Winestate Magazine September October 2018

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 WINESTATE VOL 41 ISSUE 5 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEWORLD'S GREATEST SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIII CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING KANGAROO ISLAND NORTH-EAST VICTORIA OTAGO, NZ PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 OUT OF THE OVER 420 TASTED Featuring SHADOWS Gumpara Hexen AUSTRALIA’S FLAGSHIP WINE M. Chapoutier L’Ermite Penfolds Grange SHIRAZ Taylors The Pioneer Bird In Hand M.A.C Gralyn Old Vine E.Guigal La Turque Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle Torbreck The Laird The Mighty Oak Henschke Hill Of Grace 1847 First Pick WHY THIS ONE SPECIES OF TREE ? K1 by Geoff Hardy IS SO VITAL IN WINEMAKING SOUTHERN New Releases SPLENDOUR South Australia’s 141tasted AND THE WINNER IS... Kangaroo Island September/October 2018 a fine fare destination Vol 41 Issue 5 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) &Champagne Sparkling NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus 143tasted Nor th-East Victoria • Kangaroo Island • Limestone Coast & Surrounds Champagne & Sparkling • Pinot Noir • New Releases • Otago (NZ)

PARTNER WITH Winestate AT THE Hong Kong InternationalWine & Spirits Fair 9-11 NOVEMBER 2018 CONTACT PHIL HOFFMANN BUSINESS TRAVEL FOR THE LATEST PACKAGE SPECIALSINCLUDING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATION CONTACT US TO BOOK YOUR PLACE Glenelg | Adelaide | Barossa Valley

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Where it all began... Schubert Estate is located on some of the most sought-after pieces of dirt in the Barossa Valley - a special patch of five blocks terroir in Marananga in the Western Barossa. “The vines grow on red-brown loam over clay, ironstone and shale on a slightly elevated ridge of about 300 metres.” The terroir of the vineyard site leads to a strong expression of Barossa Valley Shiraz - wines that are opulent, concentrated and rich, packed with black fruit, chocolate and licorice aromas, expressive tannins and structured for aging. The wines have won many international awards. Today Schubert Estate has a “Five Star” rating for its Sentinel brand in Winestate magazine’s World’s Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge 2018. The flagship wines - The Goose-yard Block Shiraz and The Gander Reserve Shiraz also regularly receive high scores. www Discover our wines at: Adelaide City Cellar Door Open weekdays 9.00am - 5.00pm 26 Kensington Road, Rose Park SA 5067 Phone 08 8431 1457 Barossa Valley Cellar DoorOpen Thursday to Sunday, 10.00am - 4.30pm 261 Roennfeldt Road, Marananga SA 5055 Phone 08 8431 1457 www.schubertestate.com

Delightful New Arrivals, all the way from Italy, to your table!Now available for purchase at: 982-992 Port Road, Albert Park, 5014 P: (08) 8349 1200 F: (08) 8349 1277 E: [email protected] CACMAPMAPGANGANFAINFIANNAZNIZAITAATAAIASI SEENNSSII www.festivalcitywines.com.au DEDLERLERGEG. U. UEENN..11330088/2/2001133 CACMAPMAPIGANIGNFINFIANNACNECEDDAACCCCOORRDDIINNGG TOTEOUEURERGEG. .NNOO..11330088//22001133

NO.291 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely YorkeManaging Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] PeninsulaNZ Editor Jane Skilton MW E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Jane Skilton MW, Emma Jenkins MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinHONG KONG Lucy JenkinsADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalWinestate PublishingPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] OgdenLifestyle Media Vic Pty LtdPhone: 03 9696 9960Email: [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comEmail: [email protected] Cellar Door and Function CentreGordon and Gotch Australia P/L Open 7 days 10am-5pmInternationalDAI Rubicon Lizard Park Drive, South Kilkerran Phone 8834 1258WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. barleystackswine@internode.on.netCopyright2018byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwhole barleystackswines.comor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisherassumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 7

contentsSEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018FEATURES and they found plenty they liked. 44 AND THE WINNERS ARE...28 SOUTHERN SPLENDOUR And Australia now claims to be the This year’s winner’s of the Winestate’s South Australia’s Kangaroo Island spiritual home of shiraz. Mainfreight World’s Greatest Syrah & continues to build an enviable 40 MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S Shiraz Challenge XIII all come from reputation as a fine fare destination, GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ South Australia with two directly reports Dan Traucki. After Winestate’s CHALLENGE XIII sourced from the Barossa Valley initial regional tasting 12 months ago, region, an incredible feat considering which recognised the Kangaroo A battle of the world’s heavyweight the range of this wonderful flagship Island Trading Company’s 2015 shiraz shiraz and syrah labels again saw red. The top award for the second as the island’s wine of the year, the the local hero - Grange - walk off with time in three years is the Bin 95 push to develop the island’s food the top award for the second time in Grange 2013. With our second place- and wine industries has gathered three years. Tasted blind by three getter hailing from the same $200 momentum. Trading on its pristine judges, it took on 430 shiraz wines plus category in relative newcomer, natural environment, the island’s from around the world, including Gumpara Hexen. This is rounded out movers and shakers have further Australian stars such as Torbreck by the amazing value Z Wine Julius, enhanced its appeal as a “must visit” the Laird, Bird in Hand MAC and all beating out more than 400 wines destination. Henschke Hill of Grace, and the in this diverse style tasting. finest shiraz from leading French32 OUT OF THE SHADOWS producers such as Guigal la Turque, R E G U L A R S Up until the 1970s shiraz lurked in the Paul Jaboulet la Chapelle and 12 Briefs Chapoutier L’Ermite. In a nod to the 18 NZ Briefs dark corners of the Australian wine skills of domestic winemakers, our 20 European Report with Sally Easton industry, labelled as “hermitage” judges awarded 50 five-star wines 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley or “burgundy,” but all that changed and 60 four-and-a-half-star wines 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King when the world discovered Penfolds - the first time we have awarded 26 Wine History with Valmai Hankel Grange, writes Dan Traucki. such high scores for so many wines. 48 Grapevine Based on Grange’s success, wine And the stars were not confined 56 Wine Words drinkers went searching for other to the top-end wines, they were 58 What’s it Worth? Australian-made premium shiraz spread across a number of price 60 Wine Investment & Collecting ranges, so there’s a winning red for 138 Aftertaste most budgets. Mainfreight World’s Greatest Syrah & Shiraz Challenge W I N E TAST I N G S XIII tasting starts page 64. 64 Shiraz/Syrah & Blends 86 Pinot Noir Winestate Magazine 92 Kangaroo Island Issue Number 291 94 Limestone Coast & Surrounds September/October 2018 102 North-East Victoria 106 Champagne & Sparkling Cover image 114 Otago (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley) ARPORN SEEMAROJ 117 Jane Skilton’s Recent Releases 124 New Releases and Best Value Buys under $20. For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au8 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

THE ART OF WINE.DOWN TO EARTH.Austrian wines are invitations. of nature, Austrian wines proudly standSimply open a cellar door to meet the among the world’s greatest wines andmost approachable international stars are poured at renowned restaurants allimaginable: the great wines of Austria. over the globe.Produced by true artisans respectful austrianwine.com



editorialFORTHIS ISSUE I am delighted to report one of our strongest results for one of our judgings.Not surprisingly it was in our annual Mainfreight World’s Greatest Syrah & Shiraz ChallengeXIII. While this has always been a great performing category, we were somewhat shocked tofind that overall the judges awarded 50 five-star wines and 60 four and a half-star wines. Weare not known for being so generous. What’s going on? It turns out some of my earlier predictions about the 2016 vintage for reds have indeedeventuated. But also a number of the high-performing ’07s were no slouches either, alongwith a selection of finely-crafted older wines. It seems that winemakers are really lifting theirgame in this highly competitive marketplace. Great news for consumers. And I should addthis is across a number of price ranges; you don’t have to take out a mortgage to buy somevery nice wines to drink now or put away. As usual what makes this judging special is that we go out of our way to include the“untouchables,” the wines that are never submitted normally because they are on a hidingto nothing to be included. If they get five-stars this is expected, if they don’t this is a disasterto their reputation. We have a kind of perverse enjoyment in putting them to the test, as theyshould be. If they do get high ratings in this blind judging we applaud them, if not we stillinclude those results. It should be pointed out that they are being judged by their peers, so there is underlying respect here. This yearon show we had Guigal la Turque, Paul Jaboulet la Chapelle and Chapoutier L’Ermite in the French corner and Grange, Torbreck theLaird, Bird in Hand MAC and Henschke Hill of Grace in the Australian corner. You will have to read the reviews to see how they went. Also in this issue we were pleased to show off the elegant cousin of shiraz, pinot noir, lighter in colour and sometimes in flavour, butat its best some would say feisty and complex in its own way. Strangely, the best results were at the value end with little interference bywinemakers, creating fresh and lively drinkable wines, or at the pricey end where expert winemakers and fruit quality merged. In themiddle it was problematic. A variety that seems to be growing in popularity in Australia. For those who love regionally-based wines we have a treat for you, with the distinctive varietal cabernets and shiraz from LimestoneCoast and the Italian varietals from King Valley and Alpine Valleys of Victoria, finishing with world-class fortifieds from Rutherglen. Forour New Zealand judging this issue, we are pleased to present the wines of South Island’s Central Otago, where again pinot noir reignssupreme! To please you bubbly people we have our annual Sparkling and Champagne judging. We note the rise of simple yet refreshing prossecos,quality flavoursome Aussies and Kiwi bottle fermented examples, and some great champagnes from both small and large Houses. And finally, New Releases, where the whole range of varietal wines and blends are on display for you. As if you don’t have enoughalready! Lots to like and lots to enjoy.Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherFAREWELLWe would like to take this opportunity to thank two of our departing wine journalisYtso, VuarlmwaiiHnaen,kel and Jane Skilton. Valmai hasbeen writing our wine history column for over 20 years and has become in that time the leading wine historian in Australia (andour ports.partly New Zealand with the James Busby connection). She has retired from all forms of writing and we will greatly miss herthorough investigations. We also thank Jane, our New Zealand wine editor, whoAhuastsraltiahese past few years found it increasinglydifficult to keep up with her Winestate role due to her amazing international workElxopaordt .CuWsteomweriSsehrvhiceer well and look forward to herinsightful articles from time to time. We welcome back Michael Cooper our old, yet ne13w00a1g34a0in96, New Zealand wine editor. He willbe combining his Winestate responsibilities with his own New Zealand Wine BuyEiqnugipm1G3e0un0tida1n3ed5 L8bo0og1iostkic,s a nice synergy.Major Sponsors and Supporters Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsMACEDON MOVE FOR NEAL Molines of one-hatted Bistro Molines. The couple has been a leading force in the Hunter dining scene for 45 years. WinemakerGEELONG winemaker of the Year went to Stuart Hordern, of Brokenwood; Viticulturist ofDoug Neal is returning the Year to Neil Stevens, of Glen Oak Wines and Rising Star of theto his first great loves - Year was presented to Aaron Mercer, of Tamburlaine Wines. Forchardonnay and pinot the second time, Margan Wines took out Cellar Door of the Year.noir - in a new regionunder a new brand. An early 1960s Hunter Valley wine label featuring a sketch of Governor John Hunter has been awarded the Hunter Valley wine The long-time maker industry’s 2018 Heritage Award.at Paradise IV inGeelong’s Moorabool The label was one of the earliest to appear on the wines ofValley is moving on W. Drayton & Sons. The annual award recognises the region’sfollowing the decision pioneering places, and has been awarded in the past to theby Paradise IV vineyard owners, Graham and Ruth Bonney, to Pokolbin Cemetery (where legendary winemakers such as Murrayput the 4ha property up for sale. Neal will move to the Macedon Tyrrell are buried) and early wine labels produced by Tulloch andRanges wine region to make wine for Elizabeth Hudspeth and Maurice O’Shea.Alex Stevenson at Hesket Estate where chardonnay and pinotnoir are the lead wines. “They’ve got some wonderful pinot and WOMEN IN THE SPOTLIGHTchardonnay at Hesket,” he added. His own wines will be madeat Hesket and will include a shiraz sourced from the old Seppelt THIS year’s Australian Women In Wine Awards will be announced inMount Lofty vineyard in the Grampians. conjunction with Australia’s first ever Women In Wine Symposium. As part of a “last hurrah,” he recently held a tasting of Paradise The event will draw women and men from all over the country toIV back vintages of chardonnay, Chaumont (a blend of cabernet Sydney’s Quay Restaurant on November 16.sauvignon, shiraz and cabernet franc) and the flagship Dardelshiraz. The chardonnays, it has to be said, were a major highlight, The day will feature speakers and panel discussions, and willwhich augurs well for the future. deal with issues of diversity in the workplace and equality and fairness for all sexes. Awards presented during lunch will includeAUSTRALIA’S TURN Winemaker of the Year, Viticulturist of the Year and Owner/Operator of the Year, among eight awards. The following day, the AWIWATHE Chinese market has developed a taste for French cabernet together with Revel will conduct a consumer open tasting focusingsauvignon, but Chinese drinkers are now also turning to Aussie on wines grown and/or made by Australian women in wine. Morecabernet. details are available from www.WomeninWineAwards.com.au Demand is growing, so much so, that China is now the main GODFREY DELIVERSoverseas destination for Australian cabernet sauvignon. In the 2017vintage, production of the grape rose 8 per cent on the previous year, WHEN long-time Penfolds fortified winemaker James Godfreyand export sales are near record levels, increasing 20 per cent in the was given the go ahead to create a series of new fortifieds, hislast 12 months to 15.4 million cases. China is the main destination brief was quite specific.with a 43 per cent share of the export cabernet market. Increaseddemand is having a beneficial effect on grape prices. Wine Australia “It had to be good, it had to excite and had to surprise,”research reveals that prices for the grape have increased in the recalls Godfrey. He didn’t hold back. The first fortifieds releasedRiverland, Murray Darling/Swan Hill and Barossa Valley, as well as under the new brand - Penfolds Special Bottlings - are full oftraditional top spots Margaret River and McLaren Vale. surprises. Lot 518 Spirited Wine With Baijiu ($150) is one of theLEGENDS LINE UPHISTORIC Ben Ean winery, fully refurbished under new owners,was the setting for the annual Hunter Valley Legends and WineIndustry Awards. This year, for the first time, a Tourism Legend Award wasintroduced and was awarded to restaurateurs Robert and Sally12 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

