Winestate Magazine March April 2010

Ri c h ard. . .Go2ldf0o0Mr9WBeRdeionasyetal lS&SAhhdoTiewrrloaapzidhey Gol2dfo0Mr09WBeMdeinacseLtlaS&SrhehonTiwrrVoaapzlehy2008 Richard Hamilton Shiraz... the perfect dinner guest. Stockists: Vic, NSW, Qld – Fesq & Co p: 02 9313 1888 SA, NT – Options Wine Merchants p: 08 8346 9111Tas – David Johnston & Assoc p: 03 6234 9999; WA – Strategic Wine p:08 9564 0088 Cnr Main & Johnston Rds, McLaren Vale SA 5171 p: 08 8323 8830 e: [email protected] w: www.leconfieldwines.com

Grapes of the CAPEBlending 350 years of history der Stel, planted vines in the Constantiain the old New World Valley in the lee of Table Mountain.ANDRE PRETORIUS The sweet wines of Constantia - Vin de Constance in particular - graced the mostA B OV E U S an impish wind ruffled that the 2005 would reward patience - like august tables of the time. Frederick the the 1986 with its velvety elegance, its Great of Prussia enjoyed it. It is reputed tothe fading foliage of the venerable old oaks restrained but complex flavours. have been Napoleon’s favourite tipple duringoutside Kanonkop’s tasting room. The first his exile in St Helena. In 1811 Jane Austenrains had come after a long, hot summer of You might expect no less. The 2009 edition had one of her characters in Sense anddrought and bushfires. It was a public holiday, of South Africa’s wine bible, Platter’s, named Sensibility recommend Constantia’s wines asyet we were alone. Alone, that is, except for Kanonkop Winery of the Year and awarded a remedy against not only gout, but also for itsa decanter of Kanonkop’s 1986 Cabernet its 2004 cabernet a five-star rating. The “healing powers on a disappointed heart”.Sauvignon. The estate offers the current estate, just north of Stellenbosch, is onevintage of its admirably focused range of four of the Cape’s most illustrious, its fortunes Yet Cape wine has also suffered thereds for tasting, but you can also buy the same entwined with that of 20th century South vicissitudes of history. At the end of the 19thwines by the glass to enjoy under the oaks. Africa and its wine industry. century, phylloxera devastated the Cape’s vines as comprehensively as anywhere else Or, if you are feeling decadent, you can Last year was a big year for that industry: (Vin de Constance disappeared, to revivebuy a bottle of one of the older vintages on 2 February 1659 the first Dutch governor only in 1986).for sale at the cellar door (the product of of the Cape, Jan van Riebeeck, recordedwine futures bought but never collected). in the journal of his fledgling settlement But South African winemaking perhapsSo, 1986 it was: an utterly beautiful wine at Cape Town, “Today, praise be to God, suffered more from ideology than biology:of great finesse in which the fruit was still wine was first pressed from Cape grapes, the dead hand of apartheid-era isolationvibrant, despite its venerable age. and the new must was tested fresh from and parochialism arrested development the vat.” - 350 years, that is, since the first in methods and taste. Hence some of the Tasting it alongside its much younger wine was made in South Africa. great names of 1986 have faded from2005 sibling was an instructive case study memory, supplanted by wineries barely inin ageing and changing taste predilections: In those three and a half centuries, their teens, born in the boom that followedboth wines were exceedingly drinkable, South African wines attained lofty heights. the end of apartheid in 1994.only in very different ways. The younger Van Riebeeck had planted his vines inwine had punch, overt fruit and ripe tannins. the Company Gardens, some of which It is a history rich in contradictions andIn South Africa, as almost everywhere, survive as a botanical garden near the ambivalence. The story of South African winewines are drunk young and made to be South African Parliament building. But is the story of slave girls who founded wineenjoyable in their youth. But it was obvious in 1685 another governor, Simon van dynasties, of villains redeeming themselves through fermentation, of heroes sunk by wine, of winemaking rugby players, of financiers making and losing fortunes, of imperialists building the most elegant empires of wine, of cultures clashing and merging and creating.Above: Old South African farmhouse in Stellenbosch. Opposite: Paved road in Stellenbosch reaching out to the mountains catching late afternoon sunshine.52 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010



WINE IS LIKE A WOMAN. NATURE HAS MADE HER WHAT SHE IS.ONE CAN IMPROVE ON NATURE BUT NOT CHANGE IT. The stage for this play of history - the Cape commemorated in the estate’s Bordeaux- memorial to all those who had gone before.wine lands with their dramatic mountains style blend, ‘Ansela van de Caab’. There is a small museum, displayingand fertile slopes - is more beautiful than archaeological finds from the farm andany other wine region I have yet seen. Like Embracing the past has become a theme tracing its history from prehistoric times toRobben Island - that bastion of iniquity in at many of the Cape’s estates. Take the road the present, and a restaurant with a glassthe shadow of Table Mountain; that emblem from Stellenbosch over the Helshoogte (‘hell’s floor over an archaeological excavation.of natural beauty - the story of wine at the height’) Pass and around the SimonsbergCape combines beauty and tragedy. through the little settlement of Pniel. The narrative panels celebrate great characters from its history, like its second More and more estates are embracing In the bad old days of ‘group areas’, owner, Christoffel Snijman, the son of Grootethe creative tension of their history. Pniel was a ‘Coloured’ village, between Catrijn, the first female convict sent to theTake Kanonkop itself. It was bought Stellenbosch and the next great wine Cape - for murdering her lover in Batavia (nowby a liberal Cape politician, JW Sauer, town, Franschhoek. Centuries before that, Jakarta and then also a Dutch possession).and inherited by his son, Paul Sauer, Franschhoek became the African refuge for Yet, Snijman’s parentage did not prevent hima National Party politician who wrote a Huguenots who fled France in 1685 after marrying the daughter of one of the most1947 report that became the blueprint for the repeal of the Edict of Nantes, which distinguished Huguenot refugees.the policy of ‘separate development’, to had guaranteed their freedom of religionbe known later as ‘apartheid’. in Catholic France. And yet further back - Such stories, and the indigenous peoples millennia before - this verdant valley with its and early slaves, are not only represented in The estate is still owned by his family, and soaring granite walls that turn a tender pink the glass display cases: their descendants,the estate’s flagship Bordeaux-style blend at dusk, was home to the indigenous groups the Coloured people who have long been– ‘Paul Sauer’ - is named after him. Whatever that dwelt here before van Riebeeck settled such a neglected part of the history of Capethe legacy of Sauer the politician, Sauer the in 1652. Turn off at Solms Delta and you find wine, are Solms’s joint venture partners. Theirvigneron left a benign inheritance to Cape a laudable attempt to reconcile and integrate wines are eminently drinkable, if not stellar,wine. In his foreword to a slim volume from this history - or, perhaps, these histories. and their names - wines like Hiervandaan,1955 - Wines of the Cape by C. de Boscari Lekkerwijn and Langarm (‘From Here’,- Sauer foreshadowed a sound philosophy for Mark Solms is a South African-born ‘Nice Wine’ and ‘Long Arm’, a referencethe wines of the Cape (albeit in terms to make psychoanalyst and lecturer in neurosurgery to a local style of dancing!) - celebrate athe 21st century reader wince): “Wine is like in London, who returned to the Delta farm, shared African and Afrikaans heritage.a woman. Nature has made her what she is. one of the oldest in the Franschhoek valley, ‘Empowerment’ is a miserable word, belovedOne can improve on nature but not change in 2001 and set about turning it into ait. A blonde can be made a more beautifulblonde, but a brunette cannot be made ablonde without diminishing her quality. Sotoo with wines. We cannot imitate the wineof some circumscribed area in another partof the world and should not try to.” History, once made, cannot be unmade;the past cannot be undone. Paul Sauer is asmuch part of the story of wine at the Capeas Ansela van de Caab, a slave girl at theCastle in Cape Town when she encounteredLourens Campher, a German soldier whoowned Kanonkop’s neighbouring farm,Muratie. After Ansela was freed theymarried, becoming the first family toown Muratie (where the house Campherbuilt himself still stands). And Ansela is54 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

Above: Dylan Lewis life-size bronze cheetah. (Photographer Steve Corner) Opposite: Stellenbosch is famous for its wine.of management and sociology types, Nothing, perhaps, captures better this find another who could not resist. The shortbut in the witty Coloured man conducting irresistible blend than the sight of a Italian New Yorker, touring the wine countryour tasting it was made flesh. whitewashed Cape Dutch homestead with his much younger (second?) wife, against the backdrop of those mountains: has none of the stature of Marlon Brando, Such is the beauty of the Cape wine the Simonsberg, like a reclining giant in but close your eyes and it could be Donlands; they can never escape their often outline, or the Helderberg. Here is where Corleone speaking in The Godfather.troubled, tragic history of racial injustice Europe came to Africa, transforming bothand divide, but that is only one part of into an utterly novel beauty. Don Corleone asks to start tasting the finetheir history. Now, 350 years after van Jordan range of dry reds and whites withRiebeeck’s first wine and 15 years after The streets of Stellenbosch are an open- their botrytised sweet wine, Mellifera, andthe end of apartheid, the Cape appears to air museum, illuminating the history of the holds forth loudly on the great wines he hasbe creating a complex, rewarding blend Cape in architecture. Arts and crafts are sold drunk. Then he asks whether the estate’sfrom that history, rather than attempting the from what were 18th century farmhouses, premium Nine Yards Chardonnay is a redimpossible feat of escaping from it. grand 19th century mansions house fine or white wine … the girl manning the tasting restaurants, a fine art museum occupies an room winks at me. Some may find the Cape’s concoction of old school, historic churches mark centuriescultures too incongruous: these shades of of division by denomination and race. I leave them behind and stroll out into theold Europe - in architecture, art and attitude garden with a glass of their fine cabernet- which are so exotic to Africa, and yet a part The oaks lining the streets are another sauvignon in hand. Below me the vines marchof Africa. But it is in the contradictions that European inoculation on this African root. away to the valley, before again rising up thebeauty lies. The 17th century Dutch Golden In their shade, 32 stunning life-size bronzes lower reaches of the Helderberg beyond.Age resonates not only in the elegant of African big game - cheetah, buffalo, The sky has cleared now, but on this morninggables and heavy yellow-wood beams and rhino, lion - by artist Dylan Lewis have been the clouds of grey and white had swirledfurniture of the Cape’s old homesteads, but exhibited prominently throughout town for a around the peaks and settled in the valleysalso in their names. Muratie means ‘ruin’ year. They, too, echo this European Africa: in a premonition of the kind of winter weatherin the old Dutch spelling, and the names the bronze sculpture of Europe in the shape that earned this cape the sobriquet of ‘Capeof wineries like Vergelegen, Rustenberg, of Africa’s beasts. of Storms’. But even at its most tempestuous,Rust-en-Vrede, Boschendal, Meerlust, it remained a Cape of Good Hope too, aVergenoegd and Morgenhof sing with a I may be biased, but the Cape is an place of beauty, which is finding a way to turnkind of poetry of a bygone age. irresistible kind of place and, at the end of its history into a beguiling blend. a road petering out into the Jordan winery, I March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 55

adelaidegrapevineGRAEME ANDREWSDedicated politicians, inspirational sports to have chosen to permanently bond Now change focus to what’s delivered toheroes and impassioned restaurateurs with Atlantic salmon. And don’t forget the your table. Let’s see. Snapper croquettesappear to be going the same pathway as chocolate assiette, so good you’ll want to with lemon and aioli entree. Four identicalprehistoric dinosaurs. Fortunately, Ben lick the plate in delight. balls on a bed of rocket leaves with a light,Warren, part-owner and front person crumbly exterior wrapped around a dense,of Mantra on King William, is a fully Wine offerings primarily embrace an fishy cream. Wow! What a delightful unionpaid up member of this endangered but ever-changing selection of noteworthy of rich flavours and texture; it’s like beingresilient group. His restaurant eschews Australian micro, small and medium makers unexpectedly zapped by a high-energypopular chrome and glass minimalist plus new varietals trickling through to the charge. I skip steaks, chicken, fish anddecorative twists in favour of a low- marketplace. But the rest of the world’s not duck in favour of the lone vegetarian main.key, roughly U-shaped group of rooms, forgotten in the process. Mantra lures wine Despite being a committed carnivore, Ireconstructed within a solid stone heritage sophisticates like moths to a flame. There often feel compelled to ‘go vego’ to test abuilding. White walls, a clutch of generously is always something excitingly different restaurant’s creativity. Nine times out of 10spaced, solid farmhouse and period to challenge your palate. Wait staff are alltimber tables, comfortable dark chocolate exceedingly wine savvy and know what these dishes tend to be mere afterthoughts,leatherette chairs, premium glassware and works with what. Take advantage, it’s a dull and unimaginative. So here goes: fresh,vast red gum clad bar. A small external rare situation. hand-rolled broccoli tortellini crescentscourtyard allows smokers to indulge in their with almond butter sauce, lemon, rocketvice. Clubby pleasantness and relaxed Streamlined, professional and, yes, I’ll say and shaved manchego. Sublime! Visuallyambience about sums it up. it again, intelligently rolled out. Everything beautiful, balanced complexity, moreish and that a good restaurant should be. 36 King so delicious, I wolf down every last one. But a few reworked walls and conducive William Rd. Goodwood; phone (08) 8377setting do not a restaurant make. Ben and 7201; www.mantraonkingwilliam.com.au It becomes obvious that here’s a kitchenhis team have taken what I call an intelligent team hell bent on rattling their cage.approach, lifting dining from good to special While refurbishment and major Ordinary regional dining room culinaryby merging key components. Head chef renovations of inner-city hotels continue at boundaries have been brilliantly tweaked toDioni Pike works hard to ensure Mantra’s a cracking pace, regeneration in rural areas an exciting new level, providing restauranthouse style, seasonal Australian with a remains far more contained. Verdun’s 1853 food, a country mile from the usual pubstrong Mediterranean spine, remains firmly Stanley Bridge Hotel received its first big grub. Entrees average $14, mains mid-toon track. Local produce is used where contemporary upgrade only seven years medium $20s and desserts an eye-poppingpossible, with no compromise on quality. ago. Since then the management baton has $10 or less. So prices, too, will have youMenu format includes plates for sharing rapidly passed through a number of hands. grinning from ear to ear.as well as more familiar appetisers, mains The current team of co-owners, head chefand desserts. Think crispy soft shell blue David Hooper, sous Michelle Rogers and A chat later with head chef David Hooperswimmer crab with sesame cake and fragrant front-of-house Marcus Ramsey, plus a few revealed the menu was still evolving. He’swater, all crunchy crustacean, oily residue others behind the scenes, have taken the keen on continuing the provenance of localfree and redolent with subtle aromatics; or direction of positioning their establishment produce where possible, but expanding theclassic, hearty steak tartare with quail egg as comfy pub with a good restaurant southern Mediterranean influences with Northand pommes frites. Daily, ultra-fresh fish are attached. In fact, on reflection, I’ll make that African touches. A work in progress, it wouldselected on merit, not variety (thankfully), a surprisingly good restaurant. seem. I can’t wait to revisit. 41 Onkaparingaunlike other establishments which seem Rd, Verdun; phone (08) 8388 7249. Ambience follows a rustic, country Australian path, devoid of glitzy flash Top: Stanley Bridge’s interior. generated by big cash. Entry is via a snug Above: Stanley Bridge Hotel’s broccoli tortellini dish. but eclectic front bar, complete with church pew, authentic stone fireplace and sundry ‘wacky’ knick-knacks that will have you scratching your head in puzzlement. The spacious dining room, casually dressed with warm autumn tones, has large rear picture windows overlooking a lush green exterior. There’s also a scattering of time- mellowed, well-spaced timber tables and chairs. All slightly farmhouse, I suppose, but nevertheless relaxing and really quite pleasant. The menu covers the usual bases but doesn’t read in a way that makes you salivate in anticipation.56 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING and parsley grissini, spinach and radicchio up of Polish digestifs on offer. 161 Glebe is a sumptuous opener at only $17. Or for Point Rd, Glebe; phone (02) 9660 1242. the hungry man in tow, the braised Macleay Valley rabbit with fresh papardelle and Spain doesn’t have a lock on bar snacks. sauted pine mushrooms keeps hunger Other nations, notably Italy, also do a mean pangs at bay before the mains arrive. line in small, shared plates. Aperitivo is a welcome addition to Leichhardt’s Norton St Culinary experiments can fail even in the eat strip and in January live music became most seasoned hands, but Paul’s crisp- a permanent fixture to wind up the already skinned kingfish with roast duck consomme humming atmosphere another notch or two. and salad of duck was little short of inspired. Not that the decor alone isn’t a stimulating Meat lovers found it hard to go past roasted experience - shiny red chairs, dark wood beef rump cup with smoked eggplant, tables, raw brick walls and black light globes. parsley puree and bone marrow sauce. Just the right backdrop for sensational Many of the puds showcase Paul’s ItalianSydney restaurateurs showed a quiet heritage, but desserts such as steamedconfidence as the year bowed. Miguel apple and pine nut pudding with cinnamonMaestre, the ebullient host of LifeStyle ice cream are proof that he can jump theFood’s Miguel’s Tropical Kitchen, opened cultural divide with finesse. A superblyEl Toro Loco at Manly in January - great selected wine list weaves though France,food coupled with out-to-the-horizon ocean Italy, Austria and Australia. 79 Darling St,views. The Wine Library, an offshoot of Balmain East; phone (02) 9555 9764.Buzo in Woollahra, debuted on OxfordSt, and the third restaurant in the Fratelli Eastern European restaurants are thin on theParadiso mini-chain is slated for a pre- ground outside their countries of origin. ButEaster opening in William St in Paddington. with more and more Polish migrants moving toOne of my favourite repeat visit restaurants, Sydney, it was only a matter of time before the cuisine of Warsaw and surrounds carved out athough, is Dukes Lane, just a stroll from small dining niche in the city. And Na Zdrowie dishes like king prawns wrapped in pancettathe East Balmain ferry wharf. is tiny - seating only about 30 diners in the sort with farro sauce, chicken breast rolls with of cosy boite common in the cobbled streets semi-dried tomatoes and goat cheese and Leah Russo, who was responsible for of Krakow. Open for just over two years, it beef tenderloin carpaccio with a blackthe decor at Justin North’s Becasse, also has been hauling in homesick expats and pepper crust and truffle oil. The oval bar is aclaims credit for the interior of Dukes Lane. the locals from day one. Na Zdrowie means destination in itself for the finest Italian wines,The name is a makeover, too. The restaurant “to your health” but there’s nary a salad aperitivi, digestivi and authentic cocktailshoused in the heritage cottage won a loyal in sight. Rib-sticking fare from barszcz (a such as a Venetian Bellini. 163 Norton St,clientele under the name Sojourn. But have beetroot soup similar to Russia’s borscht) Leichhardt; phone (02) 9564 0003.no fear because the same chefs – ex-Banc leads into a menu thick with schnitzels andgraduate Paul Camilleri and wife Kim the Polish version of Germany’s kohlrouladen Only the view of Sydney Harbour through- are still dishing up the same or better top- - seasoned mince cooked in cabbage leaves. the outsized glass windows intrudes intoquality, seasonal food. The twice-cooked Servings are big so be sure to try the line- the total French fantasy that is the Baroquegruyere and Roquefort souffle with olive Bistro Patisserie. Chef Yann Fontaine serves up the sort of traditional nosh that is even enjoying a revival in France itself. Consider: goat cheese ‘cigar’ with sweet and sour tomatoes and cucumber. or snail and asparagus salad with baby spinach and orange segments to start. My favourites? Confit of lamb shoulder, white bean puree and green beans and butcher’s cut of beef, fries and eschallot juice. Simple mais magnifique - a description that also fits the adjoining wine bar and patisserie. 88 George St, The Rocks; phone (02) 9241 4811. Above: Baroque Bistro Patisserie, with its goat’s cheese cigar entree and tasting plate. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 57

