Winestate Magazine Annual 2011

ANNUAL 2011 WINESTATE VOL 34 ISSUE 1 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2010 IN REVIEW ANNUALEdition 2011PRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 ASIA ON THE CONFRONTING ACCELERATOR THE CHALLENGES MARKET’S RAPID EXPANSION POSES 2010 IN REVIEW GREAT CHALLENGES FOR EXPORTERS Special Feature Annual 2011 VOL 34 Issue 1 WINE OF THE YEAR $11.00 AUS (inc GST) WRAP-UP NZ $12.00 SGD $16.00 US $11.00 UKP/EUR 9.00 The pick of the crop from over 10,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2010

CONGRATWINESTATE MAGAZINE ‘WINEWinners/Trophy Wine of the Year Winner 2010 - GOLD Pinot Gris/Grigio Category WinnerAustralian Winery of the Year 2010 Lake Breeze Langhorne Creek Cabernet Wine of the Year 2010De Bortoli Sauvignon 2007 Greystone Sand Dollar Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2010Australian Wine Maker of the Year 2010 Wine of the Year Runner Up 2010 - SILVERNick Haselgrove Rosemount Show Reserve Cool Climate Riesling Category Winner– Adelaide Winemakers, Clarendon Release Robe Chardonnay 2009 Wine of the Year 2010 Kettle Lane Tasmanian Riesling 2009New Zealand Winery of the Year 2010 Sparkling Category WinnerSaint Clair Family Estate Wine of the Year 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Category Winner Margrain La Michelle Methode Wine of the Year 2010New Zealand Winemaker of the Year 2010 Traditionnelle 2007 Vavasour Awatere Valley MarlboroughMatt Thomson – Saint Clair Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010WINE SHIELD IS THEPERFECT PROTECTIONFOR AWARD WINNINGWINES BY THE GLASS.Wine Shield keeps wine fresh by dramatically slowing the oxidation process that spoils opened wine.Simply slip a Wine Shield disc into the bottle. It floats on the surface creating a barrier between the wineand the air space. Because taste and aroma is retained, wine experts are among its biggest fans.Order direct and keep your wine tasting fresh -HBT/WPR089/R

ULATIONSOF THE YEAR’ WINNERS.Semillon Category Winner Merlot Category Winner Sweet White Category WinnerWine of the Year 2010 Wine of the Year 2010 Wine of the Year 2010Pokolbin Estate Hunter Valley Semillon 2005 Kim Crawford Small Parcels Corner John Forrest Collection Brancott Valley 50 Merlot 2008 Marlborough Noble Riesling (375ml) 2006Chardonnay Category WinnerWine of the Year 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Category Winner Fortified Category WinnerRosemount Show Reserve Cool Climate Wine of the Year 2010 Wine of the Year 2010Release Robe Chardonnay 2009 Lake Breeze Langhorne Creek Cabernet Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rutherglen Sauvignon 2007 Amontillado Sherry (500ml) NVPinot Noir Category WinnerWine of the Year 2010 Shiraz Category WinnerCraggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard Wine of the Year 2010Martinborough Pinot Noir 2008 Saltram No.1 Barossa Shiraz 2006right to the last glass. www.wineshield.com.au



NO.239 ANNUAL 2011Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Mike JaenschAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Production Aaron Bodycote E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Sue Lumb E-mail: [email protected] DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Graeme Andrews, Valmai HankelVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael CooperNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] & Advertising website www.winestate.com.auNSW, South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaJamie O’Keeffe - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] Come and enjoy antipasti or un piattoAustralia di pasta for lunch or dinner in our newGordon and Gotch Australia P/L Spuntini Bar with a wide selection ofNew Zealand imported Italian wines, beers, cocktailsIndependent Magazine Distributors and drinks.InternationalDAI Rubicon Take advantage of our lunch specialHong Kong & China Tuesday - FridayEverwise Wine Limited 2 courses $39 | 3 courses $49UKComag *not valid with any discountsBRAZILWalker Distribution Contact us on 8410 9332 or emailUSA [email protected] www.auge.com.auSource Interlink International Ristorante | Spuntini BarWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Tues to Fri 12 - 3 & 6 - late Sat 6 - late.81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Sunday afternoon trading in the SpuntiniCopyright 2011 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole Bar starts in November 2010, 4pm till lateor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsANNUAL 2011FEATURES THE YEAR IN THE 139 TASMANIA: REAR-VIEW MIRROR Great white hopes24 Barossa puts its foot in the door of the With fruit prices buoyant, the pinot noirs in vast Asian market After another roller-coaster ride for the great shape and the whites clamouring for With the Asian wine market mushrooming, Antipodean wine industries in 2010, our writers attention, the Tasmanian industry was on a Peter Lehmann Wines has found a clever look at the pluses and minuses state by state and roll in 2010, writes Graeme Phillips. But the and very personal way to send its message across the Tasman. biggest news was a $32.5 million splurge by to the masses on our doorstep. D. Paul Victoria’s Brown Brothers at Tamar Ridge. Hardy speaks to two influential Asians who 95 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: became part of that strategy. Gains with some pain 143 NEW ZEALAND: While volume was down in vintage 2010, Deceptively buoyant28 Delights and disappointments on a sweet grape quality was up, but South Australian Superficially, thanks to soaring imports and Sicilian journey grapegrowers remained under pressure. growing ranks of producers, the wine picture In pursuit of the legendary sweet wines D. Paul Hardy scours the state, from wine in New Zealand is bright and sunny, says known as passitos, Andre Pretorius journeys companies big to boutique, and finds optimism Michael Cooper. That’s an illusion, though, around the island of Sicily in the Tyrrhenian and innovation mixed with disappointment. because of the dark clouds of oversupply Sea and encounters some cloying and shrinking prices. impersonators as well as the exquisite nectar 115 VICTORIA: that captivated Alexandre Dumas. Confronting the challenges PLUS-THE BEST While the weather generally was relatively OF THE BEST32 Rapid Oriental expansion poses great kind to Victorian winemakers in 2010, they challenges for exporters now face a challenge from radical climate We revisit the most outstanding wines - rated France may be in the driver’s seat as sales change legislation. Jeni Port outlines four stars and above - that we tasted in 2010. leader, although Australia is catching up and what this means as she tracks the state’s other nations are vigorously chasing a share progress and prospects. 47 Best of Styles of the lucrative Asian wine market. But, as 78 Best of New Releases Denis Gastin explains, there are plenty of 121 NEW SOUTH WALES: 94 Best of South Australia pitfalls amid the fattening profits. Home-grown happiness 114 Best of Victoria A patriotic strategy to get New South Wales 120 Best of New South Wales36 WINE OAFwTaHrEdsYE2A0R10 people to buy their own state’s wines is 126 Best of Western Australia SPECIAL WOYA FEATURE paying handsome dividends, writes Winsor 134 Best of Queensland The outstanding Australian and New Dobbin. And there was plenty of good news 138 Best of Tasmania Zealand wines, winemakers and wine out of regions from the long-established 142 Best of New Zealand companies of 2010 have been duly Hunter to the excitingly go-ahead Hilltops. 154 Michael Cooper’s Best of 2010 Releases honoured in Winestate’s Wine of the Year awards. We present a four-page pictorial 127 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: R E G U L A R S special on the presentation night. Some joy, no jubilation Even the premium Margaret River region was battered as Western Australian wine 10 Briefs companies encountered myriad problems 16 European Report with Sally Easton stemming from the grape glut. However, as 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Mike Zekulich reveals, there are signs of 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King renewed hope beneath the somber facade. 22 Wine History with Valmai Hankel 40 Grapevine 135 QUEENSLAND: 35 Wine Investment & Collecting Proudly patriotic 48 What’s it Worth? Queensland’s discerning wine consumers now have their own temple of good taste, the Queensland Wine Centre in Brisbane. As Paula Tewksbury explains, the centre is the shining light in an increasingly prosperous and imaginative industry. 50 How We Judge 93 Subscription Form Winestate Magazine 170 Aftertaste Issue Number 239 Annual 2011 Cover photograph © Hans Wretling.

It’s not what we say that’s important.It is what our customer’s say about us that counts!The decision to use Collotype We are extremely pleased as our label supplier of with the new labelchoice was reaffirmed by the produced at Collotype. commitment to excellence A remarkable effort byshown throughout the Oyster the project team and ourBay sparkling project, and the thanks to all involved. outstanding result achieved. Rob Hassan, Robert Jonas Steen, Oyster Bay Oatley Vineyards. Marketing Director. Collotype assisted in all It is so gratifying to finally stages of the project with release these sparkling wines. particular assistance on the neck shape working on It was essential that our the bottling line. Design labels match the quality translation into the finished in the bottle, something product was never at risk Collotype was able to with Collotype. greatly assist us with. Ben Tolstoshev, The Lane. Ed Carr, House of Arras More than just a label. Master Winemaker. After a lot of development work with Collotype we have created a stunning label! Many thanks to the team for their hard work and suggestions. I’m absolutely thrilled with the end result! Heather Mitchell, Pinnacle Creative.(08) 8405 0500 [email protected] www.collotype.com

It’s all about innovationAmcor GlassFor more information contactAmcor Glass Customer ServicePh (08) 8521 [email protected]

editorialI F YO U A R E R E A D I N G T H I S you are one of the elite fewwho search for the best wine buys, with quality being a major factor.Although value plays a part, not for you are the sledgehammerclaims of big retailers who say, “No matter how cheap are thewines from our opposition, ours are even cheaper.” You have noticed that cheap imports are increasing (but may notknow that supermarkets are gaining a 60 per cent profit margin onsubsidised imports compared to 30 per cent on the local product,so their recommendations are suspect at the very least). Andobscure ‘buyer’s own brands’ are also increasing to attract thenon-discriminatory customer. You realise that ultimately everyone deserves their place in the sun,and if we drive our favourite wineries too hard they will eventuallybreak and go out of business. Some, to survive, will downgradetheir products and hope you don’t notice. We cater to the five per cent of the market that represents2000 or so wineries - and you are one of their supporters.Interestingly, it doesn’t mean you are not interested in thequality wines from the bigger companies, or indeed have yourcheaper ‘house wines’ that you drink on a regular basis. It is just that you have a discerning interestin quality wine above that of the ‘bottom feeders’, where price is the major factor. You search out thebetter wines from your area of interest or price point positioning. You are elite in the sense that you are seen as the ‘expert’ within your peer group and have the abilityto influence many others around you. (Use this power for good and not for evil). It does mean that youare a very important person who can defend and foster the concept of wine quality at every level. Mayyou flourish and thrive! In this issue we are proud to present all our best wines of the past year, as judged in our many regional,style (by varietals or blends) and new release tastings that cover all the regions around Australiaand New Zealand. This time we re-sort and reassemble the wines into state order, giving a differentperspective to the results. Each state review is preceded by an overview from one of our expert writers,summarising that state’s wine activities over the past year. We are indeed fortunate that in Australia and New Zealand we have a competitive culture of tastingcompetitions, where wines are judged blind against each other. It is a credit to the winemakers that theyallow their ‘babies’ to be judged time after time, and to subject themselves to occasional disappointment.It strengthens their discipline to produce great wine and ultimately the consumer benefits in all ways. Winestate tastings, where we judge more than 10,000 wines blind each year, is part of the judging sceneand we like to think we play our part in improving the breed and bringing a little more clarity and focus on thewines that rise above the pack. You deserve nothing less. Life is to short to drink bad wine!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherAnnual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsTOP WINE, TOP DOLLAR ‘EXCEPTIONAL’ NEWCOMERSAT $700 a bottle, Torbreck’s The Laird LANGTON’S updated Classification of Australian Wines saw a lot more happy2005 Barossa Shiraz has officially wine producers moving up into the top class of ‘exceptional’ wines. Newbecome Australia’s most expensive chums include Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz, Chris Ringland’s Barossanew release wine for 2010. Winemaker Shiraz, Clarendon Hills Astralis Syrah, Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Giacondaand Torbreck founder David Powell Chardonnay, Grosset Polish Hill Riesling and Torbreck RunRig Shiraz. Theyprofesses to have been completely are now considered by Australian wine buyers to be in the same league asunaware of the wine’s new celebrity Penfolds Grange, Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot, Henschke Hill ofstatus. He says the wine was almost Grace and Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay.entirely sold before word got out. Only400 cases of The Laird were made - 250 The classification is released every five years and is based on thedozen in 750ml bottles and the rest in performance of Australian wines at Langton’s auctions. To be eligible, themagnum and larger format - from old vines in Malcolm Seppelt’s Barossa vineyard. wines must have been made for 10 years or more. Overall, this year’s release - Classification V - saw 33 new listings. Many of them, like Kaesler Old Bastard The super-premium wine with its super-premium price tag has brought Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, highlight the move by drinkers and collectorsDavid some unwanted criticism, especially for suggesting to the media that into acknowledging old-vine shiraz as Australia’s leading wine style.the wine will sell for thousands of dollars within the next decade. “I walk downthe street in the Barossa and people say, ‘Who do you think you are?’ The tall ICING ON TAHBILK’S CAKEpoppy syndrome in Australia is alive and well. If this was America they wouldbe saying ‘Good on ya for raising the bar’.” TAHBILK has capped off a major year of celebrations for its 150thSAINTLY SHIPMENT birthday with Victorian Premier John Brumby laying a commemorativeCOONAWARRA winemakers celebrated the recent canonisation of Mary plaque in front of the cellar door atMackillop - Australia’s first saint - with a shipment of wines to Rome. The wines the historic winery outside Nagambie.were part of the canonisation festivities overseen by Australia’s ambassador to The Purbrick family, who have ownedthe Holy See, Tim Fischer, and also took in the opening of the new chancery Tahbilk since 1925, have a proudof the Australian Embassy at the Vatican. history of commemorating major events. In 1960, Eric Purbrick held a Mary Mackillop arrived in the Coonawarra township of Penola and co- lunch to commemorate the winery’sfounded the Sisters of St Joseph of the Sacred Heart in 1866. She spent 100th birthday and deposited athe rest of her life devoted to helping and educating the rural poor. Over cache of wines - a shiraz and athe years, many Coonawarra winemakers-to-be attended the school, so her marsanne from the 1960 vintage - into a cavity in the cellar wall. The thenrecent canonisation was the cause of much pride and celebration, with a prime minister, Sir Robert Menzies, was special guest. The winery’s currentnumber of Coonawarra producers attending the Vatican ceremony, which chief executive, Alister Purbrick, was just six years old at the time.was also screened live during a big weekend of celebrations in the town.SIMON HACKETT Fourth generation, Barossa Valley born, Winemaker TRADE ENQUIRIES: Simon Hackett established his winery on a fertile hill S.A. Chace Agencies 08 8363 7881 [email protected] overlooking McLaren Vale over 20 years ago. Simon VIC Working Wine 0407 053 663 [email protected] Hackett produces a stunning range of wines including NSW Estate Wine Distributors [email protected] the very popular limited release Anthony's Reserve QLD Estate Wine Distributors 0405 106 207 [email protected] Shiraz and Foggo Road Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. UK & Europe - ABS Wine Agencies [email protected] Drop into the cellar door for a tasting and take in the Hong Kong - Vins de France Corp (ABS Asia Ltd) [email protected] stunning panoramic views. Simon Hackett Wines, Budgens Road, McLaren Vale (08) 8323 7712 [email protected] W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

