Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel ReviewsAUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE ANNUAL Edition 2019 SPECIAL EDITION 2018 69-Page special feature The best wines, winemakers & wine companies of the year from Australia & New Zealand Vin2t0a1g8e ReportAnnual 2019Vol 42 Issue 1$14 AUS (inc GST)NZ $15 SGD $19US $17.99 GBP £11.95EUR 9.95 China RMB120HKD $150 CHF 20.00 ZAR 250 The pick of the crop from over 10,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2018

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Where it all began... Schubert Estate is located on some of the most sought-after pieces of dirt in the Barossa Valley - a special patch of five blocks terroir in Marananga in the Western Barossa. “The vines grow on red-brown loam over clay, ironstone and shale on a slightly elevated ridge of about 300 metres.” The terroir of the vineyard site leads to a strong expression of Barossa Valley Shiraz - wines that are opulent, concentrated and rich, packed with black fruit, chocolate and licorice aromas, expressive tannins and structured for aging. The wines have won many international awards. Today Schubert Estate has a “Five Star” rating for its Sentinel brand in Winestate magazine’s World’s Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge 2018. The flagship wines - The Goose-yard Block Shiraz and The Gander Reserve Shiraz also regularly receive high scores. www Discover our wines at: Adelaide City Cellar Door Open weekdays 9.00am - 5.00pm 26 Kensington Road, Rose Park SA 5067 Phone 08 8431 1457 Barossa Valley Cellar DoorOpen Thursday to Sunday, 10.00am - 4.30pm 261 Roennfeldt Road, Marananga SA 5055 Phone 08 8431 1457 www.schubertestate.com

Award Winning Wines It is our goal and mission to produce world-class wines from some of Australia’s oldest vines, planted in McLaren Vale, South Australia. Grandeur Wellington 201 Blewitt Springs Rd McLaren Flat SA 5171 Phone: 08 8383 0866 [email protected] w w. g r a n d e u rw e l l i n g to n . c o m . a u

NO.293 ANNUAL 2019Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely YorkeManaging Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] PeninsulaNZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager E: [email protected] Coordinator Sophia Clements E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Erin LarkinQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinHONG KONG Lucy JenkinsADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalWinestate PublishingPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] OgdenLifestyle Media Vic Pty LtdPhone: 03 9696 9960Email: [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comEmail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Cellar Door and Function Centre81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Open 7 days 10am-5pmCopyright 2019 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic Maitland, South Australiamedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Phone (08) 8834 1258Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. barleystackswines.comABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 7

contentsANNUAL 2019R E G U L A R S FEATURES 12 Briefs 32 GRUNER THE GREAT of the “very best vintages in the last 26 European Report with Sally Easton Austrian star gruner vetliner is making giant 10 years”. McLaren Vale and Kangaroo 28 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Island each had “belter” seasons, and the 30 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King inroads into the Australian wine market, Coonawarra’s “superb conditions” led to 42 Grapevine writes Dan Traucki. Since Australia’s first an amazing vintage. 118 Wine Investment & Collecting gruner vintage in 2009, 44 wineries nation- 122 What’s it Worth? wide are now bottling this cool-climate white. 197 VICTORIA:2 03 Subscription Form And to highlight gruner’s emergence as a2 34 Aftertaste serious white, Winestate and the Australian FIGHTING BACK Wine Marketing Board have collaborated to Italian grape growers have again takenPLUS-THE BEST conduct the first Global Gruner Challenge.OF THE BEST See page 32 for all the awards. aim at the Australian industry - this timeWe revisit the most outstanding wines - rated over nero d’avola, planted extensively infour stars and above - that we tasted in 2018. 38 2018 VINTAGE REPORT the Heathcote region - after failing in their AS GOOD AS IT GETS attempt to stop prosecco growers using 124 Gruner Veltliner Tasting Australia-wide, reports Charles Gent, the term “prosecco”, reports Jeni Port. 128 Rosé Tasting Italians claim it’s a protected geographical 132 New Release Tasting grape growers have labelled the 2017-18 indication, while the Aussies counter that 138 Best of Best Value Buys 2018 under $20 growing season as one of the best. Time it’s a grape variety and the Europeans are 142 Best of Styles and time again, growers used superlatives playing politics. And growers fear that this 170 Best of New Releases like “pearler,” “a cracker” and “epic” attack could continue as the Italians could 186 Best of South Australia to describe the fruit quality. From the claim any grape with a reference to a town 199 Best of Victoria northern Queensland Granite Belt to the or municipality could be targeted next.2 06 Best of New South Wales cool Tasmanian hills, and from West to 215 Best of Western Australia the Eastern Hunter region the industry 205 NEW SOUTH WALES: 220 Best of New Zealand is unanimous in its expectations for the 227 Best of NZ Recent Releases 2018 vintage. And on the money side, expanding HAPPY DAYS AS REDS AND exports exceeding $2.7 billion and grapeWinestate Magazine prices up by an average 8 per cent, the WHITES DELIVERIssue Number 89 industry looks set for a “purple patch”. The reds have been given a “nine out of 10”Annual 2019 AWARDS 2018 and the whites “a solid eight” in a state-Cover Image & Wine of the Year Awards Feature wide assessment of vintage 2018, reportsBrendan Homan 49 WINE OF THE YEAR Rick Allen. The Hunter, Orange, Mudgee and Canberra regions battled dry conditions to SPECIAL WOYA FEATURE deliver a vintage of promise. In the Hunter The leading lights of 2018 - the wines, the there’s a real feeling of optimism. As one grower put it: “I think the 2018 vintage will makers and industry personalities - have be looked upon in years to come as a very been announced and now it’s celebration serious vintage indeed for the Hunter.” time as we bring to you all their achievements in our special Winestate 213 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: Annual Wine of the Year Awards. RETURN OF THE GOOD TIMES THE YEAR IN THE A mild summer and near-perfect growing REAR-VIEW MIRROR conditions have Swan Valley producers 183 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: claiming 2018 as “the best in 30 years,” ONE FOR THE AGES writes Mike Zekulich. The optimism is further Vintage 2018 was one of those years when fuelled by record wine export earnings pouring into the State. In Porongurup, Castle things just fell into place, writes Karyn Rock’s Robert Diletti described the season Foster. In the Riverland where decent rains as: “It could not have been better. If I could haven’t been seen for two years, irrigation, dial up a vintage, this would be it.” heavy mulching and “clever techniques” have produced better quality wines than 218 NEW ZEALAND: ever. The Barossa’s grapes came through two heat events to deliver generous QUENCHING A BIG THIRST flavoured whites and reds with heaps of Wine exports continue to dominate the varietal characters. In the Adelaide Hills growers have tagged the season one island nation’s economy, reports Michael Cooper. They are now approaching $NZ2 billion annually and are the fifth most valuable export commodity. And much of this is thanks to the insatiable demand from the US, where a fast-growing thirst for sauvignon blanc shows no signs of slowing. Around the world about five-million glasses of NZ wine is consumed daily, but while export demand is up, locals have cut back consumption - but only marginally.8 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019



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editorialWELCOME TO OUR BLOCKBUSTER WINESTATE ANNUAL BUYING GUIDE. Here we showall those wines that have achieved four stars or higher throughout the year. It is a massive list, all judged blind,reflecting the world class level that Australian and New Zealand wines have achieved. If that is not enough wehave combined our Winestate Wine of the Year Awards into this issue also. This is effectively a Trophy judgingwhere we re-judge the best, to come up with the top five wines in 14 categories, from these we pick our topaward for Australia and New Zealand. This year our Australasian Wine of the Year went to a Kiwi beauty from Villa Maria who excelled with othervarieties also and takes the title for most successful winery overall this year. Villa Maria has definitely been themost successful exhibitor across the years and fully deserves this honour. For a full roundup of winners go topage 49 for a 69 page special feature on the awards results. The Australian wine of the year went to a sweetwhite from Rylstone, a region not many have heard of but no doubt will in the future. This was a complete shockto everyone but it was a well-deserved winner emulating some of the great Sauternes wines of France. Overall our 40th Anniversary year has been an amazing one with our focus being on wine education and thewine trade. Another fabulous venture for the year was the first ever Global Gruner Gala. This was a judging conspiredwith our friends from Advantage Austria where our aim was to put together a judging of a variety you are goingto hear a lot about in future years. Some consider it to be “the next big thing.” We wanted this to be a worldcompetition and did manage to get samples from New Zealand and South Africa and of course Australia, withdomination from its homeland, Austria. Unfortunately shipping costs were an issue for the US and Eastern Europeans. However for our first effort itwas a great start with around 140 wines judged. Most were Austrian wines, but it was amazing to see that in the final Top Ten wines, judged blind,there were two Australian winners, both from the Adelaide Hills. This is a region that has adopted the variety as its own. Watch this space. We were also pleased to welcome Peter Schleimer, Editor in Chief of Austria’s premier wine magazine, Vinaria, as a guest judge and Masterclassspeaker to the Trade at the National Wine Centre. For a full run down of the judging and Masterclass comments check out Dan Traucki’s great overviewof the three days involved. Next year the plan is to take the event to Vienna where we won’t have the distance and transport issues involved and canpresent evidence of what we have achieved this year to worldwide producers. Very exciting! A very big thanks to all those who contributed to our magazine in the past twelve months. I start off with congratulating our managing editor, LaraSimic, an amazing lady, who has just been awarded the Australian Women in Wine, Champion of Change Award. It is a little known fact but Winestatemagazine has more female wine contributors than any other wine or food magazine in Australia or New Zealand. It is not because they are femalethat we include them, it is because they are good. Lara has been instrumental in making this change. To read more about the other amazing womenwho were recognised in the awards see the news briefs section. Our thanks also to the numerous winemakers, Masters of Wine, wine scientists and expert trade judges who regularly appear on our panel judgings.We use a lot because we are forever judging wines, from all regions and all styles, somewhere around 10,000 samples each year. We like to use peerpanels to judge their peers and this is somewhat similar to regional or capital city wine shows. We welcome back Michael Cooper, New Zealand’s most credible and respected wine writer, who along with Winestate New Zealand manager KayMorganty look after all our reviews from that “side of the ditch” as they say. Looking at this year’s results they have clearly done a great job in roundingup the troops. Our sponsors are greatly appreciated as they give us the opportunity to do our job at the highest level. Please check out and note their logos below. Finally more thanks to the trade who support us and consumers who read this magazine and are wine influencers within their group. Whoever you are please continue to enjoy our magazine and very best wishes for 2019. May your best wine be the next one.Cheers!Peter Simic Your wine,Editor/Publisher our ports.Major Sponsors and Supporters Australia Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsTARRANGO BACK IN THE MIX JUDGING THE JUDGESONCE the biggest selling red wine by volume in the United Kingdom, Brown WITH so many premiumBrothers Tarrango is now lurking in the doldrums.The first Australian-born Australian wines undergrape developed by the CSIRO is no longer sold domestically by the screwcap, is there a winecompany that commercialised it, Brown Brothers, but that’s about to change. judge bias against winesThis summer tarrango will be re-introduced to the Australian wine market as under cork?a rosé. “I’m very passionate about making sure that it keeps going,” saysBrown Brothers winemaker Katherine Brown. “We were looking at trends and It’s a question Yalumbawhere this variety might work. Demand isn’t high for it at the moment but red winemaker Kevindemand is for rosé.” The 2018 Tarrango Rosé will make its debut this summer, Glastonbury has beenand is made in a Beaujolais-style with 15 per cent carbonic maceration concerned about, enoughto highlight the grape’s natural, bright cherry fruit characters. A cross of to launch his own smalltouriga and sultana, the grape was developed specifically for Australian study into how wine judgesconditions by the late Dr Alan Antcliff at the CSIRO in 1972. Tarrango is one at Australian wine showsof three CSIRO-developed grapes, including cienna and mystique, that view red wines underBrown Brothers has developed, and for Katherine Brown it is important that screwcap as opposedthey continue to thrive. “We have these new and interesting varieties but we to cork in a judging line-have to make sure the longevity is there,” she adds. “We are growing them up. With every Yalumbabecause they are potentially going to help us through climate change. These premium red wine sealedindigenous grape varieties ripen later without the need for more water to get under cork, his interest isthrough droughts and can deal with salinity.” not merely academic. “You go along in a line-up and you know that there is something different about a wine,” he says. “It’s not corked but there is a difference about it,” he says. “We’ve actually gone through with a Coravin (wine preservation system) to a couple of wine shows this year and checked every bottle of the top end. “Wines under cork don’t have the freshness of some of the younger wines under screwcap.” He is concerned that young, juicy red wines often make it through to the final award and trophy judging ahead of wines under cork. “I reckon we spend $60-$70,000 a year to enter shows.” It’s a cost he believes his company may need to re-assess in the future. GAMAY TAKES A LEAD ROLE PROMINENT West Australian wine producer Howard Park is embracing a clutch of new grape varieties and some choices are sure to surprise. “We’ve planted pinot gris, gewurztraminer and grafted sauvignon blanc over to gamay,” says Jeff Burch, co-owner and CEO. Gamay? Yes, indeed, at Mt Barker in the Great Southern. “No one else is planting gamay (there). Only me. I pick up around the world that gamay is going to be hot.” Burch’s logic is well-founded. As premium red burgundy and general pinot noir prices sky-rocket, many consumers have moved on to gamay, the other red grape of Burgundy. “When people can’t afford pinot, what do they drink?” Burch asks. “They still want a soft approachable, soft-tannin red and maybe gamay can fit that spot. We’re not talking about a beaujolais nouveau, we’re talking about a gamay with some oak, like a serious drink. I think it’s got opportunities.” Howard Park’s first vintage is two years away but Australian drinkers will see a gamay under Burch’s wine label Marchand & Burch. Indeed, through his partnership with Burgundian winemaker Pascal Marchand he already has a Burgundy-grown gamay on the market. “We only have 70 cases this year for Australia but next year we are doing 400 cases. It will help me understand gamay a little bit more before ours comes on stream.”12 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

briefs This year also sees the launch of the new Howard Park “icon” wine, theA.S.W (“Alex Stephen Wee”). The wine pays homage to the family of co-ownerAmy Burch who settled in Australia from Singapore in the 1960s. Sourcedfrom Margaret River fruit, the 2016 release is a blend of cabernet sauvignonand shiraz featuring, in a major departure for the maker, “significant” use ofAmerican oak.MAKING THE MOST OF REGIONAL DOMINANCE THE Adelaide Hills is fast becoming the go-to wine region for super-premium quality wine grapes, something long-time Hills winemaker Nepenthe is capitalising on with the launch of its new Apex range. But what grape varieties made the cut? The Hills has three potential candidates. “I was always sure in my head that chardonnay would be the white wine release,” said Nepenthe Wines chief winemaker James Evers at the Apex launch in Sydney. The wine chosen was the 2016 chardonnay off the Rathmine Vineyard. “It’s also the wine I drink the most of.” However, there was debate about whether to choose regional front runner pinot noir, or emerging dark horse shiraz for the red release. In the end, the wine decided the question. “We have been playing around with sites and at the end of the day this wine came out, and it was, ‘wow!’ This wine just really popped out.” The wine was 2016 shiraz from the company’s Charleston Vineyard. “It was time to take a punt and it worked,” added Evers. “The wine has power but it always maintains elegance at the same time.” Both Apex wines retail for $80. wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 13 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E

