Winestate Magazine March April 2019

Where it all began... Schubert Estate is located on some of the most sought-after pieces of dirt in the Barossa Valley - a special patch of five blocks terroir in Marananga in the Western Barossa. “The vines grow on red-brown loam over clay, ironstone and shale on a slightly elevated ridge of about 300 metres.” The terroir of the vineyard site leads to a strong expression of Barossa Valley Shiraz - wines that are opulent, concentrated and rich, packed with black fruit, chocolate and licorice aromas, expressive tannins and structured for aging. The wines have won many international awards. Today Schubert Estate has a “Five Star” rating for its Sentinel brand in Winestate magazine’s World’s Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge 2018. The flagship wines - The Goose-yard Block Shiraz and The Gander Reserve Shiraz also regularly receive high scores. www Discover our wines at: Adelaide City Cellar Door Open weekdays 9.00am - 5.00pm 26 Kensington Road, Rose Park SA 5067 Phone 08 8431 1457 Barossa Valley Cellar Door Open Thursday to Sunday, 10.00am - 4.30pm 261 Roennfeldt Road, Marananga SA 5055 Phone 08 8431 1457 www.schubertestate.com

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NO.294 MARCH/APRIL 2019 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Sydney’s best location, minutes from anywhere. NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Manager E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Sophia Clements E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Erin Larkin Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Mr Philippe Marquezy - Espace Quadri Phone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466 Web: www.espacequadri.com Email: [email protected] DISTRIBUTORS Australia Gordon and Gotch Australia P/L International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, The York by Swiss-Belhotel 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. 5 York Street, Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia Copyright2019byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwhole Tel: +61 2 9210 5000 or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic E-mail: [email protected] medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. swiss-belhotel.com Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 7

contents MARCH/APRIL 2019 R E G U L A R S 12 Briefs FEATURES 82 22 NZ Briefs 24 European Report with Sally Easton 30 IRONCLAD PASSION Wine and Spirits fair more than 26 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Eisenstone Wines, literally meaning 19,000 buyers and trade visitors 28 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King sampled drinks from more than 38 Grapevine iron stone, have a passion for all 1000 exhibitors from 33 countries, 44 Wine Investment & Collecting things shiraz and all things Barossa including a growing number of 46 What’s it Worth? as Nigel Hopkins found out after Australian wineries. China continues 98 Aftertaste chatting to founder/winemaker to be the market of choice, with Stephen Cook. At a time when the number of licensed importers W I N E TAST I N G S most wineries are producing growing from 812 in 206 to over “fruit-basket” wines sourced from 10,000 this year. 50 Central & Western Victoria everywhere, Cook maintains a 54 Italian & Spanish single focus on the iconic Barossa’s 82 EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED 61 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley most lauded variety. While Tokyo might be the headline 66 Chardonnay & Blends 72 Marlborough, NZ 32 STORY TIME act for most visitors to Japan, 77 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases With only one wine bearing its Winsor Dobbin writes that the Kansai region might be a cheaper 87 New Releases and Best Value label, Western Australia’s Story Bay and easier travel option for many Buys under $20. has a huge national following. So Australian tourists. Attractions much so that sales restrictions have are many and varied, with Osaka been placed on the annual output (Japan’s third city), Kyoto, Lake of its semillon sauvignon blanc Bewako, Himeji Castle, the historic blend, reports Mike Zekulich. First district in Nara and the thriving released in 2011, the wine rocketed city of Kobe among the must-visit to national attention, with demand locations. outstripping supply. And with a price tag of just $7 a bottle, the blend’s 2017 vintage walked away with Winestate’s Wine of the Year in the under $20 category. 36 THIRST FOR GREAT WINES CONTINUES TO GROW Asia’s love affair with premium wines continues unabated and more Australian wineries are taking notice of the trend, writes Dan Traucki. At the latest Hong Kong International For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Winestate Magazine 32 Issue Number 294 March/April 2019. Cover image igorr 8 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

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editorial IF THERE WAS AN ANTI-BUREAUCRACY PARTY I would join it tomorrow. Maybe even today! (Excludes Palmer party). Rules and guidelines are good but excessive ones are not and should be called out. There seems to be a level of bureaucracy creeping into the wine industry and I don’t like it. Here are some examples; In October 2018, the Australia and New Zealand Ministerial Forum on Food Regulation (the Forum) met and agreed that: “a mandatory labelling standard for pregnancy warning labels on packaged alcoholic beverages should be developed and should include a pictogram and relevant warning statement. The Forum requested Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) develop this mandatory labelling standard as a priority and that the work be completed expeditiously (mid 2019). Now no one is arguing that it is not a good idea to advise expectant mothers of the foetal risks of alcohol prior to birth, but isn’t that what every doctor tells their patients? I can’t imagine that there is anyone who doesn’t get this advice from their doctor. They may argue that this serves to alert women who aren't aware that they \"might possibly\" be pregnant of the risks. In my opinion, although relevant, this is a very small segment of all those who drink wine - particularly to the level that would cause foetal alcohol syndrome. So why do the rest of us who are neither pregnant, nor likely to be (this includes women who for whatever reason, whether their choice or otherwise, are exempt from this), need to see this warning and pictogram on every wine label? Shades of cigarette packs anyone... Are warnings for children and teenagers next? The elderly? Where does it end? Of course this began with US labelling rules where the strangely named sinners watchdog the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco & Firearms, (BATF), mandating this procedure. Whilst it is legal to buy guns in any supermarket in the US from 18 years of age without identity security safeguards, you have to wait until 21 to buy alcohol. So why are we following this illogical group? I know why – we are making a big marketing push into the States, with DrinkWise, the Industry spokesbody, made up predominantly of the big Australian companies, spruiking the plan. Saves a lot of money to have one standard back label! Another annoying proclamation from on high was an email that came across my desk with the advice that wineries selling their wines on-line by credit card needed proof of identity of the purchaser. Apparently this was to prevent sale to under age drinkers. This is of course after most sites that sell alcohol ask you to verify your age before you enter the site (obviously this is a ridiculous measure anyway as it can be duped)? Now think this through for a second. If you're underage you can't get a credit card. Secondly if you're under age and were desperate enough (yet patient - think shipping times) for a drink to use your parent’s card it would show up on their statement and more than likely be delivered to their house. If it's a stolen card that's a whole other story of which obtaining a limited amount of alcohol is probably the least of the culprits problems! Let's face it it's never been that hard for minors to be able to obtain alcohol whether sneaking some from their parents liquor cabinet or getting an older friend to buy it for them, why the hell would you order on-line? This is another level of bureaucracy dreamed up by the keyboard champions to add another layer of unnecessary business cost. And let’s not mention the privacy issue. And here’s another good one. Was told the other day that kid’s who had collected a big bag of empty beer, wine and soft drink cans and handed them in for some pocket money (South Australia has a ten cent can and bottle return policy) were told if the amount exceeded $200 they were required to provide an ABN number. These little capitalists were shocked. It is interesting to compare France to realise how far we are from freedom. Over there you can buy alcohol not only in any shop but also in hardware stores. You can pick up a nice Cognac in your local when you pick up the nails. Interesting, the level of alcoholism is negligible and binge drinking is almost unheard of. Wine is seen as a social drink, usually with food and to be consumed moderately, with family values at the core. Compare that with Australia where we have moved a step further with hard drug taking among the youth reaching epidemic proportions. A message to the anti-alcohol lobby “be careful what you wish for.” In my view if we don’t call out these illogical ideas, and don’t push back, it will ever continue until the anti-alcohol lobby manages to get its fingers into our glasses. In our interests, of course. Now there’s an ugly thought. Stress will kill you before your liver packs up (but this is never mentioned in discussions about wine and alcohol). Studies have shown that moderate drinkers outlive binge drinkers, and wait for it, also teetotalers. In the meantime please enjoy the great wines and features in this issue - mYodoeurartewlyionfec,ourse. I feel better now! Cheers! our ports. Peter Simic Australia Export Customer Service Major Sponsors and Supporters 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs HEIDENREICH OUT ON HER OWN it dropped to 81ha and in 2015 it was just 38ha. Fittingly, the last Arneis made at Crittenden Wines from the LONG-time Sevenhill Cellars winemaker Liz Heidenreich has signed off on her 13-year career with the iconic South Australian 2018 vintage has been labelled “Endangered Arneis.” Garry winery in order to pursue her own wine brand. Crittenden has used the wine to raise funds to help save marine life from plastic straws and $20 from each dozen sold will go Liz Heidenreich Wines is now open for business with grenache towards the Australian Seabird Rescue. and shiraz sourced from her family-owned Barossa Valley vineyards. There is also a Watervale riesling included in the So what is the problem with Arneis? “It’s not the taste, Heidenreich wine mix, a style she knows very well after her I suspect,” says founder, Gary Crittenden, “but more a long years working in the Clare Valley at Sevenhill. As yet, no combination of the name. Consumers were intimidated by how winemaker replacement has been named but Jeremy O’Leary has to pronounce it and the fact that unlike other Italian varietals been promoted to assistant winemaker. Sevenhill Cellars, settled there is no proper heritage as a white varietal. by the Jesuit religious order in 1851, was the first winery in the Clare Valley. The production of sacramental wine soon developed “It was largely and still is used as a blend with nebbiolo for into commercial table wines with priests the winemakers. earlier consumption in the Roero region (of Italy), although today Heidenreich was not only the first non-Jesuit to take the role but is far more commonplace in Piemonte as a straight varietal also the first trained winemaker and the first woman. than it once was.” The popular South Australian winemaker finished off an GLOBAL APPEAL eventful 2018 year with her marriage to well-known Clare Valley winemaker David O’Leary, of O’Leary Walker Wines. THE Hunter Valley is set to host the 2019 International Wine Media Conference in October, a first for the group which started BEST LAID PLANS life in 2006 as the more humble Wine Bloggers’ Conference. BEST’S Wines has acquired 400ha of premium land in Great It is being supported by the Wine Communicators of Australia Western, 114 ha of which is already under vine and planted (WCA) which was successful in obtaining a grant from Wine to shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and a small amount of merlot. Australia to help host the event. It is expected that up to 300 international delegates from the US, Europe, Asia, New Currently known as Hyde Park, it is set to be rebadged as Zealand and Australia will attend the conference on October Sugarloaf Creek Vineyard. The purchase is viewed as a massive 10-12. “We plan to appeal to wine bloggers, wine writers and vote of confidence in the Great Western region which has wine influencers not just in North America and Australia but suffered in recent years from the closure and sale by Treasury from all over the world,” said Lynda Schenk, WCA executive Wine Estates of its Seppelt Great Western winery. officer. “This event could be the very best opportunity for this community to make worldwide contacts and spread their Best’s director Ben Thomson made the announcement in wine knowledge beyond their current demographic audience, December, indicating that the vineyard was needed to help thereby enriching and educating wine enthusiasts and lovers supply Best’s top-selling Bin No. 1 Great Western Shiraz and across the globe.” Great Western Cabernet Sauvignon. “Great Western has always been the home of Best’s,” he said, “and this vineyard acquisition helps to guarantee the supply of wine from our region for future generations.” The acquisition is viewed as the company’s most significant purchase in its history. ARNEIS FADES AWAY DOES arneis, the northern Italian grape variety which appeared to have effortlessly settled in Australia, have a problem? Crittenden Wines, on the Mornington Peninsula, a pioneer of alternative grape varieties in Australia and an early adopter of Italian grapes, in particular, has been forced to graft arneis over to chardonnay, citing a lack of interest from wine drinkers. Twenty-one years after first planting it, arneis is no longer viable for the producer. If industry statistics are anything to go by, arneis is in trouble. In 2010, 159ha of arneis was grown across Australia. By 2012 12 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

briefs DOWIE DOOLE EXPANSION LIQUOR SEES OFF DOPE THREAT McLAREN Vale wine producer Dowie Doole is undergoing a major THE legalisation of marijuana in American states has not damaged expansion following the purchase of Possums Wines at Blewitt liquor sales, a new survey shows. Springs, comprising a 500-tonne winery and 34.6ha vineyard. Observers expected that the marijuana legalisation trend in the US Possums Wines, owned and managed by Dr John Possingham would impact liquor sales, but that hasn’t been the case in the three and Carol Summers since 1984, had been on the market since states where dope smoking has been legal the longest. 2016. Dr Possingham headed the CSIRO’s program of horticulture research for 30 years. Overall industry trends remained consistent, according to the Distilled Spirits Council, which did the study. Spirits sales went up in Possums Vineyard is located on Adams Rd, Blewitt Springs - a the three states - Colorado, Oregon and Washington State - although coveted sub-region of McLaren Vale with approximately 28.6ha wine and beer stayed on their mixed-to-negative course, CNBC under vine planted to shiraz, grenache, cabernet sauvignon and reported. “At this point, we’ve seen no impact on spirit sales from malbec with chardonnay, pinot gris and viognier making up the legalised recreational marijuana,” said Chris Swonger, the DS’s CEO. white varietal plantings. The council analysed per-capita alcohol sales in the three states “Viticulturally the new vineyard is very exciting as it offers a host for the two years prior to marijuana being legalised and up to four of new varieties to play with, and old-vine shiraz and grenache years after using state-level alcohol tax receipts and shipment data. planted in 1955,” said Dowie Doole chief winemaker Chris Thomas. Sales of spirits increased in all three states, from 3.6 per cent in Oregon to 7.6 per cent in Colorado. The sale expands Dowie Doole’s position as growers in McLaren Vale with estate vineyard holdings set to nearly double from 35 Wine sales were up in Colorado and Oregon, but down in to 63.6ha under vine. Possums’ winery is an advanced facility Washington State. Beer sales, which have been losing market with state-of-the-art winery plant and equipment, storage, offices, share to spirits and wine over the last decade, were down in all laboratory and climate-controlled barrel store. three states. Dowie Doole will carry on producing wines under the Possums’ “The trends in alcohol have been fairly consistent regardless of brands. A new cellar door is currently under construction at Dowie whether or not you have legalised recreational marijuana in a state Doole’s Tatachilla vineyard, California Rd, McLaren Vale. or not,” said David Ozgo, the council’s chief economist. The study found that overall sales of spirits, wine and beer were roughly flat. Colorado was up 1.7 per cent, while Washington State and Oregon were down 0.2 per cent and 0.5 per cent respectively. Ten US states and Washington DC, have legalised recreational marijuana. Several more are considering legalisation in 2019. wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 13 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E

