Winestate Magazine Annual 2017

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annuallyANNUAL 2017 WINESTATE VOL 40 ISSUE 1 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEWINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2016 IN REVIEW A L L Uo fAR Elsace Vin2t0a1g6e Report FASFTUanRd IOUSPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 Annual 2017 ANNUAL Vol 40 Issue 1 Edition 2017 $14 AUS (inc GST) NZ $15 SGD $19 US $17.99 GBP £11.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB120 HKD $150 CHF 20.00 ZAR 250 The pick of the crop from over 10,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2016

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The Glory ofSacred Ground. More than two million years ago, the story of Yalumba’s Paradox Shiraz began. It was then that the bedrock was laid for a small patch of heaven located in the Barossa’s fertile north. Today, blessed with such a distinguished site, from some of the regions earliest viticultural land, we let Mother Nature do her work with the barest intervention from human hands. Rock, soil, wind and rain combine to produce a wine quite unorthodox in style. Herein lies the paradox, a shiraz you would not expect from the region, yet one you would from Australia’s oldest family-owned winery.One family. Many stories. YA LU M B A .CO M





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AD_BarleyStacksHPV_ANN16.pdf 1 16/11/2015 10:23:28 AM NO.281 ANNUAL 2017Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALES CAustralia & International MPeter Jackson, Winestate Publishing YPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] CMMike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] MYNew South Wales CYPearman Media CMYPhone: (02) 9929 3966 KQueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Yorke Peninsula’s81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. award winningCopyright 2017 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole vineyardor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes noresponsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 9

contents FEATURESANNUAL 2017R E G U L A R S 2016 VINTAGE REPORT 32 Fast and furious 14 Briefs Getting the nation’s grape harvest in 115 VICTORIA: 20 European Report with Sally Easton 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley during 2016 became a race against time Riding a rush of optimism 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King as ripening fruit threatened to outpace the Vintage 2015 might have caused many 26 Wine History with Valmai Hankel pickers, writes Charles Gent. Some grapes 38 Grapevine reached their optimum ripeness up to four growers grief, but 2016 was a welcome 48 Wine Investment & Collecting weeks earlier than normal, and in some relief for most grape producers, suggests 54 What’s it Worth? regions reds and whites were ready for Jeni Port. The intense heat that marked 161 Subscription Form harvest at the same time, causing logistical 2015 mellowed somewhat, but the speed 162 Aftertaste and storage headaches for producers. at which grapes ripen in 2016 left some But the headaches were eased by quality, astonished and caused a work overload asPLUS-THE BEST quantity and prices. The national crush was variety after variety were ready for pickingOF THE BEST up by 6 per cent, quality is bordering on weeks earlier than normal. Once wineries exceptional and average returns were the were up to speed on bringing in the crop,We revisit the most outstanding wines - rated best since 2009. most were confident that the fruit qualityfour stars and above - that we tasted in 2016. 28 Allure of Alsace would produce fine wines. Alsace has a growing reputation in France 46 Alsace - Specialty Tasting and internationally for exceptional wines 121 NEW SOUTH WALES: 56 Best of Styles and to celebrate the area’s importance in 82 Best of New Releases all things wine, Winestate has conducted a Building on its birthright 96 The 2016 Best of Best Buys tasting of the main regional offerings. Lead It might be one of Australia’s most 100 Best of South Australia by riesling, which Dan Traucki describes as 114 Best of Victoria classy, dry and elegant, with lovely aromas recognised wine growing regions globally, 120 Best of New South Wales of citrus and florals which often have an but New South Wales’ Hunter Valley hasn’t 126 Best of Western Australia alluring minerality, Alsace growers work always enjoyed the enviable reputation it 132 Best of Queensland with seven main grape varieties to produce does today, writes Dan Traucki. Laying claim 134 Best of Tasmania their distinctive wines. to almost 200 years of wine history, the 138 Best of New Zealand Hunter was the thriving centre of colonial 148 Michael Cooper’s Best of 2016 Releases THE YEAR IN THE grape production and by the late 1870s REAR-VIEW MIRROR could boast about 1800ha under vines. TheyWinestate Magazine 101 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: were the glory years and then followed aIssue Number 81 Rethink required in the face of changing slow decline so that by the middle of theAnnual 2017 20th century only eight wineries survived. times Today that number has swollen to almostCover image We might live in changing times, reports 200 and the Hunter is again one of theabstract412 nation’s premier wine production hubs. Karyn Foster, but South Australian growers are coping and adjusting their approach 127 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: to wine production to deliver exceptional wines. She writes that the state’s seven The next generation delivers the dream main production centres all experienced As a young immigrant, Croatian Duje Garbin severe weather throughout the last growing season, but all still managed to pick quality took a chance and planted his grapes in the fruit and a majority of producers in all areas Swan Valley, and today his family continues are confident that when the screw caps are to produce exceptional wines year in and finally removed consumers will be enjoying year out, reports Mike Zekulich. While Duje remarkable wines. passed away in the early 2000s, the legacy he left is being expanded by his children and grandchildren as Garbin Wines continues to build upon a growing global reputation. Garbin’s success, particularly the 2016 vintage, is mirrored in most of the West’s wine regions, with many growers confident that it will be a vintage to remember. 139 NEW ZEALAND: An affair to celebrate American wine drinkers continue to whet their appetites in growing numbers for Marlborough’s sauvignon blanc. It’s a love affair that shows no signs of easing, writes Michael Cooper. Such is the dominance of Marlborough sauvignon blanc and to a lesser extent pinot noir that it is the crucial factor in the nation’s wine export growth. And vintage 2016 looks set to continue the winning formula after growers harvested a crop 34 per cent bigger than in 2015, with many growers reporting that it could be one of the best vintages.10 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

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editorial2016 HAS BEEN A turbulent year for both wine consumer and the wine Across the year these were judged in a number of differenttrade alike; some good, some bad. It could be said that “consumers have formats, from New Releases,never had it so good,” with lots of discounted prices on wine, even to the Regional tastings and Varietallevel of “distressed sales”. To some buyers this is a great thing with little or Style (e.g. Sweet Whites &thought on the future of the winery involved, as long as the price is right. Fortifieds) tastings. It makes forI have never taken that view, believing that in a perfect world everyone quite a comprehensive list where(who makes a good product) deserves a good living. Of course excess the same wine may have beencompetition screws up that idea. What is very positive is that the quality judged a number of times underof Australian and New Zealand wines has never been higher and these different contexts. Not surprisinglyworld-class wines can compete at any level. The only problem is that our results can change from onewine industries are generally very modest in promoting this. tasting to the next, where different panels are involved. What is For the growers and retail/hospitality trade things were very different. more surprising is how often theWhile bulk wine growers enjoyed a high quality 2016 vintage and different panels get similar results.dramatically increased prices, these were still at a very low level andmainly occurred due to increased exports. Shiraz and cabernet were the We have a great culture inheroes here. In the retail/hospitality trade competition was fierce, with Australia and New Zealand of peerthe other 2000 or so small wineries making up 5 per cent of the volume panel wine judging where wineshaving to not only compete with each other, but also placate the trade are judged blind, without fear or favour. It is a credit to the wine companieswith ever more “special” deals. The 100-point Parker judging system that they put their wines out under this scrutiny and no doubt it is alsocontinues to inflate itself with consumers demanding ever higher scores, of benefit to them (and others) to see where their wines fit in the market.the trade not stocking anything under 90 points and wine critics beingencouraged to give ever higher scores so that they get wines to taste. I’d also like to take this opportunity to welcome our new Hong KongAs I mentioned in a previous editorial, “94 is the new 90”. Meanwhile grapevine writer, Lucy Jenkins and thank her predecessor Ivy Ng for hergenerational change is an evolving issue which everyone is looking at contributions.with a great deal of interest. Our grateful thanks to all our winemaker and trade judges, the wineries Our New Zealand Editor, Michael Cooper, reports that while the 2016 who submit their valuable wines to Winestate and of course our consumervintage was almost a record, (like 2014) this was tempered by two million readers who trust our credibility to give them the best wines at all pricecases of wine lost in the South Island earthquake. He is also concerned levels for their continuing enjoyment.about the new generation of Kiwi drinkers preferring craft beers andciders, or indeed being teetotal, rather than choosing wine. Shades of Here’s to a fantastic 2017!Australia! Cheers, On a very positive note we are very proud to present to you in thisAnnual issue of Winestate all the wines that achieved four stars or more Peter Simic Your wine,throughout the year, from around 10,000 wines judged throughout the Editor/Publisher our ports.year by panels ofMtharrekeepteyeoruwrinweminaeksetrojutdhgeesw, oMrWlds! or trade experts. Australia Export Customer ServiceIt makes for the toughest competition around. As we like to say: “if youhave been recomJmoinethne dAuestdralibanyWWineiInndeusstrtyaEtxepo,rtyanoduBuhyearsve earned it!” 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics mission to Verona in 2015 1300 135 801 Vinitaly 2015 – Verona, Italy, 22-25 March 2015 Import Customer Service The world’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-ready 1300 132 813 companies and for buyers sourcing international wines. New Zealand Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyers Outbound - 0508 222 444 sourcing new suppliers from all over the world - buyers from Western and Inbound - 0508 333 666 Eastern Europe and the UK, Asia, the US and South America. No matter what. The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne is the Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance to www.hamburgsud-line.com Australian wine industry professionals attending the show:Major Sponsors a- nSpdaceSanud pstapndobrootkeinrgss at preferential rates - Flight bookings and confirmed accommodation in Verona - Logistics - Visitor registration ICCI Melbourne also actively promotes and facilitates contact between the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for the wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching and appointment agendas. For more information contact: Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 E: [email protected] www.italcham.com.auWINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsBREAKING ALL THE RULES “History will always be and, has to be, important,” said Carnaby. He has been working on a new Seppelt red, a 2015 Drumborg Vineyard pinot meunier .YARRA Valley sparkling winemaker Dan Buckle was instructed to do Formerly a grape used in sparkling wine, pinot meunier makes a charmingsomething that “breaks all the champagne rules”. So, the head winemaker aromatic, spicy, medium-bodied red, not unlike pinot noir. “It’s our first releaseat Domaine Chandon, a company owned by champagne supremo Moet et in a while,” he said. “One was made in the late 1990s.”Chandon, looked to the cocktail mixologists for his inspiration. Specifically hezoned in on the original Champagne Cocktail with angostura bitters, the one HOME MADEserved with cognac on a sugar cube. “We started pulling that idea apart andlooking at bitters pretty closely and what we could infuse,” he says. “We didn’t COULD this be the epitome of the 21st century winery?realise there was this huge category of bitters. Because we see citrus flavours Daniel Fischl is a plant scientist who travels the world. His partner, Michellein our sparkling wines, it made sense that orange as an add-on might work.Then we went down the rabbit hole and started making bitters ourselves.” Edwards, is a Californian-trained winemaker with winemaking interests in California, Italy and Australia. Their vineyard is the world and their winery Eighteen months later, Chandon S is the result, an aperitif combining is their garage at their home in Victoria’s suburban Malvern. They call theirtraditional sparkling wine with orange bitters, drunk well chilled or over ice. unusual project Linnaea Vineyards. “It’s insane,” says Edwards, who alsoIngredients include gentian, ginger, oranges - hundreds of kilos of blood cares for three children under the age of seven, while her partner travels theoranges, all hand peeled - cardamom, vanilla pods, cinnamon, brandy spirit world with his vineyard consultancy business. “It helps to have a winery infor infusion and more. the basement.” “I honestly don’t know how it’s going to go,” suggests Buckle, “but we like A short walk down stairs and she’s ready to work in a micro-winery wheredrinking it!” To celebrate the first release Domaine Chandon will open a everything is within reach. “Here we can control everything,” she says. TheChandon S lounge outdoor area at its Coldstream cellar door over summer. couple had been using a Victorian winery to make wine until an entire vintage was lost, so suddenly their own garage made sense as a winery.CREATIVE SPIRITS At vintage time, fruit is pressed in the courtyard and then juice is swiftlyAS of 2016, it is estimated that there are 60 gins made in Australia. Maybe moved inside. Do the neighbours ever complain? “No, they have been greatthe success can be put down to the native botanicals that so many distillers and the local council has embraced the whole idea,” she says.now use, including plants that the Aboriginals have cultivated for thousandsof years. Luke McCarthy, author of the new The Australian Spirits Guide, thinks LOOKING BACK FOR FUTURE INSPIRATIONhe knows the answer. “More than a novelty or a gimmick, this is just one of thereasons why we have such a diverse range of gins now being produced across THIS is not the Dan Murphy’s we have come to know.the country,” he writes in The Australian Spirits Guide (Hardie Grant, $39.99). The lighting is low, stacked shelves and mountains of wine boxes are nowhereMcCarthy believes Australian distillers, like winemakers, are more free to to be seen. The flatbed shopping trollies and the supermarket checkoutsexplore and experiment than their counterparts overseas. “They rarely are gone, replaced by a tasting bar and a knowledgeable attendant. It’s aproduce one style of spirit or one type of product. With no national spirit and world away from the traditional Dan Murphy’s “Lowest Price Guaranteed”no rigid set of requirements to conform to, if a gin producer wants to make discount wine shop.grappa or an amazing eau de vie, they go right ahead and do it,” he says.The Australian Spirits Guide delves into the styles and people behind some of Dan Murphy’s has returned to its original site at 282 Chapel St, Prahran,the country’s leading spirit producers such as the Archie Rose Distilling Co., the place where Daniel Francis Murphy set up business in 1952 at the ageFour Pillars, Kangaroo Island Spirits, Lark, Nant and alternate spirit makers of 34, and it has been reimagined in a way that would have pleased Dan,such as Absinthe Reverie, Grosset 45 Eau de Vie and Applewood Distillery’s that is, as a serious wine shop catering to the top end, housed with qualityCampari-style Red Okar. “Aussie distillers are designing their own path and wines from around the world.writing their own story,” McCarthy says. The new Dan Murphy’s Cellar offers wines that the other stores don’t carry,SAVING SEPPELT with specialist sales people, a 14-seat private tasting table for wine events, rare vintages sourced, private consultations and cellar management advice.IT’S been a momentous year for the historic Seppelt Great Western winery Nearly a dozen “product experts” are on the floor, people such as Rafael,and vineyards. Founded in 1851 and renowned for its sparkling wines and who hails from France, and is keen to show you a Provencal rosé. Downstairsreds, the winery in Western Victoria was scheduled to close in mid-2016 after there is the opportunity to have a rare tasting of wines, for a fee.owner, Treasury Wine Estates (TWE), announced that it was “increasingly non-viable as a production facility.” The vineyards would continue to supply fruitfor the brand but wine would no longer be made there, and the cellar doorwith its famous underground drives would close. Thankfully, it didn’t end intears with TWE and Ararat businessman Daniel Ahchow forming a partnershipto keep the cellar door open. So when winemaker Adam Carnaby and pastwinemaker Ian McKenzie recently staged A Celebration of Icons - Drumborgriesling, Great Western shiraz, St. Peter’s Grampians shiraz, sparkling shiraz- the mood was positive.14 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