briefsfirst fortifieds in the world that uses baijiu, a traditional Chinese MOVING ONspirit, as the fortifying spirit behind a western grape variety, inthis case, Australian shiraz. Godfrey visited China and tasted BOTOBOLAR, the biodynamic pioneer in the Mudgee region has beenand researched many types of baijiu, but settled on a fragrant, sold by owners Kevin and Trina Karstrom after 25 years at the helm.lighter style made from fermented sorghum. “When I was given The couple, who took over from Gill Wahlqvist, has sold the propertythis spirit to look at, it was literally a lightbulb moment,” exclaims but Trina says, “the brand will live on as there are several partiesGodfrey. The baijiu brings a cherry spice character to the interested from both organic and conventional areas of viticulture”.ripe, red-berried shiraz flavours in the new fortified. The wine As things develop there will be a press release. She added: “Theis expected to sell well in China and, according to Godfrey, it dry land vineyard has unfortunately been a victim of too manypairs especially well with Chinese food. droughts and is now over 45-years-old so barely viable. The source of 90 per cent of Botobolar grapes in the past few years has been The second new fortified - Lot 1990 Pot Distilled Single Batch from other organic growers. “Botobolar will not fade away as manyXO Brandy ($425) - was placed in oak in 1990 and has been boutique wineries have done of late, but enter another chapter.”used in the past in Penfolds Grandfather Rare Tawny. Lot 1990is fine and delicate, with a lifted smokiness on the nose. Bothwines will be available in China and from Penfolds cellar doorand selected retail outlets.REWARDED FOR SERVICE WHEY TO GOTWO leading Australian winemakers have been awarded honours IT was just three years ago that Ryan Hartshorn launched hisin the annual Queen’s Birthday Honours List. unique Sheep’s Whey Vodka from the family sheep farm and cheesery tucked away in the deep south of Tasmania. Iain Riggs, long-time Brokenwood Wines chief winemakerand managing director was named as a Member of the Order Earlier this year that same innovative drink was named as theof Australia (AM) for his significant service to oenology, the Best Vodka at the World Vodka Awards 2018 in London. Hartshorndevelopment of the Australian wine industry, and promotion of Distillery scored the top award for its unfiltered sheep wheythe Hunter Valley wine region. vodka at the awards - the first time an Australian distiller has wonDavid Hohnen, who founded Cape the trophy. The judges said the vodka was “sweet on the nose.Mentelle in Margaret River and Mild fruity notes, caramel and sweet buttery taste. Gentle spicyCloudy Bay winery in Marlborough, finish.” Try it at the Grandvewe Cheese facility in Woodbridge.New Zealand, was awarded aMember of the Order of Australiafor his service to the Australian wineindustry, and for his work promotingthe Margaret River region. Afterselling Cape Mentelle and CloudyBay to Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessyin 1990, Hohnen founded McHenryHohnen winemakers. September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs www.grandvewe.com.au or at Brooke Cameron Leith. “The new cellar door allows visitors to take St Pier in Hobart. in the whole Passing Clouds experience in a fabulous new, modern, inclusive, open space. We couldn’t be happier to Tasmania also has its first hemp- know visitors will now get the full experience when they visit infused gin with the release of a us.” The new cellar door has terrific views of one of the region’s new limited-edition from Nonesuch. highest-altitude vineyards and a seamless light-filled space Nonesuch founder Rex Burdon, whose now integrates the dining room and cellar door experience. distillery is at Forcett on the road to While walk in tastings are always available, Passing Clouds the Tasman Peninsula, says the new encourages bookings which can include a seated tasting and Hemp Gin “continues the Nonesuch share platters. commitment to developing amazing spirits with complex and amazing taste Together with Spa Country Railway and with the funding and complexity”. Made in the old Dutch provided by the Wine Growth Fund, a railway platform has been style, the gin can be enjoyed neat, over constructed at the bottom of the Passing Clouds estate andice or in a cocktail. Only 120 bottles were made in the initial batch a new stop has been added to the regular timetable, makingand they retail for $69. Visit nonesuchdistillery.com.au. Passing Clouds a “must visit” destination for wine enthusiasts. It also takes away the risks associated with drink driving. “WeMAKING TRACKS aim to further increase patronage with our collaboration with the Spa Country Railway and the new Passing Clouds platform atINNOVATIVE Passing Clouds at Musk, outside Daylesford, will soon be Musk adjoining our property which will be a stop on the regularthe first winery in Australia to have a train pulling in to its own station. train route will add a remarkable and unique experience for wine tourists,” Leith says. Passing Clouds will soon launch a A collaboration between Passing Clouds and Spa Country range of “ultimate food and wine packages” with train transfersRailway, co-funded by Regional Development Victoria’s Wine including VIP tastings and lunch with matching wines at theGrowth Fund, will see visitors able to arrive by train at Passing dining room. Passing Clouds’ new cellar door is open sevenClouds. The initiative led by Passing Clouds’ Cameron and days a week 10am-5pm. The Dining Room is open Friday toMarion Leith is designed to create a unique experience for Monday for lunch from noon; phone (03) 5348 5550 or visitwine tourists and includes a complete re-build of the Passing [email protected] cellar door, which is 6km from the thriving spa town ofDaylesford. Passing Clouds, part of the Macedon Ranges wine THAI LUXURYregion, produces some of the best cool-climate wines in theregion and offers a complete tourism experience with a new FINDING good wine to drink in Thailand can be fraught withcellar door, popular dining room, winery and vineyard. “In just danger. Firstly, local taxes make wines very expensive, andtwo short years since we opened the dining room at Passing secondly hotels and restaurants do not always store their wineClouds, visitation to the estate has increased exponentially stocks away from the hot weather.and the demand for the small space we had available forcellar door visitors was being pushed to its limits,” says owner One exception to this rule is the renowned Rayavadee luxury resort in Krabi, where wines are showcased and stored impeccably. From Chateau Lynch-Bages to Opus One, Tyrrell’s to Felton Road, Rayavadee, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World group, sets the bar high for indulgence. Set on 10.5ha, with beaches on three sides, Rayavadee is accessed only by boat, and the resort offers luxury speedboat transfers that get you in the mood for tropical opulence before you have even arrived. There are just 102 rooms across the leafy resort, so the vibe is very much boutique, with all the accommodation in private pavilions ranging from two-storey deluxe pavilions (90sq/m) with garden views, to the sea-view Phranang Villa with three bedrooms, its own pool and butler. There are several dining options including The Grotto, built into an ancient cave, making it an ideal vantage point for guests who linger over cocktails while admiring the spectacular sunsets. Kura14 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

briefs of Wine Australia, said: “We’re thrilled to be hosting the world of wine in Adelaide in 2022 and look forward to showcasing Australia’s diverse and thriving wine scene, and our enviable epicurean culture.”Phranang, directly overlooking the beach, is an authentic TRADE PACTThai eatery where the chef has been installed since the resortopened 25 years ago. With views of limestone cliffs and tiny THE Winemakers Federation of Australia has welcomed theoutlying islands, it features traditional Thai dishes like whole announcement of an Australia-European Union Free Tradesea bass with ginger, and red duck curry. Raitaly Terrace Agreement.serves a la carte breakfasts and lighter dishes overlookingthe swimming pool, while Raya Dining is the main restaurant Prime Minister Malcolm Turnbull and Minister for Trade andserving breakfast, lunch and dinner with Thai, western, Indian Investment Steven Ciobo said they promoted the benefitsand Japanese options. Rayavadee, 214 Moo 2, Tumbon Ao for Australian businesses and Australian jobs by launchingNang, Amphoe Muang, Krabi; phone +6675 620 740 or visit negotiations on a Free Trade Agreement with the Europeanwww.rayavadee.com. Union. The wine sector hopes to benefit from the negotiations with the removal of tariffs into the European Union market,ADELAIDE STEPS UP WFA chief executive Tony Battaglene said. “The Australian wine sector has been a major beneficiary of the government’sTHE Masters of Wine symposium is held, like the Olympic aggressive free trade agenda and regional Australia is reapingGames, once every four years. the benefits,” he said. One issue of importance to the Australian wine sector is maintaining the rights of Australia’s winemakers to The 2018 edition ended in Logrono, Spain, and it was market their wines in Australia and internationally using grapeannounced that the 2022 edition will be held in Adelaide. variety names. Battaglene explained: “The use of grape variety names such as prosecco is a point of contention between the Brian Croser, representing Australia in Rioja, said: “We European Union and Australia. Prosecco has always been anare highly honoured and very surprised,” at the decision by internationally recognised grape variety until 2009 when thethe Institute of Masters of Wine to head to Australia for the European Union cynically sought to prevent its use by non-organisation’s next major event, which will take place from June European producers. Australia’s burgeoning prosecco industry21-24, 2022. The veteran winemaker said that Adelaide was the would be destroyed if Australian negotiators were to bow toideal place in Australia for the symposium, both because of its European demands. Flow-on effects for other grape varietiesproximity to many famous wineries and wine regions, but also could have a significant impact on Australian wine businessesbecause the city is home to both The Australian Wine Research as well as threatening other agricultural commodities.”Institute (AWRI) and Wine Australia. Croser said that by the timethe IMW comes to Adelaide “the Australian wine community will LOCAL TAKES THE PRIZEhave changed an enormous amount”. IT was not quite the Judgement of Paris re-visited, but a Thai The Australian-based symposium will follow a similar format, wine was voted as “best of show” at the third annual Best Rosétaking place over four days in mid-June. in Thailand 2018 competition, hosted by The Nai Harn Resort in Phuket. And the judging was not done by just any old judges The event in Australia will be co-hosted by Wine Australia, hauled in from off the street. The panel included world-renownedand will be the institute’s 10th symposium. Andreas Clark, CEO wine writer James Suckling and his son Jack. They selected Monsoon Valley Shiraz Thailand White 2017 as the stand-out, with the locally produced rosé outscoring almost 100 wines from around the world in a blind tasting. The critics placed it at the top of a list that included French wines such as Chateau Routas Coteaux Varois en Provence 2017, whose Routas 2016 won last year’s competition, and September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsCaves d’Esclans Cotes de Provence Whispering Angel Rosé winemaking roles and has confirmed his place as a leading2017. “I loved the balance and energy of the Monsoon Valley Australian winemaker, working with his team to create award-White Shiraz,” said James Suckling. “The tasting was completely winning wines that are the best possible expression of the fruitblind and we judged the wine for its brightness and quality.” from each vintage,” McKinnon said. “Dan is a truly progressive and talented winemaker who is very well positioned to take our “The Thai wine industry is just coming into its own with a handful Australian wines to markets around the globe.”of wineries making outstanding bottles,” said Jack Suckling.“The tropical climate is difficult for viticulture, necessitating Swincer said it was an exciting development in his career.constant management and nurturing. Experimentation is still “Jacob’s Creek is such an influential winery here in Australiathe norm, with winemakers looking for the correct methodology and throughout the world, where it plays an important role inand grape types to emphasis quality.” showcasing Australian wines to the world,” he said. “It will be an honour to continue to grow this legacy. The role as chief “Rosé wines are the ideal choice for Phuket’s tropical climate winemaker is a tremendous opportunity and exciting challenge,and we are delighted to partner with James and Jack to and I look forward to continuing to work with the incredible teamhighlight the best in the world,” said Frank Grassmann, general at Jacob’s Creek.” He will continue in his role as chief winemakermanager of the Nai Harn. at St Hugo, with an announcement to be made in due course about a replacement. Jacob’s Creek is one of Australia’s leading global wine brands, first launched in 1976 and named after the spot where Johann Gramp planted his first vines on the banks of Jacob’s Creek in 1847.SWINCER TAKES CHARGE HENKELL AND FREIXENET JOIN FORCESJACOB’S Creek has announced the appointment of Dan HENKELL, the Oetker Group’s sparkling wine, wine and spiritsSwincer as its new chief winemaker, taking over from Canada- branch, has announced the closing of its acquisition of Freixenetbound Ben Bryant. S.A.’s shares (50,67%) from the Hevia and Bonet families following the approval of the European Commission. The closing marks the Swincer now takes responsibility for wines that are sold in 77 start of an extensive cooperation with the remaining Freixenetcountries across the world. It has been estimated that global shareholders, José Ferrer Sala and José Luis Bonet Ferrer.wine drinkers enjoy approximately 1.7 million glasses of Jacob’sCreek wine daily. The Spanish-German cooperation creates the world’s leading sparkling wine group, allowing Henkell and Freixenet to access Swincer is familiar with the Jacob’s Creek range having new markets and distribution channels, enabling them to achievejoined the company in 2006 and held the position of group sustainable growth. Freixenet is the number one brand in thered winemaker since 2015. Since August 2015, he has also international sparkling wine market with leading market positionsbeen chief winemaker of the fine wine brand St Hugo. In 2011, and sales in more than 100 countries. The Henkell Group has a wideThe Wine Society voted him Young Winemaker of the Year, portfolio of sparkling wines, with market leading positions in manyand in 2015 he was a Len Evans markets, including Mionetto as the best-selling Prosecco globally.Tutorial scholar. Pernod RicardGlobal Operations director Brett Following a capital increase by Freixenet’s honorary president,McKinnon said the appointment José Ferrer Sala, he and José Luis Bonet will own 50% of Freixenetwas a testament to Swincer’sskills and vision. “Since joiningus, Dan has held a series of16 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

