Winestate Magazine Annual 2015

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 11,000 tasted annuallyANNUAL 2015 WINESTATE VOL 38 ISSUE 1 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2014 IN REVIEW Annual Edition 2015 Virnetpao2g0er1t4print post approved pp565001/00129 Annual 2015 Vol 38 Issue 1 $14 AUS (inc GST) NZ $15 SGD $19 US $17.99 GBP £11.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB120 HKD $150 CHF 20.00 ZAR 250 The pick of the crop from over 11,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2014





A Sample ofSOUTH AFRICA at Hyatt Regency Perth

Discover the flavours of South Africa The promotion, running fromthis January with traditional dishes at 12 – 25 January, will coincide withHyatt Regency Perth’s award winning Wines of South Africa, a wine tastingrestaurant, Cafe. event by Winestate Magazine which willExecutive Sous Chef Shaneil Dinna also on at the hotel on 16 January.from Hyatt Regency Johannesburg will Wines to sample will cover everythingjoin the team of chefs at Hyatt Regency from chenin blancs with soft vanillaPerth to showcase some of the unique notes and zesty chardonnays to somecooking methods and serve up a feast full bodied reds from South Africa’sof flavoursome dishes such as smoked highly regarded Stellenbosch region.springbok with neertije compote, A variety of wines from South AfricaDurban style curries, a selection of will also be available at Cafe duringboerewors and an array of biltong. the promotional period, giving guestsIn addition to this, guests can also the opportunity to enjoy them with theenjoy different stews from the potiie traditional flavours of South African(a traditional cast iron pot used over an cuisine.open flame) and smoor vis – smoked fish For more information or to make aserved with potato, beans and spices. reservation at Cafe call 08 9225 1204.There’ll be plenty of vegetarian options For information about the Wines ofas well, with pumpkin fritters, sweet South Africa wine tasting event emailpotatos with roasted peanuts and [email protected] curries.Phone: 08 9225 1234 - Email: [email protected] - www.perth.regency.hyatt.com - facebook.com/perth.regency.hyatt



No.267 annual 2015Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Here, you’ll alwaysManaging Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] come first.NZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] DW Fox Tucker is a new full-service commercial law firm, established by theSub-editor Michael Bates former partners of the respected South Australian teams of Donaldson WalshAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] and Fox Tucker. Our experienced and highly knowledgableGraphic Designer Jasmine Holmes E-mail: [email protected] team has advised many of the leading names in Australian wine, and a greatMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] many other industries, across all areas of business.Tasting Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] But if there’s one thing we specialise in, it’s putting clients’ needs first. SoPrinting DAI Rubicon whatever your business or commercial objectives, don’t hesitate to contact us.Winestate Web Site [email protected] At DW Fox Tucker, you’ll matter most.WINESTATE New Zealand Administration L14, 100 King William Street Adelaide SA 5000Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] p: +61 8 8124 1811Contributors e: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins dwfoxtucker.com.auVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich COMMERCIAL | DISPUTES | INSOLVENCY | TAXQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel IP | WORKPLACE | PROPERTY | INSURANCENew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEurope André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALESInternational and AustraliaPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2014 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsannual 2015r eg u la r s F E A T u r es THE YEAR IN THE R E A R - V I E W M I RROR 12 Briefs 2014 VINTAGE REPORT 18 European Report with Sally Easton 26 Making the most of the ‘crazy’ factor 122 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Making the most of seasonal extremes 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King The nation’s wine industry again faced The ability to cope with weather challenges 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel a kaleidoscope of weather conditions, shaped much of the 2014 vintage, writes Karyn 48 Grapevine causing frustration for some and Foster. Generally a cold, and in some regions 54 Wine Investment & Collecting generating great expectations for others, wet 2013 winter replenished parched sub-soils, 66 What’s it Worth? writes Charles Gent. Grape growers dealt followed by frosts, then scorching heat, bush 89 Subscription Form with early season heat followed by frosts fires and finally regional rains at harvest set the 194 Aftertaste in the south, heavy rain in the north and tone for a “mixed results” season. east decimated some crops, while out westP l u s - the b est what was a bad start to vintage seemed to 134 VICTORIA:o f the b est rectify itself with hope on the horizon. Dreams of a perfect vintage shattered by ‘nightmare’ conditionsWe revisit the most outstanding wines - rated 30 Truth behind the myth Disaster struck early in the season, reportsfour stars and above - that we tasted in 2014. Greece might have a long history of wine Jeni Port, when a sudden blast of wet, cold making, but until recently quality was suspect, and windy conditions, including frost in some 66 Best of Styles writes Dan Traucki. Things have changed places, during the flowering period, hammered 104 Best of New Releases dramatically in the last few years as a premium- vines. Many growers, especially in southern 116 The 2014 Best of Top 40 Best Buys class wine industry has emerged, based on a regions, reported fruit losses of up to 60 per 125 Best of South Australia blend of old and new – ancient native grapes cent. But while losses were up, many growers 138 Best of Victoria and modern winemaking techniques. suggested the remaining fruit quality was high 144 Best of New South Wales pointing the way to quality reds and whites. 152 Best of Western Australia 40 Understanding the China syndrome 156 Best of Queensland Asia, led by China, is the new frontier of the 142 NEW SOUTH WALES: 158 Best of Tasmania wine world, reports Denis Gastin. The culture A career-defining vintage 164 Best of New Zealand of wine in the region continues to expand at It was all smiles in the Hunter, writes Rick Allen. 174 Michael Cooper’s Best of 2014 Releases such a rapid rate that global industry leaders Right across the region the reports were the are beginning to take stakes in Asia. And same - outstanding red and white fruit. Some China can take credit for much of this growth are suggesting that 2014 is the best since the - now ranked the world’s leading consumer fabulous 1965 vintage. It was a stress-free of red wine, the fifth-largest wine consuming vintage with a predictable, even ripening country by volume and the eighth-largest wine period. One grower predicted the reds will drink producing country. superbly on release, but will age gracefully, too. 62 Riesling revolution gathers pace 150 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: Consumers continue to embrace riesling Hardest hit but still walking tall and Australian producers continue along Sandalford winemaker Hope MetcalfWinestate Magazine the path of improving quality, reports epitomises the 2014 vintage in the MargaretIssue Number 267 Dan Traucki, following the 15th Canberra River region, writes Mike Zekulich. HerAnnual 2015 International Riesling Challenge. The vineyard was the hardest hit when a major latest challenge attracted 494 entries storm rolled through the region destroyingCover photograph from nine countries, making it the most up to 50 per cent of the chardonnay grapes© klenova prestigious event of its kind in the southern she was relying on. The reds fared better, hemisphere, and probably anywhere escaping much of the damage, and there are outside Germany, the home of riesling. predictions that the older cabernets and shiraz will deliver quality wines. 162 NEW ZEALAND: 34 Wine oAfwtahredys e2a0r14 Optimism blossoms as demand surges Skyrocketing international demand and a bumper crop have combined to inflate SPECIAL WOYA FEATURE grower optimism, writes Michael Cooper. The It’s celebration time as the stars of our 2014 vintage produced an extra 84 million industry during 2014 - the wines and the bottles of wine, much of it to be taken up by personalities - step out on the ‘red carpet’. a soaring export market. In the UK, NZ is The winners of Winestate’s annual Wine of now the second largest supplier of premium The Year Awards are on show and you can wine just behind France. The industry is now view the presentation ceremony in our five- generating a greater income for the nation than fish, kiwifruit and even butter. page pictorial special.

Fine wine’s favourite line.Australia’s top brands have a nose for smoothness and consistency. And they agree – the carrierof choice is Hamburg Süd. With our worldwide destinations, fixed-day weekly services, schedulereliability, logistics expertise and first class cargo care, our service is exemplary. Hamburg Süd.In a word, quality.No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com

BRA AI in the South Africa comes to the Barossa Experience some of the finest South African wines in South Australia’s beautiful Barossa Valley. 12pm-4pm Sunday 82M0a1rc5h $75 per ticketPhone: (61 8) 8562 2722 | Email: [email protected] | Web: www.appellation.com.au NO FREE TICKETS

editorialThe Annual issue is the summary of a year’s long tasting of many of thebest wines from Australia and New Zealand. This year more than 11,000 in all. Itis impossible to cram all our recommended wines into one issue, and certainly formany of our three-star wines (bronze-medal standard) we would happily drink themover a pleasant lunch time or dinner gathering. In this issue we have narrowed downthe choices by only presenting those that achieved four stars (silver standard) orabove (gold standard). Effectively Winestate is a series of wine shows in every issue,with the same system of three judges blind tasting used by national wine shows,using predominantly peer winemakers as judges. It is a laborious way to do thingsbut you can rest assured that the results are worth it. Wine tasting is an art, not ascience, and panel judging - while not perfect in this imperfect field - does offer agood consensus result. By us then delivering reviews on each recommended wineyou can then decide if the wine involved is to your choice. A quick snapshot of the vintages tasted by our panels this year shows that 2012may be the vintage of this century, particularly for reds. Performing well also werewines from 2010 and a surprise were the wines from 2013, which performed betterthan many expected. Thankfully (with some notable exceptions) the difficult 2011vintage is becoming a distant memory. At the time of writing this editorial (early December) we are seeing a “back to thefuture scenario” in the wine industry. While Treasury Wine Estates closed down its Ryecroft McLaren Vale winery, iconic Barossawinery, Peter Lehmann wines, was sold to Casella wines, maker of the highly successful international Yellowtail brand. Not tobe outdone and perhaps with a view to shoring up a Barossa position, Accolade, makers of Hardys Wines, made a play forGrant Burge wines. Previously Delegats, the New Zealand maker of Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Australia’s biggest sellingwhite wine, took over Barossa Valley Estate wines with a view to rapidly expanding its red wine sales division. Amazingly, inthese times of apparent glut, chairman Alan Hoey said: “we can’t get enough good Barossa shiraz fruit”. While this was goingon the Riverland grape growers called in the big companies to a general meeting to find out what was going on in the faceof a reported 25 per cent drop in grape purchases by the big boys. They would have done better to arrange a meeting withthe major supermarket chains Coles and Woolworths. This all reeks of days gone by where the inland growers in the absence of distribution opportunities formed the Berri,Renmano, Waikerie and Loxton co-ops to marshal their resources and to build economies of scale. I can see a new co-opcoming! Then in other regions wineries are being amalgamated and small ones let go. It was always thus! At the end of a massive 12 months our thanks must go to the great wine judges who have put their reputations on the linewhile judging the many wines put before them. Similarly, the wineries supplying those same wines are brave indeed and wehope that we have done justice to their brands. Of course we always cherish our sponsors and advertisers who support themagazine and finally our readers; they are the reason we get up in the morning, to give pleasure, education and enjoymentfrom one glass to the next. Have a great 2015, one and all. Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherAnnual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsCellar Door Wine Festival TWICE THE PLEASURETHE multi-award winning annual Cellar Door Wine Festival – Adelaide is back ONCE a year the Penfolds team invites influencers from around Australia andin 2015. The three-day Festival - February 20-22 - will be held under one roof New Zealand to sample its new-release premium wines, including the iconicin the heart of the city on the banks of the River Torrens! Grange. This year - for one year only - it happened twice. There were twoShowcasing over 170-plus food and wine producers, from internationally Grange releases in 2014 - the 2009 early in the year and the much-vauntedrenowned brands alongside niche boutique stars, the Festival provides the 2010 which hit the stores on October 16. The Grange is the undoubted starultimate opportunity for thousands of visitors to learn about South Australia’s of the new Penfolds Collection, which is the umbrella name for the Bin Series,unparalleled wine regions and produce offering. previously released each March, and the Luxury Collection, which used to beMeet the winemakers, taste some of South Australia’s finest wines and produce, released each May. The date change, says Penfolds chief winemaker Peterand discover new hidden gems to take home with you! Gago, frees up winemakers during what was a clash between vintage and theThe Festival offers a range of immersive food and wine experiences, with previous release dates. It means the wines are more readily available to beendless opportunities to taste the very best of South Australia. With interactive shipped in cooler weather and will be available to consumers in the run-up totastings and wine education to Long Table feasts and Master Classes brought key festive periods, including Christmas, and winemakers will not be divertedto you by South Australia’s top wine and food makers – take your time to wander from making wine to host launches around the world. “It is a better calendarthrough 15 wine regions discovering new favourites or old classics from your from both a wine making point of view and for commercial reasons, so we arepremium Plumm wine glass. delighted,” Gago says. He describes the new Grange, with his customaryBe taken on a sensory tour uncovering the treasures of South Australia by hyperbole, as “a kaleidoscopic sensorial unfolding” from a year “in whichtaking a Master Class hosted by renowned food and wine identities, including absolutely nothing went wrong”.Jamie Oliver’s pal and wine expert, Matt Skinner! These interactive small groupclasses are both fun and educational, with seriously delicious demonstrations LOOKING GOODfor participants to enjoy. There are six different classes on offer in 2015 to suityour palate. ONE of Australia’s most popular wine ranges, the McGuigan Bin series, hasA ‘Long Table series’ will feature at the 2015 Festival and includes a delicious been given a makeover with the launch of seven new-look labels that playLong Table Brunch and Lunch hosted by local food and wine identities. These homage to classic Australian wine styles. The range, which has an RRP oflimited ticket activities offer the very best seats at the Festival to taste the best in $12.99, features a line-up including verdelho, sauvignon blanc, chardonnaySouth Australian produce and paired wines. Jam-packed with features that will and semillon, as well as shiraz, merlot and cabernet sauvignon using fruitplease everyone’s taste buds, don’t miss this award-winning three-day event! sourced from premium vineyard sites in the Hunter Valley, broader New South Wales and South Australia. “The Bin series wines have always been fantastic,” said chief winemaker Neil McGuigan. “They’re varietally intense, flavoursome and always over-deliver on the price point, but our research showed it was time for a packaging evolution. “This, coupled with the fact the $8 to $15 wine price segment is the largest by volume in Australia, meant we really needed to ramp up our look in order to capitalise on an existing and captive audience. “The new-look packaging is eye-catching, vibrant and fresh, with real presence and reflects where the wine should be on-shelf.”12 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

