Winestate Magazine November December 2016

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELIF you know Brisbane then you know the having maintained its edge over the years with mezze which includes the usual dips of“Ekka”. It’s the annual agricultural show by subtly morphing to stay current but still baba ganoush, hummus, beetroot and jajik,complete with fashion shows, livestock in authentic and thoroughly on-brand. borek pastries and vine leaves, there’s athe main arena, the all important wood chop, section for both gozleme’s and pide, saladsshow bags and of course, sideshow alley. The cosy dining room underwent a total which marry with both, and also charry items refurbishment in 2014 and recently an all- from the grill section. Lamb shish, charcoal Over the past couple of years parts of new menu brought subtle Middle Eastern chicken, garlicky prawn skewers and thethe vast space on the outskirts of the city influence to the small but approachable and King’s mixed grill, which features all of thehave been redeveloped and now includes always delicious menu. Johnson’s philosophy above can be paired with less traditional sidesan entertainment centre, a Ridge Hotel is to source the best ingredients available like red cabbage salads, steamed greens andwith restaurant and bar, and King St, and then do as little as possible to them. He sweet potato chips with red pepper mayo.connecting the showgrounds with Fortitude describes his food as honest and real, foodValley and the CBD. that hasn’t been played with or fussed over. Sticky orange and almond syrup cake, Duck breast roasted to pink, with crispy, house-made baklava and chocolate tart with The tree-lined boulevard is fast attracting salty skin is served with poached quince Turkish delight ice cream finish the meal onsome big-name eateries already successful and compressed radicchio with dukkah and a subtly sweet note. 4/274 Hawthorne Road,in other areas opening their second location. caramelised yoghurt is a classic example as Hawthorne. Phone (07) 3902 0726. First to open is the George Bar & Bistro, is Murray cod with garlic and almond sauce,also located in the “Golden Triangle” of pickled mussels and black lime ash. Top left & right: Delicious food from Downtown Istanbul.Eagle St dining in the CBD. Owned by the Above middle: lnterior view of e'cco Bistro.Gregan Group which is headed by former Channelling current trends like pickling and Above bottom: Delicious food from e'cco Bistro.Wallaby George Gregan who also operates fermenting beef is slow cooked and scentedcoffee depot GG Espresso, pouring Allpress with cardamom and served with charredEspresso’s Carmelo blend as well as a leek and fermented cauliflower puree, butcomprehensive range of breakfast and lunch the best comes at the end in the form of aoptions like wraps and sandwiches, muffins deconstructed cheesecake of strawberry,and cookies, is also going in to King St. The rhubarb and rosewater with strawberryFat Dumpling is a super popular dumpling meringue shards and tangy raspberry sorbet.bar in the middle of the busiest part ofFortitude Valley also popping up on the Over the past decade Johnson and hisnewest “Eat Street” in town. Slightly larger partner and co-owner Mary Randles havethan the Valley original, the interior features steadily built up an impressive wine collection300-year-old timber panelled walls, recycled both from Australia and Johnson’s native Newfrom Chinese train tracks and a central Zealand, as well as stellar representation fromhanging feature fashioned from dumpling European and North American producers.rolling pins. The menu will be similar to the Philip Johnson Catering, a completeValley bar, which true to its name features home and corporate catering arm, operatessteamed, poached and pan-fried dumplings, alongside the bistro offering delicious menusshallot pancakes and spicy vegetable salads, for stand-up events, formal corporate affairs,matched with Asian beers and ending with the weddings and major events as well as family-famous peach spring roll served with vanilla style feasting menus, designed for the centrebean ice cream. of the table. 100 Boundary Street Brisbane. Phone (07) 3831 8344. If you know Brisbane you will also knowabout e’cco Bistro, established in 1995 Still with a nod to delicious Middle Easternin a heritage-listed, century-old former tea flavours, this time more specifically Turkey,warehouse on the CBD fringe. Downtown Istanbul opened recently in the leafy inner northern enclave of Hawthorne. Owned and operated by chef and authorPhilip Johnson, the multi-awarded bistro Brick walls house wooden alcoves filled withis one of the state’s most favourite venues, traditionally painted plates, jugs and urns, wooden tables are sparsely adorned and the glassed-in kitchen clad in hand-painted tiles gives the place a contemporary and airy feel – there’s as many alfresco tables as there are inside. Located next to the cinema complex and open every day for lunch and dinner, the menu is large and wide ranging. Beginning November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 51

winewordsALEX BECKETTASPIRING WINEMAKER, WINNER- 2 016 SY D N E Y R OYA L W I N E S C H O L A R S H I PSKYE MURTAGHMORE times than not, you’re introduced to some great old wines during this time, And in the longer term?here to a wine industry figure whose which really opened my eyes. I discovered To be honest, I’d like to continue myinterest in the game stems from a rich that winemaking isn’t just an industry butfamily history of either growing grapes, a form of expression, with each vintage education. At this stage I’m planning toproducing wines - or often both. Alex having unique characteristics. That struck complete the WSET 4 Diploma startingBeckett doesn’t fall into this category. a chord with me and made me want to be next year and hopefully have a go atWhile born and raised in one of Australia’s involved in an industry where you get to the Master of Wine Qualification in asignature wine regions, the Hunter Valley, be challenged to create something unique few years. But I’d also like to get moreBeckett’s parents run their own business every year. involved in the broader industry, within the transport sector and he’s not entirely rural wine shows and other events.sure winemaking was a career they’d Once you nail your final exams inconsidered for him early on. But good November - what’s the immediate plan Apart from the financial assistance, asfortune - and geography - presented him after graduation? the recipient of the 2016 Sydney Royalwith the opportunity to be introduced to Wine Scholarship you secured a ticketsome great old wines after he left school Well, I’ve been offered a contract as the to steward at the KPMG Sydney Royaland went to work locally at Tyrrell’s Wines assistant winemaker under Gwyn Olsen Wine Show in July. What’s stewardingin Pokolbin. It became evident to everyone at Peppertree Wines, which I’m stoked all about and what did you gain frompretty quickly that winemaking was the about. It’s a fantastic opportunity to learn the experience?perfect fit for Beckett’s interests and from a great winemaker and with vineyardstalents. Fast forward to 2016 and he will in the Hunter, Orange, Coonawarra and A steward’s role is to work behind thecomplete his Viticulture and Oenology Wrattonbully, Peppertree has access to scenes (at a wine show) to make suredegree at the University of Adelaide at the some great vineyards across Australia. the event runs smoothly and every wineend of this year - having picked up further is presented to the judges equally - sopractical experience and a few good tips they have the best opportunity to awardalong the way through stints at PeppertreeWines’ cellar door and winery. To sweetenthe pot of any final year, in July Beckett wasnamed the 2016 recipient of the prestigiousSydney Royal Wine Scholarship. A jointinitiative of the Royal Agricultural Societyof NSW Foundation and the KPMG SydneyRoyal Wine Show, the honour rewarded himwith $5000 towards his tertiary studies.Tell us a bit more about what swayedyou into a career in winemaking? When I was at Tyrrell’s, we’d finish upwork on a Sunday and sit out the front as ateam where Richard Earnshaw - the cellardoor manager who’d had been there formore than 35 years at that stage - wouldbring out something old from the Hunterfor us to try. I was lucky to be exposed52 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

the wine on its merits alone. This year doing an awesome job making the styles What do you think will be the biggestwas great. I was placed in a stewarding I’m really interested in is Liz Jackson of “drivers” for you as a winemaker?captain role so learning to liaise with First Creek and Silkman Wines. She’sjudges to co-ordinate each day was without a doubt one of Australia’s best Creating products which speak of placereally fun. I was also lucky enough chardonnay producers. and vintage are the biggest drivers forto move into an associate judge role me. Consistency isn’t very important towhen a judge stepped out, which was Adelaide has seen a surge in the what I like. I’d rather have a different winea fantastic learning experience. number of small bars operating within style each year dependent on vintage the city limits over the last couple of characteristics.You’ve been working at the coal face years - many with interesting wine andof the wine consumer market, at spirit offerings. How do you think the In which areas do you think there’s theAdelaide’s East End Cellars. In your market for good wine among people in most room for continued innovation inexperience, how influential are wine their early 20s has changed over the winemaking?awards ratings in people’s decision- last five years and where do you thinkmaking process? it’s heading? I think the area which holds the most potential for improvement is on-the-go I think wine awards will always have Spending the last four years in wine chemical analysis. There’s currentlya place in influencing key consumer Adelaide, I’ve seen major changes in some work being done to allow constantgroups towards certain products. From the bar scene. When I first came here monitoring of barrels which would be sowhat I’ve observed, they appear to be there were probably less than five helpful in preventing spoilage growth.most influential when applied to wines in places to get decent drinks and nowthe sub-$25 range which, given so much we have countless good quality cocktail What’s your favourite varietal rightof Australian wine falls into this category, and wine bars, with bartenders who now and why?suggests the awards are significant to are on par with Sydney and Melbourne,retail sales. which is great. From what I’ve observed, At the moment I’m really loving my age group’s (21-25) choice of drink Bourgogne Aligote - really steely andWhat are the main industry topics is consistently moving towards the tensile. It’s just a real thirst-quenchingcurrently being debated among you premium drinks market, which is again style of wine, super delicious whenand your peers at university? fantastic. It’s nice to see that product made right. quality is something my generation At the moment the key topics are looks for rather than quantity. I think Do you have a vision of what would besituated around sustainability in all its the Adelaide bar scene will continue your first offering to the wine market?forms - from making the most of total heading towards the Melbourne/Sydneyproduct (recovery and reuse etc), small bar style’s, with a major emphasis Ideally it would be a self-farmed, high-through to vineyard handling for soil and on local and quality ingredients. end chardonnay which has good fruitplant health. A big concern right now is weight, creamy middle palate texture asrising annual temperatures which is a What do you think will be some of well as freshness and an ability to age.major issue for many of us from warmer the challenges you’ll face in theclimate viticultural regions. winemaking world over the next five Is collecting wine something you’re years? interested in yet?What are your thoughts on the currentgender make-up of the Australian A few of the potential challenges for me I love collecting wine. There’s nothingwinemaking scene? probably centre around learning to work more exciting to me than opening a bottle in a winemaking role with responsibility I’ve found on some random auction at Well, considering that currently less for the end product, which I’m really some time - just to see what it looksthan 10 per cent of listed winemakers looking forward to. I’ve always enjoyed like. At the moment the best bottle in my(Winetitles) are female, there’s clearly being challenged to improve my skills. possession is a 1996 Salon Blanc desome room for improvement in this area Blancs, a tremendous wine which I’m- particularly in regard to opportunities Being a Hunter Valley lad we could saving for my 25th birthday.to take on senior management roles. assume that’s the region you’d likeDespite that, we have some great people to base yourself in one day. Is that Finally, graduation could be a goodand groups contributing to advancing the case? excuse to order up a special bottle tothe causes of females within the broader celebrate. What do you hope it’ll be inindustry, like Sam Connew, Sarah Crowe Definitely the Hunter is where I’d like to your case?and Jane Thomson’s Fabulous Ladies end up, however, outside of that, I reallyWine Society. love the wines of Beechworth, Geelong Definitely champagne and most likely and Gippsland domestically, as well as a bottle of vintage Krug or WinstonWho are the winemakers attracting Cornas and Corton-Charlemagne. So, Churchill - although with quality beingyour interest? any opportunity to work in those areas what it is, I’d be happy with just about would be amazing. any 2002 vintage champagne as a In terms of wines which are super graduation drink. interesting I’d say Bryan Martin -winemaker at Ravensworth Wines - isproducing some delicious, juicy andtextural styles. But the winemaker who’s November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 53

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press1997 $80 2005 $651998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $1502001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $1402002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $952003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $1502004 $110 Shiraz2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $2802007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $1602009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/1993 $80 1997 $1901994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $2001995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $6001998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $7001999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,0002002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,0002003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $8502004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,0002005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $4502006 $110 1959 $2,0002007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,6002008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $7054 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $3,2001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $850 1994 $120 1992 $2701995 $110 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1998 $160  1996 $2601999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $4502000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $7002001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $8502002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $4202003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $5202004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $4502005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $8502006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $5602008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $6002009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $7502010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $9002011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 T EWINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTING 1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260Para Liqueur 1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $2101878 $2,200  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $3001879 $2,500  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380 1880 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $3001881 $1,800  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1882 $1,800  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1887 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $2501893 $1,200  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released1899 $1,200  2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released1901 $700  2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $3201930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $1051933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $1251939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $1801944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $7001947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIECuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 95 95 951980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 POINTS POINTS POINTS 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $2201982 $280  1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $8001983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $5601990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $4201992 $240 1994 $5501993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $3601995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $4201996 $370  1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $4201999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $2002003 $190 2003 $2942004 $170 November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 55 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_2F7/A0.4in/2d0d151 2:34 pm

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Wendouree shiraz blends once again (28 JUNE PREMIUM AUCTION cleared above expectation. There were MOSSGREEN-WEBB’S REPORT, by GRAHAM WRIGHT) also a number of prominent wines that November 15 - Fine & Rare Wines By late June we were in the middle of underwent some pretty spirited bidding, Auction (consignments close what my wife calls the “grip” (winter including Penfolds Bin 707, Saltram No October 28) weather) and the auction market decided 1, 1991 Wynns Cabernet, Wendouree December 6 - Fine & Rare Wines to change track. Not at the top end shiraz and blends and Yalumba The Auction (consignments close where Grange, Bin 707 and 1990 Hill of Octavius from the 1990s. All went either November 18) Grace reign supreme, nor the bottom at the top end of the guides or above. end where $20-priced wines keep doing In terms of volume moved, our June LANGTON’S FINE WINE what they always do at auction, quietly buyers were after d’Arenberg Dead Arm AUCTIONS selling. The change occurred in the from the mid-2000s, Burge Meshach With three fine wine catalogues middle ground - in that $30 to $50 group from the 2000s, Barry Armagh from closing per week, Langton’s offer where our bidders are not only cleaning the 1990s, Mount Mary Quintets - also the best fine wine range to choose us out but they’re willing to bid quite from the 2000s, Noon Reserves right from. Visit langtons.com.au for a strongly and looking for cabernet-based up to the 2014 vintage and Rockford comprehensive list of the auction wines alongside the perennial auction Basket Press from the 1990s through event calendar. favourite, shiraz. Let’s start with the mid- to 2010. More stock, please! At the range cabernets. Bowen Estate from the top end of the market, Penfolds had a ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS 1990s, Majella from the ’90s and 2000s, good night with most Grange on offer November 8, closes October 7 Rockford Rifle Range from the 2000s, sold, and high clearances for Bins December 6, closes November 4 1998 Saltram Winemakers Cabernet, 28, 128 and 707, along with St Henri Wendouree cabernet blends across the and Cellar Reserve Grenache. For GRAYSWINE board, Wynns Coonawarra cabernets Henschke, the pleasing inclusion was Daily wine auctions, starting from $9 from the 1980s through the early 2000s that a generous consignment of 1990 per case, with a 30-day money back and so on. All cleared exceedingly well. Hill of Grace cleared well, while most guarantee. Fine wine auctions end As for shiraz, 2010 Best’s Bin 1 Shiraz, of the Mt Edelstone, from the 1980s Monday -Tuesday -Thursday each 2004 Branson Coach House, 2007 through to 1994, also attracted our week. Port and spirit auctions end on Hobbs Shiraz Viognier, 1998 Mt Langi buyer’s attention. Seppelt Paras and Wednesdays. Shiraz, 2010 Lehmann Eight Songs and Hardys’ fortifieds were the highlights in terms of fortified sales, while mid-priced STERLING WINE AUCTIONS burgundy sold well in the imported Auctions run every two weeks, section. To get to the nitty gritty, we back-to-back, finishing on Wednesday need to look at June’s Top 10 lists. In evening. the Top 10 Hammer Prices for Australian Wine - it was all about Grange bar one (all dates subject to change without famed Henschke - a 1990 Hill of Grace notice.) Shiraz (minor cellar nicked back label) which sold for $491. Top price went to a 1990 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange which achieved $ 522. Take the big two out and what a surprise to see the likes of a rare 1972 Seppelt Burgundy, the first for Oddbins of Irvine’s Royal Merlot and a 2009 Mollydooker Velvet Glove getting into our Top 10 Non-Penfolds/ Henschke Hammer Prices list. Heading the table at $225 was a 1990 Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz, with a magnum of 2006 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz (in its original case) in close second fetching $220. The ’72 Seppelt Show Great Western Sparkling Burgundy achieved $300, with the 2005 Irvine Royal Merlot (screw cap) selling for $160 and the Mollydooker (wax capsule, velvet bag) - $140. With the Imported category, it56 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

wine investment & collectingwas all French except one lone Italian. to their normal habits in June, keeping auction once again showcased theIn top position, achieving $451, was a prices well within the guides and while strength of the secondary market in2006 Chateau Haut Brion 1er Cru Graves clearances for fortifieds were about this country. Whether buying or selling,(US Export Label), followed jointly at average, June prices were also kept there’s opportunity and value at any$400 each by a 1996 Chateau Cheval well within expectation. For more level with Langton’s. The Awards willBlanc 1er Cru St Emilion (level into neck, information visit www.oddbins.com. always provide stimulus for the keybadly cellar stained label) and a 2006 au. All prices quoted are exclusive of winners - a case in point would be theDomaine Armand Rousseau Grand Cru buyer’s premium. unparalleled year-on-year increase ofCharmes Chambertin. The Italian was Serrat Shiraz Viognier following lasta 2000 Prunotto Bric Turot Barbaresco LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS year’s announcement - by the numbers,from Piedmont which fetched $70. (AUGUST REPORT, by SAMUEL this wine experienced a 1009 per centBundaberg Black rum continued to make BURRIDGE) increase from RRP to hammer price.statement on the auction market, with a August once again saw the Halliday Similarly, 2014 Best’s Thomson Familybottle of 1991 Vat 89 Black 10-year-old Wine Companion Annual Awards event Shiraz enjoyed strong fillip accordingrum taking our first position on the Top and Langton’s was proud to continue its award status - coming under the10 Hammer Prices, Fortified Wine and its partnership with the HWC team in hammer for $ 331. The stunning 2014Spirits list with $251. That said, Seppelt this celebration of Australia’s finest Brokenwood Graveyard, revelling in itsand Hardys vintage dated fortifieds wines and producers. We were more renaissance, was acquired for $215.continued to dominate the table. Moving than overjoyed to see the success of Another key Hunter release, Winery ofon to bidding and Yalumba The Octavius so many Langton’s Group partners - the Year’s 2013 Mt Pleasant Maurice- never a really top performer at auction from luminaries of the classification O’Shea Shiraz hammered in at $206,- took the cake in June, claiming the first like Tahbilk, Cullen and Best’s - to while its 2009 Lovedale Semillon hasthree spots on the Top 10 Australian favourites like Larry Cherubino and long been a secondary market darlingPerformers, Percentage Above Top End Cloudburst. All of these, we’re pleased and realised sales of $60 per bottle. Forof Guides list. The 2004 shiraz went to announce, took part in the Langton’s all your secondary market requirements,46.7 per cent over the guides, with a Wine Companion Award Auction on news and information please visit www.2006 going 35.7 per cent over and a 11 August. With stirring results and langtons.com.au. All prices include2006, 26.3 per cent over. Buyers in near-unprecedented bidding, this buyer’s premium.Oddbins’ Imported category returned Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 57