briefsS.A.’s share capital – while Henkell will own the other 50%. cooked chips and fresh flathead fillets served with ash and The new board of directors of Freixenet will be led by the artichoke mash. Desserts include a caramelised apple tarte tatin with walnut ice cream and a selection of cheeses fromtwo co-presidents José Luis Bonet and Dr. Albert Christmann, Tasmanian producers Pyengana, Grandvewe and Coal Rivergeneral partner of Dr. August Oetker KG. Further members will Farm. The wine list, put together by local wine educator Curleyinclude Demetrio Carceller Arce, president of S.A. Damm, who Haslam-Coates, features names like Winter Brook, Sinapiuswill contribute his expertise in the beverage industry, as well as and Moores Hill, along with some intriguing interstate andPedro Ferrer and Dr. Andreas Brokemper, spokesman of Henkell’s imported options. It’s also well worth staying overnight in themanagement, who both will become managing directors. hotel, particularly if you can snare a room overlooking the Tamar River. Originally erected in 1960, the Kings Wharf grain Enrique Hevia Ferrer, spokesman for the selling shareholders, silos were left unused for decades until two years ago. Thesaid: “The sale of our shares is a very emotional moment for us. redeveloped site is now a 10-level hotel featuring 108 guestIn Henkell we found the perfect partner for Freixenet. Our families rooms, including 52 inside the barrels of the former silos,would like to thank all employees for their hard work and loyalty over undercover car parking, conference facilities and an integratedthe years and wish Freixenet all the best for the future.” lobby and reception space. Amenities on-site include a gym, day spa, child-minding facilities, hairdressing salon, function José Ferrer Sala, honorary president of Freixenet, added: “The centre and private dining rooms. Owner and developer Errolcooperation with Henkell will not only give continuity to Freixenet, Stewart said Launceston needed new tourism projects anda company renowned for its tradition, but will also strengthen its has a shortage of hotel rooms in summer. Peppers Silo, 89-91international leadership in the world of cava.” Lindsay St, Invermay, Launceston; phone (03) 6700 0688 or visit www.grainofthesilos.com.au. Dr. Albert Christmann, general partner of Dr. August Oetker KG,emphasized: “Henkell and Freixenet share a deep understandingof tradition, quality and continuity. The strategic partnership will helpto develop new business opportunities, strengthening our marketpositions in the growing global sparkling wine market.”FIVE-STAR NEW COMERLAUNCESTON, Tasmania’s second city and the gateway to theTamar Valley, has a new five-star hotel and top-notch eatery, withthe opening of the Peppers Silo Hotel and the Grain of the Silosrestaurant overlooking the water in Invermay. Opened in earlyJune, the Grain of the Silos Restaurant, which boasts celebritychef Massimo Mele as consultant, delivers on a promise ofpaddock-to-plate eating. The menu comprises foods from localfarmers delivering world-class produce, including Tasmanianbeef and lamb, along with fresh seafood. Head chef Peter Twitchett lists all his producers on theback of the restaurant menu and says he particularly enjoysRobbins Island beef, wasabi, black truffles, hazelnuts and thehumble Tasmanian potatoes. Mele and Twitchett have crafteda modern Australian menu featuring appetisers like pulledpork croquettes, local oysters in mignonette dressing and rawsalmon, wasabi leaf, spring onion, ginger. Starters feature asensational warm quail salad with fennel, currants, pine nutsand almonds, and a chicken liver paté with rhubarb compoteand crusty bread, while stand-out mains include a 200g CapeGrim eye fillet served with three different sauces, and perfectly- September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 17

nzbriefswhat’s happening in the NZ wine sceneEMMA JENKINS MWCELEBRATING SAUVIGNON BLANC MARLBOROUGH MAKES A MOVEOVER 400 guests will soon descend upon Marlborough for the NEW Zealand’s modern wine industry may barely be four decadessecond Sauvignon Blanc Celebration (28-30 January, 2019), old but its flagship region has just drawn a very traditional firm line infollowing on from 2016’s highly successful three-day salute to NZ’s the ground with the launch of Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW).hallmark grape. NZ produces 17 per cent of the world’s sauvignon Intending “to protect the integrity, authenticity and brand value ofblanc, despite accounting for slightly less than 1 per cent of global wines produced in Marlborough wine” AMW will initially be focusedannual wine production. The 2019 celebration intends exploring NZ’s on solely sauvignon blanc, arguably the wine whose reputation mostplace within the wine world, examining topical areas such as climate needs safeguarding. As Marlborough sauvignon blanc’s internationalchange, sustainability and flavour, and asking just what NZ should success has soared, so too has growth of wines made with less-be doing to continue to succeed both domestically and globally. scrupulous quality practices, not to mention bulk wines bottled off-Tastings will include NZ’s various sauvignon blanc producing regions shore, some of which are supplemented by origins and varieties otheralongside global benchmark sauvignon blanc. Local and international than Marlborough and sauvignon blanc. Recognising the long-termwinemakers, wine writers, key gatekeepers and influencers will be in implications of such practices, a pioneering committee developedattendance. Chairman of the International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration AMW and registered its trademark, inviting fellow producers to becomecommittee Patrick Materman says: “Speakers will challenge theories licensed members. AMW chairman Ivan Sutherland, of Dog Point,and perceptions on everything from winemaking secrets to future alongside John Forrest (Forrest Estate) and John Buchanan (Mountproofing and stylistic preferences of Sauvignon Blanc.” Riley) first mooted the idea in 2011, one the wider industry has come to embrace. Sutherland views AMW as a way of “future-proofingHAMMER TIME, AGAIN Marlborough”, establishing clear quality parameters and branding from which both producers and consumers can gain reassurance. WinesTICKETS for the 27th Annual Hawke’s Bay Wine Auction have just bearing the AMW certification must be made from grapes grown 100gone on sale. The country’s oldest and most prestigious wine auction per cent in Marlborough and bottled in NZ. There are cropping levelhas now raised over $NZ3.9 million for The Cranford Hospice, its requirements (though wines outside of this can apply for certificationsole beneficiary, including $NZ202,000 at last year’s auction. On via a panel tasting) and grapes must be from vineyards that are 100November 10, 43 impressive lots will be auctioned, including 41 per cent certified by a recognised sustainable vineyard program. Awine offerings, the result of generous bespoke collaborations non-profit incorporated society, AMW has appointed an external auditorbetween local winemakers, restaurateurs and artists. One of the and will be funded by a member levy as well as sponsorship from amost highly sought-after is that of renowned international designer local contract bottler and charitable wine trust. So far 36 producersand Hawke’s Bay local David Trubridge, who is creating a unique are committed and many more have expressed interest, includingart piece for the auction. Visit www.hawkesbaywineauction.co.nz. some of the region’s largest players. A few 2018 wines will bear the logo, but 2019 will be the first full flush of AMW-certified wines, proudlyNEW OWNER, NEW FOCUS representing an initiative whose time has very much come.FAMILY-owned Wairarapa producer Gladstone Vineyard has been WOMEN BUILDING CAREERSpurchased by Eddie McDougall, founder of The Flying Winemakerand Odyssey Capital Group. Established by Christine Kernohan THE New Zealand Women in Wine initiative is underway, withand her family in 1986, Gladstone expanded from 1000 to 10,000 committees being formed the length and breadth of the country’scases, producing predominately pinot noirs and gris and sauvignon wine regions. The intention is that women working in various fieldsblanc. The new owners plan to increase production further, throughout the industry can network, share information, resourcesfocusing on the Asia Pacific market. Kernohan will stay on as GM and experiences to support and advance their careers. The firstand chief winemaker, alongside key current staff. The purchase is national committee meeting was held in Auckland in February andawaiting New Zealand Overseas Investment Office approval; at the a more recent meeting took place in Hawke’s Bay, where pioneeringtime of press the purchase price had not been disclosed, though winemaker and industry legend Kate Radburnd stated: “WomenGladstone had previously been advertised for NZ3.3m plus stock. need to be part of our industry and we would like to see greater involvement in all parts of it.” A pilot mentoring program wasINVESTMENT TO DRIVE GROWTH launched in nine regions, with Radburnd commenting: “We hope to roll out the initiative much further, it’s very, very exciting.” EconomicINNOVATIVE producer Invivo Wines has recently opened a public statistics show there are 7350 people working in NZ’s wine industry,investment opportunity with the aim of raising $NZ6.5 million to fuel 46 per cent of whom are women. In 2017, 10 of the 35 competitorsfurther growth, with plans to expand its highly successful Graham in the Bayer Young Viticulturist were women, as were three of theNorton wine brand as well as funding a new “celebrity collaboration” four finalists in the 2017 Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemakerin the US. Invivo previously raised $NZ2m via a 2015 crowdfunding of the year (with two female winners in recent years). Lest men beexercise, securing the purchase of its first winery. Since then sales feeling left out, Women in Wine NZ coordinator Nicky Grandorgehave rocketed from $NZ3.7m to a projected $NZ13.9m for the 2018 assures that “Women in Wine NZ is an inclusive initiative, and menfinancial year, achieving a 374 per cent bottle sales increase from are also invited along to events and workshops”. 50,000 bottles in 2015 to more than three million for 2018.18 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

Crafted in Italy for three generations, Luigi Bormioli combines decades of glassmaking experience with the latest technology.High breakage Dishwasher safe for over Ultra clear resistance 2,000 industrial cycles transparent glass www.bormioliluigi.com @luigibormioli #luigibormioli September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 19

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWGENE THERAPY FOR A SUSTAINABLE FUTURETHE south of France is not solely about aroma and freshly-balanced. Just-bottled cent of the global vineyard (12 out of 1100warm, Mediterranean sunshine and largely artaban showed juicy red fruits and modesty grape varieties grown). And those 12 grapehappy grape-growing conditions. One of the of tannin. Both wines had been vinified in a varieties aren’t necessarily the best-adapted,country’s key research institutes - French simple, basic, process. In essence, both climatically, to hotter and drier conditions.National Institute for Agricultural Research were primary fruit tasty. But they are the ones consumers currently(INRA) - has a centre in the Languedoc. For like to drink. Can we be persuaded to drinkthe past 40 years researchers have been Somewhere in the many layers of this other wines?working on creating grape varieties that are research, Hernan Ojeda, director of theadapted to fungal diseases, notably downy INRA site at Pech Rouge, in the Languedoc, When it comes to changing the mix ofand powdery mildew, and to climate change. said that they have found a pool of genes grape varieties in a vineyard, the new worldThis is a huge issue for France, as about that prevent the grapes from producing has considerably more flexibility than the old.20 per cent of crop protection products are excessive levels of sugar, even when the Southern Mediterranean grape varieties, wellused on vines, but vines cover only 3 per grapes are fully ripe and late harvested. adapted to hot, dry (unirrigated) summers,cent of the country’s agricultural land. such as tempranillo (Spain, Portugal), These new grape primitivo (zinfandel), nero d’avola (both Reducing the amount of pesticides used southern Italy) and vermentino (Sardinia,would greatly improve environmental varieties have more Italy) are already being planted in smallsustainability in the wine industry. Traditional quantities in Australia.breeding of new grape varieties for specific than one gene thattraits, in this case resistance to powdery But in the old world, grape varieties areand downy mildew, is the one that takes offers resistance to prescribed into appellation regulations, so thedecades. Researcher Alain Bouquet started only way to change the grape varieties is tothis work in the 1970s, breeding single- the fungal diseases, amend the appellation laws. It can be done,gene resistance into Vitis vinifera grape but it takes time. Added to which, Europeanvarieties using American and Asiatic vines. which means greater appellation is generally associated with aThe research took on added impetus, and typically identifiable flavour range … basedresearch partners, in the new millennium, resistance overall. on location, for sure, but also, inextricably,and earlier this year INRA classified grape based on the grape varieties grown in thevarieties resistant to fungal diseases. These They are researching why this is; the appellation/location. Changing the grapenew grape varieties have more than one resulting wines have alcohol levels of around varieties grown is likely to fundamentallygene that offers resistance to the fungal 9.5 to 11.5 per cent. This could be something change the appellation flavour profile.diseases, which means greater resistance very useful to build in to new grape varietiesoverall. It also means that the frequency of if wines with lower alcohol levels continue to In Bordeaux, for example, the climatefungicide use on them can be reduced by be in demand from consumers. is predicted to become like that currentlyup to 96 per cent. experienced in Portugal’s Douro valley. Another Languedoc branch of INRA, at Already Bordeaux has heated by nearly 1C More than 30 grape varieties are scheduled Montpellier, has been working on climate since 1980 and grapes are being harvestedto be commercialised between 2018 and change from another angle -looking at nearly three weeks earlier than 30 years2025. The first tranche of new grape varieties existing grape varieties and their existing ago. More than a decade ago a projectincludes artaban (red) and floreal (white). If adaptation to climate. In conjunction with was started to explore possible new grapesuch grape varieties are taken up, they other French and US researchers, and varieties that might be suitable for a warmingcould significantly improve sustainability using an Australian-published global grape Bordeaux. Just outside the city of Bordeauxvalues. Consumers need to like their flavour. variety plantings database, they found that an experimental plot was planted with 52To this author a one-wine, first-harvest, the global wine industry uses only 1 per different grape varieties, including the currenttasting showed floreal to be light with honey cent of available grape varieties on 45 per suite of Bordeaux grape varieties, which act as a control. The other grape varieties in the20 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