briefs FRENCH FIGHT BACK Mercurey and Montagny as offering particularly good value. “A lot of Macon wines are also very good, and what we believe is THERE is no doubt that Burgundy, or Bourgogne as the French call it, is home to some of the world’s finest - and most expensive a good bottle of Burgundy wine is an empty bottle. The message - chardonnay and pinot noir. is that you do not have to spend a fortune to find a wine you are pleased to come back to.” But a recent visit from key people from the Bureau Interprofessionel de Vins de Bourgogne was aimed at encouraging Australians to retry Wines from Bourgogne also shine with food. Many are also not Domaine Romanee Conte, Domaine Leroy, Henri Jayer and other perfect to enjoy now. They don’t need to be cellared for years. benchmarks, but instead to sample entry-level and affordable wines. “The consumer has never had so much opportunity to get a good experience without spending a lot of money,” says Devillard. Wines from communes like Mercurey, Givry and Irancy have cleaned up their act in recent years. Instead of typically whiffy Among the sins of the past, sharp tannins have disappeared, along characters, many of the village and Bourgogne rouge and blanc with farmyard aromas, even if unreliable corks remain an issue. “The wines are fresh and clean. winemaking evolution in Bourgogne has been a real revolution,” says Devillard. “Winemakers have travelled a lot, learned a lot; young Headed by Amaury Devillard from Domaines Devillard, which people came back to Bourgogne knowing what they had to do, and owns wineries in Givry and Mercurey and vines across the region, what they do not have to do. There was a real change in that in the the mission also aimed to promote wines made from lesser-known past young people were trained by their parents, for better, or worse. Burgundy varieties, including sauvignon de st bris, bourgogne Now the new generation has a clean, pure and very different vision.” aligote and the gamay/pinot noir blend formerly known as passetoutgrains but now labelled cotes de bourgogne. Also, Visit www.bourgogne-wines.com. cremant de bourgogne, the region’s sparkling wines. SHOWCASING TASSIE’S TASTES Devillard said: “People recognise that Bourgogne wines are very good, but also see them as being very expensive. Our message TASMANIA is fortunate to have some of the best food, wine and today is that there are a lot of hidden gems within the region. beverage experiences in the world, and thanks to a new grants Beautiful wines exist that offer classic expressions of Bourgogne program, Tourism Tasmania will be able to showcase these without the high price tags. There are wines with freshness, internationally. balance, depth and length that are available. The key is in finding these wines and discovering them.” A new marketing campaign has been funded through the International Wine Tourism State Grants program with matched That quest will be aided by the fact that yields were up funding from the Tasmanian Government. substantially in both the 2017 and 2018 vintages. It will enable Tourism Tasmania to collaborate with local wine and “Both years had beautiful quality and style,” said Devillard. “Even tourism businesses, regional tourism organisations, Wine Tasmania though 2018 was a hot summer we were very pleased with the and international travel trade partners on a range of marketing, PR balance of the fruit.” and media activities to promote Tasmania’s wine experiences in premium international markets within North America and Hong Kong. Devillard points to appellations like Pernand-Vergelesses, Marsannay, 14 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

briefs DEVELOPING FUTURE LEADERS SHOWCASING THE SPIRIT WORLD APPLICANTS have until March 15 to apply for the 2019 edition TASMANIA has been undergoing a huge spirits boom over the of Australia’s grape and wine sector leadership development past decade with small producers making whisky, gin, brandy and program - Future Leaders. People with the skills and leadership other spirits with huge success. drive to contribute to the future success of the sector are invited to apply for the program, which has been reshaped to better Now the island state has a new spirits bar in the landmark MACq harness the collective wisdom across Australia’s grape and 01 hotel on Hobart waterfront. wine community. Wine Australia Senior R&D program manager Jo Hargreaves, who is co-ordinating the 2019 program, Evolve Spirits Bar showcases high-end spirits from around the said Future Leaders would guide participants on a personal world in a lounge-style setting. The intimate space is decorated leadership journey and ask them to consider the opportunities by a collection of rare, authentic fossils. and challenges facing the sector. Seating up to 70 guests, the lounge bar highlights Tasmania’s “Through our partnership with Pragmatic Thinking, Future emergence as an international heavyweight in spirit distilling. Leaders 2019 participants we will explore cutting edge leadership skills, hear from world-class speakers and receive “This won’t be a cocktail shaker bar,” says MACq 01 food and state-of-the-art input on topics such as innovation, thought beverage manager Liz Thomas. “Evolve will have an acute focus on fine spirit tastings and built spirit beverages, accompanied by leadership, culture and a small selection of wines and beers,” she said. A behind-the-bar sector impact,” she said. spirit keep will be a unique element; guests can purchase their “We will also be calling own bottle of rare spirits and reserve it exclusively for their visits. on previous alumni and Offerings include one-off bottlings of Glenfiddich and Balvenie long-serving individuals whiskies, Glen Grant single malts from 1950, pre-phylloxera in our sector to be Cognac dating over 100 years, and often-unattainable Tasmanian mentors throughout the releases from Tim Duckett’s Heartwood whisky and Sullivan’s Cove. 2019 program and to provide their wisdom, Evolve is led by 2017 Bartender of the Year Dan Gregory, build greater networks previously from Black Pearl in Melbourne, Swillhouse Group and support an (Shady Pines Saloon, Baxter Inn and Hubert Restaurant), and the exciting future for our Gresham Bar in Brisbane. community.” The spirits bar will be hosting an array of ongoing exclusive Future Leaders - special events such as masterclasses and fine spirit tastings, and funded by Wine Australia will also have private spaces available to rent. Evolve Spirits Bar, and supported by MACq 01, 18 Hunter St, Hobart; www.evolvespiritsbar.com.au. Australian Vignerons and the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia - started in 2006. A 2017 alumnus, Sarah Collingwood, CEO of Four Winds Vineyard, said Future Leaders had made a significant impact both professionally and personally. “We discussed issues such as what personal impediments we each put in the way of making progress, how to develop and maintain great culture in our businesses and how to have tough conversations,” she said. “But most importantly from the Future Leaders course I have made life-long friends who work in all aspects of the sector.” Australia’s grape and wine community members are being encouraged to give their peers a tap on the shoulder. “If you know someone who’s ready to step up and ‘be next’ encourage them to apply,” Hargreaves said. Up to 15 places are being offered in the Future Leaders 2019 intake. Visit www.winefutureleaders.com for information and to submit an application. March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs GIVING BACK CHIC LOCATION MANY wineries throw lavish parties to mark significant milestone, IF you want a hotel that is within walking distance of several but boutique Hunter Valley producer Gundog Estate opted for a restaurant options, then the Olsen Hotel in Melbourne’s South more charitable approach to celebrate its 10th birthday. Yarra, part of the ArtSeries group that is now part of the Peppers/ Mantra collection, is worthy of consideration. Gundog Estate owner Matt Burton has formed a partnership with Newcastle not-for-profit Path 2 Change to help local homeless The Olsen is superbly situated on Chapel St in chic South Yarra, young people create sustainable futures. with tram stops and South Yarra train station on the doorstep. The unique strategic partnership will stretch across several Temptations abound with top restaurants, including France Soir, projects, from work experience programs at Gundog Estate and Da Noi and Dainty Sichuan within strolling distance, although the mentorships for local youth at risk of or experiencing homelessness hotel’s own Spoonbill serves some enticing modern Australian cuisine and a good breakfast. through to joint development of social The Olsen has the welcoming feel of a much smaller boutique enterprise concepts. hotel. It has a spacious lobby and rooms all feature kitchenettes “As owners of a small and well-stocked mini bars. There is also a large glass-bottom business you travel a swimming pool and day spa. challenging personal journey and then Visit www.artserieshotels.com.au/olsen. suddenly you reach a point where you realise SELLING THE HUNTER how privileged you are,” Burton said. “Once you THEY call themselves the Hunter Gathering and they include realise that, it becomes some of the most familiar faces in the Hunter Valley wine industry. a really obvious path to find a way to give With the Hunter struggling to gain gatekeeper attention time in back to the community. the face of “natural” wines and cool-climate offerings, the new To mark 10 years of group aims to remind wine lovers of the charm of Hunter semillon success with Gundog, I and Hunter shiraz, two classic Australian wine styles. wanted to do something more. I wanted to put They also want to let the wine-loving public know that the Hunter a greater emphasis Valley is no two-trick pony, with an impressive range of alternative on our role within the varietals. The intrepid band, led by luminaries, including Andrew local community and Thomas, Andrew Margan and Mike de Iuliis, recently hosted step into a leadership tastings and lunches for somelliers and media in both Melbourne position.” and Sydney. Discussions revolved around “two amazing vintages Burton launched Gundog Estate’s first vintage as a 26-year-old in a row” in 2017 and 2018, as well as what is new and exciting in 2008 and then established a Hunter Valley cellar door in 2011. in the world of Hunter Valley winemaking. The Hunter Gathering Path 2 Change executive manager Jennifer O’Sullivan commended represents eight leading wineries from the region - Brokenwood, Gundog Estate’s decision to look for a partnership that has the Tyrrell’s, Mount Pleasant, Audrey Wilkinson, David Hook, Thomas potential to stop homelessness before it takes hold in a young Wines, De Iuliis Wines and Margan. person’s life. “It is inspiring that Matt and his team are leading the way by “A few of us sitting here decided we were sick of doing trade taking up the challenge of responding to homelessness at a community level by investing in our youth to create life-changing opportunities,” she said. Path 2 Change is a not-for-profit organisation established over 35 years ago. It is committed to reducing and preventing homelessness, and supporting those at risk of or experiencing homelessness to overcome barriers towards a sustainable future. “We’re excited by the way that Path 2 Change is involved at the grassroots level in the local area,” Burton said. “We were looking for a charitable partner where we had an alignment and connection between ourselves, the organisation and those they are helping.” 16 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

briefs shows on our own, so we decided to get together and have some BOOM TIMES fun with like-minded people,” said Margan, who like several other members was previously involved in the Hunter Next Gen group. THE Melbourne hotel market is becoming ultra-competitive with The Hunter Gatherers are a pretty blokey bunch. Look out for dozens of new properties due to throw open their doors over the these funsters and follow them on Facebook. next 12 months. DE BORTOLI EXPANDS INTO RUTHERGLEN One of the early 2019 debutants will be Shadow Play by Peppers - located in the city’s vibrant Southbank arts and entertainment FAMILY-owned-and-operated De Bortoli Wines has snapped up district, a favourite with wine and food lovers. a key regional asset in buying Rutherglen Estates in North-East Victoria. Offering a first glimpse of what future guests can expect when the new hotel opens in April, the prototype room features “bold” designs. De Bortoli Wines was established in the Riverina in New South Designed by Melbourne Wales in 1928 and is currently managed by the third generation architects Elenberg Fraser of the family. The winery’s production headquarters and packing and with interior design by facilities is in the Riverina, where one of Australia’s most iconic and Melbourne design firm Hecker famous wines, Noble One, is the premier brand. Guthrie, the hotel features what is described as “avant De Bortoli also has facilities in the Yarra Valley, with a focus on garde design”- a palette of cool-climate wines, and in the Hunter Valley. contrasts - light and dark, formal and informal, and The Rutherglen vineyard purchase complements the family’s seductive dark statement existing premium Victorian vineyard holdings in the Yarra Valley, King pieces contrasting with white Valley and Heathcote wine regions. Rutherglen Estates, previously stone and timber. owned by Chinese investors, also provides De Bortoli Wines with a third wine-making facility in addition to the Riverina and Yarra Valley AccorHotels Chief Operating sites. Based on growing customer interest and strong sales forecasts, Officer Pacific, Simon McGrath, the De Bortoli family is confident that premium quality Victorian red said the prototype Shadow Play wine with density, freshness and interest “will increasingly be in high by Peppers room demonstrates demand both domestically and internationally”. the Peppers brand’s commitment to quality. “We’re Heathcote and the North-Eastern regions of Victoria are ideally excited visitors to Southbank suited to these styles of wine, so the family has continued expanding will soon be able to experience the business into these areas with both the purchase of established Peppers’ unique style and vines as well as the planting of new vineyards. The Rutherglen acclaimed hospitality,” he purchase brings the De Bortoli family’s Victorian vineyard holdings said. “Southbank is in need to 820ha, 700ha bearing fruit and 120ha in development. The family of a sophisticated luxury estimates the De Bortoli family’s Victorian vineyards will produce in hotel product to cater to an excess of seven million bottles of premium Victorian wine by 2025. increasingly selective global March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefs market that is looking for quality, location and facilities of a world- class calibre.This opening also represents a strong indication of our continued focus on the introduction of the luxury Peppers brand to key CBD markets.” Construction and fit out of Shadow Play by Peppers’ remaining guest rooms, restaurant and bar, leisure facilities and common areas is on track to be completed by April. The hotel says its Edwin Wine Bar & Cellar will be positioned to be one of Melbourne’s finest food and wine experiences. The property will also feature a heated pool, gymnasium, sauna and steam room, and an enclosed garden space on the 46th floor, complete with a freestanding fireplace, two private dining rooms, guest lounge and library with an adjoining patio, and bay views. Shadow Play by Peppers is Peppers’ second hotel in Melbourne (following Peppers Docklands, which opened in 2016). A pre-opening special of $219 per night is available in a one-bedroom apartment, including breakfast for two and wifi. To book visit www.peppers.com. au or phone1300 737 444. NEW GROUP IN THE HOUSE The change comes after 30 years, with well-known local chef Ros Baldwin joining the team. The menu in the former Epicure FAREWELL to the Small Winemakers’ Centre, hello to Wine House Cafe space features share plates of dishes like slow-cooked Hunter Valley. There has been a rebranding, refurbishing and lamb shoulder with pomegranate seeds, coriander, barley and renaming, as well as the arrival of an all-day lounge with an all-day hummus and goat cheese croquettes with braised pepperonata share plate menu to match the wines of producers, including the and herbed creme fraiche. There is also a range of deli platters Little Wine Company, Silkman Wines, Thomas Wines, David Hook and a selection of desserts. and Hart and Hunter. The tasting bar and wine lounge offer an ever-changing selection Several of the wineries involved have their own cellar doors, but of more than 40 wines by the taste or by the glass, from the Hunter the Wine House is designed for visitors who want to taste several Valley and beyond. A series of structured wine experiences with different styles in the one spot. various themes will be presented with culinary pairings, with Oenomatic machines allowing visitors to compare Australian varieties alongside international wines for a global wine experience. Suzanne Little, winemaker of the Little Wine Company and director of Wine House Hunter Valley, says: “Whether people are here to simply enjoy wine and time with good friends or they are on a quest to further their wine knowledge, we believe that their tasting experience is as important as the wine itself. Keeping this in mind we have designed the Wine House to ensure it is welcoming, informative and relaxing. We are excited to be building on what this boutique collective has been offering for the past 30 years. The ethos here is that wines have to be made by their owners - people who are on site here in the Hunter.” An ideal one-stop shop for anyone lacking enough time to explore. The Wine House Hunter Valley, 426 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin; www.winehousehuntervalley. com.au, or phone (02) 4998 7668. Open seven days a week 11am- 5pm, and until 7pm Fridays and Saturdays. 18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

