Winestate Magazine March April 2022

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE &Chardonnay Love Blends 99 tasted AT FIRST SIP Wines of NSW Brockenchack Wines Barossa Passion 123 tasted r o a dt ht oe Barossa Valley greatness & Eden Valley paulmara estate’s 114 tasted journey to wine of the year March/April 2022 OF THE Vol 45 Issue 2 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) The Reinvention NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 of Grant Burge US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Chardonnay & Blends • Wines of New South Wales • New Releases Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • (NZ) Recent Releases

You can take the wine out of the bottle, but you can’t take the Artisan out of the wine. Artisan collection by Grandeur Wellington 201 Blewitt Springs RD, McLaren Flat, South Australia 5171 www.grandeurwellington.com.au

NO.312 MARCH/APRIL 2022 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing & Sales Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (02) 7618 2945 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Berlinda Conti Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. phone +61 8 8357 9277 or Copyright 2022 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, on-line www.winestate.com.au reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 3

contents MARCH/APRIL 2022 R E G U L A R S 8 Briefs 32 16 NZ Briefs 18 European Report with Sally Easton FEATURES 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King 24 LOVE AT FIRST SIP 36 Grapevine From the shores of Queensland's 74 Aftertaste Sunshine Coast to the beautiful W I N E TAST I N G S Barossa Valley, Brockenchack Wines owner Trevor Harch always 42 Wines of New South Wales knew he would lay his hat and 50 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley claim in this world-renowned wine 56 Chardonnay & Blends region, writes Nigel Hopkins. 62 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases 28 THE ROAD TO GREATNESS As Winestate's 2021 Australian 24 66 New Releases and Best Value Wine Of The Year and Cabernet Buys under $20. Sauvignon Of The Year award recipient, Paulmara Estate has truly forged a reputation for producing exceedingly great wines. 32 BURGE OF THE BAROSSA The name of Grant Burge has had an interesting history to date, writes Nigel Hopkins. Selling and buying back three times, the winery at which he made his reputation, the future is bright again for the reinvention of Burge Barossa and the next generation. For a complete list of what we tasted for this 28 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Winestate Magazine Issue Number 312 March/April 2022 Cover image mikhailkayl 4 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

The rebel with a cause, Plums & Roses wines are spontaneous yet skillfully crafted blends that make them the ultimate crowd-pleasers. Carefully selected grapes from the world-renowned Mildura and Riverland regions are blended to create drops with harmony and serious presence, with a tune for every occasion. VARIETY RRP Sauvignon Blanc $22.00 Pinot Noir $22.00 GSM $22.00 CPVM $22.00 SSS $22.00 { A TUNE FOR EVERY OCCASION | Trade and NSW Distributor contact: Distributor contact: Kim O’Hara Bouchon Wines & Spirits Periscope Management 16 Prospect Street, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 Mob: +61 421 077 344 Tel: +61 07 3854 0407 [email protected] [email protected] Distributor contact: Distributor contact: Claret & Co | Scott Teasdale Unique Wine Solutions | Stephen Nankervis 13 View Street, Subiaco WA 6008 PO Box 106, Port Melbourne Vic 3207 Mob: +61 447 087 998 Mob: +61 414 388 046 [email protected] [email protected]

BE PART OF WHERE THE WORLD IS GOING In our ever-changing world, imagine how empowering it would be to take control of your finances and discover the latest trend in buying, selling and saving. Like a good wine with your favourite dish, Qoin digital currency is the perfect pairing for your business. Qoin will open an exciting new world for you to explore. It is innovative, progressive and easily transactional. Visit qoin.world to find out more qoin.world

editorial “MAY YOU LIVE IN INTERESTING TIMES” COULD BE THE ULTIMATE CURSE. To paraphrase this quote, we could add “be careful what you wish for”. At the time of writing this editorial (early February 2022) it seems that boundaries have opened up around the world. This to save economies, hospitality, tourism and freedoms, not necessarily to save lives. No judgement is made on this either way, it’s a difficult balancing act. How will this affect the wine industry and wine consumer? There is no doubt that times have been very tough for wineries and grape growers alike with normal wine outlets shut down or reduced to survival mode. The opening up will certainly help to bring back a “new normal” but what that looks like is hard to predict. On a positive note, Australian and New Zealand drinkers have never had it so good with prices crashing across the board, even with previously out of reach highly priced wines. During this period online retailers and even wineries direct-to-consumer online sales has increased dramatically and this competition has driven down prices. We feel for wineries who are breaking even or losing money and also for grape growers who may not be doing a vintage this year or a reduced vintage for lack of buyers. What can we do about it? My view is that right now is the time to stock up for much more wine to put away for the next few years. Not only will you be helping yourself in terms of bargains, but you will have some lovely wines that you can look forward to in the future. But more importantly during this desperate period for the wine industry you will help to clear the supply bubble and help wineries, hospitality, tourism and grape growers. If we do our bit, it will certainly help. In this issue we are pleased to offer the following tastings to help you choose which wines to buy. Wineries have put their reputations on the line with our comprehensive blind judgings and we urge you to reward them with purchases. If their products are not available at your favourite store you can always go direct to the winery online. I am sure they will welcome you with open arms. We kicked off with a wide brush judging of wines from NSW, from the warmer river regions in the south to the cool climate region of Cowra, Orange, Mudgee and Southern Highlands in the south, along with the legendary Hunter also involved. It was a great diversity of regions and varieties with each putting their hands up for acclaim. Our next regional judging was Barossa and Eden Valley perhaps vying with the Hunter for Australia’s best-known region. Over the past few years, with the help of China, Barossa rose to the forefront for Australia’s most expensive and flavousome reds. That is problematic now but a great opportunity for locals to now see these wines that are coming home, often at greatly reduced prices. Snap them up while you can. For our style judging we reviewed chardonnay, the queen of whites, with a nice range of wines across all price points. We have often said that chardonnay is putty in winemaker’s hands where their true craft can be shown with this variety more than any other white. Finally, our usual judging of fine new release wines from all regions is included along with Michael Cooper’s top picks from across ‘the ditch’. We are also pleased to feature some really interesting stories about three Barossa wineries that we enjoyed profiling. Although we couldn’t for various reasons get across a NSW winery story this time I am sure we will do so in the future. Firstly, we are delighted to show the story of Grant and Helen Burge, Barossa icons and their revitalization through their family to create a new era under the Burge Barossa group; Corryton Burge and Barossa Boy. They have a long relationship with Winestate which we greatly respect. Back in the 80’s we were the first to feature Grant and Ian Wilson on the cover under the Burge and Wilson brand as the innovative young face of wine. Unfortunately, I called them the “up and coming young Furks” instead of Turks. I redeemed myself in the 90’s when I featured Grant on the cover in his bright red jacket where we anointed his Meshach as the “next Grange”. This caused a huge amount of controversy at the time. It was well founded as the wine had just featured in the Winestate Barossa blind judging, outscoring both Grange and Hill of Grace. A bit later we also gave a leg up to Hill of Grace when we did a vertical judging of 20 years of Grange & Hill of Grace (but that’s another story). Next comes Brockenchack wines, an interesting story of reverse transition. Normally we hear of people from the southern states heading to Queensland for retirement but this time successful Queensland construction owner, Trevor Harch, and his partner Marilyn, decided to set up a winery in the Barossa. This was “in retirement, sort of,” says Trevor. This shiraz fanatic found his touch of paradise and now has three of his four grandchildren working with him in the business. Read on. Paulmara has a fine connection with the famous Grange name. Owner Paul Georgiardis, former grower relations manager with Penfolds and his partner Mara (surprise, surprise) have combined to make an elite winery in the Barossa. His long experience was critical in site selection and the appointment of expert winemaker Jason Barrette was the final link in the puzzle to produce the Apotigi 2018 Cabernet which was awarded the prestigious 2021 Winestate Australian Wine of the Year title. As usual lots to like in this issue; to read, to taste and to enjoy. Cheers! Peter Simic Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Editor/Publisher Your wine, Major Sponsors and Supporters our ports. Australia Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com 7 March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E

briefs Wills Domain one of the state's most talked-about restaurants. Cherubino is widely acknowledged as one of Australia's finest wine makers and entrepreneurs. The 50-seat restaurant features a contemporary à la carte menu as well as an informal grazing menu. See www.fruimomento.com.au/ CALABRIA’S A LEGEND BETTER BARRACKS LUXURY STAY BILL Calabria AM has been recognised as the 2021 Riverina TRIABUNNA, a pretty fishing town on Tasmania's east coast that Legend at the Riverina Wine Show. is the perfect base for exploring the region’s wineries, has a new tourism drawcard with the recent opening of the redeveloped 1840s Second-generation winemaker Calabria, who once fought as a Heritage-Listed Triabunna Barracks and Stables. professional boxer, has been a notable figure in the Riverina since first working for the family’s winery (formerly known as Westend) After five years of re-development, Triabunna Barracks was at the age of 14. officially opened as luxury visitor accommodation. In 2013, he was made a Member of the Order of Australia for his Vacant for over 50 years, the Barracks and Stables were once significant service to the industry. on the brink of collapse. NSW Wine Industry Association president Mark Bourne said: “This Now the sandstone and timber buildings have been totally deserved recognition of Bill’s accomplishments is borne from his transformed. Each large suite features its own kitchenette, luxury passion, innovation and commitment to the Riverina, New South bathrooms, quality fittings and heated floors. Wales and Australian wine industry over many years. Triabunna Barracks is located adjacent to the marina in Triabunna “We look forward to the exciting future for Bill and the entire and EV charging is available for guests. Calabria family as they continue to play a significant role in the prosperity and growth of the Riverina for generations to come.” The accommodation is close to the Maria Island ferry, local hotels, shops, butchers, and supermarkets. The Riverina Legend award first launched in 2019 as part of the Riverina Wine Show. Bill Calabria joins Les Worland (2019) and Activities include visiting local wineries and distillery, bushwalking Jim and Keith McWilliam (2020). on Maria Island, fishing charters and whale watching (in season). TIME TO ENJOY THE MOMENT Triabunna Barracks is a 70-minute drive from Hobart via the Tasman Highway and ideally located to be a base for exploring TWO of Western Australia's highest- the island state's beautiful east coast. profile wine and food leaders have joined forces to open a new Accommodation, with breakfasts, at The Loft, The Bakery and The restaurant in the heart of Margaret Quarters start from $450 per night. You can also rent the entire property. River wine country. Triabunna Barracks is at 3 Charles Street, Triabunna, Tasmania 7190. Chef Seth James and winemaker Call 0414 186939. Larry Cherubino are the men behind Frui Momento ('Enjoy the Moment') IT’S ALL ABOUT EWE! at former Laurance Wines site on Caves Road in Wilyabrup. FORMER wine industry sales rep Nicole Gilliver is now a leading name in the world of sheep cheese products. The new restaurant will also have a raw bar and Champagne lounge, Diane Rae and her children: Gilliver and Ryan Hartshorn where visitors can drop by for started off with a family sheep farm producing a range of bubbles and caviar. gourmet cheeses under the Grandvewe label. Seth James has, for the past eight years, been responsible for making Then Hartshorn began using sheep's whey as a key ingredient in a range of artisan spirits as part of his Hartshorn Distillery range of gins and vodkas. And now Nicole, a former area manager for Negociants, is behind Australia’s first sheep milk skin-care range, handcrafted in Tasmania. Ewe Care is crafting skin-care products from a range of Tasmanian natural 8 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

briefs ingredients including Cape Grim water and Tasmanian Mountain walking distance to Surry Hills and Darlinghurst, Kimpton Pepperberry Extract. Margot Sydney is in a prime location. Rates will start from $350. See www.kimptonmargotsydney.com \"The functional benefits of sheep milk have been celebrated for centuries - it is used in ointments and lotions to heal wounds and WINE AUSTRALIA WELCOMES NEW BOARD scarring,” says Nicole. “The anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial MEMBERS properties help to reduce redness and breakouts and make it ideal for use on sensitive skin. WINE Australia has new non-executive directors appointed to its board until September 30, 2024. \"A high natural fat content makes sheep milk a wonderfully nourishing moisturiser that not only helps reduce wrinkles and fine The two new directors, John Lloyd and Justin Brown, will join lines but provides essential antioxidants via vitamins like A, C, D reappointed directors Cath Oates, Catherine Cooper, Frances- and E, as well as AHA — a gentle, natural exfoliant that helps to Anne Keeler and Mitchell Taylor. brighten and rejuvenate the skin. \"With no Australian brands working within the sheep milk skincare space, we saw an opportunity to not only fulfil a functional skincare need but to work with Awassi sheep farms across Tasmania to celebrate the full potential of this valuable ingredient. \"Our business has always had a very strong foothold in sustainability, even before it was a marketing term. As a means of expressing this, we started a distillery business some six years ago that set about solving the problem of turning our biggest waste product, whey, into some of the country’s finest vodka and gin.\" Every aspect of the Ewe Care packaging - from our cream sachets to the boxes they arrive in - is compostable. Ewe Care, Grandvewe Cheeses and Hartshorn Distillery are in Birchs Bay - 40 minutes south of Hobart. For bookings and a range of on-site experiences visit https://ewecare.com.au/ EXCITING NEW HOTEL FOR SYDNEY Chair of the Wine Australia Board Dr Michele Allan said, “It’s a critical time for Australian wine and these six appointments SYDNEY’S newest luxury hotel opened on February 1. The combine the necessary skills to represent the needs and interests space formerly occupied by the Primus Hotel has been given of our sector. a complete makeover and the promo blurb says the Kimpton Margot Hotel will be the “city’s most exciting hotel development “Based in New South Wales, John Lloyd was the CEO of of the decade”. Horticulture Innovation Australia for 10 years, steering the peak research and marketing body through major changes and Previous guests will remember how beautiful the building is tremendous growth for the sector. with its 1930s vibe but the Kimpton, with celebrity chef Luke Mangan on board, promises a range of new experiences both “Justin Brown, based in the Australian Capital Territory, has vast for guests and anyone wanting to wine and dine. experience in trade and market access issues, notably as a trade negotiator, pursuing, protecting, and promoting market access Kimpton Margot Sydney has a partnership with Lekker bikes opportunities for Australian industry on a day-to-day basis. and has mapped out the best of Sydney on wheels. Guests are free to just take some wheels and explore the city streets and “Their knowledge and skills will be of great benefit to the Board. nearby Hyde Park at their leisure. Particularly in the current trading environment, as we focus on positioning the sector for growth and profitability, market Away from the bustle of Pitt Street are 172 spacious rooms and diversification and innovative techniques that help tackle everyday suites – most with bathtubs. The walls will feature whimsical wall vineyard or winery challenges.” art from global artists – close to 600 in all. The rooftop swimming pool is surrounded by a terrace, conference, and event spaces The outgoing directors are Brian Croser AO and Dr Mary while Luke’s Kitchen will have a menu curated by Mangan. Retallack, both of whom served for six years. Cellar By Luke will highlight a unique wine experience, where guests can dine on daily culinary curations surrounded by walls of Australian and International wines. Also set amid the Art Deco decor will be the 1930’s-style The Wilmot Bar, which will offer a range of cocktails. Located in the heart of Sydney’s “south-side”, just down from the State Theatre and the QVB and close enough to be within March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs NEW CHEF FOR SAFFIRE FREYCINET Strength - feature ingredients sourced from all over the country, some grown exclusively for the distillery. PADDY Prenter is the new executive chef at ultra-luxe Hickson House is the realisation of years of planning by Mikey Ta s m a n i a n re s o r t S a ff i re Enright and Julian Train, founders of award-winning Barrelhouse Freycinet, where Tasmanian Group, the team behind The Duke of Clarence and The Barber wines and spirits are highlighted, Shop. They are joined at Hickson by head distiller Tim Stones. alongside local ingredients. Hickson House Bar & Kitchen is open 4pm-midnight Tuesday- It is native Tasmanian Prenter's Wednesday; noon-midnight Thursday-Saturday and noon-10pm first gig in charge of a major on Sundays. Bookings can be made online. kitchen, and he succeeds big names in the likes of Hugh Hickson House Distillery hosts one-hour tour and tasting Whitehouse and Iain Todd. experiences Thursday-Sunday at noon, 1.30pm, 3pm and 4.30pm. Cost is $40pp, with a 10% discount on purchases from the Spirit Prenter has spent the past few Store. For details see www.hicksonhouse.com.au. years sucking up knowledge from some of the best kitchen COOPERS IMPORTS NEW TOKYO BREW operatives in the country. AUSTRALIAN beer lovers have a new Japanese import to Launceston born, he started sample with Yebisu Premium being imported from Tokyo by working as a junior in Hobart the Coopers Brewery team. venue The Grape. He visited south-east Asia, Japan, and With a history dating back to 1890, Yebisu is made exclusively South America as a tourist, taking in Japan. several culinary ideas with him along the way. It is brewed adhering to the Reinheitsgebot, the historic Bavarian On his return to Australia, he worked for Andrew McConnell at Purity Law, to deliver a rich malty beer experience but it still has venues like Cumulus Inc and Supernormal. that characteristic Japanese freshness and liveliness on the palate. After coming back to Tasmania, he worked at Westend Pumphouse, Post Street Social, Frogmore Creek, Tom McHugo's The 500-year-old purity law stipulates that only three and Franklin before landing at Saffire three years ago. ingredients can be used: water, malt, and hops. Yeast is the Now he has the pressure cooking at the most exclusive restaurant in Tasmania, where you either need to be a house guest to dine or fourth ingredient that is now allowed. know someone who knows someone. Yebisu brand manager Chris Levey \"I know the venue well, I know the clientele well and I also know says Japanese beer continues to the best local producers who can provide the ingredients I am ‘premium-ise’ the beer category and looking for,” says Prenter. “We will be trying to source everything grow in popularity with Australian as local as possible using the relationships I have built up.\" drinkers. There are degustation and a la carte menu options, with all dietary “Yebisu is a symbol requirements catered for. of Japan’s unwavering For full details see https://saffire-freycinet.com.au/ commitment to quality and craft, meeting the HICKSON HOUSE ON THE ROCKS intersection of Australian drinkers’ desire for THE historic Rocks district in Sydney has a new drinks and dining exploration and discovery drawcard with the recent opening of Hickson House with a distillery, and their attraction to true bar, and kitchen in a heritage warehouse. originals and authenticity,” he said. The distillery’s stills and barrels sit alongside a bar and dining space, overlooked by a more intimate mezzanine cocktail lounge, the High & Dry Bar. The space’s centrepiece is the soaring back bar, home to over 600 bottles from all around the globe, with a strong focus on Australian- made spirits, including obscure whiskies and the distillery’s own Hickson Rd Gin, the first of many spirits to be distilled at Hickson House. A whisky and other bespoke spirits are in the pipeline while the range of Hickson Rd gins - Australian Dry, London Dry and Harbour 10 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

