Winestate Magazine May June 2016

winewordsR AY K I N G - K I N G ’ S R U N‘A M AV E R I C K ’ S TA L E O F F O O T B A L L , W I N E A N D B U S I N E S S ’SKYE MURTAGHIN a wine industry career that spanned just Can you recall your first encounter since the early’70s have been in wineshy of 30 years, Ray King took a largely with wine? making techniques - and they’ve beenunconventional approach to the business As if it were yesterday. At Jimmy Watson’s evolutionary rather than revolutionary.- a tactic that generated its moments of Wine Bar - only a hop, skip and a jump For example, those New World winecontroversy but, on the whole, proved from Melbourne University - I was, in 1956, making techniques, best exploited byhighly constructive. After 14 years at the introduced to wine by a university friend Australian winemakers in the’80s andhelm, Ray hung up his boots as managing who knew as much about wine as I did, ’90s, that led to 20 per cent per annumdirector of Mildara Wines Limited in 1999 absolutely nothing. We accompanied our increases in Australian wine exportsand started a second chapter in his working steaks that day with a very nice bottle of over a 20-year period. Unfortunately,life as a professional director, including wine - sweet sherry, labelled as Madeira. the rest of the world then caught up.seven years as chair of the St Kilda Football We didn’t know any different and thought Evolutionary, rather than revolutionaryClub. While he remains a director and it was fantastic. The following week Jimmy developments in winemaking will almostmajor shareholder in Best Bottlers Pty Ltd, put us straight. certainly continue to lead the way. I thinkRed Dirt Vineyards in Wrattonbully and vastly improving carbonation techniquesGraymoor Vineyards in Coonawarra (all Despite having little real-world will probably see the demise of allwith ex-Mildara colleagues), a decision to experience specific to the role itself, other sparkling wine methods, with thecut back on his directorial concerns saw you managed to land the Wynns job in exception of top level French.Ray spurred on by his wife and children 1970. Had you been looking for a wayto use some of his new-found “spare into the wine business? What was the key business lessontime” to pen an account of a life spanning For reasons known only to himself, the you learnt as Wine Division Managerseven decades. The book was originally very refined David Wynn liked the look and for Tooheys?intended as a family record and not for sound of an irreverent, brash young man The world of business is not always fair.general consumption, but Ray admits to part way through a (then rare) MBA. As The wine division had grown its profits at 30being swayed to publish after encouraging for me, I was that pain in the backside - a per cent per annum over 10 years and hadwords from his editor and several proof young man in a hurry looking for adventure trebled its return on investment (ROI). Butreaders. It’s a plain-speaking account of - who wanted to make his mark in anything, the new chairman of Castlemaine Tooheyshis personal and working life, harking back anywhere. Wynns just happened to be in Limited deemed that to be irrelevant. Heto early days growing up in the Victorian the wine industry. The wine industry it was. didn’t like the style of a smart arse youngcountry town of Hamilton. Ray’s foray into man who had insufficient respect for thethe wine industry came in 1970 when he The book outlines your part in brewing industry’s traditions. It was madewent out on a limb and applied for a newly bringing the wine cask to the more than clear I should think about doingcreated position as Sales & Marketing consumer market in the early’70s. something else.Director at Wynns Winegrowers Limited. Since then, what do you think’sAt the time he was working as a market been the most significant product It was at Mildara Wines Limited fromresearch manager with a pharmaceutical development in the industry. 1982-1999 that you made your biggestcompany after a stint as a schoolteacher. As with all success stories, I’m just impact in the wine sector with yourHe admits he “knew next to nothing about one of a number of people who can focus on ROI. What was your mostwine, had never sold anything, marketed lay claim to being the father of the rewarding achievement in that time?anything or managed anyone” - so the wine cask. At least I got the Hoover Along with plenty of failures there are manyreal leap of faith was probably taken by Marketing Award for it. But it was purely that might qualify for that title. NothingDavid Wynn. When Tooheys Brewery an Australian phenomenon. It had little could have been better for the soul thanLimited took over Wynns in 1972, Ray impact elsewhere, suggesting it was not the initial Mildara turnaround of 1983/4became Wine Division Manager, assuming as revolutionary as I wanted to believe that united the team and restored thethe additional responsibility of General at the time. No packaging innovation faith of a previously demoralised groupManager Corporate Development in has seriously challenged the ubiquitous of individuals. There were other stand-1975. In 1982 he moved to Mildara Wines glass bottle in over 3000 years. And it’s outs that tested that fine line betweenLtd where he breathed new life into the unlikely that will ever be the case. The excitement and terror such as ultimatelycompany. most significant product developments turning acquired brands like Yellowglen,52 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

Wolf Blass and Krondorf into financially the creativity to successfully address the week prior to our arrival a gentleman “wellsuccessful ones. As was the warm problem of low prices. Unless management known to the police” had been machinefeeling associated with successful new knows what level prices need to be and are gunned to death in the doorway. Ironically,product introductions like Jamiesons Run, courageous enough to implement them, our New York distributor was a seniorPepper Jack, Annies Lane and Yellow. then everything else is irrelevant. This is member of the NYPD with “connections”I also have a particularly soft spot for the soap box from which I’ve delivered (in trying to sell Australian wine in 1977our heroic adventures in achieving early dozens of (largely ignored) sermons over you took what you could get). The mafiasuccess with our Chilean play in 1998/98 the past 20 years. Don was “invited” to sit at our table and,(an adventure prematurely aborted by my having been quite taken with Mrs King’ssuccessor). But the ultimate satisfaction You’ve held prominent posts with knowledge about French wine (and alsowas turning a small, ailing winemaker leading wine and AFL organisations, with Mrs King) he provided a personalisedlocated on the outskirts of Mildura into the even playing for Carlton Football Club tour of his cellar (with Mr King in nervous,third largest profit earner in the wine world. as a young man. Are there parallels close attendance) and insisted she takeAchieving annual profit growth of 27 per between the industries? two bottles of 1956 Chateau Lafite backcent p.a. over 17 years and a ROI two to While both have their own unique set of to the table.three times the industry average was the problems, self-belief, courage, resilienceultimate buzz. and a proper understanding of how to What’s been the most significant get the financial dynamics right are the development in wine marketing in theYour book is awash with takeovers and common success factors. last 20 years?negotiations on the wine industry’s At the risk of being accused of beingcorporate playing field. What can a How would you describe your own another “yesterday’s” man complainingsmall player in the business learn from wine collection and what’s the current that “it’s not what it used to be”, wineyour experiences? top drop? marketing appears to have becomeGiven that a company valued at less than Shabby. We buy two cases of Dan’s sanitised and commoditised. Those old,$9 million in 1982 was turned into one medium priced reds ($15-$25) every unique to the wine industry, marketing skillsvalued at $1.8 billion 17 years later; it month and store them for six months. Top associated with intuition, “myth and magic”shows that any player can do it, even small, drop is a cabernet shiraz merlot blend and a preparedness to be different seemstruggling ones. from our Red Dirt vineyard in Wrattonbully to have fallen by the wayside. - highly recommended by the legendaryWhere do you think the fault lines/weak Jim Irvine. What do you tip as the next wine trendpoints lie in the Australian and New in terms of consumption?Zealand wine industries currently? Have your wine tastes changed much The consumer’s gradually improving wineThe fault lines are pretty well where over the years? knowledge and the commoditisation ofthey’ve always been. First, an over- I’m still a roast lamb and peas man. wine by modern marketers has seen thesupply of grapes. Second, and far more Grant Burge Barossa Shiraz is always demise of the strong fashion element andimportantly, the appallingly low ROI earned hard to beat. the swiftly changing trends that were soby wine companies - an average ROI evident 30 years ago. Nevertheless, somethat is significantly less than half that Where’s the most interesting place creative, sensitive marketers still retainearned by most other industries. The you’ve ever consumed wine? the potential to lead consumers to newinevitable consequence of poor profitability An extremely popular steak house in New styles and varieties. Brown Brothers dois management being forced into re- York in 1977 owned by a mafia Don. The it very well. active, short term-ism in order to deal withmarket place pressures rather than beingmasters of their own destiny. The reasonfor that poor ROI is starkly clear. Eitherwine companies are ignorant of whattheir prices need to be (an unbelievablysimple formula) or they just lack the will or May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 53

