Winestate Magazine September October 2014

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S Y R A H & S H I R A ZE GUIGAL EX VOTO ERMITAGE SHIRAZ 2010but once again there is no real rule about it.” Les Murets, a patch of Alpine glacial river Louis Grippat and of de Vallouit, both in that One of the things that makes Hermitage origin stones and clay. year, brought some of these highly prized parcels under the Guigal aegis.special are the parcels, or climats, with their Philippe sums up their contribution to thesignificantly different soils, into which the wine, saying, “Les Bessards because of “For the first time, in 2001, we were ablehill is divided. Generally, there is granite in the granite produces a big, structured and to vinify wines from our own estate [inthe west part with micaschist and gneiss; framed wine; L’Hermite is more flexible, Hermitage],” says Philippe. “The qualityalluvial terraces and glacial deposits and working for both white and red grapes, of these wines was so outstanding thatloess in the east. and the reds always show good minerals; we didn’t have the courage to blend them Les Greffieux with small pebbles produces into our classic Hermitage, made from The names of these parcels are to be rich and concentrated wines, whereas Les purchased grapes and purchased wines.conjured with, including L’Hermite, where Murets brings an interesting finesse and This is how the Ex Voto was born!” As itthe famed La Chapelle is situated, and delicacy to the blend”. happens, fruit does sometimes make itsadjacent Les Bessards. Greffieux is at the way into the classic Hermitage, as Ex Votobottom of the south-facing slope (separated In addition, the Guigal parcels have a is made only in the very best years. Sofrom L’Hermite by another famous parcel, high proportion of old vines, some up to far: 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009Le Meal), with Les Murets around to the 90 years. “I believe that old vines have and 2010.east, a little. Ex Voto, made solely from the unique capacity to produce wines withsyrah, comes from these parcels. a lot of dry extract,” says Philippe. “The As to the particular qualities of the 2010 power and the body of the Ermitage Ex vintage, Philippe describes it as “an The granite soils of Les Bessards make Voto is linked to its nature and its age.” In outstanding vintage in France in generalup 30 per cent of the blend. Such granite- terms of bottle ageing capacity, 30 to 40 and in the Rhone in particular. It has noblederived fruit typically forms the backbone years is cited. tannins, long ageing potential wines andof an Hermitage blend. Another 30 per cent a nice structure – a textbook example ofcomes from the brown limestone-derived The name Ex Voto derives from the Latin, what an outstanding northern Rhone winesoils of Greffieux, with 20 per cent each meaning a promise, or offering, made to can be.” Just 775 cases of Ex Voto 2010coming from L’Hermite, which can bring the gods. It was first made in 2001. The were made.freshness and fragrance to syrah fruit, and purchase by Guigal of the estates of Jean- September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 51

3RDplaceELEGANT ESSENCE OF THEBAROSSASHIFT TO A SINGLE FOCUS KEEPS FLAGSHIP FLYINGWe set out to create the ultimate wine to expressthe very essence of Barossa Valley shiraz.DAN TRAUCKI This vineyard on the floor of the valley slopes down towards the North ParaTHE WOLF Blass Platinum Label was River, giving it a unique micro-climatecreated to produce a contemporary- which has resulted in a long-standingstyled wine showcasing shiraz’s reputation for growing superb-qualityfantastic attributes. It was launched shiraz. Originally a Tolleys vineyard, itwith the 1998 vintage, which went on to was purchased by Wolf Blass Wines inbe judged the best shiraz/syrah in the 1995 and replanted with great attentionworld at the 2002 International Wine & to detail and much TLC. The fruit isSpirits Challenge. described as having the intensity, finesse and structure required for a Since then this wine has been turning flagship wine.heads and delighting palates. Over theyears it has amassed an impressive One feature that makes this wine standtrack record, including having the 2006 out from most of its peers is that it isvintage voted the runner-up in the matured only in French barriques, unlikeWinestate 2011 Wine of the Year contest. most other top-end shiraz, which areAnd now the 2010 vintage has been matured in American oak. French oak isrewarded with third place in Winestate’s more subtle than American oak – which2014 World’s Greatest Shiraz challenge. can be a bit overpowering until it settles down over time – and therefore the wine Initially this wine was made from is more approachable in its youth. Theparcels of shiraz grapes sourced from a wine is matured in the barriques fornumber of vineyards across the Barossa. around 20 months before bottling.However, since the 2008 vintage it hasbeen a single-vineyard wine, with all the The wine itself has an enormousgrapes being sourced from the Medlands generosity and power, with intenseVineyard at Dorrien in the Barossa Valley. aromas of dark berry fruits, chocolate52 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S Y R A H & S H I R A ZWOLF BLASS MEDLANDS VINEYARD PLATINUM SHIRAZ 2010and fresh coffee. Its flavours are rich, wine scene back in the 1970s by Vineyard Platinum Label Barossa Shiraz,powerful, opulent and silky-smooth, winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy at was voted Winestate’s 2013 Wine of with a beautiful balance and elegance. the Melbourne Wine Show three years the Year.It has lovely fine-grained tannins and a in a row (1974, 1975 and 1976). Theremarkably long finish which leaves the company’s reputation was built on At the presentation, Winestate Publisherpalate crying out for more of this nectar. the Black Label, which was a blend of Peter Simic said, “As a finalist from over varieties as well as regions including 11,000 wines judged this year, where When the Platinum label became a Langhorne Creek (which almost nobody less than five per cent of wines enteredsingle-vineyard wine with the 2008 had heard of at the time). reached the finalist stage, and withvintage, it was a “back to the future” undoubtedly the toughest peer-reviewedmoment for Wolf Blass Wines. Until then In addition to this, the wines were blind judging in Australia or NZ, anytheir flagship wine, Black Label, had consumer-friendly in that they were Winestate medal is truly deserved”.always been multi-variety/multi-area, ready to drink when released, at a timeand now they were shifting to their new where almost all Australian premium However, the last words on thisflagship wine, not only single varietal but red wines needed a reasonable spell awesome wine belong to Chris Hatcher,also single vineyard – the very things that in the cellar before they softened off the chief winemaker at Wolf Blass,Wolf had railed against in his early days. enough to be considered consumer- who explains the concept behind theirGiven the wine’s track record, the move friendly. Incidentally, the 1998 vintage flagship label: “Platinum Label Shirazhas certainly paid off. of the Wolf Blass Black Label won the was created 16 years ago to honour Jimmy Watson Trophy, making it the Australia’s most iconic grape variety, Wolfgang Blass arrived in Australia Label’s fourth win – a feat which has shiraz, as well as the region we call ouras a qualified winemaker in 1961 on a not been achieved by any other winery home, the Barossa Valley. We set out tothree-year contract with Kaiser Stuhl. to this day. create the ultimate wine to express theBy 1966 he had started Wolf Blass very essence of Barossa Valley shiraz.”Wines and was causing a bit of a stir Last year the Platinum Label addedby doing things differently to the wine yet another accolade to its remarkably The label’s accolade tally to date, alongestablishment of the day. Wolf Blass successful resume, when the current with its popularity, demonstrates thatWines exploded onto the Australian release, 2010 Wolf Blass Medlands they have well and truly succeeded in their quest. September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 53

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDSTHE STATS under $10 $10-$15 $15-$20 that count Cock & Bull Shiraz 2013 Wolf Blass Red Label SE Taylors Clare Valley ShirazNUMBER TASTED: 503 HHH1/2 $4.75 Australia Shiraz Grenache 2013 2013 HHHH $19 HHHH $14NUMBER AWARDED: 322% awarded: 64.0%NUMBER FIVE STARS (Gold Award): 21% awarded 4.2%NUMBER FOUR & HALF STARS (High Silver Award): 58% awarded: 11.5%NUMBER FOUR STARS (Silver Award): 70% awarded: 13.2%NUMBER THREE & HALF STARS (High Bronze Award): 66% awarded: 13.1%NUMBER THREE STARS(Bronze Award): 107% awarded: 21.3%$30-$35 $35-$50 $50-$75 $ 7 5 - $ 10 0Mockingbird Hill Reserve Saltram Mamre Brook Barossa Grampians Estate St Ethels Grant Burge The VigneronClare Valley Shiraz 2012 Shiraz 2012 HHHHH $40 Grampians Shiraz 2010 1887 Barossa Valley ShirazHHHHH $30.99 HHHHH $50 2012 HHHHH $7554 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & S H I R A Z$20-$25 $25-$30 Chardonnay to Chengdu?Sanguine Progeny Heathcote Gumpara Victors Old Vine Vintage toShiraz 2013 HHHH 1/2 $24.99 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 Vegas? HHHH1/2 $25 Merlot to Melbourne? Shiraz to Shanghai? Bulk tanks to Boston? Your wine delivered to any destination on time$ 10 0 - $ 2 0 0 $200+ www.mainfreight.comBird in Hand Nest Egg E Guigal Ex Voto ErmitageAdelaide Hills Shiraz 2010 Syrah 2010 HHHHH $740HHHHH $129 world’s greatest Syrah & Shiraz CHALLENGE VIII STARTS PAGE 86.

Events at Hyatt For smaller gatherings, Gershwin’s art work by Artbank. This space is provides an intimate atmosphere with promoted as an alternative venue forWith its vast selection of event space and the ability to use all three venues’ cocktail and canapé events or small toworthy reputation for fantastic food and available. Freshwater Bay Room and medium corporate lunches and dinnerssuperior service, Hyatt Regency Perth Trader’s Lounge are popular venues in a relaxed and informal atmosphere.is the preferred choice for corporate for their ability to cater for events of The refreshed rooftop poolside areafunctions, weddings and gala balls. different styles whether small meetings is another great alternative for guests or larger social gatherings. who wish to make the most of Perth’sLocated nearby the beautiful Swan sunshine and host their event outdoors.River, Hyatt Regency Perth offers a The hotel’s conference facilities includetotal of 16 event spaces including the Crawley Boardroom, Mounts Bay Hyatt Regency Perth has on-siteiconic Grand Ballroom which features a Boardroom Matilda Bay Room, Mosman audio-visual and staging partner,dramatic six metre pillar-free ceiling and Bay Room, Regency Boardroom and Corporate Theatre, famous for creatingtwo separate foyers for pre-event drinks Swan Boardroom. These are prepared outstanding corporate events and highand canapés. with Nespresso coffee making facilities impact presentations. Whether audio and feature 55” Plasma screens. The visual, staging or creative services arePlaza Ballroom and Terrace Ballroom number of boardrooms that Hyatt required for a conference, an awardsalso offer superior surroundings with the Regency Perth offers means that a night, gala dinner or annual generalconvenience of separate access from number of conferences and events can meeting, Hyatt Regency Perth’sthe main lobby of the hotel. Both have be held simultaneously. professionalism along with Corporatenatural light and the ability for numerous Theatre’s creative flair will help makeroom set-ups from banquet, cabaret, Unique to the hotel is the mezzanine any event an outstanding success.cocktail, theatre style or a dinner / on Level One which displays a largedance set up. collection of contemporary Australian

experience the HYATT touchServing up the Best “Even with large events in the Grand Thinking about your Ballroom, we ensure each dish is to the Christmas Event?In addition to the hotel’s fantastic facilities same quality the guest would receive inis the award winning food and beverage a restaurant – the food is served fresh, Make your Christmas event forwhich is provided at events and meetings. the ingredients are tasty and innovative 2014 one to remember at Hyatt and the presentation is immaculate,” Regency Perth. Call the dedicatedFor Hyatt Regency Perth, excellence he said. Event Planning team to find outin food and beverage is a key how they can help. Call 92251221element in providing guests with a In addition to the cuisine, there is an or email [email protected] experience. extensive selection of wine, much of For general information on Hyatt which is from Western Australia. Regency Perth visit:With a number of event menu optionsavailable, guests are able to enjoy General Manager, Adam Myott, said perth.regency.hyatt.comcreative cuisine prepared with fresh, the hotel is proud to promote the local or call 9225 1234seasonal produce. This approach is all wine industry. facebook.com/perth.regency.hyattpart of Hyatt’s global philosophy, Food:Thoughtfully Sourced, Carefully Served, “Supporting the Western Australianan initiative rolled out in 2012. wine industry has always been part of the culture for the hotel,” he said.Hyatt Regency Perth’s team of chefs ismade up of individuals from all over the “Those local to Perth enjoy seeingglobe and together they continuously these wines on our menus at events.create new dishes and update the And those who are visiting us forbanquet menus with innovative a short while are pleased to havechanges, taking into consideration the opportunity to try somethingmulti-cultural tastes, dietary synonymous with Western Australia.”requirements and themes. He adds that the hotel enjoys beingExecutive Chef, Mark Sainsbury, says involved in a number of fantastic winea fundamental part of Hyatt Regency events such as The Qantas WinePerth’s success in food and beverage, is Show Top 50 Tasting, and the Qantashaving the ability to produce beautifully Wine Show Awards Dinner, both ofpresented and a high standard of food, which have been hosted by the hotelon a large scale for any event. for 8 years.Phone: 08 9225 1234 - Email: [email protected] - www.perth.regency.hyatt.com - facebook.com/perth.regency.hyatt

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELIndooroopilly in Brisbane’s west is established open kitchen lavishly equipped and the defunct Ortiga, also of Fortitude Valley. and leafy, well-heeled and heavily populated envy of chefs about town. Salt cod brandada is stuffed into little redand, until recently, was almost devoid ofrestaurants, save for the odd cafe. Enter It’s the brainchild of TJ Peabody, whose piquillo peppers, lamb belly is slow-cookedIndooroopilly Shopping Centre or, rather, family own the prestigious Craggy Range and then finished to a crispy outer andthe massive makeover and expansion of Vineyard in the North Island of New served with ajo blanco and roasted grapes,what was already a thriving retail complex Zealand. Previously involved in the family and pork cheek and morcilla is garnishedthat recently reopened with one end of the business, TJ and his wife Kim decided with pancetta and cauliflower. centre devoted to quality food outlets. There to bring a touch of the East Coast toare a couple of food courts within the centre Brisbane’s western suburbs. Seasoned pro There’s also a great range of salads, whichbut now the Station Rd side of the shopping Paul McGivern (ex-Manx and E’cco Bistro) perfectly suit the warm climate but are alsobehemoth is home to three sizeable and runs the 200-seater, keeping tables content hearty enough to make a meal in themselves.quality establishments, two of which have and the place humming along nicely. Potato and chorizo with egg, olive and beanssister restaurants elsewhere in Brisbane. is a classic, as is the pickled beetroot with It’s open early for hearty breakfasts; goat’s cheese and chard, finished with The first to open is Nantucket Kitchen brunch is offered, as is ‘linner’, a limited toasted hazelnuts. Shop R2, 322 Moggill Rd,and Bar, a gently American-themed menu that runs between lunch and dinner. Indooroopilly; phone (07) 3378 4863.restaurant with a menu designed around There’s always a pie a la mode, a sablethe custom made charcoal oven. ice cream sandwich and ice cream cones The Mero is the latest to open, offering served in trees with a variety of flavours. a ‘menu-du-jour’ of small and larger bites Beginning with a wide range of ‘snacks’ followed by shared plates and boards withthat include popular choices like sizzling M5, Indooroopilly Shopping Centre, Station interesting side dishes to mix and match. potted prawns, warm spinach, artichoke Rd, Indooroopilly; phone (07) 3878 9697.and cheese dip, onion rings with house- The pizza section gets quite a workout, asmade chipotle barbecue sauce and pork Next door to Nantucket is Harajuku do the share plates at night, when groupssliders on brioche with crumbled blue Gyoza, which also has a popular location in get together for steaming bowls of ‘fregolacheese, the menu meanders through Fortitude Valley. In this casual and friendly sarda’ (Sardinian seafood stew) or roastedmoreish-sounding starters like crab place, expect a hearty welcome bellowed porchetta wth kipflers, pear and vincotto.cakes, clam chowder and half avocado by the entire bandanna-clad crew who Shop R1, 322 Moggill Rd, Indooroopilly;bowl with cannellini bean and pine whizz around the place with giant tankards phone (07) 3378 5958.nut salad vinaigrette. Mains include of Japanese beer and plates of dumplings.delicious, charry spatchcock roasted in Phone (07) 3378 4863. The Mero is another venue for thethe charcoal oven and Moreton Bay bugs Moubarak Group, which owns a slew of(pictured) served with a tangy and rich Ole Fuego is the next temptation, proudly restaurants and bars around town. Forchampagne bisque. Spanish and specialising in paella for two or the past decade, Lychee Lounge and more. The tapas and raciones are plentiful Laruche have been the group’s popular Divided into three sections, the rooms look and beautifully constructed and it’s no bars but the jewel in their crown ismore like someone’s palatial beach house wonder as the kitchen is in the capable Gerard’s Bistro on James St in Fortitudethan a fully functioning restaurant with an hands of Nevan Vanderzee, who was sous Valley, which won Restaurant of the Year at chef under the formidable Pablo Tordesillas the 2014 Good Food Guide awards. Chef at the multi-award-winning but now sadly Ben Williamson knows a thing or two about modern Middle Eastern cooking, having spent five years in Bahrain cooking for first-class passengers on Gulf Air. Recently the group opened Gerard’s Bar across the road from the bistro; it runs as a separate entity with exquisite offerings of green eggs and candied bacon served in their shells, an extensive range of charcuterie served with warm organic baguettes from neighbouring Jocelyn’s Provisions, and a range of house-made pickles. The wine list is clipped and clever, nicely suited to the pared-back menu, and everything about the place oozes cool. Shop 13A, 23 James St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3252 2606. Left: Nantucket Kitchen & Bar’s Moreton Bay bugs with champagne bisque.58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