briefs CELEBRATING A FAMILY ‘claret style’ with medium body, fine-grained tannins and a great balance of AFFAIR fruit and structure.” Just 200 dozen of the limited-release 2016 William Wilson Coonawarra Shiraz Cabernet have been made. The wine is available by direct ONE of the unsung heroes of mail order or by visiting the Redman and Balnaves cellar doors. Australian wine has been recognised after two of Coonawarra’s most PORT’S A LEGEND famous families - the Balnaves and Redmans - released their new joint JENI Port, one of the nation’s most venture: the 2016 William Wilson respected wine connoisseurs Coonawarra Shiraz Cabernet. and communicators, has been The limited-edition, $300-a-bottle named as the 2018 Wine “traditional claret” is the most Communicators Australia expensive wine ever released Legend of the Vine in Victoria. from Coonawarra.The wine marks The title was awarded in a coming together of two families recognition of her outstanding linked by generations of history. expertise and valuable Kirsty Balnaves, of Balnaves, and contribution to the Australian Dan Redman, of Redmans, share the wine industry. “Throughout same great-great-great grandfather her journalistic career, Jeni in regional pioneer William Wilson. has demonstrated undeniable Balnaves said the collaborative passion and commitment project was a tribute to the humble to the Australian wine story Scottish gardener who not only sired and has communicated her both families but is also credited exceptional knowledge to the with the discovery of the region’s wine loving public with flair and terra rossa soils. “William Wilson professionalism.” said WCA national chair Angus Barnes. Port is a regularwas a Scottish gardener who settled in Petticoat Lane, Penola, in 1861,” she contributor to Winestate and other wine media in Australia. “I am honouredsaid. “He was an expert in vine and fruit tree horticulture, and was the first to be presented with this award from the WCA, whose contribution to theperson to recognise the free-draining properties of the red terra rossa soil. He Australian wine story I hold in such high esteem. It is truly exciting to now beadvised fellow settler John Riddoch to establish his Penola Fruit Colony on what a member of the Legends of the Vine legacy,” she said. Port is the fifth personwe now know as the terra rossa cigar, laying the foundation for Coonawarra’s to achieve legend status in Victoria and she joins fellow wine colleagues andreputation for world-class cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Although he is not professionals Viv Thomson (2017), Kathleen Quealy (2016), Ross Brown (2015)widely remembered, he really was the region’s founding father.” and Colin Campbell (2014). Wilson was born in Scotland, served in the Scottish Highlanders in Irelandand Greece, and emigrated to South Australia in 1849 at the age of 33. It was ONE-STOP TASTING SHOPduring his posting on the Greek Islands of Zephalonia, Zante and Corfu that helearnt about viticulture and the role that soil type played in vine health and vigour. THE home of Black Brewing in Wilyabrup, Margaret River, has a new name inWilson’s daughter Margaret married William Neilson and of their six children, one Caves Road Collective and is now a one-stop tasting shop.married a Redman and the other a Balnaves, starting a 120-year-old wine-makingdynasty. “Coonawarra has a long history of sharing knowledge and collaborating, The facility is home to Black Brewing Co, Dune Distilling and Ground to Cloudthat started with William Wilson and John Riddoch,” great-great-great-grandson Wines, and aims to quench thirst, hunger and the search for an authenticDan Redman said. “My great grandfather Bill Redman sold his first grapes to the Margaret River experience. While Black Brewing Co beer will continue to beRiddoch winery and when it closed he kept the Coonawarra wine industry alive brewed on site by the same team under the same brand name, the change ofby selling bulk cabernet and shiraz to other Australian wineries. In fact it was the overall site name to Caves Road Collective represents the broader appealBill and his son Owen who helped Doug and Annette start Balnaves in 1974. of the destination. West Australian owners Stewart Sampson, Kristin Kestell,This wine is a symbol of that sense of community that defines us.” Rob Johnston and James Paterson took over what was Duckstein Brewery in The two families conceived the tribute wine in 2016, the 200th anniversary of late 2015 and have steadily grown the product offering. “We’re a passionateWilliam Wilson’s birth. The Redmans set aside a small parcel from their 85-year- bunch of locals, driven to deliver uncompromising quality, and believe the newold North End shiraz vineyard and the Balnaves reciprocated with a parcel of venue brand better reflects this,” said managing director Sampson. “Sincecabernet from their 43-year-old Paulownia vineyard. “Fortunately 2016 was a taking over the amazing location on Caves Road we’ve steadily improved thegreat year in Coonawarra,” Redman said. “Veraison was very even contributing venue and product offering with the intention of creating incredible memories.”to small berry size, and the mild conditions and cool finish allowed slow, even Visitors can drop in for a beer or wine tasting, a lunch by the fire or on theripening. The 2016 William Wilson Shiraz Cabernet is very much in the traditional deck in summer, enjoy late-afternoon bar snacks, a sampling of gin from Dune Distilling, a few Black Brewing Co beers with mates in the beer garden, a14 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

briefsgame of pool or a four-pack takeaway. The Caves Road Collective experience BOAG’S BESTnow includes: Caves Road Collective restaurant - the restaurant is headedby chef Hayden Vink and features local seasonal ingredients. Black Brewing TASMANIAN brewery James Boag has unveiled its first new beer for over aCo - Brewers Shannon Grigg and Adam Brookes have a range that includes decade - a crisp, refreshing lager called Wild Rivers, perfect for enjoyinglager, IPA, Bao Milk Stout and Fresh Ale. Dune Distilling - The first offering in the brewery’s new beer garden over summer.is a gin. More to follow with two new stills on the way from the Netherlands. The Boag’s team describes the new brew as “a modern take on an Ground to Cloud Wines - A range of wines, including chardonnay, semillon Australian premium lager” and it was developed by the team at the Jamessauvignon blanc blend, cabernet sauvignon/merlot, syrah, and rosé. Visit Boag Brewery in Launceston. “We’re proud of what we feel is a beautifullycavesroadcollective.com.au. balanced yet subtly complex lager,” said head brewer Nathan Groves. “We feel it reflects all that is unique about Tasmania, with its fresh aroma reminiscent of our crisp air and beautiful bushlands. As a brewer, this was an extraordinary challenge and fantastic one-time opportunity to come up with something new. It was important for us to respect the brand’s rich history and keep its integrity intact, while creating something new that everyone could enjoy.” Lion Beer managing director James Brindley said James Boag’s Wild Rivers was a significant new release and a tribute to the company’s belief in the Tasmanian brand. The lager will only be brewed in Launceston. “We believe Wild Rivers it is going to strike a real chord with those who want something modern, refreshing and crisp to drink,” Brindley said. James Boag’s Wild Rivers is available at Dan Murphy’s and BWS, as well as a range of independent stores nationwide.1840 WAS A GOOD YEARLEADING West Australian winery Sandalford pays tribute to its Swan Valley rootswith its new 1840 range. The range has been launched to showcase the quality of fruit from some of theold vines at the Caversham Estate and is named for the year Sandalford’s founder,John Septimus Roe, established the multi-awarded winery. While Sandalford isstill based in the Swan Valley it sources most of its fruit from Margaret River andother cooler, premium regions of Western Australia. “Roe established our estatehere in the Swan Valley after Queen Victoria bestowed him with the second landtitle in Western Australia as a reward for his work as the state’s inaugural surveyorgeneral,” explains Sandalford CEO Grant Brinklow. “We are paying homage tothis occasion and at the same time looking to the future of the Swan Valley in thisnew range of wines. To reflect such a unique history, the 1840 label design wasinspired by the original sketch map of the Swan River Settlement made by Roein 1829.” Sandalford senior winemaker Hope Metcalf said the single fruit sourcefor the new range wines was the Caversham vineyard. “The initial release of thiswine from the 2016 vintage was made in small batches, resulting in a very limitedamount of individually numbered bottles produced,” Metcalf said. The wines, a2016 shiraz and 2016 cabernet merlot, retail at Sandalford’s Swan Valley cellardoor for $33 and are vegan and vegetarian friendly. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsTHE WINNERS OF THE 2018 AUSTRALIAN WOMEN IN by a convivial three course lunch withWINE AWARDS wines supplied by Henschke, Bremerton, Calabria Family Wines, Soumah and theTHE WINNERS of the 2018 Australian Women in Wine Awards were Yarra Valley Wine Women (made up ofannounced on Friday 16 November 2018 - at the largest ever gathering of Goodman Wines, Sutherland Estate,Australian women in wine – in Sydney. Helen & Joey, Yarra Yering, TarraWarra, Bird on a Wire, Yerinberg & Wantirna The Australian Women in Wine Awards – which are owned and operated Estate) and Champagne from Ayala.by The Fabulous Ladies’ Wine Society - work to celebrate and reward thework of women in the Australian wine community, and community leaders The awards ceremony was streamedwho champion equality and fairness for all sexes in the workplace. The live via the Australian Women in WineAWIWA, set up in 2015, are the world’s only awards program for women Facebook page to viewers acrossin wine. Previous winners include Prue Henschke (Viticulturist of the Year, Australia and around the world. Key2016), Virginia Willcock, Vasse Felix (Winemaker of the Year, 2017) and Iain figures from the wine industry, includingRiggs, Brokenwood (Workplace Champion of Change, 2016). Jancis Robinson and Joe Fattorini, even participated in the day from abroad by This year's recipients were as follows: - sending in video messages of greeting• Winemaker of the Year – sponsored by Tonnellerie Saint Martin and support. Kate Goodman, Goodman Wines / Penley Estate From Sydney… to NEW YORK!• Viticulturist of the Year – sponsored by Wine Australia The AWIWA also announced that, in partnership with Wine Australia, the 2019 Awards will be held in New York on Tuesday 17th September as part Nicole Pitman, Kingston Estate of Aussie Wine Month,• Owner / Operator of the Year – sponsored by WineWorks Australia which is set to be the largest Australian wine Sarah Marquis, Mollydooker Wines promotion ever held in• Workplace Champion of Change - sponsored by Winemakers’ the USA. For more information see www. Federation of Australia womeninwineawards. Lara Simic, Winestate Publishing com.au.• Cellar Door Person of the Year – sponsored by Platinum Bags Janine Carter, Voyager Estate LOST BOUY FINDS A NEW HOME• Researcher / Innovator of the Year – sponsored by Angove Family Winemakers ADELAIDE-based Savitas, which makes wines from the Barossa Valley, Dr. Jacqui McRae, Australian Wine Research Institute has purchased McLaren Vale’s Lost Buoy Wines. The Lost Buoy brand was• Marketer of the Year – sponsored by denomination established in 2012 and produces over 5000 dozen cases per year. Lynda Schenk – Purple Giraffe• Woman of Inspiration – sponsored by Irvine Wines It is currently distributed across Australia and internationally to Hong Kong, Tamara Grischy, Langtons Singapore, Canada and the UK. The awards ceremony this year took place as part of the first ever Australian Savitas has a focus on sellingWomen in Wine Symposium and Awards Day, which was held on Sydney into the Chinese market. “I amHarbour at Quay with over 100 attendees. The morning session preceding the very proud of what we haveawards, comprised of guest speakers and networking opportunities, followed achieved with Lost Buoy since we launched and it is now time to hand the wheel over to the crew that will guide it on its next adventure,” said Lost Buoy founder Grant Kelley. Savitas Wines is run by CEO Chris Insanally, with former Wolf Blass winemaker Matt O’Leary the winemaker. The Lost Buoy vineyards, which lie on top of the rugged limestone cliffs of Port Willunga, will continue to supply shiraz and grenache varietals to the Lost Buoy brand.16 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