wine investment & collectingSTERLING WINE AUCTIONS Estate. This Magnificent Seven makes Giaconda Chardonnay has been known(AUGUST MARKET REVIEW, by up more than 50 per cent of the premium to ignite a feeding frenzy. UndoubtedlyLYNTON BARBER) wine auction market value. Looking back the source of the greatest cult sorceryThe amazing Penfolds Show is a runaway over the last 20 years there have been is the Rockford Stonewall. High priesthit at every wine auction and Grange a handful of other mad “must have” O’Callaghan controls veritable legionsisn’t the only one getting attention, with wines that have pushed prices to dizzying of one-eyed Basket Press fanatics, allover 20 Penfolds’ brands sought out by heights and their own names into legend prepared for great sacrifice. Such iscollectors. So what makes the brand so status. The current title holder here is the commotion when they come tocollectable? A quick look at history and the 2010 St Henri. Everyone has to have auction, bottles of 1998 Basket Presswe all know the name Dr Christopher a bottle and the price, sitting around a need to be transported by Armaguard!Rawson Penfold. The good doctor hammer fall of $160 a bottle, is almost The Penfolds domination of the wineset up on 200ha in Magill (originally double that of other recent vintage St auction market is best demonstrated byMakgill), overlooking Adelaide. He built Henri. The 1990 Grange, was, and to a recent Sterling sale that saw nine ofthe famous Grange cottage and started some degree still is, the most famous the top 10 “most wanted” wines comingprescribing the wine he made to his and successful wine auction contender. from Penfolds. A single, sad bottle ofpatients, all before 1850! If you do a wiki How do you define 1971 and 1976 Orlando St Hugo was the only thingsearch, the power behind the throne was Grange Hermitage? Classics graduated standing in the way of a clean sweep.Dr Christopher’s wife, Mary - who ran to immortals? The list goes on: the 1996 At number one, a bottle of 1976 Bin 389the business single-handed through a St Henri, a superstar from 10 years ago, attracted all the deserved attention, withperiod of rapid growth and consolidation - still sells at prices way above the St 25 bids and a $201 hammer fall. Moresetting the course for its future success. Henri pack. Bin 707 madness has been of a surprise was the bottle of 1977Where is the wine label in honour of this cooled by a retail price now approaching Bin 389 that dead-heated on the “mostwoman? The Penfolds pantheon is a list $300 a bottle but the hot vintages - wanted” stakes with 25 bids, but pulledof the Who’s Who of Australian wine. particularly 1996 - still send the bids a remarkable $321 final bid. A fabulousLet’s just look at the original all-stars - off the meter. Were there others? The collection of Bin 389 classics dominatedGrange Bin 95, St Henri, Bin 28 Kalimna, 1982 Wynns John Riddoch has been this particular auction, with 1980 andBin 707, Bin 389, Bin 128 and Magill elevated above the mortal realm and 1982 pulling big interest and winning 658 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

wine investment & collectingbids of $122 and $114 respectively. the very best. The wines both attracted normal New Zealand section to ourAs always, rare old Grange Hermitage appropriate interest and went off to catalogue with 37 per cent of the total.enjoyed pride of place with the 1973 good homes. For more information about A sell through rate of 77 per cent in thiscornering 21 bids and a final winning Sterling Wine Auctions, visit www. section was very pleasing. There werebid of $ 304. A record bid price of $741 sterlingwine.com.au. All prices quoted a number of very happy vendors, withcaptured the 1977 Grange bottle, with a are hammer fall, before buyer’s premium. the likes of Te Mata Coleraine averagingmore palatable bid of $344 securing the 44 per cent above their reserves.1988 Grange Hermitage. Life is all about MOSSGREEN-WEBB’S Another highlight from Te Mata wastiming and auction buyers with an eye (by REECE WARREN) a complete vertical of their Bullnosefor a bargain and the foresight to buy the Mossgreen-Webb’s auctions go from Syrah that sold for $66 per bottle. This“cheap” 1956 Penfolds Five Star Ports strength to strength with our new online being the first time these wines hada few years ago at under $50 a bottle platform and subsequent Buy Now ever left the winery, provenance onwere celebrating. Good looking bottles Auctions, bringing in many new buyers, this vertical could not have been better.of Five Star 1956s have been sliding predominantly from New Zealand but Watch for future auctions of verticals ofthrough Sterling Auctions this year at also further afield. Buyers now have both Awatea and Coleraine. Stonyridgesale prices approaching $200 a bottle. In the ability to follow the auction and bid Larose also hit new highs, with a case ofthis recent sale, two bottles were in the online as the sale is happening in the the fabulous 2013 selling for 67 per centtop 10 “most wanted”, with aggressive room. This has been revolutionary for above the reserve. Once again bordeauxbidding from 14 buyers pushing the our business. July’s auction featured featured well and was highlighted bysale bid up to $170+. A couple of non- many aspirational wines, as well as a number of First Growths from thePenfolds bargains that caught my eye great value and everyday drinkers. A sell exceptional 1982 vintage, as well aswere the 1995 Vasse Felix Heytesbury through rate of 71 per cent was around two lots of 1986 Chateau Moutonand the 2010 Jim Barry Armagh. Both our average but this rose to 76 per cent Rothschild (Robert Parker 100 points).are very different wines, with one thing for private vendors. Trade vendors are a The absolute star had to be the two lotsin common - both were made by proud, small but important part of our business of Chateau Lafite Rothschild going forsuccessful families determined to define as well. Unusually, we had a higher than an average of $3840 per bottle. Thereand then exceed the understanding of was also great interest in two lots CONSIGNING NOWFine & Rare WinesAnnouncing the sale of Fine & Rare Wines at MossgreenWe are delighted to announce a new department devoted to thebuying and selling of Fine & Rare Australian and International Wine.Led by Michael Katoa and Reece Warren, our experienced specialistscome with diverse backgrounds in Viticulture and Oenology.We are now accepting consignments for our upcoming auctions.ContactMichael KatoaHead of Fine & Rare Wines [email protected]+61 3 9508 8888 +61 401 088 214 926 – 930 High Street Armadale VIC 3143 www.mossgreen.com.auWinestate August Advert.indd 1 November/December 2016 W I N E S3T1/A08T/16E 1:40 pm59

wine investment & collectingof 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild In other news, I’m pleased to welcome GRAYSWINEaveraging over $1400 per bottle. Two our new Melbourne-based specialist, (SEPTEMBER REPORT BY GREGlots of 1982 Chateau Margaux did not Michael Katoa, as we expand fine and FITZSIMMONS)reach the heights of the other two First rare wine sales at Mossgreen. A Kiwi The financial year is well and trulyGrowths, but left vendor and buyers by birth, Katoa has had an extensive ticking along and all our new politiciansvery happy. These prices were under career in the Australian wine industry have been sworn in so that a good wineinternational averages but only go to and most recently as head sommelier is now needed to maintain ones sanity.prove New Zealand is a very good place of a top Melbourne restaurant. He This and the advent of warmer weatherto buy these kinds of wines. They all will be based in Melbourne and able is reflected in the steadily growing winecame from a single vendor who was to provide local collectors acquisition sales on our unique website.very pleased with the result (until now advice and auction market appraisals.he was the only owner and, at the end As we approach the festive season We are unique in that rather thanof the day, did exceptionally well on his there are plenty of fantastic wines having auctions with hundreds, if notinitial purchase). available to buy at a fraction of the thousands of wines, from commercial retail cost. Our next sale on November through to super premium, all jumbled In September, Mossgreen-Webb’s 15 comprises excellent gifts for loved in together (either alphabetically or byoffered the complete cellar list of ones, colleagues or friends. Fine wines country), we conduct separate, specialSaggio di Vino - one of Christchurch’s also make a perfect corporate gift. We auctions for premium fine wines andfinest dining restaurants, with a all know how busy this time of the year magnums. This system makes it farcellar list comprising many fabulous is so the online platform is always an simpler for our customers to zero in onwines. The auction was met with an option for time-poor bidders. All prices the sort of wine that they are lookingenthusiastic response from bidders in this article are inclusive of buyer’s for, making it easier for them to findkeen to grab well-cellared wines at premium +GST. what they are after as they don’t havegood prices. Saggio di Vino has been to flick through screenful’s of irrelevantan institution in Christchurch over the (to them) wines to find what they arelast 25 years and we were very pleased interested in.to offer their cellar. For full results visitw w w.m o s s g re e n - we b b s .c o.nz. Added to this we have the only “bidding history” look-up available inIntroducing GraysWineJoin our community of wine loversand growers. Discover a better wayto buy and sell wine.Choose from 30 day Quick Delivery Name your Price2000+ Wines Money-Back RIGHT TO YOUR BID FROM JUST $9WORTH EVERY GUARANTEE DOOR FOR MOST CASES DROPFind out why selling and buying wine on GraysWine is worth every drop!Contact us: [email protected] W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

wine investment & collectingAustralia, where you can see by initials Meshach, Elderton - both the Ashmead find, at present there is a good supplyand suburb (for example LW Mosman) Cabernet and the Command Shiraz, as of a wide range of magnums available,who has bid on that particular lot so well as from Heathcote Victoria, the headlined by Hewitson Wines from thefar, and when each of the bids were Baptista The Graytown Shiraz. Barossa and Howard Park Wines fromplaced. We also have scores, using Margaret River. Other magnums in goodthe 100-point-scale, by reputable Recently, we had a great selection of supply include Penfolds Grange and 707wine judges/critics, shown on screen older champagnes, from a unique single along with the likes of Grant Burge’sfor many of the fine wines listed on cellar. This coupled with our occasional Meshach and up and coming Hentleyour site, thus helping to assure our auctions of well cellared wines, such Farm from the Barossa Valley.customers of the quality of the wines as the recent “History in a Glass 1958-that they are bidding on. 2008\" auction, provide access to well We offer great prices on an outstanding matured wines which have proved very range of premium and super premium All these factors combined make our popular with our customers. wines, right through to some of thewebsite the most user friendly wine finest wines in the world. This serviceauction site in Australia. In the spirits department, there is is enhanced by our fast and very a keen interest in the unusual, with efficient delivery service that means Demand for top, super-premium one of the star performers being a your newly acquired wines can be onwines, especially Grange and top shelf bottle of Bundaberg Centenary Vat 100 your dining table within just a few daysBordeaux reds continues to be very 1888-1988 Rum which realised $ 944. of your bidding. For more informationstrong. Some of the recent highlights Another was a bottle of MacCallan Fine about our range of superb wines, forinclude a bottle of 1978 Domaine de Oak 21 Year Old Triple Cask single malt all occasions and the great servicela Romanee- Conti La Tache that sold which sold for $899. here at GraysWine, please visit www.for $1,699, whilst a bottle of the same grayswine.com.au. (Prices listed don'twine from the outstanding 1985 vintage Magnums are the sleeping giants of include buyers' premium.) sold for $1,859. Closer to home, apart the auction scene at the moment, asfrom Grange, the other recent good they are an excellent proposition for longperformers have included: d’Arenberg term cellaring or ideal for celebratory- both the Dead Arm Shiraz and the purposes such as special birthdaysCopper Road Cabernet, Grant Burge and significant anniversaries. Unlike In the past when magnums were hard to November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 61

111 TASTED58 AWARDEDPINOT NOIRA very good selection of pinots judged within price categories. Villa MariaAgain we noticed that too many wines veered into the dry reds Cellar Selectioncategory rather than being showcased as pinot varietals. But across Marlborough Pinotthe board there are nice recommendations in each price bracket. Noir 2014 HHH Lots of cherries on the nose with a spicy lift and a big, dark, ripe fruit palate. 3-5 $25PINOT NOIR Kaiora Bay Reserve Wise Leaf Series PINOT NOIRUNDER $20 Central Otago Pinot Great Southern 2015 Noir 2014 HHH Pinot Noir $30-$4011 TASTED Earthy savoury bouquet 2015 HHHH and good fruit/oak Lovely rich stalky cherry 14 TASTED5 AWARDED intensity on the nicely characters on the nose textured palate. which are echoed on the 9 AWARDED palate and merging withSome nice drinks 3-5 $14.99 licorice-like elements. $28 A solid class as theamongst this group judges expected inwhich showed some Rose Family Matahiwi Estate Patrick Estate this price category.varietal character. Those Estate Robinsons Wairarapa Pinot Noir Mount Gambier Although young theythat did not make the Marlborough Pinot 2015 HHHH Pinot Noir were certainly a step-grade were either too Noir 2014 HHH Deep red wine; hint of 2015 HHH up. \"Amazing what andilute or contained Light but intense jubey sweet plums on the nose Oaky herbal lime nose oak budget and goodpressings coarseness. herbal aromas and soft with some savoury notes winemaking can do,\" varietal palate with some and layers of strawberry, commented one judge.Matahiwi Estate complexity. $16 cherry and oak flavours. and a simple palate with dark fruit freshness andMt Hector Wairarapa PINOT NOIR 3-5 $29 $20-$30Pinot Noir Summerhouse sweet oak. 3-5 $29 Sileni Estate 31 TASTED Marlborough Pinot Selection Plateau2015 HHHH 11 AWARDED Noir 2014 HHHH Oakdene Bellarine Hawke's Bay PinotA lovely fragrant Ripe flavoursome pinot Peninsula Pinot Noir Noir 2015 HHHHcomplexity of forest Good pinots were few with lovely intensity of 2014 HHH A full-bodied pinot with afloor and red berry fruit and far between here strawberry and cherry- Enticing red berry powerful lifted dark fruitcharacters with a nicely but those that did score like characters and some fragrances with an nose and lovely lingeringtextured aromatic earthy well showed intense attractive secondary earthy/savoury varietal varietal fruit flavoursberry palate. 3-5 varietal character notes developing. $30 palate; some complexity. with soft tannins in$19 which is nice to see support. $32.99 NZ in this price bracket. 3-5 $24 \"Unfortunately too manyThe Seafarer 570 were trying to make Babich Black Label Wairau River Stefani Estate VignaWines South Eastern the wines rather than Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Stefani Yarra ValleyAustralia Pinot Noir growing them ending up Noir 2015 HHH1/2 Noir 2015 HHH Pinot Noir2015 HHH with dry reds.\" Delicate earthy/savoury Nicely lifted stalky 2015 HHH1/2Fresh lifted varietal strawberry aromas and strawberry aromas and Nicely textured, full-aromatics and a light, GMH Adelaide Hills simple varietal palate savoury richness to the bodied varietal with darkclean and simple jubey Pinot Noir that's clean, fresh and complex textured palate. fruit notes on the nosepalate. $11 2015 HHHH lingers on. 3-5 and a dense creamy Good varietal bouquet $25 CDO 5+ $25 cherry palate. Hint of with nice earthy oak. 5+ $30Four Sisters Central complexity. Palate is Babich Marlborough Paracombe AdelaideVictoria Pinot Noir delicate but delicious with Hills Pinot Noir2015 HHH subtle oak, good length Pinot Noir 2014 HHHPlums and cherries and balance. $20 2015 HHH Artwine Sainton the nose and a Good varietal fruit drive Vincent Adelaideflavoursome palate with Bright cherry fruit and with a lifted nose anddelicate varietal flavours. toasty oak bouquet with Hills Pinot Noir soft simple but quite rich 2015 HHH 3-5 $13.95 lingering soft varietal fruit palate. 5+ $21 flavours. 3-5 $25 An earthy oaky savoury style with plenty of intense dark fruit characters. 5+ $3062 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

varietal tastingSileni Estate Yealands Bream Creek Invivo Wines Central MoorooducSelection Winemakers Reserve Vineyards Tasmania Otago Pinot Noir Estate RobinsonSpringstone Gibbston Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2014 HHH Single VineyardHawke's Bay Pinot 2015 HHH 2013 HHH1/2 Savoury earthy nose with MorningtonNoir 2015 HHH Aromatic strawberry Savoury bouquet with a hint of spice; big and Peninsula Pinot NoirLifted cherry and nose with rhubarb medicinal element. Palate complex sweet fruit/oak 2014 HHHHHstrawberry fruit notes and a delicate and shows good presence of palate. 3-5 $35 Funky forest floorcharacters layered with delicious fruity palate. varietal fruit, tannins and fragrances melded withlicorice notes and good oak. 5+ $36 Saint Clair Family intense red berry fruit.oak use. 5+ 5+ $39.95 Estate Bull Block Long warming palate, 5 Omaka Valley$34.99 NZ PINOT NOIR d'Arenberg Marlborough Pinot textured and layered and 2014 & OLDER The Feral Fox Noir 2014 HHH full of ripe cherry andBabich Family Estate $30-$40 Adelaide Hills Pinot Stalky herbal varietal strawberry fruit. GoodHeadwaters Organic Noir 2014 HHH nose with a spicy sweetness. 5+ $55Marlborough Pinot 24 TASTED Aromas of spicy savoury red fruit palateNoir 2015 HHH 9 AWARDED red berries and nice underscored by acid. Santolin Syme onIntense sour cherry intensity of sour cherry Yarra Vineyard Yarrabouquet with a spicy lift The judges were flavours on a dry palate. 5+ $37.90 NZ Valley Pinot Noirto the palate and simple disappointed! \"Only 2015 HHHH1/2sweet oak/fruit flavours. take one twenty dollar 5+ $30 Saint Clair Family Earthy savoury nose note out of your pocket, Estate Twin Hills with some smokiness to 5+ $35 not two,\" advised 10 Omaka Valley it. Very varietal, full and one judge. \"Too many Marlborough Pinot flavoursome palate, well-Sidewood 777 'old oak' issues here Noir 2014 HHH structured with plenty ofAdelaide Hills Pinot without varietal fruit Good 'pinosity' on the dark cherry-like flavoursNoir 2015 HHH characters and some nose. Good weight and subtle use of oak.Funky varietal nose and wines showing common of varietal fruit on thesilky smooth palate winemaking faults.\" palate with subtle oak. 5+ $45with delicate strawberryflavours. 3-5 $35 5+ $37.90 NZ Spring Vale Freycinet CoastMount Riley Babich Winemaker’s Giesen The Brothers Tasmania Pinot NoirSeventeen Valley Reserve Marlborough Pinot 2015 HHHH1/2Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 HHH Aromas of cherries,Noir 2015 HHH Noir 2014 HHHH A silky smooth and spices and herbs fillSmells of Cherry Kirsch Earthy mushroom- flavoursome wine with the glass. There areand is soft in the mouth lingering varietal fruit some sweet/sour-likewith plenty of 'pinosity'. and good level of acid. characters on the long$38.95 and lingering varietal 3-5 $30 palate. Oak not obvious.Kakaba Reserve like characters lift off PINOT NOIR 5+ $45Adelaide Hills Pinot the nose. Mature and $40-$60Noir 2015 HHH savoury oak-drivenSpicy red berry palate but there is a 19 TASTED Maude Centralbouquet and a smooth good line of varietal fruit. Tamar Ridge Otago Pinot Noirstrawberry and cream 5+ $35 Tasmania Pinot Noir 12 AWARDED 2015 HHHHpalate with sweet finish. A complexity of dark fruit Stefani Estate 2014 HHH and oak aromas leading 5+ $39 Intensely varietal nose on to a long, intense and The View Yarra with a delicate touch Finally some consistency dark cherry palate nicely Valley Pinot Noir of violets. Palate is and quality here! \"A lot layered with the oak. 2014 HHH1/2 complex and varietal. of wines here showing Smooth and flavoursome 3-5 $30 excellent extract offering 5+ $42 ageing potential,\" said with a complexity of spicy one judge. \"These savoury varietal fruit, good are showing savoury acid and supporting oak. characters (some stem 5+ $30 characters) along with vibrant fresh fruit.\"JUDGES - DAY 1 Victor Nash Steven Paul Adrian Santolin Chief Winemaker Manager for Winemaker Rob Dolan at Fowles. 15 years Oakdene Wines. Wines and Santolin winemaking experience. Completed AWRI Wines. Previously A finalist in the Young and WSET Advanced with De Bortoli Wines, Australian Winemaker Wine Assessment Rochford and Sticks of Year competition. Certificates. Judge wineries. Has vintaged in Director of the Victorian at Victorian wine Italy, in the Franciacorta wine show. show and associate region. at Geelong, Ballarat and Cairns. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 63

