THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE THE STARS ARE New Releases ALIGNED HHHHH 220 tasted CABERNET & BORDEAUX Champion CHALLENGE of the Underdog XFEATURING The Irvine Legacy Continues Chateau Mouton Rothschild CONSISTENCY IS KEY Chateau Lafite Rothschild Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 1 TAYLOR'S RECIPE FOR SUCCESS Pertaringa Tipsy Hill Blue Pyrenees Estate Brand & Sons Icon Majella October 2020 Clare Valley Vol 43 Issue 5 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) &108 tasted NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 Champagne Sparkling EUR 9.95 China RMB100 119 tasted HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Cabernet Sauvignon & Bordeaux Blends • Champagne & Sparkling • Clare Valley & Surrounding Regions • New Releases • Otago (NZ)
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CastSCtoansetSton CastStone Sandstone Produc Sandstone Products Classic Elegant Beautiful Quality Pre-cast Concrete Sandstone Pillars, Columns, Letterboxes & Period Home Architectural Embellishments.s 7 Improvements 950 Port Road, ALBERT PARK, SA 5014 Ph (08) 82444888 Fax (08) 82444777 P Series with P3 Base Contemporary ande Period HomePeriod Home C S C S B3S4ha0IPasefmPtelarip34niIP46orGm00eodaxxrtpvei34HoP4re60oi0dlmlomvmarHmmemes mnoemtesnets C S HCerSitage3SB4haS0IasefmPttlayip34nPI46lrGm00eeoaxxrtpvesi34oP4re6.0oi0dlmlmvmarHmemes 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om.auSanCdas1tosont.de2Pre4toodu2ncmt2es 4 add 0.225m add 0.16m add 0.14madd 0.08m add 0.06P5PP3m3W3WWPP3PPlWPllPP44P4lP4 PPP3P3P33PPWPWW3PPP4lW44P4P4 P13.P3W4Pm3P1FPPW4.ah331x:4PW.:(3ml0(P40P834m81l)PW).834824P24ml4P4444P481378P.73813W74.P3mPW4P4m13P.P43W4mP4 11.13..3434m14m.m34m 11.13.1.343.431m4m4.m3m4m Fax: (08) 8244 4777 CastStone baskervilleÊ-Êregula Blair ITC Medium 224 ext'dbaskervilleÊ-ÊregularSandstone Products baseBlair ITC Medium 1.64m provements ImprovementsSmd8Pem804r.8P30i38e1aFPmd.s5aPd4xlwPn0m3P(.ai104dt48hdam)dP0Pd83.0P3420aP63.1d4053B4.d46mP5aP54402m3m.sP704PP4e7613375.P5Bm44amPs4eP13.P643mPP431P.544AmPP413.P841mPP431P.5P4lnmPP341P.18P4lmnPP134.3P5459P425052mP00o4Bwhnaiigsfdlehea9t 5PPPP14034.40P6P.Pa431odm4P0dr4mt 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NO.303 OCTOBER 2020 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Ashlea Lowke E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. phone +61 8 8357 9277 or Copyright 2020 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, on-line www.winestate.com.au translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 5
contents OCTOBER 2020 FEATURES 22 CONSISTENCY IS KEY renowned merlot maker, Jim Irvine. 22 Nigel Hopkins finds out Taylor’s Jo has taken up the mantle with her own successful brand, Lévrier- a R E G U L A R S longtime recipe for success by French word meaning greyhound, 10 Briefs chatting with managing director and championing underrated varieties by 14 NZ Briefs third-generation winemaker, Mitchell treating them with the respect they 16 European Report with Sally Easton Taylor. “We’ve always been quiet deserve. A respect she also shows 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley achievers,” Taylor explains. Well, to her wines’ namesake, her beloved 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King they may be quiet but their slew of rescued greyhound. 38 Grapevine awards certainly do the talking for 42 Wine Words them, including several to look out for THE STARS ARE 44 What’s it Worth? in this issue. ALIGNED HHHHH 90 Aftertaste 26 CHAMPION OF THE UNDERDOG Jo Irvine likes to tread her own path and seems to be drawn to a challenge and the role of caretaker. She started her career in nursing but when bureaucracy got in the way she decided to follow in the winemaking footsteps of her father, 33 THE STARS ARE ALIGNED An incredible tasting of some amazing cabernet sauvignon and W I N E T A S T I N G S cabernet sauvignon blends along 48 Clare Valley & Surrounding Regions with Bordeaux style varieties of 52 Cabernet Sauvignon & merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and Bordeaux Blends petit verdot. A tasting that ranged from the budget under $20’s all the 62 Champagne & Sparkling way through to the $2,000 world icon 68 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases wine from Chateau Mouton! Only 16 72 Otago (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley) wines from 228 tasted received our highest accolade of five stars in this issue across these diverse brackets. Here we profile their results for your 26 enjoyment. 52 CABERNET & BORDEAUX 78 New Releases and Best Value Buys CHALLENGE X under $20. The tenth tasting of one of the world’s most beloved varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, along with its stablemates of ‘Bordeaux-style’ wines and featuring some renowned first-growths as well. Cabernet & Bordeaux Challenge X tasting starts page 52. For a full list of what we tasted refer to our web site homepage, www.winestate. com.au. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 303 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au October 2020 Cover image Jacek Nowak 6 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
“ A New Generation Has Arrived ” Let Grandeur Wellington make century old traditions a brand new experience. www.grandeurwellington.com.au 201 Blewitt Springs Road, McLaren Flat, South Australia 5171
TAKE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED AND DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM, WHICHER RIDGE WINES. Whicher Ridge is the result of 10 years of work by the dynamic duo of Neil and Cathy Howard, a vigneron and winemaker couple with a combined 50 years of grape growing and winemaking experience between them. The couple specialise in making small batch, single vineyard wines which are full of varietal and terroir specific flavours, from vines grown in the ancient soils of three of Australia’s most isolated wine regions in the south west of Western Australia. For those unable to visit the Cellar Door in person, Whicher Ridge has created wine tasting kits with a selection of samples of their single vineyard wines. The Kits are delivered direct to you with free shipping and a discount coupon to use on your wine purchase. When travelling next to the Margaret River Region, make sure that you visit the Whicher Ridge Cellar Door for a totally unique wine tasting experience, the centrepiece of which is the Wine Sensory Garden. The Garden is the only one of its kind in Australia and has been a consistent regional award winner in the annual Gourmet Traveller Wine Cellar Door Awards. Visit the website for more information on the wine tasting kits and the wine tasting experiences on offer. 200 Chapman Hill E Rd, Chapman Hill WA 6280 E: [email protected] P: 0448 531 399 W: www.whicherridge.com.au WhicherRidgeWines whicherridgewines Scan the QR code to watch our story video on YouTube
editorial THIS IS A COVID-FREE EDITORIAL I think there are enough experts and words on the matter that I don’t need to add to it. Let’s instead focus on the joys of drinking a fine wine or at least a reasonable one. And as I have said many times we are truly blessed with the overall quality and consistency of Australian and New Zealand wines that are unmatched around the world at any price level. We have to confess we did lash out with some yardstick Bordeaux First Growth wines that come in at over the $1,000 level for your reading enjoyment. Even here it could be argued that these green raspy acid wines are an acquired taste. The argument is that they will improve with age. The problem is that we are tasting them now. In this issue we begin with our annual Cabernets judging where we not only look at singular cabernet sauvignon but also the components of the so called Bordeaux blend or Bordeaux varietals; merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Yes, it is a nod to the old world, but in general we do it better. Why? Because with ample sunshine we don’t have the issue of non-ripening fruit. And we have generations of winemakers who have evolved and improved wines rather than those sticking to the same ancient methods, thereby usually producing the same faults. To prove a point Taylor’s Wines, The Visionary 2014, the fifth release of the wine, was crowned World’s Best Cabernet at the Concours International des Cabernet, a major competition held in France and judged blind by the country’s leading sommeliers. Nigel Hopkins explains the background in a nice story about Australia’s possibly most underrated premium winery. This also leads in to our annual Clare Valley regional judging. Whilst we all acknowledge the superb riesling of the region there is so much more to the area, namely intense berry, fruity vibrant reds from cabernet sauvignon and shiraz varieties. Also surprisingly, some very nice chardonnay. And alternative varietals are on the way! Next we have sparkling wines and Champagne with some excellent choices ranging from prosecco quaffers right up to the leesy complex aged Champagnes. We have to remember that in most cases these are party or celebration wines, made for drinking not thinking. We do these very well at a very reasonable price. Of course if you have a few extra dollars the Champagnes of France are hard to beat with crisp racy acidity and mouth filling secondary flavours. Oysters anyone? In New Zealand Michael Cooper provided a nice snapshot of Otago wines where 80% are pinot noirs but pinot gris are also doing well along with riesling and some nice chardonnay. Michael also commented that New Zealand is more than a one trick pony with sauvignon blanc. He mentioned great strides with alternative varieties such as gewürztraminer, montepulciano and tannat. Also watch out for cool climate syrah and cabernet franc. For our new releases we are seeing a plethora of early release 2020 vintage wines. The judges commented that some of these would be better (and score more highly) in a few months’ time given a bit of time to relax in bottle. The better wines were those with a little more age, 2018 being the standout vintage with 2016 also performing well. As always, in a judging of multiple categories there are many wines to choose from at both a price and quality level. Lots to taste and lots to enjoy. Cheers! Peter Simic Your wine, Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Editor/Publisher our ports. Major Sponsors and Supporters Australia WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 9
briefs NEW VICTORIAN VITICULTURE AWARD 2013 as a remote cellar door for local wineries, including Owen’s Eastern Peake and Latta Vino labels. Since then Jenny has PEAK regional industry body Mornington Peninsula Wine has evolved the business into one of the best collections of fine announced the launch of a new viticultural award which will wines from both Central Victoria and around the world to be biennially acknowledge the work of exceptional viticulturists and found outside of Melbourne and Sydney. To complement the their commitment to environmental excellence. wine collection, Jenny opened Dos Deli next door in August 2017, offering a selection of cheese, charcuterie & tasting The award is named in recognition of principal research scientist platters. The two businesses will merge under one banner to in vine physiology and ampelography Dr Alan Antcliff, AM, whose create Winespeake. work was pivotal to the development of the Australian wine industry. The name is a nod to Eastern Peake Winery, which inspired Recognising leading viticultural practices in the region, founders Jenny & Owen to create a business to showcase local producers of the wine industry on the Mornington Peninsula, Sarah and of quality wines. Winespeake will be opening in the old IGA site Bails Myer are the benefactors behind the biennial award with a at 26 Vincent Street in Daylesford. The space will continue to perpetual trophy and $5,000 travel grant to support the winner’s have a strong focus on promoting the best of regional Victoria. pursuit in research and development of practices in viticulture. The deli will offer a large selection of cheeses from producers Applicants will be judged by a well-qualified panel of viticultural like L’Artisan of Geelong, charcuterie from local producers such experts; Mark Walpole, Dr Mary Retallack and John Whiting, with as Salt Kitchen Ballarat and Max & Delilah Daylesford (don’t a comprehensive assessment encompassing all facets of vineyard miss their patés), coffee from Martin Street and baked goods operations. from Le Peche Gourmand in Creswick. “The vignerons of the Mornington Peninsula have long been LEARN CHAMPAGNE ONLINE committed to viticultural excellence and sustainable practices,” said Bails Myer. WINE lovers with time on their hands might want to consider an online study course that will teach them the basics of Champagne. “We have the long game firmly in mind, so it’s important to acknowledge these leaders and thinkers and encourage others Champagne Bureau Australia, the Australian office representing to develop their skills to ensure the wellbeing of our region. Never the Comité Champagne in France, has launched an online platform before has the need for focus on sustainability been so vital. dedicated to Champagne education and designed for industry professionals and wine lovers alike – the Champagne-MOOC. “Sarah and I are thrilled to be supporting this award which will help to enhance the skills library for the Mornington Peninsula and The Massive Open Online Course for Champagne, or the development of our future leaders.” Champagne-MOOC, is a course of study that has been developed by the education department at Comité Champagne in Epernay OUT WITH THE OLD IN WITH THE NEW to deliver accurate information about the Champagne industry. FAREWELL to two of the best-loved gourmet destinations in Anyone can register for the course for free. The course features regional Australia - but hello to a new store that will combine the best of both. Wine and the Country, one of the best wine retailers in Victoria, and next-door sibling Dos Deli in Daylesford have both closed as of June. But owners Jenny and Owen Latta have announced the launch of their new store, Winespeake, which should be open by the time you read this. Jenny and Owen Latta started Wine and the Country in June 10 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