briefs111 WINES BY THE GLASS BROWN BOTHERS SAYS ‘BYE’FOR well over a decade Fix Wine Bar and Restaurant has been a popular FAREWELL to Brown Brothers as a trading name. Brown Brothers ismeeting place for wine industry folk in Sydney. Owner Stuart Knox, a former no more and the overall business is now known as Brown Family Winesommelier, has made a special effort to woo winemakers and wine sellers as Group. “The importance of creating an environment where each of our fivewell as wine lovers, offering a hugely impressive range of styles and prices. incredible brands can equally thrive has never been more appropriate,”Knox says his new wine list features no fewer than 111 different offerings by says executive director Ross Brown, of the new name for the 130-year-oldthe glass from around the globe. “I’ve gone a bit stupid and made my life family business. The family has evolved from a single brand to a family ofharder,” he joked. The wines are all preserved using the Coravin system. brands that now includes Brown Brothers, Devil’s Corner, Tamar Ridge,“Actually, I’ve been using Coravin for quite a while now and really see them Pirie and Innocent Bystander. The family says that the time is right toas a huge plus for my business,” he says. “Once the fear of wastage is support each individual brand under a company umbrella that clearlyremoved then we can offer people the chance to try just about anything. links to family heritage and philosophy. “In choosing the name it wasFlexibility is always part of what keeps this place ticking and now anyone imperative that family was at the heart of it so that people could see wecan come in and try random wines from random places, or the classics. As a remain a fiercely independent family wine company that is positioningwine bar we get a lot of solo drinker/diners in so now they don’t have to feel itself for generations to come,” Brown says. Many of the Brown familyleft out either.” Don't expect a list of trophy wines, or famous names. Look, members are involved in the business, with Eliza Brown and Cynthiainstead, for an unusual grape variety or a new boutique producer. Fix Wine Brown board directors, Katherine Brown a winemaker and Caroline BrownBar and Restaurant, 111 Elizabeth St, Sydney or visit www.fixwine.com.au. public relations and corporate communications manager. While the trading name will change, the Brown Brothers wine label remains intact. DeanA LITTLE HOLE IN THE WALL Carroll, Brown Family Wine Group CEO said: “It’s such an exciting time within the company and this change signifies our deep respect for whatLAUNCESTON, Tasmania’s second city and the gateway to the Tamar Valley, the family and company have achieved to date. It also sets the directionhas a new wine bar. Tucked away off Brisbane St is Bar Two offering a range for our aspirations for a sustainable future as a family wine company thatof Tasmanian wines, gins and produce. The name means Tasmanian Wines authentically builds brands and leads categories.”Only. Bar Two is owned by Nathan Cairns, whose family runs the TasmanianOrganic Wine company in the Liffey Valley. Cairns had long dreamed of a STEHBEN’S LAST ODYSSEY“little hole in the wall bar”. “I thought it was just a good time to open a little holein the wall, friendly, fun, neighbourhood kind of bar that just happens to have THERE are couple of reasons that make the new-releasea good selection of Tassie wine,” he said. “I come from a bar background Katnook Estate 2013 Odyssey special. The first is that thisand I’ve always wanted to do a bar. Wine should just be about fun, good is the 20th vintage release of the Coonawarra flagship, thefood, family and friends just hanging and drinking without feeling intimidated second that it was the last Odyssey made to completion byor being bored.” Cairns said he spent a “long, founding winemaker Wayne Stehbens, who sadly died lastlong” time visiting small vineyards across the year. The multiple-award-winning cabernet sauvignon isstate to stock the bar. “Every wine has a story,” made only in outstanding vintages from specific rows ofhe said. Think local wines like Wellington and terra rossa soil. The 1991 Odyssey was the inauguralWolfe, Sharmans, Freycinet and Chartley vintage, released in 1996 to commemorate theEstate, local cheeses, bar snacks and cool jazz. centenary of the first vintage made at Katnook’sBar Two is on the ground floor of 47A Brisbane woolshed in 1896. The name Odyssey reflectedSt, Launceston, under Cinco Passiones, a bar the ongoing journey of Katnook with its roots inwhich offers single malt Tasmanian whiskeys the past and sights on the future. The aim was toand handmade cocktails. make a timeless Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon, one that would stand alongside the world’s best. The 2013, from a warm vintage, is a wine that offers intense fruit married to powerful French and American oak. It is all about richness and concentration and, ideally, it needs several years in the cellar. Stehbens made Katnook’s first vintage and headed the winemaking team until his sudden death, making him one of Australia’s longest- serving winemakers. He was just 63 but had been Katnook winemaker for 37 years. The $110 price tag underlines that this wine is something special - one of just 53 wines listed in the “Outstanding” category of the Langton's Classification of Australian Wine. Visit www.katnookestate.com.au. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsFOOD FAIR BY THE SEA SHIPBOARD ROMANCETHE Curated Plate, a new four-day food festival is set to make its debut on AQUA Expeditions has announced new Honeymoon and Anniversary cruisethe Sunshine Coast on August 8-11, 2019. Aimed to be a celebration of the experiences for travelling gourmets, offering couples a special river safarirelationship between the chef and producer, the festival will bring together experience for the same price as a regular departure on the boutique operator’sthe region’s finest produce with leading Australian and international chefs. Aqua Mekong and Aria Amazon sailing schedules. Throughout their journey,Local experiences - from food trails to farm tours - will feature in the program. couples and newlyweds will get ever closer to some of the world’s most remoteChef Zaiyu Hasegawa from the two Michelin-star restaurant, Den, in Tokyo, and beautiful locations, with each vessel featuring beautiful suite accommodationwill join the festival in a collaboration with Sunshine Coast chef Daniel with floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows as well as luxurious lounge and spaJarrett, of The Tamarind. Den was this year named the Best Restaurant in facilities for relaxation. On checking into their suites, couples will be greeted withJapan and 17th in the world. Rising star Hasegawa is known for “Japanese a heart-shaped chocolate cake or chocolate truffles, hand-written note and acuisine with quality and creativity”. The full festival program of events and bottle of champagne ready to be popped. The bed will be romantically sprinkledtalent line-up will be revealed in March. “The Sunshine Coast has long with flower petals and topped with a folded towel. Onboard highlights include abeen a home to some of Australia's greatest produce and some amazing gym, artisanal boutique, massage rooms, indoor bar, lounge area and outdoorrestaurants,” Sunshine Coast Mayor Mark Jamieson said. “This new event jacuzzi, while Aqua Mekong also features a library/games room, outdoor bar andwill be a fantastic way to showcase our region and profile our local award- screening room. Exclusive 1:1 crew-to-guest ratio ensures unrivalled levels ofwinning food producers and restaurateurs. We look forward to welcoming comfort and quality of service. Active twice-daily excursions in groups of no moreguests to our beautiful part of the world and invite them to discover what than eight by private speedboat are led by expert local guides who know thesemakes us such a great destination for fantastic food.” Simon Latchford, CEO two regions like the backs of their hands. Feel the dense jungle underfoot, bike to local markets and temples, hop in the vessel’s kayaks or jump in to discover of Visit Sunshine Coast, said: unspoiled waters and rare indigenous wildlife close-up. For couples wishing to “The Sunshine Coast is one of immerse themselves in local culture, activities include visits to markets, key nature Australia's premier regions for spots and remote floating villages. World-class local cuisine on board is designed quality produce - it has more by renowned consulting chefs - David Thompson on Aqua Mekong and Pedro than 740 restaurants, 400 Miguel Schiaffino on Aria Amazon - both of whom are known as authorities on the food tourism experiences, unique cuisine of each region. After dinner couples can enjoy a beverage on the six dining precincts, 13 Observation Deck, as the night sky fills with constellations and shooting stars. craft breweries, some of the best farmers markets in the BREAKING GROUND country and provides much of Queensland’s fish, seafood, LEADING McLaren Vale winery Wirra Wirra has unveiled a hotel development fruit, vegetables and poultry partnership that breaks new ground for wineries in South Australia. Wirra Wirra will exports. While our beaches pair with developers Greaton on a project to build the first five-star accommodation and year-round attractive of its scale in the McLaren Vale wine region and the first integrated winery resort climate might be the primary of its type in South Australia. “Our wine regions are a tourism hotspot and Wirra reasons for visitors choosing Wirra is one of South Australia’s exceptional tourism assets - naturally we predict the Sunshine Coast for their interest in the hotel will be strong,” Tourism, Trade and Investment Minister David holiday, the fact that we can Ridgway said. “We’re certainly seeing that visitor numbers are increasing and our deliver such high-quality focus remains on continuing this growth attracting high-yield experience seekers. food from paddock to plate High-yield visitors expect premium accommodation options and McLaren Vale’s is becoming an increasingly first five-star hotel will help meet this demand.” significant attraction for discerning travellers. Wirra Wirra managing director Andrew Kay said the partnership would We invest in local events provide a massive boost to wine tourism in the region. “McLaren Vale has been because they deliver a strong crying out for five-star accommodation of this scale for years,” Kay said. “The economic return for the development will provide a base for visitors to not only enjoy the world class tourism industry”. Visit www. wine the region has to offer, but also the magnificent beaches, food and diverse thecuratedplate.com.au. nature experiences that can be found right across the greater Fleurieu Peninsula.18 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

A mutual understanding of the importance of integrating the development with and the celebrated freebies (free mini bar, breakfast, wifi, happy hourthe winery was at the cornerstone of the partnership,” said Kay. “We spoke to a and all-day snacks) will be introduced to complete the revolution. www.number of interested parties, but the team at Greaton understood our vision and thevalleybrisbane.com.au.the importance of capturing the spirit of history and authenticity that surroundsWirra Wirra. We’re all very eager to see the project take flight.” W Brisbane. W Brisbane is the first five-star hotel to open in Brisbane and it’s the only Australian city with a W Hotel. Located at 300 George St, the Wirra Wirra is an iconic McLaren Vale winery with a history dating back to W Brisbane boasts three bars and restaurants (including the renowned1894. It is the home of the famous red wine blend Church Block and exports Three Blue Ducks from The Farm at Byron Bay) in addition to 312 guestto 24 countries. rooms. The design of the hotel pays tribute to the local indigenous culture and the river culture that defines Brisbane. www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ Greaton entered the Australian market in 2011. The company is a bnewh-w-brisbane.leading diversified property business covering residential apartments andtownhouses, retail, serviced apartments and luxury hotels across Sydney Novotel South Bank, Brisbane. The Novotel South Bank is linked by aand Adelaide. The parcel of land to be developed is 1.56 hectares and sits walkway to the Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre. There is an on-adjacent to the Wirra Wirra winery on the western side. The hotel concept will site restaurant, outdoor pool and gym. Think Fairtrade bathroom amenitiesbe built around a theme of health and wellness, targeting the international and free barista coffee at breakfast. www.novotelbrisbanesouthbank.com.au.and domestic leisure market with an operator/manager to be announced. Ovolo Inchcolm Hotel, Spring Hill. The first Brisbane hotel for Hong Kong Designs are expected to be finalised in the new year, with construction work hospitality group Ovolo. Located in Spring Hill, the 1924-built Georgian hotelto start later in 2019 and an opening estimated for early in 2022. and former medical practice boasts 50 guest rooms, including a two-bedroom General Macarthur suite, named after the five-star US Army Chief of StaffBOOM TIME who was treated there while stationed in Brisbane during World War II. www. ovolohotels.com.au/ovoloinchcolm.QUEENSLAND’S biggest city is riding a new hotel boom with many newproperties opening in Brisbane during the first seven months of 2018 and The Sebel Brisbane, Margate Beach. A boutique hotel in Moreton Bay,several more in the pipeline. this is the ninth property to operate under the Sebel brand in Queensland. The $15-million-dollar hotel opened in May and features 58 rooms boasting a From riverside wharf residences to five-star digs and a 1920s bank-cum- minimalist decor, rooftop function space, pool and conference facilities. www.220-room hotel, each new property is adding to Brisbane’s vibe. thesebelbrisbanemargatebeach.com. Adina Apartment Hotel Brisbane. One of Brisbane CBD’s heritage buildings, FV by Peppers, Fortitude Valley. Located on the edge of Brisbane CBD,the 1922 sandstone-clad Queensland Government Savings Bank building, this luxury apartment building is the newest addition to Fortitude Valley’shas been transformed into the accommodation offering, with one and two-bedroom apartments. There are220-room Adina Apartment superb views and a heated u-shaped skyline pool with swim up pool bar onHotel featuring spacious level six, a moonlight cinema and a yoga retreat. www.peppers.com.au/fv.apartments complete with akitchen, laundry and living Other newcomers include Emporium 2, South Bank, The Calile, The Westinroom, and studio rooms with a Brisbane, Howard Smith Wharves & Fortitude Valley.kitchenette. There is an indoorpool, a fitness centre andChinese fine dining restaurant,Donna Chang. www.tfehotels.com/adina. Ovolo The Valley. Ovolohotel group is continuing itsBrisbane expansion with thetransformation of the formerEmporium Hotel FortitudeValley. It will be revamped asOvolo The Valley this year.New food and drink concepts Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 19

briefs invariably passionate about their trade and love sharing stories about the trials and tribulations of setting up a brewery and the sweat and tears that go into every brew, as well as sharing experimental and seasonal beers with visitors. Wine tourism is already well established in Australia, but craft beer tourism has just as much potential. “The craft brewers are now offering far more sophisticated hospitality options, with breweries like Brouhaha and Copperhead Restaurant & Brewery also offering dining to complement their range of beers.” Visit www.sunshinecoastcraftbeertours.com.au.CRAFTY BUSINESS RUBY SPARKLESCRAFT beer has brewed up a new market niche for Sunshine Coast’s tourism THE long-awaited Ruby Apartments at Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coastsector, with its emerging profile recognised officially when beachside Moffatt are set to welcome their first guests.Beach Brewing Co won the Champion Small Brewer of Australia award at theannual BrewCon - Australian Brewers Conference Awards - held in Sydney. The Ruby Apartments will be the first tower of the four-tower The Ruby Collection. A 50 per cent off pre-opening sale to celebrate the November Moffatt Beach Brewing also took home two gold medals, as did Maleny-based opening will see the first guests receive a range of bonus extras, includingBrouhaha. There were silvers for Macleod Brewing Co in Maleny, Sunshine complimentary continental buffet breakfast in Stones Bar & Grill for all guests,Brewery and Land & Sea in Noosa. unlimited access to the Waterpark, complimentary wifi and use of the cardio gym, sauna and steam room. All pre-opening packages are on sale for a Sunshine Coast Craft Beer Tours’ expert Josh Donohoe said that the limited time and available for travel to March 31, 2020, and can be bookedSunshine Coast craft brewing scene had expanded dramatically over the online at www.therubycollection.com.au.past three years. “The Sunshine Coast’s craft breweries can be found inpicturesque locations along the coast and in the Hinterland, and because QUIRKY BUSINESSthey are now considered among the best in Australia they have become anattraction in their own right with our scheduled tour numbers growing 150 TWISTED Gum Wines on the Granite Belt offer not only a boutique cellar doorper cent over the past 12 months, and our private tours tripling in numbers experience but also quirky vineyard accommodation. The cellar door offersover the same period,” he said. single vineyard wines from a hand-tended, dry-grown vineyard and is in a classic 1920s Queenslander with wrap-around verandas on three sides and “The growth in organised craft beer tours reflects the growth in craft views to the vineyards and hills beyond. The 3ha vineyard near the village ofbreweries operating in the region. When we began tours in 2016 there were Ballandean is at an altitude of 900m and is farmed sustainably. Twisted Gumjust three on-site breweries operating. Today, we have 12 who brew on site, Cottage, which also dates to the 1920s, is in the centre of the vineyard withand we now offer five different tour options covering the Hinterland and lovely outlooks, three bedrooms and a toasty fire for the chilly local winters.coast from south to north. There are two bathrooms, a fully appointed kitchen plus dining area and the cottage can comfortably accommodate six. Twisted Gum Wines, 2253 Eukey “What makes beer tourism so attractive for visitors is that it provides a really Rd, Ballandean. Visit www.twistedgum.com.au.rich and interesting insight into the character of the destination. Brewers are20 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

briefsLOLA LAUNCH GLAMPING IS BACKTHE former executive chef of Brisbane’s only three-hatted restaurant, TRUFFLE Lodge, the new Tasmanian glamping experience on the banks ofUrbane, has become a Sunshine Coast ambassador, showcasing the region the River Derwent, proved such a success that it will be back bigger andas one of Australia's leading and most vibrant food tourism destinations. better for the 2018-19 season.Argentine-born Alejandro Cancino left Brisbane earlier this year with hiswife and baby daughter for a sea-change on the Sunshine Coast where he “We are so excited after our sold-out first season and delighted that so manyis pioneering “plant based” cuisine under his own vegan food-label, Fenn guests indicated that they wanted to come back,” said co-owner LaurelleFoods. A vegan cafe/catering business called Lola’s Pantry will open shortly Grimley. The new season will feature more luxury ensuite tents, an open tentedat Kuluin near Maroochydore. He said he was delighted to join forces with pavilion, bush bath, river beach and daily activities programs, including yoga,regional tourism group, Visit Sunshine Coast. Lola’s Pantry, has a small cafe local storytellers, truffiere tour, bocce and dinners in the orchard. Food hasthat will seat 30 diners. The cafe serves breakfast and lunch, and there is also been taken to a new level with three-course dinners and a new list of localtalk of an adjoining restaurant further down the track. wine, including “just about impossible to find small vineyard wines”. Truffle Lodge, set next to a hazelnut orchard planted in 1998, is a luxury campingSAEFOOD IN ABUNDANCE resort set on 5ha of river frontage dotted with eucalyptus trees that provide much-needed habitats for the endangered swift parrot. It is promoted as “five-BICHENO, north of the Freycinet Peninsula on Tasmania’s East Coast, is a star luxury under canvas”. Truffle Lodge, 3411 Lyell Highway, Gretna; phonepicturesque seaside town famous for its sandy beaches, mild climate and 0417 996 305 or visit www.trufflelodge.com.penguins. For foodies, there’s a bounty of fresh seafood in this fishing town,from crayfish, abalone to salmon. The Farm Shed in the centre of town stocksa good range of East Coast wines. Cod Rock Point is one of the best placesto stay and is centrally located with an enviable position on the waterfront.There is a choice of three smart, self-contained apartments, The House (sleepsfour), The Nook (two) and The Lookout (two). The private Cod Rock gardenleads to a beach track where there are rock seats, perfect for experiencingthe flow and moods of the ocean and enjoying an evening glass of wine. Visitwww.codrockpoint.com.au. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 21