perthgrapevineROD PROPERJOHNThe epicentre of Perth’s CBD has been in Nedlands to head up the kitchen.jolted to life in the past few months by “The food is neither vegetarian nor athe opening of three smart drinking and stereotyped style,” he says. “It’s sourcedeating venues all within a cork-popping locally where we can, is of the highestdistance of one another. One is slap- quality and prepared freshly and simply.”bang in your face on the Terrace and I particularly like the way the menuthe other two are an alley cat’s dream, identifies the actual farms and regionshidden down a quiet U-shaped lane off the tucker is from. Breakfasts averageHoward St. The newest of the three, out at a very reasonable $10, lunchGreenhouse, is attracting loads of ranges from $10 to $24 and evening eatsattention, because it’s right on the main are about $10 a small plate. The winethoroughfare of the city and is made list is brief but diversified, with someof strawberry plants - well, sort of. quirky labels by the glass, and then half-The walls are constructed of recycled bottle portions are served in a beaker. you may as well order a cocktail whilesteel and hay bales, with potted wild At 100 St Georges Tce, Greenhouse contemplating your choice of wine.strawberries encasing the outside in is a cool addition to downtown Perth.a drip-fed environment. Bay and kaffir Phone (08) 9481 8333. This bar, with lots of nooks and crannies,lime trees are planted alongside and a is down a lane in the basement of a 100-rooftop bar area is part of an intensively Tapas is a word that nowadays is as year-old heritage building. The decor andplanted herb and vegetable garden. All overworked as a cab driver on a Friday furnishings are a mix of quality traditionalthis is juxtaposed by the concrete, brick, night, but originally in Spain, tapas was a and contemporary. Leather Chesterfieldglass and bitumen of a desperately busy small portion of food placed strategically sofas, gilt-framed mirrors/prints andcommercial area. on top of a glass of sherry to keep the timber-panelled walls provide nostalgic vinegar flies from diving in and drowning glamour, and polished concrete and tiled Other sides of the green aspect are the themselves. Better for the consumer and floors add a whimsical modern practicality.furnishings and floor area. The chairs and the flies, don’t you think? It then evolved Those in charge, Ryan Gregory and Carlatables are made of recycled chipboard into tiny plates of food to accompany Arevalo, who just happens to be Spanish,and cut-up/welded road signs and the sherry and other beverages to soak are astounded by the popularity of theirfloor shows discarded plastic pallet crates up the alcohol consumed. Drinking is bar in the months it has been operating.fused in tarted-up concrete. Bottle coolers therefore number one in a tapas bar and It’s open Monday to Saturday, but thereare made from old gas bottles and the tucker is a distant second. Andaluz Bar are definitely no bookings because it’s amen’s rest area has a dozen or so rear- & Tapas is well aware of the provenance bar and not a restaurant. 21 Howard St,view car mirrors for the guys to check on of tapas, yet it is becoming as popular for Perth; phone (08) 9481 0092.their hair gel. I didn’t peek into the ladies’. its food as for its excellent array of drinks.The rubbish tips and car wreckers have How about seared scallops on pork cheek There’s a certain type that frequentsobviously been taking a hammering by confit with juicy muscatels and a sticky Helvetica (type - helvetica, geddit?). Thethe designer. The place is different, it has Pedro dressing; or Xoriguer gin-cured last of the new trio is a small neighbouringa clean, trendy industrial look with no frills ocean trout with blood orange jelly, herb bar of Andaluz, and stockbrokers, lawyersand the public loves it. salad and creme fraiche? And the range and other suits embrace the cosy place, of sherry, cava and other Iberian vinous especially very late in the working week, The food is in the hands of very youthful products will have you salivating, so and they are lovers of nostalgic cocktailsMatt Stone, who recently quit Pata Negra and expensive spirits (buy a rare bottle and it is reserved for you and available any time you drop in). Some imbibers simply need to shrink away from the commercial parade of St Georges Tce for a glass of vino or a quiet beer, so there’s a range of wines and boutique ales on hand. Hard to find, Helvetica is at the rear of 101 St Georges Tce, but you enter through a laneway off Howard St. Yes, snacks are served but it’s the booze and conviviality they come for. Phone (08) 9322 2008. Left & centre: Greenhouse exterior and interior. Right: Greenhouse chef Matt Stone.58 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELLast year started with the sound of and mulberries gives you a snapshot of his little brasserie was in need of a spruce-some much loved doors closing. Muse, dinner, while at lunch the menu is pared up. “I also felt the culinary landscape inin the heart of Hastings St at Noosa, back but still includes marron with a Brisbane was changing, leaning more toreluctantly shut up shop as the recession bourbon buerre blanc, carrot and ginger substantial, more casual dining with lesstook its toll, as did Rice Paddy on the noodle, lime and vanilla salt. starchiness,” says Simon, who tappedGold Coast, winner of the Pol Roger into Bar Alto chef Pablo Tordesillas’Wine List of the Year accolade, part of Underneath the dining room is Sub vast and very passionate arsenal ofthe annual Courier-Mail Food and Wine Urbane, an intimate and exquisitely pure Spanish food. The result sees theGuide awards. appointed private dining room with all previous site - restaurant upstairs, bar the technological bells and whistles like downstairs - reversed. Pier Nine was another departure, integrated sound systems and high-techmaking way for the now well established flat screens ideal for small corporate Tapas and wines by the glass are onAria Brisbane. And then the CBD’s small presentations. 181 Mary St, Brisbane; offer from 4pm at street level and youand eclectic Urbane boarded up the phone (07) 3229 2271. can expect a variety of Iberico jamonsdoors around the same time as Fortitude served simply with bread, stuffed piquilloValley’s Isis, both owner-operated, both The cafe next door has been taken over peppers and delicious ‘wrinkly potatoes’very successful and both much missed. and is now The Euro, a more casual with a trio of sauces. Downstairs isFortunately these two were closed only bistro rounding out the appeal of both now home to a modern restaurant withfor renovations, which took the best part venues. Lots of wood and a masculine a fabulous open kitchen designed soof the year. colour palate make a great backdrop to chefs can interact with customers, who the classic bistro menu, which is very can’t help but be drawn into the theatre ‘Worth waiting for’ is something of an large and features no fewer than 12 of the kitchen. The 40-page wine list is aunderstatement now, as Urbane has AACO Master Kobe wagyu and grass-fed beautifully constructed tome that leavesmorphed into three venues under the yearling steaks with varying ageing. no vinous stone unturned. Manager andone, much extended roof. The previous sommelier Matt Brookes guides youincarnation has reopened on the same It’s where to go for a quick bite and a through the labyrinth of bottles, somesite, though you’d hardly recognise it, glass of wine from the clipped list, or you from boutique producers, others wellsuch is the transformation from petite, can order from the larger cellar list from known and highly famed.poised dining room to architecturally next door. Upstairs and out the back issleek, seriously luxurious space. Chunks Guidance is also needed with the menu,of marble, acres of wood panelling The Laneway, a funky bar with a wicked which trawls around regional Spain,and padded tables create a warm and cocktail menu and great music played at forming a collection of robust, unctuousrefined space and the perfect backdrop a bearable level. Phone (07) 3229 3686. dishes all served with a contemporaryfor chef Kym Machin’s elegant dishes. edge and modern plating techniques.The menu is small and intricate, utilising Isis morphed into Ortiga in late 2009, Smaller starters like escabeche of quail,beautiful produce, the majority of which opening its now regional Spanish doors oysters wrapped in pigs’ trotters andis organic. In fact, Urbane is the first fully just days before Christmas, only to close ajo blanco with grapes and smoked eelcertified organic restaurant in the state. them again for the holidays. Simon Hill are stunning, but it’s the courses forWhite rabbit stuffed with chestnuts and has owned the multi-award-winning two - such as roasted shoulder of lambcherries, King George whiting with leek and much-loved fine diner, Isis, housed with potato and lemon puree, grilledand potato veloute and duck breast with behind a heritage-listed corner shopfront, sole basted in oil and cider and servedcompressed pineapple, basil seeds for the past 12 years. It became clear with garlic chips, and well-aged grilled to Simon, who also owns Bar Alto at the ribeye on the bone, served simply with Brisbane Powerhouse Arts Complex, that herbed potatoes and green salad - that have proved most popular to date. 446 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3852 1155. Stay tuned as more Spanish influence hits Brisbane - Peasant at The Barracks complex near Caxton St is scheduled to open in the first half of the year, as is Granada at West End, which will take on a Spanish/South American flavour. Left: Urbane/The Euro/The Laneway co-owners Andy Buchanan, Drew Patten and Kym Machin. Right: The Euro’s local seafood gently poached in a broth of tomato, chilli and basil. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 59

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINMoVida and MoVida Next Door, the - the paella de Catalunya with rabbit, saltalmost-impossible-to-get-into restaurants cod and artichokes is worth a try. Levelby Frank Camorra and his team, 1, 500 Bourke St, Melbourne (access viahave a new sibling, MoVida Aqui Lt Bourke St); phone (03) 9663 3038.and Terraza, in an unlikely location.Down in the corporate-office depths Melbourne Grapevine noted whenof 500 Bourke St in the city, Frank has chef Nicky Riemer took the reins of thecreated a big welcoming space which Melbourne Wine Room in St Kilda in 2009,is a complete turnaround from the two but it seems that being the executiveintimately cosy, dimly lit restaurants chef of one restaurant isn’t enoughdown cobblestoned Hosier Lane. This for the hard-working Nicky who, whilenew venture is all about light and space staying full-time in St Kilda, has taken(and a lot more seats), with the Terraza a small partnership and the executive chef role of Bosisto’s in Richmond.offering a breakfast menu through the He has joined partners Marcus Ward St in the city, has opened a secondweek, including bocadillos (small rolls and Tom Rattigan (who together own place, also in the CBD, called Izakayafilled with jamon and tomato), toast the CBD bars New Gold Mountain and Den. The word Izakaya (pronounced eez-with Cantabrian sardines and churros Double Happiness) to give new energy za-KIY-ya) is, in simple terms, a place(Spanish doughnuts with chocolate to the menu and allow it to comfortably where people meet to have a beer ordipping sauce). Lunch is usually a small support the clever wine and drinks list. sake and graze over dishes of food thatmenu of four or so dishes that change Termed a ‘liquor bar’, Bosisto’s has a are perfect for sharing. It’s a little like thedaily in this covered outdoor setting. large, interesting selection of spirits as Japanese version of an Australian pub, well as wines, and Nicky’s menu focuses but to treat this place like a pub would be The terrace leads to MoVida Aqui, a on dishes to share as well as individual doing it a disservice; it is absolutely itslarge room where bright yellows and plates. She has developed about eight own entity. The decor is minimal: a long,plastic milk crates decorate the walls to 10 small plates with dishes like school thin room in the basement of The Heroand simple timbers dress tables finished prawn frites with paprika aioli, and duck apartment building houses the sharpwith cloth napkins and good glassware. and rabbit rillettes, and a handful of main operation. Dark wooden stools and highThe menu in the restaurant is classic courses such as blue eye trevalla with benches jut out of one wall, balancingCamorra, structured around tapas - think prawn and potato salad or parmesan and out the other side of the room, which isegg and potato tortilla and the MoVida lemon-crumbed chicken schnitzel. There a dramatic length of wooden bar behindsignature of an anchovy fillet on a is a broad salumi section, with jamon, which all the magic happens - herecrouton with smoked tomato sorbet - and proscuitto di Parma and Australian are the bar, the kitchen and the coffeeraciones (larger dishes) like salt cod in bresaola, and three mornings a week siphons. The food has the disciplinedsaffron batter with piquillo peppers. The they do breakfast and brunch, which aesthetic of Japanese cuisine but theremenu is then split into further sections works well in its Bridge Rd location to is a homey feeling to its presentationlike A la Plancha (cooked on a flat grill) sate shoppers seeking some quality on wooden boards and bowls, and theand A la Parilla (cooked on a char-grill) respite. 318 Bridge Rd, Richmond; flavours are there to match the extensiveand with a bigger kitchen there’s room phone (03) 9428 6888. sake and beer selection (there’s a goodto comfortably fit paella pans, so here wine choice too). Try the fresh salmonis the perfect opportunity to tuck into Simon Denton, co-owner of the roll with pickled kombu or the potatoFrank’s versions of this Spanish classic successful Verge Restaurant on Spring croquettes with wasabi cream. Dishes from the char-grill produce fresh clean flavours: there’s ocean trout, marinated octopus or jumbo quail. Simon Denton has joined forces with Miyuki Nakahara and Takashi Omi and the three of them have recruited staff from Japan who understand the Izakaya culture and execute it in an easy, approachable way. Basement, 114 Russell St, City; phone (03) 9654 2977. Above: MoVida Aqui and Terraza.60 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

Attain Asian Recognition For International Winesat the WSA Wine Challenge 2010Asia’s premier wine competition returns in April 2010 20 to 23 April 2010, presenting winning Cav. Subhash Arora, President of the Indian wines an exclusive chance for exposure to Wine Academy and one of the judges at thousands of potential wine buyers from WSA Wine Challenge 2010 further explains, Asia’s food and hospitality industry. “Participants of the WSA Wine Challenge can be assured of the very high standard 2010 marks new beginnings for the event. of professional judging and winning In addition to a new name, the WSA Wine wines will receive very valuable industry Challenge will feature a carefully selected recognition. The sampling is done totally team of judges, including two Masters of blind and judges are given the opportunity Wine, who are influential professionals to deliberate after each individual scoring from the Asian wine industry. Being wine and come to a unanimous decision. connoisseurs, sommeliers, restaurateurs, In cases where opinions differ greatly, wine procurers and merchants, these industry the judges on the other panels are brought veterans are the choice professionals to in to ensure every entry gets a fair shake discern the wine entries for Asia’s palate. and an objective score.”Singapore – Come April 2010, Singapore will The judging panel will be led by Chief Asia’s wine consumption has risenwitness hundreds of wines from across the Judge, Mr. Joel Payne, President of FIJEV sharply in recent years, and the trendglobe enter its shores, when the 4th edition (International Federation of Wine and looks set to flourish. Consumption ofof the WSA Wine Challenge kicks off to a Spirits Journalists and Writers) since 2008. fine wines is growing as consumersspirited battle as international wines vie for Mr. Payne, an expatriate American living in become increasingly knowledgeable andgreater recognition and acceptance in the Germany since 1983, is highly respected sophisticated, resulting in an even deeperexpanding Asian wine market. for his judging of wines, having covered pool of wine buyers from this region. By Germany’s 2006, 2005 and 2004 vintages in offering widespread exposure to potentialThe WSA Wine Challenge 2010 (formerly the International Wine Challenge (IWC). Asian buyers and the exclusive opportunityknown as the Wine&SpiritsAsia Challenge), for greater industry acknowledgment, theseeks to promote knowledge, prestige and “Although I have been asked to chair this WSA Wine Challenge is undoubtedly thevalue of world-class wines to Asia. The competition, it has been important for me choice platform for global wines to speakcompetition will feature the participation of that the panels at the Singapore Wine out and gain a foothold into Asia.wineries, winemakers, wine importers and Challenge be dominated by the finesttraders from all over the world. Submissions palates of Asia. Just as the British, Italianwill be judged by country, region and and American authorities often disagreevarietal. Special awards will be bestowed upon what is a great Saint Emilion, Ito the Best Red, Best White, Best Sparkling would like to see to see the same debateand Best Wine of Challenge. emerge with Japanese, Chinese and Indian judges on what each expects from anThe event is now open for entries! Australian Shiraz. At the end, the commonInterested parties can download the detailed denominator should provide an Asian pointinstructions to enter at www.winespiritsasia. of view,” said Mr. Payne.com. The deadline for entry is 15 March2010, and all entry wines must be shipped tothe competition venue by 6 April 2010. Thewines will be judged from 17 to 19 April 2010at the Raffles Town Club, and final resultswill be announced on 19 April 2009.The WSA Wine Challenge was formed A part ofas a part of WSA (Wine&SpiritsAsia), aninternational trade event dedicated to wineand spirits products and services. Theexhibition serves as a platform to connectwine and spirits buyers from Asia withleading international sellers. Winning wineswill be prominently displayed and openedfor tasting at the WSA2010 show floor from

winewords J A C O B S T E I NSKYE MURTAGHFOR WINEMAKER Jacob Stein there What was the most useful lesson you educational, a great view, great people andreally is no place like home. In January learnt during your years as a travelling the wines were excellent.last year, after spending several years winemaker?overseas developing his craft, Jacob The wineries and winemakers who What’s the most memorable bottle ofreturned home to his birthplace of were organised and pro-active in their wine you’ve ever consumed?Mudgee to take over the mantle of winemaking always seemed to be a step The most memorable bottle of wine I havewinemaker at his family’s business ahead of the rest. I’ve learnt it’s better shared was before harvest in Germany- Robert Stein Winery. Jacob is the to find any issues in wines before they during the Australia vs Japan Worldgrandson of the vineyard’s founder and become problems. Cup soccer match of 2006. An oldnamesake, Robert ‘Bob’ Stein. Thirty Rheingau winemaker named Heinzfour years ago, Bob purchased 75 What can young winemakers like you Koch, who spoke no English, broughtacres at the vineyard’s current location teach some of the more established from his cellar a bottle of 1937 Erbacherand started planting shiraz rootlings veterans in the industry? Steinmorgen Riesling Spatlese from- later adding subsequent acreages of Innovation and variation of styles is a Pfarrgut Erbach Rheingau. He insistedchardonnay, rhine riesling, traminer, starting point. Although we are quite I open it and pour it out to the othersemillon, cabernet sauvignon and black lucky in Australia to have some veterans screaming Germans. The wine was pastmuscat. Bob’s legacy continued with his who are apt to change and innovate, try its best, but the Socceroos won 3-1,son Andrew - who is now thrilled to have telling an old Italian winemaker in the hills and I have the empty bottle in my cellar.the third generation on-site to help steer they should be washing their barrels afterthe vineyard into the future and build every wine movement! Where’s the most unusual place you’veon the region’s winemaking reputation. ever consumed wine?While his travels took him to some exotic What still makes the cellar door In the car park of the sunset viewinglocales - including the Rheingau and ‘experience’ memorable for you and area of Ayers Rock with a bottle ofRheinhessen regions in Germany as well where is your favourite cellar door in Wovenfield Ferguson Valley Shirazas Italy and Canada - right now, Mudgee the world? Viognier, sitting on the red dusty bonnetis exactly where Jacob wants to be. I always prefer to visit small family-owned of my Land-Cruiser. wineries because of the ‘real’ experienceWhat features do you feel most define of speaking to someone in the family What’s your favourite wine accessory?Mudgee as a winemaking region? with dirty hands. My favourite cellar It would have to be my Riedel magnumMudgee has always had an image of making door was in Canada - at Thirty Bench decanter and funnel strainer. They’ve beenbig-bodied reds. However, our ability to Winery in Beamsville, Ontario. It was real, working overtime lately.produce a wide range of varieties, and dothem well, is I believe the way of the future.We are one of Australia’s oldest wine townswith close to 100 per cent family owned andrun wineries and a growing number of localsmall and specialised food producers (ofwhich I am one). With an even balance ofindustry veterans, we also have a bunch ofyoung bloods doing great things in Mudgee.I believe they will be seen as a regional forcenot too far down the track.What’s the best part about working in afamily business - and the hardest?The best is the honour of having a greattradition in wine and having your family nameon the label. Being the third generation isalso a great achievement for a small familywinery. The hardest part is the work is neverending, particularly during vintage when,as well as our own wine, we make wine formany Mudgee vineyards.62 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