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press1997 $80 2005 $651998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $1502001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $1402002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $952003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $1502004 $110 Shiraz2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $2802007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $1602009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/1993 $80 1997 $1901994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $2001995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $6001998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $7001999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,0002002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,0002003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $8502004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,0002005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $4502006 $110 1959 $2,0002007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,6002008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $7054 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $3,2001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $850 1994 $120 1992 $2701995 $110 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1998 $160  1996 $2601999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $4502000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $7002001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $8502002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $4202003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $5202004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $4502005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $8502006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $5602008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $6002009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $7502010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $9002011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 T EWINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTING 1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260Para Liqueur 1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $2101878 $2,200  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $3001879 $2,500  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380 1880 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $3001881 $1,800  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1882 $1,800  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1887 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $2501893 $1,200  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released1899 $1,200  2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released1901 $700  2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $3201930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $1051933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $1251939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $1801944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $7001947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIECuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 95 95 951980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 POINTS POINTS POINTS 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $2201982 $280  1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $8001983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $5601990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $4201992 $240 1994 $5501993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $3601995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $4201996 $370  1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $4201999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $2002003 $190 2003 $2942004 $170 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 55 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_2F7/A0.4in/2d0d151 2:34 pm

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts sale in Australia. For the record, the highest price paid previously at Sterling LANGTON’S FINE STERLING WINE AUCTIONS for a regular bottle was $17,000 for a WINE AUCTIONS (MARCH MARKET REVIEW, by LYNTON pristine 1952 Grange, back in 1995. With three fine wine catalogues BARBER) Last year a six litre imperial of 2009 closing per week, Langton’s offer The most recent live, online fortnightly Chateau Lafite Rothschild was sold the best fine wine range to choose Sterling wine auction saw the usual around $16,500. The investment value from. Visit langtons.com.au for a suspects in the middle of some frenzied of the 1950’s Grange is an interesting comprehensive list of the auction bidding. Penfolds Grange filled the study. Surely most buyers, eager to event calendar. top four places and five of the Top Ten, own an important slice of wine history, with the Most Wanted wine in the aren’t concerned about such trifles. For ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS auction being 1983 Penfolds Grange. a dynamic list of all Grange auction sales May 3, closing April 8 Some 30 bids pushed this icon over and current values, head to the Sterling June 7, closing May 6 $450 (all figures are hammer fall or website at www.sterlingwine.com.au July 5, closing June 10 highest bid - invoice price adds 15 per and click through to the The Grange cent buyer’s premium). The remarkable Market section. Reviewing the 1952 GRAYSWINE 2010 Penfolds Grange sold for over $550 numbers, it doesn’t look like we’ve seen Daily wine auctions, starting from with 22 bids in the hunt. Collectable a lot of appreciation over 20 years. Of $9 per case, with a 30-day money whisky has made a huge impact on course, some folks just “gotta have it” back guarantee. the market as shown by 15 bids on the and will pay more for the privilege and Fine wine auctions end Monday- Macallan 18 Year Old Single Malt. Rare speed. The perfect RP100 2008 Penfolds Tuesday-Thursday each week. and special whisky from the US, Japan Grange was pulled out of this auction as Port and spirit auctions end on and, of course, Scotland are routinely a Buy it Now for a New Zealand visitor’s Wednesdays. selling up around $1000 a bottle. A birthday. It was delivered to his hotel Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year Old sold for suite just in time for a big celebration. STERLING WINE AUCTIONS $1001! This auction broke a Sterling Buyer behaviour can be strange. The Auctions run every two weeks, back- record for the highest price paid for a most amazing and historical listing in to-back, finishing on Wednesday regular bottle in the 21st century! A this auction was the 1878 Seppelt Para evening. lucky Australian buyer was locked in Port 100 year bottling - the very first battle with a UK player for the 1946 in the line of Benno Seppelt’s great (All dates are subject to change Macallan. At $15,500, the local won. The dream to cellar a barrel of port for each without notice). retail for this fabulous prize is around vintage for 100 years before bottling. $20,000 - likely there isn’t another for The catalogue reserve was a modest $2000 and, believe it or not, a bidder went all the way to $1 under reserve and stopped. Without doubt this is the best and likely the only true window into the very origins of the Australian wine industr y. Liquid histor y, in so many ways - priceless! Talking priceless, a few fabulous Margaret River and Great Southern relics sailed through this auction, with some surprising results. An amazing bottle of 1976 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon found its way home to its old neighbourhood (for study and adoration) for just $47 and a severely ullaged 1976 Alkoomi Cabernet (first vintage) also made the trip into a museum for very small dollars. My pick was the magnum of 1983 Leeuwin Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon. Looking very smart and untroubled, it sold for just on $100. As you would expect, the “rock star” was the 1975 Moss Wood Cabernet with low shoulder ullage and a cool $375 winning bid! For more56 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