briefs RIVERLAND DEVELOPMENT PUSH POWER PLAY THE Riverland is responsible for more than a quarter of Australia’s PERNOD Ricard Winemakers, the company behind labels annual wine grape production. It is also a globally significant such as Jacob’s Creek and St Hugo, has committed to producer of citrus, stone fruits and almonds. The Riverland has, sourcing 100 per cent renewable electricity in Australia by up until now, tended to be all about business, with wine volume not mid-2019, supporting the company’s global sustainability and yet translated into winery and cellar door equivalents. responsibility goals. For example, fellow South Australian wine region the Barossa The announcement came as Pernod Ricard Winemakers Valley has 738 grape growers compared with the Riverland’s 980, celebrated the official “switch on” of 1MW of solar-generated but it is home to 219 wineries and 88 cellar doors compared with electricity at its Barossa Valley Winery at Rowland Flat late just 55 wineries and 12 cellar doors in the Riverland. The South last year, marking the first completed stage of the company's Australian Government has pledged an initial $200,000 to develop 2.8MW solar installation project. a business case and detailed plans for a dedicated wine and food centre in the Riverland to help address the imbalance. When completed in mid-2019, this will be the largest combined winery solar installation in Australia and will supply 20 per cent Primary Industries and Regional Development Minister Tim of the business’ annual electricity usage. Whetstone said community input would help shape the vision for the Wine and Food Centre. Working with AGL Energy, the solar installation is expected to generate around 4000 MWh of renewable electricity in the first “The Riverland is a vital food bowl for South Australia and this is year, which is equivalent to the electricity consumed annually a great opportunity to capitalise on the region’s growing reputation in approximately 800 South Australian homes. for producing premium beverages and food,” he said. “Being able to showcase the region’s strengths in a dedicated centre would To reach 100 per cent renewable electricity, Pernod Ricard be a big drawcard for tourists to the region and provide greater Winemakers has signed a landmark 10-year Virtual Generation economic support.” Agreement (VGA) with wholesale electricity retailer Flow Power to connect the business with renewable electricity sources. The The Riverland is about 240km north-east of Adelaide and includes business will be the first in South Australia that is connected the River Murray towns of Berri, Renmark, Loxton, Barmera and to both off-site wind and Waikerie. It is yet to be decided in which town the wine centre would solar farms. be located or if it would be in a purpose-built or refurbished facility. This means the The discussion paper says potential functions of the centre remaining 80 per cent include providing an outlet for local wineries that do not have a of the business’ annual cellar door, giving visitors an opportunity to experience a “taste of electricity requirement the Riverland” and showcasing the region’s premium wine, food, will be met by solar beer, spirits and cider. It also says the centre should provide non- and wind for the next exclusive access and be commercially sustainable in the absence 10 years though Flow of ongoing government support. Power. The commitment to its own solar project combined with the VGA will allow Pernod “The discussion paper is quite broad as it is important the Ricard Winemakers Australia to achieve its ambition to source community provides extensive feedback which will ultimately 100 per cent renewable electricity ahead of its original plans. drive the concept of the centre,” said Whetstone, who is also the Member for the Riverland seat of Chaffey. “The Riverland Helen Strachan, Pernod Ricard Winemakers’ Legal and has some wonderful success stories in the food and beverage Corporate Affairs director, said the agreement demonstrated industries and I envisage this centre will provide an opportunity to a commitment to sustainability and responsibility. celebrate not only these stories, but the region as a whole. This is an opportunity to continue to drive market growth and consumer “We are doing everything within our means to draw upon awareness by enhancing the profile and reputation of the Riverland renewable energy, both in terms of our own renewable electricity I encourage all interested stakeholders, including wine, food and sources at our winery and our commitment to supporting the tourism businesses, industry associations, local government and renewable energy industry,” she said. “We are excited to be community representatives and interested members of the public leaders in defining the future of sustainable business in a rapidly to get involved and provide feedback.” changing environment.” March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 19

briefs PIKES SETS A NEW STANDARD WRIGHTS IN CHARGE LEADING Clare Valley winery Pikes has opened a new state-of- HUNTER Valley restaurant stalwarts Andrew and Janet Wright are the-art art tasting room and sophisticated new restaurant - Slate. the duo behind the two dining offerings - the Wood Restaurant and The restaurant and tasting room operate side-by-side in a dramatic Cru Bar + Pantry - at the new Brokenwood cellar door complex new building which blends contemporary design with the traditional in the Hunter Valley which opened late last year. materials and colours of the historic family-owned estate. The family chose the name Slate for the new high-end eatery as Pikes The $8 million development centres around a new tasting facility Polish Hill River Estate and the entire Polish Hill River Valley sit that includes tasting bars known as “pods,” an expansive outdoor on an ancient bed of slate which was laid down more than 500 terrace, two private tasting rooms, two private dining rooms and million years ago in the Neoproterozoic era. It is a critical element a wine museum. The Wrights have been residents of the Hunter that gives Polish Hill River wines, particularly riesling, their unique Valley since 1997 and have run the Cellar Restaurant at Hunter characteristics and identity. Max Stephenson has been named as Valley Gardens for the past 18 years. With a long-standing head chef and joins Pikes from the Source at MONA, in Tasmania, relationship with managing director/winemaker Iain Riggs and where he was executive sous chef for five years. the Brokenwood team, they will run both the fine dining and casual eateries. The restaurant offers a contemporary modern Australian menu that draws influences from various Mediterranean cuisines and will The Wood Restaurant offers contemporary Australian dishes, focus on both locally and ethically grown produce to supplement many of which will be cooked in the restaurant’s wood-fired oven. vegetables from the kitchen garden. A dedicated art space within With seating for 90 guests both inside and outside, the Wood Slate will feature local Mintaro artist Jen McDonald, while diners will Restaurant serves lunch daily and dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings, and uses local Australian produce wherever possible. enjoy views of the vineyards of the Polish Hill River Estate. There is an A market-style display of the freshest seafood delivered from al fresco dining area for warmer the Sydney Fish Market is an eye-catching feature, while the months, while the cellar is an menu is designed to pair with Brokenwood’s flagship wines, the intimate private dining space and Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz and ILR Reserve Semillon. houses museum wine. The new facility connects with the existing Adjacent to the Wood Restaurant is Cru Bar + Pantry, a casual Pike Beer Company brewery eatery that serves a selection of shared plates, cheese and and includes a new beer garden that will offer a casual lunch option available seven days per week. Pikes Wines tasting room is now open and trading seven days from 10am-4pm. Pikes Beer Co. Beer Garden will be open seven days from Saturday, 11am-3.30pm and Slate is open Friday-Monday, noon-3pm. Visit www.pikeswines.com.au. 20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

charcuterie, wood-fired pizza made to order, coffee, home-made END OF AN ERA pies, toasties, sweets and picnic packs to enjoy on the lawn or take away. Cru Bar + Pantry is open for breakfast, lunch and RIDING my bike along Great Northern Highway in Western Australia’s snacks daily. Swan Valley as a youngster, the famous Houghton vineyard would come into view, embracing me on the journey. There is no way then “We have an amazing relationship with Iain and the Brokenwood I could have imagined that one day the unthinkable would happen team,” says Andy Wright. “The cellar has been our home for the and Houghton’s prestigious historic Swan position as the State’s last 18 years, but we’re ready for a new and exciting adventure oldest and greatest wine producer would be no more - at least in and couldn’t think of a better place to do that than at Brokenwood.” that area. For sale plans are afoot, its winery and cellar door to be closed, based on an internal review of Houghton’s operations by Designed by Sydney-based architecture and design company parent company Accolade Wines. The main production is to be Villa + Villa, the new cellar door is one of the largest in the Hunter moved to the newer Nannup winery in the State’s south west, though Valley wine region, covering 1400 sq m and able to accommodate bottling of wines to be sold in the eastern states will be maintained in more than 250,000 visitors annually. It replaces the original cellar South Australia. The old cellars - centre of so much industry colour door built in 1975 by the winery’s founders. The facility also such as the capture of notorious bushranger Moondyne Joe (John includes a museum that overlooks the working barrel hall and Bolitho Johns) when making a night raid to steal wine only to end up KB’s Lookout, a unique space above the tasting room named in in the arms of police invited in for a drink - have boosted Houghton’s honour of the late Keith Barry (KB) who was the winery’s vineyard great popularity as a tourist attraction and quality winemaker. Just manager for 23 years. Visit www.brokenwood.com.au. 22km north of Perth on the banks of the Swan River, Houghton has been the centre of viticulture and winemaking for most of its long life. The mainly virgin bush property which had only some 2ha cleared when it was purchased by the Colonial Surgeon Dr John Ferguson in 1859 for 350 pounds was managed by his son Charles William. Other prominent families in its long history since settlement include the Hardys and Manns, the latter being responsible for the famous Houghton white burgundy. The winery’s first vintage made just 25 gallons. The 2019 vintage at the Swan winery which began in late January expected a crush of about 2700 tonnes, while Nannup, located closer to the main sources of Houghton’s grapes in Frankland River and Margaret River, was predicted to handle about 4500 tonnes. After vintage, it is likely that most winery staff responsible for producing scores of WA’s finest wines will be made redundant. Accolade Wines is a global wine company with a host of Australian brands. Last November it confirmed that “it is reviewing its operational footprint in WA” but that the “review does not impact any of the company’s local brands.” The review was said to be part of an Australia-wide look at Accolade’s winemaking and production facilities. The West Australian newspaper reported it was understood that declining demand for some WA brands had resulted in both facilities in the Swan and at Nannup running at about half capacity. - MIKE ZEKULICH March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 21

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW THE AUSTRALIAN CELLAR LAUNCHES Road site. An entirely new restaurant will be built beneath the existing premises, which will allow for expansion of the current tasting area, ESCHEWING the usual trans-Tasman rivalry, founder of the specialist and a new carpark will also be built. Mt Difficulty’s first vintage was in UK retailer The New Zealand Cellar Melanie Brown, has launched 1998 and it opened its present cellar door facility in 2003, expanding The Australian Cellar. Brown, who is also wine buyer at Peter in 2012 and then again in 2014. This development will form part of Gordan’s The Providores restaurant in Marylebone, established the the FFW’s wider brand enhancements, with it also building a new New Zealand Cellar in 2014, initially as an online wine shop then destination cellar door and restaurant in Martinborough, where quickly expanding into a wine bar and shop at Pop Brixton. The visitors can experience the Te Kairanga, Martinborough Vineyard personable and energetic Brown runs numerous tastings and events and Lighthouse Gin brands. throughout the year, with a solid reputation for providing a diverse and interesting array of New Zealand wines. Her comprehensive ALL ABOARD THE WINE STATION range gives a home for many smaller labels that would otherwise struggle for representation in the ultra-competitive UK market. WITH wine tourism booming, four clever entrepreneurs from Marlborough have hit upon a unique idea that has breathed life into The new venture The Australian Cellar, run independently from The the historic Blenheim Railway Station as well as providing visitors New Zealand Cellar, is currently online-only, focusing on “bringing a one-stop-shop to sample the best the region’s wines have to a new energy and perception to Australian wines in the UK”. It too offer. Husband-and-wife teams Paul Jackson and Kirsty Parry, and will include popup tastings and events, with the likes of Australian Michael and Angela Wentworth have renamed the 1906 building wine writer Mike Bennie, and Pinot Palooza’s Dan Sims, joining The Wine Station, and offer 80 Marlborough wines for tasting from Brown in Brixton. Brown comments that “Australia is the second a specialized Italian ‘Wine Emotion’ system that allows customers largest supplier to the UK by consumption, in large part due to the to choose a taste, half or full glass of as many wines as they fancy. high volumes sold in supermarkets, yet the strength, diversity and Despite 80% of the region’s wine being Sauvignon Blanc, just passion of the country’s winemakers is severely underrepresented…I 24 of the 80 on offer are that, the rest being a mix of everything want to introduce the UK to that pureness, quality and energy that from Syrah, to Chenin Blanc to Cabernet Franc. Food platters are is unfolding in Australia.” available and many visitors will no doubt take advantage of the historic heritage steam train, The Marlborough Flyer, which will run NEW WINEMAKER FOR CRAGGY RANGE from Picton to The Wine Station throughout summer. HAWKE’S Bay winery Craggy Range has undergone a changing of NORTH CANTERBURY WINE REGION the guard with Chief Winemaker Matt Stafford departing to pursue EMERGES “interests and opportunities in the broader primary sector.” Stafford took the helm in early 2012, having previously held various other THE recent merger of Wines of Canterbury with Waipara Valley Wine roles with Craggy, and is widely liked and respected throughout the Growers to form the North Canterbury Wine Region (NCWR) has industry; his departure from the wider industry is a loss for all. Craggy’s seen more than 60 Canterbury vineyards unite under one banner, wines will remain in safe hands with the appointment of Australian working in \"coopetition\" to promote the region, their wines and Julian Grounds, formerly Chief Winemaker at McHenry Hohnen, regional lifestyle. Spanning from just south of Kaikoura to just south of Margaret River. The talented, gregarious Grounds, Dux of the 2017 Christchurch, the NCWR harvested 11,000 tonnes from 1500 hectares Len Evans Tutorial, has worked harvests in Oregon, Burgundy, Yarra in 2018, predominantly aromatic whites and pinot noir, including from Valley and Central Otago, where 10 years ago he met his wife, Sara. vineyards planted on the uncommon (for NZ) limestone soils. The North Canterbury Wine & Food Festival, which previously carried the Grounds joins Craggy Range at a time of expansion for the company, Waipara moniker, will be held at Glenmark Domain on March 10, 2019. with the Peabody Family acquiring new vineyards to meet increasing demand. “The potential of the New Zealand wine industry is unrivalled WITHER HILLS CELEBRATES 25 YEARS in the world at the moment,” says Grounds. “Add to this Craggy’s international reputation, absolute focus on quality and an aspiration MARLBOROUGH winery Wither Hills turns 25 this year, growing from a to sit alongside the great wines of the world, makes it a really exciting few hundred cases in 1994 to a global brand that has won innumerable opportunity. I am really very humbled by the opportunity and look awards, hosted royalty (The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in forward to making a positive contribution to what is already an iconic 2014) and been recognized as one of the Top 50 most respected New Zealand brand.” wine brands in the world. To mark the milestone, they are giving away 50 double passes to lucky wine drinkers to fly to Marlborough and RESTAURANT UPGRADE FOR MOUNT attend a unique event at Wither Hills, where in the recently refurbished DIFFICULTY cellar door and restaurant they will taste sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and chardonnay from across the past 25 vintages, paired with local EXCITING times are ahead for Central Otago winery Mt Difficulty. produce such as woodfired crayfish and venison. Marketing Manager Not only has the Overseas Investment Office finally approved its Dave Campbell says “We’ll be lifting the lid on a large chunk of our purchase by Foley Family Wines (FFW), the Bannockburn producer cellar for the first time. Marlborough is a special place, but we realise is also undertaking a multi-million-dollar expansion of its cellar door not everyone has the opportunity to visit us.” and restaurant complex. The ambitious plan will see an 80-seat restaurant and enhanced cellar door developed at its hillside Felton 22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

