Winestate Magazine November December 2019

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE IXCABERNET & BORDEAUX CHALLENGE FEATURING Premier Grand Cru’ Château Lafite Château Mouton Rothschild Chateau Latour Château Haut-Brion PAYING BACK Morris Wines reaches 160-year milestone &Emerging GIN CITIES Alternative Varietals STEPPING INTO THE 367tasted SPOTLIGHT November/December 2019 EMERGING VARIETALS Vol 42 Issue 6 ANNUAL AWARDS $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Clare Valley • Kangaroo Island • Riesling • Sauvignon Blanc & Blends • Pinot Gris/Grigio Semillon & Blends • Cabernet & Bordeaux Varietals • Hawkes Bay (NZ)

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NO.298 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Manager E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Ashlea Lowke E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd phone +61 8 8357 9277 or International DAI Rubicon on-line www.winestate.com.au WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright2019byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwhole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 5

contents NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 FEATURES 34 A LOIRE UNTO THEMSELVES 42 From the outside looking in, the 42 PAYING BACK R E G U L A R S French wine industry’s system of regional and quality controls can A decades-old favour recently 10 Briefs appear complicated and confusing, repaid has helped one of Australia’s 26 NZ Briefs writes Dan Traucki. But after a recent oldest and most recognised 28 European Report with Sally Easton trip to the French wine heartland in wineries to reach a major milestone, 30 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley the Loire Valley and discussions with writes Jeni Port. Morris Wines was 32 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King industry leaders, he offers a simplified on the brink of disappearing off 50 Grapevine understanding of the complexities. the vinous landscape earlier this 56 What’s it Worth? decade until Casella Wines stepped 129 Subscription Form 34 in and purchased the 160-year-old 130 Aftertaste Victorian winery. 38 STEPPING INTO THE SPOTLIGHT W I N E TAST I N G S The surge in the number of Australian 46 GIN CITIES 60 Clare Valley wineries using little-known or emerging Australian-distilled gins were few and 64 Cabernet Sauvignon & grape varieties to produce wines for far between at the beginning of the Bordeaux Blends the mainstream market continues to 2000s, reports Joy Walterfang, but 78 Riesling grow, reports Dan Traucki. Almost 50 that has changed dramatically in the 82 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends per cent of Australian wineries are last five years as the industry has 86 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio now producing at least one wine from undergone dramatic development. 88 Emerging Varietals emerging varieties. To encourage And one of the industry driving forces 98 Kangaroo Island this growth, Winestate launched its is South Australian-based Michael 100 Semillon & Blends Emerging Variety Awards and the Hickinbotham. He has developed a 104 Hawkes Bay, NZ second annual event has uncovered range of Australian capital city style 112 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases some remarkable new flavours. gins which have found favour with spirit drinkers. 46 116 New Releases and Best Value Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine Issue Number 298 For a complete list of what we tasted for this November/December 2019 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Cover photograph Larysa Swayne 6 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019



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editorial AT THIS TIME OF THE YEAR we are enjoying all the new release 2019 white wines and this is reflected in the annual judgings of riesling, pinot gris/grigio, semillon and sauvignon blanc along with the usual New Release judging. What is evident across the board is that the 2019 wines are showing nice varietal character and as expected, freshness and vibrancy. Intensity of flavour seems to equate with price, with lighter wines at the lower end perhaps reflecting bigger crop yields and higher priced wines reflecting low crop yields usually from cool climate regions. Some wines in the middle have used phenolics (pressings) to build flavour with mixed results. Red wines are not forgotten in this issue where a line-up of around 350 cabernet sauvignon wines, including the so-called bordeaux blend varieties of cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot and malbec were also judged in the China Southern Airlines Great Cabernets & Bordeaux Blends Challenge IX. Once again we put up the Bordeaux First Growths against the Aussie champions in a blind tasting and although the styles are slightly different, the quality was of an equal standard. A great result for the locals! For something completely different we added our judging of Emerging & Alternative varietals (this year adding sangiovese and tempranillo, plus a number of others to the mix). Generally these are mid-weight, great wines with food, rather than blockbuster trophy winners. The wines that excelled were made to their alternative style rather then trying to create something 'mainstream' and failing. Our regional judgings in this issue are both from South Australia; the romantic Clare Valley where riesling is unsurpassed, along with fine shiraz wines and Kangaroo Island, the emerging jewel in the crown for local cuisine. Both are great tourism destinations, a little off the path from the usual treks to the Barossa or McLaren Vale but well worth a visit. A few nights are in order to make the most of it. For New Zealand we have our annual judging of the great wines of Hawkes Bay where slightly warmer temperatures than other Kiwi regions result in fantastic chardonnays and cabernets and even some highly prized syrah wines. Our New Zealand Wine Editor, Michael Cooper, also points out the latest Recent Release wines worthy of your attention. As I always say check out the reviews. Look at them not just from a high score point of view but also from a three star recommended value point of view. Note the ones that correspond to your taste and budget. Unlike other wine shows we describe each wine so you can fine-tune your selection to your own preferences (Big, austere, tannic, light, slightly sweet, fruity, spicy, mellow, complex, etc, etc). The list goes on. Work out what you like to drink. Also, keep in mind that a wine might receive a three star bronze award because it might be in the process of developing and has not quite reached its full potential, or alternatively the wine might be starting to 'fall away' providing a great drink-now option. The one thing you can be sure of is that if it has achieved an award with Winestate it's definitely a wine worth getting your hands on, regardless of the rating. Next, get on Google and contact the wineries involved and they will let you know where you can buy some samples, or even buy direct from them, mention you saw their awarded wine in Winestate and they might even give you a discounted rate! These could become your new favourites. Enjoy! Your wine, our ports. Peter Simic Australia Editor/Publisher Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Major Sponsors and Supporters Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs MINIMUM INTERVENTION FOR MAXIMUM Seppeltsfield is part of the Randall Wine Group, which also RETURN owns almost 1600ha of vineyards in South Australian wine regions McLaren Vale and Clare Valley. ALISTER Purbrick, who owns venerable Victorian winery Tahbilk, has teamed with his son and daughter-in-law, Matt and Lentil Located in the heart of the Barossa, Seppeltsfield dates back to Purbrick, to launch a new natural wine label, Minimum. the 1850s. Seppeltsfield also opened a wine chateau in China in 2017 in a joint venture with Minquan Jiuding Wine Company Ltd. Minimum is designed to focus on minimum intervention wines, It is the first Chinese chateau to have a part ownership stake by natural growing principles and sustainability from vineyard to the an Australian winemaker. bottle. Its initial offering features three wines - a 2018 sangiovese syrah, a 2018 chardonnay and a 2019 sangiovese rosato. Seppeltsfield Wines executive chairman Warren Randall said the recent acquisition of the Tanunda Hill vineyards from a private In preparation for launching Minimum, the Purbricks spent the investment group made two clear statements of intent. “Our past two years converting a 50ha vineyard on the Goulburn River belief in the importance of the Barossa as Australia’s premier to organic, with full certification expected in 2020. winemaking region, and our strong desire and commitment to supply the burgeoning demand for luxury Australian red wine in “Minimum is about enjoying the good life, but not at the expense China,” Randall said. of the environment,” says Matt Purbrick, who uses organic grapes, wild and cultivated biodynamic yeasts, and minimal sulphur. Visit FOCUS ON THE LOCALS minimumwines.com. AN innovative new South Australian CHINA DEMAND FUELS EXPANSION start-up has taken the concept of shopping at a farmers market SEPPELTSFIELD Wines, one of Australia’s leading wine exporters to a new level by building and to China, has boosted its fruit intake by purchasing the 320ha launching Toast The Locals, an Tanunda Hill vineyard in the Barossa. online marketplace where lovers of quality artisan food and drink The purchase brings Seppeltsfield Wines’ vineyard holdings in can now source and shop directly the region to what it says makes it the largest owner of premium with the producers. vineyards in the region’s history. Since launching in February, Toast The Locals has already attracted 30 artisan food and beverage businesses which have registered to set up their free online shop. Over 150 quality products are already available on Toast The Locals, including alcohol. Think artisan cheese from Barossa Valley Cheese Company, award-winning sauces, vinaigrettes, condiments, dukkahs, infused olive oils and more from artisan brands, including Matchetts and Big Sissy Foods, Spice Girlz Gourmet, Port Willunga Fine Foods, Grounds Gourmet, Relish The Barossa and the Gourmet Entertainer. Each artisan is encouraged to tell their unique story and share photos and videos - all part of helping 10 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

briefs customers to learn about the passionate people behind the cooked from scratch with what we and our neighbours grow,” chef products and the brands they can find. and owner Currie explains. “That hasn’t changed in five years. What has changed is that we are taking that ethos even further. Our chefs “The business model is simple, in that we want to provide a and waiters will be working as one team to bring guests a food and place where artisan growers, makers and producers from all over wine experience that is quintessentially Mudgee - focused on what Australia, can be easily found by the people looking to source and we’re growing, where we live and what we believe in.” cook with high quality and locally made Australian products,” says Angela Leske, founder of Toast The Locals. With the business partnership now dissolved, Currie says they are very pleased to show their appreciation to the people who have The Star of Greece at Port Willunga in South Australia was helped and supported them by getting back to what they do best. the recent host for a Producers Plate long table dinner for 50, which celebrated the artisan foods, wines and craft beers of “When you’re faced with major challenges in life you re-evaluate the Fleurieu Peninsula. what you want to achieve, how you go about it and how you care for the people around you. These considerations are reflected in Mark Slade, director of Purple Hands Wines in the Barossa the restaurant. I’ve thought thoroughly about the experience I want Valley, said: “Purple Hands is a boutique artisan wine label from our guests to have. It’s about pleasure, not novelty. It’s about the the southern Barossa. It is great to be part of Toast The Locals comfort of all our senses, from the moment you arrive, to each because it helps raise our brand awareness to those who love dish, the wine you enjoy and the surroundings in which you do so.” the artisan food and wine concept, and Angela’s enthusiasm and support for the artisan producers is something to admire.” Currie has championed New South Wales regional dining and Visit toastthelocals.com.au. food for more than three decades with produce and producers always the central focus. BRANCHING OUT The restaurant relaunch will present a number of different FOR the past 13 years Liz experiences. The hero is the Ultimate Saturday Long Lunch where Heidenreich has been the guests feast on six courses with matched wines, including those winemaker at Sevenhill from Lowe’s museum stock, and have time to wander the extensive Cellars, the Jesuit-owned food gardens with Zin’s gardener on hand. winery in the Clare Valley. Before that she did four Friday and Saturday evenings at Zin offer a shorter four-course vintages as winemaker set menu for those who want the essence of Zin without the for British pop star Sir Cliff time commitment. The popular Monday Kitchen Garden returns Richard’s Vida Nova brand. with an increased focus on pre-lunch foraging and a cooking demonstration from the restaurant’s open kitchen. On Sundays the Now Heidenreich, whose Zin team will take up residence in the new Pavilion at Lowe. The family has grown wine Pavilion, a custom-built marquee located between Lowe Wines grapes since 1936, has and the Zin House, specialises in weddings, functions and classic struck out on her own with Sunday roasts. Visit www.zinhouse.com.au. three releases under her own label, a bold Barossa shiraz, a Barossa grenache and a Clare Valley riesling. MELLOW MOMENTS “My philosophy is to source small parcels of fruit from the regions There is Dylan, Janis and Lou in which they excel and handcraft individual batches that capture Reed on the sound system; the fruit’s formidable character,” she said. the vibe is mellow; the food is South American accented “I’m really pleased that this new venture recognises my family’s and the service is charming. long association with the Barossa Valley and their involvement in grape-growing and winemaking.” Cygnet, in the deep south o f Ta s m a n i a , h a s a n e w Heidenreich is also moonlighting as consultant winemaker for eatery, one that is open at Peter Teakle Wines at Port Lincoln. night (Thursday-Sunday) and is the new offering from LOCAL WITH A NATIONAL REPUTATION former MasterChef finalist Sarah Clare. KIM Currie’s The Zin House, a Mudgee favourite with a national reputation, reopened its doors on July 1 after being closed for six months. During the restaurant’s temporary closure Currie and husband David Lowe were involved in a dispute with a business partner that jeopardised the future of Lowe Wines and the historic Tinja property where Zin House resides. “From the beginning I said Zin House was about simple food, November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs Cygnet is 50 minutes from Hobart in the agriculturally abundant Huon Valley and Ilha is located in the venue that was formerly the School House Coffee Shop. It serves tapas as well as blackboard specials. The wine list features wine from Tasmania, mainland Australia, and South America. Clare appeared on MasterChef 2018 and was a popular contestant, finishing in the top 10. FESTIVAL FOCUS ON TAMAR 220L Muller copper still (considered the “Bentley” of stills), with a state-of-the-art 1000L still due to arrive from Germany and join LOOKING for an excuse to visit Tasmania’s vineyards but need a production early next year. bit of time to get prepared? When the new still arrives, the Patient Wolf distillery is expected Vintage:Tamar is a new festival launched by Tamar Valley Wine, to be Australia’s largest urban gin distillery. The current range a celebration of vintage which showcases the vineyards, cellar includes Melbourne Dry Gin, Summer Thyme Gin and Blackthorn doors, wineries and landscapes of the iconic cool-climate wine Gin featuring sloe berries from Tasmania. producing region. Visit patientwolfgin.com. The inaugural festival, Vintage:Tamar 2020, will take place from Friday, May 29 to Sunday, May 31, 2020 and on the last weekend PREPARING FOR A DRY FUTURE of May annually thereafter. CYPRIOT grape varieties xynisteri (white) and maratheftiko (red) The festival aims to celebrate the most exciting point of the have just been released from Australian quarantine and are winemaker’s year, when grapes are harvested and pressed and being propagated at the University of Adelaide’s Waite campus potentially great new wines are created. in South Australia. The festival kicks off on the Friday evening with A Night At the The vines will be planted in trials that replicate those being Museum, a quiz hosted by a high-profile wine commentator, with undertaken in commercial Cypriot vineyards to determine their tastings and sales of museum wines from the Tamar region. suitability for Australian conditions. On the Saturday evening guests choose from three exclusive, University of Adelaide PhD student Alexander Copper has ticketed dinners, themed Glittering, Dark and Broody, and Elegant established trials under irrigated and drought conditions in Cyprus and Charming, highlighting sparkling wines, pinot noir and and the material from quarantine will be used to repeat these aromatic whites. Each dinner will feature a guest speaker. experiments in Australia to further determine their drought tolerance. Daytime tours will showcase the region with visitors travelling with “We are seeing increasing temperatures and increasing boutique tour companies, coaches and classic car clubs. Cellar frequency of heat waves in southern Australia and this is affecting doors will offer immersive experiences such as guided winery vine harvest and putting more and more pressure on water tours, vineyard pruning lessons, vintage flight tastings, master resources,” Copper said. classes and food options. “These varieties are very drought tolerant in Cyprus, often grown URBAN OUTLET FOR A RURAL STAR without any irrigation, and it is hoped they will be able to grow in Australian conditions with minimal to no irrigation.” PATIENT Wolf Distilling Co., an independent boutique gin producer currently based in Brunswick, will soon open the doors to a new “Australia’s popular grape varieties, including shiraz, cabernet distillery and bar located in Melbourne’s busy Southbank precinct. sauvignon, pinot noir, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot gris are all French varieties that traditionally have been grown in Bucking the trend in Australia for regional-based distilleries, parts of France with high rainfall and without irrigation. In Australia Patient Wolf is moving its hand-crafted gin production close to these varieties are typically irrigated due to our difference in the heart of the city. rainfall, likewise our rieslings which originally came from Germany. We do have some more drought tolerant varieties from Spain, Patient Wolf co-founders and distillers Matt Argus and Dave Irwin Italy and Portugal, but I believe the Cypriot varieties will be are currently renovating a red brick industrial warehouse at 34-36 more drought tolerant than these. They have been cultivated for Market St, an inner-city side street which straddles the Southbank and South Melbourne border. thousands of years in Cyprus, tolerating The working distillery and bar will become the largest independent very hot, dry distillery in Victoria. Patient Wolf’s new venue will offer guests the summers, surviving opportunity to taste Patient Wolf gins, go behind the scenes and on winter rainfall join intimate gin master classes to learn more about the distilling alone, very similar process.The 30-person venue will offer a seasonal drinks menu to our climate here featuring gin and tonics, classic cocktails such as a negroni or a in South Australia.” gin martini, alongside more experimental gin combinations. Copper is funded The urban distillery will be the new home for Patient Wolf’s existing 12 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

