Winestate Magazine September October 2022

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 3 1 9 TA S T E D Featuring Emerging Varietals E.Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis 181 tasted Paulmara Estates Areti Gumpara HEXEN &Diversity Taylors The Pioneer Henschke Hill Of Grace CwritehaEVtmiavrerieigttiiensyg Penfolds Grange G u m pa r a W i n e s New Releases Casts Its Spell 173 tasted SILVER SPOON ESTATE: Kyneton ridge THE PERFECT BLEND Cooler Than Cool September/October 2022 Vol 45 Issue 5 AUSTRIA’S DYNAMIC $12.00 AUS (inc GST) LANDSCAPE NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Limestone Coast & Surrounds • Emerging Varietals • New Releases • Michael Cooper's Recent Releases NZ

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NO.315 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing & Sales Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (02) 7618 2945 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Hilary McNevin, Megan Blandford Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Berlinda Conti Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... New South Wales Pearman Media so you don’t have to. Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide Jaye Coley E-mail: [email protected] phone +61 8 8357 9277 or New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman on-line www.winestate.com.au Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2022 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 3

contents SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 FEATURES Ranges by accident, writes Megan of Wien we find Burgenland, which Blandford. Only an hour’s drive contrary to perceptions of Austria 22 Gumpara Wines – Casts it Spell from Melbourne, this fantastic being in a near constant blanket of With wine practically running cool-climate region is known for snow, has as many as 300 sunny its pinot and chardonnay, however days a year and is a wonderful through his veins, successful 6th also produces other varieties more destination for sweet wine and generation Barossa grapegrower akin to the elegant European style. blaufrankisch, for red wine lovers. Mark Mader decided to take the leap in 2000 and start producing 34 Diversity & Creativity 42 WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & his own wines under his Gumpara with Varieties SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVII label. A recipe for success with Mader’s wife Mandy, an award We’re all familiar with the ‘standard’ The Winestate Magazine World’s winning viticulturalist, working grape varieties of shiraz, pinot noir, Greatest Syrah & Shiraz Challenge alongside Mark, it seems they cabernet, chardonnay, sauvignon XVII can be found on page 54 with have bottled magic to produce blanc and riesling, however the over 300 shiraz tasted. some truly world class wines. amount of grape varieties that exist beyond these mainstream R E G U L A R S 26 Silver Spoon Estate: The perfect ones are practically endless. So 8 Briefs blend of wine and personality why try to reinvent the wheel with 14 NZ Briefs these often hard to pronounce, 16 European Report with Sally Easton Peter and Tracie Young had sometimes temperamental and 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley very different plans for their so- usually niche alternative grapes? 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King called ‘retirement’ by starting The reason, writes Denis Gastin, is 48 Grapevine their own winery, Silver Spoon that winemakers are always looking 52 What’s it Worth? Estate. Clearly not slowing down for ways to achieve better outcomes 98 Aftertaste anytime soon they have taken on in their vineyards and wineries - for the challenge and succeeded in smoother management, better W I N E TAST I N G S making the winery 100% off-grid business returns, to adapt to 54 Shiraz/Syrah & Blends with a focus on sustainability that changing climatic conditions and to 66 Emerging Varietals flows through to their cellar door, develop pleasing wine styles to keep 78 Limestone Coast & Surrounds bistro and of course their award- their customer base turned on. And 82 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases winning wines. we couldn’t agree more! 88 New Releases 30 Kyneton Ridge – Cooler than Cool 38 Austria’s Dynamic Landscape Whilst searching for the perfect The second part in a series on property to call their own and the incredibly diverse Austrian quite literally put down roots, wine landscape explores some Andrew and Angela Wood surprising facts like the wine stumbled across the Macedon region, known as Wien, which survives successfully against all odds, smack bang in the middle of houses, tramlines and the rest of suburbia. Then to the south-east Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 315 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au September/October 2022 Cover image igorr 4 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

PIPERSRIVER

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editorial WE ALWAYS LOOK FORWARD TO OUR ANNUAL SHIRAZ & SYRAH CHALLENGE, this year somewhat diminished in size due to all the problems you know about. We have seen how the industry is struggling not just from the obvious Covid woes and the economic fallout from this, but also from all of the natural disasters which have quite literally plagued our industry. However, we are happy to report that it was a still acceptable and enjoyable judging of 319 wines. It is pleasing to note that the quality is as good as ever and in some cases better. No doubt tough times often bring about a greater focus. For our readers it offers a great insight into what is out there in the marketplace at the highest quality level and often at a very reasonable price. It should also be pointed out that even the highest price bracket wines were still worth it especially when you consider some of their European counterparts. Shiraz or syrah is the clay of all red varieties and most forgiving. I say clay because it has the depth and richness of sweet fruit that can be moulded by the winemaker in different directions, either bright and vibrant or savoury and complex. It is also a great blending variety. Make sure you check out the tasting notes of all the wines we recommended. It is important that you work out the style you like and identify those reviews that are similar to your own. Then go out and try them yourself. As always we purchased a few yardstick wines for your enjoyment with, unfortunately, not all making the grade. Of course this issue is not just about shiraz but includes many other tastings with some great recommendations for you. So we firstly have for your pleasure the exciting Emerging & Alternative Varieties. These are mixed red and white varietals which are generally mid-weight and it has often been said, made for drinking not shows, although there are also some heavyweights in the lineup. I know some of you will say how is this particular wine varietal “Emerging” when it has been around for years, but let’s say these varietals tend to not be mainstream wines, like shiraz, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. Don’t argue, just enjoy the difference! You can also read more about these interesting styles and why there seems to be a trend towards this in Denis Gastin’s article, Diversity & Creativity with Varieties on page 34. This issue also features a whole range of interesting award-winning winery profiles from the Barossa’s Gumpara Wines through to the Macedon Ranges Cool Climate winery, Keyneton Ridge and the 100% off-grid Silver Spoon Estate - all fascinating reads. A little bit further from home we feature the second installment on the wine regions of Austria, with an interesting look into how diverse this winemaking area really is. For a whole list of latest wines we feature our usual New Release judging and Michael Cooper contributes his New Zealand New Release favourites. Our regional feature this issue is Limestone Coast, with the eponymous Coonawarra leading the charge along with Padthaway, Robe and Mt Gambier. As I say lots to taste and lots to enjoy. Cheers! Peter Simic Editor/Publisher Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Major Sponsors and Supporters September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 7

briefs SUSTAINABLE AND ESG PROGRAM FACELIFT FOR QUEEN VIC WATERING HOLE ANNOUNCED ONE of Melbourne’s most famous watering holes is getting a new WINE AUSTRALIA has strengthened its support of the Australian name and a new look. grape and wine community’s goals with the announcement of a new focus on sustainability, environmental, social, and corporate Brick Lane Brewing has acquired the lease for the old Mercat governance (ESG). Cross Hotel in the Queen Victoria Market precinct, redeveloping the old pub into an immersive beer experience, including a restaurant, Rachel Triggs, now Wine Australia’s General Manager ESG and bar, and educational space. Market Access, will lead a multifaceted program incorporating expertise from across the grape and wine landscape to build a The space is expected to be completely open in March 2023, sector-wide sustainability and ESG strategy for Australian grape with some pop-up activity in the meantime. and wine businesses. Brick Lane Founder and CEO Paul Bowker, says: “The Wine Australia Chief Executive Officer Dr Martin Cole said the redevelopment of the iconic Mercat Cross Hotel site is one of the new program is the result of feedback from the Australian grape most important steps in the renewal of the Market Precinct and it’s and wine sector. an incredible honour that Queen Victoria Market has entrusted us with bringing this to life. “Many across our grape and wine community are already applying sustainable practices and are undertaking initiatives to “We’re thrilled to be investing in our ongoing relationship with improve the environments that we operate in,” he said. Queen Victoria Market. “Our conversations with our community, however, have confirmed “Since inception, Brick Lane has had community and inclusivity that its increasingly important that we invest further in sustainability at its core and there is no better example of the Market which has and ESG. There is an urgency to see our sector’s efforts expanded focussed on bringing Melburnians together for over 140 years. We beyond environmental sustainability to incorporate ethical and are committed to creating a welcoming and inclusive space for all economic sustainability in a greater capacity. The global operating Melburnians, visitors, and the market community. environment for our sector is on the cusp of considerable change and there is a strong desire to incorporate a greater scientific “This will be the flagship venue for Brick Lane and firmly cement evidence base to demonstrate our credentials on the world stage. our roots in the hustle and bustle of the Melbourne laneways and community which was the inspiration for the brewery since day “Ms Triggs is a leader at Wine Australia with significant expertise one.” to support the sector and I am thrilled that she will be helping our sector to achieve these goals and take a leading role internationally The venue will include a ground-floor bar featuring a range of in sustainability and ESG.” diverse beer styles, an upstairs restaurant driven by local market produce with an emphasis on sustainability, casual terrace dining, Triggs said that the rapidly changing international landscape and function areas with live music areas on the upper level. means there is a significant market access risk over the medium- to-long-term if the sector does not act. “Globally, there is an increasing expectation that ESG frameworks be contemplated in assessing the impact and ethical practices of companies, and these are having a significant impact on global market access dynamics, including on purchasing and investment trends. We intend to support the Australian grape and wine sector through demonstrating its sustainability and ESG credentials across the triple bottom line – ethical, economic, and environmental sustainability,” she said. “The Australian grape and wine community can be a leader in sustainability and ESG, and it’s vital that we act now. I’m delighted to be supporting the sector in this critical area and look forward to working with our community in driving meaningful change.” 8 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