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europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW BIG THREE REVEL IN A BUMPER HARVEST AFTER the difficult, small, 2017 vintage France volumes, at about 46mhl, are up are varied, patchily reduced by the mildew across much of Europe, that saw damaging some 27 per cent on 2017, which also and hail damage. frost, hail, heatwave and drought in various puts them back into line with the longer locations, 2018, in general, was something term averages. The growing season was In Bordeaux, the wet spring was combined of a relief. Yes, there were regional much less scathed than in 2017, though with warmth, which increased the threat significant weather-related challenges, but a broad north-south divide arose in 2018. from mildew. There were localised hail overall, production volumes have mainly Northern France (Loire valley, Champagne, storms in May, in the Medoc, Bourg and recovered. Given that the top three wine- Alsace plus Burgundy) fared better than Blaye, and in July, around Sauternes, producing countries - Italy, France, Spain southern France, notably in the mildew Haut-Medoc and Bourg (again). Overall, - all harvested crops in line with or better stakes. Bordeaux, south-west France in spite of the spring mildew pressure, the than their respective five-year averages, and the south - Languedoc-Roussillon - long, hot, dry summer has grown some this has helped to make 2018 one of the wines of high potential and quality. It was, highest global productions this millennium Given that the top three however, a really challenging year for - at around 282 million hectolitres (mhl), organic and biodynamic producers. For according to early estimates from the wine-producing countries producers who coped well with the mildew, International Organisation of Vine and and who avoided the summer hailstorms, Wine (OIV), an intergovernmental agency - Italy, France, Spain - 2018 looks to be very good quality. working scientifically and technically on vines, wines, wine-based drinks, table all harvested crops in A long way (relatively, in Aussie terms, grapes and raisins. There are also - about 700km) north from Bordeaux is generally speaking - good feelings about line with or better than Champagne, which had a bumper and quality, too. early, healthy crop, up nearly 40 per cent their respective five- of what is being cited as very high quality. Italy clocks in again as the biggest wine Volumes were so generous that not all producer in the world, picking around year averages, this has grapes were collected as yields exceeded 49mhl, up 14 per cent on 2017. All regions the permitted maximum - grapes were have largely consistent increases in helped to make 2018 picked and left to rot in the vineyard. volume, though quality provides more of a heterogeneous picture, especially in one of the highest Burgundians are also very happy. central and southern parts of the country. Despite an April frost which caused limited global productions this damage, flowering and fruit set took place A wet winter, which was a feature across relatively speedily in warm conditions. much of Europe, helped to restore ground millennium. That long, hot summer was great for water reserves. A dry, hot April (mid spring), ripening and vines’ moisture needs were aided a reliable and large flowering and with late spring (May) and early summer funded from ground water reserves which fruit set. This was followed by a warmer and (June) rainfall and storms, combined with had been restored over the wet winter. wetter than average May and June which warm temperature, created damaging Occasional local storms didn’t dampen brought powdery and downy mildews. mildew. Mid-summer hailstorms in western general enthusiasm. An early, healthy Summer was plentifully warm, but localised Languedoc caused significant damage harvest of good quantity and quality is the hail and rain storms affected areas such as to vineyards in areas such as Limoux general conclusion. Volumes are up 20 per central southern Italy. Northern Italy fared and Corbieres. A long summer heatwave cent on the five-year average. better with favourable early autumn harvest ensued, which saved the day. But both period. Quality in the north is cited as being Bordeaux and Languedoc-Rousillon yields In the north of Burgundy, and after tough variously good, very good and excellent. and small 2016 and 2017 harvests, chablis growers are much happier, “rejoicing” even, according to Louis Moreau, president of 24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

the Chablis commission of the Bourgogne scene-setting, up nearly 20 per cent on wine board. Indeed, the vintage has been the 10-year average. reported as being the best in 20 years. And at the other end of Burgundy, wine North even of Germany, the heatwave trade body Inter Beaujolais stated 2018 is in the UK produced a new record harvest a “legendary vintage, ranking alongside volume. There is also much excitement 2017, 2015 and 2009”. about the quality, with the UK trade body WineGB hailing the 2018 vintage as a The Loire valley had a similar picture of “harvest of the century”. Big volume in plentiful rain during winter and spring, and the UK is still tiny, though, just 135,000 with some early mildew pressure. Then the hectolitres, or 1.5 million cases, smaller than long, hot summer was the hottest since any number of single Aussie wine brands. 2003 - a “famous” heatwave vintage - and this saw off any residual mildew. As in Heading south to the Mediterranean, 2003, acidity levels are lower than typical, number three global producer Spain’s and flavours ripe and intense. Indeed a volumes have also recovered, to 41mhl, up rare caveat for the whole of France’s 2018 26 per cent on 2017, and higher than the harvest seems to be that lower than usual country’s five-year average. Rioja is a case acidity levels may be a defining feature. in point, reflecting the national increase in yield after frost hit the region in 2017. Style A warm, sunny summer in northern here has been reported as being more Europe has meant good things in other classic, with modest alcohol, fresh acidity northern wine regions - Alsace and and aromas. A more detailed picture from Germany were also beneficiaries of other key regions is still emerging. early harvests after weeks of summer warmth. Indeed, before some welcome Portugal and Greece were the only rain showers in August, ripening in some European countries to see production fall instances had become stymied by the below 2017 levels. The dramatic drop of lack of moisture. The vintage in Alsace more than 20 per cent in Portugal has been was early, healthy and generally with lower attributed to the summer heatwave followed acidity levels than on average, due to the by rains during the harvest period, as well long, hot, dry summer. as the spring (May) storms, specifically in the Douro valley. Here, in Pinhao, more The warmest April on record in Germany than double May’s usual volume of rain resulted in early flowering and the long, fell in a single evening. The downpour warm, dry summer has resulted in harvests included hail; in combination significant in the 13 regions being some of the earliest damage was caused to delicate, new- on record, around three weeks in advance season growth. The OIV reported that of the long-term average in both northerly Greece’s production decrease is part of Ahr and southerly Baden. The health a 15-year trend rather than a particular and high quality of the grapes has been weather-event/growing conditions issue. cited across the Qualitatwein spectrum. Added to which, the volume is healthy, too. It has been estimated at 10.7mhl, up more than 40 per cent on 2017, or more March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 25

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY OUR NATIONAL TREASURES DESERVE RECOGNITION RECENTLY I wrote about a project that is vineyard of Arcagna. It was first cultivated their HVD “Old Vines” Chardonnay with a afoot in the Barossa Valley to recognise by a Roman family called Aurinia in the 1st block dating back to 1908. “It was planted sub regions, and it is a healthy sign we are century AD followed by the Benedictine by the Hunter Valley Distillery Company delving into our rich viticultural history to monks in the 11th century. It currently has and obviously used for making spirit,” he recognise the special and distinct patches vines aged between 50 and 120 years old. adds. Tyrrells is itself a national treasure with of dirt in our country. Filippo Rondelli, from Terre Bianche, makes their historic cellar door that is a must-see a lovely wine (Bricco Arcagna) from this destination in the Hunter. It would be remiss Travelling overseas you quickly realise ancient site. Rossese produces elegant light to discuss national wine treasures without that the Europeans have been doing it to medium bodied wines similar to pinot noir, considering the winery sites themselves for centuries and are masters at defining with white pepper and red fruits. Rondelli as attractions. A number of them should and delineating their terroir. They have was instrumental in researching the MGA be National Trust sites, maybe we need a some magical lands. The twists and turns sites in Dolceacqua and is rightly proud of national register for them to be included in and subtle undulations of the contours of his region and its history. the National Heritage list? Here are just a Bourgogne are all mapped, documented few of my favourites. and subdivided down into tiniest of plots. In South Australia’s While on a grand scale whole regions such In South Australia’s Barossa Valley the as the Douro Valley in Portugal, Champagne Barossa Valley the majestic library of back vintage casks that and Bordeaux in France, the Middle Rhine make up the Para Tawny Collection in the in Germany, Tokaj in Hungary, Piedmont and majestic library of Centennial Cellar which can be tasted and Pantelleria off the coast of Italy have all been toured at Seppeltsfield deserves as much recognised as UNESCO world heritage back vintage casks adoration as the Sydney Opera House. sites. Simply put, some sites are better than Where else can you taste single vintage others, and it is the quest to identify them that make up the Para tawny dating back to 1902? Add to this their and record and understand them that has historic site featuring a must-see gravity-fed led to this recognition and the classification Tawny Collection in the winery built in 1888. It contributes to make systems of Europe. the Barossa Valley a top global destination. Centennial Cellar which Henschke’s Hill of Grace is indisputably Italy has lagged behind France in Australia’s most revered and treasured recognising its best sites, but the rise of can be tasted and toured vineyard. Nestled in the rural charm of Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA) the Eden Valley next to its cute Lutheran classifications is rectifying that. In Barolo at Seppeltsfield deserves church, it remains a peaceful place for now we have a staggering 181 sites the old, priceless vines dating from 1860. recorded. True, some people would say this as much adoration as While heading north, the Clare Valley has makes understanding wine more complex the unique and totally unexpected Jesuit- and complicated than it needs to be, but the Sydney Opera House. owned Sevenhill winery and accompanying others relish the diversity. This drilling down mini cathedral. and defining is not going to stop anytime But what about Australia’s treasured sites? soon as I recently discovered on a visit to Compared to Dolceacqua the Hunter Valley Victoria has an abundance of treasures the remote Dolceacqua region in Liguria. is a new viticultural area about to rack up a with the likes of Yeringberg in the Yarra. Here 33 MGAs for rossese vineyards have mere 200 years of viticultural activity. But Established in 1862 it is still in the hands been registered. Four years of research it is competitive on its vine age. “We have of the original family who are caretakers of went into identifying the vineyards with a rich possibly the oldest chardonnay vines in the the original historic winery. In the tiny Great history of viticulture going back to Roman world,” comments Bruce Tyrrell, referring to Western region you have Seppelts and their times. Take for example the 380m-450m famous 1868 “drives,” excavated by out of high east facing 30 per cent sloping hill top work gold miners that extend for 3km. Literally 26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

Uniquely Yorke Peninsula next door you have the hidden gem of Best’s. Cellar Door and Function Centre Here nestled in the Concongella vineyard is Open 7 days 10am-5pm the Nursery Block which Henry Best planted in the 1860s. It is believed to be the most Lizard Park Drive, South Kilkerran extensive pre-phylloxera plantings in the Phone 8834 1258 world, with a staggering 39 separate varieties of which eight are still to be identified. Some [email protected] of the identified ones such as olvette noir, barleystackswines.com grec rose, morocan noir are not on my radar. These make what is probably the most historic field blend in the world. Staying in Victoria we have Tahbilk at Nagambie Lakes. Here is a big day out! With the wetland trail, historic buildings, which once held a whole community, and the underground cellars built in 1862. Then there are the vineyards - shiraz vines dating back to 1860, as well as the largest and oldest plantings of marsanne vines in the world (1927). It is not all about history, either, as d’Arenberg’s Cube in McLaren Vale is a modern contemporary complex worthy of inclusion as is Tasmania’s MONA art complex housing the historic Moorilla Vineyard. Coming full circle back to the Hunter Valley; a research project is in full swing to identify the historic sites in the Hunter. “We have identified 11 blocks of vineyards on their own rootstock, which are all over 100 years old,” says Tyrrell. The project has the aim of establishing the Hunter as a UNESCO world heritage site. But equally important is to actually be able to document the history of these sites. “Nothing was ever written down,” comments Tyrrell, and with his lineage and connections he was the right person to back the project which is being driven by winemaker Andrew Margan. It will be another 12 months before the survey is complete but it will no doubt add to our list of national treasures. March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 27

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING ROOMS WITH A VIEW AND LUXURY TO MATCH THERE’S a lot to be said in favour of blended Japanese minimalism and NYC bolthole. There’s also a Hollywood-style returning to a favourite hotel, especially loft living in the spacious suites, which hit swimming pool that looks like an ice grotto, one that’s located in a city you visit the sweet spot for visiting businesspeople the mini bar is free, the gym is state-of-the- frequently. The staff recognise you, there’s and local and international tourists. art and every suite has a balcony. a home-away-from-home feeling and you Forget normal check-in procedures know where you are going the minute you and printed guides and room service The TWA Hotel at New York’s JFK step outside the main doors because menus. When you make a booking, you airport is one of the most talked-about you’ve scoped the vicinity before. are offered a choice of mattress firmness hotel openings of the year. For starters, and airconditioning preferences. Note the 512-room property is located in But every year sees a new round of new is also made about your favourite uber-architect Eero Saarinen’s futuristic hotel openings and the world’s major tipple - whisky, beer or champagne - for TWA Flight Center built in 1962 and the cities continue to expand their offerings repeat visits. We were asked to take design has truly stood the test of time. to include new and exciting places to Overlooking the airport’s constantly busy stay. I was reminded of this recently when There’s a Hollywood-style runways, there’s six restaurants and I stayed at the Skye Suites Sydney, which eight bars topped by a huge rooftop allowed me to be a tourist in my home swimming pool that looks observation deck with a pool. town and underlined Sydney’s global city status. like an ice grotto, the Then there’s the cocktail lounge. A lovingly restored 1958 Lockheed L-1649A The streetscapes between Barangaroo, mini bar is free, the Constellation Starliner dubbed “Connie,” the Queen Victoria Building and Martin one of only four still in existence. The Place have changed enormously over the gym is state-of-the-art 18,000sqm main lobby is the largest in past few years, and Pitt St Mall is now one the world and you can enjoy breakfast, of the top 10 most expensive shopping and every suite has lunch and dinner for “medium prices” precincts in the world. Tucked away in in the Paris Cafe restaurant under the Kent St, the Skye Suites is a 73-room a balcony. watchful control of multi-Michelin-starred enclave of serviced apartments filling chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. There’s nine floors of the 25-storey Arc building. a photo of three businessmen from never been much of a reason to hang Not so’s you know it from ground level Melbourne completing their iPad sign-in around JFK until now. But a stay or visit at where an ornate 19th century warehouse and receiving instructions about the in- this visionary hotel is like stepping back facade greets your arrival. room digital compendium. in time to the glamour of the dawning of the Jet Age. The era when Frank Sinatra The Crown Group, a 20-year-old Asian Barangaroo, Sydney’s hottest CBD recorded Come Fly with Me, the perennial property development group - not the dining area, is only a few minutes walk anthem of the aviation industry. Packer-owned Crown Resorts - has major away. But if you are too tired or can’t be designs on Sydney. The Skye Suites bothered, there’s a trio of restaurants Still in the Big Apple, affordable hotels Parramatta, the area’s first five-star hotel, downstairs in Skittle Lane, a swish arcade in Manhattan used to mean the sort of opened in late 2017. Skye Suites Sydney that runs between Clarence and Kent fleapits where transients were welcome. is its second property, to be followed by streets, including an on-trend izakaya Not anymore. A new breed of hip a third in Waterloo at the end of the year. properties with prices geared towards penny-pinching Millennials have sprung Japanese architect, Koichi Takada, has 28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

up all over town. Early last year, Freehand swimming pool. Modern Malay cuisine T EWINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTING Hotels opened a reasonably-priced at the ATAS restaurant seals the deal for bolthole in the Flatiron District on the site this 253-room sanctuary in the heart of of the historic George Washington Hotel Kuala Lumpur. opened in the 1920s. Six years ago, the Thief Hotel in Oslo The guest room options cover the opened its doors to a spree of global gamut of bedding options from king headlines, not least because one of its through queen and even bunk beds earliest guests was Justin Bieber. The for the thrifty. Non-guests should also Amerikalinjen, a sister property housed drop by for the rooftop Broken Shaker in the former offices of the Norwegian Bar and its moreish cocktails, including America Line has also captured Curry in a Hurry, a mix of vodka, gin, worldwide attention. Many emigrants red curried honey and pineapple. The to the US booked their passages here, poshest of the three restaurants is Simon but wouldn’t recognise the swish interior and The Whale, a haven of sustainable of the boutique property designed by Japanese Iroko wood, where the tables Andreas Bjercke and Georg Eliassen. are arranged so all the diners can see There’s only 122 guest rooms with a each other. The American contemporary distinctly nautical vibe and the property is menu veers from black bass crudo to a quick walk to both the opera house and upscale spaghetti and oysters. Oslo's main railway station. Skol a beer or two at the Pier 42 bar before heading Fancy a haircut at a barbershop where out to the Norwegian capital’s nightlife clients are also given a glass of single and restaurant central, Youngstorget. malt whisky? That’s one of the lures of The RuMa in Kuala Lumpur. The HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIE Malaysian capital experienced a rash of new hotel openings in 2018, including 95 95 95 Four Seasons, Banyan Tree and W. But the latest addition is a play on the Malay POINTS POINTS POINTS word - rumah - which means “home”. Taking a cue from KL’s tin mining history, the centrepiece of the dramatic design by MQ Studio is a copper-ceilinged grand salon with two spiral staircases which look like a giant drill. Afternoon tea is served in Selangor pewter pots and it’s hard not to drift off to sleep on one of the oval rattan day beds perched next to the black and gold mosaic tile March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 29 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_2F7/A0.4in/2d0d151 2:34 pm