briefs by University of Adelaide and Wine Australia scholarships, and to grow. Our family, together with the remarkably talented and supervised by associate professors Cassandra Collins and dedicated team at Bird in Hand, feel very fortunate to be able to Susan Bastian, and Dr Trent Johnson, in the university’s School of promote the elite artisan wines and produce of South Australia with Agriculture, Food and Wine. the world from our Adelaide Hills home.” He said he hoped to have data ready for publication from the Cyprus trials early in 2020 and from the Australian trials at the Waite campus in autumn 2021. “After that we hope to run field trials in different regions of South Australia,” he said. Associate Professor Collins said the first part of the project was to assess consumer response in Australia to the Cypriot wines, which had been positive. “Considering the similar climates of Australia and Cyprus, these Cypriot grape varieties have potential as environmentally sustainable wines which will require less resources and help in the future adaptation of the wine industry to a changing climate,” she said. PUSH FOR GLOBAL RECOGNITION ONE FOR THE ANCESTORS ADELAIDE Hills winery Bird in Hand has revealed plans for a $30 ONE of Australia’s most respected winemakers, Andrew “Ox” million revamp of its Woodside property. Hardy, has launched Ox Hardy, a range of wines that he says represents a combination of people, vineyard, history and The upgrade will include an exclusive 40-seat wine and winemaking provenance. culinary experience, an art gallery, increased cellar door space, underground cellars, tasting rooms and landscaped gardens. The former Petaluma and Knappstein winemaker and his late A development application has been lodged with Adelaide father Bob started making small Hills Council and Bird in Hand is hoping to begin construction amounts of shiraz from the last early next year. remaining 2.5ha of 1891 Ancestor Vines on their family’s Upper Tintara Founded in 1997 on a former dairy farm near the 19th-century Bird Vineyard, around 20 years ago. in Hand gold mine site, the family-owned winery released its first The block, planted by Andrew’s vintages in 2001 and now produces close to 90,000 cases a year. great-great grandfather Thomas Hardy, known as the “Father of the Bird in Hand exports wine to about 15 countries, including China, South Australian Wine industry”, is the United States, Canada, Germany and the UK. Founder Andrew one of Australia’s most important Nugent said the project was the next step towards the winery’s goal viticultural assets featuring some of becoming one of the world’s leading wineries and a pre-eminent of Australia’s oldest and most international tourist destination showcasing elite South Australian valuable vines. wine, produce, art and culture. Drawing from these exceptional “We intend to create a space of global, cultural and artistic vines and more than 36 years of paramountcy that helps secure our state and region as an winemaking experience, Andrew imperative on the world wine and tourism map,” he said. persisted in making small amounts of 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz Paramountcy - an interesting word. “That means not only increasing each vintage, which he claims to have been “a bit like ripping up our ability to cater for growing demand but also shining light on $100 bills in the shower.” The limited amounts of wine produced the outstanding winemakers, food producers, artists and designers from this block were cellared and hidden from the public for two that we nurture here.” decades until the first release this month. Although sometimes overshadowed by the Barossa just to Due to the limited amount of 1891 Ancestor Vines remaining, the the north and McLaren Vale to the south, the Adelaide Hills has wine is made in extremely small quantities. The first 2008 vintage emerged as one of Australia’s leading cool-climate wine regions in of Ox Hardy’s 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz has been released with recent years and is home to over 100 wine producers. The existing around 800 perfectly cellared bottles that will be sold on a strict Bird in Hand winery features a cellar door, The Gallery restaurant, a smaller private dining and tasting room and a larger area suitable for concerts and formal functions. Nugent said the project aimed to reciprocate the support Bird in Hand had received from South Australians and the Adelaide Hills community for so many years. “It is a community we are so grateful to be a part of,” he said. “The Adelaide Hills is a major part of South Australia’s $7 billion visitor economy, and we share the state government’s vision November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs allocation basis. Alongside the release of the 1891 Ancestor Vine with increased varietal character.” Shiraz is the Upper Tintara Vineyard Shiraz. Affectionately named What makes the award special is that it comes in the inaugural “Little Ox”, this 2016 shiraz has been sourced from millennium shiraz plantings on the Hardy family’s Upper Tintara Vineyard. year for new chief winemaker Bryant. “I was drawn to Mission Hill by what I saw as the incredible Purchased by Thomas Hardy in McLaren Vale in 1871, the picturesque 141ha property is also home to the original Upper potential of the Okanagan Valley and Anthony von Mandl’s Tintara Winery, which fell into disuse in 1923 following Thomas vision to create iconic wines that can stand among the best in Hardy’s passing in 1912. the world,” he said. In 2018, Andrew “Ox” Hardy made wine in the original slate “This award underscores this belief and represents a open fermenters for the first time in 95 years. He plans an ongoing tremendous achievement for everything our team has winemaking program on-site. accomplished. Without a doubt, this is the most unique winemaking region in the world, and I am incredibly proud of The 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz: 2008 Vintage has an RRP of our team and their commitment to producing wines of distinct $225. The Upper Tintara Vineyard Shiraz: 2016 Vintage will cost character and quality.” $38. Visit oxhardywines.com.au. NEW LOOK TO MARK 50 YEARS BRYANT MAKES HIS MARK IN CANADA FAMILY-owned Taylors Wines has undergone a total portfolio MANY wine drinkers will remember Ben Bryant, who was making refresh, updating its Estate, Jaraman and St Andrews labels, giving some terrific wines for Jacob’s Creek/Pernod Ricard and then each range a new look for the winery’s 50th anniversary. headed for Canada. Taking the refresh beyond the bottle and label, the family has Bryant has made an immediate impact in his new home in explored the use of augmented reality (AR) to further enhance the the Okanagan Valley, British Colombia, with Mission Hill Family wine drinking experience. Estate the winner of the coveted Winery of the Year title at the 2019 National Wine Awards. Through the new Taylors Wines mobile app, available on both the App Store and Google Play, wine lovers can discover the history The awards saw more than 1800 wines entered from 259 behind the 50-year-old winery through an AR animation feature. wineries in Canada. In addition to the Winery of the Year title, Mission Hill collected an unprecedented 18 medals in the “This is an exciting new step into how devoted drinkers engage competition, including two platinum, six gold and seven silver with Taylors Wines,” third-generation managing director and for its portfolio. winemaker Mitchell Taylor said. Presented by WineAlign, the National Wine Awards of Canada While the re-design enhances the premium cues across each is the nation’s largest and most prestigious wine competition. range and provides greater consistency across the entire portfolio, Mission Hill won for the fifth time in the history of the competition. it’s the mobile technology that stands out to Taylor. “The Winery of the Year designation is as big as it gets in “While the redesign honours each of the ranges’ original designs, Canadian wine,” said David Lawrason, co-chairman of the National we’ve taken the update one step further into the future through the Wine Awards. “We are very impressed that the performance of use of AR,” he said. “The new application will give Taylors wine Mission Hill Family Estate led all others in 2019 with an incredible drinkers the opportunity to learn more about our family, our winery 18 medals. Never in the history of this competition has a winning and the wine they are enjoying. And we have some exciting plans winery amassed such an array of medals that range across wine to further develop the app experience in the future.” styles, grape varieties and price points.” Mission Hill Family Estate proprietor Anthony von Mandl said: “Winning Canadian Winery of the Year for the fifth time is hugely exciting, especially as Canada has never had as many wineries making such excellent wines across the country. A number of years ago, we took a bold decision to farm 100 per cent of our own grapes and are now doing so organically. This level of commitment to the land enables our teams to push the boundaries of viticulture and winemaking in the Okanagan Valley. We see the difference in our vineyards with soils that are more alive, vines that are healthier and stronger, and grapes 14 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

briefs The mobile app, developed in collaboration with digital agency themselves a little pat on Talkin’ Things, allows wine drinkers to unlock the AR experience the back for genuinely using the “scan” option with any bottle of Taylors Wines. Upon improving their health.” scanning and recognising the bottle, the application automatically initiates the animated AR feature of Taylors’ history. But wait, there’s more. The range contains four In addition to the label scanning feature, purchasers of The flavours - kola, creamy Legacy 2014 (Taylors new super-premium cabernet blend) will be soda, yuzu and now able to access a “verify” feature to ensure the wine is authentic raspberry. and unopened. The feature uses a unique NFC chip installed on the screw cap to communicate with a smartphone. And a percentage of every bottle of raspberry The refreshed look is rolling out now, with the Taylors Wines mobile sold is being donated to app available from the Apple App Store and Google Play store. LGBTIQ+ charities around the country; a cause close GOLDEN FUTURE to the hearts of the business owners. The first recipient MINER’S Gold Brewery is a microbrewery established in the former is the new Victorian Pride chief engineer’s house in what was once part of the Beaconsfield Centre in St Kilda. Gold Mine in the Tamar Valley, Tasmania. Bod Drinks co-founder The space has been restored with the addition of a microbrewery and co-owner Emma and commercial kitchen offering food and beer combinations. It is Risvanis said: “You can adjacent to the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre. The menu feel good about drinking is based on a paddock-to-plate theme supporting local producers. any of our Living Soda range, but if you choose Visitors can view and see the brewery in operation and can the raspberry flavour, you’ll participate in interactive tours with a tour guide as well as tasting have even more reason to the raw ingredients and gaining an understanding of beer feel great. We’re excited to manufacturing with a tasting paddle option. be able to give back to the community in this way.” The bar offers a rotating season range of different beers on tap. Jude Munro AO, chair of the Victorian Pride Centre welcomes When work is completed Miner's Gold will be open Wednesday the initiative. “We’re happy to align with brands that share our to Sunday, but for now is open at weekends only 10am-5pm. Visit values of inclusion and community, and we’re looking forward minersgold.com.au. to the support this project will bring the LGBTIQ community.” HEALTHY OPTION Nicole DiPietro-Case is not only a Bod co-founder and co- owner, she’s a practicing naturopath. “We know that good GREEN smoothies with spirulina and the like leave me cold; health stems from a happy, healthy gut,” she said. “Every and I’m just not attracted to kombucha. bottle in the Living Soda range contains a dose of probiotic Bacillus subtilis R0179, known to improve and repair the gut The new Living Soda range by Bod is sugar free and also flora. Most probiotics don’t survive in liquid for more than a few contains a dose of probiotics for better gut health. months. This particular probiotic does. It’s like having one-billion microscopic gladiators going to battle in your gut every day.” The promo says it is so healthy that drinkers should “give The range has been sweetened with xylitol (from birch), a prebiotic that starves oral bacteria, making these drinks great for gum health, too. (Give yourself another pat on the back). Prebiotics, apparently, are a type of fibre that acts like a fertiliser for the good bacteria in your gut. Probiotics, prebiotics. All I know is it tastes pretty good to me - and that’s all I want from a drink. The Bod Living Soda range is available online and in many health stores, cafes and independent supermarkets. They retail for $3.99. November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs BYO WELCOME HERE ENJOY A RUM, TOO THERE are many reasons for BYO. Among them a restaurant’s poor PHUKET is Thailand’s top resort island, a place for enjoying sandy or overpriced list or the desire to open a special bottle with friends. beaches, poolside cocktails and maybe some diving. Australian wine and food lovers can now locate over 3200 BYO There are temples, some outstanding restaurants, a seriously restaurants around the country with just a few taps. Wine retailer big Buddha, crazy nightlife of Bangla Rd, Patong, and myriad Cellarmasters has launched BYO Finder, a free app that helps wine luxury resorts. lovers discover BYO restaurants in their area and recommends wines to go with their food. Now Phuket has a new tourism drawcard - the Chalong Bay Rum Distillery. The brainchild of French couple Marine Lucchini and “Our customers love to know they can enjoy a great bottle Thibault Spithakis, and their Thai partners, the distillery produces when they dine, which is why they prefer BYO restaurants handcrafted white rums from local sugar cane, using sustainable so they can bring their own,” said Ben Copeman-Hill, GM at production and traditional distilling methods. Cellarmasters. “We wanted to make it easy for them to have a great wining and dining experience every time, which is why Visitors can choose between guided tours of the distillery, we decided to create the BYO Finder app.” organised tastings, cocktail workshops or lunch and dinner at the on-site restaurant, which is open daily. A recent Cellarmasters survey showed over 74% per cent of wine lovers prefer to dine at a BYO restaurant rather than just Thailand grows over 200 different varieties of sugar cane, but a licensed venue. the distillery uses only indigenous single variety best-in-crop sugarcane, grown without chemicals or fertilisers, in partnership “BYO Finder is great for discovering new restaurants in your with local farmers who still harvest their crop by hand. These area, and it’s the perfect app to have on hand when you’re traditional methods of growing and harvesting sugarcane produce travelling,” said Copeman-Hill. 100 per cent natural first press cane juice that’s ready to be distilled. Key features of the app include an ability to locate BYO The point of difference here is that the rums are distilled using restaurants by GPS or search; wine with style of cuisine; book local flavours, including kaffir lime, lemongrass, Thai sweet basil, an Uber to the restaurant and the function to add your own BYO lime and cinnamon. Also on sale are various syrups ideal for favourite restaurants (if not already listed). crafting your own cocktails. Visit www.chalongbayrum.com or phone +66 93 575 1119. 16 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