melbournegrapevine Hilary McnevinAfter the fire razed the iconic Stokehouse oysters, pork shoulder rillettes, fish and Louis, who most recently spent sixrestaurant in St Kilda in January this year, chips and chilli dogs are just some of the years at Grossi Florentino, has adaptedThe Van Haandel Group has kept up the dishes that dot the all-day menu. his traditional training to produce somemomentum by opening a pop-up on the authentic, thoughtfully executed soulsite on Jacka Boulevard from February to The wine list is testament to the group food flourishes in fried chicken andMay and have now opened Stokehouse and its head sommelier Lincoln Riley. waffles, cornbread and mac’n cheese,City. The striking restaurant in what was Quirky boutique drops sit aside classic but there are other dishes that “are ourComme, also owned by the group, is in wines and the beers include interesting interpretation of soul food”, says Michael,Alfred Place, that runs between Little craft beers from around the world. The such as Tongue & Cheek – veal, grilledCollins and Collins Streets. Stokehouse in St Kilda is expected to tongue, braised cheek, mussels with okra, reopen in 2015; in the meantime, we have bacon and coriander and oxtail sliders. The restaurant interior has been revamped Stokehouse City, which is a slice of urbanby award-winning designer, Pascale respite. 7 Alfred Place, Melbourne; phone The room is finished with blondwoodGomes-McNabb, whose work can also be (03) 9525 5555. tables and chairs, images of ’70s andseen in Cutler & Co in Fitzroy, Cumulus Inc ’80s African-American TV and musicin the city and 400 Gradi’s neighbouring Soundproofed walls were part of the icons such as Fat Albert, the cast of Goodbar in Brunswick. Pascale has given the brief for the interior design of Mr Big Stuff, Times and Billy Ocean, and the drinks listspace in the upstairs dining room a breezy, the new venue on Meyers Place in the is a quirky mix of cocktails and boutiquestylish feel that hints at the former seaside city where the defunct Senoritas formerly wines and beers from here and overseas.location of the original building (it’s currently stood. The soul food venue opened in late Mr Big Stuff is open Tuesday to Sundaybeing rebuilt). There are gentle neutrals, May and as music is an important part of from 6pm. 16 Meyers Place, Melbourne;mirrors, sea nets dressing chandeliers and the equation – the place is named after the phone (03) 9639 7411.a lightness that is immediately inviting. The song by Jean Knight released in 1971 andmenu supports this elegance, with dishes DJs play the background music Thursday If you’re walking through Melbourne’ssuch as slow-cooked egg, grains and to Saturday nights – soundproofing was CBD, there’s a new pop-up on the cornersprouts with artichokes and onion puree; considered necessary. of Collins and Exhibition Streets that hasJurassic quail saltimbocca, pumpkin certainly made a splash with the workingseed and farro risotto, roast celeriac and Mr Big Stuff is owned by five friends, crowd and visitors to the city alike.a selection of steaks including 1kg of New Adam Ong and Michael Chen, who also Salvatore Malatesta of St Ali, JimmySouth Wales Ranger’s Valley grain-fed own the bar Golden Monkey on Lonsdale Grants’ George Calombaris and Kong’sAngus beef rib-eye as a dish to share. St, Lazaros Papasavas, Hasan Sharif Chris Lucas have joined forces to create and Andrew Montell. Adam, Michael and Rue & Co. This is in a courtyard by Nauru Downstairs uses darker woods with a Lazaros run the day-to-day operations House, which is tagged for redevelopmentmore relaxed feel, centred around the bar of the 50-seater and they employed in 2015, and the developers decided toand a more flexible menu: freshly shucked Parisian-born chef Louis Naepels to bring some edible attention to the square head up the kitchen. while the plans are drawn up. Thus, Rue & Co has been opened serving street food by Kong – lots of kimchi and Korean barbecue dishes – and Jimmy Grant’s, where you can choose a lamb or prawn souvlaki, among other treats. St Ali is on hand creating specialty coffee, and all three outlets are serving their wares from converted shipping containers side by side, overlooking an expanse of artificial turf with seating for about 40. Sunny days see customers sitting on the ground, enjoying the souvas and grain salad, roti rolls and fried chicken wings and good coffee. It’s creating a cool dining hub in the city and is open from breakfast through to dinner seven days a week. 80 Collins St, Melbourne; www.facebook.com/RueandCo. Above: Stokehouse interior. Photo credit James Geer. September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 59

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGThe Hotel Centennial first glammed up To be honest, I didn’t have room for dessert, carpaccio with zucchini flower, grapefruitabout 15 years ago to match its Woollahra an omission that was rectified the following and chilli. It’s even harder to choose from thelocation. So to describe its latest re-fit week. One of the most popular options at the main listings because the edited ‘magnificentas yet another pub makeover is way off Centennial is the High Table, which operates seven’ were all borderline irresistible. I wentthe mark. But the new interior by award- from Mondays to Wednesdays. For $24, for the potato and truffle gnocchi with peas,winning design group Luchetti Frelle totally you get a dish of the day such as perfectly asparagus and pecorino but I will be headingoutshines its predecessor from the custom- cooked brisket and mash with Korean back for the wagyu beef and ale pie withmade furniture and antiques to the striking vegetables. An extra $10 is the charge for garlic mash, char-grilled spatchcock andcollection of art photography lining the walls. the night’s sweet – in my case a feather-light fresh spaghetti marinara.The aim was to create the welcoming feel raspberry millefeuille.of the surrounding multimillion-dollar homes It was a chilly night so sticky toffee puddingof the area and it’s been fulfilled. From the Owners Halcyon Hotels, who also operate with butterscotch clotted cream got the nodfirst week, locals have been packing out the Woolwich Pier Hotel, have created a after a tussle with the chocolate, strawberrythe restaurants and bars and high-profile destination restaurant for Woollahra in the and salted peanut sundae smash. If you’reSydneysiders have followed suit. image of Europe’s gastro-pubs. The superbly just after a light meal, the downstairs part edited wine list includes hand-picked bottlings of the pub offers casual booth-style seating The major drawcard is executive chef from Europe and South America, in addition and a bar menu which contains many of theJustin North in his first venture since the to Australian and Kiwi wines, from aromatic, upstairs favourites and more down-to-earthdemise of his restaurants in Westfield CBD lifted whites to cold, brash reds. A must-go. 88 listings such as buttered fish fillets, mushyand the Opera House forecourt. Media Oxford St, Woollahra; (02) 9362 3838. peas and chipotle aioli. There’s a pizza menumade much of regurgitating the story but too, craft beers and a great wine by the glassin the end Justin’s fans proved how much The village part of Erskineville has long selection. 106-108 Swanson St, Erskineville;they wanted to enjoy the cooking of one been a foodie hot-spot but the eat strip (02) 9519 3609.of the country’s top chefs again. There’s has been creeping along Swanson St fornone of the French haute cuisine which the past couple of years. Locals still walk The Sugarcane in Surry Hills has also haddistinguished his menus at Becasse. Justin their dogs in Harry Noble Park opposite a refurb. Head chef and owner Milan Strbacand his team, including the talented Tom the former Kurrajong Hotel. And they (ex-Marque and Longrain) first opened theDeadman, are dishing up the sort of modern still drop by under the new name of the doors in 2008 and has been honing his South-comfort food today’s foodies crave no matter premises – The Swanson Hotel – to enjoy East Asian cuisine cred ever since. The newhow upmarket the setting. much classier food and higher-quality interior is a stunning blend of silk handbags wines by the glass. hanging from the ceiling, neon-bright graffiti We kicked off with two starter dishes – and Thai street posters. The rejigged menudevilled crab, butter leaf and melon and Following a multimillion-dollar revamp by is as perky and lively as its predecessor, fromsardine and tomato tarts – to enjoy with a the Balmain Pub Group, who also operate the fried eggs, black vinegar and caramelDeviation Road Pinot Gris as we perused the the Riverview Hotel in Birchgrove and the through the Milly Hill lamb ribs and chilli jammenu. The comfort food tag isn’t a code word Balmain Hotel, the Swanson now reflects and khaosoi with prawn, crispy egg noodles.for Anglo-only and entrees included pork belly Erskineville’s status as an inner-city suburb With a name like Sugarcane, a dessert suchwith slow-cooked octopus, white radish and with a median house price above $1 million. as banana roll with condensed milk ice-orange blossom miso, salad of grilled tiger Brad Sloane, 2013 Pub Chef of the Year, cream is almost mandatory. 40-42 Reservoirprawns, green tomato and lemon balm salsa, collated the menu and it shows. For the first St, Surry Hills; (02) 9281 1788.pomelo and sorrel and aromatic wood roasted time ever there’s an upstairs dining roomvegetables, cardamom and goat’s curd. and if you entered the premises wearing a Above: The Centennial Hotel serves mouth-watering blindfold it would be impossible to guess waffles. At Etch, Justin’s former restaurant in the you were in a pub.Intercontinental Hotel, I always ordered thebattered local fish and fries because the The colonial British West Indies-inspiredstandard never wavered from perfection. decor is glossy magazine standard, completeThe Classics, Grill and Wood Fired section with bright Timorous Beasties wallpaper,of the menu offers similarly simple but top- a hand-made marble bar and two-metrenotch dishes, from the shank and shoulder feature fireplace. Most of the diners in theshepherd’s pie to the 400-day grain-fed 80-seat space wisely chose to begin withRangers Valley pave steak and frites with the appetiser plate – salt cod croquettesGascony butter. You have to pre-order the with smoked paprika aioli, spiced squid withfive-hour slow-cooked lamb shoulder for two harissa aioli, field mushroom and pinenutbut the old Scout’s motto – Be Prepared – had arancini and house-marinated mixed olives.plenty of adherents at the surrounding tableson the night we visited. Entrees range from country pork terrine with piccalilli through goat’s cheese fondant, beetroot, pistachio and orange and kingfish60 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

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adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSOne of Adelaide’s newest restaurants, cooked – at $80 a dish to be shared by rather like pan-Asian meets American diner,Jarmer’s Kitchen, has brought back several diners. with the bonus of a clever, well-priced menumemories of one of its most celebrated designed and to some extent implementedrestaurants that closed a decade ago. Chris has overhauled the former Plant 13 by star Thai chef Nu Suandokmai, who wonRestaurateur and chef Chris Jarmer premises at Bowden, which failed to thrive a huge following after his brief appearanceenjoys the symmetry of the fact that his under its previous lessee, giving it a lighter, at Golden Boy. father, acclaimed chef Peter Jarmer, brighter feel with a country-style decor, aopened his restaurant Jarmers in 1984 and very good wine list and plenty of off-street The large, industrial-style dining areaclosed it 20 years later. Now, 10 years on parking within walking distance of the adjoins a mosaic-tiled bar overlookingin 2014, Chris has opened Jarmer’s Kitchen Entertainment Centre. Breakfast and lunch a busy open kitchen where a team ofas homage to his father, and already it’s seven days, dinner Tuesday-Saturday. 18 chefs turns out super-fast dishes suchwinning high praise. Park Tce; phone (08) 8340 1055. as chargrilled chicken with tamarind and pomegranate seeds, crisp barramundi with While Chris has in previous ventures, There’s something of an Italian renaissance lime chilli sauce and prawn dumplings withsuch as Bistro Air, taken a contemporary going on right in the middle of Adelaide’s CBD, red curry sauce and dried shallots, not toapproach to his menus, with signature led by Borsa Pasta Cucina, the first serious forget the “very exciting beef salad”.dishes such as his Asian beef salad, now Italian restaurant in the neighbourhood sincehe’s gone back to his family’s Austrian roots the nearby Pizza e Mozarella, whose twin The menu even provides illustratedwith classic dishes such as an authentic wood ovens have captured the hearts and instructions on how to construct rice paperViennese schnitzel with a proper Austrian stomachs of city diners. rolls with grilled pork and herb salad. It’spotato salad: ”Such a great dish when it’s fun, it’s good, and start the meal with a Gindone properly,” he says. Borsa Pasta Cucina, situated under the Long cocktail of pandan-infused gin. Lunch landmark Black Stump, also known as Tuesday-Friday, dinner Tuesday-Saturday. With Peter helping out in the kitchen, you Grenfell Centre, seems an unlikely location 42 O’Connell St, North Adelaide; phonecan be assured this is the real deal when for a passionate group of Italian chefs (08) 7120 2897.they serve up dishes such as langos – a who believe in cooking everything fromHungarian deep-fried bread – cabbage scratch – right down to having a “weekly Even more spice can be found at Fromrolls or other mid-European favorites which, pig” delivered every Monday to be turned Orient, which quickly set itself apart fromChris says, are “walking out the door”. into daily specials such as loin scallopini on other more mainstream Chinese restaurantsTuesday has a “duck of the day”, while Monday, a shoulder roast on Wednesday in Adelaide with its offering of authenticSaturday features a classic chateaubriand and belly porchetta on Friday. Sichuan cooking, made possible by its– the sort of dish his father would have owner’s connection with restaurants in Fresh, daily-made pasta is one of the Beijing and a Chengdu-born chef. house specialties and the bread is house- made and ultra-crusty, while dried Italian The restrained style of the downstairs pasta makes its way into dishes such section has echoes of a simple traditional as spaghettini with Coffin Bay cockles Chinese teahouse, while the three private or a very authentic spaghetti carbonara dining areas upstairs, furnished with prepared at the table. Everything else antiques, show more glamour. comes from the very public open kitchen. Although presented in a contemporary ‘Borsa’ is the name of the Italian Stock style, the Sichuan offerings have all the Exchange, something the owners thought flavour, spice and heat of the traditional fitting given the restaurant is situated in dishes on which they’re based, such as Adelaide’s original stock exchange district, the shredded spicy beef with five spices and they’ve given it a pleasant trattoria style and Sichuan pepper, or the stir-fried beef with bentwood cafe chairs, red carpeted with green chilli and peppercorn and a floor and exposed ceiling, while opening tastebud-numbing “tingling” sauce. onto the neighbouring plaza and fountains. Two stand-out dishes are shui zhu, Sensibly for a place that clearly focuses sliced fish soaked in chilli and green on its lunchtime business clientele, there’s peppercorn sauce featuring three types a very good list of wines by the glass, of chilli; and a meltingly tender whole pork backed up by a wine list that includes a hock poached in ginger and spring onion good selection of lighter Italian reds. Lunch broth. There’s also an excellent wine list. Monday-Friday, dinner Friday-Saturday. Lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Monday- Shop 1, Plaza Level, 25 Grenfell St; phone Sunday. 125-127-Pirie St, Adelaide; phone (08) 8211 6572. (08) 8232 4020. Meanwhile, at Gin Long Canteen the food Left: Jarmer’s Kitchen Interior. is as fast and breezy as the surroundings,62 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014



w i n e w o r d s L E A N N E D E BOR T O L ID E BOR T O L I W I N E R Y & R E S T A UR A N T Y A RR A V A L L E Y – M A N A G E RSKYE MURTAGHAs far as family business success pick oranges, plums and stuff our faces and showcase these wines through ourstories go, the De Bortoli tale is up there full of figs. We’d also go yabbying along Cellar Door/Cheese Shop/Restaurantwith the best of them. From humble the channel banks near the farm or roller operation. This gives visitors a chancebeginnings in 1928 at its home base skating/boarding around the vats in the to try a good cross-section of wines andof Bilbul in New South Wales’ Riverina winery. Thinking back on it, it was pretty also to understand our philosophy andregion, the De Bortoli presence on cool having a winery as a playground form a connection with our company andAustralia’s winemaking landscape has when you’re a kid! As for when I actually the family.grown to include operations in the Yarra, started working in the business, it sortKing and Hunter Valleys. Today, each of happened through gentle osmosis. What’s the story behind Locale?third generation family member plays a Growing up opposite a winery and with There were just 16 wineries in the Yarrapivotal role in the business. Winemaking it permeating my whole life, there was nois overseen by Managing Director Darren distinction between what was ‘work’ and Valley when my family purchased our firstDe Bortoli and Stephen Webber - Leanne what was ‘other’. As I grew older, I’d work vineyard in 1987 and only three with someDe Bortoli’s winemaker husband. Kevin on the bottling line or in the Cellar Door sort of restaurant operation. BuildingDe Bortoli is Company Viticulturist and Salesroom. Probably more of a hindrance for the new restaurant and cellar doorVictor De Bortoli is Export Director. than a help. Over 25 years later I still commenced in 1989 with it opening inLeanne and Steve also manage the live opposite a winery here in the Yarra early 1990. Today the De Bortoli Winery &company’s Yarra Valley winery together. Valley and again there’s no real distinction Locale Restaurant are one of the premierThe first Yarra Valley vineyard was between what’s ‘work’, ‘other’ and ‘play’. wine and food attractions in the Yarrapurchased by the De Bortoli family in Valley and we’re extremely proud of that.1987, and was ten hectares in size. In During your time in the industry, We’ve won many accolades including the1989, Leanne and Steve were asked to how do feel the cellar door experience 2008 and 2009 Best Tourism Winery in themanage and develop the family’s interests has changed? Qantas Australian Tourism Awards, anin the region - a challenge they’ve well international Sustainability Award in 2011,and truly met. Today the pair oversees The Cellar Door experience has plus numerous awards and trophies fora 180-hectare vineyard, the busy Locale certainly evolved over the last 25 years. our wines. What sets us apart is that we’rerestaurant, Cellar Door Sales and Cheese When Steve and I first started in the still very much a family company thatShop in the Yarra Valley. With Steve’s Yarra Valley, it was enough to have a harks back to our Italian roots of enjoyingfocus on the winery and winemaking, simple Cellar Door, offering wines on food and wine with family and friends,Leanne, who studied Wine Marketing at tasting. Full Stop. However nowadays, something my grandfather started andRoseworthy, manages the Restaurant it’s all about the whole experience which something we continue to believe in toand Cellar Door businesses. She’s also is why over the years we’ve developed this day.highly involved in marketing, product the restaurant, Cheese Shop and eventsdevelopment and is a vocal advocate for like On-The-Vine Cooking Classes, Wine Describe your ideal food/wine matchthe Yarra Valley region. Adventure, Salami Day etc. We set up for Spring. the Cheese room over six years ago toHow were you first introduced to wine? further enhance visitors experience to our Steamed mussels with La Boheme I’ve pretty much spent my whole winery and Cellar Door Sales operation. Rosé. It gives people the opportunity to tastelife involved in the wine business. My well-handled and well-matured cheese, What have been your most rewardinggrandfather, Vittorio De Bortoli started matched with wine and there are a lot successes to date?the family business in Griffith, NSW in more wine choices with cheese than just1928 having bought a small fruit farm red wine! The Cellar Door experience On a personal level it’s raising twoa couple of years earlier and started plays a very important role in exposing beautiful daughters; Kate and Sally.making wine. My father Deen took over our brand to a wide audience. Although Kate has not long finished a Sciencethe business in the 1950s and was active the return from our Cellar Door is quite degree whilst Sally is midway throughin the winery until he sadly passed away small compared to overall sales, it’s an a Commerce Economics degree.in 2003. Since then, my three brothers important showpiece for the company. Professionally, I think Steve and I haveand I have continued to run the company De Bortoli Yarra Valley is the premium done a tremendous job in running theand continue Deen’s vision. Growing up, end of my family’s business. We produce Yarra Valley property for the family and inmy brothers and I would climb olive trees, what we think are some very good wines doing so have helped increase the value of De Bortoli and also the value of Yarra Valley wine and tourism.64 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