briefsTRAVEL GUIDE’S TRIUMPHS VAST VINEYARD FOR SALEIT’S BEEN a busy month for Australia’s first online culinary travel guide, VisitVineyards. THE FAMILY of the late Alan Hickinbotham, who died in May, has put one ofcom. First, the website, with 28,000 subscribers, joined an alliance with motoring Australia’s biggest privately owned vineyards up for sale. The 716-hectarebodies RACV (Victoria) and RACT (Tasmania) to give its members cellar door and Paringa Vineyard near Renmark in South Australia is planted to 317 hectaresgeneral discounts in their travels through wine regions. The arrangement also works of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay.with AAA members in Australia and worldwide. The announcement was quickly Despite the industry glut and financial doldrums, the sale of the property isfollowed by the website’s founder, Robyn Lewis, picking up the Nokia Business expected to create much interest inside and outside Australia. The availabilityInnovation Award for Tasmania at the 2010 Telstra Business Women’s Awards. of 300 hectares suitable for vines could also be an attractive feature forThe award recognises the role of innovation to business growth. Innovation was some potential investors.definitely a key to Robyn’s success. “Raising capital as a Tasmanian was extremelydifficult; doubly so being a woman,” she said after receiving her award. Alan Hickinbotham was well-known as the founder of one of Australia’s largest home builders, Hickinbotham Homes. His father, also Alan, co-founded theSHEDDING THE FORMALITIES country’s first oenology course at Roseworthy College and the family has been making and selling wine under its own Paringa Vineyard label for many years.AUSTRALIA has more than enough wine shows but it can always do with a wine Expressions of interest close on November 19 at Elders Adelaide.show that is strictly for ‘fun’. And there are no white-coated judges either. The KingValley Shed Wine Show is open to both amateur and professional winemakers and ITALIAN INSPIRATIONthe wines are judged by the public. The 2010 show attracted 84 wines from 15 KingValley wineries and several keen amateur makers. Winner of the Best Shed Wine SYDNEY’S love affair with all thingswas a 2009 shiraz made by Trevor Dinning from grapes off his Greta vineyard. Best Italian shows no sign of slowingwhite was the 2008 Brown Brothers Patricia Noble Riesling, best red was Brown down, with the opening of a secondBrothers’ 2008 Tempranillo and best small maker was Rose Hill Estate with a 2008 Bacco Wine Bar Pasticceria in themerlot made by Jo Hale. In keeping with the show’s down-home approach, the Queen Victoria Building. Ownerwinners received fertiliser, fermentation tanks, label printing and meal vouchers. George Michael was inspired to create Bacco by a trip to Italy. Like itsTASMANIAN SCHOLARSHIP Chifley Plaza sibling, the new Bacco features marble floors and benchtops,THE TASMANIAN wine industry has announced a new annual scholarship to polished timber features and importedpromote sustainable wine growing in that state. The $10,000 Don Martin Sustainable Italian grape lights. All the food isViticulture Fellowship will be available in 2011 to Tasmanian-based practising house-made, with the bar menuprofessionals working in the wine sector. The award, announced by the Alcorso including spicy meatballs and curedFoundation and using a bequest from Dr Don Martin’s estate, will make it possible kingfish with orange spring herbs.for the winner to travel outside the state for experience or study. Dr Martin was a The wine list features Old World andCSIRO scientist instrumental in the development of the Tasmanian wine industry. New World classics and there is a large cocktail menu. Bacco is at Level 2, QVB, 225 George St, Sydney; phone (02) 9223 9552; www.bacco.com.au.IT’S HEATING UP, DON’T LET YOUR WINE! Most people have 6 to 12 bottles of wine that should not be kept at home. Those special wines you have been holding onto for years, waiting for that special occasion to pull the cork (or twist the cap as it may be). FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE A MONTH Wine Ark provides: > CLIMATE CONTROLLED MANAGED STORAGE > FULL INSURANCE > 24 HOUR ONLINE ACCESS > HAVE WINE SENT DIRECTLY TO YOUR CELLAR > SELL YOUR WINE ONLINE FROM YOUR ACCOUNT > MANY MORE BENEFITS 1800 946 327 or visit www.wine-ark.com.au wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsHILLS’ FESTIVAL OPENER CHAMPAGNE CHAMPIONSTHE NEW season of wine and foodfestivals doesn’t take long to swing into THE 2010 Vin de Champagnegear, with the 2011 Crush event in the Awards for the best champagneAdelaide Hills kicking off on Sunday, palates in Australia have beenJanuary 30. The lead-up to Crush also won. Greg Plowes, sommelier atfeatures a series of masterclasses Tetsuya’s in Sydney, took out theand special events from January 26. professional category, ProfessorAmong the highlights are Howard Tim Sullivan from the Royal BrisbaneVineyard’s ‘Flights and Bites’ event and Women’s Hospital the amateurmatching gourmet food with wines, section and Yuri Berns from CurtinSinclair’s Gully twilight tasting of University in Western Australia‘Oysters and Fizz’, and Barratt Wines the student category. The winnersand Bistro 25’s garden luncheon. receive a two-week educational tour to the Champagne district, Adam Liaw, the South Australian where they receive their medalswinner of MasterChef, will also be from the Comite Champagne and enjoy the Champenois hospitality.involved, having created recipes to go with local wines. “I grew up in theAdelaide Hills so it’s a region that I am very passionate about,” he says. “The The award has run for over 30 years and has produced some of the finestwhole region really comes alive for the Crush festival. It’s a great chance for champagne palates in the world. Chef Justin North of Becasse in Sydneypeople to discover the real Adelaide Hills region and experience the pleasure prepared a six-course dinner at the awards ceremony with dishes matchedof its fabulous food and wine at your pace for the day.” to 13 champagnes from the houses of Ayala, Bollinger, Charles Heidsieck, G.H. Mumm, Henriot, Lanson, Louis Roederer, Moet et Chandon, Nicolas Other highlights include festivities at Petaluma with a degustation-style lunch, Feuillatte, Pol Roger, Ruinart, Taittinger and Veuve Clicquot.summery plates and jazz from the Billparton Trio which guests can enjoy from Australia, meanwhile, remains in the top 10 markets for importing champagne,the deck or on the grass; and The Lofty Heights of Lenswood event co-hosted by finishing ninth on 2009 figures.Henschke Lenswood, Pike & Joyce and Mount Lofty Ranges Vineyard. This eventwill be held at the Pike & Joyce Vineyard, with a gourmet barbecue, wines availableby the glass and bottle and entertainment from Black Magic trio, art classes withJim Sullivan and Henschke masterclasses at 11.30am, 1.30pm and 3.30pm ($30per person). For more information visit www.adelaidehillswine.com.au.BAROSSA’S BIG BASHTHE BAROSSA Vintage Festival - Australia’s largest and longest-running wineand food event - turns 64 in 2011. The festival will run from Good Friday, April22, and feature seven days of fun, food and wine in the Barossa, with morethan 100 events. See www.barossavintagefestival.com.au.ROLL UP FOR LESSONS HYDE PARK’S BIG CELLARTHE GOLD Coast hinterland SYDNEY Cellar Door, which is promoted as the largest-ever gatheringhas a new gourmet attraction: of New South Wales winemakers, has been scheduled for Sunday,the Tamborine Food and Wine February 27, in Hyde Park, and is the first event of NSW Wine Week. TheExperience. The package includes public tasting, which traditionally attracts thousands of food and winetwo nights’ accommodation for two aficionados, runs from 11am to 6pm.at Witches Falls Cottages, includinga choice of gourmet or barbecue The alfresco event features live entertainment plus gourmet food stallsbreakfast hamper, a cooking class at from leading restaurants and producers. The main focus is on wine, andthe Tamborine Cooking School with over 100 premium wineries from the state’s 14 regions will be showingprofessional chef Terri Taylor for two off their wares. Tasting ticket packages start at $25, which includes aadults, plus transfer by Rolls-Royce souvenir tasting glass and five tasting coupons. The $30 package isto the school in the morning and exclusive use of the limo until the afternoon. aimed at couples and includes two glasses and five coupons. Extra coupons are available in sheets of five for $20 each. Tickets can be The package price for two adults midweek is $760, and $860 on weekends. purchased online at www.nswwineweek.com.au or on the day. A series ofParticipants also visit the new Queensland Wine Centre nearby, with around NSW wine region dinners will be hosted by leading Sydney restaurants100 wines and 14 Queensland wineries represented. Witches Falls Cottages from February 27 to March 5.are at 132 Main Western Rd, North Tamborine; phone (07) 5545 4411; www.witchesfallscottages.com.au.12 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

briefsBACK TO BEGINNINGS COCKATOO RIDGE REVIVEDPETER Caldwell has returned to one THE TROUBLED South Australian Cockatoo Ridge label has been saved byof the first wineries at which he worked the intervention of national distributor Fine Wine Partners, which has taken overto take a key role in the Hill-Smith management and control. First launched in 1990, Cockatoo Ridge expandedfamily’s Tasmanian operation, having rapidly but went into voluntary administration in early 2010 and administratorsbeen named vigneron at the family’s later signed a deal with creditors to ensure the brand’s survival. CockatooDalrymple winery. Ridge now has new funding and will be totally managed by Fine Wine Partners, Peter’s passion for cool-climate including all future sales strategies in the retail and on-premise channels.varieties like pinot noir and Winemaker Rod Hooper maintains control of all winemaking decisions.chardonnay started in Tasmaniawhen he worked at Heemskerk MUDGEE MERGERand Dalrymple in the early 1990s.After completing his studies he worked vintages in the US and France TWO of Mudgee’s leading wine labelsbefore taking up a permanent position as winemaker/viticulturist at Te have joined forces under the guidingKairanga Wines in Martinborough, New Zealand. After a decade in that hand of experienced winemaker Davidrole, he spent two years at Josef Chromy before being selected to oversee Lowe. Lowe Family Wines from Mudgeethe Dalrymple operation in the Pipers River region, where he will be and Louee Wines from nearby Rylstoneresponsible for the vineyard, viticulture and winemaking. have merged, with the new winemaking Yalumba chief winemaker Louisa Rose says the establishment of the new and marketing entity trading under theposition signals “the next important step in the journey of Dalrymple”. name of Lowe Wines. David, president Natalie Fryar, who added the Dalrymple winemaking role to her of the NSW Wine Industry Association,responsibilities as winemaker for Jansz Tasmania, will revert to her former had been making Louee’s wines for 10role overseeing the Jansz operation. “We acknowledged from the beginning years, using grapes from the Loueethat pinot noir is a different beast and would ultimately require a dedicated vineyards in Rylstone (620m) and Nullo Mountain (1100m), one of Australia’srather than a shared viti-vini person to nurture and represent the vines and highest vineyards. “This is a significant remodelling of our businesses,” he says.wines,” says Robert Hill-Smith, who describes Peter Caldwell as “a good “We have been experiencing steady growth in both businesses but as a combinedman, perfect for the role and up for the challenge”. He says Natalie “goes entity we are in a much stronger position to achieve our goals of producing theback to winemaking and evangelising for Jansz Tasmania full-time and best wines from Mudgee and taking them to market.”without distraction!” Meanwhile, Frogmore Creek has taken over neighbouring Meadowbank in Having worked closely with Len Evans at Rothbury Estate, David has been inthe Coal River Valley, previously owned by Gerald Ellis and his family. The business on his own since 1987 and the Lowe brand was accredited as an organicdeal was finalised in early November, but did not include Meadowbank’s winery in 2004. The Louee vineyards were founded by Rod James and Tony MaxwellGlenora Vineyard. in 1998 with the objective of making small parcels of cool-climate, high-altitude wines. “We have a great relationship with David, so the merger of our winemaking and marketing was a logical progression,” says Louee owner Rod James. The Bully is back, this Christmas. But not for long... Introducing the new look Barristers Block Cellar door sales and tastings, open seven days Limited Release 2009 Bully Shiraz. all year round, 11am – 5pm. 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside, S.A. Pre order now to ensure you don’t miss your opportunity to secure the Bully. It’s back, Ph: +618 8389 7706 but not for long. facebook.com/barristersblock barristersblock.com.au It is with great pride that we present our world class, estate grown wines for you to judge. Barristers Block Premium Wines, Discover the vision.BBW98BBW98 The Bully Is Back Winestate Annual 91x208.indd 1 26/11/10 1:31:26 PM Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs DINNER FOR A DOZEN TUSCAN TEMPTATION M A N LY ’ S Q S t a t i o n re s o r t TONY Carter, formerly executive overlooking Sydney Harbour has director of food and beverages for launched a series of exclusive Accor, the largest hotel group in Chef’s Table six-course degustation Australia and New Zealand, has dinners at its Boilerhouse launched a new gourmet holiday restaurant. Chef de Cuisine Amit company aimed at Australians Laud will host dinners for 12 at a with a passion for all things Italian. long table beside the restaurant’s Culinary Interludes is a boutique open kitchen. Each dinner will offer holiday experience in the hills a chance to talk with the chef and of Tuscany that aims to immerse hear about the technique behind participants in the traditions andeach dish, and each month a different wine expert or winemaker will culture of Italy.serve matched wines and discuss them. Menus and wines will change with each dinner, reflecting new themes Led by Tony and Italian teacherand the seasonality of premium produce. “We’ll create a new experience Serena Vecchiet, holidays willfor guests, taking them through a progression of different flavours, textures include meals at restaurants knownand phases,” says Amit, who has worked in New Zealand and at Burj only to locals, selecting fresh produce at lively markets, meeting cheeseAl Arab in Dubai. The dinners cost $149 per person including wines. artisans and olive growers, visiting wineries and vineyards and learningFor information phone (02) 9466 1500. to cook in the vast farm-style kitchen of Villa Aquilea in the hills outside Lucca. A cooking class at the acclaimed Villa Bongi, under the direction WESTEND CHIEF’S of chef Marco Ribechini, will also be included. NEW HONOUR Each Culinary Interludes experience lasts for a week and includes all THE AWARDS keep piling up for cooking lessons, accommodation, wines and excursions. Prices, excluding Westend Estate winemaker Bill air fares, transport to Lucca and some other expenses, start at $2800. See Calabria. The latest addition to his www.culinaryinterludes.com. swag is the Jason Lea Award from the 2010 Family Business Awards, HUNTER’S CHOICES EXPAND which were created to celebrate the achievements of family businesses HUNTER wine country is awash with new eateries and cellar doors, and their contribution to the including the Log Press Cafe at Drayton’s cellar door and the new pizza economy and culture of Australia. menu at Tilly’s Gourmet Pizza Cafe, part of the Emma’s Cottage complex The Jason Lea Award is in memory at Lovedale.of the late Jason Lea, who was a driving force behind the Darrell Leachocolate empire and national chairman of the Family Business Awards. The latest opening is Emerson’s at Pokolbin, the new offering from former“This is truly a fantastic achievement to be placed on the same level of Peppers Guest House head chef Emerson Rodriguez. Emerson’s is part of thesuch a great entrepreneur (Jason Lea),” said Bill Calabria, whose immigrant Casuarina Estate property on Hermitage Rd and offers tapas for lunch andparents founded Westend Estate in 1945 in Griffith. contemporary Australian cuisine with the option of an eight-course degustation menu on Friday and Saturday nights.SMALL PRODUCERS’ BIG IDEA Among the newer options for wine lovers are winery tours at LeoGateHUNTER Valley winemaker Peter Howland is behind a new online wine Wines, which is based at the Tempus Two complex while its own winerysales concept called Hidden Talent Wines. He has teamed with other small and cellar door are under construction. Owners Bill and Vicki Widin havewinemakers to put together small batches of boutique wines that are sold - like purchased the famous Brokenback vineyard and winemaker Mark Woodscleanskins, or wines offered by retailers Kemeny’s under their Hidden Label is working on releasing Tamed, Australia’s first premium low-alcohol label,range - without details of the producer appearing on the label. as one of four ranges. Tours are held from Thursday-Saturday at 11am. “The wines come direct from the producer, much like an online growers’market,” Peter explains. “They are too good to go under the winemakers’ labelat this price, so the producer’s names are hidden. As a small winemaker, Iknow how difficult it is to compete in the current wine marketplace where thepricing is now dominated by the $10-15 range. Hidden Talent Wines givessmall producers an avenue to sell their wines directly without the need tocompromise quality or image - and unlike the lucky dip of cleanskins, we canguarantee that every bottle has been carefully made and selected basedsolely on quality.” See www.hiddentalentwines.com.14 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

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europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWCRU BOURGEOIS STANDS UP FOR THE MIDDLE CLASS AGAININ FRANCE, the term ‘cru bourgeois’ has been straightforward cru bourgeois. Applications to be millerandage, or ‘hen and chickens’, where therejuvenated. Having suffered troubled times in the part of this new classification had been received abnormal fruit set results in small and large berriesfirst decade of the 21st century, this historic term from 490 chateaux. Several of those chateaux which on the same bunch. Delphine de la Fouchardiere,has emerged as a new appointment of Bordeaux had not been successful were upset, and made a export manager for estate owner and negociantred wines. It was historically a group of growers claim in the French courts that the process had not Albert Bichot said, “The flowering lasted two weekswhose wines sat beneath the classed growths of been completely fair. Four years later, in 2007, the rather than one. Millerandage reduced the yields bythe 1855 classification. classification was annulled, leaving something of a 10 per cent, and another 10 per cent loss was caused vacuum where previously existed a well-recognised, by needing to select out some rotten berries” after a These bourgeois chateaux were the middle if disparate, group of middle-ranking clarets. less than ideal summer. It had not always been easyclasses to the upper classes of the first to fifth to choose the right date to pick.growths, representing, overall, probably better Rather than seeing the term cru bourgeoisthan average quality red Bordeaux wine. However, disappear forever, along with all that heritage, Alain Serveau, Bichot’s head winemaker, speakingas with any group of individuals, over time, some the association of cru bourgeois worked to come while the vats were still fermenting, added, “Weproperties rested on their laurels, allowing quality up with a new concept for cru bourgeois that picked earlier in white areas and we waited longerto slip, while others continued to pursue the highest preserved the perception and reality of middle- in red areas, especially the Cotes de Nuits. Butlevel of quality and excellence that the raw material ranking claret, and backed it up with an impartial yields are very low, of fruit with small, concentratedallowed, often making wine of which the lower- and transparent assessment process. berries, so I think we can make very good wineclassed growths would be proud. with a big concentration.” While he thought it was And so in September 2010, the first of the new possible to make great wine in 2010, he also said, Despite such a disparity in the quality of the single ‘reconnaissance’ cru bourgeois was announced,The association of cru bourgeois worked to come up with a new concept for cru bourgeoisthat preserved the perception and reality of middle-ranking claret.group, the concept of cru bourgeois has retained for the 2008 vintage, which were beginning to come “Some vineyards were attacked by rot, and it wasplenty of resonance over time, even though, until onto the market at the time of announcement. Most more difficult for those vineyards. So some vineyards2003, it was not an official classification - just a wines of cru bourgeois quality will be matured in oak may make good wines, but not the best.”group of growers of historical association who used and/or vat for about 18 months, so the 2008 vintagethe same term on their wine labels. (September/October harvest) was mainly bottled The balance in the fruit is good, aided by some between June and October 2010. For the 2008 rain before harvest. While rain may not be great in The origin of cru bourgeois, as used in the left vintage, 290 chateaux applied, and 243 chateau other vintages, in 2010 the berries were small, andbank vineyards of Bordeaux’s Medoc, dates to the wines achieved the cru bourgeois status. This very concentrated, so a little rain loosened themmiddle ages. The bourgeois were the inhabitants accounts for nearly one-third of Medoc production. up a little, and improved the balance.of the ‘bourg’ - or market town - of Bordeaux.They were prominent in trade, which enabled the One of the most momentous changes is that the new In Chablis, Matthieu Mangenot, of Chateaumerchants to buy good-quality land, some of which ‘reconnaissance’ cru bourgeois is not a classification Long-Depaquit, reiterated the low-yield, good-was developed into vineyards as the Bordeaux at all. It is an annual award based on blind tastings by concentration mantra for the vintage, saying, “Thewine trade grew internationally. third-party audited professional tasters. Any property grapes were quite aromatic, with high acidity and from the eight left bank communes of Medoc, Haut- quite high alcohol degree potential of 12.5 to 13.5 per By the time of the 1855 classification, documents Medoc, Listrac-Medoc, Moulis en Medoc Margaux, cent”. Heterogeneity of fruit was the other consistentstate the term cru Bourgeois was already being used, Saint Julien, Pauillac and Saint Estephe may apply. A theme with parts of Burgundy further south, within three different levels of quality. What changed new group of cru bourgeois wines will be announced some berries still green while others were very ripe.in 2003 was that the cru bourgeois tried to make every year, so the 2009 vintage will be announced At Long-Depaquit this challenge was met not only bythemselves into an official classification, having spent in September 2011. Consumers interested in these waiting a bit later to harvest, but then going throughthe previous few years visiting properties, tasting up middle-ground, red Bordeaux wines need to get used the vineyard twice rather than bringing the whole lot into 10 vintages of wines and making judgments about to the idea of an annual list. at once. As the property owns 10 per cent of the totalquality and consistency of quality over time. chablis grand cru vineyard it could probably afford, Nipping across the Massif Central to Burgundy, and needed to afford, such an expense. It was not all plain sailing though, and the group, the 2010 vintage is looking to be around 20 per centwhich had numbered 444, was announced down on 2009, and notably uneven across the region. Selection and the individual approach of theas a classification containing 247 chateaux, Tricky weather at flowering resulted in substantial producer appear to be bywords for the 2010in three rankings: exceptionel, superieur, and vintage in Burgundy.16 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011



winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYTHE MYRIAD COMPLEXITIES OF A SIMPLE OAK BARREL‘NO WOOD no good’ was an old saying in the went through to select his oak. “It started in 2008 earthy, herbaceous and coconut flavours. TheAustralian wine industry, but in recent decades when I decided to readdress the use of oak more tightly grained the oak the more subtlethere has been a shift in preference to light, in the winery. I wanted to get wood that would the flavours will be. The grain is a measurementaromatic white wines such as sauvignon blanc and complement the fruit rather than dominate it as involving the width of the annual growth rings.the Spanish joven style of red, where the wines are our wines are quite delicate in nature. To address The narrower the rings, the tighter the grain.bottled fresh and young for immediate enjoyment that issue I had three main questions that I wanted Tight-grain oak matures the wine more slowlyand spend very minimal, if any, time in oak. to investigate in designing my barrel trial. Firstly, I and time achieves better integration. Toasting wanted to look at cooperages. Secondly, I wanted (slightly charring the inside of the barrel over But oak has the ability to enhance and improve to look at toasting and coopering techniques. an open fire) achieves less oak lactones pick-a wine’s aroma and flavours considerably and Thirdly, I wanted to look at the size of barrels.” up, fewer tannins, and higher smoky aromas.oak remains an integral part of the winemaking But Conor has found that extended seasoningprocess. We are very skilled in oak maturation. Conor went about selecting barrels from 16 of the oak doesn’t necessarily meet his needs.Australia’s initial overseas success was forged on a cooperages, all with the same toasting levels, and “Excess green characters have not been anpractice of producing heavily oaked wines badged after his wine spent six months in oak he evaluated issue in my retained cooperages so in ordercheekily, and derogatively as, ‘Dolly Parton’ wines the barrels individually and, more importantly, to to keep the flavours that I think work for myby some. Chardonnay and shiraz were two of the see whether they complemented each other. “Over wines I’m seasoning for only 24 rather than 36most popular victims. the last three vintages I’ve culled a number of months. This seems to extend the time that they cooperages for either being too intensely aromatic, are more intensely influencing the flavour and There are a number of reasons to mature a wine in too dominant in one aroma or flavour or being aroma of the wine.”oak. While in barrel it undergoes natural fining and uncomplementary to the style of my preferredstabilisation that allows the winemaker to bottle the cooperages,” he says. “I’m now using 12 oak There are two types of oak commonly used inwine with limited intervention and ‘cleaning up’. The suppliers and continuing my work.” France. Quercus petraea is found in the coolercolour grows deeper and stabilises and changes northern and eastern parts, such as Vosges, has a tight grain and adds complexity and spice.Trial results for our wines have showed that lower toasting Quercus robur is found in the south-central areatemperatures and longer wood seasoning don’t necessarily of Limousin, which gives more recognisable robustmean more integrated wood. vanilla notes.occur in the phenol structure, due to gentle The second part of the trial was then to look at Alister Purbrick at Tahbilk in the Nagambie Lakesoxidation, which results in a softening of tannins. different toasting levels, grain tightness and which region, uses oak completely differently. “We matureIt is thought this oxidation occurs in a number of forest the oak came from. “Trial results for our wines our red wines in century-old oval vats, as distinctways, either through the wood, or between the have showed that lower toasting temperatures and from new oak,” he says. “The wines ferment instaves and through the bunghole, depending on longer wood seasoning don’t necessarily mean old oak vats, which allow the extraction of colour,its position. more integrated wood. My preference now is for flavour and tannin as well as the development of a long and slow or deep fire-bent barrel for reds a rich middle palate structure. The open vats are Producers have their favourite coopers, but tend and a mix of fire and water-bent barrels for whites.” then drained to the century-old (plus) oval oaknot to put all their eggs into one basket. When you barrels to complete fermentation, and the winewalk into a winery you are often confronted with Staves (planks) of the best oak undergo two remains in these barrels for about 20 months beforea variety of barrels from different coopers which or three years of air drying, as opposed to blending and bottling. No oak flavour is impartedrepresent oak from various forests in France, such oven-drying. This seasoning process is when to the wine from the old barrels but slow oxidationas Limousin, Vosges, Nevers, Troncais or Alliers. the staves are stacked in an open yard and of the flavours and tannins does occur, whichAlternatively, the oak may come from America, allowed to dry, which reduces the moisture results in a more integrated, complex, fruit-drivenwhich is a different species (Quercus alba) to content and removes bitter polyphenols, leaving style. Using old oak in this way is almost unique toFrench oak. It can be a lengthy process of trial more desirable vanillin and eugenol flavour Tahbilk in Australia and the resultant wines are aand error to get the right balance of oak in a wine. compounds that give vanilla and clove aromas. true reflection of the estate’s terroir.” In addition, longer seasoning increases the cis Consider the journey that talented winemaker and trans oak lactones. The cis lactone produces Unlike the Quercus suber (cork oak tree), theConor van der Reest from Moorilla in Tasmania Quercus petraea and robur oak is here to stay and continues to play an integral part in the artistry of wine.18 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011



winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING BOUTIQUE BEDS AND VALUE FINE DINING IN PARISYOU know the winds of change are blowing with-a-twist dishes like skate in brown butter and no exception. Everything is there, of course,through French cuisine when the guys at the top, succulent lamb shoulder on a bed of mogette from the Louis-Philippe-style furnishings torather than the up-and-comers, announce that beans. At Frenchie, the man in the kitchen is L’Occitane toiletries, marble bathrooms andthey are going back to basics. Alain Ducasse, Gregory Marchand, who has done time at the flat-screen TVs, but the friendliness of frontthe French chef with the most Michelin stars, has Gramercy Tavern in New York and Jamie Oliver’s office staff ensure you don’t miss one of theannounced that he’s moved on from the food of Fifteen in London. You come to this restaurant in city’s grande dame hotels.“pomp and ceremony”. The jet-setting maestro a cobblestoned street in the old garment districtwho runs 27 restaurants in eight countries is of Paris for some of the best market-driven food in The clincher for me, though is the fact that thereverting back to the simplicity of “essential town, from house-smoked trout on edamame puree Montalembert is next door to L’Atelier de Joeltastes”. As I tucked into an intensely flavoured to juicy slices of roast pork on celeriac. Robuchon. The former Michelin three-star chef,dish of duck with turnips at the Hotel Plaza- often accurately tagged as the best French chefAthenee in Paris, it was an easy stretch to agree L’Agrume is another bargain-basement magnet of the 20th century, dropped out of the Michelin ratwith the new direction. for those in search of fine food without a hefty race at the age of 50, but couldn’t resist the lure price tag. A five-course dinner costs only 35 euros of the kitchen for long. He opened this New York- Christophe Saintange, the executive chef ($49). Opened last December by chef Franck style, counter-only restaurant a few years agoin charge of the Plaza-Athenee’s kitchen, is Marchesi-Grandi, formerly of the Plaza-Athenee, and - surprise - it scored one star within months.interpreting Ducasse’s new regime with panache. who cooks alone in the open kitchen, L’Agrume is The simple yet sophisticated menu ranges“We wanted to make the cuisine more simple - not the magic bistro of every traveller’s fantasy. If the from cannelloni stuffed with foie gras throughfood for the sake of demonstration,” he says. That’s langoustine ravioli is on, look no further. Get here tapas, the best steaks ever and tasting dishes.only half the point, though. It’s tougher to make adish with only a couple of ingredients look as if it’s It’s the near-perfect backdrop for succulent roast chicken,worth the money. As the old French saying goes, beef, veal and fish served with textbook mashed potatoes andif you want to know how good a chef is, ask him mushroom and spinach gratinto make an omelette. If he makes a mistake, hecan’t hide it under a sauce, an added vegetable early - before 9pm - because the small dining room A winning formula that keeps the black and redor anything else. fills with locals every night. And save room for the lacquered dining room permanently packed for chocolate ganache dusted with cocoa powder and lunch and dinner. The dining room of the Plaza-Athenee has been served in a mint ‘soup’.gussied up, but that only makes the streamlining “Best boutique hotel we’ve ever stayed at” ravesof the food such an inspired decision. For Top-quality comfort food is the forte at three-star dodie86 from Perth on Tripadvisor in praise of thethose of us who have been disappointed by chef Guy Savoy’s rotisserie/restaurant L’Atelier Hotel Keppler, tucked into a posh side street aboutfailed fusion experiments in expensive French Maitre Albert. Across the Seine from Notre Dame, three minutes walk from the Champs-Elysees. It’srestaurants, the heritage menu is a dream, from the cavernous dining room teams centuries-old hard to disagree. The lush interior is the work ofthe freshest of langoustines with equally fresh limestone walls with slick modern decor. It’s the French interior architect Pierre-Yves Rochon, whocaviar to the poulet rotie, or roast chicken as we near-perfect backdrop for succulent roast chicken, designed the interiors of The Peninsula in Shanghai,say in English. The a la carte menu also follows beef, veal and fish served with textbook mashed the three-star restaurants of Joel Robuchon andthe simply perfect route, from sole meuniere potatoes and mushroom and spinach gratin. Alain Ducasse and the Monte Carlo Bay in Monaco.through calf’s sweetbreads with carrots, lamb As you step inside the main door, the feeling is onewith artichokes and, of course, the duck with The simply luxurious route is also worth of entering the home of a stylish, very rich friend.turnips. As I tucked into a dessert of baba au following when it comes to choosing a hotel Solo travellers and romantic couples alike will feelrhum comme a Monte Carlo, it reminded me of in Paris. I love staying on the Left Bank and very at ease in the bars and restaurants and thethe old aphorism that a baked apple is a luxury one of my favourite boltholes is the Hotel plush bedrooms. Best of all, though, no matter howto a millionaire. Perfectly cooked, of course, by Montalembert. This smart hotel galvanised early you have to leave in the morning, the staffa master chef. the Paris hotel scene when it was restored make sure you enjoy a full breakfast to keep you and reopened nearly 20 years ago, but the going for most of the day. A rarity in France, where Culinary trends come and go but Parisians remain contemporary design of Christian Liagre has retail and hotel staff work strictly to the clock. Bothas trend-conscious as New Yorkers when it comes stood the test of time. Many boutique hotel hotels can be booked through Preferred Boutiqueto chasing down hot new restaurants. Not only rooms in the French capital are glamorous but Hotels at www.preferredboutique.com.is the food at Jadis (translation, ‘in times past’) snug, and the Montalembert’s chambres areborderline brilliant, but chef Guillaume Delageis one of the most talented chefs in France. Theprices are very reasonable, though, for classic-20 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

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winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKEL THE CLARENDON VINEYARD - PART TWOLAST TIME we looked at the establishment of the finest champagne wines”. He tempered of each screw, faced with 2-inch Singapore cedar,the Clarendon Vineyard and its first plantings by his enthusiasm with a comment on Peake’s every portion of the iron being carefully cased toJohn Morphett around 1842 to its development in winemaking skills: “It is dry, spirituous, and prevent contact with the must”. Peake also madethe 1860s by Edward Peake, who expanded the bright, and if properly treated would without brandy “from wine lees and refuse”.vineyard considerably. When journalist Ebenezer doubt produce an excellent champagne.” InWard visited in December 1861 he was able to comparing the wine made “with pressure”, Peake intended to train “two or three youths”paint a vivid word-picture of the scene: “To the Ward noted that although it was less delicate, it as apprentices in the vineyard and, reportedsouth the first vineyard hill towers high above was “a sound, full-bodied wine, very agreeable Ward, “he strongly recommends other vigneronssurrounding objects, and appears, as it truly is, a and refreshing”. And in case anyone thinks that to endeavour by this means to disseminategigantic pyramid of verdure. Its slopes and summit blending red and white varieties together is practical knowledge of the vine, and theare closed with luxuriant vines, and their dense and something new, Ward considered a “light red or manufacture of wine”.verdant foliage is unbroken by one barren spot, tinted wine made from an admixture of Mr Peake’sand unvaried by one foreign plant”. purple and white varieties” to be “excellent”. But The Clarendon Vineyard has another claim to Peake’s best wine, “unquestionably the choicest fame. The first Greek to settle in South Australia As with all the vineyards he visited, Ward listed and most characteristic” in Ward’s opinion, was was Georgios Tramountanas, who arrived in Portand often described the characteristics of the his white. Peake had apparently never made Adelaide in 1842, just six years after South Australiavines grown. The Spanish varieties, listed last any significant amounts of “pure red wine”, and was founded. For a time when Peake was attime, were believed to have been brought in by as the current vintage was “still disturbed by Clarendon, Tramountanas worked at the ClarendonWilliam Leigh, who sent them to Morphett. A not- the periodic fermentation of all young wines”, Vineyard; perhaps he was the first Greek to worktoo-distant neighbour of Peake’s, Dr Alexander Ward wisely decided to reserve his judgment in an Australian winery.Kelly, had by 1861 acquired a selection of Spanish on its quality.varieties from James Wilson, who lived in Jerez and Peake was a versatile man with many achievements to his name, among them parliamentarian,A light red or tinted wine made from an admixture of magistrate, sketcher and, of course, vigneron.Mr Peake’s purple and white varieties. Noted for his eloquent and powerful speeches, he became “a gentleman of substance” in Southsourced fruit from the famous vineyard of Domecq, Ward wasn’t alone in his praise for Clarendon’s Australia and was a foundation member of theat Macharnudo. And, of course, James Busby had wines. Peake’s 1863 “reisling” was awarded a Adelaide Club. He died on 26 March 1876, agedbrought to Sydney many Spanish varieties in his prize at the third exhibition of South Australian vine only 54, and is buried in the Morphett Vale Catholicfamous importation in 1832, some of which found growers in August 1864. And while he was never Cemetery. As with so many early South Australiantheir way to Adelaide’s Botanic Garden, and thence top exhibitor at the Adelaide Wine Show, he won vignerons, his obituary in the colony’s leadingto vine growers in the colony. prizes for his wines. newspaper of the day made no mention of his winegrowing achievements. One of Peake’s Spanish varieties which impressed The two-storey cellars, almost church-like in theirWard was “temprana”, which, he wrote, “yields a appearance, were probably begun around 1858, In 1882 Joseph Gillard senior, aged 62, boughtvery delicate wine”. Kelly noted that there are white and were as impressive as the vineyard. When the Clarendon Vineyard, paying £3790 for its 38and black “tempranas”, so called because they are Ward visited in December 1861 he recorded that to 40 acres of vines. His second son, Williamthe first to ripen. (The CSIRO Grapevine Variety the lower cellar, intended for storage, measured 62 Henry Gillard (1858-1934), took control of the twoCollection lists “temperano”, possibly the same feet by 22 feet eight inches, and when filled with Gillard properties, Sylvania and Clarendon, aftergrape.) Peake believed the variety to be “better large vats should be able to hold about 10,000 his father died in 1897, especially concentratingadapted to the plains than to the hills, where the gallons of wine. Allowance had been made for on improving the by now run-down Clarendonfruit is extremely liable to be destroyed by the early underground cellars to be built into the side of Vineyard. In 1903 22,000 gallons of wine wererains of autumn”. the hill. Narrow windows, and shutters in summer, made there, compared with about 5300 gallons in helped to keep out light and heat. Winemaking 1862. William Henry’s son, William Malcolm (Bill) Always ready to taste any wines on offer and took place in the upper storey. Ward described the Gillard (1889-1982), joined his father in operatinggive his opinion of them, Ward was impressed winemaking process in some detail. The presses the two wineries. Clarendon was sold in 1935with the Clarendon wines, especially “the first “consist of two powerful screws passing through probably because of the depressed state of thequality drawn without pressure from the grapes”. a beam crosshead more than 12 inches square. A economy, thus ending three generations of theThis wine he found to be “very delicate, and cast-iron pitcher or plunger is affixed to the base Gillard family’s ownership of the property.resembles in flavour and bouquet some of Unlike many other 19th-century Australian wineries of distinction, both Peake’s cottage and his triple-gabled winery still exist, and are today known as the Old Clarendon Winery.22 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011



edAuScIaAtingBAROSSA PUTS ITSFOOT IN THE DOOROF A VAST MARKET ONAUSTRALIA’S DOORSTEPD. PAUL HARDYT H E I N T R O D U C T I O N to Asia forAustralian wine companies is on in earnest. Theburning question is how much do Asian marketsreally know about Australian wine - and is theirimpression painted largely by the influence ofripe shiraz with a bold and generous flavour? Aneducative process to show the diversity and peaksof quality is obviously the key to placing Australianwine prominently in this emerging marketplace.And in the minds of Peter Lehmann Wines, the pathto education lies, in part, through the influence ofrestaurants and its sommeliers to both understandand endorse the merits of fine Australian wines. Peter Lehmann Wines is an enthusiasticsupporter of the ASI (Association de laSommellerie Internationale) and offers majorprizes to the winners of international sommeliercompetitions. For the 2010 winners of theAsia-Oceania competition and the JapaneseSommelier Association Champion, their prizes,cannily enough, brought them to the Barossa, togain a first-hand experience of Barossa wine, fromthe vineyard to the winery to the glass.