plot originate from Languedoc, Spain, Italy,Greece, Portugal, Bulgaria and Georgia. Kees van Leeuwen, professor of viticultureand head of the viticulture-oenologydepartment at Bordeaux Sciences Agro (partof Bordeaux University’s Institut des Sciencesde la Vigne et du Vin), thinks that, on currentclimate projections, merlot will no longer besuited to Bordeaux by 2050. Roughly 60 percent of the Bordeaux vineyard is planted tomerlot, so it is important to find something in itsstead. One of the hopes for the experimentalplot is to find later ripening grape varietiesthat offer a similar flavour profile and style tothe current Bordeaux profile. It’s probably toBordeaux’ favour that it is a blended wine. For white bordeaux, like merlot, sauvignonblanc is also relatively early ripening, soruns similar risks. Colombard is a possiblealternative: also a high acid grape variety, butrelatively later ripening. While the strict current interpretation (andlegal parameters) of appellation in the oldworld will inevitably need to change in the faceof climate change, the wine industry is wellblessed with a huge diversity of (currently)little-known grape varieties, importantly manyof which are of very high quality. That winegrapes are the world’s most valuable cropmeans the incentive to invest in somethingnew is likely to be tried. Over the next 10 to 20years expect to start seeing more wines beingmade from heat and drought-tolerant varietiessuch as xinomavro (said to be Greece’sanswer to nebbiolo), assyrtiko (a Greek white,with steely, mineral profile and retained acidityin hot conditions), touriga franca (Portugueseheat tolerant red that doesn’t produce toomuch sugar; it is the structural pillar of redDouro blends) and touriga nacional (richlycoloured and tannic grape that keeps acidityeven when ripening in the heat) to speculateon just a few others not already mentioned. September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYCHAMPAGNE’S ROLLER COASTER RIDECHAMPAGNE is undoubtedly the world’s making a wine “sparkling” while presenting poet Alan Seeger. If you are unfamiliar withbest wine story. No other region can claim a paper to the Royal Society. the words I’d recommend finding it andto have been embroiled in world events reading it. Seeger never got out of Franceor to have developed intricate technology Dom Perignon, that famous monk at the as he was killed in action during the Battleover countless decades to perfect a Abby of Hautvillers, did not discover the of the Somme in 1916.wine from grapes that grow in the most art of making a wine sparkling, but treateddemanding conditions. It is also a wine it like a wine fault and used whisks to get The centre of champagne is around thethat is so closely married to its terroir that rid of the bubbles. However, he did perfect towns of Epernay and Reims, and theno other country can replicate it. the art of blending the grapes and made a surrounding three areas of Cote de Blancs, white wine out of black grapes by pressing the Montagne de Reims and Vallee de la Patrick Forbes’ 1967 seminal work on the the juice gently with the use of a shallow Marne. Here you find the famous Belemniteregion makes the point that champagne is press that is still used to this day. and Micraster chalk sub-soils which thean art not a science. He pays due testament Romans mined and created the deepto the artistic skills of the winemaker, yet he The future for cellars that maintain the perfect all yeargoes on to say that the most remarkable round cool temperature (10C) so perfect tothing about the methode champenoise champagne will again be mature champagne. The cellars were usedprocess is the “exceptional extent to which as shelter for civilians in both world wars.it enables man to manipulate grape-juice”. an exciting ride as the The names of the soils are derived from theIt has literally taken many centuries of trial fossils that make up the chalk - belemniteand error to perfect the process, and from region faces the effects is named after an extinct relative of thethis deep and fascinating history, many cuttlefish, while micraster is called after amyths have grown up about champagne. of global warming and sea urchin. More importantly, these soilsI’d like to share a few of those tales, as well grow grapes that are high in acidity withas expose one or two dirty little secrets. the possible decline of low aromatics, perfect attributes for making sparkling wines. Champagne, up until the 17th century, markets such as the UK.was a still wine. Up until the 1830s, 90 per The region stretches a further 110km southcent of champagne production was red The history of champagne during World of Epernay, down to the little talked aboutwine. The first sparkling wine in France War I is astonishing and moving. In 1914 the area of Cote des Bar (or the Aube). Herewas made by the monks of St Hilaire in UK’s Financial Times reported with “interest the sub-soil changes and is comprised ofsouthern France around the town of Limoux. and great encouragement” that even the limestone known as kimmeridgian marl, theThe Blanquette de Limoux is a wine made war that was then beginning could not same as Chablis, Sancerre and Dover infrom the rural or ancestral method which damage the champagne industry. Business southern England. The Aube is seen as aundergoes only one alcoholic fermentation. did go on during the protracted war that poor cousin to the rest of Champagne butThere is also recorded proof that in London engulfed the region for four years, but over in the Middle Ages it was more renownedsugar and molasses were added to wine to 20 children were killed while harvesting the for still wine than its more famous relativesimprove the “character” and to render them grapes in that first year of hostilities. The to the north. The region shares moresparkling, which would make the English sad irony of such a setting for mass death affinity with Chablis, 80km to the south andthe nation who made the first secondary and destruction is poignantly the theme of produces heavier wines.fermented sparkling wine. It was the English a classic poem Champagne, by Americanphysician and scientist Christopher Merret The production of rosé champagne is alsoin 1662 who mentioned the practise of a little untold story. While some producers make their wines by the normal saignee22 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

method, others, and possibly the majority, We have to washsimply add a still red wine to their base over 32,000cuvee to stain the wine a pink colour and wine glassesthen ferment it in bottle. each year ... The 21st century in Champagne has so you don’t have to.already seen many changes. Mechanisationof the traditional process has seen a bottle Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guideof champagne that once went through phone +61 8 8357 9277 or300 hands now handled only 45 times.There has been an increasing trend for on-line www.winestate.com.augrowers to produce their own wines.These Growers Champagnes are smallindependent companies that often owntheir own vineyards and choose not to sellto the major champagne houses or co-operatives that traditionally run the market.There is also a strong movement towardsorganically made wines, which is a reversalof what occurred last century, and a dirtylittle secret. From the 1960s up until themid-’80s, some Champagne vineyardswere fertilised with minced decomposedcity refuge from Paris and other towns.Reporters from that time comment on thesmell and tiny blue fragments of plasticbags on the vineyards that would notdecompose. This sludge from the city wasknown in French as boues de ville. The future for champagne will again be anexciting ride as the region faces the effectsof global warming and the possible declineof markets such as the UK. It was reportedlast year that the effects of Brexit has seen adecline of 17 per cent in volume. The rise ofprosecco has hit the Champenoise as wellas the expansion of the English sparklingwine industry, which is benefitting from theflip side of global warming. September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 23

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING PUTTING ON THE BAIR-RITZTWO things made me visit Biarritz again. the Villa Eugenie, on a commanding bluff which sells traditional espadrilles made inAt the tail end of last year, the US-based and royal visitors such as Queen Victoria its 125-year-old factory in Mauleon, whichWine Enthusiast magazine named South and Russian grand dukes came in droves. are just the thing for elegant strolling forWest France as its 2017 Wine Region of both sexes.the Year. Then Chanel launched a breezy The Belle Epoque grandeur of Biarritznew fragrance named after the swish continued to attract the wealthy and If you have a major royalty-for-the-dayseaside resort, where the legendary fashionable well into the 20th century. complex, the place to stay is the Hotel dudesigner opened her first couture house Ernest Hemingway entrenched the Palais built on the site of the Villa Eugenieand triggered the fashion for acquiring a resort as a stamping ground for the Lost which burned down in 1903. Overlookingsummer tan. Generation in the mid-1920s. Screenwriter the Grand Plage, a pool and solarium Peter Viertel, the husband of movie legend were added this European summer, but Bordered by Bordeaux, Toulouse and Deborah Kerr, set Biarritz on the path to historic charm remains the main drawcardBiarritz, South West France is the fourth in the hotel’s two gourmet restaurants -largest French wine region by volume. Bars or restaurants with L’Imperatrice and Villa Eugenie, of course.As every sommelier knows, high qualitybottlings at reasonable prices await an ocean view are one of To be honest, eating, drinking and surfingwinelovers who drive the designated wine are the main activities of Biarritz, but setroute through the lush, hilly countryside. the unforgettable lures aside a day to get your bearings. TheWhites from Cotes de Gascogne and Place Georges Clemenceau lies at theIrouleguy, full-bodied reds from Cahors of Biarritz. centre of town, but the best view is fromand Coteaux de Quercy and rosés from the Plateau de L’Atalaye, perched aboveFronton are just a few of the offerings at the becoming the surf capital of Europe in the the old port, which offers a panoramic viewmany wineries and cellar doors along the 1950s during the filming of Hemingway’s of the Atlantic coastline. The only culturaltrail that boasts 29 Appellation d’Origine novel, The Sun Also Rises. And this mix activity that ranks as a must-do is a visit toProtegee (AOPs). of old world charm and a laidback beach the Musee Historique de Biarritz, housed vibe keeps Parisians, surfers and overseas in a deconsecrated Anglican church. If My advice is to begin in Bordeaux to visitors packing into the bars, restaurants only for a crash course on why the namesindulge your bucket list fantasies when and cafes of Biarritz every year. of Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie arevisiting the Sud-Ouest wine region, as its still splattered all over Biarritz.known locally, and spend at least five days in My first stop is always Les HallesBiarritz. Like St Tropez, the resort was once Centrales. Opened in 1885, the covered As befits a vacation town Biarritz sproutsa small fishing port. Less than 36km from market is very gourmet-oriented these wine bars like mushrooms. L’Artnoa isthe border with Spain, its golden beaches days. From the Basque tapas bar, Les where you will find a selection of some ofattracted the attention of Emperor Napoleon Contrabandiers, to Bayonne hams from the best wines of the South West. Basically,III and his Spanish wife, Eugenie de Montijo, Boucherie Didier. Then it’s off to Jox & An, a wine shop with a tapas tasting menu,in 1854. The couple built a summer home, there’s a new line-up of wines on offer every week. Le Cellier des Docks is another wine24 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

shop that showcases the naturally-made At Bar Tapas Le Corsaire, also in the Port T EWINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTINGwines of the region. Le Bar de la Cote has des Pecheurs, the freshness of the shellfisha full frontal view of the Cote des Basques pulls in everyone from backpackers to HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIEcoastline and rates highly as the perfect senior execs on vacation.venue for a sunset wine tasting. 95 95 95 There are over 60 restaurants in Biarritz In fact, bars or restaurants with an ocean with Michelin accreditations of some sort. POINTS POINTS POINTSview are one of the unforgettable lures of But if you have stars in mind and want themBiarritz. Le Surfing may sound like a casual on your plate, Le Clos Basque delivershangout for the thong-wearing crowd, but local flavours and ingredients transformedthe reality is a super-stylish venue with huge through the most modern interpretations.windows that are open to sea breezes for Restaurant L’Impertinent, run by Germanbreakfast, lunch and dinner, and terrific chef Fabian Feldmann, should be a shoo-Asian and Basque-inspired menu listings. in for the Netflix series, Chef’s Table. LocalArena Biarritz specialises in cocktails and ingredients elevated to an art form arehas a vast terrace overlooking Port Vieux, the order of every day, backed by superbbut there’s a shaded area if the sun becomes service and a sleek decor. The menutoo fierce. Close by and also famous for its changes constantly.expertly-made cocktails is Les Baigneusesde Biarritz. Trendy and very busy, it’s For my final night in Biarritz, I slipped onmandatory to pre-book during summer. my new espadrilles and spritzed on Chanel Biarritz, a fresh, vivacious scent with a Seafood is hard to avoid in Biarritz, but citrus opening, a lily of the valley “heart”some places obviously deliver the goods and musk and a patchouli drydown. “Whatbetter than their many competitors. Chez perfume are you wearing?” asked theAlbert may be a big restaurant, but the waiter who escorted us to our seats at thewaiters are very friendly and the signature Cafe de la Grande Plage and smiled whenseafood platter groans with oysters, lobster, I told him the name. Yes, the terrace is onlangoustines and more. But for a true the beach level of the casino, but a plate of“regular customer” experience even when local oysters washed down by Cremant deyou aren’t, head for Crampotte 30 in the Limoux, a local sparkling wine that claimsPort des Pecheurs. It’s tiny and they will to pre-date champagne, was worth everygive you a straw hat if you have left yours cent even when you haven’t scored big atin the hotel or a blanket if the Atlantic winds the gaming tables. are too cool. Beer is the drink of choice hereto wash down the authentic Basque tapas. September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 25 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_2F7/A0.4in/2d0d151 2:34 pm

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELLAST THOUGHTS ON WINE ETIQUETTEIT has been fascinating to reflect on the have a sherry)”. Sherry is wonderful chilled, presumably a bloke should provide thesetopics I’ve written for Winestate over served either straight or “on the rocks”. And ladies with instructions beforehand on thethe last 20 years or so. My first thoughts it “adds flavour to food, too”. amount of wine to be given each guest.were to write several small pieces on avariety of topics such as the founding Furthermore, sherry was inexpensive. Guidelines on what and how much to pourwinegrowers in 19th century Australia and “Happily, we can find, in this rather expensive included the advice to have a tasting of tablevine nomenclature. But I decided to write world, a few delightful things which can be wines only, when half a bottle per person wason one topic only - the campaign around enjoyed for the price of a few pence. Like recommended. Presumably the men couldn’t1970 to drink more Aussie wine. sherry, for instance.” All worthy sentiments, be trusted not to pour too much. The ladies, except for the advice that sherry “improves “and they alone, (should) handle the bottles Between 1962 and 1970 sales of table in bottle and in cask” for five years. and pour the wine”. Significantly, “guestswines in Australia almost doubled from should not help themselves”. After all, the3,848,000 to 7,408,000 gallons, and red Party spirit should taster’s sobriety should not be impaired:wine sales increased 150 per cent. In “party spirit should not be allowed toaddition to publications, the other main not be allowed to dominate the evening to the inconveniencereasons were promotion and education of those who genuinely wish to study thethrough advertising and tastings, and dominate the evening wines and further their knowledge of them”.advancements in winemaking methodswhich improved wine quality. to the inconvenience Australian wines were “friendly to food”. Because the heat in cooking evaporates The proliferation of wine words for the of those who genuinely the alcohol, it was acceptable to cook withgeneral public, as opposed to grape wine for the kids. Barbecues were especiallygrowers and winemakers, has taken off in wish to study the appropriate occasions for wine drinking:Australia only in the last 50 years. “wine makes a barbecue glamorous - so wines and further their simply! Entertaining is wonderful fun when One organisation whose role in promoting you make it casual, minus fuss - glamorous,Australian wine in Australia and overseas knowledge of them. too, when you add wine. Claret is the lilting,was the Australian Wine Board (AWB). Its light red wine (but, so inexpensive) thatcollections of press cuttings and advertising Women were especially targeted, with makes a magical success of barbecues”.leaflets powerfully illustrate its 1970s advertisements appearing in women’spromotional campaign with its catch-cry magazines or in columns addressed to A pamphlet, How to start a wine cellar, gave“Life is more pleasant with wine”. women. Many of the ads and booklets advice on what wine to serve with what food. reflected the blatantly sexist and blokey Burgundy or claret should not accompany Fortified wines and brandy as well as table attitude to drinking wine which was fish “because of its content of tannin, whichwines were promoted. Sherry was often ubiquitous at the time. None exemplifies in combination with fish is liable to result infeatured, and attracted some particularly this more than an undated pamphlet indigestion”. This conflicts with advice givenlyrical and alliterative language from the published by the AWB on planning a wine in 1957 advertisements, which after observingcopywriters. “A refreshing glass of sherry tasting. It was the women’s job to provide that you will get a “happy surprise” when youhas a way of dissolving the day’s difficulties the food, preferably “fork dishes”, but “not a first taste white wine with fish, suggestedin a magic moment of rest before dinner. hot curry”. The only place for women in the you have “red wine if you prefer it”. ForSherry soothes while it stimulates, relaxes male-dominated world of wine tasting was as many years this was a recurring theme in theyet releases new energy. It’s a perfect ’tween wine pourers. “In the best-conducted wine advertisements: “there are no musts aboutmeals pick-you-up, too”. (I’ve just had one tastings, it is advisable for the organisers to wine - the right wine is the one you like”.and I agree.) How could anyone not be co-opt the services of a few ladies (wivesallured into rushing out and buying some of committeemen, for instance) to pour the This seems an appropriate sentiment onfrom “your grocer, department store or hotel wines. Someone with previous experience”, which to end this wine history column. Ibottle department”? “Sherry is your start of congratulate Peter Simic for initiating such acompanionship”. It was just the wine to serve column and I hope you have enjoyed reading“when he gets home. (What a day! Let’s it as much as I have enjoyed writing it! 26 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