EISENSTONE WINES Our passion is Barossa Shiraz NIGEL HOPKINS are, which means the more intense and Barossa Valley is lauded worldwide.” concentrated are the flavours. This is, in He went on to say, “I love the diversity FOCUS - that is the key word at Eisenstone. part, the reason why most of the world’s best Founder and winemaker, Stephen Cook, wines are made from grapes grown on old of soils and microclimates in the Barossa believes that focus is the foundation stone or ancient vines. region that give definite sub-regionality, of superior quality winemaking. At a time enabling the same variety to be expressed when most Australian wineries are producing He went on to say, “Through close personal in a number ways, across the Barossa, each wine from quite a number of different grape contacts established during twenty plus being quite distinctive.” varieties and different regions, Cook focuses years in the wine industry, I have obtained on making the very best possible wine from access to some of these select small parcels Each and every one of the Eisenstone one single region and one single variety, of what amounts to some of the best Shiraz wines receives maturation time in a that is Barossa and Shiraz. Rather than grapes in the world. Thus, rather than being combination of new and one year old spread his energies across several different limited to one or perhaps even two vineyards American and French barrels. Cook said varieties, he is totally focused on this world to source grapes from, I am able to select “the ideal combination we are striving for renowned combination. grapes from a number of vineyards based is to use fifty percent new French oak, with on their performance during the vintage. the remainder being a mix of one year old Being based in the Barossa Valley, the Whilst maintaining this approach so as to American and French oak, as best suits selection of Shiraz as the grape to focus on source the very best Shiraz grapes possible each individual batch of wine.” was logical as well as practical. The Barossa each vintage, I am also locking in some of is Australia’s best known wine region, and its the more special vineyards, so as to ensure By doing this, the wine is given an mega star is Shiraz (Syrah). Never having continuity of quality.” One such vineyard was additional layer of structure, complexity been affected by phylloxera as France and established in 1864 and will become the and flavour. This oak regime means that in most of Europe was, the Barossa has many focus of a range of single vineyard wines to some of the younger Eisenstone wines, the of the world’s oldest Shiraz vines, some be released soon. oak may be apparent, however, with cellar of which date back to before phylloxera maturation, the oak integrates with the rich, forced Europe to completely re-plant all of Cook said, “I have focused on Shiraz dense fruit flavours to create a silky-smooth, their vineyards. Added to this is the fact that due to the fact that, as a region, the complex and balanced big bodied wine. Shiraz is Australia’s flagship wine variety, Barossa has a world-class grape resource Cook says, “The aim is to produce wines that producing many of the country’s best wines. of old vine planting material and history are designed to be able to be matured for So the combination of these two was the of winemaking. Our aim is to become 15-20 years, whilst still being approachable logical choice for Stephen Cook, ex-banker recognised as specialists of Barossa and quite delicious upon release. and corporate winemaker, to make when Valley Shiraz, the variety for which the establishing his own boutique winery. The existing range of wines will soon be enhanced with the addition of the 2017 The winery name, Eisenstone, is the Marananga Shiraz, to be followed around combination of the German word for iron a year later by the 2018 Stockwell Shiraz. “Eisen” and the English word “stone”. This name was chosen to celebrate the The Eisenstone wine making philosophy ironstone soils in which their Shiraz vines is very straight forward, to produce the grow, thus at the same time celebrating very best possible Shiraz wines from super the English and German heritage and premium quality grapes grown in some of traditions of the Barossa. the best micro-climates within the region which has become the “spiritual home” of Cook says, “with some of the oldest vines the Shiraz grape variety – the Barossa Valley. on the planet, the best of the Barossa Shiraz grapes which have the capacity to produce Cook has been successfully achieving world-class wines, are highly sought after, his lofty “single region, single variety” closely guarded and extremely difficult ambition, with two 5 Star ratings in Australia’s to procure, even in small quantities”. The prestigious Winestate Magazine in 2018 older the vines are, the smaller the grapes and achieving the Top rating in the 2019 Winestate China Yearbook. 30 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

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STORY TIME MIKE ZEKULICH IF YOU'RE planning a trip to Story Bay on Western Australia’s lengthy coastline, I'd rethink your itinerary. This isn't because it wouldn't be a worthy place to visit, merely that it doesn't exist. The enticing fictional moniker was created by winemaker Alana Langworthy and marketer Victoria Barnett for Alana's latest new wine label. The wine has received enormous acclaim as the 2018 Winestate Best Value Buy Trophy winner, since hitting taste buds across the country such that restrictions have been imposed on sales. First released in 2011, the label currently provides for just one wine - a semillon sauvignon blanc blend. The inspiring winemaking success story had its genesis in South Australia where respected WA winemaker Julian Langworthy had gone to broaden his industry experience and knowledge, studying at Adelaide University and working for numerous leading producers. Alana met Julian in Coonawarra when they were both employed at Jamieson’s Run (no longer in existence). Time has seen them settle in Margaret River where Julian was born and bred. Now the couple lives close enough to the sea to hear its booming waves at night. Time has also seen Alana, 35, extending her wine interests to setting up and running a cheese factory at Yallingup. Julian, 39, is now chief winemaker for the powerful Fogarty group of labels - which includes Deep Woods, Evans and Tate, Millbrook, Smithbrook and Lakes Folly (in the Hunter Valley) - but he is adamant that Story Bay, which sells for $7 a bottle, is his wife’s work (in case there is any speculation otherwise, 32 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

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considering Julian's better known profile in the industry). John we are Jens, a prominent WA wine critic, described it as better than pretty whites of almost three times the price he had assessed in 2018. chuffed Such is its quality that the 2017 vintage took out the under $20 and pretty Best Value Wine of the Year category at Winestate’s Wine of excited. it the Year awards. is a wine that is “It proves good wine does not have to be expensive,” said accessible Alana, now more a part-time winemaker with her cheese and to every- family interests, mother to children Harry, 6, and Ava, 4. A panel of expert judges made up of winemakers, wine scientists one. and wine marketers chose the Story Bay wine as Winestate’s under $20 category best from a field of 2500 wines blind tasted over the year. “We always thought this was a great wine, particularly for its price point,”Alana said. “It is not often that you find a Margaret River wine for that price and we thought the quality was exceptional. “We are pretty chuffed and pretty excited. It is a wine that is accessible to everyone.” Sales across the country are backed by the powerful Coles group, including Liquorland, Vintage Cellars and First Choice. “The giant’s group buying power means that a bottle, which normally sells for about $12, could be snapped up for as little as $7,” Alana said. “Its release came at a time when there was a huge influx of New Zealand sauvignon blancs into Australia. There was surplus fruit around in the Margaret River region at that time which did not have a home. So this was seen as an opportunity to claw back some market share.” Alana is the name, face and blender of the wine. Initially the fruit was purchased from a range of vineyards in the area. Now it involves a small group of key bigger growers who can produce effectively at a lower cost. Some 50,000 cases are produced in the blend. A red is under consideration as a Story Bay white partner. Stay tuned! March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 35

THIRST FOR GREAT WINES CONTINUES TO GROW DAN TRAUCKI This riveting information-packed conference kicked off with an Asian overview session by Canberra-educated Singaporean, Hianyang THE wine world’s attention is focused on Hong Kong in early Chan, from Euromonitor International. He explained that Asia was November each year, when the Hong Kong International Wine and becoming much more cosmopolitan, better travelled and much more Spirits Fair (HKIWSF) is held in the massive and very functional food and wine focused. He went on to point out that internet wine sales Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. in Asia had risen from 3 per cent of wine sales in 2012 to 14 per cent in 2017. That is, an increase of 11 per cent of the total sales in just The latest event, sponsored by the Hong Kong Trade five years and indications are that this sector is still growing just as Development Council (HKTDC), attracted over 1000 exhibitors rapidly. He suggested that the industry should focus on the growing from 33 countries. As in previous years the event, in its 11th year, power and interest in wine of millennials who seek instant gratification. was a great success, with 19,000 buyers from 73 different regions Two expressions of this are their acceptance and growing demand and countries attending. These buyers and trade visitors came for wine in a can, and also wine on tap due to it being so much more from all over Asia and some from further afield. environmentally friendly. HKTDC Executive Director, Margaret Fong, introduced the Fair’s This was followed by a session on “The Disruptive Trend in the highlights at the opening ceremony. “Gathering 1075 exhibitors from Asian Wine Landscape - E-commerce,” presented by Sarah Heller 33 countries and regions, the 11th edition of the fair showcases an MW, Asia’s youngest MW, in which she pointed out how disparate extraordinary variety of wines and spirits from around the world. We Asia is in everything from the drinking age (25 in Delhi and other are particularly pleased to welcome new exhibitors and pavilions from parts of India) to e-commerce, where, for example, wine sales New Zealand, Norway, Peru, Sweden and Switzerland,” she said. online are illegal in Korea and Taiwan. While in closing the event, Benjamin Chau, HKTDC Deputy Executive Interestingly, in China, internet wine searches are much more Director, said: “The 11th edition of the Wine & Spirits Fair saw exhibitors prevalent in Tier 3 and 4 cities than in Tier 1 and 2, while there is offering a wider array of wine and spirits for buyers from around the more wine e-commerce in southern China than up north. She went world. This year we saw exhibitors promoting a greater variety of drinks on to say that in China younger female consumers lead the way on than ever before, including spirits such as whiskies, gins and rums the internet accounting for 60 per cent of the trade and searches. from Peru, Mauritius and Finland, as well as sakes and fruit wines They are looking for value and everyday drinking wines, usually from Japan and baijius and yellow wines from the Chinese mainland.” by the case (six-pack), whereas in Japan, it is older men who lead the way in searches, but they are mainly seeking premium wines Right from the start of the HKIWSF it was obvious Asian buyers by the bottle, for special or work occasions. are still thirsty for international wines, with many of the stands crowded with eager buyers. While the majority of the buyers were Cynthia Yang, senior manager of JD.Com, provided that giant from Mainland China the Fair also attracted buyers from Malaysia, of e-commerce’s perspective on the China wine landscape. Taiwan, Japan and most other Asian countries. Since its inception JD.Com has become one of the three largest internet companies in the world. With a policy of “zero counterfeit” One of the key events at the HKIWSF was the Wine Industry Conference - “Driving Growth: The Flourishing Asia Wine Market” and was moderated by Debra Meiburg MW, and presented by a star-studded line-up. 36 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRITS FAIR JD.Com has become the largest alcohol retailer and biggest B2C The HKIWSF was well worth visiting even more so for the seminar wine retailer in China. It imports thousands of brands/labels from as it was informative and thought provoking. 15 countries and recently announced the “JD.Com Global Wine Despite being focused on the wine side of the Fair, it was impossible Region Alliance” aimed at a wine consumption upgrade led by the not to notice the massive spirits presence. Exhibitors this year middle-class with the motto “Bring quality wines from all over the presented whiskies from many different countries, including Scotland, world to the discerning consumers.” Japan, Taiwan, the US, France and the Czech Republic, as well as a There were other interesting presentations at the HKIWSF Wine tasting of “Winning Whiskies of the World”. There was also the ever- Industry Conference covering the “premiumisation” of the China wine present Japanese sake makers, who even had a session comparing market, counterfeits and the flourishing trend of green wine production. wine and sake, premium rums from Mauritius, and Japanese Healthy Overall, the conference gave Liqueur and Beverages (this attendees a brilliant snapshot Asian buyers are still thirsty for stand included alcoholic teas). of where wine currently sits in In addition, there were a number China and in which direction it is of beer stands from around the world. international wines, with many of theheading, with information to put things into perspective for the stands crowded with eager buyers. Australia was well represented with appealing stands from both outsider, as well as re-enforcing the key role that the HKIWSF plays Winestate magazine and the in the region. For example, the fact that in 2006 there were 812 licensed stand organised by HKTDC. Wineries involved in the Winestate wine importers in China, whereas today there are around 10,200. Or the stand were: Wines by Geoff Hardy - McLaren Vale, Oakover - Swan fact that 98 per cent of wine produced in China is red wine, whereas Valley and Margaret River, Organic Hill - Adelaide Hills and McLaren consumers are gradually trending towards more white wine, offering Vale, Monkey Business - Adelaide Hills and Clare Valley, Haselgrove new opportunities for wine exporters. Probably one the most interesting (2017 Winestate Winery of the Year) - McLaren Vale, Rosenthal - Great facts is that since 2015 there has been a growing “rise” or awakening Southern, Schubert Estate - Barossa, Totino Wines - McLaren Vale, in consumers. What that means is that rather than just buying the big, Eisenstone - Barossa and Old Plains/Longhop - Adelaide Plains. well-known brands, more wine drinkers are making wine purchase Simply making great wine is not enough to ensure success in these decisions based on what they like or from online recommendations days of “instant” gratification and mass communications. We need to from their peers. This is the dawn of Chinese wine consumerism which have a strong and concerted presence at premium international wine will over the next few years completely change the wine landscape in events, especially at events in Asia such as the HKIWSF. China, more towards the scenarios the speakers presented, of aware, I can’t wait until the next Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits informed and empowered wine consumers. So that the “same old, Fair to see what new and exciting things are happening in the same old” will no longer cut it. Having a credible, realistic story to tell world of wine. will become almost as important as the wine itself. March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 37