briefs seminars and pro tips from Master of Wine Jérémy Cukierman, as to pass the baton to the extraordinarily capable team that is well as producers and growers from the region. Riggsy’s legacy”. The presentation includes a range of video tutorials and But part-owner Riggsy won’t be leaving Brokenwood educational seminars about Champagne wines with modules on completely - he’ll remain a director and, as a consultant, he’s the production process and terroir, serving and tasting Champagne, agreed to continue to provide Brokenwood with his experience the diversity of the wines, how to pair Champagne with food, and expertise whenever needed. producers’ commitment to the Riggs has led the rise and rise of Brokenwood since the mid- environment and sustainability, 1980s, turning what was originally a hobby farm to an icon the history of the wine, and the Australian winery. This year was his 35th vintage in charge. economics of production. The Brokenwood legacy looks in good shape, with Riggs The Champagne-MOOC is having put together a talented team headed by Stuart Hordern available online 24/7 and can and Kate Sturgess. be completed in stages, on any device to allow for participants COOPERS BACKS SAPPORO BLACK to learn the material at their own pace. THE Australian beer market is a competitive space, but importer Coopers is confident a new-release import - Sapporo Black - will The classic version has grab a share of the market. approximately five hours of content at www.champagne-mooc.com. Sapporo was founded in Japan in 1876 and is Japan’s oldest beer brand. Sapporo Black, a smooth dark lager is being An additional premium version introduced into Australian markets in cans. It is brewed using which comes with extra instruction roasted dark malts that provide distinct coffee and chocolate and tests as well as a MOOC notes. Coopers Premium Beverages brand manager Andrew certificate of completion is Brooks said Sapporo Black was brewed with the attention to available for €49. detail and precision that is a feature of Japanese beers. NEW BLOOD FOR BROKENWOOD “Sapporo is recognised world-wide for the quality of its brewing and its lager is IT IS the end of an era at benchmark Hunter Valley wine regarded as an exemplar producer Brokenwood with the announcement that managing Japanese beer,” he said. director and chief winemaker Iain Riggs was stepping down from both roles at the end of June. A Brokenwood press “Sapporo Black is designed release said the Brokenwood board had agreed that “it’s time to challenge consumers’ perspective of Japanese beer styles while diversifying the portfolio and reaching a broader audience. “It is bold and flavourful, yet smooth and crisp in the classic Sapporo fashion, with a refined hop bitterness complemented by sweet, round fullness. “It pairs well with hearty and spicy dishes such as traditional Asian, Cajun and Latin cuisines. It also works well with crème brulee or stands by itself at barbecues, parties and celebrations.” Sapporo Black is 5% ABV and will be available in the traditional Sapporo 650ml “silver bullet” style can. Brooks said cans would be available from most liquor outlets at around $8 each. October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 11
briefs LEMONS TO LEMONADE, WINE TO GIN Stalin’s Wine Cellar (Penguin, $35) covers the story from his early tip off from a business acquaintance in 1998, through to THE 2020 grape harvest for some Canberra wineries was so his journey to a winery in Tbilisi in Georgia and finally being badly affected by bushfires and smoke taint that no wine could allowed to see the wines. be produced. At Four Winds Vineyard, outside Murrumbateman, Sarah Collingwood, CEO, considered her options. There Although the labels had perished, he maintains an inventory weren’t many. The grapes could be picked and made into he received matched the large quantity of wines while the age other products such as grape jelly, verjuice or brandy. Or gin! of bottles, ullages and the markings of the corks (some clearly visible through the bottle necks) indicated considerable age. The producer well-known for its riesling took those grapes and teamed up with The Canberra Distillery to make its first gin. To help substantiate the find, he removed some wines from the cellar and took one to Chateau d’Yquem in Bordeaux. He “It has been a strange year knowing that we have a large believed it to be from the 1870s (the cork partly read 187-). vineyard and the only thing that it produced this year was a The winemaker, Sandrine Garbay, considered it to be an older gin,” she says. Yquem. Blended with a range of botanicals the riesling-based gin From then on, his recovery of the wines hit problems, in part speaks of the grape’s floral and citrus characters. Four Winds due to some of the shady characters he was dealing with and Vineyard Gin, $85, is available at the winery cellar door and questions over who owned the wines. online at www.fourwindsvineyard.com.au “This was the ultimate cellar,” says Baker today. “If you A TREASURE OF A CELLAR accept that wine is a living, breathing organic product, which I think it is, then these wines have lived through the history SYDNEY wine merchant, John Baker, has stunned the wine of the 20th Century and they almost represent the history of world with the release of a book in which outlines his quest in the 20th Century from the Russian the late 1990s to recover a wine cellar which he alleges once Revolution to the Second World belonged to Joseph Stalin and contained wines that were owned War, and ever ything else that by the last Tsar of Russia, Nicholas II. happened in the 20th Century. In the book, co-written with Nick Place, he claims the cellar “These wines sat there in their contained some of the greatest wines in the world from the sleeping state while all of this was 1800s onwards, including Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1874, going on above them.” Lafite 1877, Margaux 1884 and hundreds of old vintages of Chateau d’Yquem. The story, 22 years in the making, is certainly gaining attention among wine people here and overseas. Were the wines real? Do they still exist? This may not be the last time we hear of Stalin’s Wine Cellar. 12 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
briefs A VERY WORTHY WINE! than 2000 tonnes of GHG emissions through reforestation carbon offsets and soil carbon sequestration. Certification HAVING fought breast cancer and survived, Coonawarra was through Carbon Neutral, Australia’s largest biodiverse winemaker, Kate Goodman, is giving back with a wine she reforestation developer. hopes will raise $70,000 for Breast Cancer Network Australia. Vanya Cullen, managing director and chief winemaker, in Nikkal 2020 Yarra Valley Rosé was released on September announcing the certification paid tribute to the work of her 1 and was a collaboration between Goodman and her friend former production manager, Trevor Kent, who set up the carbon and mentor, Yarra Valley winemaker, Rob Dolan. offset program in 2006, in addition to others on her team. Kate Goodman was diagnosed with breast cancer in 2017. FIGHT FOR RECOGNITION The following year she was awarded Winemaker of the Year at the 2018 Australian Women In Wine Awards for her work DESPITE a recent blow to its application to be acknowledged in helping to re-energise Penley Estate in Coonawarra. Ms as a stand-alone wine region, the winemakers of Wilyabrup Goodman now lives and works in Coonawarra, but grapes in Margaret River remain firmly committed to pursuing their for Nikkal Rosé were sourced from her Yarra Valley vineyard. fight for recognition. In August, the Geographical Indications Committee decided not to make a final determination on the The wine is for sale in six packs at $150 through Ms application citing the fact that there was no agreement, as Goodman’s website www.goodmanwines.com and all profits yet, on the exact boundaries or “attributes” of the proposed will be donated to the Breast Cancer Network Australia. Wilyabrup area which remains a sub-region. A NEGATIVE ATTITUDE Margaret River winemaker, Keith Mugford at Moss Wood is a proponent of the move to make Wilyabrup a region and says A LEADING Australian winemaker has been formally that nothing has changed in the fight for recognition. “The recognised as carbon negative. Cullen Wines in Margaret decision is merely on hold pending consensus on the definition River now sequesters more carbon than it produces. The of the sub-regional boundaries and attributes.” company achieved carbon negative status by offsetting more October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 13
nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW POSSIBLE WORKER SHORTAGES FOR a great deal of uncertainty remaining around border and travel COMING HARVEST restrictions, planning for the 2021 harvest is a complex task with no clear solution on the horizon. THE exceptional 2020 harvest was certainly one silver lining to the covid-19 clouds, but producers now have their attention COVID-19 ECONOMIC CRUNCH focused on potential worker shortages in the coming harvest. The industry relies upon the Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) NEW ZEALAND is fortunate in having been spared much of the scheme, in which workers throughout the Pacific are employed worst impact from the coronavirus pandemic, but it has by no for viticulture and wider horticulture work; in Marlborough, around means avoided the fallout entirely. The country’s strict elimination 75% of pruning and development work is carried out by RSE policy has seen its borders closed to all but returning New workers. Whilst many workers were in the country for the 2020 Zealanders plus a few essential workers since late March, and harvest, a large number went home and are unable to return. The the hospitality and tourism industries have been left reeling from Ministry of Social Development funded up to 200 local Covid-19 both the lack of inbound tourism and Levels 4 and 3 lockdown affected jobseekers to retrain for Marlborough winter vineyard restrictions. The flow-on effect for many wine producers has work, with Wine Marlborough confirming around 40 workers were been profound, with staff shortages and plummeting sales both employed via the scheme. Rising domestic unemployment may domestically and internationally. New Zealand wine chalked up help fill some of the coming shortfall but it is not always easy to record figures in the year ending 30 June 2020, with NZ$1.92m get workers in the right regions and the right times and it seems exports and NZ$500m domestic sales, yet the industry now a deficit is inevitable without ready access to RES workers. With finds itself operating in a completely different landscape with challenges on numerous fronts. NZ’s largest export market, the US, has been hit hard by the pandemic, with a recent Rabobank agribusiness report predicting sales in the vital on-premise channel not bouncing back until well after 2021. This channel is small in terms of volume but delivers all-important access and margins, however RaboResearch senior wine analyst Hayden Higgins estimates that, “the recovery will be led by limited-service restaurants and take-out/delivery, where there is less consumption of premium wine”. While change can bring opportunity alongside uncertainty, the US’s famously convoluted three-tier system makes it difficult to navigate the changing landscape with much flexibility. NZ’s domestic market is also in flux. During lockdown, producers represented in the supermarket duopoly saw sales grow but most 14 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW others faced a sharp drop-off. This was somewhat mitigated by coordinator Raquel Kallas says, “This has the potential to reduce the those with effective online platforms but many others relying upon labour required for weeding in the long-term. Other benefits could cellar door or predominantly on-premise sales face more difficult include increased biodiversity, improved soil structure, reduced runoff and ongoing challenges. Whilst there has been an upswing in and potentially better retention of soil moisture.” domestic tourism with New Zealanders unable to travel abroad, anecdotal chat suggests New Zealanders are not necessarily big Pioneering research into growing hemp amongst vines (see spenders compared with their international equivalents. However, Winestate Annual 2019) is showing a range of benefits. VinHemp New Zealanders pride themselves on their innovative, resilient in conjunction with Callahan Innovations has found no evidence of ‘number 8 wire mentality’. New Zealand Winegrowers comments: cannabinoids in the grapes, meaning hemp crops can be mulched “We will be forced to re-think parts of our workforce, re-imagine our after their seed harvest, creating a natural weed mat. The research tourism activities, and cope with what seems likely to be a global also showed that soils retained their mineral content and had greater recession. For some grape and wine businesses, the outlook may organic matter, soil carbon, and cation exchange capacity. The be challenging. But as an industry, we will get through it.” hemp was able to grow in dry conditions and compacted tractor tyre tracks, thriving when other cover crop species failed. Working with THE MARC OF A GOOD SANITIZER! Babich Marlborough, VinHemp found very few differences between the grapes from the trial and control blocks, suggesting the hemp ONE example of the wine industry rising to the current challenge did not impact fruit ripening, though the resulting wines did show a is a Bragato Research Institute (BRI) project for turning grape significant increase in diversity of native yeast populations. marc (the stems and seeds leftover from pressing) into hand sanitizer. Awarded NZ$84,700 by the Ministry of Business and Cloudy Bay is aiming to be herbicide-free by 2025, running trials Innovation, a pilot study plans to turn winery waste – some across a number of sites to assess different methods. Viticulturist 46,000 tonnes in Marlborough alone - into ethanol, with any Jim White says over the next three years they will be looking at sanitizer made during the eight-month study to be donated to grape quality and yields, financial impacts, and the end result in Marlborough health workers and first responders. BRI chief the glass. Cloudy Bay’s parent company Moet Hennessy intends its executive MJ Loza said the industry was continuously looking Champagne to be herbicide-free by the end of the year and White at alternative uses for grape marc. “Transforming the wine says, “We’re among a growing group of producers who can see industry’s waste into a value stream is a research priority. change coming and are trying to be on the front foot.” Every time we study grape marc, we learn a little more about its potential for a new commercial product.” SERIOUS SUSTAINABILITY STRIDES NEW ZEALAND wine has long prided itself on its strong sustainability ethos, with several projects making serious strides in herbicide-free vineyard cultivation. Villa Maria has been investigating planting native plants and cover crops under vines. Preliminary data from spring/mid-summer suggests little to no impact on water or vegetative growth competition. Project October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 15
europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW TIME TO THINK PROVENCAL PINK THERE’S something about Provence Additional A-list acting aura came from France is the country producing the rosé that has caught the imagination of Johnny Depp, who bought a property in most rosé, with a 30% share of global consumers, celebrities and commercial Provence, near St. Tropez, in 2001. But it production. Although from a small base, companies alike. Is there a Provence pink is Miraval Estate, still co-owned by fellow Australia’s rosé production increased lifestyle? Is it a millennial zeitgeist moment? actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, their by 450% in the period between 2002 There is certainly a Provence rosé style divorce notwithstanding, that shone both and 2014 (2015 joint report between which is often regarded as a benchmark a liquid and lifestyle light on the region in OIV (International Organisation of Vine style for still rosé wine: Liz Gabay MW, 2012, with the launch of their Provence and Wine - a scientific and technical rosé and Provence expert, said they have rosé. Winemaking expertise was hired in intergovernmental organisation) and “southern French ripe fruit, very pale colour, the guise of Marc Perrin, of famed Rhône CIVP). This research also found Aussie a neutrality often described as delicacy, valley property Château de Beaucastel. men reported a similar consumption level and good fresh mineral acidity”. Almost And most recently, home-grown Aussie of rosé to women, in contrast with the more regardless of flavour, paleness of pink has superstar Kylie Minogue launched her typical picture in many other countries become a defining marketing asset, and Provence rosé in May this year. of women drinking more rosé than men. Provence rosé has long been pale. The wines are dry. In total, Provence It is not only ‘celebs’ who are buying into the Provence rosé phenomenon. Provence is in the Mediterranean south makes about 6% of There has been significant traditional of France, stretching 200 km east to wine business investment in the region west, from the eastern Carmargue around all the world’s rosé too, which suggests a solid foundation. Marseille, to a little bit west of Nice. Champagne house Louis Roederer Vineyard area within this covers around wine (and 42% of bought a controlling share in Domaines 27,200 hectares. This is a little more than Ott in 2004. Fellow Champagne house all the vineyards in Victoria. A bit of red France’s rosé). Vranken Pommery owns Château la and white Provence wine is made, but Gordonne. 90% is rosé. In total, Provence makes Consumer demand for rosé, historically about 6% of all the world’s rosé wine a highly seasonal ‘summer’ wine, has But it was arguably a Bordeaux import (and 42% of France’s rosé). As if these been growing fast for some years. A report who set the region on a stellar course. credentials for rosé production were not by the CIVP (the Provence Wine Council) In 2006 Sacha Lichine (owner of fourth enough, Provence also has a research and FranceAgriMer (a national agency for growth Château Prieuré Lichine in centre, solely for rosé wines, established agricultural and fishing products), found Margaux) bought Château d’Esclans in 1999. The region has long been a that between 2002 and 2018, global rosé and set out to create an international leader in the fields of rosé wine quality wine consumption increased by 40%. By brand of Provence rosé. Both the highly and reputation. comparison, total still wine consumption popular Whispering Angel and luxury (i.e. excluding sparkling and fortified) in cuvee Garrus, a barrel-fermented rosé The region also has developed the same period grew by a modest 5%. and one of the most expensive still rosé something of an affinity with celebrity. Rosé now accounts for more than 11% wines available, are the result. Such Actor John Malkovich bought property share of the global still wine market. is the success of Château d’Esclans in 1993, though it wasn’t until 2008 the that in 2019 LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët first vines were planted at the property. Hennessy), a global luxury goods group, 16 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
bought a controlling share of the property. The Provence name has become so CONNECT ON SOCIAL (The group already owns, among others, popular that the region needs to protect WITH WINESTATE Champagne houses Moët & Chandon, its name from those who might hope Krug, Dom Perignon and Veuve Clicquot, for vicarious repute. Such protection is www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine plus Châteaux Cheval Blanc and d’Yquem something we’re more familiar with from in Bordeaux, as well as Cape Mentelle and the Champagne region. Like Champagne, twitter.com/winestateed Chandon in Australia and Cloudy Bay in the Provence appellations are protected NZ.) This wasn’t even the company’s first geographical indications: to be Provence www.instagram.com/winestate/ Provence purchase - earlier the same year rosé the label must, by law, state one of it bought outright Château du Galoupet. the Provence appellations. Gabay said Follow us and keep up to date with “There exist a number of labels which all our latest wine info, tastings, Also in 2019, Chanel Group bought sort of suggest, possibly, that they are competitions and events on Domaine de l’Île on the island of from Provence. The Provence legal facebook, twitter and instagram. Porquerolles in Provence. Akin to LVMH, team is vigilant to make sure no one Chanel has wine property pedigree oversteps the mark.” As though to assert – the fashion company already own authenticity and near-parity of import, on Bordeaux’s Châteaux Rauzan-Ségla, Kylie Minogue’s label, ‘Côtes de Provence’ (Margaux), Canon and Berliquet (both is printed in only marginally smaller font St. Emilion), as well as St. Supéry in than that of the brand owner. California’s Napa Valley. Another newly minted ‘celeb’ rosé Outside interest in the region shows little wine is that of Sarah Jessica Parker; it is sign of slowing down. Earlier in 2020, made in collaboration with a Provence the owner of another Bordeaux Château producer, but it is not a Provence rosé. - Cos d’Estournel (a second growth in Jon Bon Jovi’s instant hit Hampton Water St. Estephe), bought Provence property rosé uses fruit sourced from neighbouring Château La Mascaronne. Languedoc. No overstepping the mark with these two - the labels of both clearly Unsurprisingly, many of the resulting dry, state they’re from the south of France (and pale, delicately flavoured and typically by definition, therefore, not Provence). refreshing wines, are premium-priced. Indeed, Hampton Water is made in The likes of Whispering Angel, Château collaboration with the aforementioned Miraval and Kylie Minogue retail at around Gérard Bertrand. £18 to £20 (AUD$33 to $36), while Château d’Esclans’ Garrus is about £95/$175. A rosé that is now more expensive than Garrus is a new project from Languedoc producer Gérard Bertrand - Clos du Temple – which launched with the 2018 vintage, at about £165/$300. It is a Languedoc, not Provence, wine. October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 17
winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY ANYTHING BUT MARGINAL MAKING a traditional method sparkling industry there. First coming to prominence of chardonnay with the sole intention of wine is a complicated production process. with the establishment of Pipers Brook making a sparkling wine. However, what Not only do the grapes need to be carefully and the work done by the great Andrew makes Hanging Rock Macedon different is grown in a particular cool climate and Pirie, through to the more recent success their use of a solera system for its reserve picked by hand, but the yeast chosen of Accolade wines House of Arras and wine. This is a fractional blending system for the prise de mousse or second their award-winning winemaker Ed Carr. carried out in used barrels that is normally fermentation needs to be a certain type. However, the Macedon Ranges should associated with the production of sherry. It requires specialist equipment as well not be disregarded as a viable sparkling Each year they make their base wine and as a lengthy ageing process. Overall, it wine region given that some sites are a proportion of it is stored in a series of is time consuming and a costly process as cool as Tasmania. Overlooked by the barrels which finally results in a multi- that pushes up the final selling price of the larger companies it does not receive the vintage aged reserve wine. wine. As Patrick Forbes said, in his 1967 coverage or bottle-shop shelf exposure. seminal book entitled Champagne: The The winery is now run by John’s children. wine, the land and the people the process Marginal climates are Daughter Ruth is General Manager Sales shows the “exceptional extent to which it and Marketing whilst son Rob is the enables man to manipulate grape-juice”. what sparkling wine Winemaker. “Dad adopted the solera system in response to the challenges Australia has been making sparkling producers look for. You from the regions climate,” Ruth explains. shiraz since the 1880’s and it has been “The first three vintages were all different; Victoria leading the way at Great Western only have to look at the first one was too hot, the second with Hans Irvine and then Seppelts was perfect for sparkling wine grapes winery, followed in the 1980’s with the Champagne where the whilst the third vintage was cold and wet, establishment of specialist sparkling wine we have a family joke and call this the producers, most notably being Domaine still wines have such ‘Marginal Ranges’ not Macedon Ranges,” Chandon and the inspiring work done by Ruth adds. Marginal climates are what the late Tony Jordan. However, pre-dating high acidity that it makes sparkling wine producers look for. You Domaine Chandon, by a few years, were only have to look at Champagne where the vine plantings undertaken at Hanging them undrinkable. the still wines have such high acidity that Rock in the Macedon Ranges by John it makes them undrinkable. The grapes Ellis. Not having the backing of a famous Macedon Ranges spans a large area need to start-off with plenty of freshness Champagne house means you might not and has an average altitude of just under and that means acidity. If the grapes get have heard of this pioneer. He planted at 500m. It is inland resulting in a degree too ripe and have bags of fruit aromas they a 650m elevation on a cold south facing of continentality and characterised by tend to clash with the autolytic aromas and block in what is one of the coldest wine extremes in cold and heat. Champagne flavours that comes with the secondary regions on mainland Australia, far colder also has a continental climate and fermentation. Blending different years up than the Yarra Valley. You need a cool Macedon has a heat summation similar in a solera system provided Hanging Rock climate to produce fruit for a sparkling to Reims (France). Continental climates with consistency across vintages as well wine as the high acidity and low aromatics tend to have a high diurnal range between as complexity to blend back into the wine. is key to take on the production challenge day and night temperatures which retains of methode traditionalle. acidity in the grapes. Complexity is what is driving several Champagne producers and Houses such Cool climate had become the catch In 1983 John Ellis planted D5V12 and as Bollinger and Krug that have been the phrase of the 21st century, and there MV6 clones of pinot noir and a Swiss clone standard bearers up until the recent rise of has been a rush towards planting in called Mariafeldt as well as four clones Growers Champagne such as Egly-Ouriet Tasmania. Credit must be given to the and Larmandier-Bernier. 18 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
For nearly 30 years Hanging Rock Uniquely continued to make impressive sparkling Yorke wines using up to 50% of their solera wines Peninsula in their assemblage. However, in 2015 they noticed that the solera was finally Cellar Door and Function Centre coming to the end of its life. “The oldest Open 7 days 10am-5pm wine in our solera system was from 1987 and the barrels have never been emptied Maitland, South Australia or washed out so there was an incredible Phone (08) 8834 1258 build-up of tartrates and lees. Whilst this in a way acts as a preserving agent there was barleystackswines.com also a build-up of aldehydes and oxidation was taking over that eventually lead us to the conclusion that the solera system needed to be refreshed and renewed,” Ruth explains. So, the challenge was on to still deliver a consistent house style without relying on old reserve wines. It was always going to be a compromise. The current Macedon NV Cuvee XVII now has a solera component of just three vintages: 2015, 2016 and 2017. However, you can still taste the old solera wines. Their current release Macedon NV Brut LD Cuvee X is a complex late disgorged style. It is drawn from the 1998 vintage with the remaining 50% from 1987-1997 old solera wine. The wine has lovely honey, toast and vegemite aromas producing a long flavoured well-balanced palate. Not surprising their benchmark is Krug. This wine spends 15 years on lees. There is still a number of late disgorged wines to come that have material from the old solera system in them. In this way the winery can continue to show their traditional style whilst giving the new solera a chance to develop. Sometime in the future, Cuvee XIV LD will be the last one that is using the old solera. So, there is another 4 years of LD ahead. October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 19
winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING NEW DIGS - A PICK OF THE BEST GETAWAYS WORLD class has become one of the your attention with one of the world’s located in Mullumbimby, is a boutique most over-used labels. But many times, largest mega-murals, depicting local B&B not far from NSW’s capital of the description is true. Over the past Noongar man, Nathan McGuire, an wellness that reflects the design ethos of few years, a string of new hotels, resorts Indian child and a Middle Eastern its owners, James and Stella Hudson. A and lodges have opened up in the woman, inspired by Matt Adnate, the glass of Champagne is offered on arrival major states and many offer access to noted Melbourne street artist. and there’s a complimentary basket of incredible locations. Here are a few of the local artisanal foods in each room. most interesting for those who love the The arty theme continues in the lobby raw spectacle of a big country. with two huge murals and 650 giclee You can lounge around the magnesium fine art digital prints of Adnate’s most mineral swimming pool or go hiking, walking If you’ve ever fancied the life of a land famous works. To heighten the mood, or mountain-biking. Both activity choices baron, Mount Mulligan Lodge is custom- the hotel offers complimentary art tours, make Blackbird a top choice for couples, made for indulging your dreams. Located in-room art channels and art libraries. All groups of friends or families. There’s also on a 28,000-hectare cattle station 160 of the 250 rooms feature eye-catching a spa service to pamper or massage away kilometres west of Cairns, men once prints and the property is located close any sudden aches and pains. rushed to this rugged slice of Far North Queensland for gold. Today’s “treasure” Imagine waking up in Nightcap National Park, part of the is a direct view of Mount Mulligan, which Gondwana Rainforest of Australia World centres a huge escarpment stretching for a detached pavilion Heritage area, the largest region of nearly 20 kilometres. Only four pavilions subtropical rainforest in the world, is close accommodate 16 guests at the secluded with views of the by if bushwalking and birdwatching are on lodge, which boast soaring ceilings, your to-do list. On-site yoga is also available burnished timber, high thread count rainforest and ocean to really get into the Byron ethos. sheets and wide verandahs. near Byron Bay. Anyone looking to explore the cool One of the best day trips is a visit to climate wine region around Canberra Tyrconnell Mine, which yielded 18,000 to two of Perth’s lifestyle hubs, King on a budget should take note of Abode ounces of gold during its 19th century Street and Elizabeth Quay. The Hyde Murrumbateman. A short drive from heyday. You’ll feel enriched as well Perth Kitchen + Cocktails is only the Canberra city centre, there are 50 chic following a gourmet degustation menu second Hyde lounge in Australia after studios, kitchen facilities and a cosy for dinner, featuring foraged or locally the Hyde Paradiso in Queensland. Relax guest lounge. Part of the eight property grown ingredients and paired with the around the outdoor pool over breakfast, Abode group, all located in Canberra and well-curated wine list. Guests arrive in two lunch or dinner. Enjoy a glass of wine at the NSW south coast, rates begin at $100 major ways - a 35-minute helicopter flight sunset or choose from the cocktail list put per room per night. or a 3-hour 4WD drive from Cairns. A truly together by Tim Philips-Johansson, one luxurious experience for an unforgettable of Australia’s top mixologists. Situated next to Murrumbateman Village foray into the continent’s wide brown land. centre, the hotel is close to local farmers Imagine waking up in a detached markets, artisan bakeries, hip cafes and The Adnate, the most recent addition pavilion with views of the rainforest and some of the ACT’s most famed boutique to Accor’s Art Series hotel collection, ocean near Byron Bay. Blackbird Byron, wineries such as Clonakilla and Shaw is Perth’s most innovative recent hotel Vineyard Estate. Helm Wines, pioneers of opening. The 25-storey high rise grabs the district who specialise in riesling and cabernet sauvignon, is a must-visit for the 20 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