wine investment & collectinginformation visit www.sterlingwine. So what full-bodied reds were buyers blended whiskies did clear remarkablycom.au. All prices quoted are hammer keen on in March? Let’s start with 2000 well. Looking at the Top Ten lists forfall - before buyer’s premium. Best’s Bin 0 Shiraz, 1998 Fox Creek March, and the Top Ten Hammer Prices for Reserve Shiraz, Grant Burge Meshach Australian Wine were mainly achieved byODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS and Shadrach from the 1990s, Eileen Penfolds. Leading the table at $981 was a(MARCH AUCTION REPORT, by GRAHAM Hardy Shiraz from the ’90s and 2000s, magnum of 1998 Penfolds Bin 95 GrangeWRIGHT) Rockford Basket Press from the 2000s Shiraz in its original timber case. This wasA slight change in weather always results (including a large offering of 2010s), followed by a bottle of ’76 Penfolds Binin a big change to our buyer’s spending 2005 Wolf Blass Platinum Shiraz and 95 (cellar scuffed, stained and nickedhabits - so much so that by the end Wynns John Riddoch from the famed label) which sold for $720 and a bottle ofof February you could almost feel the 1996, 1998 and the equally impressive 1991 Three Rivers Dry Grown Barossatension in the air as our imbibers looked 2010 vintages. Penfolds Bins, especially Valley Shiraz which achieved $501. In theto get off the cold, crisp whites and Bins 128, 28, 389 and 707 - along with Top Ten Non-Penfold/Henschke Hammerre-start their love affair with full-bodied RWT and the rarely seen 2006 Cellar Prices list, it was good to see Wendoureereds! That said, I know there are some Reserve Cabernet - also sold strongly, make the cut for a change. While a 1996wine heroes among you who suffer for as did Henschke Mount Edelstone. As Rockford Basket Press Shiraz led thethe cause through the summer months. demand for the products of both these charge with a hammer price of $140,Some chill their shiraz, others turn their famous wineries grows, stock supply bottles of the 2002 and 2004 Wendoureeairconditioning to absolute zero and there is still a big issue. Other stand-out Clare Valley Shiraz took out third andare those, mainly cabernet drinkers, who clearances included 2002 d’Arenberg The fourth spots respectively, with $125 andjust disappear into their dark cellars for Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon, $115. The aforementioned 1985 Domainethe duration. No matter what, they never 2010 Hewitson Private Cellar Shiraz de la Romanee Conti headed the Toplet their noble cause down. The grand Mourvedre, Lindeman Trios from the ’90s, Ten Hammer Prices, Imported Wine list,news from Oddbins’ March auction is 1998 Mildara Cabernet, 1998 Saltram with second position taken by a bottle ofthat demand for Grange and Hill of Grace, Original Vine Shiraz and Torbreck’s 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Crualong with Penfolds Bin 707, continues The Struie and The Factor from 2003. Pauillac at $451 and third spot secured byto grow. Bordeaux reds, especially 1996 Pleasingly, strong sales also continued a 1996 Chateau Haut Brion 1er Cru GravesChateau Mouton Rothschild, also came for the blends and shiraz of the famed at $361. While lesser Australian fortifiedsback into play and an absolute superstar Birks Wendouree of Clare, as well as for had a slow night in March, buyers werered burgundy, a 1985 Domaine de la that other somewhat hidden McLaren still keen on a variety of respectedRomanee Conti Grand Cru Romanee Vale gem, Kays. Fortifieds were a little on vintage-dated styles. Leading the TopConti Monopole, achieved a more than the slow side in March, which may have Ten Hammer Prices, Fortified Wines andrespectable $15,217 for one 750ml bottle. had something to do with the time of the Spirits list though was an older 750ml year, although a large offering of older bottling of Johnnie Walker’s famed BlueOddbins Wine Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine Auctions www.oddbins.com.au Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Looking for Wine? Email: [email protected] Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how to buy wine in three easy steps… Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experieIntc’seW...hat we do Best! May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 57

wine investment & collectingLabel Blended Whisky - boxed and with many kicking around the cellar getting this country. Our takeaway? What bettera minor cellar scuffed label - which sold in the way, we’ll happily take them time could there be to list your ownfor $146. A look at the Top Ten tables in off your hands. Get in touch to make wine at auction, so get a valuation todayterms of percentage achieved above the arrangements. For more information visit from Tamara Grischy, head of Langton’stop end of the price guide and, among www.oddbins.com.au. All prices quoted Auctions by contacting tamarag@the Australian Performers, the number are exclusive of buyer’s premium. langtons.com.au. Results from thisone spot went to a boxed bottle of 1992 year’s Old, Rare and Cult Wine auctionsSeppelt M2 The Millennium Release LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS demonstrate that bottle-aged classicsSt Peters Vineyard Grampians Late (Auction Market Highlights - March) continue to experience solid demand andDisgorged Sparkling Shiraz which sold Noteworthy at Langton’s so far this year is deliver strong prices. Examples includefor 27.5 per cent above the guides. Of confirmation by the secondary market of $1680 achieved for a 1966 Penfoldsthe Imported Wine Performers, while it the quality of the 2012 vintage, especially Grange Shiraz, SA; $466 for a ’65 Wynnswasn’t surprising to see the ’96 Chateau in South Australia and Victoria. Prices Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon;Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru Pauillac go for the 2012s of recognised labels are $355 for a 1959 McWilliam’s Mount0.2 per cent over the guides, it was a bit strong, suggesting a vintage premium Pleasant P. & O.P. Hermitage (Shiraz),harder to understand the interest in a may apply across the board in due course. Hunter Valley; $258 for a 1965 Draytonslittle-known bottle of German spatlese - Two examples, both Langton’s Classified Family Bin 51 Dry Red, Hunter Valley;with a 2008 Weingut Emrich Schonleber Exceptional wines, are 2012 Bass Phillip $235 for a ’66 Lindemans Bin 3303Monzinger Halenberg Nahe Spatlese Reserve Pinot Noir, South Gippsland Burgundy (Shiraz), Hunter Valley; $159Riesling going 14.3 per cent over the ($527) and 2012 Wendouree Shiraz, Clare for a 1966 Penfolds Dalwood Hermitageguides. I better do some homework! Valley ($163). Another is 2012 Yabby Lake Claret (Shiraz) Reserve Bottling, HunterWith the Fortifieds and Spirit offerings, Block One Single Vineyard Pinot Noir Valley; $125 for a ’71 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Rieslingsome spirits went way over the top while ($220), which in 2013 became the first (Semillon), Hunter Valley and $118 for aothers fell within the guidelines. A 1125ml pinot noir ever to win the Jimmy Watson 1965 Tahbilk Wines Cabernet Sauvignon,bottle of Grants Family Reserve Blended Trophy. Speaking of Yabby Lake, another Nagambie Lakes. There’s also no doubtWhisky (cellar scuffed label) went 31.4 of Tom Carson’s coterie of labels - 2014 that the shiraz variety continues to beper cent above the price guide and a Serrat Close Planted Shiraz Viognier - the darling of the Australian secondary500ml boxed bottle of Seppelt GR113 was our biggest mover for 2015. This market. A 2006 Chris Ringland DryThe Millennium Release Rutherglen gem jumped 1009 per cent from retail Grown Barossa Ranges Shiraz, BarossaRare Muscat had a great result - going ($42) to auctions ($466) - a phenomenal achieved $1286, a ’96 Henschke Hill of24 per cent over guides. Finally, we’re increase that only highlights the agility Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley fetched $641,looking for cardboard wine boxes, so and vitality of the secondary market in a 2002 Wild Duck Creek Estate Duckif you’re Adelaide-based and have too Muck Shiraz, Heathcote sold for $350 658 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