briefsDREDGE DROPS A BOMBSHELL GRIMM ALL SMILESTHE Tasmanian wine making community was stunned to hear winemaker/ VETERAN hotelier Wolfgang Grimm is one of themanager Peter Dredge had resigned from Bay of Fires winery after five smartest cookies in the hospitality industry - andsuccessful years, during which he helped the brand establish a major well known to Hunter Valley locals, where he hasnational profile. had a vineyard, Grimms Domain, for severalBut while Dredge will be departing Bay of Fires, he will not be lost entirely to years. While he still loves his wine, Grimm isTasmania or the label. He will be moving to Hobart to accompany partner, the driving force behind the new Alisea HotelElla, who has been offered a job opportunity down south, but will also continue in Aonang, a resort town in Krabi, Thailand. Heworking for Accolade Wines on a retainer, assisting in grower liaison and describes the Art Deco-style building with Medother roles for the company. Penny Jones, who has been responsible for the and Moroccan touches as an “urban resort”.Eddystone Point label, will take over as chief winemaker. Tasmanian born and Grimm is a legendary figure in the hotel industry.bred, Jones joined the team from Petaluma in the Adelaide Hills. The popular He was for many years the general managerDredge, who said he has been humbled by all the offers of support since he of the InterContinental Hotel in Sydney, latermade his decision, said he has already been offered some consultancy roles oversaw the Pier One Parkroyal and wasin Tasmania and overseas that he is keen to explore. He is also interested in vice-president of InterContinental Hotels Asia-making some small parcels of his own wine in 2015 “if I can source fruit of the Pacific. For several years he ran his own vineyard and wine label, gaining applauseright quality”. “We are committed to Tasmania and I look forward to continuing for his unique semillon that was blended with a touch of Tumbarumba sauvignonto contribute to Bay of Fires,” Dredge said. “Penny’s fingerprint is already on blanc, while his wife, Bo Lorchaiwet, still owns and operates the Oishii restaurantthe ‘14 aromatic whites that will be released soon and I think I’ve left things in the Tempus Two complex. Grimm’s latest passion is the Alisea, his re-imaginedin good shape for her to make her mark.” version of the former Alis Hotel, a rundown property 200m back from the beach that he has completely re-imagined as a chic, adults-only property that he expects will appeal to couples both young and old. He describes the hotel as “cool, calm and connected” - and, yes, there is free wi-fi throughout, as well as access to the hotel’s own eco-friendly Anadamana Beach Club, a short complimentary shuttle ride away, with its own long tail boats for sunset cruises and a Muay Thai gym for those looking to keep fit. The newly refurbished Alisea is a boutique property with 26 superior rooms, eight loft suites (each with their own chill-out deck and open-air Japanese onsen-style baths) and one honeymoon suite. All rooms have airconditioning, new LED TVs with international channels (including the Australia Plus network), mini bars, environmentally friendly in-room toiletries and very comfortable beds. There is also a small but lovely infinity swimming pool that offers great sunset views. Alisea Boutique Hotel, Aonang Beach, Krabi, Thailand; phone +66 75 638 000. www.aliseaboutiquehotel.com. wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsPAVILLIONS IN THE PARK END OF AN ERATHERE are very few places to stay in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley, but anyone VETERAN winemaker Gerrylooking for a beautiful and completely private place to stay in nearby Sissingh died in October atLaunceston should check out the two new Hatherley Birrell Collection the age of 78. Born into apavilions. Tucked away overlooking a beautiful and stylish garden, the family of wine merchants inMagnolia and Muse pavilions are delightfully quiet and very well equipped. the Netherlands, he migratedThis pair of eco-friendly retreats has an Asian feel, having been inspired by to Australia in the 1950s, andChinese lanterns, and overlook a classically European jardin folie based worked under Ray Kidd at theon 17th-18th century landscape design. And for those guests looking for Lindeman’s Ben Ean winery incomplete privacy and discretion you do not have to see another person the Hunter Valley. He made somefor the duration of your stay. There is a keyless entry system so you are of the most famous semillongiven codes for entry to the car park, pavilion and the free wi-fi in advance. and shiraz wines for LindemansAnd rather than a communal breakfast, some local breakfast provisions Hunter Valley and in 1971are left in your fridge - hand-made fruit compote, yoghurt, muesli, bread was appointed the foundationfor fruit toast, along with juices, milk, tea and coffee. The pavilions winemaker at Rothbury Estate.are furnished with sublimely comfortable beds, a library of in-house He was also manager andmovies, a nicely provisioned mini bar and modern bathrooms with luxury winemaker for Hungerford Hillamenities. Both have kitchenettes, flat-screen TVs, private outdoor areas, Wines and consulted to several other wineries, and was also a respected winecontemporary artworks, hairdryers, free and secure off-street parking show judge. More recently he was a wine educator at Mosman Communityand complimentary port for a pre-sleep treat. Prices are around $340 per College, where he was also a board director.night per couple. The Hatherley Birrell Collection; phone 0458 947 727.www.hatherley.com.au. CARBON-FREE ZONE TAHBILK Estate in Victoria has become certified by carboNZero, the world’s first accredited program under the ISO 14065 standards for greenhouse gas certification. The winery achieved carbon neutral status in 2012 after fifth-generation family member Hayley Purbrick introduced the process in 2008. In being certified carboNZero, the winery has now achieved a net total of zero carbon emissions. “While attaining additional certification with the carboNZero program is a significant milestone to addressing the immediate concerns towards rebalancing our greenhouse gas emissions, the process has uncovered a need to develop a longer visioned sustainability strategy to be internally, naturally balanced without the need to purchase carbon offsets,” said Purbrick. “This is an exciting prospect which will see up to 120ha of trees being planted over the coming five years.” To celebrate Tahbilk’s carboNZero certification, the winery’s newest releases, including the 2014 marsanne, 2012 shiraz and the 2012 cabernet sauvignon, feature updated packaging with the carboNZero certification story on the back, along with a reworked, textured and watermarked label. “We’re delighted with the quality of these new vintage wines and think they look smart in their new livery,” said CEO and winemaker, Alister Purbrick. “The improvements to the front label give a sense of modern tradition and elegance, and the inclusion of our carbon story on the back label cements our commitment to leave a sustainable legacy for generations to come.”14 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

