sesame oil KK sustainable lifestyles, it’s inevitable that they are drawn can double as a moisturizer for super-dry skin, and a to natural and organic beauty, because they are thinking, tiny dab of olive oil will nourish hair at the dry ends. big-picture, in terms of what is safest and healthiest to Olive oil is light and gentle enough even for the most put in and on their bodies. Major mainstream retailers sensitive skin. It is a staple in Mediterranean beauty and from Walmart to Target to Barneys are expanding their spa cultures. Because of its small molecular structure, natural and organic beauty sections and if consumers sesame oil is one of the most deeply penetrating, and weren’t seeing results, they wouldn’t be coming back for it’s rich in linoleic and fatty acids, which carry water- more! soluble nutrients through the skin. Some critics of organic cosmetics argue that most organic products are not clinically tested, and therefore can cause irritation as much as non-organic products. How would someone with sensitive skin go about choosing organic products with this in mind? 40 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
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Baking soda, a fine abrasive, can be used to brush your C teeth, applied as a paste to dry a pimple overnight, or M worked through damp hair to get rid of built-up of styling Y products. It can also be massaged into flaky elbows and CM knees and even used as a gentle exfoliant on the face. MY I always say that a toothbrush, like a cat, has many lives. An CY old toothbrush can be recycled and used to comb through CMY eyebrows and lashes, to apply hair color and touch-ups, K with a bit of honey (another household favorite!) to exfoliate lips, elbows, and knees, and to clean and scrub beauty tools like pencil sharpeners, combs, and tweezers. A bag of frozen blueberries or peas is really handy to have in the freezer. It helps soothe skin irritated by waxing and calms red or inflamed skin. The malleable shape adjusts easily around any part of the body. And never throw a tea bag away—after your cup of tea has steeped, pop the tea bag in the freezer for later use. Chilled green tea bags will take down puffiness under the eyes and soothe inflamed or bruised skin. A chamomile tea compress will reduce irritation if your skin is sensitive. What are some toxic ingredients in cosmetics we should avoid? It’s important for me to say that a few occasional ingredients are not necessarily going to cause you harm. But when you think about the cumulative effects of these ingredients entering your bloodstream along with all of the other pollutants, pesticides, synthetic preservatives, hormones and antibiotics, etc., in our food, our environment, and the air we breathe, over a lifetime, it is a wake-up call. I would also like to say that not all synthetic ingredients are bad. It is not quite that black and white. But let’s replace the ones that are! 42 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
O-z역뷰on티O시Iez서lo브o좋플vn랜아라ee드이t요W가hiig발s! 풍성한Wow모!량Fl이uent 딱de!n트si렌ty드!한This is a 제뷰온a티품가라u서t이짜인yh플oeysunYo라정ur스tuop많l이riupo토품c아loccy어Owa이a스szlnn요t에ob토에1gone.0어erae0e요tu%w.tiyg at 스타g일re이at에tr요end! Professional Beauty Talk SHheoy,wNabHoer!y, Nabor! Watch Hey, Nabor! at youtube.com/heynaborshow
I am a strong believer in science, and so far there is enough With the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act, CC recent evidence to support reformulating products Congress banned three phthalates—DEHP, DBP, MM to remove parabens (butylparaben, ethylparaben, and BBP—from baby bottles and children’s toys. But YY methylparaben, and propylparaben), preservatives that, phthalates are still widely used in beauty and personal- CCMM even in small amounts, can mimic estrogen in the body and care products to stabilize scent in perfume and skincare MMYY have been linked to breast and ovarian cancer. Sulfates and make nail polish supple. Phthalates have been CCYY (sodium lauryl-, sodium laureth-, ammonium laureth-, and linked to hormonal imbalances that lead to infertility and CCMMYY sodium myreth-sulfate) are harsh detergents found in cancer, but companies are not required to list them on the KK cleansers, shampoos, and toothpaste. These can cause skin label. Many products with “fragrance” or “parfum” contain and eye irritation, and may contain -1.4dioxane, considered phthalates—but not all. Stay tuned for more news on a probable human carcinogen by the EPA, though you phthalates. won’t find it on the ingredient label because it’s a byproduct Interview courtesy of BeautyPress, Images from of the manufacturing process. The tip-off: look for (and try Shutterstock and Beauty Press to avoid) ingredients with “eth”—diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA), phenoxyethanol, polyethylene glycol (PEG), and more. Look for nail polish without toluene (a.k.a. methylbenzene), which is stored in fat tissue and can irritate skin and damage lungs. Ingredients like diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, and quaternium 15 can release formaldehyde, a known carcinogen that triggers asthma and irritates skin. 44 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