briefs offers a refined space to enjoy afternoon tea or a light lunch in a setting that spills out onto a terrace overlooking Parliament Square. For more information visit www.thetasmanhobart.com. TRIP THROUGH TIME WITH THE TASMAN CUNNING AS A FOX THE hottest gourmet address in Hobart right now is the new AUSTRALIA has its own pre-dinner drink with Three Foxes Distillery Tasman Hotel, part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection. The Tasman in Melbourne having released Australia’s first certified organic showcases Hobart, a destination steeped in rich history and aperitivo: Sunny Arvo. The recent release is designed to be enjoyed Australia’s second-oldest capital city. on the rocks or in a spritz and weighs in with just 16% alcohol. There was some smart work in the lead-up to the opening with “With Sunny Arvo we wanted to provide an Aussie alternative to The Tasman snapping up some of the state’s key hospitality talent international liqueurs and aperitifs,\" says Three Foxes head distiller in chef Massimo Mele, sommelier Michael Fisher and bar manager and co-founder Sarkis Karakis, a fourth-generation distiller. Ronan Kavanagh. The building itself is a delightful blend of old and new – with a range of room styles to suit all tastes. \"For us, it was about curating an experience that brought Australians together socially, sharing a good laugh over palate- Centrally located within the restored heritage area of forward drinks and tasty sharing plates.” Parliament Square – overlooking Hobart’s historic waterfront – The Tasman is just steps away from the city’s famous Salamanca To create Sunny Arvo the Three Foxes team used their own Markets, St David’s Park, and historic Sullivan’s Cove. organic alcohol, infused with rosella, the herbaceous plant safflower, and a variety of berries. The Tasman is an elegant heritage reconstruction of former state government offices that brings together three eras of These are blended with orange brandy distillate, hibiscus, blood design: Georgian, Art Deco, and contemporary. The site orange, and gentian spirit with cinnamon and citrus bitters. contains buildings spanning 180 years. “We’ve always made our drinks from actual fruits and botanicals, The Tasman offers 152 guest rooms and suites and the hotel’s sourced from farms, not factories,\" says Karakis. \"All our flavours Art Deco rooms date back to 1937. The 108 square-metre are made in-house by a combination of steeping, distilling, and Aurora Suite has panoramic views of Hobart’s waterfront and blending, so it was an easy pivot for us. city skyline as well as a massive entertainment terrace, perfect for hosting private events. \"Getting the certification just makes it official, so we don’t have to hide around words like natural etc.” The Tasman features three distinct epicurean experiences highlighting and celebrating the best of Tasmanian produce Three Foxes are also planning to release a non-alcoholic version and cuisine. to be called Sunny Arvo Organic Noperitivo in the new year. Available at www.threefoxes.com.au. At Peppina, the hotel’s signature restaurant, renowned Tasmanian chef Mele combines his passion for championing local producers and quality ingredients, while Mary Mary is an intimate craft cocktail bar and spirit library and the Deco Lounge March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs BALGOWNIE ESTATE REOPENS Based in Dijon, close to the Côte d’Or vineyards, the institution is part of the Burgundy School of Business (BSB). ONE of the Yarra Valley's major tourism drawcards has re- opened after devastating fires in the middle of 2020. Balgownie It said the MSc in sustainable wine tourism and gastronomy will Estate Yarra Valley has unveiled the opening of its brand-new be taught in English and reflects, \"strong demand from companies restaurant, cellar door and function rooms as part of a multi- for managers capable of accompanying them in their transition to million dollar rebuild. sustainable development\". Balgownie Estate’s new restaurant, 1309@Balgownie takes its Wine tourism is still viewed as a major growth area for wineries name from the winery’s address and features dishes curated and wine regions over the long-term, despite the economic impact by Grant Flack and Beth Candy. There is a new cellar door, of Covid-related travel restrictions in the past two years. function area and outdoor deck bar overlooking the Dandenong Ranges. The new restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and The new course is open to any French or international student dinner seven days a week. with an existing Bachelor’s degree. “At Balgownie Estate Yarra Valley, we have a clear focus on Laurence Cogan-Marie, professor of marketing at BSB since supporting our local regional producers and being able to 2009, will run the sustainable wine tourism and gastronomy MSc. deliver a fantastic authentic experience based around fine wine and delicious food,\" said executive chef Flack. “The aim is to introduce students to the best sustainable practices in wine tourism and gastronomy,\" she said. \"They will also carry \"Our team will showcase what we have been working on to the out concrete case studies.\" public and provide them with the utmost luxurious and relaxing experience, as promised.” Research released by the booking.com website in 2021 found that 83% of travellers thought sustainable travel was vital. The on-site spa suites and guest rooms are now welcoming vaccinated guests. For more information visit: www. The faculty of the School of Wine & Spirits Business is made up balgownieestate.com.au of both academic experts and industry professionals, including NEW WINE COURSE TO PLEASE YOUR PALATE a Master of Wine, Steve Charters. BSB KEEN on studying sustainability in wine and gastronomy? Want to also invites dozens of spend some time in arguably the most famous wine region in the guest speakers from world drinking superb chardonnays and pinots noir? the world of wines and spirits in France A new Master of Science course has been launched by the and abroad to share Burgundy School of Wine & Spirits Business. their experiences with students. See Prospective students from around the world can apply for the https://global.bsb- new MSc course in sustainable wine tourism and gastronomy. education.com/bsbs- programmes/ 12 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

briefs SEE THE SCENIC RIM The Still, at 30 Argyle Street, features whiskies from every distiller in Tasmania, as well as benchmarks from around the world. QUEENSLAND’S Scenic Rim region Scenic Rim was named by global travel authority Lonely Planet as one of the hottest Guests can pop in for a wee dram, or a range of tasting destinations to visit in 2022. experiences in a cosy cocktail bar-style environment. Food and wine lovers can pencil in Scenic Rim Eat Local Week The Guided Whisky Tasting Experience ($79) will feature three from June 25 to July 3, 2022, as the ideal time to visit. unique single malt cask finishes, or guests can sample three different Lark whiskies for $38, or three local heroes for $53. This year will mark the 11th Scenic Rim Eat Local Week with an itinerary that includes long lunches, big dinners, farm gate And if you happen to have someone in your party who is not tastings, culinary celebrations, masterclasses, workshops and a whisky drinker, the wine list features star Tasmanian names more, including the Winter Harvest Festival on July 2. including Apogee, Stefano Lubiana, Freycinet Vineyard, Havilah and Waterton Hall, among others. Among the venues will be the Scenic Rim artisan brewery. Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2022 named the top 10 countries, The Still is home to a ‘Whisky Hall of Fame,’ as well as a dedicated cities, and regions to visit with the Scenic Rim the only Australian tasting bar and whisky lounge. inclusion. Just an hour from Brisbane and 30 minutes from the heart of the The new venue showcase the state's finest whiskies, with 150 Gold Coast, the Scenic Rim stretches from Canungra to Beaudesert rare Tassie tipples available by the glass or bottle. and Boonah, Tamborine Mountain to Kalbar. The region is home to the ancient World Heritage-listed \"The Still is a celebration of what makes the Tasmanian spirits Gondwana Rainforests, six historic national parks, charming towns industry one of the best in the world,” said Dan Knight, head of and villages, adventure parks, farm stays, craft breweries, boutique hospitality at Lark Distillery. wineries and ecolodges. See visitscenicrim.com.au The Still is open 11am-9pm Sunday-Wednesday and 11am- midnight Thursday-Saturday. See larkdistillery.com/pages/the-still. STILL A LARK FOR SPIRITS YOU are heading for Hobart and wondering where you should visit to sample the best of Tasmania's fast-growing artisan distillery industry? First stop should probably be the brand new The Still, a whisky bar in downtown Hobart - on the site of former star restaurant Franklin. The Still is the latest whisky experience from Lark Whisky - the brand where Bill Lark kick-started the spirits boom in Tasmania. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs NEW MOJITO TO MARKET PERFECTLY PINK WAY TO TRAVEL BACARDI, probably the most famous name in the world of rum, has WHEN times are tough in the travel writing world, the smartest unveiled a new, ready-to-drink cocktail: Bacardi Mojito. cookies find a way to pivot. “With the original Bacardi Mojito having a rich history and rise That's certainly what Sydney-based Katrina Holden has done. in popularity since the 1930s, we’re proud to continue to meet Love pink? Love vintage vibes? our customers' desires and launch the ready-to-drink Bacardi Former drinks writer Holden has launched a unique ride service built Mojito in time for summer here in Australia,\" says Bacardi brand around a very cute 1975 baby pink Mercedes Benz complete with its ambassador Loy Catada. original interiors, called That Pink Merc. That Pink Merc is hireable by the hour, with a driver, and takes \"The Bacardi brand has been synonymous with classic Caribbean up to four passengers who are encouraged to create their own cocktails since 1862 and our latest launch gives consumers the memorable moments. ease of a high-quality cocktail made with the natural flavours and Passengers could hire the car for a scenic route lunch drop-off, a real ingredients of mint, lime, and the world’s most awarded rum wedding car moment, a drive to watch a pretty sunset against the in a convenient format.” bonnet, a romantic picnic, or a quick trip to the Hunter Valley. Add-ons are also available for each booking as an extra surprise Bacardi Mojito is available in select Liquorland, First Choice or touch point. They include a picnic kit and glassware; a gourmet Liquor Market, Dan Murphy’s, BWS and independent retailers for cheese pack, half a dozen boxed #RideTheMoment cupcakes, a posy $24.99 per pack of four. See www.bacardi.com. of florals with a hand-written card, event/wedding ribbons on the front of the car and personalised monogram lettering on the rear window. All these items are pre-set, pre-arranged and ready when That Pink Merc and driver arrive at your pick-up destination. See www. thatpinkmerc.com COANIOLA WINES 29/07/2021 10:03:23 AM YAA VALLEY Corniola Wines is nestled in the heart of the famous Yarra Valley wine region in Victoria. Experience the smaller, family owned and operated winery and Cellar Door. We are pleased to offer you our current range of wines made from hand-picked Estate grown fruit and from selected vineyards, with the focus being to create affordable wines of premium high quality. 100 Wills Rd, Dixons Creek VIC 3775, Australia Phone: 03 5965 2393 Opening Hours: 10:30am – 5:00pm, Monday - Sunday www.corniolawines.com.au 14 AD_CoWrnioIlaNWEineSs_TQAPHT_SEO21M.inaddrch1/April 2022

ALPINE VALLEYS HUNTER VALLEY MARGARET RIVER SingleVineyard Small BatchWines Available online All wines available in our online store @ goldmanwines.com.au [email protected] @goldmanwines March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 15