briefs The food menu will highlight seasonal Victorian produce, while Australian line-up from Feels Botanical, Regal Rogue and Capi.” the drinks list will feature Victorian wine and spirit producers as This, apparently will not be just about drinks but be “a sensorial well as Brick Lane’s portfolio of beers including their Sidewinder No Alcohol and Sunsetter Ginger Beer ranges. journey through flavour, colour, texture and sound”. As part of Ovolo Hotel Group’s Plant’d initiative, Backroom will “The site provides a unique opportunity to truly showcase to Melbourne and the world the special role that beer can play in showcase an entirely vegetarian menu aligned to the brand’s creating community and bringing people together,” says Bowker. ongoing pledge to “ethical eating, conscious cuisine and cutting-edge veg”. “We see this as a real opportunity to bring the brewery and beer more broadly to life by creating an engaging and educational Backroom is located at 234 Toorak Rd, South Yarra. Look out hospitality experience, where everyone is welcome. The for that Martini glass neon sign. opportunity to do this in the Market precinct where our first kegs were poured four years ago, makes it even more special.” See www.bricklanebrewing.com VENTURE TO THE BACKROOM FIT FOR A KING BACKROOM, tucked away from Melbourne’s Toorak Road, KING’S COLLEGE - part of the University of Cambridge - has launched on July 1, offering a space for a post-dinner tipple, a history that dates to 1441. late-night snack, or cocktail. The college sits beside the River Cam in the centre of the city Adjoining Latin-influenced Lona Misa restaurant, the venue and was founded by King Henry VI. will be led by Ovolo Hotel’s group creative culinary director Ian Curley; group creative drinks director Andrea Gualdi (ex-Maybe Alumni include poet Rupert Brooke, mathematician Alan Turing Sammy); Lona Misa’s executive chef Isa Raku and bar manager and writers EM Forster, Salman Rushdie and Patrick White, Jordan Tredennick. along with famous wine writer Hugh Johnson. With entry via a discrete concrete door on Toorak Road The lucky folk who study here also have access to one of the identified only by a neon Martini glass sign, Backroom will be a most extraordinary wine cellars in Britain. 45-seat underground venue. A collection of rare Burgundies from the cellars fetched £1,365,125 Backroom will open every Friday and Saturday evening. in a Christie’s auction recently - that is over $AU 2 million. Gualdi says: “We’re lucky enough to work with leading innovative minds in the beverage industry, and so with the launch The ‘Generations of Jayer’ collection included 42 lots from the of Backroom we wanted to flip the concept of a bar on its head, Burgundy vineyards of Henri Jayer and his nephew Emmanuel Rouget. providing a platform for these brands to shine. “The product comes first and sets our team the exciting creative The cellars lie deep inside a labyrinth of dark, cold vaults challenge of reinventing our food and beverage menus with each beneath King’s College. They are said to contain more than new collaboration, drawing inspiration from what these brands 50,000 bottles. are all about - their unique flavour profiles, heritage and ethos. We couldn’t think of a better way to kick things off than with an all- King Henry VI granted its students an annuity of “one tun of French wine”, the equivalent of 256 gallons. Jayer was dubbed the ‘godfather of Burgundy’ after pioneering a range of key innovations in the region. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs flavours. The rum and fruit flavours are then blended with purified water added at completion. Both drinks are gluten free. “As the world’s most awarded rum brand with more than 158 years in the business, consumers consistently turn to Bacardi,” says brand ambassador Loy Catada. “The flavour segment is an exciting area for the brand to play, after having watched the growth in flavoured spirits closely overseas we see it as a massive opportunity for Bacardi and for Australian consumers.” Bacardi Coconut and Bacardi Raspberry are available for a suggested retail price of $49 per 700ml bottle through Dan Murphy’s and all major retailers. TASSIE ON HIGH A THAI ESCAPE ONE of the best ways to explore Tasmania must be from the air. THAILAND is one of the first gourmet destinations in Asia to fully Tasmanian Air Tours’ latest offering gives guests the chance reopen to Australian tourists with Jetstar offering direct flights to Phuket from both Melbourne and Sydney. Correspondent Winsor to explore some of the Hobart region’s top tasting experiences Dobbin has unearthed a couple of fun destinations perfect for via scenic helicopter flights. lovers of food and wine. Visitors can sample artisan cheeses, unique tipples, and Family owned and operated Sunsuri is located at Nai Harn excellent wines, before heading to a vineyard for a fine feast. Beach at Promthep Cape, just 10 minutes from Kata but a world away in pace. Here you feel like you are in Thailand, rather than After a flight over Hobart, guests enjoy a tasting experience a resort enclave. at Grandvewe and Hartshorn Distillery at Birchs Bay, the home of award-winning sheep’s whey vodka and cheeses. Sunsuri offers stunning sunset views because it is in the deep south of Phuket, on a hillside just a short stroll to an unspoilt beach Next up, sample Mewstone Wines’ excellent drops under and local shops and food stalls. For lovers of nightlife, busier Rawai the Mewstone and Hughes & Hughes labels at their recently is just a short tuk-tuk ride away. established cellar door at Flowerpot. Fully operational (as an independent hotel Sunsuri was badly hit Then finish with a flight across the River Derwent to the Coal during Covid), the hotel features 128 rooms with eight buildings and River Valley, where a lunchtime feast at Frogmore Creek winery 22 sensational pool villas designed in a contemporary Thai style. is on offer. Each of its accommodation units has a wide balcony with views The cost is $1299 per person with a two-person minimum. and the rooms are very spacious. There are two restaurants, two See www.tasmanianairtours.com.au/delicious-tasting-flight- bars, a wine cellar, five swimming pools with a kid’s area, slide tasmanian-cheese-tipples-and-wine. and diving platform. TROPICAL DELIGHTS There is free high-speed wifi Internet access throughout FEEL the need to party? the hotel (much faster than in Iconic Caribbean rum producer the inner west), a spa, games room, a lounge for early Bacardi has launched two new arrivals and late departures, flavours with a tropical twist. a fitness centre, recreation and sport activities and free Bacardi Coconut and Bacardi bicycles for guests. Raspberry can be enjoyed over ice, or as cocktail ingredients. There is a talented kitchen team equally adept at Thai, Both have an approachable fusion, and European cuisine. ABV of 32% and are made from a See https://www.sunsuri- base of Bacardi white rum infused phuket.com/ with “all-natural” coconut and raspberry flavours. Just an hour north from the popular beach resorts of A special rum blend from Phuket, meanwhile, visitors Maestros de Ron has been chosen can discover a different side to create a light base for the sweet of Thailand. coconut and crisp raspberry 10 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

briefs Think deserted stretches of sand with a hammock to call your VINEXPOSIUM FINDS NEW HOME own, white-water rafting and award-winning restaurants in which you may well be the only non-Thai in the room. IN a move that had long been expected, Vinexposium has changed the location of its flagship wine trade exhibition in the For a slice of authentic Thailand that’s not too far off the beaten Asia-Pacific region and has chosen Singapore to host Vinexpo track, Khao Lak delivers plenty of variety. Asia in May 2023. Khao Lak is in Phang Nga province and is known for its palm trees, The group intends to capitalise on the history of Vinexpo Hong endless golden sand beaches and long winding roads into the hills. Kong, which was held in Hong Kong for 20 years until 2018. With a new name echoing its broader scope, Vinexpo Asia is The recently opened Avani+ Khao Lak Resort is a 327-room returning to the region with the aim of maximising its influence. seafront property on Bangsak Beach that offers the chance to stroll almost deserted beaches but also enjoy villas with their own plunge Vinexpo Asia will take place in Singapore from May 23-25, pools and some rather excellent cocktails at sunset. 2023 in the heart of the Marina Bay Sands complex. It is the many local experiences on offer, however, that set the The new venue has been chosen thanks to the appeal of resort apart. Singapore as a growing business hub. Enjoy a cycle trip along the coast to check out nearby Bang Vinexpo Asia will focus entirely on wines and spirits and will Niang market or take an excursion to the Similan Islands, Phang become an annual event in the group’s portfolio. Nga Bay or Koh Phi Phi. Vinexpo Asia expects between 1,000 to 1,200 exhibitors from Two favourite activities, both arranged through the hotel, are across the globe. exploring the ‘Little Amazon’ of Khao Lak rafting along the Wang Kiang Ku River, and the authentic southern-Thai Chinese- The latest research by the IWSR for Vinexposium forecasts an influenced cuisine at Nai Mueang restaurant, where Winsor says annual rate of overall growth of 1.5% by 2025 in Asia-Pacific, he was the only tourist tackling the spicy, tasty food. which is higher than the forecast for Europe, estimated at 1.4%. For bookings, deals and further details see www.avanihotels. “There is currently strong demand among our exhibitors to com/khao-lak-phang-nga return to Asia in the best possible conditions,” says Rodolphe Lameyse, CEO of Vinexposium. “Singapore stands out as an obvious choice for serving the interests of the entire Asia-Pacific region and acts as a magnet, not only for Chinese clients, but also Australians, South Koreans, Thais, Japanese and Vietnamese, to name a few.” Vinexposium is the world’s leading organiser of wine and spirits trade events. HUNTER HONOURS BRIAN MCGUIGAN AFTER close to 50 years of active service to the wine industry, Brian McGuigan AM has been announced as Hunter Valley Wine & Tourism Association Honorary Patron. His younger brother Neil was named Hunter Valley Wine Legend for 2022. With Brian’s wife Faye McGuigan also a Hunter Legend, the family’s decades of service to the wine industry have been deservedly recognised. The 2022 event at Cypress Lakes also saw a poignant tribute September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs from Phil Ryan to recently departed veteran Hunter winemaker wine at home with a meal. More and more people want to enjoy Karl Stockhausen. premium quality wines at a picnic without carrying an entire bottle or worrying about any wine wastage. The winners of the 2022 Legends and Wine Industry Awards are: Riedel Young Achiever of the Year: Alex Beckett (Briar Ridge “The half-bottle format in the Jaraman range does just the trick.” Vineyard) The new Jaraman half-bottles will be available from select HVWTA Tourism Operator of the Year: Beyond Ballooning independent retailers, from Taylors cellar door, and online at www. HVWTA Accommodation Operator of the Year: Spicers taylorswines.com.au. Guesthouse Jurds Viticulturist of the Year: Jerome Scarborough (Scarborough BUBBLES BEAT THE BLUES Wine Co.) Wine Selectors Cellar Door of the Year: De Iuliis Wines THE Covid-19 pandemic, lockdowns, restaurant closures, financial First Creek Winemaking Services Winemaker of the Year: Liz difficulties. Silkman (First Creek Wines & Silkman Wines) HVWTA Outstanding Contribution of an Individual: Christina None of them made the slightest difference to Champagne lovers Tulloch (Tulloch Wines) in Australia as sales figures continued to soar in 2021. HVWTA Patron: Brian McGuigan AM Hunter Valley Tourism Legend: Philip Hele OAM (Hunter Valley The volume of exports of Champagne to Australia grew by 16.8% Resort & The Farm Hunter Valley) from 8.25 million 750ml bottles in 2020 to over 9.9 million bottles Hunter Valley Wine Legend: Neil McGuigan in 2021. TAYLORS PERFECT AT HALF THE SIZE This is a difference of over 1. 3 million more bottles of Champagne and means that more Champagne came to Australia last year than HALF bottles of wine are perfect if you want a glass or two of white ever before in our history. followed by a red with the main course. Australia is the sixth-largest export market for Champagne in the Unfortunately, half bottles have largely fallen out of vogue - but world by volume – which is remarkable considering a population Clare Valley-based family winery Taylors has unveiled a selection of only 25 million people. of half-sized bottles featuring its Jaraman range of regional blends. In 2020, the value of the Australian market was around €116 The Jaraman range is known for showcasing the terroirs of two million (which was up by 11% compared to 2019). In 2021, the distinctly different wine regions. market was worth €160 million, which is an increase of just over 26% compared to 2020. For its initial release of 375ml bottles, Taylors has selected its 2020 Jaraman Clare Valley and Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon This potentially shows that Australians are following the trend (RRP $20), 2020 Jaraman Clare Valley and McLaren Vale Shiraz of ‘trading-up’ in their choices of Champagne, the Champagne (RRP $20) and the 2021 Jaraman Adelaide Hills and Clare Valley Bureau reports. Chardonnay (RRP $15). The market has consistently grown by around 8-10% each year “It’s exciting to share these incredible wines in a half-size for the past 20 years, including 2021 where Australia was the only format,” says managing director Mitchell Taylor. “The wine-drinking market in the world to show any significant growth (11.2%). occasion has changed a lot over the years from the traditional Champagne houses make up the largest sector in the Australian market at around 95% (9.5 million bottles) but other categories of Champagne producers such as growers and co-ops are receiving more and more interest from educated Australian consumers. 12 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

briefs Winarch Capital and Cedar Mill Group managing director Paul Lambess said: “This strategic purchase is the beginning of our rollout of multiple sites in Victoria, as we are currently doing in NSW. “This marks the first interstate purchase that will begin our realisation of a national and international network. All venues will include world-class and purpose-built amphitheatres that the Cedar Mill brand will be known for.” The Cedar Mill group are actively searching for future Cedar Mill sites across Australia, their PR team reports. A PLEASANT CHANGE IT is all change at Mount Pleasant Wines in the Hunter Valley. New owners: a multimillion-dollar investment, new tasting facilities and a new menu imagined by star chef Justin North. The reborn Pokolbin icon resumes its status as one of the region’s “must visit” cellar doors. Adrian Sparks stays on as winemaker. The number of different companies has increased dramatically too – in 2020 there were 261 brands of Champagne coming to Australia, but in 2021 a total of 304 brands were imported – an increase of 43. MAJOR DEVELOPMENT FOR YARRA VALLEY SPICERS TAKES THE TOWER THE developers behind two ambitious tourism projects in regional THE former Tower Lodge resort in the Hunter Valley has reopened New South Wales have unveiled plans for a new Yarra Valley after a $10 million renovation project. The property will now be development. known as Spicers Tower Lodge. Winarch Capital’s Cedar Mill Group has acquired a 100-acre site Tower Estate was the brainchild of late wine expert Len Evans on the Maroondah Highway in the Yarra Valley for its third purpose- and the exclusive retreat is built in a modern Spanish mission style built outdoor amphitheatre and tourism project, expected to open with views to Brokenback Range. in 2024 at a cost of up to $200 million. With an outdoor pool and hidden courtyards, it has serious It follows the previously announced $235 million redevelopment Spanish vibe. of Morisset Golf Course, to be known as Cedar Mill Lake Macquarie, with plans for a 30,000 person concert venue, cafés Spicers Tower Lodge has a stucco tower and terracotta tile plaza and restaurants, accommodation and Australia’s largest aquatic and was for many years a major tourism drawcard. It will be the park. Construction is underway. third Spicers property in the wine region. Last August, Cedar Mill Group also announced the purchase of Leisure pursuits here will include archery, bike riding, golf, reading one of the Hunter Valley wine region’s most premium development by the fireplace or enjoying the courtyard pool. sites, in Pokolbin, for its second purpose-built outdoor amphitheatre and tourism project, expected to open late 2023 at a cost of about There will be daily wine tastings and garden tours as well as $150 million. bespoke vineyard experiences in partnership with five local cellar doors and breweries. A premium wine tourism destination, the Yarra Valley already hosts over six million visitors per year. The on-site Restaurant Sebastian will be inspired by the Basque region, offering dishes from bite-size delicacies to fresh seafood. Plans for Cedar Mill Yarra Valley, which is just over one hour’s Seasonal menus will highlight Hunter Valley produce. drive from Melbourne central, include a 300-bed hotel, conference and function facilities, three restaurants, 20 boutique villa units, tennis courts, a lake and gardens precinct, arts and craft village, and outdoor amphitheatre to host live concerts and events from major local and global touring acts. The plans include local growers and operators providing boutique goods and dining experiences inspired by the local agricultural produce along with winemaking, distilling and brewing. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 13