briefsRIVERFRONT REVAMP the proximity to the Bass Straight means we can capture the purity of Tasmania in a way that is exceptional and world class. I’m so excited toVETERAN Tasmanian vigneron Josef Chromy OAM has launched a $40 be working with some of the best sparkling fruit in Australia found rightmillion tourism redevelopment on Launceston’s riverfront, adjacent to here on the estate at Pipers Brook. It will be my honour and challenge tohis revamped Penny Royal project. Chromy and the JAC Group have oversee the sparkling program and from what I’ve experienced already,jointly acquired the TRC Hotel site and plan to build a 100-room hotel wine lovers are in for a real treat with our upcoming releases.” There’sand a major convention facility. The project will connect with Launceston been plenty of hype surrounding Tasmanian wine in recent years andSeaport and is aimed at complementing the Silo Hotel development Fryar says this will only continue to grow. “The rise of the national andat North Bank. Business Events Tasmania’s Stuart Nettlefold said the international reputation of Tasmanian sparkling wine, and the growthproject would bring larger events into the city. “It’s really exciting to see in market share for Tasmanian sparkling wine is proof that it matches itsome visionary concepts being put on the table,” Nettlefold said. The with the very best in the world,” she said. Kreglinger Wine Estates CEOoverall development is expected to take up to five years. Chromy has John Hosken said there were exciting times ahead. “When it comes toowned and developed some of Tasmania’s leading wineries, including winemakers, few come better credentialed than Natalie Fryar and weRochecombe. He launched Josef Chromy Wines in 2007. are thrilled she has joined the Kreglinger Wine Estates team,” he said. “Natalie’s appointment coincides with recent investment in our vineyards quality program led by well-known viticulturist Ray Guerin.”FRYAR SPARKLESFORMER Jansz winemaker Natalie Fryar has taken over another high-profile role in Tasmania, joining Kreglinger Wine Estates as sparklingwinemaker overseeing a program that includes the Ninth Island, PipersBrook and the Kreglinger brands. “Tasmania is the most excitingsparkling wine region in the new world,” Fryar says. “The combinationof the cool climate, Tasmania’s northern regions unique geography andwine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 15 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E

briefsLEGEND STATUS LUNCH UNDER THE VERANDAHINDUSTRY veteran d’Arry THE Adelaide Hills has a new dining destination with the opening of MountOsborn of d’Arenberg Lofty House’s HVR - Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant and Arthur WaterhouseWines was named the Bar and Lounge, which were unveiled in early November. This is a five-star2016 South Australian venue just 15 minutes up the freeway from downtown Adelaide. Named for itsLegend of the Vine by founding creator: politician, lawyer, pastoralist and builder as well as renownedWine Communicators botanist Arthur Hardy, Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant brings a new era of diningof Australia. The award to Mount Lofty House and its sprawling, historic gardens, while the Arthurwas created to recognise Waterhouse Bar honours the colourful Waterhouse family whose society partiesan individual who has were legendary. Leading the culinary charge is HVR head chef Wayne Brownmade an outstanding who has spent more than two decades working in quality kitchens in Europecontribution to the and Australia. Brown will source Adelaide Hills seasonal produce combinedAustralian wine industry. with international influences, and will focus on a custom-built charcoal fire pit.Aged 89, the third-generation vigneron is the ANOTHER GONG FOR GAGOcurrent managing directorof d’Arenberg in McLaren PENFOLDS chief winemaker Peter Gago has been recognised as a leader inVale. His grandfather science for his contributions to oenology. Gago was honoured by the Royalpurchased the d’Arenberg property in 1912, his father built the winery in Institution of Australia, which awarded him a prestigious Bragg Membership for1927 and in 1943, at 16, d’Arry left school to help his father on the land, his contributions to the science of winemaking.The organisation is a nationalmaking fortified wine for export to England. On his father’s death in 1957 scientific not-for-profit organisation with a mission to “bring science to people andhe assumed full control of the business and in 1959 launched his own wine people to science”. The award is named after the South Australian scientists Sirlabel named in honour of his mother, Helena d’Arenberg, who died shortly William Henry Bragg and Sir William Lawrence Bragg, a father and son team whoafter giving birth to him. It was his decision to put the now famous red stripe won the Nobel Prize in 1915 for establishing X-ray crystallography, a scientificon the label, inspired by happy memories of his school days at Prince Alfred technique still widely used today. Gago said he was “shocked, delighted andCollege, where he wore a crimson-and-white striped tie. Today that red stripe humbled” to be made an Honorary Bragg Member, the highest category ofproudly adorns each d’Arenberg bottle, and is exported to over 60 countries. membership awarded by The Royal Institution of Australia. “I am delighted as I am honoured to represent the pursuits of the many practitioners of the ancientSHIELDS TAKES CONTROL discipline of oenology, humbled at joining eminent and world-renowned scientists and shocked to have been chosen on the right side of 60,” he said.KIRRIHILL Wines in South Australia’s Clare Valley has announced theappointment of Will Shields as senior winemaker. Shields comes to Gago joins just 31 other scientists as a member and was inducted along withKirrihill with a wealth of experience that covers stints in Australia and paleontologist Professor Michael Archer AM, marine biologist Professor TerryNew Zealand. CEO Matthew Lawson says the appointment comes at an Hughes and biochemist Adjunct Professor Zee Upton. The Royal Institution ofexciting time for Kirrihill and places Shields at the helm of an inspiring new Australia chairman Peter Yates AM said celebrating the achievements of greatera for the business and the brand. “We are delighted Will has crossed scientists was an important part of Australia’s development as an innovativethe Pacific to make Kirrihill and Clare his new home, bringing with him the nation. “By acknowledging and honouring our industry leaders we hope to inspireessential knowledge and perspective we value and strive for,” Lawson the next generation of scientists and STEM graduates who will play a criticalsaid. “Everyone is excited about this significant new chapter in the role in building Australia’s future,” he said. Gago has been chief winemaker atdefining and refining of our Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills’ wine styles. Penfolds since 2002 and is responsible for the globally-known Penfolds GrangeWith Will’s richness of knowledge and insight into regional winemaking and other iconic wines. He is only the fourth chief winemaker since Max Schubertwe are confident we’re on the right path to establishing an even greater was first appointed in 1948.foundation to build on our 18 years of winemaking.” Shield’s careerspans a Bachelor’s Degree in Wine Science at Roseworthy and over 25vintages traversing the Hunter Valley at Marsh Estate then Lindeman’sin both the Hunter and Coonawarra before heading west to Vasse Felix(1995-2002), then Clairault Winery (2003-2012) in the Margaret River.In 2012 he joined Morton Estate in New Zealand. “I am delighted to bereturning to winemaking in Australia and even more so to a region thatspeaks premium wine,” Shields said. “In my winemaking I strive to achieveboth balance and finesse between the vineyard and variety. I am excitedabout working with the Kirrihill family of growers and knowing the fruitfirst hand.” Kirrihill Wines was established in 1998 by second-generationvignerons, the Edwards and Stanway families.16 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

briefsFRENCH FANTASY CHINA CALLINGWINE lovers are very well looked after at Pavillon de la Reine in Paris, a chic, AUSTRALIAN wine exports continue to boom with China, now the top market,ivy-draped small hotel hidden away just off one of the most beautiful squares figures issued by Wine Australia reveal. From October 2015 to September 2016,in the French capital, the Place des Vosges. This boutique hotel is popular with the value of all Australian wine exports globally grew by 10 per cent to a totalmovie stars and models. Privately owned and family run, it offers style, charm value of $2.17 billion, with growth again being primarily driven by bottled exports,and elegance, and multilingual staff for whom nothing is too much trouble. Part particularly at higher price points. Bottled exports grew by 14 per cent to $1.8of the Small Luxury Hotels group, all of the hotel’s 54 rooms and suites are billion and the average value of bottled exports increased by 9 per cent to $5.47individually decorated and feature a mix of antique furnishings and modern per litre, a 13-year high. Wine Australia CEO Andreas Clark said: “The latest figuresfacilities. Pavillon de la Reine sits in a gracious 17th-century building tucked show that Australian wine exports continue to see strong growth and it’s our finestaway from the restaurants and shops of the Place des Vosges, which was built wines that are most in demand. These encouraging export figures are the resultin 1612 by French King Henry IV. A private courtyard garden with modern of the hard work put in by the entire sector to defend and grow Australian wine’ssculptures is the perfect spot for an aperitif. The hotel is situated within the share in our critical export markets. Wine Australia will continue to support ourMarais district among the city’s most vibrant areas and the Chemin Vert and grape and wine community through our global marketing campaigns and events,Saint-Paul Metro stations are both nearby. The Pavillon de la Reine is just a short research initiatives, market insights and regulatory assistance. These activitiesstroll from the Musee Picasso, the Musee Carnavalet, Place de la Bastille and all remain guided by our overarching strategic priorities to increase the premiumthe lively shopping quarter on the rue des Francs-Bourgeois. This is a hotel for paid for our wines and our global competitiveness.” Exports to mainland Chinathose happy to entertain themselves; perhaps ask for one of the hotel’s test tube grew by 51 per cent to $474 million, making it the leading export market by valuesets of wines from the finest regions of France, or enjoy a sauna or treatment at for the first time. To put this in context, just a decade ago, Australian wine exportsthe Carita Spa. All rooms feature free wi-fi, airconditioning, flat-screen TVs with to China were valued at $27 million. Negociants International executive directorinternational channels, Molton Brown bathroom amenities, a turndown service, Adam O’Neill said: “The demand for our premium wines in China shows no signbathrobe and slippers, complimentary bottles of water, iPod docking systems, of abating and it is particularly pleasing to see high levels of engagement fromsafes and mini bars. Breakfasts are served in one of two lounge/libraries with key trade and media.”an al a carte selection along with buffet choices. And guests can also enjoyafternoon tea or a late night glass of champagne from the honesty bar. Pavillon HOME AWAY FROM HOMEde la Reine, 28 Place des Vosges, Paris; phone +331 4029 1919 or visit www.slh.com/hotels/le-pavillon-de-la-reine-and-spa. LONDON addresses do not come any more stylish, or convenient, than the family-owned and -operated Capital Hotel, just around the corner from HarrodsFIRST FOR AUSTRALIA and a two-minute walk to the nearest tube station. Knightsbridge is an ultra- chic quarter and the Capital matches that vibe, being wonderfully understatedFAMILY-OWNED Clare Valley wine company Jim Barry Wines has released and offering personalised service from impeccably mannered staff, plushlyAustralia’s first assyrtiko. After a 10-year journey, the Barry family officially launched comfortable rooms and a one-star Michelin restaurant, Outlaws at the Capital,the Greek wine variety with a limited commercial release in Australia from November. on site. Elegant, luxurious and exclusive, it is a home away from home forPeter Barry, managing director of Jim Barry Wines, first tasted assyrtiko in 2006 while Australian winemakers like Peter Gago, of Penfolds, Brian Croser, of Tapanappaon holiday with wife Sue on Santorini, and again the following year at the London and Levantine Hill owner Elias Jreissati. This five-star town house has beenWine Fair. Ten years on, following a lengthy process of importation and quarantine, owned and operated by the Levin family since 1971 and David Levin MBE alsothe 2016 Jim Barry Assyrtiko can now be shared with Australian consumers. Barry owns vineyards in the Loire valley, hence his friendship with winemakers fromsaid when he first tried assyrtiko it immediately stood out to him as a wine well around the world. The wine list in the bar offers a selection of fine wines fromsuited to the modern Australian palate. “The fresh, crisp, acidic qualities of the around the globe, including some of the Levin family’s own, a range of whiskies,wine are perfect accompaniments to contemporary Australian food - it is a natural spirits, cocktails and a bar menu for casual dining in a very cool space. Therepartner for the Australian climate and cuisine,” he said. “With the advent of climate are 49 guest bedrooms in total, including eight suites, seven deluxe doubleschange and global warming, assyrtiko is a variety that is well suited to the changing and one two bedroom, two bathroom suite. Each of the airconditioned suiteslandscape of Australian winemaking.” Just under 1000 dozen of the 2016 vintage and bedrooms are individually designed with superbly comfortable beds. Allwill be released. The wine will be available on premise, at leading restaurants in rooms have interactive television systems, mini bars, large safes, bathrobesthe country, as well as at select retail outlets. and toiletries by Templespa, umbrellas, complimentary wi-fi and some have Nespresso machines. There is 24-hour room service, same-day laundry and pressing service, and twice-daily room servicing. A concierge service can arrange private car hire, theatre and restaurant bookings, travel reservations and personal shopping service (Harrods and Harvey Nichols are both on your doorstep). For those wanting more space, the Capital Hotel also has its own apartments, and the family also owns the Levin Hotel on the same block. Outlaw’s at the Capital is renowned chef Nathan Outlaw’s one-hatted London outpost, focusing on simply prepared seafood from Cornwall. It is open Monday-Saturday with three courses from the a la carte menu costing $93 per head, while set lunches are an affordable way of enjoying a little luxury. There is a very serious wine list on offer. The Capital Hotel, 22-24 Basil St, Knightsbridge, London; phone +44 0207 589 5171 or visit www.capitalhotel.co.uk. Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsSPARKLING FUTURE FOR AUSTIN capacity. The winery was built by the Italian company Cinzano in 1976. It was subsequently known as Cranswick Estate before being purchased byDELAMERE winemaker Fran Austin is on her way to Champagne after The Wine Group (TWG). “This acquisition is a new chapter for our familywinning the $10,000 Dr Don Martin Sustainable Viticulture Award. Austin, and we are very excited to extend our reach to new and existing marketswho runs Delamere at Pipers River with husband Shane Holloway, will globally within the wine industry,” said Calabria Wines general managerundertake a study tour of Champagne to investigate vineyard practices, Michael Calabria. The purchase follows the Calabria family’s recentwinemaking and marketing in the world’s greatest sparkling wine diversification into the Barossa Valley where it operates three premiumregion. She will explore the economic and environmental sustainability vineyards and a cellar door which will be opened in 2019. Calabria Familyof Champagne growers/producers and the relationship they have with Wines is owned and operated by the third-generation of the CalabriaChampagne Houses and will share what she learns with other Tasmanian family. The family has been making wine since 1945. The purchase of thesparkling wine business. Wine Tasmania CEO Sheralee Davies welcomed TWG site means Calabria Family Wines now has a total storage capacitythe announcement of Austin as the 2016 Don Martin Fellowship recipient. of more than 40 million litres and has bottling lines with the capability“The Alcorso Foundation has instigated this valuable program to support to produce over 2 million cases annually. Calabria sales and marketingthe development of individual wine professionals and, through them, manager Andrew Calabria said he believed the winery’s distribution reachthe broader Tasmanian wine sector,” she said. “With sparkling wine provided an opportunity to increase sales across its export markets, as therepresenting a third of Tasmania’s wine, this is a key area of focus for the company exports 70 per cent of its production to 38 different countries.sector and the insights Fran obtains from Champagne are expected tobe of particular relevance to Tasmania’s sparkling wine producers.” TheDon Martin Sustainable Viticulture Fellowship was initiated by the AlcorsoFoundation to commemorate influential Tasmanian viticulturist Dr DonMartin. The fellowship is available to Tasmanian-based wine professionalsto encourage research via study-based travel or new localised researchprojects across viticulture/oenology that benefits the broader sector.SOLAR SAVINGS MANSFIELD TAKES OVERAUSTRALIA’S oldest family-owned winery, Yalumba Wine Company, together LUXURY Barossa boutique hotel The Louise and leading regional restaurantwith AGL Energy Limited (AGL), has celebrated a milestone in the largest Appellation are under new management following the appointment of generalsolar photovoltaic (PV) system installation at an Australian winery. The 1.4 MW manager Kylie Mansfield, who joins a successful team that includes ownersSolar PV System, one of the largest commercial solar system installations in Jim and Helen Carreker, executive chef Ryan Edwards, director of guestSouth Australia, will consist of 5384 panels, installed across three Barossa services Emma Welling, director of operations June Branford and director oflocations: Yalumba Angaston Winery, Oxford Landing Winery and the sales and marketing Ruby Stobart. Mansfield comes to Appellation and TheYalumba Nursery. Yalumba Wine Company managing director Nick Waterman Louise after completing two years as general manager of Fino Seppeltsfieldsays: “This installation has been the result of a strong, collaborative effort restaurant where she assisted owners Sharon Romeo and David Swainbetween the Yalumba engineering team and AGL over the last 18 months. in opening and running one of Australia’s most highly-regarded regionalIt is an exciting project and one that will deliver us significant savings as restaurants. In announcing the new appointment, owner Jim Carreker said:well as being consistent with our corporate focus on sustainability. For “Kylie will be only the third general manager for The Louise in our 12-yearmore than 166 years Yalumba has been dedicated to reducing our impact history, having been preceded by Penny Rafferty, now executive officer ofon the environment, believing that we are the custodians of the land and Luxury Lodges of Australia and Andrew Morphett, now owner and directorhave a responsibility to pass it to future generations in good order. This of nearby Anlaby Station.” The Louise is a 15-suite luxury accommodationinstallation is another important chapter in our sustainability journey.” An facility, and Appellation is a 48-seat fine dining restaurant, both located onAGL spokesman said: “As Australia’s largest private owner, operator and Seppeltsfield Rd in the western Barossa’s Marananga village. The Louise isdeveloper of renewable energy generation we welcome the opportunity to a member of marketing associations Relais & Châteaux and Luxury Lodgeshelp Yalumba enhance its already impressive track record of sustainability. of Australia; phone (08) 8562 2722 or visit www.thelouise.com.au.The solar system is expected to help Yalumba reduce its energy costs byapproximately 20 per cent each year.” TAYLOR HEADS WESTRIVERINA EXPANSION ICONIC singer-songwriter James Taylor and his band will perform at the 33rd annual Leeuwin Concert in Margaret River on February 18. Taylor’s songbookCALABRIA Family Wines (CFW) has bought a large Riverina facility which encompasses timeless hits, including Fire and Rain, Country Road, Sweethas enabled the family-owned wine company to double its capacity. The Baby James, Carolina In My Mind and many more. He scored his first hit withtransaction includes the winery, cellar door and warehousing, and the new You’ve Got a Friend, written by long time friend Carole King and earning himfacility was purchased to assist the fast-developing family business with his first Grammy Award for Best Pop Male Vocal. He has sold more than 100production and storage facilities. million albums, earned 40 gold, platinum and multi-platinum awards and five Grammy Awards, with his Greatest Hits album earning him the prestigious The new plant includes more than 18 million litres of storage capacity, Diamond Award for sales in excess of 10 million units in the US.3000sqm of cold stone warehousing and 22,000 tonnes of crushing18 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