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW CALLING ALL NEGRONI LOVERS the family winery saw him become a talented winemaker – Joe’s pioneering Irongate Chardonnay is thought to be New Zealand’s HAWKE’S Bay-based Kate Galloway and David Ramonteu are a first barrel fermented and matured chardonnay - and a highly talented duo. Galloway, formerly chief winemaker at Alpha Domus, respected wine judge. Joe was recognised for his service to and her husband, winemaker and Juracon-native Ramonteu, were not the industry with numerous awards and honours over the years, content simply with the creation of their Alluviale brand (since sold) including an ONZM in 2015 and as Fellow of New Zealand or the strikingly labelled Dada Wines. Instead distilling captured their Winegrowers in 2017. Joe’s nephew David, CEO of Babich Wines hearts; as Hastings Distillers, their award-winning certified organic says, “Joe was invariably and famously down-to-earth, warm, gins and aperitifs have quickly became cult favourites, while their and approachable, with a wry and gentle sense of humour. He stylish shop and tasting room is a great place for a bite to eat and will be sorely missed by family and friends, and colleagues in a cocktail or three in Hastings. They have just added an aromatic the wine industry”. sweet vermouth called ‘Rubis’. Galloway says her and Ramonteu’s “backgrounds in winemaking and distilling enabled us to combine THE OMICRON HARVEST both disciplines to create something unique that speaks of Hawke’s Bay”. They begin with organic Gimblett Gravels cabernet sauvignon AT the time of press, the nets are going on vineyards and wineries to which they add organic botanicals that have been steeped in pure are prepping tanks for the imminent harvest. After the excellent organic alcohol. Galloway says, “We grow our own wormwood [the but small 2021 vintage, all fingers and toes are crossed for a more herb from which vermouth takes its name] and use a selection of bountiful yield. Following a cool, often wet spring, most of New savoury herbs such as thyme, rosemary, bay, warm spices - clove, Zealand’s regions enjoyed a warm, sunny, settled summer - albeit cardamom and cassia - and flowering plants such as lavender and in the classic NZ style that still delivered a little January snow on chamomile in our blend”. Rubis can be sipped on its own over ice or the hills in Central Otago – and it’s shaping up to be an earlier- with a splash of soda, or of course used to mix the perfect Negroni. than-usual harvest. While the medium-range weather forecast is largely promising, other potentially problematic clouds are VINEYARD PURCHASES looming in the shape of the pandemic and its attendant ongoing labour shortages. The country is about to enter harvest with the THE NZX-listed Foley Wines Ltd announced its conditional contract to Omicron variant circulating and if 2020’s harvest was conducted buy Central Otago’s Zebra Bendigo Flat Vineyard, subject to Overseas under strict lockdown conditions and 2021 was largely typical with Investment Office (OIO) approval. Foley Wines owns Mt Difficulty in the exception of closed borders, this year is a whole new playing Central Otago, as well as several other high-profile wineries in both field. The Government’s Covid Protection Framework (or ‘traffic Marlborough and Martinborough. The 55.5ha Zebra vineyard has light system’) is currently set at Red for the foreseeable future, 30.5ha planted in pinot noir, and around 12ha of bare land which Foley’s combining the threat of losing already stretched workforces to intends to plant as soon as approval is given. Meanwhile, another illness alongside exposed close contacts to extended isolation of Central Otago’s largest producers, the Skeggs Group-owned periods. It’s a difficult scenario in which to create contingency Akarua Wines has also entered a conditional contract awaiting OIO plans: under the rules all close contacts of an infected case are approval; they however are selling 51.9ha in Bannockburn to Rimapere expected to self-isolate for 10 days after contact – one infection Vineyards Ltd, a Marlborough company owned by France’s Edmond could see an entire winery’s workforce out for nearly a fortnight, de Rothschild Heritage. The land includes 34.5ha of established and even exposure to a case elsewhere could result in key workers vineyards planted predominately in pinot noir with a smattering of missing in action – and few have the luxury of additional staff to call chardonnay and riesling as well as the Akarua brand, winery, cellar upon. Additionally, anyone living with a Covid-19 case but who isn’t door and offices. The Skeggs Group will retain their other vineyards themselves infected must remain in isolation for an additional 10 in the Bannockburn and Pisa subregions, the Akarua restaurant and days after the initial case is released from isolation – this potential cellar door in Arrowtown, and continue to market their RUA brand. period of 24 days out of action is close to the entire span of Akarua was established in 1996 by Sir Clifford Skeggs, whose son and harvest for many wineries. Some are considering creating de facto Managing Director David says, “The Skeggs family recently reviewed ‘bubbles’ along the lines of 2020’s lockdown solution, but with the its investment portfolio, resulting in this rationalisation of their vineyard chronic shortage of labour most are already stretched thin, making holdings. The family remains very committed to the Central Otago wine separate shifts an impossibility. Harvest has never been an easy industry”. CEO of Edmond de Rothschild Heritage, Alexis de La Palme, time for the nerves and there’s no doubting 2021 has ratcheted comments, “Through this conditional acquisition in Central Otago, the tension up several notches further. Edmond de Rothschild Heritage continues its strategy of building premium world wines from extraordinary terroirs. Central Otago has exceptional potential for super premium pinot noir”. JOE BABICH JANUARY sadly marked the passing of Joe Babich, who died at the age of 81 after a two year battle with cancer. Joe’s father Josip founded Babich Wines in 1916, and Joe’s 60 year career at 16 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

Stay ahead in the wine with a subscription to industry SUBSCRIBE AND RECEIVE Digital Access Delivered Aust. Post + Digital Access Unrestricted access to Grapegrower & Winemaker and winetitles.com.au on your desktop, tablet and mobile Grapegrower & Winemaker DIGITAL & PRINT EDITION available every month Grapegrower & Winemaker DELIVERED AUST. POST every month Please quote reference number G&W 8/18 when $55 from $79 submitting your subsciption details Upfront for the Upfront for the first 12 months first 12 months S U B S C R I B E T O D A YW I N E I N D U S T R Y S O L U T I O N S www.winetitles.com.au/gwm March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 17 or call +618 8369 9523

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW THE STATE OF THINGS HOW did Europe fare with its 2021 European Union production, which is time since the organisation has been vintage (September-October-ish in the quite significant. However, given that the keeping records. Italy stays at number northern hemisphere)? Covid-19 had some world is still entrenched in the pandemic, 1, with 44.5mhl (down 9%), a position it contenders for size of issue. consumption is volatile, which makes has held since 2015. Spain is traditionally forecasting trickier than usual at the global third, though not in 2021, with 35.0mhl It is estimated, by the OIV (the level. The OIV report that there are some (down 14%). The significance of the size International Organisation of Vine and stocks still in the system, and they are of these three producers is highlighted Wine, a scientific and technical inter- forecasting consumption to be only slightly when it is understood that the fourth largest governmental body working with vine- above consumption in 2020. So, with a fair European Union producer Germany, made based products, including wine, table wind, it might turn out that stock inventory just over one quarter the volume of wine grapes, raisins, vinegar) that global wine ends up back in better line with production. than that of France (8.8mhl). production for 2021 is around 250 million hectolitres (mhl), which makes it the third However, given that the And Germany was one of the countries year in a row that global wine production is less affected by the devastating April frosts, below average. And this is despite bigger world is still entrenched along with Portugal and Hungary, all of than average production in the Americas, which produced single figure percentages, South Africa and Australia. For example, in the pandemic, more wine than in 2020. But the most Australia’s 2021 crop was up by 30% on devastating, and heart-rending, news was 2020, to just over 14mhl. consumption is volatile, the July floods which left more than 180 people dead in Germany and neighbouring In the July/August 2021 issue I wrote which makes forecasting Belgium. The Ahr wine region was one of about the devastating spring (March, the most damaged regions, with the floods April, May in the northern hemisphere) trickier than usual at the destroying all the bridges over the Ahr river, frosts in Europe. Climate change is a tributary of the Rhine river, among other regularly bringing late winter/early spring global level. things, and sweeping downstream almost warmth, which advances bud burst and all before it. early growth, not solely among viticultural Within individual European countries, crops. When this is followed by ‘normal/ production estimates present a mixed In terms of the vintage, the Ahr typical’ spring frosts, vine growth is at picture. The big three, which between welcomed volunteers to help with the a particularly vulnerable stage and is them account for 45% of global production, picking, as they’d earlier welcomed especially susceptible to damage. These were all down, quite considerably, mainly innumerable volunteers in the aftermath frosts, plus generally inclement weather owing to that early April (spring) frost of the demolishing floods. In fact, the during the growing season caused a loss damage. France was hit hardest by those volume harvested ended up being a tiny of about 22mhl, just in the three biggest frosts, which was followed up by summer fraction above the ten-year average for producing countries, Italy, France and rains and hailstorms which also brought this region. More generally, Germany’s Spain, compared with volumes in 2020. mildew, meaning, overall production harvest looks promising, where good is down by 27%, to 34.2mhl. The OIV harvest selection protocols were in place. In 2021, the European Union countries state this has pushed France into third Daytime warmth and night-time cool in produced about 145mhl, or 58% of share ranking producer for only the second September encouraged ripening after a of global production. This is down 13% more ‘classic’ coolness, and dampness, on 2020: a crop 1.5 times the size that of growing season. A more characteristic Australia produced is ‘missing’ from 18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

crispness of acidity is being touted causing a 20% crop loss. The spring/ CONNECT ON SOCIAL after the heat and drought of the three summer hailstorms in May and June also WITH WINESTATE preceding vintages. found their way to the Douro (Portugal) and Duero (Spain) river valley (one nearly www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine While the damage and death in the Ahr 900km long river, with a different name in valley will long remain with those still here, different countries), with famed appellation twitter.com/winestateed France has certainly been severely hit by Ribera del Duero, located on the central a sequence of extreme weather events meseta, being particularly badly affected. www.instagram.com/winestate/ throughout the growing season. First the early April frosts. Then more frosts at the Over in Italy, parts of central, notably Follow us and keep up to date with beginning of May. A June heatwave was Tuscany (down 25%), and north Italy all our latest wine info, tastings, followed by widespread thunderstorms (Piedmont and Trentino-Alto Adige both competitions and events on and localised hailstorms. down 10%) also suffered from the spring facebook, twitter and instagram. frost, after that warm late winter (February). In Champagne up to a third of fragile A hot and dry summer followed in many buds were killed in the April frost wave. And areas, often with accompanying hailstorms in Burgundy all areas were affected, by in July, and heatwave in August, followed differing amounts. Champagne forecasts by calmer ripening weather. All regions are for up to 40% lower than usual, suffered losses, except those in the very Burgundy nearly 50%. High summer rains in bottom of Italy, deep in the Mediterranean Alsace brought mildew, which reduced the Sea – the ball (Sicily), the toe (Calabria), crop by about 20%. In the west of France, and the lower shin (Campania). the spring frost in the Loire was followed by hen and chicken (millerandage), Europe vintage 2021 will long be where large and small berries develop remembered for the Arctic advection frost on the same bunch, and coulure, where that laid across much of western Europe in no grape develops at all, cutting up to a the early days of April, causing billions of third off the typical crop. A similar picture monetary losses across various agricultural in Bordeaux, which is also on the western crops. And for the destructive and deadly side of France, the crop expected to be floods, and remarkable resilience of down by 25%. The devastating litany people, many of them winegrowers, in goes on. No winegrowing region escaped Germany’s Ahr valley. damage. Even the ‘sunny south of France’ – Languedoc and Roussillon got hit by the frosts, then the summer drought. Crop load may be up to a third smaller. The extraordinarily deep spring frosts continued south, beyond Languedoc, getting into Mediterranean Spain. Vineyards in the high elevation meseta (plateau) of central Spain, were caught, March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY SEASONING SHIRAZ FOLLOWING on from my last article in the the label. However, we have established heat and hotness from eating pepper, annual edition where I summarised some shiraz internationally as a recognised chilli pepper for instance. It could be a of the regional styles of shiraz, this time synonym for syrah so I wouldn’t like to factor on why pepper comes into some out, I scratch the surface into what makes a change that. Nationally we own shiraz and people’s descriptions of a wine. And if cool climate shiraz and explore rotundone. should be proud of it. there is one variety that can be hot on the palate it’s Australian shiraz, but that is Rotundone, the compound responsible AWRI research has shown that rotundone due to high alcohol, say 15% abv and not for the aroma of pepper in wine, is highly is present in the grape skin only and not the aroma. So, when we talk pepper, it is aromatic and can be detected in as little the pulp and increases during the later the smell of black or white pepper not the as 16 ng/l of wine. That is equivalent to parts of the ripening process, so earlier burn of heat on the palate. Pepper should a few drops in a swimming pool. What is picked grapes have less amounts. Also, not be confused with the smell or taste equally amazing is that roughly 20% of wetter vintages have more rotundone. In of underripe grapes either; these will be the population is anosmic to the smell, or the winery it is easily extracted from the leafy, herbaceous with off-putting green to put it simply, they have a blind spot for capsicum aromas and lack fruit ripeness. the aroma. So, if you are at cellar door and There is a slight growth the staff are carrying on about the aromas According to the AWRI rotundone was of pepper in their prize wine, it might well in producers using the first identified in 2007. Chemically it is be you who cannot get it. Or could the described as a sesquiterpene (having aroma of pepper in their shiraz be a case term syrah on Australian 15 carbon atoms) and is related to the of smoke and mirrors? monoterpenes (10 carbon atoms) found wine labels to indicate in floral wines such as riesling. Cool years “You cannot get rotundone in hot produce more rotundone. In 2012 the climates,” says Llew Knight from Granite a pepper or spice CSIRO and Mount Langi Ghiran vineyard Hills. He knows a bit about rotundone after in the Grampians conducted research completing his 51st vintage in the chilly approach. That might be on rotundone levels in a single shiraz Macedon Ranges. Granite Hills vineyard vineyard. Grampians was chosen for its sits at an altitude of 550 meters above useful for consumers so reputation for producing peppery shiraz. sea level and is a decidedly cool climate. The levels of rotundone grew substantially Some of the science coming out of the they can pick and choose with the parts of the vineyard that had a Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) south or south easterly orientation. So, site points to rotundone being a cool climate which style of shiraz from and aspect can compound the likelihood driven aroma. But it begs the question on of getting peppery aromas. 2012 was why so many producers talk about pepper the label. a cool year and when the warmer 2013 in their warmer climate shiraz? Marketing vintage was analysed it was a lot less. may play a role in these descriptions. Shiraz skins during fermentation and remains originates from the cool northern Rhône in the wine during processing and bottle Besides the Grampians and Macedon Valley and pepper is associated with their ageing. Rotundone is also found in herbs Ranges, peppery shiraz can be found syrah. So, if you want to subtly say your such as rosemary and thyme as well as in the Adelaide Hills, Great Southern in wine is more European in style then pepper other grape varieties such as gamay, durif WA and Victoria’s tiny Sunbury region aromas help you to make that claim. There and graciano. Surprisingly, you can also where Pat Carmody at Craiglee has been is a slight growth in producers using the find white pepper in gruner veltliner. making delicious pepper driven shiraz term syrah on Australian wine labels to for decades. The Canberra District, Yarra indicate a pepper or spice approach. That Pepper is a term that can confuse Valley and Mornington Peninsula can also might be useful for consumers so they can some people. Hotness from alcohol on join the pepper club. pick and choose which style of shiraz from the palate could be associated with the Llew Knight has data on rotundone levels 20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

