regional tasting          McLaren Vale Grape Wine & TourismWINERIES                                        A B C D E F GH I J K LMNOP QR S T U V                                         1Australian Boutique Wines           O15  2                                                                       The “Fleurieu Way”Battle of Bosworth*                 L24  3                                                                       Tourist Route 60Bent Creek                          N16  4                                                                       Shiraz TrailBraydun Hill Vineyard*              J8   5                                                                       Dirt RoadChalk Hill Wines*                   K17  6                                                                       Railway LineChapel Hill Wines                   L11  7                                                                       Air eldChateau Reynella                    K1   8                                                                       Public LibraryCoriole Vineyards & Coterie         L13  9d’Arenberg / d’Arry’s Verandah      K15  10                                                                            Map Updated August 2009Dennis Wines                        L18  11Dogridge Wines                      Q15  12Dowie Doole                         L19  13Foggo Wines                         M17  14Fox Creek Wines                     K22  15Gemtree Vineyards                   L19  16Geo Merrill Wines                   M2   17Graham Stevens Wines                P15  18Halifax Wines *                     M23  19Hardy Tintara                       J17  20Ho mann’s Wines                     P15  21Hugh Hamilton Wines                 L20  22Hugo Wines                          R15  23Kangarilla Road Vineyard & Winery   Q17  24Kay Bros Amery Vineyard             M13  25Lavina Wines                        J17  26Lazy Ballerina                      U24  27Lecon eld Wines                     K20  28Lloyd Brothers                      J15  29Maximus Wines*                      N16  30Maxwell Wines                       K16  31McLaren Vale Premium Wines          J17  32Middlebrook Estate                  O18  33Noon Winery (cellar door seasonal)  N21Olivers Tarranga Vineyards          J14Oliverhill Winery                   J13Oxenberry Farm Wines                K18Paper Eagle / Ekhidna Wines         J18Parri Estate                        P16Paxton Wines                        H15Penny’s Hill & Mr. Riggs            K22Pertaringa Wines                    O21Possums Vineyard*                   L23Potters Clay*                       L20Primo Estate                        L12Rosemount Estate                    L11Samuels Gorge                       O17Scarpantoni Estate Wines            L18Sera no Wines                       J13Settlement Wines                    I16Shingleback Wine                    Q15Shottesbrooke Winery                K16Tapestry Wines                      M19Wirra Wirra Vineyards               P14Woodstock Winery & Coterie          P14Yangarra Estate Vineyard            J30Zimmermann Wines* Cellar Door by appointment onlyACCOMMODATION                                FOOD                              ATTRACTIONS3 Divas                             I17      3 Monkey’s Fine Food         M26  Adelaide Biplanes            F27Amande B&B                          H22      Awganix                      J17  Bella Cosa Gallery           N17Amande at the Beach                 D19      Blessed Cheese               J17  McLaren Vale Lavender        M13Aunt Amandas Cottage                U11      Christina’s on High          M26  Medlow Confectionery         J17Beachwoods Eco Tourist Park         D22      d’Arry’s Verandah            K15  & Fruchocs Showcase          Q28Bellevue Bed & Breakfast            J17      FINO                         L25  Magpie Springs               L26Bethany Chapel B&B                  M20      Ho mann’s Currant Shed       P15  Studio/Gallery/Cellar Door*  N20Black Rabbit Cottage                R16      Market 190                   J17  Minko Wines                  K17Blushing Grape B&B                  K26      Middlebrook Estate           O18  Red PolesChristina’s Cottage                 M26      Russell’s Pizza              M26  The Chocolate BoxGui Al Mare                         D14      The Barn                     J16Hawthorne of Willunga B&B           L25      The Kitchen Door Restaurant  K22Ingleburn Homestead                 K22      at Penny’s Hill & Mr Riggs   J15Linger Longer Vineyard              H24      The Olive Grove              D33Lot 7 Cottage                       N16      The Victory Hotel            P14McLaren Vale Bed & Breakfast        L19      Woodstock Winery & CoterieMcLaren Vale Lakeside Caravan Park  K17McLaren Vale Motel & Apartments     I17                                                                     McLaren Vale Grape Wine & TourismPeppermint Farm Cottage B&B         N21                                                                     T. 08 8323 8999Rosebank Studio                     L18                                                                     E. [email protected] Vales B&B                  J16                                                                     www.mclarenvale.infoThe Blue Grape                      J30The Victory Hotel                   D33The Vintage                         I17Villa Grenache                      N16Wine & Roses                        I17                                                                               July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E  101
FLEURIEU PENINSULA78 TASTED57 AWARDEDFLEURIEU PENINSULA &SURROUNDING REGIONSNormally included in our annual McLaren Vale tasting,                Other Dry                         Vinteloper PG13this time we separated the other surrounding cool-                   White Varietals                   Southern Fleurieu Pinotclimate regions of Langhorne Creek, Currency Creek,                  & Blends                          Gris 2013 HHHSouthern Fleurieu and Kangaroo Island into its own                                                     Slightly closed aromas withdesignated tasting. It makes sense as these sub-regions              8 TASTED                          just a hint of florals. Palate hasare climatically quite different to the warmer McLaren               4 AWARDED                         excellent fruit intensity andVale region and have their own advantages. Here we                                                     length. $26see more mid-weight, vibrant varietal characters in the              A mixed group of fresh easy       Bremerton Mollie &wines, offering a point of difference in their own right.            drinking styles.                  Merle Langhorne Creek                                                                                                       Verdelho 2013 HHH                                                                                                       Intense herbaceous bouquet                                                                                                       and flavoursome palate with                                                                                                       some sweetness but in                                                                                                       balance. $17Sparkling                          Kimbolton Langhorne                                                 Chardonnay                                   Creek Sparkling5 TASTED                           Sauvignon Blanc NV HHH                                              5 TASTED4 AWARDED                          “Funky” fragrances and a                                            3 AWARDED                                   delicate but serious palate withThe judges found this to be a      nicely evolved flavours. $18                                        A small but very strong groupconsistent group of pleasant cool                                                                      of chardonnays not onlyclimate creamy sparkling wines.                                                                        showing excellent fruit but                                                                                                       also excellent winemaking.                                                                                                       “You can rely on chardonnay                                                                                                       for flavour and complexity,”                                                                                                       summed up one of the judges.                                                                                                       Lake Breeze Reserve                                                                                                       Langhorne Creek                                                                                                       Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2                                                                                                       A big serious wooded style                                                                                                       with intense, rich candied                                                                                                       fruit notes to the nose and an                                                                                                       “unapologetically” huge palate-                                                                                                       very flavoursome with lots of                                                                                                       interest. $24Temple Bruer                       Mt Jagged Southern                Temple Bruer Organic              Bremerton BattonageOrganic Langhorne Creek            Fleurieu Single Vineyard          Langhorne Creek Chenin            Langhorne CreekSparkling Pure Red                 Sparkling Red                     Blanc 2013 HHH                    Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2NV HHH                             NV HHH                            Subtle tropical fruit aromas and  A beautifully integrated classicNice damson plums on the           Intense perfumed/                 soft nicely balanced palate.      style of chardonnay with fruitnose with meaty notes. Similar     floral bouquet and slight         “Typically Chenin”. $15.50        reminiscent of melons andcharacters on the palate. $17.50   confectionery sweetness on        Blackbilly Adelaide Pinot         apples and balanced with just a90 Mile Fleurieu Peninsula         the red fruit palate. $18         Gris 2013 HHH                     hint of smoky oak. “So suave,”Brut Cuvee NV HHH                                                    Quite complex on the nose with    said one judge. $32Light and fruity on the nose;                                        a gentle hint of apples. Good     Blackbilly Adelaidesweet and creamy in the                                              palate length and texture. $18    Chardonnay 2013 HHHmouth. Lovely apple/melon                                                                              A Chablis style with subtlecharacters. $18                                                                                        stonefruit aromas. A sweet                                                                                                       palate; more citrus driven. $18104 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
regional tastingOther Dry Red                       Handcrafted by GeoffVarietals &                         Hardy Langhorne CreekBlends                              Barbera 2012 HHHH                                    A good food wine - deep, dark13 TASTED                           and brooding. Some pleasant10 AWARDED                          cooked characters on the nose                                    and a flavoursome palate withAn excellent class of diverse       serious tannins. $30varieties and styles. These         Handcrafted by Geoffare young wines with lots           Hardy Langhorne Creekof attractive primary fruit.        Malbec 2012 HHHH“Very true to the variety with      Ripe plum aromas lift off theauthentic varietal character,”      nose with just a hint of mochacommented one judge.                notes. Palate has intense                                    upfront dark fruit flavours.Bremerton Special                   Needs food. $30Release Langhorne Creek             Vinteloper LanghorneMalbec 2012 HHHHH                   Creek Touriga NacionalA beautifully structured,           2012 HHHHyoung, dense wine with loads        Sweet and licorice-like on theof sweet ripe dark plum and         nose which follows through oncherry-like fruit with just a hint  to the long elegant palate. Lotsof oak. Very intense aromas         of wood and nicely roundedand a great flavoursome             tannins. $30palate. $24                         Blackbilly Adelaide                                    Sangiovese 2013 HHH1/2                                    Easy drinking style full of fresh                                    berry fruit characters, some                                    nice oak and some grippy                                    tannins on the finish. $20                                    Bremerton Special                                    Release Langhorne Creek                                    Tempranillo Graciano                                    2012 HHH1/2                                    Smells of ripe cherries with                                    nice level of wood. Intensely                                    rich palate layered with ripe                                    tannins. Needs food! $24                                    Vasarelli Maria’s                                    Table Currency Creek                                    Sangiovese 2013 HHH                                    Raspberry-like aromas                                    with meaty undertones.                                    Savoury aromatic palate.                                    A pure style. $16.99                                    Kimbolton Brads Block                                    Langhorne Creek                                    Montepulciano 2012 HHH                                    Ripe plum primary fruit aromas                                    with a herbal undercurrent.                                    Pure primary fruit palate. “Very                                    more-ish.” $28Temple Bruer Organic                Handcrafted by GeoffLanghorne Creek                     Hardy Langhorne CreekGrenache Shiraz Viognier            Graciano 2012 HHH2007 HHHH1/2                        Excellent primary fruit intensityNice woody earthy elements          here balanced with nice tannicto the very vibrant spicy nose.     sweetness. $30Silky smooth palate with sweetflavours showing some subtlesecondary development andlovely acid on the finish. $17.50                                                                       July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E  105
FLEURIEU PENINSULACabernet                                                               Cabernet                          Parsons PaddockBlends                                                                                                   Langhorne Creek                                                                       10 TASTED                         Cabernet Sauvignon8 TASTED                                                               9 AWARDED                         2012 HHH                                                                                                         A tight well-structured cool5 AWARDED                                                              A very strong class! “Lovely      climate style that just need time                                                                       regional cool climate characters  in the cellar to settle. $14.95A solid group with the                                                 of menthol and eucalyptuscabernet shiraz blends                                                 without any herbaceousness,”      Heartland Langhorneperforming well. “The shiraz                                           said one judge.                   Creek Cabernetbrings the wine to a higher                                                                              Sauvignon 2012 HHHlevel,” noted one judge.                                               Steeple Jack South                Young, simple and very linear                                                                       Australia Cabernet                showing some fruit sweetness.Stonyfell Black Langhorne                                              Sauvignon 2013 HHHH1/2            In need of time! $19.99Creek Cabernet Shiraz                                                  A beautiful long, lean and        Cleggett Wines Men of2012 HHHH1/2                                                           elegant deep purple cabernet.     Kent Langhorne CreekA youthful purple wine with                                            Still very youthful with a        Cabernet Sauvignonfantastic aromatics on the                                             genuine varietal nose showing     2012 HHHnose and nice herbal nuances.                                          a nice subtlety of oak and an     A riper style with forward fruitElegant fruit expression on                                            extremely juicy palate. “Very     and gentle tannins. Restrainedthe palate with good length                                            more-ish.” $10                    nose and a tight palate. $25of oak and an elegance of                                                                                Landcross Adelaidetannins. $27.99                                                        Lake Breeze Langhorne             Cabernet Sauvignon                                                                       Creek Cabernet                    2011 HHHBremerton Tamblyn                                                      Sauvignon 2012 HHHH               Very spicy and minty on theLanghorne Creek                                                        Powerful licoricey fruit aromas   nose. Soft and sweet in theCabernet Shiraz Malbec                                                 with a menthol lift. Lovely       mouth with good acidity. $142012 HHHH                                                              ripe rich dark fruit flavoursTight and intense with excellent                                       framed by delicate oak and finecellaring potential. Deep purple                                       tannins. $22colour, spicy red berry noseand a beautifully structured                                           Graham Stevens Winespalate.  5+ $18                                                        Fleurieu Peninsula                                  Temple Bruer Organic                 Cabernet Sauvignon                                  Langhorne Creek Cabernet             2010 HHHH                                  Merlot 2008 HHHH                     Juicy ripe fruit lift to the                                  Lifted varietal aromatics with       woody nose. Vibrant fruit                                  nice buttery notes. Long and         flavours with good oak                                  elegant palate that’s still quite    integration and fine tannins                                  lively with subtle secondary         with warming alcohol. $30                                  development. $17.50                                  False Cape Unknown                   Bremerton Coulthard               Shiraz Blends                                  Sailor Kangaroo                      Langhorne Creek                                  Island Cabernet Merlot               Cabernet Sauvignon                8 TASTED                                  2010 HHH1/2                          2012 HHH1/2                       8 AWARDED                                  A “serious” wine that’s lively       Young and woody with                                  and elegant with a vibrancy of       deep, dark and intense spicy      Another strong consistent                                  mint lifting off the nose and a      berry fruit and some serious      group. “Here we see very                                  decent length of flavour. $19        tannins. Needs more time.         pleasant sweet spicy berry                                  Area Red Blend Langhorne                                               characters with impressive                                  Creek Cabernet Shiraz                        3-5 $22                   depth,” said one judge.                                  Malbec 2011 HHH                      Bremerton Walters Reserve                                  Mature fruit and warm wood           Langhorne Creek Cabernet                                  nose. Palate still quite tight with  Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2                                  lots of sweet tannins. $38.99        Dark and fruity on the nose                                                                       with briary undertones. Good                                                                       fruit/oak flavour depth layered                                                                       with sweet tannins. $50judges                 Jacques Lurton                                        Mark Lloyd                        Adam Jarvis                 Owner/winemaker of The Islander                       Proprietor and                    Freelance Editor &                 Estate, Kangaroo Island’s premier                     winemaker for                     Writer and on Dan                 winery & vineyard. One of the                         Coriole. More than                Murphy’s Fine Wine                 world’s first flying winemakers. Has                  25 years’ experience              Panel. Decades of                 made wine in more than 25 regions                     in the wine industry.             Hospitality & Liquor                 in 10 countries across 64 vintages.                   Associate judge                   Retail Experience.                 Based in Bordeaux, he spends                          at the Adelaide                 close to 3 months in Australia each                   Wine Show.                 year. Celebrating his 30th Australian                 Member of Olive Oil                 vintage in 2014.                                      Assessment Panel.106 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
regional tasting                                    Heartland Spice Trader            Stonyfell Black                      Brothers in Arms No. 6                                    Langhorne Creek Shiraz            Langhorne Creek Shiraz               Langhorne Creek Shiraz                                    Cabernet 2012 HHH                 2012 HHHH1/2                         2012 HHH1/2                                    Cool spicy red berry aromatics    Deep crimson/purple hues with        Evolved herbaceous aromas                                    and lovely savoury expression     dark, brooding, leathery/mocha       with some toastiness. An                                    to the elegant palate. $16.99     aromas and an elegant well-          attractive balanced sweetness                                    Lake Breeze Bernoota              balanced palate with powerful        of fruit on the palate. $22                                    Langhorne Creek Shiraz            juicy fruit, subtle oak and lively                                    Cabernet 2012 HHH                 acidity. $27.99                      Lake Breeze Section 54                                    A warm and quite simple style                                          Langhorne Creek Shiraz                                    with lovely varietal fruit and                                         2012 HHH1/2                                    some good wood. $19                                                    A complex and slightly porty                                    Area Red Blend                                                         bouquet with an intense yet                                    Langhorne Creek Shiraz                                                 elegant palate with firm tannin                                    Cabernet 2012 HHH                                                      support.  3-5 $24                                    Dark berries and wood on                                    the nose and a light bodied                                            Bullant Langhorne Creek                                    varietal palate with drying                                            Shiraz 2012 HHH                                    tannins. $38.99                                                        Very smooth, sweet,                                    Stonyfell Bin 62 Langhorne                                             structured and balanced that’s                                    Creek Shiraz Cabernet                                                  loaded with dark berry and                                    Malbec 2012 HHH                                                        plum elements. $16                                    Lovely nose - smells like                                    the forest floor! Soft, sweet                                          Brothers in Arms Side by                                    and fruity in the mouth.                                               Side Shiraz 2012 HHH                                    Cellar it. $38.99                                                      Sweet, simple and oaky with                                                                                                           warming alcohol and some                                    Shiraz                                                                 hints of confectionery fruit. $27Temple Bruer Organic                18 TASTED                                                              Kimbolton House BlockLanghorne Creek Shiraz              13 AWARDED                                                             Langhorne Creek ShirazMalbec 2008 HHHH1/2                                                                                        2010 HHHA big rich food wine. Lovely        Dolan X20                                                              A very classic old style shiraz.ripe plum fruit purity on           Langhorne Creek                                                        Woody nose and tannic palatethe nose with some age              Shiraz 2012 HHHHH                                                      with fruit sweetness. Needscomplexity. Very rich, sweet        Fresh and youthful with a nice                                         time. $20palate that’s smooth and round      balance of wood and fruit onin the mouth. Still has plenty of   the nose and some herbal          Cleggett Wines The                   Step Road Langhornefreshness. $25.50                   nuances. Dark fruit palate with   McLennan Langhorne Creek             Creek Shiraz 2010 HHHBrothers in Arms No. 6              the sweetness, acidity and        Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2                  A nicely evolving classic withLanghorne Creek Shiraz              tannins all in perfect balance.   A great cool climate style with      licoricey fruit and vanillin oak.Cabernet 2012 HHHH1/2               Good cellaring potential. $48.99  very inviting spicy development      Very ripe but it’s okay. $21.90An excellent, well-made, silky                                        to the nose and velvety smoothsmooth style with the cabernet                                        palate with dark fruit intensity     Kimbolton The Rifleman“pleasantly dominating”.                                              supported by some lovely rich        Langhorne Creek ShirazRestrained classically cool                                           tannins. $40                         2010 HHHclimate aromas and a velvety                                                                               A very serious, rich, classicpalate with lovely tannin                                             Heartland Langhorne                  Aussie style. Quite woody butstructure. $22                                                        Creek Shiraz 2012 HHHH               has some lovely dark fruit. $50David Owen Advocate                                                   Very fruity nose with niceLanghorne Creek Shiraz                                                intensity of cedary oak.             Sweet White &Cabernet 2012 HHHH                                                    Beautifully textured palate that’s   FortifiedA classic Aussie style with                                           rich with juicy fruit and supportedexcellent lifted fruit/intense                                        by drying tannins. $19.99            2 TASTEDoak aromatics and an elegantexpression of varietal fruit on                                                                            1 AWARDEDthe sweet woody palate. $26.99Bremerton Battonage                                                   Tail Spin Langhorne Creek            Kimbolton VP LanghorneLanghorne Creek Shiraz                                                Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2                   Creek Durif Vintage PortMalbec 2012 HHH1/2                                                    Classic cool climate shiraz.         2010 HHH1/2A tightly structured wine still                                       Nice herbal aromatics with           Nose and palate both showingvery young with attractive                                            a hint of menthol. Dark fruit        a great intensity of raisins, fruitlicorice/meaty elements. Offers                                       flavours framed by oak and           cake and mocha-like charactersplenty of cellaring potential. $32                                    tannins. $14.95                      underscored by fresh acidity. $25                                                                      Bremerton Selkirk                                                                      Langhorne Creek Shiraz                                                                      2012 HHH1/2                                                                      An elegant aromatic style                                                                      with a very woody nose                                                                      and quite a tannic palate.                                                                      Offering good cellaring                                                                      potential.   3-5 $22                                                                                                  July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E       107
travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINTASMANIABUNK DOWN HERE                                   wish to self cater, although there are also       destinations. Tasmania’s second-largest city,                                                 several good takeaway food outlets in the         often overshadowed by Hobart, is at theIS IT a hotel? Not really. Is it a guesthouse?   neighbourhood.                                    junction of the North Esk and South Esk rivers,Not exactly. Is it a hostel? Well not like any                                                     where they join to become the Tamar River,hostel you’ve stayed in before.                    There is a long dining table, and tables for    as is arguably the city’s best hotel- PeppersRose Flynn and Antony Langdon, the               two on the upper and lower balconies, as          Seaport. The suites here have spectacularyoung owners of Hobart’s newest chic             well as outdoor tables with umbrellas and         marina views and are spacious and wellaccommodation offering, call their new           picnic rugs for those who want to laze on         equipped with iPod dock, satellite TV andproperty Montacute Boutique Bunkhouse.           the lawn with a glass of Tasmanian pinot          wi-fi capability.Opened in April, it has been described as        noir (Montacute is BYO but plans a winebeing perfect for those with champagne           list focusing on local producers).                  Mud Bar and Restaurant, now run by formertastes on a beer budget.                                                                           Stillwater chef Don Cameron, is part of the                                                   The bunkhouse hires out new bicycles            same complex and the waterfront Seaport  A beautifully restored 1895 mansion in the     for $25 a day, or $20 after 1pm and also          strip with its cafes and eateries (including asuburb of Battery Point (with an extension       organises a range of excursions to the            fish and chippery) is just a few paces away.built in 1910), Montacute has delightful         likes of the Huon and the Derwent valleys.gardens, plenty of car parking and is within     Montacute Boutique Bunkhouse, 1 Stowell             Peppers Seaport Hotel, 28 Seaport Blvd,walking distance of both Salamanca Place         Ave, Battery Point, Hobart; phone (03) 6212       Launceston; phone (03) 6345 3333. www.and downtown Hobart. From the outside it         0474. www.montacute.com.au.                       peppers.com.au/seaport.looks gracious, and inside is a revelationwith recent renovations and some tasteful        GATEWAY TO THE TAMAR                              NEW FACEdecorating resulting in what looks like achic, boutique hotel, with lovely lounges,       LAUNCESTON is a delightful city - the             FORMER Meadowbank chef Wayne Smithverandas and nooks and crannies. The             gateway to the Tamar Valley Wine Route            has come on board to help the food offeringbedrooms, too, are simple but delightful.        and full of historic buildings and beautiful      at The Coterie, which is part of the Coal ValleyAll feature beds with crisp cotton linen,        parks. Settled in 1806, it is one of              Vineyard’s cellar door complex, althoughduvets, woollen blankets and fluffy pillows,     Australia’s oldest cities and was named           the businesses are run separately. Sheraleewith reading lamps and power points for          after Launceston in Cornwall. There               Davies and Amy Russell are the owners andall, and free wi-fi throughout the property.     are many well-preserved Victorian and             operate independently of the winery - and                                                 Georgian homes. It retains a very English         have plenty of plans for the next few months.  So how, then, can double rooms in this         feel and moves at the pace of a country           The Coterie offers live music each Sundaydelightful establishment cost just $50           town. Locals and visitors alike enjoy a mix       afternoon, which has proved extremelyper person per night? And shared room            of top-notch eateries like Stillwater, Black      popular, and is now open Sunday to Tuesdaywith bunks cost just $40 per person? The         Cow Bistro and Novaro’s as well as many           10am-5pm, closed Wednesday and Thursday,answer is that none of the rooms have en         charming cafes (head to the Charles St            and open Friday and Saturday 10am-9pm.suite bathrooms; all washing facilities are      precinct for some of the best).                   There will be a special Bastille Day dinner onshared. Which Langdon and Flynn don’t                                                              Monday, July 14, and themed wine/beer/cider/see as an issue for most of their guests.          Spectacular Cataract Gorge, with its chairlift  food dinners are in the pipeline. The Coterie,                                                 rides, the Queen Victoria Museum and Art          257 Richmond Rd, Cambridge; phone (03)  “Since we’ve opened we’ve found a lot          Gallery and City Park with its Japanese           6248 5367. www.thecoterie.com.au.of people would prefer to save a couple of       macaque monkeys are all popular leisurehundred dollars a night on accommodationand spend that money enjoying Hobart’smany gourmet offerings and visits to wineregions,” they say.  So Montacute is luxurious and welcoming,and brilliantly situated, if you are willing tocompromise on having your own bathroom.Cooking facilities include a spaciouskitchen, with a range of appliances likemicrowaves and sandwich makers,crockery, cutlery, pots and pans, and plentyof fridge and freezer space for those who108 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
travelbriefsTRIBUTE TO THE PIONEERS                         THE BEST OF TASSIE                               free car parking, free movie channels and                                                                                                 Fox Sports channels on the TV.A SMALL family business in the picturesque      HOBART has a new wine bar/eatery/bottleHuon Valley is helping put Tasmanian            shop with the opening of the revamped              That’s nothing more than you would expectorganic cider on the map. Launched just         Tasman Quartermasters on Elizabeth,              at a chain hotel charging big bucks - butover 18 months ago by a fourth-generation       brainchild of well-known wine identity and       rooms, including continental breakfast, startapple farming family, Willie Smith’s Organic    cook Stuart Addison.                             from just $120 a night at Balmoral on York,Cider now has a cellar door and cafe.           TQ on Elizabeth serves a range of wines          making it something of a bargain. BalmoralAndrew Smith and his business partner Sam       from Tasmania and around the world by the        on York is in the downtown core, just aReid have drawn inspiration from Smith’s        glass and bottle, and they can be matched        block from Charles St and within walkingpioneering forebears to create Australia’s      with snacks like quesadillas, nachos and         distance of most of the city attractions, andfirst certified organic apple cidery, and       shwarmas, along with gourmet burgers,            the Tamar Valley Wine Route is a delightfulhave opened an apple museum as part of          steak sandwiches and occasional surprises.       nearby distraction. Some of the rooms havethe tasting facility. “The great thing is that  “We started as a restaurant but now we are       sweeping city views and it is a great base forwe can guarantee that everything in our         a wine bar that serves food,” Addison says.      anyone attending Festivale each February.ciders is 100 per cent natural,” says Smith.    Wines by the glass may range from the likes      There is the on-site Garden Terrace licensed“We see our business as a tribute to the        of Tasmanian labels Winstead and Bream           restaurant that serves excellent breakfastspioneers who first transformed Tasmania         Creek to imports from France and Spain.          and affordable modern Australian cuisineinto the ‘Apple Isle’ with honesty and hard     TQ on Elizabeth, 134 Elizabeth St,               at night, and several good eateries andwork. The Smith family is synonymous with       Hobart; phone (03) 6239 9119.                    bars, including the Black Cow Bistrosouthern Tasmania and apples. Smith’s great     www.tasmanquartermasters.com.au.                 steak house, Dickens Ciderhouse and thegrandfather William first planted apple trees                                                    excellent new St John beer bar, are withinat his Grove property, just outside the town    LOOKS ARE DECEIVING                              walking distance.of Huonville, in 1888 and the orchard hasoperated continuously since. Gourmets are       YOU CAN’T JUDGE a book by its cover.               All the rooms have Italian leather-cladwell catered for in the Huon with Panorama      Never has that saying been more true than        couches, quality beds, high-definition TVsVineyards, Hartzview, Two Bud Spur and          when talking about the excellent Balmoral        with satellite stations, wireless internet (soonElsewhere - wine producers with cellar          on York boutique hotel in Launceston. From       to be upgraded to NBN internet), moderndoors, and two other cider tasting rooms,       the outside, Balmoral on York looks like a       bathroom, airconditioning, mini-bar/fridgePagan Cider just outside Cygnet and Frank’s     dull apartment block, an unremarkable five-      (with Pagan cider and Fudgey Tasmanianat Franklin, as well as several outstanding     storey caramel and brown edifice. But once       fudge) and nice big towels. There is also ancafes and restaurants. Willie Smith’s,          you check in you’ll find quiet, well-equipped    on-site conference centre.2064 Huon Highway, Grove; phone                 rooms, mature staff for whom nothing is too(03) 6266 4345. www.williesmiths.com.au.        much trouble and little extras like free wi-fi,  Above Left: Willie Smiths Organic Apple Cider crate.                                                                                                 Above Right: Balmoral on York at night.                                                                                                 Opposite page: The Wharf at Peppers Seaport.                                                                                                 July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E  109
91 TASTED85 AWARDEDTASMA N I ARecognised as Australia’s major cool climate region,                House of Arras Grand               Clover Hill TasmaniaTasmania offers alternative drinking pleasures. Here we             Vintage Tasmania                   Cuvée NV HHHsee the elegance of floral and spicy whites, vibrant citrus         Methode Traditionnelle             A gentle and pretty wine withand tropical tones with the chardonnays and superb                  2004 HHHH1/2                       simple aromas and flavours ofstructural and layered varietal pinots that one judge               A somewhat subdued bouquet         apples and ginger. $32proclaimed could match Premier Cru Burgundies.                      with faint floral/minerally                                                                    characters. Good fine bead with    Moorilla Muse TasmaniaSPARKLING                         Relbia Estate Tasmania            a very refreshing palate laced     Brut 2009 HHH                                  Methode Traditionnelle            with lovely fresh acidity. $69.99  A high acid style with a nice18 TASTED                         NV HHHH1/2                        Abel’s Tempest Tasmania            line of lemon and red apple fruit                                  Citrussy-like fragrances with     Chardonnay Pinot Noir              characters. $4918 AWARDED                        delicate floral-like nuances      2011 HHHH                                  and a palate that has a crisp     A simple well-balanced             Heemskerk Coal River                                  mouthful of refreshing and        sparkling with a soft and rich     Valley Chardonnay Pinot                                  lively lemon fruit flavours. $NA  baked apple bouquet and a          Noir 2009 HHH                                                                    nutty, cashew, red apple flavour   Musty pungent bouquet andPirie Tasmania Methode            Ninth Island Tasmania             profile. $31.99                    lean green apple flavours with aTraditionnelle NV HHHHH           Methode Traditionnelle            Clover Hill Piper’s River          toasty edge. $59.99A delightful lift of green apple  NV HHHH1/2                        Methode Traditionnelleand lemon fragrances on the       A lovely nose - smells of         2009 HHHH                          Rieslingnose and a tight acid palate      lemons and green apples with      Smells of honey apples withoffering a creamy mouthful of     a honeyed note. The palate is     a hint of ginger. Nice palate      8 TASTEDbrambly-like flavours with a      complex with high level of acid   weight and richness with good      7 AWARDEDhint of European ‘hessian bag’    and mouthfilling spicy red apple  concentration and length ofcomplexity. $30                   flavours. $27                     flavours. $50                      A very strong class with floral,House of Arras                    House of Arras                    House of Arras Tasmania            spice and balancing acidityTasmania Blanc de Blanc           Brut Elite Tasmania               Pinot Noir Chardonnay              from this cool climate state.2004 HHHHH                        Methode Traditionnelle            Rosé 2004 HHHH                     “Tasmanian riesling is a well-A complex but elegant style       NV HHHH1/2                        Maraschino cherry bouquet          kept secret,” said one judge.of sparkling exhibiting a toasty  A citrussy complexity to the      with a slight smoky note andcitrussy bouquet and offering     nose with a good volume of        a hint of apples. Generous and     White Rock Vineyarda creamy seamless mouthful        complex red apple-like flavour    well-rounded palate tasting of     Tasmania Rieslingof crisp orange blossom and       characteristics layered with      dried apples. $79.99               2013 HHHHHroasted nut flavours. $79.99      lemon sherbet and oily walnut     Cape Bernier La Frontiere          Lovely light lime-like rieslingHouse of Arras EJ Carr            elements. $49.99                  Tasmania Cuvée Rosé                varietal fruit aromas on theLate Disgorged Tasmania           Piper’s Brook Tasmania            2011 HHH1/2                        nose with flavours moreMethode Traditionnelle            Methode Traditionnelle            A refreshing complexity of         at the tropical end of the2001 HHHHH                        2008 HHHH1/2                      floral characteristics seamlessly  flavour spectrum and nicelyA beautifully aged sparkling      A rich and complex wine           integrated with toffee apple-like  underscored by the acidity. $25that still appears amazingly      with aromas reminiscent of        fruit elements. $36fresh for its age. Lovely         red apples with a dash of         Josef Chromy Tasmania              Pipers Brook Tasmaniacomplexity of citrus, apricot     marmalade. Palate offers a        Chardonnay Pinot 2008              Riesling 2013 HHHH1/2and brioche-like characters with  nice nutty brioche balance of     HHH1/2                             Interesting combination ofa very fine mousse. $149.99       flavours. $37                     An attractive and simple fresh     citrussy aromas with apple-like                                  Lake Barrington Estate            style with lemon and white         notes. The palate is dry, clean                                  Alexandra Tasmania                floral characters on both the      and quite floral with good                                  Methode Traditionnelle            nose and the palate. $40           flavour length and lingering acid                                  2008 HHHH1/2                      Josef Chromy Cuvee                 finish. $34                                  Described by one judge as         Tasmania Methode                                  having “A bakery nose”. Nice      Traditionnelle NV HHH              Relbia Estate Tasmania                                  selection of peach, toast and     This wine is a refreshing          Riesling 2011 HHHH1/2                                  honey aromas with a light crisp   combination of baked quince,       A minerally citrus bouquet                                  floral palate showing nutty       honey and floral characters. $30   followed by quite a Germanic                                  sweetness. $45                                                       style of varietal palate showing                                                                                                       a delicious length of delicate                                                                                                       lime cordial-like flavours. $NA110 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
s a l e sonline                                           riversdaleestate.com.au RIVERSDALE ESTATE VINEYARD tasmaniaTasmania’s hidden brillianceRIVERSDALE ESTATE                        RIVERSDALE ESTATECottages                                 winesirresistible country life...             4 star winery...take the time...                                         James HallidayLuxury Country Estate CottageS, Set      Riversdale Estate is located in the CoalIn Award Winning Vineyard & Olive        River Valley and lies in the shadow ofGrove. 15 Minutes From Hobart CBD &      the Utas radio telescope. RiversdaleAirport. Panoramic water views, rolling  Estate produces MULTI-AWARD WINNINGcountryside & rambling walks. Purchase   single-vineyard wines & practicesdelicious gourmet delights from Island   sustainable viticulture. ENJOY OUR rangeOlive Grove, factory on estate.          of ultra premium cool climate wines!luxury accommodation                     NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL SALES     t: 0409 232 250 / 03 6248 5432                 t: 0428 991 152 / 03 6248 5666    e: [email protected]                      e: [email protected]
TA SMAN IAFreycinet Vineyard                 Josef SGR Delikat SGR              Sauvignon                          Riverdale Estate CoalTasmania Riesling                  Tasmania Sweet Riesling            Blanc                              River Valley Sauvignon2013 HHHH                          2013 HHHH                                                             Blanc 2013 HHHA pleasant grassiness to the       A sherbety citric driven style     9 TASTED                           Delicate lemon bouquet andnose with celery touches.          of riesling exhibiting a delicate  5 AWARDED                          nice spritzig character on thePalate has substance and           balance between the residual                                          palate. $22.99balance with grassy flavours       sugar, the varietal fruit and the  This shows again that aromatic     Josef Chromymingling with florals. $25         acid. $26                          styles do well here although a     Tasmania SauvignonHolm Oak Estate                                                       mixed result of both excellent     Blanc 2013 HHHTasmania Riesling                                                     wines showing varietal             Sweet fruit aromas with flavours2012 HHHH                                                             character, acidity and length      resembling confectionery pearA distinct citrussy nose with a                                       with wines lacking varietal        drops. $26hint of passionfruit and some                                         character or with sulphide,gingery notes. A chalky lemon                                         earthy (reductive) issues.         Pinot Grigio/palate with just a touch of                                                                              Grisgreenness. $24.99                                                                                                         13 TASTEDBream Creek Tasmania               Pipers Brook Tasmania              Bream Creek Tasmania               12 AWARDEDRiesling 2011 HHHH                 Gewurztraminer                     Sauvignon Blanc                    The judges found this to beLovely tropical fruit-like aromas  2013 HHHH                          2013 HHHHH                         a solid well-balanced class.with spicy/ginger nuances and      A classic gewürztraminer with      Very attractive stalky/herbal      “Lean without being dilute,”a delicate varietal fruit-driven   its lovely lychee bouquet and      varietal characters on the         suggested one judge.palate offering great flavour      delicate but juicy palate. “Some   nose. Palate showing lengthlength. $26                        clever winemaking,” said one       and balance with good grassy       Ninth Island Tasmania                                   judge. $34                         sauvignon blanc flavours           Pinot Grigio 2013Eddystone Point Tasmania           Holm Oak Tasmania                  and some toasty complexity         HHHH1/2Riesling 2013 HHH                  Arneis 2012 HHH1/2                 developing. $26                    A fabulous varietal nose layeredAn aromatic collection of          A delicate and somewhat dry                                           with tropical/lychee and spicytropical/pineapple aromas with     style with a very pleasant and     Ninth Island Tasmania              aromas. A lightweight palate,more tropical characters on the    crisp pear-like character and a    Sauvignon Blanc                    seamlessly balanced and nicelypalate. $25.99                     high level of acidity. $24.99      2013 HHH1/2                        rounded with faint pear-like                                   Iron Pot Bay Unwooded              Good varietal characters on        flavour profile. $23Other White                        Tamar Valley Sauvignon             the nose and a palate with         Cape Bernier TasmaniaVarietals &                        Blanc Semillon 2011 HHH            great length of grassy, lemony,    Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH1/2Blends                             Typical pungent varietal           mineral flavours. $23              A delightful spicy lift to the                                   characters of cut grass and        Freycinet Vineyard                 apple-like bouquet. Smooth5 TASTED                           tinned peas laced with green       Tasmania Sauvignon                 and rounded in the mouth with5 AWARDED                          acid. $27                          Blanc 2013 HHHH1/2                 a big hit of apple and pear-like                                                                      Typical sauvignon blanc            flavours and a glycerol-likeAn interesting line-up of other                                       pungency to the nose and           mouthfeel. $28floral and aromatic varietals.                                        a lovely mineral line to the“A big plus for the producers,”                                       balanced palate. Some residualnoted one judge.                                                      sugar and grassy flavours                                                                      mingling with tropical fruit. $25Bream CreekTasmania Schonburger2012 HHHH1/2Attractive and unusual aromasreminiscent of green peasand broad beans. Someresidual sugar on the palatewith flavours of lychees andcut grass and a glycerol-liketexture. $26judges        David Johnstone               Nick Glaetzer                                                      James Welsh        Wine merchant                 Winemaker/Owner of                                                 Sommelier and Co-owner of black        and national show             Glaetzer/Dixon Family                                              cow and Stillwater restaurant        judge. Has judged in          Winemakers. Formerly                                               in Launceston. Previously        Melbourne, Hobart,            Winemaker at Frogmore                                              worked in Cellar Door at Bay of        Perth & Hong Kong             Creek. Judge at Hobart                                             Fires winery. Also attended the        and is chairman of the        Wine Show, International                                           Sommeliers Australia Education        Tasmanian Derwent             Cool Climate Show, and                                             Programme. Associate judge at        Valley wine show.             Associate Judge at the                                             the Tasmanian wine show and                                      Tasmanian wine show.                                               has judged at the local.112 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
Your First Click                       ~ for all the ~Best Wines from Tasmania        www.tasmanianwinecentre.com.au
