Wine & Spirit Insider March April 2019

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND March/April 2019 Issue 162 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 In this issue... New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED WINSOR DOBBIN MALTING, mashing, fermentation, distilling, filling, ageing, blending and bottling. Over the past few decades Japanese whisky has become recognised as world class, and a visit to the Suntory Yamazaki distillery is pretty much de rigueur for gourmets visiting the Kansai region of Japan. Most first-time Australian visitors head straight for Tokyo, but there is another, cheaper and easier Japanese travel option in Kansai. With direct Qantas flights to Osaka Kansai airport, Australian tourists have a wide range of attractions within an hour of Osaka city, including the former capital of Kyoto, Lake Bewako, Himeji Castle, the parks and old buildings of Nara and the busy city of Kobe. All are linked by Japan Railways West or Keihan Railway lines, making travel safe and easier for newcomers, and daily and weekly passes are available to reduce costs. Local trains are quick and reliable, and far less expensive than the famous shinkansen bullet trains. Above: Robata-style dining with long paddles at Restaurant Syushi Ozeki. 82 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

JAPAN is very different to anywhere else on SuntorY Yamazaki the globe and visitors will discover many quirky attractions in and around Osaka - Distillery Japan’s third city. Japan is known for its sakes and beers but Surprises I discovered included staying has also emerged as a leading producer of in a French auberge overlooking the rice whisky. The Suntory company is the biggest fields in rural Sakurai; a paddle-wheeled producer and hosts fascinating tours and ship called the Michigan on Japan’s tastings. Go behind the scenes (tours are largest inland lake, a discount store with conducted in several languages), then its own monster ferris wheel, an open-air sample the product. art gallery featuring the works of European masters and meetings with dozens of Umemori Honten Japan’s cute-as-a-button regional and business mascots. Dress up in Japanese chef’s gear and then learn how to prepare your own sushi And what about the chance to stroll the - from the ground up. What could be a old streets and temples of Kyoto dressed kitsch experience is fascinating. The tutors in traditional Japanese garb; ride a are animated and friendly, and teach the mountain cable car or learn to create sushi difference between the several species of at sushi school? fish. You get a certificate at the end if your sushi passes muster. A few years ago, Japan was regarded as an expensive destination for Australians, Auberge de but nowadays hotels and meals are cheaper than at home, particularly if you Plaisance Sakurai enjoy ramen noodles and simple dishes in taverns, known as izakayas. The setting is purely Japanese with rice fields and mountain views, but this Travel around Japan is easy - the luxury hotel around an hour from Osaka public transport, particularly railways, are is modelled on a classic French resort multilingual. hotel; right down to the degustation menu for dinner which features a Japanese take Among the many highlights of my recent on French ingredients including foie gras. trip as a guest of Kansai Gastronomy Tourism Promotions: Top left: Crab sign in downtown neon-lit Osaka. Right top to bottom: Traditional tea ceremony in Sakai, a range of sake from Suntory Yamazaki Distillery, buffet lunch at Ginsyari Geko Tei, sake brewer Ozeki. March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 83

Nara Park Visit traditional temples and join local Japanese folk on their weekend promenades through this beautiful park, but also be prepared to be hassled by the resident deer population, which relies on tourists for its food. The park is home to hundreds of roaming deer, considered in Shinto to be messengers of the gods. Nara’s nearly 1200 deer have become a symbol of the city and have been designated as a natural treasure. Don Quijote Dotonburi In the heart of neon-lit Osaka, this discount store offers a uniquely Japanese experience and is a great spot to pick up last-minute gifts. It carries an absurdly wide range of products, from groceries to electronics, clothing to high-end watches, cosmetics to chocolates. The store in Dotonbori is open 24 hours a day - and it has its own trademark yellow ferris wheel. Ride to the top for sweeping views of downtown Osaka. Top: Downtown neon-lit Osaka. Middle: Friendly deer in Nara Park. Bottom: Historic Himeji Castle. Opposite page left: Welcoming statue and signage outside an Osaka restaurant. Opposite page top: A selection of sushi from the Umemori Sushi School. Opposite page right: Neon-lit downtown Osaka. 84 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