briefsSPIRITED OPERATION and the food is cooked in an open kitchen by Evans and some of his trusty helpers, including cookbook author and food stylist Michelle Crawford. TheFOR almost a century the St Agnes Distillery in Renmark has been producing new restaurant on the Evans farm in the Huon Valley is rustic but delightfullya range of premium brandies. Now its owners, the Angove family of wine fame, stylish and bookings fill fast because meals are served just one day a week -has set its sights on also producing world-class whisky. on Fridays. All the meat and vegetables are grown, cooked and eaten on the property, and the first wine is often from a vineyard that you can see through Richard Angove reported that Angoves recently distilled what is believed to be the window. “We are literally driven by the garden, by what is growing eachthe first legal whisky in the Riverland region of South Australia. Located on the Friday,” says Evans, who runs the farm with his partner Sadie Chrestman.quiet banks of the River Murray, the St Agnes Distillery has been highly regarded Drinks include Elsewhere Vineyard Riesling, Bruny Island Lighthouse Alefor its unique aged-expression of super-premium XO Brandies for over 90 years. and Home Hill Landslide Pinot Noir, but Willie Smith’s Cider and wines from the likes of Sailor Seeks Horse also make an appearance depending on the “The distillery continues its evolution of crafting aged spirits with a small batch menu. All are made within a half hour of the farm.whisky project,” Angove said. “Brandy takes time, patience and craft, and we To book for a Friday Feast, farm picnic or cooking class, go to www.fatpig.farmsee similarities with whisky. Our aim is to produce a super-premium single malt or phone 0415 168 285. Friday Feasts are a fixed price of $130, fully inclusivewhisky that has character and vibrancy. A whisky that shows the benefits of of the farm tour, long, lazy lunch and matched drinks.ageing in small oak and speaks to the history of our historic barrel halls. Weworked with iconic South Australian beer producer Coopers Brewery to make BLASS AND BROMLEY TEAM UPa classic single-malt beer base. Classic Scottish methods were used with atouch of our unique Australian brandy-making expertise. The whisky was double THE winemakers of Wolf Blass and artist David Bromley have teamed up todistilled in copper pot #1 in our 100-year-old distillery.” The fresh whisky spirit release a new “collectable” wine series. The pair has joined forces to releasewill now be transferred to a careful selection of small oak barrels where it will a wine series in the Bromley by Wolf Blass collection.rest, quietly maturing and transforming into distinctive single malt whisky. “Wewill be assessing the whisky regularly but it will be a number of years before Bromley by Wolf Blass is branded as a “celebration of two South Australianwe will see the release,”Angove said. “Oak maturation takes time and patience identities that are innovators in their fields - Wolfgang Blass in wine and Davidand we are lucky that we have these.” Dr William Angove first established a Bromley in art”. The collection will feature some of Bromley’s most recogniseddistillery in Renmark in 1910. art on the labels - from his Birds, Nudes and Butterflies series - providing the opportunity to buy into both the art and wine at an affordable price. BromleySHIRAZ WITH A DIFFERENCE says he has enjoyed the creative process of this new project. “There are so many beautiful synergies across the art and wine worlds, and Bromley byTHE wine industry is full of claims of “world firsts” and “unique” blends, but Wolf Blass seemed like the next natural step in mine and Wolfgang’s enduringLiz and Brett Barnes at Star Lane Wines in Beechworth, Victoria, appear partnership,” he said. “Both wine and art bring such joy to people’s lives; thisto have come up with something completely different with their Elements is a collaboration in the truest sense and I’m thrilled with the result - a range ofShiraz. Winemaker Liz and viticulturist Brett are celebrating a decade in the premium, beautifully packaged wines which make wonderful gifts or statementindustry with a “world-first” shiraz that is matured in barrels made of salvaged pieces for your home.”and kiln-dried Australian red gum hardwood. There’s a bit of hype involvedhere, with a press release claiming Star Lane has “carved themselves a In 2014, Bromley commemorated Blass’s 80th birthday by painting hisplace in history” and are “raising the bar for winemakers worldwide”. And portrait, which was entered into the Archibald Prize.as the 2013 Elements Shiraz retails for $400 a bottle, this is certainly not awine for everyone. “We always knew we wanted to try the red gum barrel,but we also knew we needed to build a name for ourselves first that peoplecould trust and respect,” Liz says. “Having earned that respect over the lastdecade, we’re now ready to push the boundaries and show that it’s OK totry something that’s different from what everyone else is doing.” Liz says thewine “tastes far fuller and more mature than its actual vintage as a result ofthe higher porosity and increased breathability of the red gum barrel”. Herfamily has been involved with the red gum timber industry for four generationsand she now continues that tradition. The first vintage, in 2012, was limitedto 300 bottles and Liz and Brett are now set to release their 2013 wine,which they say has attracted even higher demand here and in internationalmarkets. Star Lane’s Elements Shiraz comes in a hand-made red gum boxand is presented on locally sourced merino wool.GOURMET FAREIT’S a lunch in the country combined with a farm tour to get up close andpersonal with the resident pigs, cows, chickens and vegetables. Tasmania’snewest gourmet draw-card is no ordinary lunch and this is no ordinary farmtour. The 28-ha Fat Pig Farm is home to TV’s Gourmet Farmer, Matthew Evans, Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 19

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW WORLD WARMING TO A COOL-CLIMATE FUTURECOOL-climate wine styles are increasingly becoming tend to lighter in body and alcohol, high in acidity pole. Being located at 51˚N, the UK already standsa sort of identifiable group of wines. We talk about and freshness, aromatic with purity of primary fruit apart. Viticulture works here because of the warming“organic” or “biodynamic” wines and many of us have flavours. New oak influence is likely to be avoided. influence of the Gulf Stream, flowing up the Atlanticsome idea of what comprises those groups. While from the Gulf of Mexico. This lifts the local temperatureorganic and biodynamic wines are legally controlled So while pinot noir is the favoured black grape enough to ripen fruit.for labelling purposes, no such exigencies exist for variety in this regard, grape varieties that ripen in coolcool climate (although there might be an argument climates are mainly white, including the likes of muller- Also speaking at the cool-climate symposium,for drawing up a definition as more wines jump on thurgau, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, riesling, plus Professor Hans Schulz of Germany’s Hochschulethe aspirational, desirable cool-climate moniker cool representations of chardonnay and sauvignon Geisenheim University, said “since the 1980s therebandwagon). blanc. Both these latter two cultivars also grow very has been a steadily increasing temperature during well in intermediate climates (15C-17C), but with April to October (growing season). Oxford (southern Cool climate can be defined. As indeed it has been notably warmer, more Mediterranean and tropical England) mimics the pattern of Geisenheim (inat the most recent iteration of the cool-climate wine fruit expression and rounder style. northern Germany). Gothenburg (Sweden) wassymposium held in Brighton, England. This is a four- below 13C in the ’60s, but it is now above 13C”,yearly event, the previous edition of which was held Early ripening cultivars are which is a measure of being able to ripen cool-in Tasmania in 2012. climate grape varieties. And, he added “the needed, those that reach further north you go the stronger is the increase The prime determinant of where grapevines grow is in temperature in the last 20 years. The forecast istemperature. Vines need a certain minimum amount maturity before cool autumns (another) 1C increase by 2040”. This puts northernof warmth and light to grow and ripen fruit. Professor European countries such as Belgium, NetherlandsGreg Jones, of Southern Oregon University in the become too cool to allow and Norway firmly in the spotlight as future cool-US, defines cool climate as those regions with a climate wine regions. They each already have tinygrowing season temperature (GST) of 13C to 15C. further ripening. wine production industries.GST is the average temperature for each month of theseven-month growing season (October to April in the While a clear definition of cool climate exists, it is Jones said of these emerging and potential newsouthern hemisphere; April to October in the northern also a work in progress. Added to which climate cool-climate regions “we’re talking about placeshemisphere), divided by seven. A temperature of 13C change puts its own spanner into the works. The out there on the fringes. We’re looking for magicalis a measure of being able to ripen some of the grape boundaries of GSTs are geographically migrating as margins”, including local geographical factors thatvarieties that work in cool climates. Below 13C is too the globe warms. This means that at the very cool create warm spots in otherwise cool locations whichcold. Budburst only happens around 10C. margins of viticulture, that is, where it’s currently barely enable viticulture to thrive. Schulz explained saying possible to grow grapes successfully for winemaking, that in some locations “a growing season may be less Work by Dr Andrew Pirie in Tasmania defines cool new regions are emerging. The UK is an example of than seven months (but) long summer day lengthclimate slightly differently as those regions with GST an industry that until the last generation has been one due to high latitude” allows ripening to continueof 14C to 16C. He defines 13C-14C as very cool. Pirie of only sporadic success. But since the 1990s, huge late into each day. For example, he said “there’s asaid this definition “approximates to the best regions strides in quality (and professionalism) have been day-length difference of three hours and 20 minutesfor pinot noir especially … with 15.2C -15.4C being taken, as a result of which the UK wine production between Sweden and Adelaide Hills”. On the otherthe sweet spot for pinot noir table wine.” This includes industry is beginning to make small inroads on the hand, he added, in other newly potential locations,Central Otago, East Coast Tasmania and Burgundy. international market at the quality end of production. “despite the suitability of summer temperatures toJones’ definition includes the European regions of The current position of the UK industry is sometimes ripen fruit, low winter temperatures are a risk”. Butthe Mosel and Rhine valleys (northern Germany), compared to the position of New Zealand 30-40 years possibly only a risk too far for the moment.and Alsace, Chablis and Champagne, in France, ago - tiny but hugely exciting and with great potentialfor example. But the Loire valley, which is arguably for high quality cool-climate wines. The refreshing, aromatic, varietally pure anddeemed to epitomise European cool-climate wine concentrated expressions of good cool-climatestyles comes in with a GST of 15.3C, just creeping Jones said “the 50 degree latitude has been the wines are absolutely a favoured child, especially asoutside of Jones’ definition. northern limit for viticulture for a long time (but) the high alcohol, super-ripe, jammy styles of red wine viticultural wine map is changing” across the globe. fall out of favour. Part of the challenge is precisely Such coolness of temperature informs the likely He said “over 100 years we’ve seen about 1.3C of because these wines are grown at the cool limitssuite of grape varieties able to be ripened in these warming”. So Europe’s “new”margins of cool-climate of viticulture. Climate change means current coolcool locations. Early ripening cultivars are needed, viticulture have been creeping towards the north climates are being moved out of the cool marginsthose that reach maturity before cool autumns of viticulture. become too cool to allow further ripening. Wine styles20 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