TA SMAN IAPandora’s Box 88 Keys                White Rock Vineyards                Cape Bernier                        Pinot NoirTasmania Pinot Gris                  Tasmania Pinot Gris                 Tasmania Chardonnay2013 HHHH                            2012 HHH                            2011 HHHH1/2                        26 TASTEDInteresting pear and brown           Good texture and weight here        Smells of white peaches             26 AWARDEDsugar nose with some gentle,         with a mix of tropical and ripe     layered with some oak andsweet and spicy flavours on          green apples characters. $24        floral nuances. Palate offers a     “Super class!” declared onea juicy palate with light spritz                                         generous volume of varietal         judge. Great consistency ofcharacters. $21.99                   Eddystone Point Tasmania            fruit flavours with a nice nutty    quality wines showing fantasticRiverdale Estate Coal                Pinot Gris 2012 HHH                 character. $36                      structure. “Some of theseRiver Valley Pinot Gris              A simple sweet pungent style.                                           wines would challenge French2013 HHHH                            Some mineral characters laced       Relbia Estate Tasmania              Premium Crus,” thought another.Lemon sherbet fragrances lift        with lemon pith and hay-like        Chardonnay 2013 HHHH                The 2011 and older wines did notoff the nose with some very          notes. $25.99                       Hints of tropical notes to the      have the complexity and richness‘more-ish’ floral and pineapple                                          citrussy nose with a generosity     of the 2012s.flavours supported by a juicy        Relbia Estate Tasmania              of bright simple tropical fruit     Resolution Vineyardacid backbone. $25.99                Pinot Grigio 2011 HHH               flavours with some residual         Tasmania Pinot NoirJosef Chromy Tasmania                A tropical pungency to the nose     sugar sweetness. $NA                2012 HHHHHPinot Gris 2013 HHH1/2               with a simple, slightly grassy                                          A fabulous richness of violets,A subtleness of pears and            fruit, palate. $NA                  Nocton Vineyard                     forest floor and eucalypt-likeapples on the nose leading to a                                          Tasmania Chardonnay                 fragrances. The palate is lovelylively and well-balanced palate      Chardonnay                          2013 HHHH                           and long and elegant tasting ofthat has weight and length. $26                                          A distinctive peaches and           strawberries and cream withPipers Brook Estate                  8 TASTED                            cream style of chardonnay           some floral notes. $NATasmania Pinot Gris                  8 AWARDED                           with a slightly oily mouthfeel2013 HHH1/2                                                              and a reasonable amount of          Home Hill Kelly’sAn interesting style, quite a        Consistently high quality here      acidity. $23                        Reserve Tasmania Pinothigh level of acid with tropical/    well suited to Tasmania. A                                              Noir 2012 HHHHHfloral varietal fruit and just a     good mix of lovely unoaked,         Josef Chromy Tasmania               A pretty wine with a dark densefaint hint of wood. $34              fresh, elegant styles to the        Chardonnay 2013 HHHH                integration of plum and oakBream Creek Tasmania                 matured oak and malo-lactic         A bright fresh style with a         aromas and nicely structuredPinot Grigio 2013 HHH                structured wines.                   mélange of tropical fruit,          palate with powerful varietalA simple sweet style with a                                              melons and citrus and just          fruit and underscored by somecombination of lemon, pear and       Freycinet Vineyard                  a faint hint of oak and some        quite drying tannins. $50spicy apple characters. $26          Tasmania Chardonnay                 warming alcohol. $34Tamar Ridge Tasmania                 2012 HHHHHPinot Gris 2013 HHH                  A beautifully soft and creamy       Pepik TasmaniaA delicate bouquet of pears          style of chardonnay with            Chardonnay 2012 HHHHwith slight floral notes. Palate is  lively aromas and lovely long       A very pretty wine with delicatequite sweet but has the acid to      lingering flavours of nectarines    citrus and pome fruit-likebalance. $26                         and peaches layered with great      characters edged with hints ofMoorilla Muse Tasmania               oak and malo characters. $35        honey dew melon and crunchyPinot Gris 2013 HHH                                                      acidity. $23Varietal aromas of lemons and        Moorilla Muse Tasmaniapears. Nice palate weight with       Chardonnay 2012                     Abel’s Tempest Tasmaniagrassy/pear-like flavours. $30       HHHH1/2                             Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2                                     Sweet oak fragrances layered        Stonefruit aromas fill the                                     with touches of tropical fruit      buttery nose and the sweet                                     and floral notes. Palate is a nice  fruit palate has a nice toastiness                                     balance of oak, caramel and         to it from the oak. $24.99                                     mealy-like characters. Some                                     alcohol warmth. $40                 RosÉ                                                                         1 TASTED                                                                         1 AWARDED     star ratings                                                   One good example showing            Devil’s Corner Tasmania                                                                         how well pinot works with this.     Pinot Noir 2013 HHHH1/2Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of                         Unfortunately there’s not a lot     Musky red cherry bouquetexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.                        to go around.                       with violet-like nuances andAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry                                                                a long lingering strawberryprofessionals and are compared in peer                                   Cape Bernier                        and cream varietal fruit palateclasses by three judges.                                                 Tasmania Pinot Noir Rosé            with balancing oak and boldCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,                                   2012 HHHH                           tannins. $19a major mail-order business.                                             An attractive creamy pinot noseCD Cellar door price.                                                    smelling of red cherries andCDO Cellar door only.                                                    strawberries. The palate offersSO Sold out.                                                             a mouthful of sweet rhubarb$N/A Price not available at time of printing.                            flavours. $28 Contact information pg 152.        RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au114 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
regional tastingHolm Oak Tasmania Pinot            Freycinet Vineyard                 Abel’s Tempest Tasmania            Other RedNoir 2012 HHHH1/2                  Tasmania Pinot Noir                Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2             Varietals &Dark brooding bouquet of           2012 HHHH1/2                       A pleasant floral bouquet          Blendsberries and violets. Good          Nose of dark cherries with a       with hints of blackcurrants.weight, length and generosity      hint of herbs and leafy greens.    The palate is simple               3 TASTEDof sweet varietal fruit            Simple but attractive green        with forest floor-like fruit       3 AWARDEDcharacters with lovely long        fruit palate developing some       characters. $31.99chocolaty tannins. $32             complexity. Just needs more        Iron Pot Bay Wooded                A small but very interestingJosef Chromy Tasmania              time in the cellar. $58            Tasmania Pinot Noir                group. “These showed fruit andPinot Noir 2012 HHHH1/2            Pressing Matters Coal              2010 HHH1/2                        length with soft tannins. GreatA big, slightly dry, style of      River Valley Pinot Noir            A juicy mid-weight style that’s    to see winemakers trying newpinot noir sporting dark cherry    2011 HHHH1/2                       dark with fruit, shows some        varieties,” said one judge.and cedary oak aromas with         Very attractive lifted varietal    mintiness and has soft tanninssome very generous sweet           aromas and lingering flavours      with fresh acidity. $32            Nocton Vineyardfruit flavours and nice tannic     of dark cherries, spicy oak,       Resolution Vineyard                Tasmania Merlotbackbone. $34                      floral nuances and some raisin-    Tasmania Pinot Noir                2013 HHHH1/2Home Hill Tasmania Pinot           like complexity. Ripe tannins      2013 HHH                           A very attractive savoury styleNoir 2012 HHHH1/2                  and crunchy acidity. $49           Musky floral nose with a           of merlot. Slightly simple palateA soft silky smooth style          Bream Creek Tasmania               crunchy palate showing a           with a soft but firm structure,with dark dense leafy fruit        Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH1/2            bright generosity of raspberry     plenty of good jubey plumcharacters, cedary oak, nice       Soft and sweet pinot style         flavours. $NA                      fruit and a very good tanninspiciness and all wrapped up in    with a lovely generosity of        Pepik Tasmania Pinot               structure. $27some drying wood tannins. $36      red cherry and violet-like fruit   Noir 2012 HHHSpring Vale Freycinet              characters with floral touches.    A leafy and slightly minty nose    White Rock VineyardCoast Pinot Noir                   Still quite closed needs a little  and a soft, simple rhubarb palate  Dawn Red Tasmania2012 HHHH1/2                       more time to shine. $35            with a slight oakiness. $23        Dornfelder 2013 HHHHA big fruit bomb of a pinot        Relbia Estate Tasmania             Tamar Ridge Tasmania               Subtle cherry and violet aromaswith pretty floral fragrances,     Pinot Noir 2013 HHHH               Pinot Noir 2012 HHH                with gentle spices. Interestingshowing dark fruit elements.       Smells like the forest floor       A simple ‘gentle’ style with       palate, firm in the mouth withSoft and simple in the mouth       laced with dark berries. Soft      sweet lean fruit, powdery          lingering raisined fruit-likewith an almost cola-like flavour   and elegant in the mouth with      tannins and good level of          characters. $36profile. $40                       delicate strawberry flavours.      acid. $30Riverdale Centaurus Coal           Good tannic spine. $NA             Heemskerk Coal                     Three Willows VineyardRiver Valley Pinot Noir            White Rock Vineyard                River Valley Pinot Noir            Tasmania Baco Noir2012 HHHH1/2                       Tasmania Pinot Noir                2012 HHH                           2012 HHH1/2Leafy dark fruit bouquet laced     2013 HHHH                          Soft, round and chocolaty          Leafy black fruit fragranceswith blackcurrant elements         Subdued aromas; a touch            style of pinot with hints of       and nice palate weight withand subtle vanillin notes. A       musky and spicy. Soft and          blackcurrants and ripe             some licorice-like flavours andbig silky smooth palate full of    well-rounded in the mouth with     tannins. $59.99                    greenish tannins. $38cherry fruit flavours. Good oak    cherry-like fruit, stalky notes    Eddystone Point Tasmaniaintegration. $47.99                and good tannins. $28              Pinot Noir 2011 HHHMoorilla Muse Tasmania             Laurel Bank Tasmania               A simple wine; some stalkyPinot Noir 2012 HHHH1/2            Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH               elements mixing with darkSweet, soft and nicely rounded     A fuller style smelling of dark    cherries and spice and nicestyle brimming over with sweet     fruits edged with violet notes.    acidity. $29.99cherries and berries, some         A strawberry-like palate with      Pipers Brook Estateviolet notes and hints of spices.  leathery complexity and fresh      Tasmania Pinot NoirGood oak backbone. $48             acidity. $33                       2011 HHHPressing Matters Coal              Cape Bernier Tasmania              A good chocolaty/sweetRiver Valley Pinot Noir            Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH               dark fruit pinot. Ripe tannin2012 HHHH1/2                       Juicy and generous wine with       spine and a slight greenishA very attractive bright jammy     plenty of dark confectionery       finish. $42fruit bouquet followed by a very   sweet fruit nicely integratedpleasant, and slightly sweet,      with the oak and showing afruit palate showing a good        good level of tannins. $36level of oak to match. $49         Yellow Point Bloody 11th                                   D’Entrecasteaux Channel                                   Pinot Noir 2013 HHH1/2                                   Red berry aromas on the nose                                   and an elegant palate with                                   forest floor fruit complexity and                                   soft old oak. $NA                                                                      July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E   115
travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINSOUTh island (Nelson & Canterbury)HIT THE TRAIL                                  NEW BEGINNING                                    BACK ON THE RAILSTHE SELWYN Food and Wine Trail is              RYDGES LATIMER Hotel in Latimer Square           CHRISTCHURCH’S iconic trams are backa collection of artisan wine and food          is the first hotel to be built in Christchurch   on their tracks after nearly a three-yearproducers in Canterbury’s beautiful Selwyn     since the 2011 earthquakes.                      absence, marking another significantdistrict, just on the fringes of Christchurch                                                   milestone in the recovery of Christchurchand South Canterbury.                            The hotel has 138 guest rooms and              following the 2011 earthquake. The 2.6km                                               extensive banquet facilities with a capacity     tram tracks that loop through the city  Experiences range from wine tastings         to cater for up to 360 people, making it the     were damaged and the trams taken out ofwith the growers to sampling fresh             largest hotel function space in Christchurch.    service. Major repairs to the tracks haveregional produce, along with destination       The hotel also has a grill restaurant and        now been completed. While in storagecafes and restaurants serving local food       Bloody Marys bar. Located in the centre of       the trams were carefully maintained. Eachand fine wine, and accommodation               Christchurch and a five-minute walk from         tram has been fitted with new screensproviders like Grasmere Lodge and              popular New Regent St, Rydges Latimer            and video content to show visitorsWagon Stays Luxury Escape. Members             Christchurch boasts high-speed internet          what Christchurch looked like beforeof the trail include food producers,           and wi-fi, and free parking. Rooms feature       the quake, in addition to detailed localrestaurants, cafes, wineries and               a flat-screen satellite TV and hotel facilities  commentary on the city.accommodation providers, as well as            include a fitness centre, sauna and thefarmers’ markets. Wineries include Lone        convenience of a 24-hour front desk.               Tim Hunter, chief executive ofGoat, Lake Forsyth Vineyard, Langdale          There is a dry cleaning service and guest        Christchurch and Canterbury Tourism,Vineyard and Restaurant, Bentwood,             laundry on site. All rooms are airconditioned    said the trams will bring additional visitorsMelton Estate and Braided River, and           and all have a mini-bar, work desk and a         and street activity into the heart of themarkets include Darfield Farmers’              direct dial telephone. Rydges Latimer is a       city. “The Christchurch tram is an iconicMarket, Rolleston Envirotown Market and        10-minute walk from the ReSTART Mall and         symbol of the city and their re-appearanceLincoln Farmers’ and Craft Market.             a pleasant stroll from Christchurch Casino.      in central Christchurch marks a significant                                               Rydges Latimer Hotel, 30 Latimer Squ,            step in the city’s recovery,” he says. “This  The trail was winner of the 2014 Great Wine  Christchurch Central; phone +64 3 379 6760.      is something we should all celebrate.”Capitals, best of wine tourism service award.  www.rydges.com.                                  Since the earthquake the trams haveSee www.selwynfoodandwinetrail.co.nz.                                                           been stored temporarily at the Ferrymead                                                                                                Heritage Park.                                                                                                  Christchurch is the urban hub of the                                                                                                Canterbury region. The city is rapidly                                                                                                changing with new shops, bars                                                                                                and creative spaces popping up all                                                                                                over the place. For more information                                                                                                about what to see and do visit                                                                                                www.christchurchnz.com.116 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
travelbriefsNAME CHANGE                                      WHEN MONEY’S NO OBJECT                           SADDLE UPFOR MANY years the iconic stone building         IF MONEY is no object, or you have a special     PURE Trails Cycle Tours offers an45 minutes north of Christchurch, set among      occasion to mark with up to 10 people, then      energetic but enjoyable way to explorethe vineyards and known as Mud House             one of the South Island’s most iconic getaways   the stunning Nelson Tasman region, withWinery and Cafe has been a de rigueur            has an offer you might like to consider. From    the five-day Bike The Tasman Great Tastestop for thirsty and hungry motorists. Now       May-September, Relais & Chateaux member          Trail. This easy-grade cycle tour featuresits name has changed to Waipara Hills.           Otahuna Lodge is offering for the first time a   panoramic coastal views over TasmanThe Waipara Hills brand has actually been        “Lord of the Manor” package whereby 10           Bay, Waimea Estuary and the Westernestablished in the picturesque building          guests have exclusive run of the Lodge for       Ranges, including Mount Arthur, Mountfor several years. “The Waipara Hills wine       $5995 per night, including accommodation         Owen and Mount Crusader. Cyclingmaking team is based in Waipara, the wine        in any or all of the suites and master suites.   150km of the Great Taste Trail givesis made in Waipara, it makes sense that the      Rates include pre-dinner drinks with canapes,    travellers a diverse taste of the regionname has become Waipara Hills,” says cellar      five-course nightly degustation dinner in the    and the opportunity to indulge in the localdoor and cafe manager Jenny Anderson. “It        dining room with matched New Zealand             fine foods, wines and craft beer. In theis an honour for our iconic building, which      wines and breakfast each morning.                vibrant city of Nelson and its surroundscontains so much heart and soul, to become                                                        riders can also enjoy a scenic cruisethe home of Waipara Hills.” The bistro-style       For those with larger groups, up to six        in the stunning Abel Tasman Nationalcafe is open seven days a week from 11am-        additional guests (to a maximum of 16 people)    Park. Each ride has its own guide and3pm with dishes like pork and pistachio          can be included at the additional rate of $500   if the weather conditions change orterrine, pumpkin risotto, open venison steak     per person. Otahuna is a historical homestead    you simply need a break, a supportsandwich and a range of platters.                formerly belonging to the distinguished          vehicle is always available as back up.                                                 Rhodes family. It’s now a luxury hotel, elegant  www.puretrailsnewzealand.co.nz.  Despite the name change there is no            and very comfortable, and known for itschange in the management or staff and tours      excellent food and wine.                         Above: Otahuna Lodge.of the Waipara Hills winery are held twice                                                        Opposite pagedaily at 11am and 3pm.                             Otahuna Lodge, 224 Rhodes Rd,                  Left: Selwyn Grasmere Lodge.                                                 Christchurch; phone +64 3-329 6333. www.         Right: Tim Hunter with a Christchurch tram.  Waipara Hills, 780 Glasnevin Rd, State         otahuna.co.nz.Highway 1, Waipara, North Canterbury;phone +64 3 314 6900.CHRISTCHURCH FAVOURITETHE GEORGE Hotel, a long-timeChristchurch favourite, was recognisedby international magazine Travel+Leisureas the “top city hotel” in New Zealandfor 2013. It also came in second to theLangham Melbourne in the overall categoryof Australia, New Zealand and the SouthPacific. Located in the heart of Christchurchoverlooking the picturesque Hagley Parkand River Avon, The George is just stepsfrom the cultural precinct and key attractions,and offers low-key boutique luxury. There aretwo award-winning restaurants, 50 Bistroand Pescatore.  The George, a member of Small LuxuryHotels of the World, is at 50 Park Tce,Christchurch; phone +64 3 379 4560.www.thegeorge.com.                                                                                                  July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E  117
80 TASTED63 AWARDEDS O U T H I S L A N D Nelson & CanterburyA stimulating tasting, in which the upper South Island’s             Mt Beautiful Cheviot                Terrace Edge Liquidtwo smaller regions demonstrated their ability to produce            Hills North Canterbury              Geography Waipara Valleypunchy, ripe, vibrant sauvignon blancs; vivacious rieslings,         Sauvignon Blanc                     Riesling 2012 HHHHdry and sweet; convincing, Alsace-style pinot gris; and              2013 HHH                            Light-bodied and still youthful,stylish, cool-climate chardonnays. The pinot noirs were              Full-bodied, non-herbaceous         with citrusy, appley, limeyalso rewarding, ranging from delicious, drink-young styles           style, with ripe, tropical fruit    flavours, a distinct splashto more complex, savoury, ageworthy models.                          flavours threaded with lively       of sweetness and excellent                                                                     acidity and good depth. $19 (A,     delicacy, depth and harmony.Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail.                     UK, US)                             $19.50 (A)Wines available in export markets are shown as                                                           Pegasus Bay Riesling(A) Australia, (UK) and (US).                                        RIESLING                            2011 HHH1/2                                                                                                         Pale yellow, with a honeyedSAUVIGNON                        Greenhough Nelson                   16 TASTED                           bouquet. Fleshy, distinctlyBLANC                            Sauvignon Blanc                     13 AWARDED                          medium style from Waipara,                                 2013 HHHH                           A strong class, with styles         with generous, ripe, peachy10 TASTED                        Tangy, lively wine with good        ranging from full-bodied            flavours. Drinking well now.8 AWARDED                        intensity. Stylish, with an array   and dry, to light, sweet and        $29 (A, UK, US)                                 of fruit flavours and a crisp, dry  vivacious. The judges found         Terrace Edge ClassicA strong class in which both     finish. $22                         several bargain-priced wines        Waipara Valley Rieslingregions showed their ability to  Pegasus Bay Sauvignon               from Nelson and Canterbury.         2012 HHH1/2produce vibrant, flavour-packed  Blanc Semillon                                                          Medium-dry style, with lemon/sauvignon blancs, generally at   2012 HHHH                           Greenhough Apple                    lime flavours, finely balancedthe tropical fruit, rather than  Fresh and lively, with crisp,       Valley Nelson Riesling              and lingering. Drinking wellpungently herbaceous, end of     youthful melon/lime flavours,       2013 HHHHH                          now; no rush. $19.50 (A)the ripeness spectrum.           showing excellent ripeness and      Pale, Mosel-like wine, with         Main Divide Waipara Valley                                 harmony. Tightly structured,        lovely lightness, delicacy and      Riesling 2012 HHH1/2Omihi Hills Waipara              ageworthy wine, with a              depth. Fresh, appley, tangy,        Slightly honeyed bouquet.Selection Sauvignon              persistent finish. $29 (A, UK, US)  gently sweet flavours, with         Full-flavoured, with lemony,Blanc 2013 HHHH1/2               Renato Nelson Sauvignon             a hint of “wet stone”, and an       peachy notes, a distinct hint ofFleshy, sturdy wine, with        Blanc 2013 HHHH                     inviting, floral bouquet. $22       botrytis and gentle sweetness.a strong surge of ripe,          Fresh, slightly grassy aromas       Sherwood Estate Stoney              (From Pegasus Bay.) $19.95tropical fruit flavours, gently  lead into an intensely varietal,    Range Waipara Valley                (A, UK, US)seasoned with oak and a dry,     vibrant wine, with zesty melon,     Riesling 2013 HHHH                  Waipara Hills Equinoxwell-rounded, lasting finish.    lime and green capsicum             Distinctly medium style, with       Waipara Valley Riesling(Fermented and matured           flavours that linger well. $18      tangy acidity, very good depth      2013 HHH1/2in seasoned French oak           Aronui Nelson Sauvignon             of vibrant, citrusy flavours and a  Lemon-scented, with strong,barriques.) Fine value. $19.90   Blanc 2013 HHH                      lengthy finish. (Also sold under    citrusy flavours. Generous and                                 Aromatic, freshly herbaceous        the Sherwood Estate Stratum         finely textured, with a hint ofBrightwater Vineyards            bouquet. Lively, with an            brand.) Wonderful value.            honey. $35Nelson Sauvignon Blanc           easy-drinking balance and           $14.95 (A, UK, US)                  Woollaston Mahana2013 HHHH                        good depth of ripe melon/lime                                           Nelson RieslingFleshy and sweet-fruited, with   flavours. $22                                                           2013 HHH1/2ripe, tropical fruit flavours,   Brightwater Vineyards                                                   Youthful, dry wine, fermentedbalanced acidity and good        Lord Rutherford                                                         in old oak. Lively, crisp, lemon/texture. Elegant, tightly        Nelson Sauvignon Blanc                                                  lime flavours, finely balancedstructured wine, enjoyed by all  2013 HHH                                                                and lingering. Well worthjudges. $20 (A, US)              Crisp, with ripe, tropical fruit                                        cellaring. Certified organic. $32                                 flavours that linger well and                                           Woollaston Nelson                                 mouth-watering acidity. Still                                           Riesling 2013 HHH1/2                                 very youthful. $25                                                      Finely balanced, medium-dry                                                                                                         style, with strong, citrusy, appley                                                                                                         flavours. Intensely varietal, with                                                                                                         good harmony. $25118 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
regional tastingGeorges Road Block               PINOT GRIS                        Brightwater Gravels                   Georges Road SelectionThree Waipara Riesling                                             Nelson Pinot Gris                     Waipara Pinot Gris2013 HHH                         12 TASTED                         2013 HHHH                             2013 HHH1/2Ripely scented, fleshy,          10 AWARDED                        Youthful, lively and elegant, with    Fleshy, with generous pear andmedium-dry style, with ripe,                                       pear, peach and spice flavours,       lychee flavours, showing goodcitrusy flavours showing good    A strong line-up in which the     slightly sweet and finely             varietal character, a subtle hint ofdelicacy and depth, and an       top wines from both regions       balanced. Skilfully crafted wine,     oak and a dryish finish. $25 (A)easy-drinking balance. $24 (A)   veered mostly towards the         enjoyed by all judges. $24 (A)        Milcrest Estate MoutereMud House Estate The             classic, weighty, Alsace model,   Sherwood Estate                       Pinot Gris 2013 HHHMound Waipara Valley             rather than the lighter, crisper  Waipara Valley Pinot Gris             Very easy-drinking, medium-dryRiesling 2013 HHH                grigio style.                     2013 HHHH                             style, with balanced acidity, aFull-bodied, dryish style with                                     Fragrant, spicy bouquet.              touch of oak/lees complexityappley, citrusy flavours, crisp  Terrace Edge Waipara              Mouthfilling, with rich pear, lychee  and good depth of pear andand zesty, and good depth. $23   Valley Pinot Gris 2013            and spice flavours, showing           lychee flavours. $25 (A)(A, UK, US)                      HHHH1/2                           very good varietal character and      Mud House Estate TheMud House Waipara                Fleshy, Alsace-style pinot gris,  length. Priced sharply. $19 (A)       Homeblock VineyardValley Riesling 2013 HHH         with rich stonefruit flavours     Waipara Hills Waipara                 Waipara Valley Pinot GrisLively, very youthful wine in a  and a hint of oak (fermented in   Valley Pinot Gris                     2013 HHHmedium-dry style, with crisp,    old barrels). Weighty, creamy-    2013 HHHH                             Strongly flavoured, with freshappley, lemony flavours and      textured and generous. $23 (A)    Instantly attractive, with a          pear and citrus fruit characters,some flinty notes. $19 (A, UK)                                     slightly oily texture and rich,       lively acidity and a zesty, dryishWaipara Hills Waipara            Aronui Nelson Pinot Gris          pure, peachy and spicy flavours.      finish. $23 (A, UK, US)Valley Riesling 2013 HHH         2013 HHHH                         Finely balanced and youthful.         Renato Nelson Pinot GrisAttractive, finely balanced      Instantly appealing, with         $22 (A, UK)                           2012 HHHwine, with lemon and pear-like   fresh acidity, vibrant pear and   Waipara Valley Equinox                Lemon-scented, with fresh,flavours and a dryish, lengthy   lychee flavours, showing good     Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH                  lively, citrusy flavours, crisp andfinish. $22 (A, UK)              concentration, and a dryish       Fleshy, with pear, spice and          dry. Two judges described it as                                 finish. $22                       stonefruit flavours, showing          a good “grigio” style. $20                                                                   excellent balance and depth,                                                                   and some savoury, barrel-                                                                   ferment complexity. Still very                                                                   youthful. $35                                                                   July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E      119