briefsCRUISING IN STYLE the components transported into the Freycinet National Park and custom-fitted to the landscape. Outdoor baths on the deck and separate lounge spaces,TASMANIA has a new tourism attraction - the RACT’s new Gordon River Cruises both taking in the view, enhance the guest experience. Each of the ninevessel Spirit of the Wild was officially welcomed into her home port of Strahan pavilions has its own unique character. Some sit overlooking the water, whileand has started cruising the Gordon River. The vessel was designed with the others nestle gently within the bush, with filtered coastal views. The worksGordon River specifically in mind. Spirit of the Wild is the first commercial of local artists, commissioned especially for the project and inspired by thepassenger vessel of its type in the southern hemisphere to be fitted with a nature of the peninsula, are featured on the walls of the bedroom and lounge.hybrid drive system, featuring both diesel engines and electric motors. Whenthe vessel enters the Gordon River the diesel engines are switched off, leaving The baths are embedded outside on the deck, overlooking the naturalonly the electric drive to propel the vessel forward. This means passengers will surrounds - the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring the localenjoy a cruising experience like nothing before, the RACT says. In addition to bushland, mountains and beaches. And the cleverly designed showers alsothe new vessel, the Gordon River Cruise experience has been enhanced with a take in the view, while maintaining guest privacy. Guests enjoy all the regularnew interpretation model, telling the stories of the history and early inhabitants Freycinet Lodge facilities - natural vistas, local wildlife, quality local foodof the area; and a new food and wine offering featuring Tasmanian produce. and wine and friendly, personal service. Taking it to the next level are addedVisit www.gordonrivercruises.com.au. gourmet goodies such as a bottle of Tasmanian wine and house-baked treats on arrival; a nightcap and chocolates waiting after dinner. For those looking for a night of romance there is a choice of three Tasmanian-themed dinner platters that can be delivered to pavilions. Prices start from $549 per night depending on the season. Visit www.freycinetlodge.com.au.PAVILIONS IN THE PARK BASE FOR EXPLORATIONTHE Freycinet Peninsula is one of Tasmania’s most spectacular regions - and BOSCOBEL was built in 1885 and now offers luxurious bed and breakfastnow visitors can enjoy a new luxury experience with the opening of the Coastal accommodation for visitors exploring the north-west coast of Tasmania. All fourPavilions at Freycinet Lodge. guest rooms have been renovated to a high standard with new ensuites. Three rooms have queen beds and the fourth has twin single beds. Guests are invited The nine pavilions provide an environmentally sensitive and architecturally- to enjoy the lounge area and relax in the conservatory. The impressive gardensinnovative accommodation option. feature historical oak trees and many fragrant, colourful plants. Breakfast is served in the formal dining room and features local and organic products. A Designed by a consultancy team led by well-known Tasmanian tourism kitchenette stocked with snacks and supplies for making hot drinks is availabledeveloper Brett Torossi, the retreats are dotted along the coastline of Great for guests. Boscobel is in the town of Ulverstone and the river, beaches andOyster Bay. The use of curved glass, Tasmanian timbers and tactile finishes cafes are all an easy walk away. Ulverstone is a central base for exploringadds to the immersive experience. Each pavilion was built mainly off-site, with Cradle Mountain, Leven Canyon, Table Cape and the Nut at Stanley. Cycling is also a good way to explore the beautiful countryside and coast, and Boscobel offers secure bicycle storage. Visit www.boscobeloftasmania.com.au. PUSH FOR GEOGRAPHIC INDICATORS WHEN you buy a wine from Victoria, it will almost certainly be labelled as being from the Yarra Valley, or Mornington Peninsula. If you choose a bottle from New South Wales, it will probably be labelled as from the Hunter Valley or Mudgee. Most Tasmanian wines, however, are still labelled as simply “Tasmania”. That is because there are no official geographic indicators (GIs) in the state and the entire island is regarded as one region. But that may soon change if some22 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

briefsleading winemakers have their way. Jim Chatto from pinot noir specialist ChattoWines in the Huon Valley has called for more wines labelled as “Tamar Valley”or “Coal River Valley” rather than just “Tasmania”. “We need to come of ageand accept that Tasmania is a whole lot more than one GI,” Chatto says. “Itis a really dynamic place but the regions are very different. Look at the HuonValley in the south of the state and Pipers River in the north; they are producingdifferent styles of wine. Those differences are part of the story of Tasmanianwine and should be celebrated. They enrich the whole story. Overall, I cansee exponential growth and improvement in quality as people choose not onlythe right vineyard site, but also the correct grape varieties and right clones.”FOSSICKING FOR FINE FAREA NEW premium Tasmanian gourmet touring experience combining the bestof Hobart and Bruny Island has been launched. Feast and Fossick offers twounique tours - the two-day Hobart Fossick, and two-day Bruny Fossick - eachcombining premium Tasmanian food and wine experiences with the chanceto explore Tasmania’s wilderness. Feast and Fossick Tasmania has beendeveloped by Bruny Island Adventure Bay Retreat owner and operator JanGlover. “Hobart and Bruny Island offer some of the best and most accessiblefood experiences, landscapes and adventures in Tasmania,” Glover said.“We wanted to share those amazing experiences with our guests - from alocal’s perspective.” The Hobart Fossick and Bruny Fossick are personallyguided, small group experiences for up to 12 guests. Each tour featurestwo days of delicious discoveries, including personally guided introductionsto the best local gourmet experiences in Hobart and on Bruny Island, andadventure experiences such as sea kayaking and wilderness cruising.Guests can choose to experience the Hobart Fossick and Bruny Fossickindividually or combine both tours for a four-day escape. Accommodationis at Macq 01 - Hobart’s new waterfront hotel which recently celebrated itsfirst birthday and the private Adventure Bay Retreat on Bruny Island. Visitwww.feastfossicktasmania.com.au. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 23

nzbriefswhat’s happening in the NZ wine sceneEMMA JENKINS MWUS DEMAND DRIVING GROWTH BOOSTER BUY-OUTTHE New Zealand Winegrowers 2018 annual report has been released, with HAWKE’S Bay’s Sileni Estates has been purchased by NZ financial servicesits usual array of fascinating facts and figures. There’s more good news in company Booster. The founding Avery family will remain involved in thethe form of wine exports, with US demand helping drive significant growth: day to day running of the business, which will now operate as Sileni Winesvalue has grown by more than $NZ700 million in the last decade, with volume Limited Partnership. “This is a bitter-sweet day, but we are pleased to havemore than doubling in the same timeframe. Export earnings in the year to reached a solution to the financial challenges we have been facing. WeJune 2018 grew to $NZ1.7 billion, though wary eyes are being kept on the have experienced severe headwinds in our Australian market in recentcurrent volatile international trade environment. NZ now has 2031 vineyards years,” Nigel Avery, CEO of Sileni Estates said. In the shakedown of theand 697 wineries (up from 643 in 2009), but growers have seen significant new company, a number of contract growers and winery staff were letconsolidation, dropping from 1073 to the current 699 in that period (the go, with Avery stating: “We are sad to be saying goodbye to a handful ofmajority of that contraction occurring post-GFC around 2011). Vineyard staff and, while we regret what has happened with the business, we arearea has expanded 2 per cent to 37,969ha, with further 1 per cent annual thankful that operations will largely carry on as normal.” Sileni (named forgrowth expected. Marlborough's 26,000ha under vines represents 68 per the companion and tutor of Greek wine god Dionysus) makes an extensivecent of the total, and perhaps unsurprisingly, 23,000ha throughout NZ is range of reds and whites from Hawke’s Bay fruit alongside Marlboroughplanted in sauvignon blanc (the vast majority in Marlborough), followed by sauvignon blanc, and exports to 80 countries.pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris. Just under 8000ha of NZ’s vineyardsare planted in red varieties, making the profiles of Kiwi pinot noir and syrah HISTORICAL LINK SEVERED(all 435ha) all the more impressive. NZ’s wine industry lost a link to its early history with the recent passingREWARDED FOR INDUSTRY SERVICE of Assid Khaleel Corban, aged 93. Corban’s grandfather and namesake, Assid Abraham Corban, established the Mt Lebanon Vineyards inTHE man behind one of NZ’s most iconic wine brands has received Henderson, West Auckland in 1902, which was the first commercialAustralia’s top honour. David Hohnen, who founded Marlborough’s Cloudy vineyard in NZ. Although AA Corban and Sons was sold in 1978, theBay and then Cape Mentelle in Margaret River, has been made a member Corban family established an enduring and influential involvement inof the Order of Australia for his services to the Australian wine industry NZ wine, its name continuing to resonate with modern-day consumers.and as a promoter of the Margaret River region. Hohnen was previously Assid Khaleel established an impressive career in local politics and washonoured for his work in NZ in 2006, being inducted into the New Zealand appointed an Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (OBE)Winemakers Hall of Fame. At that time he commented: “My involvement in 1988. His lifelong love of wine was evident in his passionate efforts towith Cloudy Bay gave me the profile and gravitas, for want of a better save vineyard land from encroaching urban development, while mayorword, to get out there and do something for Margaret River.” of Henderson. Corban died in possession of one of the oldest bottles of NZ wine - made 93 years ago to celebrate the birth of the first CorbanSPARKLING TO MARK A MILESTONE grandson. He is survived by his son, three daughters and their children. TOHU Wines, the first Maori-owned and operated wine label, WINE TOURISM THRIVING is celebrating its 20th anniversary and releasing a new sparkling wine to mark the milestone - the limited edition 2015 AFTER a smaller than usual 2017 harvest, producers were happy with Rewa Methode Traditionelle Rosé 2015, made solely from 6 per cent more in 2018 (419,000 tonnes), but most report needing to pinot noir. Tohu was formed in 1998 by Wakatu Incorporation manage stocks carefully to ensure supply continuity. The wine industry in partnership with two Maori organisations. Paul Morgan, now contributes some 20,000 jobs to the NZ economy and there is a Wakatu chairman says their vision was of “founding a wine thriving, increasingly high-end, wine tourism sector. Stats show that 27 company to have a platform to share our culture, story and per cent of all visitors head to a winery and tend to stay longer, visit a greater number of regions and spend 52 per cent more than those who values with the world”. All Tohu brands carry the spiral do not. It’s probably just as well export markets and visitors are lapping koru pattern (an unfurling fern frond) which symbolises up Kiwi wine, as domestic sales of NZ wine have dropped from 59 million growth, life and the natural world. “This koru signifies litres to 53 million litres in the past decade. Per capita consumption of local wine is now 11 litres per annum, down from 14 litres each annually our long-term intergenerational goals and has become in 2009 (overall wine consumption has decreased from 21.5 litres to 19 our tohu, our signature,” Morgan says. Part of Kono, litres in the same period). the wider food and drinks division of Wakatu, which makes cider and many seafood products drawn from across the Nelson and Marlborough regions, Tohu Wines has been growing its own grapes since 2002, and established its winery in 2012. Kono CEO Rachel Taulelei notes: “Through Tohu Wines we get to take kaupapa Maori to the world every day. We strive to work in ways that are kind to people and environment without compromising quality and integrity. We have a strong spiritual connection with the land and a responsibility to pass it on in good health to future generations.”24 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

THE REES HOTEL QUEENSTOWN’S ULTIMATEHELI WINE TASTING EXPERIENCEOne of the most successful wine experiences launched by The Rees Hotel THE ULTIMATE HELI WINE TASTINGQueenstown is the Ultimate Heli Wine Tasting Experience, hosted by the EXPERIENCE PACKAGE FOR TWO INCLUDES:General Manager, Mark Rose. Guests enjoy 180-degree panoramic viewsof Queenstown from a six-seater helicopter, a gourmet lunch and sample a · 2 night’s accommodation in an Executive Lake View One Bedroom Apartmentvariety of award-winning wines from local regions. This bucket-list experience · Cooked breakfasts dailyis for either two or four discerning people, includes accommodation at The · Complimentary late check out until 12noonRees Hotel and is a rare opportunity to literally heighten all the senses in a · Complimentary fruit bowl on arrivalspectacular series of locations. · Complimentary car parking and wifi · Inclusive of all car and heli transfersThe Heli Wine Tasting Experience includes a glass of champagne and a · Inclusive of lunch at Mt Difficulty Wineryluxury transfer from The Rees Hotel to Queenstown International Airport from · Inclusive of all selected wines/beverages at each Winery and the Cardrona Pubwhere a six seater helicopter from the Helicopter Line provides breathtakingviews of the renowned Gibbston Valley and Kawarau Gorge on the way to TERMS & CONDITIONS:your first tasting and lunch at Mt Difficulty Winery. Onward and upward to · Package designed for a minimum of 2 people and includes a Wine Directorspectacular views of Lake Wanaka and the world-renowned Rippon Vineyard · NZ$2,485 per personto taste some of the best organic wines from this award-winning winery before · BOOKINGS: [email protected] or +64 3 450 1100 and quote UQHW3a last stop (and drink) at the historic Cardrona Pub from where you return toQueenstown. Additional landings (at an extra cost) can include Mt. Edward THE ULTIMATE HELI WINE TASTINGWinery (Winemaker meeting and private wine tasting) and Isobel Glacier EXPERIENCE PACKAGE FOR FOUR INCLUDES:with champagne. Package offerings are for either 2 or 4 people and includetwo night’s luxurious accommodation at The Rees Hotel. · Accommodation in an Executive Lake View Two Bedroom (2 bathroom) Apartment · inclusions as aboveMr Rose, a passionate wine expert with extensive knowledge of wines both · NZ$1,285 per personlocally and globally, has successfully nurtured the strong wine and culinary · BOOKINGS: [email protected] or +64 3 450 1100 and quote UQHW4programme at the Hotel. The property is now well established as havingone of the best wine cellars in New Zealand and offers a prized collectionof Bordeaux and Central Otago wines and a wine list globally recognisedin the annual Wine Spectator Awards since 2012. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 25