What do you think are the biggest One Goodchallenges facing Australian winemakers shot is allacross the next ten years?The increased competition from lower-cost it takes!rivals such as Chile and Argentina. They aremaking considerably good wines for good A bad bottle shot can undo all the good workprices. How we combat this is a big issue. The that goes into the passionate making andother challenge is to reverse Australia’s slump branding of a bottle of wine.in wine export quantity and price per litre. Therise of lower-cost wines within Australia is also At Wellcom, we have provenan issue facing small to medium-sized wineries. expertise to shoot your wine andThe fluctuating and rising Australian dollar also deliver premium imagery that willhas an effect on Australia’s export sales. suit all applications.Do you have a soft spot for anyparticular variety? Our highly skilled and experiencedRiesling, of course, because of my family’s photographers and graphicimportant involvement in supervising theearly vineyard of Camden Park. In 1838, artists use only state-of-the-artJohann Stein - my great-great-great- digital technology to ensure thatgrandfather - brought out from Germany thefirst cuttings of Rhine riesling to survive in your wines get our best shot.Australia. Riesling is the queen of grapes, isgrown all over the world, and can be made Call us to ensure that thein such a wide range of styles. combined efforts ofHow would you describe your own your team, from viticulturistspersonal wine collection? to winemakers to marketersGoing through university I amassed acollection of big reds from down south - huge are not shot to pieces bytannins and oak. Now I am more ‘refined’, and below average imagery.so are my wines. A big collection of riesling, As we say, all it takes ismainly from Germany and Australia. one top shot!Do you spend much time thinking So shoot us an email,about what food and wines make the or dial in our phone number.best combinations?The practice of matching wine and food At Wellcom we alsopresents great challenges and set rules specialise in the productionfor some. However, I like to keep it simple,and believe it is subject to individual taste, of a wide range ofpreference and whim, so it is only on rare communication andoccasions that the combination will ‘ring promotional mediaeveryone’s bells’ - although our 2009 including graphic design,riesling was a hit at Christmas with all the catalogues, banners,cooked seafood! annual reports, posters, newsletters, brochures,What did you ring in the New Year with? TVC production andWe splurged this year and had a ’96 PolRoger Cuvee Winston Churchill, a 2006 corporate videos.Domaine Francois Bertheau ‘Assemblage’Chambolle-Musigny and a few young 43 Fullarton Road, Kent Town SA. 5067bottles of Aussie riesling. phone +61 8 8362 1077 fax +61 8 8363 2488 [email protected] March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 63 Wellcom_90x270.indd 1 16/11/09 2:29:58 PM

bookwormsMIKE JAENSCHJIM MURRAY’S WHISKY RAY JORDAN’S 2010 THE AUSTRALIAN B&BBIBLE 2010 WA WINE GUIDE BOOK 2010Published by Dram Good Books Published by West Australian Publishers Edited by Carl SouthernRRP $35 RRP $19.95 Published by Inn Australia(available through www.theoddwhiskycoy. RRP $19.95com.au; (08) 8365 4722) With the knowledge generated in three decades of wine writing, Ray Jordan With b&b accommodation capturing aScotch purists might well rise up in is impeccably qualified to present a growing share of the holiday and getawayrighteous indignation, but the redoubtable showcase of the best that his home state market, the value of a guide like this willMr Murray’s whisky of the year for 2010 is has to offer. And this eighth edition of his continue to appreciate. In two decadesnot from Scotland. Nae. It’s a Sazerac 18- guide continues the evolution. since the first edition was published, theyear-old rye whisky from the US, deemed to authors have had ample opportunity to fine-be the very finest whisky tasted from around As always, it’s packed with easily tune their product - and it shows.the world for this seventh edition. absorbed and attractively presented information and colour pictures as it winds While it could be argued that the descriptions Scotchophiles can take some consolation through WA’s nine wine regions, which are and virtues of the 300 featured cottages,in having the Ardbeg Supernova rated the covered in separate sections with wineries farmstays, apartments and other formssecond finest whisky in the world, but then in alphabetical order and their best wines of accommodation aren’t independentin third place comes a drop from what rated and described. In all, Jordan gives assessments because they’ve been writtenseems a most unlikely source - India, with his stamp of approval to 800 wines, by the hosts themselves, there’s also amplethe Amrut Fusion. Seems the colonial era on from the elite to the more affordable. He evidence that these are quality establishments.the subcontinent left somewhat of a legacy dismisses as “phooey” the contention that AAA star ratings are just one of thesein the distilling area. WA wine is expensive, although those indications, as are the colour photographs. accustomed to buying eastern states It’s detail like this that makes Murray’s wines might beg to differ. With entries classified by regions and inheroic labour of love - 3850 whiskies tasted alphabetical order of town/city, it’s easyand rated, including 900 newcomers to the Early in his book, before announcing his to find the place to suit your needs for anmarket - such a comprehensive gospel, even ‘Best of the West’ awards for winemakers/ overnight, weekend or longer stay withif its presentation, in 360 pages of unrelieved producers and wines overall and varietal, the help of symbols denoting whether thesmall type, is about as visually stimulating Jordan presents a food/wine matching property has amenities such as a swimmingas that better-known Bible. There’s even a section with a clever innovation: apart pool, winery, restaurant, outstanding gardenwee element of fire and brimstone in chapter from a basic list there are four recipes or eco-tourism attractions, or is pet-friendly.headings such as ‘Bible Thumping - Bring from leading WA chefs, each with aEvery Dram into Judgment’. recommended wine. And while there are those 300 b&bs with full-page or half-page spreads, the authors Murray’s attention to detail is monumental There’s also a useful calendar of have included another 700 recommendedas he uses wry prose to dissect every wine-related events, pages of tear-out properties. All are listed in sections at thedrop from countries predictable and vouchers for discounts on food, wine and end of each chapter, with addresses andunpredictable, including the Antipodes. His entertainment, and a bonus winery map in contact details, and all can be viewed ontarget market may be mainly specialists, its own clear plastic pouch. All in all, a big the website www.BBBook.com.aubut he hits it unerringly. Praise be. package at a bargain price. If you’re a Kiwi or heading across the Tasman, there’s a New Zealand edition too.64 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

the wine & spirit insiderMarch/April 2010 Issue 110 FREE COPYA part of Wine & Spirits Asia is part of new releasesin this issue and Top 40 Best Wine Buys Under $20 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

march/april new releases251 TASTED Plantagenet Hazard Deviation Road129 RECOMMENDED Hill Western Australia Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon BlancQuite a few surprises here, with the riesling class being the most consistent, Semillon 2009 HHHH 2009 HHHalong with a pocket of merlots. Each class had its winner and also-rans. Typically, Lovely blend with fresh Middle of the road stylethose wineries with good, well-ripened fruit and winemaking attention to detail fruit salad aromas with pleasing minerallywere the ones in the forefront. showing green pea lift. characters and nice Excellent palate - very zippy herbal notes. $18sparkling St Aidan Geographe Elderton Barossa long and lingering, with Sparkling Chardonnay Sparkling Shiraz delightful acid spice. Howard Park16 TASTED 2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHH “A steal for this price,” Western Australia8 RECOMMENDED Fresh citrus nose with Interesting sweaty/cigar said one judge. $13 Sauvignon Blanc delicate floral lift. Good box aromas and great Ta-Ku Marlborough 2008 HHHThese bubbles cover all depth of yeasty flavours concentration of dark, Sauvignon Blanc Sweaty, pungent bouquet;the price points. The best with firm acid backbone. fleshy fruit flavours. 2009 HHHH attractive vegetal lift.offered ‘crowd pleasing’ Nice bubbly intensity. $25 A balanced wine. $50 Varietally extreme Excellent long, varietallydrinks rather than wines Beelgara Classic - reeks of green peas expressive palate. $25of great standing. Others Bubbly NV HHH Oakvale Sparkling and tomato busheswere either oxidised or Soft, supple mousse with Chardonnay with mouth-puckering pinot gris/grigiotired or out of balance, touch of creamy lees. 2007 HHH sweaty/herbal flavours.with sugar replacing true Creamy mouthfeel; a Slight Vegemite-like Definitely one for the 8 TASTEDfruit characters. touch of sweetness. A development on the nose, true sauvignon blanc 4 RECOMMENDED real crowd-pleaser. $14.95 and very flavoursome dry enthusiast. $15.99 Le Beau South palate. At its peak. $29 Ant Moore The judges saw some Australian Cuvee Marlborough good examples of Rose NV HHH sauvignon blanc Sauvignon Blanc the variety, with a Simple cherry aromas with & blends 2009 HHHH diverse group of pinot minty notes, and attractive Excellent lift of varietal gris but quite true-to- strawberry/apple/cashew 22 TASTED fruit on the nose and style pinot grigios. flavours. $20 7 RECOMMENDED great zesty, citrusy varietal expression on Frog Rock Mudgee Moppity Vineyards The best here were the beautifully balanced Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Reserve Hilltops varietally expressive and palate. Lovely weight Fruity/floral bouquet and Sparkling Shiraz clean and represented the and feel, with firm acid simple citrusy flavours NV HHH entire gamut of flavours spine. $21.99 with some strawberry- Interesting combination available for this variety. Catalina Sounds like notes. $18 of sweet/sour cherry However, there were also Marlborough characters here with too many acid-water or Sauvignon Blanc Taylors Adelaide attractive acidity and prematurely developed 2009 HHH1/2 Hills Clare Valley balancing oak. $49.95 wines. These need to be Classic, varietally Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Moppity Vineyards fresh and lively. correct, tinned pea Lovely musky, aromatic Argo Single and asparagus style. nose and delicate citrusGracebrook Vineyards Vineyard Hilltops Very drinkable. Lovely and straw palate; quiteKing Valley Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot weight and mouthfeel. dry. $18White NV HHH1/2 Noir 2009 HHH Firm acidity. $22Rich, old-fashioned ‘Friendly’ fruity Aldi Stores Ashburn Ant Moorestyle with complex fragrances. Simple Adelaide Hills Marlborough Pinottoasty/leesy aromas and jubey-sweet palate with Sauvignon Blanc Gris 2009 HHHfull-bodied palate - rich, crisp acid spine. Another 2009 HHH Sweaty tropical characterscomplex and long. Good popular style. $19.95 Gooseberry and rise out the glass andlinear acid flavours. $18 capsicums on the nose green apples and pears fill and surprisingly drying the mouth. $21.99 varietal flavours. Good commercial wine. $12.9966 The Wine & Spirit Insider

wine & spirit insider tasting new releasesDeviation Road Fox Gordon Abby K1 by Geoff Hardy Rhythm Stick Wines Glendalough EstateAdelaide Hills Pinot Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Arneis Red Robin Clare Clare Valley RieslingGris 2009 HHH Viognier 2009 HHHH 2009 HHHH Valley Riesling 2009 HHHHCrisp aperitif style with Some nice apricot Tropical bouquet with 2009 HHHH1/2 Crisp and refreshingaromatic floral nose and characters on the nose subtle spicy notes. Quite a minerally nose, wine brimming overcitrusy palate with an and intense stone-fruit Crisp, lively palate has with lifted lemon zest with lemon sherbetastringent finish. $23 - particularly apricot green honeydew melon aromas showing a floral characters and delicate - flavours. Viscous flavours and a lovely long, edge. Lovely long citrus jasmine notes. Plenty ofother white mouthfeel and warming lingering aftertaste. $20 flavours with restrained acidity to ensure a longvarietals & blends alcohol. $19.95 Laurance of floral characters on a life. $17.90 Madeleines Nangkita Margaret River palate that’s crisp and12 TASTED Single Vineyard White 2009 HHH1/2 clean. $14 Sevenhill Inigo7 RECOMMENDED Southern Fleurieu Herbal nose with grassy Clare Valley RieslingGood class of interesting Gewurztraminer edge. Very long, tightand unusual varieties; 2009 HHHH palate with lovely zingy,some with a lot of Spicy green lychees on grassy/appley flavours.elegance and some the nose, with a distinct Should age very well. $30with a lot of flavour. floral lift. Some citrus Muster Wine Co“Well worth trying flavours mixed with floral Costa Del Sansomething different,” notes and with a nice Vincenzo Adelaideagreed the judges. spicy mid-palate and a Vermentino clean, crisp finish. $14.90 2009 HHHTrentham Estate Flowery bouquet withViognier 2009 HHHH spicy intensity, andLifted honeysuckle crisp, elegant palatearomas and persistent with a zesty finish. $20honeysuckle flavours Amarok Margaretwith a grassy, ginger- River Chenin Blanclike note and a hint of 2009 HHHfruit sweetness on the Some honeysuckle onfinish. $16 the nose, with apple and gooseberry flavours. Well- made easy drinker. $17.99 riesling 2009 HHH1/2 Smells like kaffir limes 12 TASTED and has attractive dry 10 RECOMMENDED white flavours with a lingering aftertaste. Great food wine. 3-5 $19 “Drink more riesling,” said one judge. Very Glenholme strong class, with the Vineyards Blesing’s ‘09s performing very Garden Southern well. “These are more Flinders Ranges interesting drinks than Riesling 2009 HHH sauvignon blancs, Pleasant, fruit-driven with more interest and aromas with some flavour,” he added. attractive minerally citrus The ‘08s showed how flavours. 3-5 $18 well this variety ages. Moppity Vineyards Taylors Promised Argo Single Land South Vineyard Hilltops Australia Riesling Riesling 2009 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2 Nose a bit like Delightful wine with Howard Park Western Bickford’s lime cordial, Australia Riesling with similar characters ‘loud’, flowery, citrus 2008 HHHH1/2 along the length of the palate. $19.95 sherbet-like aromas and Lovely soft floral Tim McNeil Wines very, very long, intense Clare Valley Riesling and powerful perfumed and citrus blossom 2009 HHH bouquet with nice aged Lovely lift of orange palate with spicy citrus characters developing. blossoms on the nose, flavours. Very pure, very with similar characters on nice. Good cellaring Crisp and lively in the long, crisp palate. $20 the mouth, with a potential. 5+ $13 combination of dry lemon and apple skin flavours. 5+ $25 The Wine & Spirit Insider 67

wine & spirit insider tasting new releases Chateau Tanunda The Thomson Estate McGuigan The Watershed Shades Chateau Old Vine Clare Valley Shortlist Adelaide Margaret River Rose Barossa Semillon Semillon Sauvignon Hills Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHHH Blanc 2009 HHH 2009 HHH Very robust style that’s Spicy nose with layers of Interesting aromas Another old- big on fruit, big on acid melon and lemon zest. of apricot cordial and fashioned style. “Oak and big on sweet. Great Lively palate with lovely gooseberries, which enthusiasts will love it,” colour. A yardstick for depth of melon, citrus follow through to the said one judge. the style. $16.95 and gooseberry flavours palate. $20 Nice aperitif style. $25 Barossa Valley and hints of green Estate Entourage capsicum. 3-5 $18 Bimbadgen Estate Bullock Flat Cellar Reserve Hunter Valley Ballarat Chardonnay Barossa Valley Rose Taylors Promised Semillon 2008 HHH 2008 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 Land South Grassy, herbal nose Buttery nose with a Lovely deep pink hues, Australia Semillon and very crisp, lively melon lift. Reasonably nice spritzig notes, lively Sauvignon Blanc acid palate with some oaky palate with and loaded with berry 2009 HHH1/2 herbaceousness. $20 savoury/melon fruit flavours. “A big hit for Floral, tropical notes to underneath. $16.95 the sweet-toothed.” $26 the nose, also has hints chardonnay of herbs. Sweet, juicy, rose Karatta Frog fruity palate with good 13 TASTED Island Selection flavour length. $13 4 RECOMMENDED 11 TASTED Rose 2009 HHH 3 RECOMMENDED Smells of cherries withJamabro Wines The Growers’ Not a lot of flavour Some great vibrant pink rich candied notes, andAcappella Single Peppermint Grove showing here, which is colours, which is the bright strawberry andVineyard Barossa Western Australia a surprise given that it attraction of the style. cream flavours. EasyValley Riesling Semillon Sauvignon is a variety that normally “A touch of sugar is style. $162009 HHH Blanc 2008 HHH1/2 does well in a good okay here as long as itRipe, lively, lime zest Grassy/herbal aromas winemaker’s hands. is matched with crisp,nose with hints of and citrus and “If you don’t love it, it fresh fruit and acidity,”blossoms - characters gooseberry flavours lifted won’t love you back,” said the judges.echoed on the zesty, by fresh, lively acidity. suggested one judge.acidic palate. $15 Take it to lunch! $16 Glenholme Forester EstateRhythm Stick Wines Vineyards Blesing’s Margaret RiverRed Robin Reserve Garden Southern ChardonnayClare Valley Riesling Flinders Ranges 2008 HHHH2009 HHH Semillon 2009 HHH Beautifully integratedCrisp and flavoursome, Stewed melon aromas chardonnay; lovely spicywith plenty of limes and with herbal notes, and nose and crisp varietalapples. Needs time to flavours of melon pulp fruit flavours with ‘real’settle. 3-5 $16 and citrus. $18 oak to balance. Very well made, old-fashioned stylesemillon & blends Logan Apple Tree for the enthusiasts. $28 Flat Semillon12 TASTED Sauvignon Blanc Mandalay Road7 RECOMMENDED 2009 HHH Geographe Gooseberry and tropical ChardonnaySolid group tending to fruit nose and lots of 2009 HHHdry white rather than sweet, grassy flavours. Well-made chardonnayvarietal styles. Nicely Needs a picnic! $11 - simple style with fresh,lean and not alcoholic. crisp citrus characters and cleansing end. $16days 1 & 2-judges Peter Simic Rebecca Kennedy Simon Rowe Editor/publisher Winestate Senior winemaker at Buying and Magazine. More than 30 years’ Boar’s Rock for the past promotions manager experience in the wine industry. two years. Previously she for Sip ’n Save Formerly founding publisher of worked with Langhorne Cellars. Diploma of a US wine magazine, manager Creek and Norman Wine Marketing. of the SA Wine Information Wines. Associate judge Twelve years in the Bureau, and wine educator with at Adelaide and McLaren retail liquor industry, Regency College of TAFE in Vale wine shows and including managing SA. Peter is also a regular wine judge at the Riverland Parade Cellars in SA. commentator on national radio wine show. Has vintaged and television programs. in California.68 The Wine & Spirit Insider

wine & spirit insider tasting new releasespinot noir Clyde Park Reserve Taylors Promised Bannock Burn Land South13 TASTED Geelong Pinot Noir Australia Merlot8 RECOMMENDED 2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 Big lift of violets on Ripe plums merge withGeneral consensus the ripe strawberry chocolate aromas. Theof opinion from the nose. Lots of fragrant full-flavoured palatejudges was that this strawberry fruit and has barnyardy noteswas a surprisingly spicy oak flavours. and good acid/oakgood class. Some nice Ageing well. $49 integration. $13varietal character withappropriate tannin Taylors Adelaide Majella Coonawarralevels. These are more Hills Pinot Noir Merlot 2008 HHH1/2for drinking now and not 2009 HHH Lovely earthy aromasso much for ageing. Black wine - very with rhubarb characters. different style, with Palate a real fruit bomb lively purple fruits and - vibrant and long, with hints of violets and some dark notes. $28 chocolate. $18 K1 by Geoff Hardy Nanny Goat Ant Moore Central Blewitt Springs Adelaide Hills Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir Estate McLaren Vale Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 Otago Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Grenache 2008 HHHH Smells of mulberries and 2008 HHHH1/2 Smells of summer: Gamey, spicy varietal capsicum, with austere, Typical pinot nose - loads berry aromas and fresh, nose that lingers in the developing flavours of of rhubarb and spice Ribena-like flavours. Well- glass, with rich, ripe cranberries, spices and with lifted aromatics. balanced wine. $29.99 blackberry and rhubarb herbs. Grippy finish. $35 Restrained but very flavours filling the mouth flavoursome palate with MadFish Gold Turtle with flavour. Good Haan Barossa Valley nice level of herbal fruit Mount Barker Pinot astringent finish. $8.80 Merlot Cabernet characters. “A most Noir 2008 HHH Franc 2008 HHH enjoyable wine,” said Some jamminess on the merlot & blends Intense, plum-like aromas one judge. $32 nose, with cherry flavours with a smoky lift, and threaded with chocolate. 7 TASTED good length of prune-likeCrowded House De Bortoli Windy Earthy finish. $32 6 RECOMMENDED flavours. $19.95Nelson Marlborough Peak Victoria PinotPinot Noir Noir 2008 HHHH grenache Solid group - great Trentham Estate2008 HHHH1/2 Another beetroot for cabernet lovers Merlot 2007 HHHGreat berry and beetroot and rhubarb varietal 4 TASTED - with excellent Smoky/earthy bouquetvarietal style with loads with savoury/meaty 1 RECOMMENDED varietal characters. and well-balanced,of character. Hints of overtones and starting to spicy fruit palate withearthiness on the nose develop attractive aged Very small class with one Glenholme Vineyards more of the earthinessand lovely gamey notes characters. Cleansing good example! The others Blesing’s Garden showing. $16on the sour cherry acid finish. $14.90 were either too forward or Southern Flinderspalate. Balancing acidity Clyde Park Bannock too jammy and porty. Ranges Merlot other redcompletes a perfect Burn Geelong Pinot 2008 HHHH1/2 varietals & blendspicture! $20 Noir 2008 HHH1/2 Big, lifted, fruity bouquet Blackberry jam nose with spicy oak elements. 17 TASTED with a touch of mint Bold, jammy palate that 5 RECOMMENDED and soft and unctuous lingers on and shows in the mouth, with plenty of dark chocolate Amazing mixture of lovely integration of and boysenberry flavours varieties and blends flavours. $35 with cleansing tannins. tasted here. “Great to Quite complex. $20 see experimentation, but you still need good winemaking to get them through,” pointed out one judge.Stuart Bourne Chester OsbornWinery manager and Chief winemaker andwinemaker for Barossa viticulturalist for d’ArenbergValley Estate. Has 13 Wines. Winemakingyears’ winemaking experience in Europe; threeexperience. Associate years as associate judge atjudge at the Barossa the Adelaide Wine Show;wine shows. Vintages three years as chairmanin WA, Victoria and SA. of judges at the UK International Wine Challenge. The Wine & Spirit Insider 69