SOUTH ISLANDGEWURZTRAMINER                      Brightwater Vineyards                 Renato Nelson                        ROSÉ                                    Nelson Chardonnay                     Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/24 TASTED                            2012 HHHHH                            Fleshy and sweet-fruited,            2 TASTED3 AWARDED                           Fresh, citrusy, mealy and nutty,      with ripe, peach and nectarine       1 AWARDED                                    with excellent varietal character     flavours, and finely integratedA small but rewarding class,        and depth, oak complexity             oak (French, 16 per cent new).       Middle Earth Nelson Roséwith Waipara offering two           (fermented in French oak              Skilfully made, with a touch of      2013 HHHHexamples of powerful, well-         barrels, 20 per cent new) and a       complexity. $24                      Bright, light red hue. Fleshy,spiced gewurztraminer - one         finely textured, dry, long finish.    Sherwood Estate                      with vibrant berry and spicedry, the other medium.              Top value. $25                        Waipara Valley                       flavours, and a smooth, dry                                    Aronui Nelson                         Chardonnay 2012 HHH                  finish. Fragrant, with goodOmihi Hills Waipara                 Chardonnay 2013 HHHH                  Mouthfilling, citrusy, fruit-driven  texture and balance. Praised bySelection Gewurztraminer            Tight, elegant style, lemon-          style, with a subtle seasoning       one judge as “pretty”. $242013 HHHH                           scented. Fruit-driven, with a         of oak and good length. Subtle,Exotically perfumed. Powerful,      restrained oak influence, a           crisp wine with a touch of           OTHER REDSfleshy wine, with concentrated,     touch of complexity and a crisp,      complexity. $25 (A, UK, US)ripe, stonefruit and spice          lively, lingering finish. $25         Tresillian Canterbury                6 TASTEDflavours, and a dry finish. “Needs  Brightwater Vineyards                 Chardonnay 2012 HHH                  4 AWARDEDfood,” noted one judge. $29         Lord Rutherford                       Fleshy, with plenty of citrusy,                                    Barrique Nelson                       slightly toasty flavour, a creamy    Pegasus Bay WaiparaPegasus Bay Waipara                 Chardonnay 2012 HHHH                  mid-palate and some barrel-          Valley Merlot CabernetValley Gewurztraminer               Youthful, with mouthfilling           ferment complexity. $26              2011 HHH1/22011 HHHH                           body and strong, fresh, citrusy,                                           Full-coloured, with veryFleshy, with concentrated,          peachy flavours, seasoned with        OTHER WHITES                         good depth of plum/spiceslightly sweet flavours in          toasty oak (French, 25 per cent                                            flavours and nutty oak addingan intensely varietal style,        new). Powerful, vibrantly fruity      2 TASTED                             complexity. $29.95honeyed, rich and rounded. One      wine, still unfolding. $40            1 AWARDED                            Renato Nelson Merlotjudge scored it five stars. $28     Greenhough Hope                                                            2012 HHH                                    Vineyard Nelson                       Greenhough Hope                      Ruby hued, vibrantly fruityAronui Nelson                       Chardonnay 2012 HHHH                  Vineyard Nelson Pinot                red, with fresh acidity, gentleGewurztraminer                      Fleshy, with generous, ripe,          Blanc 2012 HHHH                      tannins and good depth2013 HHH1/2                         stonefruit flavours, mealy,           Lemon-scented, mouthfilling          of plummy, slightly herbalPale, fleshy, mouthfilling wine,    long and building good                and dry, in a complex style          flavours. $24with lychee, pear and spice         complexity. One judge scored          with citrusy, appley and             Milcrest Estate Nelsonflavours, showing clear cut         it five stars. $32                    spicy flavours, youthful and         Dolcetto 2013 HHHvarietal characters, a slightly     Waipara Hills Equinox                 generous. Enjoyed by all             Deeply coloured, with livelyoily texture and a gently floral    Chardonnay 2013 HHHH                  judges. $32                          red berry and spice flavours,bouquet. $22                        Floral, with a rich, lively palate -                                       showing very good depth,                                    ripe, peachy, citrusy and slightly    SWEET WHITES                         fresh acidity and drink-youngCHARDONNAY                          creamy. Weighty, skilfully                                                 charm. $32 (A)                                    made, barrel-fermented style,         1 TASTED                             Terrace Edge Waipara12 TASTED                           still very youthful, with a lasting   1 AWARDED                            Valley Syrah 2012 HHH9 AWARDED                           finish. $35                                                                Full-coloured, with a herbal                                    Middle Earth Nelson                   Greenhough Ambrosia                  thread that contributes to aA strong line-up in which           Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2                Nelson Gewurztraminer                distinctly cool-climate feel, butthe Nelson region made its          Attractive, finely balanced           2012 (375ml) HHHHH                   also some generosity. $25 (A)presence felt with elegant,         wine, with ripe, stonefruit           Perfumed, richly honeyedcool-climate wines, some of         and grapefruit flavours, and          bouquet. Lush palate, withwhich offer top value.              a slightly creamy texture.            highly concentrated, sweet                                    Easy-drinking, with very good         flavours of peaches, spices                                    depth. $29                            and honey in a lovely, botrytis-                                                                          enriched style, offering                                                                          delicious current drinking. $26judges                                                                    Cameron Douglas                      Liz Wheadon                                                                          A senior lecturer at                 Liz joined Glengarry                                 Michael Cooper                           AUT University, where                Wines - which has 17                                 Winestate’s New Zealand                  he heads the wine and                retail stores in Auckland                                 editor is the author of the              beverage program,                    and Wellington - in                                 internationally acclaimed Wine           Cameron judges                       1994. She is now the                                 Atlas of New Zealand and the             frequently on wine                   company’s general                                 annual Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s          panels and is the only               manager and often                                 Guide to New Zealand Wines.              New Zealander to hold                judges on magazine and                                 In the 2004 New Year Honours,            the US-based Master                  competition panels.                                 Michael was appointed an                 Sommelier Diploma.                                 Officer of the New Zealand                                 Order of Merit for services to                                 wine writing.120 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
regional tastingPINOT NOIR                         Omihi Hills Omihi Reserve                                   Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/215 TASTED                          Powerful, almost “gutsy” style,13 AWARDED                         with deep colour, strong plum,                                   spice and herb flavours, and firmA strong class, in which both      tannins. “Rich and brooding,”regions showed the ability         enthused one judge. $39to produce fresh, fruit-driven     Omihi Hills The Trianglestyles with drink-young charm,     Waipara Valley Pinot Noirtogether with more savoury,        2012 HHH1/2complex, ageworthy reds.           Sturdy, youthful wine, with                                   strong, ripe plum and spiceTerrace Edge Waipara               flavours, savoury and complex,Valley Pinot Noir                  and a firm backbone of tannin.2012 HHHHH                         Well worth cellaring. $45Floral, fresh, very lively and     Omihi Hills Waiparayouthful wine, finely structured,  Selection Pinot Noirwith excellent vigour and          2012 HHH1/2depth of cherry, plum and          Savoury style, with cherry, plum,spice flavours, showing good       herb and spice flavours, showingcomplexity. Enjoyed by all         very good complexity and depth.judges. $29.95 (A)                 Drink now or cellar. $29Renato Nelson Pinot Noir           Pegasus Bay Waipara2012 HHHH1/2                       Valley Pinot NoirRipely scented. Generous,          2011 HHHfinely textured red, with          Full-coloured, youthful wine,concentrated cherry, plum,         with sweet fruit characters andspice and herb fruit flavours,     generous, lively plum, cherryand a foundation of ripe, chewy    and spice flavours. Describedtannins. Great value. $24          by one judge as a “tad one-Aronui Nelson Pinot Noir           dimensional but nice”, it should2011 HHHH                          reward cellaring. $47 (A, UK, US)Full, brightly coloured red,       Waipara Hills Equinoxwith a savoury, slightly earthy    Pinot Noir 2012 HHHbouquet. Concentrated palate,      Aromatic, ruby hued wine,with strong, ripe flavours and a   medium-bodied, with cherry,lengthy, finely balanced finish.   herb and spice flavours, and aGood value. $28                    finely textured finish. $35Brightwater Vineyards              Woollaston MahanaNelson Pinot Noir                  Nelson Pinot Noir2012 HHHH                          2012 HHHSmoky, slightly earthy bouquet.    Deeply coloured, with strong,Strong, fresh plum/spice           youthful plum, olive andflavours, with good weight,        spice flavours, braced byfinely integrated oak and a        fairly firm tannins. Powerful,lengthy finish. Priced sharply.    tightly structured red, worth$25 (A)                            cellaring. $56Greenhough Hope                    Woollaston Nelson PinotVineyard Nelson Pinot              Noir 2012 HHHNoir 2011 HHHH                     Full, bright colour. Generous,Savoury, complex style, ruby       sweet-fruited and firm wine,hued, with excellent flavour       still very youthful. Bold,depth. Ripely scented, with        structured style. $39power through the palate andfine-grained tannins. $40Brightwater Gravels NelsonPinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2Ruby hued and floral, withripe cherry, plum and spiceflavours, woven with freshacidity, and a smooth,harmonious finish. $26 (A)                                                                      July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E  121
MICHAEL COOPERThe bumper 2011 harvest was a mixed bag in terms                       Spy Valley Envoy                    ½of quality, but the 2011 reds are drinking well now,                   Marlborough Dry Rieslingas underlined by the top-flight examples of Hawke’s                    2013 HHHHH                          Brancott EstateBay syrah and Central Otago pinot noir in this tasting.                Fleshy, full-bodied (14 per cent    Letter Series B LateFor white-wine lovers, the tasting also unearthed an                   alc/vol), beautifully poised        Harvest Marlboroughoutstanding sauvignon blanc, riesling and viognier.                    wine, hand-picked and oak-          Sauvignon Blanc                                                                       fermented. Strong, vibrant,         2013 (375ml) HHHH1/2Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail.                       peachy, citrusy, slightly spicy     Beautifully scented, sweetWines available in export markets are shown as                         flavours, with a fine thread of     and soft, with pure, gentle,(A) Australia, (UK) and (US).                                          acidity and a fractionally off-dry  very ripe and non-herbaceous                                                                       finish. Generous, youthful          flavours, and a slightly oily                                                                  wine, already approachable,         texture. Light (9.5 per cent alc/                                                                       that carries the dry style          vol) and lovely, with excellentDomain Road                        Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay           extremely well. $31                 depth and harmony. $36Vineyard Bannockburn               Viognier 2013 HHHHH                 Zephyr Marlborough                  Church Road Hawke’s BayCentral Otago Pinot Noir           Scented, weighty wine, fleshy,      Sauvignon Blanc                     Rosé 2013 HHHH1/22011 HHHHH                         with lush stonefruit flavours,      2013 HHHHH                          Softly mouthfilling blendClassic regional style, with a     hints of spices and nuts (from      Distinctive, estate-grown           of merlot, syrah, cabernetperfumed, complex bouquet          partial barrel fermentation),       wine from Dillons Point, in the     sauvignon and malbec. Salmonof cherries, plums, herbs,         a slightly oily richness and a      lower Wairau Valley. Fleshy and     pink, with substantial bodyspices and nuts. Weighty,          creamy-smooth finish. Intensely     crisp, with excellent weight        (14.5 per cent alc/vol) andwith sweet fruit characters and    varietal, harmonious wine,          and depth of vibrant melon,         delicious depth of strawberry,strong, ripe, moderately firm      already hard to resist. $29         gooseberry and lime flavours,       spice and slight apricot flavours,flavours that build to a long,     Church Road McDonald                and slightly salty and leesy        smooth and lingering. Deliciouswell-structured finish. Delicious  Series Hawke’s Bay Syrah            notes adding complexity. One        now. A bargain at $19.95.now, but ageworthy, too. Fine      2011 HHHHH                          of the best sauvignon blancs ofvalue. $39 (A, UK)                 Deeply coloured, rich and           the vintage. $25 (A, UK)            Craggy Range Te Muna                                   supple, with vibrant,                                                   Aroha 2012 HHHH1/2                                   concentrated plum/spice                                                 Finely scented, savoury                                   flavours. Powerful and persistent,                                      red, grown at Te Muna,                                   in a highly aromatic style,                                             on the southern edge of                                   harmonious, finely textured and                                         Martinborough. Full-coloured,                                   youthful. Benchmark stuff. A top                                        with strong cherry, plum,                                   buy at $27.                                                             strawberry and spice flavours,                                                                                                           showing good complexity, and                                                                                                           very fine-grained tannins, giving                                                                                                           a seductively silky texture.                                                                                                           Best drinking 2016+. $99.95 (A,                                                                                                           UK, US)122 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
recent releasesPask Small Batch                                                      Church Road Hawke’s BayGimblett Road Wild                                                    Chardonnay 2013 HHHHFerment Chardonnay                                                    Fragrant bouquet, showing2013 HHHH1/2                                                          impressive complexity.Richly fragrant, estate-grown                                         Mouthfilling, with strong,wine from Hawke’s Bay,                                                peachy, faintly buttery flavours,fermented with indigenous                                             excellent harmony and ayeasts and matured in                                                 smooth finish. Still youthful,seasoned French oak casks. A                                          but already delicious and aclassic regional style, weighty,                                      wonderful buy at $19.95.with generous, ripe, stonefruitand nut flavours, showing         Spy Valley Marlborough              Elephant Hill Hawke’s               O:TU Blend 102excellent concentration and       Chardonnay 2013 HHHH1/2             Bay Sauvignon Blanc                 Marlborough Sauvignoncomplexity. Best drinking         Fragrant, mouthfilling and          2013 HHHH                           Blanc 2013 HHHH2015+. Fine value at $25.         vibrantly fruity, with strong       Mouthfilling, crisp, vibrantly      Ripely scented Awatere ValleyPisa Range Estate Black           peach and citrus fruit flavours,    fruity wine, estate-grown           wine, estate-grown in thePoplar Block Pinot Noir           barrel ferment complexity, and      near the coast at Te Awanga.        Dysarts Block, with tropical2012 HHHH1/2                      excellent delicacy, depth and       Tight and lively, with sweet        fruit flavours showing goodElegant, silky-textured Central   harmony. Immaculate, tightly        fruit characters and fresh,         richness. Crisp, with a finelyOtago red with a deep ruby        structured wine, still youthful     strong, tropical fruit flavours,    balanced, lingering finish. $26hue and perfumed bouquet.         and great value. $24 (A)            showing a touch of lees-ageing      Map Maker MarlboroughFull-bodied, sweet-fruited and    Staete Landt Annabel                complexity. Excellent example       Sauvignon Blancsupple, with strong cherry,       Marlborough Sauvignon               of the regional style. $22          2013 HHHHplum and nut flavours, youthful   Blanc 2013 HHHH1/2                  Hunter’s Marlborough                Estate-grown at Rapaura, thisand persistent. Best drinking     Fragrant, with ripe fruit aromas    Gewurztraminer                      mouthfilling, crisp, dry wine2016+. $54 (A, UK, US)            and a touch of oak/lees-ageing      2013 HHHH                           shows very good freshness,Soho Carter Waiheke               complexity. Weighty Wairau          Richly perfumed and                 vigour and depth. Sweet-Island Chardonnay                 Valley style, with strong, fresh,   mouthfilling, with fresh, pure      fruited, it’s a strongly varietal2013 HHHH1/2                      well-ripened nectarine and lime     lychee, pear and spice flavours,    wine, with pure tropical fruitPowerful young wine, full-        flavours, a fine thread of acidity  a hint of ginger, and an off-dry    flavours, tight, lively andbodied and sweet-fruited,         and a dry, long finish. $26 (A,     finish. Vibrantly fruity, youthful  generous, and a minerallywith concentrated, ripe peach     UK, US)                             wine, with excellent drive and      streak. Fine value. (From Staeteand melon flavours, a hint of     Staete Landt Josephine              harmony. $23 (A, UK)                Landt.) $19 (A, UK, US)grilled nuts and gentle acidity.  Marlborough Chardonnay              Map Maker Marlborough               Pask Small BatchInstantly attractive, with        2011 HHHH1/2                        Pure Chardonnay                     Gimblett Road Sur Lievibrant fruit characters, finely  Full-bodied, complex, estate-       2012 HHHH                           Chardonnay 2013 HHHHintegrated oak and excellent      grown wine, hand-harvested          Lemon-scented, fruit-driven         Elegant, slightly chablis-likedepth and potential. $38          and fermented and matured           style (barrel-fermented but         wine from Hawke’s Bay,                                  for 18 months in French oak         not barrel-aged), with citrusy,     matured in seasoned FrenchSpy Valley                        puncheons (10 per cent new).        slightly nutty and buttery          oak casks. Fresh and lemony,Echelon Marlborough               Refined, with youthful, vibrant     flavours, and good acid spine.      with youthful vigour, someMethode Traditionnelle            grapefruit and peach flavours,      Drinking well now and fine          peachy and nutty notes adding2010 HHHH1/2                      showing good richness,              value. (From Staete Landt.)         complexity, balanced acidityDistinctive, very pale straw      balanced acidity, slightly toasty   $21 (A, UK, US)                     and a long finish. Best drinkingwine, blended from hand-          notes and obvious potential.        Map Maker Marlborough               2015+. $25picked pinot noir (52 per cent)   $35 (A, UK, US)                     Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH                Quest Farm Central Otagoand chardonnay (48 per cent).                                         Scented and full-bodied, with       Pinot Gris 2013 HHHHFermented and aged for a                                          generous pear/lychee flavours,      Crisp, lively, pinot grigio style,year in old oak, bottled, and                                         showing a touch of complexity       with some gewurztraminerdisgorged after two years on      Ballasalla Central Otago            (40 per cent of the blend was       and viognier in the blend.its yeast lees. Impressively      Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH                fermented in old puncheons).        Dryish, with citrus fruit, pear,rich and complex, with deep,      Mouthfilling, ruby hued, single-    Good vigour, with a dryish,         lychee and spice flavours,peachy, nutty flavours and        vineyard red from Bendigo.          slightly creamy finish. (From       showing very good depth anda strongly yeasty, dry, long      Scented, slightly spicy bouquet,    Staete Landt.) $21 (A)              immediacy. Highly aromatic,finish. $40                       leading into a sweet-fruited,                                           very fresh and vibrant, with a                                  savoury and supple wine, with                                           long, spicy finish. $25 (A)                                  cherry, plum and spice flavours                                  showing good complexity.                                  Priced right. (From Folding Hill                                  Vineyard.) $29.95                                                                      July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E    123
MICHAEL COOPERSileni The Peak Hawke’s            Spy Valley                       Staete Landt Marlborough           Church Road Hawke’sBay Syrah 2013 HHHH                Marlborough Merlot               Viognier 2012 HHHH                 Bay Sauvignon BlancDeeply coloured, rich and          Malbec 2012 HHHH                 Distinctly cool-climate style      2013 HHH1/2smooth, with impressive            Dark, youthful blend of merlot   with fresh acidity. Mouthfilling,  Vibrantly fruity, full-bodiedfruit sweetness and strong         (86 per cent) and malbec         with rich, peachy, citrusy, spicy  wine, grown in the company’splum, spice and black pepper       (14 per cent), French oak-       flavours, oak complexity and       cool, inland vineyard atflavours. Fruit-driven style with  aged. “Full-on” style, with      a slightly buttery finish. Still   Matapiro. Fleshy, with ripe,drink-young appeal, but also the   concentrated, dark berry fruit   developing. $37 (UK)               tropical fruit flavours to thepotential to age well. $32         flavours to the fore, slightly   Stoneleigh Latitude                fore, lively acidity and verySoho Revolver                      toasty, very fresh and brambly.  Marlborough Chardonnay             good depth. $19.952012 HHHH                          Drink now or cellar. $24 (UK)    2013 HHHH                          Hunter’s MarlboroughDeeply coloured Waiheke                                             Fresh, lemony scents. Full-        Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2Island blend of merlot (61 per                                      bodied, vibrant and smooth,        Ruby hued, mouthfilling,cent), malbec (29 per cent),                                        with lively acidity and citrusy,   supple red with sweet fruitand cabernet franc (10 per                                          slightly buttery and toasty        characters and moderatelycent). Full-bodied, with strong                                     flavours, showing very good        concentrated strawberry, plumblackcurrant, plum and spice                                        delicacy and depth. $23            and spice flavours, showingflavours, hints of nuts and                                         Stoneleigh Rapaura Series          some savoury complexity. It’scoffee, good complexity and a                                       Marlborough Chardonnay             already enjoyable, but showsfirm backbone of tannin. Open                                       2013 HHHH                          some cellaring potential. $292015+. $40 (A)                                                      Mouthfilling, creamy-textured,     (A, UK, US)                                                                    single-vineyard wine, still        Monowai Crownthorpe                                   Spy Valley Single                unfolding. Rich, ripe and          Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris                                   Vineyard Area H Lower            peachy, with toasty, buttery       2013 HHH1/2                                   Wairau Marlborough               notes adding complexity. Best      Attractive, drink-young style                                   Sauvignon Blanc                  drinking mid-2015+. $28            from a cool, elevated, inland                                   2013 HHHH                                                           site. Medium to full-bodied,                                   Barrel-aged style with strong    ½                               with ripe, peachy, slightly                                   melon, lime and green                                               buttery and spicy flavours,                                   capsicum flavours, a gentle      Aurum Blanc de Blancs              gentle acidity and good                                   seasoning of nutty oak and a     NV HHH1/2                          harmony. $20 (A)                                   crisp, tangy finish. Strongly    Easy-drinking, bottle-fermented    O:TU Marlborough                                   varietal wine, starting to       Central Otago sparkling,           Sauvignon Blanc                                   develop good complexity. $24     blended from pinot gris (90        2013 HHH1/2                                                                    per cent) and pinot noir (10 per   Fresh, punchy, estate-grown     star ratings                                              cent), and disgorged after a year  Awatere Valley wine, balanced                                                                    on its yeast lees. Very fresh      for easy drinking, with veryThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of                    and lively, with citrusy, appley   good depth of tropical fruit andexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.                   flavours, slightly yeasty and      grassy flavours, and a smoothAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry                       nutty, and a smooth finish. $35    finish. $19.95professionals and are compared in peer                              Aurum Central Otago                Pask Gimblett Roadclasses by three judges.                                            Pinot Gris 2013 HHH1/2             Hawke’s Bay ChardonnayCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,                              Mouthfilling, with fresh, vibrant  2013 HHH1/2a major mail-order business.                                        pear, lychee and spice flavours,   Fruit-driven style, partly barrel-CD Cellar door price.                                               leesy notes adding a touch         aged, with fresh, ripe, citrusy,CDO Cellar door only.                                               of complexity, and satisfying      peachy flavours, very lightlySO Sold out.                                                        depth. Distinctly cool-climate     seasoned with nutty oak.$N/A Price not available at time of printing.                       style with balanced acidity and    Moderately complex, youthful, Contact information pg 152.                                       good immediacy. $26 (A)            finely balanced wine, already                                                                    Brancott Estate Special            enjoyable, with a rounded        RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).                              Reserve Marlborough                finish. $22 (UK, US)For a complete list of what we tasted                               Fume Blanc 2013 HHH1/2             Quest Farm Singleplease refer to www.winestate.com.au                                Fleshy and full-bodied, with       Vineyard Central Otago                                                                    fresh, strong, tropical fruit      Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2                                                                    flavours seasoned with nutty       Ruby hued, Cromwell Basin red                                                                    oak and a slightly buttery note.   with very satisfying depth of                                                                    Youthful, with very good vigour    plum/spice flavours, showing                                                                    and depth. Best drinking mid-      some savoury complexity and                                                                    2014+. $19.95                      good tannin backbone. Still                                                                                                       developing; open 2015+. $40 (A)124 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2014