2 DAY KANGAROO ISLANDFind a surprise around every pcorner on this exciting two-daytour from Adelaide to KangarooIsland.Visit an array of the best KangarooIsland boutique producers for authenticallydelicious food, drink and tasting experiences.Delight in a visit to the award winning DudleyWines Cellar Door, Island Beehive, Island PureSheep Dairy, KI Spirits, Flinders Chase NationalPark for sunset drinks at Remarkable Rocks,Kelly Hill Caves, Raptor Domain, Sunset Foodand Wine and much more!This tour includes CBD hotel pick ups inAdelaide, return coach and ferry and overnightaccommodation with dinner and breakfast atthe Kangaroo Island Wilderness Retreat.*Valid for new, direct bookings only for travel to 31/3/19. Tourdeparts Mon, Wed & Fri. Quote Promo Code WINESTATE20.Call 13 13 01 or visit sealink.com.au/winestate

South Australia’s Kangaroo Island continues to build its reputation as a fine fare destination.DAN TRAUCKILAST year Winestate conducted its first is costly to truck goods to and from the because although the Island Estate vineyardcomprehensive regional tasting of the mainland on the ferry). While they also is set among the beautiful rolling hills in thewines from Kangaroo Island (KI). The have a fair challenge with crows and other middle of the island, it is an impractical placeresulting awards rate (three-stars plus) was birds, they have the additional challenge to locate a cellar door, due to the long driveexcellent for such a small wine growing of the island’s plentiful possums, which are to get there, as well as the “driveway” fromregion. The Winestate judging results quite the grape connoisseurs. the turn-off to the property to the winery beingwere then adopted as the official results 2kms in length. The cellar door at Cygnetfor the 2017 Kangaroo Island Wine of the Over the course of the last year, a River has made it viable for visitors to drop inYear Awards, which was won by Kangaroo considerable number of things have occurred and try the superb wines and enjoy a platterIsland Trading Company’s 2015 Shiraz. on KI which not only have had the effect of of local produce to go with their tasting. TheThis year’s winner being the wonderful improving the island’s wine experience, but island’s existing brewery - KI Brewery - isFalse Cape The Captain Kangaroo Island also the tourism experience. powering along and now serves IslanderCabernet Sauvignon 2015 by winemaker Estate wines, and also has a number ofGreg Follett of Lake Breeze fame. The The renowned Islander Estate winery food trucks on weekends to make the wholejudges’ said the cabernet class was more owned by Jacques Lurton (a member of the experience more vibrant and dynamic.Bordeaux in style than Australian - with Lurton family of Bordeaux, which has beenlots of potential! making wine since before Australia was The beautifully designed Dudley Wines discovered) and Yale Norris, opened a cellar cellar door, just east of Penneshaw (where the KI has a pristine natural environment, door in the Cygnet River region. It is just down ferry arrives) with its stunning ocean views,with the climate being cooled by the the road from the Island Pure Dairy, which won the 2017 South Australia Tourism Awardregular sea breezes, giving the wines a is about to open its own brewery - Island for “Best Cellar Door Tourism Experience”.cooler, regional feel. The main challenges Pure Brewery - all of which is conveniently When you think of some of the great cellarfaced by KI wine growers are isolation (it not very far from the airport. The site for doors there are in some of the better known the Islander Estate cellar door was chosen28 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

SOUTHERNSPLENDOUR

KI is at long last beginning to evolve wine regions such as the Barossa and Claretowards being a first-class wine and tourism Valleys, this is one heck of an achievement.destination, with the potential to attractoverseas visitors. As interest in island wines continue to develop, some mainland wineries are lookingPrevious pages: to add a KI wine to their portfolio. McLarenPage 32, left to right top to bottom: Remarkable Rocks at sunset, sealion pup, vineyards overlooking the Vale’s Maxwell Wines is buying island grapessea, vineyards at Chapman River at sunset. to produce an elegantly packaged and utterlyPage 33, left to right top to bottom: Admirals Arch, Kangaroo Island grapes, cellar door dining. delicious 2015 Kangaroo Island Shiraz, whichThese pages top to bottom, left to right: Amidst the vines, barrel tasting the red, winter sunrise on a has recently been added to its portfolio.Kangaroo Island beach, wine from False Cape, Southern Rock Lobsters, cutting sheep cheese, sun-driedpelican, Kangaroo Island Distillery (KIS) tasting spirits, kangaroo in the field. The latest development is that Joch Bosworth, from Battle of Bosworth, (McLaren Vale) is planning to launch a new KI range of wines soon, with the grapes being organically grown in a vineyard on the northern side of the island. Great food venues have up until recently not been much of a feature on KI, with only Sunset Food & Wine providing any real culinary delight. However, things started moving in a positive direction when Adelaide wine identity Caj Amadio opened Amadio’s30 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

Wine Bar in Kingscote, which serves quality service from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw and overseas visitors as well as interstate andtapas-style food to complement the wines American River. To overcome not being able Adelaide travellers, thereby spreading thethey are pouring. to carry cars onboard, the operators will have word on South Australian wines to the world. 25 hire cars available on the island for rent. At the time of writing, the finishing touches On the mainland side a bus service to Cape The island’s cellar door experience is in theare being applied to the $18 million upgrade Jervis will cater for Adelaide visitors. It is process of being further upgraded thanksto Kangaroo Island’s airport. This significant planned the trip to the island will take around to the South Australian Government’s Cellarupgrade means that the airport is now able to 35 minutes and cost around $25 each way. Door Grants Program, which is contributinghandle 737 aircraft, allowing for direct flights $113,000 towards these projects: Islandfrom Melbourne as well as more people per Work on the planned Pelican Lagoon Golf Estate will upgrade its cellar door facilitiesflight from Adelaide. These direct flights Course has not commenced as there are local for public wine tastings seven days a week;are expected to mainly carry Asian tourists, concerns in relation to access which have yet Battle of Bosworth Wines is going to buildmore specifically Chinese tourists, who are to be resolved. Likewise, the American River a new cellar door with scenic views of KI’sbecoming increasingly attracted by KI’s Resort project has yet to “jump out of the Nepean Bay; Dudley Wines will develop anclean-and-green image. As more Chinese starting blocks”. But one development project outdoor adventure area.visit Australia each year, the numbers that is racing along is the Emu Bay House andheading to KI will rise rapidly. Land project, which at the time of writing has As KI becomes more popular to tourists 22 of the 78 blocks prepared. over the next few years, it will, I am sure, In a move that will be ideal for younger interest/entice more winemakers to plantholiday makers and wine explorers, there What has all this got to do with wine? It vines in this little piece of paradise, whileis also a new ferry service about to start shows that KI is at long last beginning to at the same time increase the interest in KIoperating to the island. KI Connect plans evolve towards being a first-class wine and wines on the mainland. to run a big catamaran passenger-only tourism destination, with the potential to attract September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 31

32 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

OUT OF THESHADOWSFOR SO LONG IN A BACK-UP ROLE TO CABERNET SAUVIGNON,SHIRAZ ELBOWED ITS WAY ON TO THE WORLD WINE STAGEIN THE 1980S.DAN TRAUCKITHE name “shiraz” has only really been As shiraz was shooting towards globalused widely for about 40 years. “What fame, the Australian wine industry, innonsense,” I hear you say. But until the late my opinion, missed out on the greatest1970s most Australian wines made with marketing opportunity. Had the industryshiraz grapes were labelled “hermitage” had the foresight to trade mark the wordor “burgundy” with very few having “shiraz” “shiraz” while nobody else was using it,written on the label. The rest of the world Australia could have had it exclusively.called it syrah. By now drinkers all around the world would only be using the word “shiraz” There are still some arguments as to in relation to syrah grown in Australia,where the variety originated from. Was it just like champagne and bordeaux arefrom the Persian town (now Iran) of Shiraz? used. What a coup that would haveOr was it from Hermitage in the Rhone, as been. Instead, today you can findclaimed by the French? Or perhaps it is the wines labelled shiraz from Chile, Spain,syriaca variety that Pliny the Elder wrote southern France, etc. Such a shame.about over 20 centuries ago. Forty yearsago in Australia, shiraz was considered as While not exactly “terroirists”, the gooda lesser variety than the majestic cabernet folk in McLaren Vale have been pushingsauvignon, as many wineries aspired to hard to establish their region as a uniqueproduce a cabernet-based, “bordeaux- shiraz-growing environment. They havelike” wine. succeeded to the extent that McLaren Vale is today recognised as a world- In the mid to latter 1980s, shiraz was renowned and highly regarded winepromoted from being a “workhorse” variety growing region, especially for shiraz.into being Australia’s flagship wine varietycapable of matching/beating syrah from the At the annual Wirra Wirra Ringing of therest of the world. This promotion was mainly Bell (which officially launches McLarenas a result of the British and Americans Vale’s vintage), the geological projectdiscovering the quality of Penfolds Grange. committee conducted the McLaren ValeThey then began searching for other Districts Tasting Tutorial at which thepremium Australian shiraz and found attendees learned about the region’splenty. The result was that in just a few years current and ongoing research project intoshiraz went from almost being “a zero” to the “geology of the McLaren Vale region”.being “the hero”. Australia can now claimto be the spiritual home of shiraz, in the Over time the project group has, insame way Argentina claims malbec and conjunction with geologists, dug fiveChile carmenere. geology pits across the region as well as drawing up geological profiles of the September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 33

SHIRAZ WAS PROMOTED FROMBEING A “WORKHORSE” VARIETY INTO BEINGAUSTRALIA’S FLAGSHIP WINE VARIETY CAPABLEOF MATCHING/BEATING SYRAH FROM THE RESTOF THE WORLD. region. These have been divided (so far) into 19 different proposed sub-districts/ structures which have been classified as “distinct districts”. A look at this map shows that the same distinct profiles can and do appear in more than one area within the McLaren Vale region, mainly as a result of countless millennia of geological upheaval. These distinct districts take into account not only the geology, but also the effects of topography, elevation and the impact of the micro-climate. The group claims “McLaren Vale is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world. More than 40 unique geological units are present, ranging in age from less than 10,000 years to over 650 million years”. The main purpose of the tutorial was the District Tasting. The panel explained that for this exercise they had sought 2017 vintage shiraz samples from as many producers as possible within each of 15 out of the 19 distinct districts that they had identified on the draft geological map of the region. The samples from within each district were evaluated by a panel of winemakers and viticulturists, who judged these samples blind. Other than the rejected “out of left field” samples (too green or oaky, etc) the rest of the wines were blended together34 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

to create a final “district sample”. They that even though it is early days in a of these are made up of varying micro-had very few rejects. From the blended long-term project, it should start making climates, soils and landscapes which aresamples they picked the five districts “mud maps” based on the data of the deemed to exhibit different and compellingthat the judging panel deemed to be the local geology and make them available expressions of shiraz.most “uniquely expressive”, to use for at cellar doors for visitors use, sothe tutorial. that drinkers can (over time) come to The style of shiraz from each of the appreciate the subtle differences that Grounds is described as: Southern Grounds Therefore, the five sample wines we the geology and micro-climate of each - Medium to full-bodied, generous, lush,tasted were each a representational sub-region has on the style and flavour of elegant and refreshing; Central Groundssample of the shiraz made in the one the final wines. This is somewhat similar, - Medium to full-bodied, generous andspecific geological district. but completely different, to the way in vibrant; Northern Grounds - Full-bodied, which Burgundy is subdivided into small opulent, concentrated and rich. The outcome of this fascinating exercise parcels/areas with similar flavours.was that there was an appreciable These two approaches, although verydifference in the flavours and characters The Barossa Valley has also different, are both serious, long-termof the different wines from the five independently undertaken a study of regional initiatives, to better understanddifferent districts, with District 10 having its own - The Barossa Grounds Project. how the flavour profiles of their shirazthe fullest body and greater structure, Started in 2008 with the aim of evaluating is impacted upon by the various localwhereas District 17 had the lightest and the wine styles across the region, the factors that make their region unique.brightest of the wines. Each sample was “Grounds” are an unofficial but locallyan excellent wine in its own right, but they recognised locality observed through the While there are no concrete conclusionshad different flavour profiles. micro-climate, soil composition, geology so far, it is the efforts of both McLaren and individual vineyard site. As with Vale and the Barossa regions that will What does this all mean? The aim is the McLaren Vale project, the Barossa keep them ahead of the pack and firmlyto over time identify and define sub- project has been all inclusive, with “front of mind”, in the wine world’s focusregional characteristics. So that in turn active involvement from soil scientists, on shiraz/syrah. After all these twothe producers are able to better work with viticulturists and winemakers. regions are literally “digging up the dirtboth the grapes and the wines that each on shiraz”. district produce, and educate consumers Because the geology isn’t as complicatedas to the differences between the sub- as that of the Vales, the Barossa Groundsregions. In other words, this is a serious Project proposes three defined localitieseffort to understand the impact that the within the Barossa Valley GI. These aregeology of the district has on the flavour defined as Southern Grounds, Centraland wine style of the local shiraz. Grounds and Northern Grounds. Each It has been suggested to the committee September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 35