wine & spirit insider tasting new releases Chalk Hill McLaren Windows Estate Ross Hill Thomas Red Knot by Vale Sangiovese Margaret River Orange Cabernet Shingleback 2008 HHH Cabernet Merlot Sauvignon McLaren Vale Dense, slightly porty 2008 HHH 2008 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon characters on the nose, Lifted floral/violet Perfect integration of oak 2008 HHH with solid, stewed fruit bouquet and intense and fruit on the nose, Simple, youthful, fruit- flavours. Well made. $25 varietal flavours with creating mocha-like driven style with firm perfect balance of oak aromas. Lovely peppery acid spine and some Centennial Vineyards tannins. $22 palate with firm tannins clever use of oak. $14.95 Reserve Single Trentham Cabernet and fresh acidity. $25 Vineyard Bowral Sauvignon Merlot McGuigan Sangiovese 2008 HHH 2007 HHH Wise Eagle Bay The Shortlist Flavoursome wine with Described by one judge Margaret River Coonawarra sweet red berry fruit with as a “gentle creature” Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon lovely fresh ground black with a chocolaty nose and 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH pepper notes. $29.99 lovely fruity palate. $14 Loads of mocha oak well Steely nose; smells matched by plenty of medicinal, with the cabernet blends cabernet blackberry and plum fruit. medicinal characters sauvignon Lovely soft tannins and dominating the austere 10 TASTED 2009 - 2008 quite high in alcohol. $50 palate. 5+ $25 6 RECOMMENDED Quarisa Johnny QWild OatsTempranillo 16 TASTED South Australia cabernet2008 HHHH Solid class, with 8 RECOMMENDED Cabernet Sauvignon sauvignonFresh and spicy, people- cooler climate wines The wines that beat the 2008 HHH1/2 2007 & olderfriendly wine that one performing better, heat in ‘08 were fresh Tight, bright and fleshyjudge said would be showing nice acidity and and lively, while those wine with good level of 15 TASTED“great with food or tighter structure. that were affected varietal fruit and great 9 RECOMMENDEDwithout!” Sweet varietal had porty, dead fruit acid spine. Well-madefruits and silky tannins to Logan Orange characters. Overall, easy drinker. $11.99 Strong class, showingsupport. $18.99 Cabernet Merlot great to see oak levels Hay Shed Hill good use of classy oakTrentham Estate Petit 2007 HHHH balanced with appropriate Margaret River and good winemakingVerdot 2008 HHH1/2 Freshness, poise and fruit intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon skills. Great variety toSavoury style but there’s elegance. Lovely, tightly 2008 HHH1/2 show its character.a pretty floral character structured, tarry aromas Bullock Flat Ballarat Oaky aromas with agiving it a lift. Firm and superb balance of Cabernet Sauvignon spicy lift, and a balance Moppity Vineyardsacidity and plenty of oak. delicious minty 2008 HHHH of lively varietal fruit and Reserve HilltopsWell-made wine. $16 chocolate flavours. $25 Nice leathery notes to the oak flavours with a firm Cabernet Sauvignon stalky fruit nose. Mint and tannic spine. $25 2007 HHHHBuller Wine Club Tiger’s Tale Margaret ripe blackcurrant flavours Edwards Margaret Lots of raisin, coffee andCellar Door Release River Cabernet mingle with Bonox-like River Cabernet mocha aromas and lots ofSwan Hill Mourvedre Sauvignon Merlot aged characters. Easy Sauvignon punchy oak tannins on the2009 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 style. $16.95 2008 HHH1/2 palate, with well-retainedLovely lifted, savoury On the nose, tarry oak Dark and tannic wine stone-fruit flavours. “Wellaromas, and spicy and melds with spicy fruits. with a peppery lift to the thought out.” $49.95fresh in the mouth, with Ripe, lively and fresh nose and lovely cassissoft tannin support. $18 palate with scrumptious overtones on the attractive ‘red’ flavours. $18 palate. Warm end. $35 Sticks No 29 Yea Valley Cabernet Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Chocolaty nose with spicy/minty lift. Full- bodied palate loaded with tarry, earthy, black olive and spicy currant flavours! $35 Hay Shed Hill Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH Tarry aromas with licorice notes. Soft and fleshy in the mouth; intense dark fruit flavours. $2070 The Wine & Spirit Insider

wine & spirit insider tasting new releasesForester Estate Forester Estate Mandalay Road Bimbadgen EstateMargaret River Yelverton Reserve Western Australia MCA Art SeriesCabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Cabernet2007 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH SauvignonDark, lifted berry fruit nose 2005 HHH1/2 Nutty and spicy on the 2008 HHHH1/2with touches of mint and Well-aged, genuine nose, with excellent Interesting Ribena-likeherbs. Solid, inky fruit varietal that’s ready for length of lovely leafy aromas showing a mintycore with well-matched enjoying. Lovely dark herbal flavours. $16 lift. Palate firm and fleshyoak and firm tannins. fruits layered with tarry/ with a lovely blend of“A superb wine,” said oaky characters. $55 MadFish Gold Turtle brambly fruit, mentholone judge. $29 Brothers in Arms Margaret River and licorice flavours.Taylors St Andrews Formby & Adams Cabernet Sauvignon Supple tannins. Still aClare Valley Leading Horse 2007 HHH baby! 5+ $25Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek Lifted oaky/ripe fruit2005 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon aromas and lingering Alkoomi Frankland Saddler’s CreekLovely combination of 2007 HHH1/2 flavours with strong River Shiraz Viognier Wines Bluegrasstarry, leathery, black olive Rich concentration of peppery elements. $28 2008 HHHH1/2 The Blendand dark berry elements. dark fruit nicely layered Lovely drink described Shiraz CabernetDense, brooding nose with lovely chocolaty shiraz blends by one judge as a 2006 HHH1/2and a rich and well aged oak, firm tannins and “clever wine”. Lovely Big, old-fashioned stylepalate. $60 drying acidity. $18 13 TASTED aniseed and boysenberry that’s ageing well andDi Giorgio Grant Burge Corryton 7 RECOMMENDED fruit aromas and has a big, powerful hit ofFamily Lucindale Park Barossa flavours, with good oak tarry oak and cherry fruitLimestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon Another good class, with balance and a firm acid flavours. $30Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 HHH nice stone-fruit flavours spine. $20.362005 HHHH Well-balanced wine and some with pepper Water Wheel MemsieAustere style with lovely ageing nicely with good and spice on show. Shiraz Homestead Bendigolayers of cool climate fruit concentration, makes a great blender. Shiraz Malbecfruit, chewy tannins matching oak and solid Cabernet Sauvignonand refreshing acidity. acid. $40 2008 HHHReaching its peak but Ripe aromas; slightstill has freshness. savouriness. Fleshy in the mouth, with jammy 3-5 $20 sweet flavours. $14 wines of distinction “Peter, what’s the best wine you’ve ever made?” AND THE TRUE INNOVATOR’S ANSWER:- ‘I HAVEN’T MADE MY BEST WINE YET?” DISTRIBUTORS Melbourne - Westwood Wine Agencies Ph: 03 9686 9125 Tasmania - David Johnstone & Associates Ph: 03 6234 9999 Sydney - Australian Partners in Wine Ph: 02 96015896 To see full list of international distributors go to www.denniswines.com.au Cellar DoorKangarilla Road, McLaren Vale, follow the signs from Town Square. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Sat, Sun and Public Holidays 12noon-5pm phone (08) 8323 8665 fax (08) 8323 9121 email [email protected] website & orders www.denniswines.com.au The Wine & Spirit Insider 71

wine & spirit insider tasting new releasesAldi Stores SEA Heartland SouthShiraz Cabernet Australia Shiraz2009 HHH 2008 HHHForward fresh plum Nice plum and cassisaromas and bright green characters, withplum flavours. Balancing developing volatile aromasacid and tannins. $3.99 and balanced flavours. A keeper. 5+ $18Grant Burge DalyRoad Barossa Shiraz Moppity VineyardsMourvedre 2008 HHH Argo SingleClosed, steely aromas Vineyard Hilltopsand unusual spicy, Shiraz 2008 HHHRibena-like flavours with Elegant wine with nicelypowerful tannins. $22 integrated herbal/stone- fruits, oak and strongPreston Peak Single peppery notes. $19.95Vineyard SyrahMourvedre Viognier Rosedale Chook Harbord The Tendril Penny’s Hill Vinrock McLaren2008 HHH Shed Barossa Shiraz Barossa Shiraz Cracking Black Vale ShirazSmells of blackberries with 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHHhints of violets and spices. Lovely solid, sweet berry Rich, rounded, well- 2008 HHHH Firm, full-bodied wineSoft in the mouth, with fruits on nose and palate balanced style with Rich, developing plum with youthful tarry fruit.bold fruit flavours. $32 with chocolaty oak, butterscotch and mocha- and rhubarb aromas Needs more time to and well balanced by a like aromas and flavours with powerful oak and settle. $19.95shiraz 2008 powerful tannic spine. with unctuous varietal nice gamey characters Flavours linger long after fruit and lovely soft that all continue on to Water Wheel Bendigo26 TASTED the wine has gone. $10 tannins. $18 the palate. Big, bold, Shiraz 2008 HHH16 RECOMMENDED Thomson Estate Madeleines Willunga youthful wine. $22 Complex, well- Clare Valley Shiraz Single Vineyard Maxwell Silver structured wine withSolid result with a number 2008 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Hammer McLaren confectionery-sweetof groups: the pepper and Excellent depth of 2008 HHHH Vale Shiraz strawberry aromas andspice commercial styles, vibrant sweet stone- Big, full-bodied shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 flavours. $20the heavy, ripe, thick fruits with nice chocolaty chock-full of intense Brooding heavyweightand oily advanced styles, notes and lots of drying berry and oak-derived that needs time in the Grant Burgea heavily oaked group oak tannins. Quite a flavours with leathery cellar to settle and Miamba Barossaand the winemaking grippy, tannic finish. $20 complexity developing. develop. Plenty of Shiraz 2008 HHHmanufactured wines. Great depth and sweet fruit with licorice Young chocolaty/licorice/ structure. $24 notes. $19.95 blackberry wine thatForester Estate Home Shaw Vineyard needs lots more time toBlock Margaret River Estate Premium shine. $25Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Canberra ShirazGorgeous dark cherries, 2008 HHH1/2 Edwards Margaretplums and mulberry-like Blackberry aromas with River Shirazvarietal fruit seamlessly lavender-like nuances. 2008 HHHmatched by some vanillin Bitter-sweet chocolate Cassis and Ribenaoak. Rich, toasty oak and dark cherry flavours aromas and flavoursnose and elegant, well- with peppery notes. $22 with a fine green finish.balanced palate. $33 Taylors Promised Good acid and tannin Land South Australia levels. $30 Shiraz 2008 HHH star ratings  Sour cherries and plums shiraz on the nose. Sweet, 2007 & olderThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of intense berries in theexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. mouth, with zesty 18 TASTEDAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry acidity. $13 9 RECOMMENDEDprofessionals and are compared in peer Mandalay Roadclasses by three judges. Geographe Shiraz Mixed bag. There wasCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, 2008 HHH more oak use, witha major mail-order business. Elegant floral and lightly some showing age, butCD Cellar door price. spicy aromas and up- others were less herbalCDO Cellar door only. front berry flavours with than the ‘09s. SomeSO Sold out. grippy tannins. $15 great ‘06s but some$N/A Price not available at time of printing. poor ones too. Contact information pg 136. Recommended cellaring (years).72 The Wine & Spirit Insider

wine & spirit insider tasting new releases Boston Bay Shiraz Chalk Hill Tenafeate Creek 2006 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Small Batch Limited Earthy, stewed fruit 2007 HHH Release One aromas and long, juicy Crimson, almost black, Tree Hill VP 2004 palate loaded with ripe wine with lots of oak (375ml) HHH1/2 plum and mulberry-like and attractive spicy fruit Spicy leathery/raisined fruit with lovely spicy showing through. $25 aromas with fiery spirit. oak balance and grippy, Intensely rich and tannic finish. $24 MadFish Gold Turtle developing flavours with Vasse Felix Frankland River warming alcohol. $15 Margaret River Shiraz 2007 HHH St Aidan Cassie Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Minty stone-fruit aromas Geographe Moscato Big, bold, chocolaty/sour and grippy, tannic palate 2009 (500ml) HHH cherry style. Loads of oak with flavours of plums Musky, strawberry- on the nose and a jubey- and chocolate. $28 like aromas and fruity, sweet palate. Needs time confectionery-sweet in the cellar. $35 Grant Burge Barossa palate with balancing Forester Estate Meshach 2005 HHH acidity. $14 Margaret River Assertive, tannic wine Le Beau Frizz South Shiraz 2007 HHH with balance of blackberry Australian Frizzante Dense, brooding aromas and spice. Still needs more 2009 HHH with a touch of spice, time. 5+ $130 Smells of honeysuckle and loads of plum and and has a pleasant fizzy,Fox Creek Reserve Karatta 12 Mile peppery flavours $20 sweet white zesty-sweet palate. $20McLaren Vale Shiraz Vineyard Robe Shiraz McGuigan & fortified Vasse Felix Margaret2007 HHHH1/2 2006 HHHH1/2 Hand Made River Cane CutNicely ageing wine with Lovely bouquet - smells Langhorne Creek 7 TASTED Semillon 2009sweet mulberry fruit well of sweet red plums with Shiraz 2007 HHH 4 RECOMMENDED (375ml) HHHintegrated with cedary a nice spicy lift. Vibrant Mulberry and sweet oak Lifted apricot and pawoak. Grippy tannins, palate brimming over on the nose, with sweet Some good commercial paw-like bouquet andgood level of acid and a with ripe fruits and tarry, licorice and berry flavours. drinkers here across a intensely sweet tropicalvery long and lingering Bonox-like flavours. Astringent ending. $45 number of styles. flavours. $23finish. Years ahead of it. Assertive tannins and warming finish. $19 5+ $49.67 The Wine & Spirit Insider 73

TOP 40 Beelgara Classic McGuigan Frog Rock Mudgee Amarok Bubbly NV Discover Victoria Pinot Gris 2009 Margaret River Soft, supple mousse with Pinot Grigio 2009 Fruity/floral bouquet and Chenin Blanc 2009 touch of creamy lees. Refined, delicate simple citrusy flavours Some honeysuckle Creamy mouthfeel; a combo of mandarin with some strawberry- on the nose, with touch of sweetness. A and mixed peel aromas, like notes. $18 apple and gooseberry real crowd-pleaser. $14.95 and a refreshingly flavours. Well-made crisp, citrusy palate. easy drinker. $17.99 Excellent style. $15THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings.out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. Style tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such ascurrently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ shiraz/cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.74 The Wine & Spirit Insider

Fox Gordon Abby McGuigan Blue Pyrenees Jamabro Wines HardysAdelaide Hills Bin 8000 Barossa Sauvignon Acappella Single Nottage Hill SEAViognier 2009 Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Vineyard Barossa Chardonnay 2009Some nice apricot Blanc 2009 Savoury wine with a Valley Riesling 2009 Sweet and juicy fruitcharacters on the nose Lovely varietally lifted lovely complexity of Ripe, lively, lime zest aromas with a touchand intense stone-fruit nose and herbaceous tropical characters nose with hints of of spice. Some sharp- particularly apricot and gooseberry-like mixed with herbaceous blossoms - characters citrus persistence on the- flavours. Viscous palate. “A real surprise layers. $18 echoed on the zesty, palate. $11mouthfeel and warming packet,” said one acidic palate. $15alcohol. $19.95 judge. Fresh, lively and flavoursome. $12.99OTHER WHITE WINES Taltarni T Series Victoria Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 best buysTa-Ku Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Sweaty tropical notes on the nose. Bright and fresh 20less thanVarietally extreme - reeks of green peas and tomatobushes with mouth-puckering sweaty/herbal on the lovely varietal palate - very aromatic. A touch $flavours. Definitely one for the true sauvignon blancenthusiast. $15.99 warm. 5+ $15Plantagenet Hazard Hill Western Australia Sauvignon Blewitt Springs Estate Barossa Valley Riesling 2009Blanc Semillon 2009 Rose petals and honeysuckle on the nose. ExcellentLovely blend with fresh fruit salad aromas showing palate length, focused acidity and a sweet end. $8.80green pea lift. Excellent palate - very long andlingering, with delightful acid spice. “A steal for this Heggies Eden Valley Riesling 2009price,” said one judge. $13 Beautiful, power-packed, varietally pure riesling that has length, grace and poise. “It would be heavenly served with a bowl of chilli mussels,” decided one judge. $19.95 The Wine & Spirit Insider 75

TOP 40 d’Arenberg Arrowfield Estate Firestick Bethany Barossa The Olive Grove Sophie’s Bridge Hunter Valley Cabernet Franc McLaren Vale Chardonnay 2008 Chardonnay 2007 Rose 2009 Adelaide Hills Attractive fig, peach and Creamy style with a A serious, well-made Chardonnay 2008 cashew aromas and touch of gunsmoke wine with distinctive Toasty nose with light, fresh, balanced characters on the nose, floral characters mixed pleasant primary fruit fruit flavours. $12 and citrus fruit with nutty with almond characters highlights. Quite sweet notes on the palate. on the nose, and on the palate. $15 Long finish. $12.95 balance of acidity and fruit gives a crisp, fresh, fruity palate. $18.00TOP 40 Chateau Tanunda The Chateau Old Vine Barossa Lindemans Reserve Padthaway Chardonnay 2008 Semillon 2009 Soft fruit nose in the tropical spectrum, with a hint Lifted, aromatic bouquet - smells of roses and orange of oak in the background. $13.99 blossoms - and has almost pear-like flavours. $18 De Bortoli Montage Chardonnay Semillon 2009 Logan Apple Tree Flat Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Attractive peachy/citrus varietal fruit characters with Gooseberry and tropical fruit nose and lots of sweet, some butterscotch. Fresh acidity. $9.90 grassy flavours. Needs a picnic! $11 Angove Family Winemakers Long Row Taylors Promised Land South Australia Semillon Chardonnay 2008 Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Golden, oaky wine with intense tropical fruits and Floral, tropical notes to the nose, also has hints of herbs. long, crisp acid spine. Hot end. $9.99 Sweet, juicy, fruity palate with good flavour length. $13 Beelgara Estate Range Chardonnay 2009 Bigger style with nice blend of ripe tropical fruits and nutty oak. Easy drinking. $8.9576 The Wine & Spirit Insider

Wild Oats Trentham Estate Bullock Flat Water Wheel Neil Hahn YanyarrieTempranillo 2008 Petit Verdot 2008 Ballarat Cabernet Memsie Homestead Barossa Valley ShirazFresh and spicy, people- Savoury style but there’s Sauvignon 2008 Bendigo Shiraz Cabernet 2007friendly wine that one a pretty floral character Nice leathery notes Malbec Cabernet Wine still tight butjudge said would be, giving it a lift. Firm to the stalky fruit Sauvignon 2008 ageing gracefully. Plenty“great with food or acidity and plenty of oak. nose. Mint and ripe Ripe aromas; slight of solid dark fruit andwithout!” Sweet varietal Well-made wine. $16 blackcurrant flavours savouriness. Fleshy in oak held together by afruits and silky tannins to mingle with Bonox-like the mouth, with jammy firm acid spine. $17.95support. $18.99 aged characters. Easy sweet flavours. $14 style. $16.95OTHER RED WINES Trentham Estate Merlot 2007 best buys Smoky/earthy bouquet and well-balanced, spicy fruitKurtz Family Vineyards Seven Sleepers Barossa palate with more of the earthiness showing. $16 20less thanValley Red Blend 2007Lifted, aromatic, brambly bouquet and pleasant Taylors Promised Land South Australia Merlot 2008 $sweet red berry fruit palate. Very European-like. $16 Ripe plums merge with chocolate aromas. The full-flavoured palate has barnyardy notes and goodYalumba Bush Vine Barossa Grenache 2008 acid/oak integration. $13Lifted nose with aromas of rose petals and sweet redberries. Palate has plenty of juicy fruit with good De Bortoli Windy Peak Victoria Pinot Noir 2008acid/tannin balance. $18.95 Another beetroot and rhubarb varietal with savoury/ meaty overtones and starting to develop attractiveStanley Lambert Tempt Me Individual Vineyard aged characters. Cleansing acid finish. $14.90Barossa Valley Tempranillo 2008Very food-friendly barnyardy/earthy style with lots ofoak and gentle tannins. $18 The Wine & Spirit Insider 77