wine investment & collectingand a 2008 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm ’60s, and Latour from the ’50s - all in Rig Shiraz all belted expectations outShiraz, McLaren Vale achieved $140. For perfect condition for their age. From the of the ball park. At the other end of thea comprehensive list of the auction event same vendor we received a plethora of spectrum, great imbibing bargains of two-calendar and price results, visit langtons. mixed bordeaux and burgundy such as packs under $50 included 2011 Grossetcom.au. All prices quoted include buyer’s Henri Jayer and Domaine Romanee. All Watervale Riesling, 2006 St Hallett Faithpremium. up we’ve added a myriad of new listings, Shiraz, 1998 Bannockburn Pinot Noir, too numerous to itemise. If the first two 2000 Leeuwin Estate Prelude VineyardsGRAYSWINE months are any indication, it looks as Cabernet Merlot and 2004 De Bortoli( M A R C H R E P O R T, b y G R E G though the Year of the Monkey is going Noble One. Ready-to-drink bargain winesFITZSIMMONS) to be exceptional. Henschke Hill of Grace of this variety, packed and delivered to2016 began gently as the excitement and continued to achieve high prices in the your door, is GraysWine’s commitmentrush for liquidity in the last few months first quarter of 2016. Henschke produces to Australia’s wine enthusiasts - now andof 2015 all but disappeared. The volumes Australia’s utmost single vineyard wine, into the future. The past 12 months hasof activity evident in the last quarter of making it a truly Australian icon. It is seen volumes of Bundaberg Rum all but2015 declined in January and significantly produced in only the best vintages and dry up as serious collectors have donefewer new shipments came through unfailingly commands serious dollars on their trading, while others are riskingthe doors. However all that changed in release. Recent successes under the Facebook and the illegal cash economy.February with a flurry of activity and hammer included the 1992 and 1999 As we warned last year, there havethe arrival of several impressive cellars. vintages, both exceeding $420, while been many “collectable” rums madeThese included a series of larger formats the 1996 fetched a whopping $530. by Diageo in an attempt to cash in onfrom a famous Sydney restaurant, Older bottles exceeded all expectations premium labels and the aligned profits.opening with five vintages of Penfolds with the 1984 reaching $410 and a very The effect has been to devalue the original389, a large offering of Rockford Basket dusty’72 going out for a staggering $440. collectables. Despite that, Single MaltPress and culminating in such notables Other classic Aussie results include 1999 Scotch continues to grow in value, drivenas Lakes Folly, d’Arenberg and Felton Jim Barry Armagh at $137 and a 1998 by great brands such as Glenmorangie,Road. Adding to these gems was an at $187. Six-packs of 2005 Grant Burge Ardbeg and Macallan. By way of example,assortment of outstanding French wine Meshach Shiraz reached $594, 2006 a 21-year-old single bottle of Nikkaacross more vintages than we’ve seen d’Arenberg The Dead Arm 2006 went Taketsuru sold for over $500. If you’vein a very long time. Many were from for $459, 2005 Glaetzer Amon-Ra Shiraz squirreled away some good whisky that’sthe famed 1855 Bordeaux classification, for $459 and 2006 Elderton Command now too valuable to consume, GraysWineincluding Mouton-Rothschild dating back Shiraz for $379. 1993 Brokenwood has customers waiting. 2016 has seento 1955, Margaux from vintages in the Graveyard Shiraz, 1998 Wendouree a strategic expansion of the catalogue Shiraz Mataro and 2002 Torbreck Run offering by adding current vintage winesIntroducing GraysWineJoin our community of wine loversand growers. Discover a better wayto buy and sell wine.Choose from 30 day Quick Delivery Name your Price2000+ Wines Money-Back RIGHT TO YOUR BID FROM JUST $9WORTH EVERY GUARANTEE DOOR FOR MOST CASES DROPFind out why selling and buying wine on GraysWine is worth every drop!Contact us: [email protected] May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 59

wine investment & collectingto GraysWine’s fine auctions from many In 15 years we have witnessed with Bin 707 and Grange performing wellAustralian producers. These include an considerable change in our auctions andarray of direct-from-the-winery labels, also the New Zealand wine landscape. as usual. A rare bottle of Bin 620 soldincluding Leeuwin, Cape Mentelle, Cullen, New Zealand wines have alwaysWilliam Downie, Vasse Felix and Yalumba. performed well and now there is great 30% above the reserve.All these wines start at $9 in under- demand for Australian wines, Frenchreserve auctions, so if you’re looking wines (especially Bordeaux and to a Champagne results of note included afor current vintage classics, do keep lesser extent Burgundy, Champagne,an eye out for them - many are trading Rhone) and other European countries. magnum of 1976 Dom Perignon sellingunder market value. Finally - calling all Provenance is extremely important andcollectors! If you have any 1966, 1976, we seek out well cellared wines. Wines at $625 – a bargain compared withor 1986 wines, or - for the ultimate 21st- that may have not been cellared in aa 1995, please contact me. There will fashion that we believe is conducive to international pricing. A 1988 Enothequebe strong demand for these vintages storing fine wine are vetted. To assistthroughout the year and they generally consumers to cellar their wines, Webb’s and 1995 Dom Perignon also fared well.rise in value over 20 per cent on previous offer links to companies who offer ayears. For great prices on an extraordinary range of cellaring options from wine Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque 1979 was therange of fine wines, followed by fast and cabinets and racking through to cellarefficient service delivery, it doesn’t get conditioners and cellar construction. standout showing growth of 31% on itsbetter than the new GraysWine Worth 2016 started well for Webb’s. Our firstevery Drop. For more information visit auction on 2nd February showed an 11% previous sale in December 2015.www.GraysWine.com.au. Prices listed jump in lot numbers and a massive 31%don’t include a buyer’s premium. leap on hammer fall compared to our last Other highlights from France included a auction of 2015. A 70% sell through rateWEBB'S AUCTIONS from the auction and post auction sales magnum of 2002 Rousseau Chambertin( F E B R U A R Y R E P O R T, b y R E E C E was slightly ahead of the 2015 average.WARREN) Stand out performers from New Zealand Clos de Beze reaching $2300 (againWebb’s has been auctioning Rare and include Te Mata Coleraine (a consistentFine wine in Auckland since 2001. We performer), Felton Road Pinots and a a bargain compared to internationalare the largest and most frequent live 2001 Craggy Range Sophia 3-litre which,wine auctions in New Zealand with eight spurred along by some feverous bidding, pricing). Chateau Mouton Rothschildauctions annually. sold for more than twice its reserve. Australia was dominated by Penfold’s 1986 and Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage 1990, both Robert Parker 100 point wines, generated significant interest and both vendor and buyer were happy with the results. Vintage Port flies in the face of international trends and continues to reach good hammer prices. Croft and Taylor’s from 1963 had a lot of interest with the Croft doing very well against average international pricing. Our March auction featured the most complete vertical of Te Mata Coleraine which we expected to be popular and hope that it entices other verticals to be consigned. 60 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

Join Peter Simic, Editor/Publisher of Winestate magazine and Travelrite International for the ITALYTHE BEST OF WINE & FOOD TOUR September 17 to October 4, 2016 Explore the best wine & food regions of Italy with Peter Simic. Outstanding locations – visits to Rome, Tuscany (Siena & Florence), Emilia-Romagna (Bologna & Parma), Piedmont (Alba) and Milan, plus Cinque Terre (Portofino).MAGAZINE