MICHAEL COOPER                                                         recent releasesSoho White Collection             Greylands Ridge                      Nikau Point Reserve                 Walnut Block CollectablesMarlborough Pinot Noir            Central Otago Belle Rosé             Marlborough Pinot Noir              Marlborough Pinot Noir2013 HHH1/2                       2013 HHH                             2013 HHH                            2013 HHHFloral, scented bouquet.          Made from pinot noir, this pink/     Floral, fruit-driven red, fresh     Certified organic, this is a rubyMouthfilling and supple, with     pale orange rosé is peachy and       and charming. Bright ruby, with     hued, vibrantly fruity red, withripe cherry, plum and spice       slightly spicy, with lively acidity  ripe fruit characters to the fore,  plum and red berry flavours,flavours, showing a touch of      and plenty of smooth, dry            very gentle tannins and vibrant,    showing a touch of oaksavoury, nutty complexity and     flavour. $20                         berryish, slightly spicy flavours.  complexity, in a forward, easy-a fresh, finely balanced finish.  Monowai Crownthorpe                  Priced right. (From Morton          drinking style. $25 (A, UK)Delicious young. $27              Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay               Estate.) $18Tinpot Hut Hawke’s Bay            2013 HHH                             Ridgeback AlexSyrah 2012 HHH1/2                 Fruit-driven style from a cool,      Central Otago Pinot NoirFloral, full-coloured red with    elevated, inland site. Full-         2013 HHHgenerous plum, olive and black    bodied, with lively, citrusy,        A charming, drink-youngpepper flavours, showing some     peachy flavours, a hint of toasty    style, this is a single-vineyardsavoury, toasty complexity.       oak and a fresh, smooth finish.      Alexandra red. Ruby hued,Drinking well now onwards.        Enjoyable young. $20 (UK)            it is floral and full-bodied,$27 (A, UK)                       Murdoch James Blue                   with gentle tannins and fresh                                  Rock Martinborough Pinot             cherry, plum and spice flavours,                               Noir 2012 HHH                        showing a touch of complexity.                                  Slightly earthy wine, with           (From Greylands Ridge.) $25Greylands Ridge Central           lightish colour, showing a hint      Tinpot Hut MarlboroughOtago Blanc de Noir               of development. Mouthfilling         Pinot Noir 2012 HHH2013 HHH                          and smooth, with cherry, herb        Ruby hued, smooth redTangy, lively white wine          and spice flavours, some             with good depth of fresh,made from pinot noir and          savoury complexity and decent        vibrant, plummy flavours, apartly oak-aged. Full-bodied      depth. Drink now-2015. $50           hint of herbs and moderateand fresh, with satisfying                                             complexity. Well balanced fordepth of peachy, slightly spicy                                        current drinking. $25 (A, UK)flavours, a sliver of sweetness,appetising acidity and a touchof complexity. $20                                                                       July/August 2014 W I N E S TAT E    125
THE WOLF BLASS FOUNDATION                        Established 1994                                     PROUDLY SUPPORTING                                    • Australian Wine Education,                                      • Viticultural, Oenological                                     Research & Development,                                          • Wine & Health,                                   • Global Wine Industry Profile                                                                   Wolf was awarded on 21 May, 2014, an honorary                                                              degree of Doctor of the University of South Australia, in                                                              recognition of his distinguished service to the community.              PHONE +61 8 8232 5322 | [email protected]
insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDJuly/August 2014 Issue 130in this issueORGANIC WINESNEW RELEASESTOP 40Best Wine Buys under $20Meet Red Knot’s   big brother. Davey Brothers Shiraz 2012          McLaren Vale          5 Stars         Winestate Magazine        McLaren Vale Tasting                                                                                                                                                                                                        The Wine & spirit Insider is a                                                                                                                                                                                                       Promotional guide from the                                                                                                                                                                                                     liquor trade to the consumer.                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Winestate Publishing                                                                                                                                                                                                                  ABN 56 088 226 411
ORGANIC WINES96 TASTED79 AWARDEDORGANIC WINESsponsored by NASAAOur first ever designated/accredited organic wine tasting sponsored by               Krinklewood                  KrinklewoodNASAA and it did not disappoint! With a strike rate higher than many                 Biodynamic                   Biodynamicof our other tastings, we were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the            Vineyard Broke               Vineyard Brokewines offered. Ten years ago we would have seen cloudy, oxidised                     Fordwich Semillon            Fordwichand volatile wines, but clearly there has been a great leap forward with             2013 HHH                     Chardonnay 2013professional wine companies taking up the case. We will see a lot more               Subtle apricot/cut           HHHH1/2of this in the future and with this level of quality we look forward to it.          hay bouquet; fresh           The nose is nutty and                                                                                     juicy varietal palate.       complex with someSparkling                   Salena Estate               Temple Bruer                 It needs more time to        citrus evident. Smooth                            Ink Series                  Langhorne Creek              develop. $22                 and flavoursome in2 TASTED                    SA Riverland                Chenin Blanc                                              the mouth with fresh2 AWARDED                   Vermentino                  2013 HHHH1/2                 Chardonnay                   varietal fruit, some oak                            2012 HHHH1/2                Nose of stonefruits,                                      toastiness and good acidA good, solid drinking      Attractive lifted tropical  passionfruit and subtle      9 TASTED                     line to carry it all. $28couple of wines.            fruit aromas with nice      honeysuckle. Soft and        6 AWARDED                    Lark Hill Biodynamic                            nuttiness developing.       round with excellent         A very strong class!         Wine CanberraTemple Bruer                Smooth and flavoursome      length of stonefruit-like    Chardonnay has great         District ChardonnayLanghorne Creek             in the mouth with more      varietal flavours. $18       versatility across regions.  2013 HHHH1/2Sparkling Red               lingering nuttiness and     Whistling Kite               The best showed fruit        \"A ripper,\" enthusedNV HHHH                     good line of acidity. $20   Biodynamic SA                intensity and balance.       one judge. Lovely floralAttractive aged oak nose    Stefano Lubiana             Riverland Petit              \"Every wine here was         fragrances on the noseand a brooding plum         Tasmania Sauvignon          Manseng 2011 HHHH            unique and different,\" said  and a very commandingpalate with a fine bead     Blanc 2013 HHHH1/2          Fragrant floral lime-like    one judge. \"There is less    palate full of perfumedthat enhances the lift      A soft easy to drink        nose leading to a zippy      generic typicity in this     stonefruit flavours withof cherry and chocolate     varietal smelling of        crisp, citrussy palate       group than normal.\"          solid backbone. $40characters. $18             snow peas, capsicum         layered with attractive                                   Jacob's Creek Earth                            and passionfruit. The       perfumed characters. $25     Stefano Lubiana              Vine Grape SouthTemple Bruer Pure           palate is fresh and clean   Lark Hill Biodynamic         Primavera Tasmania           Eastern AustraliaWhite Langhorne             and very citrussy with      Wine Canberra                Chardonnay                   ChardonnayCreek Sparkling             a mineral line running      District Eliza               2013 HHHHH                   2012 HHHHNV HHH                      through it. $30             Riesling 2013 HHH1/2         Lovely peachy/               Attractive toastinessCitrussy aromas with                                    Lovely nose; all tropical,   marmalade complexity-.       to the nose and ana yeasty touch.                                         mandarin and floral.         Elegant but powerful         oak-dominated palateAttractive fruit palate                                 Refreshing young palate      palate; very flavoursome     touched with lime fruitwith an 'explosion' of                                  showing some balanced        and showing great            notes and underscoredbubbles. $18                                            sweetness. $30               balance and length. $28      by a minerally spine. $15                                                        Kalleske Florentine                                       Windowrie Pig inOther                                                   Barossa Valley                                            the House CowraDry White                                               Chenin Blanc                                              ChardonnayVarietals &                                             2013 HHH                                                  2013 HHH1/2Blends                                                  Integrated aromas with a                                  Creamy citrus/melon                                                        funky lift and nice palate                                fragrances and very12 TASTED                                               texture. Fruit/sweet oak                                  interesting bright citrus8 AWARDED                                               complexity. $19                                           palate with crunchy                                                        Settlers Ridge                                            acidity. A great wine. $25Some very positive                                      Margaret Riverresults here with a great                               Chenin Blancdiversity of varietals and                              Sauvignon Blancregions; great to see.                                  2012 HHH                                                        Unusual and interesting                                                        blend with a mix of                                                        tropical fruit and fig-like                                                        characters. $19128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
feature tasting                            Other Dry                    Whistling Kite              The Hedonist                Kalleske Clarrys                            Red Varietals                Biodynamic SA               McLaren Vale                Barossa Valley G.S.M.                            & Blends                     Riverland Petit Verdot      Tempranillo                 2013 HHHH1/2                                                         2010 HHHH1/2                2012 HHH1/2                 Nose rich with stewed                            16 TASTED                    Lovely wine; alluring       Fragrant nose with          fruit; a hint of leafiness                            14 AWARDED                   savoury bouquet             attractive herbal           and some licorice                            \"It was easy to write        showing a sweet             undertones and              complexity. Very                            comments on these            perfumed lift and a         leathery dark fruit         attractive silky smooth                            wines which showed           juicy fresh, sweet fruit,   flavours with a solid       palate loaded with                            individuality across the     palate.  3-5 $30            tannin backbone. $25        sweet dark fruit and                            board,\" said one judge.                                                              powerful tannins.                            \"Like the 'other whites',    Settlers Ridge              Lark Hill Biodynamic                            this group showed            Margaret River              Wine Canberra                       3-5 $20                            alternative varieties doing  Sangiovese                  District Pinot Noir                            well in different regions.\"  2013 HHHH                   2013 HHH                    Kalleske Old                            Kalleske Buckboard           Attractive earthy aromas    A lift of stewed plum       Vine Barossa                            Barossa Valley Durif         with some funky touches.    aromas with a beetrooty     Valley Grenache                            2012 HHHH1/2                 Long, slightly grippy,      note. Attractive savoury/   2012 HHHH1/2                            A nose of cherries and       palate with good fruit      sour cherry palate. $40     Very inviting lifted                            plums with a hint of         presence. Should age                                    fragrances of cherries                            the rose garden and          very well. $24              Salena Estate Ink           and plums with a                            leathery nuances.                                        Series SA Riverland         leathery touch andGardners Ground             Savoury meaty palate         Kalleske Dodger             Montepulciano               some bright sweetCanowindra                  with a mouthful of           Barossa Valley              2012 HHH                    raspberry flavours onChardonnay                  tannins and some sweet       Tempranillo                 Very lifted fruity aromas   a lingering palate with2013 HHH                    fruit persistence. Needs     2012 HHHH                   and youthful sweet fruit    gentle tannins and aA fresh fruit-driven nose   more time. $24               Earthy, spicy and           palate with nice tannins.   creamy finish. $45and flavoursome peach/                                   leathery on the nose        \"A good package.\" $20passionfruit palate with    Whistling Kite               with a dark rich savoury                                Temple Bruersubtle oak use. $20         Biodynamic                   fruit palate wrapped in     Paxton McLaren              Langhorne Creek                            SA Riverland                 chewy tannins with a        Vale Tempranillo            Grenache ShirazRosé                        Montepulciano                good acid balance. $24      2012 HHH                    Viognier 2007 HHHH                            2012 HHHH1/2                                             Funky barnyard aspects      Attractive floral3 TASTED                    A powerful vibrant           Windowrie Pig in            to the nose with a          bouquet with a mature3 AWARDED                   purple black wine with       the House Cowra             great intense, complex,     bootpolish-like edge and                            aniseed and plum-like        Merlot 2012 HHHH            flavoursome palate. $25     slippery smooth palateA small group from          aromas and beautifully       A very varietal correct,                                nicely aged but still hassavoury to sweet            fresh berry flavours with    well made, merlot with      Settlers Ridge              some fruit evident. $18without being overdone.     firm acid and tannin         a fragrant balance of red   Reserve MargaretNice drinks according to    support. \"Very well--        and black fruits with some  River Malbec Merlot         Cabernet &your preferences.           made wine,\" said one         leafy notes, firm tannins   2008 HHH                    Blends                            judge. $35                   and sharp acidity. $25      Very interesting styleMarneden Springs                                                                     with aromas in the          11 TASTEDEden Valley                                              919 Reserve                 meaty spectrum and          11 AWARDEDPinot Noir Rosé                                          Collection Riverland        an enjoyable plummy2013 HHHH                                                Touriga Nacional            palate. $25                 An exceptional line-upVery lifted strawberries                                 2012 HHHH                                               ranging from cooland cream nose and a                                     Distinct fragrant fruit     Grenache &                  climate green fruit winessoft, smooth and sweet                                   cake aromas and some        Blends                      to the riper fuller bodiedcherry palate. \"Will have                                intense fruit, oak and                                  ones and all showingmany fans,\" thought one                                  acidity on the lengthy      4 TASTED                    excellent vibrant varietaljudge. $20                                               palate. Offers plenty of    4 AWARDED                   fruit characters.                                                         cellaring potential. $40Whistling Kite                                                                       An excellent but small      Settlers Ridge BlendBiodynamic SA                                            Gemtree Vineyards           class of medium bodied      51 Margaret RiverRiverland Rosé                                           Luna Roja McLaren           red berry wines showing     Cabernet Merlot2013 HHH1/2                                              Vale Tempranillo            pure sweet fruit.           2013 HHHHHRaspberry and Turkish                                    2013 HHH1/2                                             Dark red purple wineDelight bouquet and                                      Plums, licorice and         Gemtree Vineyards           with elegant perfumedan attractive and nicely                                 spice on the nose with      Cinnabar McLaren            fragrances and slight,textured palate showing                                  more plums on the           Vale Grenache               meatiness evident. Verylovely fruit interest. $20                               palate laced with earthy    Shiraz Mourvedre            balanced bright fruit                                                         minerally elements. $25     2013 HHHH1/2                palate with good tanninKalleske Rosina                                                                      An attractive plentiful     structure. ExcellentBarossa Valley Rosé                                      Kalleske Fordson            offering of dark            cellaring potential.2013 HHH                                                 Barossa Valley              perfumed fruit layeredSpicy cherry nose with                                   Zinfandel                   with a subtle hint of oak.          3-5 $21slight musky/herbal lift.                                2012 HHH1/2                 It has some sweetnessComplex palate with                                      A meaty jammy bouquet       and some savouriness.some savoury and spicy                                   and gentle, balanced        Good cellaring potential.notes. $19                                               palate with lingering                                                         fruit flavours with nice            3-5 $20                                                         ‘plumpness’. $24                                                                                     The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129
ORGANIC WINESWindowrie Pig in             Settlers Ridge                 Temple Bruerthe House Cowra              Reserve Margaret               Langhorne CreekCabernet Sauvignon           River Cabernet                 Cabernet Merlot2012 HHHHH                   Sauvignon 2008                 2008 HHHNose has great varietal      HHHH1/2                        Warm leathery berrylift of fragrant minty       Attractive secondary           bouquet and solid tannicblackcurrant/blackberry      aged characters                palate dense with darkfruits. Ripe palate with     developing on the lifted       fruit flavours. $18an attractive balance of     perfumed nose. Darkfloral fruits. Drink now or  chocolaty palate showingage!                         great character and fruit             3-5 $25         freshness.            3-5 $25Hart of the Barossa          Temple Bruer                   Gardners Ground            Kalleske Moppa                 J&J Rivers Lane'The Blesing' Barossa        Preservative Free              Canowindra Cabernet        Barossa Valley                 Reserve McLaren                             Langhorne Creek                Merlot 2012 HHH            Shiraz 2012 HHHHH              Vale Shiraz                             Cabernet Merlot                Complex, alluring          A generous chocolaty           2012 HHHH1/2                             2013 HHHH                      aromas and leafy           fruit nose with                Inviting sweet oak                             Amazingly deep purple          green, herbal palate.      a perfumed lift.               and plum cake-like                             wine with a lifted,            \"Will be great in a few    Seamlessly balanced            fruit characters on the                             aromatic, earthy/              years.\" $20                palate bright with berry       nose. Wonderful palate                             blackcurrant nose and                                     fruits and great oak           plumpness with solid                             powerful young tannic          Shiraz                     complexity wrapped             leathery, licorice and                             palate; great fruit                                       in gentle tannins. Very        black fruit flavours and                             definition. $19.50             28 TASTED                  enjoyable, drink now,          velvety tannins. $35                             Rosnay Organic                 23 AWARDED                 wine. $28                      Kalleske Eduard                             Central Ranges                                                                           Barossa Valley ShirazCabernet Sauvignon           Cabernet Sauvignon             A very solid class of      Paxton MV                      2012 HHHH1/22012 HHHH1/2                 2012 HHHH                      well-made, good drinking   McLaren Vale Shiraz            Peppery fruit fragrancesA lovely wine; even          Fragrant minty blackberry      wines. \"Just because a     2012 HHHH1/2                   lift off the nosebetter in time. Reserved     aromas and a long soft         wine is organic does not   A spice box of aromas          with plenty of oaknose of blackcurrants.       palate showing great           make it lesser,\" said one  on the chocolaty nose          underneath. GreatGreat length and balance     varietal fruit, good use       judge. \"On the contrary    with delicious fragrant        length of ‘thick’ savouryof fruit and tannins on      of oak and some tight          many of these wines        black cherry flavours          fruit flavours with gentlethe palate.     3-5 $32      tannins. $17.50                showed purity of fruit     seamlessly balanced by         but generous tannins                             Temple Bruer                   without being 'smashed'    the oak. An excellent,         to carry them through.Kalleske Merchant            Reserve Langhorne              by oak.\"                   and very rich, wine. $20Barossa Valley               Creek Cabernet                                                                                   3-5 $85Cabernet Sauvignon           Sauvignon Petit                                           Rosnay2012 HHHH1/2                 Verdot 2004 HHHH                                          Organic Centralaptivating blackberry        A beautifully aged wine                                   Ranges Shiraznose with forest floor,      that still has some life                                  2009 HHHH1/2earthy elements. Rich        ahead of it yet. Great                                    Beautifully aged aromaspalate with lots going       fruit - very varietal and                                 still showing a brighton, heaps of tannins and     underscored with loads                                    berry fruit lift. Soft, freshattractive sweet varietal    of grippy tannins. $25.50                                 and flavoursome on thefruit.       3-5 $28         Broombee Basket                                           fantastic, perfectly aged,                             Pressed Mudgee                             Cabernet Sauvignon                             2012 HHH1/2                             Nose is a \"charry                             wonderland of oak\" with                             some plums underneath                             and a very \"gulpable\"                             soft tannic palate. $24                                                                                       palate. Plenty of life left                                                                                       in it yet.  3-5 $17.50judges                        Troy Kalleske                       Vanessa Altman                                            Michael Paxton                        Winemaker and co-owner              Winemaker and quality                                     Winemaker for Paxton                        of Kalleske Wines.                  manager for Temple                                        Wines and formerly assistant                        Previously with Southcorp           Bruer wines for the                                       winemaker at Nepenthe Wines.                        Group, including                    past 14 years and also                                    Also viticulturalist at Hardy’s                        Penfolds, Seppelt and               her own brand, Switch                                     for five years with vintages in                        Lindemans. Also vintaged            Organic Wines. Has                                        Spain, Argentina and France.                        with Kendall Jackson                completed the Len                                         Also winemaking experience                        in California. Associate            Evans tutorial and judged                                 with Domaine Chandon and                        judge at the Barossa wine           at the Adelaide Review                                    Ryecroft (McLaren Vale).                        show.                               Hot 100 Wines.                                            Associate judge at the                                                                                                                      Adelaide Hills wine show.130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