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winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY ELIMINATING BOTTLE SHOCKCHOOSING to buy a bottle or case of wine can be an If the wine has seen bottle age or extended time in yourself does it represent value for money? Thereemotional decision taken in the heat of the moment barrel it should display tertiary aromas and flavours is a marketing segment known as “mainstreamand you could end up regretting the purchase when such as dried fruits, honey, toast or marmalade in bargain hunters” that are looking for a wine that isthe credit card bill comes in at the end of the month. white wines and forest floor, mushroom, meaty or performing above its price point and I think that isMaybe the bill is quickly hidden away from a loving farmyard nuances in red wines. The Holy Grail is to what a lot of people want. I recently witnessed apartner in sheer embarrassment. Sound familiar? get all three - primary, secondary and tertiary in a worrying trend; wineries are pushing their flagship single glass. wines to incredibly new heights, no not in quality, Choosing wisely isn’t easy. Do you believe what but price. The rationale is simply a case of supplythe sales person is saying? Can you trust what the Quality factors vary on the wine style or grape variety. and demand. If it sells out too quickly then it mustback label boasts? Has a wine writer got a vested A great nebbiolo will have high tannins when young be too cheap, so the producer pushes the priceinterest in recommending a wine? When all is said that could be considered by many as unbalanced, up to achieve a balance. Many cultures treat wineand done, you have to make decisions with a cool but in that grape they are expected. Nebbiolo is a as a status symbol, snobbery in some cases, andhead and sound palate, and not get wrapped up grape that often demands time in bottle to develop the more expensive the bottle the more it saysin the occasion or pressurised into something you and therefore it could be argued that it can only be about the purchaser. Wineries are cashing in onsimply don’t want. described as good quality when it is young and a wine this and rightly so. Wine is after all a consumer that shows the promise of future greatness. Here is item, a commodity, and can be bought and sold. There are a number of decisions to make about a a contentious statement. A young unoaked semillon, Some wineries have kept prices reasonable only towine when deciding to purchase it, besides whether sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio or verdelho can never see their current release being quickly re-sold onyou can afford to buy it. be outstanding in quality. They simply lack complexity. auction sites for a lot more than they sold it. First is to always buy after assessing the quality. There are a number of A third decision to make is do you really need it?Let’s consider what a great wine should have as Many people don’t outlive their cellar. If that sadlycharacteristics. It should have a good level of decisions to make about does happen, will the cellar of immaculate winesconcentration or intensity. That is, concentration go to a good home? There is an old story of a wineof flavour on the palate which holds your attention. a wine when deciding to lover stopping at a roadside when he saw discardedMouth filling or texture is another way to express old bottles heaped in the gutter and finding bottlesthis. It should also have great balance. The word purchase it, besides whether of Grange. That couldn’t happen today, or could it?well-balanced is often thrown around; it means thewines constituents – sugar, acid, alcohol, flavours you can afford to buy it. The shelf life of wine has also to be considered.and tannins should all be there but in balance with Don’t over order drink-now wines. Pinot grigio andeach other. Also an aroma or flavour should not Hunter Valley semillon needs bottle age to sauvignon blanc might be lively and crisp at cellardominate in a negative way. Wine, both red and become complex and outstanding, and does an door when you purchase it but it will only be likewhite, shouldn’t have too much acidity nor too little. unoaked sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio ever that for a couple of years, rosé wines are the same.Red wine should not be too tannic but just the right achieve agreeable complexity? An aromatic and You must be able to drink or give away those winesamount, depending on the style. Next comes length refreshing sauvignon blanc is delightful on a hot before they expire. Not all people like the aromasand finish which are vital. A great wine should travel summer day and with the right food but is it an and tastes of aged wines. Riesling, for example,across your palate (length) and have a long aftertaste outstanding wine? Maybe it can be described as picks up toasty, kerosene and petrol aromas, and(finish) after you have consumed it. Finally, a great outstanding for a sauvignon blanc and that is how these are an acquired taste. Cabernet sauvignonwine should be complex and make you burst into we can get around that contentious statement and can display tobacco, cigar box, earth and leather,song as you express all the aromas and flavours not upset countless hard working winemakers. In far from that lovely blackcurrant, rich black cherryyou can identify. Young wines should have primary other words you have to take assessing quality by wine you tasted at the bottle shop.aromas that are commonly fruit based or vegetal, grape varieties and change the parameters slightly.herbal or floral in nature. Young wines could also Finally consider the occasion, in other words,display secondary aromas and flavours coming from However one factor that applies across every when are you going to drink it? Have that in mind.time in oak barrels and other winemaking techniques grape variety is length and finish. I’ve yet to Is it a special occasion wine or is it bought for asuch as yeast influences, time spent on lees, pre or experience a very good or outstanding wine that particular person, perhaps your partner? Watchpost skin maceration, or malo-lactic fermentation. had short length or finish. the wines you cellar and ensure all palates arePrimary and secondary characteristics are what covered or else it becomes your cellar and not fornotch up the complexity rating. Second, and this is related to quality, ask the enjoyment of others or the matching of food.22 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

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winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING TRADITION WITH A TWEAKPULLING up in front of a stucco townhouse hotel in ladies and gentlemen as you enjoy the Milk Punch - a star shrine - simply called Dinner - in the MandarinLondon is no guarantee of luxury, as anyone who traditional concoction of cognac, rum, apple brandy, Oriental hotel in Kensington. Consider: chickenhas had a horror stay in Pimlico, Bayswater and Earls tea and clarified milk. Need an extra kick? Then opt for liver parfait wrapped in mandarin jelly to resembleCourt, knows. Hotel Xenia, in South Kensington, the mezcal-based cocktail livened up with chamomile a mandarin. Billed as a celebration of 600 years ofdelivers the required upmarket standard with Tom soda, lemon sorbet and vermentino Italian white wine, British cooking, each dish at Dinner is tagged by theKirk chandeliers, soaring Regency-era ceilings and accompanied with shortbread made with Lincolnshire year of its invention.hand-woven cashmere blankets. It’s also close to Poacher artisan cheese. Be sure to sample the SenchaHarrods, Harvey Nicks and the V&A, and is a great green tea. But London’s most intimate Michelin-starred hotelbase for exploring the British capital’s ever-changing restaurant is Seven Park Place in the St James Hoteldining scene. Great international staff, a top bar and London’s premier hotels have been awarded a & Club. There are only nine tables and the menu walksfirst-rate English breakfasts are added lures for anyone galaxy of Michelin stars. If you have always lusted the line between French and British contemporary. Theon a foodie tour of the British capital. after a meal at the three-star Epicure restaurant at Le sommelier is top notch and expertly advises which Bristol in Paris, the next best thing can be found at the wines match best with chef William Drabble’s flights Tradition with a tweak can often be more pleasurable Celeste restaurant in the Lanesborough Hotel near of fantasy, many featuring game in season.than discovering something new. A thought that’s Hyde Park Corner. The chef, Florian Favario, learneddifficult to brush aside when you are sitting amidst his craft at the elbow of Eric Frechon, the executive chef Texture restaurant in Portman St has possessed athe gilded mirrors and riotous ceiling frescoes of the of Epicure, and was awarded his first Michelin star last Michelin star since 2010. Head chef Aggi (Agnar)Oscar Wilde room in the Hotel Cafe Royal. Sipping October. His speciality is fish delicately but decisively Sverisson is Icelandic, but has worked for over 18on a Veuve Clicquot cocktail, the London Royal Tea flavoured, so place close attention to the daily specials. years in the UK with the likes of Raymond Blancelevates the pukka ritual of afternoon tea to new at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons and Mosimann’s.heights. There’s an extensive tea menu, of course, The lighting mimics the He describes his food as “modern European withbut what really sets the experience apart is the Scandinavian influences”. We’re talking Anjou quailgorgeously-attired MC, who interrupts the scoffing of Aurora Borealis and sounds with bacon popcorn and white chocolate mousseBattenberg cake and raspberry mousse topped with and sorbet with dill and cucumber. For about $480,gold leaf with hourly recitals of quotes and anecdotes of the Icelandic countryside including wines, the most extraordinary experiencesfrom the scandalous writer’s life. are the Sense-action dinners in the private dining room. babble in the background as The lighting mimics the Aurora Borealis and sounds of Four cocktails whipped up by master mixologist, the Icelandic countryside babble in the background asRyan Chetiyawardana, winner of the 2015 World’s you hoe into dishes such as you hoe into dishes such as reindeer with chocolateBest Bartender title, cue in with the 70s-inspired Wyld and red cabbage.Tea at the Mondrian hotel on Southbank. The decade reindeer with chocolate andthat style forgot had a lot of it, apparently, if the baked Organic Italian is the drawcard at Fucina, Stefanoalaskas, rose blancmanges and Tom Dixon-designed red cabbage. Stecca’s (Toto’s) new Marylebone restaurant. TheDandelyan Bar are any indication. A highlight of any pasta, made from stone-ground wholemeal flour, isvisit is the Fluff & Fold Royale - a botanical blend of If modern British is more to your liking, the Ritz rolled to order and you won’t taste juicier, more tenderprosecco, lime, basil, orange bitters and cacao liqueur. restaurant in the fabled hotel of the same name, meat than the suckling pig, lamb and boar cooked in helmed by executive chef John Williams, also received the restaurant’s wood-fired oven. The stunning decor The alcoholic component that raises most eyebrows a Michelin star in October. The setting couldn’t be is worth a visit alone.at one of London’s new-generation afternoon tea better - frescoed ceilings, huge windows and neo-ceremonies is sparkling sake, served with green classical statuary - to tuck into British venison, red Will Burrett and Annabel Partridge, honed theirtea and chocolate savarin at Ichi Sushi & Sashimi cabbage, celeriac and blackcurrant. skills at Spring at Somerset House with Skye Gyngell.restaurant in the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge hotel. The duo has opened The Pear Tree Cafe next toSeafood takes the place of scones and the chefs If two Michelin stars exert a siren’s call, save up your Battersea Park’s Boating Lake. A go-to for those whoserve up 14 types of sushi and five extremely sweet moolah for Helene Darroze’s double-starred eatery in want to experience nature in central London, theJapanese desserts to satisfy sweet-tooth cravings. Ask the venerable Connaught Hotel. Widely acknowledged serene venue is open for breakfast, weekend brunchfor one of the tables with a view of Big Ben. as the best female chef in the world, Ms Darroze and dinner. The health-oriented menu is centred keeps regulars guessing with her constantly changing on offerings such as charred squid with preserved Two spirit-laden drinks set the scene at the Scandal menus. I still dream of the Scottish lobster with lobster lemons, purple sprouting broccoli, almonds and chilliWater afternoon tea served at the Edition London hotel “crumble” and curry emulsion. oil and Dorset white crab with celeriac, walnuts andin Berners St. Sitting in the oak-paneled Punch Room nasturtium. Grass-fed outdoor-reared meat, artisanbar, it’s easy to conjure up images of Georgian-era Ditto the signature dish at Heston Blumenthal’s two- cheeses and sustainable fish only. 24 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017



winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE SIMON FAREWELLS SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE, AND ARRIVES IN PERTHFRENCHMAN and author of over 50 books, Andre off. To ensure that he did not perish of thirst some cheese; coffee”. With this gargantuan feastSimon spent Saturday, February 22, 1964, his last of the “boys of the wine brigade” brought on board guests chose from “a most interesting collectionday in Sydney, with just as many commitments ice-cold bottles of Great Western Brut to drink of Australian wines” - sherries (five), white winesas on his first. With his “incomparable friend” Jim Simon’s health in his presence one last time. Simon (11), red wines (15) and dessert wines (one). IfMcGregor and “Dr Lindeman” - presumably a was most impressed that they thought to bring there were any sparklings they were presumablydescendant of the original Henry John Lindeman wine glasses with them. Next afternoon Canberra served before the meal and were not mentioned.- Simon drove to Minchinbury where they were berthed in Melbourne where in traditional fashion Four days later Simon landed in an Australian portwelcomed by Jeffrey Penfold-Hyland and his the weather was cold and wet. Simon was glad that for the last time. This, his only day in Fremantle andwife. (Penfold-Hyland was Penfold’s assistant he had brought with him his top coat: it was the first his final day in Australia, was certainly crowded. Itgeneral manager at Magill when Max Schubert was also Simon’s 87th birthday. Kevin Healy, Winewas working on his experimental red wine in the With this gargantuan feast and Food Society of Western Australia presidentlate 1950s. It was he who encouraged Schubert (a mystery to me as I cannot find any referenceto ignore instructions from Penfold’s head office guests chose from a most to the Society’s existence until much later), drovein distant Sydney and keep working on Grange Simon and the Canberra’s captain to the Perthon the quiet. Who knows, but for Penfold-Hyland’s interesting collection of Town Hall where members and the state’s leadingrole Grange may not have seen the light of day.) citizens shared what Simon described as “quiteThe cold fare consisted of Queensland mud Australian wines - sherries a display of canapes”, washed down with acrabs and “other rare delicacies” not specified, glass of “Houghton white wine”, (almost certainlyswallowed down with a goodly selection of (five), white wines (11), Houghton’s White Burgundy, now known as WhitePenfold’s best wines - still and sparkling, white Classic and one of Australia’s most popular winesand red. Was Grange among them? Unfortunately red wines (15) and dessert since it was released in 1937). Lunch was at theSimon does not identify the wines. It was fitting Palace Hotel where Society members and gueststhat Penfold-Hyland should have a substantial wines (one). were introduced to their distinguished visitor. Simonhand in this, Simon’s final New South Wales lunch, was impressed with the meal of local delicaciesas he had been heavily involved in planning the time he had needed it in the three months of his such as “iced oyster consomme, Dongara crayfishitinerary from the start. Appropriately, Simon’s last travels. That evening Simon attended the Ladies’ nature (sic), dhufish belle otero and cheese”.evening meal in Sydney was where he had his Night of the Wine & Food Society of Victoria, in (Dongara is a popular Western Australian fishingfirst: at the Darling Point home of Jim McGregor. South Yarra, a full-dress affair. Victor Gibson, town noted for its shellfish and dhufish, the state’sPresent on both occasions were Freda Nesbitt Simon’s great friend and head of the Society, and fishing icon, is a large superb-tasting white-fleshedand Lady Lloyd Jones - Simon did not approve his wife Madge greeted the guests. Although Simon fish, found only off the Western Australian coast. Laof all-men dinners. The only item of food or wine mentioned neither food nor drink in his account of Belle Otero was a Spanish dancer and courtesan.)Simon mentioned was “a brandy which we shall the occasion, the records of the Society are more All of the wines were Australian - “Mildara Georgenever taste again, a Grande Champagne Hine informative. The meal consisted of “Sydney rock Sherry and Yalumba Chiquita Show Sherry,1844, dark, of course, but still strong and with a oysters, caviar and savouries; Port Phillip scallops Penfold’s Traminer Riesling Bin 202 Vintage 1962,marvellous concentrated flavour”. in white wine, crayfish gumbo, Baked schnapper, Orlando 1957 Barossa Riesling and Houghton’s wild duck casserole, veal princess, fillet of beef 1962 Verdelho, Lindeman’s 1959 Claret Bin 45 Next day the ship Canberra left Sydney bound wellington, roast turkey, baked Virginia ham; and Chateau Tahbilk 1960 Shiraz, Seppelt’s Greatfor Melbourne, Perth and England. McGregor, vegetables in season, salads - cold Slaw (sic), Western Brut and Swanville Tawny Port Reservewhom Simon called his “Providence” and Pauline potato, sweet corn; strawberries and cream; Special”. Naher, his “Belvedere Guardian Angel”, saw him26 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017