PINOT NOIRSaint Clair Ross Hill Pinnacle Giesen Ridge Block Giesen WaihopaiFamily Estate Series Orange Pinot Single Vineyard Single VineyardOmaka Reserve Noir 2014 HHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Marlborough PinotMarlborough Pinot Savoury, complex and Noir 2013 HHHHH Noir 2014 HHHHNoir 2015 HHHH earthy with varietal fruit Deep brooding earthy/ Savoury nose; a spicy mixIt's all earthy, savoury sweetness pushing savoury nose with of oak and dark fruits. Theand full of flavour. Toasty through. Firm drying intense lifted red fruit long warming palate hasnotes lift off the nose tannins with well-handled aromas. Very varietal, soft fruits, lots of spiceand the sweet varietal oak. 5+ $40 full-bodied palate that is and compact tannins.fruit palate fills the long and well-structuredmouth. 5+ $43 NZ Oakdene Peta's with deliciously intense 5+ $64.95 Single Vineyard flavours. 5+ $64.95 Paringa Estate TheSantolin Willow Geelong Pinot Noir Paringa MorningtonLake Vineyard Yarra 2014 HHH Peninsula Pinot NoirValley Pinot Noir Spicy nose with a mineral 2015 HHHH2015 HHHH thread with more of the A very attractive lighterSilky smooth and same on the complex savoury style withflavoursome pinot. Spicy palate. 3-5 $43 pleasant light cherry andherbal fruit on the nose berry fruit characters.with firm drying tannins Mt Difficulty It's simple and fresh andon the oak dominated Bannockbum good drinking. $90palate. 5+ $45 Central Otago Pinot Noir 2014 HHH Lerida Estate A juicy full-bodied Josephine Lake varietal with dark sweet George Canberra Tamar Ridge Reserve fruit, licorice notes and a District Pinot Noir Tasmania Pinot Noir spicy lift. 5+ $50 2014 HHH 2013 HHH Mature savoury aromas Funky forest floor Bream Creek with a fruity lift. Firm fragrances. Palate has Vineyard Cellar tannin palate with good some oak, some tannins Reserve Tasmania cherry fruit length. and then fruit. $65 Pinot Noir 5+ $65 Hickinbotham 2008 HHH Ripe cherry bouquet Lerida Estate of Dromana with hints of menthol Josephine Lake Mornington and a sweet fruit/oak George Canberra Peninsula Pinot Noir palate. 5+ $45 Paringa Estate District Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Estate Mornington 2013 HHH Firm, warm and drying PINOT NOIR Peninsula Pinot Noir A subtle wine. Simple style with good ripe $60+ 2014 HHHH1/2 lifted spicy fruit nose; a fruit and smoky oak to Intense pinot nose with complexity of strawberry balance. $65 12 TASTED aromas of raspberries and cherries and some and smoky oak flavours. Spring Vale Cellar 12 AWARDED olive-like elements. 5+ $65 Reserve Freycinet Lovely palate - rich and balanced with bold fruit Coast Tasmania flavours and lingering Pinot Noir Great consistency acidity. $60 2009 HHHNazaaray here with good fruit Giesen Clayvin Good lifted nose andMornington concentration and Single VineyardPeninsula Pinot Noir structured tannins. Marlborough Pinot velvety smooth palate \"Some could have even Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 with lingering flavours.2014 HHHH seen more oak,\" noted A big ripe pinot with Still fresh! $95Stalky herbal red fruit one judge. \"The varietal excellent structure andaromas and a lovely fruit is there and that length. Nose shows aintensity of stalky sour is very positive in a lift of dark red fruit withcherry varietal flavours balanced equation.\" a slight medicinal edge.wrapped in a big spike Good drive and intensity STAR RATINGS of acid. 5+ $40 Home Hill Kelly's of varietal flavours. Reserve Tasmania Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofVilla Maria Taylors Pinot Noir 5+ $64.95 excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.Pass Vineyard 2015 HHHHH Paringa Estate All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryMarlborough Pinot The nose is all fresh Estate Mornington professionals and are compared in peerNoir 2012 HHHH cherries, sweet Peninsula Pinot Noir classes by three judges.Good varietal fruit with strawberries and black 2015 HHHH CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a lovely spicy lift on both licorice with subtle Ripe, jubey and simple a major mail-order business.nose and palate. A simple oak characters. A long with fresh cherry and CD Cellar door price.but well-structured wine complex palate with lifted spicy bouquet and CDO Cellar door only.with compact tannins. intense fruit flavours lingering cherry flavours SO Sold out. nicely matched with nicely supported by the $N/A Price not available at time of printing. 5+ $55 the oak and tannins. acid. $60  Contact information pg 135 -137. 5+ $75 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au64 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016



CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING155 TASTED102 AWARDEDCHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGAn excellent tasting of “bubbles”, ranging from the ultra-cheap Wise Wine The SPARKLINGcharmat (tank fermented) wines to the ultra-expensive bottle Bead Porongurup $10-$20fermented and aged prestige Champagne brands and everything Pembertonin-between. Also worth considering is what appears to be Sparkling Rosé 8 TASTEDAussie speciality, namely sparkling reds (formerly known as NV HHH 6 AWARDEDsparkling burgundies). Herbaceous notes to the raspberry/strawberry Another solid non-SPARKLING SPARKLING aromas with very vintage group ofUNDER $10 ROSÉ moreish lifted berry sparklings with the flavours. $19.50 sugar reflecting the4 TASTED 12 TASTED Clover Hill Tasmania commercial price. The Cuvée Rosé NV HHH one vintage in this price1 AWARDED 6 AWARDED Light bouquet with bracket offered good hints of cherries. Good quaffing.One great value wine at A solid mixed group of strawberry flavours on anthis price. quaffers ranging from acid-driven palate. $32 Azahara Victoria confectionery sweet and Taltarni Pyrenees Chardonnay Pinot carbonated styles to the Cuvée Rosé Noir NV HHH1/2 serious dry yeasty ones. 2011 HHH A bright wine with Pleasant aged interesting popcorn- Jacob's Creek characters here with like characters on Trilogy Australia good yeast autolysis. the nose and a tight Rosé NV HHH1/2 Well-integrated palate; uncomplicated palate. Salmon coloured wine nice mouthfeel. $25 Easy to drink. $14.99 with biscuity aromas and Arras Methode a light berry palate with Traditionelle Jacob's Creek some savoury notes Tasmania Rosé Trilogy Australia and good level of acid. 2006 HHH Brut Cuvee $16.99 A shy nose with light NV HHH1/2 Blue Pyrenees aromas but very good Very fruity confectionery Estate Pyrenees Brut vintage flavours on a bouquet and a clean, Rosé NV HHH1/2 well-balanced palate. $80 fresh, well-made fruit Good yeasty complexity salad of a palate that South Point Estate evident on the nose and shows nice texture. SEA Chardonnay sherbety texture to the $16.99 Pinot Noir NV HHHH palate. Good savoury The honeyed caramel tannin presence. $24 Mt Jagged Wines aromas are mixed with Pale Rush Southern clean fruity characters. Fleurieu Sparkling Creamy in the mouth Chardonnay with pleasant fruit-driven 2015 HHH1/2 flavours. $5.99 Bright complex yeasty aromas and a tight, high acid, citrussy palate with nicely balanced sweetness. $18JUDGES - DAY 1 Steve Brown Peta Baverstock Owen Inglis Former Winemaker and Sparkling Winemaker/ Owner of Sidewood Viticulturist for Padthaway Consultant. Has judged Wines in the Adelaide Estates Sparkling at Limestone Coast and Hills since 2004. Has Winemakers. Has Royal Adelaide wine completed the WSET vintaged in Champagne shows. Previously sparkling course. Wine importer and has completed winemaker at Accolade and distributor for Masters of Winemaking Wines and Domain Chandon. 30 years. Qualified in Burgundy. Judged Vintaged at La Crema in sommelier. in South Africa, New Sonoma and Bollinger Zealand, France and (Champagne). Finalist in the Australia. Vin de Champagne Award three times.66 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

varietal tastingJacob's Creek MEETClassic Australia TASTEChardonnay PinotNoir NV HHHPleasant floral noseand a fine bead with alight, simple and well-balanced fruit palate.$14.99Grant Burge DIS&COVERAustralia CuvéeBrut NV HHHCrisp clean style withfloral/citrus aromas andsimple peachy palatewith some sweetness.$15Syn McLaren VBBAEULSYUTSEVale CuvéeBlanc NV HHHSlightly sweet stylethat has a fresh andlively floral nose with a Schild Estatecitrussy palate. $18 Barossa Valley Adelaide HillsNON- Chardonnay Pinot 24-26 FEBVINTAGE Noir NV HHHH 2017SPARKLING A delightful Aussie$20-$30 sparkling with toasty SOU T H A US T R A L I A’S nougat aromas and BEST IN THE10 TASTED creamy honeyed flavours showing lovely yeasty HEART OF THE CITY3 AWARDED characters. Dry finish. $25 Arras A by ArrasOnly a few wines made Tasmania Premium 18O Producers 3 Days 1 Roofthe grade here. \"Are Cuvée NV HHH1/2winemakers pushing Lovely mélange ofthe envelope and not nougat and oysterin a balanced way,\" fragrances with a lean,questioned one judge. tight palate layered with mushroom and fig flavours. $25 BOOKINGS Grant Burge FOR 2017 Australia Brut Pinot NOW OPEN Noir Chardonnay NV HHH A whipped honey-like nose and an elegant and very feminine palate with pleasant flavours. $26.95 VINTAGE To Book SPARKLING $20-$30 08 8210 6774 [email protected] 12 TASTED 3 AWARDED The judges were CELL A RDOORFEST IVA L.CO M disappointed. A number ADELAIDE CONVENTION CENTRE of borderline wines here but overall there were either too many simple wines or those that had unbalanced sweetness. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 67

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGTaltarni Blanc de 2 Mates McLaren VINTAGE Brick Kiln Single MOSCATOBlancs Pyrenees Vale Sparkling SPARKLING Vineyard McLarenChardonnay Shiraz NV HHH1/2 RED Vale Sparkling 1 TASTED2012 HHHH Sweet, soft and licoricey Shiraz 2014 HHH 0 AWARDEDPredominantly smells aromas with a long, 13 TASTED Sweet oak nose withof black olives with generous and fleshy 8 AWARDED a coffee-like thread. ITALIAN &a myriad of aromas palate showing a good Generous plum fruit SPANISHunderneath. The citrussy aged base wine. $27.50 A stronger class at the palate with textured SPARKLINGpalate is fine, tight and top end than in the non- tannins. $28 STYLESvery feminine. $25 Andrew Garrett vintage sparkling reds, Saddler's Creek SEA Sparkling but more problems at Bluegrass Langhorne 16 TASTEDGiesen Classic Shiraz VBBAEULSYUTSE the lower end where, Creek Sparkling 8 AWARDEDCuvee Marlborough NV HHH according to one Cabernet SauvignonSparkling Ruby red wine with a judge, \"It appears that 2014 HHH Mixed result hereChardonnay spicy plum bouquet winemakers are getting Very varietal with plenty with the better wines2014 HHH1/2 and a soft fleshy cherry rid of problem wines or of bead, a herbaceous showing more characterBeautiful toasty yeasty palate with nice level of problem fruit\". nose and a light and than the simpler version.development on the nose tannins. $14.99 lively palate. $42 \"Brightness and zestyand a lovely harmony of Sutherland Andrew Garrett freshness is the keyslightly sweet creamy Syn Rouge Estate Yarra McLaren Vale here to make theseflavours. $24.95 Coonawarra Valley Sparkling Sparkling Shiraz wines very quaffable,\" Sparkling Shiraz Tempranillo 2013 HHH noted one judge.Wolf Blass Gold NV HHH 2014 HHHH Toasty savoury aromasLabel Adelaide A youthful, fun and Earthy musky aromas showing some age. Terra Felix KingHills Pinot Noir fruity, plum-driven wine and an attractive lightly Fruity in the mouth Valley ProseccoChardonnay with slightly high level of varietal palate with with some nice 2015 HHHH2014 HHH alcohol. $18 some Vegemite notes fleshiness. $24.99 Attractive yeastinessA pleasant slightly and showing lovely Beresford McLaren to the lifted sweet fruitsweet but well-balanced Mr Riggs Battle overall freshness. $35 Vale Sparkling nose. Very creamy in thesparkling showing some Axe McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 HHH mouth with a nice nuttyageing potential. $25 Sparkling Shiraz Grampians Estate Dusty moody bouquet length and good line of NV HHH Rutherford with layers of oak acid. $22.50NON- Subdued slightly oaky Grampians tannins and spicy fruitVINTAGE aromas and a rich sweet Sparkling Shiraz and an elegant, balanced Bisol SalisSPARKLING fruit cake of a palate 2013 HHHH palate. $24.99 Superiore DOCGRED with soft tannins. $24 Light berry bouquet with Anderson Cellar Dry Valdobbiadene a promising perfumed Block Rutherglen Prosecco10 TASTED Mollydooker lift. Very pleasant sweet Sparkling Shiraz 2014 HHHH6 AWARDED Miss Molly South plum fruit palate with 2002 HHH Pleasant passionfruit Australia Sparkling tannins adding to the Dense fruit-driven nose aromas with persistentPleasant commercial Shiraz NV HHH balance. $35 and luscious, somewhat and tasty citrus-drivengroup of wines with Oak-driven nose with porty palate. \"Looks like flavours showing somegood balance of a hint of mint. Soft and Gartelmann Wines a 3-year-old wine!\" $49 nice aged characterssugar; not too much. velvety in the mouth Hunter Valley developing. $29.95\"Bubbles exaggerate with dusty tannins. $28 Mudgee Sparklingoak,\" according to one Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2judge. Generally, a very Blue Pyrenees A classic Aussiedrinkable class. Estate Pyrenees sparkling shiraz showing Sparkling Shiraz lots of promise. Palate NV HHH has layers of flavour with Lifted fruit bouquet with refreshing acidity. $35 savoury undertones and a palate full of dark peppery fruit flavours. $30JUDGES - DAY 2 Jane Paul Ulrich Grey-Smith Freelance wine Coonawarra based Ed Carr consultant, viticulturist, freelance winemaker. Group sparkling winemaker and wine Winemaker for winemaker for educator. Lecturer in Padthaway Estate. Four Accolade Wines. sensory evaluation at the years at BRL Hardy and Has spent 30 years International College of De Bortoli respectively, in sparkling wine at Hotel Management and with time also spent in both Southcorp and Le Cordon Bleu. Course Germany, Canada and Accolade. Regular trainer for the Wine and Champagne. Judge at Winestate sparkling Spirit Education Trust. various regional wine wine & champagne National and regional shows. judge. show judge.68 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

Bisol Relio Corte Carista varietal tastingTraditional Method VenetoExtra Valdobbiadene Prosecco VBBAEULSYUTSE Alex Russell WinesBrut 2009 HHHHNose has some NV HHH Since 2012, independant winemakerdevelopment Nutty nose with a Alex Russell of South Australia’s Riverlandunderscored with light perfumed lift and has been producing a glorious range ofmarzipan characters. palate with a sweet premium, alternative varietal wines, winning aRich persistence of citrus profile. Good acid multitude of medals and praise along the way.interesting chocolaty spine. $9.99 The Alejandro range of premium alternativecitrus flavours. $79.95 wines is now available at quality independant Zonte's VBBAEULSYUTSE Footstep Bolle retailers and online.Castell de Felici Fleurieu LAGREIN SAPERAVI MONTEPULCIANO VERMENTINO DURIF TEMPRANILLO MOSCATO and MORE!Ribes Brut VBBAEULSYUTSE Peninsula ProseccoNature NV HHHCatalonia Spain Aromatic muscatyCava NV HHH1/2 aromas and a lively,A complexity of nutty persistent andfloral aromatics and a flavoursome sherbetydry savoury palate with palate. $18bright acid and goodflavour persistence. Bottego DOCG$20 Valdobbiadene Italy Prosecco NV HHH Light muscat/pistachio bouquet; soft and creamy in the mouth with good fruit flavours. $26 Bisol Vigneti del SPECIAL OFFER FOR ALL Fol Superiore WINESTATE READERS DOCG Extra Dry Valdobbiadene Get 20% off and FREE SHIPPING for all Prosecco 2014 HHH mixed and straight dozens! Dry nutty nose with toasty development and a rich, Visit alexrussellwines.com.au round and flavoursome and use the promo code WINESTATE2016 palate. $39.95 at checkout to redeem your discount. For wholesale enquiries, contact us today via our website alexrussellwines.com.au November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 69