briefsPROMOTING THE COONAWARRA CHAPEL SERVICEADELAIDE businessman and hotelier Greg Toop plans to develop a wine THERE is an impressive addition to Burch Family Wines holdings in Westernvisitor information centre and tourist park in Coonawarra following his Australia - the Wine Chapel at the Howard Park cellar door in Margaret River.recent purchase of Penola’s Chardonnay Lodge motel complex. Toop hopes The Wine Chapel is a premium wine tasting space, the only facility of its kindthe development will promote the Coonawarra region as an area of wine in the region, and is expected to boost the high-end tourism market’s thirst forexcellence. “The centre will include a hands-on wine making interpretative personalised wine experiences. “This is a place to come to share and build winecentre, museum and vintage wine cellar, while we will have tastings and talks knowledge, and experience the Margaret River’s rich history,” said Burch Familyfeaturing local wines and winemakers, and a wine and food appreciation Wines’ co-owner Amy Burch. “It is designed for those who are looking for that littlecentre for visitors,” he said. The wine centre will be housed in the existing extra - who want to learn about wine, get behind the scenes and enjoy tastings incomplex until the redevelopment of adjoining land, depending on council an intimate, personable environment. Those who want to experience a truly sensoryapproval. Chardonnay Lodge accommodation has reopened after being indulgence incorporating the particular sounds and perfume of a working winery.”closed for 16 months, with a new kitchen and restaurant in place. The The Wine Chapel was designed by Perth-based Rodrigues Bodcoat Architectsdevelopment will initially include redeveloping the 39 suites, restaurant, and designed using feng shui principals. It is constructed from concrete, naturallyfunction room and conference centre, and building a new climate-controlled weathered Cyprus pine, recycled European oak and burnished black iron. Thewine storage and tasting area. A name change may also be on the cards. cellar and kitchen can seat up to 100 - extending on to a terrace. Burch Family wines include Howard Park, MadFish and Marchand & Burch labels.READ ALL ABOUT IT SERVICE RECOGNISEDDESTINATION New South Wales has launched a new book, New South FORMER Jacob’s Creek winemaker Philip Laffer AM has been named Life MemberWales Wine Country, aimed at showcasing the state’s wine regions. With of the Australian wine industry - the first recipient of the new national award.New South Wales the birthplace of the Australian wine industry, the new Administered by the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia, the Life Member of thepublication has been produced in conjunction with the NSW Wine Industry Australian Wine Industry Award recognises outstanding leadership and contributionAssociation and gives an overview of each of the 14 wine regions, from to the nation’s wine industry. Federation chief executive Paul Evans said Laffer hadthe Hunter Valley to Perricoota. The book will be distributed to industry spent his entire life promoting the nation’s wine industry, and it was richer for it. “Westakeholders and tourism operators both domestically and overseas. need champions like Philip and it is important for industry and the wider community to hold our pioneers in high regard because we can both learn from them andWORKING WITH THE ELEMENTS encourage the next and future generations to follow in their footsteps,” Evans said. Laffer has worked in trade, marketing, wine making, viticulture and management overTHE 2014 vintage was notable for all the wrong reasons for Canberra the years, including being one of the architects of Jacob’s Creek. From 2013, Lafferwinemaker Chris Carpenter at Lark Hill Winery. Early spring frosts in has continued in the industry as a wine making and viticulture consultant in Australia,2013 eliminated 50 per cent of the maker’s chardonnay and top-selling China and Argentina. He has served on the Winemakers’ Federation of Australiapinot noir. Unsettled weather conditions followed in November resulting Board, including as vice president, as well as president and vice president of thein poor fruit set and the insult continued with the vineyard experiencing South Australian Wine Industry Association. “Receiving this award is an honour, andboth its hottest and driest summer since 1976, followed by the coolest and I am humbled and proud to be recognised by my industry in this way,” Laffer said.wettest autumn on record. “Any one of these events would be somethingin itself,” he says, “but together they add up to an indicator of rapidclimate change.” While yields were low (“we picked only 20 per cent ofour normal chardonnay crop”), Carpenter was happy with the results. Heeven branched out into orange-hued wines with a marsanne roussanneviognier blend, fermenting part of the marsanne component on its skins.“The skin ferment portion delivers a savoury twist and umani characterthat reminds us of miso paste. This is our first foray into the style,” he said. Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsCIDER HOUSE RULES BOUNTY AT THE BAYTHE cider revolution has arrived in Australia’s largest city with the launch of SYDNEY’S revitalised Double Bay has a new wining and dining venuea Sydney first, The Cidery Bar & Kitchen. The Cidery is located in Rydges following the opening of Vine Double Bay, which is being run byWorld Square overlooking a busy shopping piazza, and features a number Sydney hospitality veteran Mikee Collins. “Double Bay already has aof menu items to complement the ciders available. The bar and eatery offers number of great bars, cafes and restaurants, and we are confident thata selection of ciders, particularly from Australian small producers, with the Vine Double Bay will be a welcome addition to the area,” said Collins.flagship cider - Sydney Cider - produced in-house by Sydney Brewery in “The venue will offer approachable food and wine along with great servicethe basement of the Rydges Hotel. and a relaxed atmosphere. “The space is modern, open and filled withMade from freshly crushed apples lovingly fermented with champagne natural light, making it perfect for afternoon drinks, dinner with friendsyeast, a light carbonation is added to give the apple flavour some or a long lunch.”“pizzazz”. The Cidery Bar team and chefs have developed a selection The former Zigolini’s site has a kitchen team led by chef Drew Bolton,of cocktails and food dishes to complement the craft bar concept, with whose experience includes Thomas Keller’s renowned French Laundrydishes such as traditional English pork and cider pot pie and chicken in California’s Napa Valley, Darley’s at Lillianfels in the Blue Mountainsnicoise salad pairing particularly well with cider. In addition to cider, and Peter Gilmore’s iconic Quay. The menu will include a variety of diningthe Cidery also features a range of craft beers produced by Sydney options from bar snacks through to substantial dishes that are designed toBrewery that celebrate the great city of Sydney with labels such as be shared. The wine list features about 50 wines, focusing on lesser-knownPaddo Ale, Glamarama and Surry Hills Pilsner. Premium wines are also but stand-out boutique wineries as well as organic and biodynamic styles.available. The Cidery Bar & Kitchen is at Rydges Sydney World Square, Vine Double Bay, 2 Short St, Double Bay, is open for dinner Tuesday-389 Pitt St, Sydney; phone (02) 8268 1888. Saturday and lunch Thursday-Sunday; phone (02) 9363 0010. CONSTRUCTION BEGINS LEVANTINE Hill Estate’s ambitious $5 million Yarra Valley winery and cellar door project has begun construction with a sod-turning ceremony on the site at Coldstream. The winemaker has also tied up the services of leading Melbourne restaurateur Teague Ezard, who will lend his name and food philosophy to the complex’s 100-seat restaurant appropriately called “ezard @ Levantine Hill”. The restaurant will employ 40 staff and hopes to attract more than 100,000 diners annually. Levantine Hill is the brainchild of millionaire Melbourne property developer Elias “Eli” Jreissati and his wife, Colleen. The first wines were released last year to high acclaim. Jreissati expects the same of his architectural plans for the LHE winery cellar door complex designed by Fender Katsalidis, the team behind Tasmania’s MONA. Safe to say the Australian wine industry has never seen anything like it. A large arched roof of steel rods will mimic vine trellising with living vines attached creating a vineyard setting within a well, vineyard setting. “It will look like a natural hill on the landscape but only when you start driving up to it will it reveal more,” says Jreissati, whose brief to architect Karl Fender was to create something that someone looking at from overseas would simply have to jump on a plane to see for themselves. Up close, the cellar door and restaurant will be “100 per cent glass”.16 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

briefsSPOILT FOR CHOICEAN Australian-based wine company with global ambitions is blitzing winedrinkers with a choice of more than 30 wines from five countries and 12wine regions. Handpicked Wines, despite the massive logistics involved,says it wants to increase the number of wines under its portfolio, cherrypicking wines and winemakers from notable wine regions worldwide. Italianpinot grigio and prosecco, Spanish tempranillo, Champagne and Bordeauxcabernet sauvignon have joined its portfolio, with signature Aussie and NewZealand wine styles like Central Otago pinot noir and Barossa shiraz. At theSeptember opening of its newly-acquired Capella Vineyard and winery onthe Mornington Peninsula, chief winemaker Gary Baldwin said he enjoyednot being limited to one region or one wine style. “Our philosophy is to buythe best wines possible from the best wine regions. We will scour the planet.”Handpicked Wines is owned by William Dong, a qualified Master of FinancialMathematics, who grew up in southern China and moved to Australia in 2002.A NATURAL FIT TASTY TIMESAUSTRALIAN wine shows continue to farrow new ground with more and more PLANNING and preparation is under way for the 2015 Taste Great Southernseeking different ways to engage with consumers. The McLaren Vale Wine festival - a vinous, gastronomic and performing arts fiesta taking placeShow has adopted a major change in its approach for 2014 and plans to throughout Western Australia’s Great Southern region from February 28-Marchintroduce restaurant wine dinners into the judging process. 29. TV presenter and writer Adam Liaw will be a key presenter, along withFour grape varieties - shiraz, grenache, cabernet sauvignon and “whites” - will Western Australian food personalities, including Anna Gare, Don Hancey,be highlighted in the dinners contributing to the deliberations as judging goes Silas Masih and Dan Sharp. It is anticipated that over 45 individual events willinto the final round. “The question of whether wine should be judged with food be hosted at participating vineyards, restaurants and public venues - rangingis a heated one in the wine world,” says wine show committee chair Daniel from farmer markets, guest chef demonstrations, degustation dinners, beachZuzolo of Primo Estate. “But we feel that, with exceptional regional produce barbecues and picnics as well as performances from the Perth Internationaland the skills of our great chefs being so much a part of our lifestyle here in Arts Festival repertoire. Highlights in 2015 will include the Albany OysterMcLaren Vale, it’s a natural fit.” Public tastings of the trophy and medal winning Festival, the Mount Barker Graze and the annual Porongurup Wine Festivalwines will be held in McLaren Vale and Adelaide. and its “One Wok Wonder” cook-off. All the major sub-regions of the Great Southern will unite in presenting Taste 2015, with the region set to celebrateOUTSTANDING fine produce, fine wine and community spirit in earnest. The full program isCONTRIBUTION available at www.greatsoutherntastewa.com.ONE of the unsung heroes of the wineindustry, Peter Dry, has been named as thewinner of the 2014 Maurice O’Shea Award.Held every two years, the Maurice O’SheaAward recognises an individual or groupfor their outstanding contribution to the wineindustry. In receiving the award, Dry joined aselect group of some of the most celebratedand respected figures in the Australian wineindustry. He has been a viticulturist, teacher,researcher, editor and writer, with over 40 yearsin the industry.In 2012 he was inducted as only the sixth Fellow of the Australian Society of Viticultureand Oenology, recognising his long career in teaching and research.McWilliam’s CEO Rob Blackwell said the award was fitting recognition for along and illustrious career. “Peter’s contribution to the wine industry through hisresearch, teaching positions and industry roles has been significant. There are fewwinemakers and viticulturists who have not been touched in some way by his work.I congratulate Peter on receiving this award and thank him on behalf of the industryfor his substantial contribution to the Australian wine industry.” McWilliam’s also hadgood news to report late in the year after buying back the 10 per cent of the companythat was in the hands of investors to once again be 100 per cent family owned.

europeanreport WORDS sally easton MW ORDER RESTOREDNORTHERN hemisphere harvest reports and Compared to the five-year average, Champagne sometimes stormy weather that brought downvolume forecasts for vintage 2014 come in thick is forecast to be up by a fifth, Bordeaux up by 8 per production by around 15 per cent in the Veneto,and fast from about August to October as, primarily, cent, with other regions plus or minus a few percent. which is Italy’s biggest wine region. The reverseEuropean harvests are brought in during these After the tiny 2013 harvest (3.9mhl, compared with picture emerged for central Italy, where Tuscanmonths. Vintage 2014 looks to have restored the last five-year average of 5.7mhl), the Bordelais production was forecast to be up by around 10the traditional order of the three biggest wine are again particularly thankful. Vintage 2014 will per cent, the Marches by 5 per cent and Lazio byproducing countries - France, Italy and Spain. But give the region enough wine of sufficient quality 10 per cent.there were some challenging growing conditions to meet demand. The Champenois have endedin much of Europe. up being particularly happy with the quality Spain, being a country of separate autonomies, of chardonnay. The Drinks Business, a trade always takes a while to report, nationally. Early In France it all started so auspiciously. Spring publication, reported Champagne Devaux’s chief indications from the country’s ministry of agriculturewas early and early summer was dry and warm. winemaker Michel Parisot suggesting vintage suggested that the total grape harvest may dropBut by the end of June and beginning of July rains wines may even be made in 2014. to about 40mhl, but this figure would include aarrived and hailstorms took their toll in key regions, proportion of the harvest that stays as grape juiceincluding Champagne, Bordeaux, Languedoc and Languedoc’s harvest is forecast to be down nearly (it is not fermented into wine). This total forecast isBurgundy, where some producers saw damage to 10 per cent on last year, to around 12.4mhl. The 25 per cent lower than the 54mhl harvested in 2013.up to 90 per cent of their vines. And in just one part volume of wine from just this region is about theof the Languedoc region, including Minervois and same as the whole of Australia produced in 2014. If these various country forecasts are subsequentlyCorbieres, over 10,000ha were affected by an early For the Languedoc, such a modest volume has proved accurate it will mean that France regainsJuly hailstorm. It was estimated this one hailstorm raised some concerns about a supply shortfall from top world producer slot (47mhl in 2014 v 42mhl inremoved up to 1.5 million hectolitres (mhl) from the the region in France that provides much usually 2013), which it lost to Italy (41mhl in 2014 versusharvest, which, as it turned out, represented more economical, and value for money wine. 48mhl in 2013). In 2014 Spain’s total harvest dropped below the other two countries. The otherIf these various country forecasts are subsequently proved accurate 2013 anomaly was that Spain’s wine (as opposed toit will mean that France regains top world producer slot. wine and grape) harvest came in at 43mhl, which, unusually, shunted France down into third position. than 10 per cent of the region’s vintage volume. The northerly Loire valley also suffered that poor The important month of August then followed wet weather in July and August, also followed by a Germany’s fortunes looked a little more saviour of a September, with warmth, light and favourable. Ernst Buscher of the German Wine and cool. But Indian summer weather in September sunshine. Charles Sydney, a broker in the region Institute said: “winegrowers expect good qualities was looking like it has saved the day across much reported that for muscadet and sauvignon blanc and an average yield for the new vintage. Average of the country. The Bordelais have been particularly “the harvest was in as near perfect conditions as yields across Germany are expected to reach thankful to unseasonably warm and dry weather you can get. The grapes have come in with real the longstanding annual average of about 9mhl. in September, during which month the marathon concentration and intensity, an ideal balance of Last year (2013) saw low yields of just 8.4mhl of du Medoc took place in a parched 28C. “It was sugar to acidity.” must, or 8 per cent below the annual average.” He quite a marathon” in the vineyard, too, according added: “while a warm spring and early flowering to Bordeaux negociant Dourthe’s head winemaker, Italy, however, didn’t get the sunny September initially pushed vine growth and development Frederic Bonnaffous, who explained, “everything reprieve of France. Adverse weather conditions significantly ahead of schedule, an unusually happened at once. Frequent cutting, disease saw production forecast to fall to 41mhl, from cool and wet August slowed things back down. prevention, additional thinning around bunches, 48mhl in 2013, according to that country’s farmers’ Despite the fluctuations the warm, sunny days and eliminating secondary shoots and cultivating the organisation, Coldiretti. This is down more than cool nights of the end of September/beginning of soils.” After September’s sunshine surged sugar 15 per cent on 2013, and would make it Italy’s November were ideal for the development of aroma levels, the company was happy with its results. smallest volume harvest since 1950. Inclement compounds in the berries.” weather - in this case, drought - most affected In the end, France’s ministry of agriculture the big-producing regions of Sicily and Puglia, As a minor footnote in the global scheme of forecast a harvest of 47mhl, some 5mhl bigger resulting in a 30 per cent drop in volume. These things, the English wine industry is excited about than the very small 2013 harvest. 2014 is in line two regions alone typically account for more than the quality and volume of its grapes. September with the five-year average size. The September a quarter of Italy’s total wine harvest. was the driest in more than 100 years, with around warmth may just have turned around the vintage 20 per cent of the month’s typical rainfall, (also into one of unexpected quality, too. In the north of the country it was cold, wet and following a wet August), and September was also one of the top five warmest months, warmer than18 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015 the long-term average by more than 1C. Wine producers were pretty happy people in 2014.