briefs A GROWING FAMILY Maurice O’Shea Award is given every three years to people or organisations who have made a significant contribution to the TRENTHAM Estate’s popular The Family range of Italian varietal Australian wine community. In presenting this year’s award, fifth- wines has received a make-over, changing the look from the generation Jeff McWilliam said of Hill-Smith: “his leadership, traditional to modern. innovation and ongoing commitment to the betterment of the Australian wine landscape is legendary.” The collection has been a favourite with consumers since its release in 2005, with just three wines in the range - pinot grigio, ON THE COMEBACK TRAIL moscato and nebbiolo - and other than a small refresh of the packaging in 2015, The Family range’s aesthetic has remained MOUNT Ophir Winery and Vineyard, a name once celebrated much the same for the best part of 15 years. widely for the quality of its wines from Rutherglen to the UK, is back. The range relaunch brings the packaging up to date and the Left largely dormant since its closure in 1995, the Mount Ophir team behind Trentham Estate is delighted with the results of Estate name is now on the comeback trail following its 2016 the redesign. purchase and rehabilitation by the Brown family, of All Saints Estate. Anthony Murphy, Trentham Estate co-owner and chief winemaker The Brown siblings, Eliza, Angela and Nick, have renovated and said: “The wines that are coming out under that new label - the re-opened a number of houses on the estate outside the town prosecco and new vermentino look excellent, also the nero of Rutherglen for accommodation, and are now in the throes of d’avola and soon-to-be released nebbiolo look really good from bringing the 1890s winery back to life. the 2018 vintage. So we’re really excited about the new fresh look and new wines.” A shiraz from the 2019 vintage has been made at All Saints Estate from vines planted on the Mount Ophir vineyard and neglected for The range has grown over the years to now encompass eight many years. More wines are expected to follow and in the future varieties of Italian-style wines, including prosecco, vermentino, will be made in a fully functional Mount Ophir winery. pinot grigio, moscato, sangiovese rosé, nero d’avola, nebbiolo and frizzante maestri. It’s a heartfelt story, one that issues in a new era for a once great Aussie wine name. “It’s really exciting to get that brand up and The Family range is available for purchase at cellar door, running,” says Eliza Brown, chief executive at All Saints Estate. Trentham Estate’s online shop and from national retailers. Visit trenthamestate.com.au. “Mount Ophir was originally the biggest winery in the southern hemisphere. It had 36 open fermenters and the winery equipment CONTRIBUTION RECOGNISED was moved by a pulley system driven by a steam engine. It was such a big place.” ROBERT Hill-Smith, the man behind such wine industry initiatives as the Working With Wine Fellowship which fosters the next generation The estate closed in 1955 as the result of restrictions on trade of Australian men and women and a co-founder of Australia’s First following World War II and the withdrawal of the wine export bounty. Families of Wine is the recipient of Australia’s wine industry’s - the Maurice O’Shea Award. This time around it’s better placed for success. Hill-Smith is chairman of Yalumba, the oldest family-owned winery LOOKING TO THE FUTURE in Australia, and is known for his big picture thinking in addition to keeping some of this country’s great traditions and historical AT a time when Yering Station is celebrating the 20th anniversary links alive. His passion for sustainability and the environment is of its reserve wine program, it is not only reflecting on its history well-documented. but also looking to the future. “That’s a bit of a crusade for me, accepting what Mother The historic winery and vineyards in the heart of the Yarra Nature delivers rather than trying to dictate what we wish we’re Valley, just outside Yarra Glen, also happens to be in a good at,” he once told noted South Australian photographer phylloxera zone, with its vineyards in coming years set to slowly and author, Milton Wordley. become the fodder of the infamous root-eating vine louse, phylloxera vastatrix. Named after the late, great McWilliam’s Wines winemaker, the November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefs However, Darren Rathbone, winemaker and second-generation of the Rathbone family to own Yering Station, has a plan. “Replanting (the vineyards at once) is a major capital burden on our business,” he said during the recent celebration of 20 years of Yering Station reserve wines. “But we have a chance to improve (vine material for replanting) and we have two rootstock trials happening. “It will take us 20 years to replant and we can’t do it all at once. If and when we have to lose productivity, we can have them (new rootstock) in the ground.” He believes the trials, involving the testing of five different phylloxera-resistant rootstocks for both shiraz and pinot noir, is the only trial of its size in the country. More than .4ha in grapes for each rootstock has been planted. SICILIAN ADVENTURE for a boost in quality right across the McGuigan Wines portfolio. “We make a $150 bottle of wine and what happens along the WITH his Italian heritage, it is not all that surprising to see that John Casella, of Casella Wines, has a soft spot for the grape way?” he asked. “The bar gets lifted in everything you do at varieties of Italy. However, there is one in particular that he the winery and that excellence, and lift in quality means that loves, and he is now set to plant what is believed to be the the $10 bottle of wine will start to taste like a $15 dollar of wine first plantings of it in this country. Nerello mascalese is hailed and that’s what I think we have done with our business. We have as the premier red grape variety of Sicily, a grape capable of over-delivered at every price point.” producing top quality wines that age particularly well. STYLE STATEMENT The grape hails from the town of Mascali in the shadow of Mt Etna on the eastern side of the island which also happens to FROM the family who introduced the prosecco grape variety be close to where Casella’s parents came from. into Australia and were the first to present to Australian wine drinkers the historical Col Fondo approach to prosecco “Mascali is a tiny little town,” he says, “about 7km from where winemaking, comes a new style. my parents come from. Nerello tastes fantastic. I love the wine.” “Everyone was used to seeing prosecco While not giving too much away, he says he has sourced as a primary fruit-driven wine but no-one planting material and is looking for suitable sites. One site that had really seen it with any bottle ferment catches his eye is Currency Creek, a sub-region of McLaren complexity and texture,” explains Dal Zotto Vale that boasts sandy soils and a longer harvest ripening Wines winemaker, Michael Dal Zotto. period than the rest of the Vale. Col Fondo (where the yeast sediment is not Just how much Casella plans to plant is an unknown, but if it removed) changed all that and now Dal Zotto is any indication to go by, Casella Wines does have 32.3 ha of is set to release a wine that takes Australian another top-selling Sicilian red grape, nero d’avola, under vine. prosecco even further. He calls it Tebelo, in honour of his paternal grandfather who would MCGUIGAN STEPS DOWN have made prosecco exactly the same way in his home town of Valdobbiadene in the ONE of the Australian wine community’s great achievers, Neil Veneto region of Italy. McGuigan, has resigned as CEO of McGuigan Wines. “This is Col Fondo as it was historically made. McGuigan joined the company in 1992 and has been awarded We have a base wine and we then hand-pick International Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine and some prosecco grapes, dry them out, press Spirits Competition in London four times, and White Winemaker the dried grapes and use the concentrated of the Year four times at the International Wine Challenge. juice to re-start a ferment in the bottle,” he said. “That adds a lot more texture and each One of his last jobs in the role as chief winemaker and CEO individual ferment is very different.” before taking on the new role of Technical Advisor at McGuigan Wines, was to oversee a tasting of the company’s Trophy Trailblazers in Sydney. He said his philosophy behind the making of some of his most-awarded wines laid the foundation 18 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

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briefs MURAL MAGIC SOLAR POWER A SMALL town in Tasmania has cleverly reinvented itself by NEW holiday house on the north coast of Tasmania takes eco- encouraging artists to create murals on walls of buildings and in friendly to a new level. a local park. Greens Beach Solar Home is an emission-free, totally off- The rural northern Tasmanian town of Sheffield suffered a severe grid homestay. At first glance the two-bedroom property is down turn before locals decided to take action. The town made a contemporary, architect-designed home. Yet its looks are itself an instant tourist attraction and now holds an annual festival. eclipsed by its serious sustainability credential. Sheffield, in the foothills of Mount Roland, is 30 minutes from The house has all the comforts, amenities and appliances Devonport and under an hour from Launceston. It is a gateway to of a modern home, but is completely self-sufficient for power, Cradle Mountain and promotes itself as a “Town of Murals”. There are waste, and water. “Greens Beach Solar Home is quite possibly more than 140 murals to discover, some on the main street, others the world’s first modern all-electric, completely emission free, in Mural Park, and others tucked away. The artworks feature the totally off-grid house,” says architect and homeowner David history of the area and range from traditional to ultra-modern in style. Macfarlane. “It’s a luxuriously-appointed, state-of-the-art solar-powered house which is naturally comfortable all year Take the audio tour, available from the visitor information centre, round - fresh and cool throughout summer, but warm and to interpret the stories the murals tell. cosy in winter - without a wood fire, gas heater (or cooker), or back-up generator.” Sheffield is also home to several cafes and eateries, as well as quirky stores such as World of Marbles, The Emporium and The Guests at Greens Beach Solar home can enjoy the veranda at Contraptuary. See visitcradlecoast.com.au/products/destination- the rear of the property, while evenings see curious wallabies information/sheffield-town-of-murals. grazing on the front lawn. Inside the solar-powered home, there’s a large master bedroom with a king-size bed and French doors opening on to the veranda. The fully equipped kitchen includes an induction glass cook top, convection/microwave oven, fridge/freezer, dishwasher, DeLonghi coffee machine, stainless steel cookware. The bathroom has a full-size bath that can be filled with piping hot Tasmanian rainwater from the tank on the property. The passive ventilation system circulates a constant supply of fresh air. In-house entertainment options include a flat-screen TV/DVD player, a library of more than 200 DVDs, over 100 books, and fast, free wireless internet. The house is just a quick walk to Greens Beach, a quiet and sheltered swimming spot. There’s also a nine-hole golf course, public tennis courts and access to a coastal trail through Narawntapu National Park. The area is known for its native wildlife. Every booking at Greens Beach Solar Home includes early check-in (any time after 11am) and late check-out (until 4pm). Bookings for stays of seven nights or more attract a 10 per cent discount plus a complimentary bottle of Tamar Valley wine. Visit: www.greensbeachsolarhome.com.au. 20 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

briefs HANDS-ON APPROACH cellar door as part of their experience,” she said. “That’s 23 per cent of all visitors to Tasmania and reflects the continuing global FORMER MasterChef fan favourite interest in our wines. Sarah Clare was very hands-on as she prepared to launch her own “While Tasmania only produces a modest quantity of wine, it has restaurant in the Huon Valley in created records in 2018 in terms of the value of its wine.” Wine Tasmania’s deep south. Tasmania’s 2018 vintage survey reported a record average price paid for Tasmanian wine grapes of $2977 per tonne, with Tasmania Clare was involved in both painting producing just 0.91 per cent of Australia’s total wine grapes but and decorating what is now known representing 4.37 per cent of its value. as Ilha in the town of Cygnet. Ilha is the Portuguese name for island. “Tasmania has built its reputation on outstanding quality wines Clare opened up shop in what was and this reputation directly contributes to increasing demand previously the School House Coffee Shop in June and completely for our wines and growing high-value visitation to our cellar re-designed the space to highlight an open kitchen. Ilha showcases doors,” Davies said. local produce from fresh fish ceviche to ducks, rabbits and wallaby, and has a definite south American accent, featuring dishes and The free Tasmanian Wine Trails publication reaches more wines from Brazil and Argentina. The wine list showcases the best than 250,000 people through the printed and interactive digital from Tasmania, the mainland and South America. versions. Copies are available by contacting Wine Tasmania; phone (03) 6223 3770 or visit www.winetasmania.com.au/ Clare, a 33-year-old mother of one, was a top 10 contestant on wine_trails, and from cellar doors, airports, tourism outlets and MasterChef in 2018 and has opened in her hometown, which is visitor information centres. also home to Gourmet Farmer Matthew Evans and his once-a-week Fat Pig Farm. WANDER THE WILDERNESS Ilha will fill a void in Cygnet by opening four nights a week - THE Tarkine is a large tract of protected wilderness in north-west Thursday to Sunday - and will offer tapas and wine by the glass as Tasmania. It is a jaw-droppingly beautiful region - the largest well as a seasonal al a carte menu with blackboard specials. Clare expanse of temperate rainforest in the southern hemisphere. has lived and worked in Sydney and Melbourne, where she ran the bar at Murmur. Phone 0404 365 815. The newly refurbed Julius River Rainforest Walk is a short but stunning stroll through rainforest and eucalypt forest alongside a TRAIL GUIDE TO ISLAND’S TOP CELLAR DOORS pristine wild river. WITH the Tasmanian wine industry booming there are more cellar The relatively flat walk has recently been given a new non-slip doors than ever for visitors to explore, but because Tasmania is a surface without impacting on the authenticity of the experience. small state, not all tasting facilities are open seven days a week. One of the best things about the Tarkine is that it is accessible yet Which means interstate guests need to do their research. remains wild and rugged. The island state’s peak wine body, Wine Tasmania, has launched the 2019 Tasmanian Wine Trails guide, featuring 70 cellar doors and vineyards, together with complementary dining and visitor experiences. The guide has been published annually since 2008 and continues to grow in popularity, flying off the shelves at the Visitor Information Centres, airports, cellar doors, accommodation and attractions throughout the state. The guide also attracts significant visitation to its digital version. Wine Tasmania CEO Sheralee Davies, noted that visitor numbers to the island’s cellar doors continued to grow strongly and even more quickly than the number of overall visitors to Tasmania. “Over the year to June 2017, just under 300,000 of our interstate and international visitors called into a November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 21