cellar door housed in the heritage-listed Premium Tours offers a range of outings for noted hotelier and owner, David Horbelt, Toual schoolhouse built in 1888. those keen to discover local craft spirits, and business partner, Malcolm Bean. The beer, cider and wine from boutique gin tours sleek retreat is named after three giant Marriott International teamed with one of of Hobart to southern Tasmania wine tours California Redwood trees planted by the Australia’s wealthiest clans, the Schwarz with stops at Coal Valley Vineyard, Pooley original owner of the property, Arthur family of Melbourne, to develop the first Wines and much more. Hardy, the prominent South Australian luxury hotel in Hobart in over a decade. The pastoralist, businessman and politician. Tasman, a 152-room property in Parliament Hotel opening dates are notorious Square, is on schedule to open in March for changing, even without a global Lodge guests can dine at Mount Lofty’s next year and will be part of Marriott’s five pandemic throwing a spanner in the three-hatted Hardy’s Verandah restaurant star The Luxury Collection brand, the first of works. Sequoia Lodge Mount Lofty House and sip wines or cocktails in the Arthur its kind in Australia. is finally slated to open in November. Waterhouse Lounge. There are more Separate to the original Mount Lofty than 60 wineries in the area to sample, The plush heritage building project costing House in the Adelaide Hills, the $15 including Sinclair’s Gully, the only eco- $150 million will feature the Peppina Italian million private retreat offers breathtaking certified winery in the area where you restaurant and Lobby Lounge. A top bolthole views and promises a six-star experience. can watch the local black cockatoos take to plan a whiskey tasting tour of the Apple Overlooking the picturesque Piccadilly flight at sunset. Isle from the renowned Lark Distillery to the Valley, Sequoia is owned and operated by Salamanca Whiskey Bar. Drink Tasmania October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 21
CONSISTENCY IS KEY TAYLORS WINNING RECIPE FOR SUCCESS NIGEL HOPKINS So, do the folk at Taylors Wines feel a bit the entry level Promised Land, through under-appreciated and have they been a commercial level Hotelier range, the WHATEVER you think about winemakers hiding their light under a bushel, if that’s not Estate/Aldi level that won all those stars, the putting show results on their labels, it is too complicated a procedure for a winery? Jaraman regional blend and another four nonetheless quite impressive to come ranges above culminating in the Visionary across a wine shop shelf containing “We’ve always been quiet achievers,” says and Pioneer ranges at around $200 a bottle, a shiraz with no less than eight gold managing director and third generation and finally the pinnacle, Legacy – a single medals on proud display, two of them winemaker Mitchell Taylor. The fact, too, Clare Valley cabernet sauvignon limited to either double or blue-gold, and priced that the family company is based in Sydney 1080 bottles and priced at $1000. at a very modest $16. rather than being domiciled in the Clare Valley, perhaps adds to the reason that, The fact that some of these wines haven’t That was for a Taylors 2018 Clare Valley unlike the Barry family, or the Henschke’s been around for decades, such as Grange shiraz. So it comes as no surprise at all or Hill-Smith’s in the Barossa, the Taylor or Hill of Grace, has also had an impact that Taylors 2018 Aldi Special Release family hasn’t become synonymous with on their lack of public recognition, though Clare Valley Shiraz (RRP $16) - much the the wine region. it hasn’t stopped the gongs from piling up same wine with a little McLaren Vale fruit proving that history or provenance doesn’t - has been given five stars by Winestate’s Yet like those other three family names, always guarantee what’s in the bottle. expert panel and rated one of this issue’s the Taylor family is an equally worthy best buys. member of the 12 (currently 10) Australia’s “My grandfather (Bill Taylor Snr) had a vision First Families of Wine: “Family wineries like to craft a great wine that could rival the famous Perhaps even more impressive for a winery us have to stand up for the quality of the wines of Bordeaux,” Mitchell Taylor says. “To whose star has always seemed to shine a little Australian wine industry,” he says, “and, achieve this goal, he knew he would need less brightly than some of its more prominent unlike some, take a long term view of what the perfect plot of land with the ideal climate. or glamourous regional stablemates, is the we stand for.” When he landed in the Clare Valley, he quickly consistently high rating given to much more discovered its potential to grow exceptional of its portfolio, with its 2018 Taylor Made Although in some ways it’s a relative cabernet sauvignon.” Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Malbec Cabernet newcomer to the Clare region, having Franc blend also winning five stars, along with arrived only in 1969, it has already In 2018, that vision became reality as its 2019 Clare Valley Merlot, while several established a great deal of heritage and The Visionary 2014, the fifth release of of the company’s cabernet sauvignons, a family history – and an extraordinary wine the wine, was crowned World’s Best malbec and an Adelaide Hills chardonnay portfolio that extends all the way from Cabernet at the Concours International all rated highly also. 22 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
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“We’ve always been quiet achievers,” says managing director and third generation winemaker Mitchell Taylor. 24 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
des Cabernet, a major competition held Expansion soon beckoned: his neighbour manager and father Bill as deputy chairman, in France and judged by the country’s to the east had a beautiful patch of land as the second and third generations to run leading sommeliers. with gentle rolling hills and terra rossa the winery, which has now won multiple soils perfect for grape growing. Bill struck environmental awards, and been named “It was surreal,” Taylor says. “The wine a deal that he’d be the one to purchase the one of the ‘Top 5 Wineries in the World’ by we crafted to stand up against some of land should the neighbour ever decide to the World Association of Wine Writers and the best in the world going on to take the sell it, which he did 20 years later. It would Journalists for 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 title for World’s Best Cabernet in the place be forever known as ‘The Promised Land’. – and in 2017 the world’s top winery based where our family journey began.” on global wine show awards. Bill also recognised the potential of Bill Taylor Snr was a prominent publican the adjacent St. Andrews property, first “For us it’s all about consistency,” and wine wholesaler in Sydney with established in 1892, and until 1934 a Mitchell says, “not just having some luck a passion for great wines, especially major wine producer, when it was sold in one wine show.” cabernet sauvignon. Impatient when and ceased production. Taylor bought it winemakers ran out of the wine he in 1995, replanted the vines and the first Meanwhile, those little gold stickers wanted to buy, he decided to get into the Taylors St Andrews wines, now its flagship on their bottles keep piling up. Under- business of making his own and saw the range, was released in 1999. appreciated? Probably not. potential of the Clare region. Mitchell Taylor works with his brothers Local legend Jim Barry helped him Justin as export director, Clinton as general find the site for his first vineyard in 1969. Previous page: Left to right Clinton, Bill, Mitchell and Justin Taylor. The Taylor vineyard and a selection of Taylors wines. Top left: Mitchell Taylor. From left to right: Taylors entrance, Taylor Made wine range, The Legacy wine, pouring a Rosé from Taylor Made range, the vineyard and a selection of wines from the Taylors Estate range. October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 25
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Champion of the Underdog NIGEL HOPKINS AS a champion of relatively unloved grape varieties, winemaker Jo Irvine gives the impression she might be just a bit contrary. “Just a bit?” she responds. “That’s in my nature, just like my father.” Father is, of course, Jim Irvine, famed for his Grand Merlot and acknowledged as Australia’s master of that grape variety which, even his daughter acknowledges, is still a hard sell in the Australian market, though much less so overseas. So, it should be no surprise at all that Jo’s 2016 merlot from her label Lévrier was the only merlot to be awarded five stars in Winestate’s Cabernet & Bordeaux Varietals Challenge. The judging panel couldn’t have said nicer things: “Beautifully aged merlot with great varietal fruit aromas layered with cedary oak characters. Lovely ripe fruit flavours well supported by the oak and succulent acidity.” But when you look back at Jo Irvine’s career it’s also no surprise that she should be at least a little contrary, very much her own person, even when it comes to giving a name to her winery. As a child, before she was sent off to school, she recalls running around her father’s winery, hanging out with her dad, learning the tastes, smells, flavours, tannins and sensations of the winemaking business, so in that sense it was in her blood. But instead of becoming a winemaker, as would have been expected, she became a nurse, in the end a highly skilled operating theatre nurse for 18 years. That career ended when changes in the health system suddenly meant she had to undertake a nursing degree simply to continue what she’d been doing for years. It caused her to wonder if nursing really was what she wanted to do – and if she had to complete a degree, why not make it in winemaking? She was one of very few women to take on the Roseworthy degree course just as it was transitioning to Adelaide University and the Waite, and at a time when there were few opportunities for female winemakers in Australia. But, she says, the more she got into it the more she loved it, having already started helping her father with his sales and marketing at Irvine Wines. October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 27
She headed to the US, eventually doing vintages in the Sonoma My notion in creating Lévrier was and Napa – “where I got bitten by zinfandel – I immediately told Jim to ensure that in some small way I he had to plant some” – interspersed with vintages in the Barossa could give the growers that I work with Yaldara (now 1847) and Charles Cimicki (where her father with a reason to continue to produce was working as a consultant), and at Mountadam. these splendid varieties. If we don’t keep these varieties alive, we’re just not In the early 1990s, she says, “it was really hard for a woman going to be interesting anymore. to get a job as a winemaker,” but she had the opportunity to work alongside Jim as a consultant, learnt a lot very quickly, and by 2003 was able to buy the consulting business, enabling Jim to concentrate on his own winery. Even though by now she had some high-profile clients, all this time Jo was working with her father helping to make his Grand Merlot, doing the tastings and blendings together. In 2010 with her partner Peter and two young boys, Jo established Wine Wise, a 500 tonne purpose built, small batch processing facility in the Barossa Valley, and when Jim decided to sell his winery in 2014 and retire, Jo was ready to launch her own label – Lévrier, a French word meaning greyhound. That, too, is another very individual story: “While I was doing some consulting up in the Riverland, I was on my way home driving back to Adelaide and I could see these cars swerving in the distance as I was coming over the hill,” she says. “As I got closer, I discovered they were swerving around a dog walking on the side of the road.” That dog was an injured greyhound, which Jo took home to a 28 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
Are our range of Variety RRP premium alternative Prosecco $21.00 varietal wines, including Fiano $21.00 selected less familiar Arinto $21.00 varieties of Italian and Tempranillo $21.00 Iberian origin. Rose GSM $21.00 Carmenere $21.00 Fiano $21.00 Durif $21.00 Saperavi $21.00 Vermentino $21.00 Chardonnay $21.00 Graciano $21.00 Lagrein $21.00 Monastrell $21.00 Montepulciano $21.00 I may not speak Italian but I am fluent in Prosecco Trade contact: Distributor contact: Kim O’Hara Bouchon Wines & Spirits Periscope Management 16 Prospect Street, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 Mob: +61 421 077 344 Tel: +61 07 3854 0407 [email protected] [email protected] Distributor contact: Distributor contact: Claret & Co | Scott Teasdale Unique Wine Solutions | Stephen Nankervis 13 View Street, Subiaco WA 6008 PO Box 106, Port Melbourne Vic 3207 Mob: +61 447 087 998 Mob: +61 414 388 046 [email protected] [email protected]
vet who fixed him up. From that moment on Jo decided she loved greyhounds. She now sponsors the Greyhound Adoption Program; she named her winery after the breed and each of her Art Collection labels includes greyhound imagery. That’s one passion. The other is her focus on less mainstream varieties, including a sparkling rosé made from the French grape meslier: “It’s extremely rare and that’s why I like it,” she says. “It has a very different flavour to normal sparkling wines. It originates from Epernay and there is less than 10ha planted worldwide, including what we have planted here in the Adelaide Hills region. “The Barossa is primarily known for its shiraz, and because it is so well known other noble varieties are under threat. We have 8000ha of shiraz but only 33ha of cabernet franc, for example. My notion in creating Lévrier was to ensure that in some small way I could give the growers that I work with a reason to continue to produce these splendid varieties. If we don’t keep these varieties alive, we’re just not going to be interesting anymore.” And that includes merlot, a grape that Jo says has been very badly treated by winemakers in Australia over the years, so much so that it no longer has its own category in national wine shows – now classified under “Any other red”. “The public don’t get to see the best merlots or understand it very well,” she says, adding that because it is late ripening it is usually picked much too early, and then used for blending with other varieties, often to make up the 15 per cent of ‘something else’ allowable with a supposedly single variety shiraz or cabernet sauvignon. Jo pays her growers up to twice the going rate to wait until her merlot is properly ripe: “It has to be worthwhile to grow merlot properly,” she says. “It’s all about concentrating on the variety and getting it right. “Even then, it’s a hard struggle to sell merlot in Australia – but when people taste a properly made merlot, they love it.” Starting page: Jo Irvine and Lévrier by Jo Irvine Barossa Valley Merlot 2016. Previous page; top to bottom: Jo and James Irvine, Jo Irvine in the winery. This page; top to bottom: Jo with her greyhound, Jo at home with her greyhound. 30 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