feature tastingHart of the Barossa           Em's Table Organic         Gemstone South                 Kalleske Greenock            Rosnay Freedom'The Brave' Barossa           Preservative Free          Australia Shiraz               Barossa Valley               Preservative FreeShiraz 2010 HHHH1/2           Clare Valley Shiraz        2013 HHH1/2                    Shiraz 2012 HHH              Central RangesVanillin oak leads this       2013 HHHH                  Bright and vibrant             A big wine that will         Shiraz Mourvedrebig, generous wine                                       fragrances of                  benefit from more            2013 HHHwith its attractive                                      blackberries and spices.       cellaring. Lots of solid     Floral fragrances withconfectionery fruit                                      Fruity mid-weight palate       ripe fruit and oak-driven    some meatiness andshining through. Lovely                                  with firm tannins.             tannins. $40                 quite a tannic palatefruit cake fragrances and                                                                                            with chewy dark fruita well-balanced warming                                          3-5 $16                J&J Rivers Lane              flavours. $17.50palate. $40                                              Temple Bruer                   Reserve McLarenBaileys of                                               Preservative Free              Vale Shiraz                  Rosnay Triple BlendGlenrowan Organic                                        Langhorne Creek                2011 HHH                     Organically GrownGlenrowan Shiraz                                         Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2             Interesting, 'funky' wine    Central Ranges2013 HHHH                                                A light, bright, quaffable,    showing nice spicy fruit     Shiraz CabernetInviting candied plum                                    fruit-driven style sitting in  definition on the soft       Merlot 2011 HHHand licorice aromas.                                     the cherry spectrum with       smooth palate. $35           Powerful perfumedVery youthful and                                        some nice spiciness.                                        aromatics and light,tannic in the mouth                                                                     Robinvale Wines              slightly herbal, leanwith lovely plump fruit.                                         3-5 $19.50             Demeter Certified            green flavours. HasVery enjoyable drinking.                                 Paxton Quandong                Biodynamic                   length and power. $17.50                                                         Farm McLaren Vale              Australia Shiraz        3-5 $27                                          Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2             2008 HHH                     Sweet White                                                         Earthy/blackberry              Big, bold and very           & FortifiedGardners Ground                                          bouquet and soft bright        flavoursome. BeautifullyCanowindra Shiraz                                        berry fruit flavours with      put together and ageing      3 TASTED2012 HHHH                                                chewy tannins and a            perfectly. $25               3 AWARDEDVery lifted aromatic                                     lingering finish. $30nose and dense vibrant        A powerful wine            919 Reserve                    Shirazjuicy fruit flavours with     -intense blue fruit        Collection Riverland           Blendsunderlying herbal notes       fragrances with a vibrant  Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2                                          Good drinking withoutand what one judge            violet lift. Persistent    A big generous and             6 TASTED                     great intensity. Onedescribed as \"rustic          berry flavours and solid   complete wine with             5 AWARDED                    excellent young vintagetannins\". $20                 tannin spine. Needs        lots to offer. Christmas                                    port definitely worthJ&J Rivers Lane               time.  3-5 $19             cake fruit and warming                                      putting away.Premium McLaren                                          alcohol finish. NeedsVale Shiraz                   The Hedonist               time. $40                      A complex mix of             Kalleske J.M.K2010 HHHH                     McLaren Vale Shiraz        J&J Rivers Lane                varieties offered nice       Barossa ValleySoft charry/peppery           2012 HHHH                  McLaren Vale Shiraz            drinking and excellent       Shiraz VP 2013characters on the nose        Complex shiraz with        2010 HHH1/2                    fruit purity and expression  (375ml) HHHH1/2and a solid licorice palate;  a lovely combination       Warming developed              nicely balanced by oak.      Lots going on here!smooth, attractive and        of plums, meaty/           leathery/plum aromas.                                       Smells of spicy blackwith lovely floral notes      savoury characters,        Nicely structured palate,      Paxton AAA McLaren           fruits and brandyand gentle tannins. $35       hints of white pepper      great sweetness and            Vale Shiraz Grenache         with a very attractive,                              and persistent tannins.    length with moreish            2012 HHHH                    well-balanced palate                                                         tannins. $25                   Inviting lifted toasty,      showing perfect residual                                      3-5 $25            Broombee Basket                leathery aromas with         sweetness. Some time                                                         Pressed Mudgee                 some fruit showing           will help it to settle.                              Hart of the Barossa        Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2             through. Lengthy palate                              'The Faithful' Old         A big wine. Smells             offering a mouthful                  5+ $23                              Vine Barossa Shiraz        of blackberries and            of flavour and terrific                              2010 HHHH                  eucalypt. Interesting          tannins. $20                 Temple Bruer                              A classy tannic wine that  palate beautifully                                          Langhorne Creek                              needs more time in the     mellowed with good                                          Autumn Harvest                              cellar. Inviting peppery   tannin structure. $26          Temple Bruer                 Riesling 2011 HHH                              fruit nose and solid oak   Broombee Basket                Langhorne Creek              Not too sweet; not too                              palate layered with red    Pressed Mudgee                 Shiraz Malbec                dry. Smells of sweet                              and black fruits. $79      Shiraz 2012 HHH                2008 HHHH                    limes and pineapple                                                         Smoky tobacco and                              Settlers Ridge             herbal-like spectrum of        Tight, oaky and              with attractive nectar-like                              Reserve Margaret           aromas with a savoury,         youthful with bright         flavours.  5+ $18                              River Shiraz               cool climate, palate. $22      'varietal' fruit. Firm                              2008 HHHH                                                 grippy tannins and a         Robinvale Wines                              A big seamlessly                                          plum fruit finish. Needs     Demeter Certified                              smooth wine that's still                                  time.  3-5 $18               Biodynamic                              amazingly fruity for its                                                               Australia Late                              age. Nice spicy, peppery                                  Findley Estate               Harvest Auslese                              nuances and some                                          Organic Central              Lexia 2010 HHH                              savoury tannins. $25                                      Ranges Mudgee                A sweet consumer wine                                                                                        Shiraz Cabernet              with fragrant muscat                                                                                        Merlot 2013 HHH              aromas and flavours                                                                                        Very elegant wine            nicely balanced by the                                                                                        with a leaner, greener       acid. $15                                                                                        spectrum of aromas and                                                                                        flavours. $15                                                                                                         The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 131
NEW RELEASES264 TASTED145 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESA bit of a 50/50 result in this issue’s tasting which again shows                         Pokolbin Estate           The Pond Pinotthat we don’t give away recommendations too easily. However,                              Phoenix Hunter            Grigio Chardonnaythe good news is that there is more than enough to choose from                            Valley Semillon           2013 HHHand here we focus on the best. What excited the judges were                               Sauvignon Blanc           Subtle spicy fruit nosethe top end chardonnays, the over $25 shiraz wines, grenache                              2013 HHH                  and fresh, flavoursomeand “possibly the best line-up of pinot noirs we have seen in new                         Perfumed candied          acid palate. Has freshnessreleases”. Also, it was great to see some alternative varietals like                      bouquet and nicely        and length. $6.99lagrein and montepulciano score highly in the tasting.                                    balanced dry style                                                                                          palate with ‘sav blanc’   SauvignonSPARKLING                       Akarua Bannockburn          Chandon Le Trois              appeal. $25               Blanc &                                Central Otago               Rose Australia Pinot                                    Blends12 TASTED                       Vintage Brut                Noir Chardonnay               Gumpara Frieda's7 AWARDED                       2010 HHHH                   Rosé 2010 HHH                 Old Vine Barossa          21 TASTEDA nice solid class of           A complexity of yeasty/     A very crisp and              Semillon 2012 HHH         8 AWARDEDcommercial drinking             Vegemite-like aromas        appealing aperitif style      Melon/hay aromas and      \"A completely differentsparklings ranging from         and a complexity of         of sparkling with lovely      developing melon rind     arrangement of aromasthe young to the old; the       nicely aged flavours with   salmon pink hues. $45         flavours on a big broad   and flavours here,\" saiddry to the sweet.               plenty of acid to balance.                                palate. $16               one judge. \"This is a                                $45 NZ                      Semillon &                                              distinctive varietal that isMallee Estate                   Silkwood Pemberton          Blends                        Other White               a safe option.\"Riverland SA                    Chardonnay Pinot                                          Varietals &Moscato 2013 HHHH               Noir 2011 HHH               9 TASTED                      Blends                    Catlin CoveA vibrant, fresh and            Lifted strawberry aromas    4 AWARDED                                               Marlboroughlively wine. It is sweet        with fresh fruity flavours                                6 TASTED                  Sauvignon Blancbut balanced with a nice        and a tart finish. $25      Some youthful examples        3 AWARDED                 2013 HHH1/2spicy lift to it. “If you like  Gartleman Wines             coming on to the market                                 Pungent honeydewmoscato you will love           Blanc de Blanc              with straight semillons       Great to see winemakers   melon and herbaceousthis one,” suggested one        Chardonnay                  performing best for now,      experimenting with        aromas with ajudge. $11                      2013 HHH                    with some good ageing         other white varietals     flavoursome sweet/                                A light simple bouquet      potential here.               rather than just the red  sour palate. A real crowd                                with quite sweet zesty                                    varietals. Nice example   pleaser. $12.99                                sherbet-like flavours. $30  Pokolbin Estate Phil          of vermentino and a                                Swings &                    Swannell Hunter               dry frontignac.                                Roundabouts                 Valley Semillon                                Backyard Stories            2013 HHHH                     Heritage Estate                                Margaret River              An alert young lemony         Petite White Granite                                Chardonnay Pinot            Hunter style; very            Belt Frontignac                                Noir 2012 HHH               flavoursome with ageing       2013 HHHH                                Nose showing well           potential. \"Would go well     Lifted musky lychee                                integrated fruit/yeast      with oysters,\" suggested      aromas and an excellent                                aromas and a light but      one judge. $25                spicy fruit palate with                                complex palate. $35                                       tight fresh acid spine.                                Brick Kiln McLaren          Palmer Margaret               Would go well with a                                Vale Sparkling              River Semillon                Thai curry. $20                                Shiraz 2012 HHH             2013 HHH                                A well-aged old fashioned   A simple 'honest' wine        Millbrook Margaret                                style with a big rich       with some attractive          River Vermentino                                oaky nose and a huge        grassy varietal fruit, quite  2013 HHHH                                chocolaty palate. $26       citric and fresh. $25         A simple, light, crunchy                                                                                          style with lightly spicy                                                                                          perfumed aromas and                                                                                          lovely expression of                                                                                          varietal fruit on a long                                                                                          elegant palate. $22132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
wine & spirit insider tastingBarking Owl                Pinot                       Riesling                      ChardonnayMargaret River             Grigio/GrisSauvignon Blanc                                        7 TASTED                      23 TASTEDSemillon 2013 HHH          12 TASTED                   3 AWARDEDA soft full flavoured      5 AWARDED                                                 11 AWARDEDwine - light and spicy                                 A couple of \"worthies\"on the nose with a long    \"Lots of distinctive pink/  here but generally a          A mixed class with lotswell-balanced spicy        coppertone wines here       disappointing lot             of interest. Here wepalate. $17.95             which is an acceptable      lacking persistence on        have complex woodCapel Vale Wine            characteristic of this      the palate.                   aged style and crispDebut Western              variety,\" noted one                                       fruit driven styles. SomeAustralia Sauvignon        judge. But lots of          Moothi Estate                 crackers here at the topBlanc Semillon             borderline fruit flavour    Mudgee Riesling               end. \"None of these had2013 HHH                   wines here with the         2013 HHH1/2                   the old fashioned butteryGood honest up-front       lighter bodied wines not    Slightly sweet                malolactic characters ofblend with sauvignon       making the cut.             commercial style; a           the past,\" said one judge.blanc prominent.                                       crowd pleaser with greatHerbaceous nose and        Matahiwi Estate             length of lifted steely lime  Gibbston Highgate           Grant Burgepalate. $17.95             Wairarapa Pinot Gris        driven fruit flavours. $22    Estate Heartbreaker         Summers BarossaWild Oats Western          2013 HHHH                                                 Central Otago               ChardonnayAustralia Sauvignon        A golden wine that          Soul Growers Single           Chardonnay                  2013 HHHHBlanc Semillon             smells of cut pears with    Vineyard Eden Valley          2012 HHHHH                  A very well-crafted wine2013 HHH                   lovely intensity and        Riesling 2013 HHH             An old fashioned style      with a light and liftedA simple crisp dry         length of interesting       A classic citrussy riesling   that's developing           peachy/bacon nose andquaffer. Very elegant and  botrytis-like flavours.     nose and fresh lively         unctuous buttery ripe       attractive peach/citrusquite understated. $17.95  \"Serve chilled.\" $19.99     palate with crisp dry         fruit aromas and offering   flavours. \"Very nice,\" saidWaipara Wai Waipara                                    citrus flavours. $20          a lovely mouthful of        one judge. $27.45Valley Sauvignon           Terra X by Ernest                                         peaches and citrus fruit     Blanc 2013 HHH             Schuetz Mudgee              Capel Vale Wine               expression layered with     Silkwood PembertonLifted varietal nose and   Pinot Gris 2013 HHH         Regional Series               cashews. $25 NZ             Chardonnaya good fleshy sweet        Steely aromas and           Mount Barker                  Sanguine Estate             2012 HHHHfruit palate with lovely   nice range of savoury       Riesling 2013 HHH             Heathcote                   A nicely structured winelength. $19.99             flavours on the textured    Subtle green citrus fruit     Chardonnay                  with great oak/fruitPalmer Margaret            palate with a prickle of    aromas and flavours           2013 HHHH                   balance. Subtle aromasRiver Sauvignon            acidity. $19                with nice palate weight       A 'serious' wine            and persistent peachesBlanc 2013 HHH                                         and balance. $24.95           with toasty oak and         and cream flavours withA lovely wine - described  Waipara Wai Waipara                                       butterscotch-like aromas    a citrussy spine. $19by one judge as \"soft      Valley Pinot Gris           Viognier                      and with a nice length ofand slurpy\" with nice      2013 HHH                                                  honeyed fruit flavours.herbaceous fruit. $25      Lifted candied nose         3 TASTED                      Good acid balance. $20TerraVin Sauvignon         and a dry, flavoursome,     1 AWARDED                     Maxwell AdelaideBlanc 2013 HHH             citrus palate with sweet                                  Hills ChardonnayVarietally correct nose    undertones. $19.99          Just one wine worth           2013 HHHHand palate with simple                                 trying with the               A rich butterscotchlingering herbaceous       Nepenthe Altitude           others showing early          bouquet with somefruit and a sweet finish.  Adelaide Hills Pinot        development and               lovely sweet creamy$26.50 NZ                  Gris 2013 HHH               pressings characters.         apricot/melon fruitBabich Headwaters          Honeyed-like notes to                                     flavours showing a niceOrganic                    the citrussy nose with      Millbrook Estate              vanillin oak edge. $25Marlborough                more citrus characters      Perth Hills ViognierSauvignon Blanc            on the palate. $22          2013 HHH                           star ratings 2013 HHH                                               A solid flavoursomeBig oily tropical style    Gibbston Highgate           wine with perfumed fruit      Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofwith full on ageing        Estate Dreammaker           and good acid level - will    excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.aromas and a powerful      Central Otago Pinot         be even better in 12          All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryflavoursome palate. $27    Gris 2013 HHH               months! $35                   professionals and are compared in peer                           Orange blossom aromas                                     classes by three judges.                           and a linear, Germanic                                    CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,                           style of palate. High                                     a major mail-order business.                           acid, some residual                                       CD Cellar door price.                           sugar. $20 NZ                                             CDO Cellar door only.                                                                                     SO Sold out.                                                                                     $N/A Price not available at time of printing.                                                                                      Contact information pg 152.                                                                                             RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).                                                                                     For a complete list of what we tasted                                                                                     please refer to www.winestate.com.au                                                                                     The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 133
NEW RELEASESDeep Woods Estate            Rosé                                  TerraVin Pinot Noir         K1 by Geoff Hardy           Millbrook GeographeMargaret River                                                     2012 HHHH1/2                Adelaide Hills Pinot        TempranilloChardonnay                   4 TASTED                              A developing gamey/         Noir 2012 HHH               2013 HHH2013 HHH1/2                  2 AWARDED                             wild cherry bouquet         A complexity of fruit       Bright and cheeryA well-made                                                        with a medium bodied        cake-like aromas with       with Ribena-like fruitflavoursome chardonnay       A couple showing                      palate that has a good      similar characters on the   characters. Be greatwith tightly wound           nice clean dry savoury                mouthful of beetroot        palate. $35                 with tapas! $22citrus/savoury fruit         characteristics. Good to              and rhubarb-like flavoursaromas and a well-           see a move away from                  with a nice drying tannic   Fromm Clayvin               Sanguine Estateconstructed palate. $20      the sweeter rosés.                    finish. $39.95 NZ           Vineyard New                HeathcoteAuldstone Glenrowan                                                Akarua RUA Central          Zealand Pinot Noir          TempranilloChardonnay                   Toccas Oaks                           Otago Pinot Noir            2012 HHH                    2013 HHH2012 HHH1/2                  Coonawarra Cabernet                   2013 HHHH                   Inky black wine; smells     Quite a chewy extractedRipe honeyed                 Rosé 2013 HHH                         Perfumed dark cherry        and tastes of wild          style with serious deptharomas with some             Delicate rose petal pink              nose with subtle            strawberries with some      of cherry fruit charactersnice nuttiness and           wine with pleasant light              menthol notes and           powdery tannins. $38 NZ     and firm oaky finish. $30mouthfilling creamy          fruit sweetness on nose               nice dark cherry fruitnutty flavours with a        and palate. $NA                       expression on the palate    Mahana Nelson NZ            Other Redlong warming finish. $22                                           with soft tannins. A        Pinot Noir 2012 HHH         Varietals &One Road South               Wild Oats Mudgee                      keeper. $28.50 NZ           A gamey complexity          BlendsAustralia Chardonnay         Rosé 2013 HHH                         Akarua                      to the nose. Attractive2013 HHH                     A crisp and lively                    Bannockburn                 cherry/oak flavours on      17 TASTEDA subtle integration of oak  quaffer with delicate                 Central Otago Pinot         a tightly wound palate.     8 AWARDEDand fruit on the nose with   sweet fruit aromas and                Noir 2012 HHH1/2            Time! $41soft developing buttery      flavours. $17.95                      A delicious classic with                                A smorgasbord ofpeachy flavours. $6.99                                             complexity of creamy        Tempranillo                 interesting varietals here.Morris The Percheron         Pinot Noir                            red cherry and raspberry                                \"These are exciting andVictoria Chardonnay                                                fruit aromas and            4 TASTED                    getting better and better2013 HHH                     15 TASTED                             flavours. Good tannin       3 AWARDED                   with more suitable siteAromas of peaches and        10 AWARDED                            balance. $48.50 NZ                                      selection and better mid-cream with a hint of                                               GMH Adelaide Hills          A small class in which      weight winemaking,\"vanilla and warm, simple     Possibly the best line-up             Pinot Noir 2013 HHH         winemakers are no           said one judge.dry white flavours. $17.50   of pinots we have seen                A dry red style with dark   longer trying to makeHenley Hill Yarra            in new releases. Great                savoury/cola-like fruit,    shiraz from tempranillo.    HandcraftedValley Chardonnay            to see only one wine                  clean oak and balancing     \"These are mid-weight       by Geoff Hardy2013 HHH                     with dry red flavours                 tannins. $20                wines and should be         Limestone CoastA pleasant simple style      instead of varietal                   Barwon Ridge                enjoyed accordingly,\"       Lagrein 2012 HHHHHwith ripe tropical fruit     characters. The best                  Geelong Region              said one judge.             A huge oaky style withflavours and nice range      here show elegance and                Pinot Noir 2013 HHH                                     lovely depth of big ripeof flavours. $20             flavour persistence.                  A Cherry Ripe-like nose     Nepenthe Altitude           sweet fruit balancedThompson Estate                                                    and genuine varietal fruit  Adelaide Hills              with furry tannins. ALocum Margaret               Gibbston Highgate                     flavours with matching      Tempranillo                 very classy wine that,River Chardonnay             Estate Soultaker                      tannins. $28                2013 HHHH                   according to one judge,2013 HHH                     Central Otago Pinot                   Silkwood Pemberton          A lovely \"happy\" wine;      \"Needs to be drunk with aA pretty melon nose and      Noir 2012 HHHHH                       Pinot Noir 2012 HHH         very well-made and          big steak\".  5+ $30nicely balanced citrussy     A faultless wine with                 Fragrant cherry/            full of rich, spicy berrypalate with good acid        intense colour and                    raspberry aromas and        fruits with fine balancingbalance. $25                 velvety smooth aromas.                flavours with a soft        tannins and firm acidity.                             Excellent persistence                 herbal finish. $22                             of dark creamy cherry                                                     3-5 $22                             varietal fruit flavours                             filling the mouth and                             balanced with vanilla                             oak. $39 NZjudges - Day 1 & 2                                 Peter Simic                       Mark Maxwell                                            Steve Warrick                                 Editor/publisher Winestate        Owner and                                               Direct marketer and wine                                 Magazine. More than 35 years’     winemaker of                                            consultant. Formerly sales                                 experience in the wine industry.  Maxwell Wines.                                          and marketing manager for                                 Formerly founding publisher       Born and raised in                                      the Hamilton Wine Group.                                 of the first US colour wine       the McLaren Vale                                        10 years’ experience                                 magazine, manager of the SA       wine region, Mark                                       working in McLaren Vale,                                 Wine Information Bureau, and      has been making                                         Coonawarra and the                                 wine educator with Regency        wine since 1982,                                        Adelaide Hills. Has judged                                 College, in SA. Also a regular    and is a leader in                                      at the Adelaide, McLaren                                 wine commentator on national      the community.                                          Vale and Hobart wine                                 radio and television programs.                                                            shows.134 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