What wines are you currently reaching the staff because Steve may tell them to for better’. That pretty much underpinsfor and do you have a favourite varietal? do one thing and then I’ll come along and everything we do. We have had lots of say something different. The advantage new wines coming out of the Yarra Valley At the moment I’m loving our La Boheme of a family business is that although we’re such as Gamay and Nebbiolo (under ourRange; it’s aimed at Bistros and has some beholden to the shareholders (us!) we can Vinoque label) with the newest one beingvery interesting aromatic and quirky think and act for the longer term. Sure, a Pinot Blanc (2013 was our first vintage).blends. There’s an off-dry Riesling (Act we need to be mindful of cash flow and As for updates in the vineyard, over the1), a gorgeous textural dry Rosé (Act 2), operating the business prudently but we’re last few years we’ve moved across to aa refreshing Pinot Gris blend (Act 3) and a able to open ourselves up to innovation and more symbiotic type of farming. We makeShiraz Gamay red blend (Act 4). Also the plan longer-term objectives if we feel it’s the our own compost and compost teas andlabels are very pretty! The other wine I’m right thing to do. It is our name on every feel that it’s important to have an affinityvery partial to is pinot noir; a variety that bottle, and our brand means everything working with nature to produce wines thathas great presence in the Yarra Valley. We to us. We’re very much trying to run a are expressive of where they are grown.make a couple of single vineyard pinots healthy and viable business to pass on to Finally, along with Kate and Sally, thereunder our Riorret label and they happen the next-genners. It’s imperative we run are 11 other 4th generation members atto go so well with food. our vineyards and wineries as sustainably this point in time but only one is actively as possible to pass on a lasting legacy to involved in the business (Darren’s daughterWhat challenges arise from working our children. Anna). My mother, brothers and I havewith family? been setting up a family succession plan What new developments are on the to try and fulfil our needs, the needs of Working with/for your family can be cards for the Yarra Valley operation? the company and the needs of the nextinteresting - likewise working with your generation. It’s been a long, long processspouse. We (Steve and I) share the same Where do I start? Continuing to fine-tune but one that all family companies shouldinterests in what we do and what we would our resources, and ensure we pass a undertake. Steve and I are encouraging ourlike to pass on to the next generation but healthy successful business on to the next daughters to go out and explore the worldthere can be the occasional ‘clash’. I think generation. Our family motto is Semper (be little fish in a big pond).we’ve managed to compromise after 25 Ad Majora which means ‘Always strivingyears of marriage. It’s more difficult for September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 65

SOUTH AUSTRALIA THE WINE STATEOPEN THE DOOR TOPREMIUM WINE



W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 1996 $300 2002 $85  2004 $90 1960 $1,500 Bin 60A WINES 1997 $200 2005 $75 1961 $1,600 1962 $4,000 1998 $260 2003 $65 2006 $70 1962 $1,600 2004 $490  1999 $260 2004 $70 2007 $85 1963 $1,100 2006 $400 2000 $270 2005 $65 2008 $70 1964 $1,100 2001 $290 2006 $70 2009 $75 1965 $550  Stonewell ShirazBASS PHILLIP 2002 $300  Hill of Grace 1966 $900  1990 $90 2003 $200 1980 $250 1967 $600 1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2004 $350 2007 $55 1981 $230 1968 $550  1992 $60 2005 $230 2008 $55 1982 $220 1969 $550 1993 $651990 $75 2006 $250 1983 $220 1970 $400 1994 $551991 $90 2007 Not Released 1984 $210 1971 $720 1995 $551992 $95 2008 Not Released GIACONDA 1985 $280 1972 $400 1996 $70 2009 Not Released Chardonnay 1986 $320 1973 $400 1997 $551993 $80 2010 $200 1990 $110 1987 $220 1974 $450 1998 $801994 $110 2011 Not Released 1988 $300 1975 $400 1999 $751995 $80 2012 $210 1991 $60 1989 $260 1976 $600 2000 $70 1992 $85 1990 $460 Moss Wood 1977 $400 2001 $651996 $110 1993 $90 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1978 $400 2002 $701997 $140 CLONAKILLA 1992 $250 1979 $380 2003 $551998 $140 Shiraz Viognier 1994 $100 1993 $260 1990 $130 1980 $360 2004 $85 1990 $65 1995 $85 1994 $340 1991 $150 1981 $400 2005 $601999 $120 1993 $65 1996 $140 1995 $300 1992 $120 1982 $370 2006 $602000 $120 1994 $85 1996 $460 1993 $100 1983 $440 2007 $552001 $160 1995 $65 1997 $95 1997 $320 1994 $100 1984 $350 2008 $60 1996 $100 1998 $125 1998 $420 1995 $130 1985 $3802002 $145 1997 $130 1999 $120 1999 $380 1996 $120 1986 $520 Basket Press2003 $110 1998 $150 2001 $360 1997 $100 1987 $350 Shiraz2004 $140 1999 $55 2000 $110 2002 $440 1998 $150 1988 $350 2000 $90 2001 $110 2004 $380 1999 $130 1989 $360 1990 $1502005 $80 2001 $130 2002 $160 2005 $370 2000 $110 1990 $540 1991 $1402007 $130 2002 $130 2006 $340 2001 $130  1991 $460 1992 $952008 $85 2003 $120  2004 $190 2002 $90  1992 $360 1993 $75  2004 $120  2005 $120 Armagh Shiraz 2003 $90  1993 $360 1994 $90 2005 $110 1990 $200 2004 $100  1994 $380 1995 $90 2009 $85 2006 $100 2006 $120 1991 $180 2005 $100  1995 $370 1996 $1602010 $90 2007 $160  1992 $120 2006 $65 1996 $500 1997 $952011 $100 2008 $90 2007 $100 1993 $110 2007 $85  1997 $360 1998 $190 2009 $110  2008 $140 1994 $130 2008 $90 1998 $580 1999 $110  2010 $95 2009 Not Released 1995 $130 2009 $85 1999 $400 2000 $90  BINDI 2011 $75 2010 $130 1996 $180 2010 Not Released 2000 $420 2001 $95 Block 5 Pinot Noir 1997 $150 2011 $90 2001 $370 2002 $120 1997 $80 Meshach 1998 $230 2002 $450 2003 $1001998 $95 1990 $100  1999 $130  Mount Mary 2003 $400 2004 $1001999 Not Released 1991 $85 2000 $120 Quintet 2004 $460 2005 $1002000 $150 1992 $80 2001 $140 2005 $420 2006 $110 2001 $120 1993 $70 2002 $190  1990 $150 2006 $510 2007 $95 2002 $110 1994 $90 2004 $140 1991 $120 2007 $420 2008 $952003 $85 1995 $70 2005 $120 1992 $110 2008 $620 2009 $752004 $110  2006 $160 1993 $95  2010 $752005 $140 2007 $95 1994 $110 2006 $100  1996 $90  1995 $100 THREE RIVERS/2007 $120  Chardonnay 1996 $120 Chris Ringland2008 $120  1997 Not Released Art Series 1997 $120  Wines Shiraz2009 $90 1998 $110 1998 $160 1990 $5202010 $95 1999 $90 1990 $60 1999 $130 1991 $6902011 $85  1991 $60 2000 $120 1992 $600 1992 $70 2001 $110 1993 $700 BROKENWOOD Cabernet Merlot 2000 $70 1993 $65 2002 $130  1994 $650 Graveyard Shiraz 1999 $95 2001 $110 1994 $85 2003 $110 1995 $450 1990 $90 2000 $65 2002 $95 1995 $100 2004 $140  1996 $830 1991 $110  2001 $120 2003 $60 1996 $65 2005 $120 1997 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2002 $90  1997 $90 2006 $120  1998 $850 1993 $80 2003 $90 1998 $70 2007 $90  1999 $600 1994 $80 2004 $90 2004 $70 1999 $75 2008 $95 2000 $450 1995 $70 2005 $85 2005 $65 2000 $75 2009 Not Released 2001 $800 1996 $95 2006 $70 2006 $65 2001 $80 2010 $85 2002 $800 1997 $85 2007 $100  2007 Not Released 2002 $75 2003 $500 1998 $110 2008 $90 2008 $85 2003 $80 Bin 95 Grange Bin 707 1999 $90 2009 $90  1951 $46,000 1990 $220 2000 $110  2010 $80 1952 $17,000 1991 $220 2001 $80 Greenock Creek 1953 $14,000 1992 $180 2002 $75 ELDERTON Roennfeldt Rd 1954 $10,000 1993 $180 2003 $80 Command Shiraz Shiraz 1955 $3,800  1994 $200  2004 $80 1990 $120 1956 $14,000  1995 Not Released 2005 $85 1991 Not Released 1995 $280 1957 $12,000 1996 $220 2006 $110  1992 $100 1996 $260 1958 $4,100 1997 $190 2007 $90 1993 $65 1997 $160 1959 $2,000 1998 $260 2008 Not Released 1994 $80 1998 $350 1999 $200 2009 $85 1995 $75 1999 $180 2000 Not ReleasedCLARENDON HILLS 1996 $95 2000 $220 2001 $190 1997 $70 2001 $240 2002 $180 Astralis Shiraz 1998 $95 2002 $300 2003 Not Released 1994 $200 1999 $70 2003 $200 2004 $200 1995 $200  2004 $210 2005 $200 2005 $230 2006 $180 2006 $260 2007 $160 2008 $190 2000 $65 2009 $180 2001 $65 2010 $280 68 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $145 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $1,8001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $4801994 $120 1992 $2701995 $95 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 We go well1997 $90 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 with wine.1998 $150 1996 $2601999 $95 1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $320 Donaldson Walsh (DW) is one2000 $70 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 of South Australia’s leading2001 $100 1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $660 commercial law firms, delivering2002 $150 1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 outstanding service to clients2003 $95 1996 $440 1995 $550 2001 $520 across all commercial sectors.2004 $120 1997 $450  1996 $540 2002 $4502005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 Whatever you sell - products2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 Not Released or services, labour or ideas - we2008 $100 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 can help your business reach2009 $130 2004 $240  2000 $600 2006 $750 a higher level.2010 $120 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2002 $500 Our exceptional knowledge and Rothschild 2003 $600 skills span: 1990 $600 2004 $500  Gaja Barbaresco • Agribusiness 1991 $550  2005 $650 1990 $330 • Commercial Disputes & Insolvency 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 Not Released • Corporate & Commercial 1993 $700  1992 Not Released • Franchising 1994 $340 1993 $210 • International Trade Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1994 $260 • IP & Technology1878 $2,000 1996 $600 de la Romanee 1995 $210 • Property1879 $2,000  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1996 $300 • Self Insurance & Workers1880 $1,000 1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1997 $5501881 $1,000 1999 $600 1991 $1,900 1998 $300 Compensation1882 $1,000 2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1999 $260 • Tax, Trusts & Superannuation1887 $1,000 2001 $450 1993 $2,200  2000 $310 • Wills & Estates1893 $1,000 2002 $480 1994 $1,600  2001 $250 • Wine & Hospitality1899 $1,000 2003 $600 1995 $2,500 2002 Not Released • Workplace Law1901 $650 2004 $550 1996 $2,700 2003 Not Released1908 $550 2005 $1,200  1997 $1,900 2004 $310 Why not profit from our experience?1910 $450  2006 $780 1998 $2,200 2005 Not Released1922 $350 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2007 $240 Call (08) 8410 25551925 $600 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,5001927 $290 Chateau Latour 2001 $2,000 to confidentially discuss your1930 $140  1990 $1,250 2002 $2,800  Tenuta specific needs.1933 $130  1991 $600 2003 $2,800 Dell’Ornellaia1939 $80 1992 $350 2004 $2,500 We’re ready to serve.1944 $70 1993 $440 2005 $4,500 Ornellaia1947 $55 1994 $460 2006 $1,700 1991 $320 1995 $750 2007 $1,200 1992 $105 IMPORTED 1996 $1,100 2008 $2,400 1993 $125 WINES 1997 $460 2009 $5,000 1994 $130 1998 $520 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 2000 $1,600  1997 $250Moet et Chandon 2001 $700 Domaine Armand 1998 $185 Cuvee Dom 2002 $600  Rousseau 1999 $200 Perignon 2003 $1,700  2000 $140 2004 $600 Chambertin 2001 $2601980 $220 2005 $1,300 Clos de Beze 2002 $2801982 $230 2006 $1,100  1990 $950 2003 $1501983 $180 2007 $750  1991 $200 2004 $1501985 $200 2008 $1,100 1992 $220 2005 Not Released1988 $260 1993 $600 2006 $1701990 $380 Chateau Petrus 1994 $500 2007 $2201992 $240 1990 $5,500 1995 $560 2008 $1501993 $260  1991 Not Released 1996 $650 2009 $1901995 $220 1992 $1,300 1997 $2801996 $280 1993 $1,000 1998 $4001998 $260 1994 $2,800  1999 $8001999 $190 1995 $1,900 2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico Kings Chambers2000 $180 1996 $2,400  2001 $460  Gran Reserva 320 King William Street2002 $200 1997 $1,000 2002 $680 Adelaide SA 50002003 $190 1998 $3,600 2003 $600 1990 $560 1999 $1,250 2004 $440  1991 $420 [email protected] 2000 $6,000 2005 $950 1994 $550 2001 $2,300 2006 $600 1995 $420 www.donaldsonwalsh.com.au 2007 Not Released 1996 $360 2009 $1,100 1998 $420 2010 $1,100 1999 $420 2000 $360 2002 $420 2003 $294  September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 69

wine investment & collectingAuction Dates Aruecptioonrts brunello doesn’t enjoy anywhere near the popularity of its nebbiolo-based cousins. LANGTON’S FINE WINE CRACKA WINES AUCTIONS (MAY-JUNE 2014 REPORT, Finally, echoing trends seen in the UK Held weekly every Tuesday by ANDREW GRAHAM) and Europe, we’ve seen an explosion of September 2 interest for prosecco in recent months, September 9 Despite the influx of alternate varieties, even though it isn’t ‘strictly’ bubbles September 16 the ever-increasing popularity of pinot season. While initially the greatest September 23 noir or the quiet yet steady rise of Hunter interest is in the cheaper wines, we’ve September 30 semillon - there are two wine styles that also been encouraged by strong sales October 7 remain perpetually popular. for classic premium prosecco, often at October 14 the expense of equivalent traditional October 21 The first of these is the rich and Australian sparkling wines. October 28 oaky shiraz. Sure spicy, whole bunch fermented, northern Rhone leaning, This winter is going to be a massive Visit www.langtons.com.au for cool climate shiraz is more fashionable period for Cracka with an expansion more information about the special right now - but we continue to see large of the business underway ahead of themed auctions. demand for the old school styles. Wines the spread into SE Asia. Again we are like the Crazy Horse Hunter Shiraz, desperate for great products, particularly STERLING WINE AUCTIONS Dunbern Shiraz or the reds from Charles critically acclaimed Australian red wines. Auctions run every two weeks, Cimicky have all been warmly received, back-to-back, finishing on all achieving seriously strong results in Cracka Wines conduct live unreserved Wednesday evening. our sales channels. wine auctions every day with more than 4,300 wines currently available ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Secondly, the other style that is for auction or to buy now. For more September 2 (closes August 8) resoundingly loved is the ‘rich and information, visit www.crackawines. September 30 (closes September 5) buttery’ chardonnay. Again, the trend com.au or email help@crackawines. October 21 (closes September 26) is towards lean and minerally styles, com.au (all quoted prices are per bottle November 11 (closes October 17) leaving a generation of ‘chardie’ drinkers with no buyer’s premium applicable). scrabbling for options. Here, wineries like GRAYSONLINE Scarborough are stepping into the fold, LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS Daily wine auctions, starting from supported by a fleet of Mornington and (INTERIM 2ND QUARTER MARKET $9 per case, with a 30-day money Hunter producers who are well aware REPORT by ANDREA PRITZKER) back guarantee. of how popular full-bodied chardonnay Fine wine auctions end Monday- can be. The past few months have been some Wednesday-Thursday each week. of the busiest and most significant Port and spirit auctions end on In other trends, we’ve seen the in Langton’s 25 year history - as we Tuesdays. increasing popularity of nebbiolo across celebrated not one, but two watershed our channels, though largely Italian moments. Our new website went live CRACKA WINES barolo, barbaresco and roero rather on April 11, with a brand new look and Live wine auctions every day 8pm. than Australian examples. Conversely, an online wine store featuring a diverse Australian sangiovese is much more selection of fine, local and imported (All dates subject to change widely accepted, while chianti and wines offering Langton’s customers for without notice) the first time ever, a new way to shop for fine wine. Adding to the excitement, the new Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine VI was launched to great fanfare on May 1 in Adelaide. Comprising 139 wines in three tiers: Exceptional, Outstanding and Excellent - Classification VI is a reflection of the maturation of Australia’s secondary fine wine market and the move towards single vineyard wines. A series of highly successful tastings celebrating Classification VI were also held throughout May, with the last scheduled for Perth on June 25. The new and improved auction platform featuring a simplified bidding process70 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