TOP 40best buys Peter Lehmann Art Schutz Barossa Haan Barossa Valleyless than Series Barossa Shiraz Two of a Kind Shiraz Shiraz Cabernet Grenache 2008 Cabernet 2007 Sauvignon 200820$ Earthy nose - slight Enticing violet-like Earthy tobacco barnyard notes - and aromas lift off the nose. characters on the nose grippy, tannic palate Soft in the mouth, with and pleasant dark, ripe with sweet fruit and good length of fruit along fruit palate with just the oak. $12 the entire palate. $15 right amount of oak to balance. $19.95TOP 40 Yalumba The Scribbler Barossa Cabernet St Hallett Gamekeeper’s Reserve Barossa Shiraz Sauvignon Shiraz 2008 Grenache Touriga Nacional 2008 Soft and gentle wine that would be just perfect Savoury young thing with lovely fresh, lifted aromas served with cheese. Intense sweet fruit flavours and lively spicy/peppery palate with just the right balanced by ‘sensible’ oak and a tannic end. $19.95 amount of oak. Excellent quaffer. $14 Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Barossa Cabernet Long Flat Destinations Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 Sauvignon 2008 Fresh, vibrant wine with earthy aromas edged with Young, lively number with fresh dark fruit characters, eucalypt, and a spicy, peppery palate. $15.99 well-integrated oak and acid. Very flavoursome. $15 Vinrock McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 McPherson Basilisk Central Victoria Shiraz Firm, full-bodied wine with youthful tarry fruit. Needs more time to settle. $19.95 Mourvedre 2008 Lovely fruit nose and elegant palate with seamless balance between oak and fleshy sweet fruits. Give it a few more years. 5+ $17.9578 The Wine & Spirit Insider

Mojo by RockBare Mandalay Road Maxwell Silver Mount Alexander Harbord The TendrilBarossa Valley Geographe Hammer McLaren Winery Shiraz 2007 Barossa Shiraz 2008Shiraz 2008 Shiraz 2008 Vale Shiraz 2008 Crimson wine with Rich, rounded, well-Licorice aromas mingle Elegant floral and lightly Brooding heavyweight purple highlights. Smells balanced style withwith plums. Oak-driven spicy aromas and up- that needs time in the of licorice and plums and butterscotch andpalate with porty fruit front berry flavours with cellar to settle and has a lovely earthiness. mocha-like aromas andbeneath. Warming grippy tannins. $15 develop. Plenty of Big, mouthfilling palate flavours with unctuousfinish. $15.99 sweet fruit with licorice with excellent varietal varietal fruit and lovely notes. $19.95 fruit flavours and good soft tannins. $18 tannic grip. $16.50 Issue 110 | March/April 2010Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Telephone (08) 8357 9277Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Facsimile (08) 8357 9212Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. E-mail [email protected] Copyright 2010 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. Website www.winestate.com.auPeter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied,Marketing Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to anySue Lumb E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit Insider 79

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how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means 5 international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, weWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more will have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 81

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts in recent months - the 2005 achieving a hammer price of $130, while both the ’06STERLING WINE AUCTIONS MW WINE AUCTIONS and 2000 sold for a solid $115.February 26-March 10 (JANUARY REPORT)(consignment deadline February 22) Cautious optimism would be the best The hottest sector of the secondary wineMarch 26-April 14 description of the current status of the auction market lately has been the rare and(consignment deadline March 22) Australian wine auction market, with green old Australian classics. Estimates based onApril 30-May 12 shoots of recovery appearing as buyers previous performances have proved to be(consignment deadline April 26) absorb the additional stock that was around highly conservative as demand and thereby throughout 2009. Clearance levels at MW prices for these great old wines have beenLANGTON’S WINE wines remain above 70 per cent - a sign of insatiable. In the past few months, MWAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE the overall confidence and a good matching wines has witnessed new records for winesFebruary 23-March 9 (Sydney) of vendor and buyer expectations. like the 1953 ‘Queen Adelaide’ Claret, whichMarch 9-23 (Melbourne) brought a hammer price of $900, almost fourMarch 23-April 6 (Sydney) When assessing the overall heartbeat times the published estimate.April 6-20 (Melbourne) of the market, vendors and buyers needApril 20-May 4 (Sydney) look no further than the performance of A lot of French wines have been presented Penfolds Grange. Most vintages of Grange for sale in the last quarter, and to an extentODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS from the 1970s are achieving hammer this has generally kept prices somewhatMarch 30 (entries close March 12) prices in the mid to high $300s - typified subdued. However, when the real classicMay 4 - Tasting Australia live auction recently with examples such as $360 wines are presented, buyer demand isMay 11 (entries close April 16) for a 1972 and $350 for a ’79. Hammer always strong. The fabled 1961 Chateau prices between $300 and $400 are also Mouton Rothschild recently found its way toMW WINE AUCTIONS the norm for vintages in the 1980s, with MW wines and, while it was a mid-shoulderMarch 4-10 (web progressive auction; the exception being 1986 - which sold example, buyer interest was high and asubmission deadline February 27) recently for $500. hammer price of $1050 achieved.April 8-14 (web progressive auction;submission deadline April 1) The Yarra Valley’s standout performer, MW wines’ expects to see a general Mount Mary Quintet, continues to impress lift across the entire market as 2010(All dates are subject to change, with strong performances across most continues. For more information visitwithout notice) vintages. The recent star has been the www.mwwines.com.au. 1998 vintage, which was respectfully acknowledged by MW’s buyers, realising ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS a hammer price of $160. Giaconda (JANUARY REPORT) Chardonnay has also performed strongly Oddbins kicked off 2010 with its most successful January sale in five years. Prices paid remained solidly within the middle of the published price guides and buyer enthusiasm for Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace continued at the strong levels experienced in November and December. Almost all the Henschke and Penfolds offerings cleared exceptionally well - with buyers particularly keen on Henschke’s Abbotts Prayer from the 1990s, Cyrils from ’94, Keynetons from the ’90s, Mt Edelstones from the early ’80s through to the 2000s and most Hill of Grace. With the large Penfolds offering, buyers successfully bid on Bins 28 and 128 from the early ’90s, most Bins 389 and 707 and Grange (including the imperfects). Second tier favourites like Burge’s Meshach, Jim Barry Armagh, Mount Mary Quintet, Rockford Basket Press and Wendouree varietals cleared well above expectation. Buyers were also attracted to a number of mid-priced, mid-matured Australian tables wines like Basedow’s Museum Release82 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

wine investment & collectingCabernet from ’86, Campbell’s ’03 Bobbie LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS The rare Australian wine market boomedBurns Shiraz and Dalwhinnie Cabernet and (DECEMBER/JANUARY REPORT) through 2009, with some wines increasingShiraz from the late ’90s. In reviewing the Top 20 listings of Langton’s in value by over 300 per cent. Classic mature 2009 wine auction season, Penfolds, Chris vintages of Hunter Valley shiraz performed With the Imported category, Australia’s Ringland Shiraz, classic Hunter Valley and exquisitely. The 1954 McWilliam’s Mountlove affair with Burgundy continued in Barossa Shiraz were undoubtedly Australia’s Pleasant Robert Hermitage (shiraz) was thestrong fashion, along with keen bidding top-performing wines across the year. second highest ranked Australian performeron mid-priced Bordeaux, Chateauneuf du (excluding Penfolds), achieving $3174.70.Pape and Cote Rotie from the Rhone Valley, Penfolds Grange and rare Penfolds The 1965 Lindemans Bin 3100 Hunter RiverChampagne and a range of intriguing and experimental wines dominate the Australian Hermitage and its sibling - 1965 Bin 3110 - alsoenigmatic whites from the Loire Valley. secondary market. Of the top 20 prices paid fetched historically high values in 2009. in 2009 for Penfolds wines, although 1951 Bin Highlights from the January sale included 1 Grange took top billing at $43,701, it was a Nineteenth and 20th century vintages ofthe $750 hammer price paid for a magnum of 1957 St Henri which created the headlines. Seppelt 100 Year Old Para Liqueur Tawny2003 Grange, $1005 for a 1990 Krug Clos du At $8108.65, it is the highest price ever paid enjoyed a renaissance in 2009. TheseMesnil and $550 for a very rare Springbank for a bottle of Australian wine on the fine and immensely concentrated fortified wines,30-year-old single malt whisky. rare auction market - with the exception of now rebadged under the Seppeltsfield Grange. It also outperformed the astonishingly label, are unique in the world of Australian While it’s been a good start to the New rare 1958 Hill of Grace at $6325. wine. The 1878 fetched $1959.60, makingYear, Oddbins’ auctioneer/valuer Graham it the third highest ranking Australian wineWright has a warning for vendors: poor The enigmatic Chris Ringland Barossa (excluding Penfolds) in 2009.labels and wines with ullage and weeping Shiraz was the highest individual rankingcorks are still difficult to sell. Wines in original performer after Penfolds Grange. Ten “The depletion of pre-1970 Australian winesix-packs or original timber cases are first vintages fell within the top 50 performing on the secondary market and ever-increasingchoice for buyers - but even these must be Australian wines at auction and represented interest in Australia’s fine wine heritagein perfect or near-perfect condition. half of the top 20 rankings of Australian wine has resulted in escalating realisations (excluding Penfolds). at auction,” says Andrew Caillard, MW, For further information visit www.oddbins.com.au. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 83

wine investment & collecting Auction fine wine principal at Langton’s. “This is Try drinking less but with better quality is probably the time to dust off a few old anothertip-andlookattheauctionsalesresults.Cash bottles in the cellar and take stock. Although “Try a bottle of 2001 Penfolds St Henri for $60NOW! not all old wines achieve high prices, there hammer fall or 2005, 2003, 2001, 2000, 1999, must be a few great old Australian wine 1997, 1995 or ’94 Henschke Mt Edelstone - allIn a Hurry? bottles lurking around somewhere.” for around $70 hammer fall,” suggests Lynton. “My value favourite - d’Arenberg Dead Arm,The Wine Auction Process will get Domaine de la Romanee Conti and withatleasthalfadozenbackvintages,issellingyou better returns, but it could take Chateau Petrus made up 17 of the top 20 at auction for around $60 a bottle.”months to sell every last bottle. international wines at auction in 2009. The 2002 Romanee Conti attained $11,500, while However, you don’t have to spend moreConsider a quick cash deal? a 1982 Chateau Petrus scored the second than $25 a bottle at auction for a fabulous highest price at $8050. experience. “Look for recent classy vintagesSterling has a monthly “Live on Line” 2004, 2002, 1998 and 1996 of StonyfellWine Auction that taps huge For more information, including a full Metala, Tahbilk cabernet sauvignon andInternational demand for premium listing of 2009 top 20 price listings, visit shiraz, Saltram Mamre Brook, Redman’sback vintages. Find out how Sterling www.langtons.com.au. cabernet and shiraz and Wynns Coonawarraworks harder and smarter to produce shiraz and cabernet blends.”the best results for you. STERLING WINE AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE Lynton’s big call for 2010 is to buy 2006 FREE Auction Catalogues (FEBRUARY REPORT) Margaret River premium cabernets. “It seems FREE Bidder Registration With 2010 under way, Sterling’s Lynton a number of wine scribes have mega-bagged Barber shares some tips for buyers in the this vintage,” he says. “Recent auction prices Phone Lynton 08 9388 9955 secondary wine market. The first: to be bold for the Moss Wood around $50 are just or 0418 949 837, and seek out the lost treasure. ridiculous. I love this wine. It has matured markedly since release - with the unpopular or www.sterlingwine.com.au “Virgin Hills was one of the truly great green minty leafiness moving into tobacco Australian wines of the 1970s and ’80s,” leaf flavours. I recently tried and loved theSTERLING says Lynton. “These back vintages come regular 2006 Vasse Felix MR Cabernet, which Wine Auctions & Exchange through auctions and sell for peanuts. currently has an auction price under $30 a Redman’s Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon bottle - a major bargain for a classy, beautifully and Claret back vintages - particularly the big structured wine.” For more information visit formats, magnums and imperials - are also www.sterlingwine.com.au. cheap auction regulars.” Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Oddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps… Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids!84 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010 - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What

wine investment & collectingGRAYSONLINE AUCTION REPORT including a set of Grange magnums from Muck and Tatachilla Foundation haveWelcome to the first of our reports. 1979-1998 (missing was the 1987) attracted strong interest.Recent enhancements to the functionality recently selling for $23,300. Individualof the GraysOnline website, delivering bottles of Grange with good provenance Financial constraints have led to aa more content-rich and effective and presentation are always sought after. large increase in offerings from privateconsumer experience, have allowed Bottles from 1992, 1993 and 1996 have vendors seeking to liquidate assets. WineGraysOnline to capitalise on an emerging all achieved $550, and a 1962 vintage is even more liquid an asset these daystrend within the wine auction space - sold for $1039. Henschke Hill of Grace (no pun intended) with enhanced accessthat of convenience. Marketing a wide is always in demand, with recent sales and increased frequency of auctions viarange of wine to a huge database of of the 1990 vintage averaging $430 the internet providing a very efficientmore than 600,000 consumers certainly a bottle. GraysOnline are also noting vehicle for bringing buyers and sellershas its efficiencies, and the GraysOnline strengths within more affordable iconic together and delivering the best possibleproposition has been designed to sub-brands, such as Wynn’s John Riddoch result for vendors. A surge in sales toeducate and inform its customer base and Michael, Grant Burge Meshach and non-CBD locations and remote areasabout the relative merits of individual Wolf Blass Black Label. is due to consumers finding previouslymuseum releases. inaccessible premium products via Grays Niche products are also attracting Online and an observable trend across Unreserved auctions generally start fierce bidding. Old-school clarets are wines from private cellar auctions andevery four days, meaning there is selling well, with Penfolds 1984 and ’88 more consumable lines.always something new and interesting St Henri achieving around $90. Bottlesto be found, and geographic and time of 1945 Penfolds Grandfather Port and Customers scrambled to secure iconicconstraints are minimised. Enhancements 1954 Hardys Bin 177 Port recently sold labels in time for the festive season, andto the purchasing experience and images for $159 and $154 respectively. Keenly champagne highlights included somefeaturing ullage levels and label conditions contested wines included offerings rare bottles of 1979 La Grande Dame.have created a more seamless transaction from Wendouree and Bannockburn Listed among the top 100 champagnesall round and excitement is constant, with and selections as diverse as a1987 of all time by Richard Juhlin, this wineimminently closing sales. Hardys Jimmy Watson Trophy Winner, achieved a hammer price of $330 a bottle. d’Arenberg Dead Arm, Giaconda cabernet Veuve Clicquot Champagne 1983 Special Recent strong demand, both from sauvignon. Tarrawarra Estate pinot noir, Vintage 200th Anniversary Australianrecently acquired and existing customers, Lindeman’s Hunter River Burgundy, and settlement was snapped up for $150.have kept prices strong. Traditional shiraz such as Jasper Hill Georges, E &auction favourites and premium back E Black Pepper, Wild Duck Creek Duck For more information on private salesvintages continue to surge, with highlights email [email protected] or visit www.graysonline.com. AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 85