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGNON- Centennial Bream Creek Spring Vale Salute Arras Brut EliteVINTAGE Vineyards Blanc Cuvee Traditionelle Tasmania Pinot Noir Tasmania SparklingAUSTRALIAN de Noirs Southern Tasmania Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Cuvee NV HHHHHSPARKLING Highlands Pinot Noir Chardonnay Meunier 2014 HHH \"Has a great Tassie feel,\"$30-$40 NV HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 Fruity nose with floral said one judge. Great A spicy nose of cloves Very youthful for a six- esters and creamy palate nose; interesting and7 TASTED and cinnamon with year-old. Lovely yeasty with persistence of complex. A fine bead.6 AWARDED some great yeast autolysis characters strawberry nuances. $32 Tightly structured palateThe judges found this to autolysis showing. The evident on the nose and has long toasty honeyedbe an excellent class on palate is long and toasty great palate balance Yarra Burn Yarra flavours layered withnon-vintage sparklings and very complex with with long lingering Valley Pinot Noir fruit and refreshingwith some nice cool hints of jasmine and flavours with tapenade Chardonnay Pinot acidity. $50climate and yeast aged citrus. $39 notes. $39 Meunier 2013 HHH Arras Grand Vintagedevelopment. Audrey Wilkinson A relatively simple Tasmania SparklingCentennial Centennial Winemaker's style with soft floral 2007 HHHHHVineyards Southern Vineyards Blanc de Selection Orange fragrances and pleasant Rich aged huesHighlands Pinot Noir Blancs Southern Blanc de Blanc palate with good flavour with lovely toastyChardonnay Pinot Highlands 2013 HHHH length. $30 development dominatingMeunier NV HHHHH Chardonnay Simple, delicate and the nose. The palate isGood bubbles! Lovely NV HHHH1/2 elegant with very bright Grampians Estate lean, tight and long withnutty toasty complexity A lovely golden hued yeasty fruit aromas Kelly's Welcome excellent structure andon the nose with nice wine rich with bready and a palate with good Grampians Henty a complexity of toasty/freshness, complexity aromas and showing complexity and structure Cuvée 2012 HHH nutty fruit flavours. $70and balance to the a great flavour profile with great acid line. $38 Simple citrus-driven Grant Burge Helenepalate that shows a on the powerful palate Blue Pyrenees aromas with more Tasmania Grandegreat persistence of with aged complexity Estate Vintage complexity on the bready/ Cuvee 2006 HHHHHflavours and bright developing. $39 Brut Pyrenees peachy palate. $30 Great fresh nuttyacidity. $30 Chardonnay Pinot aromas with hints Gallagher Sparkling Noir Pinot Meunier Ross Hill Blanc of mushrooms andMajella Minuet Duet Canberra 2012 HHH1/2 de Blancs Orange forest floor nuances.Coonawarra District Pinot Noir Touch of Old Spice-like Chardonnay Excellent palate - long,Sparkling Riesling Chardonnay NV HHH characters on the nose 2011 HHH tight and complex withNV HHHH1/2 Stewed plums on and rich savoury palate Nutty nougat nose and flavours like quinces andAttractive toasty aromas the nose, persistent with musky fruit flavours acid-driven structure to pomegranates. $50with hints of cinnamon strawberry flavours, and a long finish. $30 the complex lemony Arras Tasmaniaand cedar. Lightweight creamy yeast and bright Sutherland Estate flavours. $30 Blanc de Blancspalate; great flavours of acid. $30 Yarra Valley Pinot 2006 HHHHHpeaches and other stone Noir Chardonnay Smithbrook Developed sweetfruits supported by a Clover Hill 2010 HHH1/2 Winery The Yilgarn caramel bouquet withfirm acid spine. $30 Cuvee Tasmania Nose like \"germinating Pemberton Blanc de hints of tinned corn. Chardonnay Pinot wheat\", according to Blancs 2011 HHH Long, dry and slightly Noir NV HHH one judge with toasty The nose is developed savoury palate with Roasted nutty aromas, characters dominating and toasty. The palate a rich complexity of some age evident. the palate. Fine acid is long and toasty with interesting flavours Complex, well-structured line. $35 marmalade notes. $35 supported by a great palate. Good fruit acid line. $80 persistence. $32 AUSTRALIAN Arras E J Carr Late SPARKLING Disgorged Tasmania VINTAGE $40+ Sparkling AUSTRALIAN 2002 HHHHH SPARKLING 14 TASTED \"Fabulous vibrant aged $30-$40 11 AWARDED wine,\" enthused one judge. \"It's layered and 12 TASTED Some great examples complex.\" Pistachio- 9 AWARDED here showing how far like nuttiness on the Australian winemakers nose with a melange of A solid class of varying have come with fig, toast and sautéed vintages. From 2013 sparkling wines. \"These mushroom-like flavours. and older you can see are not champagnes, $130 the benefits of age and just different and yeast development. certainly comparable to aged sparkling wines from anywhere,\" said one judge.70 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016



CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGCroser Vintage CHAMPAGNE Mumm Champagne Moet & Chandon Perrier Jouet GrandPiccadilly Valley ROSÉ Rosé NV HHH1/2 Imperial Champagne Champagne BrutPinot Noir Bright pink wine that's France Brut NV HHHHHChardonnay 7 TASTED light, elegant and crisp NV HHHHH Very light toastiness to2011 HHHH1/2 7 AWARDED and vibrant with sweet A great champagne; the nose with just theA nutty, nougat and Excellent group with strawberry aromas and rich, powerful and full- slightest hint of seatoasty array of aromas. great examples of rosé flavours. $87.99 flavoured with excellent spray. The powerfulNutty complexity follows champagnes. These are aged characters. Intense palate has a fine strongthrough onto the rich focussed on the pinot Perrier Jouet Blason toasty/yeasty aromas flavour line and a lovelymouthfilling palate. noir grape to give the Champagne Rosé and a well-focussed mushroomy richness.Some marmalade-like colour. \"There are two NV HHH1/2 complexity of strong $86.99sweetness and good styles - the youthful, Bright youthful red fruit flavours. $69.99 Champagne Canardacidity. $45.99 forward, red fruit-driven fragrances and pleasant Duchene CuvéeSinglefile Blanc ones and the bronze strawberry flavours with Besserat De Bellefon Leonie Greende Blancs complex aged styles.” a good back-up of lively Comte des Moines (Certified Organic)Great Southern acid tightness. $109.99 Epernay France Brut Champagne CuvéeChardonnay Besserat De Bellefon NV HHHHH NV HHHHH2010 HHHH Epernay France Brut Deutz France Rosé Great popcorn-like Great elegance to theBright zesty citrussy Rosé NV HHHHH NV HHH1/2 autolysis obvious on the nose with toast andbouquet with very Salmon pink hues with An elegant but very nose and full, rich palate oysters evident andpersistent and elegant pot pourri fragrances complex rosé showing rich with mushroom, some hints of cranberry-lime and lemon flavours and great caramel-like good bottle age passionfruit, vanilla like characters whichunderscored by fine autolysis. Palate is fresh development and musky and jasmine flower follow through to themineral-like acidity. $80 and lively - savoury and aromas and flavours. $115 characters wrapped in supple well-structuredTomich Wines Blanc complex with lovely firm acidity. $79 palate. $89de Noir Adelaide toasty aged flavours and Champagne Bollinger Special Deutz Classic FranceHills Pinot Noir \"squeaky\" acidity. $92 Jeeper Brut Grand Cuvee France Brut NV HHHH1/22009 HHHH Champagne Thiénot Champagne Rosé Champagne Light herbal-likeDelicate shades Champagne Rosé NV HHH NV HHHHH bouquet and a lean,of salmon here. NV HHHH1/2 Herbaceous aromas A very attractive buttery tight and beautifullySlightly closed rose- An aged bronzed with rose hip and tea mushroomy bouquet focussed palate withlike fragrances with champagne showing leaf notes which follow with hints of rose inky complexity, hintssome citrus. Pleasant toasty/brioche-like esters through onto the dry hip-like characters. of herbaceousness andstrawberries and cream and developed, complex palate. $75 The palate is lively and cumquat and quince-likepalate. $60 and savoury red fruit complex with loads fruit. $80Mount Avoca Lisa flavours with a fine acid Henri Giraud of interest and good Champagne ThiénotMarie Pyrenees backbone. $109 Rosé NV HHH amount of lively acidity. Champagne BrutBlanc de Blancs Rose petal fragrances $84.99 NV HHHH1/22012 HHH and nicely structured Floral perfumed aromasDelicate fresh citrus green palate with fennel with toasty layers andfragrances and a simple dominated flavours. $105 a rounded, slightly oily,light citrus-driven palate fresh and lively greenwith nutty nuances. $45 CHAMPAGNE apple flavoured palate.Heemskerk Tasmania UNDER $100 Nice secondary charactersChardonnay Pinot developing. $85Noir 2011 HHH 21 TASTED Henri Giraud EspritToasty nose with a vanilla- 20 AWARDED de Giraud Brutlike thread and a fine lean NV HHHH1/2line of flavours. $60 Wow! What a great The nose has anBird in Hand Nest consistent class of interesting integrationEgg Joy Adelaide superb bubbles. \"A great of musk and mint-likeHills Sparkling Pinot approachable group of aromas with a roastedNoir 2010 HHH complete wines across nut note. More of theLight citrus/marzipan a number of styles,\" said same on the persistentfragrances with more of one judge. \"Although the palate with its firm acidthe marzipan characters dosage varied across support. $85on the palate. $75 house styles the general comment was that they all had great balance.\"72 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

varietal tastingMumm Millesime Champagne Jeeper ChampagneChampagne Pinot Grand Assemblage Charpentier TerreNoir Chardonnay Champagne Brut d’Emotion Charly2006 HHHH1/2 NV HHHH sur Marne FranceThis champagne shows Interesting complexity Blanc de Noirsfabulous aged hues, of bark, moss, rose and NV HHH1/2it has a fine bead and strawberry-like aromas. Glacé fruit fragrancessmells of brown limes. Complex bready palate and a long and distinctiveIt is rich, buttery and that's strong, tight and palate with a light fennelcomplex in the mouth rich. $60 nuance and fine minerallyand has a certain Mumm Cordon acidity. $75elegance. $97.99 Rouge ChampagneVeuve Monsigny Brut NV HHHH Champagne JeeperChampagne Brut A full rounded Grande ReserveNV HHHH champagne with a cool ChardonnayHints of florals and mintiness and lovely Champagne Brutjasmine on the nose. secondary characters NV HHHGreat complexity to the developing. Great Nose described as aattractive toasty citrus weight and flavour musky teapot! Palatepalate. Has elegance profile. $64.99 somewhat dominated byand a good acid Champagne fennel characters. $70backbone. $24.99 Charpentier Terre d’Emotion Brut Besserat De Bellefon Besserat De Bellefon Champagne Vérité Charly sur Extra Comte des Epernay France Charpentier Terre Marne France Moines Epernay Blanc de Blancs d’Emotion Charly Brut NV HHHH France Brut NV HHHH sur Marne France A delicate floral NV HHHH Hints of marzipan on the Blanc de Blancs aromatic bouquet with Elegant minerally light toasty/herbaceous NV HHH a strong, complex and fragrances on the nose nose. Very big palate Herbaceous rose petal chunky palate that has with an interesting weight with flinty citrus fragrances follow big nutty marzipan-like solid steely primary flavours and piercing through to the relatively characters. $69 fruit palate layered with acidity. $98 simple palate. Good piercing acidity. $86 Champagne Canard acidity. $75 Champagne Jeeper Duchene Cuvée Extra Brut Naturelle Leonie Champagne Champagne Brut Brut NV HHH1/2 NV HHHH A light and elegant wine A strong herbal influence with a nose reminiscent on the nose and a very of fruit tingles. Palate interesting, full-on, has a marzipan-like palate that's complex complexity and firm and has a slightly oily acid. $75 texture. $95NASAA Organic Wine of the Year 2017 Awards Night THURSDAY 29 JUNE 2017 Adelaide Save the Date! More details early 2017 November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 73

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGCHAMPAGNE Henri Giraud Grand Deutz William Deutz Champagne Thiénot Henri Giraud CodeOVER $100 Cru Fute de Chene Millesime France Cuvée Stanislas Noir NV HHHH1/2 MV HHHHH Brut 2006 HHHHH Champagne Blanc A white Champagne8 TASTED A great wine with the A fuller, lower acid style de Blancs made from black grapes.8 AWARDED herbal toffee-like aromas that's long and very 2005 HHHHH Stunningly complex showing some oaky elegant with nice overall This golden wine that wine with excellentBeautiful wines! An notes. Solid complexity complexity. It has a smells of roasted length and balance. Niceoutstanding group to the persistent savoury lovely toasty toffee nose nuts and has almost a nuttiness to the noseonly separated by the palate with some great and some delicate spicy “sherrified” complexity and floral flavours withdifferent styles. All had acidity to back it up. $220 peach flavours. $280 to the elegantly layered hints of apples, peachessuperb aged characters. Champagne Deutz Amour de flinty palate with some and hazelnuts on a lean\"So much complexity, Philipponnat Grand Deutz Millesime nice secondary aged palate. $150yet also elegance,\" Blanc France France Brut characters. $199enthused one judge. Champagne 2006 HHHHH Henri Giraud 2007 HHHHH Lovely golden hints to HommageChampagne Canard A wine that has this bright wine that NV HHHH1/2Duchene Charles VII elegance, freshness and shows excellent bottle The nose is a mix ofChampagne Blanc complexity with loads development and earthy peach aromas withde Noirs NV HHHHH of lovely yeast autolysis mushroomy layers on herbaceous charactersFabulous toasty yeast on the complex nutty the nose and palate with and has a long leanautolysis dominates the nose. Lovely strawberry hints of peaches and herbaceous palate withnose and has a thread and cream palate. Fine high acidity. $325 hints of peaches andof minerally peach mousse. Lemony acidity. some cumquat notes.elements. The tight lean $145 $120palate has cumquat andgreen apple-like flavourprofile. $119 Whether it’s down the road or across the globe - we move food & beverages, worry free. With real global capability, an ever-intensifying network and aggressive growth targets, we are perfectly positioned to help our customers deliver increasing volumes of their products into the hands of their customers Air and Ocean Warehousing Transport • Airfreight • Pick and pack • Nationwide and • Seafreight metro • Import and • Hazardous substances • Full truck load export and intermodal • Customs • Inventory management • Specialised B2C clearance services • Perishables • Food grade • Tanks warehousing • Wharf cartage74 Wine AdWverIt JNanE20S16.TindAd T1 E November/December 2016 www.mainfreight.com 10/05/2016 9:58:52 AM

Situated near Denmark on the pristine South Coast of Western Australia Cellar Door & Function Centre Taste the wines, Walk the wildflower trails & enjoy the view! Peg, Peter and Anthony Buxton 1847 Redmond West Road, Denmark WA 6333 Telephone: (08) 9845 3031 Mobile: 0428 453 031 Email: [email protected]

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINLIMESTONE COASTCELEBRATING A FAMILY LIVE LIKE A LOCAL UNDER THE ARCHESAFFAIR IF you want a base to explore the vineyards LOOKING for somewhere with a differentTHE Redman family history in Coonawarra of Coonawarra but also want to have a vibe to stay? How about The Arches atdates back over 100 years and this year country break, then Camawald Coonawarra Allendale, a fully renovated church datingthe Redmans are celebrating the 50th Cottage B&B is in a garden setting that to 1866 that offers quirky boutique self-anniversary of winemaking under their is part of a working farm. The cottage is catering accommodation. The Archesown label. Bill Redman and his family situated on quiet Rocky Castle Rd, 2km is 18km south of Mount Gambier, withpurchased 16ha of vines in 1908 and from Riddoch Hwy, but away from any easy access to beaches, diving, golfingsold the grapes to help pay for the land. road noise. Camawald Cottage is set up and wineries. It offers a rural setting oneHe made his first wine in 1909 in very to accommodate one or two couples and street back from the main road through therudimentary conditions. In 1937, Owen is just 10 minutes north of Penola, with village. The complex consists of a mainRedman joined his father in the family its many cafes and eateries, shopping area of accommodation (sleeping up towinemaking business. They continued activities and the Mary MacKillop Centre. eight people with a two-night minimum)to sell their wine to other wineries but The regional centre of Mount Gambier is and a separate, yet linked, annexe thatthe reputation of their wines grew. The a 45-minute drive away and Bool Lagoon is available for couples for one-night1952 vintage saw the Redman family wetlands reserve and the world heritage stays. The main church interior featuresrelease a small amount of their own wine listed Naracoorte Caves are 20 minutes three bedrooms (one queen and one twinunder the Rouge Homme label, although away. The cottage has airconditioning, a downstairs and a double upstairs). A sofathey sold the winery and the label 13 lounge/dining area and a fully equipped bed on the mezzanine can sleep a furtheryears later. Owen Redman and his wife kitchen with a microwave and an oven, two people. The interior is modern chic,started the Redman Wines label in 1966 along with provisions for a full breakfast. with multi-function living areas includingand the business grew substantially. In There is a delightful deck on which to a flat-screen TV, lounge area, dining1982 his sons Bruce and Mal assumed enjoy a glass of wine and each room area and an outside entertainment areathe winemaking responsibilities and has an ensuite, free toiletries and a with barbecue as well as a kitchen withtoday Bruce’s son Dan and his younger hairdryer, and there is free wifi. After visiting full oven, microwave, dishwasher andbrother are fourth-generation vignerons. local cellar doors, guests can enjoy the breakfast bar. The view from the rear of theTake a look at their history by visiting the garden or enjoy the lawn tennis court. The garden is of a rural landscape. Prices startRedman cellar door 9am-5pm weekdays minimum stay is two nights. Camawald from $160 per night for a couple and $90and 11am-4pm weekends. It is at 14830 Coonawarra Cottage is at Rocky Castle for the annexe. The Arches of Allendale isRiddoch Hwy, Coonawarra; phone (08) Rd, Coonawarra; phone 0448 029 055 or at 26 Williams St, Central Allendale East;8736 3331 or visit www.redman.com.au. visitcamawaldcottage.com.au. visit archesofallendale.com.76 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