Family operated handcrafted basket pressed small batch vintages 50 years experience JofoionplriopmSfeofixrhtectereludsluln'ssariitvenWyelediatsntopseheebsceCu!ialyulb [email protected] www.ralphfowlerwines.com.au
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THE STARS ARE ALIGNED HHHHH CABERNET & BORDEAUX CHALLENGEXOnly 16 wines from 228 tasted received our highest accolade of five stars in this issue, ranging across diverse brackets from Under $30 to $2,000. Here we profile their results for your enjoyment. WINES UNDER $30 Mr Riggs Outpost Coonawarra Cabernet 2019 Equal Top In Category A great elegant example of the variety with lifted blue fruit and spicy oak bouquet. Perfect palate weight, silky smooth in the mouth and with loads of flavour. Will age well. $25 5+ years Roasted Lamb Shank with Garlic and Rosemary. www.mrriggs.com.au www.facebook.com/mrriggswineco @mrriggswineco Taylor Made BDX Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot Malbec Cabernet Franc 2018 Equal Top In Category A spicy and minty cooler climate style. “A peppermint pattie personified,” declared one judge. A pretty nose, soft in the mouth, velvety tannins and great palate length. $25 5+ years Chocolate Raspberry Pudding. www.taylorswines.com.au www.facebook.com/taylorswines @taylorswines @taylors_wines RedHeads Nobs & Snobs Clare Valley Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Top In Category Subtle and somewhat restrained dark spicy fruit bouquet with licorice nuances and very good concentration of dark varietal fruit flavours across the palate. $28 5+ years Slow-cooked Pork Belly with Barbecue Sauce or Chinese Spice. www.redheadswine.com/nobsandsnobs www.facebook.com/redheadswine @redheadswine @RedHeadsWine October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 33
THE STARS ARE ALIGNED HHHHH WINES $30-$40 Walter Wines Federation Hill Single Vineyard Mudgee NSW Cabernet Merlot 2017 Equal Top In Category Dense dark fruit fragrances with a soy-like edge leading on to a lovely savoury chocolaty palate with good flavour depth, great structure and a solid tannin structure. $30 5+ years Authentic Italian-style Bolognese or Ragu. www.walterwines.com.au www.facebook.com/walterwinesmudgee @walter_wines_mudgee Bowen Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Equal Top In Category Brooding dark spicy fruit bouquet; loads of blackcurrants and Ribena- like characters. A very structured and “masculine” palate with dense blue fruit flavours and full-on tannins. $34 5-7 years Red meat, pasta dishes, blue and vintage cheeses. www.bowenestate.com.au @bowenestate Lévrier by Jo Irvine Barossa Valley Merlot 2016 Top In Category Beautifully aged merlot with great varietal fruit aromas layered with cedary oak characters. Lovely ripe fruit flavours well supported by the oak and succulent acidity. $35 5+ years Pan-Seared Duck Breast with Blueberry Sauce. www.levrierwines.com.au www.facebook.com/Levrier-by-Jo-Irvine @levrierbyjoirvine 34 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
XCABERNET & BORDEAUX CHALLENGE WINES $40-$60 Grey Sands The Mattock Tasmania Merlot Malbec Cabernet Franc 2015 Top In Category A younger greener style – very elegant and very varietal with a great nose and peppery rhubarb-like fruit flavours with some fabulous tannins. Very well-made wine. $45 5+ years Mediterranean Lamb Burgers or Classic Beef Bourguignon. www.greysands.com.au www.facebook.com/greysandsvineyard @grey_sands_vineyard @GreySandsV Grounded Cru Inc McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Equal Top In Category Vibrant purple wine. A powerful complexity of lifted chocolaty blueberry aromas and pure plum-like varietal fruit and sweet oak flavours with seamless integration of acid and tannins. $50 5+ years Porcini Mushroom Goat Cheese Risotto. www.groundedcru.com.au www.facebook.com/groundedcru @groundedcru groundedcru Shingleback D Block Reserve McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Equal Top In Category Delightful primary fruit fragrances of cassis and olive tapenade. Palate has all the right elements with the oak, tannin and acid in perfect harmony. “Less is more,” said one judge. $55 5+ years Hoisin Roast Duck with Soba Noodles. www.shingleback.com.au www.facebook.com/shinglebackredknot @shinglebackwine shinglebackwine October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 35
THE STARS ARE ALIGNED HHHHH WINES $60-$80 Clarence Hill Reserve McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Equal Top In Category Lively and fresh with intense cassis aromas and nuances of dark chocolate. Powerful full flavoured palate with ‘serious’ oak in balance with the fruit and fine assertive tannins. $70 5+ years Confit Duck, Roast Lamb or Pot Sticker Dumplings. www.nhwines.com.au www.facebook.com/NHWines twitter.com/NHWine d’Arenberg The Coppermine Road McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Equal Top In Category A huge mature cabernet with lots of everything – black cherries, olive tapenade and roasted meat characters all wrapped up in up-front firm and assertive tannins. $76 10+ years Beef Fillet with Panisse Chips, Sautéed Brassicas, Radish Remoulade and Porcini Glaze. www.darenberg.com.au www.facebook.com/darenbergwine @darenbergwine twitter.com/darenbergwine Plantagenet Wyjup Collection Mt Barker Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Top In Category A complex bouquet of cassis fruit, olives and herbs and an interesting flavoursome palate with seamless integration between rich fruit and oak and supported by fine tannins. $80 10+ years Port Wine Braised Beef Short Ribs. www.plantagenetwines.com www.facebook.com/plantagenetwines @plantagenetwines twitter.com/PlantagenetWine 36 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
WINES $100-$200 Yarra Yering Dry Red Wine No. 1 Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Malbec Petit Verdot 2017 Equal Top In Category An elegant, balanced and varietally pure deep purple wine with lovely lifted fruit characters with the slightly gravelly oak in a supporting role and some very elegant tannins. $125 20+ years Roasted Beet Salad with Shallot and Black Walnuts. www.yarrayering.com www.facebook.com/Yarra-Yering @yarra_yering twitter.com/yarrayering Blue Pyrenees Estate Richardson Reserve Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Equal Top In Category Nose is an aromatic mix of olive tapenade and blue fruits with an earthy edge. Soft and “welcoming” palate structure with lingering cool red fruit supported by vanillin oak. 5+ $160 20+ years Filet Mignon with Rich Balsamic Glaze. www.bluepyrenees.com.au www.facebook.com/bluepyrenees @bluepyrenees WINES $200+ Bec Hardy Wines Pertaringa Tipsy Hill McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Equal Top In Category Described as a “tight sleeper,” by one judge. Subtle dark inky bouquet and wonderful length, intensity and vitality of blackcurrant fruit characters on the beautifully balanced palate. 5+ $295 10+ years Venison Medallions with a Parsnip Puree and Roasted Baby Beetroots. www.bechardy.com.au www.facebook.com/pertaringawines @pertaringawines Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru Classe Pauillac France Cabernet Blend 2016 Equal Top In Category A beautiful wine – long, lingering and powerful with a lovely complexity of cedar, cigar box and cassis aromas and a very tight, meaty/savoury palate with chocolaty development. $2,000 Many years ahead of it! 20+ At this price - drink it alone or with whatever you like! www.chateau-mouton-rothschild.com October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 37
sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING PETER Zuzza, the owner of La Disfida, is both dishes were a benchmark of modern The bar menu includes arancini, a member of Sydney’s restaurant royalty. Italian fusion - saffron pappardelle with cheeseburger spring rolls, charcuterie and His family ran The Mixing Pot in Glebe, long line snapper, chilli and cherry tomato cheese boards and shiraz butter duck paté. long one of the best Italian restaurants in and orrechiette with Italian pork and fennel But the major magnet for diners are the the Inner West. Ten years ago, Zuzza took sausage, cima di rape and truffle. Sweet giant jaffles which elevate the homely snack his considerable expertise to La Disfida tooths were more than satisfied with the to gourmet status. Choose from quattro and added to the restaurant’s reputation raspberry creme brule and vanilla bean formaggi, cognac, mushroom and cheese for wood-fired pizzas with an authentic gelato and burnt orange caramel. and other upscale fillings. There’s also two bar menu, handmade pastas and specials sweet versions - banoffee (banana toffee like the popular polenta chips with Zuzza, working with sommelier Simone caramel) and hazelnut crunch. Hendriks’ gorgonzola sauce. A wine connoisseur, Busi, has come up with a wine list that is Cognac & Wine, Shop 5, 29 Holtermann St, he also tagged the label enoteca onto alone worth the trip. Awarded one wine Crows Nest; phone (02) 9439 2222. La Disfida and introduced an extensive, glass in Australia’s Wine List of the Year Italian-oriented wine list. 2019 awards, there is a strong focus on Uniqueness is the drawcard at Little Italian grapes, including natural wines, Lagos, Sydney’s only Nigerian restaurant. To gild the lily further, Zuzza has collaborated wines aged in amphora or concrete and Adetokunboh Adeniyi came to Australia with award-winning chef, Danny Russo, to indigenous Italian grapes. Australian, New in 2016 via Romania and Dubai and up the destination dining ante. Russo is the Zealand and Spanish wines are also in the discovered that West African cooking owner and creative director of the Russolini mix to appeal to all tastes. We chose a 6 Mura wasn’t even on the radar. He teamed up Group consultancy, in addition to being a GIBA Vermentino 2018 from Sardinia and a with two compatriot chefs and they began master of modern Italian cuisine. He scored Monte Ronca Valpolicella Superiore 2018. by selling jollof rice, Nigeria’s national dish, a chef’s hat three years in a row at L’Unico in Together with a glance back at the mural of and spicy stews at street markets in 2018. Balmain and also helmed the ranges at Lo La Disfida di Barletta, it was hard to suppress Last year, Adeniyi did a test-run with a pop- Studio in Surry Hills, which was tapped by a cry of Viva Italia! La Disfida, 109 Ramsay St, up located in Earl’s Juke Joint, the popular Conde Nast Traveler in its annual Hot Tables Haberfield; phone (02) 9798 8299. New Orleans-style bar in Newtown. list. Lauded as one of Sydney’s most inventive chefs, he has also honed his skills in London, Advertising exec, Jakob Overduin, and The temporary home was a success and Rome and Asia. business partner, James Knight, wanted to Adeniyi opened Little Lagos earlier this year. keep things simple at Hendrik’s Cognac & The food and the decor are authentic and Perennially popular, the romance of La Wine. Opened in August, the Crows Nest bar diners are split between curious locals and Disfida starts with its name. Named after pays homage to Overduin’s cognac-loving nostalgic West Africans. Adeniyi’s hearty a duel between 13 French knights and the father and his belief that France’s finest has goat stew has appeared on SBS Food and same number of their Italian counterparts huge appeal to younger drinkers. stews with a similar tomato base but spiced near Trani in 1503, La Disfida di Barletta (The differently form the backbone of mixed meat Challenge of Barletta) is central to the novel, There’s certainly plenty on offer to please and chicken stews. The flaky Nigerian meat Ettore Fieramosca, written by 19th century fans and would-be converts from 30 cognacs, pie does brisk business and asaro (yam politician and novelist, Massimo d’Azeglio, cocktails such as Between the Sheets and a pottage) and ewagonyi (black-eyed peas a keen proponent of the reunification of Italy. 100-strong wine list with over 20 by the glass. in chillies) satisfy vegetarian tastes. A real treat when you’re tired of the usual suspect You can feel the pride in all things Italian The bar manager, Edward Wright, has cuisines. Little Lagos, 125 Enmore Rd, the minute you walk in the door at La Disfida. worked as a personal butler in The Goring Enmore; phone 0416 482 820. The feeling continues as you peruse the Hotel in London, where Kate Middleton stuzzichini (starters) lineup, including stayed on the night before her wedding to All images on this page: Delicious food from la Disfida zucchini flowers stuffed with goat’s cheese Prince William. Just the right touch when you restaurant. and mozzarella wrapped in speck cooked in are sipping top-of-the-line cognacs such as a wood-fired oven and mains of housemade Hennessy XO at $32 a nip. pasta such as spaghetti with mussels, garlic and white wine. But we had come to sample the specials lineup created by Russo, which changes weekly. There were 10 share plates to choose from and we plumped for the seared beef carpaccio alla Cipriani with fried rocket and salsa rosa, the wild asparagus, 63degree egg, truffle and pecorino romano and wood fire roasted Tasmanian octopus with roast cherry tomato and nduja salsa - all of which were a first-rate combination of textures, flavour and presentation. Pasta was next on the hit list and, again, 38 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN MELBOURNE has been quiet. In the midst of phone (03) 9663 3038. www.movida.com.au The popular diner, that takes its menu our second lockdown the beloved hospitality Chef Paul Cooper of Bianchet Bistro in the influences from Spain and Portugal has industry - restaurants, cafes, retailers and kept its regulars happy by making sure their bottle shops - all bunkered down for the Yarra Valley has shifted his business model famous Kingfish Pancetta can be delivered long haul of Stage 4 restrictions. As we to establish Bianchet Providore and Yarra as well as Pork, morcilla and chickpeas, mentioned in the last Grapevine, takeaway Valley Ketchup. the very decadent Jamon croquetas and and delivery is still allowed under Stage 4 but Portuguese pork and clams. the uncertainty of what our industry will look Bianchet Providore has allowed Paul to like in the months to come induces anxiety continue to indulge his love of the region’s Chef Matt McConnell is also making in many. Still, we are Melbourne, a confident produce. He utilises vegetables from his own his own chorizo sausage and serving it city and as always, we adapt, we keep going kitchen garden to sell fresh in the Providore with cider and beans. There’s a savvy and as always, there is still so much delicious and stocks local producers including Yarra drinks list including Valformosa ‘MVSA’ food out there to choose from. Valley truffles (seasonal), Kennedy & Wilson Cava Rosado, NV; Gigi Bianco, 2018, Chocolate and Yarra Valley Gin Pig (pork Trebbiano, Toscana, Italy and Bodegas Frank Camorra and his team at the award- products from pigs fed the spent botanicals y Vinedos Alnardo ‘PSI’, 2014. winning MoVida established the Menu Del from Four Pillars Distillery). Dia during the first lockdown. They