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINWESTERN AUSTRALIAFEW CAN COMPETE GASPA IN CHARGE so our wine list is made up of many drops from the famous Margaret River region.”THERE are few wine regions anywhere in IT is all change in the kitchens at the Pan The overarching concept across all of thethe world to compete with the Margaret Pacific Hotel in Perth, with the arrival of hotel’s outlets is very much about greatRiver region, with its world-class Paul Gaspa as executive chef to oversee service in a relaxed atmosphere for a trulywineries, boutique breweries, gourmet the hotel’s two award-winning restaurants memorable dining experience.produce and eateries with sweeping - Montereys and Origins. Gaspa’s careervineyard, forest and beach views. With as a chef spans more than 15 years, Located a short walk from themore than 220 wine producers, 100 including Rydges, The Star, Crown Hotels, city’s bustling shopping, dining andcellar doors and producing more than the Michelin-starred Conrad Hotel, the entertainment districts, Pan Pacific Perth25 per cent of Australia’s premium iconic seven-star Burj Al Arab, Drones features 486 guest rooms, including 96wine, the area surrounding a one-time of Pont Street by Marco Pierre White, premium club rooms and the Pacific Clubchilled-out surfing town has evolved into Belair House, St Martin’s Lane House and Lounge; ideal for business or leisure.a smorgasbord of wineries, boutique London’s Lanesborough Hotel. Having www.panpacific.com.accommodation, quality restaurants, art worked under world-famous names suchgalleries and touring options. Visitors as Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre COMMUNITY HUBcan lunch at one of the many winery White, he aims to offer diners his twist onrestaurants, including Aravina Estate, classic favourites. He has reinvigorated THE Margaret River region has a newCullen, Wills Domain, Leeuwin Estate, Montereys Restaurant’s all-day dining a la collaborative space known as Riversmith,Vasse Felix and Voyager Estate, or there carte menu with a vision of a greater focus which encompasses a new cafe, coffeeare plenty of bars and restaurants to on fresh, locally sourced produce with shop, art gallery, designer store and giftchoose from in town, including Muster, the hotel’s “market-to-table” philosophy. shop. Located in a former garage space onMiki’s Open Kitchen, Morries Anytime “I am very excited to be working with the the Bussell Hwy in Margaret River township,and Swings Taphouse. Margaret River exceptional team of chefs at Pan Pacific Riversmith is designed as a community hubalso boasts an abundance of local Perth,” Gaspa says. “Our philosophy and gathering space providing a place forcheeses, chocolates and ice cream, is focused on creating simple dishes locals and visitors to eat, drink, shop andwhile boutique shops, luxury retreats with stellar ingredients, it's what I call learn. The venue has a produce store thatand pampering spa treatments offer ‘contemporary comfort food’. Diners can focuses on artisan producers, sourcingplenty of indulgent treats. An emergence expect to see classic staples given a local seasonal ingredients, beverages,of award-winning boutique breweries modern makeover, made with highest- preserves, handmade wares and hostsare becoming internationally recognised quality local produce. This also applies seasonally-dependent food workshops. Itfor their range of brews, from traditional to our beverage offering. We are blessed is fully licensed. www.riversmith.com.au.pale ales and pilseners, through to in Western Australia to have access to Also new, and on the edge of the Margaretginger or chocolate flavoured beers. some of the best wines in the world and River township, the new BrewhouseSample a local favourite at one of Margaret River is owned and run by threeMargaret River’s many breweries,including Eagle Bay Brewing Co,Cowaramup Brewing Company, ColonialBrewing Company, Cheeky MonkeyBrewer y and Cider y, and the mostrecently opened Young Henrys Brewery.The Margaret River region is also hometo WA's annual premier food and wineevent, the Margaret River GourmetEscape (MRGE), held later in theyear. The Margaret River region is athree-hour drive south of Perth. www.australiassouthwest.com.62 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

travelbriefslocal families. Brewhouse Margaret River and a dedicated sleeping area for pets. starred restaurants around the world,is a place where tourists and residents Guests must bring their own bedding including Bilson’s in Sydney, d’Hotel de Villealike can enjoy a cold beer and local and food for their animals. The Mercure in Switzerland and SaQuaNa in France, hasproduce. Think dishes like sticky pork with Canberra and MGallery Fairmont Resort returned to his home state to take up thecoconut rice, soy caramel and cucumber in the Blue Mountains are other Accor pet role of executive chef. www.comohotels.pickle, maybe a wagyu beef burger with friendly hotels in Australia. Novotel Vines com/thetreasury/treasury-como-perth.free-range bacon, zucchini pickles and Resort; phone (08) 9297 3000 or emailchips or chilli salt squid salad. www. \"mailto:[email protected]’’. SAMPLE THE SPIRITSbrewhousemargaretriver.com.au. By thetime you read this, Windance Estate RESTORED TO ITS FORMER PERTH has a new city distillery after thewhich has operated a rustic cellar door GLORY opening of Hippocampus Metropolitanfor several years, should have opened its Distiller y. General manager Jasonswish new tasting facility with views over PERTH’S latest luxury hotel attraction is Markwart says the cellar door offersthe vineyards. Como The Treasury, a grand 19th century visitors an educational experience, building that has been almost entirely with distillery tours as well as tastingsBRING THE PETS restored. For the past 140 years the building and cocktails showcasing spirits by has been serving the community as state Hippocampus as well as other AustralianTHE Novotel Vines Resort in the Swan government offices, but today it serves distillers. The distiller recently launchedValley outside of Perth has joined a the public in a very different way. The new Hippocampus Gin, a traditional-style gingrowing list of hotels and resorts allowing boutique hotel has just 48 rooms over four using locally sourced ingredients to addthe whole family to holiday or stay together, floors and is located in Perth’s Cathedral to its bespoke vodka. The new blendincluding pets of all varieties. Novotel The Square, on the doorstep of many of the features 10 botanicals, including juniper,Vines has launched specially designated city’s attractions. With two restaurants, the coriander, oris root, liquorice root, angelicaapartments in which pets are welcomed hotel caters to a range of tastes. Post is a root, almond, cassia bark, orange peel,along with their human families on holidays, modern Australian bistro with French flair, lemon peel and cubeb pepper maceratedor for longer stays. The self-contained and rooftop Wildflower presents a range of for 15 hours prior to distilling. www.one and two-bedroom apartments cost European-accented dishes. There is also hippocampusmd.com.au. just an additional $20 a night if you want a bar, Como Shambhala Urban Escapeyour cat or dog to stay with you. The wellness centre, as well as a gym and a Above left: Como Treasury Studio Suite.apartments come complete with a fully- 20m indoor pool. Jed Gerrard, who has Above bottom: Novotel The Vines. fenced outside exercise and play area enjoyed an extensive career in Michelin- Above right: Margaret River Gourmet Escape. Opposite page: Novotel The Vines golf. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 63

233 TASTED OF THE WEST145 AWARDEDBESTAnother important round up of great wines from the West. This Howard Park SAUVIGNONmassive state produces some of the finest cabernets, chardonnays Western Australia BLANCand sauvignon blanc/semillon blends in Australia and once again Sauvignon Blanc SEMILLONlots of nice wines to choose from here. 2014 HHH Rich complex herbal/ 15 TASTEDSPARKLING SAUVIGNON savoury fragrances and 11 AWARDED BLANC powerful green herbal5 TASTED flavours. Good food A solid class. A nice3 AWARDED 14 TASTED wine. $31 vibrant fruit class with 5 AWARDED semillon adding fruitNice complexity and Yilgarnia Denmark weight. Early picking,lees age on offer here. Very few faults here. Sauvignon Blanc high acid characters are Many wines had canned 2015 HHH evident here. The judgesOld Kent River bean or pea green Simple grassy thought a touch moreDiamondtina characters but a bit commercial style with ripeness would haveFrankland River more ripeness would some pungency on been good.Pinot Noir have made a difference. the nose and a tightlyChardonnay textured palate. $192006 HHHH Jane BrookPretty red floral red fruit Shovelgate Vineyard CHENINaromatics. Attractive Margaret River BLANCpalate structure Sauvignon Blancwith good flavour 2015 HHHH 2 TASTEDdevelopment, some A lovely wine with a nose 2 AWARDEDsherbety notes and reminiscent of asparagussubtle oak. $50 and tinned peas and A couple of nice some delicate spicy examples showing3 Oceans The Estate complexity obvious on lovely viscous varietalFrankland River the palate. $20 mouthfeel.Blanc de Blancs2013 HHHH Brash Vineyard Paul Conti TuartAlmost golden in colour Single Vineyard Block Westernwith attractive developed Margaret River Australia Cheninyeasty aromas and dry Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2015 HHHlemon rind flavours with 2015 HHHH Enjoyable and complexgood spritz and clean A lean austere style of wine that's a lovely freshfinish. $21.99 sauvignon blanc with modern expression of a pretty orange blossom chenin. $18Old Kent River fruit and nice line ofDiamondtina acid. Flavoursome but Redgate Margaret Thompson EstateFrankland River restrained. $22.95 River Chenin Blanc Four ChambersPinot Noir Abbey Creek 2015 HHH Margaret RiverChardonnay Porongurup More of a generic white Sauvignon Blanc2008 HHH Sauvignon Blanc wine with stonefruits and SemillonDeveloped golden 2014 HHH marzipan characters. Really 2015 HHHH1/2colour, interesting toasty Pronounced perfumed nice drink though. $21 A delicate floral bouquetcomplexity and almond- aromas and a riper with citrus notes. Vibrantlike flavours. $35 palate. \"A good value palate with nice length of quaffer.\" $24 lemony flavours. A lovely refreshing and thirst quenching wine - very drinkable. $2064 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 65