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW A WELCOME 2022 VINTAGE Te Muna Road Pinot Noir from Martinborough will be represented by CVBG and Mähler-Besse in both Europe and Asia. David Peabody, WITH the dust settled and grapes tucked safely into wineries (or marketing manager at Craggy Range, said with Craggy’s focus on even heading out into the world as finished wines) the reckoning expanding its global distribution reach, the move made sense, adding, on Vintage 2022 is underway. The most notable fact was its size ‘While this is great for Craggy, it will also reinforce the idea that New - at 532,000 tonnes it was welcome return to normality after the Zealand does have a place in the world of fine wine, especially for previous year’s sparse harvest. This year was 44% up on 2021 and pinot noir. Hopefully, this will encourage international négociants to producers are mightily relieved to be restocking their warehouses look at New Zealand fine wine more seriously’. Craggy Range was and markets. Marlborough, the engine room of the industry at 81% approached by Tom Portet and Emma Thienpont of International of the country’s harvest, had an increase of 54%. Philip Gregan, CEO First Growths, who noted the “quality of their wines, but also their of New Zealand Winegrowers outlines the industry thinking, stating international relevance. Very few brands from the New World have the “Going into vintage, wineries urgently needed a larger harvest as presence in major markets that Craggy do. The growth in demand for strong demand and smaller than expected crops in recent years had international wines has been extraordinary, so the time is right to bring led to a significant shortage of New Zealand wine. That shortage New Zealand into the mix”. La Place has been the main trading hub for has caused total New Zealand wine sales to fall 14% from the peak Bordeaux’s fine wine since the 17th century and first expanded to New achieved in January 2021, even as wineries supported sales by World wines with Chile’s Almaviva in 1996 and then Opus One in 2004, drawing on stocks which are now at rock-bottom levels.” With New both producers being partnerships with Château Mouton Rothschild. Zealand exporting nearly 90% of its production, international markets were hardest hit but even the domestic market felt the pinch, with MARLBOROUGH MAKES ITS MARK local sales of New Zealand wine falling to their lowest level since 2004. Of course, while crop size and overall quality may have left APPELLATION MARLBOROUGH WINE (AMW) continues to go from producers smiling, as detailed in previous News Briefs it wasn’t all strength to strength. It now boasts over 50 members of all shapes plain sailing; the Omicron outbreak complicated the main harvest and sizes and has recently expanded its criteria for inclusion from period and ongoing staff shortages, and international supply chain solely sauvignon blanc, to all varieties grown in Marlborough. From issues continue to cause challenges amid concerns about the this year each submitted sauvignon blanc will also be tasted blind outlook of the global economy. For now, though, producers can by an independent panel, in order “to authenticate the wine as a true again enjoy the feeling of well-stocked wineries. Marcus Pickens of representation of the region”. Ivan Sutherland, who is AMW chair and Wine Marlborough sums up, “We’ve delivered the volumes that the co-founder of Dog Point Vineyards, says, “Appellation Marlborough market wants and it’s a nice position to be in…we have enough to is a pioneering and evolving organisation. These recent refinements supply our consumers.” strengthen our quality standards and add further credibility to the original values of our appellation”. In addition to the new stipulations, FREE TRADE SECURED to bear the AMW logo all wines must be made from 100% Marlborough grapes, be bottled in New Zealand, crop at-or-under stipulated levels WHILE the physical shipping of exports might be causing headaches and be harvested from vineyards certified as sustainable. Sophie for producers, other good news has arrived in the form of New Parker-Thomson MW, AMW committee member and co-owner of Blank Zealand’s recently signed Free Trade Agreement (FTA) with the EU, a Canvas Wines, says the additions came about as feedback from the deal which largely mirrors the UK FTA signed in March. This removal trade often centred on how the quality of AMW wines was guaranteed of tariffs and other bureaucratic barriers is estimated to save wine and where its “teeth” were. She feels the tasting element is an important growers NZ$5.5million annually, much needed in a time of rising costs next step, commenting, “We’ve created a robust, independent, and in almost all other areas. Both FTAs represent significant chunks of blind tasting process to ensure that all AMW certified sauvignon New Zealand wine exports. The UK is NZ’s second largest market blancs will be representative of Marlborough. AMW stands for quality, (after the US) with exports valued at over $400 million over the past integrity and authenticity. We want to offer consumers an assurance 12 months, while the EU annually imports over 20 million litres of wine of a wine with typicity and concentration”. Parker-Thomson notes it valued at over NZ$150 million. It is expected the EU FTA in particular was important to start with sauvignon blanc when looking to protect will accelerate growth into this market, via the removal of much of the the Marlborough brand and reputation. “Sauvignon quality has been red tape that previous stymied exporters. Additionally, the FTAs mean scrutinised the most, so it is paramount that AMW provides additional New Zealand’s wine GIs will be protected in the EU for the first time. assurance, via this objective tasting process, that all wines bearing the AMW certification are worthy of it. And because Marlborough is not NZ GETS ITS PLACE IN BORDEAUX just about sauvignon blanc, it makes sense for AMW to now extend to other varieties as well”. THE historic La Place de Bordeaux négociants network has been opened to New Zealand for the first time with the September release of Craggy Range’s 2020 Prestige Collection wines. Craggy Range’s ‘Le Sol’ Gimblett Gravels Syrah from Hawke’s Bay and its ‘Te Aroha’ 14 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

\"We don't just make great wines, we put our heart and soul into it\" Siblings Amelia & Trent Burge Discover wines from the next generation of an iconic Barossa wine family. www.corrytonburge.com September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 15

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW SOILS AIN’T SOILS – THE ARGUMENT FOR REGENERATIVE VITICULTURE REGENERATIVE viticulture is becoming Focus on carbon sequestration to the soil: plants capture carbon from the something of a buzz phrase in winey Putting biodiversity to one side, arguably atmosphere, enabling it to be stored over circles. Last year saw the founding of one of the unique things about regenerative the long term in soils. Length of time of two businesses focused on this theme, agriculture is the level of focus placed on storage is important. But the amount of one in Spain, and one in the UK. One carbon sequestration. Human activity has carbon that can be stored is finite. Once states sustainability and biodiversity depleted carbon from soils. Increased carbon saturation is reached, no further as key purposes. The other states soil carbon capture and storage results from carbon can be sequestered. The IPCC regeneration and biodiversity. So, what is ‘improving’, or restoring, soil health and uses 20 years for saturation to be reached. regenerative viticulture? quality. Increasing biodiversity adds to this. Soil organic matter (SOM) is Regenerative agriculture toolkit Regenerative viticulture derives from key in achieving this. SOM comprises Regenerative agriculture looks to restore regenerative agriculture, a concept decaying plants and animals as well as the soil carbon deficit that has arisen from developed in 1970s. Grape growing, is, their secretions and excretions; these agricultural activities using a number of after all, a monocultural form of farming, different tools. Multiple tools are best, as which is perhaps one of the reasons why Human activity has the effect size of individual measures tend biodiversity is at the core of both new to be modest. Reforestation, as well as crop businesses. However there is no universal, depleted carbon from diversification and rotation are key ones, consensus definition of regenerative though less relevant for viticulture. agriculture, though it pares down to three soils. Increased carbon key aims: firstly, to restore soil health, which Cover cropping is another key tool, has been degraded by agricultural activity; capture and storage already used in some viticulture. And this enables increased carbon capture and while crop rotation is not available to the storage, which, in turn, mitigates some results from ‘improving’, wine industry, it is easy to envisage that climate change. Secondly, to reverse some maintaining a permanent cover crop on the of the biodiversity losses caused by human or restoring, soil health vineyard floor might be a rather quick win, activity, which will also increase carbon for those producers not already following capture and storage. Thirdly, to maintain and quality. Increasing this practice. A permanent cover might agricultural productivity. mean a rotation of (diverse) cover crops, biodiversity adds to this. with one or two ploughings to convert Along with biodiversity improvement, the cover crop to a green manure, for regenerative agriculture advocates organic compounds are rich in carbon. soil nutrition, or it might mean the same reducing (rather than eliminating), synthetic While the process of decomposition permanent cover, such as grass, resulting pesticides and fertilisers, the use of releases carbon via microbial respiration, in a ‘no-plough’ or ‘no-till’ approach. which helps maintain crop load. In these humus, the dark-coloured ‘endpoint’ of regards, regenerative agriculture seems decomposition retains carbon well. A no-plough/no-till tactic is advocated, to replicate some of the things that are but without compulsion. Ploughing/ already done under the various forms Soil health is slowly restored by increasing tilling releases carbon from the soil. The of non-agrochemical-based farming its SOM. Soil’s proper functioning manifests increased aeration increases the rate of approaches, for example: sustainable, as better nutrient retention, meaning greater carbon-releasing decomposition of soil organic, biodynamic. These systems also productivity; improved water retention and organic matter via microbial activity. So argue, variously, for reduced agrochemical percolation, meaning a reduction in erosion by ploughing/tilling less, more carbon is (synthetic fertilisers and pesticides) and run-off, and greater resilience to both retained within the soil. use, improving soil quality, increasing drought and excessive rainfall, two key biodiversity, maintaining agricultural climate change issues. It also adds carbon Additionally, bringing in sheep to graze, productivity. or birds of prey and fowl to manage certain pests is not uncommon in organic/ 16 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

biodynamic viticulture, which feeds into administrative bodies already exist. Indeed, Visit our website and keep the regenerative agriculture idea of mixing more than ten years ago the 1,500 hectare up to date with all our latest crops and animals. French appellation of Saumur-Champigny, wine info, news, competitions, in the Loire Valley instigated a pest- Another key tool relevant for viticulture is reduction, biodiversity enhancement, tastings and events. the use of composts and manures, which landscape management plan, one aspect Become a subscriber to enter are already an integral part of organic of which involved planting and growing 25 and biodynamic viticulture. These provide kilometres of hedgerow. Now, a third of the into our exciting regular nutrients, enabling soil organisms to area is organic. competitions. improve soil organic matter, and change nutrients into biologically-available forms In the European context, the ambition of Follow us and keep up to for plants, while also adding carbon to the European Union (EU) is to make Europe date with all our latest the soil. the first climate-neutral continent by 2050. wine info, tastings and Various strategies are in place to drive this, A broad concept and the regenerative aspects of carbon events on facebook, twitter Regenerative agriculture is a broad concept, capture and biodiversity enhancements are and instagram. and one that, unlike certified farming important tools, alongside existing, more approaches, does not have compulsory sustainable farming systems. Agriculture Winestate Magazine criteria for adherents. This creates potential is a key contributor to greenhouse gases @WinestateEd contradictions for the various viticultural (GHG), and the EU aim is to bring down approaches, for example, regenerative agricultural GHG emissions by 55% by www.winestate.com.au agriculture allows genetic engineering, 2030. It aims to have 25% of agriculture and the use of agrochemicals, which are farming organically by 2030. Currently anathema to organics and biodynamics. only about 12% of European viticulture, But a reduction in the use of agrochemicals specifically, is organic. The comparison is consistent with sustainable agriculture. with Australia highlights some general And these systems already variously use comparative issues: less than 1% of the some of the soil-enhancement tools in the Australian vineyard is certified organic, but regenerative toolkit. in part, this may be owing to the Australian government’s promotion of sustainable, On the other hand, the absence of rather than organic, viticulture. universal standards and specific protocols required for different certifications could Various tools of regenerative agriculture be a potential ‘win’ for viticulture. A are already applied in various farming single tool could be implemented across approaches. The broad concept is already whole appellations, and wine areas, at a being parsed, for example, where the regional scale. The tools described are certified aspects of a farming approach have applied at the farm/vineyard level. Some a selective regenerative ‘add-on’, in the ilk of the regenerative tools, such as buffers, of the USA’s ‘regenerative organic certified’ corridors, and hedgerows for biodiversity programme. Whether regenerative agriculture restoration, ‘cut across’ the different clarifies or confuses, time will tell. viticultural approaches; that is, certain tools could be adopted whether viticulture is agrochemical-based, sustainable, organic or biodynamic. Many regional September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 17