travelbriefsLOCAL FOOD FOCUS GATHER AROUND new tastes. His ethos is sustainability, low food miles and a minimal footprint.THE multi-award winning Barn Steakhouse WITH exposed beams and cosy ambience, “Honestly, for me it’s very much abouthas been the go-to destination in Mount Gather Food and Wine is a popular spot for searching out those new flavours, excitingGambier for aged steaks for almost 30 both locals and tourists visiting Robe during new tastes, delivering something you mayyears. The restaurant is the centrepiece of summer (but closed during winter). Located have never tasted before or even realisedthe Cleves family’s successful hospitality in Robe’s main street, Gather bills itself as was there to be eaten,” he says. “There’sventure just on the city fringes, which “the perfect place to unwind and enjoy the no need to look elsewhere when we havealso incorporates accommodation and a pleasures of the local region”. It is sited in so much to offer in our own backyard.” Thefunction centre. The Barn’s signature dish the old Omerod’s Woolstore, made from menu includes local flavours like Woakwineis Limestone Coast Hereford beef grilled sandstone and ships’ timber, and dates to Station certified-organic beef, Robe Dairyover Mallee coals, paired with home-grown 1853. The restaurant is a result of chef Tom labne and Robe lobster. The “Let Us Feedvegetables from the restaurant’s extensive Tilbury’s passion for “gathering” wild and You” menu costs $75, or $110 with matchingkitchen garden. “Our preference is for beef local ingredients – and he is helped in his wines, while the a la carte menu featuresthat is finished on grass, as this provides foraging adventure by his wife Sarah, who dishes like Coorong clams with potatoes andmeat with maximum flavour, just as nature was born and bred on the Limestone Coast. crispy saltbush, or Berkshire pork with roastintended,” says third-generation family Having travelled and lived in other “foodie” apple, charred onions, potatoes and applemember Kent Comley, a former marketing regions around Australia, the Tilburys sauce. For dessert, the “Robe Mess” starsmanager for Hollick Wines in Coonawarra, have gained experience in a number of wild muntrie berries, meringue, mulberryand the man responsible for the wine list. different cuisines and settings. They say gel, honeycomb and cream. Gather FoodBeef is aged on the premises for a minimum the Limestone Coast offers an abundance and Wine is at 38 Smillie St, Robe; visitof eight weeks in order to develop tenderness of produce, wine, and the ideal environmentand flavour, while the cellar contains 600-plus and people to bring their unique experience gatherfoodandwine.com.au. labels. “The majority of the wines come from together. Tilbury has worked at top winerythe Limestone Coast, including museum restaurants, including d’Arry’s Verandah in Top: Dropping the Beets entree.Coonawarra wines dating back to 1965,” McLaren Vale and Cullen Wines in Margaret Above left & right: Menu, homemade and locallysays Comley. “We are proud to say that the River, and prides himself on being able to sourced produce from Gather Food and Wine.wine list has won several awards.” find seasonal, local produce which creates Opposite page: Left: Daniel Redman of Redman Wines. Comley says promoting Limestone Coast Top right: Arches of Allendale exterior.produce has been a key platform of the Below right: Arches of Allendale interior.Barn’s success. “The focus on local produceis important and the paddock-to-platetraceability of our own herd is paramount,”he says. “The Limestone Coast location isalso important in that Mount Gambier is animportant stopover point for internationaland interstate tourists who travel the GreatSouthern Touring route and wish to taste thelocal produce. The wine list and selection ofLimestone Coast wines is an important pointof difference for the restaurant as well as theextensive selection of cellar-aged wines.Coonawarra has long been renowned as oneof Australia’s most important red wine regionsand the restaurant has become a destinationfor wine connoisseurs.” The Barn Steakhouse, Accommodationand Palais, 747 Glenelg River Rd, MountGambier; phone (08) 8726 9999 or visitbarn.com.au. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 77

115 TASTED 86 AWARDED LIMESTONE COASTA very good line-up of wines this year from the prestigious red wineregion. As expected cabernet and shiraz wines were strong, but don’tneglect the whites where sauvignon blanc, riesling and chardonnay alsothrew out some gems worth considering.SPARKLING Majella Minuet Norfolk Rise Norfolk Rise Hoggies Estate VBBAEULSYUTSE Coonawarra Vineyard Mt Benson Vineyard Mt Benson Coonawarra3 TASTED Sparkling Riesling Pinot Grigio Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon2 AWARDED NV HHH1/2 2016 HHH 2016 HHH1/2 Blanc 2015 HHH1/2One of each - a red and Crisp citrus-driven style A lightweight well-made Nose of freshly cut Lifted ripe tropicala white sparkling both with a slight bubblegum- grigio with lifted floral grass with an underlying bouquet with someoffering good drinking. like character on the aromatics and pleasant pungent-like character herbal touches and great nose and quite powerful fruity flavours. $16 and a bright and crunchy balance of fruit flavours.Majella Coonawarra hit of flavours. $30 palate. $16 Developing well. DrinkSparkling Shiraz Norfolk Rise soon. $14.992010 HHHH OTHER WHITE Vineyard ReserveBlack fruit aromas with VARIETALS Mt Benson Pinot Katnook Founder'sa hint of oak and similar Gris 2014 HHH Block Coonawarracharacters echoed on 4 TASTED Balanced wine with Sauvignon Blanca palate that has loads 3 AWARDED nutty notes to the nose 2015 HHH1/2of spicy fruit and a and good acid length on Obvious leesy/yeastygenerous finish. $30 The judges commented the palate with a hint of characters on the nose on the very nice varietal oak. $25 with a creamy lemony viognier along with a palate that has good couple of clean and crisp SAUVIGNON weight and texture. $22 gris/grigios. BLANC Patrick of Giggling Goose 10 TASTED Coonawarra Estate Wines Single 8 AWARDED Coonawarra Vineyard Padthaway Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2015 HHHH A consistent group 2015 HHH1/2 Aromas of rose showing plenty of A well-made wine petals with hints of variety across both centred around citrus-like mushrooms. The skin contact maturation characters with underlying refreshing palate offers a and the spectrums of tropical notes and crunchy good mouthful of citrus ripeness. \"A good class crisp acid. $25 flavours and a crisp of fresh, well-handled finish. $18 fruit wines,\" said one judge.78 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

regional tastingJack Estate M-R Patrick of Brand's Laira OTHER REDSeries South Eastern Coonawarra Estate Foundation VARIETALS &Australia Sauvignon Wrattonbully Coonawarra BLENDSBlanc 2016 HHH Coonawarra Riesling ChardonnayTropical fruit bouquet 2015 HHH 2014 HHHH 6 TASTEDand a lighter style palate A lean, restrained, old A very good, well- 3 AWARDEDlayered with lemon and school style of riesling balanced wine with lovelytropical fruit flavours. where lemon is king! $25 citrussy fruit showing Mainly merlots here$12 nectarine notes and showing good mid- Koonara Wines supported by some very weight fruit overall withJip Jip Rocks Sofiel's Gift Mt attractive oak. $22.99 one well-made 'primary'Padthaway Gambier Riesling fruit blend.Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH DiGiorgio Family2016 HHH Lemony bouquet and Wines Lucindale Young BruteA pleasant drink full of very lemony palate Limestone Coast Wrattonbully Redtropical fruit characters with confronting, but Chardonnay Blend 2015 HHHHwith herbal notes. Just very good, acidity. 2016 HHH A good steady medium-needs time to open up. Time! $20 \"Like a pleasant young bodied wine offering$20.95 Chablis.\" Peach and great quaffing with CHARDONNAY melon aromas and well- bright, fresh dark berryGiggling Goose balanced palate. $18 fruit and just a hintWines Single 7 TASTED of sweet mocha oak.Vineyard Padthaway Blok Estate 6 AWARDED Jip Jip Rocks $16.99Sauvignon Blanc Coonawarra Riesling Padthaway2015 HHH 2014 HHHH1/2 Solid consistent class Chardonnay Norfolk Rise\"A well-executed wine.\" \"A wine with style, from the oaked to the 2016 HHH Vineyard Mt BensonLovely fruity freshness poise, personality and fresh unoaked styles. Citrussy, bouquet and Merlot 2015 HHHon the nose and zingy energy,\" according to \"Well made examples of tight lemon palate with Nose and palate showvarietal palate. $18 one judge! The lemon cool climate, moderate nice freshness and a suggestion of rhubarb and citrus-like aromas weight, chardonnays crunchy acidity. $20.95 and summer berriesPatrick of and flavours are here, with good acid with supporting oak.Coonawarra seamlessly balanced by balance,\" commented Yours Truly VBBAEULSYUTSE $16Mother of Pearl lively acidity. $19.50 one judge. LimestoneWrattonbully Koonara Wines Coast Chardonnay LeconfieldCoonawarra Sofiel's Gift Mt Jack Estate 2014 HHH Coonawarra MerlotSauvignon Blanc Gambier Riesling Coonawarra Shy nose starting 2014 HHH2015 HHH 2010 HHHH Chardonnay to show some A lifted dusty nose andAn elegant style with A golden wine starting 2014 HHHH development. Palate a soft, plush, red fruitbright citrus elements, to evolve into 'middle A pleasant wine has buttery secondary palate with loads ofhints of tropical fruit and age' with orange offering good drinking characters. $9 tannins. $26great texture. $19 blossom-like aromas and with sweet up-front an intense concentration peachy varietal fruit and Morambro CreekRIESLING of lime flavours. $20 plenty of oak but all in Padthaway Koonara Wines A seamless balance. $22 Chardonnay7 TASTED Song For Alice Mt 2014 HHH5 AWARDED Gambier Riesling A pleasant well-balanced 2015 HHH1/2 wine with zesty lemonA very interesting group Quite a flinty nose with fruit and fine, well-with the best showing a lovely floral citrus handled, oak. $34.95purity of varietal fruit lift and an elegantwith continuity from the lime juice palatenose to the mouthfeel. underscored by some zingy acidity. $20JUDGES Sandrine Gimon Daniel Redman Dave Matthews Rymill Coonawarra Senior Winemaker, Redman Formerly Winemaker Winemaker since 2008. Wines. Judged at Rosemount and Previously travelled at the Limestone Boar’s Rock and extensively, working in Coast wine show Group Winemaker for Romania, Swan Valley and Royal Adelaide. Treasury Wine Estates. Western Australia, Vintaged at Charles Vintages in Tuscany and Languedoc Roussillon and Melton, Barossa and California. Judged in Pomerol. Completed her Tahbilk, Nagambie Australia and overseas. wine making internship and overseas at Currently with Francois at Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Sonoma Valley (US) Freres group of in Champagne. and Okanogan Valley cooperages. (Canada). November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 79

LIMESTONE COAST PINOT NOIR Patrick of Coonawarra Mother 6 TASTED of Pearl Coonawarra 2 AWARDED Wrattonbully Cabernet Merlot A difficult group with 2013 HHH some overcooked fruit Earthy barnyardy aromas or has tannins that were with an elegant well- too drying. But there integrated palate; nice were a couple that savouriness. $19 showed the way to go. CABERNET Koonara Wines Cape SAUVIGNON Banks Mt Gambier 2015-2014 Pinot Noir 2013 HHHH 17 TASTED Nice example of a 14 AWARDED powerful savoury style of pinot with lovely Majella The Musician Excellent class which we strawberry/cherry-like Coonawarra expect from cabernet fruit. Good oak influence Cabernet Shiraz sauvignon from the and acidity. $24.95 2014 HHHH region. \"Lots of vibrant Nose is a lovely mix of young wines here Norfolk Rise blackcurrant and vanilla that will reward with Vineyard Mt Benson oak with bright red fruit patience,\" said one Pinot Noir flavours, supporting judge. \"They demand 2015 HHH oak with soft velvety some cellaring for Nose of berries and tannins. $18 maximum pleasure.\" cherries and clean Brand's Laira balanced flavours. Foundation Mr Riggs Outpost \"Perfect for a Spring Coonawarra Coonawarra evening!\" $16 Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH1/2 2014 HHHHH CABERNET Medium-bodied wine A nose that's all cassis BLENDS with a good fruit base, and raspberries. The spicy cedary oak and palate is dark and 6 TASTED some slightly grippy complex with lovely fruit, 5 AWARDED tannins. $22.99 super tannins and the Majella The Malleea oak kept nicely in check. A small solid class Coonawarra Lovely now but will be with what the judges Cabernet Sauvignon great with cellaring. said was, \"Lovely fruit Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 and well-made wines\". A very stylish acid-driven 5+ $24 \"Good fruit and oak wine with seamlessly management,\" said one. integrated fruit, oak and Jip Jip Rocks \"The different flavours fine grained tannins. $80 Padthaway Cabernet were influenced by oak Andrew Peace Sauvignon choices but all of these Wines Australia 2014 HHHH1/2 offered longevity.\" Felix Barrel Reserve Lifted fruity bouquet Wrattonbully with a note of Cabernet Shiraz smokiness. Nicely 2015 HHH rounded dark fruit Dark red wine with palate that has lovely juicy sweet cherry fruit, freshness with tobacco- generous oak and long like complexity and tannins. $28 some attractive earthy characters. $20.95 Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHHH1/2 A contemporary, sweeter, fruit-driven style of cabernet with tobacco and cocoa-like aromas and a big juicy palate; amalgam of vanilla,McLAREN VALE ADELAIDE HILLS WATERVALE chocolate, mint andP (08) 8323 8830 | leconfieldwines.com berries. 5+ $3580 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

regional tastingThe Tutor VBBAEULSYUTSE Majella Coonawarra570 Vines Cabernet SauvignonCoonawarra 2014 HHH1/2Cabernet Sauvignon Lifted oak dominated2014 HHHH aromas with lovelyEarthy cassis fruit nose varietal fruit purity onand nicely integrated the long classy palatesavoury palate with with super firm tannins.a hint of vanilla androunded tannins. 3-5 $35\"Perfect with a steak.\" Hollick Estates$14 OV Coonawarra Cabernet SauvignonBerton Vineyards 2014 HHH1/2Reserve Coonawarra A powerful monster of aCabernet Sauvignon wine with great savoury2014 HHHH fruit characters. It has aPleasant cassis aromas lifted nose and is satinwith a light minty lift and smooth in the mouth.a dark brooding red fruitpalate that has huge 5+ $36tannins and marked Barristers Blockacidity. 5+ $17 Wrattonbully Cabernet SauvignonPicarus Wrattonbully 2014 HHH1/2Cabernet Sauvignon Bright Ribena-like2015 HHH1/2 bouquet and a big tannicA lovely varietal palate that shows plentydescribed as being, \"On of power - it just needsthe dark side of things\", time to integrate. $38with savoury toastiness Andrew Peaceand mocha oak. Wines Winemaker's Choice Wrattonbully 3-5 $25.99 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHNorfolk Rise Smoky oak influence on 93Vineyard Mt Benson the nose and a youthfulCabernet Sauvignon silky smooth savoury2014 HHH1/2 palate. $18An elegant savoury style Westmere Winesthat has stewed red Barbs Blockfruit characters with an Limestone Coastunderlay of capsicum Cabernet Sauvignonand high level of acidity. 2014 HHH$16 Sweet sour characters on both the nose andNorfolk Rise palate with a hint of mintVineyard Reserve and drying tannins. $25Mt Benson CabernetSauvignon2014 HHH1/2A riper style with dustycassis fruit, cedary oak,powerful and lively acidityand huge tannins. Give ittime. 5+ $25Bowen EstateCoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon2014 HHH1/2A dark lifted cassisnose and dark berryflavours with cedary oak,minerally acid and somewell framed tannins. 3-5 $33 November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 81

LIMESTONE COAST CABERNET Reschke Bos SAUVIGNON Coonawarra 2013 & OLDER Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHH 19 TASTED Oak dominates the nose and has a slight hint of 14 AWARDED mint. A complex aged palate that still has someyouBringing A highly rated class of fruit sweetness with excellent wines that are firm tannins. $42.50 a world of holding up well. Strong Katnook Estateopportunity ageing potential for the Coonawarra ‘13s with other very Cabernet SauvignonThe market for Australian made good examples from 2013 HHH1/2organic products is world-wide the other vintages. \"The A well-made, seamlesslyand growing. wines were showing balanced, cabernet with excellent balance for dark berry fruit, well- NCO is your opportunity to access their fruit weight,\" noted handled oak and drying this $80 billion certified organic one judge. tannins. $40 food market. Certify with NCO and join over Penola Estate VBBAEULSYUTSE Patrick of Kopparossa Estate 17,000 successful certified organic Coonawarra Coonawarra Estate Vintage Reserve farmers and operators. Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Coonawarra Gain access to all major domestic 2013 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon and international organic markets. Nicely developing, well- 2013 HHHH 2012 HHH1/2 Australia, China, USA, EU, Japan, rounded cabernet with Concentrated mintiness Fragrant chocolaty Canada, and many more generosity, intensity to the nose. Juicy aromas and has what NCO Organic – Australia’s premier and length of earthy primary fruit on an oak- one judge described certified organic label. chocolaty aromas and dominated palate with as, \"Big bubbly tannins beautifully balanced ripe a good tannin profile in to complement lovely Celebrating fruit flavours. Tannins support. $29 primary fruit\". $95 are present but subtle. Punters Corner Blok Estate 30 YEARS $13 Reserve Coonawarra Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon AND 15 MILLION HECTARES Redman Coonawarra 2013 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 CERTIFIED UNDER NCO ORGANIC Cabernet Sauvignon Savoury cabernet dense Lifted savoury tobacco 2013 HHHH1/2 with ripe sweet varietal bouquet and lovely National Association for Smells of plums and fruit characters layered primary fruit palate Sustainable Agriculture Australia olives with a menthol with some chocolaty with a subtle tannin touch. Lovely firm palate notes and supported by influence and a soft Call: o8 8370 8455 with a continuous flow big drying tannins. $32 sweet finish. $30 Email: [email protected] of sweet fruit flavours Pepper Tree layered with earthy/ Wines Block 21A www.nasaa.com.au cedary characters. Single Vineyard Wrattonbully 3-5 $34 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHHH Hollick Estates A very dark, very Ravenswood dense, very big wine Coonawarra with a berry bouquet, Cabernet Sauvignon lovely intense cassis 2013 HHHH1/2 fruit flavours and firm A beautifully balanced tannins. Needs time. wine that's looking good right now! It has 5+ $60 stylish oak, intense dark Casella Limited floral fruit and a nice Release Limestone line of slightly drying Coast Cabernet tannins. $77 Sauvignon 2012 HHHH Jack Estate More austere style of Coonawarra cabernet but well-made Cabernet Sauvignon and still showing plenty 2013 HHHH of lively sweet cassis Nose is earthy, minty fruit. Has toasty oak and and fruity. Lovely palate chunky tannins. $45 weight with dark berry fruit, smoky oak, some spices and well-rounded tannins. $2582 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

regional tasting SHIRAZ Penola Estate VBBAEULSYUTSE 2015-2014 Coonawarra Shiraz 17 TASTED 2014 HHHH1/2 14 AWARDED Simple floral aromas with a delicate violet-like Solid dependable class lift. Some lovely acidity with a variety of styles on the palate and fine ranging from up-front tannins that all supports fruit styles to the heavier the spicy peppery extracted ones. \"Some varietal fruit. $13 had American oak, others had French oak Motique characters. All this offers Limestone a variety of choices for Coast Shiraz VBBAEULSYUTSE consumers,\" said one judge. 2014 HHHH A sound wine with a red berry bouquet and sweet red fruit flavours layered with vanilla oak and laced with nice spicy notes. $9Kopparossa EstateCoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon2008 HHHEarthy barnyard-likecharacters on the noseand a toasty amalgamof sweet/savouryflavours. $30Reschke EmpyreanCoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon2008 HHHBalanced and still fullof life with sweet figand tar-like charactersand soft tannins insupport. $150SHIRAZ Bowen Estate Giggling GooseBLENDS Coonawarra Shiraz Wines Single 2014 HHHHH Vineyard Padthaway3 TASTED A massive wine with Shiraz 2014 HHHH1 AWARDED heaps of potential! A lovely balanced The lifted spicy aromas fruit-driven wine thatJust one wine worth have a 'crushed ant'-like should, according to thereviewing here. character. A silky soft judges, evolve nicely. integration of berries, Bright berry aromasJip Jip Rocks toast and tar on the and redcurrant flavours.Padthaway Shiraz palate and some great $19.95Cabernet 2015 HHH tannins. $33Dark and chocolaty onthe nose and medium-bodied palate with goodmouthful of nice up-frontfruit. $20.95 November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 83