in his vineyards and levels vary each year. Uniquely The cool 2014 vintage proved to be a Yorke pungent year with 275 ng/l, whilst in 2015 Peninsula it was only 7 ng/l which is below threshold. But on average 8 out of 10 vintages you Cellar Door and Function Centre can detect pepper in his shiraz. Open 7 days 10am-5pm The jury is out as to whether varying Maitland, South Australia canopy management can have an effect on Phone (08) 8834 1258 rotundone. “If you shade the canopy, you just get green fruit,” comments Llew. And barleystackswines.com when he has exposed the fruit to more sun they still get rotundone. The season must make a huge impact. A cool vintage and then exposing the grapes to sun will still result in good levels of rotundone. When you get the grapes to the winery there are some techniques that need to be curtailed. “We don’t do whole bunch ferments,” explains Llew. “When we are crushing the grapes, you can smell the rotundone spices coming off the stalks, so we don’t need more stalkiness.” Pepper aromas gives a wine a point of difference. But as Llew points out it should not be the only aroma or flavour in the wine, “you still want some dark fruits behind the pepper,” he explains. One question that remains a bit of a mystery is the difference between smelling cracked black pepper and white pepper. I have seen both and feel there must be a reason and chemical difference for the two aromas. Discussing this with Llew creates more questions; “what about pink peppercorns or green?” My empirical findings are that white pepper comes through on cooler sites. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING GENOA - THE BIRTHPLACE OF PESTO, FOCACCIA AND CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS ONE of the most exciting international Kickstart a food and wine exploration of Fans of Hotel Portofino, the British travel options this year are Qantas' new Genoa in Via XX Settembre, a shopping whodunnit TV series set in the nearby flights to Rome. Starting in the third week boulevard lined with local and international coastal town, will feel right at home in the of June, there will be three return flights - fashion brands, which is also home to the 125-year-old Grand Hotel Savoia, crammed Sydney - Perth - Rome - per week during city's premier food market, MOG Mercato with Murano glass chandeliers, marble the Northern Hemisphere summer until Orientale. If you are staying in an Airbnb, floors and plush furniture. The rooftop October. The route will allow travellers this is the place to stock up on freshly terrace offers wrap-around views of Genoa to combine the Rome flights with the made pesto, handmade pasta, black and and is tailormade for watching the city's airline's double-daily direct flights between white truffles, pecorino cheese and fresh famed pink sunsets. While the hotel's Australia and London and also access 16 fish. The MOG in the title refers to the food Ristorante Salgari offers upmarket twists on other destinations in Europe and 15 in Italy, court opened in 2019, where you can local cuisine from tagliolini in truffle butter including Milan and Venice. choose Ligurian specialties such as torta di with black truffle slices to Piedmontese beef fillet with porcini mushrooms and golden From Milan, it's only a 144-kilometre drive Kickstart a food and wine hazelnut potatoes. to Genoa, the port city that gave birth to pesto, focaccia and Christopher Columbus. exploration of Genoa Genoa walks the line between its new Often by-passed in favour of the Cinque and historic foodie reputation. Sa Pesta, Terre, the rugged Italian Riviera coastline, in Via XX Settembre, literally meaning crushed salt, is a landmark and Portofino, this year marks the 530th trattoria located in the city's former salt anniversary of Columbus' voyage to the a shopping boulevard market. Famous for its pesto, diners also Americas. You can also pay homage to flock here for seppie con piselli (cuttlefish the city's second most famous son, Renzo lined with local and with peas) and farinata, the local chickpea Piano, the star architect responsible for the flour flatbread served in antique cooking Centre Pompidou in Paris, the rejuvenated international fashion pans. Trattoria Rosmarino is located in a Potsdamer Platz in Berlin, The Shard in side street off the Piazza de Ferrari and also London and Aurora Place in Sydney. brands, which is also makes much of its pesto and stoccafisso, a traditional Genovese dish of air-dried I fell in love with Genoa after a walking tour home to the city's stockfish and pine nuts. The relaxed of Cinque Terre and have made numerous mood and industrial chic decor with green visits since. In parts it's still pretty gritty premier food market, banquettes are very popular with locals so but the city boasts the largest mediaeval bookings are necessary. town centre in Europe, centred on the MOG Mercato Orientale. 12th century Porta Soprana gates, the Le Rune is listed in the Michelin guide Piazza de Ferrari anchored by a bronze carciofi (artichoke tart) from 11 gastronomic and dishes up contemporary takes on fountain and the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, providores. Upstairs you will find the MOG seasonal and regional flavours with an whose stripey exterior is reminiscent of restaurant, where the upmarket menu was emphasis on seafood, including ciuppin, the Duomo in Florence. The ornate 16th created by Daniele Rebosio, who has the local version of bouillabaisse. Bella and 17th century palaces on the Strade worked with Ferran Adria of El Bulli and Bu bills itself as a bistro, tapas and Nuove (New Streets) are a UNESCO World Alain Ducasse. There is also a futuristic pinchos bar and the laidback kitchen also Heritage site and the Palazzo Ducale, the wine shop offering over 40 varietals from specialises in upmarket offerings with former residence of the Doges of Genoa, Liguria, including vermentino and bosco, organic ingredients. The bucatini al pepe, is a must-visit for architecture buffs and and other Italian wine regions. pasta with freshly ground pepper, proves Instagrammers. that simple dishes can be sensational. 22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

Ivano Ricchebono built up a major A visit to Les Rouges Cucina & Cocktails Follow us and keep reputation working in some of the grandest is like walking into a movie set. Founded in up to date with all hotels in Italy before returning to his 2013 by three Israeli brothers, it is located our latest wine info, hometown to open The Cook, a Michelin in the Palazzo Imperiale, built in 1560 and tastings and events one star venue. He acquired a wider still pockmarked with bomb damage from on facebook, twitter audience with appearances on the popular World War II. But the artful decay is all part Italian cooking show, La prova del cuoco, of the charm and the dedication to cocktails and instagram. and picked one of the most striking is so pronounced that bar tenders ask you locations to house his signature restaurant which salt you prefer on your margarita. Winestate Magazine - an historic palace which once belonged Or choose from the wine list of mainly @WinestateEd to the wealthy Doria family with stunning Ligurian bottlings or the international gin trompe l'oeil frescoes in the dining room. list and order the slow cooked beef ragu Currently offering four and eight course with polenta. menu degustations - think salmon cannoli, rice in squid ink with seafood and a Outdoor bars and restaurants are not only crustacean \"cappuccino\". atmospheric, they are also a preference for many people in these uncertain times, The bar scene in Genoa is as trendy as especially when travelling. Genoa is full you will find in other major Italian cities. of sailing enthusiasts and yachties and Le Lepre is a speakeasy-style hangout the city is packed with bars that take with filament lighting and untreated wood advantage of the long summer sunsets furniture focused on aperitivi such as and Mediterranean sea views. Monu Cafe Aperol spritz to wash down the piadine - boasts one of the largest outdoor terraces flatbread filled with cheese and cold cuts in the city. Located near the monument to such as Genoa salami. If you want less Garibaldi's Expedition of the Thousand, \"edge\", Cantine Matteotti has a classical the landing that sparked the re-unification music playlist and the staff are very of Italy, it's a favourite with the younger set knowledgeable about the wide selection and boaties and the menu is split between of Italian wines on offer. seasonal local listings and international dishes like poke bowls. Blunt Beach Club La Bottega del Conte fills the site of an has tables on the beach during summer, a old grocery story, sporting marble walls huge terrace and a top wine list including and iron bars once used for hanging hams. Franciacorta sparkling wines and crisp The basement, an excavated mediaeval vermentinos. Not for those looking for a cistern, is where the cool crowd gather to quiet night as the club can house hundreds sip beer or wine amid quirky artworks. Beer, at full capacity. or rather a huge selection of tap brews and local and imported craft beers, lures in the punters at Scurreria Beer & Bagel. \"Filler\" food includes burgers and bagels filled with Italian ingredients, not lox and sour cream, and the English-speaking staff offer informed guidance for a beer tasting. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 23

Love AT FIRST SIP A Barossa passion gave birth to Brockenchack Wines 24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

NIGEL HOPKINS Trevor expanded this wine connection by also getting involved in both wholesale NEARLY 30 years ago Sunshine Coast and retail liquor sales in Queensland, resident Trevor Harch, then the owner even opening one of Brisbane’s top wine of Queensland’s second largest family bars – not surprisingly, and cleverly, named owned and operated commercial Bar Barossa. Along the way he became construction company, had his first taste an unofficial spokesman for the Barossa of Barossa shiraz. It was love at first sip. and spent the following decade “bringing the Barossa to Queensland”, showcasing Now in retirement, sort of, he’s the and supporting boutique Barossa wineries owner of Brockenchack Wines growing wherever possible through his retail and 120 or so tonnes of grapes annually on wholesale avenues. some of the best vineyard land in Eden Valley, and among the 8000 cases of The next logical step was to transition into wine he produces each year is a fair growing grapes and have a go at producing proportion of his beloved shiraz. his own wine. In 2007, Trevor jumped on an opportunity to purchase an established But it was a journey that took place vineyard in Eden Valley’s Keyneton, with the over a number of years and extricating vision of one day retiring there with Marilyn, himself and his family from Queensland which he eventually did in 2013. didn’t happen overnight. Determined to make it a truly family After several years of visiting, falling endeavour he named it after his four in love with its people and history and, grandchildren - BROnte, MaCKENzie, of course, the wine, Trevor and his CHArli and JaCK, three of whom Trevor wife Marilyn backed up their love by says are now working in the business. purchasing the historic Tanunda Cellars bottle shop in the late 90s, which they still own. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 25

The property, a working vineyard for well over a century, was then producing riesling and shiraz grapes, including what is thought to be some of the oldest riesling vines in Australia, planted in 1896, alongside shiraz vines planted in the 1930s and 50s. Following his first 2008 vintage of a tiny 37 dozen Jack Harrison Shiraz (just to see what he had), Trevor’s excitement grew when the exceptional quality of the wine spoke for itself. “This vineyard really is something special,” Trevor enthuses. “It’s part of what some people refer to as the ‘golden triangle’ and Shawn Kalleske, who was our original winemaker, reckons it’s one of the top 10 vineyards in the Barossa region.” Initially the grapes from the vineyard were contracted to Yalumba – with the grapes that now go into their Jack Harrison Shiraz and William Frederick Shiraz originally going into Yalumba’s Octavius. The property has been expanded over the years to now total 125ha, of which 17.5ha 26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

This vineyard really is something special,” Trevor enthuses. “It’s part of what some people refer to as the ‘golden triangle’ and earned us the title of Eden Valley Winery of the Year at the 2021 Melbourne International Wine Competition. under vine, with shiraz (average vine age including a private tasting room and the Kalleske still making Brockenchack’s 50 years) on 10ha, and smaller plantings underground meat cellar becoming an pinot noir. However, further change is on of cabernet sauvignon, grenache, pinot underground trophy room. the way, Trevor says, with his own 200 noir, riesling, chardonnay and pinot gris. tonne winery now under construction There’s also room for a small but growing There’s been similar development on which he hopes will be ready for the cattle venture, with 80 or so Black Angus the wine front, with overseas exporting 2023 vintage. cattle now in residence. starting in 2014 with a shipment to Japan, followed over the next two years with That underground trophy room is The family immediately set to work further exports to Germany, China, the now steadily filling with trophies as restoring the history of the property, starting US and New Zealand. Winemaker Joanne Brockenchack builds a name for itself with the rebuilding of an old stone coach Irvine started making Brockenchack’s as one of the more successful boutique house from a pile of rubble, which was riesling, rosé, sparkling shiraz and Zip wineries in the region. Trevor is the first eventually completed in 2012. In 2017 they Line Shiraz, while Kalleske continued to to admit that in some ways he seems to completely restored one of the property's make the William Frederick Shiraz, Jack have come a long way in a short time, original 1880s vineyard homesteads, Harrison Shiraz and the company’s first though the truth is its success has been turning it into a luxury vineyard B&B, and release chardonnay. many years in the making, turning a in 2021, opening the Retreat and Studio dream into a reality through hard work, B&Bs, bringing their accommodation One singular triumph came with the determination and family spirit. offering to three luxury B&Bs. release of the first Megan Jane Grenache in 2017 – a “sensational” wine, Trevor Previous pages: Drone shot of vineyard and cellar Next to the homestead was another says – that won a gold medal at the door, owners Marilyn and Trevor Harch in the vineyard. old 1880s stone building, (once the Melbourne International Wine Show but Opposite page top to bottom: The Brockenchack local butcher shop that much later was also made Brockenchack the Eden Valley family, owners Marilyn and Trevor Harch and the converted into a two-room brothel, the Grenache Winery of the Year. underground cellar door. red lights of which still exist). In 2018 Above: The four Brockenchack grandkids in the this was also restored into a cellar door, Irvine has since taken over most of vineyard. the winemaking at her own winery, with March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 27

the g r eraotandetsos 28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

paulmara estate’s journey to wine of the year NIGEL HOPKINS At this point Paul launches into a mass of intricate detail such as leaf layer number, internode spacing and light inception, and WHEN you’ve had 18 years exploring the finest vineyards of his work in the development of Penfold’s Yattarna, RWT and South Australia, seeking the very best grapes to go into some of other iconic wines. Little wonder that he’s sometimes referred Australia’s finest wines, it should come as no surprise that when to as a “grape whisperer”. the time came to buy your own vineyard only the best would do. “It came to a point where we said why not do this for That was the inside running that gave Paul Georgiadis a very ourselves?” Paul says. “I wanted to apply everything I’d learnt significant head start when, as grower relations manager for to see what sort of results I could get. Penfolds premium regions until 2009, with his wife Mara he bought land at Marananga in the heart of the Barossa Valley “When I was managing the Barossa growers (for Penfolds) and planted their first vines in 1995. the pinnacle a grower could reach was Grange. I wanted to see how long it would take to plant a vine and get it to Grange. By then Paul had a deep, intimate knowledge of the extraordinary That was the whole ultimate goal – and to get my father out characters of Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and other South Australian of the Riverland, where I’d grown up in Barmera, and for him premium regions, but it was “the rolling hills of Seppeltsfield Road” to manage the vines while I was still in the corporate world.” that attracted him the most. He and Mara bought just under 17ha of prime vineyard land, which they called the Home Block, and Not surprisingly, all of the fruit from that initial Home Block went to planted 14ha of it mostly with shiraz, some cabernet sauvignon, Penfolds until, in 1999, Paul and Mara launched their own Paulmara about 2ha of sangiovese, some nero d’avola and mataro. brand, with their first wine Syna shiraz – Greek for together – inspired by Paul’s Greek roots and Mara’s Californian heritage, “The whole reason we planted the vineyard was to apply all where she had trained in agribusiness, worked for wineries in the knowledge I’d gained through teaching our 600 growers Sonoma County and met Paul whilst both were working at Penfolds. and working with Patrick Iland as part of Penfold’s Wine Web Project, where we looked at all the elements that created quality in wine. Part of that was looking at what we needed to do in a vineyard to achieve that.” March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 29

The next big move came in 2011 when they bought the rundown Paradigm vineyard, 4km up the road near Marananga’s Gnadenfrei church, in partnership with four friends including Penfold’s chief winemaker Peter Gago. Once owned by the Seppelt family, just over a third of the 25ha site had been planted with shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. Paul recalls that he bought grapes from that vineyard for Grange in 1992 and knew there was something special about its soils, but by 2011 he says, “it was all over the place, posts broken, vines on the ground, it required a total rebuild.” This took great care. The oldest shiraz vines were thought to be more than 100 years old, the cabernet 50-60 years old, but by 2018 Paul thought the vineyard, where he’d retained its original contoured structure, was back to the standard he wanted. Until then its fruit had been sold to another winemaker, but after a disagreement over picking dates Paul decided to offer both the shiraz and cabernet to the man who’d already been making Paulmara wines, his old friend from Penfold days Jason Barrette. Enormously experienced, Jason has more than 30 vintages behind him in France, the US, Portugal and Canada – and had 11 years with Penfolds, where he and Paul met at Magill Estate. Now working as a global winemaking consultant, Jason Barrette is general manager and chief winemaker at the Lyndoch winery Hemera Estate, where Paulmara have three of their own five-tonne fermenters. 30 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

“When I was managing the Barossa growers (for Penfolds) the pinnacle a grower could reach was Grange. I wanted to see how long it would take to plant a vine and get it to Grange.” That was when they realised just how good the 2018 Paradigm vineyard cabernet was: “As soon as it hit the tank we knew,” Paul says. What followed was a longer ferment than usual, 13 days on skins, then into new French oak, with just 100 dozen bottles produced. Grown in tight red clays over shattered ironstone and quartz, mostly unirrigated, with yields no more than 2 tonnes/ha, the vines have to work hard to extract moisture from the soil. “That’s one block where I don’t let anyone else touch and prune,” Paul says. “I’ll do it all myself because you have to prune it to balance, to the vine’s capacity. And in 2018 I thought we had too many bunches, so we dropped every second bunch.” The result was the 2018 Apotigi Cabernet Sauvignon, Winestate’s 2021 Australian Wine of the Year: “It’s all about purity of character and expression of place,” Paul adds. And while Paulmara Estate now has a full and expanding repertoire of wines, including a joint venture robola wine made with Gentilini winery in Greece and experimental plantings of several Greek varieties, it is the Apotigi that has now confirmed the winery’s premium reputation – and proof that the finest wine really is made in the vineyard. Previous pages: Award winning wine Apotigi Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. Page 29, left to right: Winemaker Jason Barrette testing the wine, grapes in the vine yard, Mara and Paul with the cabernet harvest. Opposite page: The vineyard at sunset, Paul and Jason in the vineyard. This page: Paul and Mara at George’s on Waymouth, exterior of Paulmara Estates cellar door, Paul checking the grapes in the vineyard. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 31