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY VESSELS FOR FERMENTATION THE most important step in making wine removed to stir the lees then the wine is further has had a facelift in the last twenty years with is the fermentation process. Stainless steel exposed. When new they transfer vanillin, the introduction of the ‘egg’ shape vessels. vessels have been used since the 1970’s, which is the flavour of sweet vanilla to the but nowadays there is a wide choice of other wine. But as the barrel becomes older this Egg shaped fermenting vessels have their materials in all shapes and sizes. Traditionally, is significantly reduced, making it more of origins in ancient history. But the first egg in winemakers have kept it simple and used a neutral vessel. Larger oak casks, capable modern times was used by Michel Chapoutier open top fermenters for red wine and sealed of holding many thousands of litres, can be in 2001 in the Rhone valley so they have been vats for white. For white wine protecting the used to ferment wines such as riesling and around a while. wine from oxidation is key to keeping the is a tradition found in Alsace and Germany. fruit flavours. Open top fermenters allow the Wood is a good heat retainer but because Joining the new concrete eggs craze are winemaker to macerate the juice in the skins the wine soaks into the wood, their use is clay and other ceramic amphora vessels. and aerate the fermentation via a number of limited to white wines, then onto red and These are being taken up by winemakers methods such as pump over, plunging the possibly ending up used for fortified wines. across the nation. Samantha Connew from cap or rack and return. Getting oxygen into They need constant care with the possibility Stargazer Wines in Tasmania makes a ferments is increasingly used. Once thought of bacteria infections such as brettanomyces. number of white wines in both of these and to be the scourge of winemaking it is now Best’s at Great Western in Victoria use a large is happy with them “Obviously as they are being harnessed. Oxygen is needed to start 2,500 litre oak ‘foudre’ which was crafted in a little porous you get that slightly oxidative the fermentation and in red winemaking it Burgundy to make their impressive Foudre dimension from the ferments but I also think stabilises the colour and softens tannins Ferment Riesling. there is a slightly different ferment dynamic which makes wine more approachable at an in the eggs as well – the fermenting juice earlier age. Stainless steel is an seems to move around the oval quite actively. In terms of negatives, like all of these non- Stainless steel is an extremely hygienic extremely hygienic stainless-steel vessels they do take a bit of material and easy to clean. Vats can have diligence when they are empty.” insulated jackets or be glycol cooled to control material and easy to fermenting temperatures. They do not transfer But their use is not confined to white wines. any flavours and depending on their size, can clean. Vats can have Robin Brockett, winemaker from Scotchmans be moved around the winery. When empty Hill in Geelong, uses an amphora to produce they are comparatively light weight. Variable insulated jackets or his own label syrah. “I started using Amphoras capacity stainless steel tanks allow the in 2013. This was after I had seen some winemaker to place different volumes of wine be glycol cooled to wines made using these vessels which into the tank as they have floating lids that can were impressive. It piqued my interest. The be sat on top of the liquid. Some companies control fermenting amphoras are made from terracotta and are have invested in rotary fermenters. These are hand made in Tuscany.” large stainless-steel machines that rotate via temperatures. different computerised programs to keep the It is interesting to compare the oxidative must in contact with the skins. They ferment Prior to stainless steel becoming available benefits that Sam Connew sees with the the wines quickly but need a lot of space in wineries used concrete vats that were built way that Robin uses his amphora. He sees a winery and are normally suited to larger in situ. Old wineries will often have large wax a number of benefits. “Firstly, the style of scale wineries. lined square, round or rectangular vats fitted fermentation is quite different with amphora into the space that was available. Concrete and the way the yeast mix within the must and Small oak barrels are used for fermenting was viewed as old fashioned and give a fermentation occurs. With the vessels being white wines and are an essential method winery that historic or ‘un-renovated’ look. lined with beeswax it forms an anaerobic in producing wines like chardonnay that However, many of Australia’s best wines are environment. With the ability to seal the don’t rely on primary fruit characters. Small still made in these types of vats. Concrete amphora after fermentation is complete it amounts of oxygen enter through the bung gives me the ability to leave wines on skins holes and staves, and when the bung is and whole bunch for a long period. The anaerobic conditions of the vessel gives a brightness to the wine and leaving it on skins 18 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

for up to 8 months delivers a very different Uniquely and precise tannin structure without it being Yorke hard and bitter.” Peninsula This reminds me of the delicious Vin Santo Cellar Door and Function Centre of Tuscany where the small barrels, known Open 7 days 10am-5pm as caratelli, are sealed and left to ferment for up to three years. Maitland, South Australia Phone (08) 8834 1258 Staying in Geelong, winemaker Dwayne Cunningham from Austin’s Wines uses barleystackswines.com his 620-litre concrete egg to produce his Curated Shiraz. “We use the concrete eggs for fermentation of red wine on skins. Typically, we will destem, with a portion of handpicked fruit, and place it directly into the egg” he explains. The wine spends approximately 21 days on skins, with gentle plunging twice a day. “As concrete is porous, the ferment will naturally breath over this period. Natural oxygen ingress through the concrete is really beneficial and rarely do I see hydrogen sulphide in these ferments. No temperature control is applied as the concrete insulates much more efficiently than stainless-steel. The must will almost cold soak as the natural yeast slowly begin the fermentation process. Typically, wild yeast in concrete takes a day or two longer to begin than wild stainless-steel ferments,” he adds. From this treatment Dwayne gets more roundness in his wine. “I am aiming for mouthfeel, texture and hopefully gather a hint of slaty tannin. They generally show more of that vivacious Cab Mac character, but also show some subtle stalk character. Historically I have seen less of the green herbaceous stalk character than wines fermented in stainless steel with similar proportions of whole bunch.” Robin thinks it is still early days, which in a way, is exciting. “My view is you can use any variety you wish but it comes down to how you utilise the vessel and the style you wish to achieve. It’s all about the structure of the wine and its purity of flavour. We have a long way still to go on how we use amphoras.” September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING VIVA VANCOUVER - AUTUMN TOURING WITH GOURMET CUISINE, CRAFT BEERS AND NORTH-WEST PACIFIC WINES THE east coast of North America has fleecy sweater for both sexes in the cooler restaurants in Germany and a stint at the snared nearly all the publicity centred on months of the year. But the gourmet food celebrated Noma in Copenhagen. The the glories of touring during the Fall foliage scene has grown by geometric progression restaurant is split into two areas - the season. But British Columbia is also a hot over the past 20 years. Published on Main solarium with a more casual vibe and the spot for watching Autumn leaves turn red, was voted Canada’s Best Restaurant for wood-panelled dining room. The curated yellow or fiery orange. Vancouver makes 2022. The St Lawrence restaurant took out wine list centres on low intervention a great base to begin a journey through the third spot in this year’s rankings and wines from Canada and around the world one of nature’s most visually arresting overseen by Jayton Paul, the 2022 British spectacles, with the blaze of hues starting Nicknamed Raincouver, Columbian Sommelier of the Year, who from mid-September. caught the wine bug during a backpacking the coastal city is trip to New Zealand. Nicknamed Raincouver, the coastal city is encircled by mountains and is full of encircled by mountains The menu is seasonal, of course, and Insta-worthy coves and inlets. The bustling, listing descriptions are kept simple even culturally diverse port also has a major and is full of Insta- though the finished dishes are artworks - craft beer scene and is only a few hours’ aebleskiver (Danish pancake balls), wagyu drive from the vineyards and wineries of the worthy coves and inlets. beef carpaccio, Published fried chicken, Okanagan Valley and Vancouver Island. Fraser Valley duck and jaegerschnitzel. The bustling, culturally Not to be missed and book before you Any guidebook or website will wax leave Australia. lyrical about Vancouver’s main attractions diverse port also has a - Canada Place, the Seawall, English Bay You will have to dress up for Hawksworth, and trendy Gastown and Yaletown. But major craft beer scene one of Vancouver’s most glam restaurants. for foodies Granville Island is a major Modern Canadian cuisine with Asian magnet. Technically a peninsula, the area and is only a few hours flourishes is chef David Hawksworth’s is full of seafood restaurants and also guiding star from the constantly changing hosts one of the best fresh food markets drive from the vineyards tasting menu to stalwarts like Korean in North America. Don’t be in too much of glazed ling cod with orange lassi. a rush, the Granville Island Public Market and wineries of the is a vast spread of seafood, artisanal Laidback elegance is the prevailing cheeses and charcuterie and takes a Okanagan Valley and mood at Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster good half day to explore. Bar in the iconic Sutton Place hotel in Vancouver Island. downtown Vancouver. Chef Alex Chen Vancouver is a serious oyster town whips up innovative offerings such as and “buck-a-shuck” happy hours are an Boulevard Kitchen came in at ninth spot to halibut with charcoal, carrot puree and institution in the city’s hundreds of oyster give Vancouver three out of the top 10 best kombu butter sauce. bars. For aficionados, Rodney’s Oyster restaurants in Canada. House in Yaletown is a one-stop shop for Hidekazu Tojo’s upmarket sushi pulls in more than 20 native oyster species such as Published on Main is helmed by Gus celebs and foodies alike. His eponymously kusshi, black pearl and Pacific kiss. Stieffenhofer-Brandson, a Manitoban who named restaurant - Tojo’s - is widely honed his skills at several Michelin-starred regarded as the top Japanese restaurant Vancouverites dress down in the main in Canada. It’s claimed that the famed and the local “costume” is a puffer jacket or Californian roll was invented here, using 20 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

luxurious Dungeness crab. But if you want journey. Vines have been planted here CONNECT ON SOCIAL to sample French Canadian fare without since the 1920s but things really started WITH WINESTATE travelling to the other side of the second moving about 30 years ago. Thanks to largest country on the planet, St Lawrence innovative young winemakers, Vancouver www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine dishes up a rustic Quebecois decor and Island now boasts 30 wineries and is also twitter.com/winestateed top-class country-style dishes such as home to the provincial capital, Victoria, so grilled beef with bone marrow and frites a three day tour is a worthwhile side trip. www.instagram.com/winestate/ and trout almandine. Church & State Wines is Vancouver island’s Follow us and keep up to date with all our Fusion taken to the next level is the largest winery and is surrounded with latest wine info, tastings, competitions and cash-in-hand at Kissa Tanto. The interior stunning scenery. The Foundation Sauvignon events on facebook, twitter and instagram. is retro Japanese jazz bar and the menu Blanc is a standout with bright acidity and ripe blends Japanese and Italian elements. mango and passionfruit notes. Think gnocco fritto with kombu dashi and agnolotti with Tokyo leek, confit gizzard Sea Star Vineyards is one of the most and tare sauce. unique wineries in the area - one of the growing areas is on Mount Menzies and the Vancouver was an early adopter of the other slopes down to a beach. Tastings and craft beer craze and the city is awash tours are available daily and some of the with micro-breweries. Super Flux Beer award-winning varietals include riesling, Company in Clark Drive is as famous for its pinot noir and pinot gris. hot dogs as its beers. Top brews include Color & Shape, a hazy brew with hints of The Cowichan Valley is Canada at its citrus and herbs, and Double Infinity IPA. most majestic. That’s where you will also Strathcona Beer Company is located in find Enrico Winery, whose wines have Vancouver’s oldest neighbourhood and is been awarded the Lieutenant Governor’s a world beater. You will be keeping your Award of Excellence in British Columbia. phone busy recording images of the decor There’s a wide variety of fruit whites and - neon everywhere - and for the standout big reds to sample but be sure to try the brews such as Smash Bombs Double IPA. Charme de L’ Ile sparkling wine made by the Charmat method used in prosecco Luppolo Brewing Co is an Italian-inspired making - soft and fruity with hints of craft brewery with a top-class pizzeria. strawberry and grapefruit. The most-ordered brews are gose with lime, New World Sour and Vivace Saison a moreish pale ale with mandarin undertones. The Okanagan Valley is far and away British Columbia’s most famous wine region, but it’s a five-hour drive from Vancouver. Vancouver Island is much closer - take a train from downtown and then catch a ferry for the 90-minute onward September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 21