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. 2000 $95 GREENOCK CREEK 1989 $240 2002 $40 2002 $65 2001 $70 Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $460  2003 $30 2003 $60 Shiraz 2004 $30 2004 $60  2005 $40 2002 $65 1995 $370 1991 $370 2003 $80 1992 $340  2004 $75 1996 $280 1993 $280 E & E Black 2005 $80 1997 $190  1994 $340 Pepper Shiraz 2006 $90 DE BORTOLI 1998 $380 1995 $290 1990 $85  Noble One (375ml) 1990 $451991 $90 1991 $40 1999 $180 1996 $450 1992 $24 2000 $2201992 $56 CLARENDON HILLS 1993 $30 1997 $290  Georgia’s Paddock 1994 $46 2001 $240  1998 $450 1990 $1101993 $65 Astralis Shiraz 1995 $38 2002 $400  1999 $340 1991 $60 Chardonnay 1994 $220 1996 $50 1992 $80 Art Series1994 $65 1995 $210 1997 $35  2003 $200  2001 $330 1993 $951995 $60 1998 $45  1994 $85 1990 $601996 $90 1996 $300 1999 $30 2002 $440 1995 $75 1991 $70 2000 $35  Roennfeldt Road 2004 $450 1996 $70 1992 $75 1997 $70 1997 $250 2001 $24 Cabernet 2005 $350 1997 $65 1993 $68 1998 $320 2002 $45  1998 $85 1994 $751998 $100 1999 $310 2003 $24 Sauvignon 1999 $70 1995 $1501999 $70 2004 $25 2000 $75 1996 $652000 $65 2000 $270 2006 $30 1995 $300 Hill of Grace 2001 $80 1997 $75 1996 $200 Magnum 2002 $85 1998 $702001 $65 2001 $300 Elderton 1997 $165 2003 $80 1999 $85 2002 $320 Command Shiraz 1980 $500 2004 $75 2000 $752002 $85 1990 $100 1998 $290 1981 Not Released 2005 $55 2001 $90 2003 $54 2003 $210 1991 Not Released 2006 $65 2002 $85 2004 $350 1992 $75 1999 $220 1982 $530 2003 $1102004 $65 1993 $65 2000 $210 2004 $95  2005 $320 1994 $95 1983 $480 2005 $75 1995 $75 2001 $210 1984 $420 2006 $70 1996 $95 2002 $260  1985 Not Released BASS PHILLIP CLONAKILLA 1997 $80 1986 $950Premium Pinot Noir Shiraz Viognier 1998 $90 1987 $650 1990 $65 1999 $60 Grossett 1988 $500 1990 $80 1993 $65 2000 $65 Polish Hill Riesling 1989 $650 1991 $100 1994 $85 2001 $80 1992 $120 1995 $65 2002 $75  1990 $55 1990 $850 1993 $100 1996 $100 2003 $60  1991 $45 1994 $120 1997 $100 2004 $80 1992 $45 1991 $650 1995 $95 1998 $120  2005 $65 1992 $580 Majella 1996 $115 1999 $55 1993 $45 1994 $750  The Malleea Shiraz 1997 $180 2000 $65 1994 $45 1998 $110 2001 $130  1995 $50 Cabernet 1999 $140 2002 $85 1996 $60 Cyril Henschke Armagh Shiraz 1996 $55 2000 $110 2003 $95  1990 $95 1990 $220 1997 $48 2001 $100 2004 $100 1997 $60 1991 $85 1991 $180 1998 $95  2002 $145 2005 $120  1998 $40 1992 $120 1999 $50 2003 $110 2006 $100  1999 $45  1992 $85  1993 $110 2000 $42 2004 $85 2007 $120 2000 $35 1993 $80 1994 $130 2001 $70 2005 $80 1994 $85 1995 $130 2002 $65 2007 $90 2001 $40 1995 $70 1996 $150 2003 $65 2002 $55 1997 $150 2004 $55 2003 $45 1996 $120  1998 $220  2005 $60 2004 $45  1997 $70 1999 $130 2005 $55 1998 $110  2000 $120 1999 $75 2001 $130 GIACONDA 2006 $40 2002 $200Best’s Thomson Chardonnay 2007 $40 2000 $80  2004 $145 Family Shiraz 2001 $801992 $85 1990 $100 2008 $40 2002 $1001993 Not Released 1991 $75 2003 $65 1992 $851994 $70 1993 $90 2004 $100 1995 $100 1994 $1001996 $95 Cabernet Merlot 1995 $85 2005 $80 KAY BROS MOSS WOOD1997 $75 1990 $95 1996 $130 2005 $75 Block 6 Old Vine Cab Sauv1998 $100 1991 $100 1997 $90 1999 Not Released 1992 $80 1998 $125 Eileen Hardy Mount Edelstone Shiraz 1990 $1302000 Not Released 1993 $85 1999 $110 Shiraz 1990 $120 1990 $95 1991 $120 2001 $90 1994 $90 2000 $110 1991 $90 1991 $50 1992 $1202004 $70 1995 $95 2001 $100 1990 $90  1992 $90  1992 $75 1993 $90 1996 $100 2002 $160 1991 $50 1993 $80 1993 $50 1994 $130 BINDI 1997 $90 2004 $170 1992 $55 1994 $75 1994 $60 1995 $170Block 5 Pinot Noir 1998 $95 2005 $130 1993 $60 1995 $75 1995 $50 1996 $1501997 $80 1999 $95 2006 $120 1994 $75  1996 $95 1996 $65 1997 $851998 $95 2000 $85  1995 $65 1997 $70 1997 $45 1998 $1501999 Not Released 2001 $80 1996 $80  1998 $95 1998 $80 1999 $1402000 $160 2002 Not Released 1997 $50 1999 $75  1999 $65 2000 $1202001 $95 2003 $75 1998 $85 2000 $65 2000 $65 2001 $1202002 $110 2004 $70 1999 $50 2001 $85  2001 $65 2002 $95 2000 $55 2002 $130 2002 $70 2003 $952003 $85 D’ARENBERG Meshach 2001 $75 2003 $80 2003 $60 2004 $852004 $140 The Dead Arm 1990 $110 2002 $55 2004 $85 2004 $65 2005 $85 2005 $120 1991 $85  2003 $55 2005 $75 2005 $54 2006 $652006 $70 Shiraz 1992 $70 2004 $65 2006 $552007 $75 1994 $120 1993 $65 KATNOOK ESTATE MOUNT MARY 1995 $55 1994 $75 2006 $80 Odyssey Cab Sauv Quintet 1996 $75 1995 $80  1991 $90 BROKENWOOD 1997 $60 1996 $95  Hill of Grace Keyneton Estate 1992 $75 1990 $260 Graveyard Shiraz 1998 $65 1997 Not Released 1980 $250 1990 $45 1993 Not Released 1991 $1101990 $90 1999 $60  1998 $130  1981 $230 1991 $45 1994 $75 1992 $1101991 $100 2000 $55  1999 $85 1982 $240 1992 $45 1995 Not Released 1993 $1301992 Not Released 2001 $55  2000 $70 1983 $240 1993 $45 1996 $95 1994 $1201993 $75 2002 $60 2001 $85 1984 $210 1994 $36 1997 $65 1995 $1001994 $80 2003 $65 2002 $85  1985 $250  1995 $34 1998 $85 1996 $1601995 $70 2004 $60 2003 $75 1986 $350 1996 $50 1999 $75  1997 $110 1996 $95 2005 $48 2004 $75 1987 $210 1997 $34 2000 $80 1998 $1601997 $70 2006 $55 1988 $300  1998 $60 2001 $70 1999 $1201998 $110 1999 $36 2000 $1601999 $85 2000 $35 2001 $120 2001 $30  2002 $140 86 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.2003 $130  1995 $800 2002 $80 1993 $750 1980 $2202004 $140  1996 $1,000 2003 $55 1994 $600 1982 $5002005 $160  1997 $800 2004 $75 1995 $500 1983 $1802006 $150 1998 $1,200 2005 $65 Stonewell Shiraz 1996 $1,200 1985 $300 1999 $800 1990 $90  1997 Not Released 1988 $260 2000 $1,100 Magill Estate 1991 $70 1998 $1,000 John Riddoch 1990 $600  1992 $60 Cab Sauv 2001 $1,100 1990 $70 1993 $65 1999 $800  1990 $70 1992 $200 2002 $1,500 1991 $70  1994 $65 2000 $450 1991 $75  1993 $220 2003 $900  1992 $55 1995 $60 2001 $850  1992 $60 1995 $220 1993 $50 1996 $95 2002 $850 1996 $280 Bin 95 Grange 1994 $60 1997 $65 1993 $55 1998 $2601951 $43,000 1998 $75 1994 $701952 $17,000 1995 $45 1999 $60 TORBRECK 1995 Not Released 1999 $2201953 $13,000 1996 $70 2000 $75 2000 $2501954 $14,000 1997 $50 2001 $65 Run Rig Shiraz 1996 $65 FORTIFIEDS1955 $3,600 1998 $75 2002 $70 1995 $250 1997 $501956 $14,000 Bin 707 1999 $65  1996 $350 1998 $80 Para Liqueur1957 $11,000 1980 $110 2000 $55  1997 $240 1999 $52 1878 $1,2001958 $4,800 1981 Not Released 2001 $55 1998 $350 2003 $50 1879 $1,2001959 $2,000 1982 $120 2002 $55 1999 $200 2004 $50 1880 $8001960 $1,400 1983 $130 2003 $70 2000 Not Released 2005 $75 1881 $8001961 $1,200 1984 $95 2004 $65 2001 $190 1887 $8001962 $1,100 1985 $120 2005 $60 2002 $220 1893 $1,0001963 $1,000 1986 $160 2006 $75 2003 $200 Michael Shiraz 1899 $1,0001964 $650  1987 $110 2004 $200 1955 $1,600 1908 $5501965 $550 1988 $130 Basket Press 2005 $200 1990 $95  1910 $5001966 $600 Bin 389 2006 $170 1991 $65 1922 $6501967 $700 1989 $110 1990 $100 Shiraz 1992 Not Released 1925 $8001968 $550 1990 $150 1993 $50 1927 $4801969 $550 1990 $170 1991 $80  1991 $135 1994 $65  1930 $1801970 $360 1991 $140 1995 Not Released 1933 $1601971 $700 1992 $120 1992 $50 1992 $95 1996 $55 1939 $1501972 $350 1993 $55 1993 $75 1997 $55  1944 $901973 $360  1993 $130  1998 $60 1947 $801974 $380 1999 $45 1951 $3001975 $400 1994 $150 1994 $55 1994 $90 2003 $50 1976 $801976 $650 1995 $50 2004 $60 1977 $381977 $390 1995 Not Released 1996 $85 1995 $75 Shiraz 2005 $65 1978 $701978 $400 1996 $200  1997 $45  1996 $140 1990 $145 The Octavius Shiraz 1979 $521979 $370  1991 $130 1990 $75 1980 $301980 $340 1997 $140 1998 $80  1997 $80 1992 $75 1991 Not Released 1981 $1001981 $340 1998 $200 1998 $190  1993 $80 1992 $60 Para Liqueur Bin1982 $350 1999 $50 1999 $95  1994 $160 1993 $451983 $360 1999 $130 2000 $44 1995 $90 1994 $70 Numbered1984 $320 2000 Not Released 2001 $50 2000 $80 1996 $160  1995 $65 NV $201985 $350 2001 $120  2001 $85 1997 $90  1996 $901986 $550 1998 $160  1997 $60 1987 $320 2002 $150 2002 $55 2002 $110 1999 $1101988 $340 2003 $50 2003 $90 2000 $80 1989 $340 2003 Not Released 2004 $48   2001 $951990 $580 2002 $1501991 $400 2004 $150 2005 $50  2004 $95  2003 $801992 $340  2005 $95 2004 $1501993 $330 2005 $140 2006 $50 2006 $85 2005 $1301994 $340 2006 $150 2006 $1501995 $320 1996 $480  RWT1997 $340 Bin 707 Magnum 1997 $95 1998 $1001998 $540 1980 $190 1998 $140 1999 $601999 $410 1981 Not Released 1999 $100 2000 $602000 $420 1982 $210 2000 $90 2001 $852001 $400 1983 $260 2001 $85 2002 $902002 $450 1984 $190 2003 $802003 $380 1985 $230 2002 $120 Old Block Shiraz WILD DUCK CREEK 2004 $80 Grandfather Port2004 $520 1986 $340 2003 $100 1990 $85  ‘Duck Muck’ 11940 $240 1987 $190 2004 $110 1991 $50 Shiraz 1945 $220 1988 $180 2005 $90 1992 $35  1989 $175 2006 $110 1993 $40 1994 $400 1994 $45 1995 $400 1990 $360 1995 $45  1996 Not Released 1991 $240 Block 42 1997 $490 1992 $165 Cab Sauv 1996 $56 1993 $200 1996 $420 1997 $40 1998 Not Released 1994 $350 2004 $500 1998 $60 1999 Not Released 1999 $45 2000 $350 2001 $340 1995 Not Released 2000 $40 2002 $360 Dry Red No. 1 1996 $360 2004 $320 1990 $150 Vintage Port 1997 $225 2001 $40 2007 $260 1991 $65 2002 $75  1992 $55 1956 $120 1998 $290 2003 $50 1993 $55 1958 $140 1999 $190 1994 $70 1964 $110 2000 Not Released 2004 $50 1995 $55 1965 $110 2001 $250 1996 $65 1966 $100Bin 95 Grange 2002 $235 Coonawarra SEPPELT Black Label 1997 $75 1967 $65 Magnum 2004 $300 Red Blend Show Sparkling 1990 $100 1998 $75 1968 $65 1991 $110  1999 $50 1971 $601979 $2,000 2005 $320 1990 $65 Shiraz 1992 $70 2000 $651980 $900 1991 $55 1993 $80  2001 $120 1981 $1,000 1992 $40 1984 $65 1994 $95  2002 $651982 $950 1985 $90 1995 $80 2003 $601983 $1,000 St. Henri 1993 $35 1996 $75 2004 $851984 $880 1994 $40 1986 $75 1997 $651985 $900 1990 $170  1995 $35 1987 $701986 $2,000 1991 $95 1996 $55  1990 $701987 $900 1992 $701988 $800 1993 $70 1997 $45 1991 $451989 $850 1993 $551990 $2,000 1994 $65 1998 $75 1994 $65 1991 $1,100 1999 $451992 $1,000 1995 $60 2000 $45  1998 $1101993 $1,000 1996 $120  2001 $40 1999 $60 Moet et Chandon1994 $800 1997 $60 THREE RIVERS/ 2000 $70 Cuvee Dom Chris Ringland 2001 $70 Perignon 2002 $35 2002 $120 1998 $95  2004 $45 Wines Shiraz 2003 $60 1973 $360 1999 $70 1990 $900 2004 $70 1975 $400 2000 $60 2005 $45 1976 $240 2001 $60 2006 $45 1991 $700  1978 $290 1992 $650 March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 87

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINcentral & western victoriaINSPIRATIONAL Chef Richard Mee produces innovative EVOCATIVELY AVOVAINSTITUTION cuisine using regional produce whenever possible (the menu lists his local MOUNT Avoca Winery in the Pyrenees hasTHE LAKE House in Daylesford has been suppliers) and the service is both friendly recently opened three new luxury, eco-one of regional Victoria’s premier destination and knowledgeable. Here dishes may friendly cabins overlooking the vines andrestaurants for 25 years and shows no sign include the likes of seared fillet of Tuki olive groves. All are excellently appointed,of flagging. Inspirational owner Alla Wolf- trout with avocado, nectarine, white with extremely comfortable beds, cookingTasker, formidably knowledgeable, remains asparagus, salmon roe and baby herbs facilities, barbecues, comfy lounge rooms,as committed as ever to local produce and ($18) or spiced roast spatchcock on digital TVs and provisions for breakfast.it is almost entirely thanks to her that the cumin rice pilaf with sugar snaps,town has become a gourmet hotspot with currants, Swiss chard and a lime/mint Known as eco luxe @ Mount Avoca, the cabinsa range of cafes, wine bars, markets and yoghurt ($37.50). My pork belly and a dish are the brainchild of local winemaking pioneersboutique food producers. the Barry family, who hope the availability of of pan-seared prawns with macadamia superior vineyard accommodation will entice The Lake House remains the focal point of nut sambal and green mango salad were more visitors to the district. Their wineryany visit, with the restaurant retaining two hats both excellent. celebrates its 40th anniversary this year.in the 2010 The Age Good Food Guide, a10,000-bottle cellar full of interesting wines, 33 A five-course degustation dinner costs Tranquillity is key in the self-containedrooms and suites set on six acres of lakefront $95, or $135 with matched wines. The lodges, all of which feature large picturegardens, and a state-of-the-art day spa. list is excellent, with a good range by the windows overlooking Mount Avoca and glass, including local names like Hanging the Pyrenees Range and have private Head chef David Green is in fine form, Rock and Prancing Horse. Phone (03) 5348 balconies from which to watch the sun setcooking up dishes like smoked Skipton 4488; www.mercatorestaurant.com.au. over the vines. Luxuriously appointed kingeel, Istra pancetta, beetroot remoulade bedrooms have lovely linen and the cabinsand mustard oil partnered with the 2006 TRY THESE TREATS all have spa baths, while gourmet picnicEastern Peake Intrinsic Pinot Noir. Equally hampers can be prepared and guests aredelicious is the poached veal, sweetbreads, LAVANDULA Swiss-Italian Farm is a offered a complimentary bottle of wine.mustardy leeks, artichoke fritters and puree, lovely spot to wind down with lunch undermaybe served with the excellent Syrahmi the trees, while artisanal producers like The architecturally designed lodges2008 Maelstrom Heathcote Shiraz, made Istra Smallgoods and Fernleigh Organic employ passive heating and cooling andby Lake House sommelier Adam Foster. Or Farm welcome visitors who can buy eco-friendly materials to minimise theirmaybe the quail, miso eggplant, suckling direct. Other gourmet hotspots include carbon footprint and are clad in nativepig and trotter shiitake sauce with a 2008 the Farmers Arms gastro pub, Cliffy’s Australian cypress pine from managedMoonchaser Refosco from a tiny Macedon Emporium, the Perfect Drop Wine Bar plantations. Floors are native spotted gum,Ranges winery. and Wine is a 4 Letter Word, a tiny wine while slabs of local bluestone form passive bar across the road that is also the cellar solar heat banks at the foot of the living Thewinelist,asyou’dexpect,isglobalindepth door for Horvat Wines. and bedroom windows. Leading regionaland Adam encourages guests to experiment wineries Blue Pyrenees, Redbank, Taltarni(maybe a Henriques and Henriques Bual and Warrenmang are all a short drive away.Madeira with your chicken soup consomme).Three courses cost $85 or an eight-coursedegustation menu is available for $125 (or$195 with matching wines). Dining here isa rare treat and the accommodation, suitesoverlooking Lake Daylesford, are large andsublimely comfortable. Phone (03) 5348 3329;www.lakehouse.com.au.LOCALLY LUSCIOUSTHE OTHER “must visit” eatery in Daylesfordis the delightful Mercato@daylesford,a top-notch restaurant set in a timberbuilding that dates back to 1864.88 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

travelbriefs Accommodation rates start from $220per night (including continental breakfast)for longer stays, while the old familyhomestead has just been completelyrefurbished and is now available for groupsof four or more. Phone (03) 5465 3282;www.mountavoca.com.au.ANNIE’S ATTRACTIONSTHE SMALL central Victorian townof Kyneton has become a key foodiedestination over the past few years, thankslargely to celebrated chef Annie Smithers. leaves ($18.50), onion tart with goat’s WHERE BUBBLESThe arrival of Annie Smithers’ Bistro in cheese and pea puree ($18.50) or WERE BORNfunky Piper St was the spark in reviving mains like trout almondine ($32) andthe town, which buzzes with visitors at free-range duck confit with sarladaise THE GRAMPIANS and nearby Henty areweekends and over the holidays. potatoes (($31). known as the birthplace of Australian sparkling wine, but the area also produces The food is French-influenced and Cheeses and desserts are excellent peppery shirazes and crisp, clean rieslings.cooked and served with aplomb. Think (check out the apple fritters with saffron The region, around 205km west of Melbourne,dishes like chicken livers sauteed with ice cream), while the wine list offers an is centered on the town of Ararat and nearbylardons and veal jus served on spinach excellent choice of local (Curly Flat and Great Western, home to some of Australia’s Vaughan Springs) to French and Italian greatest sparkling wines. offerings. Phone (03) 5422 2039; www. anniesmithers.com.au Cellar door musts include Seppelt, with its 3km of underground cellars, known as OPTIONS FOR STAYERS drives, and Best’s, one of Australia’s oldest continuously family-owned and operated KYNETON has motel and cottage wineries. The lovely old, red gum slab accommodation like B&B on Piper tasting room (former stables), the hand- downtown, but there is also the option dug 1860s cellars and the original Nursery of the stylish country bed and breakfast Block plantings are all part of Australian at historic St Agnes Homestead just out wine history. The cellar door offers tastings of town, where there are four room styles of Best’s current range of table and fortified to choose from. Phone (03) 5422 2639; wines, as well as limited-release wines www.saintagnes.com.au. available through cellar door only. The perfect destination for self- Regular tours and dinners are popular at catering guests is the traiteur-style deli Seppelt, and there are on-site accommodation Monsieur Pierre, which specialises in options. Choices include Vine Lodge meals that can easily be reheated. Think Homestead, a gracious Federation-style Moroccan chicken, beef Bourguignon or home built in the 1890s (from $180 per night Mediterranean fish stew. Monsieur Pierre double), and the Winemakers’ Quarters, a is run by Simon Fenwick, previously of the modern three-bedroom home that is used Shelmerdine cellar door cafe in Tooborac. by winemakers during vintage (from $125 Phone (03) 5422 1330. double). See www.seppelt.com.au. Even better, Macedon Ranges wineries Left: Annie Smither’s Bistro and one of their desserts. like Curly Flat, Bindi (by appointment only), Right: The Lake House by day. Knights Granite Hills, Cobaw Ridge and Opposite page: Mount Avoca’s eco-friendly cabins Hanging Rock are all nearby. and interior. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 89

regionaltasting central & western victoria125 TASTED riesling sauvignon blanc88 RECOMMENDED 7 TASTED 5 TASTEDA very good tasting, with some of the best results we have seen for 5 RECOMMENDED 4 RECOMMENDEDa number of years from these two disparate regions. Standouts hereincluded marsanne and viognier, 2006 shiraz and a complex group of Nice aromatics, with elegant “The Pyrenees region is greatlyred varietals and blends. Cabernet merlot is a winner here and the flavours and potential for underrated for the productionjudges were very pleased with the direction of chardonnay. ageing. Some interesting of sauvignon blanc,” said one experimentation with a touch judge. Good results. of residual sweetness. Warrenmang Pyrenees Sauvignon Blanc Harcourt Valley 2009 HHHHsparkling Kinloch Wines Don Vineyards Bendigo Pretty wine with grassy aromas Kinloch Chardonnay Riesling 2009 HHHH9 TASTED Pinot Noir Pinot Smells of honeydew melons and nice tropical notes threaded8 RECOMMENDED and apricots. Up-front fruit through. Good varietal palate Meunier 2008 HHH1/2 on the palate, with hint of with an excellent acid spine andStrong line-up with consistently Pleasant, developed, sweetness balanced by goodgood drinking, showing good toasty/Vegemite-like nose acidity. Very European-like. $16 lovely minerality. 3-5 $20winemaking expertise. and flavoursome palate with Taltarni T Series lingering aftertaste. Nice Victoria Sauvignon Blanc quaffing wine. 3-5 $32 Tahbilk Nagambie Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 Lakes Central Victoria Sweaty tropical notes on the Grampians Estate Kelly’s Riesling 2009 HHHH nose. Bright and fresh on the Welcome Sparkling Pinot Bright varietal nose - intense lovely varietal palate - very Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 and citrusy. Light, fresh and aromatic. A touch warm. Subtle aromas of apples with aromatic in the mouth, with slight cheesy note. Lively palate nice spicy thread running 5+ $15 with clean, fresh lime and through the palate. A touch lemon-type flavour profile. $35 hot. 5+ $16.45 Blue Pyrenees Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Blue Pyrenees Garden Gully Savoury wine with a lovely Vineyard Grampians complexity of tropicalBalgownie Estate Brut Chardonnay Riesling 2007 HHH1/2 characters mixed withBlack Label Bendigo Pinot Noir NV HHH herbaceous layers. $18Heathcote Sparkling Lovely developed quince Developed aromas with typical kerosene-like agedShiraz 2008 HHHH like aromas with dash of characters. Softly textured, Ros Ritchie Wines“Smells like a good shiraz,” marmalade. Complex green Mansfield Sauvignonsaid one judge. Lovely purple apple palate. 1-2 $20 spicy palate. Very mature for Blanc 2009 HHH its age. 1-2 $22 Delicate bouquet - has a whiffhues. Great length and power of honey and fruit salad. Greatof rich, spicy, sweet fruit. Blue Pyrenees Midnight palate structure and complexPalate quite tannic. Needs lots Cuvee 2008 HHH Montara Grampians flavours. $24.90 Riesling 2009 HHHmore time. 5+ $29 Interesting cracked wheat Floral, aromatic nose and spicy character on the nose andThe Wine Society Dr Gilbert simple, one-dimensional apple lime and apple palate. Very fresh and lively style. 5+ $17 other whitePhilips Late Disgorged cider palate. 3-5 $29 varietals & blendsVintage Brut 2003 HHHHAttractive yeasty bouquet with Blue Pyrenees Vintage Seppelt Drumborg 11 TASTEDslight herbaceous character Brut Chardonnay Vineyard Riesling 9 RECOMMENDEDand some honeyed notes. Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier 2009 HHHCreamy palate with sweet 2006 HHH Lovely aromas, with slightberry fruit flavours that linger Quite French in style, with nuttiness showing through,long. 3-5 $19.99 honey and limes on the nose and well-balanced, lightweight and a creamy soft texture in palate. $31.99 Strong class, with good the mouth. $24 results for viognier and, not surprisingly, marsanne. Blue Pyrenees Brut Rose 2001 HHH Smells of sweet cherries and berries; some yeastiness. Light and simple, with strawberry flavours. 5+ $2490 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