LIMESTONE COAST Katnook Founder's Block Coonawarra Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 A nicely rounded wine with some marked acidity. The fresh plum fruit elements are nicely underscored by the oak. $25ORGANICALLY Ralph Fowler Wines CERTIFIED Mt Benson Shiraz COMPOST 2015 HHH1/2 A well-balanced for your vineyard young shiraz that exhibits very lifted BLEND 437TM - sweet berry fruit and has what nature nice toasty complexity. takes too long to 3-5 $30 give your soils - Norfolk Rise Koonara Wines Kopparossa Estate ask us how! Vineyard Reserve Angel's Peak Vintage Reserve Mt Benson Shiraz Coonawarra Shiraz Coonawarra Shiraz Our organic composts 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH1/2 2012 HHHHH and mulches are able An acid-driven wine The integration of oak Delightful hints of to be TAILORED to suit with powerful dark and fruit on the nose violet-like fragrances your needs with focus works well. \"Tastes like on the dark fruit nose. on soil improvement & a sweet plum pudding,\" The palate is rich and soil health with vital thought one judge. $25 complex and drinking beautifully right now. It nutrients while earthy aromas and Jacobs Creek has sweet black cherry increasing the a big mouthful of Reserve Limestone flavours, sweet oak and protection against peppery fruit flavours Coast Shiraz savoury notes. $95 moisture loss and with lots of grainy 2015 HHH Brand's Laira weed invasion. tannins. 3-5 $25 A young fresh and juicy Foundation wine with bright red Coonawarra Shirazbring your Majella Coonawarra fruit, hints of violets 2013 HHHH1/2soil to life Shiraz 2014 HHHH and chewy tannins. Lovely nose; dark and \"Bright and joyful,\" said $17.99 chocolaty with a lift of Call us today on 8556 5295 one judge. \"A Cherry violets and with more of [email protected] Ripe style,\" said another. Picarus Wrattonbully those violet characters www.peatssoil.com.au \"Some will rave about Shiraz 2015 HHH appearing on the soft this wine.\" It’s stylish, Light oak influence on spicy red berry palate. It round and sweet. $30 the nose which is more has complexity, weight and richness. $22.99 Norfolk Rise obvious on the dark berry Morambro Creek Vineyard Mt Benson palate. 3-5 $25.99 Padthaway Shiraz Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 2013 HHHH1/2 A lovely lift of spice and SHIRAZ Sweet oak dominates pepper on the dark fruit 2013 & OLDER this wine for now but nose. The fresh high acid there is some pretty palate has sweet bright 10 TASTED dense solid fruit pushing berry flavours. $16 through. A generous 9 AWARDED layered wine that needs more time in the cellar. Andrew Peace Wines Excellent group of $34.95 Winemaker's Choice lovely vibrant, mid- Wrattonbully Shiraz weight fruit wines 2015 HHH1/2 with fine grain tannins Fresh and fruity aromas showing winemaking and a seamlessly finesse. \"An easy class integrated, well- to judge showing balanced, palate. It has appropriate characters bright fruit, good oak and and absolutely no faults,\" soft tannins. $18 concluded one of the judging panel. Jip Jip Rocks Padthaway Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 Spicy notes to the fruit- driven nose. The palate has obvious weight, power and tannins. Good cellaring potential. 5+ $20.9584 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

Hollick Estates Yours Truly Mt VBBAEULSYUTSE regional tastingWilgha Coonawarra Benson ShirazShiraz 2013 HHHH the food.2013 HHHH1/2 A lovely wine; an the wine.A big wine that has excellent example of the experience.lovely floral fruit shiraz. Has spicy aromasfragrances. Powerful and a palate dense withoak and tannin influence spicy berry fruit, vanillaon the silky smooth oak and grippy tannins.palate create tarry, fig $9and smoked meat-likeflavours. $54 Redman Coonawarra Shiraz 2012 HHHH Slight sweet/sour notes to the nose. Great palate length with the fruit a little smothered by oak but a great wine drinking well now. $22 Blok Estate Coonawarra Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 A soft, savoury and nicely rounded wine that's at its peak now. Nice blend of sweet tar and fig-like characters. $30Kopparossa Estate Emperors MudCoonawarra Shiraz Limestone Coast2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHQuite a flinty character A somewhat \"shy\"to the nose and it's all medium-bodied shirazchocolaty and plum-like but has good sweet/in the mouth with hints spicy fruit lurkingof figs and nuts, some beneath. $15lovely soft tannins andsweet toasty oak. $30 STAR RATINGS Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 135 -137. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under.For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 85

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHUNTER VALLEYA ‘COMPLETE’ EXPERIENCE NEW DOORS Hotel and Claridges Hotel, and then was the executive chef at Level 41 and TheLOOKING for a complete cellar door THE newest cellar door in the Hunter is the Establishment in Sydney. He says his foodexperience? Not only does Bimbadgen home of one of the region’s most innovative beliefs are “based on simple, fresh, localEstate offer the chance for a behind-the- winemakers - Usher Tinkler. Tinkler and his and seasonal produce”. Expect startersscenes winery peek, it also has a luxury wife Ebony have transformed an old wooden like house-smoked salmon with wasabirestaurant experience and the chance church on McDonald’s Rd, built in 1905, yoghurt, radish and sprout salad, andto show off local wildlife to overseas into the hippest of tasting facilities, where duck prosciutto with baby leaves, whitevisitors. The Bimbadgen winery is set up visitors can match Usher Tinkler Wines and peach, marinated fetta and mains includingso visitors can use walkways to look down whiskies with a selection of cold meats from spice-crusted lamb rack, ragout of barley,and see what is happening in the winery, a salumi bar along with artisan cheeses. caramelised onion, and Hiramasa kingfishand there is a large tasting facility offering “We’ve created an energetic and sociable supreme, mussels, tomato and basil broth.the chance to try some of winemaker environment in which to enjoy our wines,” High teas are also available by request.Rauri Donkin’s experimental wines (using says Usher Tinkler. “While our wines are Hunters Quarter is at 576 De Beyers Rd,varieties like vermentino and viognier). A avant-garde, we still only use grapes from Pokolbin; phone (02) 4998 7776 or visitwalk in the vineyards in the morning or our own family estate in Pokolbin and believe huntersquarter.com. It is open Thursday-late afternoon will often yield sightings of in a 100 per cent Hunter Valley production, Sunday noon-3.30pm for lunch andmobs of kangaroos (a treat for tourists), paying homage to our rich heritage. Our Thursday-Monday 6pm until late (exceptwhile the on-site Esca restaurant features approach to wine tasting incorporates the Sundays).magnificent views and innovative food food and wine lifestyle because, let’s face it,from chef Michal Blank. Think dishes like wine is made better with food and friends.” MODEL RESTAURANTslow-cooked duck breast with parsnip, There is a record player spinning LPs andmacadamia, tamarillo, bitter leaves and a chilled vibe. The cellar door is at 97 IS that global supermodel Miranda Kerrgame jus; Murray River cod with lentils or McDonald’s Rd, Pokolbin, and is open seven sitting over there in the corner? It mightperhaps pan-roasted spatchcock with confit days 10am-5pm. Visit ushertinklerwines. well be because Kerr’s brother and otherleg, Jerusalem artichoke, gnocchi and cos com. Another new cellar door over the past family members are behind the Nanna Kerr’slettuce. Bimbadgen is at 790 McDonalds 12 months is the Andrew Thomas Wines Kitchen restaurant on Pokolbin MountainsRd, Pokolbin; phone (02) 4998 4600 or visit facility in the Tuscany Estate complex on Rd. The eatery is family friendly and offersbimbadgen.com.au. Hermitage Rd. Here it is all about the wine, mostly organic and home-made food. Light with Thomas a renowned specialist in shiraz meals and sweet treats are served from and semillon who has previously shared 10am until 5pm Thursday to Monday and tasting facilities with other winemakers. dinners are a five- or seven-course “informal “As far as I’m concerned, the Hunter Valley degustation” on the same days (both can wine brand has never been stronger,” he be served with matching wines). Think said. “There has been renewed interest in dishes like kale and corn fritters (vegan), the market place and a refocus on wine porcini mushroom arancini with beetroot quality from Hunter Valley winemakers.” Visit aioli, grilled cauliflower with heirloom carrots thomaswines.com.au. and almonds (vegan), and crispy pork belly with home-made kimchi and greens. The LOCAL FOOD FOCUS Kerrs are originally from the country town of Gunnedah, which might explain why dinners THE Hunter has a new dining destination start at 6pm and last orders are at 7.30pm. in Hunters Quarter (HQ), a relaxed spot overlooking the Cockfighters Ghost Nanna Kerr's Kitchen is at 16 Pokolbin Vineyard. Chef Brian Duncan has worked Mountains Rd, Pokolbin; phone (02) at two London icons — the Dorchester 4998 7333 or 0427 679 887, or visit nannakerrskitchen.com.au.86 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

travelbriefsVERMOUTH ‘PERFECTION’ that gives that sense of being transported into diningrestaurant.Sustainablyfarmedproduce your own little oasis,” says Natale. “With the is targeted for the restaurant and bar, withNOT only is the Margan cellar door and Sebel Kirkton Park’s design, we were really 30 per cent of menu items sourced from therestaurant one of the Hunter’s biggest gourmet careful to make sure the rooms were not hotel’s 28ha grounds and 50 per cent fromdraw cards, it’s also one of only a handful of ‘cookie-cutter rooms’ — we really wanted to local partners/farmers. The wine list has beenplaces you’ll find the new Margan vermouth create that sense of occasion by heightening curated by 2016 Hunter Valley Winemaker of— a unique winemaking father and barman the guests' overall experience. The overall the Year Liz Silkman, chief winemaker from Firstson collaboration. With 40 years of winemaking design is a carefully planned combination of Creek Wines. “It is exciting to see the Sebelexperience making premium Hunter Valley patterns, with whites and blues that link back Kirkton Park embark on a new chapter withsemillon, Andrew Margan sat down with his to the common areas of the hotel. It’s very such an impressive transformation, setting abarman son Ollie and decided the perfect layered and it’s very decadent. It transports new benchmark for hospitality in the Huntervermouth could be made from the semillon you to somewhere very much unlike your Valley region,” said general manager Belindagrape as a base, using home-grown herbs own bedroom — and that’s part of the fun of Fitzgerald. Kirkton Park is named after the firstand spices for the aromatics. The palate of the a hotel stay.” In addition to the guest room vines established in the area in the mid 1800svermouth needed balance between bitterness makeovers, the Sebel Kirkton Park has also by James Busby. The undulating retreat boastsand aromatics that allowed it to sit perfectly in updated its lobby, lounge bar and restaurant. tennis courts, a billiards room, an on-sitea Negroni cocktail or be consumed just with Rooms feature uninterrupted views across the Grecian-style pool house with indoor heatedice. The end result is the first varietal, regional, gardens, or highlight the Brokenback Ranges. pool, sauna and spa, and a gymnasium. Roomvintage vermouth made from Hunter Valley Striking modern furnishings from Natale’s rates start from $179 per room per night. Tosemillon. The Margans decided the way of Hudson furniture collection and Axminster book, visit www.accorhotels.com. making an interesting Negroni is to use a drier wool carpets add a welcoming ambience.style vermouth pairedwithalessaromaticgin. The Epoche Lounge Bar has been revamped Above left: Margan Vermouth.“It’s been an interesting project as we have and features an outdoor pizza oven and deck Above right: Sebel Kirkton Park interiors.built this great vermouth from the ground up,” area, while Locavore Dining is a new-look finesays Andrew Margan. Of the 22 herbs and Opposite page:spices used, the majority of fresh ingredients Left: Winemaker Rauri Donkin from Bimbadgen Estate.were sourced from the Margan gardens. For Top: Usher Tinkler Wines cellar door.details see www.margan.com.au.FROM QUAINT TO CHICLONG-time hotel favourite the Sebel KirktonPark Hunter Valley has undergone a multi-million dollar transformation. Leading interiordesigner Greg Natale has guided therefurbishment which has seen the resortconverted from quaint country manor to 21st-century chic. All 70 guest rooms and interiorpublicspaceshavebeenrejuvenatedtocreatewhat the designer describes as “combiningclassic country heritage character withcontemporary elegance”. The glass-domedceiling in the main hall has become an atriumarea and meeting point with a custom-builtcircular bench seat. “There is nothing betterthan arriving at a luxurious hotel room or suite November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 87

HUNTER VALLEY79 TASTED61 AWARDEDHUNTER VALLEYA nice selection of Hunter and Northern Regions wines with Topper's MountainAustralia’s own yardstick white, semillon, standing out as expected. Barrel Ferment NewHunter reds also offer a great mid-weight counterpoint to other England Sauvignonstate’s regions, described as “great drinks” by one judge. Blanc 2013 HHH A creamy and complex food wine with lashings of very seductive oak and subtle hints of fruit. $30SPARKLING Tempus Two Copper SEMILLON Series Hunter Valley1 TASTED Verdelho 2016 HHH 19 TASTED1 AWARDED A tropical fruit nose and 15 AWARDED simple palate with goodThe only wine in the fruity flavours shining A very strong class.class but as one judge through. 3-5 $25 \"Vintage variations givesaid, \"It's a good drink\". the results here,\" said Two Rivers Hidden one judge. \"It is almost Pokolbin Estate PhilBlueberry Hill Wines Hive Hunter Valley a crime to show a Swannell HunterRose de Noir Hunter Verdelho 2016 HHH young semillon,\" said Valley SemillonValley Pinot Noir Lifted musky bouquet one judge, \"When age 2009 HHHHHRosé 2016 HHH and a crisp flinty is such a big factor The nose is a complexitySweet lifted strawberry palate with delicate in producing quality. of toasty, savoury andand cream-like aromas fruit salad flavours. Semillon is such a spicy characters withwith pretty fruit on a brilliant wine for ageing\". a luscious, beautifullyrefreshing palate. $35 3-5 $16 aged palate that has Tyrrell's Wines layers of flavours andOTHER Blueberry Hill Stevens Single great acidity. \"Wow,\" wasDRY WHITE Wines Hunter Valley Vineyard Hunter one comment! $40VARIETALS Sauvignon Blanc Valley Semillon 2016 HHH 2011 HHHHH9 TASTED Lifted estery floral A classic Hunter6 AWARDED fragrances with fresh semillon drinking and delicate tropical fruit beautifully now butOne standout wine with Pokolbin Estate flavours. 5+ $25 has years of cellaringa few others making Hunter Valley potential ahead of it.the grade. \"Verdelho is a Riesling Topper's Mountain An awesome palatestalwart and survivor of 2014 HHHH1/2 New England offering a huge whack ofthe industry with reliable A very well-made wine Sauvignon Blanc developed toasty citrusup-front fruit,\" noted one with delicate lifted lime 2013 HHH flavours. $35judge. aromas and floral hints. A lively sweet fruit style Citrussy palate has with refreshing acidity mandarin peel elements. and hints of European- Slightly oily mid-palate like characters. $30 and lovely fresh acidity. 5+ $25JUDGES Peter Hall Adrian Lockhart Scott McWilliam Winemaker for Commercial Trading Senior winemaker and McGuigan Simeon Manager for the brand ambassasor for Wines. 24 years’ Hardy Wine Company. McWilliams Wines. Vintaged winemaking Formerly senior in the Riverina, Hunter Valley, experience with winemaker for Margaret River, Bordeaux four years as a Haselgrove Wines Beaujolais, Napa, Sonoma Hunter Valley wine and for Briar Ridge and Central Valley (US). Judge show judge. Vineyard in the at Mundus Vini (Germany) Hunter Valley. and Adelaide, Sydney, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Hunter Valley.88 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