32 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

OF THE The Reinvention of Grant Burge NIGEL HOPKINS Burge sold his stake in Krondorf winery to Mildara in 1986, bought it back again in 1999, sold it again in 2015 to Accolade IT takes a very special sort of winemaker to buy, sell and buy Wines – who put it on the market in December last year as part back three times the winery at which he first made his reputation – of a rationalisation of their production strategy, only to see it along the way losing the right to use his own brand name, but still bought for the third time this year by Grant Burge and his family maintaining a larger-than-life name and reputation along the way. company, Burge Barossa. It makes Grant Burge sound almost like the Kerry Packer of the Apart from any practical, sentimental or business reasons wine industry, though there are far too many Packer characteristics for wanting Krondorf back, it’s right next door to his sprawling that don’t fit either the Burge character or his career. house on Lily Farm Road and surrounded by a fair chunk of the 400ha of vineyards Burge owns in the Barossa, Eden Valley It has, nonetheless, been an extraordinary roller coaster ride for and Adelaide Hills. After he sold Krondorf for the first time to this fifth-generation winemaker that started when he teamed up with Mildara he was reported as saying he’d trained his children, Ian Wilson to start Burge and Wilson in McLaren Vale in the mid Trent, Amelia and Toby, not to go in there. Now they plan to use 1970s and took off when, on his birthday, January 20 in 1978, they it as they make a new generation of Burge wines. took the keys to Krondorf winery that was being sold off by Dalgety. Burge’s path to becoming one of the most respected and Of course, Burge might well argue that it all started back in innovative forces in the Australian wine industry really took off 1855 when tailor John Burge migrated to the Barossa from when he, aged 27, and Wilson, 25, first bought Krondorf. Two Wiltshire in England, with his wife Eliza and their two sons. John years later the pair won the Jimmy Watson Trophy which, Burge worked as a winemaker at Hillside Vineyards and his love of says, “really launched the brand. viticulture was passed onto his son Meshach, who continued the tradition making his first wine in 1865, while becoming a “The first year we sold 11,000 cases, the next year we sold prominent community leader. 22,000, the next was 44,000, then 88,000 and after eight years we were nearly up to 200,000 cases of wine. Then in 1983 we Meshach’s son Percival, Grant’s grandfather, established the went public, and we raised $8 million to fund that growth.” Wilsford Winery near Lyndoch in 1928, making fortified wine as was the usual thing in those days. His sons, including Grant’s father, didn’t want to make the change to table wines, which meant Grant had to go his own way. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 33

As a public company they were also at risk of being taken over. By now the share price was so high Burge couldn’t fend off Mildara. Cleverly he retained a first option to buy the winery back if Mildara ever wanted to sell which, as Mildara Blass, they did 13 years later. Along the way Grant and his wife Helen had gone against the prevailing sentiment at the time and started adding to their vineyard portfolio. Vineyards generally were losing money at the time, but Grant knew that the best wine would come from the best vineyards and that eventually the market would turn: “People thought I was mad at the time,” he says. This was also when Burge had a stint in the corporate world, working for two years as technical director for Mildara Wines while at weekends he would manage his own vineyards. Finally, he’d had enough of that and determined to have his own business, resigned from Mildara and started Grant Burge Wines. Burge was going to build his own winery but the late Doug Lehmann, then winemaker at Basedows, a 3000-tonne winery in Tanunda, suggested he use Basedows facilities instead. In 1993 Burge bought the winery, now named Illaparra, and Grant Burge Wines went on to become an internationally renowned brand making 750,000 cases annually and turning over $70 million. The decision to sell the Grant Burge brand to Accolade was a difficult one for Burge: “We decided we had too much debt and wanted to clear the decks a bit,” he says. “We only sold the brand and the wine; we didn’t sell any real estate basically.” 34 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

Meshach’s son Percival, And that is what has underpinned and extended the Grant Burge Grant’s grandfather, heritage. Now aged 71 and as full of ideas and energy as ever, Grant and his wife Helen have now been joined by their three established the Wilsford children in a diversified wine conglomerate Burge Barossa. Winery near Lyndoch in 1928, making fortified wine as was It has privately-owned Barossa vineyard holdings second in area the usual thing in those days. only to those controlled by Warren Randall from his Seppeltsfield base; two wineries – Illaparra, now with its own bottling line, and His sons, including Grant’s Krondorf – and a wine logistics storage and distribution business father, didn’t want to make operating out of Illaparra servicing mostly smaller regional wineries. the change to table wines, which meant Grant had to The Illaparra winery is basically set up for red wine production, while Krondorf was set up for white wine production, which was go his own way. something Burge Barossa needed for its expansion. And, of course, it’s nice for Burge to be able to walk out his front door and across the garden to the winery he first owned more than 40 years ago. “The only difference now is that I have to do all the work,” jokes Burge. “I used to have 180 people working for me at Grant Burge!” Typically tongue in cheek, he doesn’t really have to do it all by himself, with a workforce of more than 70 people employed in his vineyards and winery. With energy to burn, there’s no way Grant Burge plans to fade away any time soon. Previous pages: Grant and Helen Burge, photo credit: Ben MacMahon and the Burge Barossa vineyard, photo credit: Drone Imagery SA. Opposite page: Helen and Grant Burge in front of their vineyard, photo credit: Ben MacMahon and the bottling line. This page: The Burge family, from left to right; Trent Burge, Amelia Burge, Grant Burge, Helen Burge and Toby Mifflin, photo credit: Fable & Fig. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 35

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS FOR the hospitality industry the year starts expected a meat pie, soggy chips or kitchen haven’t changed with a continuing no better than 2021 ended, with severe worse, the Normanville Kiosk and Café emphasis on local, sustainable seafood constraints on the number of customers is a seaside gem with a menu to match. and whole fish specials. Not surprisingly able to attend restaurants. the fish and chips are one of the best of its It could hardly be closer to the beach, kind in Adelaide based on crisply-battered, Those best able to adapt, however, overlooking Yankalilla Bay, with plenty of sustainably-caught ocean jacket fish from include establishments that have large shaded outdoor seating on its expansive Greenly Island off Eyre Peninsula. These floor areas, enabling them to meet social deck, perfect in these Covid-afflicted times. firm-fleshed white fish, a larger, deeper distancing requirements, and those with ocean version of the common leatherjacket, extensive outdoor seating – all of which As you’d expect, there’s the classic fish are perfect in this context. is good news for a number of beachside and chips, or salt and pepper squid with Adelaide eateries. Greek salad, but rather unexpectedly To these is added a terrific house-made there’s soft shell crab in a Szechuan (of course) tartare, a bundle of super crisp For many years the Adelaide coastline, tempura batter with pineapple, mint and chips and a salad bowl that varies from though beautiful and inviting, could claim chilli salsa amongst the entrees, and day to day but is far more interesting than few beachside cafes or restaurants of crisp pork belly with Szechuan prawns, most of its kind. any class. One of the earliest and most Vietnamese mint and soba noodles, distinguished has been the Star of Greece or house-smoked chicken breast with There’s much more than this on the menu, at Port Willunga, named for an ancient Romesco sauce and charred corn in which changes weekly and includes basics wreck whose bones can still be seen at with the mains. such as Wagyu steaks, fried free-range low tide, sitting atop cliffs overlooking Gulf chicken and burgers. There’s a short but St Vincent from which much of its seafood Little wonder the place has a reputation well curated wine list, and a fabulous view dishes are drawn. for great value – and after dining you at sunset. What more could you want? can grab an icecream and take a walk Oceanique, 9 Barcoo Road, West Beach. Since being taken over by Doug and on the jetty, with your fishing rod if you’re Open lunch Wednesday-Sunday. Phone Nikki Govan the SoG has undergone a so inclined. It’s renowned for its mullet, (08) 8294 3232. number of transforming renovations, as well yellowfin whiting and flathead. Normanville as benefitting from Doug’s famous cellar at Kiosk & Café, 100 Jetty Road, Normanville. While on the subject of fish and chips, his Victory Hotel. There’s outdoor seating Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner there’s another great plate to be had at with splendid sea views, with a menu that during summer. Phone (08) 8558 2575. the West Beach Surf Club Cafe, which features classic dishes such as Kangaroo also enjoys fabulous seaside views from Island King George whiting with hand-cut Until Sam Dunning, his sister Lucy its balcony and open terrace. One of its chips, or more sophisticated dishes such and their extended families took over key features is also the fact that its open as pan-fried barramundi with skordalia, Oceanique, a large restaurant, terrace and in summer from breakfast to dinner, with chargrilled radicchio and tomato and herb function space several years ago, it was all-day dining, seven days a week. sauce vierge. largely deserted and unloved. That was at least partly because it was off the beaten Although the long menu covers everything If you just want fish and chips and the track in a maritime precinct at West Beach from focaccia with chips to schnitzels and open air, there’s also an adjoining Pt Willy adjacent to the Adelaide Sailing Club. curry, the go-to dish is the beer-battered kiosk. Star of Greece, 1 The Esplanade, garfish with chips and coleslaw. Port Willunga. Open for lunch Wednesday Not anymore. It’s potential for great value to Sunday, dinner Thursday to Saturday. dining for families, holidaymakers and It’s great value, the view is as good as it Phone (08) 8557 7420. locals alike has been unleashed – partly gets, the open terrace is dog friendly (water through a thorough refurbishment and bowls under the tables). It’s very casual but Just a bit further down the coast is a great brightening up that maximised its appeal very comfortable, just what you want by the example of how Adelaide’s beachside right on the seafront, and increasingly beach. West Beach Surf Club, cnr Seaview kiosks and cafes have evolved in recent driven by the then chef Toby Gush’s skills and West Beach roads, West Beach. Open years. Where once you might have in the kitchen. for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Phone (08) 8353 8503. Gush has since moved on to other challenges, but the standards in the Top: Normanville deck exterior. Left: Oceanique fish and chips. 36 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

perthgrapevine BERLINDA CONTI SHE was a proud and elegantly groomed November, has been positively received. For anyone returning to WA, Indigo Oscar matriarch (during her 2012 world tour, Intended as a temporary pop-up during is well worth a visit – if not for anything else Taylor Swift described her as “one of but a Pina Colada and the best sunset the most beautiful places I’ve been…”); ongoing approval stages (this will include sessions in town. perched gracefully over Cottesloe Beach, a multi-level terrace design featuring Indiana Tea House - in her hey-day - was a promenade and public piazza and Indigo Oscar, 99 Marine Parade Cottesloe. considered a design triumph when its a million-dollar upgrade for Cottesloe Open: Wednesday & Thursday: 4pm – late; doors opened to an adoring Perth public Surf Life Saving Club), Indigo Oscar is Friday & Saturday: 12pm – late; Sunday: back in 1996. a delightfully tasteful, tropical themed 12 - 7pm. Bookings: indigooscar.com.au. oasis overlooking Cottesloe Beach with Based on the Centenary Pavilion which uninterrupted views to Rottnest Island, and The anticipated opening of Bar Rogue defined the site from 1929 to 1983, the iconic just a hop-step-and-a-jump to the shoreline. in December last year was a welcome design was intended to be reminiscent of addition to Beaufort Street’s colourful bar the early British colonial architectural style. Designed and delivered by Tattarang’s scene. Created by delightful husband- lifestyle division, Z1Z, Indigo Oscar is one of and-wife team, Sarah and Liam Atkinson The iconic landmark was the hottest place the first major projects for culinary manager (creators of Le Rebelle), Bar Rogue, is a in town for sunset Cosmos, free-flowing Tom Haynes (formerly executive head chef at casual, no-bookings-required 75-person Champagne, and a dozen oysters; where Matt Moran’s Barangaroo House and Solotel, wine bar evoking “I’ll do whatever I darn tourists marvelled at jaw-dropping views, and head chef at Chiswick Restaurant) since want” kind of vibe. and smitten couples went to woo and coo joining the company in July 2021. – quite simply, nothing else compared to its And while Le Rebelle channelled all grandeur along Perth’s coastline. Head chef, Tom Harper, (formerly at West things Parisian-French, the new venue is a Leederville’s Besk), is working closely with white-washed, two-tiered space reflecting But, like all good things, the fun times Haynes to deliver a culinary vision for the speakeasy and modern Milan with a touch seemingly lost their shine, and the once venue; the two previously worked side-by- of Sydney/Melbourne grit and swagger. bustling seaside palace went into a side at Chiswick and Aria Restaurants. hibernation of sorts; neglected and left It’s a fun and carefully curated menu of to gather dust while newer and hipper The menu has a Latin American thread around 12 or so snacky dishes including venues popped up around it. It was a sad with hero dishes like Spencer Gulf kingfish finger sandwiches with cucumber and sight to see. ceviche with melon, cucumber and green chicken skin; cold fried chicken with chilli; pineapple-glazed pork belly skewers caviar and fromage blanc; sweet and sour Now, just over 20 years later, and the old with salsa hogao; and classic corn elotes short ribs; chawanmushi with abalone and girl, along with its surrounds, is receiving with coriander, chilli mayo and feta. mushroom, and the “drool-worthy” sticky the attention it so badly deserves. date pudding reimagined in waffle form. Collaborating with neighbouring ice- Owned by Andrew (Twiggy) Forrest’s creamery, Gusto Gelato, the menu includes Bar Rogue, 515 Beaufort Street, Tattarang Group (property division a refreshing sangria sorbet with coconut Highgate. Open Thursday - Saturday Fiveight, in consultation with Woods Bagot, and pisco which works delightfully well 4 - 11pm; Sunday 2 - 10pm. Bookings: are responsible for the project’s vision), the after a plate of roasted chipotle cauliflower [email protected]. building was originally slated for demolition served with salsa de Maní and crispy fried to make way for an uber-contemporary, chickpeas in paprika salt. Top: Indigo Oscar dish spread. community-friendly development, however, Above: Indiana, Cottesloe beach. over two years of planning and stakeholder A well-rounded beverage list, with - as engagement has ensued - including expected, a funky cocktail selection a public design competition – and the complements the tropical vibes here – the building’s western facade has been retained Indigo Spritz (Tattarang Springs Butterfly - all part of a rejuvenation project designed Pea Gin, Cointreau and lemon) hits the to deliver “a backyard for locals and a front spot nicely; while rum, Mezcal and tequila door for visitors” according to its visionaries. feature broadly alongside jugs of sangria and a diverse wine list with local and First steps have included the re-opening broader reaching labels. Non-alcoholic of the original dining room, which, since options from pioneer producers, such as unlocking its grand timber doors in NON, are also available. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 37