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS UNDER the guiding hand of McLaren Vale whose La Dolce Vita of interest. Herringbone, 72-74 Halifax St, legend Mark Lloyd, Coriole has always been catering company has built a Adelaide. Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday; noted for its impressive range of new varietal tremendous reputation over dinner Wednesday-Saturday; phone (08) wines, along with its better-than-average the years. Longview owners, 8232 3523. cellar door platters. The dining area itself is the Saturno family, are a a treat, a covered courtyard with a pleasant discerning and demanding Al fresco dining smack in the heart of the rustic style, overlooking a cottage garden lot, so the food has to be excellent. city? Not a problem when, as with 2KW, on one side and vineyards on the other, with you’re a majestic eight stories above the views all the way to the coast. The vibe is Cellar door tasting room plates might traffic lights with a rooftop garden and casual and family friendly, but there’s nothing include spaghetti with Goolwa cockles restaurant providing a flexible range of casual about the cooking. and black garlic, or a tagliata of flat iron intimate dining spaces, from communal table steak with parsley and anchovy sauce, and to window seats, shaded outdoor cabanas The arrival last year of head chef Tom rosemary potatoes, topped with shaved and a garden terrace. Tilbury, who has moved his Gather Food parmigiano reggiano. But it’s with the (very and Wine operation from Robe to Coriole, has reasonably) fixed price Sunday lunch, served 2KW has been fortunate in its choice of taken the experience to a new level. His a la in the sprawling barn-style dining room and head chefs, each managing to stamp a carte and tasting menus are totally focussed veranda next door, that Paglia’s kitchen team distinct personality on its menu, and the on local sustainable produce and provide a really show what they can do. Settle in for arrival of Trent Lymn has done so again. comprehensive insight into the flavours of the six courses, starting with an antipasti platter Though originally from Adelaide, his path McLaren Vale region. with wood-grilled vegetables, fiori di latte, has included top-level gastropubs in arancini and cold meats, concluding with London and a cafe in Argentina, and at Dishes such as the barbecued baby a plate of Italian cheeses. In between you 2KW his menu reflects his interest in both octopus topped with a small garden of sea might be served baked gnocchi with a beef native Australian ingredients and the Italian succulents collected by the chef on the and vegetable ragu, chicken involtini with and Spanish flavours typical of Argentina. nearby coastline, or sorrel leaves folded cannellini beans and pancetta, a seasonal Standout dishes include an escabeche of around shredded blue swimmer crab, salad and a dessert - with any luck the ricotta, Port Lincoln sardines topped with garlic and a tartare of finely chopped kangaroo orange and almond cake with rosemary crumb, or a very simply presented burrata mixed with native herbs and served with syrup. Once again the views over the teamed with terrific tomatoes and pickled quandong highlight some of the great flavour surrounding vineyards are gorgeous - and green almond, both of which are eclipsed combinations. Coriole, Chaffeys Rd, McLaren if it’s all too much and the home run seems by a large fillet of Murray cod on a Geraldton Vale. Open for lunch Thursday to Sunday; too difficult, they also provide luxurious wax beurre blanc surrounded by large phone (08) 8323 8305. accommodation. Longview, Pound Rd, clams - a dish for two. 2KW, 2 King William Macclesfield. Restaurant open for lunch St, Adelaide. Open for lunch and dinner Just as family friendly, and especially Friday-Sunday, cellar door dining Thursday- daily; phone (08) 8212 5511. suited to larger groups for special occasions, Monday; phone (08) 8388 9694. Longview Vineyard also has continued to Top: Exterior deck of 2KW. evolve both as a cellar door and restaurant, A new team has taken over the former Left: BBQ octopus, sea succulent and lardo from Coriole. providing a range of choices from tasty Panacea, for many years a Halifax St dining Above: Gnocchi with roast pumpkin from Herringbone. cellar door small plates to the much more favourite, renamed it Herringbone and lifted substantial Della Casa Sunday lunch, a multi- it to new levels under chef Quentin Whittle, course event that will put paid to any further who built a big reputation when he led the winery adventuring you might have planned. team at Stone’s Throw. The food theme is strongly Italian/ Whittle’s no-nonsense, big-flavoured dishes Mediterranean under the experienced draw on a wide range of influences, from guidance of head chef Robert Paglia, the Mediterranean to Asia. There are signs of culinary cross-dressing when Coffin Bay oysters are given real zing with a fiery nam jim, while kingfish sashimi are served with fried cavolo nero, but Whittle’s experience is such that every dish not only looks delicious, but tastes that way, too. Dishes such as his Sicillian-influenced gnocchi with chilli and sultanas, divided by a long wedge of creamy pumpkin, or pan-seared kingfish sitting on carrot and miso sauce with toasted fennel show maximum flavour development without resorting to cheap tricks of excessive salt and butter. The wine list, though small, is full 38 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

RED CHILLI CHINESE RESTAURANT is committed to bringing Adelaide the most authentic and finest Szechwan cuisine, and culture. Their chefs are strictly trained, highly experienced and are directly recruited from the birthplace of the cuisine style. Major seasonings and sauces are selected elaborately, and imported from the Szechwan region in China, and their recipes have successfully incorporated fresh, local produce into traditional Szechwan cuisine. From Szechwan style tea smoked duck, homemade sauced Mapo Tofu, and Chef’s special fish fillet, they have got more than one hundred different dishes on the menu to meet your appetite. If you are a Szechwan cuisine lover, you shall not miss out Red Chilli Chinese Restaurant. CATERING: Restaurant is able to provide flexible catering service either small or large group referring to customers’ preferences. Our friendly staff would be more than happy provide any assistance we could to meet customers’ satisfaction. FUNCTIONS: Red Chilli is available for exclusive function use based on clients’ needs. Dining area is able to accommodate for up to 150 guests in a seated style. PRIVATE ROOM: There are five exquisite and well decorated private dining rooms for personal catering needs. (Prior reservation is needed) OPEN 7 DAYS LUNCH: Mon - Sun 11:30 AM- 2:30 PM DINNER: Sun - Thu 5:30 PM - 9:30 PM Fri - Sat 5:30 PM - 10:00 PM ADDRESS: 86 Grote Street, Adelaide SA 5000 PHONE: 08 8231 9661

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL BRISBANITES not buzzing about Howard marries well with the casual surrounds and Arts Series Hotel, Fantauzzo, inspired Smith Wharves development, a 3.2ha the frothy ale. 5 Boundary St, Brisbane by acclaimed Australian painter Vincent (when complete), riverfront development phone (07) 3188 9090. Fantauzzo. Opening in autumn, the hotel in the CBD over the Christmas were thin will boast 166 suites adorned with original on the ground. Mr Percival’s is a little more upscale, art works and giclee prints throughout, inspired by the beach clubs of Europe complimentary art tours, in-room art channels The mammoth restoration and that founder Adam Flaskas visited while and libraries packed with information about redevelopment of the precinct under the conceiving the project. The octagonal the artist, all with a backdrop of the striking iconic Story Bridge, which has a maritime building sits over the river and sports a reach of the river and the bright lights of history dating back to the 1930s, will see whimsical interior design by Brisbane the city and Story Bridge. There’s also a many of the original buildings retained favourite Anna Spiro. There are raw and rooftop pool deck and several food outlets in the vast entertainment and parkland cured sections to the menu followed by and bars adding more choice to the already development. small dishes like crab stuffed zucchini burgeoning scene. 5 Boundary St, Brisbane; flowers, crispy fried school prawns and phone 1300 114 131. Opening in stages, Felon’s Brewing whipped cod roe on warm baguette. Co was first to open late last year and And as the hotel opens its stylish doors from day one became the go-to venue for There are shared cocktails of elderflower, so Sydney’s favourite Izakaya, Toko, opens millenials who flock there in droves. Ditto apple and saffron or a classic Pimm’s with a Brisbane cousin. The menu will have a Mr Percival’s, which occupies a rotunda in ginger syrup, or patrons can choose from similar vibe to that of the Sydney original, the centre of the development overlooking a an inspired range of summery combinations which has been going strong in Surry Hills wide reach of the river towards the city and as well as a nicely comprised wine list that under the stewardship of owner Matt Yazbek Kangaroo Point cliffs. offers up some great home grown, NZ and since 2007, albeit with a lighter feel and an European drops. 5 Boundary St, Brisbane, emphasis on local seafood. 5 Boundary Lagers, IPAs and cider is all brewed on phone (07) 3188 9090. St, Brisbane. Stay tuned for more exciting site at Felon’s, so named after an errant news - Stanley, a 200+ seat Hong Kong- four “felons” who were blown off course and Next up is Greca, a fourth venue for style Chinese over two floors, the Overwater found themselves shipwrecked on nearby Greek maestro, Sydney-based restaurateur Bar, and ARC, a fish-focused fine diner with Moreton Island. They eventually found their Jonathan Barthelmess (Apollo in Sydney Saint Peter chef Alanna Sapwell at the helm way to the Brisbane River, claiming to be and Tokyo, and Cho Cho San in Sydney) are scheduled to open later. among the first “discoverers” of the snaking who was seduced by the warmth and river that so defines the city. vitality of the city as well as the sheer Top right: View of HSW Precinct. potential of the precinct. So in the space Left: Seafood from Mr Percival's. The menu won’t set any creative high notes of about a month, the city starved of great Below: Interior of Mr Percival's. - think burgers, fish and chips, wood fired Greek dining suddenly has two hot new pizzas and the like but the quality is good and it choices - Greca and Hellenika in the Calile Hotel in Fortitude Valley. Both venues serve a similar menu and both follow the philosophy of simplicity and traditional flavours, always using quality ingredients. The Greca menu begins with dips, breads, olives and pickles, and moves into plates of honey drizzled saganaki, spanakopita, grilled octopus and dolmades. The meats and seafood come charry and fragrant, and the obligatory slow-cooked lamb shoulder falls apart at the touch of a fork alongside slow braised potatoes. All this and a smoky glass of ouzo will have you thinking you’ve died and gone to Paros. 3, 5 Boundary St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3839 1203. Next to open is a boutique, six-storey 40 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN MELBOURNE’S first vegetarian pub, Green dishes may take Koo Wee Rup asparagus Salvatore Pizza by the Metre that opened in Man’s Arms on Carlton’s Lygon St, has only and toss the spears with sugar snap peas, 1959 in Carlton, is now home to Leonardo’s grown in popularity since it opened just over pea curd, olive crumb and croutons. A leek Pizza Palace, a new pizza joint by Nick a year ago. tart is finished with caramelised shallots, Stanton, Guy Bentley, Mark Catsburg and washed rind cheese and petit salad. Jonathan Harper, the team behind casual Naturally, there have been challenges fine diner, Ramblr and Leonard’s House of with an untested concept, but owners Fred The drinks list, recently revamped by Love (a roast chicken joint) both in Prahran. Whitlock and Alison Whyte, continue to Kabboord, has been given depth and grow the Elgin St pub’s community. In the she designed it specifically around the Some of the building’s history has been last two months the husband-and-wife team plant-based menu.The whites move from maintained with 70s-style timber panelling employed chef Matt Binney as menu and structured and lean - chablis example here on the walls, stacked terracotta wine racks kitchen consultant and sommelier Bronwyn - to aromatic such as the gruner veltliner, and behind the bar and terrazzo floors, it gives it Kabboord to update the drinks list, and the the reds are light and fruit driven; the Unico a lived-in, very comfortable vibe. collaboration is giving strength to this Carlton Zelo Truffle Hound highlights this. pub with no meat. Binney and Kabboord There’s a DJ booth where tunes are spun - - who both most recently worked at the now- There’s a changing selection of 12 Australian everything from Johnny Cash to Hall & Oates closed Merricote in Northcote - have been craft beers and ciders on tap and a list of - and cool-clad bartenders and floor staff are instrumental in building on the pub’s food stubbies and tinnies. The cocktail list is built very friendly and happy to pour you a cold and wine culture that focuses on seasonality on Australian spirits, vermouths and liqueurs. beer, and get your snacks organised. and provenance. 418 Lygon St, Carlton; phone (03) 9347 7419. It’s the kind of place you could unintentionally Whitlock and Whyte have 22 years Sebastian is a huge seaside diner in a lose an evening in. Especially if you settle into experience owning pubs - the most recent heritage-listed 1930s bathing pavilion in a cosy leather booth and let the sharp waiters was seven years of owning and operating Williamstown in Melbourne’s west. The beach- take charge of the wines for the table, perhaps the Yarra Valley Grand Hotel and this is their front location is drawing customers in as they Jamsheed Roussane 2018 or a Cottanera first vegetarian venue. “What we’re doing can enjoy lunch or dinner, and can be on the Barbazzale Rosso 2016. At the back of the is risky,” says Whyte, “but if we were going beach for a stroll in no time. Inspired by the dining room, another arched opening frames to do another pub we couldn’t, with any food and culture of San Sebastian, Spain, Leonardo’s chefs plating standout pizzas that conscience, do what we were doing before, it’s owned by Dave Parker, the restaurateur keep it traditional, say the classic pepperoni which was putting steaks and schnitzel on a behind www.broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/ and then throw in a curveball like the Ramblr plate without knowing where it came from.” restaurants/san-telmo, San Telmo, www. Chinese bolognese pizza with white sauce, broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/restaurants/ fior di latte and spring onions (it’s delicious). Whitlock adds, “We’re uncomfortable about palermo, Palermo, www.broadsheet.com. The crostini are also worth a look with toppings where the food industry is going and maybe au/melbourne/restaurants/pastuso, Pastuso, such as fried sardine, whipped bottarga and this is an extreme response but this is where w w w. b r o a d s h e e t . c o m . a u / m e l b o u r n e / burger pickles or tomato, goats curd and we’re up to in our evolution.” windsor/bars/neptune, Neptune and www. fermented pepper. 29 Grattan St, Carlton (no broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/southbank/ phone, no bookings). The menu changes seasonally and is restaurants/asado-bar-and-grill, Asado, and proving to also work for those who are childhood friend Alex Brawn. Top left: Fried Port Arlington Mussels from Sebastian choosing a more “flexitarian” approach to restaurant, photo credit Rhiannon Taylor. their diets with weekly meat-free days. The Parker and Brawn employed designers Below: Exterior of Sebastian restaurant. vegetable is the hero of each plate, given Ewert Leaf and a heritage consultant, and Bottom: Interior of Sebastian restaurant. the same respect and time as animal protein have transformed the Art Deco space into two often receives. The eggplant schnitzel, beautiful dining rooms dressed in blue and for example, takes slices of eggplant that white. There’s an elegant diner in one half, a are marinated, braised and pressed, then more casual bistro in the other, and a long, panko-crumbed, fried and served with potato spacious deck along the water. The menu aioli and cabbage slaw. Smaller dishes may includes pintxos such as charred octopus, include stracciatella with red peppers and coal-roasted mushrooms and Cantabrian red grilled chilli dressing, or slow-baked carrots and white anchovies. Small plates include with roasted hazelnuts and chervil. Bigger Cloudy Bay clams, tarragon, bread crumbs and Chistorra, a homemade spiced pork sausage and apple cider reduction, but the wood-fired grill is the star of the menu with dishes like lamb rump with lemon, sumac, coriander and a 1.2kg O’Connors pasture-fed black Angus steak, served with a small pot of chimichurri. 26 Esplanade, Williamstown; phone (03) 9088 8989. The building that was once home to Da March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 41