42 DEGREES SOUTH A. RETIEF A.T. RICHARDSON ALKOOMI ALTA AMBERLEY AMELIA PARK ANGASPLAINS ANGOVE ANGUS THE BULL ANNIE’S LANE ARAMIS ARMCHAIR CRITIC ARRIVO ARROWFIELDARTWINE ASCELLA PURE ASHBROOK ASHTON HILLS B3 BADGER’S BROOK BAILLIEU BALGOWNIEBALLAST STONE BANROCK STATION BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE BARWANG BARWICK BATHEBATTELY BATTLE OF BOSWORTH BAY OF FIRES BELGRAVIA BELLARMINE BEN POTTS BERESFORDBERTON BEST’S BIRD IN HAND BISCAY BLACKBILLY BLEASDALE BLUE PYRENEES BLUE TONGUEBOLD HEARTS BOTOBOLAR BOWEN ESTATE BRAND’S LAIRA BREAM CREEK BREATHING SPACEBRESS BRINDABELLA HILLS BROKENWOOD BROOKLAND VALLEY BROTHERS IN ARMS BROWNBROTHERS BROWNS OF PADTHAWAY BUNKERS BUTLER CREST BY FARR BYRNE CALEDONIAAUSTRALIS CAMPBELLS CANONBAH BRIDGE CAPE BARREN CAPE BERNIER CAPE JAFFA CAPEMENTELLE CAPE NATURALISTE CAPEL SOUND CAPEL VALE CAPERCAILLIE CASTELLI ESTATECASTLE ROCK ESTATE CATCH BILLY CATCHING THIEVES CHAIN OF PONDS CHALICE BRIDGE CHALKHILL CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD CHAPEL HILL CHARLES CIMICKY CHRISMONT CLARENDON HILLSCLAYMORE CLEMENS HILL CLOS CLARE CLOVER HILL COAL VALLEY COLDSTREAM HILLS COOBARACOOKS LOT CORAL SEA CORIOLE CORK CUTTERS CULLEN CUMULUS CURLEWIS CUTTAWAY HILLD’ARENBERG DAL ZOTTO DALWHINNIE DANDELION DAOSA DAVID HOOK DE BORTOLI DE IULIISDEAKIN DEEP WOODS DELATITE DERWENT DESTINATIONS DEVIATION ROAD DEVIL’S LAIRDEXTER DIAMOND VALLEY DOGRIDGE DOMAIN DAY DOMAINE A DOMAINE CHANDON DOMAINESTATIARRA DOWIE DOOLE DUNSBOROUGH HILLS DUTSCHKE EAGLE VALE EDENMAE EDWARDSELDERTON ELDRIDGE ESTATE ELMSLIE ENOOMAH BORE EPEROSA EVANS & TATE EYRE CREEKFABER VINEYARD FAIRBANK FARR RISING FEATHERTOP FERNGROVE FIFTH LEG FIRST DROPFIVE GEESE FLAMETREE FLINTS OF COONAWARRA FORESTER ESTATE FORMBY & ADAMS FOURSISTERS FOUR WINDS FRAMINGHAM FRASER GALLOP FREYCINET FROGMORE CREEK FUDDLINGCUP GALLI ESTATE GARDNERS GROUND GARFISH GEMTREE GEOFF HARDY GEOFF MERRILL GEOFFWEAVER GIPSIE JACK GLAETZER GLAETZER-DIXON FAMILY GLEN ELDON GLENGUIN ESTATEGOATY HILL GORDON HILLS GOUNDREY GRANT BURGE GROSSET GUMPARA HANDPICKED HAPPSSearchAND THREE 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MILESFROM NOWHERE MITCHELL MITCHELTON MITOLO MOJO MOLLYDOOKER MONTROSE MOONBARKESTATE MOONDAH BROOK MOOTHI ESTATE MOPPITY MORGAN PENDARI MOSS WOOD MOTORHEADMOUNT CAMEL RIDGE MOUNT HORROCKS MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN MOUNT PLEASANT MOUNTADAMMR MICK MT BUFF MUNARI NASHWAUK NIGHT HARVEST NINTH ISLAND NORFOLK RISE NUGANWINE SITE!O’LEARY WALKER OAKOVER OAKRIDGE OATLEY OCEAN EIGHT OCEAN GROVE ODDFELLOWSOLIVER’S TARANGA OMNI OXFORD LANDING PADTHAWAY ESTATE PANORAMA PARADIGM HILLPARINGA ESTATE PARKER COONAWARRA PARRI ESTATE PARTISAN PAUL CONTI PAXTON PEELESTATE PENFOLDS PENLEY PENNA LANE PENNY’S HILL PEPPER TREE PEPPERJACK PETALUMAPETER LEHMANN PEWSEY VALE PHILIP SHAW PICARDY PICARUS PIERRO PIG IN THE HOUSE PIKE& JOYCE PIKES PIMPERNEL PIPERS BROOK PIRIE PIRRAMIMMA PIZZINI PLANTAGENET PORTPHILLIP ESTATE PRANCING HORSE PREVELI PRIMO PRINTHIE PROTERO PROVENANCE PUNTROAD PUPPETEER PURE CLARE PURE VISION PURPLE HANDS PYRENEES RIDGE QUARISA QUATTROMANO RADFORD RALPH FOWLER RAVEN PARK RAVENSWORTH RED HILL 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wine investment & collectingand photographs of every lot is already ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS 1990s and early 2000 vintages - allproving a big hit, with record numbers of (MAY’S PREMIUM AUCTION REPORT experienced good clearances over Aprilbidders participating at auction in May, BY GRAHAM WRIGHT) and May. Even Barossa Valley Estate E&Edriving momentum and sales. Black Pepper, once thought of as being Well, well, well - what a topsy-turvy dead in the water by Australian auction Highlights of the 2nd quarter include auction world we are living in at present. buyers, saw a resurgence in May with1974 Penfolds Bin 389 fetching $198, I’ve been reporting for some time about good clearances reported for a largea significant spike in price over the how bare the cupboard has been with offering from the late 1990s through toprevious average price of $99 - likely our wine stocks. It just seemed that the mid-2000s.owing to it being a significant birth year. A vendors were holding off for quitebottle of 1951 Penfolds Bin 1 Grange also some time. Then by May’s auction, Other strong clearances included Capesold at auction for $46,600, underlining Oddbins had a complete turnaround. Mentelle Shiraz from 1997, Dalwhinniehow valuable the remaining few bottles The warehouse was full! A number of Shiraz and Cabernet from 2005, Noonof this remarkable curio have become. mid-size collections plus a couple of Eclipse from 2002 through to 2008, important large cellars had arrived for 1998 Redbank Sally’s Paddock, a large Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet sale. The majority of the stock was mid- offering of Tim Adams The AberfeldySauvignon continues to draw competitive priced, moderately aged, Australian red from 1994 through to 2002, Wendoureebidding with an imperial of the 1986 classics - just what the market and this Shiraz Mataro from the 1990s and 2000svintage selling for $1398. This equates to auction house had been demanding. - along with 1997 Wynns John Riddoch.$174 per bottle, with the current auction Buyers were also taken by some of theaverage price at $93. This influx of stock also coincided lesser known but certainly still quality with an increase in clearance rates of wines on offer at this auction including Demand for imports remains brisk with Penfold’s flagship Grange and Bin 707 2006 De Lisio Krystina Shiraz, 1999 Leoultra-fine Burgundy still very strong, - along with Bins 28 and 389, RWT and Buring Special Riesling, Mollydooker’sevidenced by a magnum of Domaine de St Henri. Same story for the Henschke massive 2011 Carnival of Love, Olssensla Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti 2006 premiums: Hill of Grace and Mount of Watervale Six Cabernet Blend fromachieving $19,805. Edelstone. However, supply of these 2005 and the delightfully named 2008 super-premiums, especially in near Yalumba The Cigar Cabernet. With an influx of new bidders and a flurry perfect condition, still remains soft.of auctions scheduled for the remainder With imported wines the marketof the second quarter, including the Mid-market premium red table wines remains relatively slow, with buyersPenfolds auction held annually in June, are very much in demand. Wines such as in May only opting for a few classicthe momentum and excitement driving Grant Burge Meshach, Greenock Creek Bordeaux - although they did take a littlethe secondary fine wine market looks Apricot and Seven Acre, Kay Brothers more interest in Champagne. Importedset to continue strongly well into the Block 6, Orlando Jacaranda Ridge and spirits, especially from Scotland, alsothird quarter. Lawson’s Shiraz, Rockford Basket Press, caught buyer attention in this auction. Wendouree Shiraz and Wynns Cabernet Visit www.langtons.com.au for more Sauvignon - especially from the mid- Reviewing Oddbins’ Top Ten Auctioninformation. Values are per bottle andinclude buyer’s premium. Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What72 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

wine investment & collectingPerformers lists for its May auction and 1989 Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1er Cru per cent above the top end of the guides;heading up the ‘Top Ten Hammer Prices Pauillac (level into neck, cellar scuffed followed by two bottles of 1999 Orlandofor Australian Wine’ table was a bottle capsule), with a ‘97 Chateau Lafite Jacaranda Ridge Coonawarra Cabernetof 1962 Penfolds Bin 414 Special Show Rothschild 1er Cru Pauillac (level into Sauvignon, which went 17.1 per centBarossa Valley Sauternes (VVHS, minor neck, minor cellar scuffed capsule) above. A very strong result for a rarelycellar nicked label) which fetched $560 rounding out the top three at $600. seen wine.- with a magnum of 1998 Penfolds Bin Also in this Top Ten was a mixed bag of707 Cabernet Sauvignon (original timber top shelf Champagne: a boxed bottle In the usual story, buyers of importedcase) in second position, achieving $410. of Krug Champagne Brut Vintage 1996 wines were tight with their bidding but inHenschke’s Hill of Grace made a pleasant achieved $390, a boxed bottle of Krug the ‘Top Ten Fortified & Spirit Performers,return to this Top Ten table, with a bottle of Champagne Brut Rose NV fetched $290 Percentage Above Top End of Guides’ list.the 1990 (level into neck) fetching $390. and a bottle of 1990 Moet & Chandon There was an extraordinary result for an Cuvee Dom Perignon Champagne, also old bottling of Orlando Gold Medal Extra Take out the big two auction performers boxed, fetched $260. Sweet Liqueur Muscat (classic blue label,and the question remains: who says large gold medal winner 1961/cellar stainedformat bottles are dead in the auction Scottish whiskies came to the fore label and capsule) which went 44 permarket? Heading up the ‘Top Ten Non- in May, but the results of the ‘Top Ten cent above the top end of the guides.Penfolds/Henschke Hammer Prices’ Hammer Prices, Fortified Wines & Spirits’ There was also great buyer interest in thetable was a magnum of 1998 Rockford table for the May sale reflected the lack Baileys of Glenrowan offerings.Basket Press Barossa Valley Shiraz of supply of quality Australian fortifieds,(original timber case) at $285, followed especially Seppelt vintage date Para’s. In For more information visit www.closely by a double magnum of 1990 top spot was a boxed bottle of Johnnie oddbins.com.au (all prices quoted arePetaluma Coonawarra Cabernet Blend Walker Blue Label King George V Edition exclusive of Buyer’s Premium).(VHS, minor cellar nicked label) at $230 Blended Whisky at $350, followed by aand a magnum of 2003 Moss Wood Glenfiddich Age of Discovery Mississippi GRAYSONLINEMargaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Bourbon Cask Reserve Highland 19 (REVIEW BY GREG FITZSIMMONS)(original timber case) in third spot, yo Single Malt Whisky, also boxed, atfetching $220. $150. A 1944 Seppelt Para Liqueur Port Established in 1844, Penfolds is achieved $75, with a ’47 fetching $65. Australia’s oldest iconic wine brand. Classic ‘classed-growth’ Bordeaux From humble beginnings the label hasheaded the ‘Top Ten Hammer Prices, It was evident from the ‘Top Ten become not only Australia’s leadingImported Wine’ table. A bottle of 1982 Australian Performers, Percentage Above wine brand but one of the worlds mostChateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru Top End of Guides’ list that buyers were enjoyed. Wine drinkers from New YorkPauillac (VVHS, minor cellar stained back in force for Penfolds Bin 707 and to Beijing seek out Penfolds to enhancelabel, minor cellar nicked capsule) took prepared to bid them up in May. A bottle their cellars. Today Penfolds continues toout the top position, fetching $700. In of 2007 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet outperform all before it on the secondarysecond place, achieving $630, was a Sauvignon tops this list, fetching 19.4 market in Australia. To coincide with theWINNER OF THE CANSTAR BLUEMOST SATISFIED CUSTOMERS AWARDFOR ONLINE LIQUOR STORESQuality wines at wholesale prices with all auctionssbtaacrktingugafrraonmtejeusatn$d9sppeeredcyasdee.liWveitrhy,aw3h0adt’asynmototnoeylove about wine at GraysOnline?Vcuissittowmwewrs.garraeygsoivninligneu.scofimve and find out why our stars! September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 73

wine investment & collectingrelease of the super premiums on May 1998 Bin 389 set a new record at $152 to Gladstone and Sydney to Broome,1 this year, graysonline conducted a sale on the hammer which, when you consider more and more customers from the farexclusively of Penfolds wines. There it sold for around $30 on release, makes flung corners of Australia are buyingwere over one hundred lots, ranging from for a great investment; even better than and bolstering their collections ofmix-six packs of Grange through to single the stock market return of almost 12 per Bundaberg Rum. Whilst the past fewbottles of Bin 707 and RWT Bin 407. Like cent per year! months has seen a decline in bothall graysonline Private Cellar auctions, value and volume, as a result of manybidding began at the ludicrous price of Henschke Hill of Grace continues to collectors downsizing when the market$9. The sale eclipsed all expectations, achieve very high prices, with the 1992 was at its peak, others are seeking outreaching a staggering $55,500 (without and 1999 vintages exceeding $400, and the growing bargains including MDC Nobuyer’s premium). The sale led with the 1996 fetching a whopping $530. 4 at under $70 and the Select Vat 207 ata vertical of 750ml Penfolds Grange Jim Barry Armagh is solid with the 1999 under $60. Given each of these were overfrom vintages 1997-2008, packaged in averaging $137 and the 1998 $187. With the $100 mark last year, they representsix packs. These packs each achieved the volume of Mount Mary in the market, great buying. I fear that Diageo, theover $3300 each, effectively over $550 pricing has inevitably dropped, leaving makers of Bundaberg Rum, may haveper bottle, which is a staggering result the outstanding 2001 pinot selling as simply pushed too many ‘collectable’considering each individual bottle would a two pack for under $100, and the rums onto the market and, as such,have been expected to sell well below chardonnay averaging under $65 per devalued them long-term in order tothat level. One very lucky customer bottle for 2005 and 2006 vintages. Other achieve larger profits short-term. Inscored a complete mini vertical of bargains of twin packs at under $50 my view, in order to retain its premiumGrange, which will be a prodigious include: 2011 Grosset Watervale Riesling, status on the global stage, Bundabergaddition to the cellar. 2006 St Hallett Faith Shiraz, 1998 Rum may simply need to make higher Bannockburn Pinot Noir, 2000 Leeuwin quality rums. Other outstanding results from this Estate Prelude Vineyards Cabernetsale included a 1964 Grange in stellar Merlot and the 2004 De Bortoli Noble graysonline remains the leader incondition, which achieved $1050 and One, all of which are delivered straight themed and weekly sales. These salesa 1973 Grange for $704. The rare 1987 to your door, ready to drink and perfect provide the foundation of our growthmagnum (rare due to cork issues), sold for for your next dinner party. These wines and have led to our substantial marketover $1240. Mini verticals of Penfolds 389 will draw the admiration of any guest. share. You can be sure that as graysonlinesold for over $500, Bin 707 consistently remains an independent and fiercelyachieved over the $200 mark, as did even In the past 18 months Bundaberg competitive player in the fine wine andthe inferior vintages; such is the demand Rum has seen incredible volumes liquor business, we will continue to leadfor this wine. RWT has turned the corner come through the door with value from the front.and both demand and pricing has been maintained via our weekly “Bundystrong. The 1998 went out at $169 and sale”. As graysonline reaches a monthly For more information visit www.the 2002 at $140. A single bottle of the audience of over a million wine graysonline.com.au (prices listed don’t enthusiasts, stretching from Hobart include buyers’ premium).74 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR:AUSTRALIA & NEW take out a subscription and save! Australia SUBSCRIBE TO OUR ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 7 issues (1yr) $A60 (includes $5.45 GST) SAVE $10.70 PCAOCMKPALGETEE 14 issues (2yrs) $A110 (includes $10 GST) SAVE $31.40 which includes hard- Price include GST, postage and handling. copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to New Zealand binders Winestate’s web site and Price includes Airmail. Australian residents only reviews. Available only Please mark  one option: Your attractive binder easily through online order, holds 7 issues - handy for www.winestate.com.au 7 issues (1 year) $A69 quick reference! 14 issues (2 years) $A125 Please mark  one option: Asia, Pacific 1 Binder $A19.80 Price includes Airmail. Please mark : 2 Binders $A33 7 issues (1 year) $A99 Elsewhere 3 Binders $A49.50 Price includes Airmail. Please mark : (includes GST) 7 issues (1 year) $A113 Prices available for overseas on application. Home WineMaster Price includes Airmail. Please mark : Complete Software Programme V10 $A89 Upgrade to V10 $A34.95 Subscription Update* (1 year) V10 $A29 Subscription Update* (2 years) V10 $A49 *Requires software programme. Mr / Mrs / Miss Address Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) E-mail Your subscription will start from the next issue. I enclose my cheque for $ payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: Mastercard Visa Name on card: Signature Expires / Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 Gift SubScriPtioN Recipient’s Name Address gift subscription Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) Tel: 08 8357 9277 Please send a gift card to Me Recipient www.winestate.com.auConditions: Offer is limited to the first 70 new Also fill in your details in the section above. subscribers in Australia only. Recipient must be over 18 years of age. September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 75

YOUR PRODUCT DELIVERED TO THE WORLDWith two thirds of our wine products being As a global supply chain leader with over 230sent overseas, wine producers are finding branches around the world, Mainfreightthat to expand their business means taking partners with customers to provide the fullthat step to exporting. spectrum of international forwarding (packaged and bulk tanks), air freight, seaVenturing into the export market can be an freight, warehousing and domestic transportexciting opportunity filled with enormous in and out of the most dynamic economies inpotential. With product certification, more the world.complex timeframes and every countryhaving unique importing requirements, Reduce your export worries and streamlineMainfreight can help navigate through the your next shipping project by chatting to onecomplex international market. of our team today. Adelaide Brisbane Melbourne Sydney Perth08 8300 5576 07 3638 3900 03 9330 6007 02 9384 7900 08 9352 4277 Mainfreight, proud sponsors of the Shiraz of the Year Award, wish to congratulate all associated with Bird in Hand Winery, a very worthy winner in 2014

Immerse yourself in an exclusive Italian wine experience! Over 50 Italian producers from all over Italy Unique opportunity for importers and distributors to source new wines, for industry professionals to expand your knowledge and repertoire and for wine lovers to try and buy!Myer Mural HallLevel 6, Myer Bourke Street, MelbourneSunday 26 October 2014, 11am - 7pmMonday 27 October 2014, 10am - 5pmVinitalia Down Under Boutique ExpoTaste and explore dozens of autochthonous varieties from allover Italy – many not yet available in Australia!Vinitaly International AcademyHigh-level executive wine seminar program, organised byVeronafiere and Vinitaly International and presented byinternationally renowned Italian wine expert Dr. Ian D’Agata.An exclusive opportunity to taste and learn about Italianwine varieties, their distinctive characteristics andtheir connection to their local territory and traditionsOne-on-one tastingsPre-organised business meetings and one-on-one tastingswith Italian producers – reserved for importers anddistributors and wine industry professionalsEntry $45 (all inclusive)Winestate Magazine subscribers $30Free entry for trade and hospitality industry professionalsInformation and online registration: www.italcham.com.auOrganised by In partnership with Media Partner With the financial support ofITALIAN WINE MEETS AUSTRALIA - Special Promotional Plan for Made in Italy. Promotional campaign for Italian wine in Australia, promoted and financed by the Ministry of Economic Development