I HAD NOT SEEN The two winners represent a fascinating insight trophy icons to $10 glug, and his customerVINES LIKE THIS BEFORE. into significantly different types of Asian wine interest in Australian wines at a higher priceI REALLY DIDN’T buyers. The JSA winner was Satoru Mori, sommelier point is growing. “It takes a while,” explains Ian.ASSOCIATE SUCH for Tokyo’s La Tour D’Argent restaurant, the “Customers can often stay only with what theyOLD VINES WITH franchised sibling of Paris’s famed La Tour already know, often preferring sweeter, simplerAUSTRALIAN WINE. D’Argent. Housed in the Hotel New Otani Tokyo, this styles of wines, but if they are encouraged they 25-year old restaurant, established as a facsimile of do progress quite quickly. That is what I like to its Parisian parent, is rated in several guidebooks assist them with.” as Tokyo’s finest, and its clients have expensive, discerning palates. Yet despite Satoru’s superior The two sommeliers flew to the Barossa and wine knowledge, his restaurant stocks only French immediately visited the vineyards of different wines, and many of the elite customers don’t ask private growers who supply fruit to Peter for his recommendations, shooting straight for the Lehmann Wines: Kevin Roesler in Eden Valley, big chateaux and famous vintages. “Perhaps it is who grows riesling that goes into Lehmann’s thought that I am too young,” says the immaculately elite Wigan Riesling, and old shiraz vineyards, groomed 26-year-old with a polite smile, “but I can including Nigel Blieschke’s at Light Pass and certainly help guide a diner if that is what they want.” the 1885 vineyard at Ebenezer. “The old vines are very impressive,” declared Satoru. “I had Ian Lim, winner of the Asia-Oceania competition, not seen vines like this before. I really didn’t is business manager and chief sommelier of the associate such old vines with Australian wine.” Singapore Straits Wine Company, a prominent retailer experiencing solid growth in sales of its They went on to a private tasting in the international wine portfolio. He has customers new Mentor room within the Peter Lehmann looking across the spectrum of wine, from coveted Wines cellar door facility at Tanunda, in the company of chief winemaker Andrew Wigan. Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 25

An award-winning,full-bodied red.Linking Australia with all coasts of North and South America; the Caribbean; Northern Europeand the Mediterranean; Asia; India; Pakistan; New Zealand and the Pacific Islands.For more, visit us at www.hamburgsud.comNo matter what.

To obtain a first-hard view of this exchange between alongside the four current-release icon wines from The tasting concluded with the biggest gun in thewinemaker and his Asian guests, Winestate Peter Lehmann Wines as a definitive comparative Lehmann armoury - the super-premium Stonewellpublisher Peter Simic and advertising manager exercise about the quality of Australian signature Shiraz. The current release - the 2005 - wasPeter Jackson were invited to join the tasting, which wines as they age in the cellar. presented beside the 2002 and the blockbusterserved not only as a strong benchmarking exercise 1998 and 1994 vintages. “I think this proves thatfor Peter Lehmann Wines, but also highlighted the The Wigan - a reserve Eden Valley riesling named we don’t need to make train-smash wines to showstatus of the Barossa - and ultimately the stature of in honour of the chief winemaker who twice won the off the best of Australian shiraz,” says AndrewAustralian wines in the eyes of international guests. international winemaker of the year award at the with a broad smile. “All that chocolate, the deepAnd to achieve this, the Peter Lehmann Wines staff International Wine and Spirit Challenge in London layers of texture weaving through the primary fruit,cast their gaze far beyond their own cellar. for this wine - was represented with the 2002, 2004, really shows this to be one of the world’s unique 2006 and 2010 vintages. While the 2010 Wigan styles of wine.” The sommeliers were first shown a regional showed pristine quality from an especially strongsnapshot of Barossa shiraz, from a wide variety of vintage, the 2004 and 2002 showed beautifully For Satoru, this exercise provided a significantproducers across four different price brackets. This developed character without sacrificing lean surprise. He hadn’t realised the finesse and purityunselfish gesture showed that incremental price grapefruit and zesty lime flavours. of Australian white wines, nor the rich expressiondifferences have a huge bearing on the difference of older-vintage Barossa reds. “What we usuallyof fruit quality and winemaking techniques employed The Margaret Semillon - named after Peter see is young Australian shiraz, which is soin Australian shiraz - and also showed the generosity Lehmann’s wife, Margaret, who is a stalwart different to wines that are older than 10 years.”and superb value for money through the ranges of champion of the virtues of Barossa semillon - And while his restaurant lists only include Frenchcheaper wines, particularly in the $20-$30 price showcased the pristine textural nature of Barossa wines, he intends to host sommelier meetings andbracket. “Across every level, we’re seeing true semillon at its best. “This certainly rates alongside spread the word of his discoveries among otherBarossa shiraz character,” says Andrew Wigan, anything I’ve tasted from the Hunter Valley,” leading sommeliers.“and it just gets more focused, more concentrated announced Ian Lim. The Mentor, the label’sas the quality of selected grapes gets higher.” premium cabernet blend, evoked similar praise, For Ian, the conclusion was even more simplistic with the current 2005 release (which has all – and more beneficial for his tour sponsors. “Now, The second part of the tasting was an opportunity cabernet fruit) compared to the 2002, 1998 and having tasted what I have today, I’m keen to exposefor Andrew to flaunt his greatest vinous assets, 1994 Mentor blends. “I didn’t realise that Barossa more of my customers to Australian wines that I’mpulling out prime back vintages and placing them cabernet could be this good,” admitted Satoru. now a fan of. The more I try, the more I like.” Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 27

INOPUFRPSUaITssitosDelights and disappointmentson a sweet Sicilian journeyANDRÉ PRETORIUS T H E ‘ M A LVA S I A ’ promised with our aperitivi Tasca d’Almerita’s main operation is south of Palermo on the Sicilian mainland, but it maintains an rang no bells. Or, rather, it rang discordant outpost on Salina expressly to produce this Malvasia bells. I thought I knew it as a grape of no great delle Lipari. Tasca’s passito - the first I was tasting distinction, usually in yoke with trebbiano, to - is distinguished from other Malvasias delle Lipari furnish some unappealing Tuscan dry whites. Yet by the fact that it is 100 per cent malvasia, while it the wine that arrived with our snacks was neither is customary to blend five per cent of the heavier dry, nor unappealing. red corinto nero grape into the wine. The wine was therefore lighter and crisper, suitable both as an Perhaps there was a clue in the fact that I was not aperitif and a dessert wine. And apt to whet my in Tuscany, but on Salina, one of the seven Aeolian appetite for more of this peculiar but delicious nectar. islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea north of Sicily. It had been a hectic few months in the office and this When we headed down the winding coast road to Sicilian visit was holiday, not research - so I had Santa Marina Salina the following evening, it was not even bothered to check whether the Aeolians not in search of malvasia, but for dinner at Porto produced any wines of note. Bello on the quay where the hydrofoil from Sicily docks. The restaurant is justly famous throughout Which was why I failed to realise that the suffix the Aeolians, but it retains a simplicity befitting ‘delle Lipari’ meant that my malvasia would not its island location. The food was unpretentious, be a forgettable dry Tuscan, but an intense sweet but exquisite - stuffed squid with a hint of sweet- wine peculiar to this small volcanic archipelago. and-sour, seafood spaghetti with a dash of chilli, Malvasia, some say, came here with the ancient seared tuna medallions with a herb crust. Greeks from the Peloponnese peninsula in the first century AD; others date its arrival to the 16th Just as it would have been wise to call it a night and century. Be that as it may, by the time that 19th retire to Capofaro, we were seduced by the list of century French man of letters, Alexandre Dumas, passitos. Dario, our waiter, announced that they were visited here, he thought Malvasia delle Lipari ‘the all available by the glass. All, that was, except for “the most excellent wine I had ever tasted in my life’. best passito in all of Italy”: the Malvasia delle Lipari Riserva from the winery of Hauner. To taste this elixir, It was at Capofaro, a resort run by the Tasca we would need to have a 500ml bottle, and we did. d’Almerita winery among its malvasia vines on a Hauner’s Riserva was a heavier, more complex wine headland at the north-eastern extremity of Salina, than that light aperitif at Capofaro: it was redolent of that the scales were falling from my eyes. The setting raisins and orange peel, with flavours of quince and is a Tyrrhenian idyll: the cape, surmounted by a honey - a wine worthy of being dessert in its own lighthouse, tumbles away to an azure Mediterranean right, but still crisp and fresh enough never to cloy. with the perfect volcanic cone of Stromboli, the most famous Aeolian, rising in the distance.28 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

The next day we rented a moped and headed forLingua, the next village along from Santa Marina.When we turned off at the Hauner signpost on theoutskirts of the village, the gate was closed andwe were about to dial Andrea’s number when achap headed our way down the drive. He waswearing a pair of Bermuda swimming trunks andnothing besides - unless you counted his mop ofunruly chestnut hair: Andrea Hauner, who initiatedus into the secrets of that wine that had detainedus so delightfully at Porto Bello. Andrea, who has a degree in oenology fromMilan, explained that they make three malvasias.The straight Malvasia delle Lipari is not a passitobut naturale: a light, sweet wine made by vinifyingthe malvasia in the customary blend with corintonero, but without sun-drying the grapes. Its two elder cousins, the Malvasia delle LipariPassito and Riserva, are both passitos proper,made in the traditional way by harvesting thesupremely ripe malvasia grapes in Septemberand drying them in the sun on straw mats, orcannizzi, for three to four weeks before pressing.The passito is then fermented in stainless steel,while the riserva is fermented in oak barrels. Thesweetness of the naturale, explained Andrea,was a function of the grape’s natural sweetnessand the heat of the Sicilian summer, while theraisiny flavours and complexity of the passitoand riserva derived from the sun-drying andwood fermentation.Left: View from Lipari island on Salina and Filicudi islands.© Michał Krakowiak.Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 29

It resembled nothing so much as apricot jam - which is fineon toast at breakfast, but not in a glass after dinner. As we headed back along the coast road, we La Foresteria has an excellent restaurant serving was not quite. The whites and reds - all poeticallywere distracted on the outskirts of Malfa by a sign locally sourced food, accompanied principally by named and expertly marketed - were drinkable, butpointing to Fenech, another producer of the amber Planeta’s own wines. Over dinner one evening, for reasons unknown the carabinieri were hoveringnectar of Salina. This took rustic to a whole new our delightful waitress conjured up Planeta’s own at the exit and I had to drive.level: the ‘tasting room’ gave every appearance of take on Moscato di Noto from the 2008 and 2004having served as a garage until quite recently. The vintages. The younger wine faintly resembled that So I had to fast-track to Donnafugata’s Ben Rye,Malvasia delle Lipari of Salina turned out to be only very first malvasia: a lighter, crisper style than many a name derived from the Arabic for “son of theone among a pantheon of singular dessert wines in these parts, but still aromatic and more complex wind”, for it attaches to a wine made in singularproduced on Sicily and its surrounding islands. than the malvasia. fashion on a windy isle in the Strait of Sicily between Sicily and Africa: Pantelleria. We found an intern After Salina, we moved to La Foresteria, the Its older sibling gave every appearance of spending the summer with Donnafugata fromdelightful new hotel among the vines of the Planeta disclaiming a shared parentage: compared with the London and persuaded him to procure two glasseswinery near Menfi in south-western Sicily. The pale straw-coloured 2008, the 2004 had assumed of the illustrious sticky. He led us to the kitchen,Planetas are one of the pre-eminent wine families the colour of weak tea and acquired rich, almost produced the two glasses of liquid and someof Sicily, with vineyards from the slopes of Etna in caramel-like flavours. Sicilian cakes to match. He explained in reverentialthe north-east to the fertile valley of the River Belice tones how the zibibbo grapes (also known asin the south-west. Those holdings include some On another evening we drove off into the hills north Muscat d’Alexandrie) are rendered into this wine.muscat vineyards around the Baroque town of Noto of Menfi in search of the winery of Donnafugata, atin the south-east, the land of another singular DOC, which an evening tasting was to be held. By the Harvesting starts at the Feast of the Assumptionnamely Moscato di Noto. time we eventually found it, the wine would have of Our Lady on August 15 and those first grapes needed to be quite spectacular to perk me up. It are dried in the sun and manually destemmed.30 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

In September the later vineyards are harvested;while these ferment, the dried grapes from the earlierharvest are added to the must. I would love to sayit was an epiphany, but honesty prevents me…It was an extraordinarily complex wine, viscous likesyrup, but ultimately committing the cardinal sin ofany dessert wine: it was cloying. In fact, it resemblednothing so much as apricot jam - which is fine ontoast at breakfast, but not in a glass after dinner. There was similar disappointment at the illustrioushouse of Florio in the city of Marsala on the coast.Marsala is writ large in Italian history: it was herethat Giuseppe Garibaldi landed in May 1860 withhis “Thousand” to start the march north that wouldunify the peninsula and create what we know as Italy. An earlier visitor, one John Woodhouse fromLondon in 1773, left another legacy: fortifiedMarsala wine. Woodhouse rather took to the port-like local wine and thought he could market it inEngland, but only if he could preserve it on thesea journey. His solution was to add alcohol as apreservative; Marsala wine was born. Florio is one of the most esteemed remainingproducers of this vinuous oddity (which has ratherdeclined in the affections of international winedrinkers), but it also produces still wines and a coupleof passitos - both a Malvasia delle Lipari and a Passitodi Pantelleria. We tried both. Neither impressed. Instead, for my Pantellerian epiphany, I had totravel much further east, to the Baroque town ofRagusa. With a local friend we arrived at LocandaDon Serafino just before midnight for a starter ofrabbit alla stimpirata and spaghetti with ricci (orsea urchin). Both dishes were beautifully matchedby yet another spectacular Carricante from Etna,but the coup de theatre came with the passitos wehad in lieu of dessert. We had three different onesround the table, but the uncontested winner wasSalvatore Murana’s Passito di Pantelleria 2002 fromKhamma. It seemed a masterclass in dessert-winemaking in these latitudes: the most complex, well-matured sweet wine, with aromas of dried fig anda seductive crispness on the tongue. And if I were allowed only one dessert wine for mydesert island, which would it be? Hauner’s Riserva?That slightly older Moscato di Noto from Planeta?The Murana Passito? Hmm… It might promptsome more Sicilian methods from another age:I might smuggle the other two in!Left: Malvasia plantation in Aeolian islands © Sandro Messina. 31Opposite: Monemvasia architectural details © ilbusca. Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E