briefs Recreational opportunities include short and long walking tracks, STILLWATER’S CALMING INFLUENCE kayaking, rafting, fishing, photography, camping, self-touring, wildlife viewing and nature appreciation. The Julius River Rainforest Walk was LAUNCESTON’S award-winning restaurant Stillwater now offers only completed earlier this year. The Julius River region has excellent luxury boutique accommodation within its restored 1830s flour mill. picnic facilities, parking and a public toilet. Transformed by Cumulus Studio, Tasmania’s nationally-acclaimed HISTORIC REVIVAL architecture firm, Stillwater Seven has seven rooms with restful waterfront views and bespoke furniture designed by Tasmanian maker MOSS Hotel is a new 41- Simon Ancher. room boutique hotel set in the historic warehouses Guests have access to a private guest bar and behind-the-scenes of Salamanca Place, access to the iconic Stillwater kitchen. Hobart, behind a Georgian-era facade of Early morning guests are invited to chat with the chefs on the culinary sandstone. In previous delights of the day before the restaurant opens. The hotel is a 10-minute incarnations it has been walk from the Launceston CBD and only minutes stroll away from Penny a nightclub and a brothel. Royal Adventures. The in-room pantry, bar and fridges are filled with an extensive range of Tasmanian treats such as cheese, sourdough Experienced hotelier, bread, local butter and hazelnuts. Each stay also includes an a la carte Rod Black, formerly of Stillwater breakfast. Visit www.stillwater.com.au. the Henry Jones Art Hotel, is the general manager. Moss is the latest business venture for the family-owned Behrakis SUNSHINE HOLIDAYS Group. Tasmanian touches in the hotel include the work of local artisans and local products. Each room features hand-crafted THE Sunshine Coast is to get its first new-build hotel since furniture and cushions, luxurious blankets, robes and other the 1980s. amenities, and there are dozens of cafes, bars and restaurants within walking distance. Visit www.mosshotel.com.au. Leading Australian hotel investment and development company Pro-Invest will open a Holiday Inn Express & Suites Sunshine Coast TINY CHALLENGE in Maroochydore Town Centre in 2020. The 167-room hotel will be located in the heart of the new Maroochydore CBD. KIN is one of Hobart’s newer restaurant arrivals, a tiny hole- in-the-wall joint that can seat a maximum of 13 people at any The nine-storey Holiday Inn Express & Suites is planned to also one time. have a swimming pool, bar and dining venue, conference and function facilities, and ground-level retail. Announcing the project, You’ll find it on Macquarie St, just a few doors from Tom Ronald Barrott, CEO of Pro-Invest, said the Sunshine Coast was McHugo’s pub. The cuisine is Japanese yakitori-style barbecue going through an unprecedented economic transformation, and with an impressive range of cocktails and sakes, as well as the acquisition of the site reflected the group's ability to target and wines and beers. deliver high-quality hotel development opportunities. It is more funky than romantic but the food is authentic. Think “This will be one of the region’s most significant tourism fresh local produce - from poultry to squid - the majority of infrastructure projects in decades,” Barrott said. “While there have which is cooked on a traditional Japanese Yakitori grill and been some hotel developments proposed for the Sunshine Coast can be paired with sake, Japanese-inspired cocktails or local in recent years, they are still a long way from being realised. In beer and wine. contrast, Pro-Invest has the unique advantage in the Australian hotel landscape of being able to deliver projects from inception Chef/owner Casey Burns serves up dishes like chicken thigh to opening.” It is planned to have the hotel open to coincide with and spring onion skewers (two per serve) for $12.50, or perhaps the official launch of the new Sunshine Coast Airport runway at octopus ($14) or wallaby thigh fillet ($13). Other options include the end of 2020. a seaweed salad ($9) or Tasmanian octopus and mushroom gyoza (more like samosas in texture but four to a generous HENRY TUNES UP FOR SYMPHONY serve for $11). BRISBANE’S Proud Henry artisan wine bar and ginoteca has partnered The food is clearly cooked with love and attention to detail, and with leading Granite Belt wine producer Symphony Hill to create an guests can order either a la carte or pay $60 for a six-course urban cellar door in Fortitude Valley. “feed me” menu. Kin is open Tuesday-Sunday from 6pm at 71 Macquarie St, Hobart; phone 0474 875 892 or visit www. Symphony Hill is one of the stars of the Queensland wine kinjapanesebbq.com. industry and sees the collaboration as a chance to boost awareness of its wines. Three months after a visit to the Granite Belt for his 30th birthday, Ewen Macpherson had enrolled in a viticulture degree and purchased a block of land to start producing wine. With his 22 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

briefs parents and wife on board, they went about creating a winery that MONGOLIAN-STYLE LUXURY has picked up a swag of awards. VISITORS to Ballandean on the Granite Belt now have the option “This partnership with Proud Henry is a great step forward for of sleeping in a pair of yurts. us,” Macpherson said. Yurts, or octagonal tents, have been a distinctive feature of “We know people love our wines so providing them in the heart of life in Central Asia for thousands of years but these yurts are Brisbane, where we know the Proud Henry team can do them justice, is actually eight-sided small, solid buildings. the next step in our evolution. We trust their instinct and their ability. Their wine knowledge is impeccable and we are confident this collaboration The yurts at James Farmhouse and Cottages are fully self- is a really good match for us.” contained with a separate bedroom, fully equipped kitchen, gas hot plate, small fridge, log fire, reverse-cycle air conditioning and While Proud Henry has Queensland’s largest collection of gin under fly screens. They also have a flat-screen TVs in the lounge room one roof, it also offers a selection of smaller, handcrafted wines. and in bedroom. “We love great wine and we get excited being able to bring Guests can choose to stay in either Zuny (which is the Mongolian something new to the table,” said the Proud Henry team. “This word for summer) or in Namar (Mongolian for autumn). Drinking collaboration sets us apart and offers us a chance to showcase water is from rainwater tanks treated via an ultra-violet light system, what the team at Symphony Hill have to offer and showcase what while power is provided by solar panels from the farmhouse. Visit we do at the same time.” jamesfarmhouse.com.au/the_yurts.html. All of Symphony Hill’s wines are available for purchase at Proud Henry MT MULLIGAN JOINS THE COLLECTION and tastings are available daily from noon-5pm. Seven Symphony Hill wines will feature on the wine list and can be served with charcuterie THINK Qualia on Hamilton Island, Southern Ocean Lodge on and cheese. Proud Henry is at 153 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley, Kangaroo Island or Saffire Freycinet in Tasmania. All are among Brisbane; phone (07) 3102 1237 or visit proudhenry.com.au. Australia’s most exclusive travel destinations and all are members of the Luxury Lodges of Australia collection. TAPAS ON THE TABLE Now this collection of “special occasion” destinations has a new STANTHORPE on the Granite Belt has a new dining option since member - Mt Mulligan Lodge in Queensland, which offers an outback June - Brazilian Tapas @ The Rocks Restaurant. experience with lashings of luxury. The new eatery, in a space that previously served Korean food, is “Guests can immerse themselves in the Queensland outback part of the Honeysuckle Cottages accommodation complex. in a captivating landscape steeped in indigenous significance and rich in pioneering heritage,” says the lodge. Expect dishes like “picanha” - the cap section of a rump steak, cooked over an open flame and served cut up in bite-sized pieces. Located on a private 28,000ha outback property, Mt Mulligan Lodge It is listed under churrasquinhos (grills) on the menu. The dish accommodates just 16 indulged guests at any one time. is served with salsa and “farofa”, a cassava dish similar to dukkha, on the side. It offers three different room types, a main pavilion for guest meals and relaxation, an infinity pool and sunset bar. Each guest room Guests can choose from a range of vegetable and side dishes and is also assigned its own electric buggy to explore the sprawling then add steak, chorizo, crumbed chicken, pork belly or chicken property with ease. hearts. Drinks choices include Brazilian caipirinha cocktails. A range of experiences have been designed to fit in with the rugged The location is 9-15 Mayfair Lane, Stanthorpe; phone (07) 4681 1510. outback territory. Mt Mulligan Lodge offers guided tours of the goldfields, including a demonstration of Australia’s oldest operating gold crusher at Tyrconnell, exploration of the historic Mount Mulligan coal mine November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 23

briefs and abandoned township, ATV adventures discovering the region, Adina Brisbane has chef-prepared gourmet picnic hampers, wildlife spotting, sunset 220 rooms and suites drinks overlooking the escarpment, star gazing, hikes, barramundi and includes an extra fishing in the weir and the chance to experience the day-to-day five levels designed operations of a working cattle station. Helicopter tours are also to complement the available for those with the fattest wallets. historic building with expansive views and Located 150km north-west of Cairns, Mt Mulligan Lodge is balconies.TFE Hotels accessible via a 35-minute scenic helicopter flight from Cairns or a and TKD Architects 2.5-hour 4WD adventure from Cairns. All stays include three gourmet have restored the meals daily, unlimited Australian wine, beer and soft drinks and daily double-height original group activities. Visit luxurylodgesofaustralia.com.au/lodges. timber-panelled walls and ornate ceiling BACK IN BUSINESS roses from the original banking hall. There THE Adina Apartment Hotel Brisbane has reopened after is a gym alongside a having been closed for 12 months. Set in the heritage-listed heated pool, which former Queensland Government Savings Bank building, the is enclosed on each side but open to the Brisbane sky. The on-site Donna Chang restaurant features Sichuan flavours and authentic Cantonese cuisine, while the Boom Boom Room, on the lower levels, is the spot for drinks. Located on the corner of George and Elizabeth streets, the Adina Brisbane is close to the Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, the Queensland Performing Arts Centre in Southbank and the Queen Street Mall, is well positioned for easy access to the $3 billion Queen’s Wharf redevelopment, and is ideally located for both business and leisure stays. Visit adinahotels.com/en/apartments/brisbane. 24 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

briefs ON TRACK FOR WINERY TOURS The island’s surrounding waters are home to healthy coral reefs, rainbow-coloured fish and a host of IMAX-sized marine TOURISTS can get on board for regular historic railway day creatures. Above the tideline, Wilson is a seasonal resting place trips, journeying through picturesque Granite Belt Wine Country. for birds, including the goofy-footed shearwater that burrows its nest 60cm into the sand. Prices start from $950 per couple All rail day tours depart and return to Warwick, with tours per night, and the entire island can be booked exclusively for to the Granite Belt following the rail line southward towards $8100 per night, minimum three nights. Stanthorpe. SERVING UP COOKING SKILLS Visitors can decide whether to get off in Stanthorpe (with the option to do a winery tour, bus tour or bicycle tour, or to continue THE Gold Coast has a world-class cooking school with Willow further south to Wallangarra’s lovely historic railway station with Vale Cooking School opening its doors. option for buffet lunch). Set on 3ha in the Gold Coast Hinterland, in a beautiful 130-year- The tours are typically operated with a steam train but during old heritage Queenslander surrounded by green hills, the periods of low rainfall (which has been typical of 2019) a diesel school is owned and run by Bruno and Catherine Loubet, who engine is used for fire safety reasons. For tour details and returned to Australia from the UK at the end of 2017 to pursue timetables visit sdsr.org.au/all-tours. their dream of launching a bespoke culinary school. A veteran in the restaurant industry, Loubet spent more than 40 years ISLAND ‘GLAMPING’ heading up kitchens in London, France and Australia working with world-renowned chefs, along the way gaining Michelin stars WILSON Island, one of nature’s tiniest arks has reopened as and publishing three cookbooks. Loubet has worked with Pierre Queensland’s newest low-tech glamping offering. Koffmann at La Tante Claire and with Raymond Blanc at the two Michelin-starred Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. The Bordeaux native At just 5.4ha in size - as big as five football fields - the island earned a Michelin star as head chef at the Four Seasons, Inn is a micro bump on the most magnificent reef in the world and on the Park, before opening Bistrot Bruno, L’Odeon, and Bistrot is located a 40-minute slow boat ride from Heron Island Resort Bruno Loubet at The Zetter Hotel. on the Southern Great Barrier Reef. The island will cradle nine glamping tents plus a central longhouse serving fresh Australian The Willow Vale Cooking School workshops are planned around cuisine and an honesty bar. the garden calendar and tailored to seasonal vegetables. Loubet will cook in front of guests while offering tips and tricks of the It is so remote every visit comes with a digital detox. There trade. Visit willowvalecookingschool.com. are no emails. No Facebook. No phone. And just enough power to charge the camera and chill the wine. November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 25