regional tasting Midnight's Promise Saddler's Creek Unwooded Hunter Ryan's Reserve Valley Semillon Stephanie's 2015 HHH Vineyard Hunter A very crisp lean and Valley Chardonnay youthful semillon with 2015 HHH1/2 slightly green lifted A subdued nose with notes and a crunchy subtle musky notes with structure. $18 a long, rich and slightly oily, full-bodied varietal RidgeView palate. 3-5 $36 Generations Reserve Single Vineyard Vinden Estate Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Semillon 2015 HHH Chardonnay A classic young Hunter 2015 HHH semillon with a long Peachy/tropical bouquet future. Flinty nose and with lifted oaky notes concentrated flavours. $25 which is echoed on the slightly fruity palate. Cockfighter's Ghost Reserve Hunter 3-5 $26 Valley Semillon Tyrrell's Wines 2015 HHH Hunter ValleyMcGuigan Bin Midnight's Promise Lemon and lime bouquet Tempus Two Hunter ChardonnaySeries 9000 Hunter Unwooded Hunter with a very lively citrus Valley Chardonnay 2015 HHHValley Semillon Valley Semillon palate and mouth- 2015 HHHH1/2 Perfumed oak2016 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH watering acidity. $30 A huge generously dominated the nose.Refreshing flinty nose Delicate yet complex flavoured chardonnay. Palate is bright andwith a perfumed lift and aromas with a silky Nice spicy oak lift to the balanced with tropicala very unctuous and smooth palate showing Pokolbin Estate Ken powerful fruit aromas fruit flavours.mouth-watering citrussy excellent length of fruit Bray Hunter Valley with more of that spicypalate with vibrant fruit well-balanced by some Semillon 2011 HHH oak threaded through 5+ $25 Developed honeyedflavours and good length great acidity. 5+ aromas and an aged the pungent citrus Two Rivers Reserveof juicy acidity. 5+ $18 toasty palate with hints of flavours. 5+ $35 Hunter Valley$11.50 Chardonnay Saddler's Creek botrytis. At its peak. $25 McGuigan Personal 2015 HHHSaddler's Creek Classic Hunter Reserve Blackberry Lots of spicy oak hereRyan's Reserve Valley Semillon CHARDONNAY Vineyard Hunter but has lively fruit toHunter Valley 2014 HHH1/2 Valley Chardonnay match. The nose isSemillon Flinty and biscuity on the 14 TASTED 2015 HHHH lifted; the palate big2014 HHHH1/2 nose with an \"awesome\", Smells of honeysuckle and juicy. $26 10 AWARDEDLovely lifted varietal very youthful and full- with some subtlebouquet of citrus and flavoured palate. Slightly A mixed group. \"Some tropical notes. The palatelemongrass with a touch oily texture. 5+ $26 is soft, light and simple Cockfighter's Ghostof toastiness. Long were more dry whites and full of flavour with Reserve Hunterrich citrus flavours with McGuigan The Short in character rather than nice crunchy acidity. Valley Chardonnay List Hunter Valley 2015 HHHexcellent acidity. \"A Semillon 2016 HHH varietal chardonnays,\" 5+ $60 Dry, medium weightgreat semillon,\" said one Lifted aromatic citrus and still closed withjudge. 5+ $32 nose with a very delicate suggested one judge. Tyrrell's Wines light green apple juicy citrus palate and \"No great faults here Vat 47 Hunter Valley characters and subtlePoole's Rock Single zesty acidity. $30 but more definition is Chardonnay oak. 5+ $30Vineyard Hunter required.\" \"Here we 2012 HHHHValley Semillon saw a diverse range of The nose is still very2011 HHHH1/2 Two Rivers Stone's styles with many being tight and closed with RidgeViewA complex nose with Throw Hunter Valley very age worthy,\" said some oak showing Impressions Singlea delicate lift of citrus Semillon 2016 HHH another. through. The long palate Vineyard Hunterblossom. Amazing Hints of lemon sherbet- is fresh, balanced and Valley Chardonnayflavour intensity on the like aromas and delicate citrussy. 3-5 $75 2013 HHHpalate, crisp acidity and lime and lemongrass Subtle tropical aromasgreat complexity of flavours. Time! 5+ Saddler's Creek and a light tight palate.secondary characters $20 Reserve Hunter \"Has potential to ageevolving. $45 Valley Chardonnay into a classic.\" Vinden Estate Single 2015 HHH1/2 Vineyard Reserve Subtle peachy aromas 5+ $30 Hunter Valley with a \"splash\" of oak.Vinden Estate Semillon 2015 HHH Generous mid-weightHunter Valley Lovely varietal characters palate has complex juicySemillon on the nose and lively fruit salad elements.2015 HHHH crunchy acid on a citrus-Great varietal nose driven palate. $30 5+ $36with subtle citrus rindcharacters. Excellentlength of delicate citrusflavours with a powerfulacid backbone. 5+ $26 November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 89

HUNTER VALLEY ROSÉ90 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016 2 TASTED 1 AWARDED Blueberry Hill Wines Hunter Valley Pinot Rosé 2016 HHH A refreshing well- made rose with bright perfumed aromas and nicely balanced sweetness on the palate. $25 OTHER RED Tempus Two Uno VARIETALS & Hunter Valley Pinot BLENDS Shiraz 2014 HHHH Lifted berry bouquet 14 TASTED with a nice spicy 11 AWARDED element. Good persistence of ripe A solid group. red fruit flavours with \"Interesting blends and good tannins and some good varietal mix,\" said savouriness. $35 one judge. \"These are Ernest Hill CEO smart regional wines Hunter Valley showing good varietal Cabernet Sauvignon typicity overall.\" 2014 HHHH Aromas of dark berries nicely integrated with perfumed oak. Great palate, very varietal with amazing length and poise. $40 Pokolbin Estate Hunter Valley Shiraz Viognier 2011 HHHH Powerful spicy raspberry nose with an apricot element. It's long, lush and creamy in the mouth with plump fruit flavours. $30 Pokolbin Estate Phoenix Hunter Valley Shiraz Tempranillo 2014 HHHH1/2 Lovely perfumed fruit nose; complex and lifted with hints of smokiness. Very juicy sweet fruit palate with great use of oak and wrapped up in bright and lively acidity. $28

regional tasting Ernest Hill Andrew McGuigan Personal Topper's Mountain Audrey Wilkinson Watson Reserve Reserve Hunter Wild Ferment New The Lake Hunter Hunter Valley Valley Cabernet England Tempranillo Valley Shiraz Tempranillo Sauvignon 2011 HHH 2014 HHHHH 2015 HHH 2014 HHH Full-bodied and balanced Dark and inky with Definitely a food wine. Very youthful wine. with lifted spicy red fruit purple hues. Nose is Lifted berry bouquet and Floral, blackcurrant aromas and lively dark a complexity of plums powerful acid drive to the aromas and simple but berry flavours. $32 and oak. Fleshy palate sour cherry palate. $28 intense jammy fruit with bold concentration Blueberry Hill Wines flavours. 5+ $60 SHIRAZ of red and black berries, Reserve Connoisseur beautifully integrated Hunter Valley Ernest Hill Rodney 20 TASTED oak and lovely silky Cabernet Sauvignon Hunter Valley Merlot 17 AWARDED tannins. 5+ $90 2015 HHH 2014 HHH Obvious mintiness on Smells of coffee beans A very consistent class the cassis nose. Palate and chocolate with showing the strength is well-structured, lovely layers of flavour of the variety in this balanced and very and nicely integrated region. \"These are great varietal. $50 tannins. $40 drinks,\" enthused one judge. \"We see good,Topper's Mountain Topper's Mountain clean, winemaking hereNew England Wild Ferment New and good varietal fruit,Tempranillo England Pinotage without excess alcohol.\"2010 HHHH Viognier 2012 HHHBright red fruit aromas Lively ripe berry bouquetwith some mature earthy with a blend of darknotes. A rustic character chocolate and spicyto the generous licoricey cooked fruit flavours. $32palate. Lovely tannins. $32 175 Glenwood Rd, Relbia, Also Available : Tasmania, 7258 • Sparkling ph: (03) 63 430 773 • Sauvignon Blanc Cellar Door Open 7 Days a week, • Riesling • Chardonnay 10am -4pm (Oaked and Unoaked) • Cabernet Merlotsharmanswines.com.au 2013 Pinot Noir (Award Winner) Also available 2014 Pinot Noir• Free freight Australia wide (Conditions Apply - Orders to be in multiples of 6 bottles) November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 91

HUNTER VALLEY Two Rivers Reserve Tyrrell's Wines Ernest Hill William Hunter Valley Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz Henry Reserve 2014 HHHH1/2 2013 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley Very youthful wine Medium weight style Shiraz 2014 HHH with lifted raspberry that's drinking well now. Seductive sweet oak lolly nose and a dash Has spicy aged notes to nose and well balanced, of pepper. The palate is the nose and the well- nicely textured palate. tightly structured with structured palate. $25 Lovely underlying fruit. a generosity of red fruit and prominent crisp Two Rivers 5+ $42 acidity. 5+ $30 Thunderbolt Tyrrell's Wines Hunter Valley Vat 9 Hunter Valley Saddler's Creek Shiraz 2015 HHH Shiraz 2013 HHH Ryan's Reserve A simple elegant purple A big, rich, full-bodied Vanessa's Vineyard wine with a lifted wine that is still youthful Hunter Valley Shiraz perfumed nose and with intense aromas and 2014 HHHH1/2 very primary fruit palate. flavours. $80 Oak-dominated nose RidgeView with some lifted spicy 5+ $20 Impressions florals pushing through. Single VineyardMcGuigan Personal The elegant palate is Tamburlaine Reserve Hunter Valley ShirazReserve Bainton soft and rounded in Hunter Valley Syrah 2011 HHHVineyard Hunter the mouth with very 2015 HHH Ageing gracefully withValley Shiraz consistent chocolaty A simple, easy to drink subtle leathery aromas2014 HHHH1/2 berry flavours. $40 style; some residual and intense powerfulA fruit-driven, inky sugar. Pretty floral berry butterscotch palate. $50purple, shiraz with an Poole's Rock Post fruit and perfumed oak.intense savoury bouquet Office Hunter Valley STAR RATINGS and good fruit weight Shiraz 2014 HHHH 3-5 $44on the medium-bodied The nose is complex Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofpalate with grainy and chocolaty. Generous Midnight's Promise excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.tannins and tight acidity. ripe fruit palate, lovely Hunter Valley Shiraz All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry long silky tannins and 2014 HHH professionals and are compared in peer 5+ $60 a velvety finish. Good Floral and perfumed classes by three judges. ageing potential. $65 fragrances. Tight, CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, slightly acidic palate a major mail-order business. but fantastic underlying CD Cellar door price. flavours. 5+ $28 CDO Cellar door only. Ernest Hill SO Sold out. Shareholders RidgeView $N/A Price not available at time of printing.Audrey Wilkinson Hunter Valley Shiraz Impressions Single  Contact information pg 135 -137.Hunter Valley Shiraz Vineyard Hunter2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 Valley Shiraz RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Some brown spices 2014 HHH BEST VALUE for $20 & under.A big youthful and and coffee on the A medium weight with For a complete list of what we tastedgenerously flavoured red berry/sour cherries please refer to www.winestate.com.auwine. Smells chocolaty nose and a powerful, characters, vanillin oak muscular palate layered and powerful acid.and spicy. Beautifully with earthy black fruitbalanced palate with a 5+ $35great acid spine. Good flavours. 5+ $30example of the 2014 Lindemans Benvintage. 5+ $22 Ean Vineyard Rare ReleaseLindemans Bin 1403 Bin 1410 HunterHunter Valley Shiraz Valley Shiraz2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2Slightly closed brooding A delicate nose witharomas with hints of pretty and subtlecherry liqueur. Incredible fruit fragrances. Longpower to the palate. and elegant and veryHas layer upon layer youthful palate.of flavours with subtleoak and some \"noble\" 5+ $69.99tannins. 5+ $29.9992 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

regional tastingILY MEMBER - NEW FAM- NEW FAM ILY MEMBERYour International Wine Specialists.. 982-992 Port Road, Albert Park, 5014 @festivalcitywines P: (08) 8349 1200 F: (08) 8349 1277 E: [email protected] www.festivalcitywines.com.au

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNORTH EAST VICTORIAMORRIS WINS A REPRIEVE REGIONAL STAR to worry about driving but would still like to travel in comfort, Alister Chisholm fromTHERE was much consternation in ALBURY-Wodonga is the gateway to the Rutherglen Country Cottages has a luxuryRutherglen when parent company Pernod wine regions of north east Victoria and home old-school Ford stretch limo to ferry visitorsRicard Winemakers confirmed plans to to one of the most innovative restaurants from cellar door to cellar door in rock-starclose Morris Wines, the celebrated fortified in regional Australia. A quirky take on style. The limousine accommodates up towine producer and major tourism draw card fusion cuisine awaits diners enjoying the seven passengers in plush velvet seats.with its wonderfully atmospheric old cellars. new menu at Atura Hotel’s Roadhouse Bar It comes equipped with a television andPRW said it was closing the business as it and Grill as East and West join in unusual CD player with a quality speaker system,wasn’t “sustainable” following a decline in ways. Think dishes like Atura’s new cheese and a cocktail bar with accessories.consumption of fortified wine and it looked burger dumplings – a marriage of a classic Visit rutherglencountrycottages.com.au/as if the move could end 157 years of wine burger and a gyoza dumpling. The humble limousine.production by six generations of the Morris macaroni and cheese is also given afamily. It was revealed that the cellar door makeover with deep-fried mac and cheese TASTY TREATSwould close at the end of January, 2017. balls served with smoky maple barbecue sauce. Other fusion dishes include Korean TASTE at Rutherglen is one of the best Pernod Ricard bought the winery in 1970 fried chicken with kewpie mayonnaise regional eateries in Victoria and it canbut the Morris family has continued to work and kimchi and calamari fritti with capers be found in the heart of town in one ofat the site and make wines since then, and and garlic aioli. “Atura Hotels are all about the town’s heritage-listed buildings. Theit found a white knight in John Casella from delivering a funky, youthful and fresh take on eatery is child, pet and cycle friendly, withCasella Family Brands (owners of Yellow the travel experience for guests and this was wheelchair access, and now features anTail), who agreed to buy the winery and used as inspiration for our new Roadhouse adjacent micro brewery. Classically Frenchbrand from Pernod Ricard and leave David Bar and Grill menu,” said Adam Petta, group trained chef Gavin Salwell and partner IonaMorris in charge of winemaking. Morris has culinary director. More conventional choiceshad a long friendship with John Casella, include butternut ravioli and pan-frieddating back over 30 years. “I’m delighted barramundi. The dessert menu has alsoto welcome Morris Wines into the Casella been overhauled with sticky date puddingfamily, particularly due to our long-standing and apple and rhubarb crumble tart amongrelationship with the Morris family, which goes the stars. Regular favourites including steak,back 50 years to when my father supplied Roadhouse burgers and roasted pork chopgrapes to their former Griffith winery,” said remain on the menu. And the Atura AlburyCasella. “Morris Wines is an iconic Australian recognises that guests will not always wantwinery and one of the greatest fortified to dine in-house, recommending other localwineries in the world, with over 150 years of eateries in Canvas Eatery by Tim Tehan,history and winemaking tradition. I believe Boom Boom Eatery and The RiverDeckwe are well placed to build on the strength Cafe, none of which have any links withof the brand and cellar door experience to the hotel. Atura Albury Hotel is at 648 Deanensure Morris Wines continues its legacy.” St, Albury, phone (02) 6021 5366 or visitDavid Morris expressed delight at the deal aturahotels.com/albury.which will doubtless be shared by the manyvisitors to the musty old cellars, one of the RIDE THE TRAILbest in the country. “I’m delighted thatMorris Wines has been returned to family CHOOSE your method of transport — bike orownership. The Morris family has built Morris limousine. One of the more interesting waysof Rutherglen into an iconic Australian brand of exploring the Rutherglen wine region isand John Casella believes in honouring the Wahgunyah to Rutherglen extension offamily legacy and winemaking tradition.” the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail, enablingThe acquisition includes the winery, cellar cyclists to ride the sealed path from thedoor, 80ha of vineyards, stock and the Morris banks of the Murray to historic Rutherglen.brand. Morris Wines, 154 Mia Mia Rd, Browns The 9km trail travels through the heart ofPlains; phone (02) 6026 7303 or visit www. the wine region. For those who don’t wantmorriswines.com.au.94 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

travelbriefsMyers have created a casual eatery, with REALISING A DREAM ALL THINGS ITALIANserious food and friendly service. When Tasteopened in 2012 they focused on designing a CHRISMONT Wines in the King Valley, LOVERS of all things Italian head to theseasonal menu dedicated to the finest local owned by Arne and Jo Pizzini, has unveiled Pizzini winery in the King Valley. The family-ingredients, with a formal dining experience its long-awaited Chrismont Restaurant and owned winery specialises in the productionin an inviting environment. It is open for dinner Larder. Including a spacious cellar door, of Italian wine varieties such as pinot grigio,Wednesday through Sunday, with menus the new architecturally-designed wine, arneis, prosecco, barbera, sangiovese anddriven by seasonality, availability and the food and events complex is the realisation nebbiolo. The family operates vineyardlocal ingredients. Five- and seven-course of a 20-year dream to create a destination accommodation on the property, runs thedegustation menus are available (vegetarian that combines winemaking with hospitality. Mountain View Hotel in Whitfield and alsoavailable) with matched wines as well as an a With an ever-changing menu that switches runs the A Tavola cooking school. This is thela carte menu with wine pairings. Think dishes with the seasons and uses inspirations spot to sample and buy new-release wineslike house-made gnocchi with confit of duck, from family recipes, the menu reflects the like the Pizzini 2014 La Volpe Nebbiolo andWooramel mushrooms and baby spinach, or couple’s northern and southern Italian Nonna Gisella 2015 Sangiovese. Pizziniperhaps caramelised pork belly in a house- heritage, and is designed for shared or Wines, 175 King Valley Rd, Whitfield; phonemade master stock. The couple's adjacent individual lunchtime dining, seven days a (03) 5729 8278 or visit pizzini.com.au.Rutherglen Brewery (which features beers week. Think dishes like local chicken leg,brewed on site) has six of its own beers on golden raisins, pinenuts and vegetables; Top left: Chrismont cellar door interior.tap, with casual dining and gourmet pizzas. beef cheek, smoked herb mash potato, Top right: Chrismont new development, balcony view.The go-ahead couple is also opening a new sweet and savoury balsamic onion; or Above right: Katrina Pizzini's Cooking School, photorestaurant/wedding venue shortly at Buller slow-cooked pork belly with braised red credit Jamie Durrant.Wines. Taste at Rutherglen is at 121b Main cabbage, fried potato and salsa agra Opposite page; Top: The infamous pork chop at AturasSt, Rutherglen; phone 0424 533 804 or visit dolce. The Larder is stocked regularly Roadhouse Bar and Grill.taste-at-rutherglen.com. and offers house-made flavours for visitors Middle: Cheese burger dumplings at Aturas to create their own antipasti or dessert Roadhouse Bar and Grill.DECKED OUT FOR DINING plates at home, including Sicilian pickled Bottom: Dessert at Rutherglen Brewery. eggplant, cumquats in syrup, chocolatePICKLED Sisters, adjacent to the Cofield spicy walnut biscotti, and orange andcellar door at Wahgunyah, is a favourite ruby grapefruit marmellata, and a range ofof local winemakers, who like to share preserves. Chrismont’s unmatched viewsthe outstanding (and huge) platters of of the King Valley have been captured bylocal produce. In fact, that might well be building designer MG Designs’ use of awinemaker Damien Cofield on the deck. The floating deck over the vineyard and floor-Pickled Sisters Cafe has a simple interior and to-ceiling glass panels which look towardsrustic surrounds, and an emphasis on local Powers Lookout in the west and the Blackand regional food and wine. It is a buzzy Ranges in the east. For those who want tospace during the day and more upmarket at turn a long lunch into a night or two away,night. The cafe features an internal glass wall the comfortable Chrismont Guest Houseoverlooking the Cofield Wines barrel room accommodation is set among the vines.and a large deck area for visitors to enjoy alfresco style dining. Pickled Sisters, Cofield Chrismont is at 251 Upper King River Rd,Wines, Distillery Rd, Wahgunyah; phone (02) Cheshunt and is open daily 10am-5pm. For6033 2377 or visit pickledsisters.com.au. bookings and details visit chrismont.com. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 95