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWCLIMBING THE APPELLATION LADDERSOMETIMES it can be tough to keep pace with what’s cent of Italian pinot grigio production, with more example, Languedoc - Pic St Loup AOC became Picgoing on in the European wine world. When we start than 1 million hectolitres, or 8-9 per cent of the entire St Loup AOC in 2017. Languedoc - La Clape AOClearning about European countries and regions, Aussie crush, from more than 23,300ha. To achieve became La Clape AOC in 2015. Before this Terrasseswe’re introduced to the various appellation systems in the upgrade, allowable yields have been decreased du Larzac in 2014 and Picpoul de Pinet in 2013. Iteach country, how they arose out of a post-phylloxera by 17 per cent (to 126hl/ha or 18 tonnes/ha), which gives producers more control over production rules,environment in which fraud was common, often wine means yields are still rather generous. Added to over region identity and “brand” communication, overfrom outside a region being brought in. Appellations which, pinot grigio from these three regions is no strategy and direction. Elevation to AOC is the terroir- delimited zones of production - were created to longer permitted to be bottled as IGT, so producers argument in focus. A certain unique identity has to beguarantee origin. What’s in the bottle comes from must work for the higher DOC label. justified in the application - this idea that no one canwhere it says on the label - Pauillac from the commune replicate your own exact patch of dirt with its uniqueof Pauillac in Bordeaux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape from This single DOC appellation accounts for about half climato-geomorphology and human influences.the area around the village of the same name in the world’s total pinot grigio production.the Rhone. It’s all too easy to imagine that this is a The most recent upgrade, Pic St Loup, is a 1000hareasonably static sort of picture dating from the 1930s, If you were ever unsure of the complexity of in the north end of the Languedoc, close to thewhen many of the key European regions began to be the Italian wine production panoply, this DOC is southern Rhone appellation, and in the foothills of theappellated. Yes, there have been a few changes, but the country’s 335th. Mind you, the French have Cevennes, with the peak of St Loup rising to 638mthe picture is reasonably constant, no? more - over 350 wine appellations - and this elevation. Like other red Languedoc wines it is based number is also growing. on varying proportion of syrah, grenache, mourvedre Well, not really. New appellations - in generic (mataro), (GSM), carignan and other local varieties.European Union (EU)-speak PDOs (protected While many Italian examples Here, near the Rhone, with a bit of altitudinal coolingdesignations of origin) - spring up with regularity. and a degree of continentality to the mesoclimate,There are new things to look out for on labels. EU of pinot grigio largely serve syrah has a dominant force in the blend, with GSMwine law is based on a usually four-level hierarchy together making up 90 per cent of the blend.of appellation, reputedly also quality-related, the purpose of innocuousfrom entry level “wine of country” (blended from La Clape, by comparison, is right on the coast notanywhere across the country), up to a full PDO, quaffing wine, there are far from Narbonne, and was an island as recently aswhich can be larger or smaller geographical areas, 600 years ago. Just 780ha have the appellation, redsfor example, Bordeaux AOC (Appellation d’Origine also producers in the north from GSM and those other local varieties, whitesControlee) and Pauillac AOC are both PDOs, but from the likes of bourboulenc, grenache blanc,Pauillac has tighter rules of production. east of Italy such as Vie di marsanne, picpoul, rolle/vermentino, roussanne, ugni blanc and viognier, vinified in both inert and A big recent fanfare has been around Italy’s creation Romans and Livio Felluga who oak-matured styles, especially when based on theof a DOC (Italy’s acronym for PDO. DOCG is one up appealing framework of bourboulenc.from DOC and is also a PDO) in 2017 for pinot grigio make excellent and seriousin the north east of the country - pinot grigio DOC della In time, all dozen and more areas “could” becomeVenezie. Della Venezie comprises the three regions expressions of this grape. AOCs in their own right, if producers want to workof Friuli Venezia Giulia, Trento (part of Trentino-Alto for it and as the individuality of locations becomesAdige) and Veneto. It covers a huge area from Adriatic The south of France has been relatively more clearly evident. Indeed, for the Languedoc,sea level to inland alpine altitude, and given its north- productive in the last few years, with a trickle of such hierarchical elevation is part of a long-termish location, climate is cooler rather than warmer new appellations. Not that these are new names, strategy for the region.(in the European colloquial definition). The idea is but they are an elevation in status. Languedoc AOCto raise the profile of pinot grigio and protect it with is generally viewed as an “entry level” appellation - This sort of ladder of appellation hierarchysome minimum quality standards. While many Italian the zone stretches from the Spanish border to the elevation is also an element of other French regions.examples of pinot grigio largely serve the purpose of Rhone hinterland in a Mediterranean arc. As well The Rhone valley’s Cotes du Rhone-Villages-plus-innocuous quaffing wine, there are also producers in as wines labelled solely Languedoc AOC, there are named-village AOC has witnessed the namedthe north east of Italy such as Vie di Romans and Livio more than a dozen small zones within Languedoc villages slowly becoming AOCs in their own right.Felluga who make excellent and serious expressions AOC which are allowed to append their name to Cairanne was the most recent of those, in 2016.of this grape - though these particular producers the AOC. In the case of recent upgrades, the move There are another 17 named villages in the Cotes dualready use tighter-rule DOCs for their pinot grigios. has been from Languedoc-plus-appended name to Rhone Villages AOC that could, potentially, achieve individual AOC in their own right. upgrade to their own AOC over time. This new “Delle Venezie” appellation, which iseffectively an upgrade from the more lowly IGT So far, a handful have worked for the upgrade, The proof of time is an important part of the equation.category (one below DOC), accounts for 85 per which is no easy task and can take many years. For Elevation up the appellation hierarchy can take many years, decades even, in France. Pic St Loup, for example, took 15 years, including revisions. 26 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

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winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYCONFESSIONS OF A RIESLING DRINKERFOR a long time in Australia we have been extolling at harvest and is measured in the oechsle scale. and intense showing ripe stone fruit with racythe virtues of dry rieslings both in Australian In this classification system, Kabinett label wines acidity. The word “sweet” was not mentionedwines as well as the dry German rieslings from once in my notes. It was matched superbly withproducer organisation Verband Deutscher are the lightest style with an acid balance that rotisserie pork belly with fennel pickle and thePradikatsweinguter Association (VDP) and gives them aromas of green apple. They have curiously named scud chilli death sauce. Thisespecially their Grosses Gewachs (GG) wines. In anywhere between 20 and 40g/litre of residual proved that some of these so called sweet stylesbottle shops and on most wine lists, the traditional sugar (RS). Next is Spatlese, a late harvest wine don’t match with dessert but do gloriously well atsweeter rieslings have been out of favour and are with more richness and body. These wines have other parts of the meal.sometimes regarded as cheap and inferior wines. around 40 to 60g/litre RS. Auslese labelled winesThis is a throwback to the last century when the are my favourite styles and can have some botrytis In tasting through brackets from Kabinett throughworld was awash with Liebfraumilch, Piesporter fruit which give hints of apricot and ripe stone to Auslese the supposedly sweeter styles endand Niersteiner labels that were often made from fruit aromas. Auslese are hand selected from fully up being dryer than the Kabinett because ofthe grape muller thurgau and not even riesling. ripe bunches and have between 60-120g/litre RS. the increase in acidity. What the extra ripeness The last three are clearly into the dessert style of achieves is more intensity, richness and power, We have been conditioned to drink dry and riesling. First there is Beerenauslese (shortened and who minds that. There is of course a priceinadvertently see it has an indication of quality to BA) - over-ripe grapes are individually picked difference between the categories and thein riesling. But when I give an off dry wine to a (as opposed to bunches) and usually botrytis Spatlese bracket came out on top with richnessstudent it is always well received. They look at me and concentration but at a lower price. While notfor assurances and I imagine them asking: “Is it Auslese labelled wines are as intense as the Auslesen wines they still werealright for me to like this?” It’s as though they are an excellent match with our steamed pork andin the church confessional and I have to give my my favourite styles and can prawn steamed dumplings. Aromas of these winesblessings on their minor transgressions and their floated between red apple skins, floral and stonesecret desire for sweetness. have some botrytis fruit which fruit. It’s the compound linalool that gives us the citrus and floral aromas in riesling. Linalool belongs Germany is the home of sweeter styles of riesling. give hints of apricot and ripe to a group of compounds called monoterpenes.The grape ripens very late and therefore needs These compounds are found in citrus fruits andwarm and sheltered sites that squeeze out the stone fruit aromas. flowers. Other less important monoterpenes foundwarmth going into late autumn and even winter. This in riesling are geraniol, which provides floral oris why the best wines in the Mosel are located on affected (known as edelfaule in German) are rich rose petal aroma and lactone which producespure south or south east or south western facing with apricot and dried fruit aromas (120-200g/l lime aromas. These primary aromas fade over timeslopes. The slate soils are beneficial in retaining RS). Eiswein indicates they are made from frozen and another controversial aroma compound calledthe heat as well as allowing good drainage. They berries (picked at -6C to -8C), no botrytis here 1,6,-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronapthalene (or TDN)also help in getting the growth started in spring as just purity of fruit and very rare and expensive become dominant. TDN has chemical aromas ofthese soils warm up quicker than, say, more dense (120-200g/l RS). Finally Trockenbeerenauslese kerosene. Age in these rieslings can also bringclay soils. The proximity of the river also provides (TBA) are made from individual berry selection out unusual aromas. We tasted a 2004 Berkastelerreflected sunlight on the vines that cling to the again, raisined and definitely botrytis affected Johannisbrunnchen Eiswein that was intenseslopes. It is a special but very marginal place to (200g/l+RS). with honey, marmalade and intensely sweet butgrow grapes. surprising had the flavour of blackcurrant and even The traditional labelling of German wines does a sour acidic note on the finish. The rise of the dry wines in Germany has seen not help the consumer to choose the right wine.production of the traditionally sweet wines drop One would expect all these styles to be sweet, but While the majority of Australian riesling are stillfrom 60 per cent of the market down to 30 per that is not the case. The perception of sweetness dry there is an increasing number being madecent in the past decade. The names of these wine is dramatically altered by the level of acidity. This with residual sugar. Winemaker John Hughes,styles do not help consumers when ordering. Most was demonstrated during an extensive tasting of for example, makes around 10 different styles ofsound foreboding; try ordering a J.J Prum Graacher the 2016 J.J Prum wines at Sydney’s Chin Chin riesling under his Rieslingfreak label and some ofHimmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel from the restaurant this year. The previously mentioned these (such as his No5 and No8) have residualMosel, for example. Under the German Pradikatswein Graacher Himmelreich Auslese wine was elegant sugar and are made in a German style. classification wines are classified by their must weight28 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

MEMBER EVENTSJANUARY 2019PERTH - 2019 Winestate Best of the West & Wine of the Year TastingThursday 24 January 2019 - 6pm – 8.30pmPerth Hyatt Regency Hotel, Perth, Western Australia(Tickets available now - Subscribers receive twocomplimentary tickets upon request)APRIL 2019Cabernet & Bordeaux NightNational Wine Centre, AdelaideTo be advised (6 - 8.30pm)Tickets available early 2019ITALY, Verona - Vinitaly 2019 - Veronafiere7-10 April, 2019Details at: www.vinitaly.com/enEmail: [email protected] 2019Worlds Greatest Shiraz Challenge XIVNational Wine Centre, AdelaideTo be advised (6 - 8.30pm)Tickets available early 2019SEPTEMBER 2019Winestate Wine of the Year 2019 Subscriber TastingNational Wine Centre, AdelaideTo be advised (6 - 8.30pm)Tickets available mid-2019NOVEMBER 2019HONG KONG - Winestate Wines of AustraliaHK Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, Hong Kong7-9 November 2019Details at: www.hktdc.comHONG KONG - Winestate CorporateTasting EventNovember 7-9 2019More details mid-2019Email: [email protected] US TODAY!By becoming a Winestate Memberyou will receive complimentarytickets to our events!

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING BE TEMPTED BY A TASTY TRIOAUSTRALIANS flock to New York and Los Angeles The Chicago area has the most breweries in the American food that shouldn’t be missed. Timin droves, but Chicago, the third largest metropolis US - 202 - ahead of Denver and Seattle. Old Style Graham, formerly of Travelle in The Langham Hotel,in the US, is no laggard in attracting tourists. In beer has been the default position for the city’s shows his finely honed skills in recreated classics2017, a record 55 million visitors hit the city famed brewski lovers for decades and signs touting its such as log with duck liver peanut butter mousse,for its world class architecture and museums and pleasures are everywhere. But Chicago is also a sloppy joe with roasted bone marrow and “pigs insecond-to-none bar and restaurant scene. It hardly major power in the world of craft beer. There are a blanquette”.needs pointing out that you can’t leave town without official Chicago Brewery Tours or go freelance.eating one of Chicago’s three food staples - pizza, You’ll find Forbidden Root in West Town, which As you would expect there’s a stellar beer listItalian beef and hot dogs. Yet a deep dive into the bills itself as the city’s first botanic brewery using at Funkenhausen on Chicago Ave in West Town.wealth of recent restaurant openings and new and all natural ingredients. In the tap room you can sip Chef Mark Steuer has his tongue in his cheek withold bars would keep you busy for weeks. on brews infused with barks, stems, blossoms, some of the names of the main dishes - oysters saps and herbs and spices, and then dine in the hockafella, surfenturfen and big-ass veal schnitzel - The best kick-off point for nostalgia buffs is the adjacent gastro-pub. The Goose Island Beer Co but there’s no hint of folksiness in the results. EasilyOld Town Ale House in the area of the same name. has built up a formidable reputation. Drop by the one of the best modern takes on German cuisineA stone’s throw from Second City, the renowned Fulton St premises with its sleek industrial chic I have ever tasted.comedy venue that launched the careers of such tasting room for a Goose IPA.talents as Bill Murray and Stephen Colbert, the At the recently opened St Jane Hotel, the Freeregular crowd is a mix of tourists, hipsters, young You can’t leave town without Rein restaurant is filled with non-guests at lunchprofessionals and old lags. It’s almost sacrilege and dinner. The fusion cuisine dishes in the smartnot to order a stiff bourbon or a beer as you gaze eating one of Chicago’s three all-day bistro taste as good as they sound - foie grasat the paintings on the walls. A line-up of nude with green curry and papaya through fried chickenportraits of US politicians created by the veteran food staples - pizza, Italian oysters and saffron spaghetti with crab, tomato andowner Bruce Elliott. sea urchin sauce. Fancy French? Head to Le Sud beef and hot dogs. in Roscoe Village, a split-level bistro serving French Logan Square is Chicago’s major party and and Mediterranean mains such as foie gras tartedining district. The Ladies Room, located in the In spite of the brewmaster’s name - Frank and stuffed rabbit at reasonable prices.Fat Rice restaurant, has one of the finest cocktail Lassandrello - there’s a firm German influenceprograms in the city. The bartenders combine at Motor Row Brewery, located in the former Like many major cities all over the world, Chicagotrendy ingredients such as avocado leaf tincture heartland of Chicago’s auto industry. Seasonal is experiencing a rash of new Asian restaurantsand salted coconut foam in eclectic combos to beers such as Belgian ales are a major lure at the which mix east and west flavours. Passerotto inpull in the crowds. Estereo is an all-day bar with venue’s Blues and Brews events held on Monday Andersonville combines Korean and Italian flavoursa south of the border theme and drinks list. Daily nights. Revolution Brewing in Logan Square has into an amazing blend of tastes such as kimchispecials include seasonal drinks based on pisco, a contemporary German beer hall and you can panjeon pancake with ramp pesto. The separatemezcal and tequila teamed with hand-harvested sign up for a brewery tour. If you’re pushed for wine bar has a seriously good line-up on offer orstrawberries and blueberries, grapefruit bitters and time, the Great Central Brewing Company in just pop in for a drink.ground cherry-infused singani - the national liquor Fulton Market offers a selection of craft beers inof Bolivia distilled from white muscat grapes. its 200-seat tap room. A top choice is the Free Back in Logan Square, BiXi Beer prides itself on Bird American Pale Ale. being Chicago’s only Asian-inspired brew pub. The Whistler has a community feel and features The rooftop terrace overlooking Milwaukee Ave islocal DJs and the works of local artists in the Chicago has a long, fine dining pedigree. Top crowded to the max during summer. But whateverwindows. The constantly changing cocktail list has chefs always gather where there is big money. the weather, come here to enjoy the expertly-madea distinct Latino flavour with delights, including One of the best newbies is Brass Heart, run by brews with beef bao, belt noodle soup and beerKey Largo - rum, pineapple liqueur, lime and black former Longman & Eagle alumni Matt Kerney. stew with lemongrass and Sichuan peppercorns.pepper. If you prefer really good food in a bar There’s creative tasting menus of 12 courses ormenu - baked oysters, duck rillettes - head for Billy more, highlighted by dishes like whole prawn with For all the modern dining excitement, few foodSunday where gun chef Matthias Merges helms umami butter and sourdough cone with avocado pleasures in Chicago are as memorable as Italianthe kitchen. A curated beer list, gleaming modern sorbet and corn creme. Twain in Logan Square is Beef - wafer-thin slices of roasted beef servedbar and schmick cocktail list are the drawcards named after Mark Twain and offers contemporary on a long Italian roll, topped with peppers andat the Spilt Milk Tavern. Another must-visit in liberally sprinkled with jus. Al’s Italian Beef hasLogan Square is Wondermint Malted, a carefully been dishing the goods since 1938 and, althoughchoreographed recreation of a Chicago dive bar it’s now a chain, the original venue is a pilgrimagewith wood panelling and checked tile floor. spot. Located in the Little Italy neighbourhood on Taylor St, there’s no reservations and it’s cash only - the old Chicago way. 30 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019



GRGÜNrERetahet! The Adelaide Hills area is considered to be the gruner capital of the southern hemisphere.32 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