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING STAYING open and remaining popular for and cherry radish and prawn- a very contemporary aesthetic. There’s two 14 years is the equivalent of a Jurassic stuffed eggplant, and many did. desserts for sweet tooths - kkwabaegi (twisted Age in Sydney’s fast-moving dining scene. sourdough doughnuts) and the ice cream of I enjoyed many lunches, dinners and events There is a stronger Asian the day. You can BYO for a $4 corkage fee or at the original Flying Fish restaurant on emphasis in the mains, including select from the tightly-edited wine or beer lists, Jones Bay Wharf in Pyrmont. Either inside, glazed Rangers Vallet wagyu tri including the malty Kloud beer from Korea. under designer Michael McCann's moody tip, shredded vegetables and light fittings, or outside on the adjacent pickles, “vegetarian eels,” a Sang by Mabasa, 98 Fitzroy St, Surry Hills; terrace with its close-enough-to-touch water creative interpretation of shiitake phone (02) 9331 5175. views. Celebrity chef Peter Kuruvita built up mushrooms, wombok and fish a formidable reputation for standout dishes fragrance, and snapper, miso As foodies discovered on the Chef's Table that displayed his Sri Lankan heritage pumpkin, prawn and macadamia. episode featuring Ivan Orkin, the brash such as mud crab with black pepper But I chose the more European combo of New Yorker who became one of Japan’s top and curry leaves. For longtime fans, this murray cod, peas, jamon cream, asparagus ramen chefs, the noodle soup beloved by the perennial favourite has made the move to and fig leaf oil. The fish was cooked just so Japanese originated in China in the mid-19th the restaurant's new digs - only 600m across - crusty on the outside with a creamy, firm century. Momofuku Ando invented instant the road in the more buzzy environs of The flesh on the interior. ramen, the ancestor of every cup noodle Star casino and entertainment centre. brand in the world, in the 1950s, and the 1980s Just as some people dropped in just for and ’90s saw the working class dish spark a A lot has changed, of course. There's a the cocktails, the dessert menu has built up national frenzy in Japan and a new breed of new executive chef, Peter Robertson, an a following, notably with tourists. A Chinese celebrity ramen chefs, including Orkin. alumni of The Rockpool Group. One of the couple at the next table divided their attention first things that catches your eye are new between the mango, coconut ice and pandan Ramen has become a very Sydney thing, food and drink choices aimed at high rollers cream and the Valrhona chocolate, malted too, and RaRa Ramen in Redfern was a hit who have been lucky at the gaming tables - a barley and miso caramel after enjoying a from day one. Husband and wife owners $995 bottle of Krug champagne and 30g of couple of small plates and finger sandwiches. Katie Shortland and Scott Gault trained black pearl caviar for $440. Filling the former A relaxed feeling pervades the chic space with ramen masters in Japan and specialise location of Stefano Manfredi’s Balla restaurant, even though high-end seafood dining remains in hakata-style noodles - a thinner, straighter designer Paul Kelly has opened up the space, the cash-in-hand of dining at Flying Fish. I noodle birthed in Fukuoka. They were given added a contemporary nautical vibe and might try my luck in the casino on my next a secret recipe for the restaurant’s signature installed hand-blown lights that represent the visit to “reward” myself with Tsar Nicoulai white tonkotsu ramen which is “off” when they are spawning of fish. Even before its soft opening sturgeon caviar at $90 for a 10g spoonful. away. I’d be edgy about letting the word out as in late January, Flying Fish was packed when well. The tonkotsu is a rich melange of smooth we arrived and a wave of nostalgia swept over Flying Fish, The Star, 80 Pyrmont St, broth made from garlic and pork bones, us as we were shown to a table overlooking Pyrmont; www.star.com.au/sydney/flyingfish. topped with a succulent piece of chashu pork, the restaurant’s original home and those seasoned bamboo shoots, ajitsuke tamago breathtaking harbour views. I'm not sure if many of the diners who egg and shredded black fungus. made Mabasa a major dining destination Plenty of smartly-dressed guests had in Balmain for eight years regularly make The meat and eggs used at RaRa are free stopped by for the cocktails, curated by expert the trip to Sang by Mabasa in Surry Hills. range and tap beers include Yulli’s Brews from mixologist Behzed Nvaziri, with a strong It's hard to tell because there are only 22 nearby Alexandria. The 28-seater restaurant focus on locally-sourced ingredients and covers in the latest Korean jewel from chef has a high turnover, even though Australians Australian botanicals. The 200-plus wine list Seung Kee-son and his family. The parents prefer to linger longer not least to enjoy the put together by sommelier Andy Lam features are in the open kitchen and their son and light wood and polished concrete interior and a clutch of champagnes but most bottlings are daughter run front-of-house operations. No pink neon light in the shape of a beer and Australian to go with a menu skewed towards surprises given its compact size that Sang noodles by Melbourne artist Nani Puspasari. Aussie and Kiwi seafood. To demonstrate this by Mabasa defines clean, minimalist decor. Natural wines, Japanese beers and whiskies commitment, we were offered oysters from are perfect beverage choices. Lines can be both the north and south coasts of New South Diners have the choice of a bar counter long, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. Wales and diplomatically decided on a mix. or two communal tables. The menu rests its considerable laurels on modern takes RaRa Ramen, 66b, Regent St, Redfern; Sydney is having a burrata moment, so I on classic Korean dishes from triple-fried phone (02) 9698 9994. opted for the Varella burrata, roast tomato, chicken to bibimbap, described prosaically in fennel and pangrattata - the creamy, fresh English as mixed rice with meat and assorted Top: Seafood platter from Flying Fish restaurant. cheese sparked off the agro-dolce mix of the vegetables. Korea’s national dish - bulgogi - is vegetables. Shellfish has always been a major extra-luscious at Sang - barbecued Scotch drawcard at Flying Fish and the Moreton Bay fillet with seasonal sides. Dumpling fans will bug busiate and mandarin koshu and Spencer home in on kun mandu - tender noodle pillows Gulf split king prawns, wakame butter and packed with meat, veggies or prawns. macadamia reinforce the tradition. Meat lovers could start their meal with glazed pork belly The exceptional dishes for me were the moon-eo sook-hwe - poached octopus, red 42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019 radish, coriander and chilli - and baechu jeok - a traditional cabbage pancake with

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS SPRING normally heralds the start of Hong the streets of the Sri Lankan capital, often and squashy potato bun. Go on your cheat Kong’s hot and steamy season, so why not referred to as “hotals”. The flavour-packed day, as the burgers come with a mountain of check in to Hotal Colombo, a refreshing menu includes everything from fragrant hand-cut fries and are best washed down canteen-style eatery with vibrant splashes curries to meat and seafood platters, and with the creamy milkshakes. If you really of pink and baby blue to lift the spirits (and local snacks such as the masala dosa need to push the boat out, you can also cool you down)? Bringing a breath of fresh (lentil pancakes), all washed down with wade into the hot dog menu, grilled cheese air to Hong Kong’s saturation of Italian, tropical-inspired cocktails. Hotal Colombo, or BLT sandwiches. Five Guys, Shop 1B, Spanish and Japanese restaurants, Hotal 31 Elgin St Central, Hong Kong; phone G/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd, Wan Colombo champions the diversity of Sri +852 2488 8863. Chai, Hong Kong; phone +852 3618 9122. Lankan culinary traditions, with small plates and sharing platters courtesy of Sri Lankan Hong Kong has gone burger mad. With For something a tad more refined, native Gisela Alesbrook. the openings of Shake Shack, Honbo and perhaps, head to the latest restaurant from Electric Avenue and new branches of Beef ZS Hospitality Group, AHA Restaurant Its casual style is inspired by working- & Liberty popping up everywhere, one can’t & Bar, which flirts with European and class, family-run eateries which populate help but fall over a new trendy joint at each Mediterranean cuisine, serving up home- street corner, populated with groups of style dishes inside an eclectic, playful sleek-looking people heartily tucking into dining room in the heart of Central. The burger behemoths. But there might be a welcoming and unstuffy atmosphere is new sheriff in town, in the form of Five Guys furthered by an airy façade and a cool which has finally opened in Wan Chai. central bar in the shape of a pipe organ with vintage stained glass mirrors, and over The fantastically popular American a dozen beehive-shaped pendant lamps chain was founded in Virginia by the five hovering from the ceiling for a quirky touch. Murrell brothers in 1986, and its latest incarnation now occupies a large diner The menu swings between East and West, space, complete with Five Guys’ iconic with comfort fare being the overarching red-and-white checkered design. If you theme in bistro-style dishes such as jumbo really can be bothered and have time to kill, lump crab cake, Mediterranean seafood brave the queues for its signature down- stew and rotisserie French chicken. and-dirty burger - two patties (choose Herbivores are likewise well catered for from hamburger, cheeseburger or bacon with a large meatless selection, from the burger) loaded up with your choice of up portobello mushroom burgers topped with to 15 toppings all stuffed between a warm a secret tofu paté recipe and served with potato gratin; to the earthy and satisfying porcini and black truffle orzo. A semi- buffet set lunch is served from 12–2.30pm, with wallet-friendly prices starting at $HK158 ($A28); bar snacks can be had from 3-6pm daily alongside a range of artisan spirits and rare whiskies. AHA Restaurant & Bar, G/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington St, Central, Hong Kong; phone +852 2881 1811. Top Left: Food from AHA Restaurant & Bar. Bottom Left: Food from Hotal Colombo. Bottom Right: Food from Five Guys. March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 43

wine investment & collecting AUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts November and December auctions. First, to Henschke and the iconic Hill of MW WINES garner enormous interest from our buyers. Grace. A heavily ullaged bottle of 1980 March 20-27 Two of them, Birks Wendouree and sold for double its estimate at $241 and (submissions close March 16) Rockford, continue to go from strength to an ullaged bottle of 1991 attracted plenty April 17-23 strength in our auctions. of interest before selling for $471. The (submissions close April 13) hammer came down at $575 for a 1992, Let’s start with Birks Wendouree. A $540 for a 1993, $644 for the 1994, $552 STERLING WINE number of bottles of the shiraz were for the 1997 and $713 for the 2006. Live on-line auctions run every two offered with the 1998 selling for $184, the weeks, back-to-back, finishing on 2003 reaching $132, the 2006 peaking at While we saw numerous bottles of Wednesday evening. $166 and the 2012, 2013, 2015 and 2016 Penfolds Grange - there were a number selling for $172, $155, $166 and $172 of significant results for other wines in (All dates are subject to change respectively. To Rockford and its Basket the Penfolds stable. Often called “baby without notice). Press Shiraz - a quintessential Barossa Grange”, Bin 389 routinely attracts plenty shiraz, with strong results speaking of buyer interest and the November and MW WINES volumes for its popularity. Over 100 December auctions were no different. A (NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2018 lots were offered over the November good bottle of 1971 sold for $483, the AUCTION REPORT, by ANTHONY and December auctions with the most highly regarded 1998 reached $132, CAPUTI) impressive results being $161 for the 1991, while a magnum from the same vintage MW Wines concluded a very successful $132 for the 1994 and $143 for the 1996 sold for $276. Bottles from the 1999 2018 with two bumper catalogues in and 1999. Further highlights included the vintage sold for $109, which is well above November and December where more 2002, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010 and 2012 their estimate, while the 2004, 2006 and than $1 million worth of wine changed which peaked at $172, $166, $166, $161, 2008 sold for $92. Other significant hands. Clearance rates were steady - $166 and $149 respectively. results for Penfolds wines other than 65 per cent of lots sold in November Grange were $345 for a bottle of 1964 with sales in excess of $470,000. At There were significant results for and $178 for a bottle of 1968 Bin 128; the exceptional December auction, 64 both Henschke and Penfolds in the 1963, 1965 and 1966 St Henri fetched per cent of lots sold with over $660,000 $690, $368 and $391 respectively; while in sales. Overall in 2018, MW Wines a 1990, 1996, 1998, 2008 and 2015 Bin achieved sales in excess of $430,000 per 707 sold for $437, $483, $494, $471 month on average, with clearance rates and $494. at approximately 69 per cent across the year. Our auction buyers were able to We were once again fortunate to offer access wines rarely seen anywhere else a number of pieces of Australian wine in the country and this, in turn, produced history. The 1955 Woodley Treasure Chest outstanding results for our vendors. Series, The Galatea, with significant ullage, had plenty of admirers and sold Aside from Penfolds and Henschke, there for $736, while the baby brother of 1982 are a number of Australian producers that Wynns John Riddoch, the 1982 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon, sold for $253. Finally, a wonderful collection of Seppelt Great Western Sparkling Burgundy attracted enormous interest, with bottles of 1954, 1961, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1967 and 1972 selling for $690, $563, $437, $425, $517 and $276 respectively - all figures above their estimates. There were some outstanding results in the international arena, namely from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Good bottles of 1982 Chateau Margaux achieved $1265, while the 1990 sold for $1150. A slightly ullaged bottle of 1961 Chateau Haut- Brion attracted plenty of interest and a 44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

wine investment & collecting hammer price of $2530, while bottles of As we move into 2019, we expect our rumour of any family connection (yes, my 1982 and 1995 Chateau Latour sold for auctions to continue to offer exceptional family name is Barber). The wine, as the $1782 and $805 respectively. catalogues that will entice and excite estate, was named after the Opera, The our buyers. We look forward to reporting Barber of Seville. There appears no end in sight to on the results of these auctions in the the strong hammer prices achieved next edition of Winestate. If you are Seville Estate started producing in 1976 for wines from Burgundy, especially interested in either buying or selling with from vines first planted in the glorious from Domaine Armand Rousseau. us, contact any of our team on (03) 9419 Yarra Valley in 1972. From an investment The Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de 6990. All prices above include a 15 per perspective, there are many reasons why Beze and Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.- cent buyer premium. Our free monthly these wines will go up in value: among Jacques are heavily sought after and our tastings continue to offer fantastic them, acclaim, proven quality, modest November auction saw some stunning new releases mixed with back vintage price and limited supply. My tip - rush. results. The 2006, 2008, 2009, 2011 offerings and our offering of old and The 2017 Seville Estate Pinot Noir will sell and 2012 Chambertin all sold above rare gems from Burgundy, Barolo and out. Quantities are small and demand is their estimates at $1782, $1667, $2702, Rhone via retail cellar offers continue to understandably huge. So is there bias $1495 and $2127 respectively. The Clos provide wonderful buying opportunities. to my view? Yes, there is, and here’s my de Beze similarly had impressive results. If you would like to receive these offers, confession. Again, it’s another simple The 2004, 2007, 2008, 2011 and 2012 sign up at www.mwines.com.au/shop or and short story. I have always had a soft peaking at $1150, $1265, $1552, $1265 phone (03) 9419 6990. spot for Seville Estate as one of the wine and $1610 respectively. pioneers of the Yarra Valley. I was lucky STERLING WINE AUCTIONS enough to sit with Seville’s winemaker and We were also fortunate to see some (SEVILLE ESTATE – EUREKA AGAIN, by the founder’s (Dr McMahon) grandson, great white burgundy with Domaine LYNTON BARBER) Dylan McMahon - a very switched on, Francois Raveneau and Domaine HERE we go again. Once more, I’m off dynamic young guy. We looked at the Roulot both well represented. Bottles heaping high praise on a single producer current Seville Estate range and I was of Raveneau Montee de Tonnerre from - Seville Estate. gob smacked. As distracted as a kid in 1993, 1997, 2002 and a magnum of a candy shop, I kept coming back to the 2006 performed strongly selling for $345, Recently I got excited by the success Estate Chardonnay and pinot noir. It’s as $201, $356 and $575 respectively. The and ascendancy of Castle Rock Estate simple as that. 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes from in Western Australia’s Great Southern Domaine Roulot sold for $563, the 2011 region. That was my first single winery Don’t agree? Want more info? Give me Meursault Clos des Boucheres reached plug. Seville Estate in the Yarra Valley is a call! To view current Sterling catalogue $460 and $287 was the hammer price for the very well deserved second. lists and find out more information the 2013 Meursault Tesson Clos de mon about Sterling Wine Auctions visit www. Plaisir - again, all above their estimates. Up front, let’s quash the possible sterlingwine.com.au. Specialists in the wines you want. Or the wines you want to sell. MUSEUM WINE SHOP MW WINE AUCTIONS Old, Rare and Fine Wine Sales Australia’s largest independent wine auction house Specialists in rare Australian wines, and Competitive rates, including 0% seller’s purveyors of the world’s most iconic commission on Penfolds Grange. For a producers. Call us on 03 9419 6990 to free appraisal call 03 9419 6990 or email discuss your wine needs or shop online [email protected] now at mwwines.com.au mwwineauctions.com March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 45