503 TASTED322 AWARDEDW O R LD ’ S G R E AT E S T S Y R A H& S H I R A Z C H A LLEN G E 1XWe are truly blessed to have the opportunity to taste such a Tudor Central Victoria Fox Creek McLarenfabulous line-up of shiraz and syrah wines across all price categories. Shiraz 2012 HHH Vale ShirazOf all the reds, perhaps shiraz is the most honest, where attention Nice touch of spicy oak Grenache Mourvedreto detail pays off in droves as clay is moulded into works of art. With on the nose and sweet 2012 HHH1/2exceptions, generally speaking (compared to other reds) with shiraz complexity of plum and Not a huge wine but it’sthe more you pay the more you get! Here is a tasting that should chocolate flavours. $12.99 varietal and balancedplease many, regardless of the depth of your pocket. Chapoutier Cotes Du and easy to drink with Rhone France Shiraz complex berry fruit andShiraz & Jamieson’s Run Wolf Blass Red Grenache 2012 HHH persistent tannins. $17.50Blends Billy’s Shadow Shiraz Label South Eastern Attractive red fruit bouquetunder $10 2013 HHH Australia Shiraz with floral touches and Shiraz 2013 A pretty delicate style Grenache 2013 HHHH pleasant creamy red fruit $15-2020 TASTED with upfront floral red Strong bright purple hues flavours. $14.956 AWARDED fruit characters. “Value with aromatic strawberry- 6 TASTED for money,” said one like bouquet and juicy Shiraz Blends 4 AWARDEDThe fresher wines judge. $6.65 raspberry flavours on the $15-$20 Small flight of earlyfrom the 2013 vintage soft creamy palate. A release wines whereperformed best. In Yellowtail Shiraz good drink. $14 5 TASTED freshness is key.this category judges 2013 HHH 2 AWARDEDwere looking for simple Nice spicy oak on the Brookman Wines Blends from a good Fox Creek Red Baronprimary fruit, cleanliness nose and bright raspberry Silv’s Block year can offer good McLaren Vale Shirazand balance and a few palate. Sweet but McLaren Vale Shiraz buying opportunities as 2013 HHHHmade the grade! managed nicely. $9.99 2009 HHH1/2 seen here. A complex and inky wine Old school-like oaky that appears quite oakyCock + Bull Shiraz De Bortoli First Block nose and obvious Kracker Jack Bin but has good supporting2013 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHH aged characters on the 212 Margaret River fruit underneath withHints of violets on Attractive oak, nice red chocolaty/plum palate. Shiraz Cabernet an attractive savourythe nose, warm and fruit and good aged Still showing some 2012 HHHH meatiness. $17.50creamy in the mouth and complexity developing. vitality. 3-5 $12.50 Fresh menthol notesbursting with purple fruit Value! $7.59 lift off the blackcurrantflavours. $4.75 Lindeman’s Bin nose. Good palate Shiraz & 50 South Eastern weight, more of theGrant Burge Classic Blends $10-15 Australia Shiraz menthol characters andCollection Shiraz 2013 HHH some grippy tannins.2013 HHH1/2 18 TASTED Sweet oak and red fruitIntense dark fruit 8 AWARDED aromas with a warm well- 5+ $19.50fragrances and powerful balanced plum palate.plum flavours with a fine A mixed bag. “The “Has drinkability.” $10tannin balance and quite higher scorers here hada drying finish. $7.50 better mid-palates,” said McPherson Wines one judge. “The best South EasternRawsons Retreat wines offered excellent Australia ShirazSouth Eastern value for money.” 2013 HHHAustralia Shiraz 2013 Chocolaty nose withHHH1/2 Taylors Promised some raspberry notes andAromatic jubey Land South Australia a generous palate withconfectionery cherry Shiraz 2013 HHHH ripe fruit intensity. $12.99nose and a very soft Brooding fruit noseplum palate showing with nice oak coming Red Knot bynatural sweetness and through. Well built, Shingleback McLarenfloral notes. $8.99 chocolate/plum, palate Vale Shiraz 2013 HHH with good oak tannins Dark inky fruit nose holding it together nicely. with great palate weight and showing good red 3-5 $13 fruit concentration. 3-5 $14.9578 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tastingTaylors Clare ValleyShiraz 2013 HHHHAppealing wine thathas lovely balance,finesse and drinkabilitywith creamy praline-like characters on thenose and good flavourintensity. 5+ $19 Some of the finest wines of the world,Rosemount Estate only a phone call away ...Diamond LabelSouth Australia • BLEASDALE VINEYARDS • EARTHWORKSShiraz 2013 HHH1/2 • FREYCINET • HAY SHED HILLA fresh lighter stylewith attractive aromas • HEATHCOTE WINERY • JOHN DUVAL WINESand silky smooth fruit • KANTA • KOOYONG • LANGMEIL WINERYpalate with well-handled • mesh • O’LEARY WALKER • PITCHFORKoak in a supportive role. • PRIMO ESTATE • REDBANK 5+ $16 • RYMILL COONAWARRABayliss Road Blackstone Paddock • SEPPELTSFIELD • SOUTHMcLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Valley • TARRAWARRA ESTATE • thousand candles2013 HHH Shiraz 2012 HHHHA simple wine of good Powerful, slightly • TIN SHED WINES • WEST CAPE HOWEdark varietal fruit, smoky, oak but you can • WIRRA WIRRA VINEYARDSpeppery and spice notes still see the varietal fruitwith vanillin oak. $18 beneath. It has length, • AGRICOLA ALLEGRINI • ALASIA • ANTINORI complexity and style • ARGIANO • ATA RANGI • AUGUSTE CLAPEShiraz 2012 with cellaring potential. • BODEGA CASTANO • BODEGAS CATENA ZAPATA$15-20 • BODEGAS MAURO • BODEGAS VALDEMAR 5+ $19.9930 TASTED • CANTINE PRA • CHATEAU de FUISSÉ11 AWARDED • J. L. CHAVE • CIEN Y PICO • CORTE GIARAThe best wines here • DOMAINE du COMTE LIGER-BELAIRwere definitely a cut • DOMAINE de la ROMANÉE CONTIabove the previous group • DOMAINE COCHE-DURY • DOMAINE DUGAT-PUYwith many richer spicier • DOMAINE DUJAC • DOMAINE FAIVELEYwines that over deliveredfor the price. But there • DOMAINE RENÉ ROSTAINGwere also too many • DOMAINE RAMONET • DOMAINE ROULOTwines that the judges • DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE • DRY RIVERconsidered to be “real • E. GUIGAL • EGON MÜLLER • EMILIO LUSTAUflops”. Choose carefully! • FROMM • GAJA • GEORGES DUBŒUF Shingleback • GREYWACKE • HUGEL et FILS Davey Brothers • LA RIVA DEI FRATI • LAURONA • LIS NERIS McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 • LOUIS BOUILLOT • MARC BREDIF Dark inky wine smelling • MOUNT NELSON WINES • ORNELLAIA • PALA of fruit cake with lingering plum and dark chocolate • PALLISER ESTATE • PASCAL JOLIVET flavours and a grainy • PIAN DELLE VIGNE • CHAMPAGNE POL ROGER tannin structure. $17.99 • POLI • PRUNOTTO • SAINT CLAIR FAMILY ESTATE • SASSICAIA • SEGHESIO - SONOMA • THE ROYAL TOKAJI WINE COMPANY • TIEFENBRUNNER • TORRES • TWO PADDOCKS • VALDESPINO • VALLI • VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE • VIÑA VENTISQUERO • VINOPTIMA • WEINGUT BERNHARD OTT New South Wales/ACT – 02 8344 8288 South Australia/Northern Territory – 08 8112 4210 Victoria/Tasmania – 03 9268 1750 Queensland – 07 3373 5766 Western Australia – 08 9333 4244 www.negociantsaustralia.com September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 79

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IX Lou Miranda Estate Shiraz 2011 Leone Barossa Valley & Older Shiraz 2012 HHH $15-20 Intense jubey bouquet with mouthfilling sweet 12 TASTED oak flavours mingling with some fruit. $18.95 4 AWARDED “Stay away from the 2011s in this price bracket,” advised one judge, bar one exception. Overall a disappointing flight with very few better than the previous bracket. Fresh is best in this category; select carefully.Andrew Peace Shanahans The Old Taylor Ferguson Willandra Patrick ofWinemakers Choice Dog Barossa Valley Directors Reserve Estate Premium CoonawarraBarossa Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Limited Release Langhorne Creek Mother of Pearl2012 HHH1/2 Appealing wine - dark McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2008 Wrattonbully ShirazAttractive peppery and brooding with 2012 HHH HHH1/2 2010 HHHcool climate elements some savouriness and A solid wine with Holding up well A complex wine withand showing mature developing leathery obvious oak and some with mature dark firm tannin structure andchocolate, plum and chocolate notes. $19.95 savoury characters licorice aromas and ripe dark ripe fruit with hintsleathery characters. $19 Thorn-Clarke adding complexity. fruit flavours showing of olives. $19Mojo by Rockbare Sandpiper some smoky/gameyBarossa Valley Barossa Valley 5+ $19.99 touches. $15 ShirazShiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Sandalford Margaret Taltarni T Series BlendsBig, oaky and chocolaty Thick, generous and River Range Pyrenees Shiraz $20-25wine with some dense well-balanced with good Margaret River 2011 HHHdark fruits lurking varietal characters and Shiraz 2012 HHH Bright red fruits, 3 TASTEDunderneath and some showing nice sweetness Plenty of oak here but aromatic oak and 2 AWARDEDwarming alcohol. $18 and freshness. $18.99 also has nice varietal attractive violet notes.Patritti Old Gate Thorn-Clarke fruit with some big Well-made wine for a A couple of nicelyMcLaren Vale Shire James Goddard tannins holding it all tough year. $17 blended, balancedShiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Barossa Valley together. $18.95 Terramore For wines using the classicClean, bright and Shiraz 2012 HHH the Love of Wine Aussie blend of shirazwell-balanced with a A fruit-driven style Coonawarra Shiraz and cabernet.complexity of olives, with upfront blueberry 2010 HHHplums and blackcurrants characters, some florals Powerful mocha aromasand good supporting and subtle oak use. and well-integrated oakoak. $18 $16.99 and fruit flavours. Old school style. $19day 1 - judges Paul Kemich Sam Watkins Senior winemaker, Winemaker Boar’s Rock Adam Clay Angoves Wines. Winery and Adelaide Penfolds winemaker in Previously winemaker Winemakers. Formerly the Barossa Valley. Has at Berri Estates and winemaker at Wynns, Philip completed vintages at Stonehaven, plus a Shaw and Seppeltsfield Marchesi de Frescobaldi vintage in California. wineries. Has vintaged in in Chianti and Pellegrin Judged at Riverland Portugal and Napa Valley. in California. Judge at and Inland wine shows Associate judge at the Royal the Alternative Varieties and Associate at the Adelaide and Langhorne show Cairns, Queensland Limestone Coast show. Creek wine shows. Wine Awards and Clare Valley wine show.80 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tastingMetala Single Shiraz 2013 Three Dark Horses Wicks EstateVineyard Langhorne $20-$25 McLaren Vale Shiraz Adelaide Hills ShirazCreek Shiraz 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2Cabernet 2012 12 TASTED Powerful oaky nose and Lifted aromatic darkHHHH1/2 10 AWARDED an old school style of varietal fruit, someAn elegant, aromatic, shiraz palate - big, rich, menthol notes andfruit-driven style, Definitely a big step-up grippy and oaky with herbal characters addingquite restrained with here according to the flavours like fruit cake complexity and interest.a perfumed bouquet. judges. A very consistent and licorice. $24.99Soft in the mouth group with bright 3-5 $20with pleasant fruit aromatic fruit that could Flaxman Paladinsweetness. Still looking even take some ageing. Barossa Valleyvery young and vibrant. Shiraz 2013 HHH Lifted blueberry nose 5+ $22 and creamy palate with the fruit, oak and tannins in balance. $20Fox Creek JSM Sanguine Progeny Ingoldby McLaren 19 Crimes Victoria MoonstruckMcLaren Vale Shiraz Heathcote Shiraz Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHHH Goulburn Valley 2013 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH A lift of dark plum Shiraz 2013 HHH A fresh young wine Quite inky with aromas with savoury and Lifted jubey fruit aromas with great purple freshness and vitality. spicy elements. Medium and well-structured colour, a distinct Lovely purple hues, dark bodied, youthful, fruit- palate that’s quite floral primary fruit nose and Ribena aromas and an driven palate with lovely and feminine. $21.99 a ripe, but not jammy, attractive lingering plum tannin structure. $22.99 palate with lingering palate with subtle oak. Cooks Lot Orange McPherson Wines savoury tannins adding Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Chapter Three an extra dimension. 5+ $20 A pretty aromatic wine Strathbogie Ranges that’s lifted and jubey Shiraz 2013 HHH 5+ $24.95 on the nose with a fruit- Slightly porty nose driven style of palate with persistent fresh that’s soft and fresh. raspberry-like flavours. A nice quaffer. $24.99 3-5 $20 Shiraz 2012 $20-25 36 TASTED 27 AWARDEDCabernet Sauvignon Sightings HeathcoteCabernet Franc2012 HHHH Bendigo Shiraz A very solid class whereLifted, intense and 2013 HHH1/2 the judges commentedbrooding with a leafy Dense inky colour with a on the “pretty aromatics”blackcurrant bouquet floral oaky bouquet and that were evident. Theand big, rich, juicy and a rich, slightly drying, best wines held backjammy palate, grippy grippy palate. Good on oak with the tannintannins and alcohol potential. 5+ $20 structure from the fruitwarmth. 5+ $23 carrying the wines. “On the whole these are holding onto their vibrancy,” said one judge. Sam Kurtz Steven Meyer day 2 - judges Group red winemaker White winemaker for for Orlando Wyndham. Orlando Wyndham with Eric Semmler His career spans 12 the Richmond Grove Proprietor of 919 Wine vintages in Australia to brand. Has previously Company. Formerly winemaker date, and he’s worked worked in the Barossa for the Hardy Wine Company. international vintages Valley, SA and Mudgee Previously with Brown in Hungary and the and Griffith, NSW. Brothers and Auldstone United States. Judge Conducted a vintage in Cellars. Has spent eight years at the Melbourne and Republic of Georgia (2001). as fortified winemaker for Canberra wine shows. Hardys. Associate judge at Rutherglen, McLaren Vale and Riverland shows. September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 81

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IXBremerton Selkirk Heathcote Winery Johnston WinesLanghorne Creek Cravens Place Oakbank AdelaideShiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 Heathcote Shiraz Hills ShirazAn aromatic lift of 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHHblackberries on the nose Lifted spicy aromas Toasty and chocolaty onwith the oak in seamless leading on to a very the nose with pepperybalance. Generous plum grippy chocolaty style of spicy characters fillingand blackcurrant fruit palate with a solid tannin the palate. 5+ $20palate with stylish oak framework. $22lingering on the back Swings & Leopardwoodpalate. 5+ $22 Roundabouts Heathcote Shiraz Margaret River 2012 HHHBlack Estate Axe Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Pastille fruit fragrancesCreek Shiraz A stylish wine showing and a bright, sweet and2012 HHHH plenty of personality aromatic red fruit palate.Dark, dense and and with a perfectsavoury aromas with balance of spicy oak and 5+ $20 juicy jubey varietal fruit.persistent chocolaty/ Saltram 1859licorice flavours 3-5 $22 Barossa Shirazshowing some savoury Rockbare McLaren 2012 HHHnotes and a good tannic Vale Shiraz Interesting beetroot-grip. 3-5 $22 2012 HHH1/2 like characters on the Big oaky bouquet with lifted nose; soft and Ambush Hill Shingleback The lavender highlights and savoury in the mouth. McLaren Vale Shiraz Davey Estate good persistence of 2012 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz plum and violet flavours. 3-5 $20 Old school style with 2012 HHHH Just starting to mature. powerful oak characters Bright raspberry Roustabout tending to dominate the aromas with cedary 5+ $23 Overseer’s Mount sweet varietal fruit and oak lift. Chocolaty oak GMH South Barker WA Shiraz underscored by silky tends to dominate the Australia Shiraz 2012 HHH smooth tannins. $24 palate and offers a 2012 HHH Maturing nicely with a Thorn-Clarke mouthful of tannins. Smells of licorice and lovely creamy texture, Shotfire Barossa has leathery, chocolaty, powerful fruit and Valley Shiraz 3-5 $23.95 plum-like flavours and stylish tannins. 2012 HHHH Vasarelli Family still showing some tannic A big rich style with Reserve McLaren grip. 5+ $20 3-5 $21.99 intense persistence Vale Shiraz Ingoldby McLaren of blackcurrant and 2012 HHH1/2 Vale Shiraz Brothers In Arms No. beetroot characters, Dark rich bouquet 2012 HHH 6 Langhorne Creek some powerful oak and with big, upfront, fruit Bright fresh savoury Shiraz 2012 HHH a long tannin profile. flavours but also has aromas with a grippy Very oaky but there’s an abundance of oak. palate and a fresh fruit some powerful fruit. 5+ $24.99 “Very agreeable wine.” finish. $20 Good balance between Pertaringa acid and sweetness. 5+ $20.99 Undercover McLaren Wyndham Estate Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH 5+ $22 George Wyndham Lots of tannins and acidPeter Lehmann Langhorne Creek here with subtle dark Mr Riggs The GafferH&V Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 fruits and some alcohol McLaren Vale ShirazShiraz 2012 HHHH Aromatically bright heat. $22 2012 HHHNice varietal fruit raspberry nose with Some cola-likewith aromatic oak a nice dash of pepper characters on the noseadding complexity and and a well-focused, with a thick blue fruitbrightness to the wine. grippy varietal palate. palate and plenty ofPlenty of tannins. Good acidity. $22cellaring potential. 5+ $21.99 5+ $22day 3 - judges Shane Harris Wes Pearson Winemaker for Wines by Technical Officer at Bill Hardy Geoff Hardy including, the Australian Wine Corporate oenologist for Pertaringa Wines, K1 and Research Institute Accolade Wines (formerly Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy and part of the Constellation). 28 years’ Wines. Has also completed Sensory Team Panel. winemaking experience in vintages in Queensland and Formerly winemaker places such as McLaren Vale, Victoria. Completed the at Pirramimma and Western Australia and France. AWRI advanced sensory vintaged at Leoville Has judged internationally course and has associate Las Cases. 15 years (France and Japan), and been judged at McLaren Vale food & beverage an associate or senior judge at Wine Show. experience. more than 20 state and regional wine shows in Australia.82 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tasting Beresford McLaren Peos Estate Four Ambush Hill Zonte’s Footstep Lake Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH Kings Manjimup McLaren Vale Shiraz Doctor Langhorne A nicely maturing, dark Shiraz 2011 HHH 2007 HHH Creek Shiraz Viognier and expressive varietal Perfumed, earthy and Complex, flavoursome 2012 HHH with some warming prune-like aromas and and nicely aged. Still Smells meaty and spicy. alcohol. Has potential! simple cherry berry showing some fruit Long, firm and elegant flavour profile. $24 richness and toasty palate with berry and 5+ $24.90 oak. $24 apricot flavours. $25 Hugo McLaren Vale Morgan Simpson Shiraz Shiraz 2013 Shiraz 2012 HHH Basket Press Blends $25-30 A lingering richness of McLaren Vale Shiraz $25-$30 black fruits here and very 2010 HHH1/2 8 TASTED nicely supported by the This wine is developing 3 TASTED 5 AWARDED oak. 3-5 $24.90 leathery prune-like 3 AWARDED complexity with Fox Gordon Eight spiciness on the nose A small class but with Uncles Barossa Valley and soft and smooth in excellent results, and, as Shiraz 2012 HHH the mouth. $22 one judge commented, These are youthful A pretty peppery nose Firebox Ridge “Australia is very varietal wines built for early and a bright, medium Barossa Valley in its choices but in our drinking with food. Shiraz 2010 HHH early history we had bodied, fresh raspberry A pretty wine with more blends. We now Gumpara Victor’s Old palate. 3-5 $24.95 inky spicy aromas and have an opportunity to Vine Barossa Valley nice floral notes to the bring back some great Shiraz 2013 HHHHJack Estate Shiraz 2011 chocolaty palate. $22 blending opportunities Attractive RibenaCoonawarra & Older Rosenvale Estate as we have seen here”. bouquet and a young,Wrattonbully Shiraz $20-25 Barossa Valley fresh palate with spicy2012 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH Dolan Family Wines oak and sweet plum-Lifted red fruits with 14 TASTED Good oaky aromas lifted Barossa Valley Shiraz like varietal fruit. Verysome mintiness. A tad with florals and spices Grenache Mataro consumer friendly.sweet/sour with firm 8 AWARDED and a savoury mouth 2012 HHHHHtannins. $22 puckering palate. $24 Primary yet complex 3-5 $25Nepenthe Altitude Gomersal Wines style with pretty TurkishAdelaide Hills Shiraz A mixed bag with the Reserve Barossa Delight-like aromas and Taylors Jaraman2012 HHH best wines showing Valley Shiraz a lovely velvety smooth Clare Valley &Light, bright and great style and balance 2010 HHH and flavoursome palate McLaren Vale Shirazspicy and tasting of with velvety texture. The Nicely structured full of great violet and 2013 HHHHraspberries. Good level 2011s were struggling wine that’s a mélange rose-like floral fruit Big hit of chocolate,of acidity. $22 to make sound complex of earthy, spicy, characters. $25 violets and fruit cake onWolf Blass styles and the judges chocolaty and plum-like the nose. Palate is richPresident’s expected more from characters. $24.95 MollydookerTwo Left and dense with primarySelection South the 2010s with some Windowrie Family Feet McLaren Vale esters. Will be very goodAustralia Shiraz already showing forward Reserve Shiraz Langhorne Creek in time. 5+ $29.502012 HHH aged characteristics. 2010 HHH Shiraz CabernetSpicy red berry A firm structured Merlot 2012 HHHH Grampians Estatefruit bouquet with Oldenburg Vineyards style with good fruit/ A bright and attractive Mafeking Grampiansa generous, nicely South Africa Syrah oak balance and laced oak-driven blend that is Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2textured, palate. $22 2010 HHHH1/2 with earthy savoury showing some attractive A vibrant confectionaryClimbing Orange Smells of blackberries elements. $24.99 plum fruit richness fruit style with greatShiraz 2012 HHH and Ribena with good with a nice touch of varietal expression. StillBright youthful style integration of oak earthiness. $28 a callow youth needingwith a floral lift to the and meaty/farmyard more time to really shine.nose and overt violet-like characters. Complexflavour profile. $23.99 palate, nice texture 3-5 $25 with rich dense red fruit flavours and a slight sweetness. $20Ian Mckenzie Drew Noon MW day 4 - judgesNational wine show Master of Wine.judge and former co-chief Owner and Phil Reedman MWwinemaker for Southcorp, winemaker of Master of Wine. Wine and retailSeppelt and Berri Estates. Noon Wines, a industry consultant. FormerlyOver 40 years’ experience specialist boutique product development managerin the wine industry red winemaker. of Tesco stores, responsiblewith more than 30 years Specialising in for Australia, New Zealand andparticipation in the wine cabernet, shiraz and South America. Has judgingshow judging circuit. grenache. experience in the Riverland, Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale wine shows. September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 83