put the Bar Lourinha, 37 Little Collins St. idea to bed once Melbourne reopened but You’ll find house-made jams, perhaps Melbourne; phone (03) 9663 7890. www. decided to bring it back during Lockdown 2. orange marmalade or Dragonfruit, next to barlourinha.com.au Every Friday and Saturday, MoVida granola, butters and salts. Paul has also There’s always a positive somewhere deliver a box packed full of ready-to- set up a bakery within the Providore, making and the fact you can buy dinner from eat provisions, inspired by comfort food sourdough loaves and sweets such as legendary restaurants like Di Stasio abuelas (grandmothers) of Spain would put meringue and macarons. Citta on Spring Street to enjoy at home, together for when their family would return is an unexpected luxury. home. The menu covers breakfast, lunch In this restructure, he has taken the and dinner for two, with such generous opportunity to work on a long-held idea and Owner Rinaldo Di Stasio has designed portions that leftovers are inevitable. establish, Yarra Valley Ketchup, a Ketchup a menu of comforting classics like the Company of well-crafted ketchups to sell in Lasagne Pasqualina oozing tomato and The menu includes their freshly baked the Providore and to serve as a condiment mozzarella and Paccheri pasta with a lush MoVida sourdough and varies regularly (but with the Providore’s Pithiviers. Bolognese ragu and Pollo Arosto; roast is always delicious!). Think, Jamon Iberico chicken, seasoned with rosemary and garlic. or cuttlefish - braised in an Andalusian-style, Paul is making the French-style pies Premixed cocktails, Negroni and Martini, even with chorizo and chickpeas. Mains may with fillings like Chicken, Corn and Green Brandy Alexander are available as well as a include a roasted half free-range chicken with Beans; Pork cider, apple, Brussels sprouts wine list featuring Di Stasio’s own Yarra Valley agridulce sauce or a slow-cooked Birregurra and Choucroute, and red curry duck with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. lamb shoulder with red pepper and Fino braised red cabbage. sherry. MoVida, 1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne; With this lockdown, the quiet and the Ketchup flavours include: Traditional Tomato restrictions, Melbourne knows that once Ketchup, Blueberry Beetroot Ketchup, we reopen, we’ve got an awful lot to look Pumpkin Ketchup, Hot spicy Ketchup and forward to. Green Fried Tomato Ketchup. Di Stasio Citta, 45 Spring Street, Prepared meals to take-home, reheat Melbourne; phone (03) 9070 1177. www. and eat also feature at the Providore and distasio.com.au/citta. Edge Hospitality. The selection includes Cassoulet of duck leg, beef cheek with Top left: Food from Bianchet Providore. mashed potato, mushroom and bacon, and Bottom left: Yarra Valley Ketchup. French Onion soup. Bottom right: Pie from Bianchet Providore and Yarra Valley Ketchup. Bianchet Providore & Yarra Valley Ketchup, 187 Victoria Rd, Chirnside Park; phone (03) 8288 1844. www. bianchetwinery.com.au/shop. Another much-loved restaurant, Bar Lourinha on Little Collins Street in the CBD has set-up their weekend boxes for pickup or delivery from Thursdays to Saturdays. October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 39
adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS IT takes a great deal of confidence to The menu covers a lot of culinary northern Friuli Venezia Giulia background to open a new restaurant in the middle geography, which is Liston’s special create a small but very diner-friendly menu. of a pandemic and all the business strength. Start with shallot pancakes or crisp constraints that involves, but Adelaide wontons with whipped edamame, move on There’s no better way to start a meal restaurant czar Simon Kardachi is to tuna tataki with ponzu sauce, ginger oil here than a plate of whipped Kangaroo nothing but confident that restaurant life and wasabi, perhaps some scampi and Island ricotta with local honey mopped will return to normal, sometime. ginger dumplings or blue swimmer crab up with puffy, deep-fried gnocco fritto. udon noodles. More substantial dishes might include With a dozen or so establishments now Adelaide Hills lamb with marsala jus and dotted around the city, including high The lengthy list of tempura dishes sage butter, or tommy ruffs with capers, flyers Osteria Oggi and Shõbõsho, it’s include shiitake mushrooms with wagyu butter and lemon. hardly surprising that after a rare misstep mince and karashi mustard or potato opening a rather fancy chicken shop with WA truffle and parmesan, while the With a reduced seating capacity of just 18, Joybird which didn’t take flight, he’s very barbecue selection ranges from a wagyu Nido currently has staggered dining times quickly replaced it with ShoSho, a sort of cheeseburger with tea pickle and smoked – lunch sessions at 12pm and 1.30pm, and little sister to Shõbõsho. tomato to a wood roast market fish with three dinner sessions at 5.45pm, 7.15pm ginger soy, leeks and onions. and 8.45pm. Open for lunch and dinner Like Shõbõsho, which is heavily influenced Tuesday to Sunday. Nido, 160 King William by Chinese, Korean and Taiwanese, as ShoSho certainly looks the part, with a Road, Hyde Park; phone (08) 8373 2044. well as Japanese techniques and flavours, very stylish Japanese-inspired fitout by local ShoSho has acclaimed chef Adam Liston design firm and Kardachi favourite studio- The massive disruption in our restaurant overseeing things, with head chef Yumi gram and custom-made crockery. Open industry has led to a rapid shift in the way Nagaya who has worked with Liston since for lunch and dinner Monday, Wednesday some chefs see the future, and Paul Baker, Shõbõsho opened three years ago. to Sunday. ShoSho, 164 King William Road, who made the Adelaide Botanic Gardens Hyde Park; phone (08) 8349 0891. restaurant one of the state’s finest, has While the restaurant does not serve jumped ship to establish Chefs on Wheels, ‘traditional’ Japanese, there is one key After operating on King William Rd for which offers a selection of ready-made Japanese influence, however, that’s also more than 20 years, Kardachi has come dishes from some of Adelaide’s best chefs a major point of difference for ShoSho - a to learn what is likely to fly, what appeals and restaurants for home delivery. focus on tempura. Diners will have it served to the local market, and what will attract to order, just as in Japan, it would be served people from outside of the area and you Baker took over a former pasta factory directly over the counter by the chef and just have to walk a few metres down King with its large preparation kitchens and eaten immediately. William Road to find another example in cool storage, where some of the dishes Nido, which Kardachi owns in partnership and bulk pasta is made, with the rest The secret to great tempura, Liston with star chefs Max and Laura Sharrad. being prepared in chef’s own kitchens. says, is to sift and then freeze the flour as well as the cooking oil, a blend of While Max was named Australia’s best These include restaurants such as the sesame, vegetable and grapeseed young chef a couple of years ago, it’s Salopian Inn (Karena Armstrong) and oils: “We’ve mastered techniques, Laura who has made headlines more Soi 38 (Terry Intarakhamhaeng), while nailed working with fire, perfected base recently as the runner-up in MasterChef Emma McCaskill (former head chef at sauces,” he adds. “The team have been 2020. Not surprisingly her star power has Sparkke) contributes dishes such as free- working together for over three years, been a great attraction, with the restaurant range butter chicken alongside Terry’s we’ve had time to hone our craft.” filled to its COVID-reduced capacity, massaman beef curry and roti bread or though you’re more likely to see her on the Karena’s steamed pork buns with hot floor rather than Nido’s tiny open kitchen, chilli sauce. All the dishes are freshly which is mostly Max’s domain. made with 10 days refrigerated life or can be frozen. Orders taken Monday And while there’s no doubt Laura’s skills to Thursday for next day delivery or are evident in Nido’s handmade pasta collection. Chefs on Wheels, 89 Lewis dishes – such as maccheroni with braised Road, Glynde; phone (08) 8120 1866. lamb, peppers and chilli, or gnocchi with pork ragu, Max has drawn on his family’s Top right: ShoSho restaurant interior. Bottom left: Tuna tataki from ShoSho restaurant. 40 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL ITS location, perched over a wide reach of For the first couple of years it was Tequila, Mescal and Sotol in town. Level the snaky Brisbane River, overlooking the standing room only at the uber popular eleven - Maya, 757 Ann Street Fortitude City and the Kangaroo Point cliffs became Eleven Rooftop Bar, perched as the Valley; phone (07) 3067 7447. as Queensland quintessential as its striking name suggests on the eleventh floor of open-plan architecture. Stokehouse Q, a nondescript Fortitude Valley highrise. Leila Amirparvis closed CJ’s Secret sister venue to the famed St Kilda haunt The roof folds back for sun basking and Pasta Club in West End early this year and was embraced by Brisbanites who flocked day drinking and its lounge style dining now she and partner Darcy Adams have to the bar and the busy restaurant and event with views across the city to Mount moved up the road and opened the retro- spaces in droves. But that was pre covid-19. Cootha and beyond. Like most venues, inspired Pasta Club in the vacant corner Recently Owner, Frank van Haandel pandemic restrictions closed the popular tenancy previously occupied by Flora by announced that the Queensland outpost rooftop watering hole and now owners Greenhouse Canteen on Boundary Street. had been sold (after being shuttered since Katie and Jason Coats have taken the March due to the pandemic). opportunity to rebrand it as Maya, a Cosy dark and moody, a disco ball Citing border closures and the difficulties of Mexican pop-up that seats 90 socially glitters above the room and the record re-opening it with much of the management distanced patrons in an open-air setting. player that featured at the previous venue team based in Melbourne, the iconic location has been installed and the team welcomes has been taken over by another southerner, Once seated in the u-shaped lounge BYO vinyls as well as beers and wine while John Fink of the Fink Group, who own banquettes it’s time for guac and chips, they await a liquor license. OTTO in both Sydney and Brisbane (as well battered jalapenos, ceviche with tamarind as several other high profile venues in and and lime and some ‘illegal’ short ribs with Pasta is handmade daily and you can around Sydney). chipotle bbq and ‘illegal’ mescal glaze. expect favourites like fresh burrata doused in The fish tacos are battered snapper, salsa verde, truffled mushroom arancini and Currently located at the opposite end of the chicken is pulled and served with pumpkin agnolotti with pine nuts and burnt the CBD, Fink was enticed by the absolute guacamole and lashings of pico di gallo butter. Flora by Greenhouse Canteen, 237 riverfront location stating that he saw the and the slow cooked pork has pineapple Boundary St West End; phone 0407 577 707. OTTO brand as predominantly a waterside and crackling. For those looking for a operation - the Sydney venue sits on main course there’s a flank steak with As James Street wakes up from its Covid Sydney harbour at Woolloomooloo - the chimichurri, market fish with jalapeno slumber there’s a new chef at the burners of relocation will happen at the beginning beurre blanc or roasted pumpkin with The Lobby Bar at the Calile Hotel. Andrew of 2021 with the restaurant trading on in pomegranate and pumpkin mole. Gunn is just that, having hailed from a 6-year its current location until then. Otto, 4/480 stint in Paris working in numerous Michelin- Queen Street Brisbane; phone (07) 3835 You can also expect a slew of inventive starred venues as well as an earlier stint at 2888. Stokehouse Q, Sidon Street South margherita’s - think watermelon, agave Sydney’s now defunct Becasse. Brisbane; phone (07) 3020 0600. and curacao - as well as a sturdy wine list and possibly the largest collection of He began his career here in Brisbane at the much-loved Isis Brasserie in Fortitude Valley. Owner Simon Hill morphed Isis into the much lauded Ortiga and now runs Alto, a riverfront Italian at the Powerhouse Arts Complex. Open every day to service in-house guests as well as the public, breakfast offers a big ‘hot English’ style plate as well as shakshuka, granola bowls and a croque monsieur with melting comte cheese. At lunch there’s a confit duck baguette, buckwheat risotto with peas and watercress and in the evenings there’s a tasting menu featuring quail escabeche, chorizo stuffed squid with pil pil, fish tacos with pico di gallo and a tonka creme brulee to finish. The Calile Collection of signature cocktails includes some exotic blends such as the Honey Sour with honey water, Glenlivet, gingerbread and aquafaba all poured over ice. Calile Hotel, 48 James Street Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3607 5888. Top left: Food from Maya restaurant. Bottom left: Maya restaurant interior/exterior. Bottom right: Food from Maya restaurant. October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 41