28 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

ALLUoRfAE lsaceDAN TRAUCKIAS there is a growing global popularity of the wines well, therefore it is worth trying Alsace riesling in its still wine as well as being the most used varietyof Alsace, Winestate has conducted a significant youth so as to compare it with Australian riesling. for the region’s renowned sparkling wine, Cremanttasting of these wines in Australia. Before you d’Alsace. It is also one of the seven varieties thatcheck out the results of this tasting on page 46, The next best known Alsace grape variety is are currently allowed to be used in the making ofhere is some interesting information about Alsace. gewurztraminer with its multi-faceted powerful champagne. aromas, full-bodied flavours and roundness. The scenic French wine growing region of Pinot gris, like most white wines in Alsace, areAlsace is located on the border between France The other main grape varieties grown in Alsace made in both a dry and richer (sweeter) style.and Germany in the broad expanses of the Rhine are: The drier style pinot gris wines are full-flavoured,River Valley. The region has changed nationalities generous and go well with summer foods. Whilemore than a dozen times over the centuries as the A new darling the richer styles are mouthfilling, rich, superblyborders between these two countries have ebbed of the French delightful and are best suited to spicier Asianand flowed. wine industry dishes, paté and crumbly cheese, or enjoyed on is carving an their own. Pinot gris is the fastest expanding variety The area is steeped in history and magnificent international in the region, with plantings up from 1500ha in thesights, like Strasbourg, the seat of the European reputation. early 1980s to nearly 6000ha in early this decade.Parliament, with its UNESCO world heritage-listed These wines are softer and less acidic that the pinottown centre. Then heading on to the picturesque Pinot blanc, a soft, fruity grape variety that is grigio style of wines made from the same variety intown of Colmar which is the wine capital of Alsace, seldom seen in Australia. It is just starting to make other regions such as Italy.with its many heritage-listed architectural treasures an appearance here with only eight or nine wineriesand buildings. Colmar is the beautiful starting point growing it. Two great Aussie examples I have tasted Muscat is a highly aromatic variety, which infor exploring the Alsatian Wine Route. It is often so far come from jb Wines and Yelland & Papps Alsace makes a beautiful dry wine that is an idealcalled “Little Venice” because of its idylic canals in the Barossa, which are both very elegant and aperitif wine with its clean, grapey flavours.centred around the river Lauch. classy wines. Pinot blanc is well worth trying for its fresh suppleness and ability to match a wide Finally in the whites there is sylvaner. Its full name From here one can explore the 170km-long, north- range of foods. In Alsace it makes a very elegant is gruner sylvaner and it produces light-bodiedto-south Alsace wine route with its splendid hillside fresh wines with lovely floral and citrus aromas.vineyards and amazing cellars, interspersed with Not used as much as it used to be, its planted areaquaint medieval towns and villages. This historic, has declined by around 50 per cent in the last halfbeautiful and picturesque wine region produces a century, despite the fact that it is approved to beworld-renowned wines from seven different grape used in Alsace Grand Cru appellated wines.varieties. The king of which is riesling, from whichthe best known wines of the region are made. Its The one and only red variety grown in this cool-rieslings have achieved an international reputation climate region is pinot noir which here producesfor being classy, dry, elegant wines with lovely wines of distinct character that are somewhataromas of citrus and florals which often have an different from those of Burgundy. They are inalluring minerality. Alsace rieslings are different general fuller-bodied and more generous of flavour.to Australian rieslings in that they are more likely Pinot accounts for just under 10 per cent of theto have flintiness and steely characters with less region’s wine production.likelihood of the searing acidity one often finds inyoung Australian rieslings. Both age exceptionally Alsace is one region in France that is bucking the trend of grubbing vineyard area. While France’s total vineyard area has been steadily declining Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 29

over the last few decades, especially since the Despite the European’s love for corks, many At a wine tasting conducted this summer at theformation of the European Union, the area under of the area’s better known wineries are today Dopff au Moulin winery in Alsace, wines sealedvine in Alsace has risen by around 30 per cent over bottling a part of their production under screw under cork were compared to the same winesthe last three decades. Today there are around cap, usually for export. One or two even put sealed under screw cap. Most of the participants16,000ha of vines planted in the region. To put this a capsule over the screw cap so that it has agreed that those sealed under screw capsinto perspective, South Australia’s Barossa Valley the appearance of being sealed with a cork were fresher and more vibrant than those sealedhas just under 11,000ha planted to vines. (as opposed to being corked). When asked under cork. about using screw caps, one local wine identity Under the French Appellation d’Origine said: “This, is the wine for my retirement. The Alsace wine region is not only famous for itsControlee (AOC) system, 78 per cent of the The locals, humph, they still insist on cork”. excellent wines but also as a sensational placeAlsace vineyard area is classified for the At present around 25 per cent of the area’s to visit because of its exceptional natural beauty.production of AOC Alsace wines, 18 per cent for production is exported, but this is expected to The region winds along the eastern foothills of theAOC Cremant d’Alsace (sparkling wines) and the rise significantly as the wine world becomes Vosges mountains in far eastern France. Therefinal 4 per cent as AOC Alsace Grand Cru - the more aware of the excellent wines that Alsace are 119 villages in the area offering the visitor apinnacle wines of the area. produces. Currently the main export markets magnificent insight into this quaint lifestyle, as well are the US, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany and as a taste of world-class wines. The forward thinking folks of the region made Denmark. However a considerable focus is nowAlsace the only AOC in France that labels its being put on exporting to China, UK (pre-Brexit), So next time you are at your local premium bottlewines by variety rather than by region. This was Japan and Australia. shop looking for something new and interestingdone long before the “New World” inspired habit to try, why not give Alsace wines a go, they areof varietally labelling wines took off. delicious and very alluring wines. 30 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

The forward thinking folks of theregion made Alsace the only AOC inFrance that labels its wines by variety rather than by region.Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 31

FASFTUanRd IOUS32 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

While shiraz and chardonnaystill reign supreme and the top 10varieties are unchanged, a spirit ofadventure continues as winemakers 2016 large and small continue their Virnetpaogertauditions of previously untried Mediterranean varieties.CHARLES GENTVINTAGE, frantic at the best of times, took on a Orange, by contrast, had early rains then prettybreakneck pace in many of Australia’s wine regions much ideal conditions, as did Mudgee. Despite thein 2016. Not only did vignerons have to contend minor panics brought about by the neck-and-neckwith the seemingly inexorable backward march of ripening of whites and reds, both regions anticipateharvest - in some places up to four weeks earlier high quality shiraz, cabernet and riesling. For athan average - but they also had to deal with a cool region, Canberra was dry and warm but got adomino-like ripening of different varieties. Picking crucial January drink, and the makers are lookingand crushing were often compressed into a fraction forward to an excellent standard of shiraz to goof the normal chronology, creating logistical with their riesling.headaches and shortfalls in storage. In Victoria, the Yarra Valley, Geelong and Much of New South Wales, Victoria, Tasmania Mornington Peninsula shared a cold, dry winter,and South Australia had scarce rain throughout a parched October, and a warmer than averagethe growing period and experienced very warm spring and summer, with vital relief in the form ofconditions from October onwards, although late late January rains. Winemakers are consequentlyJanuary rains came to the rescue in many areas. expecting a solid result, from pinot noir andThe overall national crush was up by 6 per cent chardonnay in particular. Yields were up in all three(red grapes up by 10 per cent, white by 2), but regions, but down in Sunbury.significantly the growth was generated by a strongupturn of production in cooler and temperate Rutherglen’s “bumpy ride” included a stormy andregions at the expense of a diminished crush in humid January. A warm, dry finish to the seasonthe warm, inland regions. saw a very early completion of vintage and also concentrated flavours in the fruit, with the fortifieds 2016 brought some good news for growers and reds expected to shine.- grape prices were up across most varieties,resulting in the best average returns since 2009. Heathcote’s warmer than usual nights acceleratedMany growers inland, however, are still dogged by vintage, but the shiraz quality was assessed aslow returns and, tellingly, the proportion of vines very high. Macedon had its earliest vintage onowned directly by wineries continues to edge up, record after a very dry year, but as is often therising from 28 to 34 per cent. case, a warm year in a cool region acted as a fillip for quality. In the Granite Belt of Queensland, a couple ofshort-lived episodes of violent weather caused Tasmania’s experience was similar across thesome fruit losses, but an otherwise ideal season south, east and north growing regions: a verybrought good news in terms of quality and yield cold winter was followed by a dry spring, beforefor both reds and whites. very warm conditions set in, fortunately lacking in heat spikes. Pinot noir and chardonnay are both While the southern states went thirsty, there was promising, although most makers anticipate goodyet another deluge in the Hunter. Nearly 340mm rather than great wines.of rain in January brought some devastating croplosses, dropping the region’s output by nearly half. South Australia was close to drought conditionsAn ironically tranquil February means there will still for much of the growing season, with early andbe some good shiraz and semillon to show. rapid-fire vintages the rule of thumb. Lake breezes kept Langhorne Creek cool and production Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 33

boomed, with a 57 per cent leap in volume. Output Great Southern subregions of Albany, Denmark, also soared in McLaren Vale, and both regions are confident of very good to exceptional quality Frankland River, Mount Barker and Porongurup. In for shiraz and grenache, with Langhorne Creek also tipping top-notch cabernet. Despite dry and addition to the difficulties deriving from cool, cloudy sometimes hot conditions, the Barossa not only upped its yields, but is touting some truly excellent and humid conditions, there were crop losses to red wines. The Clare and Eden valleys had the benefit of late January rains; the rieslings already the ravages of silver-eyes. The moderate yields are look good, and shiraz and cabernet are expected to follow suit. expected to produce some very good rieslings, A very dry start in the Adelaide Hills segued into with the style of reds being on more austere lines. one of the best seasons for a decade, with great things expected from chardonnay, sauvignon After a dry start to the season, Pemberton had blanc, pinot noir and shiraz. In the Coonawarra, a dry season with a warm start was moderated by a a massive downpour in January and experienced mild finish, and while vintage was early, good fruit flavours and acidity generated high hopes for both erratic daytime temperatures. The nights, however, shiraz and cabernet. stayed cool and very good results are expected, In the big back blocks of the Riverland, Riverina, the Murray Darling and Swan Hill, there especially from riesling and shiraz. The Swan were high temperatures to contend with and yields were down, although good quality was Valley, with its warm spring, followed easterly generally reported. patterns and had its earliest vintage for 20 years. Western Australia, once again, walked alone, with many regions experiencing a cool While shiraz and chardonnay still reign vintage, characterised by reluctant ripening and complications brought about by heavy rainfall late supreme (shiraz made up 46 per cent of the red in the season. crush and chardonnay 47 per cent of the whites) In the Margaret River, higher than average falls of rain started in January and persisted into March, and the top 10 varieties are unchanged, a spirit creating serious infestations of mould and mildew for many growers. Those lucky or diligent enough of adventure continues as winemakers large to avoid the problems are expecting excellent chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. and small continue their auditions of previously In contrast to their recent succession of warm, untried Mediterranean varieties. “easy-going” vintages, unseasonal rain also caused problems in many vineyards across the The Australian export market is steadily getting its mojo back, with a recovery of sales to the US and the Chinese market also starting to fulfil its much- hyped promise; international wine sales were up by more than $2 billion over the past year. With average grape prices up marginally for the second year in a row alongside a sustainable increase in the crush, there are good grounds for the “cautious optimism” expressed by the Winemakers’ Federation. While most indicators are positive, one aspect of winemaking looks absolutely certain: more energy will be devoted to dealing with the vicissitudes of the inconsistent and sometimes wild weather associated with climate change, and the records for early vintages will continue to fall. 34 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

SOUTH AUSTRALIA THE WINE STATEOPEN THE DOOR TOPREMIUM WINE

36 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

AGURSOTWRIANLGIABIRNANASDIADAN TRAUCKITHE wine world’s attention is focused on Hong Kong 2011, 2012 and 2013. While most of the world is big oaky aromas, a great mouthful of silky smoothearly each November, as that is when the Hong aware of Austrian white wines, especially gruner flavours and a long, lingering finish.Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair (HKIWSF) veltliner, they are not so aware of Austrian red wines,is held in the cavernous Hong Kong Convention so this vertical tasting of zeigelt, blaufranskich Pertaringa 2014 The Yeoman McLaren Vale Shirazand Exhibition Centre. and blends, each from the same producer, was - Wow, this is a big wine, with masses of deep dark interesting and demonstrated the ability of these dense colour, beautiful aromas and a big mouthful This event, sponsored by the Hong Kong Trade wines to age gracefully. of complex flavours with a tight, classy finish. AnDevelopment Council (HKTDC), is massive, with outstanding wine.1067 exhibitors from 37 countries showing their This year Australia was well represented withproducts. In its ninth year, the fair was attended appealing stands from both Winestate and the While there is no doubt that many of Australia’stens of thousands of buyers and trade visitors from Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria. Wine Australia wineries produce world-class wines, the challenge isAsia and some from further afield, including the did not attend, having opted to exhibit at the Hong to get that message out to the rest of the world’s wineMiddle East. Most of the buyers were from mainland Kong Food Fair instead. The Winestate stand had drinkers. This is doubly hard for Australia becauseChina, however the fair also attracted buyers from several more wineries than last year and these unlike most other countries which only produceMalaysia, Taiwan, Indonesia, Vietnam, Korea, included: Brygon Reserve Wines, Margaret River; great wines from “classical” European varieties, weCambodia, Myanmar and Japan. In 2008 Hong Gralyn Estate, Margaret River; Greenock Estate are a country of unfettered experimenters who alsoKong became Asia’s regional wine hub after the Wines, Barossa; Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy and produce sensational wines from new innovativegovernment removed all the import duty on wine. Pertaringa, Adelaide Hills/McLaren Vale; Haselgrove (alternative) varieties, making our message much Wines, McLaren Vale; Hoggies Wines, Coonawarra; more complicated. It is high time that we had a This move has meant that Asian buyers can Kings of Kangaroo Ground, Yarra Valley; Koonowla significant lift and a vast improvement in the quality ofsource their wine requirements via Hong Kong Estate, Clare Valley; Latitude 34 Wine Co, WA; the marketing of our wines around the world in orderwithout incurring additional duties, while at the Sharmans Wines, Tamar Valley; Sidewood Wines, to match or exceed the slick promotional ability ofsame time making Hong Kong the nerve centre Adelaide Hills; Toppers Mountain Wines, New our competition, especially the Europeans.for wines in Asia. This has made the fair an England and Totino Estate, Adelaide Hills.outstanding platform for the promotion and trading Making great wine is simply not enough in thesein wine. It enables participating wineries to extend It is high time that we had “instant” days of mass communication. We needtheir business not only into China, but potentially a significant lift and a vast to have a strong and concerted presence atacross Asia for significantly less cost than visiting improvement in the quality international wine events, especially at events in Asiaindividual countries. such as the HKIWSF. of the marketing of our Even being focused on the wine side of the fair, wines around the world in Australia doesn’t settle for second best in theit was impossible not to notice the massive spirits order to match or exceed the sporting arena, nor should we in the wine world! Sopresence, from US whiskey makers, Mexican slick promotional ability of let’s get more exhibitors to next year’s Hong Kongtequila makers, who also conducted a tasting International Wine and Spirits Fair, and ramp up ourmaster class, and the ever present Japanese sake our competition. wine march into Asia, it really is worth the effort tomakers, who held two master classes this year. attend one of the best wine fairs in the world. There was even a Russian vodka stand, which I did not get a chance to taste all the Australiandrew quite a bit of attention. wines on show, however those that I managed to try were very good. Of the wines I did taste, stand-outs More than 80 wine and spirit events, ranging were: Gralyn Estate - 2014 Margaret River Reservefrom an introduction to Slovenian wines, a wine Chardonnay - beautiful oaky aromas and a lovelyindustry conference session: “Uncover the creamy mouthful of flavour, a bigger but elegant styleOpportunities of the New Cool-Climate Wine of chardonnay. An absolute ripper wine.Trend” moderated by Debra Meiberg MW, to anAustralian boutique wines masterclass, were Toppers Mountain - 2013 New England Wildconducted over the three-day event. Ferment Tannat - light bright colour, complex aromas and lovely elegant flavours with a tight, The Grand Tasting of Slovenia was introduced restrained finish. A brilliant and elegant exampleby Slovenian Deputy PM Dejan Zidan. Slovenia of this often rustic French red variety.is located between Italy, Austria, Hungary andCroatia and is an EU member. The wines were very Kings of Kangaroo Ground - 2013 Heathcote Shirazinteresting and tasty despite their tongue-twisting - this is a drop-dead gorgeous Heathcote Shiraz:names such as Kupljen Jeruzalem Svetinje -2013,Renski Rizling and Jeruzalem Ormoz - 2015Remuni Muscat. Another interesting master class was the AustrianRed Vertical Tasting, comprising four vintages - 2009, Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 37