\" the setting is purely japanese with rice fields and mountain views, but this luxury hotel around an hour \"from osaka is modelled on a classic french resort hotel. March/April 2019 W I N E S TAT E 85

THE FACTS Himeji Castle Qantas flies direct between Sydney and The largest and most-visited castle in Osaka Kansai three times a week with Japan, this dramatically beautiful castle economy return fares starting from $1156 complex in the city of Himeji dates back per person. www.qantas.com.au to 1333. It was listed in 1993 as one of the first UNESCO World Heritage sites in the The writer was a guest of Kansai country and has a fascinating history. Gastronomy Tourism Promotion Council and associated companies, including Sakamoto Keihan Holdings and JR West. Pick up the Osaka-Kansai Gourmet Food Map Cable Car when you arrive for some helpful regional itineraries. www.kansaibishoku.net/en Take in some spectacular views from the Sakamoto Cable, a funicular railway The Hotel Vischio by Granvia is a in Otsu. The line opened in 1927, as an recently opened, centrally located and eastern route to Enraku-ji, a famous temple affordable hotel choice in the busy on Mount Hiei. This is the longest funicular Umeda precinct of Osaka, just a short line in Japan and a charming step back walk from JR Osaka Station. www. in time. hotelvischio-osaka.com/en. Kyoto Tower Top left: Couple dressed in traditional Japanese Take in some superb views from the kimonos, Kyoto. top of the 131m tall Kyoto Tower, which opened in 1964 just across the road Lake Biwa from Kyoto Station. The tower is on top of a commercial building, which contains Lake Biwa is a large freshwater lake in souvenir shops, restaurants and a hotel, Shiga Prefecture, north-east of Kyoto. It as well as public baths in the basement. is known for its fish, migratory water birds Head undergound to a food hall and bar and wetland regions. Around the lake are area that offers a wide range of traditional historic sites, including the 17th-century dishes, craft brews and the chance to Hikone castle and the 8th-century Buddhist taste several sakes. Perhaps sample some temple complex Enryaku-ji. The modern anago (conger eel) or try some revered Lake Biwako Hotel at Otsu overlooks the melt-in-your mouth omi beef. lake and is home to the excellent Ohmi teppanyaki restaurant. The stylish Michigan Most visitors will want to sample matcha paddle steamer (Michigan is the sister state and wagashi, traditional Japanese of Shiga) offers luxury cruises. sweets, and possibly enjoy a traditional tea ceremony. Throw in delicious meals in Robata noodle bars, those cute mascots that you find everywhere in Japan, fast wifi and a Restaurant surprise around every corner and you have an excellent gourmet tourism destination. Syushi Ozeki Owned by the Ozeki sake brewery, this Hokkaido-style restaurant in Kobe serves a wide range of fish, meats and vegetables cooked over flames, robatayaki style, and then served to diners by a female chef using long paddles. Fun and inexpensive - and best matched with sake. Hiei Garden Museum This mountain-top outdoor art gallery near Kyoto is set in gorgeous gardens with life- size replicas of works by Monet and Renoir as nature and art co-exist. 86 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2019

204 TASTED 101 AWARDED NEW RELEASES Pretty much a 50/50 result here with the best half of the wines Bream Creek recommended. Unlike other buying guides it shows that we are Tasmania Sauvignon particular with what we recommend. With us not everyone is Blanc 2017 HHHH a winner, which means that the wines we do recommend are Vibrant and fresh stalky worthy of your attention. In this judging there was no clear herbal fragrances with standout category but both good wines and everyday quaffing a good length of zippy wines across the board. green tropical fruit flavours finishing on the SPARKLING Claymore Wines Rockridge Estate savoury side. $31 Joshua Tree Clare Clare Valley Riesling Rockridge Estate 4 TASTED Valley Riesling 2018 HHH Clare Valley 2 AWARDED 2018 HHHH Delicate floral/citrus Sauvignon Blanc A shy nose but shows fragrances with an 2018 HHH1/2 The judges expected some pretty florals and attractive, well balanced, Pungent passionfruit more from the vintage has delicate mouth- bright upfront lime bouquet and a lively sparklings - only the wateringly fresh line of driven palate. 