BEST OF THE WEST3 Oceans The Estate 3 Oceans The SEMILLON Barton Jones Sandalford EstateFrankland-Margaret Rivers White Classic SAUVIGNON The Brilliant Cut Reserve MargaretRiver Sauvignon Frankland-Margaret BLANC Geographe Semillon River VerdelhoBlanc Semillon River Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2015 HHH2015 HHHH Blanc Semillon 11 TASTED 2013 HHH1/2 Boiled sweets/candiedDelicate fruit-driven 2015 HHH 5 AWARDED Slightly toasty apple aromas. Interestingaromas and excellent Light, bright and lively A tough class with too development showing on palate; fresh lively andbalance of green melon with lemon/melon notes many hard acid wines the nose and firm palate well-balanced. $25and citrus flavours. A well- and \"eye watering\", tart here lacking balance. that's high in acid withbalanced flavoursome green flavours. $14.99 Barton Jones The good flavour profile. $24 Redgate Margaretwine. $21.99 Mad Fish Western Box Seat Geographe River SemillonSt. Johns Brook Australia Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon Thompson Estate 2014 HHHSingle Vineyard Blanc Semillon Blanc 2013 HHHH SSB Margaret River Dusty, lifted and lemonyMargaret River 2015 HHH A fine wine. Stylish nutty Semillon Sauvignon nose. Palate is preciseSauvignon Blanc Nice sauvignon blanc dusty characters to the Blanc 2015 HHH1/2 yet giving with simpleSemillon characters obvious on attractive bouquet. Good Slightly closed nose; fruit flavours. $252015 HHH1/2 nose and palate, lifted by acid backbone to the hints of toast andSpicy floral nose with a the semillon fruit. $18 palate with citrus fruit and pineapple and good Millbrook Estatespike of citrus. Palate is Sandalford Estate nutty oak. $24 concentration and length Western Australiasurprisingly light but very Reserve Margaret of flavours. $35 Viognier 2014 HHHdrinkable. A lovely well- River Sauvignon A.C.Byrne & Co Smells like honeycombmade wine. $24 Blanc Semillon Margaret River Yilgarnia Denmark with upfront malty lollyPeccavi Margaret 2015 HHH Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon flavours and sweet oakRiver Sauvignon Complex maturing Blanc 2015 HHH1/2 Blanc 2015 HHH notes. $35Blanc Semillon aromas and simple but Powerful pungent Fresh, simple and lively.2014 HHH1/2 sound palate with a sauvignon blanc aromas. A hint of sugar and Yilgarnia DenmarkAn oaky style with lingering after taste. $25 Light, dry and fresh gooseberry-like fruit Semillon 2014 HHHpretty passionfruit notes Peccavi No Regrets palate. \"Points for characters. Has texture Very fresh and intenseunderneath. Nice oily Margaret River texture,\" said one judge. and length. $17 grassy aromas andtexture on the palate with Sauvignon Blanc $9.99 flavours, somegood flavour intensity. $42 Semillon 2015 HHH OTHER DRY sweetness but has the3 Oceans The Interesting wine; some WHITES acid to balance. $19Explorers Margaret finesse. A pungent noseRiver Sauvignon with a gooseberry life and 7 TASTED RIESLINGBlanc Semillon sherbety flavours. $26 5 AWARDED2013 HHH1/2 Knee Deep in 14 TASTEDAttractive fruit bouquet Margaret River Good results here 6 AWARDEDwith some oak notes. Margaret River for these varietals.Palate is firm and Sauvignon Blanc These wines are often Mixed results with theflavoursome, balanced Semillon 2014 HHH underrated but are few wines reviewedand textured. Nice Complex pungent aromas worth trying. showing a nice balancestyle. $29.99 with wild ferment notes; of sugar and acid.3 Oceans The pleasant perfumed fruit Willespie MargaretExplorers Margaret flavours. $18 River Verdelho Trevelen FarmRiver Sauvignon 2010 HHHH Estate GreatBlanc Semillon Lovely toasty honeyed Southern Riesling2012 HHH1/2 age on the nose and silky 2015 HHHHNicely developed blend smooth in the mouth; still An intense and pungentwith ripe tropical fruit some citrus fruit evident honey/lemon bouquetaromas and flavours and gorgeous toasty end. and an excellent balancednicely balanced by the $20 palate offering lovelycitrus-like acidity. $29.99 mouthfilling varietal flavours. $25JUDGES - DAY 1 Erin Larkin Mark Baird Marketing Co-Ordinator Senior winemaker, Jane Charlotte Newton & Buyer, Liquor Barons Brook Estate. Judge at Lecturer in sensory evaluation Group. Completed WSET Swan valley wine show. & wine production at 1,2,3 courses. Judged at Has vintaged in Swan Curtin University. Formerly the Qantas wine Show Valley, Margaret River winemaker for Devil’s Lair 2014 & and 2015. Regular and Great southern. winery. Previously also at radio and print wine Consulted for other Coldstream Hills (Yarra Valley) commentator in Perth. wine clients. with vintages in Chablis, Languedoc and Canterbury (NZ). Associate judge at the Margaret River wine show.66 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