wine & spirit insider tastingMcGuigan The               Morris Blue Imperial        McGuigan CellarShortlist Barossa          Rutherglen Cinsault         Select BarossaValley Montepulciano       2012 HHH                    Valley Grenache2013 HHHH1/2               Different, interesting      2013 HHHA simple but \"happy\"       and very well made with     A very youthful wine withwine as described by       crisp cherry fruit and      plenty of confectioneryone judge. It's spicy,     firm tannins. $20           fruit showing a slightvibrant, rich and fleshy                               green side. Too early towith beautiful sweet       Grenache &                  judge. $40berry fruit and some       Blendsmouth puckering                                        Clockwork Swantannins.  5+ $28           9 TASTED                    Valley Grenache                           7 AWARDED                   2013 HHHMorris of Rutherglen                                   A warm shell of simple      A story made up of passionThe Criollo Victoria       Pertaringa Two              ripe varietal fruit with a  and tenacity for wine, artMalbec 2012 HHHH           Gentlemen's McLaren         light peppery lift, nice    and culture.A well-made wine with      Vale Grenache               tannic grip, fleshy in thea very attractive nose     2012 HHHH                   mouth. $22                   Torre Fornello: 60 hectares ofsmelling of violets and    “A top wine,” noted         Grant BurgeThe                      vineyards in the heart ofmulberries and a palate    one judge. It’s soft        HolyTrinity Barossa                          Val Tidone, Italyof dark fruits with firm   and generous with           Grenache Shiraztannins. Has potential.    youthful berry aromas       Mourvedre 2011 HHH          An Ancient 17th century rural                           and beautifully fleshy      A well-made quaffer         complex where tradition and        5+ $20             and flavoursome fruit       from a difficult year.      technology live togetherÉ                           palate. $26                 Quite soft, oaky andThe Islander Estate        Hugo McLaren Vale           spicy and developing                  Éside by side in anMajestic Plough            Grenache Shiraz             nicely. $45.95                     atmosphere of quality. 	  Kangaroo Island            2012 HHH1/2                                             Here the union of WineMalbec 2012 HHH            Deep earthy nose with                                   culture and Art cultureA soft, ripe and fleshy    a firm, ripe and fleshy                                 presents the most evidentred with dark fruit        palate showing pleasant                                 momentaromas and light fruity    ripe fruit flavours. Greatflavours. $35              wine for a BBQ. $24                                           Az. Agr. Torre Fornello                           Tapestry McLaren                                                    Loc. FornelloCeravolo Adelaide          Vale GrenacheHills Barbera              2012 HHH1/2                                                29010 Ziano (PC) Ð ITALY2013 HHH                   Warm and cuddly style                                          Tel. +39.0523.861001A pleasingly simple and    of red with a complexsavoury quaffer with a     savoury nose and a                                           [email protected] touch of fresh spicy  generous chocolatyfruit. $20                 palate. Ready for                                           The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 135                           drinking now. $28Handcrafted                Millbrookby Geoff Hardy             Geographe GrenacheLanghorne Creek            Shiraz MourvedreGraciano 2013 HHH          2013 HHHFresh and vibrant with     Lovely blend of spicy,some lovely spiciness      herbal and savouryand some soft and          characters, cleverlygentle tannins. $30        oaked and with good                           tannin structure. $22Chateau MilduraThe TroubadourCarmenère 2012 HHHA mature oak-drivenstyle with just a hintof fruit and very firmtannins. $19.99                        Steven John                    Stuart Bourne                        Owner/winemaker of             Senior winemaker                        Stephen John Wines.            at Chateau Tanunda.                        More than 30 years’            Formerly winery                        winemaking experience.         manager and                        Has judged at Adelaide,        winemaker for Barossa                        National, and Barossa          Valley Estate. Has 13                        wine shows. Regular            years’ winemaking                        Winestate panellist and        experience. Associate                        chairman of judges at          judge at the Barossa                        the Winestate Wine of          wine show. Vintages in                        the Year Awards.               WA, Victoria and SA.
NEW RELEASESMerlot                      Silkwood Pemberton         Cabernet                    Kingston Estate                            Cabernet Merlot            Sauvignon                   Coonawarra Clare4 TASTED                    2012 HHH1/2                                            Cabernet Sauvignon2 AWARDED                   A dark brooding red        23 TASTED                   2012 HHH“Typically medium           wine with earthy-like      9 AWARDED                   Very varietal; lifted andweight wines offering       fruit layered with oaky                                ripe with chocolaty/suppleness without          overtones. Nice palate     Disappointing! A            blackberry fruit, oak andbeing overdone,\" said       freshness; loaded with     mixed bag of either         drying tannins. $14.99one judge.                  plums. $17                 prematurely advancedPertaringa Stage Left                                  wines or simple green       Step RoadMerlot 2011 HHH1/2          GMH South                  fruit ones. \"Have we        Langhorne CreekA soft easy drinking style  Australia Cabernet         pulled back too far in      Cabernet Sauvignonwith an intense colour      Sauvignon Shiraz           aiming for taut elegant     2012 HHHand excellent integration   2013 HHH                   wines instead of wines      Quite a meaty noseof mulberry fruit and oak   A powerful grippy blend.   that have ripened           and a fleshy varietallywith nice tannin finish.    Young and simple with a    sufficiently to give full   expressive palate with a                            sweet perfumed cassis      flavoured drinking?\"        tight tannic spine. $21.90        3-5 $22             nose and palate. $20       asked one judge.Hillbrook Pemberton                                                                Robert OatleyMerlot 2011 HHH             Bordeaux Chateau           Flints Gammon's             Signature Margaret          Paulmara Estates TheA pretty floral wine        Les Maurins                Crossing                    River Cabernet              Melee Barossa Valleywith lovely depth of        Bordeaux Blend             Coonawarra                  Sauvignon 2012 HHH          Shiraz Tempranillocassis fruit, cigar box     2012 HHH                   Cabernet Sauvignon          Youthful, elegant and       2012 HHHHoak and drying tannins.     Dark fruit bouquet and     2012 HHHH1/2                flavoursome with nice       A pretty perfumed                            firm grippy tannic palate  A beautiful wine - big,     integration of red fruits,  Cherry Ripe-like nose        3-5 $19             with pleasant mulberry     ripe, rich and minty        chewy oak and firm          with lovely balanced                            fruit flavours. $9.99      with a strong primary       acid. $22.95                palate showing greatCabernet                                               fruit nose and nice long                                intensity and lengthBlends                      Capel Vale Wine            varietal palate, cleverly   Xabregas Mount              of black cherry fruit                            Debut Western              oaked with a soft tannin    Barker Western              flavours. $1812 TASTED                   Australia Cabernet         profile. Needs more         Australia Cabernet          Woodgate Manjimup7 AWARDED                   Merlot 2012 HHH            cellaring. $22              Sauvignon 2011 HHH          Shiraz CabernetA solid class showing       Fresh leafy varietal                                   A great wine - fleshy       Merlot 2012 HHH1/2lovely youthful, leafy,     aromas and powerful        GMH South Australia         and rich with attractive    Dry herbal bouquet withcool climate characters.    plumy palate with good     Cabernet Sauvignon          varietal fruit and clever   roasted nut overtones.                            tannin presence. $17.95    2013 HHHH                   use of oak. $22.33          Soft and supple in theMajellaThe Malleea                                     Warm and rich with                                      mouth with nice fruitCoonawarra Cabernet         Sanguine Estate            dark ripe fruit, big round  K1 by Geoff Hardy           intensity and furryShiraz 2010 HHHH            Heathcote Cabernet         tannins, clever use of      Adelaide Hills              tannins. $20Dark, velvety and ageing    Sauvignon Petit            oak and a solid acid        Cabernet Sauvignon          Deep Woods Estatenicely. Well maintained     Verdot Cabernet            backbone. Very young,       2010 HHH                    Shiraz Et Al Margaretmulberry fruit with         Franc 2012 HHH             needs more time. $20        A lovely aged cabernet      River Shiraz Blendbalancing oak and           Subtle cabernet                                        with a subtle fleshy feel   2012 HHHtannins. Still youthful     characters on the          Pertaringa Rifle            to it. Good fruit length,   A shy nose; smokywith a future. $75          nose and a firm well-      and Hunt Adelaide           firm acid and tannins. $35  oak and hint of fruit.                            structured sweet cassis    Cabernet Sauvignon                                      Complex range of                            palate.                    2012 HHH1/2                 Shiraz                      chocolaty/licorice                                     3-5 $25           Intense crimson wine        Blends                      flavours. $20                                                       with beautiful varietal                                 Chateau Tanunda                            Millbrook Margaret         fruit of spice and          9 TASTED                    Newcastle Barossa                            River Cabernet             blackberries with toasty    7 AWARDED                   Syrah Grenache                            Sauvignon Malbec           oak to balance the tight                                Mourvedre 2012 HHH                            2011 HHH                   palate. $40                 Very consistent             A well-structured easy                            Strong minty characters                                group showing shiraz        drinker with developed                            overlying vibrant fruit    Cooks Lot Orange            combines beautifully        aromas and intense fruit-                            aromas with a sweet        Cabernet Sauvignon          with almost any other       driven palate. $24                            raspberry palate and fine  2013 HHH                    red varietal.               Paulmara Estates The                            tannins. $28               A well-rounded quaffer                                  Marriage Barossa                                                       for drinking now with       K1 by Geoff                 Coonawarra Shiraz                                                       soft primary fruit/oak      Hardy Tzimmukin             Cabernet 2012 HHH                                                       integration. $18            Adelaide Hills Shiraz       Pleasant perfumed                                                                                   Cabernet Sauvignon          aromas and nice combo                                                                                   2009 HHHHH                  of creamy sweet fruit                                                                                   This wine offers some       and oak flavours. $25                                                                                   solid drinking. It's                                                                                   powerful and complex                                                                                   with ripe chocolaty/                                                                                   mocha fruit/oak aromas                                                                                   and strong dry red                                                                                   flavours edged with                                                                                   sweet oak. Ready for                                                                                   enjoying now. $95136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
wine & spirit insider tastingThe Islander                                           Harcourt Valley            Harcourt Valley            ShirazEstate Old Rowley                                      Heathcote Shiraz           Barbara's Shiraz           Over $25Kangaroo Island                                        2013 HHH1/2                Bendigo ShirazShiraz Grenache                                        Youthful and lifted with   2013 HHH                   32 TASTED2012 HHH                                               a perfumed aromatic        Lively easy drinker with   23 AWARDEDSweet herbal nose                                      nose and medium            lovely freshness of        A great class to judge!with earthy notes and                                  bodied palate with lovely  mulberry jam-like fruit    \"This is why the varietygreat palate line with a                               creamy raspberry length.   aromas and flavours.       does well in Australia,\"peppery finish. $35                                                                                          said one judge. \"These                                                               3-5 $25                    3-5 $25            wines show beautifulShiraz                                                                                                       length, no dead fruit$25 & uNDER                                            Sanguine Estate            Z Wine Rustica             and no over oaking.\"                                                       Progeny Heathcote          Barossa Shiraz             Genuinely concentrated31 TASTED                                              Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2         2012 HHH                   wines that will enhance18 AWARDED                                             Lots of zesty youthful     Velvety perfumed fruit     the image of Australian                                                       cassis fruit with a hint   aromas and a freshness     shiraz overseas.A solid class with very                                of beef cubes on the       of ripe blackberry fruitfew faults overall. Many                               nose and nice balanced     flavours.  3-5 $15         Paulmara Estateswines here are in the                                  mouthful of charry oak                                Syna Barossa Valleyfirm fruit spectrum                                    on the palate. $25         Johnston Oakbank           Shiraz 2012 HHHHHrather than being the                                                             Shiraz 2012 HHH            \"A top wine,\" said one\"fruit bombs\" of the past.                             Wild Oats Mudgee           Nose had a subtle          judge. \"Old fashioned,Of course a number of                                  Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2         perfumed ripeness with     cuddly and rich.\" Still hasthese were from cool                                   A combined bouquet         a dark berry length to     great freshness. Stylishclimate regions who                                    of solid oak and firm      the medium bodied          sweet varietal fruit andwould struggle to get       Blackstone Paddock         spicy fruit. Fleshy in     palate. $20                clever use of oak. Hasexcess ripeness anyway.     Barossa Valley             the mouth with dry                                    tarry aromas and a silky                            Shiraz 2012 HHHH           red flavours and lovely    Thompson Estate            feel to the mouth. $50Barking Owl                 A deep burgundy colour     tannins.  3-5 $17.95       Four Chambers              Pertaringa Over TheWestern Australia           with a clean lifted                                   Margaret River             Top McLaren ValeShiraz 2011 HHHH            berry bouquet and a        Windance Margaret          Shiraz 2012 HHH            Shiraz 2012 HHHHHA well-crafted and          full-flavoured jubey       River Shiraz               A good style with          A rich porty oldseamlessly balanced         blackberry palate that's   2012 HHH1/2                cashews and plums          fashioned style of shiraz.wine driven by the fruit    developing nicely. $19.99  Some well-handled          on the nose and some       Great crimson colourwith subtle use of charry   Howlin' Gale               cassis and berry fruit     firm linear flavours.      with beautiful tight freshoak and with a drying       Force 10 Reserve           nicely integrated                                     fruit and cedary oaktannic finish. $17.95       Langhorne Creek            with the cedary oak.               3-5 $20            nose and palate with a                            Shiraz 2012 HHHH           Reserved aromas but                                   chewy oak finish. It justTapestry Regional           Lovely colour intensity    intense flavours. $22      Flints Rostrevor           needs more time in theMcLaren Vale Shiraz         with dark plum                                        Coonawarra Shiraz          cellar to really shine. $402012 HHHH                   fragrances and an intense  Robert Oatley              2012 HHHClosed, but well            concentration of varietal  Signature                  Firm youthful varietalintegrated fruit/oak        flavours showing good      McLaren Vale Shiraz        fruit with mintyaromas. Palate displays     fruit freshness. $22.50    2012 HHH1/2                overtones and good usegood length of fine                                    Dark velvety red wine      of charry oak to balance.sweet plum fruit with                                  with intense plumdrying oak. A keeper.                                  aromas and lovely                  3-5 $22                                                       creamy length of cassis        5+ $22                                         flavours with a hint of    Hugo McLaren Vale                                                       licorice. $22.95           Shiraz 2012 HHH                                                                                  Old fashioned meaty                                                       Heritage Estate            aromas with a                                                       Single Vineyard            flavoursome palate -                                                       Granite Belt Shiraz        tightly wound for now.                                                       2012 HHH1/2                Needs time. $24                                                       Ripe concentration of                                                       velvety plum-like aromas   Mt 0 Degrees                                                       with similar characters    Grampians Shiraz                                                       echoed on the, zesty,      2012 HHH                                                       well-rounded palate. $25   Inky black wine with                                                                                  gentle fruit cake aromas                                                       Soul Growers               and a long, opulent and                                                       Provident Barossa          flavoursome palate. $25                                                       Valley Shiraz                                                       2011 HHH1/2                                                       Berry fruits and oak on                                                       the nose and delicious                                                       jubey blueberry palate                                                       with a hint of licorice                                                       and a drying finish. $25                                                                                             The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137
NEW RELEASES                   Gumpara Mader                                          Handcrafted                               Reserve Barossa                                        by Geoff Hardy138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER  Shiraz 2012 HHHHH                                      McLaren Vale Shiraz                               A well-made wine with                                  2012 HHHH                               a creamy fruit cake                                    A big, rich and warm                               of a nose followed by                                  traditional Aussie style                               a ripe and enticingly                                  with great upfront Cherry                               flavoursome palate.                                    Ripe-like fruit characters                               Quite oaky but very                                    and vanillin oak adding                               spicy with nice depth of                               complexity. $30                               sweet varietal fruit. $50                              Majella Coonawarra                                                                                      Shiraz 2012 HHHH                                                                                      An enticing combination                                                                                      of black, blue and red                                                                                      fruits nicely integrated                                                                                      with the oak and                                                                                      showing a firm tannic                                                                                      spine. $30                               Grant Burge                 Dolan Barossa              Robert Oatley                               Meshach Barossa             Shiraz 2010 HHHHH          Finisterre Great                               Shiraz 2009 HHHHH           Another big, rich and      Southern Syrah                               A beautiful wine with       old fashioned shiraz.      2012 HHHH                               nicely retained varietal    Great colour. Complex      Big complex toasty                               fruit in the fruit cake     aromas of sweet new        oak nose underscored                               spectrum, nice use          oak and rich berry fruit.  by berry fruit. Very                               of sweet oak adding         Rich and chocolaty         warming palate loaded                               complexity with great       in the mouth with          with a combo of                               powerful tannins. \"It       excellent flavour,         stonefruit and sweet                               needs a steak,\" suggested   structure and length.      oak flavours. $39.95                               one judge. $181.95          $48.99                               Brown Brothers              Heartland                  Z Wine Julius Barossa                               Patricia Heathcote          Directors Cut Shiraz       Shiraz 2012 HHHH                               Shiraz 2009 HHHHH           2012 HHHH1/2               Quite steely fruit aromas                               A rich, warm and inviting   A full, fleshy and firm    and good depth of rich                               crowd-pleaser loaded        shiraz with excellent      red berry fruit and sweet                               with ripe berry varietal    colour. It's a powerful    oak flavours. Has style                               fruit, lots of oak, nicely  blend of vibrant fruit     and elegance just needs                               softening tannins and       and gentle oak with        time. $45                               lovely bottle age adding    furry tannins developing   Windance Reserve                               complexity. \"A really       excellent complexity       Shiraz 2010 HHHH                               lovely wine.\" $58.70        but needs a little more    Inviting and friendly with                                                           cellaring time. $32.99     lovely retention of sweet                                                           Sanguine Estate            plum fruit, 'sensible' use                                                           Inception Heathcote        of oak and soft tannins                                                           Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2        with further cellaring                                                           A classic Aussie shiraz.   potential. $30                                                           Quite an oaky old school                                                           style, at its peak. A                                                           mellowness of sweet                                                           fruit and oak on the nose                                                           and a warm, flavoursome,                                                           enticing palate with dry                                                           tannins. $40                                                           K1 by Geoff Hardy                                                           Adelaide Hills Shiraz                                                           2010 HHHH1/2                                                           Again a lovely big old                                                           fashioned New World                                                           style of shiraz. Faint                                                           stonefruit and mocha                                                           aromas with great depth                                                           of spicy fruit flavours                                                           laced with rich toasty                                                           oak characters. $35