3-5 palate with good length sparkling reds got flavours in the lemon $15 of crunchy varietal through. and lime spectrum. flavours with a tight acid Cooper Burns Eden Brash Vineyard spine. $15 Fox in the Hen 5+ $20 Valley Riesling Single Vineyard Rapaura Springs House South Margaret River Rohe - Blind River Australia Sparkling Eldredge Wines 2018 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 Spring Gully Clare A lively style that's an 2018 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Dark jubey berry Valley Riesling exotic mix of spices, An intense flavoursome 2018 HHH1/2 bouquet and robust 2018 HHHH limes and citrus blossom fruit driven sauvignon A very powerful up-front upfront sweet plum A well-made, full with mouth-watering blanc with just enough wine with loads of and licorice flavours. A flavoured wine with acidity. 5+ $25 savoury elements to honeyed passionfruit pleasant easy drinking robust spicy lemon keep it in check. Nice characters and enough style. $18 aromatics and good Pokolbin Estate perfumed lift to the nose acid to keep it all in acid/fruit balance on Pokolbin Hunter and crunchy acid on the check. $30 Gartelmann Wines the vibrant and elegant Valley Riesling palate. $22.95 Rapaura Springs Bull Hunter Valley palate. 5+ $20 2018 HHH Due South Great Paddock Vineyard Sparkling Shiraz Smells of grapefruit Southern Sauvignon Marlborough 2018 HHH Patrick of with a hint of citrus Blanc 2018 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Young spicy plum nose Coonawarra Estate blossom and has a very Alive and vibrant with 2018 HHH1/2 and a palate with nice Coonawarra citrussy flavour profile. an intense lift of fresh A powerful perfumed balance between off- Wrattonbully asparagus on the nose tropical bouquet with dry red and light spritz Riesling 3-5 $25 and nice amount of fruit more of the same characters. $35 on the palate with good echoed on the palate. 2018 HHH1/2 SAUVIGNON line of acid to balance. Has a nice savoury finish RIESLING A hint of lime cordial on BLANC $14 to it. $34 the nose with nuances Glover Family Yilgarnia Great 10 TASTED of ripe apples and a tight 13 TASTED Vineyards Zephyr Southern Sauvignon 7 AWARDED confectionery palate Marlborough Blanc 2018 HHH with nice minerally 8 AWARDED Sauvignon Blanc Fresh lift of green Solid easy drinking 2018 HHHH aromatics which follow group with more crowd notes. 5+ $25 Powerful, pungent, through on to the lightly pleaser styles rather passionfruit nose and a tropical palate. $19 than trophy winning Eldredge Wines A mixed result that was big flavoursome palate wines. Blue Chip either good or not good! that makes a huge Clare Valley Riesling \"The best had depth of impact. \"A lot of wine,\" 2018 HHH1/2 flavour and well-handled commented one judge. Lifted citrus aromas acid along with obvious $23.99 NZ with some tropicals varietal flavours, as underneath and a vibrant it should be with this lime driven palate with variety,\" noted one good crunchy acidity. judge. 3-5 $30 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 87

NEW RELEASES PINOT GRIS/ Due South Great Follow us and keep up GRIGIO Southern Semillon to date with all our latest Sauvignon Blanc wine info, tastings and 7 TASTED 2018 HHH1/2 events on facebook, 3 AWARDED A very perfumed lift twitter and instagram. to the nose and a Three easy drinkers with straightforward but Winestate Magazine the rest lacking depth. full flavoured palate @WinestateEd of asparagus over Amadio Wines passionfruit. $14 88 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Pinot Pokolbin Estate Phil Grigio 2018 HHH1/2 Swannell Hunter A pretty sweet fruit style Valley Semillon showing layers of floral 2018 HHH1/2 and savoury characters Lemon blossom aromas supported by a fine line with a mineral thread of acidity. $22 and a tight and lively citrussy palate with a Trentham The Family hint of butterscotch. $25 Murray Darling Pinot Grigio Yilgarnia Great 2018 HHH Southern Semillon Smells of cooked pears Sauvignon Blanc with a peppery lift and 2018 HHH a fresh uncomplicated Candied lemon bouquet peach/pear palate. $16 with a pungent note and an upfront full Marley Farm flavoured tropical fruit Adelaide Hills Pinot palate. $17 Gris 2018 HHH Quite a zippy fresh style OTHER WHITE with a savoury element. VARIETALS & Has floral fragrances BLENDS and a very crunchy palate. $25 7 TASTED 2 AWARDED SEMILLON & BLENDS There were just two worthwhile wines out 6 TASTED of this group. Some of 4 AWARDED the older vintage wines were past their 'use-by- A very young group