• ADELAIDE (Australia) SOUTH AUSTRALIA is part of the prestigious Great Wine Capitals Global Network, a group of major global cities which• BILBAO / RIOJA (Spain) share a key economic and cultural asset – an internationally renowned wine region. Membership to the network acknowledges excellence in• BORDEAUX (France) grape and wine production, a commitment to research and development, education and wine tourism services, and the way in which the wine industry is inextricably linked to the city’s• MAINZ / RHEINHESSEN character, success and vision. (Germany) The network is genuinely collaborative, aiming to heighten the wine experience for everyone who visits its regions and cities, and• MENDOZA (Argentina) to support network members to make the most of their extraordinary culture, heritage and geographical virtue. Membership significantly lifts the bar for Adelaide and South Australia in terms of international profile, because the Great Wine Capitals Global Network is synonymous with food and wine experiences.36 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

To build the reputation of Adelaide as a Great Wine Capital, the • PORTO (Portugal)state will host the Great Wine Capitals Annual General Meeting • NSAANPAFRVAANLLCEISYC(OUS/A) and industry conference from 3 to 9 November 2018, themed • (C VCAAhiSLleAP)ABRLAANÌSCOA/ V A LL EY ‘new world, old world, our world’, and bringing global leaders from • VERONA (Italy)across food, wine and tourism into the state’s regions. • LAUSANNE (Switzerland) The AGM delegates will learn more about South Australia’s To register for the Adelaide Great Wine Capitals AGM, visit:wine industry and collaborate and build networks not only withSouth Australia, but also between the international Great Wine www.adelaidegreatwinecapital.com/agm.Capital cities. The AGM program will include visits to highly acclaimedwine regions including Adelaide Hills, Barossa, Coonawarra,Langhorne Creek and McLaren Vale, as well as other experiencessuch as tours of Adelaide Oval and a dinner at Tandanya. The network’s other members are Bilbao / Rioja (Spain),Bordeaux (France), Mainz / Rheinhessen (Germany), Mendoza(Argentina), Porto (Portugal), San Francisco / Napa Valley(USA), Valparaìso / Casablanca Valley (Chile), Verona (Italy) andLausanne (Switzerland). September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 37

Australia & New Zealand Tasting Express and Wine Display - Vinitaly Veronafiere, Verona April 15 -18, 20182018 ROUNDUPIn April this year, Winestate Magazine, as VINITALY 2018 STATISTICS: THE WINES DISPLAYED WERE:the Australian media sponsor of Vinitaly Fishbone Premium Margaret River(the world’s largest wine expo) conducted • Over 92,000 square meters of displays Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2017the Australia display of selected premiumwines as well as a guided tasting of a with 4400 producers featuring over 30,000 Fishbone Premium Margaret Rivernumber of boutique wines to professional individual wines. Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2015and enthusiast groups during Vinitaly. • 15 display halls plus external displays of Gatt High Eden Riesling 2010 Vinitaly and the wines from Australia wereextensively promoted by both Winestate wine equipment, foods, beer and olive oil. Gatt Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008Magazine (print, digital and website) as wellas Vinitaly itself in the lead up to, and during • 4,400 exhibitors (Winestate again was Lannister Clare Valley Riesling 2017Vinitaly. The Australian event was featured inonline promotions, as well as the hard copy the ONLY Australian display at the event). Lannister McLaren Vale CCM (Cabernetcatalogue and CD ROM distributed to tens of Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec)thousands of media and professional visitors. • Over 150,000+ registered guests - the 2012 Winestate was provided with web pages 2018 numbers reported as being a similar Montara Grampians Riesling 2017on the Vinitaly.com web page in both Italian number to previous years.as well as English that included a menu for Montara Grampians Cabernet Sauvignonthe Tasting Express Masterclass. TASTING EXPRESS 2015 MASTERCLASS AT VINITALY In addition, the March/April 2018 issue Lindsay Wine Estate Barossa Valleyof Winestate featured the wines on display The Australian Tasting Express program, Shiraz 2014with a series of display advertising from now in its 10th year was titled – Boutiquethe participating wineries. This magazine Wines of Australia - It was the only event from Lindsay Wine Estate Barossa Valleywas distributed to guests who tasted the Australia or New Zealand. Summit Shiraz 2015wines, along with it being sent to localItalian importers. The magazine was The tasting featured 8 wines with Organic Hill South Australia Shiraz 2017also distributed to the newsstands at the winemakers introducing their wines to theVeronafiere complex. audience. The tasting was professionally Haselgrove First Cut McLaren Vale run by the Vinitaly staff and professional Shiraz 2016 sommeliers from the Associazione Italiana Sommeliers. Vinitaly also supplied Italian Totino Estate Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2016 speaking staff to assist with translation during the presentation. Guests were Angas & Bremer Langhorne Creek charged 20 Euro (by Vinitaly). Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsula Shiraz 2014 Boat O’Craigo Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016

The tasting went for 90 minutes in English The wines represented on the Winestate Vinitaly 2019with Italian translation. There were 50 paying displays were well received with commentsguests. They were from countries as diverse such as “amazing”, “unlike anything from April 7-10as Italy, Russia, Belarus, Poland, Germany, Italy or France”, “I did not realise thatFinland, Sweden, Japan, Korea, Norway, Australia made wines of this quality” and most Enquiries: [email protected], the Czech Republic, UK, USA, commonly “where can I buy these wines inChina and Canada. my country?” Some asked for a wine from the region of Australia called “the South East Australia” Their background was varied but many All guests were provided with brochures region and asked where it was on ourwere involved directly in wine buying, as well as all contact details of the suppliers. displayed wine map(!) It was explainedimporting, distribution or hospitality. Those to all who asked what this meant and howwho attended the Winestate Display were Every guest who tried the wines were Winestate was promoting regionality (andsimilarly from diverse backgrounds. A large impressed with the quality and surprised has done so for the last 40 years).number of trainee sommeliers attended. at the low price. It was agreed that many restaurants (particularly in Italy) would like It was great to see PIRSA promotingFEEDBACK - to feature a premium Australian or NZ wine Adelaide as one of the Great Wine CapitalsTASTING EXPRESS MASTERCLASS on their list but there was no distributor (yet) of the World, with lots of comments about available to buy from. their display on the stand. The overall feedback was extremelypositive with guests commenting on the The display featured Margaret River Many of the guests were from professionaldistinct styles apparent from the wines from cabernet merlot and semillon sauvignon groups, sommeliers, restaurant owners,each Australian region. There was extensive blanc, as well as Grampians riesling and hotel groups and more.discussion on climate, irrigation, screw cap cabernet sauvignon and Yarra Valley pinot.vs cork, as well as some quite enthusiastic The South Australian contingent was strong, Vinitaly is a meeting place for winediscussions regarding alcohol content. including shiraz wines from Adelaide Hills, buyers from all countries who come to Barossa, Clare and McLaren Vale, plus taste and discover wines from around It was also noted by the guests (at both the cabernet from Barossa and riesling from both the world - not just Italy. Tasting Express and the display), that there was Clare and Eden Valley.no Australian participation in Vinitaly apart fromWinestate Magazine. The question was also There is an amazing demand for Touristasked “where are the New Zealand wines?”. information on Australian wines and our wine regions. We must promote the diverse regions and icon styles across the country.

BEST OF A Beautiful BunchPETER SIMIC say, none of these wines are entered by the they do) we have also had winners from the wineries so we go and buy them anyway. In a Clare Valley (Annie’s Lane) and AdelaideWOW, what an exciting judging of shiraz blind taste off if they get five stars then they’re Hills (Bird in Hand).and syrah wines this year. For Winestate truly worth the money. If they get knocked How it works:magazine’s annual judging of these wines it out, or achieve a lower rating we’ll reportproved to be the highest overall rating of this that too despite their “Icon” status. To keep Four different panels of three judges eachvariety ever achieved. This year from a total of them company we also judged another 400 evaluated these wines blind over four days.431 wines judged, we had 50 five stars and or so wines in various price categories. As Each single wine was presented to the judges60 four and a half star wines, an astonishing the land of shiraz, Australian wines featured in flights of anonymous glasses, within variousresult. Much of this can be attributed to a predominantly, but we also had other wines price ranges. Only their vintage and pricefabulous 2016 Australian vintage for the from France, New Zealand and South Africa range was identified. Following this each winevariety. The consistency it created was included. was scored independently by each judge andamazing and as I have said before it is the then collated and a consensus achieved. Wevintage of this century for the South Aussies. In case you think we are just Aussie judge according to the International 20 pointCalled the Winestate World’s Greatest biased, over the past 13 years we have system which translates into a star rating forShiraz & Syrah Challenge, this judging had Champion wines from France (Guigal each wine (it also equals the gold, silver andpits the iconic French names of Guigal La and Clape) and New Zealand (Craggy bronze system used by many wine shows).Turque, Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle, and Range). For local sceptics who think Then all wines which achieved a five starChapoutier L’ Ermite against the Aussie that blockbusters from the Barossa and rating (regardless of price) were brought backicons of Penfolds Grange, Henschke Hill of McLaren Vale reign supreme, (and often for a second blind judging, from our seniorGrace and Torbreck the Laird. Needless toTHE JUDGES (left to right): Peter Simic, Shane Harris, Eric Semmler, Peter Pollard, Stephen John, Alex Sherrah, Leigh Francis, Peter Douglas, Robert Cragg.40 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

panel, to determine the Top Ten line-up and result. I call it amazing because this is the winery that consistently does great thingsoverall Grand Champion. second time Grange has won in the past and the Zerk sisters $60 offering that beatThe Winners: three years, (with a different blind judging out many wines more than 10x the price - panel) having also won in 2016 with their amazing! As you can imagine this is where it gets 2010 vintage wine. This isn’t to say thatreally interesting. With so many superlative all Grange is great and there have been Our thanks to the many wineries who putfive star wines awarded this time the judges vintages in the past that have not been their wines up for evaluation by their expertreally had their hands full. To take on that awarded at all. It just goes to show the level peer winemakers. And thanks to the judgesenviable task we invited judges Stephen of expertise of the winemakers and the also for their vigorous evaluation of all theJohn, regular Winestate Chair of our Wine quality of fruit involved. Of course having the wines they judged. As we often say “if youof the Year Awards, Leigh Francis Head of choice of thousands of barrels doesn’t hurt have won an award with Winestate youthe Australian Wine Research Institute and either. Unfortunately for the small winemaker have earned it”.Peter Douglas, winemaker for Koonara, they don’t have that option. But credit whereconsultant winemaker and previously Chief it is due – congratulations Penfolds. Thanks to Mainfreight, our majorWinemaker for the Wynns brands, to be sponsor for this event along with ourthe arbiters. What makes this even more interesting other sponsors who make it possible. is our second and third place-getters, the There is some great reading in these wine Whilst each judge had their favourites, 2014 Gumpara Hexen ($240) and 2016 Z reviews and I can’t speak more highlythe Top Ten generally fell into place, with a Wines Julius ($60). The Hexen a fabulous of the wines you have before you. Huntunanimous decision for Grand Champion, wine seemingly out of nowhere but from a them down before they’re gone!the 2013 Penfolds Grange - an amazing Enjoy! September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 41

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDSTHE STATSthat countNUMBER TASTED: 431 Under $15 $15-$20 $20-$25 $25-$30NUMBER AWARDED: 294 Taylors St Amand Patritti Merchant Peter Lehmann Wines% awarded: 68 Special Release Barossa Shiraz 2016 McLaren Vale The Barossan Barossa Clare Valley Shiraz 2016 Shiraz 2016NUMBER OF FIVE STARS HHHH $14.99 HHHH1/2 $18 Valley Shiraz 2016(Gold Award): 50 HHHHH $24.99 HHHHH $25% awarded: 11.6NUMBER OF FOUR& HALF STARS(High Silver Award): 60% awarded: 13.92NUMBER OF FOUR STARS(Silver Award): 66% awarded: 15.31NUMBER OF THREE& HALF STARS(High Bronze Award): 41% awarded: 9.51NUMBER OF THREESTARS (Bronze Award): 74% awarded: 17.16 $40-$45 $45-$50 $50-$60 $60-$70 $70-$80 Sanguine Estate Domaine Asmara Tenafeate Creek Wines Z Wine Julius Single Mollydooker CarnivalEstate Heathcote 2014 Reserve Heathcote 2016 Museum Release One Vineyard Barossa Valley of Love McLaren Vale Tree Hill Shiraz 2010 HHHHH $40 HHHHH $49 Shiraz 2016 Shiraz 2016 HHHHH $55 HHHHH $60 HHHHH $7542 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

FINAL TOP 10 $25-$30 $30-$35 $35-$40 The Top Ten Shiraz as selected by highest judges scores are:SHIRAZ BLEND WINNER Gumpara Victor’s Old Fox Creek Short Row Vine Barossa Valley McLaren Vale 1. Penfolds Grange SA Shiraz 2013 $1,140 Annies Lane Quelltaler Shiraz 2016 Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2016 HHHHH $38 2. Gumpara Hexen HHHHH $32 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 $240Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 HHHHH $27.99 3. Z Wine Julius Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 $60$80-$100 $100-$200 $200+ 4. Reillys RCV EpitaphSaltram Single Vineyard Reillys RCV Epitaph Penfolds Grange Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 $100 SA Shiraz 2013 Marble Quarry Road Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 HHHHH $1,140 5. Tenafeate Creek Wines Museum HHHHH $100 Release One Tree Hill Shiraz 2010 $55 Barossa Shiraz 2012 HHHHH $99 6. Gumpara Victor’s Old Vine Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 $32 7. Patritti Merchant McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 $24.99 8. 1847 Wines First Pick Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 $380 9. Fox Creek Short Row McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 $38 10. Domaine Asmara Reserve Heathcote 2016 $49 TOP FRENCH WINE 1. E. Guigal La Turque Cote Rotie Hermitage 2013 $1,340 2. M. Chapoutier L’Ermite Hermitage 2014 $840 3. Paul Jaboulet Aine La Chapelle Hermitage 2013 $660 TOP NEW ZEALAND WINE 1. Vidal Legacy Hawkes Bay Syrah 2014 $79.99 2. Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2016 $49.99 3. Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2016 $59.99 MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIII STARTS PAGE 64. September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 43