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING THE iconic MLC Centre in Sydney's CBD there were plenty of takers for classics such shishito peppers and accompaniments - has been given a $170 million facelift and as pina colada, Aperol spritz and raspberry and were standouts. Jane's Pink Cake is re-branded as 25 Martin Place. One of the lime mojito during our visit. Instagram fans will the signature dessert - layers of sponge, first venues to highlight the redevelopment find it hard to go past the Fishbowls - 600ml meringue, strawberries and candied rosella is Cabana Bar. Opened in mid-December, servings of Summer Breeze (amaretto, Joseph flowers. Sommelier Kyle Reno Lenci has the property's 100 metre terrace is the Cartron Peche and Mure, lychee, lemon and selected 80 artisanal Aussie wines - 25 by largest in town and offers gun barrel views strawberry soda) and Caribbean Sunset the glass. Pop in for an aperitif or book the down the entire length of Martin Place. (Espolon Blanco Tequila, Cointreau, orange custom-made marble table with its lazy spritz, lime and soda). susan to add a touch of fun to an already Tilly and Wills, the award-winning hospitality first-class experience. group, who also operate Juniper Lane, Bistro The rotating wine list is in the capable Mosman and the Greenwood Hotel, are hands of Katie Murphy, who earned her Jane, 478 Bourke Street, Surry Hills; in charge and it shows. The fitout comes chops in Europe, New York and a 12-year phone 0403 632 355. courtesy of Lucchetti Krelle (Bather's stint with Tilley and Wills. She won my heart Pavilion), who have conjured up a beach-style by approaching our table with a bottle Looking outward onto a busy streetscape is ambiance through ocean blue banquettes, of Veuve Clicquot topped by a Coravin also a major lure of Odd Culture Newtown. rattan furniture, shell sconces and tropical Sparkling device to underscore Cabana's Slap in the middle of King Street, the French greenery. The five function spaces, including strong emphasis on superior wines by the and Japanese inspired diner and wine bar fills two bars and a semi-private dining room, glass. What next? Maybe a 2018 Frogmore the space once inhabited by the dumpling allow patrons to make optimum use of the Creek Pinot Noir or 2020 Pierro Chardonnay go-to - Happy Chef - destroyed by fire four long opening hours - 11.30 am to midnight and plenty more. years ago. There's little of the old ethos left from Monday to Thursday and stretching to and there's a big focus on ferment from craft 2 am on Fridays and Saturdays - for lunches, Cabana is also custom-designed for beers through natural wines and ingredients. dinners and after work drinks. events if you want to cut a dash - privately or professionally. But it's just as appealing for The Odd Culture Group also helms the Brad Sloane, the group executive chef couples of all ages and theatre goers from Oxford Tavern, the Duke of Enmore and the of the Tilley and Wills group, has created the rejuvenated Theatre Royal Sydney nearby. Old Fitzroy hotels and have called in Jesse a menu that walks the line between gastro Whatever the reason for your booking, you will Warkentin (ex-Continental Deli) to helm the pub and sophisticated contemporary. We feel relaxed the moment you walk in and that's ranges. The menu is divided, starting with enjoyed a tasting menu of seasonal oysters what its owners intended. snacks such as Appellation oysters in yuzu with cucumber mignonette, zucchini kosho vinaigrette and chicken liver pate with blossoms stuffed with Italian cheeses, Cabana Bar, 25 Martin Place, Sydney; fish caramel sauce. Or opt for small shares WA grilled scallops in the shell with miso, phone (02) 9215 6000. such as beef tartare with puffed rice, herbs sesame and shallots and tequila cured and lime or confit duck with bitter leaves, corn, salmon and blue corn tostadas, avocado Luchetti Krelle was also responsible for the bacon and hazelnuts. The large plates are crema, jalapeno and lime. interiors of Jane - all gleaming brass, warm visual and taste treats from the blood pancake, toned marble and tanned leather. The latest pork jowl, fried egg and maple syrup to Murray We beefed up these openers with spaghetti, restaurant venture of Tristan Rosier of the cod, bottarga butter and mustard leaves. blue swimmer crab, tomatoes, chilli and herbs. renowned Arthur restaurant only a few doors Other heartier mains include herb crumbed down in Surry Hills, this gorgeous newbie with Jordan Blackman, the beverage manager chicken schnitzel, 250g southern prime sirloin only 30 seats is named after his grandmother. of the Odd Culture Group, has put together the and pan-seared Tasmanian salmon. For those wine selections with a distinct nod to natural in search of more casual listings to fill up on Foodies will remember one of the site's wines. You can also head to the restaurant's there's \"Two Hands\" treats such as the classic former occupants - Bistrode - with fondness wine shop two doors away to take home one or cheeseburger and Californian chicken, as well and Jane's is also worth a pilgrimage. Head more bottlings from one of the most interesting as fish and pulled pork tacos. chef, Victoria Scriven, has taken a more vinous lineups in the Inner West or drink them casual approach, but not so's most people in situ. The decor of wooden tables, suede- Cabana Bar's seaside vibe points up the fact would know it. Think cocktail honey bugs covered banquettes and concrete floors that Sydney is one of the few major cities in with tarragon, an inspired update on prawn makes everyone from local Goths to young the world which also offers close proximity to cocktail, wallaby saucisson, blackberries families and hip seniors feel welcome. a string of world class beaches, making the and cipollini or kangaroo tartare, bush most of its eyrie-like location in the centre of tomato and shoestring fries for starters. Odd Culture Newtown, 262-266 King Street, the city's constantly changing CBD. In short, Newtown; phone (02) 8317 3057. the relaxing oasis hit the ground running with Our choice of mains were - Murray cod, its curated selection of fine wines, cocktails native curry and saltbush and 1kg rib eye, Top: Food from Cabana Bar restaurant. and craft beers, best enjoyed at sunset when there's the possibility of a local version of Manhattanhenge as the sun cuts through the surrounding cityscape. Signature cocktails include Seaside Spritz, a blend of Alize St Germain Elderflower Liqueur, prosecco, lemon and soda, but 38 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

AFOGR IYFOTU GIVE A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION! Do you know someone who would love Winestate Magazine as much as you do? Call us today on +61 8 8357 9277 or visit www.winestate.com.au March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 39

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN WINES OF NSW BEAUTIFUL BERRIMA AND Long Lunch 2022 are Allandale Winery; Bespoke wash and spirit stills were sourced MUDGEE TOP TOURISM Emma's Cottage Vineyard; Gartelmann from Tasmania, and Prof Rasko set out to AWARDS Wines; Saltire Estate; Sandalyn Estate; craft the finest pure malted barley spirit for Tatler Wines and Wandin Valley. maturation in vintage oak barrels sourced MUDGEE in Central West NSW and Berrima from premium Hunter Valley vineyards. in the Southern Highlands won gold medals Tickets are available for either the at the inaugural 2021 Australian Top Saturday or Sunday, or both, and you can Bottling of Two Doctors whiskey is about Tourism Town Awards, which is contested visit up to three wineries per day. A shuttle to get underway, with the first bottles by tourism towns across the country. bus will run between venues. expected to be unveiled in 2022. Historic Berrima was the winner of Small Matt Dillow, owner and chef at Gartelmann “Expert barrel tastings of the Two Doctors Tourism Town (population under 5000), Wines and The Deck Café, Lovedale, said: whiskey have been universally praised and while Mudgee, a leading food and wine “Everyone, including our staff and the reflect both the investment we’ve made in destination, was named as Australia’s Top bands, is pumped for the return of Lovedale the process and John Rasko’s passion and Tourism Town (population over 5000). Long Lunch in 2022. skills,” said Dr Schwartz. For fresh destination ideas for both \"We are also very excited to welcome “What will set Two Doctors whiskey apart Berrima and Mudgee: Rediscover Berrima: back visitors to the region to experience our is that most ‘new world’ distilleries start https://media.destinationnsw.com.au/ wines, food, and stunning venues.” their process with gin, vodka or rum so that rediscover-berrima-perfect-getaway and they can get an early return on investment. Eat Play and Stay, Mudgee style: https:// Amy Cooper, CEO, Hunter Valley Wine But we are focussing exclusively on single media.destinationnsw.com.au/eat-play- and Tourism Association, said: “The malt whiskey, and we have filled some 200 stay-mudgee Lovedale Long Lunch is a signature wine hogsheads over the past seven years. and food event for the Hunter Valley, and LOVEDALE LONG LUNCH it attracts strong visitation and lasting \"No other distillery in Australia is likely to RETURNS memories. It is great to see the organising invest such high levels of dedication and committee and operators planning ahead patience into their whiskey. ONE of the most fun wine events of the year with confidence and we expect this event is returning to the Hunter Valley. to once again be a great success.\" “As a logical extension to the production of the whiskey, I thought we should open The Lovedale Long Lunch, a much-loved A HEALING ELIXIR a dedicated whiskey bar given that I had boutique wine and food festival, has been a perfect space for such a venue at my scheduled for May 14-15, 2022. A visit to the doctors sounds a whole Fairmont Resort. With Prof Rasko’s integral lot more appealing when the doctors in role in our whiskey journey, the bar just had After a two-year hiatus due to Covid-19, the question have a whiskey bar. to be called the Two Doctors Whiskey Tavern. progressive lunch will run all afternoon on both the Saturday and Sunday, with leading Dr Jerry Schwartz and Professor John “There is a medical theme to the bar, local chefs teamed up with seven Lovedale Rasko have crafted Two Doctors Whiskey with various pieces of medical equipment wineries to offer guests food, wine and live and launched a new whiskey bar at installed as ‘furnishings’, though we are music al fresco among the vineyards. Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains. confident that a ‘visit to the doctors’ will be a far more attractive proposition than the Tickets are on sale at www. The two Sydney doctors have unveiled a usual doctor’s appointment. lovedalelonglunch.com.au three-year-old cocktail whiskey made by Prof Rasko to celebrate the launch of the “The Fairmont is a brilliant location for a The seven host wineries for the Lovedale Two Doctors Whiskey Tavern. whiskey bar because the Blue Mountains, with its mist and chill are very reminiscent of The first batch of six-year-old single many Irish and Scottish locations steeped malt whisky, meanwhile, is nearing the in whiskey – or whisky – heritage.\" bottling stage at the Two Doctors' Hunter Valley distillery. See www.fairmontresort.com.au/ restaurants-bars/two-doctors-whisky-tavern/ At one of their early meetings in 2012, Prof Rasko discovered that Dr Schwartz LUXE FARMSTAY operated a brewery in the Hunter Valley, and the two friends decided to establish a JUST 12 minutes from the historic city of distillery to create the first super-premium Bathurst and 40 minutes from the wine whiskey distilled in NSW. country of Orange, Wilga Station offers luxury 40 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

travelbriefs farmstays that will cost you $1,100 a night. Guests can stroll to Morpeth's heritage- measures to reduce the company’s The Shearers Hall on Wilga Station is being listed main street, picnic on the riverbank carbon footprint, such as efficient use of and dine at the Boydell Cellar Door and operational resources, decreasing tractor promoted as \"a new level of luxury farmstay\". Restaurant (which is just 50 metres from hours and installing solar power. The accommodation is in a former working the back gate). In 2016 Ross Hill was the first wine shearer shed that was once a hub of activity The country cottage accommodates up company registered with the Australian on the 105-hectare sheep farm. to four guests and has been designed Federal Government as an NCOS certified with couples in mind and boasts a wood carbon neutral winery. The restored five-bedroom country retreat fire. There is a fully equipped farmhouse is for up to 10 guests. kitchen, Nespresso coffee machine, The winery plays host to two Long Lunch Bosch dishwasher and stove, Smeg kettle functions throughout the year – each spring Expect to see grazing sheep outside your and toaster, leather lounge, ducted air- and autumn. Up to 180 guests enjoy a feast window along with views over Fitzgerald's conditioning, 65cm Smart TV and JBL prepared by renowned chefs. The menu is Valley and Wilga Dam. sound bar. a pairing of food with Ross Hill wines. Think walking tracks, a willow-lined creek Two identical guestrooms offer queen Ross Hill’s cellar door has been expanded and toasted marshmallows and local wine. size iron beds with AH Beard mattresses, with a modern design interpretation and Ingredients for a gourmet breakfast are blackout blinds, quality linen and antique visitors can taste surrounded by green provided, featuring local produce. wardrobes. vines and singing birds. Features include five bedrooms with queen- A separate office-cum-library (along The cellar door also houses Ross Hill’s sized beds, two bathrooms, a fully equipped with fast wifi throughout the house) Barrel & Larder School of Wine and Food. kitchen with oven, cooktop, microwave, allows guests to work, while the outdoor fridge, and a pantry stocked with staples, entertaining space leads to a private rear The Ross Hill Wine Flight and Tasting ceiling fans, a wood fireplace and an garden complete with fire pit where guests Plate consists of local olives, hazelnuts, entertaining deck with barbecue facilities. can gather with glass of wine in hand. cheese, and cured meats matched with selected Ross Hill Wine for $25 per person. If you'd like something a little less spacious, Bookings from $525 per night (minimum Vegetarian and gluten free options are the same farm also has the secluded Farmers two-night stay) through Airbnb. See available upon booking. Hut ($450 a night) - perched on top of a hill riverhaus.com.au. with views across the whole valley. The Cellar Door is open seven days a ROSS HILL LEADING week for wine tastings from 10:30am- It is completely self-contained and suitable DRAWCARD FOR ORANGE 5pm. Bookings are essential. See www. for singles or couples looking for a quiet rosshillwines.com.au getaway with a wood fireplace, king-size ROSS HILL Wines in Orange is a family bed, kitchenette, designer bathroom and a business that has grown over the past Opposite page left to right: Exterior of Berrima, Prof sheltered barbecue area. decade to become one of the region’s John Rasko with his first Two Doctors whiskey at the leading drawcards. Hunter Valley distillery, Jerry Schwartz at Two Doctors See wilgastation.com.au Whiskey Tavern. The story began back in 1994, when Peter Top left: Shearers Hall day bed at Wilga Station ESCAPE TO A HAUS ON THE and Terri Robson purchased a property on near Bathurst. RIVER Griffin Road. At that time there were only a Above: Ross Hill Wines long lunch. handful of other vineyards in Orange, which WHO would know more about curating the is now one of the state’s premium regions. perfect holiday cottage than a professional travel writer? Twelve years later, their son James and his wife Chrissy moved to Orange to bring up The River Haus – a luxe cottage in the their young family and join the family business. historic river port town of Morpeth in the James and Chrissy have taken over the Hunter Valley - is the creation of travel reins of the day-to-day running of the winery writer Sheriden Rhodes and Tom Szecsodi, business, with Peter still very much hands-on. a property developer, who live in nearby Newcastle. Ross Hill Wines has long been committed to sustainability and has introduced The River Haus is set behind a white picket fence, is close to the Hunter River and overlooks the historic St James Anglican Church. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 41