winewords L E S S C H I R ATO - C E O VITTORIA FOOD & BEVERAGE KARYN FOSTER I’ve invited you for an interview for Did any one thing or person make or the Business Excellence Award in the Winestate readers because of Vittoria influence the Vittoria of today? category of Food, Wine and Beverage. Coffee, I had no idea how broad your Many people have had an influence on the · In 2006 Vittoria Coffee was awarded business was…what makes Vittoria success of Vittoria Coffee and it has been a the prestigious “Supplier of the Year Food & Beverage special? continual building process which started in Award” – restaurant and Catering NSW / The family culture – great people who 1958 and was carried on from the founders ACT Metropolitan Awards. As an industry do the work and love the business. We by Les Schirato the CEO, and today onto voted award, Les’ contribution to Australia’s love the business and care about quality/ his son Rolando Schirato, as leaders but food and coffee culture was recognised. people/future. also by the many hard working staff. It’s · In 2004 Vittoria Coffee was awarded the culture that makes it work, where you first place in the Innovation category by Do you identify as Vittoria Coffee, have our staff’s children who grow up the Australian Marketing Institute Awards, Vittoria Food & Beverage or Cantarella going into supermarkets, wanting to fix for the ‘Café at Home’ pure coffee aisle Bros? supermarket shelves because they feel a activation project executed nationally Vittoria F&B. part of the business. We know the staff and throughout Woolworths supermarkets. their families. · In 2004 Vittoria Coffee was awarded the Give Winestate readers a snapshot of National Multicultural Marketing Award for Vittoria’s position in the food, beverage Wholesale? Retail? Production? How do the Vittoria Coffee Heritage campaign in and hospitality industries. the pieces fall together? the Big Business Category. This campaign Vittoria Coffee is the market leader in the We have the largest pure coffee production celebrated the contributions made by total pure coffee market in supermarkets facility in Australia and we are the largest Italian immigrants to Australian culture. and has over 25% market share of the capsule manufacturer in Australia, with a · In 2004 Cantarella Bros was awarded $360 million category. Vittoria dominate state of the art roasting and packing facility. the Australian Family Business of the Year in the beans and ground area with 38% Wholesale – we operate out of all the major – 2nd Generation Winner for successfully market share. states in Australia with our own warehouse/ introducing Australians to their now well- This year Vittoria made a major launch distribution and sales staff that supply over known coffee culture. in the Capsule Category with Nespresso 5000 cafes and restaurants, 5-star hotels, · In 2002 at the National Business GIO compatible Aluminium capsules the pubs, clubs, casino, airlines, independent Star Awards, Vittoria Coffee was awarded only Aluminium capsule manufactured stores and supermarkets. with GIO’s fastest growing business award. in Australia. Vittoria also has its own closed system – In a very competitive market, how does Les Schirato: the Espressotoria system which is unique Vittoria stand out? · On the 19th March 2017, Les Schirato to Vittoria. Vittoria’s ability to continually replicate was awarded the high distinction of the quality and consistency. There’s a reason Knight in the National Order of the Merite Family has always been a part of why Vittoria can be sold in supermarkets, by the Ambassador of France, on behalf of the Cantarella Brothers business… the best restaurants, the best hotels – the President of the French Republic for his describe how important family is to the because of the passion and attention to work in trade and tourism. organisation. detail and because of its ability to service · In 2016 Les Schirato was awarded the The company values are all based on so many different areas of the industry United Nations Association of Australia family values and I have my son, Rolando in Australia. (UNAA) Lifework Individual Award for Schirato, who is the Managing Director his contributions to the Australian coffee and my daughter, Gabriella Schirato, who Checklist of milestones? Awards? industry and the Food & Beverage industry recently returned to the business and at large. For services to the community and heads up People and Culture. We have Cantarella Bros: philanthropic contributions to health, youth, long serving employees with multiple family · In 2014 – Woolworths Finalist – Supplier rural areas, social welfare and those less staff members working for us. of the Year. fortunate. For investing time and mentoring · In 2014 – Woolworths award for of youth in business and talent. “Innovator of the Year”. · In 2013 Les Schirato was inducted into · In 2009 Woolworths named Cantarella the Italian Chamber of Commerce as well Bros as the Woolworths Supplier of the Year. as the Industry’s Hall of Fame. This honour · In 2008 the Italian Chamber of was in recognition of his outstanding career Commerce awarded Cantarella Bros with and cultural achievements to date. 42 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
· In 2013 Les Schirato was announced Is a perfect coffee as important as a A favourite wine experience? What? as an ambassador for the Italian Chamber magnificent glass of wine? Where? When? for Commerce. There are many similarities between Travelling down the canals in Burgundy · In 2008 Les Schirato was awarded a coffee and wine – coffee is a fruit and its by barge and doing wine tasting at the member of the Order of Australia (AM). quality varies from location and year to Chateaux. · In 2008 Les Schirato was honoured year. Coffee is also blended to maintain with the CIRA Award, for his outstanding consistency but unlike wine coffee does A celebration – what’s your preferred contribution to Italian Culinary Culture. not get better with age. beverage and why? · In 2001 Les Schirato was named Preferred beverage is always Australian Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year What do you wish for the future? wine – there’s just such a great variety of (consumer and industrial goods). For COVID-19 to end and for restaurants top-class wines, discovering new brands. · In 1998 Les Schirato was awarded the and coffee shops to be able to open up Paul Harris Medal by the Belrose Rotary again. What do you do to unwind? Club for Vittoria’s ongoing help given to Yoga and bike riding and a glass of wine Camp Quality children’s cancer charity. What has been your greatest with friends. achievement/honour? Do you play business by the book, go Seeing my children develop and grow to be Choose four dream dinner guests? with gut, or trust instinct? not only strong individuals with good hearts Barrack Obama, Bruce Springsteen, All of the above. but also with great business acumen who Anthony Hopkins and my mother. are willing to carry on the family tradition What was your greatest risk? and who have a passion for the business. Name your ideal time, venue, food and Living through the tough times and the wine match. credit squeeze of the 80’s and today the Any words of wisdom you would impart Lunch at Catalina’s of mixed seafood/ complications that have arisen now through to food and beverage or hospitality Tooth Fish with a selection of rose’s from COVID-19. industry aspirants? Provence. Dinner at Bert’s of Anchovies & It’s a great industry that you can be fried bread/swordfish with a Leeuwin Estate I’m old enough to remember International passionate about and you can stand out Chardonnay, Rockford Basket Press or Roast at its peak, then Nescafe, then from the crowd and be different. Don’t Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon. Moccona. How did the current obsession be scared to branch out and take on with quality coffee eventuate? the big guys - here and overseas. Don’t How many cups of coffee do you have People started to want to have the same compromise on quality or honesty (guard a day? quality of coffee they were having in coffee both with your life). Six! shops at home and so we started branding all our cafes heavily and had our campaign Coffee, espresso machines, mineral “bring home the coffee they serve in cafes”. water, tea, iced tea, Italian sodas, fruit Vittoria were very much the pioneers nectars, cheese, confectionary, hazelnut of bringing Italian style real coffee to spread, oil, vinegar, pasta, drinking Australians. chocolate, gelato…and of course wine… is there something you forgot? How has the coffee machine/pod I think the range will always continue to changed the market? grow and develop. The capsule market has made it easier for people to drink roast and ground coffee at Most admired wine/variety/winery/wine home and the size of the capsule market district? vs the bean and ground market there is Hill of Grace and the Barossa Valley. today only a $2-million difference. The capsule market has grown at 33% over the last 12 months and a staggering nearly 60% in a quarter. October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 43
W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000 WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600 2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560 2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250 1970 $400 Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330 1971 $720 1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280 1972 $400 1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450 1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480 1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350 1975 $460 1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300 1990 $130 1976 $850 1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360 1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320 1978 $380 1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110 1997 $300 1993 $100 1980 $380 1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400 1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380 1995 $130 1983 $480 1998 $85 1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390 1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110 2006 $180 1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120 2007 Not Released 1998 $130 1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130 2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130 1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120 2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140 2002 $120 1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190 1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140 2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250 2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180 2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95 2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160 2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100 2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95 2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120 2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190 2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85 Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90 1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320 1995 $100 2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280 2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250 2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110 2000 $65 2001 $110 2003 $110 2005 $110 2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120 2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110 2006 $120 1990 $250 2008 $85 1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210 2009 $85 1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220 2010 $100 1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95 2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85 2009 $95 2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100 Chardonnay 2002 $220 1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230 1992 $600 1998 $140 ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220 1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140 Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210 1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85 1990 $90 1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000 1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85 1994 $85 1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200 2003 $500 1965 $600 2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550 1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250 2004 $75 1997 $200 2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75 2010 $70 44 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700 E. Guigal La Turque Follow us and keep up to 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage date with all our latest wine 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 info, tastings and events 1993 $90 1991 $850 on facebook, twitter and 1994 $120 1992 $270 1995 $110 1993 $240 instagram. 1996 $160 Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1997 $85 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1998 $160 1996 $260 1999 $100 1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 2001 $100 1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 2002 $150 1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500 2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650 2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550 1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200 1996 $800 de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500 1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800 1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800 1999 $750 1991 $1,900 1997 $380 1882 $1,800 2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200 2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1893 $1,200 2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1899 $1,200 2003 $600 1995 $3,500 2001 $250 1901 $700 2004 $850 1996 $3,100 2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950 1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600 1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500 1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500 Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200 2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140 1996 $1,400 2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650 2008 $2,400 1994 $130 1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80 2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75 2002 $600 1997 $350 2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200 WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280 Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500 2004 $280 1980 $180 Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280 1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700 2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000 1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190 1998 $4,800 2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700 2001 $4,500 2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320 2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200 1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370 1999 $550 Winestate Magazine 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 @WinestateEd 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 45
travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN CLARE VALLEY REDISCOVER CLARE All the Koerner wines are produced NEW TEMPTATION from fruit grown within a 500m radius of GRAPEVINES have been grown in the the Watervale area in the Clare Valley, MARNIE Roberts is the winemaker behind Clare Valley since explorer John Horrocks with the majority coming from the family the Matriarch and Rogue label, one of the planted grenache at Penwortham in vineyard Gullyview. This vineyard has Clare’s more recent arrivals. The cellar 1840. The Jesuit Brothers founded been owned and managed by the door is also a wine bar where visitors can Sevenhill Cellars to make sacramental brothers’ parents, Christine and Anthony have a tasting and enjoy a glass or bottle wine in 1851 and there are now dozens of Koerner, for over 40 years. of wine with a cheese platter. small producers alongside bigger names The pair say their winemaking philosophy Roberts specialises in alternative varieties, like Taylors and Jim Barry. is simple: “to make wines that reflect their saying: “I want people to be tempted and While famous for 1056 hectares of place in the world, wines that are made able to try something they usually wouldn’t, outstanding riesling, the region actually in the vineyard”. Koerner Wines recently to go outside of their comfort zone and has significantly more shiraz (1886 earned a write up in The New York Times. taste something that is available to them ha) and cabernet sauvignon (1135 ha) “We believe the date of picking is the at a realistic price point.” vineyards. Together these three varietals most crucial part of the process,” they Tastings are by appointment only with comprise almost 80% of Clare Valley’s say. “Once the grapes make their way to a 50-minute session including five wine production. the winery, they are carefully nurtured with wines and a tasting plate. The tasting The Clare Valley is a series of valleys each batch treated individually. experiences are available on Saturdays and historic villages, all easily explored “An understanding of terroir and the and Sundays from noon to 4pm, in one- among rolling vineyards and undulating individual varieties enables us to produce hour increments. Book on 0419 901 892. hills that rise high above the fertile unique wines using nothing but the grapes There is a tasting fee of $10 per person. agricultural plains. It is a destination with and a small amount of sulphur. We are Visit matriarchandrogue.com.au. an abundance of walking and bike trails currently implementing organic practices where every bend reveals a new discovery within our vineyards.” ROMANTIC ESCAPE in the hometown of local acclaimed In the Clare, they run private tastings at the artisan food and wine producers. Koerner family Gullyview vineyard. Tastings THERE are dozens of accommodation are $20 per head, which is redeemable on options in the Clare. Adagio in Auburn is A BROTHERLY AFFAIR the purchase of six bottles or more (per ideal for couples; a self-contained one- person). There are also pop up tastings at bedroom B&B. BROTHERS Damon and Jono Koerner the Mintaro Magpie in summer and Stump Think garden views, Mintaro slate floors, grew up in the Clare Valley but have since Hotel (open every weekend), as well as by king bed, quality furnishings and cooked spent time working and studying around appointment at the Lenswood winery. See breakfast provisions. The circa 1860s Australia and overseas. koernerwine.com.au. building has recently been restored 46 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