88 TASTED54 AWARDEDNORTH EAST VICTORIAA very solid tasting of very solid wines across the board, from Willem Kurtworld class fortifieds to fresh and lively Mediterranean mid-weight Beechworthstyles, both red and white. The region offers a great range of Chardonnaypossibilities, from cool climate Alpine Valleys to warm climate 2015 HHHH1/2Rutherglen. Lots to like! Bright fresh integration of peach and melon fruitSPARKLING Gapsted Wines DRY WHITE with nice oak. Palate Tobacco Road King VARIETALS & is very crunchy and a7 TASTED Valley Prosecco BLENDS little nutty with lovely5 AWARDED NV HHH melon and nectarine-like Subtle honey characters 18 TASTED flavours underscored byA solid group of clean, on the nose with a 11 AWARDED the acid. $34fresh and vibrant wines lemon sherbet-likeshowing that King Valley palate. Lots of zesty A consistent group All Saints Estate Morris Theis a great region for acidity. $16 across the board with Rutherglen Percheronproseccos. Vero King Valley very few faults overall. Marsanne Rutherglen Prosecco 2015 HHH The standouts were 2015 HHHH1/2 ChardonnayBrown Brothers Appley aromas with the marsanne and Subdued bouquet; hints 2013 HHHH1/2King Valley Pinot floral notes. Pleasant chardonnay wines of lemon and honey Nose is a blend ofNoir Chardonnay green apple/lemon zest with \"a touch more with a mineral-like stonefruit, melons,Pinot Meunier flavours. $14.99 winemaking artefact,\" thread. Minerally and leesy characters andNV HHH1/2 Sorriso King Valley suggested one judge. steely on the palate. some flintiness. FlintyIntense complexity of Prosecco 2015 HHH Great flavour profile palate shows lovelybready/yeasty aromas Nice presence of sweet of melons, stonefruits texture and balanceand lovely lingering toasty cut pear-like varietal fruit and citrus. Good acid with the acid carryingnutty flavours - very characters. Floral nose, support. $25 the varietal fruitChampagne-like. $26.99 slightly sweet palate. flavours. $27 $16.66Buller Wines KingValley Prosecco2015 HHH1/2A bouquet of whiteblossoms. Good finebead and a fresh palatewith a hint of lemonzest and a touch ofsweetness. $22JUDGES Katherine Brown Daniel Balzer Simon Killeen Assistant Winemaker Owner/Winemaker at Owner & Winemaker and Brand Ambassador Willem Kurt Wines, Simão & Co Wines. for Brown Brothers Beechwoth. Has judged Rutherglen born and Wines. Formerly at Rutherglen, Cowra bred. Has worked in company Brand and Victorian wine wineries and vineyards Manager. Has shows. Previously across Australia, France completed three winemaker at Gapsted and Portugal. Returned vintages in France. Wines and Sam Miranda, home to Rutherglen, Associate judge at the and has vintaged at creating Simão in 2014. Melbourne wine show. Rheinpfalz, Germany.96 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

regional tasting Rutherglen OTHER RED King River Estate DURIF & Estates VARIETALS & King Valley Saperavi BLENDS Rutherglen VBBAEULSYUTSE BLENDS 2014 HHHH Good estery berry/plum 11 TASTED Pinot Grigio 16 TASTED nose and a rich oaky 5 AWARDED 2016 HHH 9 AWARDED palate firmly structured Smells of fresh pears A mixed group of and brimming over with \"A positive attempt to with a hint of lemon. reds both in variety bold fruit flavours and make new age durif Palate is tight and and quality. Some drying tannins. $35 wines as an alternative racy with green apple good performers with Rutherglen Estates to the blockbuster flavours. $18 the Italian, Spanish Single Vineyard traditional styles,\" and Russian varietals Rutherglen commented one judge. Michelini Italian showing the region Tempranillo \"Lots to look forward to!\" Selection Pinot suits these varieties. 2015 HHH1/2 Grigio 2016 HHH Brown Brothers Ripe dark fruit nose Anderson Very fresh citrus/pear Banksdale Vintage with a good lick of Storyteller bouquet with a bright Release King Valley oak. Savoury chocolaty Rutherglen Durif fresh fruit palate. \"Great Gamay 2015 HHHH palate with grippy, 2013 HHHH1/2 with curry!\" $20 A very attractive mouth puckering Lovely dark berry peppery/spicy red berry tannins. $22 fruit bouquet with aAll Saints Estate Buller Wines King bouquet leading on to a Anderson long generous palateFamily Cellar Valley Pinot Grigio seductively fleshy palate Rutherglen that has an excellentRutherglen 2016 HHH with juicy cherry fruit Tempranillo seamless balanceMarsanne Nose has a heady flavours. $20.90 2014 HHH1/2 between the sweet intensity of pears and Bright in colour with a fruit, the oak and the citrus. Simple, pleasant Eaglerange Estate floral/berry nose and a grainy tannins. $30 and very enjoyable Three Daughters voluptuously rich juicy palate. $22 Limited Release fruit palate balanced by Rutherglen Estates Happy Valley the acid and tannins. $21 Renaissance2013 HHHH1/2 The Pond Northern Saperavi Morris GSM Rutherglen DurifA complex wine with Victoria Pinot 2015 HHHH Rutherglen 2014 HHHHovert lush stonefruit Grigio Chardonnay Brooding fruit nose with Grenache Shiraz Complex durif.aromas, nice nutty 2015 HHH a dash of black pepper. Mourvedre Impressive toasty,notes and tropical hints. Aromas of honeysuckle, Full-on sweet fruit 2014 HHH1/2 rhubarb, beetroot nosePowerful 'slippery' herbs and melon. Nicely palate - big, rich and Simple blend with and lots of oak andpalate with good fruit textured flavoursome intense. Great example lolly-like berry aromas grippy tannins on theflavours and vanilla oak palate. Good acidity. of the variety. $25 CD and attractive blue palate. Nice fruit ininfluence. 5+ $35 $6.99 fruit palate with good there too. $50 oak balance and niceWillem Kurt Alpine ROSÉ tannins. $25 Baileys GlenrowanValleys Vermentino St Leonards Petite Sirah2015 HHHH 5 TASTED Vineyard 2014 HHH1/2Steely citrus drive to the Wahgunyah Big, warm and slightlynose and nice grip to 2 AWARDED Cabernet Franc aggressive style. Plumsthe palate with its zingy 2015 HHH and spices on the nose.gingery/lemony flavours. A couple of good wines Bold dark fruit freshness Sweet fruit flavours with\"Very more-ish,\" said showing the value of on the nose and big drying tannins. $28one judge. $25 sangiovese in this style. cherry palate with fine mouthcoating tannins. $30 All Saints EstateRutherglen Gapsted Wines James & Co Family CellarEstates Single Tobacco Road King Beechworth Rutherglen DurifVineyard VBBAEULSYUTSE Valley Sangiovese Sangiovese 2012 HHH1/2 Rosé 2016 HHH 2014 HHH A lush fruit noseRutherglen Simple, savoury and Herbs and leather on without being over-the-Arneis 2016 HHH1/2 very enjoyable with the nose. Big tannic top and jammy. SoftVery intense lifted hints of strawberries. palate with attractive well-structured palatetropical floral fragrances. Good acid backbone. berry flavour profile. $35 has a nice savoury fruitWell-balanced palate; $16 Morris of profile. $62flavours of apples and Rutherglen Bin Nopears with a mineral James & Co 80 Rutherglen Blue Scion Vineyardspine. $18 Beechworth Imperial 2013 HHH Estate Grown Sangiovese Rosé Interesting and Rutherglen DurifJones Winery & 2016 HHH different! Smells like Viognier 2014 HHHVineyard Rutherglen Estery passionfruit fruit-straps and has a Pretty aromatic bouquetMarsanne aromas and nicely slurpy and flavoursome with a lean lightweight2015 HHH1/2 balanced berry palate palate. $25 palate. ViognierAromatic bouquet; quite with some oak influence obvious. $42peppery and spicy with influence. $24a generous warm palaterich with spicy savouryflavours. 5+ $26 November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 97

NORTH EAST VICTORIASHIRAZ & Ciavarella King Morris Bin No 186 Morris Old Premium Morris CellarBLENDS Valley Shiraz Rutherglen Shiraz Rare Liqueur Reserve Grand Viognier 2013 HHH Rutherglen Muscat Rutherglen Tawny8 TASTED 2012 HHH1/2 \"Nose smells like a NV HHHHH NV HHHH1/25 AWARDED Pleasant floral red berry Monte Carlo biscuit,\" The nose is a lovely \"This is yummy!\" aromas and a warm and thought one judge. complexity of dried enthused one of theA solid group more from flavoursome palate with Nicely balanced fruit/oak fruits and spices - like a panel. It has a nuttythe warmer regions nice varietal fruit evident. palate. $20 Christmas cake! Palate rancio bouquet layeredof the North-East, Good drinking. $25 is thick, intense and with coffee grindrather than the cooler Rutherglen Estates FORTIFIEDS slippery in the mouth elements. Great flavourareas. \"These are good Rutherglen Shiraz with rich toffee and length and balance ondrinking styles offering 2014 HHH 23 TASTED caramel flavours. $75 quite a dry palate. $50well-balanced reds,\" Nose shows hints of 17 AWARDED Morris Old Premium Morris Cellarsaid one judge. roast lamb, herbs and Rare Liqueur Reserve Grand leather. Palate is rich with Great consistency here Rutherglen Topaque Rutherglen TokayBaileys Organic lovely fruit flavours. $22 with top end world class NV HHHHH NV HHHH1/2Glenrowan Shiraz Baileys Varley wines. Rutherglen is the Impressive dark tarry/ This tokay has a2015 HHH1/2 Glenrowan Shiraz epicentre of fortifieds in toffee bouquet layered deliciously dark, tarryA very pretty feminine 2014 HHH Australia - \"Perhaps in with dried fruit-like and savoury bouquetstyle of shiraz with a Pretty ripe varietal the world\", suggested elements. The generous with masses of intense,floral fragrances and fruit with nutty oak one judge. \"Always a palate has luscious thick black molasses-spicy red fruit flavours. integration and some pleasure to judge!\" sweet raisined fruit like flavours wrapped inGood tannin/oak grippy tannins. Nice big flavours with some warming spirit. $50support. $28 wine. $75 delicate spiciness. $75 KOONOWLA AUSTRALIA WIDE DISTRIBUTION by: Vintage House Wine and Spirits, Suite 4, Five Dock Plaza 50 Great North Road, Five Dock NSW 2046 australia | T: +61 (0)2 8736 3300 www.vhws.com.au KOONOWLA WINES: Tel +61 (0)8 8849 2270 | Mobile +61 (0)419 826 201 Andrew Michael www.koonowla.com98 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

regional tastingMorris Morris Classic Morris Cellar One Morris Classic All Saints EstateCellar Reserve Liqueur Rutherglen Classic Liqueur Liqueur Rutherglen RutherglenGrand Liqueur Topaque NV HHHH Rutherglen Muscat Tokay NV HHH Muscadelle NV HHHRutherglen Muscat Malty honeycomb aromas NV HHH1/2 A lighter style with Nose described as,NV HHHH1/2 coupled with orange peel A spicy caramel-like a fresh and vibrant \"a mix of tea andExcellent muscat elements. Very pleasant, nose and a long warm bouquet and a lush bright honeycomb\". Luscious,that's sticky with age. balanced palate with muscat fruit palate spicy fruit palate. $22 balanced simple fruitLovely blend of aged lingering spicy, raisined with some lovely rancio Morris Classic palate. $25characters and sweet flavours. $22 complexity. $35 Rutherglen Buller Wines Finespices on the nose. Buller Wines Fine Baileys Founder Tawny NV HHH Old RutherglenDelicious lip smacking Old Rutherglen Series Classic Spicy raisined fruit Tokay NV HHHconcentration of warm Muscat NV HHHH Glenrowan Muscat aromas with similar A fresh style with aflavours. $50 Lovely lush fruit cake- NV HHH1/2 characters echoed on malty nose showingMorris Mia like bouquet with a An older slippery the medium length hints of citrus rind. RichRutherglen slight malty touch. sweeter style of muscat palate. $22 spicy raisined palate. $25Apera NV HHHH More of the fruit cake that's all dark and All Saints EstateA fruitier style showing characters on the lovely chocolaty on the nose Rutherglen Muscatgood flor characters. creamy palate. $25 and hot and grippy in NV HHHPretty spirity grapey Baileys Classic the mouth. $30 Musky nose with slightfragrances and a lovely Glenrowan Topaque St Leonards menthol touch and adry nutty palate has NV HHHH Vineyard Classic simple grippy Turkishgreat freshness. $20 The nose is \"an Earl Rutherglen Muscat Delight-like palate. $25 Gray tea box,\" according NV HHH1/2 to one judge with spices Aromas of sultanas with and raisins. Warm a pleasant maltiness. lingering mouthfilling Nicely balanced and flavours. $30 flavoursome palate. Has good freshness. $37The Australia Israel Chamber of Commerce South Australia is delighted to announce our Trade Mission to Israel from the 13th to the 18th of May 2017 With Mission Leader, Mark Allison, CEO & Managing Director of EldersThe mission is designed for business leaders in Agriculture, Water, Food & Wine Production to engage, collaborate and to learn from Israel’s success as a world leader in Food and Agribusiness innovation and commercialisation. Contact Rilka Warbanoff on 0411 113 749 or at [email protected] for expressions of interest or for any further details. Join us for this truly one-of-a-kind experience!AUD $5 500 for AICC Members Delegates will need to cover their own travel & accommodation arrangements,AUD $6 500 for Non-AICC Members all other expenses will be covered. The Chamber will be organising special rates. We require a 20% deposit for confirmation of place on mission Australia-Israel Chamber of Commerce (SA/NT) Inc.A: 239 Magill Road, Maylands 5069 P: 0411 113 749 E: [email protected] W: www.aicc.org.au November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 99

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHAWKE'S BAY of individual rooms, studios, suites and apartments (eight configurations in total). The hotel underwent recent major interior refurbishment, including the opening of Emporium Eatery & Bar and renovations to all 42 rooms. Service can be sparse on occasion but the restaurant is good and there is an adjacent Irish pub with friendly staff. The Masonic Hotel is on the corner of Tennyson St and Marine Parade, Napier. phone +64 6 835 8689 or visit masonic.co.nz.LODGE OOZES LUXURY A Craggy Range sommelier will take guests REGIONAL RICHNESS through a personalised wine tasting as partCRAGGY Range recently opened the doors of the experience. Guests can also enjoy a HAWKE’S Bay, which encompasses theto New Zealand’s newest premier winery personal in-lodge chef experience which towns of Napier, Hastings and Havelockaccommodation with the launch of the includes a tour of the grounds where they can North on the east coast of the North Island,Owner’s Lodge located at its iconic Giants pick fresh herbs from the Terroir Restaurant is the oldest wine making region in NewWinery in Hawke’s Bay. The lodge features garden followed by dinner and personalised Zealand, with the first vineyards establishedfour luxurious king bedrooms, each with wine tasting. Guests can also access a in 1851. But the wines (among them someensuite, spacious open-plan living and helicopter as part of the Ultimate 2-Day Wine of the country’s best reds made from shirazchef’s kitchen. The formal living area offers Tour which includes an aerial tour of Giants which the locals call syrah) are far fromviews to Te Mata Peak, with dining and sitting Winery and the Kidnappers Vineyard in Te the only reason to visit this dramaticallyareas by an impressive open fireplace. The Awanga. The tour concludes with a picnic beautiful area with its wild river valleys andin-ground pool sits high above the valley, and wine tasting in the Gimblett Gravels sculptured, terraced vines. With climaticwith the property landscaped and set in lush Vineyard with a Craggy Range winemaker. conditions similar to Bordeaux, Hawke’sgreen surroundings. The Owner’s Lodge was Rates for the Owner’s Lodge are $2500 per Bay is the second-largest wine region inconstructed as part of the Giants Winery night in the high season and $2000 per the country – behind Marlborough – andbuild in 2001. While the external design night in the low season. The lodge sleeps produces 90 per cent of the merlot andremains in its original form, the layout of up to eight people. Other activities available cabernet sauvignon and 25 per cent ofthe lodge has been redesigned by local include bike riding, golf at Cape Kidnappers the chardonnay. The best-known winesarchitect Simon Clarkson. The interior design and guided fly fishing. Craggy Range is a are made in a small sub-region knownhas been styled as a country lodge, with family owned winery established in 1997. as Gimblett Gravels or in The Pa triangle.interior designer Andrew Melville saying: For full details visit craggyrange.com. There are more than 90 wine producers –“I used a carefully curated collection of and 35 cellar doors – with Church Road,natural materials and drew on these to create TRIP BACK IN TIMEtexture – rustic wooden floors, sandstonesurfaces, pewter finishes and in keeping STAYING at the Art Deco Masonic Hotelwith the natural New Zealand feel, cotton in Napier is like taking a trip back in time.and wool.” During their stay guests have This quirky boutique hotel, built in 1932 onaccess to an impressive wine selection, the site of two previous hotels, is set in theincluding large format and rare library wines. heart of 1930’s Napier and offers a range100 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016