Made in ItalysupremoOfficial glass for the Winestate Wine of the Year Wine Ambassador• High-tech blown lead-free crystal glass• Very high resistance to breakages• Resistant to over 4000 industrial cycles These stem glasses are produced with a new process to make the glasses lighter and thinner while maintaining their strength. The bowls are innovative and elegant with unique properties, enhancing the wine’s aroma, whilst lessening the alcoholic element.

winetutor WORDS clive hartley TANNIN TELLS THE TALEI REGARD tannin as an essential component to and Basilicata in southern Italy, and is colloquially wine as sediment, has now been challenged. Ita red wine and I feel disappointed when they are known as the “barolo of the south” due to its tannic may be that the aged wine tannins are simply notabsent. They provide a balance and enhancement nature. There are a tiny number of producers in combining with saliva proteins and therefore areto the palate, like adding seasoning to food. Yet Australia, Calabria Family Wines being a notable not reducing your saliva as they did when theso many Australian wines seem to lack tannin, one. Given its name, tannat is not surprisingly a wine tannins were young. In research conductedseemingly being replaced by copious amounts of tannic grape and is responsible for the wines of by the AWRI the choice of commercially availablealcohol and fruit. Tannin is an integral part of what Madiran in south western France as well as being yeast strains were shown to influence the amountconstitutes the texture on the palate of a wine and the chief red grape in Uruguay. But tannin can be of tannins a wine had. Oxygen has a major roleis one of the key attributes of a quality red wine. So found lurking in most grape varieties and I’ve been in modifying tannins and micro-oxygenation haswhy are tannins disappearing in Australian wines? surprised at levels found in Burgundian pinot noir been employed in the wine industry for manyIn our industry, perhaps market research has and Chianti (sangiovese) from Tuscany. years. This is the process of treating wine withindicated the general wine drinker, and especially small continuous bubbles of oxygen after thethe younger market, finds them disagreeable? Riper grapes have higher tannin levels, and fermentation process is complete. The result isOr are they necessary at all, when the majority of grapes that have come from lower yielding a softening of tannins and was first used in thewine produced is consumed within a year or two vineyards that have less access to water, have an region of Madiran on tannat grapes. Alternatively,of bottling? winemakers can either strip the wine of tannin I recently tasted my way through fining with milk, egg or fish products or, if Tannins come from a number of different sources. a wine is lacking tannin, they can add oenotanninsGrape tannins are the commonest type and come through 30 or so producers, made from grape seeds.from either the skin or seeds. Grape tanninsare known as proanthocyanidins or condensed and was astounded at their White wines can exhibit some tannins occasionally,tannins. These are then turned into wine tannins especially if they have had extended skin contactafter fermentation, which changes their make- tannin levels. My mouth was before fermentation or extended time in oak.up slightly, especially as they react with oxygen However, it is fairly uncommon and I advise myand acids. Wine can also pick up tannins while in gridlock for a week. students to not look for tannins in white wine.being matured in oak; these are referred to ashydrolysable tannins. increasingly tannic profile due to their higher skin Tannins react in the mouth with our saliva protein to juice ratio. Generally speaking, warm climates to produce that dry and astringent sensation which Grapes vary in the amount of tannin they contain. such as Australia produce wines with softer, ripe can be called “mouthfeel”. Basically our mouthOften the smaller, thicker-skinned varieties have tannins, while cooler regions, found say in northern is dryer as a result of swallowing our own salivamore tannins. There are some highly tannic France, or south island New Zealand, have greener, which has attached itself to the tannins, and itgrape varieties - cabernet sauvignon, nebbiolo, tougher and more noticeable tannins which is takes a while for our mouth to replace the salivasagrantino, aglianico and tannat. one reason why you don’t see tannic varieties like lost. Interestingly, if the wine has plenty of acidity cabernet sauvignon grown in cooler regions. then we create saliva more quickly and so the two Native to Piemonte, nebbiolo gives us barolo and wine constituents can work together. The impact ofbarbaresco, and is increasingly being made in Stalks can also give us tannin. The use of stalks is tannins can be described in a number of ways butAustralia, notably around Adelaide Hills. It could be often associated with pinot noir to give the resulting it is probably the hardest topic to teach in sensoryargued that barolo is not as tannic as it previously wine more grippy astringency on the palate. The evaluation training. Tannins are often described aswas due to better viticultural and winemaking use of whole bunches in the fermentation vessel dense, sinewy, robust, bitter and harsh when theypractices, and attempts to make it more of an early also allows more tannins as well as giving the wine are excessive or green; too supple, round, ripe anddrinking style. In traditional Italian regions there some slight carbonic maceration notes. well integrated when they appear well managedis often a split between modern and traditional and ripe. When grading tannin you can compare itproducers, in other words fruit forward wines verses We are still learning about tannin behaviour and to tea. Some drinkers enjoy the lightest green teas,tannin, earthy wines. That cannot be said of another how to master it. Generally wine tannins mellow which are fairly low in tannin, while others prefernotable tannic variety - sagrantino. Its home is the and soften during ageing, which is one of the key robust English breakfast. Palates have varyinghilltop village of Montefalco in Umbria and I recently features of a mature wine. This generally held levels of sensitivity to tannins. You might thrive ontasted my way through 30 or so producers, and was belief, that during the ageing process the tannins the astringency that tannin creates, while othersastounded at their tannin levels. My mouth was in continually polymerise and become longer chain shy away and simply have a sweet tooth.gridlock for a week. Aglianico is found in Campania molecules until they precipitate or fall out of the20 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015



winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING MESMERISED BY MEXICAN MYSTERIESONE of the highlights of my life was a trip to Chichen Merida’s former wealth is still on parade via popularity as much as you would think.Itza, one of the largest Mayan sites in Mexico. Like elaborate 19th century townhouses, the giant To test the theory that historical interest and lifestylethousands of others, I had planned the journey to Catedral de San Ildefonso and haciendas, andcoincide with the spring equinox. One of only two many have been turned into boutique hotels such rather than inexpensive day tours are the main visitortimes a year when the shadow of Kukulcan, the as the Luz en Yucatan, Piedra de Agua Boutique driver, several hotels cater to a largely Europeanplumed serpent god, comes slithering down the steps Hotel and Rosas y Xocolate, part of the Design and American rich beach bum clientele like theof El Castillo, the famous step pyramid, to complete Hotels group. Merida might be a city of one million- hot-as Be Tulum Hotel. The powder white beach atthe fabled descent of the snake. Almost on cue, when plus and bristles with museums, art galleries, Soliman Bay fronts the Jashita Hotel owned by thethe sun hit a certain angle in the sky, a pitch-black shopping malls and fine dining restaurants such Marchiorello family from Verona. Think Architecturalshadow leapt out of the top of the pyramid and rippled as Nectar to the rustic classic dishes of La Chaya Digest lobby, the best margaritas, private fishing trips.down the nine huge steps of the pyramid until it joined Maya. But the not-to-miss spot is the 17th century Another Italian, Alessandra Carozzino, owns Posadawith the stone head of Kukulcan carved at the base of Hacienda Vista Alegre which produces traditional Margerita where the grilled lobster eaten by the clearthe northern stairway. The illusion electrified everyone rum and offers tastings of liqueurs from tropical Caribbean waters is the stuff of dining dreams.privileged to be present from New Age believers to a fruits such as coconut and guanabana. For thosebunch of American frat boys enjoying a beer-free day with time to spare, many of the hotels run half-day Kukulcan is again centre stage at the main templefrom their spring break revels in Cancun. tours of Merida’s sprawling food market and a at Tulum, also called El Castillo. But he shares Mayan cooking class in the guide’s home. space with an upside-down winged god known as For those in search of culture, gorgeous beaches, the “diving god”, who stands forever poised to leap into the aquamarine waters of the Caribbean below.Many photographers and artists from all over the world come Many photographers and artists from all over thehere to capture the juxtaposition of the sophisticated carvings world come here to capture the juxtaposition of theof the pre-Colombian city against the backdrop of the ocean. sophisticated carvings of the pre-Colombian city against the backdrop of the ocean.great food and plush resorts, the Yucatan Peninsula Tours to World Heritage-listed Chichen Itza, votedfrom Cancun, Cozumel and Playa del Carmen one of the seven new wonders of the world in 2007, The Mayan city that gets the number-one ratingwhich border the Caribbean to the chief Mayan are available from every hotel above two-star status from archaeologists is Uxmal (pronounced oosh-mal),sites of Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Tulum delivers in in Merida. Like the Taj Mahal, the best time to visit which is also a World Heritage site. The name meansspades. It’s also the place to discover that most Chichen Itza is in the early morning or late in the day. “thrice-built” in Mayan and refers to the buildingMexicans are beer drinkers, from the internationally It’s cooler and the light is better for photographs. of the site’s most famous structure, the Pyramid ofknown Corona and Dos Equis to Modelo Especial, That’s where the similarities end. The Chichen Itza the Magician. You used to be able to climb up theVictoria and Pacifico because amber brews are the site sprawls for over 10 square kilometres and you 38m-high pyramid but, if you suffer from vertigo asbest accompaniments to local food. Mexicans are need at least a day to explore it fully. For this reason, I do, the steeply angled descent was a nightmare.one of the least wine-drinking people in the world many visitors prefer to overnight close to the site Although not as much of an awful experience as itand 80 per cent of Mexico’s tiny wine production and all visiting dignitaries stay at The Lodge at was for the victims of the human sacrifices oncefrom the Guadalupe Valley in Baja is exported to Chichen Itza or the adjacent Hotel at Chichen Itza, performed in the temple at the top of the pyramid.the US and Europe. both of which are reasonably priced (mayaland. Their hearts were cut out with a flint knife and their com) for a relatively high standard of luxury. For bodies (still moving) were flung down the steep steps. The capital of Yucatan state, Merida, makes a great Mayan hybrid fusion food, the best table is at thebase for visiting the most important Mayan sites of the Hacienda Chichen and Yaxyin Spa. The grisly rites were mainly performed to placateregion - Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Tulum. The city’s Chaac, the rain god, whose face glares out from theMaya Museum, which houses more than 750,000 Tulum isn’t the biggest or the best Mayan site carvings on the upper part of the pyramid. Uxmal wasexhibits, opened in 2012 and the historic centre of and it was built in 1200 AD when the Mayan culture one of the largest cities on the Yucatan Peninsula,the old town, the largest in the Americas after Mexico was already in decline. But its spectacular setting, boasting a population of 25,000 during its glory daysCity and Havana, could double as a movie set. At the just above a snow-white beach, is one of the main in the Late Classic Period (600 to 900 AD). The Palacebeginning of the 20th century, Merida boasted that it reasons more than 80 tour buses deposit tourists of the Governor, widely hailed as the best example ofhad more millionaires than any other city in the world, here daily. The proximity of the ruins to Cancun, late Mayan architecture still preserved in its originalthanks to the production of henequen, a natural fibre gringo party central of the nearby coast dubbed form, is the main site of the nightly Light and Soundonce widely used for rope-making. the Mayan Riviera, helps but doesn’t fuel Tulum’s Show. Revamped a few years ago, it shouldn’t be missed. Mayaland is also the operator of The Lodge at Uxmal and the Hacienda Uxmal, and the restaurant in the former offers traditional Yucatan food that will wean you off Tex-Mex travesties forever such as organic pork stews and rich chicken stews.22 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015



winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKEL AndrE L Simon in Adelaide (Continued)HAVING spent what must have been a gruelling opened. It must have been a relief to Simon walked up the footpath of Adelaide’s North Tceday at a barbecue at Hardy’s in McLaren Vale, to have a quiet meal without being under the from his accommodation at the now demolishedoctogenarian Frenchman Andre Simon would gaze of everyone: with his distinctive shock of South Australian Hotel, and crossed the road toprobably have appreciated a restful evening white hair it was difficult for him to go anywhere the Public (now State) Library of South Australia.at his room at Adelaide’s South Australian and not be recognised. Simon described the Here he was met by the principal librarian,Hotel. But despite the heat wave, when the restaurant’s owner: “The proprietor is a rich Hedley Brideson, who ushered him to where thetemperature reached the old century for several young man…and a racing motorist at times, library had, in his honour, prepared a display ofdays in a row, Simon could not resist a dinner who is much more interested in fine fare than in books about wine, many of which he had written.invitation. “I enjoyed the most unexpected repas wine salesmanship, let alone office work”. South In years to come, the library’s not inconsiderablegastronomique, in a new Adelaide restaurant Australians and others will remember Jolly as collection was to be described as one of thethat was closed to the public” because it was a tall, dark-haired, somewhat unconventional biggest on wine in the world. To enable Simona public holiday (Australia Day). It turned bloke, devoted to his car racing, the arts, to look around without being hassled, heout to be a memorable evening, both for the especially modern music, and to modern arrived, together with local TV cameramen, halfguests - Simon and his Melbourne friend and technology. He was an excellent host. I well an hour before the library opened. Simon wasA few days earlier, in Melbourne, Simon had apparently met pavlova for the first time,describing it as ‘the greatest novelty to me’.itinerary arranger, and head of the Wine and remember a landmark meal there two years most impressed, and was quoted in the nextFood Society of Australia, Victor Gibson, and later, when I drank for the first time both Penfolds day’s morning newspaper as saying it was “thehis wife Madge - and for the restaurant’s owner, Grange, possibly 1960, and also Seppelt Para greatest compliment ever paid to me anywhere”.a young Derek Jolly. “We had it all to ourselves, Liqueur - definitely 1927. To accompany the He “promised to assist with filling gaps” whenwith the owner and his girlfriends as helpers,” Grange I enjoyed Coq au Vin. To his three he returned to London in March, but I can findrecorded Simon. Jolly was a nephew of Jeffrey distinguished guests Jolly served “a chive- no evidence that he did.Penfold Hyland, Penfolds’ director, who played a scented creme germiny, a melting cheesemajor part in organising Simon’s Australian visit, soufflé made with true Gruyere, baby lamb Simon and Gibson then drove to the “Instituteand who had arranged the evening. In a letter cutlets with baby petits pois, which were picked of Oenology,” (the Australian Wine Researchto Gibson 15 days earlier, Penfold Hyland had in his grandfather’s garden that afternoon by one Institute, at Urrbrae in the foothills, establishedrecommended that Wine Board president Ian of the girlfriends – who also cooked the dinner. in 1955), where they were greeted by theSeppelt, Wine and Brandy Producers in South There was also a pavlova, the favourite sweet director, Dr John Fornachon, whose nameAustralia president Henry Martin and Penfolds’ of the country, with a decor of freshly picked, Simon misspelled - a rare mistake. SimonSouth Australian manager Max Schubert be very ripe mulberries”. A few days earlier, in met some of the staff, and also “some ofinvited, with their wives, “should Andre agree, Melbourne, Simon had apparently met pavlova Fornachon’s glass tubes, full of pure yeastparticularly in view of the fact that Mrs Gibson for the first time, describing it as “the greatest well under control”. The two men were thenwill be accompanying you”. Apparently Simon novelty to me ... all meringue, creme Chantilly shown (doubtless a euphemism for “tasted”)did not agree, because he only mentions himself and strawberries”. wines of different grapes made experimentally.and the Gibsons as being present. Simon not surprisingly found the visit “most Tuesday morning, 28 January 1964, began interesting”. Neither of these visits appeared The North Adelaide restaurant Decca’s Place, somewhat unusually for Simon. Instead of a drive in Simon’s itinerary, so must have been last-after its owner’s nickname, had only recently to the country and tastings at wine cellars, he minute additions.24 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

SOUTH AUSTRALIA THE WINE STATEOPEN THE DOOR TOPREMIUM WINE

T‘OFMMCAHFAORCEKATSTHZITONYER’G26 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

Virnetpao2g0er1t4CHARLES GENT In an early vintage in the Riverina, concentration was the hallmark, again the result of low yieldsCONDITIONS and fortunes in the 2014 vintage from hot, dry conditions. In South Australia’sproved to be more variable than ever. Riverland, a catalogue of trying weather conditions - frost, heat and heavy rain - was In South Australia, one vigneron succinctly compounded by pests and disease, and thesummed up the growing season as “crazy”, a small reduction in yield was a tribute to goodfairly restrained response in the face of heat, vineyard management.frost, then more heat, followed by a St Valentine’sDay deluge and a long, cool finish. Over in the Spring frosts cut a swathe across much ofHunter Valley, the late Murray Tyrrell’s endlessly Victoria, and fruit set was affected significantly,optimistic appraisal of each year as the vintage reducing yields almost everywhere and in someof the century looks for once to be half-true, with areas by as much as two-thirds. Beechworth,broad consensus that 2014 is among the very Bendigo and Mornington Peninsula all suffered,best years of the past 50. Western Australia, although the wine that was made looks elegant,meanwhile, continued on its secessionist path, which was also the case in Heathcote, theyet again producing a copy-book vintage. Grampians and the Pyrenees. In Queensland, the Granite Belt was dealt a Glenrowan dodged the frost, but Rutherglentroika of frost, hailstorms and heatwaves. While didn’t: shiraz and cabernet are likely to be theit was disastrous for some vineyards, especially best of the varieties from the North West.those in the south, others fared better, albeit withoverall crops and yields considerably reduced. After years of early finishes because of warmth, Tasmania’s cooler growing season - a little too South of the border, the dreaded heavy rains cool for fruit set in the east and the south - sawthat so often sabotage vintage in the Hunter vintage return to a more customary March andstayed away, putting the seal on almost ideal April schedule, producing high quality in pinotgrowing conditions. Vintage was unhurried, noir and chardonnay crops, with the benefitsallowing all varieties to be picked at optimum flowing on to the riesling. Quantities overallripeness. The results are eliciting comparisons were well down.with the legendary vintages of 1965 and 1954. Lost yield would become a familiar watchword In the New South Wales southern hinterland, across South Australia, too. The Adelaide Hills,Orange and Canberra were both subjected to with yields down by at least 25 per cent - ininitial heat followed by persistent rain, conditions some places much more - still elicited strongthat would also bring losses from mould and performances from its sauvignon blanc, withmildew to Goulburn and Tumbarumba. In Orange, shiraz and chardonnay not far behind.low yields but excellent fruit flavours emerged fromthe higher sites for pinot, chardonnay, sauvignon Local wineries were fortunate to escape bothblanc and shiraz. Cabernet sauvignon looks to be damage and smoke taint from a bushfire thatthe stand-out from low yields in Hilltops. Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 27

Virnetpao2g0er1t4 IF THERE IS A POSITIVE NOTE, IT IS IN THE SALES GROWTH OF HIGHER PRICED WINES, WHICH IS EDGING UP. 28 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

burned out thousands of hectares east of Eden crowned king, and also in McLaren Vale, where whites and reds in good shape.Valley. Despite more than 10 days of extreme the mid-February downpour brought relief from For the Great Southern sub-regions of Albany,January heat and the bucketing in mid-February, a two-pronged heatwave and “only” 40mm ofthe weather settled down for ripening in the rain. Harvest was delayed by cooler conditions, Denmark, Frankland River, Mount Barker andClare, Barossa and Eden valleys, with fragrant and the Vale’s stalwarts - shiraz, cabernet and Porongorup, the story was much the same.riesling and well flavoured, if medium bodied, grenache - look promising. After spring, conditions stayed warm and dryshiraz and cabernet the result. until late April, keeping the fruit free of mildew After early huffing and puffing, Margaret and mould. Although synchronised ripening Early cold temperatures and heavy rains in the River’s maritime climate produced another meant picking was done in a rush, the fruitCoonawarra affected fruit set but then proved a benign year with a slightly late harvest, and quality was immaculate. Yields hovered aroundboon in surviving the heat of high summer, which winemakers are pointing to their chardonnay as the average, with chardonnay, riesling andwas followed with extended but disease-free near perfect, with suggestions of great potential sauvignon blanc, and also shiraz and cabernet,ripening; “classic” examples of cabernet and for the cabernet. expected to shine.shiraz are anticipated in lower volumes. Extreme heat was almost absent in both The Swan Valley’s vintage was hastened by a The pattern was repeated with less rain at Pemberton and Manjimup, as good spring rains very warm January, but fruit quality was pleasing.Langhorne Creek, where the cabernet has been were followed by a warm season that left both Although the national crush was down in volume by around 7 per cent, mostly at the expense of the cooler regions, there was little movement in terms of the most popular varieties; the top 10 remains unchanged with the exception of pinot gris, which nudged out colombard for eighth spot. There is still much activity around newer varieties, and among the whites, vermentino looks as if it may prove a stayer. Such ebbs and flows at the micro level do not, however, alter the big picture. Indeed, there has been very little movement in any of the fundamentals at the whole-of-industry level. Although the reduced volumes of the 2014 vintage must have come as something of a relief to the Australian Winemakers Federation, the continuous ringing of alarm bells concerning structural oversupply is beginning to resemble a form of tinnitus. Profitability is at best static, and with the stock to sales ratio worsening, the veins of the system are increasingly clogged. Prices paid for grapes have not improved overall, although the dislocation between quantity and quality is becoming ever more obvious. The falling dollar has naturally been welcome, but has been largely offset by stagnation in the overseas market. Regaining traction in the US is proving difficult and sales to China have flattened due to belt-tightening strictures there. If there is a positive note, it is in the sales growth of higher priced wines, which is edging up. As well as continuing in its perennial battle for wine tax reform, the AWF is doing its level best to convince the Federal Government to put up funds for a major overseas marketing and promotion initiative. In the meantime, individual initiative and innovation among winemakers in finding a way to market would, as usual, seem to be the order of the day. Previous Page: Lightning Storm Ahead. Opposite page: Hot Air Balloon at Sunrise over the Yarra Valley In Winter Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 29