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW FAMILY AFFAIR THE Family of Twelve group again hosted 12 lucky wine professionals from Australia, NZ and Asia for its second annual Wine Tutorial, tasting some of the world’s finest wines over an intensive two days of masterclasses and workshops. The Tutorial Dux was Sydney’s Melissa Moore, of the Merivale Group, while Wellington wine bar owner and WSET educator Josh Pointon won the Institute of Masters of Wine prize, enabling him to join the 2019 IMW Education Seminar in Adelaide. LIFTING ORGANIC STANDARDS OPENINGS CENTRAL Otago Winegrowers Association (COWA) recently AFTER several years in planning and construction, Central Otago’s announced that an impressive 17 per cent (350ha) of the Gibbston Valley Winery’s Lodge and Spa will be opening the region’s vineyards are certified organic or biodynamic with doors to its 24 private villas in mid-December. Guests can explore another 6 per cent (115ha) within the three-year organic the 400ha Gibbston Station, visit the award-winning winery and certification process (land must be managed to certified cheesery, indulge in a spa package or just kick back with a glass organic standards for three years before full status is granted or two of wine. Hawke’s Bay’s newly refurbished Te Awa Cellar Door by an organic certifying body). This puts it at the forefront of has opened, offering a unique tasting experience with the extensive organic viticulture in NZ (the national average is 4 per cent collection of Te Awa, Esk Valley, Vidal and Villa Maria wines now of vineyards) as well as a regional leader globally. Aotearoa available together. The popular cellar door also offers superb bistro New Zealand Fine Wine Estates Estate Manager and COWA dining, showcasing Hawke’s Bay’s abundant produce. chairperson Nick Paulin says: “This is a credit to the hard- working growers, winemakers and owners whose passion YEALAND RECERTIFIED AS CARBON NEUTRAL and commitment has generated this result. Central Otago is a natural fit for organic viticulture. We are passionate here MARLBOROUGH’S about taking great care of our land and also driven to create Yealand’s Wine Group the absolute highest-quality wines. Time and again, organic has been recertified and biodynamic production has been shown to create premium as carbon neutral by wines that truly express the spirit of our land, while regenerating Enviro-Mark Solutions, a and preserving the landscape for future generations.” Organic credential it’s held since production is receiving increasing attention in NZ, with 2008. The company the recent sell-out Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing undertakes an array of Conference attracting a notable number of conventional innovative sustainability producers considering the move into organics. The NZ practices, including vine- government is currently establishing a national standard pruning furnaces, solar and wind power, miniature sheep for organic produce and New Zealand Winegrowers has “mowers”, wetland and wildflower habitats and chickens increased funding for organic research by 50 per cent, as well for insect control. An annual external audit is carried out of as supporting the Organic Focus Vineyard project and other the company’s greenhouse gas emissions arising from their industry-led workshops. full production and distribution chain, including disposal of packaging in market. Yealands must demonstrate an annual reduction in its carbon footprint and the recent audit showed a reduction of 21 per cent, with solid gains in product transportation and energy efficiency. Sustainability manager Tara Smith says: “We are delighted to be recertified as part of our ongoing sustainability focus… the independent endorsement allows us to talk about the carbon neutral status of our wines with confidence.” 26 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW VINEYARDS AMONG THE WORLD’S BEST NEW RESEARCH INSTITUTE FOR MARLBOROUGH PROBABLY surprising no one who has ever visited Central MARLBOROUGH’S Bragato Research Institute (BRI) has Otago winery Rippon, a family-owned biodynamic vineyard announced its national Research Winery will be built at the on the shores of Lake Wanaka, was named the eighth best Marlborough Research Centre on the Nelson Marlborough vineyard in the world and the best in Australasia in the World’s Institute of Technology (NMIT) campus in Blenheim, positioning it Best Vineyard Awards. Some 1500 wineries were nominated alongside Plant and Food Research, New Zealand Winegrowers by an academy of international wine experts, with Rippon not and Wine Marlborough. Formerly known as the New Zealand the only NZ winery to feature. Hawke’s Bay’s Craggy Range Winegrowers Research Centre, the BRI Research Winery’s 100 nabbed 11th place, the only other NZ winery to make the Top research fermenters will extend research trials on finished wines 50. Reputably one of the world’s most photographed vineyards, as well as facilitating trialling of winery equipment and technology, Rippon was singled out for its “jaw-droppingly beautiful winemaking processes, sustainable winemaking and winery views from the shore of Lake Wanaka” and “stunningly sleek operations. It will also provide commercial research winemaking biodynamic wines”, while Craggy Range attracted attention services. CEO of BRI, MJ Loza, notes that the new location will for its luxury accommodation, award-winning restaurant and enhance collaboration between the different organisations. “The “multi-region single-vineyard wines”. Awards founder Andrew trial to assess the effectiveness of our research winery fermenters Reed said the gongs are designed to acknowledge vineyards that took place over vintage is a good example of the collaboration that offer “a total package, as wine is a reflection of its individual already happening,” said Loza. “It was carried out by Plant and surrounds, its terroir”. Argentina’s Zuccardi Valle de Uco took Food Research, based in the NMIT teaching winery, with NMIT out first place, with Bodega Garzon in Uruguay second, and students working on the trial. It was a real team effort, and our Spain’s R Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia coming in third. location here supports and encourages that. The establishment of a world-leading, sustainable, national Research Winery in Marlborough will be a real draw-card for the region and the NZ wine industry as a whole.” The Research Winery will be built as part of a larger development, including labs and office space. Construction is underway to have the winery operational for vintage 2020. November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 27

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW TRADITIONALISTS CONTINUE THEIR CRUS CONVERSATIONS THE “cru” concept continues to develop raised as a possible longer-term outcome. textual names such as Foscarino (Soave), across traditional European wine regions. The project produced a huge amount of Culs de Beaujeu (Sancerre), Meursault Les That specialness of site; specificity of detail. Geology and soil information, water Perrières (Burgundy), ‘Cote de Py’ (Morgon, place. In viticultural terms cru is a special retention, sunshine, altitude, exposure - “all Beaujolais), especially in the old world. A sort of vineyard status. Arguably the most the parameters that form terroir” said Jean long heritage of cultivation has shown that famous usage is in left bank Bordeaux, Bourjade, president of Inter Beaujolais, some of these single-vineyard plots can where crus are ranked with numerical which funded the $1.4m project. produce wines with different or unique hierarchy - premier cru, deuxieme cru, etc. attributes from neighbouring plots. first growth, second growth, etc. The recent Producers looking for legal recognition of some 33 Soave crus In France, the names of lieux dits are in north-east Italy was explored last time increasing specialisation documented in the land registry, or in this section. cadastre, which dates to the Napoleonic and uniqueness, lack era (for tax collection). Some of these Admirers of French wine, burgundy names are now being used as unique especially, will be familiar with the hundreds of replicability, are references and, importantly, for wine, of years of experiential learning and are recognised because they are on the monastic exploration that led to the modern appealing to consumers cadastre. This unique name can be added appellation hierarchy of the region, where to the label, as a point of intra-appellation premier cru and grand cru are embedded who appreciate wines differentiation and tool for communication. within the appellation structure. More Bourjade said: “a direct benefit of all recently, this millennium, Beaujolais, right from particular spots the soil studies we’ve done is to have at the southern end of Burgundy, and made more cuvees from single vineyards”. from gamay rather than pinot noir, has with unique attributes. He explained: “10 to fifteen years ago, been exploring the idea and segmentation winemakers had two cuvees - old vines of crus. As in many places where the same and classic/tradition. A Fleurie grower grape varieties have been grown for a might have six plots, and they would blend Some might be familiar with the 10 crus long time, it becomes known that certain into two cuvees. For around the past four appellations of Beaujolais, even some of spots tend to consistently, despite years, they are doing more single cuvees, the more famous of those names - Fleurie, vintage variation, produce different, or they might blend four plots and have two Morgon, Moulin a Vent. They are all more individual, or more concentrated, single vineyards.” Producers looking for located in the mainly granitic, hilly north of or more aromatic, or denser, etc, parcels increasing specialisation and uniqueness, Beaujolais, butting up against Maconnais. of fruit. And the Beaujolais crus are no lack of replicability, are appealing to different in this respect. consumers who appreciate wines from What may be less well known is that particular spots with unique attributes. 10 years ago an exploration project was Many of these individual plots have started to analyse the soils and geography historical names, which becomes important One of the original ideas of the project of the 10 crus, to build up a better picture for recognition and protection. Naming of had been the possibility of identifying plots of the land, with a view to understanding plots of land, in itself, is nothing new. It’s just that eventually might be elevated to 1er how individual sites (lieux-dits) vary that, for example,“blocks 1, 2 or 3” in 21st cru status (via a lengthy legal application and might influence flavour and quality century parlance, are likely to have ancient process). But, 10 years on, Bourjade in the glass. Applying for premier cru said: “it is not a priority to make 1er cru”. appellation status for some lieux dits was 28 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

Labelling with a few lieux dits, which are sort of replicable special expression of Perfectly known already to be producing top quality place, and not least because these crus balanced. wine is a first step. wines are aged typically for between 17 and 36 months on lees, according to DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, While possible 1er crus may be another individual cru appellation. They are hugely yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. decade or more away, other information different wines from the “usual,” seafood- Our bold service offering is built on from the project is already being used, fresh, light, briny muscadet; you’d almost a full-bodied foundation of vast said Bourjade, to “train winegrowers to not guess you’re tasting the same grape general commercial experience, yet understand and exploit the information, to variety. They are fascinating and, as with overlaid with distinctive specialist make decisions, for example, to change any appellation, some are truly delicious. expertise in a number of key the way they trim their vines, or to change industries and niche market the (planting) density, because higher The big news is that in June this year sectors. density means more humidity.” Traditional four new muscadet crus communaux It’s a winning combination that vine densities in Beaujolais are high, up were announced: Chateau-Thebaud allows every client who opens a to 10,000 vines per hectare, and while (appellation, not individual chateau, “case” to get exactly what they the historic benefit was some reflected confusingly), Goulaine, Monnieres-Saint- need. So whatever your business heat from the ground to counter frost Fiacre and Mouzillon-Tillieres. or legal objectives, don’t hesitate risk, vineyard humidity seems to be an to contact us. increasingly important risk. This is not the beginning of the lengthy At DW Fox Tucker, every evolution of a new muscadet style. These client matters. Some names (lieux-dits) are already well four are added to the first three, which renowned. Cote de Py, for example, is one were created crus appellations in 2011 L14, 100 King William Street of the best-known lieux-dits in Morgon. (Clisson, Gorges, Le Pallet). And there are Adelaide SA 5000 Bourjade said: “the question is whether the another three potential muscadet crus still p: +61 8 8124 1811 whole of Cote de Py might apply for 1er cru, in the wings, working their way towards the or just a part of it,” adding that possibly “the rigours of crus status (Haye-Fouassiere, e: [email protected] best known lieux dits might be unlikely to be Vallet and Champtoceaux). dwfoxtucker.com.au the first to pursue 1er cru”. The implication being that some names are already famous This is undoubtedly an exciting COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES enough and might not need the added development for Muscadet de Sevre ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY kudos of 1er cru on the label. Nothing is et Maine; the wines show a completely ever simple, Italy or France! different expression - fuller, rounder, INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY gunflint, sometimes sweet spice, among RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES The Loire, specifically Nantes - muscadet other things. But it is also the tip of SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS territory - is another region in France the iceberg - altogether they account COMPENSATION working on commune level crus. But for around 1 per cent of all muscadet here, they are working through the wine production, from around 200ha all in, with legislative framework to have new crus 100 growers including at least one in their appellations specifically recognised and ranges. You may have to watch and wait a regulated by law. It’s a lengthy process, while before you see any in Australia. started since at least the 1990s, partly because it takes a long time to prove some November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 29 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY FACING UP TO THE CHANGING ENVIRONMENT IN most workplaces we are told that we lack of it is one of the threats with a changing Phil Reedman. “In hot climates, ideally, the must adapt and be comfortable in a climate. With the relentless pressure soil’s water holding capacity is sufficient “change environment”. The fast moving on the Murray Darling system, grape that you can water at night to lessen the pace of life affects everything we do. producers are looking at other sources. effects of evaporation. Whereas, in the And the same can also be said about the Using desalination/reverse osmosis units Riverland region, many of the soils are profession of growing grapes. Climate to filter out salts in underground water that so free draining that they have no water change, seen through challenging growing would normally be too saline for irrigation, is retention holding capacity and therefore conditions, is forcing viticulturists to one measure being used. Instead of filling need water applying when the vine needs constantly question their approach to dams with water and suffering evaporation, it most, which unfortunately is during the growing healthy grapes. Global warming some producers are using underground day.” “Irrigating in winter when the vine is becoming one of the key factors that is aquafers as a massive storage tank as is dormant or early spring might sound driving what kind of wines we drink. another measure. It’s a technique known dumb but the idea is to top up the winter rainfall and get the water deep into the soil South Australia is regarded, rightly so, as Securing water is the so the roots can draw upon it during the the “Wine State” and it is at the forefront growing season,” he said. Investing in deep of producing the volume that we will need number-one priority for mulch, straw or cover crops is also vital in to satisfy the booming Chinese market. protecting the soil from losing its moisture. In a speech at the 2019 Australian Wine any viticultural venture Industry Technical Conference, wine The impact of global warming is also industry heavyweight Warren Randall, and the lack of it is one evident in the rapid physiological ripening chairman of the Randall Group, said the rise of the grapes and often means the harvest of “China’s middle class - the consuming of the threats with a period is short and frantic. It also explains class - is exploding”. It will be this market partially why Clare Valley riesling tastes that will provide the challenge for Australia changing climate. different from riesling grapes grown, in as “we will not have enough wine to satisfy say, the Mosel in Germany. To get ripe China’s thirst,” commented Randall. Such as ASR (Aquifer Storage and Recovery) In skins and stalks you need a long hang is the optimism for future exports that there the Barossa Valley there is now a system time, in other words a long, dry autumn is a gold rush feeling about the industry of pipes and dams that supply storm water where the grapes slowly ripen. With hotter at present. Randall is racing to meet the from the Gawler River. Because the river temperatures ripeness happens quickly expected demand. Not only does he own is dry an average of three out of 10 years with decrease in acidity and increase in Barossa Valley’s Seppeltsfield Estate as Adelaide treated and recycled grey water sugar. The grapes must be picked before well as the premium bulk wine company from the Bolivar treatment facility is used their baume level becomes too high to Tinlins, he has Ryecroft Wines in McLaren as a supplementary supply. produce a balanced, fresh, light-bodied Vale and Quelltaler Estate in the Clare, style of riesling. Retention of natural acidity where this year he purchased over 300ha Once you have the water you then is preferred over having to add acid in the of farmland to plant more vineyards. have to use it judiciously. In a climate winery. Riesling grapes contain tart natural change environment understanding the malic as well as tartaric acid. Sam Barry, So to try and prepare for this explosion terroir of a site and adapting the use from Jim Barry Wines, explained this on a of demand for South Australian premium of resources is critical. “Soil moisture tour of his family vineyards. “In the Clare grapes, producers like Randall, are looking monitoring is essential so you can irrigate malic acid quickly burns off during the at alternative ways of supplying water to with optimum efficiency,” comments wine day in the hot weather, so Clare rieslings them. Securing water is the number-one business consultant and Master of Wine have low levels of malic and a high level priority for any viticultural venture and the 30 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

of tartaric acid,” he said. “But in the Mosel Uniquely it retains it a lot better and therefore you Yorke get a different acid profile between the two Peninsula wines.” Having that higher level of malic acid gives the German wines their racy, Cellar Door and Function Centre green apple flavours as well as being used Open 7 days 10am-5pm to hide residual sugar which helps build texture and complexity. Maitland, South Australia Phone (08) 8834 1258 Grafting over or planting varieties that are better suited to climate change is the barleystackswines.com most direct way of facing the problem and can be a profitable way forward. Varieties like vermentino and nero d’avola have the right attributes to handle the heat and are drought tolerant. Travelling around South Australia you soon get to realise these “new” varieties are making their mark. Negroamaro and touriga nacional are also on the rise for the same reasons. The Greek white assyrtiko is being pioneered by Jim Barry Wines and if there is one grape variety that can stand a drought it is this one. It originates from the island of Santorini which doesn’t see rainfall for eight months of the year. In our fair dinkum Aussie tradition of shortening words, nero d’avola is simply being labelled as “nero”. In the hot spikes that have been experienced in South Australia in recent summers these Mediterranean varieties continue respiration and photosynthesis at high temperatures, while other traditional grape varieties shut down. Fortunately for South Australia our traditional grenache is already equipped to deal with the heat and is experiencing a welcome renaissance. November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 31