regional tastingBellarmine Half-Dry Howard Park Mount 3 Drops Great Jane BrookPemberton Riesling Barker Riesling Southern Shovelgate Vineyard2014 HHH1/2 2015 HHH Chardonnay Margaret RiverA pretty wine; slightly Simple scented soap-like 2014 HHHH1/2 Chardonnaysweet with fruity floral aromas and delicate line Very attractive varietal 2013 HHHHfragrances and a fine of citrus flavours. Drying fruit with nice nutty The wine is still verypalate, lots of finesse on the finish. $33 cashew oak. There is fresh with the oak givingwith drying finish. $24 balance and intensity on sweet flavours and theBellarmine Select CHARDONNAY both the nose and palate age serving to softenPemberton Riesling and has a great tight acid the edges and create2014 HHH1/2 28 TASTED finish. $27 complexity. $30Honey, lime and musky 15 AWARDED Truffle Hillaromas and an off-dry Pemberton Greedy Sheep Singlelime juice palate with the A range of styles in this Chardonnay Vineyard Alchemyacid in perfect balance group from the big and 2014 HHHH1/2 Margaret Riverwith the sugar. $24 broad to the lean and Very impressive and ChardonnayRockcliffe Third keen styles. \"Be careful pronounced honey dew 2014 HHH1/2Reef Great Southern about the oak and use it melon bouquet with light Nicely balanced wineRiesling 2015 HHH judiciously,\" suggested use of oak. Very stylish with lovely fruit intensityA classic WA riesling one judge. palate with lovely flavour and the judicious usestyle. Aromatic bouquet; profile and firm acid of oak with a crisp acidall roses and talc. Fine Talisman Ferguson backbone. $30 backbone. $30flinty lime palate. $28 Valley Chardonnay3 Drops Great 2014 HHHH1/2 Upper Reach Thompson EstateSouthern Riesling An interesting and Reserve Swan Valley Margaret River2015 HHH delicious chardonnay with Chardonnay ChardonnayLight pungent melon a flinty fruity nose with 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2bouquet and excellent a smoky note. Flavours A rich old fashioned style Sweet/sour varietalpalate with dry white of pears, lemons and and good varietal fruit fruit characters shiningflavours showing a herbal nectarines balanced by a with a tight oak support. through the powerful oak.edge. $25 nice line of acid. $32 Nice palate texture makes Has a lovely mineral-like it very drinkable. $32 element to it. $50 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 67

BEST OF THE WESTRockcliffe Third Vinaceous Shakre ROSÉ Gilberts Mt Barker PINOT NOIRReef Great Southern Margaret River Rosé 2015 HHHHChardonnay Chardonnay 8 TASTED Vibrant pink with slightly 6 TASTED2015 HHH 2015 HHH 6 AWARDED confectionery strawberry 4 AWARDEDDelicate stonefruit Fresh and lively with A solid class with notes on the nose andaromas with nutty notes. nice varietal notes and many showing some a fresh lively strawberry A small group of veryPalate is a good balance a hint of steeliness. residual sweetness. and cream palate. nice pinots. Genuineof fruit, acid and subtle \"Happy to drink it,\" said Nice commercial styles Phenolics add balance. varietal charactersoak. $30 one judge. $22.99 offering delicious $20 obvious here which Yilgarnia Due flavours but confusing Alkoomi White Label surprised the judges.A.C. Byrne & Co South Denmark in the sense that Frankland RiverMargaret River Chardonnay consumers wouldn't Rosé 2015 HHH1/2 Abbey CreekChardonnay 2015 HHH know whether the wines Pastel pink hues, savoury Porongurup Pinot2015 HHH Bright unwooded style were dry or sweet. musky aromatics and Noir 2012 HHHH1/2Well-made, more delicate of chardonnay with good lively fresh red fruit Dark earthy berrystyle of chardonnay with depth and intensity of Latitude 34 Crush flavours on a lively drier bouquet with a lift ofinteresting lees work with varietal aromas and Western Australia style of palate. $15 spice. Excellent varietala hint of oak. $9.99 flavours. $15 Rosé 2015 HHHH Vinaceous Salome fruit purity on the livelyYilgarnia Unoaked 3 Oceans The Estate More of a savoury than Western Australia palate with slightlyDenmark Margaret River - sweet style with aromas Rosé 2015 HHH1/2 savoury notes and theChardonnay Frankland River and flavours ranging from Surprisingly pleasing wine lovely fine tannins teasing2015 HHH Chardonnay light red berries to apricot with good fruit expression out the palate. $35Clean and lean with 2014 HHH characters. Fresh on the on the nose with a dryingaromas and flavours Nose has tight citrus finish. $12 palate showing good Abbey Creekbordering on the notes with a clean well- flavour depth. $22.99 Porongurup Pinotgrapefruit/honeydew textured palate and a Brygon Reserve Bin Noir 2013 HHHHmelon spectrum. $19 minerally element. $21.99 808 Margaret River Pretty red fruit/spicy oak Heydon Estate The Rosé 2014 HHH1/2 bouquet and lovely ripe Willow Margaret Flinty meaty characters plum flavours building River Chardonnay on the nose and great on the palate. Nice silky 2012 HHH length of perfumed smooth tannins and Holding together well. berry flavours on the subtle oak. $30 Nice complexity of nicely textured palate. cashews and stonefruit $19.99 Trevelen Farm The with the acid keeping it The Blackwood Maritime Great fresh. $50 Rushy Creek Southern Pinot Noir Brygon Reserve Blackwood Valley 2014 HHH1/2 Gold Label Vintage Rosé 2015 HHH Earthy nose; some sour Reserve Margaret A crowd pleaser cherry and strawberry River Chardonnay with its pretty light aromas. Firm and simple 2010 HHH raspberry/strawberry in the mouth with forest Attractive butterscotch- fruit with some residual floor undertones. $23 like age to this wine. sweetness. $15 Good fruit/acid/age Paul Conti balance. Still quite fresh. Pemberton Pinot $19.95 Noir 2014 HHH Cherry aromas with rhubarb notes and ripe plumy palate with a spicy spike and supple tannins. $25JUDGES - DAY 2 Ann Marie Tamburri Peter Bradbeer Retail Manager at La Vigna Liquor retailer of 20 Tony Devitt Wine Store. Has vintaged years plus. Former wine Director of Ashbrook at Laughing Jack Wines educator and judge at Estate Wines. Judge at and visited vineyards in the Mt Barker wine the Perth Royal Wine Champagne, Tuscany, show and consults to Show for the past 30 Burgundy, Jura and Verona. various Australian wine years and recently panel Judged at Perth Hills and companies. chairman. Also panel Swan Valley wine shows, chairman at WA Wine and Associate Judge at Perth Show, and other regional Royal, Mount Barker and shows. Has judged in Geographe wine shows. South Africa.68 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

regional tastingOTHER RED MyattsField Woody Nook Killdog Truffle HillVARIETALS & Vineyard Carmel Creek Margaret Pemberton MerlotBLENDS Valley Dudley Durif River Tempranillo 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 An earthy minty nose20 TASTED Lifted aromatic nose A bouquet of fresh and nice meaty berry fruit13 AWARDED of currants, berries and currants with coffee flavours with obvious herbs with a perfumed notes. \"Love the flavour grainy tannins. $30A very consistent class lift. Lovely retention of follow through,\" said one Redgate Bin 588of interesting wines on fresh berry fruit density judge. Plenty of oomph Margaret River Redoffer that are well worth on the ripe and somewhat on the finish. $22 Blend 2014 HHHa try for a change from precise palate. $30 Alkoomi Black Berry bouquet withcabernet and shiraz. Label Frankland a savoury touch and Vinaceouos Voodoo River Malbec upfront red berry palateMandalay Road Moon Margaret 2014 HHH1/2 with ripe tannins. $24Geographe Durif River Malbec Vibrant purple wine Jane Brook2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH with dense earthy berry Shovelgate VineyardPerfumed slightly cola-like A well-made - big rich fruit characters, slightly Margaret Rivernose with earthy/savoury chewy wine with bright confectionery characters Malbec 2014 HHHhints. Plush and generous lifted mulberry fruit, and powerful tannins. $24 Perfumed berry lift topalate with good focus of some hints of violets Brygon Reserve the pretty nose and niceliqueur-like cherry flavours and pepper and firm fine The Bruce Margaret savoury edge to theand a great lingering dusty tannins. $24.99 River Merlot sweet fruit/firm tanninfinish. $29.99 2014 HHH palate. $30 Brygon Reserve Brygon Reserve The Medium-bodied with Redgate Margaret Humming Bird Bruce Cellar Reserve slightly lighter greener River Cabernet Series Margaret Margaret River berry fruit spectrum Franc 2014 HHH River Merlot Merlot 2014 HHHH and ripe tannins adding Dark berry/plum aromas 2014 HHHH Spicy plum nose exhibits texture. $19.99 with fresh herbal lift, ripe Lovely aromas in the some funky earthy notes crushed berry/plum palate darker berry spectrum with sweet fruit on a with fine tannins. $40 with a fleshy plumy generous fleshy palate palate, slightly chalky and supple ripe tannins. tannins and acid adding $19.99 brightness. 1-2 $19.99 FIVE OF THE BEST FROM W.A. millbrook winery deep woods estate halliday wine companion 2016 Outstanding, expressive wines from Geographe and Margaret River avail able at leading stockists and online at fogart y wines.com.au enjoy in moder ationFWG34964 State Wine Magazine Insertion_Art2.indd 1 May/June 2016 W I N E1S1/0T3/A20T16E11:04 am69