ASIA ON THE DENIS GASTINACCELERATOR Market’s rapid expansion poses great challenges for exportersT O T H E S U R P R I S E of economists globally, domestic industry’s supply capacity and, increasingly, star restaurants than any other city in the world - 14 it is relying on imported bulk wine to ‘extend’ local in total, compared with 10 in Paris - and the Japanand to the delight of Australian and New Zealand brands while new domestic capacity comes on Sommelier Association has 17,000 members.winemakers, China and most of the rest of Asia stream. There has also been strong growth in importshave weathered the GFC relatively unscathed. of bottled wine since the middle of the decade. Hong Kong is also a long-established market forSo the steep growth in wine sales that began imported wine, though the volumes are much moremid-decade was barely interrupted in most Asian Japan, however, spends the most on imported modest, and has recently recaptured global winemarkets and has, in any case, resumed again in wine - for now, at least - and is, by a wide margin, industry attention after scrapping duties on importedthose that were temporarily slowed. the region’s most mature and structured market. wine and heavily promoting Hong Kong as Asia’s It has the largest per capita consumption level wine hub. It now hosts several of the region’s major Wine producers are excited because Asia in Asia and wine is now deeply imbedded in wine promotion events, including the Internationalnow accounts for almost eight per cent of global consumer consciousness. Tokyo has more three- Wine & Spirits Fair and Vinexpo Asia, as well as theconsumption - treble what the whole of Oceaniaconsumes. And Asia also accounts for 6.5 per centof world wine imports - about 120 million nine-litrecases a year - having grown by well over 50 percent in less than five years. Imports are expectedto exceed 150 million cases by 2013. And that maystill prove to be quite conservative. China dominates the regional market, with a verylarge domestic wine industry accounting for up to90 per cent of national sales volume. But the growthin total wine consumption in China has strained the32 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

Left to Right: Australian in-store wine promotion at Wal-Mart store in Dalian, China. Spanish Pavilion at HK International Wine & Spirits Fair, Australian Pavilion.region’s first Asian wine competition, the Hong Kong contracted during 2008 and were down 32 per be responsible for more than two-thirds of the volumeInternational Wine and Spirits Competition (HKIWSC). cent in 2009, due to the impact of the GFC. In 2010 of wine consumed in the region (both imported andTo encourage regional logistics operations, the growth resumed, though at much more modest domestic), given the pace of demand growth andgovernment operates an accreditation system for wine rates than in the middle of the decade. the fact that it is already accounting for 62 per centstorage facilities on the island. The University of Hong of the regional sales volume.Kong has launched Asia’s first wine MBA course, in There are opportunities in other regional markets,collaboration with Bordeaux Management School. but none of them accounts individually for greater Wine is already featured in most liquor outletsIt is estimated that there are now about 40,000 people than one per cent of total Asia-Pacific sales nation-wide, though, not surprisingly, stores areemployed in wine-related activities in Hong Kong. (domestic plus imported wine) and collectively they much more comprehensively stocked in the major account for just 17 per cent of the Asia-Pacific total. cities. In just one block on Jinling St in downtown Korea is the next largest regional market. Imports Shanghai, for example, the three convenience storeshad accelerated by 62 per cent in 2007 but sharply It is the sheer number of people in China and their each stock wine. One of them, Family Mart, offers accelerating capacity to buy ‘luxury’ goods that 20 different choices, seven of them Australian (from has entranced wine exporters. Chinese demand Jacobs Creek, Wolf Blass, Yellowtail and Lindemans), for all luxury items has surged dramatically. China four Chilean, three French, two American, one South is, for example, already the world’s fastest growing African, and only four of them domestic labels. market for luxury cars: sales of Mercedes-Benz and BMW almost doubled in the first six months of Well, yes, Shanghai is the most cosmopolitan, 2010 and Audi now sells more cars in China than affluent and stylish of China’s big cities but this is anywhere else, including its home market. a lifestyle to which most of the 1.3 billion Chinese aspire - even if only about 25 million of them have so So it’s a foregone conclusion that China will overtake far reached the point where regular consumption of Japan as Asia’s biggest spender on imported bottled premium imported wine is a feasible option. wine in the very near future. In fact, China will soon Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 33

IT IS ONLY IN THE PAST THREE YEARS THAT In the general supermarkets, therefore, it is the FRANCE’S DOMINANCE HAS BEEN DENTED domestic brands that dominate. The three largest BY OTHER SUPPLIERS AND, PARTICULARLY local producers - Changyu, Great Wall and Dynasty AUSTRALIA, WHICH HAS BECOME THE NO. 2 - account for the bulk of the listings, ranging from SUPPLIER TO THE MARKET. lowest price to, in most instances, highest price, with imports mostly lying in between. Low-end local34 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011 wines can be purchased for $A2 but prices now step up to as high as $80 for local brands - though it must be said that prices for such local wine reflects more the elaborateness (and weight) of bottle and box packaging than the quality of the wine inside, and it is bought as gifts, not for general drinking. Another measure of the rise in status of wine in consumer consciousness is that the current edition of Air China’s in-flight magazine on domestic flights has three full-page colour advertisements for domestic wine brands. The prospects for wine sales to China are seen by the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation to be substantial enough to forecast that, by 2015, China will have become Australia’s no.1 export

market for wine, overtaking the traditional markets It will help that Australian and New Zealand Above: At work on individualof the US, the UK and Canada. Not bad for a entries dominated the medal tally at the HK exhibitor booths.country that was not even in the top 10 export IWSC, the region’s premier wine competition, Centre: Judy Leissner, of Grace Wines,destinations for Australian wine just five years ago given that China represented the strongest visitor accepting trophy for Best Wine from China.and accounted for less than two per cent of total presence at the trade fair running concurrently. Below: HK IWSC Gala Awards Dinner.exports in 2007-08. The AWBC has also allocated But aspiring Australasian producers should Opposite: Italian Pavilion at HKadditional resources to help meet this target. not delude themselves that they have special International Wine & Spirits Fair. claims to this market. Competition will remain New Zealand is seeing it much the same way: intense but there are many other challenges Trade sources also say Australia’s image isWinegrowers New Zealand says it expects China too, beyond competition. being damaged because of a clutter of make-upto be its top export market in five to 10 years. labels in the market, with no verifiable Australian Counterfeit labeling is not uncommon - and not identity. Some are buyers’ own brands, supplied It is not always plain sailing, however. As an just for the super-premium First Growths. Some by well-established Australian producers looking toemerging market for imported bottled wine, China Australian labels, including Penfolds and Brown extend their sales reach beyond their core brandpresents many challenges for exporters. One, Brothers, have already been counterfeited. or to enter multiple channels. Others are labelsobviously, is competition. Much to the delight of the made up by opportunists seeking to quickly exploitwine trade in China and of local wine consumers, Then there is the issue of parallel trading. It is not market opportunities, rather than carefully buildit’s not just Australia and New Zealand that see uncommon to find in the marketplace Australian and maintain a sustainable market presence. Manythe China market as the great hope of the future wines of which the producer has no knowledge. are inexperienced operators that do not know howfor their struggling wine industries. Some is sourced in third countries and trans- to manage the demanding supply chain logistics, shipped to China. Some is procured in Australia so their wine ends up in consumers’ hands in poor Even Romania, a minnow in the global wine as a domestic transaction and then unknowingly condition. Some is imported in bulk and bottledstakes, sees the potential for its industry to be shipped to China in mixed goods containers. locally in less than ideal facilities.selling 12 million bottles to China annually in thenext couple of years. One of its leading producers, These issues present a challenge to the AustralianTohani, reportedly has a plan to open a winery in industry, and to the AWBC, to ensure, perhapsChina in 2012 to add substance to the task. through more active auditing, that Australia’s exacting and internationally respected export control system But it is France that has dominated the attention is fully defensible to the trade and to consumers inof the local industry, the local trade and local wine emerging markets such as China.consumers until very recently. It has been the majorsupplier of imported wine and, by a long margin,the highest price achiever. It has also been thelargest collaborator with and investor in the localindustry. Big France-based global players such asRemy Cointreau, Pernod Ricard and Castel all havesubstantial stakes in local wine production, as wellas in distribution. Even Chateau Lafite, the world’sno.1 wine label, has recently committed to a vineyardproject in China and is now reported to sell more wineto Chinese buyers, including in third markets, thananywhere else. It has even seen fit to change its labelto include features pitched specifically to Chineseconsumers: such as ‘lucky’ numbers (currently eight)and the happy colour (red). It is only in the past three years that France’sdominance has been dented by other suppliers and,particularly Australia, which has become the no. 2supplier to the market, now accounting for 20 per centof total imports. In a surprisingly short time, Australianwine has become widely available at the retail leveland in on-premise locations where imported wine isfeatured. There is every indication that it is winningpositive consumer responses - particularly for shirazand shiraz blends. The other major suppliers are,somewhat surprisingly, the US, then Italy and Chile. Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 35

WINE OF THAEwYaErdAs R2010 1 2 345 1. Peter Simic presenting the Wine of the Year award to Greg Follett, Lake Breeze Wines. 2. Peter Simic presenting the Wine of the Year runner-up award to Randall Cummins, Rosemount Wines. 3. Peter Simic presenting the Australian Winemaker of the Year award to Nick Haselgrove, Adelaide Winemakers. 4. Peter Simic and Peter Jackson presenting the New Zealand Winemaker of the Year award to Matt Thomson, Saint Clair. 5. Peter Simic presenting the Australian Winemaker of the Year award to Robert Lamond, De Bortoli Wines. 6. Peter Simic and Peter Jackson presenting the New Zealand Wine Company of the Year award to Matt Thomson, Saint Clair. 6

123 WINE OF THE YEAR - Lake Breeze Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 RUNNER-UP WINE OF THE YEAR - Rosemount Show Reserve Cool Climate Release Robe Chardonnay 2009 AUSTRALIAN WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR - Nick Haselgrove, Adelaide Winemakers AUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANY OF THE YEAR - De Bortoli Wines NEW ZEALAND WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR - Matt Thomson, Saint Clair NEW ZEALAND WINE COMPANY OF THE YEAR - Saint Clair Family Estate4 5 678 1. Michael Cooper and Peter Jackson presenting the Sparkling of the Year award to Strat Canning, Margrain. 2. Michael Cooper and Peter Jackson presenting the Pinot Gris of the Year award to Dominic Maxwell, Greystone. 3. Peter Simic presenting the Riesling of the Year award to Gary Anderson, Tucker Creative on behalf of Kettle Lane Wines. 4. Michael Cooper presenting the Sauvignon Blanc of the Year award to Nick Hern, Vavasour Wines. 5. Sponsor Jean-Marie Simart, Vintec-Transtherm presenting the Chardonnay of the Year award to Randall Cummins, Rosemount Wines. 6. Kay Morganty presenting the Pinot Noir of the Year award to Brent Hindman, Craggy Range Wines. 7. Lara Simic presenting the Semillon of the Year award to Richard Friend, Pokolbin Estate. 8. Peter Jackson presenting the Shiraz of the Year award to Shavaughn Wells, Saltram Wines. Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 37

THE AWAR2D01S0 12Sparkling - WELLCOM TROPHY 341st Margrain La Michelle Methode Traditionnelle 20072nd Lake Barrington Estate Alexandra Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2006 Chardonnay - TRANSTHERM TROPHY Radenti Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2000 1st Rosemount Show Reserve Cool Climate Release Robe Chardonnay 2009 Seppelt Salinger Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2006 2nd Hardys Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2008 Mount William Macedon Blanc de Blancs 2003 Heggies Reserve Eden Valley Chardonnay 2007Pinot Gris/Grigio - RADOUX TROPHY Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Yarra Valley Chardonnay 20081st Greystone Sand Dollar Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2010 The Lane Beginning Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 20072nd Prophet’s Rock Central Otago Pinot Gris 2009 Pinot Noir - COLLOTYPE LABELS TROPHY Greystone Waipara Pinot Gris 2009 1st Craggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard Martinborough Pinot Noir 2008 Overstone Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2010 2nd Villa Maria Single Vineyard Southern Clays Pinot Noir 2008 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Seddon Pinot Gris 2009 Bald Hills Single Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008Riesling - TUCKER CREATIVE TROPHY Saint Clair Family Estate Pioneer Block 12 Lone Gum Pinot Noir 20071st Kettle Lane Tasmanian Riesling 2009 Gibbston Highgate Estate Soultaker Central Otago Pinot Noir 20082nd Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Barossa Riesling 2007 Merlot - CLASSIC OAK TROPHY Elderton Eden Valley Riesling 2010 1st Kim Crawford Small Parcels Corner 50 Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2008 Richmond Grove Limited Release Watervale Riesling 2008 2nd Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2008 Rhythm Stick Wines Red Robin Clare Valley Riesling 2009 Blue Pyrenees Merlot 2008Sauvignon Blanc - McPHERSON’S CONSUMER PRODUCTS TROPHY Churchview Silverleaf Margaret River Merlot 20081st Vavasour Awatere Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Thornbury Hawkes Bay Merlot 20082nd Thornbury Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Trinity Hill White Label Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Wirra Wirra Hiding Champion Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Mount Riley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010Semillon - GALE PACIFIC TROPHY1st Pokolbin Estate Hunter Valley Semillon 20052nd Capercaillie Hunter Valley Semillon 2008 Tyrrell’s Wines Vat 1 Hunter Valley Semillon 2004 Allandale Hunter Valley Semillon 2005 Pokolbin Estate Phil Swannell Hunter Valley Semillon 200638 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

Cabernet Sauvignon - HAMBURG SÜD TROPHY1st Lake Breeze Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 20072nd Wolf Blass Grey Label Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Ring Bolt Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Saltram Winemaker Selection Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Majella Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008Shiraz - AMCOR TROPHY1st Saltram No.1 Barossa Shiraz 20062nd Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2008 Feet First Frankland River Shiraz 2008 Yellow Tail Limited Release Wrattonbully Shiraz 2005 Preston Peak Reserve Single Vineyard Shiraz 2008Sweet Whites - NATIONAL WINE CENTRE TROPHY1st John Forrest Collection Brancott Valley Marlborough Noble Riesling (375ml) 20062nd Brown Brothers Milawa Patricia King Valley Noble Riesling (375ml) 2006 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Noble Viognier 2009 John Forrest Collection Brancott Valley Marlborough Noble Riesling (375ml) 2005 Aimisfield Noble Sauvignon Blanc (375ml) 2008Fortifieds - ADAMS & SONS TROPHY1st Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rutherglen Amontillado Sherry NV2nd Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rutherglen Rare Tokay NV Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rutherglen Rare Muscat NV Baileys of Glenrowan Founder Glenrowan Liqueur Muscat NV Morris of Rutherglen Cellar Reserve Rutherglen Liqueur Tokay NV 5 1. Peter Jackson presenting the Fortified of the Year award to David Morris, Morris Wines. 2. Kay Morganty presenting the Sweet White of the Year award to Trevor Loomis, Forest Wines. 3. Kay Morganty presenting the Merlot of the Year award to Rai Banbury, Kim Crawford Wines. 4. Ian Henderson, state manager of Hamburg Süd presenting the Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year award to Greg Follett, Lake Breeze Wines. 5. James Haselgrove, Nick Haselgrove and David Watkins, Adelaide Winemakers with the Australian Winemaker of the Year trophy.6 6. Greg and Robyn Follett, Lake Breeze proudly presenting their Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year and Wine of the Year trophies. Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 39