TRUTHBEHINDTHEMYTH30 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

It used to be a case of bewareGreeks talking up their wines,but that has all changed.DAN TRAUCKI unique ancient native grape varieties, they are making some really interesting wines.FOR MUCH of last century there was a mytharound that Greek wines were really good. While wine has been made in Greece for eons,The reality was that unless you were a retsina it is only in the last 30 years that the modernaficionado (very much an acquired taste) Greek wine industry has come into being. Untilthey were mainly rustic wines - being slightly then there were around 30 big wineries/co-opsoxidised whites and musty reds. The myth was that processed all the grapes into what couldperpetuated by Greeks living abroad, like my only be described as fairly mundane wine.dear father-in-law who proclaimed that almost Many of their native white varieties are prone toall the good things in this world were a Greek oxidation and thus a fair amount of Greek whitesinvention, and by Euro holiday makers who were slightly brown and not very palatable.guzzled gallons of fresh young Greek white Since then, while the area planted to vines haswines while sunning themselves on the shores hardly grown, the number of wineries has risenof the Aegean. (No point in Greece is more than to around 500 as artisans joined the industry.130km from the sea.) So I decided to do a “Myth Thus there are a lot more winemakers addingBusters” investigation into this myth. their own TLC (tender loving care) to the wines today, than there were 30 years ago. At the same In recent times and especially since the tourists time most of the newcomers, being younger andstopped coming to Greece because of the GFC, more dynamic, embraced modern winemakingthere has been a dramatic transformation in technology so that the oxidised white wines thatGreek wine. It has improved in massive leaps I remember from my early wine drinking days areand bounds, and is now good enough that it is a thing of the past, especially among exportersbeing exported around the world. Today usingmodern winemaking techniques coupled with Left: Bacchus (Dionysus) marble statue. Above: Marble statue of wine maker with grape and legs. 31 Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E

who today are keenly aware of what the rest of first Australian winery to plant assyrtiko here Yet another interesting native white grapethe wine drinking-world is looking for. about two years ago. So while you are waiting variety is vilana, which makes a very pleasant for its vines to mature and produce its first light wine that goes really well with seafood. Greece in total produces around about the wine, keep a look out for and enjoy some of However, when vilana is given the Rolls-Royce-same quantity of wine as Bordeaux does, the lovely Greek wines available now such as treatment as with the Lyrarakis 2013 Singleso it is not a “big” player in world terms. Not the Gaia 2012 “Thalassitis” from the island of Vineyard – Barrel Fermented Vilana, you get asurprisingly given its climate, Greeks drink more Santorini. This wine has a bright, lively colour, superb wine with great aromas and much morewhite wine than red and their reds are light to a powerful aromatic bouquet and on the palate, depth of flavour, a truly outstanding white wine.medium-bodied, not like the Aussie big, full- and alluring minerality with flavours that lingerblown style reds we are accustomed too. on a long, crisp finish. Within the Greek wine industry there is a totally unique grape growing environment on the island Greece has around 250 native grape varieties, Among the other white varieties which are of Santorini. As Leon Karatsalos from Gaiawhich added to the linguistic challenge of the starting to wave the Greek flag is malagousia, Wines explained, on this island the vines arevarieties names, causes a marketing nightmare. which has light muscat-like characters of “basket” or “birds nest” pruned, hugging theThus many wineries have decided to focus on a apricots and lime. While making a pleasant wine ground of this extinct volcano so that they arefew rather unique native varieties to promote to on its own, it really adds character to blends not seared by the strong and often hot winds thatthe rest of the world. In the whites, the focus is with other varieties such as roditis, like in the blast the island. As all the soil on the island ison assyrtiko, rhoditis and malagousia. Assyrtiko Ki Yianni 2013 Petra. volcanic, there is little to no organic matter in itis the star of the Greek white wine firmament. thus no concerns for the usual pests that troubleIt is a low yielding, thick skinned variety with If you are interested in trying the unique, a truly other grape growing areas. This infertile soilamazing acidity. The pH of most of these wines fascinating wine I have recently tasted is the along with the unique trellising system meansis between 2.6 and 2.9 g/litre, giving them a Lyrarakis 2013 dafni (grape variety), which has a that the yields are extremely low - down to onecrisp, steely acid finish, which makes them a beguiling floral nose with hints of rosewater and to two tonnes per acre, producing extraordinaryfantastic partner to seafood. star anise on the palate - completely different to and uniquely flavoured wines. The wines from any other wine I have ever tasted. Jim Barry Wines in the Clare valley was the32 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

This infertile soil along with the unique trellising system means that the yields are extremely lowSantorini stand out from the rest of the Greek Another red Greek native variety which I would is big-bodied and still very tight (it won a trophypack due to their greater depth and intensity recommend trying is madilari - the Lyrarakis at the 2013 Berlin Wine Show). At six years oldwhich comes from growing in such an alien and 2010 Madilari is a big flavoured, rich, smooth this wine has ages to go before it hits its besthostile environment. wine and it finishes with some lovely grippy and is without doubt the best cabernet merlot I tannins, making it a great food wine. have tasted in the last few years. In terms of Greek red wines, agiorgitiko andxinomavro (which is actually pronounced shi As is the case with Portuguese wines, some of To round off a perfect meal it would be hard tonomero) are the stars, ably supported by several the best wines made from native varieties are go past a glass (or two) of Lyrarakis Malvasiaof the other lesser known native varieties. blends of several varieties designed to achieve of Crete, a beerenauslese style (rather than certain flavours. A great example of this is the botrytis affected) dessert wine which is ever Kir Yianni winemaker, Lambro Papadimitrou, Tsantalis Rapsani Reserve 2010 made from so easy to drink. Cap this off with a glass ofmakes some excellent xinomavro wines xinomavro/krassato/stavroto (try saying that vinsanto from Santos Wines, which tastes like aespecially the Kir Yianni 2010 Ramnista which quickly three times!). This wine has a slightly good light, sweet tawny but in fact has only 10.5has distinctive aromas of strawberries and oaky nose, a beautiful mouthfilling, rich palate per cent alcohol because it is made from sunplums, a wonderful depth of complexity and with a hint of fruit sweetness and a superb semi-dried grapes and hasn’t been fortified, sohigh acidity thereby strongly supporting the lingering finish. you can have a decent sized glass of it.argument that xinomavro is the Greek equivalentof Italy’s nebbiolo. Like other lighter bodied In my quest to prove the myth I discovered Here is one myth that has now been proven tobut well-structured reds such as pinot noir and that it’s not only the wines made from native be correct - the Greeks do make some seriouslynebbiolo, xinomavro has the ability to age a long Greek varieties that have improved out of good wines. So when you have the opportunity,time. The Kir Yianni 1997 Ramnista, at 17 years sight in recent times, but also the wines made try some Greek wine, especially with food - youold, was quite light brown/onion-peel coloured with “international” varieties such as cabernet won’t regret itbut had lovely smooth, bottle-aged complexity sauvignon. The Lyrarakis 2008 Cabernet Merlotwith a wisp of tomato characters and a grippy is a huge wine needing decanting for the fruit Opposite Page: Santorini Island, Greece, Beautiful View of Blueacid finish that would make it an ideal food wine. aromas to emerge past the predominant oak - it Ocean and Traditional Dome Church Architecture. Above: Santorini Vineyard. 33 Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E

Wine of thAewyaerdas r2014 1 2 34 5 1. Sarah & Sparky Marquis celebrate winning Wine of the Year 2014.34 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015 2. Romeo Landolfi, Brown Brothers accepting Sparkling Wine of the Year from Gemma Schrapel, Get Wines Direct. 3. Giovanna Toldi, Adelaide Convention Centre presenting Semillon trophy to Ben Wallis of Coolangatta Estate. 4. Hemera Wines receiving the Classic Oak trophy for best Merlot. 5. Greg Cordingley, Cathy Branson, Andrew Branson, Tim Russell of Luigi Bormioli presenting Alternative Whites Trophy. 6. Sweet White of the Year finalists from Trentham Estate. 7. Geoff Hardy wines celebrate their win with Hamburg Sud sponsor, Ian Henderson. 8. Cathy & Andrew Branson of Mt Burrumboot Wines, winners of the Luigi Bormioli Alternative Whites Trophy. 9. Bec Hardy, Peter Simic, Shane Harris & Geoff Hardy. 10. Winemakers Federation’ Paul Evans & Lara Simic presenting Alternative Reds trophy to Andrew Locke accepting for Rosemount. 11. Winestate’ Chairman of judges, Stephen John. 12. Boston Bay receiving the award for the Pellenc Riesling of the Year. 13. Adam Neiderer presenting Orora Glass trophy for Sweet White of the Year to Burnbrae Wines.

67 8WINE OF THE YEAR - Mollydooker Carnival of Love McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012RUNNER-UP WINE OF THE YEAR - K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2012AUSTRALIAN WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR - Kym Milne MW.AUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANY OF THE YEAR - Geoff Hardy Wines.NEW ZEALAND WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR - Hamish Clark, Saint Clair Wines.NEW ZEALAND WINE COMPANY OF THE YEAR - Saint Clair Wines. 9 10 1112 13 Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 35

THE AWAR2D01S41 Sparkling - GET WINES DIRECT TROPHY 1st Brown Brothers Patricia King Valley Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut 2008 Alternative Whites - LUIGI BORMIOLI TROPHY 1st Mount Burrumboot Heathcote Marsanne Viognier 2009 Pinot Gris/Grigio - ITALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE MELBOURNE TROPHY 1st Wairau River Marlborough Pinot Gris 2014 Riesling - PELLENC TROPHY 1st Boston Bay Peninsulas South Australia Riesling 2014 Sauvignon Blanc - GANTLEYS OF QUEENSTOWN TROPHY 1st Saint Clair Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Semillon - ADELAIDE CONVENTION CENTRE TROPHY 1st Coolangatta Estate Estate Grown Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2006 Chardonnay - ARTISAN WINE STORAGE TROPHY 1st Devil’s Lair Margaret River Chardonnay 2012 2 336 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

Alternative Reds - WINEMAKERS FEDERATION OF AUSTRALIA TROPHY 1st Rosemount MV Collection Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2013 Pinot Noir - VINTEC TROPHY 1st Akarua Central Otago Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2012 Merlot - CLASSIC OAK TROPHY4 1st Hemera Limited Release Barossa Merlot 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon - HAMBURG SUD TROPHY 1st K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Shiraz/Syrah - PULPIT CELLARS TROPHY 1st Mollydooker Carnival of Love McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 Sweet Whites - ORORA GLASS TROPHY 1st Burnbrae Mudgee Botrytis Semillon 2013 Fortifieds - D.W. FOX TUCKER TROPHY 1st Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rare Liqueur Tokay NV Best Value Australian Wine Under $20 - ALDI STORES TROPHY 1st Shingleback Davey Brothers McLaren Vale Shiraz 20125 6 7 81. Winestate’s Peter Jackson presenting Australian Wine Company of the Year Award to Geoff Hardy.2. Lara Simic, Stephen John and Peter Simic.3. Mollydooker celebrate their win.4. Brent Rands, Gantleys of Queenstown with Hamish Clark, Saint Clair wines.5. Winestate’s Peter Jackson presenting Sam Rose from Wairau River the trophy for Pinot Gris.6. Winestate’s Peter Jackson presenting New Zealand Wine Company of the Year to Hamish Clark, Saint Clair wines.7. Pinot of the Year winner from Akarua with Peter Jackson8. Winestate’s Peter Jackson presenting New Zealand WInemaker of the Year to Hamish Clark, Saint Clair wines.9. New Zealand winners scooping the pool. 9 Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 37

THE AWAR2D01S41 1. Lara Simic, Ben Wallis and Giovanna Toldi. 2. Peter Simic, Australian Winemaker of the Year Kym Milne MW and Peter Jackson. 3. Jason Bowyer of Aldi Stores presenting the Australian Best Value Wine Under $20 to John and Kate Davey of Shingleback Wines. 4. Lara Simic, Geoff Hardy and Peter Simic. 5. Geoff Hardy, Ian Henderson and Shane Harris. 6. Sandy Donaldson of D.W. Fox Tucker Lawyers presenting Fortifed of the Year trophy to representatives from Morris Wines.23 45 638 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 39

UNDERSTANDINGTHE CHINASYNDROME40 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

ASIA HAS BECOME A MAJOR PLAYER IN THE WORLD OF WINE, WITHCHINA LEADING THE WAY IN PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION.Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 41