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 1993 $90 1991 $850  1994 $120 1992 $270 1995 $110 1993 $240 1996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  1998 $160  1996 $260 1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 Perfectly 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 balanced. 2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 Our bold service offering is built on 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 a full-bodied foundation of vast 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 general commercial experience, yet 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 overlaid with distinctive specialist 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 expertise in a number of key 2011 $110 2002 $500 industries and niche market Rothschild 2003 $600 sectors. 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 It’s a winning combination that 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 allows every client who opens a 1993 $550  1992 Not Released “case” to get exactly what they 1994 $340 need. So whatever your business Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 or legal objectives, don’t hesitate 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 to contact us. 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 At DW Fox Tucker, every 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  client matters. 1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 L14, 100 King William Street 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 Adelaide SA 5000 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 p: +61 8 8124 1811 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 e: [email protected] 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 dwfoxtucker.com.au 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES 2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 COMPENSATION 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190  2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 47 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA SOCIALLY SPEAKING Kazuki’s has been reborn in Carlton, fourth Saturday of each month. A tasting Melbourne, and chef Kazuki Tsuya is splitting facility on-site is in the works, but also look THERE are several new dining options in the his time between the big city and Sakana. out for Big Tree’s VW Bug “Gin Bug” which Central and Western regions with newcomer Sakana’s menu is divided into starters, rice, will appear across the region as a pop-up Social Foundry worth a look. raw, steamed, fried, meat and seafood, with bar and sales vehicle. Big Tree Distillery, each section listing no more than three dishes. 307 Hennerbergs Rd, Newham, Macedon This family-friendly cafe and community Most of the dishes are shareable. Ranges; visit www.bigtreedistillery.com.au. hub in the heart of Kyneton trains and mentors unemployed young people keen to Chef Kazuki has tried to recreate the pickles MAIN STREET ATTRACTION gain hospitality skills. A not-for-profit run by he ate at home as a child. Those at Sakana are volunteers and paid staff, the Social Foundry made with the seasonal vegetables he and A NEW hotspot in Daylesford is The Bar is a welcoming space that serves shakes, his wife grow in their small kitchen garden. @ Hotel Frangos - a modern, spacious cakes, cheese-laden toasties and more in a new dining venue and bar in Daylesford’s revamped car showroom. Coffee beans from “Our menu is a cultural mix, combining main street. local roasters Motobean are brought in from speciality Japanese ingredients and the neighbouring town of Malmsbury, while techniques with beautiful Australian Local artist David Bromley has created the social enterprise's own mineral water produce - as local as we can find,” he said. a beautiful wall mural paying homage to brand can be purchased in glass bottles The name Sakana has two meanings. Most Picasso and Matisse. It’s a place to relax to drink in the cafe or take home. Social commonly it means “fish” but it also means with friends for a drink, coffee or a meal Foundry, 86 Mollison St, Kyneton; visit www. “food to go with sake”. from the a la carte menu. There is also a socialfoundry.org.au. Also in Kyneton is Dr leafy green courtyard with vines, stone walls Abalone, a wine bar that opened last May Choose from main dishes like miso-grilled and iron gates - an ideal location to enjoy a in one of Kyneton’s oldest buildings. The black cod with pickled ginger, or perhaps refreshment or two. The wine list showcases former apothecary serves tapas, cheese and pork belly with master stock and mint salad. some of the wines from the Daylesford and charcuterie, alongside wine, beer and classic There is an impressive wine list with a local Macedon regions and further afield. There cocktails. The vibe is cosy and intimate. The focus, including the limited releases of local are also six beers on tap and a cocktail list. wine list name checks many of the region’s young gun Joshua Cooper, along with a Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner renowned winemakers, including Mount range of sakes. Sakana is at 1 Camp St, until late. Visit www.hotelfrangos.com.au. Towrong Vineyard, Glenwillow Wines and Daylesford; phone (03) 5348 1218 or visit Granite Hills. Social Foundry, 19 High St, www.sakanarestaurant.com.au. UPPING THE ANTE Kyneton; phone (03) 5422 7306 or visit www. drabalone.com.au. GINS WITH BIG FLAVOURS WENTWORTH House is billed as offering “a new level of self-contained accommodation BRANCHING OUT BIG Tree Distillery is the brand of gin-loving in Daylesford”. husband and wife farming team Catherine DAYLESFORD has said farewell to acclaimed Crothers and Gary Jago, who love good gin A stylish renovation of an 1850s miner’s dining destination Kazuki’s but welcomed so much they decided to make their own. cottage, Wentworth House sits on the Sakana, a casual Japanese diner serving banks of Lake Daylesford Reserve, with share plates and sake, in the same space. Big Tree Gin is distilled in the Macedon direct access on to the boardwalk and lake Ranges, with the boutique facility on Jack’s path. There are two deep soak spa baths, Springs Farm at Newham producing a range of farm-crafted, small-batch Australian gins using rainwater from the farm, which also produces grass-fed lamb. Big Tree Distillery’s bottles are designed to be kept long after the gin is gone, with the artwork painted by local Macedon Ranges artist Sarah Gabriel with limited editions of each piece in the series. The range includes Elegant Dry Gin and Claude Navy Strength Gin - and you can sample and buy them at Woodend Farmers Market on the first Saturday of each month, and Lancefield Farmers Market on the 48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

travelbriefs while the garden is rustic. Two rooms of the CHOICE OF TWO Whether visitors choose from a king or original cottage remain, with the flooring queen-sized bedroom (or both) they are recently exposed for the first time after THERE are two restaurants from which to the only guests in a totally private three- many years of preservation. choose at the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld room apartment. The king room costs $220 in the Southern Grampians. The gourmet per night for a couple while the queen This house has been redesigned to property features sweeping views, multi- bedroom is $200 per night. convert it for holiday accommodation award-winning dining and cellar, bars, quality and includes a fully equipped country- accommodation, luxury corporate retreat and Little luxuries include free wifi and style kitchen with a high bar area for wedding facilities for the ultimate destination undercover parking, along with cocktail hour, adjoining a dark and moody wedding or celebration. complimentary continental breakfast dining space. The open plan living room, provisions, quality linens and toiletries with French doors to the large deck, is The hotel’s dining options are the two- all provided. an ideal spot to wind down or watch hatted Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel - serving Netflix. The house consists of two king- five and eight-course degustation menus There are tea and coffee-making sized bedrooms with spa bath ensuites Wednesday to Saturday evenings and for facilities, along with a fridge and a and one queen bedroom with separate lunch on Saturday, and Parker Street Project microwave, and a spa. bathroom and adjoining sitting room. All - a casual diner, open for breakfast, lunch linen, towels, hairdryers and a selection and dinner, seven days. Visitors can choose from a selection of designer toiletries are provided, as are of DVDs and CDs, relax in comfortable electric and woollen blankets, free wifi Hotel accommodation ranges from deluxe hanging chairs on the sunny veranda or and a welcome tasting platter. Weekend Mountain View rooms, standard rooms, take a stroll over the property’s sheep bookings are whole house only, while single apartments and shared houses. The Mount pastures. You are around 35 minutes from rooms are available midweek. Visit www. Sturgeon Station, located just five minutes from both Castlemaine and Bendigo, and just a wentworthhouse.com.au. the hotel, offers alternative accommodation in short drive from Heathcote’s cellar doors. eight fully restored 1840s bluestone cottages, Heathcote Views Bed & Breakfast, Old SHOWCASING LOCAL or the Mount Sturgeon Homestead, a six- Dairy Flat Rd, Heathcote; phone 0417 315 BOTANICALS bedroom colonial homestead with rolling 880 or visit www.heathcoteviews.com. lawns and mountain views. THE Mountain Distilling Company in Mount Opposite page left: Dr Abalone Team. Macedon is inspired by locally foraged Hotel activities include regular guided Opposite page top right: Gin from Big Tree Distillery. botanicals, including new-growth pine tours of the Royal Mail kitchen garden, wine Opposite page bottom right: Hotel Frangos. needles and native mountain pepper cellar visits (including comparative tastings) Top left & right: Interior of Wentworth House. berries found throughout the area. and native animal enclosures. Self-guided Bottom left: Mountain Distilling. private walking tracks are also available. Bottom right: Heathcote views relaxing in style. Established in 2017, Mountain Distilling Free wifi is available throughout the hotel - has released its first gin - excluding the Mount Sturgeon Mountain. Mountain Distilling, Cottages. The Royal Mail the brainchild of brewer Hotel, 98 Parker St, Dunkeld; Michael Harris and Mount phone (03) 5577 2241 or visit To w ro n g v i g n e ro n www.royalmail.com.au. George Cremasco is open Saturdays and ROOMS WITH Sundays 10am-5pm. VIEWS You’ll find it at 4 Taylors Rd, Mount Macedon, LOOKING for some peace in the facility it shares and quiet in one of Victoria’s with Mount Towrong regional wine centres? Wines; phone 0455 Check out Heathcote Views 175 553. bed and breakfast, just a few kilometres from the town centre of Heathcote. March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 49

CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA 86 TASTED 66 AWARDED CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA A wide sweep of micro-climates here generally verging on the Blue Pyrenees Montara Grampians cooler side. It makes for interesting diversity! In this judging the Pyrenees Riesling 2017 HHH stand outs were lovely aged shiraz wines and young riesling and Chardonnay Smells of cut hay marsanne varietals. Cabernets are featured along with some very 2015 HHHHH with underlying interesting alternative varieties, particularly grenache. Crisp nose with fruit fragrances and expressive honeyed soft, slightly sweet, SPARKLING Blue Pyrenees Luna grapefruit characters flavours. $27 Pyrenees Sparkling with subtle aged 7 TASTED NV HHH1/2 notes. Soft and oily in ROSÉ 6 AWARDED Nutty yeasty notes add the mouth with great complexity to the fresh mouthfilling creamy 3 TASTED A strong and consistent citrussy nose with a flavours. Drinking well 2 AWARDED class showing freshness slight sweet but well- now. $22 and vibrancy with balanced palate. $26 balance of dosage and Kimbarra Wines Tahbilk Nagambie A small class of diverse fruit weight. Blue Pyrenees Great Western Lakes Marsanne styles from the bone Vintage Brut Riesling 2018 HHHH1/2 dry to those showing a Blue Pyrenees Pyrenees Sparkling 2018 HHHHH Intense estery touch of sweetness. Pyrenees Sparkling 2014 HHH1/2 An attractive intensity combination of citrus Rosé NV HHHH A rich broad style of lemon curd-like based aromas and tightly Dalfarras Central Intense strawberry and with rounded texture, aromas with floral wound palate that opens Victoria Rosato quince-like juicy fruit excellent balance and nuances and intense up to excellent varietal 2018 HHH1/2 bouquet with a rich showing attractive length of lime-based appeal. Very drinkable. Aromatic strawberries complexity of nutty secondary characters flavours with lively Cellaring potential. and cream nose and fruity flavours and a firm developing. $32 acidity and good use of fresh fruit flavours acid backbone. $32 residual sweetness to 5+ $19.50 with a sweet/sour-like Blue Pyrenees balance. $30 Glenlofty Go Field finish. Very drinkable. Taltarni Pyrenees Pyrenees Sparkling Best's Great Blend Pyrenees $19.50 Blanc de Blancs Shiraz NV HHH Western Riesling White Blend 2015 HHHH Intense inky nose with 2018 HHHHH 2017 HHHH Silver Spoon Still very youthful with fruit cake-like complexity A lovely wine with a An attractive mix of Estate The Quartz intense lifted floral and and a soft seamless very attractive estery tropical, citrus and Heathcote Rosé citrus aromas. Zingy balance of sweet floral nose and excellent apricot fragrances with 2018 HHH1/2 fresh palate with a flavours. $32 persistence of zesty the apricot characters Juby red fruit nose complexity of spicy lime/lemon flavours. dominating the long softly with an attractive citrus/apple flavours. OTHER WHITE This is one that will age textured palate. $24 spicy lift. The nicely BLENDS & gracefully and is one for Four Sisters Central structured savoury 5+ $26 VARIETALS the long term. $25 Victoria Sauvignon palate has a solid core Blanc 2018 HHH of red fruits. $25 Blue Pyrenees 12 TASTED Complex bouquet - very Midnight Cuvee 9 AWARDED varietal. Nicely textured PINOT NOIR Pyrenees Sparkling palate with a lovely Chardonnay Mixed results with balance of tropical fruit 3 TASTED 2015 HHHH rieslings a standout flavours. $16.30 2 AWARDED Fresh, bright and nicely along with marsanne focussed style with and chardonnay. Dalfarras Victoria A couple of good an estery citrus/melon Pinot Grigio examples showing nose and a fresh and 2018 HHH varietal character and lively palate with long Aromas of pears good winemaking. lingering flavours. and quinces with uncomplicated but very Mount Coghill 5+ $36 flavoursome palate. Ballarat Pinot Noir $19.50 2017 HHHH Silver Spoon Estate Lovely varietal aromas of Cambrian White cherries and cranberries Heathcote Viognier with a complexity and 2018 HHH intensity of fruit, tannins Spicy ginger marmalade and acidity on the pure nose and a big warm pinot palate. $25 apricot palate with a grippy finish. $27 50 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019