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IXHarcourt Valley Rosemount Pepperjack Barossa Wolf Blass Gold Tenafeate CreekHeathcote Shiraz Estate MV McLaren Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 Label Adelaide Hills Wines Basket Press2013 HHH Vale Shiraz Very attractive red Syrah 2012 HHHH1/2 One Tree Hill ShirazAn attractive ‘feminine’ 2012 HHHH1/2 fruit aromas; lightly Lovely sweet shiraz 2012 HHHHwine with floral violet A lovely richness of perfumed with subtle fruit expression Attractive perfumedaromas and nice oak varietal fruit on the nose floral notes. The long balanced with chocolaty oak/fruit bouquet andtannin influence on the with quite a perfumed creamy palate has spicy oak and soft silky some very good red fruitpalate. $25 lift. The palate is bright, cool climate style of tannins. The nose is inky flavours layered withBaileys of Glenrowan rich and powerful and flavours with some and slightly subdued chocolate and licoriceOrganic Glenrowan still very youthful with alcohol warmth. $29 and the palate is soft characters. $25Shiraz 2013 HHH an abundance of chewy Schulz The Boulevard and rich. 3-5 $28Tight, astringent and very tannins. 3-5 $25 Barossa Valley Shiraz Burnbrae Mudgeeyoung with inky aromas 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHHand greenish tannin A medium weight, Tight stalky aromas withstructure. $27.99 bright and flavoursome nice spicy/peppery lift. shiraz with delightful Plums and berries fill theShiraz 2012 berry fruit expression mouth and are balanced$25-$30 exhibiting nuances of by the toasty oak and rose petals and with a crisp acidity. $2839 TASTED moderate amount of oak. 3-5 $25.99 Patritti Lot Three26 AWARDED Mollydooker The McLaren Vale Shiraz Boxer McLaren Vale 2012 HHHHOverall a strong class Langhorne Creek Described by one judgeof well-balanced and Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 as being “a farmyardflavoursome wines that A popular flavoursome style” with its earthywill be very popular style developing layers dusty characters andwith consumers. “The of chocolaty richness savoury bacon-likebest wines have that on both the nose and notes. Lots of acid.additional textural the palate. The earthyelement of generous red fruit characters have 5+ $28fruit,” noted one judge. a meaty savouriness. Wolf Blass Gold 3-5 $28 Label Barossa Shiraz 2012 HHHH 2 Mates McLaren A good commercial Vale Shiraz wine brimming over 2012 HHHH1/2 Tatiarra Cambrian with red berry fruitGumpara Victor’s Seppelt Chalambar “High drinkability factor Heathcote Shiraz and toasty oak. SomeOld Vine Barossa Grampians Shiraz here,” commented one 2012 HHHH1/2 prunes on the noseValley Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 judge. Has fragrances A generosity of meaty and soft and ripe in the2012 HHHH1/2 Spicy red berry bouquet of berries, spices and fruit and cedary oak mouth. 5+ $28Velvety smooth with a showing a dash of white chocolate and is velvety aromas and an elegantchocolaty bouquet laced pepper. Palate has soft in the mouth with palate that has intense Driftwood Artifactswith blackberries, olives balance and length with loads of slightly porty and concentrated Margaret Riverand vanilla. Dense, oak- an abundance of rich fruit flavours. $29.90 savoury flavours, nice oak Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2driven palate -plenty of flavours and some lovely handling and a good acid An excellent wine -tarry/chocolaty length, toasty oak characters. spine. 3-5 $29.99 elegant yet complexnice fruit sweetness with a lovely mix of darkand good tannins. 3-5 $25 Claymore Dark cherry-like fruit, spicy oak and tight tannins. 3-5 $25 Side of the Moon 3-5 $25 Clare Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHH A flavoursome and very Zonte’s Footstep well-structured wine that Baron Von Nemesis has masses of toasty Barossa Valley oak but also has the Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 star ratings  weight of varietal fruit to Aromas of prunes carry it all. 5+ $25 and soy with leathery/Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of meaty notes and a softexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Kirrihill Vineyard seductive palate. “GoodAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Selection Series winemaking,” said oneprofessionals and are compared in peer Tullymore Clare judge. $25classes by three judges. Valley ShirazCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, 2012 HHHH Gibson The Dirtmana major mail-order business. Aromas of fruit cake and Barossa ValleyCD Cellar door price. prunes with some floral Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2CDO Cellar door only. nuances. The palate is An oaky styleSO Sold out. rich, dense and very but balanced and$N/A Price not available at time of printing. oaky with plenty of flavoursome with what Contact information pg 152. chewy tannins. $25 appears to be old vine fruit. Lovely silky smooth RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). tannins. $29.75For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au84 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tastingCapel Vale Regional Lloyd Brothers Shiraz & Talbots BlockThe Elderton GreenockSeries Mount Estate McLaren Vale Blends Sultan Clare Valley One Barossa ValleyBarker WA Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHH $30-$35 Shiraz 2013 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHH2012 HHH1/2 Subdued varietal fruit A very youthful wine An elegant peppery coolA meaty and prune-like nose with a spicy edge 48 TASTED but has what one judge climate style of shiraznose and a licorice rich and ripe and bright berry 36 AWARDED described as “intensity that has vibrant stalky andfruit palate layered with flavours. $28 A really solid class with and togetherness”. Quite spicy fruit supported by agood toasty oak. Has dependable results. an inky nose and well- soft tannin structure. $30lovely viscosity. $26.95 Reillys Wines Dry “There were a few duds integrated oak and fruit Land Clare Valley but overall it was what characters on the palate. Rosemount EstateGlenwillow Bendigo Shiraz 2012 HHH we expected at this price Needs time! $32 Little Berry ShirazShiraz 2012 HHH Classy oak-driven style with good fruit intensity The Gate by 2012 HHHHPerfumed confectionery with soy, olive and and nice textural Shingleback Floral fruit style witharomas and a tight up- prune-like characters and elements,” concluded McLaren Vale Shiraz lifted aromas and vibrantfront berry palate with nice silky tannins. $29 one of the judges. 2010 HHHH1/2 spicy berry flavours withsweet vanilla oak. $25 Mockingbird Hill A well put together, a slight green edge onHarcourt Valley Shiraz 2011 & Reserve Clare Valley beautifully balanced, a very well-structuredBarbara’s Bendigo Older Shiraz 2012 HHHHH shiraz. Quite complex palate. 3-5 $30Shiraz 2012 HHH $25-30 Spice and red fruit nose with nicely focusedA spicy, confectionery with the oak resembling red and black berry St Hallett Butcher’ssweet, bouquet and a 11 TASTED pencil shavings. The big, fruit characters and a Cart Barossa Valleypeppery cool climate 3 AWARDED long palate vibrates with tight tannic backbone. Shiraz 2012 HHHHpalate. $25 rich beetroot and red Distinct fruit aromasRoss Hill Benny & The judges were not berry fruit flavours. Has 3-5 $34.95 and flavours with aTaylor Orange Shiraz surprised by the difficult lovely fruit sweetness Wynns Black Label slight menthol element.2012 HHH 2011 vintage wines but and ripe tannins. Coonawarra Estate Palate has great lengthSome light spice and expected more from the Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 and balance with goodelegant red fruit aromas superior 2010 vintage 3-5 $30.99 Great nose; still showing tannins. Needs time.and a long, soft, spicy and older wines. From plenty of spicy fruit.palate. $25 2011 the wines have Gilberts Reserve Big powerful palate 5+ $30She-Oak Hill Estate fallen away dramatically Mount Barker WA that has great balanceHeathcote Shiraz bar two exceptions. Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 and structure with Eldredge Blue Chip2012 HHH A youthful and classy mouthfilling cherry cola, Clare Valley ShirazA solid, well-made wine Scarpantoni minty shiraz with an violets, earthy and spicy 2012 HHHHwith peppery aromas and California Road Old understated leafy/floral flavours. $34.90 A very oaky wine butfirm varietal palate. $25 Vine McLaren Vale nose. There is lovely it also has lovely pureBrothers In Arms Shiraz 2011 HHH bright varietal fruit on the Morambro Creek varietal fruit expression.Side by Side A vibrant varietal well-structured palate Padthaway Shiraz The nose is smokyLanghorne Creek fruit nose and a long, that is perfectly framed 2010 HHHH1/2 and toasty and theShiraz 2012 HHH balanced earthy/chocolaty by great oak. $30 “An old school style palate is long and dry.Sweet mulberry nose palate. $25 very well done,” saidand mid-weight palate. one judge. Dense fruit 5+ $30Good length, texture and Tenafeate Creek aromas and big bold usesubtle flavours. $27 Wines Basket Press of oak on the palate but OneTree Hill Shiraz it can carry it. Lovely 2011 HHH mouthcoating flavours. Spicy bouquet and an upfront berry fruit palate 3-5 $31.95 with toasty oak and bright with spice. $25 Reillys Wines Dry Land Clare Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH Nice aged complexity developing. Smells of prunes and has earthy red fruit flavours. $29 September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 85

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IX Oxenberry Star Of Coriole Estate Heartland Greece McLaren Vale Grown McLaren Vale Directors’ Cut Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHH Langhorne Creek Elegant oak and red Tight and textured wine Shiraz 2012 HHH fruit aromas. Good with spicy peppery An oak-driven shiraz that length and definition of aromas and flavours has some richness and red fruit flavours with and chewy tannins. interesting smallgoods an excellent tannin characters. $34.99 structure. $30 3-5 $30 Palmer Margaret Sandalford Estate River Shiraz Hand Crafted Reserve Margaret 2012 HHH1/2 by Geoff Hardy River Shiraz A pretty, lifted, red fruit McLaren Vale Shiraz 2011 HHH nose and a long vibrant 2012 HHH Simple but well put red fruit palate with Good commercial style together with earthy some quite drying oak with lovely soft rich fruit, blue fruits, formidable characters. $30 dusty oak and crisp tannins and big acid Z Wine Rustica acidity. $30 middle. $33.95 Reserve BarossaBlue Pyrenees Peter Lehmann Valley Shiraz Peter Lehmann Hartz Barn WinesReserve Victoria Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Moppa Barossa Barossa GeneralShiraz 2012 HHHH 2012 HHHH Perfumed oak and red Valley Shiraz Store ReserveThere is spice, oak and A very pleasant drink fruit aromas. The full- 2012 HHH Barossa Valleyred fruits on the nose and showing warm spicy flavoured berry palate is Subdued youthful Shiraz 2010 HHHit has a lighter red fruit berry aromas. The palate soft in the mouth and has aromas and a slightly Porty, minty aromas andpalate with hints of dried has plenty of flavour with length and texture. $30 green but quite vibrant big licorice/plum flavourherbs and menthol-like good length, balance and Bremerton palate. $30 impact with solid tanninsnotes. $32 nice texture. $30 Batonnage and bright acidity. $30 The Grapes of Ross Langhorne Creek Sandhurst Ridge Black Rose Barossa Shiraz Malbec Bendigo Shiraz Virgara Adelaide Valley Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH 2012 HHHH The wine has plenty Quite a meaty-like nose Unusual lifted green Plums and berries lift off of length and some with a slight angular, apple skin-like aromas the nose and are spiked complexity developing but bright and complex, and a long simple palate with rich spices. Oak with brooding inky fruit palate. $30 that has it all! $30 obvious on the palate and some classy oak. $32 with good varietal fruit Redgate Margaret Scarpantoni Block 3 Shiraz underneath. $33 River Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 - 2012 Babich Winemakers’ 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHH $35 - $50 Reserve Hawke’s Bay The nose smells quite Lots of oak - attractive Syrah 2013 HHH1/2 earthy and leathery and but dominates the fruit 37 TASTED An elegant wine with has quite a tight and at the moment. Needs 27 AWARDED very fresh and pure leathery palate with a time. 3-5 $30 primary fruit expression long savoury finish. $33 Now we are starting with a nice spiciness. Peter Lehmann Vine Bowen Estate to get serious, with Just needs time. $30 Vale Barossa Valley Coonawarra Shiraz most wines in this price Grove Estate Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 2012 HHH bracket showing their The Cellar Block Fresh vibrant dark cherry Big and rich with spicy mettle from an excellent Hilltops Region aromas with a stalky lift. berry aromas and good 2012 vintage. These are Shiraz Viognier The Cherry Ripe palate varietal palate with great now or will benefit 2013 HHH1/2 has well-selected oak reasonable oak drive. $32 from time in the cellar. A complex and interesting and plenty of acid. $30Fox Creek Short Row wine with spicy herbal Trevelen Farm d’Angelo Estate Saltram MamreMcLaren Vale Shiraz aromas and nice earthy Frankland Reserve Sab’s Langhorne Brook Barossa flavours laced with red Frankland River Creek Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHHHH fruit characters. $30 Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 2012 HHH Lovely length and Hollick Wrattonbully Attractive, intense dark Developed and complex intensity of red and black Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 fruit aromas with well- with some tight red fruit berry fruit characters A lovely deep red wine integrated oak and a and attractive leathery/ here with excellent oak bordering on purple. It pleasant bright red fruit mushroomy notes. $32 selection and integration. has spicy oak and plum palate. $30 Great palate has2012 HHHH fruit with nicely textured, Black Wattle Mt structure and balanceA big oaky number that upfront, tannins. $30 Benson Shiraz with some pleasantis rich and dense and is 2012 HHH alcohol warmth. $40almost purple in colour. It A simple but veryhas smoky/tarry aromas pleasant style withand quite chewy oak generous length offlavours. 5+ $30 cherry berry varietal fruit. $32.9986 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