date' with a few that of wines. Some nice showed winemaking blends ready for faults. summer quaffing. There was one semillon that Alex Russell Wines has potential to become alejandro Riverland a beautifully aged wine. Vermentino 2018 HHH Pertaringa Lakeside Lifted slightly pungent White Meritage citrus nose. Palate is South Australia zesty and alive with Semillon Sauvignon crunchy green apple and Blanc 2018 HHHH pear flavours. $30 Nose is a vibrant mix of flinty limes and La Villa Tasmania pungent stonefruits Savagnin 2018 HHH with an excellent Lifted floral fragrances length of fresh citrus with herbal nuances. and cut grass flavours. Very crisp tight palate A classic! $15 with mouth-watering acidity. $32

wine & spirit insider tasting CHARDONNAY Cooper Burns Trinity Hill Gimblett Eldredge Wines Alex Russell Wines & BLENDS Adelaide Hills Gravels Chardonnay Kitty Clare Valley alejandro Riverland Chardonnay 2017 HHH1/2 Sangiovese Rosé Graciano 2018 HHH 14 TASTED 2018 HHHH Aromas of honey and 2018 HHH Smells like a blueberry 8 AWARDED A lovely creamy oak peach blossom with Light lifted strawberry pie with a sweet, slightly nose with hints of apple oak sitting on top and a bouquet and fresh and perfumed, fruit palate. Generally, the 2017s blossom and loads of very tight crunchy green lively green strawberry Still very youthful. $30 were best exhibiting oak on the crunchy and stonefruit palate. $40 NZ palate. High acidity. Trentham The Family solid flavours and good complex palate with the $20 Murray Darling varietal character. The fruit to carry it. $30 Scotts Creek Retreat Nebbiolo 2017 HHH 2018s are still very Devlin's Mount South Australia Mollydooker Wines A youthful tannic style young and generally South Australia Chardonnay Serenity McLaren showing savoury borderline. Chardonnay 2018 HHH Vale Merlot Rosé characters laced with 2017 HHHH A solid full-bodied 2018 HHH sweet herbs and drying A nicely balanced style with a warmth of A confectionery sweet tannins. $16 flavoursome chardonnay stonefruits on the nose strawberries and cream GMH South with a sweet lift of and fresh stonefruit nose and palate. \"One Australia Red stonefruit aromas and flavours. $18 for the punters.\" $25 Meritage 2017 HHH subtle but \"yummy\" CDO Lifted red fruit bouquet up-front fruit varietal ROSÉ with slight porty flavours. $18 OTHER RED element and complex 9 TASTED VARIETALS & layers of plum and herb Brash Vineyard 3 AWARDED BLENDS flavours. $20 Single Vineyard Salena Estate Ink Margaret River A tough class! \"Too 14 TASTED Series Riverland Chardonnay much winemaker 6 AWARDED Touriga 2016 HHH 2017 HHHH intervention here Very spicy red fruit nose Pretty floral/stonefruit resulted in forced Generally fresh is best with a perfumed lift and fragrances with some wines,\" commented with this group. \"Many nice spicy herbal varietal oak pushing through and one judge. \"Some wines of these have not been flavours. $25 has a lovely light linear here were pushed designed for the long palate with a zesty acid into the dry spectrum haul,\" said one judge. backbone. $34.95 resulting in high acid, \"Some winemakers hard wines.\" need to watch storage Glover Family issues.\" SANGIOVESE Vineyard Zephyr Swings & Marlborough Roundabouts Swings & 4 TASTED Chardonnay Backyard Stories Roundabouts Novus 2017 HHH1/2 Margaret River Rosé Margaret River 1 AWARDED A solid example of the 2018 HHHHH Malbec 2018 HHHH Twinwoods Margaret variety with aromas of Pretty \"Argyle\" pink wine Bright black fruit bouquet Just one good example River Chardonnay almond meal, nougat with delicate strawberry with violet-like fragrances here. 2017 HHHHH and pears and flavours and citrus blossom and nice depth and Nose is a lifted of sweet stonefruits. bouquet and a long crisp length of savoury cherry Pokolbin Estate complexity of lemon $32.99 NZ palate with \"yummy\" flavours with a robust Belebula Hunter curd and fresh pears. Ross Hill Pinnacle mouth-watering water tannin structure. $26 Valley Sangiovese The palate is lively Orange Chardonnay melon/strawberry 2017 HHHH with a zesty lift of 2017 HHH1/2 flavours. $34 GMH Family Nice integration of red stonefruit flavours Beautiful butterscotch Selection South fruits, Bonox and spice and some underlying bouquet with nutty Australia Red Blend on the nose. Seamless citrus characters. An notes. Full bodied palate 2018 HHH balance between the uncomplicated wine. $25 has some stonefruit Aromas of dried fruit, acid and tannins on flavours and plenty of cranberries with a herbal acid. $35 edge and minty plum the palate. 