DAN TRAUCKIWINESTATE in conjunction with the AustrianWine Marketing Board recently conducted theinaugural Global Gruner Challenge open togruner veltliner producers from around the world. Gruner veltliner is a native Austrian white grapevariety that is the “lead” superstar in Austria’sresurgence in the global wine industry. It accountsfor one-third of all vines planted in Austria. While many Australian wine drinkers may nothave heard of gruner veltliner, the Hills are alivewith the excitement of this Austrian superstar asit undergoes a meteoric rise in the Adelaide Hills. Since its humble Australian beginnings whenthe first vintage was released in 2009, grunerhas blossomed to become the fastest risingemerging variety in the country, with 44 wineriesproducing this exciting white variety - four inCanberra, three in Tumbarumba, New SouthWales (the uber cool region in the foothills ofthe Snowy Mountains), two in Victoria, three inTasmania, two in Queensland’s Granite Belt and30 in the Adelaide Hills. I know that it doesn’tsound that impressive but consider how long ittakes most other emerging varieties to amassthat many growers across the country, evenwithout being constrained to cooler climates theway that gruner veltliner is. Some varieties thathave been around for decades still don’t havethat many producers, while gruner has done itin less than a decade. In vinous terms that isapproaching the speed of light.Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 33

34 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

Gruner veltliner is a variety best suited to cool with around three-quarters of the Australian Hills) and Jan Taborsky (Topper’s Mountainclimate regions such as those of Austria and producers being represented. There were Wines, New England, NSW) were joined bythe Adelaide Hills. In the vineyard it ripens mid- inquiries from Canada and the US but the cost Peter Simic (Editor/Publisher Winestate) andseason, achieving a good level of physiological of sending samples meant that there were no the “grandfather” of gruner in Australia, Larryripeness. Without due care in the vineyard it can entries from either country. It will be interesting Jacobs (Hahndorf Hill Winery, Adelaide Hills).be a heavy cropper as it used to be in Austria in to see how the wines from other producing The Adelaide Hills area is considered to be thethe first half of last century. Depending on the countries fare next year when the Global Gruner gruner capital of the southern hemisphere, withclone involved, gruner produces bunches of Challenge is conducted in Vienna. It will be more gruner being grown there than in all thesmall to quite large yellow-green berries and is much easier and less costly for producers rest of the southern hemisphere.very susceptible to downy and powdery mildew from the other main producing countries suchas well as rust mites. While vineyard site and soil as Germany, Hungary, Slovakia and France to Schleimer started proceedings by discussingtype experimentation is on-going in Australia (as send their wines. Likewise, for the American the origins of gruner veltliner, which isn’t ait is still early days for the variety), the Austrians and Canadian producers, it will be considerably really ancient variety as it seems to have beenwith their lengthy experience believe that it cheaper for them to post their samples. around for only a few hundred years. He saidperforms best in soils with high loess content in the 1990s it was discovered that gruner isas well as in certain sites with loam or a mixture After the judging a tasting for the liquor a more recent cross between traminer (whichof both. Loess is predominantly the silt-sized trade was conducted at the National Wine is an ancient variety that has mutated oversediment accumulated from wind action. Centre in Adelaide. This was followed by a the centuries to produce different forms of master class where the judging panel (Peter traminer such as traminer weiser in Germany, In Austria gruner veltliner is divided into two Schleimer, Editor Vinaria Magazine, Austria), gerwurztraminer in Alsace, Heida in Switzerlandclassifications - Klassik and Reserve. Klassik Michael Sykes (Lodestone Wines, Adelaide and traminer aromatico in Italy. These werewines are made without any discernible woodinfluence and usually contain under 13 per centalcohol, cannot have any botrytis character, isnormally bottled and on sale within 12 monthsof being vinified. It is young, fresh and crisp. Reserve has to be at least 13 per cent alcohol, isusually matured for longer before being released,can have subtle oak influences (usually from usedor old neutral oak barrels) and some degree ofbotrytis character. Often these wines are maturedon lees to add to their complexity. In the GlobalGruner Challenge all the wines were judgedunder these two categories. For the last three years Winestate has beenconducting an annual judging of Austrian winesin Adelaide. This year as a result of gruner’sgrowing popularity, it was decided that inconjunction with the Austrian Wine MarketingBoard they would hold the world’s first GlobalGruner Challenge. The judging panel for thechallenge included one judge who flew out fromAustria for the event. The inaugural challenge received 145 entries.Ninety from Austria, five from New Zealand,one from South Africa and 49 from Australia, Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 35

Page 33: Peter Schleimer, (Editor Vinaria Magazine, Austria) judging at the Global Gruner Challenge. Gruner Veltliner wines from the Winestate Global Gruner Challenge. Page 34 top to bottom left to right: Michael Sykes (Lodestone Wines, Adelaide Hills) judging at the Global Gruner Challenge, Shane Harris (Wines by Geoff Hardy), the panel of judges at the Gruner Veltliner Masterclass at the National Wine Centre Adelaide, gruner veltliner wines. Page 35: The “grandfather” of gruner in Australia, Larry Jacobs (Hahndorf Hill Winery, Adelaide Hills). Page 36 top to bottom left to right: Peter Schleimer and Jan Taborsky judging wines. Jan Taborsky (Topper’s Mountain Wines, New England, NSW). Domäne Wachau Kellerschlössel, in Austria. Page 37: Domäne Wachau, in Austria.36 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

previously thought to be all different varieties get together regularly to discuss the variety, I am confident gruner veltliner will have anbut are now known to be mutated forms from their experiences, any challenges in growing outstanding future in the wine industry, not onlythe original ancient traminer) and an even more it and taste each other’s wines. They even do here, but also in a number of other countries thatancient, almost extinct variety sankt georgener- tastings of Austrian gruner to compare how have the right climate for this emerging varietalrebe, which had been identified from a single they are progressing against the wines from the superstar. surviving vine found near the town of Sankt variety’s original homeland.Georgen am Liethagebirge just outside ofEisenstadt. So gruner veltliner is a youngster Sykes said he thought Australian growers wereborn from ancient parents. “all singing from the same hymn sheet”. He said that until as recently as just after World Jacobs explained that gruner had beenWar II gruner veltliner was grown predominantly selected by the Adelaide Hills growers whenas a bulk volume quaffing wine (as most wines in they were looking for a unique “signature”Austria were). It was a rather spicy, non-fruit driven variety for the region, rather than relying entirelywine that was effectively vin ordinaire. Since on mainstream varieties. Gruner was selectedthen, and more particularly since the mid-1980s because the climactic conditions in the Hillsthe focus and practices have changed so that are very similar to those encountered in itstoday it is an elegant, sophisticated, fruit-driven native Austria -warm days with cool nights.wine that is very versatile and a great match for Jacobs suggested that the characters in grunera broad range of different foods, including spicy wines were “more varietally strong rather thanAsian dishes and vegetarian food. regionally strong” which was demonstrated in the consistency of the quality in the judging. Taborsky said he came from a part of theCzech Republic near the Austrian border and The first Global Gruner Challenge amplytherefore was familiar with gruner. “Australia demonstrated that wines made from this varietyis a great success story for gruner,” he said. are an appealing, class act with 87 out of the“It has not even been 10 years since the first 145 entries achieving three stars or greater andgruner wine was made and yet the results, as with four wines achieving a full five stars - threethis judging proves, are magnificent. This is from Austria and one Australian. Twenty-sevenpartly because the Adelaide Hill growers of the of the 49 Australian entries achieved the threevariety work together and collaborate. Gruner star or better status, which is 55 per cent of theveltliner has a great future here in Australia”. wines entered. This figure is outstanding whenTaborsky was referring to the Adelaide Hills you consider that the oldest Australian producerGruner Growers Group which is comprised of only has 10 vintages under their belt and thatalmost every gruner grower in the region. They there were some producers who were showing their first vintage. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 37

38 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

AS GOODAS IT GETS Virnetpao2g0er1t8CHARLES GENTIT’S official - it was a pearler. The 2017/18 growing look excellent, albeit at lower volumes.season was characterised by long spells of dry Parts of the Canberra District were battered by aweather across south-eastern Australia, which inturn gave rise to twin phenomena - lower yields and January hailstorm, but the season finished with adisease-free, high-quality fruit. While the overall warm, dry March that has led to top-notch shiraz,crush of 1.79 million tonnes was down by 10 per riesling and viognier, and enthusiastic predictionscent from the record set in 2017, the superlatives from winemakers.got a workout from winemakers in regions asdisparate as Queensland’s Granite Belt, Canberra, The growing season was much milder inMornington Peninsula and the Margaret River, with Hilltops, where generally low temperatures werethe 2018 vintage described time and time again as accompanied by well-timed rain. The quality of“a cracker” or, in one case, “epic”. the red wines is very promising. Tumbarumba’s experience was much warmer and drier, with some The heavy rains that sabotaged last year’s crop in welcome late rain. The chardonnay and pinot noirthe Granite Belt stayed away, and ripening conditions are the pick.were ideal and free of mildew. Winemakers haveflagged one of the region’s best ever vintages and The Riverina’s growing season ran smoothly in allquality is already evident in the whites. respects, with harvest coming a few weeks earlier than last year. Good quality in both reds and whites In the Hunter Valley, a dry winter and spring were was almost ubiquitous.succeeded by an even drier summer, with somegrapes ripening in the first half of January. Picking Reversing the wider trend, the Yarra Valley hadwas over quickly, but even though yields were plentiful spring rains and consequently experiencedreduced, the quality of fruit, especially the shiraz, good yields. Like the Mornington Peninsula,is being compared with the much vaunted 2014 ripening conditions were dry and virtually ideal;and 2017 vintages. the Mornington wineries are expecting truly great things from their 2018 chardonnay and pinot noir. Orange, too, had a dry winter and spring, with In Geelong, a cool start gave way to warmera cool-climate warm summer that saw top-notch temperatures, and again chardonnay and pinotquality emerge in chardonnay, shiraz, cabernet noir are both fancied.and merlot. Mudgee was similarly dry, and warmweather made for an early and compressed Rutherglen, along with Glenrowan, boasted avintage. Shiraz, cabernet and chardonnay all cool and wet winter and a warmer-than-average summer. The colour and intensity of the shiraz and muscat will be perfect for fortifieds. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 39

Vignerons in Henty were extremely happy, required widespread use of irrigation, butciting their vintage as the best for 30 years. steady summer temperatures avoided severeThe Pyrenees were dry and warm throughout, heat spikes and brought excellent ripeningbut cabernet and shiraz look exemplary. Mixed conditions. The big three - shiraz, cabernet andfortunes - early frost losses then some hot grenache - all prospered.summer days - affected the Grampians, whereriesling will be the standout. The taps were also turned on in Clare, which faced very warm summer months on the back In Heathcote, yields were down. While the of a dry growing season. Great things areseason finished warm, the nights were cool, nonetheless expected from riesling, and fromresulting in impressive fruit quality, notably in red varieties such as malbec, tempranillo,the region’s specialty, shiraz. In the King Valley sangiovese and mourvedre.meanwhile, a wet December gave way to dry andwarm conditions, favouring shiraz and cabernet. Winter saw the traditional flooding come to Langhorne Creek’s Bremer-side vineyards. Down in Tasmania, things took a markedly Minor summer heatwaves did not affect grapedifferent turn. Yields were well up, sometimes quality, and the white varieties will sit happilyto record levels, across all three main growing alongside excellent cabernet sauvignon andregions, thanks largely to December rains. A warm very good shiraz.summer in the north graded to milder in the south,and brought a condensed vintage. Excellent The Coonawarra got it right - good winter rainschardonnay and pinot noir quality will ensue. offset the dry spring and summer. A vicious frost in November took its toll in the north, but conditions Very low rainfall in winter and spring inevitably thereafter - a warm summer and a cool March -led to use of irrigation in many parts of South brought even ripening and textbook fruit flavoursAustralia, but the outcome of the long dry spell to both cabernet sauvignon and shiraz.has been intense colours and flavours in the fruit. The same frost brought losses to Mount Benson In the Adelaide Hills, there were generally warm and Padthaway, but otherwise a comparativelyconditions in the wake of scarce spring rains, coolish and dry ripening period produced fruitbut a cool March saw fruit ripen perfectly. The with elegance and finesse. Shiraz and sauvignontotal crush eventually matched 2017, and very blanc were the star turns.good wines are expected from shiraz, pinot,chardonnay, sauvignon blanc et al. In the Riverland, the only exception to a steady ripening schedule was a four-day burst of heat in Good winter rainfall was succeeded by a January. The result was good, clean fruit with onlydry spring and summer in the Barossa Valley. a slightly reduced yield overall.March and April brought ideal Indian summerconditions and although yields were 10 per cent In Western Australia things were very different,down on 2017, fruit quality was close to ideal. with good winter and spring rains in evidence, oftenEden Valley got more early rain than the Barossa, above average. After an extra dump of Januaryand with similar weather late in the season, rain courtesy of cyclone Joyce, Margaret Riverexcellent riesling, chardonnay, grenache and had a mild and dry ripening period featuring coolcabernet are on the way. summer nights and free of heat spikes, bringing high yields and exceptional fruit, with outstanding McLaren Vale faced very dry conditions that cabernet and chardonnay the highlights.40 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

Vignerons reported one of the region’s great vintages, with exemplary fruit quality across the board. Conditions were similarly benign across thesub-regions of Great Southern, where vigneronsreported one of the region’s great vintages, withexemplary fruit quality across the board at oftenslightly elevated yields. The rain went on almost too long in Manjimupand Pemberton, raising the threat of mildew, butby autumn cool and dry conditions prevailed.Manjimup’s best were sauvignon blanc, rieslingand pinot noir, while Pemberton points to itschardonnay and shiraz. Things also ran very much to plan in Geographe,with good soil moisture and moderate temperaturesproducing a crop of exceptional quality at onlyslightly reduced yields. The Swan took a beating from a tropical stormin mid-January which led to disease outbreaks,but conditions were otherwise unusually mildand therefore ideal, and the vintage producedsome of the region’s best red wines for manyyears. The Perth Hills also avoided its customarybaking summer, generating excellent shiraz,petit verdot and viognier. The 2018 vintage unfolded against abackground of record overseas demand forAustralian wine, led principally by the apparentlyever-growing thirst of China’s seemingly ever-growing middle class. Expanding exports, whichexceeded $2.7 billion in value for the year toSeptember, have finally slain the dragon ofoversupply, the curse of the industry for morethan a decade. With demand exceeding supply,grape prices are on the up, this year by anoverall average of eight per cent. Without anydanger of hyperbole, it seems the Australianwine industry looks set for a purple patch -weather permitting. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 41