WORLD’S GREATEST SHIRAZWORLD’S GREATEST SAVINGSSee pg 92 2 MATES MCLAREN See pg 96 LINCHPIN MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ 2012 VALE SHIRAZ 2012 HHHH½ HHHH EQUAL TOP IN CATEGORY “Bold chocolaty black fruit aromas and a well thought out palate “High drinkability factor here,” commented one judge. Has fragrances with warming alcohol and of berries, spices and chocolate and is an intense flavour profile with velvety soft in the mouth.” peppery acidity.” 299 100$ 399 100$ incl. delivery incl. delivery 12 BOTTLES 12 BOTTLES $ SAVE $ SAVE RARE BARREL See pg 104 RAREFIED MCLAREN SHIRAZ 2012 VALE SHIRAZ 2010 LIMITED RELEASE HHHH½ ONLY 200L MADE “A special one-off blend of our three “Mature, solid and powerful; a big awarded Shiraz, each of which includes wine with bright and spicy red fruit on the nose and excellent depth fruit from gnarly 145 year old dry grown Shiraz believed to be some of the of flavour underscored by plenty of acidity. “ oldest vines in McLaren Vale” 299 100$ 450 100$ incl. delivery incl. delivery 6 BOTTLES 6 BOTTLES $ SAVE $ SAVE DELIVERY FREE TO YOUR DOOR*MONEY BACK GUARANTEE |DISTRIBUTOR ENQUIRIES WELCOMETO ORDER:Simply email [email protected] your contact phonenumber (and/or email address) and Jaron will personally call you todiscuss your special order, delivery details and payment options. * Terms and Conditions : (a) Delivery free to addresses to all Australian Capital cities and their suburbs (b) We will fully refund the initial purchase price if you are not fully satisfied with your wine.All cases (11 full bottles and remainder of sampled bottle) must be returned to Ekhidna Wines (address below) via Australia Post Courier within 30 days of receiving. (c) all total of RRP and freight pricing is approximate and averaged for AusFOGGO ROAD, MCLAREN VALE | +61 (08) 8323 8496 | EKHIDNAWINES.COM.AU | 2MATES.COM.AU

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IX Dolan Family Wines Rosenvale Old St Hallett Blackwell x20 Langhorne Vines Reserve Barossa Valley Creek Shiraz Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHH 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHH A real cherry bomb of a A classic old school Attractive minty lift to shiraz but there is also shiraz with a huge hit the spicy cherry aromas a high impact of quality of chocolaty, coffee and and a big, intense, hit oak to match. Also has caramel-like aromas of varietal fruit flavours some subtle chocolaty and spicy warmth in the with loads of white notes. $40 mouth with a lovely mix pepper characters. $39 Barossa Babe by of red and black fruit Rockbare Barossa flavours. $48 Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHH Subtle nose, smells of raspberry lollies. Soft in the mouth with bright fruit flavours that are subtle but well- structured. $45Oakdene William J & J Rivers Blackjack Bendigo Sanguine Inception McGuiganGeelong Shiraz Lane Reserve Shiraz 2012 HHHH Heathcote Shiraz Handmade2012 HHHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz A very good wine with a 2012 HHHH Langhorne CreekA gorgeous youthful 2012 HHHH1/2 pretty fruit nose showing An oaky nose but “very Shiraz 2012 HHHHshiraz. Very lifted A very interesting floral nuances. Great nice oak,” according to This nose is lifted,peppery aromas with style. “Probably not for flavour length and focus one judge. Dark fruit aromatic and leafy andattractive earthy and everyone,” suggested and a subtle tannin and vanilla flavours and there’s some great fruitfloral touches. The one judge. It has structure. $38 a strong tannin finish. on the palate with brighttight clean Rhone-like some powerful meaty Foxeys Hangout Will be very good. acidity that lingers onpalate has very focused complexity, masses of Mornington the finish. $45flavours. Needs more acid, plenty of sweet Peninsula Shiraz 3-5 $39.95 Z Wine Z Juliustime in the cellar. $35 fruit and lots of alcohol 2013 HHHH Ekhidna Linchpin Barossa ValleyGibson Reserve warmth. $35 A very young wine; McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHHHBarossa Valley Shiraz Wolf Blass Grey interesting and very 2012 HHHH A lovely sweet, leafy2012 HHHH1/2 Label McLaren primary. Good texture, Bold chocolaty black bouquet and a ripe,A lovely lean style of Vale Shiraz 2012 bright fruit, firm tannins; fruit aromas and a well soft and nicely oakedshiraz with lifted spicy HHHH1/2 everything in place. It thought out palate with palate showing excellentherbaceous, eucalypt A good clean shiraz. It just needs time. $45 warming alcohol and an flavour intensity andaromas and a bright, is quite a simple style K1 by Geoff Hardy intense flavour profile great structure. $45balanced and well- but it delivers loads of Adelaide Hills Shiraz with peppery acidity. $40structured palate fresh fruit and some 2012 HHHH Farmers Leap Thewith upfront oak and interesting warm sweet A nice flavoursome and Brave Padthawayripe blackberry chocolaty elements and a seamlessly balanced Shiraz 2012 HHHHflavours. $46.20 long lingering finish. $45 wine both savoury and A lovely leafy lift to the sweet at the same varietal nose and a warm star ratings  time with a good powerful palate with confectionery lift to the upfront fruit, plenty ofThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of nose. $35 acid and a good grippyexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. tannin structure. $40All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 152. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au88 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tastingChalkers Crossing Heathcote WineryHilltops Shiraz Mail Coach2012 HHH1/2 Heathcote Shiraz“Any fresher and you 2012 HHHwould have to pick A savoury nose withthe fruit yourself,” sweet soy notes.according to one judge. Warming palate withShows both power and masses of tannins. $35restraint. $35Fromm La Strada Z Wine SectionMarlborough Syrah 3146 Barossa Valley2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHNice complexity of A well put togetherpepper and floral youthful wine with aaromas and a light lean sweet fruit nose and richRhone-style palate flavoursome palate. $35showing excellentfreshness. $39.85 NZ Blackjack BlockCoriole The Soloist 6 Bendigo ShirazSingle Vineyard 2012 HHHMcLaren Vale Shiraz A very spicy aromatic2012 HHH1/2 nose with great lengthClosed inky iodine nose of bright fruit flavoursand nicely textured and firm tannins. $38palate with good fruitintensity and pleasantly Ross Hill Pinnacledrying tannins. $45 Orange ShirazWolf Blass 2012 HHHWhite Label Robe Good example of aMt Benson Shiraz cool climate shiraz withCabernet attractive peppery/spicy2012 HHH1/2 bouquet and vibrantA shy nose with some palate. $40subtle fruit aromas anda warm firm red fruit Shiraz 2011palate that will soften $35 - $50nicely with time. $45 6 TASTED 2 AWARDEDMollydooker Blue The dreaded 2011 vintage Yorke Peninsula’sEyed Boy McLaren reared its head here. The award winningVale Langhorne wines were generally vineyardCreek Shiraz one dimensional bar2012 HHH1/2 two exceptions andA huge, extracted, older congratulations must gostyle smelling of cola to them.and Sarsaparilla with richmouthcoating flavours Heydon EstateThethat last well into the Sledge Margaret Riverfinish. $49 Shiraz 2011 HHHHPertaringa Over the A ‘smart’ wine withTop McLaren Vale good red fruit intensity,Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 some peppery elementsExpressive dark fruit and nice use of charredand big oak nose. Rich oak that doesn’tvoluminous palate overpower. $40with lingering fruit cakeand licorice flavours. Saltram Mamre Brook Barossa Shiraz 5+ $40 2011 HHH A tight inky nose and warming palate with lingering sappy red fruit flavours. $40 September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 89

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IXShiraz & Milhinch Wines Shiraz 2009 Shiraz Sanguine D’OrsaBlends 2010 Seize the Day & Older 2013 - 2012 Heathcote Shiraz$35 - $50 Single Vineyard $35 - $50 $50 - $75 2012 HHHHH Barossa Valley A very complex wine14 TASTED Shiraz 2010 HHHH 8 TASTED 45 TASTED that’s long lingering and7 AWARDED Vanilla oak underlying 2 AWARDED 35 AWARDED seamlessly balanced.The judges were floral fruit aromas with a “There was one stunner,” The intensity was here The nose is all fruit,generally underwhelmed big savoury/sweet palate said the judges but but there were too many pepper and spice withby this group. “Although - nice flavour profile with the non-awarded were youthful wines that some earthiness. Greatthere were some very plenty of fruit length and disappointing. “Too many hadn’t come together to flavour depth on thegood wines there weight. $40 had lost their freshness,” achieve great heights. soft palate with “super”were also some over McLaren Vale III noted one judge. “Some had great, but acidity. $59.95extracted and early Associates The extracted, fruit giving Wicks Estatedeveloped ones.” Descendant of Squid Ridge View a bitter finish that Eminence Adelaide“We expected more Ink McLaren Vale Generations Reserve detracted from the end Hills Shiraz Cabernetvarietal definition here Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley Shiraz result,” said one judge. 2012 HHHH1/2rather than just reds,” Some very pretty 2007 HHHH Sweet rich berrycommented one judge. floral/red varietal fruit Fresh for its age with McLaren Vale III bouquet with some characters here with cedary/leathery aromas; Associates Squid Ink herbaceousness andMilhinch Wines some ‘awesome’ oak. some minerality. Very McLaren Vale Shiraz chocolaty notes. BrightSeize the Day Good for drinking well-balanced palate with 2012 HHHHH fruit palate with goodSingle Vineyard now. $35 cedary characters mixing The nose is loaded with backbone of acid withBarossa Valley Upper Reach with light fruit. $45 sweet vanillin oak that’s masses of fine grainShiraz Cabernet Reserve Swan Valley Milhinch Wines nicely integrated with the tannins that linger on. $602010 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Seize the Day raspberry-like fruit. Good Heathcote WineryAn inky bootpolish and More of an old fashioned Single Vineyard fruit freshness on the Slaughter Houseraspberry bouquet with style of shiraz with spicy Barossa Valley palate with lovely creamy Paddock Heathcotethe cabernet apparent earthy aromas and an Shiraz 2009 HHH texture and some big Shiraz 2012and a big bright fruit impressive massive Ethereal leafy bouquet bold tannins. $55 HHHH1/2attack on the well-defined meaty palate. $35 and soft warm vanilla Very youthful cool climatepalate with excellent Dolan Barossa Valley palate with some green shiraz that has lengthuse of oak and some big Shiraz 2010 HHH notes. $40 and texture. Spices andtannins. $40 Juicy porty aromas and pepper lift off the nose big bold sweet fruit with bright red cherry flavours with drying fruit flavours supported tannins. $45 by a firm tannic backbone. $50Rosenvale Old Parous McLaren ValeVines Reserve Shiraz 2010 HHHBarossa Valley A big smoky oak noseShiraz 2010 HHHH with underlying fruitDeveloped aromas and a drying tannicsmelling of caramel, palate with some fruitcoffee grinds and roasted intensity. $40nuts. Soft and juicy in themouth with plush, well-managed, oak. $3990 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tasting GWD_Winestate_Sept Oct 2014_90x270mm_The Derek Reserve Shiraz 2011_HR.pdf Rosemount Estate Single Vineyard Series McLaren Vale Shiraz Grenache 2012 HHHH1/2 A lovely intense and vibrant wine with very youthful floral aromas emanating from the grenache fruit and leading on to a long, seamless sweet varietal fruit palate. $50Capel Vale SingleVineyard WhisperingHill Mount Barker WAShiraz 2012 HHHH1/2“Wow, what a nose!”declared one judge.“It’s all freshness andcomplexity in one wine.”The palate has power andrestraint - it’s leafy butalso full of whole berryfruit flavours. $54.95 Annie’s Lane Copper Trail Select Parcels Clare Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 An old school “bootstrap and licorice” style of shiraz. A real classic with some lovely varietal fruit and plenty of oak. Lovely and soft and warm in the mouth. $69.99Peter Lehmann VSV Flaxman Estate1885 Barossa Valley Eden Valley ShirazShiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2Fabulously complex Cool climate style. Anshiraz with peppery red interesting nose thatfruit fragrances filling the smells of crushed ants,glass and a palate with cherries and sandalwood.a sweet/sour flavour The palate has prettyprofile and firm assertive intense and vibranttannin drive. Just needs raspberry-like flavourstime. $60 with a dash of pepper. $60 Giesen Clayvin Marlborough Syrah 2012 HHHH1/2 A cool climate classic - very Rhone-like. Big hit of spicy oak on the nose nicely backed up by subtle red fruit. Lovely flavour profile - all minty, earthy and gum leaf-like. $69.99 September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 91

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IXFernandoThe First Murdoch James Hugo Reserve Summerfield Wolf Blass LyndochSpecial Release Single Vineyard Blue McLaren Vale Shiraz Reserve Pyrenees Sapphire LabelBarossa Valley Shiraz Rock Martinborough 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHH Barossa Shiraz2012 HHHH1/2 Syrah 2012 HHHH Big advanced oak-driven A quiet nose with some 2012 HHHA big bold monster of a Spicy nose with an style with Vegemite-like chocolaty complexity. Oaky aromas with subtleshiraz with very pretty excellent rose petal-like characters and showing Good length of fresh red fruits beneath andconcentration of blue fruit lift. Quite a funky palate; some very apparent leafy/spicy flavours. $50 a sweet/savoury, fruit-and violet aromas and very lifted and nicely tannins. $50 Summerfield driven, palate. $70a well-balanced palate balanced with a good line Wolf Blass Brown Pyrenees Shirazintense and ripe without of fruit. $50 NZ Label Classic 2012 HHH Wolf Blass Dorrientoo much heat. $74.99 Summerfield Sahsah McLaren Vale Very complex leathery/ Sapphire LabelGrant BurgeThe Pyrenees Shiraz Langhorne Creek smoky aromas and a Barossa ShirazVigneronThe Natural 2012 HHHH Barossa Valley fabulously balanced 2012 HHHBarossa Valley Shiraz Loads of lovely cool Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 savoury palate. $50 Beetroot and bootpolish2012 HHHH climate-like eucalypt A well-made commercial Roustabout Owner’s on the nose and somePretty spicy blue fruit characters on the red style of shiraz that’s big, Range Mount sweet fruit on the oakyfragrances. Quite fruit nose. Excellent bold and ripe and laced Barker WA Shiraz palate. $70European in style. Lively fruit profile spreads the with plenty of grippy 2012 HHHherbal palate, good acid whole palate length. $50 tannins. $55 Subtle smoky red fruits Shiraz 2011balance and some firm Reillys Wines RCV The Grapes of Ross aroma and a big soft $50 - $75tannins. $50 Pressings Clare Old Vine Barossa palate with an intensePatritti JPB Single Valley Shiraz Valley Shiraz fruit profile. $54.99 8 TASTEDVineyard McLaren 2012 HHHH 2012 HHH1/2 Coriole Scarce 2 AWARDEDVale Shiraz Looks fresh with An oak dominated Earth Willunga 19202012 HHHH seamless integration punters wine with McLaren Vale Shiraz Generally a disappointingOak dominates the nose between cherry/ subtle spicy blue fruit 2012 HHH group with winescreating boot polish/ Sarsaparilla-like fruit underneath and showing Still a closed tight wine showing lean, stalkyleathery characters. and the dusty oak. Has plenty of structure. $70 showing sour plum fruit, under ripe fruit.Excellent flavour depth slight licorice/bootpolish Wolf Blass Moculta balancing acid and bigand concentration - very notes. $65 Sapphire Label tannins. $55 Mr Riggs Scarceoaky at the moment. $50 Wolf Blass St Barossa Shiraz Hemera Limited Earth McLaren ValeSaltram Winemaker’s John’s Ebenezer 2012 HHH1/2 Release Block A Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2Selection Estate Road Sapphire A ‘text book’ shiraz Barossa Valley Cherries and strawberriesGrown Barossa Valley Label Barossa nose - very pretty with Shiraz 2012 HHH mingle with smoky woodShiraz Tempranillo Shiraz 2012 HHHH a classic dense sweet A very pleasant classic aromas. Very good quality2012 HHHH Smells of figs and cherry varietal fruit palate. $70 shiraz nose with good fruit from a difficultInteresting nose showing jam and has a big warm Fox Creek Old Vine sweet fruit intensity on vintage. $50bright red fruits, rose palate with some sweet McLaren Vale Shiraz the palate. $60petals and medicinal fruit balanced by lots of 2012 HHH Seppelt Mount Ida Giesen Clayvincharacters which are acid and a firm tannic An intense young wine Shiraz Heathcote Marlborough Syrahechoed on the warm and finish. $70 with dark deep varietal Shiraz 2012 HHH 2011 HHHsavoury palate. $50 fruit and a big soft tannin A big tannic style that A pretty lifted floral backbone. $50 has attractive subtle bouquet with a fresh, Gumpara Mader aromas and some dense clean, light bodied spicy Reserve Barossa fruit flavours. $60 fruit palate. $69.99 Valley Shiraz Grampians Estate 2012 HHH Streeton Reserve Shiraz & A vibrant oak bomb Grampians Shiraz Blends 2010 with some nice fruit 2012 HHH $50 - $75 underneath and subtle A huge, but well-made, tannins. $50 wine. Slightly resinous 23 TASTED Mr Riggs Scarce nose and a touch porty 17 AWARDED Earth McLaren Vale on the palate. $65 Shiraz 2012 HHH Peter Lehmann VSV The judges found this Nose still closed - Hongell Barossa a very solid group of there’s some oak and Valley Shiraz wines offering lots subtle fruit. Astringent 2012 HHH of freshness and palate. Needs time. Closed and inky on intensity. There were a the nose. Soft and handful of wines that 3-5 $50 ripe in the mouth with were advanced and flavours in the floral/tarry over-developed with spectrum. $60 some oak selection issues involved.92 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tastingGrampians Estate Gatt Barossa Valley Gatt High EdenSt Ethels Grampians Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Eden Valley ShirazShiraz 2010 HHHHH Soft, generous and very 2010 HHHHDusty cherry aromas old school style of shiraz Interesting aromasdeveloping some nice with a vibrant floral - very pretty. Thesecondary characters. The bouquet showing cola- generous palate is silkypalate is young and stylish like touches. The palate soft in the mouth andwith simple raspberry is creamy in the middle loaded with sweet ripefruit characters layered with lovely cola and fruit flavours. $55with chocolaty notes and cherry-like flavours. $55 Glen Eldon Old Vineelegant tannins. $50 Fromm Fromm Series Barossa Valley Vineyard New Shiraz Grenache Zealand Syrah 2010 HHHH 2010 HHHH1/2 Perfumed grenache Lovely light peppery fruit shows through on classic cool climate the nose and the palate aromas with some has generous big spicy Cherry Ripe-like nuances cherry flavours. A very which are echoed on the nice wine. $65 well-balanced palate. Claymore Nirvana Quite Rhone-like and Reserve Clare Valley one for the cellar. $68 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Gumpara Reserve Some lovely ripe sweet Barossa Valley varietal fruit here Shiraz 2010 HHHH balanced with plenty A rich sweet oak-driven of vanillin oak. A good commercial style of commercial style of shiraz with a big oaky lift shiraz. $50 to the nose and smoky Kaesler The Bogan flavours with good level Barossa Valley of tannins. $50 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Loads of chocolate and vanilla characters with a sweet fruit attack. The wine has intensity and freshness. $50 Metala Black Label Original Plantings Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Dark resinous aromas and a well-developed licoricey palate with ripe tannins and a high acid mid-palate. $50Jacob’s Creek Longview The Piece The Bryson BarrelJohann Barossa Adelaide Hills Shiraz Select PadthawayValley Coonawarra 2010 HHHH1/2 Shiraz CabernetShiraz Cabernet A stylish classic; elegant 2010 HHH1/22010 HHHHH and not too sweet. A sweet oaky style“Almost Amarone in Very attractive floral/ underscored withstyle,” said one judge. perfumed intensity to sweet red/blackcurrantLicoricey/ blackcurrant the nose and a generous fruit characters.cabernet fruit is obvious complex palate with nice Will be popular withon the nose. The leafy character to the consumers. $55flavoursome raisined fruit. $70 d’Arenberg The Deadpalate has length and Arm McLaren Valebalance with lots of acid Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2and tannins. $74.99 A classic shiraz nose of red and blue fruits. Some good inky fruit concentration of the drying tannic palate. $60 September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 93