3-5 $28 flavours. Has balance and depth. $20 JUDGES - DAY 1 Thomas Darmody Natalie Cleghorn Peter Pollard Assistant winemaker at Winemaker with Senior Winemaker at Taylors Wines. Has a Bachelor the Yalumba Wine Angas & Bremer Wines. of Viticulture & Oenology Co since 1998. Completed vintages with from the University of Associate judge at Californian Wineries Geyser Adelaide. Previously a cellar the Barossa Wine Peak, Sonoma Valley, and door assistant at Elderton Show, Stanthorpe Peter Lehmann in the Wines and Wolf Blass. Small Winemakers Barossa Valley. Previously Previously a product expert and Adelaide wine the Winemaker at Simeon at Dan Murphys. Committee show. Wines. Completed member of Clare Valley wine AWRI Advanced Wine show. Assessment course. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 89

NEW RELEASES TEMPRANILLO PINOT NOIR La Villa Cease & Di Lisio Covert Claymore Wines & BLENDS Desist Tasmania McLaren Vale London Calling Clare 10 TASTED Pinot Noir Cabernet Sauvignon Valley Cabernet 4 TASTED 7 AWARDED 2017 HHH 2015 HHHH Malbec 2017 HHH 1 AWARDED A lean mean style Minty aromas lift off the Choc mint nose with Another flight with just Consistent class of with a \"playful\" balance cassis/cigar box nose hints of beetroot that one wine making it generally cool climate between fresh cherries with rich blackcurrant shows up on the cassis through. wines with whole bunch and smoky herbal fruit filling the palate fruit palate. Some nice techniques evident. The elements. $38 with flavour and tannins. $22 Gapsted Wines High judges differed in their showing a solid tannin Finniss River Country King Valley preferences; a factor Rapaura Springs spine. $30 Currency Creek Tempranillo that showed up in the Reservoir Vineyard McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHH results. Marlborough Pinot III Associates 2017 HHH Very youthful jubey Noir 2017 HHH Renaissance Lovely chocolaty black blackberry bouquet with Rapaura Springs An interesting McLaren Vale fruit fragrances and fresh and lively flavours Rohe - Southern complexity of sour Cabernet Sauvignon flavours. Good line of raspberries and Valleys Marlborough cherries, mint, pepper Merlot 2017 HHH1/2 of tannins and nice strawberries and some Pinot Noir and herbs with long acid Nice freshness to the acidity. $25 attractive spiciness. 2017 HHH1/2 finish. $50 chocolaty varietal fruit Yilgarnia Great $20 Both the nose and nose with an attractive Southern Cabernet palate are a lovely mix of CABERNET line of crisp dark berry Sauvignon GRENACHE & sour cherry fruit, herbs SAUVIGNON & fruit flavours. $28 2015 HHH BLENDS and spices and a light BLENDS Monterra McLaren Slight savoury dash of pepper. $40 Vale Cabernet meatiness to the nose 3 TASTED 34 TASTED Sauvignon with a tight palate that 1 AWARDED Koonara Cape Banks 15 AWARDED 2016 HHH1/2 has smoky and herbal Once again only one Razortooth Vineyard Smells of cassis and elements. $24 wine made the cut. Mount Gambier Too many wines here mint with hints of Twinwoods Calcannia G.S.M Pinot Noir showing premature dark chocolate. Grippy Margaret River Clare Valley 2016 HHH1/2 development. \"The tannic palate has Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache Shiraz Gamey meaty bouquet vintages here are not \"yummy\" sweet red 2015 HHH Mourvedre with vanilla oak notes. the problem,\" said one fruit flavours. $25 A grippy earthy red 2017 HHHH Sweet/sour flavours judge. \"The problem Brash Vineyard fruited cabernet that's Red fruit fragrances with herbal elements seems to be with Single Vineyard full of flavour and laced with blackberries. and obvious oak. $25 picking time issues Margaret River developing tarry/leathery Great tannic grip to the matched by winemaking Cabernet Sauvignon aged notes. $30 palate with spicy plum Gapsted Wines that didn't handle the 2016 HHH1/2 Twinwoods Optivus flavours and peppery Tobacco Road King fruit well often resulting Pretty blue fruit Margaret River notes. $35 Valley Pinot Noir in overworked wines.