TWICE IS NICE FOR THE SECOND TIME IN THREE YEARS GRANGE HAS LIFTED THE TITLE AS THE WORLD’S BEST SHIRAZ. 1ST NIGEL HOPKINS “Writing my notes about each wine makesPLA CE me think quite diagnostically about what FOR THE second time in three years characters I’m focusing on,” Gago says.1ST PLACE Grange has cleaned up the competition in “I’m not looking at the here and now. I Winestate’s annual World’s Greatest Shiraz/ look at what I think the wine will be like in PENFOLDS GRANGE Syrah Challenge. 15, 20, 25 years from now. Some people SOUTH AUSTRALIA will look for a wine that’s more showy and SHIRAZ 2013 $1,140 Tasted blind by three judges, it took on ostentatious, while others prefer bigness 430 shiraz wines from around the world, and dimension. I like tightness on the including Australian stars such as Hill of palate, poise and sheen, lots of different Grace and Torbreck, and the finest shiraz things. from leading French producers such as Paul Jaboulet, Chapoutier and Guigal. In “But there are no absolutes in wine. There 2016 the 2010 Grange won the challenge. aren’t. It’s a comparative approach. I’m a little spoiled, as is my team, in that we don’t It’s brought comparisons with the mighty just taste the one glass - we might look at 2008 Grange, and there’s no doubt that this the 2008, 2010, 2012 and 2013 side by Grange, from an almost perfect vintage, will side. And then it’s really not a hard decision. be up there among the greats. As with the 2010, the 2013 Grange Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago contained 4 per cent of cabernet sauvignon. describes its palate as: “Formidable. Both vintages were near perfect - as always No gaps, a densely packed structural with old vine shiraz, picked early, enabling continuum. Not huge, not massive, yet ferments to be finished and classification taut, muscular, feisty. A black palimpsest - under way when some wineries are still black fruits, black liquorice, black pudding, picking and fermenting. black fig, black cardamom. Granitic chewy tannins linger and coat; oak all but fully But it was a vintage that ended up concealed, submerged beneath a tannin/ causing them a few surprises. “We liked oak/acid/flavour tsunami. Fruits? Where to the vintage, but nothing really stood out. But start in this entanglement? Time, please.” then we found that all our 2013 red wines just kept getting better and better in the At this level of wine making, where do bottle, which is a really, really good sign,” you find those subtle points of difference? Gago says. “It caught us off-guard a little - we were very pleasantly surprised. And then with the 2013 Grange, it was a case of ‘my goodness, where did that come from?’ ” The penfolds winemaking team now consists of Peter Gago, Kym Schroeter, Andrew Baldwin, Matt Woo, Stephanie Dutton, Emma Wood, Andrew Hales, Dominic Coulter and Shavaughn Wells, a former Winestate Australian Winemaker of the Year. 44 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

AND THE WINNERS ARE... FROM MORE THAN 4OO SHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDSTAST E D THESE ARE TRULY THE CREAM OF THE CRO P. the first wine under the Gumpara label. The name Gumpara is derived from two words; Gum, meaning large red gumtrees, and Para, Aboriginal for river and you will notice this theme carried through on to their label design 2ND for most of their range. 3RD PLA CE PLA CE Terroir plays a major part in the quality of 2ND PLACE 3RD PLACE Gumpara wines. “All of our wines are sourced GUMPARA HEXEN Z WINE JULIUS SHIRAZ 2014 $240 from small 6th generation family owned single SHIRAZ 2016 $60GUMPARA Wines produce premium quality vineyard blocks, most of which are situated yields down fifty per cent but producinghand crafted table and fortified wines from intense fruit flavours that we see in thistheir sixth generation owned and operated on the north eastern hillsides of the Barossa special wine,” she said. All wines are handsingle vineyard at Light Pass in the Barossa crafted in small batches with all bottlesValley. Valley. All vine rows run east/west giving good individually numbered so that in every wine purchased, “you know our promise In 1856 the Mader family, driven by religious sun protection, that allows dappled light to of ‘quality not quantity’, and that you arepersecution, left their homeland of Germany, purchasing a unique product,” statesto settle in Australia. The family brought with penetrate during ripening. Most of the vines Janelle. Z (for Zerk) was born from a visionthem traditional viticulture skills along with for stylish wine without compromise. The Zfarming and fruit growing practices and set are between 30 to 90 years old.” range was designed to be the best. Highup a new life on 60 acres of land in the small quality fruit, winemaking techniques andtownship. Choosing a section of land aside The Hexen is a brand-new release wine from presentation make this wine a positivelythe banks of the North Para (river) and eastern sophisticated and elegant drink. “Ourhillsides of the Barossa Valley, proved to be Gumpara, just in time for this competition and wines have soul and style, capturing thean excellent site to begin a vineyard. As time past and displaying an inspiring modernwent by, all farming and fruit growing gave what a result! This wine takes the place of the twist. Z Shiraz is quintessentially Barossa;way to 100% viticulture. rich, desirable and irresistible.” We couldn’t Mader Reserve as the premium wine in the agree more. Six Generations later, in the year 2000,owner/winemaker Mark Mader would produce brand’s collection. “It relies more on selection from best parcels of the Mader vineyard rather than vintage variation,” states Mark. “The name Hexen is German for ‘witches’ which reflects the Silesian background of the family,” explaining the story behind the unusual moniker. However, Mark assures that these local ladies were well regarded in the community, promoting natural homeopathic cures rather than evil incantations. “Our aim is to produce high quality wines that display and reflect the character of the winemaker and of the land from which our vines are grown.” Let it cast its spell on you! SISTERS Janelle and Kristen Zerk produce the Z wine label (Z for Zerk) from fruit grown on the family vineyard in the Barossa Valley. The sisters lay claim to being the only female siblings in the Barossa to start their own wine label. The property has been in the family business for 170 Years and Janelle explains that even as children they were a part of it and that it fostered their interest in wine. “Julius is named after our grandfather and is also Kristen’s middle name,” explains Janelle. “This is our premium label sourced from the Lyndoch vineyard which is one of the earliest ripening vineyards in the region, often missing late vintage heatwaves.” “The 2016 vintage was a great one, with September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 45

The Mighty OakWHY THIS ONE SPECIES OF TREEIS SO VITAL IN WINEMAKINGJOY WALTERFANGTHE IMAGE OF A CELLAR bulging with widely distributed throughout the temperate sourced from both government-controlledwooden barrels is the embodiment of regions of the northern hemisphere, but forests and private land and have once againeverything viniferous. And yet, as far as the it’s a mere handful that meets the cooper’s gained favour with winemakers, offering aNew World is concerned, surprisingly, the requirements. In Europe it is the pedunculate less expensive alternative to French oak.oak barrel is a relatively new winemaking oak, the Quercus robur, and the sessile oak,tool. Cooperage, the art of making barrels, Q. petraea, with their numerous sub-species In 1669, Louis XIV’s Controller General ofis a trade that is at least 800 years old, with that are used. In the United States it is the Finances, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, concernedthe required skills being passed on from Quercus alba. that France might run out of timber formaster cooper to apprentice down through building warships, expanded the country’sthe generations. More than a quarter of France is covered national forests, the new plantings securing in forest, and those of Limousin, Allier, the navy’s future requirements. Oak barrels had been used for winemaking Troncais, Nevers, Bourgogne and Vosgesin Bordeaux and Burgundy for several are well recognised as premium sources of A beautiful 40m high survivor of thosehundred years but the technique of oak for wine barrels. Around 80 per cent of Colbert plantings had stood silent sentinelfermenting or ageing in oak didn’t really France’s forests are government-owned and over the Troncais forest for 336 years. Theemerge as a widespread winemaking managed by the Office National des Forets magnificent oak, with a girth of 4.6m, evendevice in the New World until the 1970s, (ONF), established by Napoleon II. had a name - Le chene de Morat - Moratwhen American winemakers such as Robert being the forester who had tended it in itsMondavi embraced the French techniques The creation of a youth. But by 2005 borers had begun tofor chardonnay and cabernet; a catalyst that thousand forests is in infest the timber and it was felled in Januarychanged the use of oak barrels from a fairly one acorn. - 2006, fetching a record €37,700 at auction.limited French provenance to a global one. It is said to have produced sixty 225-litre Ralph Waldo Emerson. barrels that were purchased by the likes of Apparently no other timber possesses the Chateau Latour and Chateau Angelus incompatibility with alcohol that oak does. In America, white oak forests are spread Bordeaux and some wineries in Spain, Italy,It not only provides watertight yet slightly right across the eastern states and are found Chile and California.porous storage capabilities but imparts in some central states. Of these resources,unique flavours and textures to the liquid 85 per cent are in private hands. Oaks felled for cooperage in France todayit nurtures. Other wood has been tried, but are not quite as old as Le chene de Morat;found wanting. Australian oak, not a true During the 19th century, sessile oak from trees are usually taken between 120 andoak but a eucalypt, imparts undesirable Hungary was highly sought after by French 200 years of age. It is the diameter of a treeflavours - as do pine, walnut and chestnut. coopers because winemakers preferred its and not its height that a cooper is interestedChilean winemakers used to age their wines softer, smoother texture. Wars and political in and usually only the part of the tree thatin barrels made from beech wood, giving a upheaval interrupted supplies, necessitating extends from the ground to the first lateralunique flavour loved only by Chileans. They the substitution of French oak. Today, Eastern branches is used; the rest is taken forhave since converted! Europe’s sessile and pendunculate oaks are furniture, veneers and the like. Depending on its geographic location, American oak But not any oak will do. The oak or usually grows faster than the EuropeanQuercus genus has around 400 species species, with its timber often harvested when46 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

THE FORESTS OF FRANCE USA CHATILLON CENTRAL BERTRANGES MISSOURI VOSGES SHENANDOAH VALLEY JUPILLES OZARKS ALLIER APPALACHIAN TRONCAIS MINNESOTAthe tree is around 70 years old. straightness of trucks, the diameter and described as vanilla, coffee, toasty, smoky, It isn’t just oak that grows in the forests of any defects; a cooper cannot use timber cedar, cigar box, coconut or butterscotch, that has knots. depending on the amount of toasting appliedFrance, and there are particular species - light, medium or heavy.encouraged to grow around an oak sapling Most of the ONF’s timber sales are throughto protect and shelter it. Then, at the auction, the Dutch auction once being a And these watertight containers are madeappropriate time, the ‘protection’ trees popular method where buyers required without the use of a single nail or dab of glue.are harvested so the oak, a light-seeking nerves of steel as the auctioneer startedspecies, will grow as tall and straight as the bid high then lowered it in increments Winemakers are faced with a confusion ofit can. Although the forests are carefully until someone broke cover and yelled, “I’ll choices when ordering their barrels. Theymanaged, they are regenerated naturally take it!” Auctions are held in October and have to decide between the species ofand for all intents and purposes are natural November and all timber must be cleared oak, its geographic origin, whether it’s fine,forests and not plantations. by the purchaser before spring. medium or course-grained, the amount of time staves are seasoned and the amount of Turning a tree into oak barrels is a Once the oak arrives at the coopers the barrel toasting. Wood from different forestscomplicated craft combining science timber is split into staves. The tighter grain can be used in one barrel or they can haveand art; it needs the knowledge of both and less watertight nature of the European a variation of stave thicknesses, all helping tometalwork and woodwork and requires an oaks means coopers have to split the add their unique stamp to the finished wine.apprenticeship of up to seven years. wood along the grain to ensure the final Barrel size also plays an important part in the product won’t leak. The different structure of amount of oak flavours infused into the wine; When Barossa winemaker Stuart Bourne American oak allows for it to be sawn. the smaller the barrel the more predominantwas invited to visit a French cooperage last the oak flavours.year, he found it a humbling experience. In France, staves are stacked on pallets“Like all winemakers, I’ve been buying oak and left outside to season for anything from American oak is said to be sweeter andbarrels for as long as I’ve been making wine,” 10 months to three years; the longer the more intensely flavoured than its Frenchsaid Stuart, “but never gave much thought seasoning the softer the oak flavour profile. counterpart and is therefore best suited toto how they were made. That trip absolutely In America, coopers sometimes kiln-dry bold, powerful reds such as shiraz or warm-turned me around and spun me inside out. timber, although more are converting to the climate chardonnays. It also suits shorterThe sheer hard work, love and attention that European methods. maturation periodsgoes into producing a barrel is amazing.Now I know why they cost a fortune!” After drying, staves are shaved, cut to the Oak barrels are one of the most expensive right length and shaped - wider in the middle parts of the winemaking process so it would French oak is sold while the trees are still and narrower on the ends. From here activity be impractical to use them for lower-pricedstanding, ensuring complete transparency becomes frenetic as the cooper turns straight wines, but there are other ways of gettingabout their geographic origin. Once the ONF timbers into curved ones, encouraging them that oak flavour profile and this is where oakhas decided a particular timber lot is ready to sit snuggly in round metal hoops. Bending chips, oak powder and other oak adjunctfor felling it sends out catalogues describing of the timber is traditionally done over fire and products come to the fore - but that storythe parcels of trees for sale and their exact steam. The barrel is placed over an open fire must wait for another time. location. Potential purchasers head for the for the final toasting, which will eventuallyforest to inspect the trees, checking for give the wine characteristics commonly September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 47