123 TASTED 93 AWARDED WINES OF NEW SOUTH WALES Our first state performs well again across multiple varieties SAUVIGNON Pete's Pure Murray and multiple regions, from cool climate to warm climate. Not BLANC Darling Sauvignon surprisingly the standout class was the semillon class which Blanc 2021 Australia is making its own. The other was shiraz which performed 5 TASTED HHH1/2 92pts well across multiple vintages, a great credit to the viticulturalists 4 AWARDED An aromatic mix of and winemakers. Some good examples tropical fruit and green here showing varietal beans with a soft, SPARKLING Centennial Ross Hill Pinnacle depth. sweet and generous Vineyards Southern Orange Pinot Gris palate of tropical 7 TASTED Highlands Blanc de 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Ross Hill Pinnacle flavours. $14.99 4 AWARDED Blancs NV A well textured, nicely Orange Sauvignon HHHH 94pts balanced, wine with Blanc 2021 Ross Hill Lily Orange The best examples Aged honeyed toasty plenty of flavour. Pear- HHHH1/2 97pts Sauvignon Blanc here showed lovely aromas on the nose like lift to the nose and a A very good, well made, 2021 HHH 90pts complexity and balance. and rich and creamy warm finish. $35 example of the style. Citrus lift to the floral/ “These were well in the mouth with nice Colmar Estate Nose is all pungent tropical nose with made refreshing styles citrus flavours pushing Orange Pinot Gris and tropical with well- similar characters on showing characters through. $40 2021 HHH 91pts balanced tropical fruit the palate. $25 suited to their particular Very floral style with palate, some grassy styles,” noted one Pete's Pure Murray a touch of pear. Good notes and crisp line of OTHER WHITE judge. Darling Prosecco palate texture and nice acid. $35 VARIETALS & 2021 HHH 90pts balancing acidity. $32 The Drover Australia BLENDS Centennial Gentle citrus bouquet Pete's Pure Murray Sauvignon Blanc Vineyards Brut with slight caramel note Darling Pinot Grigio 2021 HHHH 94pts 11 TASTED Traditional Southern and soft citrus flavours 2021 HHH 90pts Pungent estery green 7 AWARDED Highlands Pinot Noir with a crisp finish. Almost lemon peel-like bean characters to the Chardonnay $14.99 fragrances with rich nose and vibrant tropical A mixed result from a Pinot Meunier NV fruit flavours. Good fruit driven palate with mixed group. Good to HHHH 94pts PINOT GRIS/ mouthfeel. $14.99 plenty of crisp acidity. see varietal definition Creamy nougat nose GRIGIO Pig In The House $4.99 coming to the fore. layered with citrus and Organic Cowra apple-like characters. 9 TASTED Pinot Gris 2021 Tempus Two Very toasty palate with 6 AWARDED HHH 90pts Copper Hunter subtle crisp green apple Subtle mix of citrus, Valley Vermentino fruit. $35 A solid class of drinkable floral and some tropical 2021 HHHH 95pts wines. “There is a fine notes with a zesty acid Subtle apple/citrus fruit Centennial line between over-fining finish. $25 fragrances with similar Vineyards Southern and under-fining the Centennial characters on the nicely Highlands Brut Rosé textures of this variety,” Vineyards Winery textured palate. Some NV HHHH 94pts commented one judge. Block Southern attractive phenolics. $30 Interesting pungent “You go from overly Highlands Pinot meaty aromas with a neutral to overly tannic.” Grigio 2021 Monocle Orange very complex balance HHH 90pts Riesling 2021 of fruit, toast and Cooks Lot Allotment A well-made wine HHH1/2 93pts savoury flavours on the 666 Orange that’s a complexity of Aromas reminiscent of palate. $35 Pinot Gris 2021 floral fruit, spices and brown lime with floral HHH1/2 92pts citrus. $29 notes and flavours of Nashi pear–like nose and lime juice with bright good length of tropical line of acid. $30 fruit flavours with palate finishing with a nice Saddler's Creek crispness. $23 Wines Saddlers Hunter Valley Verdelho 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Pretty perfumed nose and a very intense and very flavoursome sweet pome and stonefruit palate. $30 42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

regional tasting Cooks Lot Allotment McGuigan Bin McGuigan Shortlist McGuigan Bin Tempus Two Pewter 5 Handpicked 9000 Hunter Valley Hunter Valley 9000 Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Orange Arneis Semillon 2014 Semillon 2019 Semillon 2021 Semillon 2014 2021 HHH1/2 92pts HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts HHH 90pts Nose of guavas and Pale straw wine with Tight concentrated wine Vibrant lemon zest Toasty marmalade cashews with a pineapple green highlights. Toast with plenty of years to bouquet and a generous, bouquet with hints of note. Rich, slightly sweet, and honey on the nose go. Citrus characters classic, Hunter palate cut grass and big upfront palate with soft fruit with plenty of primary dominate the nose that’s all herbaceous and toasty palate. $60 flavours. $NA fruit showing through. with some toastiness green bean with a lime Super complex custard developing and zesty finish. $25 CHARDONNAY Iron Gate Estate tart of a palate; long and lime length to the Tempus Two Pewter & BLENDS Estate Hunter Valley balanced. $50 palate. $30 Hunter Valley Verdelho 2021 McGuigan Bin McGuigan Shortlist Semillon 2015 16 TASTED HHH1/2 92pts 9000 Hunter Valley Hunter Valley HHHH 94pts 12 AWARDED A well-made linear style, Semillon 2007 Semillon 2014 Developed aromas of pale yellow with green HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts toast and marmalade A solid class with good hues and good length A beautiful wine, super “A very good wine,” with great depth of rich results overall, but there of pretty floral fruit complex with buttered enthused one judge. orange peel flavours with were some that had - characters. $30 toast and lemon curd- Subtle citrus and a crisp line of acid. $50 “Borderline overuse of like characters showing cut hay notes to the Tempus Two Uno oak,” agreed the judges. Colmar Estate Le a lovely, honeyed edge. toasty lemon nose Hunter Valley “The new style of lighter Moche Orange A great drink with a and a vibrant lemon Semillon 2014 fruit winemaking tends Pinot Gris Riesling long lingering toasty curd palate with lovely HHHH 94pts to create more neutral Gewurztraminer finish. $50 mouthfeel. $50 Big super complex wines with little room 2021 HHH 90pts Tempus Two Copper McGuigan Bin toasty buttery for building structure Lots of floral fragrances Hunter Valley 9000 Hunter Valley style with hints of and complexity,” said and flavours. Some fruit Semillon 2021 Semillon 2011 marmalade, honeyed one judge. sweetness balanced by HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH1/2 96pts notes and brown lime racy acidity. $32 Brown lime/floral Lovely, elegant wine characters. $50 McGuigan Cellar fragrances and super with fragrances of toast Dindima Unoaked Select Tumbarumba Gallagher Canberra rich full flavoured and lemon. Good length Orange Semillon Chardonnay 2019 District Riesling monster of a palate and depth of toasty lime 2021 HHH1/2 93pts HHHHH 98pts 2021 HHH 90pts with a lovely phenolic flavours nicely balanced Slight herbal bouquet A beautifully balanced Neutral nose with a balance. “A sleeper!” by crisp line of acid. and some citrus flavours wine with a big buttery/ floral notes and tight, One for the cellar. $30 Limes on the finish. $50 on the palate with toasty nose showing crisp, acid driven varietal McGuigan Shortlist McGuigan Bin classical hessian-like some roasted hazelnut palate. $35 Hunter Valley 9000 Hunter Valley elements. $25 nuances. Great length Semillon 2018 Semillon 2019 Tempus Two Uno and texture to the SEMILLON & HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH 95pts Hunter Valley nutty/peach palate. “A BLENDS Very tightly wound, “A lovely developing Semillon 2016 punter’s delight!” $22 beautifully structured wine,” noted one HHH1/2 93pts 20 TASTED semillon starting to judge that is a delicious Toasty nose with a Fullylove 19 AWARDED “complex up”. Zesty complexity of lemons, zesty citrus lift and great Tumbarumba fresh citrus nose and a limes, toast and honey. length and complexity Chardonnay 2021 Excellent class of minerally citrus palate $25 of toasty honeyed citrus HHHH 94pts consistent wines mainly with good line of acid. $30 McGuigan Bin flavours. $60 Nicely balanced, from one company! Saddler's Creek 9000 Hunter Valley McGuigan Shortlist slightly greener, style “It is the difference of Wines Ryans Semillon 2018 Hunter Valley of chardonnay with varietal conditions that Reserve Hunter HHHH 95pts Semillon 2013 gentle citrus fruit, floral make the difference,” Valley Semillon Smells of buttered toast HHH 91pts notes and bright line of said one judge. “It is 2021 HHHH1/2 with some citrus behind. “A wine that will last acid. $25 such a subtle grape; you 97pts Nice toasty length to the a long time!” Still can have a ten-year-old A lovely wine with an complex palate but still plenty of primary fruit Iron Gate Estate wine that is fresher elegance of pretty floral has primary fruit. $25 characters evident. $50 Primera Hunter than a five-year-old. and cut-grass aromas. 2 Monkeys Australia Tempus Two Pewter Valley Chardonnay Great winemaking skills The tight, seamlessly Semillon Sauvignon Hunter Valley 2021 HHHH 94pts consistently applied balanced, palate has Blanc 2021 Semillon 2013 “Woody but good!” here.” great fruit intensity and HHHH 94pts HHH 91pts Some melon and citrus bright acidity. $40 Citrusy aromas with a Toasty nose with on the nose and a long tropical touch and grassy typical kerosene-like peaches and cream hints. Some guava and development and good palate with crisp line of pineapple-like flavours depth of flavour. $50 acid. $35 with a zesty acid finish. $6.99 March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 43

WINES OF NSW Ross Hill Reserve Nericon Australia McGuigan Cellar Iron Gate Estate PINOT NOIR Orange Chardonnay Chardonnay 2020 Select Hunter Valley Primera Hilltops 2019 HHHH 94pts HHH 90pts Rosé 2021 Tempranillo Shiraz 7 TASTED Peaches and sweet Lots of stonefruit, HHH1/2 92pts 2021 HHHH 94pts 6 AWARDED spices on the nose pineapple and citrus A well-made pale Vibrant purple wine with with vanillin oak characters here. Some pink wine with sweet subtle plum/blackberry A very solid flight! underneath which is sweetness with tangy strawberry aromas and aromas and generous “Winemakers have echoed on the long, acidity. $11.99 a seamlessly balanced raspberry/plum-like caught up with the style balanced palate. $75 berry fruit palate. $22 flavours on a soft well- and are not making the Tempus Two Pewter Iron Gate Estate structured palate. $32 over extracted wines Poppys Hunter Primera Hunter Monocle Orange Pete's Pure Murray of the past and treating Valley Chardonnay Valley Chardonnay Rosé 2021 Darling Merlot 2021 the fruit with respect,” 2018 HHHH 94pts 2019 HHH 90pts HHH1/2 92pts HHH1/2 92pts commented one judge. A nice wine with good Quite jammy melon Nose is a subtlety Crimson/purple hues, varietal depth. Sweet fruit fragrances with of rose petals and floral berry nose and Cooks Lot Iconique spicy oak dominates the stewed fruit compote of lavender and palate has lots of juicy fruit flavours Barrique R16R17 rock melon and peach a palate. $35 a freshness of potpourri with a soft tannin Orange Pinot Noir fruit characters. Subtle and strawberries. $30 backbone. $14.99 2019 HHHH 94pts tannins. $40 Colmar Estate Centennial Vibrant dark fruit Allegiance Wines Block 1 Orange Colmar Estate Vineyards Bridge fragrances with floral The Matron Chardonnay 2018 Orange Pinot Rosé Creek Orange touches and meaty Tumbarumba HHH 90pts 2021 HHH 90pts Mencia 2019 notes. Nice savoury Chardonnay 2021 A rich wine of melon-like Pungent toasty berry HHH1/2 92pts length to the palate with HHH1/2 92pts fruit, oak and toasty bouquet with a similar Minty dark berry a raspberry finish. $50 Toasty and slightly floral notes and an orange palate and showing bouquet and some fragrances with subtle peel-like finish. $48 savoury notes. $32 interesting spiciness Pete's Pure Murray citrus notes. Lots of to the blue fruit palate; Darling Pinot Noir nice peach and apricot ROSÉ OTHER RED some astringency. $30 2021 HHH1/2 92pts flavours. $25 VARIETALS & Nericon Australia Plum, berries and spices Pete's Pure Murray 7 TASTED BLENDS Durif 2019 on the nose with floral Darling Chardonnay 4 AWARDED HHH 91pts notes and a soft, elegant 2021 HHH 90pts 10 TASTED Licorice and plums on raspberries and cream Peaches and melons A mixed group of 7 AWARDED the nose with dense palate. $14.99 lift off the nose with styles; some were rich flavours and lovely obvious tropical fruit defined rosés while “These wines were tannins. $11.99 Cooks Lot Iconique flavours. $14.99 others seemed more made to express the Ross Hill Isabelle Barrique R18 Orange Midnight's Promise like bi-products or fruit and were not Orange Cabernet Pinot Noir 2019 Hunter Chardonnay afterthoughts. The best overworked,” said one Franc Merlot 2019 HHH1/2 92pts 2021 HHH 90pts were well structured judge. “This is what the HHH 91pts Slightly sweet floral An oak driven style without excessive market is lacking at the Big eucalypt lift to the fruit fragrances with with subtle citrus and phenolic overtones. moment.” berry nose with a green generous raspberry fruit rock melon-like fruit bean palate showing flavours on a long well- characters. $23 Pig In The House Tempus Two Copper minty notes. $30 structured palate. $50 Peter Drayton Organic Cowra Rosé Tumbarumba Saddler's Creek Wildstreak Hunter 2021 HHHH 94pts Gamay 2021 Wines Alessandro Ross Hill Harry Valley Chardonnay A floral confectionery red HHHH1/2 97pts Reserve Mudgee Orange Pinot Noir 2021 HHH 90pts berry bouquet and good Intense floral and Merlot 2018 HHH 2019 HHH 91pts A richer butterscotch length of strawberry- berry bouquet with a 91pts Deep crimson wine driven style with hints like flavours with some peppery note. Bright A lovely generosity of with dark cherry fruit, of pineapple elements astringency. $25 fruit on the palate with blackcurrant-like fruit, chocolaty characters and underneath. $30 some savoury/stalky cedary oak and huge a savoury element. $30 characters and lovely velvety tannins. $75 crunchy acidity. $35 JUDGES David Horne David Fleming James Evers Winemaker for Petaluma Winemaker for Senior Winemaker, Nepenthe Wines, part of Accolade Scarpantoni Wines. Has Wines and Australian Vintage Group. Four years vintaged in California, (SA Premiums for 11 years). winemaking in the Hunter at Italy, Canada and Hungary. Previously winemaker at Bimbadgen and Arrowfield, Formerly winemaker Mildara, Coonawarra and before moving to Grant at Seppeltsfield in the Glendonbrook and Rothbury Burge Wines, Barossa and Barossa Valley. in the Hunter Valley. then Petaluma. Judged at the Barossa wine show. 44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

regional tasting Tempus Two Copper The Drover Australia Saddler's Creek Tumbarumba Shiraz 2021 Wines Saddlers Pinot Noir 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Hunter Valley Shiraz HHH 90pts A straightforward fruit 2019 HHH1/2 92pts A lighter, slightly driven style – loads of Blueberries and spices stalkier, style with floral blackberry and plum evident here with a hint red berry fruit and good fruit, crisp acid and of figs, generous velvety line of acid. $35 balancing tannins. tannins and good acid Cooks Lot Iconique $4.99 grip. $36 Barrique R16R17 Unfiltered Orange Pete's Pure Murray McGuigan Personal Pinot Noir 2019 Darling Shiraz 2020 Reserve Bainton HHH 90pts HHH1/2 92pts Hunter Valley Shiraz A nose of plums and Aromas of blackcurrants 2019 HHH 91pts berries with savoury/ with a eucalypt-like lift A chocolaty/fruit cake herbal notes and a with similar characters of a shiraz with some similar palate. $50 echoed on the medium leathery notes and crisp bodied palate. $14.99 acid. $60 CABERNET Gallagher Canberra Ross Hill Pinnacle Pig In The House Tempus Two Uno SAUVIGNON & District Shiraz 2018 Orange Shiraz 2019 Organic Cowra Hunter Valley Shiraz BLENDS HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH 94pts Shiraz 2020 2019 HHH 91pts A very good wine – A subtlety of plums HHH1/2 92pts A bigger style with 4 TASTED quite dark and brooding and berries lift off the Raspberry jelly-like very ripe fruit, savoury 1 AWARDED with a savoury nose nose with some sweet bouquet with floral notes and “blocky” showing a black fruit and obvious oak notes and mouth-filling tannins. $75 Only one example peppery lift and very on the nicely balanced confectionery berry and McGuigan Personal worthy here and a steal briary/blackcurrant palate. $50 raspberry flavours. $25 Reserve Vanessa at the price! palate with savoury McGuigan Personal McGuigan Personal Vale Hunter Valley tannins and good Reserve Oldman Reserve Vanessa Shiraz 2017 The Drover Australia acidity. $35 Hunter Valley Shiraz Vale Hunter Valley HHH 91pts Cabernet Sauvignon Tempus Two Uno 2019 HHHH 94pts Shiraz 2019 Deep red wine ageing 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Hunter Valley A big brooding inky HHH1/2 92pts beautifully. Lovely fruit An uncomplicated Shiraz 2018 red tannic wine that, Plum and raspberry depth. Plenty of life left fruit driven cabernet HHHH1/2 97pts “Needs a big steak!” fruit characters here in it yet! $60 that is all raspberries A seamlessly balanced Has layers of dark berry with plenty of toasty Tempus Two Uno and blackcurrants with and very flavoursome fruits, smoky oak and oak and good level of Hunter Valley Shiraz supporting oak. $4.99 shiraz with loads of spices. $60 tannins. $60 2013 HHH 91pts cherry and blackberry McGuigan Personal Tempus Two Uno Big toasty oak nose SHIRAZ & fruit characters, plenty Reserve Bainton 'Tinklers' Hunter with berry notes. BLENDS of oak and velvety Hunter Valley Shiraz Valley Shiraz Nicely integrated fruit, smooth tannins. $75 2017 HHHH 94pts Pinot Noir 2017 oak and tannins on the 26 TASTED Midnight's Promise Subtle spicy plum and HHH1/2 92pts palate. $75 22 AWARDED Hunter Shiraz 2020 vanilla aromas. Great An unusual distinct style Tempus Two Copper HHHH 94pts depth of fruit and lots of with stalky/nutty nose GG Gundagai Shiraz As expected, this was a A dark brooding ripe oak on the lovely, well- and palate and hints 2016 HHH 91pts very solid class. “These fruit style with lovely balanced palate. $60 of chocolate cake-like Soft, complex and well- are getting better and layers of raspberries, characters. $75 integrated oak and fruit. better with the Hunter plums, spices, Some olive tapenade wines in particular eucalypt and chocolate characters. $50 improving by not trying characters. $25 Windowrie The Mill to overdo ripeness and Central Ranges sticking to mid-weight Shiraz 2021 styles,” said one judge. HHH 90pts “It was also pleasing Black fruit aromas and to see the right oak generous plum driven balance to match the flavours with balancing fruit density.” tannins. $20 March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 45