\" fragrances with a violet/ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 HHH floral lift and chocolate 2015 HHH Berry fruit fragrances; Di Lisio Argento and cola characters An attractive blend of hints of tobacco and McLaren Vale over sweet black fruit sweet fruit, charry oak forest floor notes with Cabernet Merlot flavours. $39.95 and some leafy notes complex red berry 2017 HHHHH Finniss River Barrel with hints of pepper and flavours. $16 Chocolaty black fruit Select Currency mint. $45 bouquet with lovely Creek Cabernet Finniss River Block Trentham Estate lift of mint and round Sauvignon 1 Reserve Currency Grown Murray full-bodied palate with 2015 HHH1/2 Creek Cabernet Darling Pinot Noir flavours of spicy dark Complex aromas of Sauvignon 2017 HHH berry fruits, some dried fruits and oak 2015 HHH Herbal nose with raisined notes with a with leafy elements Dark chocolaty aromas strawberry fruit chocolaty thread. $20 and a full flavoured, with a menthol lift fragrances and slightly slightly earthy, good followed by a full- sweet strawberry Brand & Sons fruit palate. $85 bodied chocolaty fruit flavours. $18 Icon Coonawarra Due South Great palate. $65 Cabernet Sauvignon Southern Cabernet Patrick of Monterra Adelaide Cabernet Franc Sauvignon Coonawarra Estate Hills Pinot Noir Merlot 2017 HHH Coonawarra 2017 HHH 2016 HHHH1/2 Rich purple wine with Cabernet Sauvignon Smells of blackcurrant An intense full-bodied meaty aromas and 2014 HHH fruit jubes with similar crimson red wine with hints of black fruits Nose is a pleasant characters echoed rich lifted blackcurrant and sweet, spicy and mix of dark chocolate, on the grippy, slightly fruit characters, minty/ peppery palate. $14 berries and violets which sweet, palate. $25 menthol notes and is echoed on the vibrant nuances of forest floor palate. $29 and earthy elements. $125 90 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting SHIRAZ & Trinity Hill Gimblett Pertaringa BLENDS Gravels Syrah Undercover 2018/2017 2017 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Attractive peppery lift to Shiraz 2017 HHH 25 TASTED the perfumed fruity nose Peppery black fruit and a straightforward fragrances and quite 12 AWARDED palate with fruity crunchy purple fruit flavours. $40 NZ flavours with chewy Disappointing! \"A GMH Winemaker's tannins. $22 reflection of the vintage Reserve South Claymore Wines where the wines appear Australia Shiraz Dark Side of the one dimensional rather 2018 HHH Moon Clare Valley than offering layers,\" Nose shows some blue Shiraz 2017 HHH said one judge. \"A fruits, hints of mint and A soft rounded sweet number offered good, a slight feral note with fruit driven style with rather than great, a light bright fruit driven some rustic characters drinking showing more palate. $20 and good use of oak. $25 cool climate characters lacking the richness of Dalberti Charcoal Haha Hawkes Bay Monterra McLaren Schubert Estate The fruit.\" Burner Great Syrah 2018 HHH Vale Shiraz Hatchling Barossa Western Shiraz Vibrant peppery fruit 2017 HHH Valley Shiraz Hand Crafted 2017 HHHH1/2 fragrances with a fresh A solid straightforward 2016 HHHHH by Geoff Hardy A robust and luxurious lively dark fruit palate sweet fruited shiraz with Deep crimson red wine McLaren Vale Shiraz deep crimson wine with showing some peppery excellent oak and nice with lovely upfront 2017 HHHH1/2 lovely purple highlights. notes. $24.99 chewy tannins. $25 ripe spicy fruit aromas A crimson wine with Has rich dark fruit Due South Great showing a hint of a peppery blackberry characters laced with Southern Shiraz SHIRAZ cigars and has \"friendly\" bouquet, a perfumed lift pepper and spices and 2017 HHH 2016 & OLDER plush purple fruit and dash of spice. Bright a hint of mint. Great Rich and flavoursome flavours seamlessly spicy berry fruit flavours tannin structure. $16 with brooding meaty 33 TASTED integrated with some and lovely tannin balance Schwarz Wine Co. aromas and lifted oak 16 AWARDED nice tannins. $32 to the well-structured Barossa Valley sitting over savoury fruit palate. $30 Shiraz 2017 HHHH flavours. $14 A mixture of strong A rich robust crimson Shingleback wines and borderline varietal - silky smooth Haycutters McLaren examples. \"Oak balance in the mouth and Vale Shiraz was an issue here with loaded with ruby red 2017 HHH some wines,\" said one fruit characters and A lovely lift of purple judge. \"While others savoury/Bonox-like fruit with a dash of appeared 'dead-on- elements. $35 pepper and spice and a arrival' rather than solid tight and crunchy exhibiting the richness fruit palate. $18 and vibrancy of the McPherson Wines better wines.\" Central Victoria Shiraz Mourvedre 2017 HHH Cherries and plums on the nose with a good depth of peppery plum and oak flavours. $21.99 JUDGES - DAY 2 Natalie Cleghorn Thomas Darmody Winemaker with Assistant winemaker at Peter Simic the Yalumba Wine Taylors Wines. Has a Editor/publisher Winestate Co since 1998. Bachelor of Viticulture & Magazine. More than 40 Associate judge at Oenology from the University years’ experience in the the Barossa Wine of Adelaide. Previously wine industry. Formerly Show, Stanthorpe a cellar door assistant at founding publisher of Small Winemakers Elderton Wines and Wolf the first US colour wine and Adelaide wine Blass. Previously a product magazine, manager of show. expert at Dan Murphys. the SA Wine Information Committee member of Clare Bureau, and wine educator Valley wine show. with Regency College, in SA. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 91