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING MARSEILLES MAKES THE MOST OF ITS FISHY PAST MARSEILLES, France’s second largest tomatoes, spices and fish odds-and-ends a performance as a meal. The raw city, has been trying to shake off its and strained before serving. The rouille, shellfish starter is followed by fish fillets shady reputation for decades. The gritty the traditional chilli-spiked sauce that in saffron broth and a dense soup with city never acquired the moneyed glitz of accompanies bouillabaisse, and the view several types of fish and tiny crabs. The the rest of the Cote d’Azur, but over the from the terrace are the stuff of south of traditional Michelin advice - worth the past few years the tide has truly turned. France fantasies. trip - really rings true at Le Petit Nice. Ships are pulling into the huge cruise terminal again, tourism has risen 15 per Six types of whole fish Other top choices for anyone in search cent and ambitious buildings designed of a great bouillabaisse include Le by some of the world’s star architects are are marinated in a blend Miramar. The restaurant was a founder springing up everywhere. member of the Charte de la Bouillabaisse, of white wine, olive oil a group of 11 local restaurateurs who The foodie highlight of this year is codified the ingredients and techniques Marseilles Gastronomy 2019, a blowout of and garlic. The stock that constitute a true bouillabaisse in the 1000 events highlighting local produce, 1980s. Wine from Cassis is a speciality the record-breaking number of Michelin- is rich with fennel, here because the area overlooks the starred restaurants in the region and rocky inlets that supply the best fish for farm to fork markets. The city’s culinary tomatoes, spices and the storied dish. gift to the world is bouillabaisse, the fish stew/soup developed over the centuries fish odds-and-ends and Chez Fonfon is located in the 7th by local fisherman who originally used quartier, a couple of kilometres from seafood they couldn't sell. The Vieux strained before serving. the main waterfront. The restaurant has Port area is riddled with restaurants been serving bouillabaisse for over 50 offering “authentic” bouillabaisse in But the man who is the flag bearer and years and has the recipe down pat. For several languages, but there are a lot unofficial ambassador for bouillabaisse those who love a modern twist, L’Aromat of travesties and second-rate versions. is Gerald Passedat, the chef/owner is a chic bistro offering a bouillabaisse of the Michelin 3 star restaurant and burger - fish fillet, tomato and rouille on On a tip from a friend, I headed slightly boutique hotel, Le Petit Nice. Dining focaccia with a shot of rich fish soup on out of town to Goudes, a tiny fishing village here is expensive and should be booked the side. that is home to L’Espai du Grand Bar des well in advance. But Passedat’s My Goudes. The chef, Christophe Thullier, Bouille Baisse, as he calls his refined, Cultural developments have also prides himself on his classic version of deconstructed version, is as much revived the tourist fortunes of Marseilles. bouillabaisse. Six types of whole fish are Fort St Jean, built between the 14th and marinated in a blend of white wine, olive 17th centuries, has been revamped as a oil and garlic. The stock is rich with fennel, public space and a climb to the top of the battlements yields panoramic views of 32 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. the Mediterranean and the cityscape. A is as notable for its contemporary kitsch Winestate Magazine footbridge connects the fort to MuCEM, nautical decor and laidback tattooed @WinestateEd a state-of-the-art museum outlining the staff as it is for its modern take on history of Marseilles and its trading links Provencal seafood. Fresh-as oysters, sea back to the ancient Greeks who founded urchins, calamari and prawns dunked the city as Massilia. Even if you don't in aioli are hard-to-resist. A two-course have time for the 21 other museums in lunch with a glass of local wine will set Marseilles, a visit to this futuristic cube- you back about $75 for two. like building colloquially known as J-4 shouldn’t be missed. Artists and musicians have also flocked to Marseilles. There’s even a local Cite Radieuse was designed by Le version of rap and hip-hop. Don’t Corbusier and the Brutalist complex fancy that? Then take a deep dive into achieved World Heritage status in 2016. nostalgia at La Caravelle in the Hotel An apartment building in the main, Belle Vue. Founded as a jazz club in several areas are open to architecture the 1930s, a trio of suave 70-something buffs, including a rooftop art gallery musicians on the saxophone, piano during the summer months, a bookshop and xylophone keep up the pre-World and the Hotel Corbusier, where you can War II vibe and the tiny outdoor terrace sip a sundowner or local beer at the Le overlooks the Vieux Port. Ventre de l’Architecte restaurant and bar. Like Sydney, Marseilles offers ferry trips The Vieux Port really is old, dating to nearby islands in the Frioul Archipelago. back more than 2500 years in some One of which is, where you can visit the form or other. Like the Plaka in Athens, ruins of a 16th century prison which it is an over-touristy but must-visit part inspired the Aexandre Dumas novel, The of town. The narrow streets are full of Count of Monte Cristo. That’s when you shops selling artisanal crafts, olive realise that you have come to the “right” oils, Provencal soaps and lotions, and end of the French Riviera. restaurants. We stayed at the Hotel Sofitel which is reasonably priced for the standard of comfort and offers the best views of the Vieux Port - no argument. Hip young chefs have flocked to the city over the past decade. La Boite a Sardine November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 33

DAN TRAUCKI MENTION the Loire to most Australian wine co-operatives. I say “only”, because in most The Loire’s production is currently split into drinkers and if you are lucky a few may regions in Europe co-ops are a big thing, 41 per cent white wine, 24 per cent rosé, 21 say muscadet or vouvray, and some may making wine from the grapes grown by per cent red wine and 14 per cent sparkling. mention sancerre and/or chenin blanc, but hundreds of small grape growers. The Loire Of this 20 per cent is exported and the rest that is about it. It is akin to asking American Valley is the third largest vineyard region sold domestically. They are trying to increase drinkers about the Barossa, to which the in France. There are four main different export sales because France is drinking less reply would be, shiraz, whereas in both wine growing regions within the officially wine each year. cases there is so much more on offer than designated “Loire Valley”. From west to east just the afore mentioned. they are, Nantes, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine This reduction in consumption is in part due and Centre-Loire. Each has a number of to the migration of people from rural areas to Recently I had the opportunity to visit the AOP (Appellation Origine Protegee) or IGP cities. In the rural areas wine has always been beautiful Loire Valley with a trip to the regional (Indication Geographique Protegee) adding an integral part of most meals, whereas in the capital Nantes. Here with typical French up to a total of 51 across the valley - and cities, it is not. City dwellers are much more clarity the complicated and confusing system they are currently working on increasing casual wine drinkers due to their more frenetic of region/quality controls that they use, were this number by a few more. So in reality it is lifestyle. In addition there is a considerable explained and “simplified”. Therefore this more like the equivalent of looking at a wine anti-alcohol push happening in France. article will endeavour to clarify, to some producing country than just a single region. The current per capita wine consumption in extent, this complex situation. It would take quite a thick book to explain this France of 42.5 litres, while not the highest in complex tapestry of wine with all its different the world (that honour goes to the Vatican City) So let’s kick off with the fact that the lush rules and regulations. The aim here is to make is still huge in global terms, especially when Loire Valley has around 57,200ha of vines it a bit simpler to understand and appreciate. compared to Australia’s 9.7 litres per capita. (Barossa - 10,350ha) run by around 6200 grape growers and includes only 16 wine France’s main export market is the USA 34 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

A L uonitroethemselves From the outside, France’s Loire Valley is ruled by a complex range of regulations. Above: Saumur castle and Loire River, Loire Valley, France. Saumur Castle was built in the tenth century and rebuilt in the late twelfth century. It is now owned by the city and is one of the most famous castles of the Loire Valley. followed by the UK (subject to Brexit), muscadet comes from low yielding, usually years old, this wine will easily age for up to Canada and the Netherlands. The two target very old vines, has spent at least 18 months a decade more. Another fascinating wine markets they are focusing on are China and on lees (“sur lies”), and up to 24 months on was the Vignerons du Pallet “Jubilation” Australia, with Australia currently accounting lees, sometimes even longer. All the wines 2014, from the “Le Pallet” Cru. A smashing for 4 per cent of their exports. are aged in underground concrete tanks, wine from a co-op of 10 small independent where the ground temperature is constant all producers who each produce their own OK, so down to exploring and understanding year round. There is no oak barrel maturation wine, which is then blended together to the Valley. Starting in the west with the first within the Cru. The quality that comes from make up the co-op’s final wine. Another region, Nantes. This is the most maritime of the attention to detail that is given to these interesting thing about this minute, superb the Valley’s regions and they call themselves wines was evident in a tasting of three quality co-op is that the producers did not “coastal winegrowers” due to the strong wines from each of the 10 Cru that was form the co-op until after their region had influence of the Atlantic Ocean on their area. conducted at an oyster farm. The youngest received its Crus Communaux accreditation Nantes has seven AOP and is the home of current release wine was 2015, while the in 2007. The Nantes region is also home to the world-renowned, muscadet wines, made oldest was 2010. Each wine had its own the quaint Italian-styled town of Clisson, and predominantly from melon and a small amount individual character such as the Domaine its spectacular castle which started life as a of rolle blanc. A fascinating microcosm of this du Moulin Camus 2012 from the “Vallet” fortress in the 11th century. It was extended region is the “Muscadet Crus Communaux”, Cru. This is a superb wine which had been over the next few centuries to become a of which there are 10. There are about 100 matured on lees for 30 months, has masses massive and imposing centre of local power. winegrowers who cultivate around 200ha of complexity, smoothness and yet still has Sadly, it was burned to the ground by the across these “10” Crus Communaux. What the steely backbone that characterises great Republicans during the French revolution. makes them stand out and have their own Muscadet Sur-Lies. Although already seven It is said that the ruins smouldered for a Crus Communaux is the fact that all of their November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 35

While the Loire Valley is very complex and and 13 per cent rosé. The area has 1600 somewhat confusing having more AOP and IGP winegrowers and 11 co-ops, and they sell than Australia has wine growing regions, their around 59 million bottles of wine a year. In wines are delightful, fresh, vibrant and ready to 2017 growers in this region suffered up to 50 be enjoyed young, especially with seafood. per cent losses due to the disastrous weather. Luckily the 2018 vintage was much kinder. month. However, today the ruins are still different varieties. Half awe inspiring. Just north east of Clisson, in the production in Anjou The whites from Vouvray are almost La Regrippiere, I visited the one outpost of is dedicated to rosé with exclusively made from chenin blanc and modernity at Les Freres Couillaud Chateau the Rosé d’Anjou being with over 2000ha planted, it is the largest -La Ragotiere where they were bottling their made predominantly chenin blanc growing region in France. excellent white wines under screw cap. Some from grolleau and with This versatile white variety is used to make of their wines are available in Australia from some cabernet franc. wines ranging from methode champenoise www.winegoblet.com.au. The slightly sweet, sparkling wines, such as the brilliant, bone Cabernet d’Anjou Rosé, dry, Vouvray Fines Bulles Domaine Gilles Travelling east, the next region is Anjou- is made from cabernet Gaudron 2015 ‘Symphonie’ which has no Saumur with its 21 AOP and IGP. It should sauvignon. A good dosage at all. Then through to dry, still wines really be classified as two separate regions example of this style like the magnificently delicious Domaine because they are quite different from each is the Robert et Marcel du Margalleau 2015 Vouvray and the lively, other. In Saumur they make it simple, in Vive la Loire 2018 vibrant, Chateau Moncontour 2018 Vouvray that all their red wines are made from Rosé d’Anjou, which Sec, and to semi-sweet wines right up to cabernet franc. Here it makes delicious, is silky-smooth, very intensely sweet, botrytis affected dessert juicy, fruity wines that are great to enjoy tasty and is available wines and the occasional fortified wine. while young, such as the divine Domaine in Australia from Saint Landor 2016. An absolutely cracking www.bacchuswinemerchant.com.au. In the Touraine region most of the red cabernet franc. Equally, most of the region’s Gamay and pinot noir are also thrown in wine is made from cabernet franc with red wines will cellar well to produce very to the varietal mix for the rosé wines from some gamay. They produce lively, juicy, elegant, silky-smooth wines with fantastic other parts of Anjou. ready to drink wines, and more excitingly flavours, like the Chateau Fouquet Les For the white wines of this region, there an increasing number of growers are Douzes Futs 2011 which is still remarkably is one of the AOP that really stands out - producing excellent wines from cot. Cot fresh and young for an eight-year-old. By Savennieres where the wines are made is what the French call malbec. These contrast, in Anjou there are 27 different from chenin blanc. The wines from the wines are quite different to the malbec products allowed across a number of 18 producers involved with the tasting I from Cahors which is its ancestral home. attended were all very good, tasty white Here the malbec is purple in colour wines. A couple of the exceptional wines for rather that the almost black in Cahors. me were the Domaine Ogereau Savennieres It makes gorgeous, lively, alluring wines ‘L’Enthousiasme 2016 which was lively, well- which are either straight varietal or with balanced with a nice, refreshingly crisp finish. a smidge of cabernet franc added. Whereas the Chateau de la Soucherie Clos Some of the wines are unoaked, while des Perrieres Savennieres 2015 was well- many have seen a short time on oak. All rounded, elegant and silky-smooth. the examples tasted were very good, The region’s red wines are mainly made attractive wines with a few stand-outs from cabernet franc and are juicy, lively and such as the Xavier Frissant - La Griffe very easy drinking. d’Isa 2016. This wine is made from 100 The Touraine region, which is centred on the per cent malbec, is oak matured, has town of Tours, has 18 AOP and IGP of which fragrant, floral aromatics, fabulous purity Vouvray, Chinon and Cremant de Loire are of fruit and great structure. A superb wine the best known. Their production is made in the bigger style. Whereas the Domaine up of 36 per cent red wine, followed by 35 de Chapitre Brin d’epice 2017 is an per cent white wine, 16 per cent sparkling excellent example of the lighter, brighter version of malbec - juicy, delicious and tight on the finish. The only negative for these excellent wines is that the region insists on promoting them as cot, which most wine drinkers around the world have not heard of, rather than promoting them as an alternative malbec to the Argentine 36 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