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSALMOST submerged under a huge carpark deep-fried diced chicken also features a mass of K, Nobu) is not given to such abstractions, offeringit’s easy to miss Red Chilli, or even worse to crunchy dried chillies, hot but not ferociously so, an inspired modern Asian mix of Korean, Japanesedismiss it’s bland facade as a front for a less than while the deep-fried prawns with tea leaves and and Chinese-influenced dishes that cover a lotsignificant restaurant. But open the front door and black pepper has a gentle, delicious spiciness. Not of territory, both geographically and stylistically.you’re in for a considerable surprise. everything features chilli. The steamed marinated Beautifully balanced small dishes such as kingfish pork belly with pickled vegetables and broccoli was sashimi with truffle soy and wasabi puree, or Although there are now Red Chilli restaurants melt in the mouth tender, with much more subtle beef tenderloin tataki with quail egg and wasabiin six state and territory capital cities in Australia, flavours, while the Sichuan style tea-smoked duck mayo - an Asian-style steak tartare, lead the way,part of a chain that began in Sydney in 2002, is tender and succulent, with mild smoky flavours. before settling down to larger dishes such as athere’s nothing about the Adelaide version to Red Chilli, 86 Grote St, Adelaide. Open for lunch very homely mapo chicken with soy egg custard,suggest it’s part of some cookie cutter franchise. and dinner daily; phone (08) 8231 9661. or meltingly tender beef ribs with an Asian-styleThe main dining room has 8m-high ceilings pickled salad. The drinks list includes teas sourcedhung with huge glowing lanterns, with one wall Also wedged under a city carpark, Est Ovest exclusively from a Taiwanese tea master, whicha massive aquarium with tanks holding live fish doesn’t look much from the outside, but inside can also be bought from the store. Bai Long Store,and seafood such as grouper, parrot fish and it’s pure Italy, a colourful, noisy celebration of the 80 Hutt St, Adelaide. Open for breakfast Thursdayabalone. Further back and upstairs is a series choice early Italian migrants had to make - east to to Sunday, lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday;of elegant private dining rooms, all individually Australia or west to Canada and the US. phone (08) 8232 5484.themed. You can’t see the kitchens but they’reequally impressive, not least for the all-Sichuan With a list of post-war migrant ships on its front Vardon Ave and Ebenezer Place, tucked awayteam of chefs who speak in local dialect that even window and a wall filled with ’60s mementoes, the just south of Rundle St East, have become foodthe owners don’t understand. That’s authenticity menu is a blast from the past and homage to all and wine destinations that stir the ghosts of thefor you, and it shows in the menu where the those nonnas who longed for the food they used East End Market that once inhabited these lanes.dishes could have come straight from a Chengdu to cook at home. The team of Italian chefs all cookrestaurant, no compromises for western tastes. as if they, too, had just arrived off a migrant boat, None is more worthy of that heritage than Hey keeping their dishes as authentic as they know how. Jupiter. What began as a cute little cafe with One of the most impressive and delicious is the a fairly strong French accent has morphed intochef’s special fish fillets, which gives no hint that it’s There are fluffy pillows of grandmother’s recipe a fully-fledged restaurant that now wouldn’tcovered in a blanket of fat, chopped dried chillies eggless gnocchi in very slow-cooked ragu, look out of place down the boulevard from Lethat’s scooped off to reveal the fish beneath. The crunchy street food snacks straight out of Palermo Deux Magots in Paris, complete with traditional or Naples, Sicilian classics such as rigatoni alla close-spaced pavement tables. Hey Jupiter’s norma and typical cucina povera dishes such as express lunch menu features staples such as pasta with chick peas (pasta cecce). The tortellini beef cheek bourguignonne with mashed potato, in a beef bones and chicken broth tastes so healthy while the dinner menu could have you start with it could bring the dead back to life. Yes, the pizzas mussels steamed in white wine with saffron before are great, too, baked in a splendid-looking copper- moving on to classic dishes such as steak (a encased oven, the star attraction of the open choice of three cuts) with exemplary frits and kitchen. Go for the one with slow-cooked porchetta bearnaise sauce, or whole deboned pan-fried and Calabrese sauce. Not a pineapple in sight. Est trout almondine with green beans. Ovest, Shop 1 / 111 Angas St, Adelaide. Open for breakfast and lunch daily, dinner Wednesday to If you want a traditional, hand cut beef fillet Sunday; phone (08) 8225 6062. tartare, this is where you’ll find it. The wine list stays in theme with a fine regional choice from Bai Long means “white dragon” and here the France. Hey Jupiter, 11 Ebenezer Place, Adelaide. minimalist design is an elaborate metaphor for the Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; phone various elements of this invisible creature. 0416 0505 721. Fortunately head chef Jae Hyun-Park (ex-Bistro Top left: Pork Belly from Red Chilli restaurant. Top right: Red Chilli restaurant interior. Bottom left: Est Ovest restaurant interior. Bottom Right: Porchetta pizza from Est Ovest restaurant.42 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

RED CHILLI CHINESE RESTAURANTis committed to bringing Adelaide the most authenticand finest Szechwan cuisine, and culture. Their chefsare strictly trained, highly experienced and are directlyrecruited from the birthplace of the cuisine style. Majorseasonings and sauces are selected elaborately, andimported from the Szechwan region in China, and theirrecipes have successfully incorporated fresh, local produceinto traditional Szechwan cuisine. From Szechwan style teasmoked duck, homemade sauced Mapo Tofu, and Chef’sspecial fish fillet, they have got more than one hundreddifferent dishes on the menu to meet your appetite. If youare a Szechwan cuisine lover, you shall not miss out RedChilli Chinese Restaurant.CATERING: Restaurant is able to provide flexible cateringservice either small or large group referring to customers’preferences. Our friendly staff would be more than happyprovide any assistance we could to meet customers’satisfaction.FUNCTIONS: Red Chilli is available for exclusivefunction use based on clients’ needs. Dining area is able toaccommodate for up to 150 guests in a seated style.PRIVATE ROOM: There are five exquisite and welldecorated private dining rooms for personal catering needs.(Prior reservation is needed)OPEN 7 DAYSLUNCH: Mon - Sun 11:30 AM- 2:30 PMDINNER: Sun - Thu 5:30 PM - 9:30 PM Fri - Sat 5:30 PM - 10:00 PMADDRESS: 86 Grote Street, Adelaide SA 5000PHONE: 08 8231 9661

BergeracFRENCH CUISINE RESTAURANT Spécial Lunch Menu $34 for 2 courses One main course: $26 Add an entrée or dessert for $8 Entrée - Soup of the day served with freshly baked baguette (choice of 2)- Home-made terrine with chutney, cornichons & toasted baguette - Salad Niçoise, potatoes, olives, green beans, tomato, anchovies - Yellow fin tuna, boiled egg, herb and olive oil dressing. Main - Lamb medallions, served with a potato gratin, rosemary jus. - Grilled Atlantic salmon , roasted Mediterranean vegetables, balsamic glaze. - Grilled chicken (de-boned) roasted potatoes, porcini mushroom sauce. - Plat du Jour: see blackboard for the dish of the day. Vegetarian Option is also available upon request Dessert - Crème brûlée or dessert of the day Please see the blackboard or ask your waiter Wines- Rivarose Brut Rosé Provence glass 14 glass 11- Macon Villages Chardonnay Burgundy glass 12 glass 10- Babich Black Label Sauv. Blanc NZ Marlborough glass 15 glass 12- Beaujolais Georges Duboeuf Gamay France glass 14 glass 10- Bouchard ‘La Vignée’ Pinot Noir Burgundy- Ascot Shiraz Heathcote- Château Penin Cab.Franc. Merlot Bordeaux Supérieur- St Jean de Minervois natural sweet wine Languedoc Bergerac is an authentic French restaurant in the CBD. Bergerac was established in 1985 in King Street by Chef owner Jean-Francois Enconniere. Last February after 32 years in King Street they moved to 555 Lonsdale Street .The restaurant seats 70 people divided in 2 rooms , the front room seats 30 and the back room 40. The terrace seats 30 people. The cuisine is traditional French provincial, the wine list is extensive with wines starting at $38 and 12 wines by the glass. Bergerac is a charming provincial town on the banks of the Dordogne river. It’s the birth place of 2 important persons: Cyrano de Bergerac and Chef owner Jean-François.555 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, VIC 3000 | Tel: 03 9629 2868 | Fax: 03 9629 2868 | Email: [email protected] Visit our website www.bergeracrestaurant.com.au for our full menu

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINSMALL, chef-owned businesses are still popping The drinks list, crafted by his wife Noriko, is a Otways, the tabletops are tactile and textured.up around Melbourne, a hard slog but often the selection of wine, saké and cocktails designed Then there’s the menu, a whole john dorywish of many a chef to drive their own dream. to delicately complement the food. The room is aAnd, there are the chefs who keep going from blend of stonework, wood and textured fabrics in highlights Pickett and his chefs’ classical trainingstrength-to-strength, opening new dining rooms natural tones referencing water and earth. The 25- while keeping its feet firmly in Australia. The fish isand building their own restaurant empires. seat dining room is intentionally cosseted, to bring topped with Matilda’s take on the classic French focus to the food. Its location is on a side-street sauce, grenobloise (typically capers, beurre Chef Kenji Ito has opened his first Melbourne in Fitzroy - in between Brunswick and Nicholson noisette and lemon), and given a native edgerestaurant, Wa Kenbo, in Fitzroy. Ito, who for the streets - with no signage is a homage to many great with the addition of salt bush, desert lime andlast 11 years ran the award-winning Adelaide restaurants in Japanese cities often found off-the- lemon myrtle. The use of wood fire, charcoal andrestaurant, Kenji Modern Japanese, opened the beaten-track. This is a place where every detail is smoke are also strong elements on the menu. Thedoors to Wa Kenbo in September. Ito chose to thoughtfully arranged. Ito‘s precision and attention 28-day, dry-aged Cape Grim scotch fillet at 450gcome to Melbourne to challenge himself. “I’ve to detail is evident throughout, he is a man who or the 21-day, dry-aged grass-fed Hopkins Riveroften visited Melbourne and loved the food here,” truly dedicates himself to the craft of looking after rib eye are both made for the wood-fired grill.Thehe says. “I moved here because I’m looking for people and creating great dining experiences for crisp-skinned, dry-aged duck breast that’s cookedthe challenge of a big city; I want Wa Kenbo to be them. 69 Victoria St, Fitzroy; phone (03) 9041 9495. in the second chamber of a woodfire oven hasone of many great restaurants - not the number become a dish with a cult following. The drinksone restaurant.” Restaurant Shik, the 65-seat, laneway-located, list is comprehensive and they offer wine, beer dimly lit CBD restaurant opened quietly a few and cocktail matches with each dish, depending Humble words from a chef of 23 years who months ago and is slowly making waves for all the on your preference. 159 Domain Rd, South Yarra;first sharpened his knives at the renowned Tsuji right reasons. phone (03) 9089 6668. Culinary Institute in Tokyo, and then went on torefine his skills in Akasaka and Ginza. The Korean-influenced succinct menu is split into Top left: Chef Kenji Ito of Wa Kenbo restaurant. entrees, grilled and braised dishes and banchan Below and bottom: Food from Wa Kenbo restaurant. The menu is a wonderful synergy of Ito’s two (sides). There’s a lot of meat, actually vegetariansworlds, using refined Japanese technique on do get overlooked somewhat, but the seasonalboth Australian and Japanese ingredients, kimchis include fennel and coriander, beetrootincluding vegetables and herbs that he grows and watercress, brussel sprouts and persimmon.at home. Alongside the homegrown ingredients,the innovative and progressive menu is made up The meats are mostly secondary cuts that areof dishes that he shops for daily. The white fish cooked on the grill, perhaps a wagyu intercostalsashimi changes regularly, always with two kinds or Rangers Valley beef short plate (the part of theof fish and always using two preparation methods belly right under the gut) and kimchi-marinatedsuch as cured, seared or raw fish depending on pork neck, each served with a banchan or two,the fish’s condition and season. Other dishes may leaves and ssamjang (a sweet and spicy paste).include Hoji tea-smoked duck breast, duck neckChorizo, soy-soaked grilled Shishito, pickled The 60-bottle wine list is almost entirely naturalquandong and Sansho peppercorn jus, Sumiyaki and Shik also stocks three types of the spirit sojuchargrilled Ichiyaboshi whole fish, Myoga & distilled the traditional way, using rice. 30 NiagaraMitsuba soy vinegar sauce with Goma-ae broad Lane, Melbourne; phone (03) 9670 5195.beans, and the slow-cooked Kuro-buta pork bellywith steamed Hakusai pork roll, shiitake, crackling, Flowering displays that change with the seasonsShichimi pepper-pickled Nashi pear, which was highlight the changeable menu at Scott Picket’sIto’s signature dish in his Adelaide restaurant. new restaurant Matilda. The dining tables, by furniture-maker Hugh Makin, also add to the rich aesthetic. Constructed from two felled trees in the Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 45