NEW RELEASES Tenafeate Creek Cooper Burns Judgement One Barossa Valley Tree Hill Shiraz Shiraz 2016 HHH 2016 HHHH Big, bold, sweet fruity Developing spicy plum style that's developing aromas with a meaty nicely and has hints edge and lovely palate of cola and spicy texture with attractive elements. $40 berry fruit over oak sweetness. 5+ Cordelia McLaren $100 Vale Shiraz 2016 HHH Tenafeate Creek Dusty oak nose with Yattalunga One Tree some plums underneath Hill Shiraz and a firm tannic palate 2015 HHHH with plenty of acid. $50 Savoury meaty characters on the sour Grandeur Wellington plum nose with a hint Cellar Reserve of mint. Quite a minty McLaren Vale Shiraz palate with enough 2016 HHH savouriness to keep it in Subtle perfumed fruit check. $60 nose developing some tarry age with a firm Schubert Estate Schubert Estate seamlessly balanced Bouvet Ladubay Bouvet Ladubay Goose Yard Block Lone Goose Barossa palate. $70 Saphir Saumur Vin Tresor Saumur Vin Barossa Valley Valley Shiraz de Loire Brut de Loire Brut Shiraz 2015 HHHHH 2015 HHHH Di Lisio Catalyst 2016 HHHH 2015 HHH A deep crimson wine Sweet plum and McLaren Vale Shiraz A pleasant mix of Spicy nose with that is a lovely soft blueberry bouquet with Grenache 2015 HHH nectarines, cashews and Hessian-like complexity developing melange spicy notes and nice Aromas of candied floral aromas. Sweet and a drier crisp green of sweet blackberries, length and density of fruit and cigar box oak and \"frothy\" in the mouth apple palate. €29.99 EU licorice, spices and oak perfumed/spicy fruit with lifted jubey fruit with big bead and toasty Joseph Mellot La that is all wrapped up in flavours with chewy and chocolaty oak honeyed flavours. Chatellenie Sancerre lovely tannins with a good tannins. $98 flavours. $40 €19.99 EU Vin de Loire backbone of acid. $160 Domaine De Sauvignon Blanc Geoff Merrill Bush Patrick of Tenafeate Creek La Grezille La 2017 HHH Vine McLaren Vale Coonawarra Estate Vincenzo One Tree Galopiniere Anjou Attractive floral/candied Shiraz Grenache Wrattonbully Shiraz Hill Shiraz Cabernet Blanc Vin de Loire orange nose and nicely Mourvedre 2013 HHHH 2014 HHH Chenin Blanc balanced full flavoured 2013 HHHH1/2 Lovely mix of black Lifted leafy and 2003 HHH1/2 palate with a crisp finish. Red currants and mint fruits and perfumed oak licoricey aromas with Sweet toffee apple nose €19 EU lift off the nose and aromas with a firm, lean good depth of purple with sherry-like notes Joseph Mellot Le shows a slight savoury and clean blue fruits fruit flavours balanced and rancio flavours laced Troncsec Vin de edge. Bright fresh plum palate. \"One for the by the acid. $55 with spices, honey and Loire Fumé Blanc and mint flavours on cellar,\" said one judge. nuts. \"Different but 2017 HHH the palate with some VAL DE LOIRE good.\" $16.68 Muscat-like fragrances drying oak and lingering 5+ $29 and tight crisp candied tannins. $28 7 TASTED minerally/lemon palate. Grandeur Wellington Patrick of 5 AWARDED Some complexity. €19 EU Bin 69 McLaren Vale Coonawarra Joanna Shiraz 2016 HHHH Wrattonbully Shiraz Interesting line-up of Dense chocolaty 2013 HHHH drinkable wines without bouquet with sweet Great crimson colour faults. There was one spicy plum notes that with pretty lifted oak curio \"orange\" wine carries through on to and blueberry fragrances which was more sherry- the palate. Ageing and excellent vibrancy of like than Chenin and beautifully. A keeper. sweet fruit flavours with split the judging panel. lovely tannins. $45 5+ $30 Farmilo McLaren Schubert Estate The Vale Shiraz Gosling Barossa 2016 HHHH Valley Shiraz Elegant aromas of 2015 HHH1/2 mulberries, spices and A dense solid shiraz mint with great depth with lovely depth of of varietal flavours with plum fruit characters and acid, fruit and tannins showing a nice touch seamlessly balanced. $50 of spice with a savoury finish. $55 92 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Botter Prosecco Veneto Sacchetto Fili Prosecco La Vuelta Spanish Cava Tussock Jumper Italy Prosecco NV DOC Veneto Prosecco NV Catalunya Brut NV Pinot Grigio 2017 Good yeast autolysis blending Mellow lemon candy bouquet Green apple nose with dried Just a hint of grapefruit on the with the fresh lemonade-like and creamy smooth lemony herbs and some aged notes. nose with a delicate varietal