WINES OF NSW Midnight's Promise Tempus Two Copper STAR RATINGS  Hunter Shiraz 2019 HV Hunter Valley HHH 90pts Shiraz 2014 Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Subtle red and black HHH 90pts excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. fruit characters, plenty A complex wine with All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry of oak and balancing gentle fruit somewhat professionals and are compared in peer tannins. $25 dominated by the oak. classes by three judges. McGuigan Cellar Good acidity. $50 CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Select Hunter Valley a major mail-order business. Shiraz 2019 SWEET CD Cellar door price. HHH 90pts WHITES CDO Cellar door only. Lifted dark berry fruit, SO Sold out. some floral notes and 1 TASTED $N/A Price not available at time of printing. crunchy acidity. A 1 AWARDED chunky style. $30  Contact information pg 73. Tempus Two Uno One good example of a 'Bainton' Hunter well-balanced luscious RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Valley Shiraz style. Pinot Noir 2017 HHH 90pts Berton Vineyards A lighter style; some Reserve Riverina fruit and good oak length Botrytis Semillon with aged characters 2019 HHHH 95pts developing. $75 Wonderfully lively honeyed marmalade- like fruit characters on the nose and a huge luscious apricot driven palate with crisp acid finish. $20 CONNECT ON SOCIAL WITH WINESTATE www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine twitter.com/winestateed www.instagram.com/winestate/ Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings, competitions and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. 46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

varietal tasting Book a Luxury Gourmet Gift Hamper Now! The ultimate gift for foodies in your life, packed full of award winning gourmet goodies, wines & spirits from boutique producers. Mango & macadamia, sticky date, triple chocolate or traditional christmas puddings, lemon, lime & blood orange macadamia oil with wild lime, vanilla bean salted caramel, black genoa fig & ginger jam, davidsons plum finishing vinegar, diane sauce with buttery leek, lemon myrtle muffin mix, traditional Italian style biscotti, fig & honey caramelised balsamic, green peppercorn & brandy sauce, premade Manhattans, Negronis & Old Fashioneds, caramelised garlic & kaffir lime aioli and so much more... $25 OFF* (uFseorcRWoedaiend:ewesrtinsaetestate) Visit www.huntervalleyhampers.com.au See the full range of over 200 gourmet items, create your own hamper or choose from our selection. Phone: 02 9620 4499 • Corporate enquiries & winery collabs welcome Bulk Gifts? Easy multi-address ordering & gifting specialists on hand to help you. * No minimum purchase, $25 off deal is only available to first time buyers from Hunter Valley Hampers.

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY SMALL VICTORIES FOR table wine was negligible, the vineyard had ARTISTIC COLLABORATION ESTABLISHED WINERY become derelict. After years of no interest, in 1980 the real estate agent eventually offered THE recently opened Artisans of the Barossa AS Barossa winery Elderton celebrates the Ashmeads the 72-acre vineyard as a facility is a collaboration of eight independent 40 vintages this year, it also has another bonus, as part of the sale of the homestead. and prominent Barossa Valley winemakers. milestone worth marking. Family owned and operated Elderton is now a certified member In 1982, after restoration works in the The contemporary premises were built by of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia. vineyard, Elderton Wines was born. local construction superstar, Stefan Ahrens through his family business, structural steel \"We now measure all of the aspects of land The second generation, Cameron and specialists, Ahrens Group. and soil, water, biodiversity, energy and waste Allister and their families, took the reins and measure it against our peers with the aim of the business in 2003. Ahrens is also the owner of the magnificent, of further improving our sustainable practices,\" recently renovated, and extended Kingsford says co-owner Cameron Ashmead. Elderton is now sharing its cellar door The Barossa boutique accommodation. with an interloper. Sort of. \"It is exciting what is happening here The Artisans building grew from an old at Elderton, especially in relation to our A sign went up recently to show that chook shed, retaining much of the rustic partnership with Carbon Neutral and our work newly launched Small Victories Wine character, but otherwise completely rebuilt to offsetting all of our emissions. Co is now showcased at the Ashmead the modern standards. A most unconventional family's cellar door in Nuriootpa. approach, but the result is stunning and \"My brother, Allister, and I together run our perfectly in keeping with the setting, just second-generation family-owned winery Small Victories is, in fact, part of metres from expansive vineyards. in Australia's famous Barossa Valley, and the same family, as it is operated by we strive for excellence from distinguished Ashmead sisters-in-law Jules and Bec. “We built our home as a place where we vineyard sites in the region.\" could share everything about the Barossa,” Julie Ashmead is the head winemaker. said MD Howard Duncan during the opening Elderton was founded by the late Neil Wine is in her blood, as she comes of Artisans “and what brings us together is a Ashmead and his wife Lorraine, who had from a family with five generations of shared commitment to protect and promote been working in Saudi Arabia but wanted to winemakers and winemaking history - the the art of small batch winemaking as well as raise their family in Australia. Campbells of Rutherglen. lifting the sometimes bland experience of wine tasting to a fuller, more complete one of The family homestead, in the heart She has worked at wineries around wine enjoyment.” of the township of Nuriootpa, was the world, and is mum to three boys, surrounded by extremely old shiraz and Angus, Wills and Louis, with her husband To this extent, The Artisans offers a graduated cabernet sauvignon vines. Cameron Ashmead. introduction to the vast array of wines bottled both under individual and house labels with At a time where demand for Australian Bec Ashmead has a wine marketing such non-typical varieties as montepulciano, background and is the \"production guru\". She sagrantino, mataro and cinsault. is mum to three girls, Charlotte, Sophie, and Annabel, with her husband Allister Ashmead. Six of the winemakers launched ‘Grenache Project 20’ where each dedicated a single row “The wines are seriously good but are of the grape in their vineyards and are then made with an element of fun,\" Bec Ashmead left to their own devices. says. \"You don’t need to sit around talking about them, instead enjoy the moment as “What we’re doing with the Grenache you savour them with friends and loved ones. Project is bloody important,” says Peter Schell from Spinifex Wines, “It’s symbolic \"Our wines are ready to drink right now. You of the commitment of artisan winemakers do not need a cellar to enjoy Small Victories and growers to exhibit the best of their Wine Co – you do not need to worry about craft from the region’s ancient soils, and whether you are opening it too early, or too nurture new audiences for these brilliant late. Go ahead, open that bottle tonight.\" heritage varieties.” All Small Victories Wine Co wines are The exclusive Voyager Club can be made vegan friendly and are produced at approached in any of three levels: the Elderton winery, which has solar power Discoveries, Adventures and Rarities, across the production facilities. Also, 100% where guests can enjoy a guided tasting of the winery water is recycled back onto of between four to six wines. the family vineyards in Nuriootpa. See www.smallvictorieswine.com 48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022

travelbriefs The Discoveries introductory tasting patch of gnarly old shiraz vines from the featuring premium products while also selection ranges in price from $28-$35, original 1843 plantings was discovered. showcasing local produce/products. Adventures $39-$56, while Rarities opens the door to the premium $62 to $189 selection. The most important task was to rescue Many wines will come from within the them, and after some tender loving care Barossa Valley GI and Eden Valley GI from A premium eatery, Essen, is also part of the vineyard was successfully revived and producers who do not have a cellar door. the concept and offers exceptional locally named The Freedom. After careful viticulture, sourced produce from the surrounding Langmeil's first harvest from the Freedom HUB FOR BAROSSA district. You can find the rotating menu vineyard was in 1997. here: https://artisansofbarossa.com/ WINE business giant Accolade Wines has pages/restaurant-bookings. The Freedom Experience is nothing short of unveiled details of a multi-million-dollar project an adventure for old vine wine lovers looking in the Barossa Valley that will offer premium Find them at the big new roundabout: for total immersion in the Barossa region. multi-brand cellar door experiences. 24 Vine Vale Road, Tanunda. Call (08) 8563 3935 or look them up online at www. The tour begins with an explanation of the Set to launch late 2022, the tourism landmark artisansofbarossa.com region's geography, settlement, and broader will highlight case wines from three South agricultural history. Australian brands owned by Accolade: Grant MORE THAN WINE Burge, Rolf Binder and St Hallett, on a site Next, you move on to viticulture and a visit adjacent to the current St Hallett facility. THE Langmeil cellar door in the Barossa offers to that ancient vineyard before retiring to the more than just a wine tasting experience. privacy and ambience of the Freedom Cellar The purpose-built space will span over for samplings and stories of the Old Vine 600sq metres and will be built adjacent to Visitors to Langmeil also get to step back in Garden Collection. The tour is $100 per head the existing heritage cellar, working winery time and (for a fee) get to taste a wine made and strictly by appointment. and landscaped grounds. from what are believed to be the oldest shiraz vines in the world. GOURMET’S NEW GO-TO The new site will also feature a restaurant and functions facility, along with the cellar Once a derelict winery built amongst an GOURMETS have a new “go to” destination door and tasting room, says national cellar abandoned trading village of a bygone with the opening of Culture Shock Provisions door manager Andrew McDowell. era, Langmeil Winery is now a revived and in Tanunda. captivating \"must do\" for any wine lovers “Putting the customer experience to visiting the Barossa. It is the second shop for Kerry Treuel and the forefront of our thinking has driven Mathew McNamara, the son of one of the this project,\" says McDowell. \"We have Guests are introduced to Barossa Valley region’s most famous chefs, Mark McNamara. spent a lot of time getting the concept and Eden Valley wines - and a free flight of The couple also operates Culture Shock in the right, making sure we are enhancing the rieslings is sometimes on the tasting menu. Adelaide suburb of Unley. site, while protecting the heritage and history - to create a true destination for Tastings are a seated experience The new deli offers cheeses from around the these three celebrated wine brands.” and bookings are preferred and take world, cured meats, other deli items, coffee precedence over walk-ins. and a wide selection of wines at the former Accolade Wines has been working with Domain Barossa site. architectural group studio-gram on the For anyone wanting a complete Barossa designs. experience, the Freedom Cellar, which was The business has been tailored to appeal originally the cobbler's shop in the historic to not only visitors to the region, wanting \"They understand the needs and function trading village, is now open. to experience the Barossa, but also to of a venue,\" says McDowell. \"They design in the local community and industry through a way to mitigate issues, and in this instance Lovingly restored, the cellar is now the the showcasing of local, interstate, and have channelled the Australian hues and ultimate location in which to sample Langmeil’s international produce, products and liquors. landscape, to create a bespoke space with Old Vine Garden wines as part of a hosted a unique personality.\" winery and historic vineyard experience. There were previously no businesses in the Barossa Valley region that sell the cheese McDowell says the aim will be to ensure the The two-three-hour tours operate Monday and smallgoods on offer. French wines are gastronomic experience is a premium offering to Fridays only. available to match French cheeses and in a relaxed atmosphere. local 'new age/alternative' Barossa wines to The Langmeil property was revived in 1996 accompany a local produce platter. “We will be inviting leading operators from when Richard Lindner, Carl Lindner and Chris around the country to partner with us in this Bitter, whose families have lived in the Barossa Unley carries 100+ cheeses and 60+ exciting opportunity,” he said. for several generations, restored the old smallgoods at any one time. The new buildings, well and landscaped the grounds. Tanunda premises are a boutique version The project is currently being assessed by The Barossa Council for planning approval. In the clean-up prior to restoration, a small The project will be built at 24 St Hallett Road, Tanunda. Opposite page: Jules and Bec with Small Victories range of wines. Top left: The Artisans of the Barossa. March/April 2022 W I N E S TAT E 49

B AROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY 114 TASTED 84 AWARDED BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY A very nice judging of wines from arguably Australia's best known OTHER WHITE wine region. As expected here we saw lots of flavoursome, richly VARIETALS & styled wines, but interestingly also a move towards mid-weight BLENDS more elegant styles. However, our view is \"don't throw the baby out with the bathwater\". When you have the flavour that others 7 TASTED dream of why would you tamper with it? Go with your strengths! 7 AWARDED Consistent group with SPARKLING Paisley Cashmere Corryton Burge Barossa Boy the varieties true to Eden Valley Kith Eden Valley Cheeky Tilly Eden type. “These are pure 1 TASTED Riesling 2021 Riesling 2021 Valley Riesling 2021 varietals, not tricked 1 AWARDED HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts up,” commented one A great wine. Lime- Bright light and spicy floral Muted estery citrus judge. Just one nice example like aromas with a fruit fragrances. Fresh bouquet with great to be had here but honeysuckle-like lift. and lively in the mouth length and elegance Gumpara Frieda's definitely worth seeking More jasmine on the with a zesty, varietally of melon and lemon Old Vine Barossa out! A lovely older style. nicely textured palate pure, citrus/lemon flavour flavours with balancing Valley Semillon with orange zest and profile. $28 acidity. $30 2021 HHHHH 98pts Gatt Barossa Valley lemon peel flavours. $30 Gatt High Eden Eden Gatt High Eden Eden Lovely inviting lift of Sparkling Shiraz Winton Road Valley Riesling 2017 Valley Riesling 2021 grassy/snow pea aromas 2015 HHH1/2 93pts Barossa Valley Eden HHHH 95pts HHHH 94pts with a nicely poised, Lifted fruity nose with Valley Riesling 2021 A toasty nose showing Subtle floral fruit nose seamlessly balanced, “serious” base material HHHH1/2 97pts typical kero-like aged and good citrus drive palate with persistent on the complex lifted A delicate nose characters and a lemon to the generous palate. flavours and very good and slightly sweet reminiscent of Granny butter palate with youthful Some melon notes, acid backbone. $28 palate. $36 Smith apples with acid backbone. $30 strong acid and zippy Gatt Accent Barossa similar characters finish. $30 Valley Viognier 2019 RIESLING on the long juicy Z Wine [SAUL] Eden HHHH1/2 96pts palate. Some residual Valley Riesling 2021 An elegant grassy nose 9 TASTED sweetness balanced by HHH 91pts with subtle apricot 7 AWARDED the acid. $40 Bright and light with notes. Long, lingering some secondary and solid varietal fruit A very strong and characters developing characters on the consistent class and slight toffee slightly oily textured showing good pure sweetness. $35 palate. $19.90 varietal fruit and natural acidity. Some variability with sugar levels but excellent balance across the board. 50 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2022