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINS ADELAIDE super-chef Jock Zonfrillo has remains as Jasmin’s guiding light and culinary There are more French classics on offer such as won national recognition for his unique Orana controller, though she’s largely had to relinquish her restaurant, where he and his kitchen team place at the stoves to her well-trained kitchen team. duck a l’orange glazed with Grand Marnier sauce, have created exquisite dishes featuring native Its discreet basement location has helped make it a Australian produce. That’s the upstairs restaurant, favourite of both captains of industry and politicians even a snail pie with mushroom fricassee, and of but at ground level - and at a level probably more alike, with one former state premier once declaring approachable for many customers - Zonfrillo has that he would be happy to eat his last meal there. course you can finish with desserts such as creme opened Blackwood, less formal in style but one Not surprisingly it’s especially popular with visiting where the quality of the cooking is taken just Indian cricket teams, which helps account for the brulee with a glass of Muscat de Beaumes de as seriously. Blackwood is not exactly a “little extraordinary cricket bat collection on its walls, Orana” because it has its own distinct style and along with a collection of Tom Gleghorn paintings Venise, or profiteroles with chocolate sauce. Tarik personality, busy and casual, dominated by the hanging above a splendid dining room featuring large central bar, big tables and wide-open street glossy mahogany tables, low lights and sumptuous explains his cooking style is influenced by his early access. Although most dishes still feature native style. Mrs Singh continues to keep an eagle eye ingredients, like Orana, here they are almost on key details such as the spicing, evidenced by culinary memories growing up in Provence and taken for granted, without fuss, and much more her outstanding beef vindaloo and even more fiery accessible as a result. Moist, succulent steak chicken tindaloo. Watch for daily specials such as says he and Maltret seek to share a taste of the tartare is given a flavour boost with mountain the pan-fried garfish dusted with masala spices. pepper, scallops seared over coals are given fresh Side dishes and breads are unfailingly good, and French lifestyle through their restaurant. Le Mistral, citrus bite with ice plant and beach succulents, the wine list is the best of any Indian restaurant in while grilled ling fish is brushed with Geraldton town. Less well known is that Jasmin has an even 8 Hill St, Willunga. Open for lunch and dinner wax and served with burnt leeks and smoked more discrete private dining room tucked behind potato mash. There are surprises, too, such as a the main restaurant. Jasmin, 31 Hindmarsh Squ, Wednesday-Sunday; phone (08) 8556 4488. snack that looks rather like rice crackers - puffy, Adelaide. Open for lunch Thursday and Friday, white and crunchy - are actually deep-fried dinner Tuesday to Saturday; phone (08) 8223 7837. Despite its proximity to the city, on the foothills kangaroo tendons, made to sound more enticing as kangaroo crackers. Nothing faddish about any Alain Ducasse-trained chef Tarik Marco had overlooking Adelaide’s eastern suburbs, it took of this - just great food. It’s as though the most big shoes to fill when he and partner Sandrine popular dishes that have been experimented with Maltret took over the much-acclaimed Fino a while for the locals to cotton on to what was and tried and tested upstairs at Orana have filtered premises at McLaren Vale and renamed the down to Blackwood, but dressed in more sedate restaurant Le Mistral. However, he’s done so offered by the Magill Estate Kitchen, rather like clothes. The wine list, though much smaller than with cooking that has even his French customers that of Orana, is just as original and adventurous, feeling as though they’re at home. Nothing else has a little sister to the adjacent and much acclaimed with a focus on small, innovative South Australian changed much in this simple and spare cottage winemakers. Blackwood, 285 Rundle St, Adelaide. restaurant, strategically located next to one of Magill Estate Restaurant where head chefs Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday, dinner Tuesday- the country’s best farmers’ markets, other than a Saturday; phone (08) 8227 0344. menu that now starts with classics such as duck Emma McCaskill and Scott Huggins hold court. rillettes with pickled shallots and cornichons, or When a city restaurant has been going strong for foie gras with house-made brioche, and a very Huggins and McCaskill remain in charge of the 36 years and remains as popular as ever it has to be fine, buttery rough flamenkuch-style tart piled with doing something seriously right, and that’s the case creme fraiche, pickled onions and lardons. The menu and maintain a quality of cooking just as with the multi-award winning Jasmin, which can house specialty bouillabaisse revels in the wealth rightfully claim the title of Adelaide’s leading Indian of seafood from the nearby gulf, while the black fastidious as the main restaurant, but here the restaurant. Started in 1980 as a small, unlicensed Angus beef fillet served with duck fat potatoes restaurant, its founder Mrs Singh, now in her 80s, and a slice of seared foie gras is utterly indulgent. style is more upmarket cafe though, in its own38 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017 way, just as elegant. Intending diners in search of an exemplary brunch or lunch are now well advised to book ahead for a table in this long, ultra- contemporary space, with wall-to-wall windows overlooking the heritage shiraz vineyard in the foreground. Fortunately this section of the vineyard remains for the time being, while its neighbouring section has been pulled up for replanting. The menu reflects a level of sophistication rarely found at this level of dining, with brunch dishes such as home-made crumpets with ham hock, poached egg and bearnaise sauce, or main course lunch dishes such as corned beef cheek with butter poached turnip and roasted onion. You can step up a level with charcoal grill dishes such as waygu ribeye, perhaps with a glass of Bin 389 or even Grange. Magill Estate Kitchen, 78 Penfold Rd, Magill. Open for brunch and lunch daily; phone (08) 8301 5943. Top: Magill Estate Kitchen interior. Left: Interior of Jasmin restaurant.

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINSFOR a place so small that its very name of roast Brittany Blue lobster served with lobsterobliterates it when viewed on Google Maps,Hong Kong is one of the most fiercely competitive risotto and tarragon gratin. Unusually for Hongwhen it comes to new restaurant openings. Onaverage, the life cycle of a hapless new venture Kong, there is a large and sunny patio area -is 18 months as rents climb ever higher andruthless landlords continue to carve up space complete with a DJ booth -and a moveable barin order to maximise revenue. So when a 750sqm extravaganza complete with swish-sounding that now offers a larger drinks list with morerooftop in the very heart of glitzy CausewayBay (the place with a lot of neon) opens, it wines by the glass and perhaps for the moreraises lots of eyebrows. Russian restaurantcompany Bulldozer Group has its debut venture adventurous business lunchers, an array ofSeafood Room which sources the freshestseafood from across the globe. Unusually for a Absinthe cocktails. Hailing from Brooklyn, JoeyRussian-backed enterprise, the food is simpleand without pretence, with the menu carved up is half Greek and credits his family for cultivatinginto 12 sections, including Carpaccio, Tartare,Ceviche, New-style Sashimi, Hot Dishes, his love of food - his grandmother’s cooking,Sashimi, Pasta, Chinese Dishes (prepared bytheir in-house Chinese chef), Meats and more. his father who was a chef and the time spentHelmed by chef James Cornwall (previously ofLondon’s historic seafood restaurant J Sheekey) with his grandfather, who owned a butcherSeafood Room also offers an uninterruptedpostcard-style view of Hong Kong harbour and shop down the street. “I am trying to source thefeatures artwork from Murakami and AdrienBrody who set hearts aflutter when he flew in for best seasonal products then see where theythe grand opening. Seafood Room, 26/F, Tower535, 535 Jaffe Rd, Causeway Bay; phone +852 take me,” he said. Unit 406, L4, Pacific Place,3708 9668. 88 Queensway, Admiralty; phone +852 2704 Now open in Wan Chai’s revamped heritagedistrict next to the much treasured Blue House, 5211. Samsen owners Adam Cliff and Bella Kong areserving up Thai street food with an emphasis on Top: Seafood Room restaurant interior.authentic Thai noodle dishes. Middle: Food from Samsen restaurant. Bottom: Food from Continental restaurant. “I’m deeply passionate about the diversecharacteristics of Thai cuisine, especiallythe authentic and memorable flavours of itsvibrant street food,” Cliff said. At Samsen, allof the noodles and most of the ingredients areflown in fresh daily from vendors in Bangkokto ensure authentic flavour and firm texture. Inorder to sate Hong Kong diners’ obsession withhigh quality beef, Wagyu arrives as Samsen’ssignature Wagyu Beef Boat Noodle. Samsen,68 Stone Nullah Ln, Wan Chai; phone +8522234 0001. Swire Group’s standalone restaurant,Continental, has reopened with a new executive(and ex-Cafe Gray) chef Joey Sergentakis onboard and a tempting six-course tasting menuchampioning the best in seasonal produce. Upfor grabs (so to speak) is also a bounteous 1kg Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 39

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KING IN 2014 The Vine took over the back street location in teamed well with the snap and crackle of the oat wafer. and natural and French boutique bottlings mixing Double Bay once occupied by Zigolini’s. Success was Even when well-made, a plate of gnocchi can weigh with Australia’s finest. Cirrus, 10/23 Barangaroo Ave, instantaneous, thanks to owners Gavin Douchkov on the stomach for hours. Again, Bolton manages to Barangaroo; phone (02) 9220 0011. and Manny Karson and gun chef Drew Barton. keep things light with his trademark dish of gnocchi, You don’t mess with a winning formula, but it’s wise peas, hazelnuts, smoked ricotta and preserved lemon. The re-jigged pub tsunami shows no sign of petering to tweak things now and again. Chef Bolton has A novel combination of flavours that made a welcome out. One of the latest multi-million dollar refurbs is the taken his culinary talents in a more organic direction change from a white sauce. An egalitarian note is Paddington Inn, long responsible for many social and the venue has added The Garden, a botanic added by the popular chook cooked in the Weber, hook-ups. Part of the Solotel Group, run by Bruce conservatory of a bar punctuated by wicker chairs, which proves that the old dictum that the well-heeled Solomon and Matt Moran, and Justin Schott (ex lounges and contemporary floral cushions. Noted like their food to be simply good. For fashion and flair Rockpool) is in charge of the kitchen at the back of mixologist Jason Crawley is behind the bar, sending lovers, the blackened kingfish, celeriac, yuzu kosho the hotel. The stunning decor is the work of George out a steady stream of fruity, aromatic and leafy reflects more modern Australian tastes. A refined Livissianis who created the interiors for Cho Cho cocktails for the sophisticated clientele, backed by take on perennial favourites ensure a brisk trade in San and the Apollo. Order the onion foccacia as a well-edited lineup of beers, wines and spirits. The desserts. Chocoholics are well-catered for with a you peruse the menu. The whole roasted Thirlmere Garden also invites people who get peckish but don’t souffle made from 70 per cent Valrhona guanaja, duck, pastilla and red cabbage became a cult dish want a full-blown meal to linger longer with a new smoked chocolate fudge and nitro vanilla ice cream. from day one, as did the 850g Jack’s Creek rib eye. bar menu. Personally, I wouldn’t stray too far from the Traditional should never be synonymous with boring But there’s plenty to capture the interest of those with baked oysters with yuzu, sake and espellete, but the and the creme brulee with figs and vincotto proved smaller appetites, from burrata with roast squash and crispy vitello tonnato, stuffed zucchini flower, school the point. The mango and passionfruit cheesecake, pumpkin seed oil to chicken liver parfait with saffron prawns with chipotle and corn, and fried chicken in coconut and grapefruit, like the oysters, is an edible pear and toasted gingerbread, and kingfish sashimi tarragon yogurt should be mentally bookmarked for a invitation to come back. As is the well-thought out and with beetroot, ponzu and blood orange. Schott grew return visit. Bolton is a man on a never-ending mission expansive wine list which also doubles as a “loyalty up in London and it shows in the Earl Grey tea custard - to constantly better himself. No easy feat when you’ve program”. The Vine, 2 Short St, Double Bay; phone tart with prunes. Less nursery and more South Seas worked with Matt Moran at Aria, Peter Gilmore at Quay (02) 9363 0010. is the coconut sorbet, sweet carrot juice and candied and a trio of Michelin-starred restaurants in the US. ginger. Dress tip: wear your coolest outfit - casual or There’s a distinct influence from his classic French I have long been a devoted fan of Brent Savage corporate. The Paddington Inn, 338 Paddington St, training, but Bolton’s passion for seasonal produce is and Nick Hildebrandt, the multi-talented maestros Paddington; phone (02) 9380 5913. homegrown and he indulges in regular foraging trips behind the Bentley, Yellow and Monopole. They have to his childhood stamping ground - the Hawkesbury reprogrammed how Sydneysiders think of corporate, Top: Passonfruit cheesecake from Vine. region. The Vine enjoys most favoured status for high vegetarian and bar fine dining, and have now let loose Above: Food from Vine. profile corporate events and brand launches for its their considerable talent on seafood at Sydney’s most Left: The Garden at Vine, interior bar. Hamptons feel. It’s easy to see why there are many talked-about development - Barangaroo. Their latest repeat bookings, as I tucked into a second helping venture - Cirrus - is located on the site of the former of those sake-spiked oysters. Chicken liver parfait is Noma pop-up, where the ocean is so close you feel having a major moment in many of Sydney’s fine dining you can touch it. A speedboat hovering over the heads restaurants, but not the liverish slabs of yesteryear. of the diners enhances the spectacular harbourside Bolton’s version seems super-charged with air and location further. Crustacean lovers will be in heaven contrasts with blackcurrant, hazelnut, blueberries from the marron, cooked on the charcoal grill, and and raisin toast. Similarly lightweight, in spite of the enlivened with sea banana and lemonade fruit through generous serving, was the smoked ocean trout, curd, the mud crab with green garlic and tarragon and malted oats, marigold and horseradish. The cured fish Moreton Bay bugs in a palate-tingling cognac sauce. Murray cod gets the over-the-coals treatment and40 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017 arrives on a bed of paperbark with a standout native ingredient sauce of bush tomato, pepper berry, lemon myrtle, fennel pollen and chilli. With Hildebrandt in charge of the wine list, there’s plenty of bio-dynamic