adelaidegrapevineGRAEME ANDREWS‘Chain of Ponds’ is a lyrical phrase evoking chords proved appropriate foils for the superb elegantof interest. To compound the intrigue, it also Adelaide Hills shiraz, lifted sangiovese, and finelyintroduces two distinct stories. One is a fascinating tuned nebbiolo this producer does so well.historical insight embracing early South Australia,(a quirky journey I can thoroughly recommend); the Don’t expect five star cuisine - it’s not, nor pretends toother is a charming Adelaide Hills boutique winery be. Chain of Ponds offers well-conceived, generouslyand restaurant complex, the subject of this column. portioned, tasty eating at genuine value-for-money prices. Chain of Ponds. Mannum Rd, Gumeracha; Perched halfway up a steep hill on Mannum Rd, phone (08) 8389 1901; www.chainofponds.com.au.just past Gumeracha, Chain of Ponds radiates aslightly Tuscan feel. Vineyards trail up and down At the southern end of McLaren Vale’s main streetsurrounding slopes before disappearing into the stands a 100-year-old building. Solid and sombre, itsdistance. Carefully manicured gardens enclose all physical exterior is a sobering reminder that this wasbuildings, producing tranquil private courtyards, while a place where a religious group formerly worshipped.lush greenery sweeps around arches and steps, Once you’re through the door of Vasarelli, theleading to the cellar door and dining room. Inside, bleakness evaporates, replaced by a contemporary transformation more in tune with Milan or Rome. more dichotomy rules. This intimate L-shaped area, Sophisticated Italian decor sweeps through a nest of slices of mozzarella and stunning extra virgin olive with rustic terracotta tiles and uninterrupted floor-to- rooms. Black on white with splashes of colour from oil, tower skyward on two giant slices of freshly grilled ceiling countryside vistas, operates under two distinct discreetly placed wall art add a sense of modern wood oven bread. Penne alla norcina, with lightly fried names: Cafe Novello, Monday to Friday, serving elegance. A long wine tasting bar, pristine open sausage, mushrooms, parmesan, cream and a hint delicious house-made pies and vast antipasto or kitchen and well-spaced tables all vie for attention. of nutmeg, or a classic vegetarian risotto with arborio cheese platters (at very modest cost), and Balcony While serious money has produced this delightful chic rice are simply heaven on a plate. Succulent chicken Restaurant on Sunday. The latter is an a la carte refurbishment, it’s the welcoming smiles from Michael breast, roasted lamb rack and grilled porterhouse extravaganza, tailored for those who enjoy long, lazy or Maria Vasarelli that’ll warm your heart. will leave carnivores full and smiling. And desserts affairs. The good news is that both operate under ascend from maybe to mandatory - just factor in a 5km cellar door manager Ben Germein’s caring direction This new direction for the Vasarelli family is not yet post-lunch/dinner walk before making your selection! and both give bottle or glass access to the vast, a year old, yet early signs indicate its visions are Serves are generous so take care not to over-order. moderately priced portfolio of Chain of Ponds wines. firmly on track in this comfortable mix of wine cellar Immaculate service and great coffee round out any door, cafe and restaurant. Wines follow the classic repast. A new contender, jostling for position as one My visit coincided with Balcony Restaurant’s turn Aussie path of the semillon/sauvignon blanc, rich of McLaren Vale’s best dining experiences. 169 Main to shine, allowing me to experience the full force of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon type - stylish, well- Rd. McLaren Vale; phone (08) 8323 7980; www. the kitchen team’s expertise. Entrees of Moroccan crafted and comfortably in tune with other premium vasarellicellardoor.com.au. roast pumpkin soup with scented yoghurt and regional producers. But they have cleverly made Mediterranean goat fetta tart with onion jam plus an uncompromising stand with their restaurant and I’ve been observing a curious aberration; whether it’s rocket and pear salad made an appearance, and exclusively feature genuine authentic Italian dishes. linked to climate change or is a product of an unusually mains included grilled Coorong Angus beef with No dodgy short-cuts or multicultural cuisine crossovers cold, wet winter is a moot point. The most likely reason potato bake and forestiere sauce and barramundi make the cut. Expect quality ingredients cooked with is that Rene Redzepi, head chef/owner of NOMA in topped with carrot kausandi. love and care. It’s not Michelin-inspired extravaganzas Copenhagen, the world’s currently acclaimed number but dishes that would normally flow from the kitchens one restaurant, has recently graced our sunburnt Desserts followed a more traditional direction of highly skilled Italian home cooks. A bruschetta, country with a lightning visit, sharing his visionary - sticky date and hazelnut pudding or an apple pomodoro e mozzarella fioro di latte, singing with magical formula for success. and strawberry crumble. Flavours drifted towards the joy of perfectly ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, chunky European with modern Australian touches and Two of Adelaide’s more innovative chefs have suddenly taken a strong interest in flora and fauna40 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011 foraging expeditions. For the uninitiated this means looking for natural (often indigenous) ingredients and accessing their obscure and usually unknown culinary possibilities. But (and there always has to be one), the catch is that these ‘goodies’ must exist no more than 100km from their restaurants. Both Celsius chef Ayhan Erkoc and The Kitchen Door’s Ben Sommariva have decided to include local garden snails in their degustation menus. Maybe creepy crawlies and garden weeds are the next ‘foodie’ thing and your quarter-acre house block could be the next gourmet’s paradise! Left: Chain of Ponds. Right: Balcony Restaurant antipasto platter.

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNThe regenerated East Perth is now an Another main is more straightforward, but just for their convenience. The only thing this pubexpensive oasis of pretty Legoland houses as well-executed. A $35 Black Angus sirloin is lacks is accommodation, so find a friend with anand small apartment blocks and is a sanctuary served with rosti, caprese salad and jus. The apartment close by or book a taxi in advance andfor self-funded retirees and overseas steak arrives as ordered, with a smoky and enjoy the experience. 60 Royal St (cnr of Plain St),investors who are part-time residents. crunchy caramelised exterior and pink, juicy East Perth; phone (08) 9221 0466.It lacks the urgency of youth (many are flesh, and the jus is in its own small jug - a farthankful for that) and therefore is not as better alternative than being poured over the My favourite Thai restaurant in Perth takesvibrant and busy as the other inner-suburban meat, as happens in most places. The salad about 40 minutes (longer, when it’s busy) tohospitality areas of Mt Lawley, Subiaco and of sliced tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil serve a dish after ordering, so you can imagineLeederville. It has however, some of the best has a light olive oil dressing and is lively and my trepidation when an order at the Royal Siamrestaurant and café sites in Perth, especially fresh and the rosti, a thick potato fritter, adds a in Royal St arrives in less than five minutes. Ialong the boardwalks and pathways of chunky carbohydrate fillip to this conservative, envisage pre-cooked and dried-out food as theClaisebrook Cove. Here you’ll find The Royal, yet appealing dish. Entrees are around $17 and waitress shimmies to my table at a brisk rate. ButLamonts, Havana, Rubra, L’Aqua, Basil desserts $14, and sides are extra if required I’m pleasantly surprised, as the Siam white wineLeaves and the new Blackbird. with the mains. seafood, the chef’s signature dish, has a crunch and juiciness about the deep-fried prawns, fish, scallops and squid, and the accompanying steamed vegetables are also crisp and delightful. The lot swims in a mild white wine and chilli sauce. A massaman curry arrives at the same time. I have no concerns about this dish, as curries are far better when cooked earlier and the spices have time to combine, as is the case here. It’s a mix of beef cubes and potato pieces with a sprinkling of roasted peanuts wallowing in a sweet/spicy sauce. An accompanying serve of boiled rice, however, is tired and has a dry, cake-like covering, instead of being a steaming bowl of individual fluffy white pearls. Royal Siam lacks the ‘wow factor’ to be near the top of my list of Thai diners here in the west, but it is quite When Sonia Joseph recently found a vacant The menu is tiny but appropriate for a restaurant acceptable and it’s BYO, which is handy whenrestaurant premises in the parish she was of this size and the wine list again is small, but you’ve access to a wine collection at home. Asmitten, signed up quickly and the name of her esoteric in selection, with more than a few imports; liquor store is a cork-pop away if you aren’t sonew digs was a spontaneous one when she diners may require a little help in choosing an fortunate. My favourite wine for Thai food is agazed at a large number of blackbirds frolicking appropriate wine for their meal. Blackbird is youthful traminer, however any light, spicy, youngon the water outside. After a refurb, Blackbird a place where you will not feel intimidated by white/red would be agreeable. 83 Royal St, Eastopened in mid-2010. It seats about 30 inside dropping in for an entree and a glass of wine on Perth; phone (08) 9218 8838.and another 20 alfresco on the pavement, under the way home, or having a more substantial mealcover. Intimate and cosy, it’s a snappy bistro with some friends over a few hours. I’m impressed, Left: Blackbird waterfront dining. Right: Confit of duck legwith fine stemware, crockery and pristine white and there should be more of this style of restaurant served with couscous, preserved orange and bearnaise.cotton tablecloths. The food is exactly as bistro in the burbs. 10 Eastbrook Tce, East Perth;fare should be - not complicated, well-priced and phone (08) 9225 7880.prepared/presented with care and pride. The Royal is a decent-sized pub with a location We start with a complimentary bowl of tiny that most hotel owners would give their beer-green olives and fresh crusty bread. Then a pulling arm for. Situated right on Claisebrook Coveconfit of duck leg is served with couscous, with protection from the south-westerly winds andpreserved orange and bearnaise, as a main for views east along the water to the Swan River, it$34. The kitchen has put thought into this dish. has a magical setting. Diners have a choice ofIt’s a balanced mix of crispy-skin sweet duck waterside dining tables or tables inside, a menuleg, nutty al dente jewels of Israeli couscous, the of seafood, pasta, meat dishes and tapas plates.intermittent hit of sweet and tart orange pieces Drinkers are offered local hand-crafted beersand then the soft creaminess of the bearnaise on tap, bottled beers, a large range of winessauce, which unites the ingredients. A micro- by the glass/bottle and great cocktails for thoseherb embellishment enhances the appearance. who prefer a more exotic taste. And sports fansThere are fine flavours and textures here. are well catered for with a Fox Sports action bar Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 41

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KING I am an habitue of the spree of upmarket restaurants as Aki’s signature dish and rightly so. Iddiapam, or chef Andy Bunn hails from Yorkshire but has a firm that line Finger Wharf in Woolloomooloo, regularly string hoppers, are a speciality of the region circling grip on great Italian food, as does Liz Condon, dining at Otto and China Doll. But I have to admit Chennai. Rice flour dough is forced through a special who helms the kitchen at Walsh Bay. There are that I had only been to Aki’s Indian Restaurant press to create string-like ‘noodles’ which are shaped always several freshly made pasta dishes but once before a recent visit. My loss, I’m afraid. I into a delicate pancake. This is topped with blue standout regulars include spicy quail ragu and have no excuses to offer beyond laziness and swimmer crab mixed with tomatoes, black mustard cod pate topped with mussels and served on forgetfulness for not visiting this spectacularly seeds and ginger, and a sothi (coconut broth) is bruschetta. A must for locals and visitors. Shop 8, authentic restaurant more often. poured over just before you dig into this luscious 16 Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay; phone (02) 8243 2700. combo with your fingers or a fork. The prices are pretty reasonable for such a trendy Spicy Sichuan is another repeat, this time of the setting, too. Not that they are as cheap as the average The dosa, filled with spiced potatoes, onion and original in Glebe. Located closer to the heartland of Indian neighbourhood eatery, but nor should they be mustard and served with a lentil sambar and onion Chinatown, just off Dixon St, the mark two version has given the plush decor, high-quality ingredients and chutney, sounded like a rather hearty dish for an a much fancier decor than its forerunner. There’s no superb presentation that have earned a 14.5/20 in entree. How wrong can you be? I hesitate to call catering to unadventurous palates, either. Spice and the 2011 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide. it a pancake because the super-light dosa that heat distinguish most dishes, from the noodles to If owner/chef Kumar Mahadevan ever decides to arrived made a crepe seem as thick as a pikelet. whole chickens saturated in chillies. The sweet buns are a knockout and so is the ma po tofu, where the return to his homeland, his skills would be in hot Listed in the specials was Madras prawn vendaki, bean curd does little to tame the fire of the chillies. demand in such hallowed environments as Masala spruiked with the legend, ‘as seen on MasterChef’. 2 Cunningham St, City; phone (02) 9211 4900. Kraft, the signature restaurant of the legendary Taj I ordered the less-publicised Goan prawn curry Mahal Palace & Tower Hotel in Mumbai. instead - black tiger prawns cooked in a delicate For all those who crave the gourmet version of masala with ground coconut and kokum. It was childhood comfort food, Paul McMahon of the multi- Unlike many Indian chefs, Kumar does not restrict a tough final choice, too, with such other main hatted Catalina has opened The Battery. Fry-up is himself to standard North Indian fare. The influence contenders as chappa pulusa (barramundi fillets the motto here, whether it’s top-class fish and chips of his mother’s southern cooking style is very evident. cooked with tamarind, chillies and fenugreek) and or gourmet burgers and polenta chips. The regular We started with two South Indian entrees - crab with duck milagu masala (in a rich South Indian sauce chips are the object of pilgrimage - short and hand- iddiapam and masala dosa. The crab is flagged of tomatoes, fried cinnamon and star anise). cut. The starters menu offers a bit more choice, from school prawns with aioli through octopus salad and42 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011 We couldn’t go past the Patiala goat curry, fresh oysters. Salads, on the other hand, are very though. What a triumph of slow-cooked, fork-tender straightforward, mainly large wedges of lettuce with meat offset by a deep red sauce of tomato, ginger, your choice of rich, creamy dressings. Don’t skimp on garlic and mace. The accompanying naan was a the house-made side sauces just because they cost standout - plain or studded with garlic - soft and $3 extra, and experiment with three at a time to go fresh from the tandoor oven. Tandoor dishes are with your choice of ‘catch of the day’. But it’s back to also something of a speciality at Aki’s, from kingfish the frying pan for dessert. All of them are fried, from to lamb cutlets, as well as the usual chicken. churros and beignets to fried custard. Prices are very reasonable for the generous servings and you can Kumar keeps the surprises coming with Aki’s order takeaway, too. A top wine list is an unexpected dessert listings. Yes, kulfi gets a run and it’s very perk. An absolute winner. Shop 15, 425 Bourke St, good. But those with a sweet tooth can also satisfy Surry Hills; phone (02) 9357 3000. their craving with chocolate naan with strawberries or beetroot halwa - cooked with milk, ghee and sultanas Above: Aki’s Indian Restaurant interior & Aki’s 3 curries. and served with rose petal ice-cream. If any dish at Aki’s deserves fame on TV, this delicate pudding should get the nod. Out came a burgundy-coloured mound that looked like a steamed pudding, but the earthiness of the beetroot tempered with rose- flavoured ice truly rated the description memorable. As did the setting - overlooking the water with dazzling views of the CBD skyline. 1/6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo; phone (02) 9332 4600. The first Cafe Sopra began life in the gentrifying city-edge suburb of Waterloo, followed by an outpost in Potts Point. You can hardly find a parking spot at both locations, but the third Cafe Sopra in Walsh Bay makes it much easier to drive to lunch or dinner. One constant governs all three establishments, though - you can’t book ahead. Part of Fratelli Fresh, the trendy providores, this smart bistro features about 40 dishes on its daily menu so it can take some time to choose. Executive

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELAs each year comes to a close, so do a few Pastry chef extraordinaire Caroline Jones and slightly more elaborate venison scotch eggs andrestaurant doors, but in Brisbane and Noosa partner and chef Peter Carter ventured over to roasted organic duck with caramelised apples. 201at least, the sound of one door shutting is met Graceville in Brisbane’s west, opening Boucher, Gympie Tce, Noosaville; phone (07) 5470 2224.with new ones swinging open. In September, an attractive French bistro concentrating on thethe large and impressive double doors of Belle classics. Previously at the River Canteen in South Long-term Ricky’s front of house man PascalEpoque shut for the last time. For many, this was Bank, the pair also has Beastie Burgers, an Turschwell has left to open his own bistro in thea sad day and the end of an era. A vast space upmarket burger bar on Grey St, also at South heart of Hastings St. Called Gaston, it’s openwith an equally large bar, the place was dogged Bank. They opened a second Beasties next from 7am until midnight every day, offering anwith service issues that sometimes marred the door to Boucher to cater to the large, suburban all-day breakfast and full menu for supper untilexperience. The shiny red awnings came down demand. At Boucher expect to find luscious 11pm, which is rare for Noosa. About 80 winesand now the vivid red of the art deco interior versions of sweetbreads and sauteed mushrooms, make up the international list, of which about 30has become a more subtle study in black and bacon lardons on toasted brioche, duck liver are poured by the glass. 5/50 Hastings St, Noosawhite. Now at the helm is Gold Coast veteran and pork belly terrine and roasted Moreton Bay Heads; phone (07) 5447 4566. Ex-Ricky’s chef Marcrestaurateur Tony Percuoco, ex-Fellini replacing bugs with garlic custard on creamed celeriac. Wohner took over River House, renaming it Riverthe red, white and blue flag for the Italian Traditional bouillabaisse, tarte tatins and salted Cottage and taking it to a slightly more casual level. butterscotch souffles are also proving popular 301 Weyba Rd, Noosaville; phone (07) 5449 7441.Tricolore. Belle Epoque became Tartufo in early with locals. Shop 8, 365 Honour Ave, Graceville;October and the menu morphed from cassoulets phone (07) 3379 1322. The Ricky’s kitchen is now in the capable handsand confits to pappardelle and porcetta. of former Alegria at Sunshine Beach chef/owner The Buffalo Club, a couple of stories above a Glen Bowman. Thoroughly versed in modern Modern Italian chairs now line the entrance and busy Valley intersection, was one of 2009’s most Australian cuisine with a strong affinity for Spanishthe bar is all negroni cocktails and Aperol, Chianti anticipated openings with renowned chef, Ryan and Mediterranean food, Glen brings years ofand Montepulciano. Tony is well known for his Squires, formerly of Per Se in New York, at the experience to the kitchen, which opens onto thefresh, light take on Italian classics, as well as his burners. Ryan gave Brisbane its molecular edge stunning dining space that overlooks a wide reachobsession with the finest produce he can lay his in colourful and highly creative forms but has since of the Noosa River.hands on. Meat is sourced from all over the country moved on and word is that his own restaurant, on– veal and pork come from closer to home in the the river in the CBD, wedged between Alchemy There’s a tapas menu as well as entree andGreen Mountains and Kingaroy, while lamb and and Zen Central, will open in early 2011. main, which includes little delicacies like smokedblack Angus beef hail from South Australia. tomato pithivier with charella goat’s feta, foie gras Back at Buffalo Club, sous chef Ashly Hicks has parfait with black cherry vinegar and Mooloolaba Expect handmade gnocchi steeped in fresh tomato taken over from Ryan and, while he is still only 26, prawns with chorizo, crispy potato and smokedand gratineed with grana and provola, Coral Sea crab is proving to be a formidable protege, lending his paprika aioli. Entrees and mains feature flavourstimbale with blood orange segments and citrus mayo, slightly more robust style to the club-like venue. In of the Mediterranean and Middle East andas well as classics like vitello tonnata, pan-seared Ryan’s day the menu was all degustation but Ashly there’s a strong emphasis on sourcing great localscallops over cauliflower puree over grilled beets, has loosened the reins a bit, allowing for lots more produce wherever possible. It’s the perfect spotand pappardelle with rabbit ragu. Emporium 1000, flexibility. It’s now open on Fridays for lunch, with a for a lazy holiday lunch or for drinks and tapasAnn St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3852 1500. five-course menu at $60, or $100 if matched with in the evenings while watching the sun go down. wines. At night you can choose between the Cape A leisurely ferry and gondola service leaves from just Meanwhile, the patisserie that adjoined Belle Buffalo, Wild Buffalo or White Buffalo. The latter is the behind Hastings St and deposits you at the dock inEpoque has expanded into more space and now full 12 courses specially designed by Ashly and his front of the restaurant. Noosa Wharf, 2 Quamby Place,boasts an indoor seating area as well as several team, while the others are pared-back versions. You Noosa Heads; phone (07) 5447 2455.outdoor tables. But across the road, popular can either design your own dego or have the kitchenbreakfast haunt Depot has closed quietly and is create it on your behalf. Dishes like Glasshouse Left: Ricky’s Noosa. Right: Tartufo’s capesante alla grigliayet to reincarnate. Mountain snails scented with garlic and served in a - pan seared scallops on grilled beetroots © Alex Favali. terracotta pot, or sauteed foie gras with red peppers and wafer-thin pain d’epices exemplify this eclectic and innovative menu. Level 1/234, Wickham St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3216 1323. In Noosa, change is also afoot. David Rayner (ex- Berardo’s and River House) has opened a casual little bistro at Noosaville called Thomas Corner. After taking some time off to formulate the next move, David and wife Belinda have created a very casual, deeply Noosa locale overlooking the river. Pots of herbs sit on undressed tables and one wall is covered in greenery, adding a soft, tranquil feel to the place. The food is uber-casual and totally tempting - think spanner crab sandwiches with lime mayo and watercress, seafood quiches and, Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 43