travelbriefs are also provided with a fruit platter and Head chef Rupesh Agrawal says complimentary bottle of wine. The local auburn cafés are only 200 metres away. his philosophy comprises three key See www.adagioauburn.com ‘ingredients’ – authenticity, character INDIA RIGHT AT HOME IN CLARE and experience. He uses fresh produce RURAL Australia may be a strange spot gathered locally. to find an outstanding Indian restaurant but Indii of Clare has become a firm To accompany the authentic Indian favourite with locals and visitors over the past seven years. food, there is a selection of local and international wines, as well as cocktails mixed with subtle Indian spices. See indiiofclare.com.au. to provide a restful getaway. Features Top: Exterior and veranda at Adagio B&B. include reverse-cycle air conditioning, Middle Left: Interior bedroom at Adagio B&B. combustion fire, free wifi, Foxtel and full Bottom left: Interior of Indii restaurant. kitchen facilities. Guests can relax in a sunroom or the Opposite page top: Scenic Clare Valley vineyard. shady garden, while breakfast provisions include bacon, local free-range eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, cereal, toast, jam, honey and milk. A Nespresso Pod coffee machine and a selection of teas are also provided, while two-night stays October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 47
CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS 108 TASTED 89 AWARDED CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS A very high strike rate here which just shows the quality and Artwine Madame consistency of the region. Whilst Clare is known as the yardstick V Single Vineyard for Australian rieslings don’t overlook some other great wines Clare Valley Viognier from the greatly underrated cabernet class. Mid-weight shiraz is 2019 HHH also a feature where winemakers who have measured oak have “A great example from a made some crackers. tough year.” Leaner style with good spiciness and honey notes. $25 SPARKLING Sit Stay Society Paulett Wines Violet’s Clare Valley Watervale Clare 1 TASTED Grüner Veltliner Valley Semillon 1 AWARDED 2020 (375ml) HHHH 2019 HHH Surprisingly floral Citrusy nose and One example of a nose with pungent savoury elements to nice sparkling riesling complexity and a the slightly developed showing a touch of gorgeous bright clean palate. Good lemon sweetness. lemon palate. “A very finish. $25 pretty wine.” $10 Rhynie Road Clare Reillys Watervale Artwine Prego Valley Chardonnay Knappstein Ackland Clare Valley Cuvée Single Vineyard 2018 HHH Vineyard Watervale Riesling 2020 HHH Clare Valley Pinot Toasty buttery bouquet Riesling A vibrant and “playful” Grigio 2020 HHH1/2 and fresh nutty nectarine 2020 HHHHH sparkling with good Shy floral and citrus flavours. “Yummo – a Still quite restrained with concentration of fragrances with mouth lovely drink!” $17 good floral lift to the floral fruit and citrus filling pear and honey citrus nose. Lean and elements. $30 flavours. Very true to the RIESLING lively in the mouth with style. $25 great length of spicy OTHER Ulster Park Wines 27 TASTED brown lime-like flavours WHITES ‘1867’ Clare Valley 24 AWARDED and nice line of acid. $30 Pinot Gris 9 TASTED Artwine Wicked 2020 HHH As to be expected 7 AWARDED Stepmother Single Restrained tropical nose – an excellent class. Vineyard Clare with an elegant nicely “An absolute pleasure Generally, a solid group Valley Fiano textured tropical fruit to judge,” enthused of well-made wines from 2020 HHHH1/2 palate. $25 one judge. “Really a range of varietals. “It Vibrant green hues with high quality across shows there is more to citrus blossom aromas the different regions Clare than just riesling,” and hints of limes. Great of Watervale, Polish noted one judge. depth of varietal flavours Hill and Stanley Flat with slight sweetness and various vintages nicely balanced by the showing the high acid. $35 standard this variety achieves in Clare.” JUDGES Tom Darmody Emma Walker Will Shields Assistant winemaker at Winemaker for Claymore Winemaker for Sevenhill Taylors Wines. Has a Wines. Has judged in Wines. 25 years as a Bachelor of Viticulture & the New England wine winemaker, with stints at Oenology from the University show and Australian Vasse Felix and Clairault of Adelaide. Previously Small Winemakers show. in Margaret River and a cellar door assistant at Completed AWAC in 2014. The Wine Portfolio in Elderton Wines and Wolf Has a Bachelor of Applied New Zealand. Then joined Blass. Previously a product Science/Viticulture from Kirrihill in Clare from 2016 expert at Dan Murphys. CSU. Also completed until 2019. Committee member of Clare WSET level 2 and 3 in Valley wine show. 2014. 48 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
regional tasting Knappstein St Amand Clare Jaeschkes Hill River Matriarch & Rogue Jaeschkes Hill River Enterprise Vineyard Valley Riesling Clare Estate Polish Dot Single Vineyard Clare Estate Polish Clare Riesling 2020 HHHH1/2 Hill River Valley Clare Valley Riesling Hill River Valley 2020 HHHHH An elegant shy and Riesling 2019 HHHH 2020 HHH Riesling 2016 HHH A succulent juicy style “serious” riesling still Lovely aromas of Aromas of lemon Floral bouquet with with a nose of lime coming together with apple blossom and blossom with a slate- slight kero-like aged jubes and fruit tingles! minerally lime aromas honeysuckle and a like backbone and a notes that follow Great texture and length and a good, slightly “serious” palate with good solid brown lime through to the lively to the palate with dry, citrus driven palate firm acidity and juicy palate. $25 palate. $18 slightly savoury citrus and balancing acidity. lime flavours. $18 Sevenhill Inigo Clare driven flavours. Has $19.99 Kirrihill E.B.’s The Valley Riesling Reillys Watervale years ahead of it. $30 Mr Riggs Watervale Settler Clare Valley 2020 HHH Clare Valley Riesling Reillys Watervale Clare Riesling Riesling 2019 HHHH Slaty mineral style with 2016 HHH Clare Valley Riesling 2020 HHHH1/2 A lift of honey and limes a nice line of lemon Starting to develop lovely 2019 HHHHH Pale green wine with on the nose with solid varietal fruit characters toasty characters that A toasty nose with delicate lime blossom lemon flavours, a smoky and good acidity. $25 blend nicely with the honeyed marmalade fragrances and lovely element and great Rhynie Road slaty lemon fruit. $40 notes and a “perfect” minerality to the citrus bracing acidity. $35 Clare Valley citrus/lemon palate that palate with some racy Jaeschkes Hill River Riesling 2019 HHH ROSÉ has elegance, length and acidity. Needs time to Clare Estate Polish Toasty honeyed aromas persistence. “Absolutely settle. $25 Hill River Valley and good development 4 TASTED lovely!” declared one Velvet & Willow Riesling 2017 HHHH evolving on the palate. 3 AWARDED judge. $25 Clare Valley Riesling A very elegant wine $17 2020 HHHH1/2 with hints of lychees Taylors Estate A solid, better than Nice mix of Kaffir lime and peaches on the Clare Valley average, trio of drinkable and melon-like aromas nose and nice balance of Riesling 2019 HHH wines. Setting a good with slightly estery honeyed age and citrus Sweet brown lime nose standard! sweet varietal fruit flavours. $18 and a complex varietal flavours and superb Reillys Watervale palate with some Claymore Wines minerality. A fine boned Clare Valley Riesling searing acidity. $20 Whole Lotta Love style. $25 2010 HHHH Knappstein Clare Clare Valley Rosé Freya and Jules A golden wine with Valley Riesling 2020 HHH1/2 Watervale Clare lovely fragrant aged 2019 HHH Very pretty, lifted cherry Valley Riesling toasty honeyed aromas Bright and refreshing and rhubarb-like bouquet 2020 HHHH and a rich, slightly with a shy lime bouquet and lovely creaminess A great wine that is, buttery, palate with great and straightforward to the bright red fruit “Knocking on the door acid line. $40 zippy acid palate. $22 palate. $N/A for gold,” according to Kirrihill Regional GCV Premium Clare one judge. Powerful Selection Clare Valley Riesling Artwine Temptress citrus length and Valley Riesling 2019 HHH Single Vineyard concentration. $8.99 2019 HHH1/2 An elegant wine with Clare Valley Rosé A nose of lime cordial honeyed lime aromas 2020 HHH1/2 and melons with quite and lovely mineral edge Aromas of roses, a big firm fruit palate to the “near perfect” strawberries and musk starting to show some palate. $38 with confectionery honeyed age. $19 Jaeschkes Hill River sweet and spicy flavours Reillys Barking Mad Clare Estate Polish and good acidity. $25 Watervale Clare Hill River Valley Valley Riesling Riesling 2018 HHH Paulett Wines Clare 2019 HHH1/2 Great colour, toasted Valley Sangiovese Tropical fruit aromas honey nose and Rosé 2020 HHH1/2 with slaty minerally wonderful balanced A strawberry and notes and fruit length and poise to the cream nose and lively sweetness on the nicely palate. $18 palate with good balanced palate. $20 Reillys Watervale balance between fruit The Crafty Punter Clare Valley Riesling sweetness and acid. $25 Clare Valley Riesling 2018 HHH 2020 HHH Floral fragrances with Very floral fragrances a slaty note and lovely with lime notes and tight minerally lime concentrated fruit flavours. $30 sweetness on the palate. $18 October 2020 W I N E S TAT E 49
CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS OTHER REDS Artwine Pack Leader GRENACHE & Calcannia Clare Taylors Estate Clare & BLENDS Single Vineyard BLENDS Valley Grenache Valley Merlot Clare Valley Shiraz Mourvedre 2019 HHHHH 14 TASTED Cabernet Franc 7 TASTED 2018 HHH1/2 A beautifully made 11 AWARDED 2018 HHHH 7 AWARDED Uncomplicated style wine with lovely spicy Quite European in style with spicy floral aromas, brambly varietal fruit Excellent class! Mixed with a touch of brambly “Some great old long lingering fruit layered with plush varietals exhibiting good green on the nose and material is available in flavours, lots of acid and tannins. A clean, simple quality fruit giving nice delicate fruit flavours the region,” said one good tannins. $28 and very “honest” varietal characters. and plenty of acid. $38 judge. “Clare is not example of this varietal. “There is a definite Reillys Dry Land recognised for this Reillys Old Bush $20 potential for these Clare Valley Mataro variety as is Bordeaux or Vine Clare Valley varieties in this region 2017 HHHH even McLaren Vale but Grenache Stone Bridge with greater knowledge An inky red wine the results are here! 2016 HHH1/2 Wines Clare Valley of the winemaking and dominated by oak but Aged aromas with slight Cabernet Malbec suitable site involved,” with some lovely rich Velvet & Willow Balsamic characters and 2017 HHHH1/2 commented one judge. spicy fruit pushing Clare Valley a rich and brooding aged A very pretty “fine through and tannins in Grenache palate. “Very serious boned” wine with Matriarch & balance. $32 2019 HHHHH wine.” $32 lovely violet and Rogue Mary Single Taylor Made Clare A dense rich tannic wine plum fragrances and Vineyard Clare Valley Malbec with many years of life in Paulett Wines cassis notes. Soft and Valley Tempranillo 2018 HHH1/2 it. Smells of cherries and Brielle Clare Valley flavoursome in the 2018 HHHHH An attractive plums with succulent Grenache 2019 HHH mouth with silky smooth Deep rose red wine uncomplicated style; cherry flavours on the Lifted confectionery tannins. $23 with lovely aromas lovely expression bright balanced vibrant fruit nose with leafy of black cherries and of cherries, plums palate. $25 notes and more of the Claymore Wines licorice and very well- and spices with soft same on the austere London Calling balanced palate layered tannins. $25 palate. $42 Clare Valley with sweet fruit and Cabernet Malbec spices and a soft tannin Antiquarian Clare Reillys Barking 2018 HHH1/2 backbone. $28 Valley Pinot Noir Mad Clare Valley Cassis bouquet with Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 Grenache Shiraz a violet lift and lovely Hutt River Clare A great wine with 2018 HHH perfumed fruit flavours Valley Malbec peppery plum aromas Lovely lively blend - lots with green notes and 2018 HHHH1/2 and velvety soft in the of sweet herbal plum linear tannins. $N/A Dense chocolaty aromas mouth with oak derived fruit, chocolate nuances layered with plums and flavours. $59 and soft tannins. $20 Paulett Wines Polish violets. Great palate Hill River Clare weight and texture and Matriarch & Rogue Stone Bridge Valley Cabernet is brimming over with Jean Single Vineyard Wines Clare Valley Merlot 2018 HHH varietal fruit flavours. Clare Valley Malbec Grenache Mataro Chocolaty nose with rich Cellaring will reward! 2017 HHH1/2 2016 HHH fruit sweetness on the $23.99 A very pretty, fresh A pot pouri of a nose balanced palate. Just and elegant wine with and velvety tannins needs more time. $30 Matriarch & Rogue delicate floral fruit gracefully carrying the Pat Single Vineyard characters and great chocolaty fruit. $26 Reillys RCV Clare Valley tannin balance. $28 ‘Stoneflower’ Sangiovese MERLOT & Clare Valley Merlot 2018 HHHH Artwine Leave Artwine Grumpy CABERNET Cabernet Sauvignon Simple strawberry nose Your Hat On Old Man Single AND BLENDS 2016 HHH with slight grassiness Single Vineyard Vineyard Clare A classy deep crimson and sour cherry flavours Clare Valley Valley Grenache 6 TASTED wine – very Bordeaux- with dense tannins. Montepulciano 2018 HHHH1/2 5 AWARDED like with perfect Great example of the 2019 HHH Delicate stalky aromas ripeness. $70 variety. $25 A lovely aromatic with hints of cherries A solid line-up with compote of spicy and rose petals and blends combining well. CABERNET Artwine The Grace blackberries laced with great depth and “Cabernet is a greatly SAUVIGNON Single Vineyard fine chalky tannins. $38 complexity of bright underrated variety in this Clare Valley Reillys Dry Land fruit flavours with nicely region and works well 13 TASTED Graciano Clare Valley balancing tannins. $40 as the main component 13 AWARDED 2018 HHHH Tempranillo of a red blend,” said Well made wine with 2018 HHH one judge. “These Another excellent group lifted varietal expression “A solid, down to earth, are pleasingly lacking of wines again reflecting of blueberries, wine,” commented one in green characters the quality of cabernet blackberries, pepper and judge. It is all plums, you often find in other from this region. “2018 spice. Soft tannins. $32 spices and violets. $29 regions.” in particular was a great vintage in Clare for this variety.” 50 W I N E S TAT E October 2020
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