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G u m pa r a W i n e s Casts Its Spell NIGEL HOPKINS MARK Mader wouldn’t be the first sixth generation Barossa The Mader family settled on 25ha (60 acres) on the eastern hillsides grapegrower to decide it was time to add winemaking to grape of the Barossa Valley, beside the North Para River. Just outside the growing, having seen his ancient vines underpin some of the Ebenezer and Stockwell areas, it’s never managed to become a region’s most famous wines for many decades. recognised sub-region, but Mader believes the exceptional quality of its fruit – long recognised by Peter Lehmann – has been seriously But in Mader’s case that decision wasn’t driven by any financial under-appreciated. aspirations, to get a better share of the value produced by those grapes. He says he already had a longstanding and very happy Initially the family, like others in the region, were mixed famers with relationship with Peter Lehmann Wines, now owned by the Casella a few vines for their own use, but over time the rich soils of red clay, group, to buy his grapes. pink marble and ironstone over a limestone base, with patches of terra rossa soil, gave grape growing the winning edge. For many years he’d been happy to hold on to just enough grapes to make a barrel or two of wine for his family and friends, but as that Now the whole block is planted to vines, mostly from 30 to 90 years demand grew he decided it was time to get a producer’s licence old, with semillon planted in 1925, shiraz dating from 1956 and early and things grew from there – until in 2000 he produced his first 90s, grenache 1963 and cabernet sauvignon in the late 1980s on the wine under the Gumpara label (“gum” for the splendid gums lining terra rossa soil of the flats rather than the slopes. the North Para River in the north-east corner of Light Pass, and “para” the indigenous name for river). The relationship that grew between the Mader family and Peter Lehmann Wines is important. Mark’s father James and his grandfather Mader’s story now goes in two directions – both back to the were responsible for most of the vine plantings, and it was James who start, when his Prussian refugee forebears fleeing religious was one of 140 growers who, during a grape glut in the late 1970s, persecution arrived in the Barossa in 1856, and to the present, threw in their lot with the late Peter Lehmann in has famous bid to when the grapes they planted have resulted in extraordinary save his community by setting up his own winery, Masterson Wines. wines of world class quality, including a shiraz now regarded Everything was done on a handshake, as it often still is, and the now as a close rival to Penfold’s Grange. legendary Lehmann valued his growers above everything else. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 23

Not much surprise, then, that Mark should later find himself working at Peter Lehmann Wines earning a bit of extra cash during vintage as a cellar hand, then later developing winemaking skills under respected winemakers such as Andrew Wigan. He ended up spending 18 vintages with Lehmanns. But by 2000 Mark Mader was ready to take a big step: “The first wine I’d made, the Victor’s Old Vine Shiraz, was quite a good wine and I thought I could improve on it. It became a quest of sorts, to produce world standard wines from the north-east Light’s Pass region.” Mader’s story now goes in two directions- both back to the start, when his Prussian refugee forebears fleeing religious persecution arrived in the Barossa in 1856, and to the present, when the grapes they planted have resulted in extraordinary wines of world class quality. Central to this is Mark’s wife Mandy, a consultant viticulturist for Previous pages: Mark Mader in the vineyard, the vineyard at sunset. Barossa and Eden Valley growers. Highly qualified and respected This page top to bottom: Freshly cut vines in the vineyard, view of Gumpara in her field, Mandy was awarded Barossa Viticulturist of the Year heritage vineyard, interior of Gumpara cellar door. 2022 by the Barons of Barossa. Originally from the Adelaide Hills, she had been studying for an arts/economics degree when she Opposite page top to bottom: Sampling the wines, testing the wine in barrels, met Mark, which led to her changing to viticulture and eventually Mark and Mandy in the vineyard. participating in the management of the family heritage vineyard. Some of the wines are named after family ancestors and local characters. There would be Frieda’s Old Vine Semillon and Conrad Cabernet Sauvignon, The Bakehouse and Mader Reserve Shiraz, all of which have scored highly in Winestate tastings. But the 24 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

standout has been The Hexen Shiraz, the name given to so-called witches, these days you’d call them naturopaths or homeopaths, one of whom, Mutter Jaekel, once lived nearby. That magical nature has certainly been built into The Hexen, which has won the highest praise from Winestate’s judges with the 2014 vintage named runner-up to Grange in a previous World’s Greatest Shiraz/Syrah Challenge. Now the 2015 vintage – only the second vintage of this wine to be released – is again a contender, with the 2016 vintage only now about to be released. The making of The Hexen follows a very Grange-like regime, although as a single vineyard wine rather than a regional blend. Mader attributes this to former Penfolds winemaker Neville Falkenburg, who was the consultant winemaker for Hexen. “Neville persuaded me to put a barrel aside for a really high-end wine,” Mader says. “Grapes are fermented first in the tank, then barrel-fermented in new French oak. There’s only light pressing – we look for that really sweet spot in the pressing, then it goes into new American oak for two years before bottle ageing. There’s a lot of oak involved and it needs that extra time in bottle before release.” Only 400 bottles of The Hexen were made from that 2014 vintage, with 700 bottles the following year, with similar numbers since then – an expensive wine to make and not much of it, hence its $240 price tag. The Maders remain a small, devoted family business with two daughters, Opal and Abi, in their early 20s waiting in the wings for when they can find time from their high-end sporting involvement to join the business. A cellar door built four years ago, full of heritage character, has given them a more public face, although still by appointment. And Mark and Mandy, and their family, continue that “quest of sorts” to produce world class wines of the finest quality from their heritage vineyard. They’re certainly getting there. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 25

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SILVER SPOON ESTATE: THE PERFECT BLEND OF WINE AND PERSONALITY This 100% off-grid Heathcote winery produces wine exploration experiences, humour, and a gracefully floral shiraz. MEGAN BLANDFORD THE SHIRAZ WHERE EAST MEETS WEST WHEN Peter and Tracie Young asked themselves what to do in their Heathcote is in central Victoria, just 90 minutes from Melbourne transition to retirement, there was just one answer: wine. and 30 minutes from Bendigo. The Heathcote wine region is famous for two things: its ancient red Cambrian soil and the rich shiraz “I asked Peter what he wanted to do in his retirement,” Tracie says, produced by winemakers throughout the area. “and he came up with the concept of buying a property, planting some grapes and having a fit and healthy lifestyle. We also liked Silver Spoon Estate is a destination Cellar Door, bistro and winery the idea that we’d keep utilising our business and marketing skills.” that makes the most of both those famous traits, growing five different types of shiraz, as well as viognier, grenache, mourvèdre It was around this time that the couple tasted Heathcote shiraz and tempranillo. at an event. This prompted them to visit Heathcote, and Peter’s geology and science background made him realise this area held Their location in the heart of the Heathcote wine region is 15 the perfect land for their winemaking ambitions. Both Tracie and minutes out of the Heathcote township, provides an interesting Peter felt right at home in this laidback region, so they purchased character to the fruit. “We’re on both sides of the ridge, so we have their acreage in 2008. east-facing and north-west facing vineyards at different elevations,” Peter says. “It’s all gently sloping, so we don’t get frost and the It was this land, complete with mining history, trees that are over soils are well-drained.” 200 years old, and registered Aboriginal sacred sites, that would become Silver Spoon Estate. With 20 hectares under vine planted It’s the perfect growing conditions for bold reds, including the in 1999/2000 and the couple planting 2.5 hectares in 2009, they award-winning 2018 Hallmark Shiraz. “The flavour profile of the have been busy upgrading their winery, and building a new off- Hallmark is unmistakeably Heathcote: the dark blood plum, the grid cellar door and bistro in 2021. “We’re very respectful to the spice, the floral aromatics, the complexity and depth, long finish, land,” Tracie says. “We’re the custodians for a short period of time and a wine that will gracefully age for 20 years or more,” Peter says. in history and we want to respect that. And here we are, 13 years later, working seven days a week and loving it.” “The Hallmark is made from fruit that’s dry grown on our vineyards, in the Cambrian soil here. It has components from different blocks on the east side and the west side of the hill of different clones of shiraz picked over 14 days and then blended to taste.” September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 27

“Silver Spoon Estate is 100% off-grid with full sustainability practices including the cellar door, winery and home on the Estate generating its own electricity, harvesting rain water off the roofs, utilising septic beds and only requiring the purchase of gas for cooking and hot water.” 28 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

It’s this blending that is a passion in Peter’s winemaking. “In Australia, we’re too hung up on single varietals. If you look at Europe, the top wines in Bordeaux, for example, are designated by the locality they come from and they can have a range of varieties and combinations in there,” Peter says. At Silver Spoon Estate, the blends are a nod to the European style that Peter and Tracie love to travel and taste. “Blending is one of the most important things we do, whether it’s blending shiraz with shiraz, or blending grenache with shiraz. Blending builds complexity and develops different styles of flavour profiles which make wines interesting.” They do a shiraz viognier and a GSM (grenache, shiraz, mourvèdre), two classical Rhone Valley styles. They also have a soft spot for their GST (that’s grenache, shiraz, tempranillo—not a tax). “The GST came from a trip to Spain,” says Peter. “We came back and decided to try a new blend—we call it Death and Taxes.” The couple laughs at their joke in the name, and it’s this humour which contributes to the charm of Silver Spoon Estate. “It’s about personality,” Tracie says. “Some people can’t pronounce some of the names, so if you give wines a style and then give them names that suit that personality, it’s easier for people to relate to. People pick up on that and they come back for that, because the wine’s personality suits their palate.” Peter adds, “The sense of humour takes some of the mystique away, to make wine more drinkable and fun. People who are interested in wine can come here and explore them”. EXPERIENCES THAT ENCOURAGE EXPLORATION At Silver Spoon Estate, this exploration is part of the experience that Peter and Tracie have created as part of their sustainable philosophy. In the peaceful space, visitors love to watch the sheep, kangaroos and the gang of cockatoos that are regulars. And their cellar door wine tastings aren’t what you might expect. “We do sit down wine tastings with the winemakers, with six wines on tasting,” Tracie says. “We also do wine and food pairing with a seasonal menu that regularly changes. I love to see people unwinding and relaxing in this space, and just enjoying it.” They also run an in-depth winemaking exploration program called My First Crush. Tracie says, “We have a very small selection of people who become winemakers with us for a season, so they’re with us for about a year-and-a-half to make a barrel of shiraz. They go through all the processes with us: picking, crushing, pressing, blending, bottling and labelling. It really changes the way they see wine and buy wine. We have a great spectrum of people from their 20s to their 70s that come on the journey with us.” Here, it’s all about great wine, delicious food, beautiful vistas, relaxation and a sense of fun. Which is really the perfect blend of ingredients for a great day out in regional Victoria. Previous pages: Peter and Tracie Young in the winery, wine with a view exterior of cellar door, kangaroos in the vineyard and Silver Spoon Estate range of wines. Opposite page top to bottom: Range of Silver Spoon Estate wines, cellar door tasting experience and Tracie with some happy customers. Right top to bottom: Exterior of Silver Spoon Estate, interior of cellar door and wine and food platter by the fire. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 29