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Beauty HAIR T YPE 101 Girls, we’re going to get you right for the beginning of 2019 starting with your hair. When converting to natural, one of the biggest problems women face is finding products that work with their hair texture. Every purchase can be a hit or miss and sometimes you’re left with products you will never use costing you a pretty penny. Here is one way you can save yourself time, struggle and money. Knowing your hair type and curl pattern can solve loads of problems and not only rejuvenate your hair, but result in enjoying your natural hair journey. Keep reading to see what your possible curl type is and a recommendation of products catering to your type. Andre Walker Hair Typing System Celebrity Stylist Andre Walker is the creator of the hair typing system. It’s likely his name will sound familiar, Andre has served as a stylist to Oprah Winfrey and Michelle Obama. Those two names should speak volumes towards his craft as both of these inspirational ladies serve everyday slays. After creating products for his haircare line, Andre created the hair typing system, which includes “four main hair types, each type ranging from 3-2 different textures. The main premise of his typing was so “women with kinky hair types wouldn’t have to worry about wasting money and potentially damaging their hair thanks to the system.” This table is a perfect example in finding your hair type and the characteristics to each one. 46 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
Characteristics and Products for 3 & 4 Hair Types Type 3: Curly Hair 3A: Hair curl is neatly twisted but may tend to frizz, so it is best to use a lightweight product with good holding power. People who use shampoo every day should also use conditioner, so that the hair does not dry out. 3B: The hair curl is less tight than 3a, but curls are well shaped. The texture is rough and dense. Use light prod- ucts to prevent hair from accumulating. 3C: This curl is the tightest among the bunch, shaped like a corkscrew. We recommend shampooing at least once a week followed with light vegetable gel for deep conditioning. Products: Shea Moisture’s new Coconut Custard Make It Last Wash N’ Go collection is the perfect recommen- dation for those who love their curl pattern and need a quick look. This line introduces a layered system to help achieve a defined wash-and-go for a range of textures, 3A-4C. It will also help extend the life of hair in between washes. Type 4: Kinky Hair 4A: This hair curl pattern is almost identical to the “s” shape. These shapes generally keep moisture well. Nevertheless, due to the nature of the curly hair type, it is hard to spread sebum easily, which leads to dryness. Use a cream or butter conditioner to help keep your hair moisturized. 4B: Hair is ‘z’ shaped pattern with a soft, fluffy appear- ance. It can easily become dry and suffer breakage be- cause of ‘z’ curvature. Rich moisture, gentle cleansers and deep conditioning often help protect your hair from hair loss. Also, to prevent breakage, invest time in natural styles. 4C: The tightest kinkier hair that can be similar to 4b hair, but more coily. There is no specific curl pattern that appears when hair is shampooed because the hair curl is tightly twisted. You suffer major shrinkage, so try not to shampoo and brush your hair every day. Try to apply protective styling to keep the curls loose. Products: If you want to see your curls pop, using a curl enhancing hair product is key. We love our old favorite Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie from Shea Moisture that’s specifically tailored to coily and kinky tex- tures. This product will add shine and health back into the hair, especially during protective styling. Photo Credit: Andre Walker Hair, Pinterest Quote credits: Andre Walker Hair 47
KALEIDOSCOPE: ANTHONY GRANT BRINGS COLOR TO LIFE WITH MAT RIX HAIRCARE Renowned and award-winning stylist Anthony Grant brings us his latest collection, Kaleidoscope, a stunning adventure in color and texture. As a long time master of color using Matrix Haircare, it’s no surprise that this newest collection features bold and vibrant hues. Anthony has spent the last 27 years honing his craft. Now as a member of the Jamie Stevens Salon team, he’s had a chance to truly blossom and share his creative vision with the world. His large and loyal clientele includes high profile names such as award-winning Broadway star Patina Miller, who often fly him internationally to help with hair on sets. Along with his celebrity work, he has contributed to London, Milan, Paris, New York and South African fashion weeks. Thanks to his talented and creative styling he’s also worked with designers like Valentino, Versace, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Narciso Rodriguez, Gareth Pugh, and Stella McCartney. “My inspiration for this collection started when looking through a kaleidoscope and visualizing the wide spectrum of colors, I created my own unique color palette,” Grant explains. “Working on natural Afro hair has enabled me to introduce vibrant color and set new trends. It›s about girls who have an alter ego, having the confidence to express themselves through their hair using strong, bold colors, introducing the illusion of texture & movement. I infused colors, textures to my kaleidoscope collection, creating a fresh new look with an editorial vibe. These girls don›t follow trends, they dictate them.” 48 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
Hair: Anthony Grant for Jamie Stevens using Matrix Haircare, Stylist: James Millagan Make-Up: Marta Mucha, Photographer: Jens Wikholm 49
Santa Emmanuelle White bridal Ombre Gown Hair: Anthony Grant for Jamie Stevens using Matrix Haircare, Stylist: James Millagan Make-Up: Marta Mucha, Photographer: Jens Wikholm 50 C O S M O B I Z M A G A Z I N E
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