CLASSIC PRODUCTS AVAILABLE OAK · A range of oak barrels sourced from- sorting facts from voodoo the major cooperages of Burgundy, Bordeaux, Hungary and California available in sizes 225, 228, 300, 500 litres · Handcrafted upright vats, round and oval casks from 10 to 100 hectolitre capacities · New and innovative products for specific niche winemaking created by renowned cooperages OAK SOURCES The company prefers to refer to grain options rather than timber origins. Sources of oak include the prestigious forests of France, Hungary and a small region of southern Missouri in the US. GRAIN OPTIONS Medium Open, Medium, Medium Tight, Tight and Very Tight TOASTING OPTIONS Light Toast, Medium Light Toast, Medium Toast, Medium Plus Toast, Heavy Toast, plus a range of longer lower intensity firing and Toasted Head Timber stave seasoning options; 24 and 36 months natural air dryingPETER DUNLOP of Classic Oak barrel in winemaking really only became and understanding them, so they can defined in the early ’90s. It is the grain make the right purchasing decisionshas been in the barrel game for over of the oak that is the crucial factor; it when the authorities determine the trees35 years and believes there are a lot of helps to frame the mouthfeel and bring should be harvested.myths surrounding the subject of oak and an extra dimension of length to the fruit.wine, with everyone having an opinion. It makes a great wine stand out from a Of course, the actual barrel production good wine. Under a microscope the grain has a serious impact on the wine. Classic Oak is a subsidiary of the has a tissue- like structure containing, for Through TFF’s different cooperagesFrench Tonnellerie (cooperage) Group, want of a better word, nutrients such as Classic can offer extensive style optionsFrancois Freres (TFF), a fourth-generation ellagitannins and whisky lactones, which in barrels and large format casks andfamily business that went public in 1999, are drawn into the wine.” vats.with the Francois family still holding thecontrolling interest. The company owns Over the last 20 years Classic Oak with In modern cooperages there are nownine wine cooperages and four stave Demptos’s (one of the leading Bordeaux machines to assist in the manufacturingmills and its barrels are exported to over cooperages) Research Centre which process but it is still a craft-orientated40 countries. Naturally, Peter Dunlop’s is based at Bordeaux University, has industry; it is all in the eye of the cooper tointerest is in promoting his company’s been running comprehensive practical set the barrel by picking the right stavesexcellent products but he is also on a workshops for Australasian winemakers and spacing them correctly to ensurepersonal mission to get what he calls “the to demonstrate the impact different it’s watertight. It is a mixture of both theright oak message across to the industry” grains have on wine. old and the new, with each cooperageand help eliminate some of the voodoo having its own personality.associated with oak barrels and wine. In addition to Peter, Classic Oak has a professional Sales team of 6, managed “Our younger winemakers have “I don’t think we have been, as an by Hamish Black, dedicated to assisting embraced the science behind the oakindustry, telling the right story about the wine industry to choose appropriate story better than previous generations,”oak,” he says. “Realistically it is no longer options for their wines. says Peter Dunlop. “They understandabout high-impact flavour - that is a thing that the vineyard is the most importantof the past. What we are trying to say Buying the right oak is a real skill and element and the barrel a facilitator totoday is that less overt is better and the today the French and Hungarian forests making a good wine - but without goodrole of the oak barrel is to help the fruit are well managed to ensure they are fruit it won’t happen. The oak tree is tolive up to its potential by developing naturally sustainable. TFF have a team the barrel what the grape is to the wine.naturally its structure and complexity. who virtually live in the forests year- The only difference is they get to do it round - going through them, evaluating every year - we have to wait 200 years.” “Realistically, the science of the oak48 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINMELBOURNE chefs and restaurateurs the pair has created a room that leverages Mornington Peninsula cabernet vine clippingscontinue to push their businesses, their the structures of Euro markets and dining are utilised for the Blackmore bavette.teams and themselves, opening second rooms in a not-so-obvious manner. Spanish(or fifth) venues and keeping the hungry knockdown plaster and tempered steel Signature dishes have been establishedMelbourne audience sated. shelves meet a concrete and oxidised very quickly, including dressed spanner copper open bar and pass, all softened with crab, prawn butter, flat bread; smoked Chef Ashley Davis opened his second hues of azure blue tiles and features. Aged Flinders Island lamb ribs with spiced onionrestaurant, Messer, on Gertrude St, Fitzroy. leather banquettes and crisp oak timber miso and Glenora rhubarb, burnt custard,Davis, who also owns and operates Copper tables create a vibrant space inviting diners lemon verbena.Pot Seddon in Melbourne’s inner-west opened to settle in for an experience.the doors on the 45-seater in autumn and has The wine menu is built around premiercreated a menu inspired by the diversity of Venue manager Kelly Woodliffe arrived at Australian labels and European classics,produce from the market villages of Europe. Messer, most recently from l’Hotel Gitan in as well as predominately local beers and Prahran, and the wine program is designed spirits. Designer, Projects of Imagination Messer (which translates to knife in by sommelier Wiremu Andrews who says: has used raw materials throughout to bringGerman) offers lunch and dinner menus “In European culture wine is considered an the venue to life, incorporating inspirationthat change regularly determined by what’s integral ingredient in the dining experience, so from the adjacent Royal Botanic Gardensavailable at market. Lunch sees a selection in keeping with the philosophy of our kitchen, to create a venue that exudes comfort andof salads that may include salt-baked provenance of our wines is crucial. We take warmth to match the hospitality offering.beetroot, chestnut, Pedro Ximenez; organic a non-dogmatic approach to our beverage Matilda 159 Domain Rd, South Yarra; phonegrain pilaf, smoked carrots, goats curd or offering and include both classic and lo-fi (03) 9089 6668.zucchini with fennel, parmesan and olives. wines.” Shop 1, 166 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; phone (03) 9419 0035. With 63,882 T-bone steaks, 100,254 Bombe A rotisserie cooks joints of meat - think, Alaskas and over one million beautiful guests,pork hock or spatchcock - and seasonal Scott Pickett’s latest restaurant, Matilda 159 21 years later Gail and Kevin Donovanvegetables while an in-house smoker works Domain, officially opened its doors beneath and their team, are celebrating a milestoneits magic with meats, seafood and more the hotly anticipated boutique hotel United birthday for their much-loved St Kildavegetables. A menu del dia (menu of the day) Places Botanic Gardens, on South Yarra’s restaurant, Donovans. Twenty-one yearsfor lunch-only, offers three courses for $39 and Domain Rd. The launch marks Pickett’s fifth ago, Gail and Kevin took on this outstandingan evening menu of small plates encourages venue and presents a fresh approach for the location and realised their dream of creatingguests to choose as few or as many tastes chef restaurateur, with the exploration of the a warm and welcoming destination.as they wish. Alternatively, guests can ask oldest form of cookery - fire - augmented withthe team at Messer to choose a meal of eight a modern Australian menu. “Named after my The celebrations include one-off dinners,different dishes for the table at $100/person, daughter, Matilda is inspired by family and weekly prizes, special offers, guided tourslike kingfish with squid ink and lemon; clams reflects my time growing up in South Australia. of the front- and back-of-house and thea la plancha; grilled artichokes with black The menu is approachable, the produce opportunity to dine with Gail and Kevin andgarlic; flame-grilled duck and spelt or smoked seasonal and cooked simply, I want it to be hear 21 years’ worth of hospitality stories.sardines with onion pickle. somewhere that locals can pop in for a wine or two at the bar or settle in for lunch and stay Gail and Kevin refer to their restaurant as a At the core of the menus is seasonality, until dinner and be comfortable,” says Pickett. she, “she can be difficult,” laughs Gail, “butgenerosity, a palpable joy from feeding The menu highlights native ingredients with that’s why we love her. Three years ago, shepeople well and great value. Davis takes the incorporation of flames, warm coals or had a facelift (referring to the fire that closedmuch from his 10 years of living in Europe and smoke in each of the dishes, in a gas-free her temporarily) and she came back bettertranslates it easily into a Melbourne context. kitchen. Cherry wood chips are used to than ever!” 40 Jacka Blvd, St Kilda; phone smoke the Macedon Ranges duck and (03) 9534 8221. This element of care extends to the diningroom. Davis works closely with designer Top: Dressed spanner crab from Matilda 159 Domainand business partner Craig Bridge and restaurant, photo credit Gareth Sobey. Below: Matilda 159 Domain restaurant, photo Tim Grey. September/October 2018 W I N E S TAT E 49

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGIT’S strange that it’s taken so long for gratin and a crescent-shaped empanadita. seafood, dumplings, tofu specialities andsomeone to open a restaurant dedicated to The accompanying fresh-baked bread and much more. In keeping with the sophisticatedBasque cuisine in Sydney. San Sebastian in black olives in extra virgin olive oil quietened food, cocktails such as Mulan Rouge withnorthern Spain is one of the food capitals of hunger cravings and off-set the peppery heat. Grey Goose Vodka and Imperial Garden,Europe and boasts the continent’s highest Looking over to the next table, we made a based on Bombay gin, rosemary andnumber of Michelin-rated restaurants per mental bookmark to return for the lobster and grapefruit, were being downed by trendycapita. Ortzi has grasped the nettle and celeriac roll and grilled sardines with lemon. young things. The wine list has been carefullyits Basque-inspired menu straddles the line selected to match the Shandong-inspiredbetween the traditional bodegas celebrated The choice of mains is a revolving door with menu, from aromatic Pewsey Vale rieslingfor their pintxos, the local version of tapas, mainstays. On some days, the listings veer to Tappo sauvignon from Marlborough andand the sublime fare that has made the from wood-fired rib-eye with charred onions Didier Montchovet pinot noir from Burgundy.restaurants of Basque super-chefs such as and romesco to charred pork chop withJuan Maria Arzak and Eneko Atxa places of wood-roasted apples. On others, a Basque We wandered from the dumplings to thepilgrimage for gourmets. version of gnocchetti with pungent goats milk entrees for truly fang-fresh prawn pot stickers, cheese or spatchcock with radicchio, paprika mushroom spring rolls and Peking Duck Ortzi means sky in Basque, which is and yogurt is up for grabs. The real sleight- pancakes. Live lobster and snow crab wereunrelated to any Indo-European language, of-hand, though, is that this hearty-sounding on hand at market price for those keen toand the restaurant’s fit-out is a bit of a one- fare doesn’t weigh you down. make a splash. Our eyes fell on the hot andoff, too. Architect Jaime Au has configured a spicy kung pao chicken and the just-caughtsleek space of off-white walls and concrete In short, we had room for dessert after five delicacy of the steamed coral trout fillet withflooring teamed with Tasmanian oak tabletops share plates and that was a major bonus. You lemongrass and ginger. As a longtime fan ofand a bar which was hand-crafted by Ortzi’s never know what you’re going to get when a Lotus, I would come back for the wok-friedmulti-talented team. Co-owners Michael description is simply - baked cheesecake. Will wagyu beef with asparagus and black pepperOtto and Edward Saxton also operate it be a too-dense wedge or a loose grouping sauce, and braised pork belly with cinnamon,Italian hotspot Sagra in Darlinghurst and of ingredients strewn across the plate at the star anise and bamboo shoots.have insisted on contemporary cosiness whim of the chef? Ortzi’s version is a light-as-over two levels. The upstairs mezzanine and air hybrid that looks conventional but slips I usually avoid desserts in Chinesethe ground floor are both suitable for a quick down with creamy ease. The Basque rice restaurants. Too many memories ofplate of pintxos for two such as Iberian ham, pudding with Pedro Ximenez-soaked pears dull banana fritters and poorly madeajo blanco and potato, and chorizo tortilla or was a temptation, but the waiter steered rice puddings. Mama Mulan’s breaksa multi-course feast for four. us towards the chocolate mousse with the the mould with Chinese creme brulee, comment - It’s the best. It was. Ortzi, 6 Hunt made with condensed milk, that rates Otto, who is also the chef, closely follows St, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9211 2414. the description - taste sensation. Thethe Basque principle of using locally- restaurant has also teamed with popularsourced meat, fish and vegetables, and Mama Mulan has a simple aim - to be the cult favourite Duo Duo ice cream to createconstantly changes the menu to match best contemporary Chinese restaurant on the its own more-ish fried ice cream selection.market conditions. The bread, butter, pickles North Shore. A lofty goal in Chatswood where Mama Mulan, Level 1, the Concourse,and condiments are made on-site, and the Asian eateries spring up like mushrooms, but Chatswood; phone (02) 9157 1488.wine list has an emphasis on bottlings that the restaurant knows its worth. The decorshowcase Basque influence on both sides stuns at first sight and is the work of designer Woollahra’s long-established locale Theof the Pyrenees - northern Spain and south Paul Papadopoulos of DS17, who was Wine Library is flourishing under newwest France. The Basques have a strong responsible for Alpha and Nour restaurants. owners - chef Matt Taylor (ex-Bentley),cider-making tradition and flat cidre is as Yet even though it boasts 180 seats, Mama sommelier Tim Perlstone (ex-Merivale)popular as wine for washing food, so Ortzi Mulan’s mixture of antiques, expensive and Sam Jones (ex-Tequila Mockingbirddelivers in spades for those looking for a lighting, free form Asian art and smart casual and Monopole). New dishes include porkpoint of difference in their beverage choices. furniture plus the ability to seal off parts of the rillettes, chicken liver parfait and beef space makes for a very Hong Kong-moneyed tartare. A great wine list with more than 350 It was a brass monkey night when we feel that would satisfy demanding tai tais - hand-picked selections and the fact that thevisited, so we started dinner with three pampered ladies who lunch. venue takes reservations for the first timeinstantly warming small plates - salt cod seals the deal. The Wine Library, 18 Oxfordomelette with salsa rossa, scallop and chorizo Under the guiding hand of energetic St, Woollahra; phone (02) 9368 7484. hospitality entrepreneur Kim Jin, Mama Mulan was packed with Chinese and Caucasian Top right: Delicious food from Mama Mulan restaurant. families, Millennials and traditional North Left: Basque-inspired food from Ortzi restaurant. Shore professionals within a week of opening. Word had spread fast that the menu was the work of Marble Ng, the inventive chef behind the success of Lotus and Chef’s Gallery. Mulan means lily magnolia and there’s certainly many fragrant menu options from the hand-pulled noodles through live50 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2018