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVIN Could 2010 be the year of the offshoot in Melbourne? confusing. The food is what you would expect from The Little Press & Cellar is the revamped Chefs have been going casual here, taking over a casual, buzzy Chinese dining house: soups, former bar in the Press Club restaurant. The the reins of cafes and amping up the quality lots of dumplings and bigger dishes like scallops Little Press has a more studied approach to for the customer, but the other trend to emerge and eggplant in a claypot with chilli sauce. It’s the wines by the glass list and the smaller this year seems to be the second restaurant or, worth a look just to try out the computer system, dishes on the menu are there to support the more interestingly, the bar complete with menu of and the big flavours synonymous with Hu Tong drinks list, rather than the other way around. appropriately sized snacks and plates-to-share. are certainly there. 6/206 Bourke St, Melbourne; The wine list is a highlight here as George has phone (03) 9662 3688. installed the enomatic system with which to St Kilda restaurant Mahjong, well known and preserve wines, which means that old wines loved for it’s yum cha, has opened a smaller, Neil Perry has listened to his customers from can be opened and bought by the glass, and elegant restaurant in the heart of the CBD. Rockpool Bar & Grill who keep coming back to then stored and preserved appropriately. For a Mahjong Black is a beautifully designed room enjoy a small meal and drink in the restaurant’s customer, it’s a great situation to be in. Wines in black, silver and different shades of white. It bar area, and opened The Waiting Room, a you’ve read about, desired or thought were out is a restaurant in every sense, with well-dressed beautiful room in the lobby of Crown Towers in of your price range by the bottle can be bought waiters, clothed tables, stunning lighting and food the Crown Casino Complex. There’s been a lot by the glass (and you can, theoretically, return presented with a fresh, generous perspective. of research into getting this place just right and the next day to have another glass if the mood There are classic Chinese flavours on the menu - it shows in the detail of the room. The design was should take you). These adventures for your wine perhaps steamed silky egg with scallops or virgin influenced by the aesthetics of grand European palate are then matched by classic Calombaris beef (slow-cooked beef with white radish and hotels; environments that speak opulence and flavours like grilled octopus with olive oil oyster sauce gravy) - and mains might include comfort as well as timelessness and sensibility. and lemon juice, potted rabbit or a textural eggplant with spicy meat sauce or an unctuous, This is the place to take the cocktail hour - the explosion of prawn kataifi with avocado and crispy-fried local lobster tail, but the time and classics are all here: the Singapore Sling, the attiki honey dressing. 72 Flinders St, Melbourne; detail that has clearly gone into this project as martini, as well as modern drinks with a nod to phone (03) 9677 9677. a whole ensures that Mahjong Black isn’t your the future. Billionaire’s Downfall, anyone? average Chinese restaurant. 118 Little Collins St, Long-term Fitzroy bistro Madam SouSou has Melbourne; phone (03) 9650 8873. The food is built around the drinks menu and opened Le Cellier directly next door in what Neil is focusing on a tapas style of eating - small was a former barber shop. Le Cellier is focused The Hu Tong group who operate the blisteringly dishes for sharing which may include bocadillos on take-home meals for customers to heat up busy Hu Tong dumpling restaurants in the CBD and montaditos, pinchos (small skewers of when they don’t have time to cook and decadent and Prahran, have opened China Red, also in big flavours) and fiery dishes such as Angel’s sandwiches like roast beef with bearnaise the city. It’s down a recently renovated arcade beef empanadas with chilli tomato sauce, and sauce on a baguette; and is also used for a in between Bourke St and Little Bourke St in the robustness in octopus and chorizo braised with centre of Chinatown and is vibrant in its decor - garlic and black ink. This is a place to play spillover of the crowd at SouSou. This is classic lots of dark wood and bright reds with Chinese dress-up or just go and relax. It is following the casual French fare with beef bourguignon touches that are more style than cliche. The ongoing trend of creating a space for yourself pie, pates, pissaladiere and even a French- point of difference here is the ordering system. in that you may use The Waiting Room to share inspired sausage roll, as well as salads and Computer touch-screens are set by each table a few plates at the bar as an aperitif to a longer house-made cakes and tarts (try the honey and and this is how you order everything you need evening elsewhere, or settle in for a while and lavender madeleine). 231 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; (including a request for a glass of water). The graze throughout the evening. Crown Complex, phone (03) 9417 0400. screens are easy to navigate: order your drinks Southbank; phone (03) 8679 1800. and they arrive with one of the friendly waiters who Left: Le Cellier interior. Right: The Waiting Room. can help you with the screen if things get a little George Calombaris’s Press Club has also opened a bar that’s more than just a bar -44 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

wine investment & collectingAruecptioonrts including two bottles of 1994 and 1997 Quinta AUCTION DATES Do Noval Nacional Vintage Port, selling for $1425LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS each. Super-premium champagne was another LANGTON’S WINE(SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER REPORT) feature, with a bottle of 1962 Moet & Chandon AUCTIONS & EXCHANGESpring brought with it an influx of new stock to Dom Perignon Oenotheque Brut realising over January 11-25 (Sydney)Langton’s, much of it premium Australian and $1700 and a Jeroboam of 1999 Louis Roederer January 25-February 8 (Melbourne)imported wine from strong vintages. The rise Cristal Brut achieving $3450. A single vendor February 8-22 (Sydney)in volumes provided an opportunity to conduct insurance auction, comprising mainly Burgundy, February 22-March 8 (Melbourne)several single-vendor auctions in addition to attracted a high level of interest and competitivethe regular calendar. The combined effect of an bidding as buyers sought out potential bargains STERLING WINEincreased number of auctions, steady demand among a strong offering of top producers and AUCTIONS & EXCHANGEand a proliferation of new listings contributed excellent vintages. January 28-February 9 (consignmentto an upswing in market momentum. Disparity deadline January 24)between vendors’ reserves and buyers’ price A larger than average volume of premium February 25-March 9 (consignmentexpectations, particularly in the mid-tier Burgundy Penfolds wines listed in August and September deadline February 21)market, continues to persist – however, robust resulted in softening prices for Grange over earlyprices for rare Burgundy from top producers and spring, although by the end of October prices ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONSback vintages of classified growth Bordeaux have had picked up and were gaining strength. Strong January 18contributed to market traction. demand for older vintages from the 1960s led the results, with a 1962 achieving over $1080 GRAYSONLINE Although clearance rates slowed over the July/ in Sydney and $1495 in Melbourne. The 1960 Daily wine auctions (featuring a rangeearly August period, in September and October vintage also proved in strong demand, reaching of red and white wines and regionalLangton’s continued to prune out over-exposed over $1700 in Sydney. Penfolds St Henri continued and country-specific sales)lots and those with high reserves - resulting in its rise, with a bottle of 1966 fetching over $1150.fresh catalogues and buoyant clearance rates. Larger formats also featured, with magnums of (All dates subject to change,Healthy prices were maintained for Australian 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon sold without notice)wines from top producers and premium New for close to $1100.Zealand pinot noirs. Strong demand for Hillof Grace pushed prices of many vintages to Strong price results continued throughtop estimate levels. A highlight of Sydney’s September/October for well-known AustralianSeptember sale was the extraordinary inclusion wines in the $50-150 price range from goodof a mixed case of 1999 Domaine de la Romanee producers. There was also dynamic biddingConti, selling for $40,250. Exceptional prices activity in Melbourne for classified wine from topwere also achieved at Melbourne’s October sale, vintages, including 1998 Chris Ringland Shiraz reaching over $1000, ’98 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz achieving $632 and a magnum of 1966 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon realising close to $580. Bordeaux First Growths continued to perform well in Sydney, with a 2003 Chateau Petrus achieving $3450 and back vintages of 1959 and ’82 Chateau Latour selling for $2101 and $1904 respectively. In Melbourne, collectors had the opportunity to acquire strong vintages of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, with a 1999 La Tache realising $4255 and a 2002 achieving over $3090. For more information, visit www.langtons.com.au. ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS (OCTOBER REPORT) Despite the onset of spring, the winter red drinking season continued unabated at Oddbins’ October sale. Budget reds, mainly shiraz but also a good smattering of local cabernets and imported tempranillo, were the order of the day. Buyers were still on the lookout for classic collectibles, but prices eased marginally over this auction and clearance rates were slightly down on the yearly average. Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 45

wine investment & collecting Auction Popular among buyers were Barossa Valley’s flagship Hill of Grace from the 1990s cleared very E&E Black Pepper Shiraz, Clarendon Hills Astralis, well,” says Oddbins valuer and auctioneer GrahamCash especially the impressive 2002 vintage, most of the Wright. “The condition of the Henschke offeringsNOW! Giaconda on offer (cabernets and chardonnays), Jim appears to be an issue, as many of the offerings Barry Armagh from a wide variety of vintages and are less than perfect.”In a Hurry? Kay Brothers’ equally famous Block 6, especially from the early 2000s. Noon Winery appears to be in strong With Australian fortifieds, pre-1970 vintage portThe Wine Auction Process will get demand again, especially with its premium reserve styles continue to attract good clearances andyou better returns, but it could take shiraz and cabernet from the 2000s. Also clearing well prices - especially if they are from the famousmonths to sell every last bottle. was the large offering of Peter Lehmann’s flagship fortified producers like Hardys, Orlando, Seppelt Stonewell and Rockford Basket Press, which has and Stonyfell. Tawny sales, in particular the horseConsider a quick cash deal? been a little slow over the past couple of auctions. ports from St Hallett and Yalumba, appear to have flattened out over the past couple of auctions.Sterling has a monthly “Live on Line” A couple of surprises included good clearancesWine Auction that taps huge for the cabernets and chardonnays from Adelaide The supply of European wine has also slowedInternational demand for premium Hills winery Bird in Hand, and Rymill cabernet but there was good demand in October for theback vintages. Find out how Sterling from 1997 - not the most renowned vintage from Sauternes offerings from the 1980s and ’90s andworks harder and smarter to produce Coonawarra. Wynns John Riddoch also appears to strong demand for the large offering of vintagethe best results for you. be catching the attention of Oddbins’ buyers again, Portuguese ports. It would appear Australians with most lots sold in October. are also getting a taste for well-priced Spanish FREE Auction Catalogues varietals, as they cleared very well also. On the FREE Bidder Registration Penfolds and Henschke wines are perennial spirits front, there was a big offering of old and auction favourites. Penfolds Bin 707 is raging along classic single malts on offer; the star performer Phone Lynton 08 9388 9955 with no sign of the market letting up on its current was Bundaberg’s Vat 100 Centenary Rum, or 0418 949 837, insatiable demand, with bidding on average moving fetching a hammer price of $655. towards the top end of the guides. Bins 28 and or www.sterlingwine.com.au 389 continue to clear well, as does the Red Wine For further information visit www.oddbins.com.au. Trial Shiraz from 1997 and 2000. Penfolds GrangeSTERLING dominated Oddbins’ Top 10 list of hammer prices GRAYSONLINE Wine Auctions & Exchange paid for Australian wine in October, with a bottle (OCTOBER REPORT) of the 1963 topping the table at $751. GraysOnline has continued to see exceptional growth in demand and supply, with the “With the Henschke wines, continued short representation of over 800 lots throughout October. supply makes for a dull story, except to say the With a constant and consistently good supply of Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Oddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps… Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids!46 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011 - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... What we do Best! It’s

wine investment & collectingiconic Australian labels, GraysOnline is gracing the of Torbreck, Two Hands, Wynns, d’Arenberg, putting the Chinese character for lucky numbercellars of avid collectors and sellers alike. Rosemount, St Hallett, Coriole and many more. eight on the 2008 vintage bottles. Prices jumped by 25 per cent in one day!” During October, the company achieved some GraysOnline still have wines which are drinkingof the best prices ever seen on a great range of well and cater to every palate, such as 2003 Henry’s On the domestic front, the top brand segmentvintages. A phenomenal 73 bottles of Penfolds Drive Reserve Shiraz, McWilliam’s Barwang Shiraz, continues to perform strongly at sale. Sterling’sGrange, ranging from 1969 to 2004, reached an 1998 Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Cabernet Merlot, November auction catalogued over 200 bottlesaverage selling price of $474. The highlights from the 2002 Penfolds Bin 128 Shiraz and 2005 Rosemount of Penfolds Bin 707, from many choice vintages.Penfolds range were two 1992 vintages - one selling Balmoral Syrah - which all achieved great results. “At over $200 a bottle for most of this unusualfor an astonishing $580 and the other for $499. consignment, we might have flooded the marketA 2003 sold at a record $574, and a 1969 at $482. For more information, visit www.graysonline. - but not even a blip!” says Lynton. “Every bottle - com or email [email protected] (all prices listed other than two in poor condition - was swallowed Australia’s other favourite, Henschke Hill of Grace include buyer’s premium). up at prices that were very close to top market. InShiraz, also tipped the scales with a 1991 and the same sale we tried to give Wild Duck Creek1999 vintage selling for an amazing $410 a bottle. STERLING WINE AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE Duck Muck away at a fraction of the high auctionAnother great result was for the 2008 Henschke (2010 ANNUAL REPORT) prices seen a few years ago. Not a nibble!”Mount Edelstone Shiraz at $96 a bottle. Torbreck The international wine crisis has been seen fromRun Rig also gained a lot of interest in the week- all sides now. Gluts, the rampant Australian dollar, Lynton names Penfolds Grange, Penfolds Bin 707long sale, achieving $160 a bottle. ever-changing tastes and the Euro forces striking and d’Arenberg The Dead Arm as his big winners back at the New World have cooked up fun times for 2010 and cites Australian riesling and semillon Some lucky purchasers struck gold when they for all. However, as Sterling’s Lynton Barber as the varieties to keep an eye on into the future.found a sale filled with interesting labels such as reports, if you have strong brands and proven2004 Hobbs Gregor Shiraz - running out at $77 a distribution, no GFC or radical social changes will “If the dollar exchange rate goes back and thebottle - along with the 2003 vintage at $60. Demand slow you down. Americans discover the quality and price of ourwas hot for 1994 Houghton Jack Mann Cabernet rieslings, then watch out - the good stuff will beSauvignon Malbec Shiraz, which reached $77, and “Let’s look at the world wine wonder brand, exported and prices will double,” he says. “Samethe 1998 Moss Wood Glenmore Vineyard Cabernet Chateau Lafite,” says Lynton. “Lafite prices have with semillon - there are precious few quality oldSauvignon at $113. strengthened radically over the past five years, vineyards in the Hunter and if the stuff catches on with clever marketing of a great wine capturing the as it should, prices will boom. Also, buy up good- A huge proportion of customers have taken a imagination of the Chinese, Indians and Americans. value wines like McWilliam’s Elizabeth Semillonliking to the tastefully themed, specialty mixed Lafite know their market and have worked their way and Leo Buring Riesling (under screw caps) andcases carefully parcelled together by GraysOnline’s to the very top of the Chinese pile with some very store them cool. I predict Grosset Polish Hill will hitwine specialists. Customers are enjoying the cunning stunts: special auctions in Beijing, special $US100 a bottle inside the next five years.”For morevariety of vintages and the amazing auction price. visits to Shanghai and - the cherry on the cake - information visit www.sterlingwine.com.au.Customers have been treated to sampling a range AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 47