Previous page: Bottles at Muscadet Crus Communaux tasting. Top: Vineyard Chateau de La Roche Aux Moines. style. So, instead of piggy-backing on to Middle: Exterior of castle Chateau de Clisson. Bottom: Tasting of Cote de Loire Blanc & Anjou Rose in Nantes. the success of Argentine malbec, they are going to try to persuade the whole world to drink their unknown cot. The Chinon AOC is predominantly reds and rosé with very little white wine produced. The reds are almost entirely cabernet franc, however, they are allowed to add up to 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon to their wines. While not included in this visit, the final region of the Loire Valley is the Centre-Loire with its 14 AOP and IGP of which Sancerre is by far the best known. Other “known” areas in this region include Pouilly-Fume, Pouilly- sur-Loire and Quincy. Not surprisingly, 82 per cent of the region’s production is white wine made predominantly from chenin blanc. It is from here that chenin’s reputation as a high quality, versatile variety originated. The long and the short of it is that the vintners of the Loire Valley have over the last few years focused much more on quality and sustainability than in the volume of production. The number of organic growers is rising steadily and there is a real passion for biodynamics in the Valley. While the Loire Valley is very complex and somewhat confusing having more AOP and IGP than Australia has wine growing regions, their wines are delightful, fresh, vibrant and ready to be enjoyed young, especially with seafood. Yet many of them, red, white and even sparkling have the capacity to age well over prolonged periods, as proven by the 1989 and 1976 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie served at one of the superb seafood dinners I sampled. So if by any chance you are visiting France in the near future, I recommend finding a way to fit in a visit to the Loire. A comfortable three- hour TVG (high speed train) ride from Paris, this area has magnificent scenery. I saw more green there in three days that I had seen in Australia in the last three months. The seafood is sensational, fresh out of the Atlantic Ocean, and the wines are a perfect match. If not, then I suggest that you go and explore your local bottle shop to see which of the gems from this exciting and dynamic wine region they have in stock. Like everywhere else in the wine world, some wines are better than others, however you can be quite confident that any bottle you pick up that says “Loire Valley” on the label will be good, interesting drinking. November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 37

lbarino Alvarinho Arinto Chenin Blanc Arneis Clairette Cortese Fiano Assyrtiko Ape rontignac Friulano Gewurztraminer Greco Gruner Veltliner Macabeo Marsanne Petit not Blanc Pinot Grigio/Gris Roussanne savagnin SCHONBURGER verdejo verdelho verd ermentino Viognier Aglianico Barbera Blaufrankisch BLUE IMPERIAL Cabernet Franc C nsaut Dolcetto Durif Gamay Graciano Lagrein Malbec MaTARO Mencia Monastrell Mo ourvedre Nebbiolo Nero D’Avola Petit Syrah/petite sirah Petit Verdot Pinot Meunier efosco Rondinella sagrantino sangiovese SAPERAVI SCHIOPPETTINO TANNAT TEMPRANILL OURIGA TRINCADEIRA Tinto Roriz touriga nacional ZINFANDEL/PRIMITIVO PROSECCO Albar rinto Chenin Blanc Arneis Clairette Cortese Fiano Assyrtiko Apera viognier Frontign ewurztraminer Greco Gruner Veltliner Macabeo Marsanne Petit Manseng Pinot Blan rigio/Gris Roussanne savagnin SCHONBURGER verdejo verdelho verduzzo vermentino glianico Barbera Blaufrankisch BLUE IMPERIAL Cabernet Franc Carmenère Cinsaut Do S T E P P I N Gamay Graciano Lagrein Malbec MaTARO Mencia Monastrell Montepulciano Mourvedre ero D’Avola Petit Syrah/petite sirah Petit Verdot Pinot Meunier pinotage Refosco Ron agrantino sangiovese SAPERAVI SCHIOPPETTINO TANNAT TEMPRANILLO teroldego TOURIGA I N T O T H Ento Roriz touriga nacional ZINFANDEL/PRIMITIVO PROSECCO Albarino Alvarinho Arinto rneis Clairette Cortese Fiano Assyrtiko Apera viognier Frontignac Friulano Gewurzt reco Gruner Veltliner Macabeo Marsanne Petit Manseng Pinot Blanc Pinot Grigio/Gr avagnin SCHONBURGER verdejo verdelho verduzzo vermentino Viognier Aglianico Barb S P O T L I G H Tlaufrankisch BLUE IMPERIAL Cabernet Franc Carmenère Cinsaut Dolcetto Durif Gamay agrein Malbec MaTARO Mencia Monastrell Montepulciano Mourvedre Nebbiolo Nero D yrah/petite sirah Petit Verdot Pinot Meunier pinotage Refosco Rondinella sagrantin APERAVI SCHIOPPETTINO TANNAT TEMPRANILLO teroldego TOURIGA TRINCADEIRA Tinto Roriz acional ZINFANDEL/PRIMITIVO PROSECCO Albarino Alvarinho Arinto Chenin Blanc Arnei ortese Fiano Assyrtiko Apera viognier Frontignac Friulano Gewurztraminer Greco Gr eltliner Macabeo Marsanne Petit Manseng Pinot Blanc Pinot Grigio/Gris Roussanne s CHONBURGER verdejo verdelho verduzzo vermentino Viognier Aglianico Barbera Blau LUE IMPERIAL Cabernet Franc Carmenère Cinsaut Dolcetto Durif Gamay Graciano Lagr aTARO Mencia Monastrell Montepulciano Mourvedre Nebbiolo Nero D’Avola Petit Syr rah Petit Verdot Pinot Meunier pinotage Refosco Rondinella sagrantino sangiovese CHIOPPETTINO TANNAT TEMPRANILLO teroldego TOURIGA TRINCADEIRA Tinto Roriz touriga NFANDEL/PRIMITIVO PROSECCO Albarino Alvarinho Arinto Chenin Blanc Arneis Clairett ano Assyrtiko Apera viognier Frontignac Friulano Gewurztraminer Greco Gruner Ve acabeo Marsanne Petit Manseng Pinot Blanc Pinot Grigio/Gris Roussanne savagnin S erdejo verdelho verduzzo vermentino Viognier Aglianico Barbera Blaufrankisch BLU abernet Franc Carmenère Cinsaut Dolcetto Durif Gamay Graciano Lagrein Malbec Ma onastrell Montepulciano Mourvedre Nebbiolo Nero D’Avola Petit Syrah/petite sirah 38 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

TATE MAG WINES AZINE WINESTATE TURNS THE FOCUS ON EMERGING VARIETALS WITH ITS ANNUAL AWARDS. DAN TRAUCKI YOU may recall that last year Winestate from no more than 35 to 40 varieties. most of the rest of the world, and certainly launched the Emerging Variety Awards The global trend has been toward using in Europe, it is illegal to plant grape (EVAs) sensationally with 399 entries less non-mainstream varieties, as many varieties that have not been approved into this exciting, consumer-focused countries have jumped on, for example, by either the government or the regional wine competition. The EVAs specifically the shiraz bandwagon, due to Australia’s wine controlling body. Right now there is a concentrate on wines made from the success with this once almost forgotten big to-do in France because the growers “emerging” grape varieties - those (internationally) variety. If you went back of Bordeaux have been given approval varieties that are outside the mainstream 20 to 30 years, you would be hard pressed by their government to add seven new or “classic varieties”. Yet they are capable to find a syrah (the name given to shiraz varieties to the varieties that they are of producing exciting wines which are by the old wine world) labelled wine from “permitted” to grow in the region. Great emerging to possibly become superstars anywhere outside of Australia and New news. Except, it can only be these varieties in their own right sometime in the future. To Zealand. Today, you can buy syrah from and no others. So, if somebody planted put it into context, one must remember that Chile, Argentina, Spain, Italy, France, shiraz in Bordeaux they would have their in the latter part of the 1970s and into the the US and a raft of other countries. vines ripped out and they would be carted 1980s chardonnay was an emerging grape The same has been happening globally off to jail. Also, the new varieties cannot variety is Australia, as was sauvignon blanc with chardonnay, cabernet, merlot and cover more than 10 per cent of the vineyard, in the late 1980s and early 1990s. sauvignon blanc. nor can they (in total) exceed 10 per cent of the blend of the final wine. Wow, what a Most of the world’s wine (around 85 per The Australian wine industry is busy great step forward in fighting the effects of cent) is made from the top 25 most popular swimming against that tide, with more new climate change to their region! grape varieties, yet as Jancis Robinson et varieties being introduced each year. Only al state in their book on grape varieties, recently Clare Valley winery, Matriarch & In keeping with Australia’s evolving vinous Wine Grapes, there are 1168 different Rogue, produced its first vintage of the landscape, Winestate conducts the annual grape varieties used to make wine on Portuguese white variety fernao pire, Emerging Variety Awards (EVAs). planet earth. Some of which have up to 50 and the deeply coloured Spanish red different names across the globe. In actual variety prieto picudo, which as far as I The EVAs are very much a consumer- fact there are more varieties used than this, am aware are the first wines made from focused wine judging that aims to discover as I have tasted wines made from at least these varieties in Australia and probably the best wines made from emerging grape five different Chinese varieties which are the southern hemisphere. Tank samples varieties and to present them to wine not listed in their book. of the first vintage of both of these wines consumers in a road show. This year the were smashing and I am sure that over time consumer tastings were conducted at the The Australian wine industry is the most as more wineries produce these excellent National Wine Centre in Adelaide, at the “experimental” on the planet as it makes varieties, they will have a bright future on RACV Club in Melbourne and Sydney, wine from 154 grape varieties (and that the Australian wine scene. with plans to add Brisbane and Perth in figure is still rising) despite having only the future. three native varieties (created by the In Australia we do not think it is a big CSIRO). Other than countries like Georgia deal if the grower next door plants some In the context of the EVAs, emerging and Greece with a plethora of indigenous rare or exotic grape variety, however, it is varieties do not necessarily have to just varieties, most countries make their wine a big deal elsewhere in the wine world. In be varieties that are recent arrivals, such as verdejo, vermentino or gruner veltliner November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 39

in white wines, and saperavi, lagrein or fortified wines to producing table wines, blaufrankisch in the reds. They can and many producers tried to imitate the should also include varieties that have famous wines of Europe. This meant that been around for a long time but for some many cabernet sauvignon growers were reason have not caught the attention trying hard to imitate Bordeaux, while of wine drinkers. Marsanne is a perfect shiraz growers mimicked the grand wines example of this. Tahbilk has been growing of Hermitage in France, even to the extent marsanne since 1927 but is an emerging of calling their shiraz wine hermitage. The variety because the vast majority of few pinot growers that were in Australia Australian wine drinkers aren’t aware of it. at the time tried to imitate burgundy. As Likewise in the reds with durif, the flagship/ the industry has matured and outgrown hero variety of Rutherglen, where Morris those days it now produces Australian Wines has been producing it as a straight expressions of cabernet sauvignon, varietal since 1954. Unfortunately it is still shiraz and pinot noir, etc. relatively unknown to the majority of Aussie wine drinkers, to the extent that over the This is also happening with these new last year I have met two South Australian emerging varieties. Yes, there are some winemakers who had never tasted a durif. that are being made in the “same old” methods used for cabernet and shiraz, but A few of these new emerging varieties most producers are respecting the variety are destined for greater visibility and and treating it as it should be treated to greatness as they will really take-off like derive the maximum from the variety, in gruner veltliner (gruner) is currently doing. a similar fashion to the way it is handled The first Australian gruner was made by in its native land. In some cases the Canberra’s Lark Hill Wines in 2009, followed Australian expression of the variety is more closely by Adelaide Hills-based Hahndorf consumer friendly when young - grapes Hill Wines the next year. Today there are 45 ripen more in the increased sunshine and growers across the country, mainly in the the resulting wines are not as acidic. This Adelaide Hills, but also in the Queensland makes the wine more approachable as a Granite Belt, the cooler parts of New South youngster, which is more appropriate in Wales and Victoria, as well as Tasmania. So these impatient days of “instant everything” from two growers to 45 in just nine years where 85 per cent of wine is consumed is explosive growth in the slow moving/ within 48 hours of being purchased. changing wine industry. See page 88 for the complete EVAs Most emerging varieties will never results, however, here are some general become superstars, they will just tick observations from this year’s event. along without sudden explosive increases or even much gradual growth in plantings. The variety with the most number of Nonetheless, they will still be creating entries was tempranillo with 44 entries. It enjoyment for the small band of consumers was divided into two classes - 2017 and who try and appreciate them, thereby 2018 vintages. Each produced a 5-star helping to further the diversity of Australian rated wine, with the La La Land Tempranillo grapes and wines. in the 2017 class and the Billy Button The Alluring in the 2018. Interestingly, both The majority of these exciting new wines came from Victoria. varietal wines are being made as a real “Aussie expression” of the variety In the sparkling wines, the top wine was a from its land of origin, rather than as a sparkling red, the Gapsted Wines Limited “copycat” wine. In earlier days - 1960s to Release Sparkling Saperavi (again from 1980s - when the Australian industry was Victoria), an exceptional wine that would changing from making predominantly make an old Georgian (native country) happy and proud. 40 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

Albarino Alvarinho Arinto Chenin Blanc Arneis Claire Cortese Fiano Assyrtiko Ap viognier Frontignac Friula Gewurztraminer Greco Gru Veltliner Macabeo Marsan Petit Manseng Pinot Blanc Grigio/Gris Roussanne sav The most successful class was SCHONBURGER verdejo verd gruner veltliner in which 13 out The Australian wine verduzzo vermentino Viog of the 16 entries scored three stars or better. Both the industry is the most Aglianico Barbera Blaufra Centennial Vineyards 2018 Reserve Gruner Veltliner, ‘experimentacious’ BLUE IMPERIAL Cabernet Fr from the NSW highlands on the planet as it makesCarmenère Cinsaut Dolcet and the 2018 K1 Wines wine from 154 grape Durif Gamay Graciano Lagr Gruner Veltliner from the varieties (and that figureMalbec MaTARO Mencia Mon Adelaide Hills scoring Montepulciano Mourvedre five stars. is still rising) despite Nero D’Avola Petit Syrah/p having only three sirah Petit Verdot Pinot M Another class that native varieties. pinotage Refosco Rondinel stood out was cabernet franc, which showed that winemakers are becoming more adept at handling this elegant variety, which is one of the parents of cabernet sauvignon; the other being sauvignon blanc, hence the sagrantino sangiovese SAP progeny being called cabernet franc. SCHIOPPETTINO TANNAT TEMP Malbec also stood out with seven out of the 10 entries being rated three stars teroldego TOURIGA TRINCAD or better. Repeating last year’s result, the sweet Roriz touriga nacional ZIN whites & fortified class was solid, with five PRIMITIVO PROSECCO Albari out of eight entries being rated. The two top Alvarinho Arinto Chenin B wines - petit manseng and marsanne - were both sweet whites. Just as the Australian food palate has Arneis Clairette Cortese F outgrown the old “meat and three veg” Assyrtiko Apera viognier F meals of the 1950s and gone on to Friulano Gewurztraminer encompass an array of amazing foods from Gruner Veltliner Macabeo all around the world, we are in the process of doing the same vinously, with just under 50 per cent of Australian wineries today producing at least one wine from emerging Petit Manseng Pinot Blanc varieties. Grigio/Gris Roussanne sav SCHONBURGER verdejo verd Go out and try these new and exciting emerging wines and become involved in the Australian wine industry’s emerging evolution. Out of this vast array of “new” verduzzo vermentino Viog wines you will find some that will really Aglianico Barbera Blaufra please your palate while enriching your BLUE IMPERIAL Cabernet Fr drinking repertoire. Carmenère Cinsaut Dolcet Durif Gamay Graciano Lagr November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 41