wine & spirit insider tastingPicarus Wrattonbully     James Haselgrove            Auldstone Silver            Australia’sShiraz 2012 HHH1/2       Futures McLaren Vale        Jubilee Glenrowan         first organicLong elegant style with  Shiraz 2011 HHH             Grand Muscatsubtle aromas and light  Powerful stalkiness to      NV HHHH                         certifierspicy peppery palate     the nose with a sweet       A younger style ofexhibiting excellent     fruit palate showing        muscat with slightly      Proud sponsor of thefreshness. $70           peppery notes. $38          reserved but intense      Australian OrganicBarwon Ridge                                         fruit cake-like fruitGeelong Region           Quorum McLaren              characters, well-              Wine of the YearShiraz 2013 HHH          Vale Shiraz 2011 HHH        integrated oak andA soft gentle wine       Solid oaky aromas with      warming alcohol. $40      www.nasaa.com.auwith lovely spicy oak,   a warm inviting balance     Morris of Rutherglenperfectly matched with   of retained fruit flavours  Cellar One Classic                The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 139fresh chocolaty plum     and oak. $50                Liqueur Topaquefruit. $28                                           NV HHH1/2Grant Burge              Pokolbin Estate             Thick and luscious withMiamba Barossa           Reserve Hunter Valley       dried prune and toffee-Shiraz 2012 HHH          Shiraz 2011 HHH             like characters lacedSlight medicinal         Very drying oak-driven      with an intensity of teacharacter to the nose    style underscored by        leaf-like notes. $21.25with a \"yummy\" silky     very pleasant sweet         Matahiwi Estatesmooth palate. $27.45    varietal fruit. $60         Holly Wairarapa LateGartelmann Wines                                     Harvest SauvignonOld Vines Shiraz         Sweet White                 Blanc Riesling2012 HHH                 & Fortified                 2013 HHH1/2Rich spicy plum fruit                                Tropical and citruswith a touch of spice,   11 TASTED                   fruit bouquet with afirm acid, lovely oak    7 AWARDED                   hint of botrytis. Nicelength and a tannic                                  lusciousness to thespine. $30               Mixed results in the        sweetly balancedFromm La Strada          sweet whites with           palate. $28.99Syrah 2012 HHH           some wines giving solid     TerraVin NobleHuge splintery oak       results while others        Sauvignon Blancabounds here but         showed winemaking           2013 (375ml) HHH1/2there is also some       faults. The fortifieds      Honeyed herbaceousnessgreat berry fruit lying  were an excellent           to the nose and a veryunderneath! $36 NZ       group with lots of lovely   sweet and lusciousSoul Growers Slow        luscious wines.             palate with a good acidGrown Barossa                                        backbone. $39.95 NZShiraz 2012 HHH          Scion Rutherglen            Brown BrothersA tarry jammy monster!   Grand Muscat                Patricia King ValleySoft smoky aromas and    NV HHHHH                    Noble Riesling 2009a warming palate with a  A gorgeously rich           (375ml) HHH1/2lingering finish. $50    dessert wine with a         A good sweet                         beautiful treacle-like      commercial style, deep                         bouquet and long            golden in colour with                         lingering scrumptious       nicely aged botrytis                         flavours reminiscent        fruit aromas and                         of prunes and raisins       flavours. $36.70                         on the rich and well-                         balanced palate. $49                         Morris of Rutherglen                         Cellar One Classic                         Liqueur Muscat                         NV HHHH                         Reserved caramel                         aromas and a silky                         smooth integration of                         aged characters and                         luscious nutty caramel                         flavours with warming                         alcohol. $35
top 40Church Road Hawke's Bay            Mallee Estate Riverland              Brancott Estate Special            Main Divide WaiparaRosé 2013                          SA Moscato 2013                      Reserve Marlborough                Valley Riesling 2012Softly mouthfilling blend          A vibrant, fresh and lively wine.    Fumé Blanc 2013                    Slightly honeyed bouquet.of merlot, syrah, cabernet         It is sweet but balanced with a      Fleshy and full-bodied, with       Full-flavoured, with lemony,sauvignon and malbec.              nice spicy lift to it. “If you like  fresh, strong, tropical fruit      peachy notes, a distinct hint ofSalmon pink, with substantial      moscato you will love this one”,     flavours seasoned with nutty       botrytis and gentle sweetness.body (14.5 per cent alc/           suggested one judge. $11             oak and a slightly buttery         (From Pegasus Bay.) $19.95vol) and delicious depth of                                             note. Youthful, with verystrawberry, spice and slight       Mallee Estate Wines                  good vigour and depth. Best        Pegasus Bay Wineryapricot flavours, smooth           0429 951 088                         drinking mid-2014+. $19.95         +64 3 314 6869and lingering. Delicious           [email protected]                                          [email protected]. A bargain at $19.95.          www.malleeestatewines.com.au         Pernod Ricard New Zealand          www.pegasusbay.com                                                                        +64 9 336 8368Pernod Ricard New Zealand                                               [email protected]+64 9 336 8368                                                          www.Pernod-Ricard-nz.comkylie.robertson@pernod-ricard.comwww.Pernod-Ricard-nz.comBest VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2ND0E&R                        Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider.   To Qualify                                 Some wines may - if they are still available - remain                                 in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others     1 Wines must have first been recommended                                 will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines.     in Winestate Magazine style or new release                                 The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing     tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal                                 comprises the best wines currently available, from big-  tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or                                 name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’        blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines.                                 from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate       2 Wines from designated regional tastings                                 Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives      are eligible provided they are widely available.                                 credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines     3 All wines must be currently available from                                 that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much       the winery, or be readily available in the                                 more expensive cousins.                                  marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable.         $25 NZD & under140 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
Elephant Hill Hawke's Bay         Catlin Cove Marlborough         Church Road Hawke's Bay            Church Road Hawke's BaySauvignon Blanc 2013              Sauvignon Blanc 2013            Sauvignon Blanc 2013               Chardonnay 2013Mouthfilling, crisp, vibrantly    Pungent honeydew melon and      Vibrantly fruity, full-bodied      Fragrant bouquet, showingfruity wine, estate-grown         herbaceous aromas with a        wine, grown in the company’s       impressive complexity.near the coast at Te Awanga.      flavoursome sweet/sour palate.  cool, inland vineyard at           Mouthfilling, with strong,Tight and lively, with sweet      A real crowd pleaser. $12.99    Matapiro. Fleshy, with ripe,       peachy, faintly buttery flavours,fruit characters and fresh,                                       tropical fruit flavours to         excellent harmony and astrong, tropical fruit flavours,  Winetrust Estates               the fore, lively acidity and       smooth finish. Still youthful,showing a touch of lees-ageing    02 9949 9250                    very good depth. $19.95            but already delicious and acomplexity. Excellent example     [email protected]                                          wonderful buy at $19.95.of the regional style. $22        www.winetrustestates.com        Pernod Ricard New Zealand                                                                  +64 9 336 8368                     Pernod Ricard New ZealandElephant Hill                                                     [email protected]  +64 9 336 8368+64 6 873 0400                                                    www.Pernod-Ricard-nz.com           [email protected]@elephanthill.co.nz                                                                              www.Pernod-Ricard-nz.comwww.elephanthill.co.nz                                                                  The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 141
top 40Stoneleigh Latitude                Molly's Cradle McLaren          Sanguine Estate Heathcote      Devil's Corner TasmaniaMarlborough                        Vale Chardonnay 2013            Chardonnay 2013                Pinot Noir 2013Chardonnay 2013                    Bright citrus and ripe melon-   A 'serious' wine with toasty   Musky red cherry bouquetFresh, lemony scents. Full-        like fruit characters nicely    oak and butterscotch-like      with violet-like nuances andbodied, vibrant and smooth,        integrated with slightly dusty  aromas and with a nice length  a long lingering strawberrywith lively acidity and citrusy,   oak. Creamy mouthfeel. $19.99   of honeyed fruit flavours.     and cream varietal fruitslightly buttery and toasty                                        Good acid balance. $20         palate with balancing oakflavours, showing very good        Molly's Cradle Wines                                           and bold tannins. $19delicacy and depth. $23            02 9979 1471                    Sanguine Estate                                   [email protected]       0417 831 076                   Brown BrothersPernod Ricard New Zealand                                          [email protected]      03 5720 5467+64 9 336 8368                                                     www.sanguinewines.com.au       [email protected]@pernod-ricard.com                                                                 www.brownbrothers.com.auwww.Pernod-Ricard-nz.com142 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
GMH Adelaide Hills                  Cooks Lot Orange             Michelini Alpine Valleys         Beresford HighwoodPinot Noir 2013                     Merlot 2013                  Merlot 2012                      McLaren Vale Merlot 2012A dry red style with dark           A lightweight with stemmy,   A well-rounded, very drinkable,  Subtle leafy nose andsavoury/cola like fruit, clean      green leafy fruit and good   style with lots of savoury       simple dry red, tannic palateoak and balancing tannins. $20      length of fine tannins. $20  fruit balanced by lovely soft    with nice vinosity. $15.90                                                                 oak. $18.50Wines by Geoff Hardy                Cooks Lot Wines                                               Vok Beverages(08) 8388 3700                      02 9550 3228                 Michelini Wines                  08 8182 [email protected]    [email protected]         0427 562 560                     [email protected]  www.cookslot.com.au          [email protected]      www.vok.com.au                                                                 www.micheliniwines.com.auCall FWW for award winning international wines. Available in all states of AustraliaFor more information: (08) 9314 7133, [email protected] or www.fww.com.au                                                                 SPECIALISTS IN PREMIUMWINE                                                                                                                The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 143
top 40Brygon Hummingbird              Wignalls Great Southern         Steeple Jack South             GMH South AustraliaCabernet Merlot 2010            Cabernet Merlot 2012            Australia Cabernet             Cabernet Sauvignon 2013Lots of vanillin oak here and   A firm and complex tannic wine  Sauvignon 2013                 Warm and rich with darkpowerful tannins under laid     with nicely evolving varietal   A beautiful long, lean         ripe fruit, big round tannins,by soft sweet fruit. $19.99     aromas and flavours. $17.99     and elegant deep purple        clever use of oak and a solid                                                                cabernet. Still very youthful  acid backbone. Very young,Brygon Reserve Wines            Wignalls Wines                  with a genuine varietal nose   needs more time. $200419 865 556                    08 9841 2848                    showing a nice subtlety [email protected]  [email protected]       oak and an extremely juicy     Wines by Geoff Hardywww.brygonreservewines.com.au   www.wignallswines.com.au        palate. \"Very more-ish\". $10   (08) 8388 3700                                                                                               [email protected]                                                                Shaw Family Vintners           www.handcraftedbygeoffhardy.com.au                                                                08 8555 4215                                                                [email protected]                                                                www.ballaststone.com.au144 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
Cooks Lot Orange                GMH South Australia                 Ekhidna She Viper                Mt Monster LimestoneCabernet Sauvignon 2013         Cabernet Sauvignon                  McLaren Vale Cabernet            Coast Cabernet 2012A well-rounded quaffer for      Shiraz 2013                         Sauvignon 2012                   An elegant but complexdrinking now with soft primary  A powerful grippy blend.            A big rich 'serious' wine with   wine. Lean minty/cassisfruit/oak integration. $18      Young and simple with a             masses of leafy mulberry         varietal characters high in                                sweet perfumed cassis               fruit, olive notes and good      acid and tannins. $15.95Cooks Lot Wines                 nose and palate. $20                level of tannin support. $19.9502 9550 3228                                                                                         Mt [email protected]            Wines by Geoff Hardy                Ekhidna Wines                    08 8723 1065www.cookslot.com.au             (08) 8388 3700                      08 8323 8496                     [email protected]                                [email protected]    [email protected]        www.mtmonster.com.au                                www.handcraftedbygeoffhardy.com.au  www.ekhidnawines.com.au                  2015                                              March 22-25, 2015          YOUR                                                                Official Australia Display    INVITATION TO                                                                International Hall 1DISPLAY AT WORLD’S                                                                 Application is at  BIGGEST WINE FAIR                                                                     http://www.winestate.com.au/lib/pdf/                                                                          Vinitaly2015APPLICATION.doc                                                                            Enquiries – Peter Jackson                                                                    08 8357 9277 [email protected]                                                                                                     The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 145
top 40Red Knot by Shingleback         Brygon Estate Family            Brygon Reserve                     Clarence Hill AdelaideMcLaren Vale Cabernet           Selection Coonawarra            Wines Martha's Lane                Grenache Shiraz 2013Sauvignon 2013                  Cabernet Sauvignon 2011         Coonawarra Cabernet                A very attractive and stylishA young high acid wine with     Fresh, vibrant and very         Sauvignon 2011                     blend. Bright and fresh on theoak dominating the cassis       drinkable with varietal         A good, well-structured wine       blueberry, mocha and spicynose and a palate that's well   aromas and flavours of leafy    with nice depth of leafy/herbal    nose. Excellent palate weightstructured and elegant. $14.95  blackcurrants with hints        varietal fruit characters. $12.99  with great cherry/berry flavours                                of coconut oak. $14.99                                             and soft tannins in support. $14Shingleback                                                     Brygon Reserve Wines08 8323 7388                    Brygon Reserve Wines            0419 865 556                       Adelaide [email protected]         0419 865 556                    [email protected]     0419 383 907www.shingleback.com.au          [email protected]  www.brygonreservewines.com.au      [email protected]                                www.brygonreservewines.com.auWINESTATE                                                                               Winery Entry Forms available at                                                     www.winestate.com.au or email Peter Jackson [email protected] Ph +61 8 8357 9277eSUvBSeCRnIBtERs                                                       Subscribers enjoy these events FREE Register online at www.winestate.com.au         Thursday 4 September 2014                               Friday 23 January, 2015                      Friday 10 April, 2015          Wine of the Year                                  The Best of the West                  Cabernet & Bordeaux Blends         Subscriber Tasting                                                            Hyatt Regency Hotel, Perth WA              National Wine Center, Adelaide     National Wine Centre, ADELAIDE                   Tickets available to Winestate Subscribers  Tickets available to Winestate Subscribers                   6pm - 8 pm                                                                         late 2014                                   late 2014            Friday 16 January, 2015                                                              Thursday 12 February, 2015                      Friday 29 May, 2015Amazing Wines of South Africa                                                     Amazing Wines of South Africa                     The World’s Greatest       Hyatt Regency Hotel, Perth WA                                                                     Shiraz Challenge X Tickets available to Winestate Subscribers                            Sydney, NSW                                                      Tickets & Location available to Winestate   Tickets available to Winestate Subscribers                    late 2014                                                                                       early 2015                                                                  Subscribers late 2014146 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER                                                                      9/05/2014 5:07:41 PM     AD_Winestate Subscriber Events QPH_JA14.indd 1
Ekhidna She Viper             Red Knot by Shingleback   Thompson Estate Four       Beresford HighwoodMcLaren Vale Grenache         McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013  Chambers Margaret River    McLaren Vale Shiraz 20112012                          Simple fresh bright       Shiraz 2012                Dark brambly fruit nose with aNose showing a leathery       fruit, complex notes                                 dash of white pepper and lighttouch to the forest floor-    developing, subtle oak    A good style with cashews  fragrant fruit flavours. $15.90like aromas. Palate is long,  and firm tannins. $14.95  and plums on the nosefirm and tannic. $19.95                                 and some firm linear       Vok Beverages                              Shingleback               flavours.  3-5 $20         08 8182 1841Ekhidna Wines                 08 8323 7388                                         [email protected] 8323 8496                  [email protected]   Thompson Estate            [email protected]     www.shingleback.com.au    08 9755 6406www.ekhidnawines.com.au                                 [email protected]                                                        www.thompsonestate.comWineof theYearSubscriberTasting                      COME AND ENJOY OVER 200 WINES ENTERED INTO THE 2014 WINE OF THE YEAR FINALS!                                                               Thursday 4 September 2014                                                             National Wine Centre, 6-8:30pm                                                      To claim your free subscriber ticket contact                                          Peter Jackson [email protected] or call 08 8357 9277                                                                                                                                          The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 147
top 40Paulmara Estates The              Z Wine Rustica Barossa                    Richard Hamilton McLaren               Shingleback DaveyMelee Barossa Valley              Shiraz 2012                               Vale Shiraz 2012                       Brothers McLaren ValeShiraz Tempranillo 2012                                                     Dark, powerful and nicely              Shiraz 2012A pretty perfumed Cherry          Velvety perfumed fruit                    lifted bramble fruit aromas            A gorgeous deep purple wineRipe-like nose with lovely        aromas and a freshness                    with up-front sweet cherry             with a dark fruit bouquetbalanced palate showing           of ripe blackberry fruit                  flavours. $19.95                       showing licorice and cola notes.great intensity and length of     flavours.             3-5 $15                                                    Well-integrated and seamlesslyblack cherry fruit flavours. $18                                            Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard      balanced meaty/licorice palate.                                  Z Wine Pty Ltd                            Hamilton                               Excellent complexity. $17.95Paulmara Estates                  0422 802 220                              08 8323 88300417 895 138                      [email protected]                     [email protected]               [email protected]                www.zwine.com.au                          www.leconfieldwines.com                08 8323 7388www.paulmara.com.au                                                                                                [email protected]                                                                                                                   www.shingleback.com.au                                                                                                                   Issue 130 | July/August 2014Editor & Publisher                                      Winestate Web Site                                         electronic medium or machine-readable form without                                                                                                                   the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic	        E-mail: [email protected]     Justin Martin	  E-mail: [email protected]	        taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor                                                                                                    the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects                                                        Printing DAI Rubicon                                       arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic 	         E-mail: [email protected]      Website: www.distalliance.comAdministrationVicki Bozsoki	 E-mail: [email protected] Director                                                                                                       Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd.                                                        WINESTATE is published seven times a year by               Telephone (08) 8357 9277Jasmine Holmes	 E-mail: [email protected]     WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,                              Facsimile (08) 8357 9212Marketing Manager                                       81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.                       E-mail [email protected]                                                        Copyright 2014 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD.            Website www.winestate.com.auPeter Jackson	      E-mail: [email protected]      This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied,Tasting Coordinator                                     photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to anyMadeline Willoughby	 E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
Loom Long Yarn McLaren            FAT'n Skinny Picker's             Blackbilly Adelaide                Vasarelli Maria'sVale Shiraz 2012                  Choice McLaren Vale               Sangiovese 2013                    Table Currency CreekA luscious and viscous style      Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon         Easy drinking style full of fresh  Sangiovese 2013of shiraz with attractive fruit/  Cabernet Franc 2012               berry fruit characters, some       Raspberry-like aromasoak aromas and a thick            A big rich dense wine but has     nice oak and some grippy           with meaty undertones.crunchy palate that's all         elegance. Pretty fruit with       tannins on the finish. $20         Savoury aromatic palate.porty and chocolaty. $15          violet and spicy nuances and                                         A pure style. $16.99                                  plenty of grippy tannins. $15     Adelaide WinemakersLoom Wine                                                           0419 383 907                       Cellarmasters Wines Pty Ltd0412 862 832                      Hastwell & Lightfoot              [email protected]    Toll Free 1800 500 [email protected]                 08 8323 8692                                                         www.cellarmasters.com.auwww.loomwine.com                  [email protected]                                  www.hastwellandlightfoot.com.au                  AUSTRALIA                        South African wineries are invited to submit their wines to the Winestate                                         presents        “Best of South Africa” tasting at Hyatt Perth, Western Australia.AD_South African Tasting QPH_MJ14.indd 1                                                                                             Wines to be in Australia by 1 Jan 2015                                                                                           (FREE SHIPPING SA to Perth available!)                                                                               Submission Form is at www.winestate.com.au and click on                                                                            “Submit my wines”Judging at Hyatt Perth 14-16 January 2015                                                                                        Trade and Subscriber Tasting 16 January 2015                                                                          Additional Trade Tastings will be held on the East Coast later in 2015                                                                                         Meet our Winestate team when we visit the                                                                                Western Cape July 14 -18, 2014 [email protected]                                                                                                                            The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 149                                                                                                                                                                                       9/05/2014 5:06:14 PM
                                
                                
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