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. BROKENWOOD D’ARENBERG 2004 $150 1999 $75 1997 $150 1996 $65 Graveyard Shiraz The Dead Arm 2005 $120 2000 $65 1998 $190 1997 $70 1990 $90 Shiraz 2005 $120 2001 $80 1999 $130 1998 $70 1991 $100 1994 $120 2002 $100 2000 $120 1999 $80 1992 Not Released 1995 $55 2003 $65 2001 $130 2000 $75 E & E Black 1993 $75 1996 $75 Eileen Hardy 2004 $75 2002 $200 2001 $80  Pepper Shiraz 1994 $80 1997 $56 Shiraz 2004 $145 2002 $851990 $90 1995 $65 1998 $65 Mount Edelstone 2003 $1101991 $90 1996 $95 1999 $50  1990 $65 1990 $120 2004 $851992 $56 1997 $70 2000 $40 1991 $50 1991 $90  1993 $70 1998 $110 2001 $50 1992 $50 1992 $751994 $70 1999 $80 2002 $55 Meshach 1993 $55 1993 $80 KAY BROS Majella1995 $60 2000 $95 2003 $65 1990 $110 1994 $60 1994 $75 Block 6 Old Vine The Malleea Shiraz1996 $90 2001 $65 2004 $60 1991 $75 1995 $65 1995 $751997 $70 2002 $60 2005 $48 1992 $65 1996 $70 1996 $95 Shiraz Cabernet1998 $85 2003 $80 1993 $60 1997 $50 1997 $65 1990 $95 1996 $551999 $70 2004 $75  1994 $75 1998 $85 1998 $85 1991 $50 1997 $482000 $55 1995 $65 1999 $50 1999 $65 1992 $65 1998 $702001 $60 1996 $85 2000 $55 2000 $65 1993 $50 1999 $502002 $85 1997 Not Released 2001 $75 2001 $75 1994 $60 2000 $422003 $54 1998 $95 2002 $55 2002 $120 1995 $50 2001 $50 1999 $80 2003 $80 1996 $65 2002 $55 CLARENDON HILLS 2000 $70 2004 $85 1997 $45 2003 $65 Astralis Shiraz 2001 $85 Keyneton Estate 1998 $75 2004 $55 1994 $220 2002 $75 1990 $45 1999 $60 1995 $210 1991 $45 2000 $50 1996 $300 1992 $34 2001 $60  BASS PHILLIP 1997 $250 DE BORTOLI GREENOCK CREEK Hill of Grace 1993 $45 2002 $70Premium Pinot Noir 1998 $320 Noble One (375ml) Roennfeldt Rd 1980 $260 1994 $36 2003 $55 1999 $310 1990 $45 Shiraz 1981 $230 1995 $34 2004 $65 1990 $80 2000 $270 1991 $40 1982 $240 1996 $50 2005 $54 1991 $100 2001 $300 1992 $24 1995 $370 1983 $240 1997 $34 1992 $120 2002 $300 1993 $30 1996 $320 1984 $200 1998 $55 1993 $100 2002 $210 1994 $45 1997 $220 1985 $210 1999 $36 MOSS WOOD 1994 $120 1995 $38 1998 $380 1986 $350 2000 $40 Cab Sauv 1995 $95 1996 $45 1999 $180 1987 $210 2001 $261996 $115 1997 $24 2000 $220 1988 $250 2002 $40 1990 $1201997 $180 2001 $230 1989 $240 2003 $30 KATNOOK ESTATE 1991 $100  2002 $220 1990 $400 2004 $30 Odyssey Cab Sauv 1992 $1201998 $110 CLONAKILLA 1998 $40 1991 $65 1993 $901999 $140 Shiraz Viognier 1999 $30 Roennfeldt Road 1991 $360 Georgia’s Paddock 1992 $65 1994 $1502000 $110 1993 $65 2000 $25 Cabernet 1992 $300 1990 $110 1993 Not Released 1995 $1702001 $90 1994 $85 2001 $24 Sauvignon 1993 $260 1991 $60 1994 $75 1996 $1502002 $145 1995 $65 2002 $40 1994 $320 1992 $80 1995 Not Released 1997 $852003 $110 1996 $100 2003 $24 1995 $300 1995 $230 1993 $95 1996 $120 1998 $1402004 $85 1997 $100 2004 $25 1996 $200 1996 $430 1994 $85 1997 $65 1999 $1002005 $80 1998 $85 1997 $165 1997 $260 1995 $75 1998 $85 2000 $110 1998 $290 1998 $450 1996 $70 1999 $65 2001 $120 1999 $55 1999 $250 1999 $340 1997 $65 2000 $80 2002 $95 2000 $65 2000 $250 2001 $320 1998 $80 2001 $65 2003 $95 2001 $100 Elderton 2001 $240 2002 $420 1999 $70 2004 $85 Command Shiraz 2002 $260 2000 $65 Best’s Thomson 2002 $85 1990 $100 2001 $75 LEASINGHAM Family Shiraz 2003 $85 1991 Not Released 2002 $75 Classic Clare MOUNT MARY 2004 $90 1992 $75 2003 $75 Quintet1992 $85 2005 $70 1993 $65 2004 $75 Shiraz1993 Not Released 2006 $70 1994 $90 2005 $55  1991 $45 1990 $2001994 $70 1995 $75 1992 $25 1991 $1101995 $110 1996 $95  Hill of Grace Armagh Shiraz 1993 $30 1992 $1101996 $110 1997 $80 Magnum 1990 $220 1994 $55 1993 $801997 $75 1998 $80 1980 $500 1991 $180 1995 $30 1994 $1201998 $100 1999 $60 Grossett 1981 Not Released 1992 $120 1996 $60 1995 $1001999 Not Released 2000 $65 Polish Hill Riesling 1982 $530 1993 $110 1997 $25 1996 $1502000 Not Released 2001 $80 1990 $55 1983 $480 1994 $130 1998 $55 1997 $952001 $80 2002 $60 1991 $45 1995 $130 1999 $30 1998 $1602004 $70 1992 $45 1984 $420 1996 $150 2000 Not Released 1999 $120 2001 $25 2000 $150 1993 $45 1985 Not Released 2002 $35 2001 $120 1986 $950 2002 $110 Cabernet Merlot 1994 $45 1987 $650 2003 $110 1990 $95 2004 $110 BINDI 1991 $95 1995 $40 1988 $500 2005 $110Block 5 Pinot Noir 1992 $80 1996 $601997 $80 1993 $85 GIACONDA 1997 $45 1989 $6501998 $85 1994 $90 Chardonnay 1990 $8501999 Not Released 1995 $95 1990 $100 1998 $40 1991 $6502000 $160 1996 $100 1991 $80 1999 $402001 $95 1997 $85 1992 $85 2000 $35 1992 $6202002 $110 1998 $95 1993 $90 1994 $4502003 $85 1999 $90 1994 $100 2001 $40 2004 $140 2000 $75 1995 $85 2002 $502005 $120 2001 $80 1996 $130 2003 $45 Cyril Henschke2006 $70 2002 Not Released 1997 $90 1990 $95 2003 $75 1998 $125 2004 $35 1991 $85 2004 $70 1999 $110 2005 $55 2000 $110 2006 $40 1992 $75 Chardonnay 2001 $100 1993 $75 Art Series 2002 $140 2007 $42 1994 $75 Parker 1990 $65 Coonawarra Estate 1995 $65 1991 $70 1996 $90 1992 $55 First Growth 1997 $70 1993 $68 Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 $95 1994 $68 1990 $85 1995 $150 1991 $70 1992 Not Released48 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.1993 $60 1984 $880 St. Henri 1993 $35 2001 $40 Michael Shiraz FORTIFIEDS1994 $50 1985 $900 1990 $100 1994 $40 2002 $50 1955 $1,6001995 $55 1986 $2,000 1991 $95 1995 $35 2003 $50 1990 $110 Para Liqueur1996 $65 1987 $900 1992 $70  1996 $45 1991 $65 1878 $1,2001997 Not Released 1988 $800 1993 $70 1997 $45 SEPPELT 1992 Not Released 1879 $8701998 $75 1989 $850 1994 $60 1998 $60 Show Sparkling Shiraz 1993 $50 1880 $8001999 $70 1990 $2,000 1995 $60 1999 $38 1990 $140 1994 $55 1881 $8002000 $55 1991 $1,100 1996 $100 2000 $38 Shiraz 1991 $130 1995 Not Released 1887 $8002001 $55 1992 $1,000 1997 $60 2001 $40 1984 $65 1992 $70 1996 $55 1893 $1,0002002 $50 1993 $1,000 1998 $85 2002 $35 1985 $90 1993 $75 1997 $46 1899 $1,000 1994 $800 1999 $65 2004 $45 1986 $75 1994 $130 1998 $60 1908 $550 1995 $800 2000 $55 1987 $70 1995 $70 1999 $45 1910 $500 1996 $1,000 2001 $60 1990 $70 1996 $120 2003 $50  1922 $650 1997 $800 2002 $80 1991 $45 1997 $90 2004 $56 1925 $800 1998 $1,200 2003 $50 1993 $55 1998 $140 1927 $480  1994 $55 1999 $90 1930 $200 1999 $850 2004 $75 2000 $65 1933 $160 2000 $1,100 THREE RIVERS/ 1939 $150  2001 $1,100 Magill Estate Chris Ringland 2001 $95 1944 $90 Wines Shiraz 2002 $120 1947 $80 Bin 95 Grange 2002 $1,500 1990 $65 Stonewell Shiraz 1990 $800 2003 $80 1951 $3001951 $43,000 2003 $1,400 1991 $800 1976 $551952 $17,000  1991 $60 1990 $70 1992 $650 2004 $130 1977 $381953 $13,000 1992 $50 1993 $900 1978 $701954 $14,000 1993 $50 1991 $70 1994 $550 2005 $90 The Octavius Shiraz 1979 $521955 $3,600 1992 $60 1995 $550 1980 $301956 $14,000 1994 $55 1993 $60 1996 $1,300 1990 $75 1981 $1001957 $12,000 1997 Not Released 1991 Not Released Para Liqueur Bin1958 $12,000 1995 $45 1994 $65 1998 $1,000 1992 $601959 $2,000 1996 $70 1999 $900 Numbered1960 $1,400 1997 $50 1995 $60  2000 $460 WILD DUCK CREEK 1993 $45 NV $201961 $1,200 1996 $95 2001 $7001962 $1,100 1998 $60 1997 $65 ‘Duck Muck’ 1994 $701963 $1,000 Shiraz1964 $450 1999 $65 1998 $75 1994 $400 1995 $601965 $550  1999 $60 1996 $901966 $600  Bin 707 2000 $55 2000 $75 1995 $400 1997 $451967 $800 1980 $110 2001 $651968 $550 2001 $55 2002 $70 1996 Not Released 1998 $1001969 $550  1981 Not Released 2002 $501970 $360 1982 $110 2003 $45 1997 $490 1999 $601971 $1,000 1998 Not Released 2000 $601972 $320 1983 $120 2004 $55 1999 Not Released 2001 $851973 $320 1984 $951974 $380 1985 $100 2000 $310 2002 $90 1975 $400 Bin 3891976 $650 1986 $160 1990 $85 2001 $340 2003 $801977 $390 2002 $3601978 $430 1987 $110 1991 $60  2004 $290 1979 $300 Basket Press1980 $320 1988 $130 1992 $45 Shiraz1981 $280 1989 $1101982 $320 1990 $160 1993 $46 1990 $150 TORBRECK1983 $320 1994 $55 1991 $1351984 $300 1991 $140 1995 $45 1992 $95 Run Rig Shiraz1985 $300 1993 $80 1995 $250 Grandfather Port1986 $550 1992 $120 1996 $70 1994 $90 1996 $350 1940 $2401987 $290 1993 $130 1995 $80 1945 $220 1988 $320 1994 $130 1997 $40 1996 $130 1997 $240 Dry Red No. 1 1989 $300 1998 $70 1997 $80 1990 $1501990 $580 1995 Not Released 1999 $46 1998 $160 1998 $350 1991 $65 Vintage Port1991 $360 1996 $170 2000 $40 1999 $90 1999 $180 Black Label 1992 $55 1956 $1201992 $300 1997 $140 2000 $80 2000 Not Released 1990 $100 1993 $55 1958 $1701993 $320 1998 $210 2001 $40 2001 $80 2001 $190 1991 $75 1994 $70 1964 $1101994 $320 2002 $44 2002 $110 2002 $220 1992 $70 1995 $55 1965 $1101995 $300 1999 $130 2003 $40 2003 $75 2003 $200 1993 $70 1996 $65 1966 $1001996 $400 2000 Not Released 2004 $40 2004 $85 2004 $150 1994 $70 1997 $75  1967 $651997 $320 2001 $120 2005 $35 2005 $95 2005 $180 1995 $75 1998 $75 1968 $901998 $540 2002 $140 1996 $75 1999 $50  1971 $501999 $350 2003 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $65 2000 $420 RWT 2001 $1002001 $400 2004 $150 1997 $80 2002 $652002 $450 1998 $110 2003 $602003 $380 1998 $140 1999 $60 Bin 707 Magnum 1999 $90 2000 $70 1980 $190 2000 $90 2001 $80 1981 Not Released 2001 $85 2002 $120  1982 $210 2002 $120 2003 $60 1983 $250 2003 $90 Vat 1 Semillon 1984 $190 2004 $100 1990 $35 Moet et Chandon 1985 $140 Cuvee Dom 1986 $340 1991 $25 Perignon Block 42 1992 $35 1987 $190 Cab Sauv 1973 $310 1988 $180 1993 $35 1975 $250 1989 $175 1996 $420 1994 $35 1976 $240 1990 $380 2004 $420 1995 $30 1978 $290 1980 $150 1991 $240 Old Block Shiraz 1996 $45 John Riddoch 1982 $800 Cab Sauv 1983 $180 1992 $165 1990 $60 1997 $38 1990 $70 1985 $300 1998 $45 1988 $200 1993 $200 1991 $50 1999 $35 1991 $65 1990 $900 1992 $32 1992 $200 1994 $340 1993 $40 2000 $35 1992 $55 1993 $190 1995 Not Released 1995 $220 1996 $360 1994 $45 2001 $35 1993 $55 1996 $260 1997 $225 1995 $40 1994 $60 1998 $260 Bin 95 Grange 1998 $290 1996 $55 2002 $25 1995 Not Released 1999 $220  Magnum 2003 $24 2000 $260 Coonawarra 2004 $30 1996 $65 Red Blend1979 $2,000 1999 $190 1990 $60 1997 $40 2005 $25 1997 $501980 $1,200 2000 Not Released 1991 $55 1998 $65 1998 $751981 $1,000 2001 $250 1992 $40  1999 $45 2006 $26 1999 $521982 $950 2002 $235 2000 $40 2007 $30 2003 $451983 $1,000 2004 $50 Annual 2011 W I N E S TAT E 49

how we judgeWINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIAOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings aredesigned with one thing in mind: to provide auseful and genuine balanced guide on wines to ourreaders. In order to achieve this we follow certainprocedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult!There are regular criticisms of wine shows andvarious scoring systems; here is how we approachour tastings.A wide selection of wines star rating systemWines are invited from any producer, providedthat they meet the criteria of the class beingjudged. The class may be a regional or styletasting and generally the wines must be availablefor consumers to purchase, although we havemuseum and rare wine tastings as well.Awarding scores have not been entered by the wineries. In order judges with complementary backgrounds to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, and a three-person panel for each flight willWinestate carries out the judging using Australian Winestate includes advertising; however, this is include winemakers with technical expertisecapital city wine show procedures; the wines are fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. and often a marketing/retail expert who knowsnot known to the judges. The three judges taste the Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting consumer tastes. Often one or more of the judgeswines blind and assign a score without reference results and it is their choice to advertise if they are Masters of Wine with vast internationalto each other. Only then do they compare scores, wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are experience, and most judges have experienceand if there is dissension they re-taste the wines and published according to the judges’ scores, whether at major Australian wine shows. We are alsocome to an agreement. Scores are compiled using advertising is taken or not. aware of expertise. If we are judging a region,the 20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 and for example, we will have a winemaker judgeabove; silver is 17 and above and is excellent wine; The judges from that region because that person knows thebronze is 15.5 and above and represents good local style. We may balance that with a judgewine. A reasonable, sound everyday-drinking wine We take care in selecting our judges. But from outside the region and generally someonescores 15 (but does not gain a medal). A bland but remember: judges are human and their own with broad and mature experience.clean wine scores 14. Below this score there are preference will influence their scores. We useunpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ are thenconverted into a star rating system for publication how we comparein Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver is 4, andbronze is 3 stars. Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 100 Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 20 Point System 93 - 100The biggest judging system HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 90 - 92 HHHH Very Good Silver 18 - 18.4 85 - 89Winestate examines on average more Australasian HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 17 - 17.9 83 - 84wines per year than any other forum - more than HHH Good Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 78 - 8210,000. Compare this to the biggest show in 15.5 - 16.4Australia, the Royal Melbourne Wine Show, withjust over 4000 entries. Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific pointIndependence of advertising score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist.Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’wines to be evaluated where we believe thatthese are of consumer or trade interest if these50 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2011