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Cooler Than Cool Welcome to the Macedon Ranges MEGAN BLANDFORD IT was love at first sight when Andrew and Kyneton Ridge Estate produces fine Angela Wood saw Kyneton Ridge Estate. wines including a pinot noir, chardonnay, “We fell in love with the scenery at the Macedon Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay winery, and with the Macedon region,” and shiraz. All the wines are made by Andrew says. Patrick Wood, who honed his winemaking skills in Bordeaux and the Yarra Valley. The couple had been searching in other wine regions for the perfect property and “There are two varieties that Macedon business opportunity when they stumbled stands out for: pinot noir and chardonnay,” upon the Macedon Ranges by accident. says Andrew. “It’s also a fantastic region Andrew says that, as well as feeling right for sparkling wines: you get lovely, intense at home there, they knew the winery they’d fruit with good acid that produces beautiful found was capable of great things. “We sparkling wine.” were really impressed with the quality of the wine coming out of the Macedon region, Perhaps surprisingly from this region, it’s which gave us a lot of hope for being able the 2020 Shiraz that is currently receiving to make great wines here.” accolades. “We get our shiraz from Heathcote,” Andrew says. “It’s from a The first vines were planted at Kyneton particular set of rows in a vineyard that Ridge Estate in 1997 and, since purchasing has been growing our fruit (for the shiraz) the property and the business in 2019, for a decade, so we know the fruit really Andrew and Angela have doubled the well. It has good intensity, it’s picked at acreage under vine and undertaken a perfect ripeness, and it makes a really major renovation. lovely shiraz.” September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 31

It’s a region known for its cool-climate pinot noir and chardonnay, but we’ve also spotted a beautifully intense shiraz that’s made in Victoria’s Macedon Ranges at Kyneton Ridge Estate. 32 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

Great wine starts in that the vines are brochure,” Andrew says. “Instead, we do the vineyard growing in. “We seated tastings. It’s an opportunity to sit have small vines that and talk to people, introducing them to our An easy hour’s drive from Melbourne, are working very hard, wines and to this beautiful property. We love Kyneton Ridge Estate is elevated in the growing small bunches of meeting people from all over the country, cool Victorian climate. intense fruit,” says Andrew. and all over the world, including our great “This means we’re constantly local following who come back all the time.” “We’re at 550 metres above sea level, monitoring the soil condition in the coldest wine region in mainland and adding organic compost and Up next for Kyneton Ridge Estate is Australia,” Andrew says. These cool organic supplements to it. It’s very a trial of some new varieties. “We’ve temperatures produce “fresh and complex fragile soil, so we have to be very planted riesling, nebbiolo and cabernet chardonnay and pinot noir. It’s a long, slow careful. We use regenerative practices, in the last year and a half,” Andrew ripening period, and we generally pick making sure the vineyard has good, green says. “We’re making the cabernet at the quite late, so the fruit retains a lot of natural grass cover all year round, giving good moment and finding that it has the weight acid which generates beautifully intense carbon addition to the soil right through the of a southern European wine rather than but light styles of wine”. year and continuing to feed the plants, and a traditional Australian cabernet, which is combining that with pruning and training really exciting.” The vineyard is farmed with the use and careful attention to the vines. That’s of organic compost and biodynamic something we’ll continue to work on.” When you open a bottle of Kyneton Ridge principles, without using chemical Estate wine, Andrew and Angela hope pesticides or herbicides. “Great wine starts Quality wines and you taste the cool, complex and, above in the vineyard,” Andrew says. “We follow quality family time all, welcoming Macedon Ranges region. organic principles, managing the transition Andrew says, “We try to produce wines to a biodynamically strong vineyard that Kyneton Ridge is a family affair: Andrew that reflect the region, and which highlight doesn’t need any support in other ways. and Angela’s son is their chief winemaker, the love, care and attention that’s gone into The healthier the vines are and the stronger and their two daughters are also involved their production”. and healthier the environment they’re in, the in the business. This means that, along less disease and insect pressure you get, with making quality wines, the focus of Previous pages: Aerial view of Kyneton Ridge, and that’s where we aspire to be. It’s a long the Estate is on having quality family time. Kyneton Ridge team at vintage time. process, but that’s what we’re working on.” Opposite page top to bottom: Kyneton Ridge cellar This enjoyment in what they do is evident door, the Kyneton Ridge Artspace, interior of Kyneton He adds, “This attention to the vines in visitors’ experiences, with Kyneton Ridge Ridge cellar door. means the fruit is getting better every year”. Estate known for generous and warm Top left to right: Kyneton Ridge winery, exterior of the hospitality that makes the trip off the beaten Kyneton Ridge cellar door. This doesn’t come without its challenges, track more than worthwhile. in particular the tricky granitic sand The venue includes a newly designed café that serves a southern European inspired menu, including share plates, pizza, desserts, coffee and, of course, wine. Within the café sits an art space, combining two of Angela’s big passions: cooking and art. Add wine to the mix and you have the perfect trio. The result is a modern setting with a relaxed atmosphere and a personalised touch that extends to the wine tasting experience. “In the cellar door, we’ve gone away from the line-up along the bar with a September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 33

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&Diversity wCirtheVataivriiettieys DENIS GASTIN I have always been fascinated by the and touriga nacional – and two diversity, creativity and sometimes new white varieties – alvarinho and eccentricity that characterises the liliorila. But these new varieties will wine industry, globally. only be permitted for use in wines of the broader regional classifications, Wherever you go you will find grape not the premium categories, and growers and winemakers looking for they will be limited to just 5% of an ways to achieve better outcomes estate’s total surface area and no in their vineyards and wineries - more than 10% of any blend in either for smoother management, better red or white wines. business returns and to develop pleasing wine styles to keep their In Australia, by contrast, varietal customer base turned on. In more experimentation has been much recent years a driving force for more open and innovative, for the different approaches to vineyard whole history of viticulture here. management has been the focus Yes, a small number of varieties do on climate change. account for a very high proportion of varieties grown. Just 3 varieties One of the best tools they can - shiraz, chardonnay and cabernet work with is the massive range of sauvignon - accounted for 60% of all grape varieties that are a feature grapes crushed in the 2021 vintage. of this industry. In the ‘New World’, varietal experimentation has been But the varietal spectrum extends happening for a long time and, way beyond this. I have been more recently, has been gaining maintaining a list of the varieties momentum in response to the I have found in Australian wines impact of climate change. In the ‘Old over the past couple of decades, World’, however, varietal diversity has been severely restrained either as stand-alone varietals or in blends, and it now stands by long-standing strict regulations to ‘protect’ regional identity by at a surprising total of 246 different varieties. The list has been permitting the use of only a very small number of grape varieties. growing quite rapidly over the past 5 years. Climate change is just one driving force for varietal shifts. But customer preferences are But the focus on climate change is causing a re-think on this also a strong driver. Drinkers are welcoming the style diversity that and there have been marginal changes in some regions to allow varieties deliver. And the list will continue to grow, of course, given different varieties to be used to cope better with altered growth the commitment of industry players to do better, or differently, and cycles and ripening periods. we don’t have regulations restricting varietal choices. Among the large number of recent additions to the varietal Even in France, where the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) spectrum in Australia is one very rare variety with a very colourful system has ruled out varietal change in major regions over a very long story behind it – set by a grower in a small region in France who period, regulations are now being slightly eased in some regions. gallantly defied the local AOC that prohibited any wine made totally from this particular variety from using the regional name. The Early this year in Bordeaux, for example, after research by local variety is tannat, the region is Madiran (south of Bordeaux) and the scientists on an extensive range of possible alternative varieties, the national agricultural governing body (INAO), approved limited local use of four new red varieties – arinarnoa, castets, marselan September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 35

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In Australia, by contrast, varietal experimentation has been much more open and innovative, for the whole history of viticulture here. colourful winemaker who challenged the system is Alain Brumont, In the Eden Valley we took the proposition to Jim Irvine, the master the owner of the now very well-respected Chateaux Montus and of achievement with merlot. I had thought that a splash of tannat Bouscassé vineyards. would add a firm note to merlot and Jim thought it might be worth a try, but not as a single variety wine. There are still tannat vines We had met, initially, at wine trade fairs in various locations in the Irvine vineyard, though now in other hands. in Asia in the early 1990s. Until I met him, I had no knowledge whatsoever of the tannat variety and only a faint awareness of In the years since then, curious minds in the Australian wine the Madiran Region. But Alain’s robust commitment to get AOC industry have built a presence for tannat in the local varietal regulations changed to permit 100% tannat wines under the spectrum. Both the area planted and the annual crush of tannat Madiran appellation got me very interested and I sought him out grapes are still modest but the high level of interest is obvious in the at any wine trade fair I was attending around that time. Of course, wide geographic spread of plantings and the number of wineries the quality of his wines was a powerful draw card for me too. working with this variety. I set out then to see if there was anyone in the Australian industry There are at least 30 wineries that have been working with who might have known about tannat or might even have given it a tannat in Australia: some just experimentally and others that try in a vineyard at some stage. I wasn’t able to find anyone then, have commercially released tannat, either as straight varietals though I do know now that Symphonia Fine Wines, a small family or in blends (mostly with merlot, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz or winery in Victoria’s cool climate King Valley region, was moving grenache). Almost half are in South Australia – including in the in that direction at the time and was probably the first Australian Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale and Barossa. The next highest winery to release a tannat wine. So, I started talking about the number is in New South Wales, in six regions, including in the possibility of tannat with some of my respected friends in the Hunter Valley. Four are in Victoria, three in Queensland and one industry and came up with a few who were interested to hear more in Western Australia. and would give it careful thought. The climatic and soil conditions are, therefore, very diverse. Then I asked Alain whether he thought the variety would be The largest plantings are in the warm Riverina, Murray Darling suitable to any particular area in this vast continent, but he was not and Riverland irrigation regions but it is also being grown in cool familiar with the options and he said he would come and address regions, such as King Valley and Beechworth. Perhaps more that question directly. So, in December 2000, we began a tour of surprising is that it is doing particularly well in New England, the south-east of the continent, beginning with a warmer climate northern NSW, and in the Granite Belt, southern Queensland. The option, in the Hunter Valley (New South Wales), and ending up with two Granite Belt producers, Boireann and Just Red, have won a cooler option, in the Eden Valley (South Australia). There were serious recognition for their tannat wines in competitions. Another various other options in between that would also be investigated, strong performer, Toppers Mountain, is located not so far away, in of course. But we had two very appropriate contacts to start with the New England Region of Northern New South Wales. in those two locations. While in Australia, Alain also conducted tastings of his own wines In the Hunter Valley we took the proposition to John Davis, a for wine critics and importers and distributors. But selling tannat contact with a big portfolio in the industry: including Pepper Tree, wines, at that time, when it was totally unknown here, was a hard Briar Ridge and Tallavera Grove in the Hunter and vineyards in call. Now, however, the uptake of locally produced tannat wines cool climate Orange in Central NSW as well as in Coonawarra and has directed wine drinkers’ interests to the source of the variety, Wrattonbully in South Australia. John was interested and decided and wines from Madiran, including Alain’s benchmark labels, have he would give it a try and got it happening very quickly. Not long won a modest spot in the Australian market. after that John hosted Alain’s son, Clement, for a vintage in the Hunter. After several vintages and a release under the Pepper The enthusiasm for tannat by Australian producers in such a Tree label, though, John concluded it wasn’t going to deliver the short time frame does underline the openness to change of the outcomes he wanted and it stopped there – although John says regulatory system in Australia, as well as the productive creativity that there are surviving vines, but no Pepper Tree Tannat wine. of grape growers and winemakers. Page 34 top to bottom: Exterior of Château Bouscassé, barrels at Château Bouscassé, bicycle with Château Bouscassé wine bottles, lunch and wine tasting at Château Bouscassé and reception at Château Bouscassé. Page 35: Interior of Château Montus. Opposite page: Aerial view of Château Bouscassé, exterior reception of Caveau de Bouscassé, overlooking the French vineyards, exterior of Château Montus and de Bouscassé wine tasting. Above: Alain Brumont, the owner of Chateaux Montus and Bouscassé vineyards. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 37