winestate regional tasting central & western victoriaMcPherson Basilisk McGuigan Discover Seppelt Drumborg other redCentral Victoria Marsanne Victoria Pinot Grigio Vineyard Chardonnay varietals & blendsViognier 2007 HHHHH 2009 HHH1/2 2007 HHHH1/2Golden wine with a great nose Refined, delicate combo of Refreshing, oak-driven style. 28 TASTED- very Rhone-like. Smells of mandarin and mixed peel aromas, Quite toasty on the nose, with 20 RECOMMENDEDmarmalade and honeysuckle. and a refreshingly crisp, citrusy a vanillin edge. Spicy in theFresh orange blossom flavours palate. Excellent style. $15 mouth, with melon and citrus Wide range of wines, withwith nutty notes. Great weight, fruit underneath. Has elegance the judges pleased to seelength and balance to the Ros Ritchie Wines and length. $44.99 there were few winemakingpalate. “Give me more,” said Mansfield Pinot Gris Warrenmang Estate faults. Although the pinotsone judge. 5+ $17.95 2009 HHH Estate Victoria were disappointing, merlots Distinct pear and rose petal Chardonnay 2008 HHHH performed well, as did theTahbilk Nagambie Lakes aromas, with delicate, Good commercial style. Intense cabernet blends.Central Victoria Marsanne honeyed/cherry flavours. aromas of quince, grapefruit2009 HHHH1/2 True to style. $24.90 and melons. Well-handledVery well made wine with oak balances the floral fruitfreshness and complexity, Heathcote Winery Cravens flavours. Built to last! $20balance and length. The nose is Place MCV Heathcote Kinloch Wines Mansfieldquite lemony and the palate is White 2008 HHH Chardonnay 2008 HHHHloaded with flavours of lemons, Spicy and complex on the Delicate, elegant wine withwith hints of honeysuckle nose then a refreshingly youthful complexity. Citrusshowing through. $15.65 zingy juicy fruit palate. Very and melon aromas mingle with drinkable! $16.50 spicy notes. Soft and balancedTahbilk 1927 Vines in the mouth. $22Central Victoria Marsanne chardonnay Blue Pyrenees2000 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2Honey blossom fragrances lift off 13 TASTED Great quaffer, with goodthe nose. The palate is complex 8 RECOMMENDED juicy varietal fruit seamlesslyand yet amazingly still youthful balanced with well-handledwith lovely length of acidity and “I’m excited,” said one judge. oak. Has some sweaty, tropicaljust a suggestion of oak. Has “I’ve thought about buying characters. $18plenty left in it. 3-5 $45 chardonnay again after this Blue Pyrenees Reserve tasting. There is more fruit Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 Blue Pyrenees Merlot elegance and the oak isn’t Golden wine with lovely 2008 HHHHHBlue Pyrenees Viognier overdone.” The hallmark here is combination of nutty/spicy Alluring chocolaty bouquet2009 HHHH good acidity and fresh, lively fruit. oak and melon-like fruit. StillSpicy apricot aromas. Lovely youthful but just starting to with rich, Christmas fruit-like Tahbilk Nagambie develop nicely. $28 characters standing out.texture to the full-bodied palate Lakes Central Victoria Harcourt Valley Nicely developed palate. Stillwith its abundance of spicy, Chardonnay 2008 HHHHH Vineyards Bendigoaromatic fruit flavours and just a Very well made wine Chardonnay 2009 HHH has plenty of acidity, which developing lovely complex Nice oak/melon combination balances an abundance ofsuggestion of oak. 1-2 $18 aromas; floral fruit over oak. on the nose, which follows sweet fruit and is supported by Great balance between fruit through to the simple, one-Tahbilk Nagambie and oak on the palate with its dimensional palate. $20 spicy oak. 5+ $18Lakes Central Victoria nice buttery texture. A touchViognier 2009 HHHH alcoholic. $16.45 McPherson BasiliskBright honeydew melons on Central Victoria Cabernetthe nose with an apricot lift. Seppelt Jaluka Drumborg Merlot 2008 HHHHHLovely palate - a tad simple and Vineyard Henty Dark red, beautifully balanced,quite warm, with a silky-smooth Chardonnay 2008 HHHH1/2 fruity, leafy, minty style. Lovelytexture in the mouth. $21.50 Interesting nose, with spicy lifted fruit aromas followed by oak and herbal complexity a full-bodied palate that’s softWater Wheel Vineyards merging seamlessly. Very and velvety in the mouth andMemsie Homestead youthful palate - zingy and hot, has great supporting tanninBendigo White 2008 HHHH with lovely intensity of citrus structure. Plenty ahead of it.Golden straw wine with fruit flavours. $26.99 5+ $17.95attractive grassy/lime bouquetand big, soft palate with creamytexture and lovely balance ofoak and fruit. 3-5 $14 judges Adriano Marchioro Alan George Simon Clayfield Winery manager at Chief winemaker Owner/director/ Witchmount Wines and of Tahbilk Winery winemaker/viticulturalist cellarmaster for MoMo for the past eight of his own winery restaurant in Melbourne. years. Previously in Victoria’s Great Sommelier at Flemington was a winemaker at Western region. Racecourse. Associate Lindemans, Mitchelton Former winemaker at judge at Ballarat and the and Rosemount Hungerford Hill, Best’s Victorian Wine Show. Has in a winemaking Wines and Warrenmang. completed nine vintages in career spaning 34 Judged at Melbourne, Geelong, Great Western, years. Judge at the Ballarat, Victorian Wine Gippsland and Sunbury. Rutherglen Wine Show. Show and Swan Hill. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 91

winestate regional tasting central & western victoria Warrenmang Torchio Blue Sedona Estate Yea Valley Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Sangiovese 2008 HHH Dolcetto NV HHHH Savoury nose - all leather Lovely savoury richness. Nose and licorice. Both sweet and bright with berry fruits; palate savoury in the mouth. True to a touch hot, with excellent style. 3-5 $20 balance between fruit and oak flavours. $60 Water Wheel Vineyards Bendigo Petit Verdot Water Wheel Vineyards 2008 HHH Memsie Homestead Jammy aromas with violet notes, Bendigo Red 2008 HHHH followed by a beautifully soft, Distinct smells of maraschino velvety palate. 5+ $20 cherries and showing a strong licorice character. Palate offers St Michael’s Vineyard a rich mouthful of sweet and Charlie’s Blend Heathcote spicy fruits. Good cellaring Shiraz Viognier 2008 HHH potential. 3-5 $14 Distinctly minty on the nose, with floral nuances. SpicyMount Alexander Kinloch Wines McPherson Basilisk palate; lots of oak. $25Winery Cabernet Shiraz Mansfield Pinot Central Victoria2008 HHHHH Meunier 2008 HHHH1/2 Tempranillo 2008 HHHH Balgownie Estate BendigoGorgeous looking crimson/ Crimson wine with a fruity nose Quite earthy on the nose, with Merlot 2008 HHHpurple wine with intense black showing hints of figs. Long, aromas of cherries and figs Fragrances of berries and olivesfruits. A touch sweet and spicy subtle, spicy fruit palate with a pushing through. Big, chunky with a hint of menthol. Hot andand supported by some very hint of residual sugar. Finishes a palate with intense sweet fruit spicy in the mouth. 5+ $60subtle oak and layers of firm, tad short. Very elegant style. $23 subtly balanced by oak andripe tannins. Great flavour tannins. $17.95 Lost Valley Winerypersistence. Very good wine. Mountain Country Central McPherson Basilisk Victoria Merlot 2006 HHH 3-5 $20 Central Victoria Shiraz Aromatic and fragrant nose. Mourvedre 2008 HHH1/2 Long, lingering spicy/forest fruitHarcourt Valley Lovely fruit nose and elegant flavours. 1-2 $34Vineyards Sightings palate with seamless balanceCabernet Sauvignon between oak and fleshy sweetShiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 fruits. Give it a few more cabernet sauvignonOak mingles with lifted, years. 5+ $17.95fragrant berry aromas. Great 11 TASTEDweight and length to the Galli Estate Heathcote 5 RECOMMENDEDpalate, with excellent flavour Shiraz Viognierintensity of varietal fruit edged 2008 HHH1/2 The judges found the good wineswith capsicum. $20 Elegant style developing spicy/ great but the lower scorers chocolaty aromas. Spicy palate quite ordinary. The tannins were Balgownie Estate Black with plenty of white pepper generous rather than hard and Label Bendigo Yarra characters and finishing with a well worth seeking out. Valley Cabernet Merlot cinnamon-like note. $18 2008 HHHH1/2 Bold, bright purple wine with Montara Grampians dusty/peppery aromas and very Pinot Noir 2008 HHH1/2 nice black jube fruit flavours Tarry/licorice aromas with more with some licorice showing of the charry/oak characters on through. Fine tannin structure. the palate. Sweet fruit lurking Lots of potential. $24 below. 3-5 $22 star ratings  Blue Pyrenees Reserve Estate Red 2006 HHH1/2Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Herbal, green tea bouquet withexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. some grassiness. More herbsAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry on the slightly tannic palate.professionals and are compared in peer Loads of oak. $32classes by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Sedona Estate Blue Pyrenees Caberneta major mail-order business. Yea Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHHHCD Cellar door price. Merlot 2005 HHH1/2 Deep red wine with gorgeousCDO Cellar door only. Lovely development on the purple hues. Black and inkySO Sold out. nose. Soft in the mouth, nose. Long, weighty palate$N/A Price not available at time of printing. with slightly astringent fruity is sweet and ripe with an flavours. $18 excellent tannin structure and Contact information pg 138. lip-smacking, inky flavours. $18 Warrenmang Grand Recommended cellaring (years). Pyrenees 2006 HHH Nose of oak, tar and licorice. Palate complex and sweet, with a chalky tannin finish. $3592 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

winestate regional tasting central & western victoriaHarcourt Valley Vineyards Tahbilk Nagambie Lakes Heathcote WinerySightings Bendigo Central Victoria Cabernet Slaughter House PaddockCabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2006 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHH2008 HHHH1/2 Lovely plummy nose and Good dollop of plums andBright red wine with distinctly youthful, tannic palate with oak on the nose, with licoricemaraschino cherry-like aromas good level of sweet fruit complexity developing. Massesmelded with some excellent flavours. Will improve further of sweet fruit on the palate,oak. Simple palate, well with more cellaring. $21.50 with a nice spicy edge. A touchbalanced and rich with ripe, Harcourt Valley Vineyards hot. A keeper. 5+ $44sweet fruit. 3-5 $20 Reserve Bendigo Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH Heathcote Winery Curagee Very berry nose with slight Shiraz 2008 HHHH mintiness. Grippy, tannic palate Slight mustiness on the fresh that’s built to last. $35 berry nose that leads to a savoury-style palate. Well-handled shiraz spicy oak and good tannic spine 2008 - 2007 balances the fruit. $60 19 TASTED Mount Alexander Winery Clayfield Wines Grampians 12 RECOMMENDED Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Crimson wine with purple Big, dense, inky nose, and a More of a mixed bag here. highlights. Smells of licorice palate that’s rich with sweet A few displayed warm alcohol and plums and has a lovely fruit and showing an attractive characters, reflecting the earthiness. Big, mouthfilling spicy edge. Hot on the finish. drought conditions. But most palate with excellent varietal are quite consumer-friendly, fruit flavours and good tannic 5+ $45 with fleshy, sweet fruit flavours. grip. $16.50 Harcourt Valley Clayfield Wines Vineyards Sightings Massif Grampians Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHHH Lusciously soft wine in perfect Big, luscious, brooding style balance. Aromas of herbs with with a jammy blackcurrant/ a dash of pepper, and a fine tannic palate. $20 cassis nose and juicy sweet Sedona Estate Yea Valley palate brimming over with ripe Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 varietal fruit flavours. Lots of Great savoury style with someSedona Estate potential. 5+ $25 very oaky characters on theYea Valley Cabernet nose and loads more oak onSauvignon 2004 HHHH1/2 the fleshy palate. $20Ageing beautifully, with yearsahead of it yet. Berries andspices on the nose and agreat, well-aged cabernetpalate - lots of coffee andmolasses flavours. $25 ���������������� ������������������������������������������������BUYERS Hosting Monthly W&SEiCnLeeLlEAlaRurSicntgioAndsvice Free Wine Valuations• Hosting Monthly WinePAreumctiuiomnsAustralian & In•tFerreneatWioninael WVailnueatsions & Cellaring Advice• Premium Australian & InOtefrfneraitniogneaxlcWelliennets ret•uOrnfsfetroinVgeenxdcoerlslent returns to Vendors• Regular Catalogues,CNoemwpselettitievres,RTaatsetsin: 0gs% se•lliCngoPmepnefotiltdivseGRrantegse: 0% Fee when selling Regular Catalogues, NewslettPeersn,fToalsdtsinGgsra&ngmeore... & more... MW Wines Pty Ltd, Email: [email protected] Marine Parade, Abbotsford, VICTORIA www.mwwines.com.au Ph: (03) 9419 6990 Fax: (03) 9419 6970mw_onethirdhoriz.indd 1 ������������������ March/April 2010 W I N E 2S7/T7/A09T2E:15:31 PM93 Call Anthony if you would like further information

winestate regional tasting central & western victoria Heathcote Winery shiraz Cravens Place Heathcote 2006 & older Shiraz 2008 HHH Spicy, well-balanced wine with 21 TASTED aromatic herbal/oaky nose and 16 RECOMMENDED good tannic palate. $19.50Balgownie Estate Black Galli Estate Antigiano Very strong class. “When you Warrenmang EstateLabel Bendigo Grampians Block Two Heathcote have the age of the vines and the Pyrenees ShirazShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2007 HHH right soils you get the synergy 2006 HHHHHPowerful coffee/licorice nose. Hint of mint on the herbal nose that creates great wines,” said Developed, oaky aromas withPalate a touch thin, with spicy and lovely mature palate with one judge. The best here had interesting eucalyptus andvarietal fruit and mouth- spicy varietal fruit. $30 great depth and length of flavour Ribena characters. Lovelypuckering tannins. $24 Seppelt St Peters without being blockbusters! fleshiness on the palate, withWarrenmang Grampians Shiraz excellent balance betweenBlack Puma Bendigo 2007 HHH Garden Gully Vineyard subtle oak and restrained,Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Tobacco and herbs on the St Ethel’s Grampians spicy, varietal fruit. $60Distinct wintergreen characters nose; dusty and peppery in Shiraz 2006 HHHHH Seppelt Benno Bendigoon the nose. Good depth and the mouth. Good fruit weight. Delightfully savoury nose: a Shiraz 2006 HHHHHintensity of sweet/spicy fruit A keeper. $59.99 complexity of olives, bacon, Brilliant colour with gorgeousflavours. Good wine. $80 mint and berries. Very savoury, purple hues, and lovely delicate, soy-like characters on the herbaceous aromas. Very clean palate, with excellent weight and bright in the mouth, with of varietal fruit and solid tannic excellent persistence and backbone. $50 depth of sweet berry flavours. 3-5 $54.99A real wine cellar, not just a wine sellerAustralia’sBest RetailOutlet 2009*Discover the most interesting wine and spirit storein the country for everyday bargains, hard to findwines and special back vintages.EXPERT STAFF - EXCEPTIONAL SERVICEBest Australian Retail Outlet 2009, 2008, 2006, 1999, 1996*Edinburgh Hotel and Cellars, 1 - 7 High Street Mitcham, South Australia 5062Ph + 61 (0) 8 8373 2753 Fax + 61 (0) 8 8271 8904 Email: [email protected] Website: www.edinburgh.com.au*Australian Hotels Association94 TheEd_WhalIfhNoriEz2S.indTdA1T E March/April 2010 24/7/09 3:51:27 PM

winestate regional tasting central & western victoriaTahbilk 1860 Vines Seppelt Silverband Eleven PaddocksCentral Victoria Shiraz Grampians Shiraz The McKinlay Shiraz2004 HHHHH 2006 HHH1/2 2006 HHHLovely elegant, mature, oaky Light, cool climate style with Tight and menthol-like nose,style. Cherries and spices slight mintiness on the nose and plenty of sweet fruitpushing through on the nose and white pepper notes on the flavours with a dash of pepperand the palate is showing a savoury palate. $35 and spice. $28delicious and well-integrated Cathcart Ridgeflavour profile. Still has life Estate Grampians Taltarni Pyreneesleft. 3-5 $150 Blue Pyrenees Reserve Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHH Shiraz 2005 HHHH1/2 Aromas of tobacco and mint Fragrant aromas with nice dashSeppelt Mt Ida Heathcote Lovely sweet and well-balanced and flavours of sweet fruit, of spice, and a brooding charry/Shiraz 2004 HHHHH wine with plenty of length, spices and black pepper. tarry palate. 1-2 $32Excellent wine that’s ageing excellent herbal/peppery fruit and Developing savoury notes. $58well. Lovely smoky oak well-handled oak. Nice tobacco Tahbilk Eric Taltarni Singlecharacters obvious on the nose, characters add complexity. $32 Stevens Purbrick Vineyard Heathcoteand a huge palate with good Taltarni T Series Victoria Shiraz 2004 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHHvarietal fruit, well-handled oak Shiraz 2006 HHHH Nose reminiscent of cherry Soft, gentle wine with crimsonand lovely tannins. A few years Suggestion of cherries and cola. Lovely and soft in hues. Very good example ofleft in it yet. 3-5 $54.99 berries on the nose, and alluring the mouth, with big, rich, the variety. Spicy nose; elegant sweet fruit flavours on a long seamlessly integrated flavour palate. $36Coliban Glen Heathcote and balanced palate showing a profile. $69.95Shiraz 2005 HHHH1/2 good spicy finish. $15 Blue Pyrenees Balgownie EstateInteresting wine, quite complex Shiraz 2006 HHH Bendigo Shiraz 2006 HHHand seamlessly balanced. Interesting vanilla nuances on Cherries and plums onSmoky/savoury nose with the nose, and a fruity palate with the nose, with vegetal-likeearthy/barnyardy notes and slightly green, chalky tannins. $18 flavours underscored bytoasty cherry flavours - very chalky tannins. $37.50rich, very stylish. 3-5 $24 March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 95