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELJAMES Street in Brisbane’s iconic Fortitude Valley above the outdoor tables, lend an authenticity and emerged as Burnt Ends, an attractive but short-has become a mecca for fashionistas, with national feeling of relaxed comfort to the place, as does the lived venture by Nantucket Kitchen owner TJand global brands choosing the leafy locale to family-style menu of Hellenic classics. Peabody. Now its lights are shining bright oncehang their shingles. more with the recent takeover by seasoned The Hellenika signature banquet is hard to professional Javier Codina, the Spanish marvel There’s a mini David Jones, dedicated to women’s resist and perfect for larger tables. It begins with behind Gianni (and then Moda) in the CBD for thefashion, popular Brisbane-based boutiques beautifully seasoned raw fish dressed with olive oil past 20 years. He and general manager FrancoisSamantha Ogilvie, Maryons and Calexico sit beside from Crete, regani and Cypriot sea salt and a plate Le Saveant had been looking for a new location,other Australian labels such as Scanlon & Theodore, of taramasalata with chunks of bread and EVOO. one better suited to the current and ongoing trendLee Mathews, Gail Sorronda and Camilla. Kolokithia, zucchini chips sprinkled with grated of casualisation. Rather than stay “suited up” after kefalograviera comes next followed by a plate work, many prefer to flee the city and find relaxed And in between all the glam are some of the best of calamari strips soaked in butter, oregano and venues on the outskirts and city fringe wheredining spots and watering holes in the city. Gerard’s lemon. Crumbed king george whiting is sublime as the service and food offering is more relaxed,and Gerard’s Bar are here and so are Harvey’s and is the square pasta and beef shank ragu, cooked though still offering the same, first-rate quality andTinderbox, Cru Bar & Cellar and Bucci. until the beef falls apart at the touch. deliciously innovative cuisine. Moda Tapas Brasa Bar opened in early October with a light, bright The Calile Hotel has been a work in progress for the And speaking of falling apart at the touch, you menu to please most sensibilities. Summery dishespast three years but the jewel in the James St crown will only need a fork for the Junee lamb, baked include reef fish ceviche with orange blossom,opened it’s elegant doors in October, showcasing with lemony potatoes and a crisp Greek salad, that zucchini flowers with a salmon mousse and crayfishsuperb design and an old Hollywood-meets-Palm offsets the richness of the meat courses. Finish with vinaigrette, and Harvey Bay scallops with jamonSprings vibe, by architects Richards & Spence. a bougatsa, a custard filled filo parcel and a scoop and saffron cauliflower, but there are also more of sweet/savoury halva ice cream. robust flavours in dishes such as black pudding Roomy, light-filled retail shops line the street level with roasted pears and Manolete chorizo withand there’s a cosy Lobby Bar open seven days The poolside cabanas can accommodate up Bundaberg capsicums. And then there is the brasa,to bunker down in, post retail therapy session. to eight guests. You can book them through the an enclosed charcoal oven made and importedRooms range from “essential” to luxury suites and restaurant and take dips in the pool between from Spain that delivers the smoky deliciousnessall feature almost Japanese style design restraint courses. There are also event spaces that have to meats, fish and poultry like no other.and liberal use of natural marble, soft honed woods already become popular with brides, fashionand deluxe soft furnishings. houses and the design community. Pool Deck There’s a black onyx tomahawk, a veal fiorentina, Level 1, 48 James St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) wagyu marble score nine, and juicy spatchcock The pared back aesthetic continues throughout 3252 2060. The Calile Hotel, 48 James St, Fortitude which is served with charry corn and sides ofall aspects of the complex but the first floor is where Valley; phone (07) 3607 5888. patatas bravas and heirloom cauliflower.it all sparkles. A crystal clear rectangular poolgreets you as you arrive upstairs on to the pool The brick and concrete The room is moodily lit with exposed brick anddeck, surrounded by eight shaded cabana’s and bunker that fronts the popular beams adding warmth and that characteristicrows of sunbathing lounges above which a line of Barracks Complex, Petrie “bunker” vibe. Booths clad in green leather runCocos palms sway in the tropical breeze. It’s also Tce, on the Brisbane CBD down one wall and there’s a pretty indoor/outdoorwhere you’ll find Hellenika, Simon Gloftis’ Modern fringe has been home to some room opposite with bistro seating separating the two.Greek, also at Mermaid Beach on the Gold Coast. interesting venues over theSubtle references to tavernas on Greek Islands - past few decades. Starting life “Javier’s table experience” is a concept madewooden tables and rattan chairs, striped umbrellas as part of the adjacent army popular while still in the CBD - three courses, base, it then morphed into including a range of tapas and entremeses The Underground nightclub, followed by a selection from the brasa, then dessert an ’80s institution for over a all selected by Javier and served family-style to the decade. whole table - works especially well in the new, more laid back environment. The Barracks, 61 Petrie Tce, After a stint in corporate Brisbane; phone (07) 3221 7655. life as a property developer’s office, the moody, heritage- Top: Pool at The Calile Hotel, photo credit Sean Fennessy. listed space underwent an Left: Interior lobby of The Calile Hotel, photo credit Sean Fennessy. extensive makeover and46 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KINGIN the middle of Sydney’s long run of wet weather in beers, house wines on taps, Italian spirits and liqueurs For decades the Evening Star hotel in Surry HillsOctober, Matteo Downtown was packed for lunch on and the 300-strong international wine selection with a was known as the “evil star” because many of itsa dreary Tuesday. Once inside the dining room, after strong bias towards Italy. Matteo Downtown, 20 Bond patrons were tabloid journalists from News Corps’traversing the bar and outdoor area, the atmosphere St, Sydney; phone (02) 9241 2008. Holt St HQ. There was a brief moment of internationalwas pure Rome, right down to the snappily dressed On Friday evenings the Quarrymans Hotel in Pyrmont fame when Nirvana’s doomed Kurt Cobain droppedwaiters in perfectly matched separates and expensive is crammed with young creatives and management by for a game of pool. Marvan Hotels, owners ofsneakers. Adam Abrams, Eddie Levy and chef from the nearby ad and design agencies. The Westmead Hotel and The Flynn, have spruced upOzario D'Elia of The Adored Group have reprised heritage-listed pub closed for renovations in 2013 the property with a theme that would have madethe success of Matteo Double Bay, opened in 2017, and re-emerged as a craft beer mecca with 26 taps earlier patrons gasp. Re-born as Gweilo, Cantonesein the heart of the city adjacent to Australia Square. and independent brands, including Young Henrys, slang for Westerners which translates as “ghostBut there’s a lot more on offer than the double-proved Stone & Wood, FogHorn and CoConspirators. The man”, the old Anglo bolthole dating back to 1873pizza dough that made the Eastern suburb’s outpost main bar is emblazoned with the legend - In Hops now has a pan-Asian menu more in keeping withsuch a must-dine. Matteo Downtown boasts Sydney’s We Trust. But there really is something for everyone as the local apartment owners and students from thefirst mozzarella bar for starters. The fresh cheeses are you climb up the narrow staircases to each floor from nearby universities. The head chef is Sebastian Gee,delivered daily from multi-award winning producer La the outdoor courtyard, first floor meeting and venue who has worked in some of Sydney’s finest AsianStella Latticini. I have a passion for burrata and the space with its own bar to the latest addition - The eateries, including Kid Kyoto, China Diner, Chinacow milk burrata, nettle, sea vegetables and trout Rooftop. Sydney has experienced a rash of rooftop Lane and Sailors Thai. The new decor is slightlyroe is the stuff of an addict’s fantasies. Other diners bar openings recently, tracking the established trend Blade Runner - the first film - with a retro-vintagewere tucking the buffalo mozzarella and house-cured in Europe and New York. Designer Matt Woods, vibe. So are the prices on a Saturday night when $10kurobuta capocollo, cow milk ricotta, Blackmore renowned for the interiors of Bloodwood and Devon, will get you a beer and a bao. The wine list caters towagyu bresaola and giusti aged balsamico, and cow has curated a hideaway with city views that takes its deeper pockets and more sophisticated tastes frommilk straciatella and prawns crudo with equal gusto. cue from a grab bag of inspirations. The pastels are Mumm Champagne through Laurent Savoye FleurieFollowing the opening act it was time to take in the very Miami Art Deco with an abundance of cacti and la Cadole Gamay from Burgundy, Dr. H. Thanischsurroundings. Design firm Acme & Co, responsible greenery adding an American desert overlay. There’s Riesling Kabinett from Germany and local bottlingsfor The Grounds of Alexandria, Fred’s and Felix Bar porthole openings, Scandi furniture, copper panels, such as Spring Seed Morning Bride Organic Roséfit outs, have crafted a surprisingly intimate dining exposed brick and a pink DJ booth that keeps things and Battle of Bosworth Shiraz. There’s hot-to-trotroom of slick white tiles and banquette seating, a thumping for the weekend crowd. A stone’s throw cocktails such as Nori Spect - Nori whisky, kaffirswish bar area that would make the grade in Milan from Darling Harbour and The Star casino, visitors to lime and lemongrass syrup - to play up the Suzieand an open kitchen. The two bespoke pizza ovens, Sydney should experience at least one sunset drinks Wong vibe. The menu is divided into “Smalls” andhandmade by the Visciano family of Naples, are put session here. The health conscious can blur the lines “Bigs” and the creative, cross-cultural combos reallyto good use. But Matteo Downtown is open all day with one of the spritzes such as the kombucha spritz work. Think haloumi, hot and sour peppers, olivesfor breakfast, lunch and dinner. Office workers can with Finlandia grapefruit vodka. Or sip a craft beer, and betel leaves and eggplant parmi - eggplant andpop in for fresh-baked pastries such as sfogliatella cocktail or glass of wine from the expertly curated parmesan katsu with Napoli sauce. Standouts in theand ravioli dolci or standout egg dishes like uovo in list. Classic pub grub with California/Mex touches is larger dishes include the snapper, grilled shallot andpurgatorio and cacio e peppe - scrambled eggs with on hand for those who need to soak up their alcohol enoki mushrooms, and the wagyu beef shin, carrotpecorino cheese, Italian pork sausages, cannellini intake. Servings are generous so take care not to over- and Tooheys New rendang. A wonderful local take onbeans and miche bread - before heading to work. order. We started with a chunky guacamole dip and trendy Hong Kong restaurants like Happy ParadisePizzas are popular for lunch, but a high proportion of bruschetta which would have been enough for light that skilfully mix Cantonese cooking with Westernsuits prefer meatier fare such as pork cutlet Milanese, eaters. Many of the younger male patrons needed flavours and techniques. Gweilo, 360 Elizabeth St,pickled baby peppers and seasonal fragrant leaves, more sustenance after a day at work and were drawn Surry Hills; phone (02) 9281 8177. Mirrool Creek lamb backstrap, Jerusalem artichokes to the bangers and mash with onion gravy, fish andand mint potato croquettes and free-range pan- chips and pickle fried chicken burger with a huge Top left: Food and drinks from The Rooftop.roasted quails and farro salad for a business lunch or order of fries. Need to share? Fill up with the buffalo Above: Exterior of The Rooftop.early dinner. Those with less time to spare can grab a wings with blue cheese sauce, chicken tacos withpasta such as the housemade bucatini alla gricia or a salsa fresca or salmon poke salad with ginger andpanino. Anyone scheduling a late afternoon meeting mentsuyu sauce. The Rooftop, Quarrymans Hotel,should consider the two-hour aperitivo from 4pm to 214-216, Harris St, Pyrmont; phone (02) 9660 0560.6pm weekdays. Or linger over an edited list of craft Open noon Wednesday to Sunday. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 47

hong konggrapevineLUCY JENKINSWHISPER it but can it really be winter in Hong 23-29, 1/F Stanley St, Central; phone +852 2887 from birth to slaughter. Go up to the counter,Kong? In a city which is famed for its heat and 1113 or visit lpmlondon.co.uk. order your meat of choice, choose a sauce andhumidity for around nine months of the year, then your garnish. which to Feather & Bonethe idea of putting on a jacket and even gloves The name Feather & Bone might bring to mind means a hefty portion of hand-cut chips, maple-is a novel concept - so much so that people slightly gory Game of Thrones imagery and it’s dressed leaves and kale and garlic butter.shop with great fervour for winter clothes in the fair to say that if you’re not a real meat lover With quick and efficient service, and light andsame way others do for floaty summer threads the experience might not be for you. However, airy venues, Feather & Bone is a great placein cooler climes. if the words grass-fed tenderloin is like music for breakfast (think the usual eggs/avocado to your ears, then this deli/restaurant combo is amalgamations), a hearty lunch or a laidback So if there is one cuisine that calls when there’s one concept you won’t have a beef with. dinner. Just bring an appetite. Feather & Bone,a drop in the mercury, a good contender must Shop 1, G/F Bohemian House, 321 Des Voeuxsurely be rustic French food - hearty, simple With branches in Central, Sai Ying Pun, Rd West, Sai Ying Pun; phone +852 3705 0280and well done. Step forward La Petite Maison, Happy Valley and Clearwater Bay, Feather & or visit featherandbone.com.hk. which to great excitement has opened in Hong Bone offers straightforward dishes such asKong as a sister restaurant to the flagship in freshly shucked oysters, duck breast with black Top left: Feather and Bone interior.London and a cousin to the ones in Dubai, Abu pudding, smoked lemon chicken and moules Top right: Steak tartare from La Petite Maison restaurant.Dhabi, Miami and Istanbul. Inside is a haven to mariniere, but it’s the meat counter where it Below: Feather and Bone deli counter and restaurant interior.all things white and linen. Tables are perhaps really comes into its own. The butcher’s countera little too close together which is fine if you’re offers every available cut of steak going, allin rural France maybe, but in tightly-packed hailing from Australia and undoubtedly nurturedHong Kong where people love the idea of spacebecause no one has any, the restaurant could doworse than taking out a few. However, the foodcertainly shakes up the idea of French cuisinein Hong Kong - not that it’s complicated whichFrench food never needs to be, but because it’sso well executed. Fat succulent snails in garlicbutter sauce, tender veal chop, juicy rib-eye,and steak tartare with enough piquancy to keepit interesting. It is not cheap. But then it’s nottrying to be. With lavish touches of white andgold, and lissom waiters gliding about refillingwater glasses, replenishing wine glasses andever-ready with warm home-made bread, therather hefty pricing can be forgiven. In a placewhere mediocre French bistros are on nearlyevery street corner with an un-mediocre pricetag to match, La Petite Maison currently rulesthe roost. La Petite Maison, Shop 1, H Queen’s,48 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019

Special Awards Feature 2018Featuring the winners and placegettersfor each varietal category tastedthroughout the year. Plus profiles of theAustralian and New Zealand winemakerand wine company of the year.Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019 W I N E S TAT E 49

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S 2 0 1 8THE JUDGING Dave Matthews Peter Simic Bill Hardy Classic OakBEST OF THE BEST Chair: CEO & Editor/ Consultant, former Brand Publisher, Winestate Ambassador, Accolade WinesJUDGESWELCOME to Winestate magazine’s “cream the Australian and New Zealand winemakers are For Australia, the Winestate Australian Winemakerof the crop” judging for 2018. Here we invite world class in their endeavors. To further prove of the Year went to Shane Harris from Wines bywineries to resubmit those wines awarded four the point at the recent Hong Wine Exhibition Geoff Hardy, for the second time (one for the office,and a half and five stars from numerous judgings judging Australia won five trophies with New one for the poolroom). It is astonishing the numberthroughout the year held both in Australia and New Zealand second, way ahead of all other countries, of varietals he manages to produce, most at aZealand. These range from regional judgings to including France. Now if we can only get highly awarded level. Winestate Wine Companyso-called style tastings such as chardonnay, or marketing to catch up and tell the world! And not of the Year was Wolf Blass Wines, accepted bysweet whites, or new release judgings held for be shy about it. Senior Winemaker and previous Winestate judge,each issue. Marie Clay. This was a year for the Kiwis with six trophies In what is effectively a trophy judging, our panel going “across the ditch” as they say. Three were Our Best Value Wine of the Year went to wine fromof three expert judges were asked to blind taste won by Villa Maria, one by Esk Valley and one Margaret River, the Story Bay Semillon Sauvignoneach category in turn, to select the Top 5 wines each to Main Divide and St Clair. On average Blanc 2017. This wine is exclusively made for Coleswithout fear or favour, then identify the winner in each year New Zealand wins four out of the 14 Liquor and it's the second time Coles has receivedeach group and finally an overall Wine of the Year categories involved. Congratulations must be this award. The wine achieved 5 stars with us in ourfor Australia and New Zealand. This is entirely given on this higher result. For Australia there Best of the West tasting early in the year and is onlyblind until all results and final Wine of the Year is was the usual mix of seasoned winners such as $7! Amazing value at this price point.decided. No duds here! Morris in the fortified section, Coolangatta Estate in the Semillon section and a Clare Valley beauty Winestate Australian Wine of the Year was a Our trophy panel this year included Dave from Reilly wines. The consistency of these styles shock to everyone, including their winemakers,Matthews, Sales executive with Classic Oak and should be celebrated. Less predictable was a De Beaurepaire Coeur d’Or Mudgee Botrytisformer senior winemaker over many years with winning sparkling wine from Singlefile, Denmark, Semillon 2016. To win this award the wine had tothe Treasury Group, plus Bill Hardy, former Senior a fiano from Artwine, a Malbec from Angas & stand out against its line-up of peers which it did inwinemaker and brand ambassador for the Hardy/ Bremer and a sweet white from De beaurepaire spades, showing a more sauternes savoury finishAccolade group. Finally in the absence of our from Rylstone, a region that few have heard of. that was superb.regular chair, Steven John, I adopted that role, Mr Riggs winning the Winestate shiraz categoryas I did last year. was an amazing achievement given that over 200 Finally a very big congratulations goes to Villa shiraz wines were in the category. Maria for our Winestate Wine of the Year (featured With over 400 wines to judge it was an exacting on our front cover). This is the superbly craftedbut most enjoyable task and my thanks go to my For the big group trophies we were delighted Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Cabernetfellow judges who provided their expertise in a to have Sir George Fistonich owner of Villa Sauvignon Merlot 2015. An amazing wine and wellvery smooth operation with little disagreement Maria wines present the Winestate New Zealand deserving of this honour. Sorry Australia, you can’tbetween us all. The biggest issue was that there Winemaker of the Year trophy to Villa’s Nick win it every year!were so many great contenders proving that both Picone, followed shortly after by accepting the Winestate New Zealand Wine Company of the If you get the opportunity please buy and taste*All technical details for the Wine of the Year Year. Villa Maria is a perennial winner of this trophy any of these wines. You will be greatly rewarded.Special Feature are supplied directly from each and this year they excelled winning five trophieswinery. in this Trans-Tasman competition. Cheers! Peter Simic Editor/Publisher50 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2019