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brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOEL BRISBANE is in the grip of a great culinary dock for one of Brisbane’s oldest venues, Little Tokyo part of restaurateur Jamie Webb’s ever-growing casualisation. And where once this might have also on the CBD fringe. empire. He also owns Lefty’s Old Time Music Hall, meant a culinary decline, nowadays it heralds in Peasant & newcomer Anchor & Hope in Paddington. the exact opposite. Cameron was a co-founder of The Iconic, an online Madame Rouge is swathed in kilometres of red velvet clothing store and has recently launched Spokenwine, curtains, round leather banquette seating surrounds Former chef turned operator Luke Stringer knows a an online bottlo that curates independent producers the vast, u-shaped marble bar and the food screams thing or two about opening venues in both Melbourne from across the country, with a group of partners. pared back, clever French interpretations - classic and Brisbane, having a string of acclaimed venues to Happy Boy is best known for it’s punchy, spicy dishes techniques and flavour combinations paired with his name in both cities. He was part of the opening and very, very laid-back service but the other stand lots of lovely chardonnays, rosés and beaujolais. team at the glamorous Oyster in Little Burke St before out is the wine list. Happy Boy’s list is derived from Gratineed goat’s cheese souffle, duck liver paté with returning to his native Brisbane where he opened Spokenwine’s extensive and eclectic range, there’s sauterne jelly, boudin noir and seared scallops and Hampton’s Home Living in Paddington in Brisbane’s only ever one varietal and everything has the spice a perfectly neat pizzaladiere all make impressive leafy inner west. An interior and home wares and temperature of the provincial cuisine. Now the starters, but none more so than the tartare de beouf store with a cafe out the back on the wraparound Votans have headed into the CBD proper with the served with a raw quail egg and potato lace crisps. veranda with views of the Mt Cootha hills, he sold opening of their second venture, Greenglass, an Duck confit sits over du puy lentils, the John Dory that to become GM of the Ole Group, which boasts upstairs 60-seater in George St, in the heart of the is grilled and served a la meuniere and the poitrine venues such as Ole Fuego at Indooroopilly, Ole legal district. Wine is the main focus with over 100 d’agneau, a breast of lamb over petits pois a la and Mr Paganini, both in Southbank. Now he and listed and more to choose from in the cellar, and Francaise melts in the mouth. And just when you partner Ashleigh Bates have returned to hilly the food is anchored in the classics, mainly French, think you’ve died and gone to Paris, along comes Paddington and opened their most casual venue though it is far from fussy and very inexpensive. 336 dessert. Tarte au pomme has a scoop of calvados yet, Winner Winner, a chicken-centric diner with George St, Brisbane. ice cream and nougat glacé has fresh raspberries to a clipped list of craft beers and boutique wines, an cut through the sweetness, but if you prefer a liquid inspired cocktail list and some decadent-sounding Over the river at West End in Brisbane’s inner finish try one of the dessert cocktails - berry vanilla milkshakes. Crunchy coated with your desired level south Holloway Eyewear’s design studio has been passion, chocolate or espresso martini are also of spice, the chicken is accompanied by your choice home to Pizzartist, a free-ranging pocket-sized available alongside an impressive array of cognac, of sides, including shoestring or curly fries, zesty pizzeria with an ever-changing line up of classic brandy and digestives. 100 McLaughlin St, Brisbane; slaw, onion rings, cheesy corn, sweet potato chips Italian pizzas and pastas. Now Holloway’s Raffaele phone (07) 3252 8881. and pickles. There are a number of burgers also on Perischetti has overhauled the menu and named offer and everything comes with lashings of sauce the new incarnation Luigi’s Italian, after his paternal Top: Interior of Winner Winner restaurant. from garlic or blue cheese aioli, tomato and Winner grandfather. Charry bases are topped with classic Above: Delicious burger from Winner Winner. Winner special sauce. 233 Given Tce, Paddington; flavourings of pepperoni (the smallgoods are made Left: Food from Winner Winner. phone (07) 3368 2677. on site), mozzarella and fresh herbs, and there’s a range of pastas, meatballs, vegetable dishes and Brother’s Cameron and Jordan Votan count their salads like caprese and eggplant parmigiana. 69 first restaurant venue as a massive success. Happy Hardgrave Rd, West End; phone (07) 0439 178 787. Boy, a modern Chinese restaurant with Sichuan leanings, occupies the space formally a loading For the past few years Mary Randles has been helping husband Philip Johnson run their iconic42 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017 Brisbane eatery, e’cco Bistro on the edge of the CBD. An overhauled menu with gentle Middle Eastern influences and a fresh new makeover to the much- loved dining room have given this much lauded bistro a timely renewal and now she is on to bigger things. Donning a beret and strutting her stuff around her own venue, Madame Rouge sits just opposite James St in the M & A complex, formally Gordita,

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melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVIN LONGEVITY is not necessarily measured by survival CBD (SPQR is Latin for “the senate and people of The live seafood anchors the menu focused of the fittest but by who can adapt most appropriately, Rome”). It’s strictly pizza-only with a few snacks (try on regional and authentic Chinese food with an and in Melbourne we are seeing high profile and well- the fried dough with tomato and basil; it’s ridiculously undeniable McConnell touch. His head chef is established operators shifting their focus, listening good), in addition to some decent, very approachable Archan Chan who worked for McConnell at Cutler & to their market and adapting to it accordingly. In the wines - on tap and in bottle. You can order whole Co, Supernormal and Golden Fields (now known as pursuit of feeding us, and all our visitors, some of the pizzas and by-the-slice at the bar. The room takes Luxembourg) and her menu, while not as large as your best chef’s and owners in town are extending their the term pared-back to a new level with tiled floors late night China town local with pages and pages of offerings. Take chef Scott Pickett. Already known and simple chairs, partitions between dining room dishes, is a generous list of snacks, small dishes, large for his Northcote empire - Estelle Bistro and Estelle and bar - it’s about function over form - but this works dishes, dumplings, rice and noodles and vegetables. by Scott Pickett as well as co-owning Saint Crispin for the execution of such a straightforward concept. on Collingwood’s Smith St, the chef has opened in Chan grew up in Hong Kong and McConnell the historical and much-loved Queen Victoria market The wood-fired oven churns out chewy, salty, lived there, and in Shanghai, so collaboratively with Pickett’s Deli & Rotisserie. The former cafe sourdough base pizzas with toppings of top-notch they’re putting up dishes such as crisp rice cake, and takeaway shop on the corner of Therry and quality. The pizza menu is divided into red (with homemade Chinese sausage, Sichuan pork Elizabeth streets is prime real estate for walk-by tomato) and white (with olive oil) pizzas, including dumpling, garlic chive and chilli oil, pippies and trade and Pickett has already got the place heaving the marinara with the simple addition of tomato, XO sauce with fried doughnuts and cold marinated with shoppers and those looking for some sturdy basil, oregano and olive oil, or the parma, a mix eggplant salad with chilli. comfort food. First, he’s had the place fitted out with of tomato, Fior di Latte, Parma ham, rocket leaves dark timber produce shelves, a marble charcuterie and parmesan. The white pizzas include salsiccia Larger dishes may include steamed whole snapper, counter and a long communal table. It has a Parisian with house-made pork and fennel sausage with coriander and ginger and grilled Wagyu rump cap feel to it. The menu is developed around an upright potato, Fior di Latte or the fungi provola with mixed with XO and mushrooms. rotisserie where Pickett and his team roast free-range mushrooms and Provola. chickens from suppliers Bannockburn and Milawa, The drinks list is comprehensive - 35 pages - but and then serve in pieces with chips or whole with veg. There are good local drops to enjoy with your pizza; keeps up with the sense of fun and colour laid out The menu, while steeped in familiarity, definitely raises fianos - Australian and Italian - prosecco, aperol and through the room and menu. Remember the Japanese the bar on the general food offering of the market. His okar Australia’s answer to campari). slipper cocktail? You can enjoy one again at Ricky & all-day menu includes crumbed lamb’s brains, leeks Pinky as well as classic drops from here and Europe. & sauce diable; steak tartare, bottarga and pomme The dessert menu offers just two - tiramisu or panna paille or the textural gnocchi with prawn bolognese. cotta - but these two are spot-on, uncomplicated For years McConnell has often been right on the If you visit in the morning it’s hard to go passed the and of quality. Like every other element of SPQR. money in telling Melburnians what they want to eat house-smoked bacon with a “secret” dry rub that is an 26 Liverpool St, Melbourne; phone (03) 9671 3326. and drink, and it looks like he’s done it again. 211 integral part of the bacon and brown sauce breakfast If you’re in Fitzroy and visit the Builders Arms Hotel Gertrude St, Fitzroy; phone (03) 9417 7700. roll. There’s bar snacks of oysters or charcuterie for on Gertrude St for the first time in a while, you’ll notice the afternoon and a solid list of craft beers and wine. the front bar - all wood and beer taps - as always Top: Interior of Ricky & Pinky restaurant. Pickett is also offering a take home option for the (punters have been meeting in this bar for the last 160 Above & Left: Food from Ricky & Pinky. lovely roast chook. Delivery is in the pipeline so he’s years) but take a few steps past the bar and there’s just about got all bases covered. 507 Elizabeth St, a whole new ball game to consider. Melbourne; phone (03) 9328 3213. Builders Arms owner and entrepreneur, chef Andrew McConnell, wanted to refresh what was on offer at The most recent venue from restaurateur David the Builders. Behind the bar was the bistro and the Mackintosh - who co-owns Rosa’s Kitchen, Lee Ho fine-diner Moon Under Water but he didn’t just refresh Fook and Ides - is a pizza joint called SPQR in the it, he gave it a complete make over, creating a new Chinese-inspired dining room Ricky & Pinky.44 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017 You can’t compare the former space to what it is now. Both spaces have become one and the room is dressed in rich greens, blues and golds - gold pipes bend and gleam throughout the space; silver-coated skylights amp up the sense of light - and McConnell has installed a fish tank filled with live pipis, abalone and barramundi.

WINESTATE MAGAZINEMEMBER EVENTS 2017JOIN US TODAY!By becoming a Winestate Member you will receive one complimentary ticketto all of our events listed below upon request!*APRIL 2017 SEPTEMBER 2017ADELAIDE - Cabernet & Bordeaux Tasting ADELAIDE - Winestate Wine of the Year Australia & NZFriday 7th April 2017 - National Wine Centre Adelaide Friday 1st September 2017 - National Wine Centre Adelaide(Tickets available early 2017 - Subscribers receive one complementary (Tickets available mid 2017 - Subscribers receive one complementaryticket upon request) ticket upon request)ITALY - Wines of Australia - Vinitaly NOVEMBER 20179 -12 April, 2017 - Veronafiere, Verona, (Italy)Contact [email protected] regarding tickets QUEENSTOWN NZ - Wine of the Year Awards Lunch(Tickets available early 2017) Thursday 16 November 2017 - Gantleys of Queenstown, NZ 12 noon - 3pm - (Tickets available mid 2017)MAY 2017 ADELAIDE - Wine of the Year AwardsADELAIDE - Mainfreight International World’s Greatest Friday 24 November 2017 - Adelaide Convention CentreShiraz Challenge XII 1pm – 3pm - Trade Only & By InvitationFriday 26th May 2017 - National Wine Centre Adelaide (Invitations will be sent September 2017)(Tickets available early 2017 - Subscribers receive one complementaryticket upon request) JANUARY 2018MELBOURNE - Winestate Wine of the Year Subscriber Tasting PERTH - 2018 Best of the WestSaturday 6 May 2017 - 12 noon – 4pm Date to be Confirmed - Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel, Riverside BallroomNillumbik Cellars, 11 Chute Street, Diamond Creek (Melbourne) (Tickets available late 2017 - Subscribers receive two complementary(Tickets available early 2017 - Subscribers receive two tickets upon request)complementary tickets upon request - [email protected])* This applies to paid members only.

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2016 style tastings49 TASTED18 AWARDEDALSACEA different world of interesting honeyed and spicy varietals that Domaine Emile RIESLING Vins Schoenheitzshow off cool climate and botrytis overtones. Well worth an Beyer Tradition L Alsace Rieslingalternative look for your table. Alsace Pinot Blanc 24 TASTED 2013 HHH 2015 HHH 6 AWARDED Unusual nose and longSPARKLING GEWURTZTRAMINER Arthur Metz Alsace A sound well-made steely palate offering 8 TASTED Gewurztraminer wine with a flinty appley The best rieslings had a lovely mouthful of6 TASTED 5 AWARDED 2015 HHH nose and a crisp and steely citrus characters flavour. €27.50 EU2 AWARDED A broader, soft, well- crunchy palate. €14 EU with ‘kero’ overtones Dopff Au Moulin Lots of variety here constructed wine but the others had Grand CruThe best sparklings between the dry, with aromas of rose PINOT GRIS disjointed sugar/acid Schoenenbourg dehere were vibrant with tighter and leaner petals and honeysuckle balance or botrytis and Riquewihr Alsacegood balance between styles and the very flavours. €7.80 EU 6 TASTED yeast ferment issues. Riesling 2011 HHHthe sugar and acid. sweet ones with many 2 AWARDED Honeyed toasty nose showing good floral Domaine Jean-Marc Arthur Metz Alsace with kero notes. Well-Cattin Freres Brut expression. Bernhard Grand Cru The two that made Riesling 2015 HHH rounded palate. GoodCattin Cremant Mambourge Alsace the grade had good Slightly grassy citrussy balance of fruit, acid andD’Alsace Rose Le Cave du Gewurztraminer varietal pepper and style with floral sugar. $38.99Alsace Cremant Vieil Armand 2014 HHH spice characters and no fragrances and crispRosé NV HHHH Tradition Alsace Late harvest botrytis excess sweetness. pot pourri-like flavours. WHITEA very drinkable and Gewurztraminer style with honeyed €7.70 EU BLENDdelicate wine that has 2015 HHHH complexity mixed with Arthur Metza vibrant floral bouquet Austere tight style with lychees and apricots. Alsace Pinot Gris Alsace Keuhn 1 TASTEDand nicely balanced hints of lychees on the €23 EU 2015 HHH1/2 Alsace Riesling 1 AWARDEDcrisp flavours that linger nose and an elegant Lovely well-made 2014 HHHon and on! €15 EU palate with more of the Vins Schoenheitz varietal wine; interesting Botrytis characters Biecher & Schaal lychee-like characters Alsace combination of crushed obvious on the citrussy Grand CruWolfberger filling the mouth. $25 Gewurztraminer grass and olive oil nose and a rounded, full- Altenberg deCremant d’Alsace 2014 HHH characters with peppery bodied, off-dry palate. Bergheim AlsacePrestige Brut Domaine Weinbach Delicate spicy bouquet notes. €8.70 EU $24.99 White BlendAlsace Cremant Grand Cru with subtle lychee notes 2013 HHHNV HHH Furstentum Alsace that follow through on Willm Reserve Bestheim Grand Cru Vibrant lime aromasCrisp apple-like aromas Gewurztraminer to the palate. €32.50 EU Alsace Pinot Gris Schlossberg Alsace with honeyed notes.with a zippy and crisp 2013 HHH1/2 2015 HHH Riesling 2014 HHH Sweet and flavoursomecitrus and limestone A funky complexity of PINOT Delicate peppery Sweet complexity of palate with a crisppalate. €40 EU floral/honey fragrances. BLANC strawberry nose and aromas with some finish. €24 EU Quite sweet in the nice balance and length slightly sweet toasty mouth with good 3 TASTED of varietal flavours. floral flavours. €25 EU PINOT NOIR varietal characters 1 AWARDED €34 EU evident. $45 Domaine Emile 1 TASTED Small neutral group Beyer Eichberg 1 AWARDED with just one austere Alsace Riesling style recommended. 2014 HHH Cattin Freres Honeyed floral bouquet Joseph CattinJUDGES and rich rounded palate Rouge Steinbach showing a good acid Alsace Pinot Noir Mark Conroy Dan Traucki structure. €30 EU 2012 HHH Sales/Marketing Freelance wine Barrel ferment/oak manager for journalist with 29 Eric Semmler dominated style. Pirramimma Wines. years’ experience Proprietor of 919 Wine A lingering mix of Over 30 years in the in the industry. He Company. Formerly smallgoods and berry wine industry including has evaluated and winemaker for the fruit characters. €25 EU experience at Krondorf, written about wines Hardy Wine Company. Mildara, Remy & Mildara from: Georgia, Turkey, Previously with Brown Blass, Grant Burge and India, Japan, Greece Brothers & Auldstone Serafino. Wine panelist & Spain as well as Cellars. Associate judge with his previous innovative (alternative) judge at Rutherglen, wineries. Australian wines. McLaren Vale & Riverland shows.46 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017



wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts Maria Reserve reds from the very warm 1998 vintage. NZ wines contributed a high percentage of the total MOSSGREEN-WEBB’S MOSSGREEN-WEBB’S lots of the auction - close to 40 per cent. Not to be February 7: live auction (consignments outdone, Australia had some great wines featured. close January 20) (By REECE WARREN, HEAD OF FINE & RARE Leeuwin Art Series chardonnays from a number of February 7 - 15: online auction* WINES) vintages were the highlight here, but there were also March 21: - live auction (consignments offerings from Giaconda and Moss Wood alongside close March 3) As 2016 closes, Mossgreen-Webb’s Fine & Rare the usual quantities of Penfolds wines. Prestige March 24 - 29: online auction* Wine can reflect on a year that has brought a great champagne had some great results, with a rare bottle *all online auctions at: deal of change and with that, much delight. The new of 1997 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes available, but the www.mossgreen-webbs.co.nz ownership has propelled us into new platforms for best outcomes were enjoyed by Tattinger Comtes our auctions and brought with it new buyers - not only de Champagne and a Pol Roger Winston Churchill LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS from New Zealand, but also internationally. Our last - both from the 2000 vintage. The Pol Roger sold 27 With three fine wine catalogues closing auction was the most successful of the year in terms per cent above the high estimate. Older vintages per week, Langton’s offer the best fine of sell-through rate and, as far as Live Auctions go, of Prestige champagne is always a category that wine range to choose from. Visit www. was a larger than normal auction for us. We had a has a number of followers. Two of the best results langtons.com.au for a comprehensive great selection of wines from NZ, Australia, German were generated by a 2000 Rolly Gassmann VT list of the auction event calendar. rieslings and pinot noirs, prestige champagne, Gewurztraminer, which went a whopping 80 per Rhone, Premier and Grand Cru burgundies, Vintage cent above the high estimate and a 2003 Chateau ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS port and - for the first time in my experience - Austrian de Beaucastel (42 per cent). 2010 Clos des Papes Visit www.oddbins.com.au for the latest pinot noirs (for which there was a lot of interest). The had a great deal of interest and the successful bidder auction information. final sell-through of 92 per cent was an outstanding blew the absentee bid out of the water. Austrian and figure that not only left the consigners overjoyed, German pinot noirs were highlights, especially when STERLING WINE AUCTIONS but also the buyers who managed to pick up some you consider the reputation NZ has for producing Auctions run every two weeks, back-to- great wines with some feverous bidding from the cool-climate pinot noir. It’s great to see we can look back, finishing on Wednesday evening. floor and internet. As well as the sell-through rate through our normal love of our own pinot noirs to being very good, we had 18 per cent of lots selling see what the rest of the world can produce outside GRAYSWINE at or above the high estimate. NZ contributed greatly Burgundy. Vintage port continues to go extremely Daily wine auctions, starting from to this figure with 27 per cent of lots selling at or well with 1983 Dows (42 per cent), 1963 Romariz $9 per case, with a 30-day money above the high estimate. Key contributing brands Colheita (23 per cent) and 1985 Taylors (10 per back guarantee. Fine wine auctions from NZ that worked very well included some of the cent) - all above the high estimate. However, one of end Monday-Tuesday-Thursday each usual suspects: Felton Road (across all varieties but the bargains of the evening was the 1994 Fonseca, week. Port and spirit auctions end on especially pinot noir), Kumeu River chardonnays, a Wine Spectator 100-point wine selling at the lower Wednesdays. Rippon Old Vine pinots, Bell Hill, Pyramid Valley, end of the estimate - which only goes to prove you Fromm pinots, Milton Clos Ste Anne, along with the can never tell what will happen on the night. For All dates subject to change without highly consistent Esk Valley The Terraces and Villa more information contact Reece Warren, Mossgreen- notice. Webb’s Head of Fine & Rare Wines at reece.warren@ mossgreen-webbs.co.nz. ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS (OCTOBER REPORT, by GRAHAM WRIGHT) They came. They tasted. Then they conquered. I’m of course referring to the remnants of our Heat Affected Sale that were originally offered in August 2016. The feedback from our buyers was almost unanimous: the wines were sound - so they came back for more! There were some disappointments, but certainly not as many as I was expecting, which really leaves me in a quandary about wine and how it’s stored. Could it be that wine is a lot stronger than we make it out to be? Or is it the fact our expectations are diminished once we realise the discount for poor storage? I suppose it’s all about taking a punt and with this cellar it appeared to be a highly successful one. Top dollar for October went to one of these wines and a quite spectacular one at that - a bottle of 1978 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Grand Cru Richebourg (level 5cm below bottom of capsule, minor cellar scuffed label) which achieved a hammer price of $115. This48 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017

wine investment & collectingwas closely followed by a bottle of 1965 Penfolds Bin specialist rums all attracted keen bidding and good hammer at $800. In second position, achieving95 Grange Shiraz - RWC 1994 (VVHS, badly cellar clearances. Looking at Oddbins’ Top 10 auction $322, was an ornamental decanter of Bundabergscuffed and torn label) with a hammer price of $1000. performers for October and the Top 10 Hammer Vat 100 Centenary Rum in its original case (levelThe most intense bidding in October was on a bottle Prices, Australian Wine table is proof that demand 6cm below bottom of capsule, weeping cork). Theof cognac from Denis Mounie that went 100 per for Grange continues, with this wine securing all but allure of Bundy Rum still defies considered opinion,cent over the top end of the guides, while a German one place on the list. In addition to the previously but Portuguese ports always remain a favouriteriesling from Von Othegraven went 40 per cent mentioned 1965 Grange for $1000, a magnum of with Oddbins’ buyers. A bottle of 1977 Fonsecaabove. The rage for Grange continued with even the 1980 Bin 95 Grange Shiraz (VHS) - in its original Vintage Port (cellar scuffed and nicked label)scruffy examples being swept up in the keen bidding timber case - fetched $750, with a magnum of 2008 achieved $150, with a boxed bottle of Quinta dofor this most famous of Aussie wines. Pleasingly, most Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon - also in its Noval Over 40 Years Tawny Port (VVHS) - bottledof our Penfolds lots on offer cleared well, including original timber case - achieving $602. Exotic was 1974 - fetching $90. In terms of how far Oddbins’Bins 707, 28 and 389. What was noticeable, though, the main attraction when it came to Non Penfolds/ buyers were willing to bid in October, once again itwere the good clearances also achieved for Bin 2 Henschke wines with the Top 10 Hammer Prices was all about the prime auction favourite - Penfolds,Riesling and Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz. Sadly, the here dominated by Torbreck RunRig, Hentley Farm Henschke and Rockford. Heading up the Top 10short supply of Hill of Grace - one of the great rivals and Rockford SVS. That said, a magnum of Wynns Australian Performers, Percentage Above Top Endto the Penfolds super brand - also continues. That Coonawarra Estate Michael Coonawarra Shiraz - of Guides list was a 2010 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernetsaid, other Henschke premiums, including Cyril, from the important 1998 year (level into neck, cellar Sauvignon (cellar stained labels) which went 37.3Keyneton Estate, Mt Edelstone and Tappa Shiraz all scuffed label) - headed up this table at $170. The first per cent over the top, while a 1999 Henschke Cyrilcleared above expectation in October. Other wines two spots on the Top 10 Hammer Prices, Imported Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon (heat-affected) fromin our buyer sights in October were older Bowen Wine list for October went to the aforementioned Eden Valley went 23.7 per cent above and a 2001cabernets, 1992 Burge Meshach, 2001 Jamiesons 1978 DRC Richebourg and a 1978 Domaine de Rockford SVS Pressings Shiraz from the BarossaRun Alexanders Block and Kilikanoon’s Oracle and la Romanee Conti Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux went 13 per cent over. It’s been awhile but in OctoberProphecy premiums from the 2000s. All attracted (cellar scuffed label) which achieved $881. The we saw our buyers chasing a few of the imported lotskeen bidding. Long-term auction favourites such remainder of the table was a mix of the familiar and on offer - some of them heat-affected like the 1984as Noon Eclipse and Reserves from the 2000s, not so well-known, including a 1997 Abreu Vineyard half bottle of Chateau d’Yquem 1er Cru SuperieurRockford Basket Press and SVS from the 1990s Madrona Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Sauternes (level into neck, minor cellar stained label)through to the late 2000s, Wendouree Blends and Valley in third position with a hammer price of $499, which went 27.8 per cent above the top end of theWynns Black Label Cabernet, Shiraz and V&A Lane equalling the result achieved for a 1982 Chateau guides. The German riesling mentioned earlier that- also cleared well. With the imported category it was Leoville Las Cases 2me Cru St Julien (minor cellar went 40 per cent over the top end of guides, was aall about the remnant Bordeaux and Burgundy heat- scuffed capsule). To fortified wine and spirits and 1997 Weingut Von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenbergaffected stock, along with a rarely seen collection of the Top 10 Hammer Prices list here was headed by Mosel Saar Ruwer Riesling. Finally, a boxed bottlePortuguese ports all clearing above expectation. In a half bottle of 1912 Seppeltsfield Para Centennial of Denis Mounie F.O.V. Cognac took out the topthe fortified and spirits categories Para numbered Collection Vintage Tawny. Offered in its original case, spot on the Top 10 Fortified and Spirit Performers,series, Johnnie Walker blends and Bundaberg it took a bit of time but this lot finally went under the Percentage Above Top End of Guides list - going a Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... What we do Best! It’s Annual 2017 W I N E S TAT E 49

wine investment & collectingfull 100 per cent over. This category also saw strong after 2040! The subjects of wine and investment are wine investment model was perfected in thebidding on a number of para’s, including a boxed hard to keep apart - a perfect pairing of attractive gentleman’s clubs of Victorian London: “Expertly buybottle of Seppelt Para Liqueur Port 105 which went opposites, the workable marriage of convenience - double your need of new releases. Wait for demand24 per cent above the guides. For more information with convenience being the main driver. As always, to push up prices and sell half at a significant profit.”visit www.oddbins.com.au. let’s clear the decks of any illusions. Making real The aim? The remainder has been paid for in profits money from buying and selling wine is possible, but and can be drunk at no cost! In my experience,STERLING WINE AUCTIONS it’s very hard and needs plenty of expertise, money working with hobby wine investors for almost 20 and time. Wine investment is as easy/hard as trading years, I can draw some conclusions. Wine on the(OCTOBER REPORT, by LYNTON BARBER) race horses, coins, stamps or art. It’s not for the “list” can provide attractive returns over five-10 years. amateur, nor the player who depends on the results. Averaged out and considering storage and wastageAs another wine wonder year ends, it’s a good time There’s always a new “must have” investment. In the costs, along with the costs of tying up your cash,to take a look at the performers and the opportunities past it was vintage wrist watches and electric guitars. wine investment is largely a capital stable venture.ahead. It’s also the time that Penfolds amazes the The latest, I believe, is pink diamonds. Now, before You might not make a big return. You are unlikely towine world with some super-slick new premium I overthrow the kill-joy, here’s one last downer. Selling make a big loss. Let’s start with the “list” - it’s prettyreleases and fabulous price increases - as always, your collection of pink diamonds will take time and simple to define, but would need a PhD thesis toposing the perennial question: is the newly-released costly access to highly specialised markets present the case. Locking down age, brands andPenfolds Grange, at $850 a bottle, a good investment? dominated by a small number of big players. Selling varieties is easy and boring. 10-year-old bottles ofLooking back at “the ones that got away” is also a your dream collection of perfect Penfolds Grange red are usually at their peak. Don’t hold for too long.great festive season tradition. The biggest story of 1971s and ’76s is a very similar proposition. Moving There is plenty of evidence pointing at five-10 yearsthe past wine auction year was the 2010 Penfolds St too much stock into a stable market can see dramatic being the hold term for white wines, particularlyHenri - huge points, amazing current drinking price falls. What is the world demand for 1971 chardonnay. Boring? The simple fact is, thereputation and demand that has pushed auction Grange? Would a few hundred bottles, dropped in investment market is dominated by fewer than 100prices up to around double other recent vintages. In at the same time, see prices drop? Even more brands. Variety? Again boring - shiraz and cabernetmy opinion, lament not buying the maximum sobering, it’s likely there is no one in the world who sauvignon - that’s it! Forget the rest. Don’t even thinkavailable on release, but buy a bottle anyway. This owns 500+ bottles of 1971 Penfolds Grange. At a about whites. Of course there are exceptions. Sure,is a true freak - a wine that will stand out in any record price of $2000 a bottle, this massive dream Chateau Petrus is merlot, good money can be madecompany. On the flipside, looking ahead and for lots collection is worth around $1 million. My guess: it’d with burgundy/pinot noir and, yes, Grosset Polishof reasons, I see sauternes as undervalued - a take around one year to sell 500 bottles - likely longer Hill Riesling has appreciated in value, while topsubject worthy of serious investigation and long-term - without driving the market down. Compare that to semillons from Tyrrells and Brokenwood arecommitment. Certainly, fashions come and go but many top 100 public companies that trade over $1 demanded as back vintages. Storage and closurethe silver lining in this story is the timeline. Sauternes million in shares every hour of the day and night. So, choice are of huge importance. Beyond thewith important meals will come back in fashion and let’s agree. Making a living out of trading back expectation of ideal temp and humidity climate, theyou don’t have to risk holding sauternes for too long. vintage wine is for the experts, but that’s no reason label and capsule must be perfect. Damaged labels30-50 years is a reasonable shelf life and many are for us to stop dabbling and having fun. The classic - scratches, humidity bubbles and discolouration -extreme stayers. The 1971 Chateau d’Yquem,already 45 years old, is not expected to peak untilFINE & RARE WINESMossgreen-Webb’s and Mossgreen setthe standard for well-cellared and highlysought-after wines from around the world.We are now seeking consignments for our 2017 auctions. Please contact one ofour experienced specialists for an auction valuation and to discuss consignment.NEW ZEALAND: AUSTRALIA:Reece Warren +64 9 524 6804 Michael Katoa +61 3 9508 [email protected] [email protected]–25 Falcon Street 926–930 High StreetParnell Auckland Armadale VIC 314350 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2017