DENIS GASTIN Australia is number two. in the north-east (Liaoning, Jilin and Heilongjiang Recently there has been a sharp drop in wine Provinces), where wine was made traditionallyTHE MOST convincing statement on where Asia using the indigenous vinus vinifera (cow’s nipplestands in the world of wine today is where the sales following the Chinese Government’s move or dragon’s eye) grapes and wild mountain grapeinternational authorities now rank China. The Paris- to crack down on excess gifts and entertainment varieties (literally, shanputao) and they continue toheadquartered International Organisation of Vine for government officials. But it is an interruption to be a major source of grapes for wine. The third majorand Wine (OIV) now ranks China as the world’s fifth- the trend, rather than a trend reversal. And it is the region is in the area around the national capital andlargest wine consuming country by volume. And the frightfully expensive wine that is bearing the burden, Hebei Province, now with 132 wineries.International Wine and Spirits Research organisation particularly the leading Bordeaux labels. Sales ofhas just rated China as the number-one consumer of more moderately priced wine are actually growing, The new frontier is in the north-west, where grapered wine in the world, consuming 155 million nine-litre reflecting the extent to which drinking wine is now growing and winemaking is possible on a vast scale,cases annually - and that is up a massive 136 per a lifestyle factor for successful, and particularly high by any global standard. In Xinjiang Provincecent since 2008. younger, Chinese. A big wave of counterfeit there are now 76 wineries, in Ningxia 52 and Gansu wines is another, rather perverse confirmation of 12. There are smaller numbers in other provinces, The OIV also ranks China as the world’s eighth the importance of wine now, both as a consumer some of them very recent arrivals, and wine islargest wine producing country. So most of this attraction and as a business proposition. now produced in 25 of China’s 28 provinces andconsumption is of domestically produced wine. autonomous regions.However research released this year by Wine Reflecting this, the number of Chinese winemakersIntelligence concluded that the number of Chinese has increased from a few dozen 25 years ago to It is a significant statement of the new importanceconsumers buying imported wine has doubled in the 625 today, as measured by the founder of China of Asia to the traditional wine world that big nameslast three years, to 38 million. Wine imports have risen Wine Online, Jim Sun. The industry is concentrated in wine globally, like Domaines Barons de Rothschildseven-fold over the last six years and the import share in four regions. The largest region is the Shandong Lafite, are taking stakes in Asia, particularly in China.of the market has increased to 19 per cent overall. So Peninsula, where the production of wine with imported Lafite now has a winery in Penglai, Shandongalmost one in five bottles of wine consumed in China European varieties began over 100 years ago. It is Province, with a local partner and its first winesis now imported: France is the number one supplier; where the first wave of the new industry took off and were released earlier this year. Remy Martin and is now home to 160 wineries. There are 102 wineries Pernod Ricard became involved right back in the42 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

IT IS A SIGNIFICANT STATEMENT OF THE NEW IMPORTANCE burgundy and fourth largest for champagne.OF ASIA TO THE TRADITIONAL WINE WORLD THAT BIG Japan’s domestic wine industry covers only a smallNAMES IN WINE GLOBALLY, LIKE DOMAINES BARONS DEROTHSCHILD LAFITE, ARE TAKING STAKES IN ASIA. proportion of national consumption but it is growing and, most interestingly, is increasingly winningearly 1980s, as investors and providers of industry wine world’s attention in Asia because of the size of recognition in traditional global markets both for itsexpertise for what became two of the nation’s largest the domestic industry and the demand for imported high quality wines and also for its unique domesticmodern wine operations. Remy Martin was a joint wine (now 5 per cent of world wine imports). But grape varieties - particularly the local vitis vinifera,venturer in Dynasty Wines and Pernod Ricard in there are also very exciting things happening in other koshu (white) and hybrid muscat bailey A (red). AndDragon Seal. Pernod Ricard now has its own large countries in the region that deserve attention. it is also making advances with the local native wildvineyards and winery, Helan Mountain, in north-west mountain grapes (literally yamabudo), including inNingxia Province. LVMH also now has a venture in Japan has a long established, deeply entrenched newer forms from cross breeding with cabernetNingxia. Other big global wine businesses with a local wine culture, with just over 200 local wineries, a sauvignon, pinot noir etc, as the industry looks backmajor stake in China are France’s Castel, having a couple of them with a history dating back almost 150 to its history.long-standing involvement with the 100-plus-year-old years. Consumption of imported wine took off as theChangyu Winery, in Shandong, and a more recent economy surged in the 1980s and Japan had been I know of more than 40 different local and introducedentrant, Spain’s Torres family, with an independent the largest importer of wine in Asia until just being grape varieties now being used to make wineswine distribution operation and also some small-scale edged out by China in 2012. Despite the big disruption in Japan. However, while the local varieties arelocal winemaking. to demand following the devastating Fukushima expanding their share of total production, it is still Tsunami, Japan is still the largest single export market the classic vitis vinifera varieties that dominate So China, undoubtedly, is now the main focus of the for beaujolais wine, the second largest market for - particularly cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay. Opposite Page Left: Grover Cellar. Opposite Page Right: Helan Mountain Special Reserve. Above Left: Winegarden. Above Right: Xiao Feng. Previous page: Grape Picking Helan Mountain winery Pernod Ricard Ningxia China

Results at the Japan (domestic) Wine Competition, Pune- and, further south, in neighbouring Karnataka where I have been privileged to judge each year State (capital Bangalore). India is also a growing since the competition was first introduced, are a exporter of wine, principally to Europe and North good indication of the degree of progress. In the early America, but also to Japan and Hong Kong. The days, gold medals were rare indeed: in 2004, there principal varieties are the classic French varieties, were just five gold medals awarded. Ten years later, particularly chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc and in 2014, there were 25 gold medals, from a record shiraz. But the range of varieties is now expanding, 797 entries. And the interesting thing is that six of the with Italian varieties doing well and good versions 149 koshu entries and four of the 75 muscat bailey A of local varieties arkavati (white) and akeshyam entries won gold medals. beginning to appear again. India and Thailand are two other Asian countries where there has been encouraging and quite rapid expansion of wine production in recent years, focused on international quality benchmarks. India has a National Constitution in which alcohol consumption is prohibited, and there are some states which continue to ban alcohol sales. But the country now has 90 wineries, the oldest of which, Chateau Indage, was established only in the late 1980s. They are almost entirely in the south-west states of Maharashtra (capital Mumbai) - now with almost 70 wineries, in two regions, Nashik, the biggest, and44 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

Thailand has been emerging as a significant wine producers are mostly dependent on tablewine producing country over the same period grape or hybrid varieties. There are two impressiveand, coincidentally, principally with chenin blanc, operations in Myanmar, around the Inle Lake Region,sauvignon blanc and shiraz. The first, and now largest which are working classic vitis vinifera varieties andwinery, Hua Hin Vineyard (formerly Siam Winery), also fledgling, small scale wine making ventures inwith its very appropriate and unforgettable Monsoon Cambodia and Sri Lanka.Valley label, began making wine spa beverages usingtable grape varieties grown in the so-called Floating The soon to be released 5th edition of The OxfordVineyards, in the Chao Praya Delta, around Bangkok. Companion to Wine will have entries on 12 AsianBut, as its quality targets rose, it established vineyards countries in which wine is now produced. And anin drier, higher altitude locations of Khao Yai (bordering indication of the growing substance and confidencethe spectacular national park, north of Bangkok) and among Asian producers is that an Asian WineHua Hin (coastal, south). Khao Yai is the HQ of the Producers Association (AWPA) was formalisedwine industry, now with four quality-focused wineries. in 2014, as a means of taking the Asia wine storyThere is also one winery in the southern coastal tourist to global markets and exchanging expertise withresort region, Pattaya, and two in the far north of the traditional wine producing countries. It had its firstcountry. Thai wines have won lots of medals in leading exhibition booth and formal reception at the Honginternational wine competitions. Kong Wine & Spirits Fair in November, featuring wineries from four of the six Asian wine producing In addition to the above countries, there are a countries that form the core of this Association. Andgrowing number of wine making operations in Taiwan, there will be lots more in the years ahead.Vietnam, South Korea and Indonesia (Bali) - nowwith seven wineries. In these countries, however, Left: Pergola System Helan Mountain winery. Above: Sula Vineyard. Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E 45





adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSStar Adelaide Thai restaurant Golden Boy is have helped drive a resurgence in Adelaide’s calamari and prawns, or gnudi spinach andnow well into its second incarnation, with new restaurant life that has made dining out not just a ricotta dumplings, all sold in half or full serves.head chef Miles Davies now leading an all- pleasure but a necessity - so book well ahead. The At full throttle the place is noisy, energetic, a littleThai kitchen team. Under its opening chef Nu place is colourful and casual, the kitchen open chaotic - and Adelaide has taken it to its heartSuandokmai, Golden Boy opened with a menu for all to see fronted by a long polished concrete with a vengeance. The wine list is small but slowlythat included some of the gutsy, authentic bar where daily lunchtime specials are displayed. expanding, focused on Italian wine styles bothdishes that made his name at his previous The blackboard wall menu tells the story, with Italian and Australian made. 142 Tynte St, NorthAdelaide restaurant Nu’s and won him an dishes such as banana blossom with chicken, Adelaide. Open lunch Wednesday-Friday, dinnerenthusiastic following. His early departure left chilli jam and coconut salad with crisp shallots, Wednesday-Saturday; phone (08) 8267 5769.customers hovering as the restaurant waited or chargrilled chorizo with smoked paprikafor a suitable successor, which it’s now found mayonnaise and black mussel escabeche. All- Two new long-awaited openings are about toin Davies. time favourites include a mulloway fish pasty with be added to Adelaide’s summer dining menu - chunks of iceberg lettuce. The salads are wild, acclaimed chef Duncan Welgemoed is about to Davies has put his stamp on the award- colourful and crunchy, the flavours are ravishing open Africola on East Tce in Adelaide’s East Endwinning Golden Boy by redesigning more than and gutsy, and the value is extraordinary. 9 Peel (just around the corner from Golden Boy), whilehalf the menu, introducing authentic influences St, Adelaide. Open breakfast and lunch Monday Willunga’s Fino partners Sharon Romeo andfrom broader South East Asia and adding - Friday, dinner Thursday – Saturday; phone (08) chef David Swain opened Fino@Seppelstfieldmore vegetarian options. His cooking, while 8231 8887. in the Barossa Valley late November. Southperhaps a little less flamboyant than Nu’s, still African-born Welgemoed, who will continue hishas great authentic character and flavour, no Running a close second in the popularity association with his previous restaurant Bistrodoubt helped by the period he spent cooking stakes is the ultra-hip Italian, casual but clever Dom, now promises “a contemporary Africanwith acclaimed Sydney chef Christine Manfield. diner Ruby Red Flamingo, which probably has flavour exploring the foods of the tribes of South“My time at Universal with Christine was most had the original owners of this 140-year-old Africa and the influences of the Portuguese, theeye opening and I fell in love with South East former Baptist manse spinning in their graves Indians, the Malaysians and the Dutch. There’sAsian food, both the traditional and Christine’s unless, of course, they have been seduced by not a single restaurant in the world doing whatcelebrated contemporary twists. Christine is a the aromas of chef Enzo Zerdino’s immensely we’re doing - we’re actually exploring the foodcourageous chef and her influence on me shines popular maccheroni eggplant with smoked culture of South Africa and taking it to anotherin the Golden Boy menu today,” Davies says. scarmorze. level.” In his time at Bistro Dom, WelgemoedThe large menu includes terrific dishes such as showed that he was an extraordinarily capableseared salmon in coconut soup with chilli, spicy This has been a very successful partnership and passionate chef, so although South Africancumin lamb with Shandong red dates, Thai basil between restaurant entrepreneur Vittorio cuisine may not yet be on everybody’s lips,and rice cake, and a signature jungle curry of Ventura, front of house manager Lauro soon it may be.stir-fried sirloin with hot banana chilli, kankung Siliquini and chef Zerdino. Unlike its previousand holy basil. Davies and his team also make more glamorous incarnations as a fine dining Fino’s new venture at Seppeltsfield, whilegood use of a charcoal grill, with dishes such as restaurant, the RRF makeover was cheap and retaining their original Willunga restaurant,a roasted half spatchcock marinated in turmeric, cheerful, with a mixed bag of slightly retro is equally appealing - this time focused ongarlic and Mekong whisky. For those customers seating, bare tables, colourful walls and bold Barossa produce such as Schu Am Berkshireunable to choose there is a $58 per person blackboard menus with dishes to share. Its pork, Savannah chickens and Hutton Vale lamb.Tuk Tuk menu designed for sharing. Somewhat heart and soul, however, has been utterly Located in the former 1850s bottling hall, Fino’shidden away beside the adjoining Botanic Bar, Italian and that’s been its secret. Many of chef three new dining areas have been designed byGolden Boy’s styling is industrial chic, with high Zerdino’s dishes are classically simple, such acclaimed architect Max Pritchard. It will be openmarble-topped tables supported on scaffolding, as his paillard di vitello - chargrilled veal with daily for lunch and dinner Friday-Sunday.combined with low leather banquette seating spinach and roast potatoes, spiedini - chargilledand a kitchen table for up to six where the Above: Golden Boy.full kitchen theatre can be appreciated. 309North Tce, Adelaide. Open lunch Friday, dinnerTuesday-Sunday; phone (08) 8227 0799. Possibly the Adelaide restaurant that has givenmost satisfaction to the most people throughout2014 is Peel Street, now in the heart of the city’sburgeoning wine bar precinct. If famed Britishchef Yotam Ottolenghi were to come to town,he’d come here to eat - this is his sort of food,strongly Mediterranean but with a healthy dashof Middle Eastern energy and spice. Co-owner chef Jordan Theodorous and hispartners Ben McLeod and Martin Corcoran48 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015