varietaltasting italian & spanish153 TASTED other white K1 by Geoff75 RECOMMENDED varietals & blends Hardy Gold Label Adelaide HillsAn excellent tasting of these exotic Italian and Spanish varietals, both local 24 TASTED Arneis 2009 HHHHand imported. Here we saw a great dust-up between Spanish and Australian 10 RECOMMENDED Attractive floral andtempranillos - a wonderful alternative red to our usual shiraz and cabernet Very interesting class dried herb style of winecombinations - and a special group of Spanish cava and grenache reds, along of white varietals. But with quite subtle aromaswith some unusual and interesting whites. Do yourself a favour and occasionally too many were either but plenty of up-front,step away from the norm. oxidised or had old barrel lively green apple characteristics and poor flavours. $20sparkling pinot grigio Galli Estate use of lees development. Finca Hispana La Famiglia The best, however, were Ribeiro Treixadura4 TASTED 13 TASTED Sunbury Pinot fresh and lively and made 2008 HHH1/23 RECOMMENDED 5 RECOMMENDED Grigio 2009 HHH1/2 for drinking now. Soft floral/citrus aromas Attractive floral and rich, mouth-coatingA small but good Some confusion still characters to the nose Fox Gordon Princess citrus palate - very softclass of Spanish cava, over the gris or grigio and big grassy/herbal Adelaide Hills Fiano and with resonableshowing what this styles. But still too many flavours with balancing 2009 HHHH length. $41style is producing. showed more on the sweetness. $20 Lovely perfumed nose Serafino BellissimoA definite improvement nose than the palate - like a bunch of roses. Vermentinoover previous delivered. Some worthy Beelgara Floral palate with very 2009 HHHexamples. Impressive! examples here! Black Label Pinot persistent rose oil- Grassy nose with Grigio 2009 HHH like flavours. Almost honeysuckle notes.Raventos I Blanc Pink grapefruit and gewurtz-like. $19.95 Viscous in the mouth,L’Hereu de Nit pears on the nose with clean fruitPenedes Rose Cava with a funky edge, and flavours. $182006 HHHH delicate, blossom-like Box StallionMarzipan characters flavours. $17.95 Morningtonmix with cherry notes Peninsula Arneison the nose. Earthy/ De Bortoli 2008 HHHtoasty palate with soft, Gulf Station Interesting banana/barleystrawberry-like flavours . Yarra Valley Pinot sugar-like aromas andSome complexity. $54 Grigio 2009 HHH an unusual and exotic Very lifted, fruit-driven tropical palate. $20Raventos I Blanc nose and fairly broad, La PurisimaL’Hereu Reserva citrusy palate with oily Estio Yecla MacabeoPenedes Brut Cava mouthfeel. $19 2008 HHH2006 HHH1/2 Tight, flinty and steelyLifted apple-fresh De Bortoli Windy wine with delicate floralaromas and a crisp, Peak Victoria Pinot notes. Has definitebalanced apple/pear Grigio 2008 HHH elegance. $22palate with attractive Unusual nose with Orden Tercera Ruedabiscuity/doughy yeast flinty medicinal Verdejo 2008 HHHcharacters. $37 character. Pear drops Flinty, acid-driven style on the palate. Will age with pungent aromas, well. 3-5 $14.90 and interesting tropical fruit palate. $28Vallformosa MVSAPenedes Brut Cava Serafino Bellissimo2005 HHH Pinot GrigioDelicate colour, with a 2009 HHH1/2lemon sherbet nose and Subtle citrus nose withsoft, sweet palate with slight perfumed lift andpersistent flavours. $22 mouthfilling, fleshy, pear-like flavours. Quite delicate. $1896 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

winestate varietal tasting italian & spanishMocen Rueda other red varietals Tscharke The Master Box Stallion Renards FollyVerdejo 2008 HHH Barossa Valley Mornington McLaren ValeFloral nose with green 13 TASTED Montepulciano Peninsula Dolcetto Sangiovese Cabernetbean-like notes. Oily in the 10 RECOMMENDED 2008 HHH1/2 2006 HHH 2008 HHHHmouth with tropical notes. Inky/leathery aromas Light-bodied wine with Juicy, brambly bouquetQuite complex. $30 Strong class of and big, bright, tannic spicy, perfumed aromas with nice earthy touch. very interesting red palate with very, very and menthol notes Fruit generosity andPaco & Lola Rias Mediterranean varietals ripe berry fruits. Give it a on the palate. Good sweetness on palate,Baixas Albarino (and an unusual Italian year or two! $34 example of style. $20 with nice acid/tannin2008 HHH pinot noir) with diverse Telmo Rodriguez balance. Has structureWaxy nose with styles from light to Gaba do Xil La Purisima Trapio and texture. $16.95some citrus zestiness. leathery. An exciting mix! Valdeorras Mencia Yecla Monastrell Galli EstateGenerous flavours 2007 HHH1/2 2006 HHH Heathcoteverging on treacle! $35 Borgo Cipressi Flavoursome and inviting Leathery/earthy nose Sangiovese Shiraz Tuscany mouthfilling meaty/fruity with spicy plum notes 2008 HHH1/2Castro Martin Rias Montepulciano style with reasonable which carry through to Fresh dark cherry/Baixas Albarino D’Abruzzo sweetness and some the tannic palate. Almost chocolate aromas and2007 HHH 2008 HHHH nice tannins. $32 date-like flavours. $45 medium-bodied cherryLifted, sweet guava Well-balanced, well- Madeleines fruit palate with attractivebouquet and tangy palate made, dark garnet wine Nangkita Single sangiovese flavour intensity andwith melon flavours with a lovely earthy/ Vineyard Southern & blends complexity. $20building in the mouth. $37 meaty nose and inviting Fleurieu Primitivo De Bortoli Windy berry/tannic palate with 2008 HHH 19 TASTED Peak King Valleyother red blends lovely persistence of Meaty/salami/bbq 10 RECOMMENDED Sangiovese flavour. $10.99 bouquet with some 2006 HHH1/26 TASTED sweet notes, and a Solid class with Soft, earthy, ageing1 RECOMMENDED Telmo Rodriguez luscious and grippy consistent quality wine with generous Al Muvedre tannic palate. $22 overall. Few achieved length of perfumedSome old combinations Alicante Monastrell Madeleines great heights but fruity flavours that buildhere, but only one 2008 HHHH Nangkita Single stylistically Australian along the palate. $14.90worked for the judges. Smells leathery with Vineyard Southern winemakers are All Saints Estate tobacco-like notes and Fleurieu Primitivo beginning to understand Sangiovese CabernetEl Seque Laderas is luscious and warm 2007 HHH the variety. Generally 2006 HHH1/2de El Seque Alicante in the mouth, with Tarry style with earthy/ these showed more fruit Intense, complex wineMonastrell Syrah mouthwatering cherry smoky characters on the intensity than the past. with sweet sour/cherryCabernet 2007 HHH flavours. $26 nose and a very sweet, Some imports but only fruit, good tobacco-likeLeathery, dark cherry fruity and warming one showing the way! characters and light,bouquet and quite a drying Villa Calappiano palate. $22 dusty tannins. $20earthy/savoury palate with Venta Italy Pinot Karanto Langhorne Villa Calappiano Stella Bellalots of tannin. $27 Noir 2008 HHH1/2 Creek Aglianico Italy Chianti Margaret River Barnyardy edge to the 2007 HHH 2008 HHHH Sangiovese Cabernet dark cherry nose and Earthy aromas with a Smells of chocolate 2007 HHH1/2 lovely juiciness to the perfumed character. and menthol with hints Mellow, well-integrated berry/plum palate. Crisp High acid palate with of cherries and dried bouquet and pleasant, tannins. $10.99 delicate spicy fruit herbs. Palate has sour well-balanced palate flavours. $27 cherry flavours with nice with great blend of tannic grip and good fruit flavours and silky-soft weight. $10.99 tannins. $30Derek Fitzgerald Eric Semmler judgesWinemaker for Proprietor of 919 WineThorn-Clarke wines Company. Formerly Imbi Knappsteinin the Barossa. winemaker for the Hardy Marketing exceutive withPreviously winemaker Wine Company. Previously the Spanish Acquisitionfor Bremerton (SA), with Brown Brothers import company.Ferngrove (WA), and and Auldstone Cellars. Has had five years inArrowfield (NSW) for Has spent eight years as wholesale imported winesseven years. fortified winemaker for distribution, including Hardys. Associate judge at extensive imported wine Rutherglen, McLaren Vale judging experience. and Riverland shows. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 97

winestate varietal tasting italian & spanish919 Riverland Michael Unwin grenache/ nebbiolo tempranilloSangiovese Wines Acrobat garnacha & blends & blends2008 HHH Barbera 2004 HHHH 6 TASTEDQuite a ripe sweet Very sweet, lifted aromas 8 TASTED 2 RECOMMENDED 36 TASTEDcherry nose and a palate and lovely clean, soft, 6 RECOMMENDED Can be a difficult variety 18 RECOMMENDEDwith nice gamey/meaty berry fruit palate that with its strong tannins The good winesovertones. $33 has a great spicy lift and Strong class with lots of and doesn’t need new were very good with menthol-like finish. Ageing rich, fleshy, vibrant fruit. oak. “You need good exceptional fruit,Borgo Cipressi very gracefully. $26 Artazuri Navarra fruit to carry those but the bad wereToscana Sangiovese Angullong Fossil Garnacha 2008 HHHH tannins,” noted one downright ugly! “A vast2008 HHH Hill Orange Barbera Perfumed and spicy judge. Don’t worry about improvement in theMeaty/savoury wine 2008 HHH1/2 on the nose, with a the orange tinge which is understanding of thiswith a herbal/earthy Big, soft and full, with beautifully structured typical of this variety as it variety in Australia. Goodcharacter. Reasonable black cherry aromas and palate. Great texture and ages. Good food variety. to see some importedintensity but not luscious jubey sweet fruit very well handled, high- Spanish products here.complex. $10.99 flavours supported by quality, tangy, cherry-like Serafino Single Telmo Rodriguez approachable tannins. $20 fruit. $27 Vineyard McLaren Dehesa GagoMontrose Pietra Bimbadgen Estate Alvaro Palacios Les Vale Nebbiolo Toro TempranilloMudgee Sangiovese Limited Release Terrasses Priorat 2007 HHH1/2 2008 HHHH1/22006 HHH Orange Barbera Garnacha Carinena Lovely dark berry fruit Perfumed, earthyLifted sweet cherry 2008 HHH1/2 2006 HHH1/2 threaded through with bouquet with delicatefruit, balancing oak and Cherries and chocolate Earthy raspberry aromas tarry/licorice characters. mint and herbal nuances.approachable tannins. on the nose and and lashings of generous Intense flavours and good Great expression ofGood for its age. $26.99 reasonable jubey fruit bright, fresh fruit nebbiolo tannins. $20 varietal fruit on an intense flavours. Has weight flavours, tight acid and Thorn-Clarke Morello and complex palate.Aldi Stores Villa and complexity. $25 good tannic grip. $85 Barossa Valley Bursting with black jellyMalizia Riserva Italy Broke’s Promise GranRojo Rojo Spain Nebbiolo 2006 HHH bean flavours. $32Chianti 2004 HHH Hunter Valley Garnacha 2008 HHH Inky colour with aWell-made wine, still Barbera 2007 HHH Meaty characters blend funky/earthy nose and Running With Bullsvibrant and softening Intense, perfumed, deep, with rich berry aromas. big, long, plummy Barossa Tempranillonicely with sour cherry brooding fruit aromas Palate velvety smooth, palate that “opens like a 2008 HHHHcharacters. $9.99 and dark, earthy, black with jubey flavours. $22 peacock tail!” $20 “Some great cherry flavours. $20 Palacios Remondo winemaking here,” saidbarbera Coriole Vineyards La Vendimia one judge. Inky/earthy McLaren Vale Rioja Garnacha nose and well-put-7 TASTED Barbera 2007 HHH Tempranillo together juicy berry5 RECOMMENDED Red fruit on the nose 2008 HHH palate with slightly and a long, generous Vibrant, up-front crowd chalky tannins. $18.95The judges found this berry palate with chewy pleaser with plentyflight quite consistent. tannins. $32 of sweet cherry fruitOften this variety can aromas and flavours. $30be overly acidic, but Evohe Vinas Viejasthese had good balance De Aragon Garnachaand structure at a mid- 2007 HHHweight level. Ripe, fleshy and alcoholic, with some star ratings  spicy floral characters and hints of oak. $22Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Palacios Remondoexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. La MontesaAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Rioja Garnachaprofessionals and are compared in peer Tempranilloclasses by three judges. 2006 HHHCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Ripe, fruit-driven stylea major mail-order business. but not over the top,CD Cellar door price. with nice earthy/savouryCDO Cellar door only. complexity. $45SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 136. Recommended cellaring (years).98 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

winestate varietal tasting italian & spanishHugh Hamilton The Telmo Rodriguez Vinifera Wines Gran Delgado Zuleta Handpicked WinesScoundrel McLaren Vina 105 Tinto Tempranillo La Goya Sanlucar Italy Moscato D’AstiVale Tempranillo Cigales Tempranillo Garnacha Graciano de Barrameda NV HHH1/22008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Manzanilla NV HHHH Lifted, sweet almondYou get plum and quince Gamey characters mingle 2005 HHH Interesing nutty/ripe blossom nose withpaste when you nose with blueberries and Very oaky nose with nice apple aromas and what gingery notes. Somethis lovely new age wine. crushed herbs and show sweet fruit and barrel one judge described as sweet fruit on theNice balance of plum jam floral notes. Tannins are complexity on the well- “salty seaside flavours”. palate, with slight dryingfruit and sweet oak. Very firm and drying. $30 balanced palate. $24 Has lovely complexity tannins. $19.99approachable. $24.50 Bunkers The Box and age. $18 Trentham LaSanguine Estate Margaret River Cillar De Silos Primitivo Quiles Famiglia MoscatoHeathcote Tempranillo Crianza Ribera Dei Alicante Moscatel 2009 HHHTempranillo 2008 HHH Duero Tempranillo NV (375ml) HHHH Slightly drier style with2007 HHHH Spicy, earthy and 2006 HHH Gorgeous lifted some floral muscat fruitDelightfully leathery/ chewy wine with lots Field herbs mingle marmalade bouquet and and herbal hints. Goodearthy style with good of sweet fruit and quite with tobacco and nicely balanced flavours spritzig characters. $14concentration of black a tannic grip. $20 bright cherry aromas. with caramel notesfruits and lovely sweet Galli Estate Heathcote Palate tannic, oaky and and perfect balanceoak to balance. Nice Tempranillo Grenache complex. $70 between sweetnessdusty tannins. $30 Mourvedre 2008 HHH and acidity. $18Sanguine Estate Smells of cherries Aldi Stores VinaHeathcote and new leather with Decana Crianza HandpickedTempranillo earthy notes. Big, solid, Spain Tempranillo Wines Oltrepo2006 HHHH complex palate. Good Cabernet Sauvignon Pavese MoscatoLeathery tobacco notes style. $20 2005 HHH (200ml) NV HHH1/2to the dark berry nose. Witchmount Ageing beautifully, with Sweet, lifted floral/Palate rich with fruit Tempranillo perfumed blackcurrant passionfruit bouquetshowing licorice notes 2008 HHH nose. Still very youthful, and seamless balanceand lengthy flavours. Earthy Christmas rounded blue fruit of passionfruit, appleWill age well. $30 pudding nose and lovely palate. $6.99 and acidity on theTelmo Rodriguez intensity and complexity palate. $6.50Lanzaga Rioja of varietal flavours. $29 sweet & fortifiedTempranillo Telmo Rodriguez2006 HHHH LZ Rioja Tempranillo 8 TASTEDA big tough cookie! 2008 HHH 5 RECOMMENDEDLeathery tobacco Very intense plums onaromas blended with the nose, with meaty Some very worthy winesdark berry/plum fruit. notes. Complexity of dark here. “Aussie producersBig, full-bodied palate. jube fruit flavours. $30 could look at someDrink now - it won’t get Angove Family of these moscatos,”any better! $57 Winemakers Nine suggested the judges.Artadi Vinas De Gain Vines South Australia And at the dry and sweetRioja Tempranillo Tempranillo Shiraz ends, try a very good2006 HHHH 2007 HHH Manzanillo sherry and aVery concentrated, Spicy, perfumed sweet moscatel.sweet, brooding black aromas with a raspberryfruit nose and intense lift. Rich, sweet andblackberry palate with powerful black fruithints of violets. Quite palate. $14.99tannic but has some Telmo Rodriguezelegance. $74 Gago ToroLa Rioja Alta S.A. TempranilloRiserva Vina Ardanza 2007 HHHRioja Tempranillo Slightly closed nose;Grenache 2000 HHHH leathery/cherry hints.Very developed, ageing, Grippy palate withearthy wine, yet still has luscious blue fruitsome freshness with flavours. $32intense fruit flavours andsilky-smooth tannins. $75 March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 99

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINbarossa valley & eden valleyNEW NAME WITH HERITAGE MEETS MODERN OLD CHURCH RESURRECTEDOLD CONNECTIONS SEPPELTSFIELD Vineyard Cottage is CHARLES Melton Wines recently openedMURRAY Street Vineyards may be one a slice of rural luxury in the heart of the stunning new vineyard accommodation inof the newest names in the impressive Barossa Valley vineyards - it’s rustic but the original Krondorf village church, whichline-up of Barossa Valley wineries, but wonderfully comfortable, with vineyard dates back 145 years. The former Lutheranit is being run by a member of one of views and geese in the garden. Owners Church, once the centre of village life,the region’s oldest families: winemaker Peter Milhinch and Sharyn Rogers, who has been transformed into a stylish two-Andrew Seppelt, who has worked for make wines under the Milhinch Wines bedroom vineyard retreat and is set up forStuart Blackwell of St Hallett and Robert label, live on an adjacent property and offer long or short-term stays. It is known as TheO’Callaghan of Rockford as well as doing friendly, personalised service. Kirche - kirche being German for church.vintages in the US and France, along withhis wife Vanessa. Everything is on hand for self-catering A full-sized bath overlooking the vines in a lovely heritage cottage, winner is the ideal spot to relax, along with a verandah that is almost within touching distance of the vines. The original vestry has been extended to encompass a full kitchen with Angaston black granite benches, a 900mm oven and hotplates and a large double refrigerator with ice/ chilled water capacity. Rates start from $370 per night. Phone (08) 8563 3606; www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au. The Murray Street tasting room recently of 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2009 South STYLE WITH AFFORDABILITYunderwent a refurbishment with new Australian Tourism Awards. But therepaintwork, furniture and an intimate new are also modern luxuries on hand, THE NOVOTEL Barossa Valley ResortVIP room, even though the facility is less including a Bose entertainment system, overlooks the vineyards of Jacob’s Creekthan six years old. The two impressive iPod docking station, king bed with white and offers affordable style and comfort instone buildings were crafted by a local linen, espresso machine and a lovely the heart of the action. The resort featuresstonemason with stone sourced from Murray modern bathroom with double shower, a choice of room configurations fromStreet Vineyards’ own Gomersal Estate. under-floor heating, deep rainwater studios, studio rooms with spa and two- bath and French doors which open to bedroom apartments. Rooms for disabled Visitors are offered seated tastings of vineyard views. people are also available. Rooms havewines including the new 2007 The Barossa, private balconies, air-conditioning, in-a blend of shiraz, grenache, mataro and Dining options include a traditional house movies, Austar channels, internetcinsaut grapes, and are invited to then sit Barossa platter or barbecue platter for access, direct-dial phones, tea andback and relax with a glass of wine and a regional dinners, or a simple cheese plate. coffee making facilities and refrigerator.seasonal plate or two, probably featuring All can be booked in advance. There’sbread from the local Apex bakery and even a cottage cellar, while the excellent Harry’s restaurant serves buffet breakfastscheese from a cheesemaker in Greenock. Appellation at The Louise, one of regional and al a carte modern Australian cuisineAlso look out for locally smoked meats, dill Australia’s best restaurants, is just a couple for lunch and dinner, while Gramp’s Barcucumbers pickled according to an old of minutes away. serves tapas-style platters from 5pmfamily recipe and quince jelly made from until late. Phone (08) 8524 0000; www.quinces grown just outside the tasting It pays to book the cottage well in novotelbarossa.com.room door. Phone (08) 8562 8373; www. advance as it is understandably popular.murraystreet.com.au. Phone (08) 8563 4059; www.seppeltsfield Meanwhile, anyone visiting the Barossa vineyardcottage.com.au. should get hold of a copy of the 2010 Barossa Regional Guide - with all the latest information on tourism operations in the region. The guide is available for downloading at www.barossa. com and is on the shelves at all South Australian Visitor Information Centres.100 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010