42 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

PAYING BACK A decades old favour from another generation, repaid a few years ago, has allowed Morris Wines to reach its 160-year milestone. JENI PORT THERE were doubts that Morris Wines Ricard) back in 2007, taken off the market “He bought the farm where the winery is would be in one piece to celebrate its a year or so later, only to be placed back now in 1965, and by the late ’60s my father 160th birthday. on it by Pernod Ricard in 2016. needed some money. Things weren’t going so well and so he went to a large Griffith But, here it is, turning 160 this year. Fortunately, an influential member of wine company and I think they refused, Indeed, there were doubts that the the Australian wine industry, a man who and then he went to David’s (David Morris’) Rutherglen winery, one of the greatest took wines to the world and helped build grandfather who gave him the money. fortified wine producers in the country Australia’s export wine profile in the US, felt with five generations of the Morris family strongly about the future of Morris Wines. “I remember my mother telling me more having headed the winemaking, would than once that story. have seen 150, such has been the nature “My father was a cane cutter between of its ownership during the last decade. the cane fields of Queensland and Griffith, “When the time came that Morris was It was first put up for sale by its (then) and settled in Griffith in the early ’60s,” for sale (I believe) it had had a part in owner Orlando Wines (now part of Pernod remembers John Casella, of Casella Wines, Casella Wines, it had a part in our past, based in Griffith. and I thought there is no way they (Pernod November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 43

Ricard) are going to disband it or destroy this old winery.” And so in 2016 Morris Wines was welcomed into the Casella Wines winemaking family. For David Morris, long-time winemaker and manager, the new ownership has brought a welcome reprieve and wines that he was working on to celebrate the 150th can now be fully realised and have a future. An icon range of wines - CHM - named after David’s father, Charles (Mick) Henry Morris, which emerged back around the 150th is now growing. Shiraz and durif have been associated with the Morris name for decades, and when CHM Shiraz 2007 was released a little while back it felt like a long-time overdue recognition of the grape. This year after an interruption brought on by the on-again-off-again sale of Morris we see the second release of a CHM Shiraz from the outstanding 2013 vintage. It is partnered by a CHM 2013 Durif. Traditionally both styles have been rich and full flavoured, and have made use of a winemaking apparatus close to the 44 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

When the time came that Morris was for sale (I believe) it had had a part in Casella Wines, it had a part in our past, and I thought there is no way they are going to disband it or destroy this old winery. heart of David Morris - the basket press. blending, he adds that he can’t be sure of Morris Wines has three basket presses installed, all hand-turned, and David the complete makeup of the wine. sees them as indispensable to his style of winemaking, especially when it comes There are 160 bottles made at $90 a bottle to tannin management. to celebrate the Morris 160th. “I grew up with basket presses,” he says, “and I remember at the very end of Like he has done regularly since he retired the cycle the wines were pitch black but they had a softness and a flavour about in 1993, Mick Morris, now 91, continues to them.” It’s something special, he adds, that modern continuous presses simply join his son at the blending bench for all can’t bring to wine. of the big calls on style and quality at the In a move that is sure to please many a fortified wine drinker, Morris Wines end of each vintage. Soon they might be (which just quietly has some of the oldest working soleras in the country), has joined by David’s son, Matthew, who works finally elevated its fortified tawny into the top tier, placing it on level pegging with at Casella Wines in Griffith, but has plans to its Old Premium Muscat and Topaque. eventually return to the Rutherglen winery. In keeping with Australian and Morris tradition, the main grape used is not a It’s something David Morris did not ever Portuguese variety but shiraz. expect to see when he was dealing with “There’s a bit of durif and touriga in there, too,” adds David, although with a disinterested ownership which did not an average age of 28 years and with a selection of super old stocks used in the see a future for the wines he was making, especially fortifieds, or for Morris Wines. He becomes emotional when referring to those times. “I would very much like to thank John and the Casella family for keeping our doors open,” he says. “It was pretty close at the time, yeah, so it’s great to have a (160th) celebration. “The doors are open and we are going forward.” November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 45

GIN CITIES JOY WALTERFANG FIFTEEN years ago you would have been struggling to find an His grandfather, Alan Robb “Hick” Hickinbotham, was the Physical Australian made boutique gin. Fast forward to 2015; Melbourne and Chemical Science lecturer at Roseworthy Agricultural College. hosts the inaugural Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. By the time A brilliant teacher and researcher, he was responsible for the the 2016 awards came around Aussie handcrafted gins showed introduction of Australia’s first Diploma in Oenology (winemaking) the largest growth of all the spirit categories with 44 entries. This course launched at the college in 1936. The list of his students year, 2019, judges were presented with 168 of that juniper-flavoured reads like a Who’s Who of the Australian wine industry - names white spirit, reflecting the topsy-like growth of gin distillers in like Burge, Chaffey, Woodroofe, Seppelt, Angove, Buller, Hardy, Australia. The catalyst for this gin explosion happened in 2006 Knappstein, Barry, Basedow, Collett roll off the tongue - and the with the revoking of the archaic 1901 Distillation Act that outlawed list goes on! the use of small stills to ensure only large commercial enterprises could distill spirits. Michael’s father, also an Alan, continued Hick’s wine legacy in the ’70s by purchasing a vineyard at Clarendon in McLaren In order for a white distilled spirit to be called gin, the basic flavour Vale’s high country. Initially it started out as a family pursuit must be derived from the juniper berry, however the actual amount but over the next 40 years, with the involvement of Michael used of that pine-like ingredient is entirely at the distiller’s discretion. and especially his brother David, it became a beautiful 154ha It is the botanicals that set gins apart from each other and can vineyard identified by Robert Parker as one of the world’s great define a sense of place better than any other spirit. Botanicals are wine estates. unique parcels of natural flavourings derived, predominately, from flowers, seeds, spices and fruit. By the ’90s, the Hickinbotham family’s interest in wines expanded to a 650ha property at Paringa in South Australia’s A distiller can choose from literally hundreds of botanicals. In Riverland where they planted a vineyard so large it was Australia our indigenous flora is giving our distillers a competitive measured in kilometres - four by eight of them evolving into a edge allowing them to create unique botanical combinations 100,000 case a year business with the US its largest market. that seem to be bewitching international judges. A country, with no history of producing premium spirits, is now dominating “I really wanted to keep my grandfather’s passion for Australian international spirits competitions and exporting its gins to the world. wine and spirit alive but doing it in a new way by producing ultra premium gin,” said Michael. “I like the idea that you can At the time of writing there are now over one hundred boutique start with a blank canvas and then you can express yourself distillers registered in Australia with new ones popping up almost on in any way you choose. There is a lot of science involved but a monthly basis. One of those “new kids” on the block is Adelaide- there is also a lot of art.” based Australian Distilling Company. In true Hickinbotham spirit Michael wanted to produce a great ADCo started out as the vision of Adelaide businessman Michael gin, and set about to educate himself on everything about that Hickinbotham, CEO of South Australia’s largest home building white spirit. In his quest to understand the essence of what company, a vision, no doubt, driven by his DNA! He is the third makes an excellent gin he embarked on a global tour to visit generation of his family involved in the wine and spirits industry. the world’s best distilleries to see who was doing what. “I love 46 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

MICHAEL HICKINBOTHAM IS DRAWING ON A FAMILY HISTORY DATING BACK THREE GENERATIONS TO DISTILL AN AWARD-WINNING RANGE OF AUSTRALIAN GINS. November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 47

that there is a great camaraderie within the industry; people are really special,” said Michael. “It occurred to me that it would very happy to share their knowledge,” said Michael. be a lovely thing to apply the same principles to gins for other Australian cities; a series of beautiful and unique handcrafted “As I researched gin I began formulating an idea to make gins that say something about each city.” a gin especially for Adelaide; one that expressed the unique spirit of the city. It was to be a London dry gin but one that had And now there is a Melbourne gin that has already won eight my own stamp on it.” medals in its short life. Sydney and Brisbane gins have just been released and the team is putting the finishing touches to The gin is distilled by Dr Graham Jones an Adjunct Associate Perth that has a very interesting combination of local botanicals. Professor at Adelaide University’s School of Agriculture, Food and Wine who has 25 years of teaching the art of distillation “I have lived in, and have an affection for most of those cities,” under his belt. said Michael. “I feel I have a relationship with each of them.” And here the synchronicity creeps in. Michael completed Dr Jones’ distillation course at the The gin is made at the Hickinbotham Roseworthy Wine Roseworthy Hickinbotham laboratory and does get involved Science Laboratory, named in honour of Michael’s grandfather, in the distillation process, although admits he probably gets in the Angove Still House named after one of Hick’s students - in Dr Jones’ way more than anything! the legendary Tom Angove. Dr Jones’ brief was to produce a gin that evokes the taste To really appreciate the quality of ADCo’s city gins, serve them of Adelaide. The resulting Adelaide gin took 12 months to neat over ice and as often as possible! perfect. “There are certain components that make a London dry gin - that is the base and then comes the balancing act Below: Ray Beckwith, Alan Hickinbotham and Jeffrey Penfold Hyland (1950). with the other ingredients,” explained Dr Jones. “I did about 30 trial distillations of botanicals and made up over 120 different formulations from those distillations. We do initial tastings here in the laboratory and then it is over to Michael’s large eclectic tasting panel with the final decision being left to Michael.” And those taste buds must have got it right because since the launch of the Adelaide gin earlier this year it has won eight international and two national awards as well as two medals for label design. And at the time of writing was just voted the Best London Dry Gin at the World Gin Masters Asia Pacific International Spirits competition held in Hong Kong. “When it all came together I realised we had made something 48 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019

I really wanted to keep my grandfather’s passion for Australian wine and spirit alive but doing it in a new way by producing ultra premium gin. November/December 2019 W I N E S TAT E 49

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL THE ever-evolving West Village super-site existing venues, with a needed - quality food and wines without in the heart of West End in Brisbane’s inner crafted cocktail and beer the drinking droves of the breweries and south has a new wine bar with a pretty offering also available. bars or the eye-watering price tags of serious pedigree. Named Fredericks the various fine diners. 5 Boundary St, after Frederick Peters, founder of the Simple snacks such as Brisbane; phone (07) 3188 9090. eponymous ice cream factory, the original cheese and charcuterie brick buildings now forming part of mega- boards are on offer and Publican Nick Gregorski breathed a development that includes cafes, art guests can also enjoy sigh of relief recently when his hotel in the galleries, retail and residential. It is the food from West Village’s CBD, The Port Office, finally reopened latest project from Paul McGivern and The Garden Pantry after a kitchen fire spread into the ceiling Bailee Dewes, of The Wolfe, La Lune, (which houses Salt Meats of the heritage-listed corner pub near the and Corella in collaboration with Daniel Cheese, Cheeky Poke, Botanical Gardens in January. and Amelia Miletic, of Kangaroo Point’s and Mr Bunz) with a One Fish Two Fish. Two chefs (Paul and drink. West Village, 97 Expecting to be out of action for six to Daniel), a front of house gun (Dewes) and Boundary St, West End. eight weeks, the extent of the damage PR and branding supremo (Amelia) makes wasn’t realised initially and the ensuing re- for something of a dream team for this While ice cream and build delayed the comeback by six months. colourful, sub-tropical vibe. fine wine may not be a The original part of the pub are the front favourite pairing, the Peters Ice Cream bars and, although they are now pristine, This West Village concept celebrates factory building, which received extensive they are largely authentically restored and the history of the site and designers Jon media coverage when it was built in 1928 it’s here that you can order traditional pub Dowding and Chrissy Feld were engaged for Frederick Peters’ innovations in the use grub and counter meals - steak sandwich, to bring the concept to life. Positioned at of salt, ice and cutting-edge refrigeration, sticky lamb ribs and eggplant parmie. the top of West Village’s fairy-lit Factory has an interesting story and the Frederick’s Lane, with an open plan, mostly al fresco team aims to emulate the joy of the entire Shucked-to-order oysters and house- space, Fredericks will have a similar, ice cream experience, including the made bread served with roast chicken strong focus on wine as McGivern’s packaging, various flavours and shapes dripping is available throughout the popularised by the Peters Ice Cream venue, the dining room menu steps it brand. 3A, 80 Hope St, South Brisbane; up a notch with hearty dishes like stout phone (07) 3255 3961. braised oxtail, crumbed lamb’s brains, For Brisbanites who follow the restaurant low and slow braised wagyu brisket and scene, it has been a dizzying couple of suckling pig porchetta. years, with a veritable tsunami of openings, closings, moving and morphing going The 155-year old venue is back in full on in the ever-enlarging industry. By far swing not only with daily diners but also the biggest player has been the Howard with the venue hire - there’s a private Smith Wharves development which houses dining room that seats 40 adjacent to the multiple venues, including breweries and main restaurant and a cosy cellar that watering holes, refurbished wharves where seats up to 20 guests. Upstairs there are events seating up to 1000 guests can be several rooms, all with elegant colonial- held, and a slew of dining options such as style decor that hold numbers between Greca and Allana Sapwell’s Arc Dining. 100-300 guests. 40 Edward St, Brisbane; Day or night the views are sensational, phone (07) 3003 4700. perched under the Story Bridge with wide expanses of the river and CBD. Now Top left and right : Fredericks bar. Sapwell and her team have created Ciao Bottom left: Wine and cheese from Fredericks bar. Papi, another alfresco spot adjacent to Arc, but, as the name suggests, with a serious Italian lilt. Super casual, with a clipped menu of classics - think antipasto, handmade burrata with tomatoes, artichokes with stracciatella to start, spanner crab conchiglie and chilli, classic ragu and pumpkin agnolotti, crumbed fish or wagyu skirt steak with salsa verde - the choices aren’t there but the quality is. It is the venue this precinct 50 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2019