hong konggrapevine ivy ngHong Kong is a melting pot of cultures. I have repertoire of stories of the cheesemakers never roasted sea bass with cauliflower couscous. Finishbeen very impressed by the number of cosy fails to impress and only perfectly “a point” cheese with JAAL 75% (chocolate, banana, calamansiyet sophisticated restaurants that have recently is served! The bites are $HK80-$HK100 ($A12 - and Madras curry spice). Three-course dinnersurfaced, the result of classically-trained chefs $A15), the starters $H150-$HK200 ($A22 - $A30) for two is around $H1500 ($A222). The wine listcombining their craft with Asian experiences to and the mains range from $HK180-$HK600 ($A27 offers comprehensive choices across Old andcreate their own culinary ventures. - $A89). The cheese selections are $HK168 ($A25) New worlds, including some staggering prices for three-cheese, $HK248 ($A37) for five-cheese for bottles of Chateau Petrus. 35 Aberdeen Street, At the helm of the kitchen at Upper Modern and the ultimate Upper Cheese board served on Central HK. Phone +852 2866 0300.Bistro (new one-star entry in 2015 Michelin Bavarian wood at $HK348 ($A51). The reasonably-guide) is chef Philippe Orrico who previously priced wine list offers choices from France and And a final example of convergence of culturesworked at Pierre (Pierre Gagnaire’s eponymous elsewhere, or bring your bottle at corkage of is Michelin-starred Yu Lei, Chinese restaurant withrestaurant). You cannot miss the dramatic ceiling $HK250 ($A37) a bottle. 6-14 Upper Station St, Japanese executive chef, Miki Ishigawa. Locatedcovered with egg-shaped “petals”, coloured in Sheung Wan, HK. Phone +852 2517 0977. in Hung Hom, Yu Lei is off the beaten track but thewhite, grey and blue, reflecting the chef’s love wine and food service is first-rate. Yu Lei uses topfor eggs. The long, heavy-framed mirrors above For a modern interpretation of British, Aberdeen ingredients and delivers exotic interpretations ofthe cushioned benchseats recall a feature of the Street Social could be your destination. Located traditional Cantonese and Shanghainese cuisines,traditional French bistro, but the rest of the decor inside PMQ (former Police Married Quarters in including sweet and sour pork made with threeis minimalist simplicity, almost Scandinavian-like. Central), it is the latest project by celebrity chef types of vinegar (Japanese apple vinegar, ZhenjiangStart your meal by sharing some “bites” - smoked Jason Atherton and local entrepreneur Yenn black vinegar and aged vinegar), steamed porksalmon toast with cauliflower puree and avruga Wong, who have already taken HK by storm with dumplings using fresh prawns and the Japanesecaviar, pig’s trotter dip with crispy toast, mini their more casual and low-key dining concepts 22 dried sakura prawns, whole suckling Ibericoveal burgers and foie-gras creme brulee. For Ships and Ham & Sherry, on Wanchai’s Ship Street. pig, and stir-fried ramen a la Shanghainese. Thestarters, try the mushroom soup with beaufort Aberdeen Street Social signifies the celebrity dessert of almond bun is like a refined version ofcubes that melt as the hot soup is poured, and chef’s first foray into local fine dining. The ground the Japanese melon bun (or Chinese pineapplethe 63 degree egg, with sauteed mushroom, crab floor bar offers a terrace and an alternative simple bun), filled with delicately-flavoured almondmeat, bellota ham and brioche. The succulent menu. Space is intimate for fine dining upstairs. milk paste. Wines by the glass include a Grisroasted half chicken, served with truffle jus is a Highly recommended starters include slow-cooked de Koshu by Grace Winery, Yamanashi Prefecture,signature dish and if you are a pasta maniac, do hen’s egg with black pudding, crispy pig’s ear and Japan and a Junmai Daiginjo. The wine list is extensivenot miss the artichoke macaroni or the mushroom pickled king oyster mushrooms, CLT (crabmeat, and includes some pricey items such as 1978tagliatelle, served with 63 degree egg, cheese and lettuce and lightly soused tomatoes), beetroot- Romanee-Conti at $HK290,000 ($A43,000 )and a 1961Parma ham! For me, the highlight is always the cured salmon with salt-baked beetroot and creme Chateau Petrus at $HK190,000, $28,000! Definitelycheese selected by Jeremy Evrard, the general fraiche and roasted quail breast and leg, sauteed wor th the schlep. 5/F, The Harbour frontmanager and “cheeseman” (he was previously at foie gras, peach and Chinese almonds. For mains, Landmark, 11 Wan Hoi Street, Hung Hom. PhoneMichelin-starred Caprice at HK’s Four Seasons try braised ox-cheek with roasted bone marrow, +852 3746 2788.Hotel). Evrard’s intimate knowledge of cheese and sourdough crumb and horseradish mash, or the Looking for an alternative to the usual team- building dinner in town? I highly recommend the collaborative space at Umami Concepts. Located in a charming and historic colonial low-rise, Umami Concepts provides a spacious culinary workshop, dining and sitting area, where guests can learn to cook together. Whatever culinary theme you desire, chef Nolan Ledarney will help you plan and make sure that you and your guests get the most of the collaborative experience and none of the stress. Formerly the executive chef at the Canadian embassy in Beijing and Tokyo, followed by a short stint at Michelin-starred L’Osier in Tokyo, Ledarney and his team bring together a unique set of experiences to help shape your evening. With free corkage, guests can indulge in the experience of high quality wine glasses, all sponsored by Zalto. If cooking is not your thing, the space is also available for other collaborative experiences. By appointment only, 35 Bonham Rd, Mid Levels, HK; [email protected]; www.umamicollaborative.com. Left: Upper Modern Bistro Interior. 49 Annual 2015 W I N E S TAT E

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KING On Friday nights Ryan’s Bar is jumping. Located Mediterranean interpretation. As is the grass-fed roast shoulder of Pyrenees lamb, black olive, in the piazza of Australia Square, it’s an all- Scotch fillet with rocket and lemon. McMahon roast tomato, spring peas and fondant potato and season, after work venue for the CBD’s young was the complete hostess during our visit and Dutton Park whole duck glazed with lavender and corporates in search of a snack, wine or a her swish and efficient service clearly showed star anise, rhubarb and celery heart. Vine Double schooner and plentiful eye candy. Many of whom the hallmarks of her time at Justin Hemmes major Bay, 2 Short St, Double Bay; phone (02) 9363 0010. start to feel the pangs of hunger around 8.30pm venues - The Ivy and Hemmesphere. With just and try to grab a table for a more substantial feed the right amount of insistence, she recommended Pei Modern in Melbourne opened its doors in at cheek-by-jowl neighbour - The Lemon Tree. Ilaria’s ricotta cake for dessert. Like Goldilocks’ 2012 and won The Age Best New Restaurant They have to be lucky, though, because smarter final porridge choice, it was just right in terms Award for 2013. Few were surprised with such folk have already booked ahead. A smash hit of sweetness, rich short crust pastry and size. instant success for super chef Mark Best’s since its opening week in early October, the stylish But if you are in the mood for something richer, “bistronomie” diffusion label. The Pei Modern crescent-shaped eatery comes with an iron-clad Maria’s tiramisu hits a deeper sweet spot. The Sydney outpost replaces The Woods restaurant pedigree. The latest venture of one of Sydney’s Lemon Tree’s mission statement is to offer “a in the Four Seasons Hotel and benefits from the hottest hospitality trios - Tim Holmes a Court and little taste of Positano in the midst of an urban relocation of its Melbourne sibling’s founding chef - Daimon Downey of Double Bay’s Pelicano Bar jungle”. Goal achieved with all the casual Matt Germanchis - and consummate maitre d’ and Kate McMahon of Rose Bay stalwart Catalina simplicity Italian restaurants are famed for but Ainslie Lubbock. The menu changes daily but - its promise is irresistible, great Italian food in often fail to deliver. A top choice for lunch and rave review listings such as sauternes custard with the heart of the city. Chef Peter Streckfuss, who dinner Monday to Friday only. At the weekend, crostini have made the move north. Fingers crossed manned the ranges at Catalina for four years, tourists will have to miss out. The Lemon Tree, the house made lamb sausage, spinach and onion earned his chops at Jones the Grocer and has piazza of Australia Squ (corner Pitt and Bond rings and duck breast, boudin noir and nashi his work cut out for him operating in The Lemon streets), CBD; phone (02) 9241 1685. become as popular with Sydney diners, too. The Tree’s tiny kitchen. But the versatile maestro has wood-fired oven and grill will also be put to good dealt with tougher conditions such as baking Double Bay has undergone an exciting dining use says Best. Another popular Melbourne MO, bread in a Jamaican homeless shelter during a re-birth over the past year. Vine Double Bay the Eat! Pei! Quick! express deal of two courses three-year trip around the world, before finishing fills the site vacated by Zigolini’s in Short St and for a mere $35 is aimed at Sydney’s corporate off with an intense immersion in the regional has become a major draw for wine and beer lunch crowd who fancy food described as “primal cooking of Italy. Interior designer Tamsin Johnson aficionados. This isn’t a squeezing room only modern”. Make mine cured kingfish and fennel has created a southern Italian backdrop to match locale; there’s room for 235 people in search of and wood grilled rump and kipfler potatoes. Pei the food - a pink terrazzo bar, linen banquette thirst-quenching brews such as Deus Brut Des Modern, Four Seasons Hotel, 199 George St, City; seating and custom-made tiles from the Amalfi Flandres champagne style, Bellerose Blonde and phone (02) 9250 3160. coast. There’s Peroni beer on tap, Mumm and Cricketer’s Arms Indian Pale Ale. The precisely Louis Roederer Cristal are the house champagnes numbered wine list - 50 bottlings - focuses on Above: The Lemon Tree Exterior and desserts (below). and the wide-ranging wine list is anchored by 10 boutique labels from all over the world, including Italian wines, including Mito Soave and an equal a good percentage of biodynamic and organic number of reds such as La Mura Nero D’Avola styles. We’re talking conversation starter drops from Sicily. If you want to drop by at the 120-seat such as Dveri Pax pinot gris from Slovenia, 2013 space for the Italian-inspired cocktails such as The Super Natural sauvignon blanc from Hawke’s The Lemon Tree Martini or a straight Campari, Bay and the disarmingly named 2012 Von Winning there are moreish nibbles such as antipasti, “Win-Win” riesling from the Palatinate. Owners Sydney rock oysters and Tuscan lamb cutlet. Gavin Douchkov and Manny Karson have had The primi and secondi piatti selections are tightly the smarts to hire Sydney hospitality identity Mikee edited - four listings each. I started with one of Collins as GM and chef Drew Bolton. Dishes to the best insalata capreses I have enjoyed in develop a craving for include smoked pork jowl years - fresh burrata mozzarella and vine-ripened and crackling with parsnip and cumquat, slow tomatoes. My fellow diner tucked into a spaghetti e vongole - heavy with salty fresh clams. Other diners chose superbly cooked “mama comfort food” such as tagliatelle al ragu, lasagna and linguine sciue sciue - with mozzarella, basil leaves and tomatoes. I much prefer white polenta to the yellow type - it’s creamier, softer and doesn’t sit on your stomach for hours. Streckfuss has contrasted silky white polenta spiked with rosemary with portobello mushrooms, taleggio cheese and roasted garlic for a gourmet vegetarian main. The Cone Bay barramundi with fennel, blood orange and parsley is an edgy take on the classic50 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2015