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AUSTRIA’S DYNAMIC LANDSCAPE CHARLES GENT GALVANISED by a recently rejigged appellation system and shaped by a new generation of winemakers who are determined to revivify indigenous grape varieties and traditions informed by their mastery of modern styles, Austrian wines are looking to take on the world. And they have plenty of natural advantages to exploit. Having looked at the country’s dominant region of Lower Austria in the previous issue of Winestate, it’s well worth casting an eye over the rest of this increasingly dynamic winegrowing nation. The capital city of Austria, Vienna, which sits at the hub of the country’s largest wine region, Niederösstereich (Lower Austria), also has the surprising distinction of being a subregion in its own right. Wien, the wine region, is characterised by a remarkable survival: flouting the customary eradication of historic vines close to major city centres by housing subdivision, hundreds of vineyards continue to operate within the capital’s perimeter, both among the tramlines as well as in the foothills. Nearly 600 hectares of Wien’s wine “suburbs” remain in production. The vineyards usually exist to feed the renowned Viennese wine taverns or heuriger, cellar-door venues that arose from an ancient system that guaranteed winemakers the right to sell wine untaxed provided it was made from their own fruit. The cheerful heuriger are heavily frequented by both locals and tourists, and specialise in young, fruity wines. Wiener Gemischter Satz, a revived form of the traditional multi-varietal field blend, is particularly popular. Away to the south-east of Wien and immediately south of the Lower Austria region, lies Burgenland. The uber-region, which stretches down along Austria’s eastern border with Hungary, is responsible for roughly a third of the national wine production. Burgenland comprises five constituent wine regions: Neusiedlersee, Leithaberg, Mittelburgenland, Rosalia and Eisenberg. Together, their vineyards cover some 12,248 hectares. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 39

Wien, the wine region, is characterised by a remarkable survival: flouting the customary eradication of historic vines close to major city centres by housing subdivision, hundreds of vineyards continue to operate within the capital’s perimeter, both among the tramlines as well as in the foothills. 40 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

With as many as 300 sunny days a year, Burgenland is the resting on slate. Its DAC wines are dedicated to earthy and warmest of Austria’s wine regions and gets hot in real, not just long-lived blaufränkisch. Eisenberg also makes crisp, fruity relative, terms; summer temperatures frequently reach 30˚C. white wines, mainly from welschriesling and weissburgunder. Responding to the comparative warmth of the climate, red wine One local oddity is Uhudler, a usually pink wine characterised production overtook white in 2009, and the two traditional varieties by an aroma of strawberries. of blaufränkisch and zweigelt now account for 40 per cent of the area under vine. Plantings of white grapes favour grüner veltliner Styria, or more properly Steiermark, is located along Austria’s and welschriesling, each occupying about 10 per cent. southern border with Slovenia, and is made up of three unequally sized parts, the subregions of Vulkanland Steiermark, The eponymous central feature of the Neusiedlersee region is Südsteiermark and Weststeiermark, which were all accorded the vast, shallow and fog-prone expanse of Lake Neusiedl. The DAC appellation status in 2018. lake is rightly celebrated for its consistent capacity to encourage the development of noble rot, Botrytis cinerea, and the lakeside While unquestionably more vertiginous and generally cooler town of Rust has been renowned for centuries for its luscious than Austria’s other regions, Styria’s 4,323 hectares of vines grow Ruster Ausbruch. Modern exponents of the dessert style continue in a variety of terroirs. In terms of varieties, indigenous grapes to shine, at least when they can keep flocks of marauding rub shoulders with more modern imports; welschriesling (oddly, starlings at bay. In the Seewinkel locale on the opposite shore, the grape is unrelated to riesling) occupies 16 per cent of total Trockenbeerenauslese wines are made from a range of traditional plantings, with sauvignon blanc at 14 per cent, weissburgunder grapes as well as pinot gris and chardonnay. To the south, along 12 per cent and chardonnay, seven. In the reds, blauer wildbacher the Hungarian border, reds made from zweigelt are the most has 10 per cent and zweigelt 7.6 per cent. prominent contributors to Neusiedlersee’s DAC wines. Possessed of rolling green hills strikingly picturesque even by Leithaberg, a smaller region to the west of the great lake, has Austrian standards, Styria is dotted with winery-run taverns, here distinctive slate and mica-enriched limestone soils primarily known as buschenbank. One distinctive aspect of winegrowing in dedicated to the production of blaufränkisch-based reds. It is also Südsteiermark is the seasonal sight (and sound) of the klapotetz known for white wines made from weissburgunder, chardonnay, or wind-rattles, eight-bladed wooden windmills which produce a neuberger and gruner veltliner. percussive racket to scare starlings away from ripening grapes. South of Leithaberg and graduating to DAC appellation status While the hefty flavours of welschriesling dominate Styria’s from its 2017 vintage, Rosalia sits on the eastern slopes of the production statistically, in terms of quality sauvignon blanc mountain range from which it takes its name. Winemaking is and traminer have emerged as the heroes in Vulkanland dedicated to reds, principally blaufränkisch and zweigelt, as well Steiermark. Sauvignon blanc (sometimes in its youthful Steirer as the production of dry rosé. Klassic form, sometimes aged and wooded) is also top of the tree in Südsteiermark, while the region’s chardonnays are Further south again, the undulating Mittelburgenland region is prized for their high natural acidity. In Weststeiermark, much another beneficiary of the warm winds generated by the Pannonian of the blauer wildbacher crush is harnessed to the production plain, and its deep clay and loam soils rest on schist and gneiss. of lively Schilcher rosés. Its DAC classification wines are confined to those made from blaufränkisch. Wines made from St Laurent, cabernet sauvignon Styria’s leading winemakers say they are looking increasingly to and pinot noir appear under Burgenland’s generic appellation. create elegance and minerality in their wines, and the precepts of organic, biodynamic and ‘natural’ winemaking are also making Eisenberg, sitting on Austria’s south-eastern corner, also their presence felt. enjoys the diurnal swings deriving from the Pannonian influence, and its vineyards typically sit low on slopes rich in iron and It is, unquestionably, an exciting time to discover Austrian wine. Above: Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, Gols. Opposite right: Burgenland, Rosalia, Pöttelsdorf. Previous pages: Ried Klein Csater, Kohfidisch, Eisenberg, Burgenland. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 41

BEST OF A Beautiful Bunch 42 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

PETER SIMIC How it Works: Shiraz & Blends Category Under $20 Each year Winestate conducts its annual Two panels of three wine industry peer Prices are creeping up but quality is still judging of premium shiraz and syrah judges evaulated the wines blind over hard to find at this price. Unfortunately wines in various price categories. two days. Each wine was presented to the heavy cropping of fruit to justify the cost Australia is the leading producer of judges in anonymous rows of unidentified is the main problem. As they say “you shiraz, making up around 20% of all glasses within specific price ranges. can’t make a silk purse out of a sows ear!” wines produced. Each wine was scored independently The judges didn’t expect world beaters by each judge, the scores collated and but clean simple vibrant wines without We normally like to add imported wines using our “majority rules” system a final faults would have been good. Fortunately for diversity but this year it was very score was achieved and translated into there were enough wines that did make difficult to source these with freight issues a star rating and points rating. the cut and these should be commended. and lack of supply. This also combined with local issues which resulted in a The Winners: Shiraz & Blends Category slimmed down version of our usual $20 - $25 blockbuster efforts. Readers may be surprised that some of A step up and these days the best option the yardstick wines did not make the Top in the value category. More than half were However, we are pleased to report a solid Ten but with panels of three judges and recommended, which is a good start. The judging of 319 wines and importantly wines judged blind it is no surprise to us. lesser wines had more oak than fruit to these represented the full gamut of pump up the flavours but lost vibrancy low to high prices thereby offering As we often say if you win an award as a result. The better wines although recommendations for all buyers. with Winestate you have earned it. young, were blanced with some nice Congratulations must go to the Barossa’s savoury edges. As well as the Category Winners we Paulmara Estates 2020 Aveti Shiraz, a produced a Top Ten list based on the superb example worthy of the highest Shiraz & Blends Category overall points scored by the individual accolade. A worthy runner up was $25 - $30 judges. All of these scored a minimum of the Silver Spoon Estate The Hallmark The biggest category, judged accross five stars or 98 points and there was very Premium Heathcote 2020 Shiraz. It is three flights. This was clearly the “money little separation between them. interesting to note that in the group of section” and the wines delivered. For the Top Ten winners Barossa Valley again younger 2021-2020 wines there were Here we see that there are some great dominated with seven winners, Clare more dry reds rather than varietal wines bargains well worthy of their prices and Valley had two and Heathcote one. but very good drinking never the less. others that are worth every penny at their For the 2019 and older wines it was very higher price. All these are worth hunting This has not always been the case pleasing to see these aging gracefully down along with any of the recommended with McLaren Vale a regular annual with retained balance. “In this vintage wines in the extensive reviews section contender, a Rhone Valley winner one time these were made in the big flavour in the feature. At the end of the day it is year and a New Zealand Hawkes Bay old style block buster format; big fruit and your choice. wine another. big oak,” said one judge. “These were faultless wines from multiple regions.” It Our thanks go to all the wineries who does also show the versatility of shiraz entered their wines in these difficult which does well wherever it is grown. times. Shiraz & Blends Category It should be noted that some wines were $30 - $35 not available for judging as they were An amazing result with all wines sold out after one of our earlier Winestate recommended, showing the consistency judgings. (So make sure you get in early of the group at this price level. Another with these as the feedback we receive is step up here, with no major faults across that Winestate awarded wines tend to fly the board. “These are rich powerful wines off the shelves). where big oak reels big fruit,” said one judge. “Some would have scored even Throughout the year we use many wine higher with less oak.” industry judges across our numerous judgings and we thank them for their valued participation also. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 43

Shiraz & Blends Category $35 - $40 Another highly consistent flight of powerful ageworthy wines. These could easily have been combined the the previous flight, with similar characters. “Many of these will be even better with age, as dry reds rather than varietal shiraz” said one judge. “Put them away and enjoy.” Shiraz & Blends Category $40 - $45 A mixed bag here with some winemakers perhaps trying to push the envelope and not succeeding. Oak was the main culprit with some having too much new oak for the fruit weight and others using old oak creating dull flavours or wine faults. “The best had good balance and fruit vibrancy and structure,” said one judge. Shiraz & Blends Category $45 - $50 More highs and lows in this bracket. Some wines had extremes of either green fruit or premature development, or over ripe fruit. The better wines had greater fruit depth along with balanced structure of acids and tannins. “Surprisingly a number here were soft and juicy, but with complexity which is not what we expected at this price,” said one judge. Shiraz & Blends Category $50 - $60 The judges found a bit more concentration in this flight. “The better wines showed more “bang for their buck” here which is required at this level,” said one judge. “A number of the lesser wines had excess oak as a factor, along with mid-weight fruit, which would be less of a problem if the fruit depth was there.” 44 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

Shiraz & Blends Category FINAL $60 - $70 TOP 10 The good, bad and the ugly here! “Generally the weight of fruit and oak overall is very good, but a number had stewed overipe fruit, without the required balance,” said one judge. Sometimes less is more! “The ones recommended offered what you expect at this price, balance, flavour and retained vibrancy. Shiraz & Blends Category The Top Ten Shiraz as selected by $70 - $80 highest judges scores are: A step up in structure, with less drop outs. “The level of oak quality to balance 1. Paulmara Estates Aveti the fruit has gone up in this flight,” said Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020 one judge. It goes to show if you want top results you have to have top ingredients. 2. Silver Spoon Estate The Hallmark Premium Shiraz & Blends Category Heathcote Shiraz 2018 $80 - $100 A very similar result and commentor to 3. Arila Gardens Quartz & the previous flight. Ironstone Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020 Shiraz & Blends Category $100 - $200 4. Purple Hands Barossa Valley A surprisingly number of wines entered Shiraz 2020 into this flight showing that Australia has come of age in valuing its premium wine 5. Bethany Wines LE more highly. A very strong result here, Barossa Valley Shiraz 2019 as expected, however a few pretenders failed to make the cut. “The best were 6. Paulett Wines 109 Reserve concentrated, but also had retained Clare Valley Shiraz 2019 freshness and vibrancy showing the craft of the winemakers and the skill of the 7. Golden Amrita Single Estate viticulturalist,” said one judge. Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020 Shiraz & Blends Category 8. Soul Growers Provident $200+ Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021 The top wines here were outstanding with power and finesse and great seamless 9. Gumpara Wines Hexen balance. Some were prematurely matured Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 which was a shame, particularly at this price. These are genuinely great wines here 10. Eldredge Blue Chip that deserve the price,” said one judge. Clare Valley Shiraz 2020 Unfortunately a couple of our yardstick performed less than expected from the difficult 2017 cool climate vintage. WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVII STARTS PAGE 54. September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 45