aromas. Silky smooth in the palate. Good sugar/acid Palate is juicy and sweet and palate. $15.99 mouth with a preserved lemon balance. $19.99 tasting of roasted nuts and flavour profile and light herbal pineapple. $12.99 Coles Liquor Group notes. $19.99 Coles Liquor Group Phone: 1300 300 640 Phone: 1300 300 640 Coles Liquor Group Email: customerservice@ Coles Liquor Group Email: customerservice@ Phone: 1300 300 640 liquorlanddirect.com.au Phone: 1300 300 640 liquorlanddirect.com.au Email: customerservice@ Web: www.liquorland.com.au Email: customerservice@ Web: www.liquorland.com.au liquorlanddirect.com.au liquorlanddirect.com.au Web: www.liquorland.com.au Web: www.liquorland.com.au BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND $U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 93

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Haha Marlborough St Andrews Imperial Whispers South Eastern Haha Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2017 Reserve South Eastern Australia Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2017 Maturing well, this lively, Australia Chardonnay 2017 Enjoyable young, this medium- fully dry wine was grown 2018 Toasty buttery fragrances with bodied wine was grown in the in the Waihopai and Wairau Peachy aromas with subtle hints of botrytis-like apricot Awatere and upper Wairau valleys. Medium-bodied, it oak nuances and a refreshing notes which follow through to valleys and partly (35%) has vibrant, herbaceous and palate with nice balance of the palate. $5 barrel-aged. Bright ruby, it tropical fruit flavours, crisp and flavours. $6.99 is cherryish and plummy, punchy. Good value. $18 (A) Coles Liquor Group with distinctly spicy notes, Phone: 1300 300 640 a hint of herbs and some Haha Wine Company Ltd Coles Liquor Group Email: customerservice@ savoury complexity. $25 (A) Phone: +64 6 833 7814 Phone: 1300 300 640 liquorlanddirect.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: customerservice@ Web: www.liquorland.com.au Haha Wine Company Ltd Web: www.hahawine.co.nz liquorlanddirect.com.au Phone: +64 6 833 7814 Web: www.liquorland.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.hahawine.co.nz CABERNET CHALLENGE XIV - 2019 One of the world’s biggest tastings of Cabernet and Bordeaux blends! Come and sample nearly 500 of the greatest Cabernet Sauvignon and blends from Australia and around the world! Thursday 4 April 2019 from 6 - 8:30 pm. National Wine Centre, North Terrace, Adelaide Come and join us for this fabulous event. Over 500 bottles available to taste. Winestate subscribers are entitled to one free ticket & must call to claim your ticket. Additional guests are welcome at a cost of only $50 per person! Phone: 08 8357 9277 94 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Tussock Jumper Spain Casa Santos Lima Quinta Warburn Estate 1164 Warburn Estate 1164 Tempranillo 2017 Das Setencostas Beiras Riverina Lagrein 2016 Riverina Montepulciano Red Blend 2012 Tarry, earthy and savoury 2017 Bright purple wine with candied style showing hints of Brooding dark fruit and spicy plum nose and spicy red fruit Savoury complexity to the blue fruit characters with chocolate bouquet with flavours with greenish notes. nose with a bright juicy blue some dense tannins. $17 generous but subtle layers $15.99 fruit, licorice and spicy flavour black fruit flavours with profile. Good for its age; still Warburn Estate mouth coating tannins. $17 Coles Liquor Group incredibly youthful. $14.99 Phone: 02 6963 8300 Phone: 1300 300 640 Email: [email protected] Warburn Estate Email: customerservice@ Coles Liquor Group Web: www.warburnestate.com.au Phone: 02 6963 8300 liquorlanddirect.com.au Phone: 1300 300 640 Email: [email protected] Web: www.liquorland.com.au Email: customerservice@ Web: www.warburnestate.com.au liquorlanddirect.com.au Web: www.liquorland.com.au the wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 162 | March/April 2019 Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care is Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but Managing Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Administration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Graphic Designer WINESTATE is published six times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. Naomi Fry E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2019 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, Website www.winestate.com.au Tasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any Sophia Clements E-mail: [email protected] 95 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 95