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IXSaracen Estate Shiraz & Grant Burge FilsellMargaret River Blends Old Vine BarossaShiraz 2010 HHH 2010 & Older Valley ShirazVery soft floral nose and $50 - $75 2009 HHHHa plain and simple palate Full bodied style withwith good oak and fruit 16 TASTED some alcohol heat andbalance. $50 13 AWARDED showing nice freshnessSt Hugo Barossa for a 5 year-old. Acid quiteValley Shiraz “A solid class but is that prominent. Lots more life2010 HHH enough at this price,” in it yet. 3-5 $50Smells earthy and dusty asked the judges. At thewith a medium intensity negative end a number Gatt Barossa Valleyfruit palate and big acid of these wines were Shiraz 2008 HHHHmiddle. $51.99 tired and “baked” whilst Spicy aromas with aFox Gordon at the top end there slight spirity lift. TheHannah’s Swing was retained flavour palate is soft and layeredBarossa Valley freshness, fruit intensity with flavours in theShiraz 2010 HHH and balance. sweet/sour profile. ReadyHas vibrancy, warmth for drinking now. $55and a balance of cherryfruit, tight tannins and LongviewThe Piece Geoff Merrill Reserve Lawson’s Padthawaygood acid spine. $59.95 Adelaide Hills Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2005 HHHHGemtree Obsidian 2009 HHHHH 2007 HHHHH Mature mintyMcLaren Vale Shiraz Powerful and rich with a A long, rich and very well- undergrowth-like2010 HHH heady spicy/perfumed structured wine that has aromas. Full bodiedA big ripe chocolaty bouquet. Huge dense aged beautifully. It has a palate with intensenumber that is ageing flavours fill the mouth chocolate box of a nose flavours and firmvery nicely. A good with flavour. The palate and lovely sweet fruit tannin structure. Morecommercial shiraz. $70 is well constructed flavours with an excellent ageing potential. with excellent balance vein of crisp acid and soft between the acid, tannin tannins. $55 3-5 $64.99 and fruit. $70 20-22 FEBRUARY 2015 ADELAIDE CONVENTION CENTRE TICK TOCK WINE’S ON THE CLOCK CellarDoorWineFestival cellardoorfestival.com Only a handful of spots remain to exhibit94 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014 at the 2015 Cellar Door Wine Festival -Adelaide. Reap the rewards of promoting your brand to 9000+ visitors over three days. At the 2014 Festival, visitor experience surveys showed 92% planned to visit a winery featured at the Festival and 72% purchased wine on the day. Don’t wait to book. Contact [email protected] to nd out how you can exhibit in 2015.

varietal tastingThe Bryson Barrel Lloyd Brothers Estate Shiraz & Grant Burge TheSelect Padthaway McLaren Vale Shiraz Blends Vigneron 1887Shiraz Cabernet 2008 HHH 2013 - 2012 Barossa Valley2009 HHH1/2 Solid but simple. No $75 - $100 Shiraz 2012 HHHHHFresh berries and spicy complexity or layers, just “This is a wine that hasoak aromas with lift of masses of flavour and 27 TASTED class and style,” saidmint. Rich savoury palate lots of acid. $50 21 AWARDED one judge. There arehas nice sweet tannin lots of barrel fermenttexture. Drink soon. $55 Gatt High Eden A more impressive characters here but theWicks Estate Eden Valley Shiraz class of big flavoursome lively raspberry varietalEminence Adelaide 2008 HHH wines. “Many of these fruit carries it well. VeryHills Shiraz Cabernet Bright robust shiraz that’s are very young and good structure for its2009 HHH1/2 quite simple but still alive would have scored age. 3-5 $75Simple, sound and and fresh with more life higher had they had anquite mature. Nice left in it yet. 3-5 $55 extra year in the bottle,” d’Arenberg Thespicy/licorice fruit still agreed the judges. Sardanapalianfresh with good tannin Tenafeate Creek “Some of them are all McLaren Vale Shirazbalance. Lingering finish. Wines Judgement ‘arms and legs’ at the 2012 HHHHH OneTree Hill Shiraz moment and need time A dark dense black 3-5 $60 2007 HHH to come together.” peppery style rich withTobin Max Granite Simple but attractive with attractive varietal fruitBelt Shiraz 2009 HHH oak dominating the nose and showing some greatFirm drying style and palate. Quite a sharp solid tannins that give thewith flavours almost acid finish. $70 palate plenty of length.like vintage port with McGuigan Farms Lots of cellaring potentialsupporting acidity. $55 AC-DC Platinum Barossa Valley here. 3-5. $99Warrenmang Estate Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHHHPyrenees Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH A cool climate style2009 HHH A cool climate style of shiraz with intenseAttractive spicy berry evolving nicely with aromas smelling of sweetaromas. Nice big, great quality fruit and berry jam followed by adense, palate with good overall balance. very youthful fruit palatequality fruit. High acidity. with a powerful vein 3-5 $70 of acid and a seamless 5+ $60 tannin structure. $75 September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 95

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IX d’Arenberg The d’Arenberg The Little Rosemount Estate Shiraz 2011 Swinging Malaysian Venice McLaren Vale Balmoral McLaren & Older McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHHH Vale Syrah 2012 HHH $75 - $100 2012 HHHH1/2 Looking quite developed Dark and promising Dark and meaty on the but still has sweet ripe and somewhat simple 17 TASTED nose with pleasant oak fruit and nice oak. Well with very firm tannins and spicy berry touches. put together. “This is and quite low acidity. 12 AWARDED The palate has length drinking well now,” said and poise with great one judge. $99 3-5 $75 There were some tannin structure and just Saltram Marble great examples here the right amount of acid. d’Arenberg Quarry Rd. Barossa particularly from the The Solipstic Valley Shiraz 2010 vintage. However 3-5 $99 Snollygoster 2012 HHH as the judges noted, Fresh and austere and “All wines entered in d’Arenberg Tyche’s McLaren Vale Shiraz a little green with some this category should Mustard McLaren 2012 HHHH very drying tannins. be recommended”. Vale Shiraz 2012 A big but very classy “Winemakers should HHHH1/2 wine with great 3-5 $90 check where their A big solid shiraz with presence. Has some nice d’Arenberg The Fruit wines rate,” suggested masses of oak that berry fruit and attractive Bat McLaren Vale one judge. might be a tad over-the- oak with good tannin Shiraz 2012 HHH top but the berry fruit is structure. 3-5 $99 Masses of oak sitting on robust enough to carry top of intense varietalFox Creek Reserve it and there is plenty d’Arenberg J.R.O fruit but the wine retains Exemplar McLarenMcLaren Vale Shiraz of acid to balance it all. Afflatus McLaren some elegance. $99 Vale Shiraz2012 HHHH1/2 Vale Shiraz d’Arenberg The Eight 2010 HHHH1/2A typically Aussie style 3-5 $99 2012 HHHH Iron McLaren Vale A huge extracted styleof shiraz - it’s big and Matua Single Lovely lifted spicy Shiraz 2012 HHH that’s all molassessweet with plenty of Vineyard Matheson aromatics. Big full Solid wine. Nicely and tar on the nose.warming alcohol. There Syrah 2013 HHHH bodied palate with a maturing ripe fruit Great balance andare intense layers of rich A callow youth with degree of elegance aromas and great depth concentration of honestsweet fruit and powerful bright lifted spicy and refinement. There’s of quality fruit flavours. sweet fruit characterscedary oak. More peppery aromas and zippy acid and crunchy and complimenting oak. a gentle palate with tannins. $99 3-5 $99 excellent balance. Will d’Arenberg 3-5 $85potential. 3-5 $75 mature nicely in time. Seppelt St. Peters The Vociferate Grampians Shiraz DipsomaniacMollydooker 3-5 $70 2012 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz Saltram No. 1Carnival of Love Mollydooker A well-made wine with 2012 HHH Barossa ShirazMcLaren Vale Shiraz Enchanted Path bright lively perfumed The nose is slightly 2010 HHHH1/22012 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz aromas and a simple but closed but palate opens A big full bodied shirazAn excellent example Cabernet 2012 HHHH appealing palate with up to soft full flavours with lovely balanceof an Australian shiraz. Great concentration, nice tannin texture. $75 with some serious and style and a perfectIt has lovely weight and depth and length of tannins. $99 harmony betweenconcentration of varietal bright berry varietal d’Arenberg The Other d’Arenberg The Blind the fruit, oak and acid.fruit giving the palate fruit characters with Side McLaren Vale Tiger McLaren Vale “It has it all, and inan excellent depth of balancing spicy oak and Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHH abundance,” enthusedflavour. Some oak, some a tannic finish. $75 An inky wine packed Quite a savoury and one judge. $85tannins. 3-5 $75 with generous sweet leaner style with very fruit and seriously firm tannins and high grippy tannins. Should level of alcohol. $99 Ekhidna Rarefied evolve nicely with time. McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 3-5 $99 Mature, solid and powerful; a big wine star ratings  d’Arenberg The with bright and spicy Sisypheanic Euphoria red fruit on the noseThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of McLaren Vale Shiraz and excellent depth ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2012 HHH1/2 flavour underscoredAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry A big heavy monster by plenty of acidity.professionals and are compared in peer with European-like Slightly clipped finish.classes by three judges. Hessian notes. “It’sCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, getting there,” said one 3-5 $90a major mail-order business. judge. Just needs moreCD Cellar door price. time. $99 Saltram MocultaCDO Cellar door only. Road VineyardSO Sold out. Barossa Shiraz$N/A Price not available at time of printing. 2010 HHHH1/2 Contact information pg 152. A very appealing fruit-driven shiraz that RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). smells of raspberry andFor a complete list of what we tasted spices and has a tightlyplease refer to www.winestate.com.au structured palate that is absolutely packed with flavour. High level of acidity. 5+ $9096 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tastingSaltram No. 1Barossa Shiraz2009 HHHH1/2Stylish and classy with“Everything that’snice,” according to onejudge. Lovely nose ofripe warm berries andspices. Palate showsopulent oak with thefruit to back it. $85Tilly Devine Queen Hemera JDRof the Night Barossa ValleyMcLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHHH2008 HHHH1/2 “A very nicely put-Nose exhibits nicely together wine,” said onematuring fruit aromas judge. Oak a tad overtand the palate is loaded for now. Has licoriceywith a heavy syrupy fruit, high acidity andconcentration of flavours nice tannin structure.that would appeal tomany. Ready for drinking 3-5 $80now. $75Exemplar HeathcoteShiraz 2010 HHHHVery oaky on the nosewith a subtle line offruit. Oak also tends todominate the flavours too,but there is a good depthof fruit. 3-5 $85 Palmer Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 Lean and quite spicy and what one judge declared is, “A great effort for the vintage”. Good tannins and acidity. 3-5 $75 Sandalford Prendiville Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 “A plain Jane but it works,” said one judge. The nose has a herbal freshness, the palate is soft and generous. 3-5 $90Lloyd Brothers WhiteChalk McLaren ValeShiraz 2008 HHHHA big, generous andwell-made wine smellingof molasses and blueberries with a soliddense palate that hasgreat flavour depth. $80 September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 97

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IX GWD_Winestate_Sept Oct 2014_90x270mm_Normans Old Vine Barossa Greenock Shiraz 2011_HR.pdf 1 7/07/2014 9:30 am Palmer Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2010 HHH Very young and oak dominant. “Do not drink yet,” advised one judge. Needs lots more time. 5+ $75 Shiraz 2012 - 2010 $100 - $200 15 TASTED 15 AWARDED Here we begin the Songlines Estate pointy end of our McLaren Vale Shiraz judging, where we 2011 HHHHH expect a lot from these “Remarkably good for a figure wines and in this 2011 wine,” commented case they delivered. one judge. It has simple We expect flavour, berry fruit characters finesse and attention to with some classy oak detail in oak handling handling, very good and acid balance. tannin structure and alcohol ripeness. Bird in Hand Nest Egg Mt Lofty Ranges 3-5 $110 Shiraz 2012 HHHHH A beautiful youngster Glen Eldon Munari that’s got the lot and Black Lady Barossa just needs time to settle Heathcote Shiraz down. “Smells great,” 2012 HHHH1/2 said one judge. All fresh Some very appealing berries and spice. Loads sweet blackcurrant of oak on the palate but and berry-like fruit here also has loads of fruit. supported by powerful oak and showing some 5+ $110 eucalypt notes. Good balance, good tannins just Bird in Hand Nest wait a bit! 3-5 $120 Egg Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Tenafeate Creek “Some real class here,” Wines Judgement noted one judge. Great One Tree Hill Shiraz cool climate style with 2010 HHHH1/2 a very minty nose and Described by one an impressive quality judge as, “A big, solid, fruit palate with lovely in-your-face shiraz”. savoury notes. Long Powerful and alcoholic term proposition. with intense dense fruit showing attractive earthy 5+ $129 elements and a high level of acidity. $10098 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014

varietal tasting Pertaringa The DWPAR14437 Yeoman McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Poised and intense with a dense nose that resembles coal tar with some nice berry intensity. Big warming alcoholic palate loaded with sweet fruit and showing excellent length. $195 Saltram The Journal Centenarian 100 Year Old Vine Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHHH Impressive appearance - lovely deep youthful hues. Very good berry fruit/oak nose and lovely big deep palate with hugePeter Lehmann tannins. 3-5 $120Stonewell BarossaValley Shiraz 2010 McLaren Vale IIIHHHH1/2 Associates GiantRipe aromas; smells Squid Ink McLarenlike dark berry jam. A Vale Shirazfirm palate with loads 2010 HHH1/2of classy oak but has Maturing cedar/cigar boxthe same level of classy aromas. Nice palate -fruit and some lovely good depth of fruit withripe tannins. Ready for a high level of acidity fordrinking now. $100 a long life. $150E Guigal Brune & Cable Bay ReserveBlonde De Guigal Waiheke IslandCôte-Rôtie Syrah Syrah 2010 HHH1/22010 HHHH1/2 A nice peppery coolA very peppery cool climate shiraz; it hasclimate-like bouquet poise and class and iswith a slight herbal/ packed with flavour.oaky character. Very Good structure for itsimpressive palate age. $100 NZweight; sits beautifully Gatt Old Vinewith lovely subtlety of Barossa Valleytannins. 3-5 $115 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Smells herbal withPenfolds St. Henri asparagus-like notes.Australia Shiraz The palate is almost2010 HHHH1/2 pinot-like in its eleganceA gorgeous purple wine with tons of oak flavour.that has elegance andstyle and a huge depth 3-5 $100of bright ripe sweet Elderton Commandfruit - very impressive. Single VineyardIt has balance, Barossa Valleylength and plenty of Shiraz 2010 HHHpersistence. $110 Massive oak, mature berry fruit and plenty of acidity. “Seriously all there,” said one judge. $110 www.parous.com.au September/October 2014 W I N E S TAT E 99

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE IX The Colonial Bird in Hand Nest Estate Mungo Park Egg Adelaide Hills Single Vineyard Shiraz 2009 HHHH Barossa Valley A generous, honest Shiraz 2011 HHH wine typical of the 2009 A very good wine for vintage with underlying the vintage. Smells spiciness and coal tar of rhubarb. Attractive characters. Full-bodied palate. Good tannin palate with plenty of structure. 3-5 $110 acid. $139 Shiraz & Gralyn Estate Blends Reserve Margaret 2009 & Older River Shiraz $100 - $200 2009 HHH1/2 Nice lift of cracked 6 TASTED pepper on the nose 5 AWARDED and a soft, full-bodied, fresh fruit palate with With the older prestige seamless length. Drink wines it is important now. $120 that freshness and vibrancy of fruit and Shiraz & Clayfield Grampians oak is maintained and Blends Shiraz 2002 HHHHH these wines are a good $200+ A mature elegance of example of this. berries and spices on 11 TASTED the nose. Palate still Saltram The Journal appears youthful with Centenarian 100 9 AWARDED Year Old Vine Barossa Shiraz 2009 A great class of superb intense spicy berry HHHH1/2 wines, as was to be flavours. The palate is A serious and mature expected at this price. not particularly big but it inky nose with lingering “Wines with class has beautiful depth and cigar box aromas. Has and lots of personality balance. 5+ $375 good fruit ripeness on show through here and an impressive palate the judges expressed with a high level of their preferences acidity. Needs time in across the line,” the cellar. $120 summed up one judge.Come and vsit us Grant Burge Wolf Blass Platinum at the Meshach Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Valley Shiraz 2009 A superb cooler Hong Kong HHHH1/2 climate style of shiraz International Slightly raisined showing a magnificent,Wine and Spirits characters on the nose luscious, ruby-like colourFair 6-9 November - smells quite mature and an impressive and leads on to a huge concentration of berry Adelaide Office: warming alcohol palate fruits supported by 31 King Street exhibiting an absolute some very well-handled Norwood mountain of fruit oak. $200 flavours. $180p/ +612 8 8232 1540 Penfolds Grange Grant Burge South Australia Meshach Barossa Shiraz 2009 HHHHH Valley Shiraz 2008 An excellent example HHHH1/2 of style. “It has a rich The Colonial Estate A massive wine with and powerful presence,” In Exile Barossa huge molasses and noted one judge. Mature Valley Shiraz cedar-like aromas and cedary oak/berry jam Cabernet a big, deep, full-bodied aromas on the nose and 2011 HHHHH palate showing excellent a blockbuster of a palate One judge described varietal fruit quality with impressive fruit this wine as having, with some quite sharp quality. 3-5 $899 “Pepper and spice and acidity. $180 everything nice”. Lots of spicy oak on the nose with a refined and elegant palate that is still quite tight. Good length and texture. $220100 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2014