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDS THE STATS Under $15 $15-$20 $20-$25 that count The Wine Sellar Andrew Peace Shaw Family Vintners NUMBER TASTED: 319 Duck Duck Goose Winemakers Choice Windjammer Limestone NUMBER AWARDED: 223 Barossa Valley Barossa Valley Coast Clare Valley Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2020 Shiraz 2020 % awarded: 70% HHH 91 Points $15 HHH1/2 93 Points $18 HHHHH 98 Points $22.50 NUMBER OF FIVE STARS (Gold Award): 18 % awarded: 5.6% NUMBER OF FOUR & HALF STARS (High Silver Award): 46 % awarded: 14.4% NUMBER OF FOUR STARS (Silver Award): 54 % awarded: 17% NUMBER OF THREE & HALF STARS (High Bronze Award): 45 % awarded: 14% NUMBER OF THREE STARS (Bronze Award): 60 % awarded: 19% $45-$50 $50-$60 $60-$70 $70-$80 Gaelic Cemetary Knappstein Wines Silver Spoon Estate - EQUAL TOP - McAskill Clare Valley The Insider Clare Valley The Hallmark Premium Heathcote Shiraz 2018 Golden Amrita Single Shiraz 2020 Shiraz Malbec 2020 HHHHH 98 Points $68 Estate Barossa Valley HHHHH 98 Points $53 HHHH1/2 97 Points $48 Shiraz 2020 HHHHH 98 Points $75 WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVII STARTS PAGE 54. 46 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

$25-$30 $30-$35 $35-$40 $40-$45 Cheeky 7 Wines Family Purple Hands Barossa Tenafeate Creek Basket Peerick Reserve Reserve McLaren Vale Valley Shiraz 2020 Press One Tree Hill Pyrenees Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2021 Shiraz Blend 2019 HHHHH 98 Points $30 HHHHH 98 Points HHHHH 98 Points $25 HHHHH 98 Points $35 $42.95 $70-$80 $80-$10 0 $10 0-$20 0 $200+ - EQUAL TOP - Arila Gardens Quartz & Paulett Wines Paulmara Estates Ironstone Barossa Valley 109 Reserve Clare Valley Aveti Barossa Valley Bethany Wines LE Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020 Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2020 HHHHH 98 Points $85 HHHHH 98 Points $250 Shiraz 2019 HHHHH 98 Points $120 HHHHH 98 Points $75 September/October 2022 W I N E S TAT E 47

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS WHEN owner-chef Terry Intarakhamhaeng Northern Thailand. Dumplings in green gorgeous looking dumplings filled opened his Pulteney Street restaurant Soi curry sauce, sticky wings with sriracha with wood ear mushroom, or pan-fried 38 in 2014 his plan was to serve street food mayonnaise and popcorn cauliflower all add barramundi in a Malaysian-style curry. snacks and dishes that couldn’t be found on to an attractive menu. the usual Adelaide Thai restaurant menus. It Once having one of South Australia’s was a pretty down to earth place, not unlike Fire, 54 Pulteney Street, Adelaide. Open earliest vineyards, Glen Ewin no longer has what you might have found in Bangkok’s for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. its own vines – ripped out 150 years ago by famous Soi 38 dining strip, which was shut Phone (08) 8310 0393. owner George McEwin after finding one of down some years ago. his workers drunk – but they have several For many people who’ve heard of Glen wines made for them, including excellent Soi 38’s cooking evolved, leading to a Ewin Estate their immediate impressions chardonnay and shiraz, and also there’s move to larger, more stylish premises and would be of wedding receptions and figs the fig gin. Glen Ewin Estate, 43 Lower a more sophisticated menu. And in a back from its 12,000-tree orchard, and until a few Hermitage Road, Lower Hermitage. Open to the future move, much to the delight of years ago that would have been pretty much for lunch Thursday to Sunday. Phone (08) its initial customers, the original restaurant correct. But no longer. 8380 5657 (online bookings only). was renamed Fire by Soi 38, still under the control of chef Terry but once again Glen Ewin is still, of course, one of It might seem unusual to see people focussing on the simpler street food style South Australia’s most popular wedding quaffing Grange over brunch, but that’s of cooking that built its reputation. destinations and is well set up with possible in one of the few places to serve extraordinary surroundings of manicured Grange by the glass – albeit at $195. But Fire’s interior has been stripped back to landscaping, and vast and mysterious then everything from the house-made baked a point where it again seems fairly basic looking old buildings from its former life as beans with pork parmigiana, scrambled but filled with light through large windows a jam factory – some of them repurposed eggs and blood sausage at brunch, to the in its corner location and a bit of fun with for private and commercial wine storage. whole fried barramundi with tamarind sauce matchbox-style lightboxes inspired by and papaya peanut salad at lunch is rather street signage in Thailand. No frills, no It now also has a modern cellar door special at Magill Estate Kitchen, sister bells, no whistles, just a focus on delivering and function area called The Gatehouse, restaurant to the top-rated Magill Estate approachable street food, though this time plus a purpose-built reception venue restaurant next door. with a few rather non-traditional touches. built around the 100-year-old former pulp shed. Following the hiatus imposed by the That’s except for the prices, which are as There’s still the ever-popular beef cheek pandemic, there’s a renewed emphasis affordable as most suburban bruncheries, massaman curry, but this time served with on the cellar door restaurant, with a highly despite being under the control and now crisp fries, as is the flame-grilled beef brisket experienced and talented Malaysian-born ownership of executive chef Greg Huggins infused with lemongrass and fish sauce. A executive chef Jason Theng now in charge who, after nine years heading the Magill new highlight dish is a spicy Chiang Mai- of the stoves. Estate kitchen, has taken over the lease inspired chicken hotdog with pickled slaw and management of both main restaurant – a riff on the spiced sausages popular in Theng’s Asian influence, along with and sibling kitchen. Glen Ewin’s focus on figs and related products – including a highly seductive The kitchen is a long, ultra-contemporary fig gin – has helped create some original space with wall-to-wall windows overlooking and very tasty dishes such as Glen Ewin the heritage shiraz vineyard, with a small duck and gin sausages with Filipino lounge area, a private dining section and afritada and fig and chilli chutney. multiple seating choices from individual tables to a communal benchtop, with the A cold plate of Filipino pork rillettes opportunity to sit outdoors on fine days to with homemade pickles, fig chutney better enjoy the panoramic views. and sourdough is a great way to start, or perhaps the salmon sashimi with soy and Magill Estate Kitchen, 78 Penfold Road, ginger dressing and fig oil. Main courses, Magill. Open for brunch and lunch Wednesday along with the sausages, include crisp- to Sunday. Phone (08) 8301 5943. skinned pork belly with fig and vinegar sauce – and for something fig-free, Top right: Glen Ewin cold plate. Bottom left: Brisket from Fire restaurant. 48 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022

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sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING DISCRIMINATING diners have flocked in vine leaves, seasoned with herbs and yolk, feta, onion and black rice. back to Sydney’s CBD restaurants this dressed in ladolemono - a drizzle of fruity For “mixed” tables, Maydanoz also caters year. Social media has been awash with olive oil piqued with lemon. Lamb is the comments on how difficult it has become national meat in Greece and here you can for pescatarians with listings such as Murray to snag weekend bookings in the area’s indulge in an old favourite expertly cooked - cod collar kebabs, sumac onion, Ezme top-flight restaurants. One of the most slow roast lamb shoulder with tzatziki. salsa and toum. Meat eaters have the sought-after venues is M.I.M by 1821, a option of something they probably haven’t modern Greek gem whose acronym stands Sydney has spawned an amazing lineup encountered before - sheep’s head wedding for Made in Mykonos. The 1821 part of of modern Greek restaurants over the past soup, yogurt, chickpea and manti parcels. the name references the year of Greek couple of years from Ploos to Eros in Potts You don’t have to look the animal in the eye, independence from the Ottomans and an Point and Topikos in Bondi. Nearly all of so to speak, the dish is more of a thick, earlier iteration in Pitt Street run by the same them have upgraded the traditional Greek creamy potage studded with dumplings, owners which closed at the end of 2020. dessert pie - galaktoboureko. M.I.M goes shredded cheek meat and tongue. above and beyond with its galaktoboureko A founding co-production between the cannoli - tubes of filo pastry filled with Maydanoz, 50 Carrington Street, Sydney; families of Jim Kospetas (the Civic Hotel) semolina custard and topped with mastic home (02) 9262 3161. and Steve Anastasiou (China Doll), the gelato. The other must-try for sweet tooths open plan, glamorous space was already is the baklava ice-cream - vanilla gelato French is the other national cuisine that has well-peopled with Millennials sipping sandwiched between super flaky walnut surged back with a vengeance in Sydney. original cocktails such as Ouzotini, a blend baklava pastry. Manon Brasserie is the latest collaboration of the definitive Greek spirit, vodka, peach from Mario Ambrosino (Fratelli Paradiso) schnapps and lemon juice, when we arrived. Upstairs is a mezzanine bar for functions and Manny Spinola (Grand Pacific Group), Corporates and well-heeled locals also and small and large groups. The service at the twosome behind Lola’s Level 1 in Bondi. filled the banquettes and tables as they M.I.M is silkily professional and some dishes The setting could have been air-freighted perused the menu of creative updates on are served at the table by the chefs. It also from France - bentwood chairs, leather Greek classics. offers a trapezi-style set lunch menu for only and velvet banquettes and hanging lights - $55 during the week. Prices are reasonable but the venue is vintage Australian - at the Marios Nikidorifidis has curated an for the luxurious setting and central city Town Hall end of the iconic Queen Victoria international wine list, including a 1962 location whether you pop in for an aperitif Building. Grange Hermitage for $5,280. But for most or the full Mediterranean for dinner. patrons, M.I.M offers a great introduction Spinola has run the QVB’s Tea Rooms to modern Greek wines that reflect the M.I.M by 1821, 107 Pitt Street, Sydney; for over 25 years. French chef, Thomas country’s winemaking sea change of the phone (02) 8080 7070. Boisellier, helms the ranges and the past 30 years. I chose a malagousia from all-hours venue is open for breakfast, Karditsa, an aromatic wine reminiscent of Somer Sivrioglu is the Grand Vizier of lunch and dinner. One of Manon’s main sauvignon blanc. We started with pita bread Turkish cuisine in Sydney through destination attractions is the 400-bottle wine list, - one of the best versions I have ever eaten restaurants such as the now-closed Efendy mainly French and curated by gun - and tarama (salted cod roe) and tirokafteri in Balmain, Anason in Barangaroo and sommelier, Henry Hunter, so you can pop (spicy feta and pepper) dips, which also met Tombik Kebab in Haymarket. He has now by for an after-work drink as well. the same high standard. Sheftalia (Greek gone for the quadrella with Maydanoz, sausages), have become a major trend an opulent, gilded eatery, specialising in The menu is unrepentantly French in modern Greek eateries and there was the plant-based cuisine of western Turkey and that’s a good thing. Entrees range nothing homespun about the taste or texture famed for its lavish use of olive oil. from hand-cut beef tartare with pommes of M.I.M’s juicy interpretation. gaufrettes to snail meurette - escargots I’d come here just for the stone-baked cooked in a red wine and bacon sauce. The Greeks are celebrated meat eaters, bread with pepe saya butter and imam Keeping it solidly traditional and nostalgic but restaurants have to cater to vegetarian bayildi - literally, the imam swooned - roasted are steak au poivre, canard a l’orange and tastes these days. M.I.M comes up trumps eggplant filled with bullhorn peppers. But pan-fried coral trout. A true slice of France with its truffle moussaka - Portobello other dishes to keep the CBD’s vegetarians that will quench Francophile cravings until mushroom ragu, eggplant, truffle and coming back for more include brussels your next trip to Paris. kasseri cheese cooked in an individual dish. sprouts, baba ganoush, pistachio and Other mains included scallop manti, Greek chilli, haloumi kebabs, honey, sesame and Manon Brasserie, 55/455, George Street, dumplings stuffed with scallop and ricotta, rosemary ash and mum’s spinach and egg Sydney; phone (02) 9051 2008. giouvetsi, red wine braised beef cheek, honey-roasted pearl onions and kritharaki, Top right: Food and drinks from M.I.M by 1821. the Aegean take on orzo, the rice-shaped Italian pasta. Forget about a slab of barramundi artfully placed on a white plate. At M.I.M, one of Australia’s finest eating fish comes plated 50 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2022