BEST OF THE WESTLatitude 34 Crush Brygon Reserve Peccavi No Regrets Mandalay Road Mad Fish PremiumWestern Australia Flying High Margaret River Lindsay's Folly Red WesternRed Blend Margaret River Cabernet Merlot Geographe Cabernet Australia Cabernet2013 HHH Cabernet Merlot 2014 HHHH Shiraz 2014 HHH Sauvignon MerlotSubtle chocolaty/dark 2014 HHHH Pure varietal aromas Almost Beaujolais in style 2013 HHHberry nose and slight Cassis nose with hints of and flavours of cassis with light perfumed berry Seamless balance of fruitsyrupy mouthfeel with bell peppers and tobacco and dark berries with bouquet and pretty jubey weight and fine tannins.berry fruit flavours. $12 leaf. Pretty fruit palate, slight prune-like edge. fruit flavours. $29.99 \"Overall a simple impact,\" slightly sweet with fresh Had nice acidity and soft noted one judge. $18CABERNET acid and chalky tannin tannins. $26 A.C. Byrne & Co Knee Deep inBLENDS balance. $19.99 Brygon Reserve Margaret River Margaret River The Bruce Margaret Cabernet Merlot Margaret River24 TASTED River Cabernet 2014 HHH Cabernet Merlot19 AWARDED Merlot 2014 HHH1/2 Savoury and well- 2013 HHH Precise, pure and balanced lighter style. A good food wine. PlentyVery consistent and solid lovely! The gorgeous Interesting tobacco of tannin weight andclass with some strong, cassis fruit sweetness leaf, red capsicum and greenish fruit richnessfresh and generous is well-balanced by eucalypt elements. and balance. $24wines from the 2014 the oak and long fine $9.99 3 Oceans Thevintage and the 13s tannins. $19.99 Yilgarnia Denmark Estates Franklandshowing medium fruit Brygon Reserve Bin Cabernet Merlot River Margaret Riverweight but generally 822 Margaret River 2014 HHH Cabernet Sauvignonthe older vintage wines Cabernet Merlot Nice fruit persistence Merlot 2013 HHHwere either ready to 2014 HHH1/2 here with slight Supple and slightlydrink or already fading Red currant aromas earthiness, fine palate subdued. Jubey blackaway. with herbaceous notes texture and good tannin/ fruit notes, loads of drying and fresh berry flavours oak balance. $21 dusty tannins. $29.99 Brygon Reserve that build on the palate Windance Margaret Millbrook Margaret Humming Bird and linger on the finish. River Cabernet River Cabernet Series Margaret $19.99 Merlot 2013 HHH Sauvignon Malbec River Cabernet Woody Nook Single Nose opens up to red and 2013 HHH Merlot 2014 HHHH Vineyard Margaret black berries and palate Medium-bodied blend Perfumed cassis River Cabernet has nice jammy fruit with fresh dark fruits, fragrances. Well balanced Merlot 2013 HHH1/2 drive. $24 a hint of eucalypt and dark red fruit with lovely Dark and earthy on the balancing acid and tannin drive and length. nose with a spike of spice tannins. $28 Fresh balancing acid and fleshy berry and plum Brygon Reserve backbone. $19.99 flavours. A real crowd Regional Series pleaser. $32 Margaret River Sandalford Margaret Talisman Ferguson Cabernet Merlot River Cabernet Valley Cabernet 2012 HHH Merlot 2014 HHHH Malbec Earthy leathery notes Dark plum and berry 2012 HHH1/2 showing through the fruits with hints of fresh A very oak-driven wine, spicy red fruit characters some berries lift off the with fine supple tannins. nose and there is elegant $19.95 red fruit peeking through Greedy Sheep on the palate. $19.99 Margaret River Cabernet Merlot herbs. Nicely balanced 2012 HHH medium-bodied sweet A sweet, fruit dominant, fruit palate with slightly wine. Some raisins on the chalky tannins. 3-5 nose and jammy nutty $20 notes to the palate. $24JUDGES - DAY 3Hope Metcalf Paul Edwards Dan StockerSenior winemaker Managing Director for Full Winemaker, Deep WoodsSandalford wines. Judged Bottle Wine Education Estate. Judged at theat Macedon Ranges wine & Events Western Timber Towns (WA)show. Has vintaged in Australia. Conducts and Perth wine shows,Macedon, Adelaide Hills, WSET courses and is a 2010 & 2011. FormerlyMargaret River, Clare qualified WSET educator. winemaker for HoughtonValley plus vintages in Beverage strategist for and Giant Steps, YarraFrance and the US. the Cathedral Square Valley. Also, has been a development in Western coffee roaster. Australia.70 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

regional tastingThompson EstateMargaret RiverCabernet Merlot2012 HHHWine has nice balanceand layering of tomatoleaf, Balsamic and redfruit characters. $35CABERNETSAUVIGNON201418 TASTED14 AWARDEDA nice line-up of Brygon Reserveconsistent quality wines Hummingbird Seriesthat are fresh and lively Margaret Riverand made to drink now Cabernet Sauvignonor over the next few 2014 HHHHyears. Lots of clean, Attractive berry spiceprecise varietal definition complexity to the nosewithout leafy green and big firm tannic palateproblems. with red berry and fig-like flavours and sweet spicy notes. $19.99St. Johns Brook The BlackwoodReserve Margaret Captain JamesRiver Cabernet Margaret RiverSauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2014 HHHHH 2014 HHHHA lovely elegant bouquet Funky earthy dark fruitof dark berry fruits with aromas and powerful ripefloral notes and some sweet fruit flavours withslight meatiness. The powerful oak underneath.sweet fruit opens upon Palate is dense andthe palate showing chewy. $45spicy overtones withfine dense tannins. 5+ $45 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 71

BEST OF THE WESTThe Blackwood Brygon Reserve Woody Nook 3 Oceans TheTweed River Third Wheel Gallagher's Choice Explorers MargaretBlackwood Valley Margaret River Margaret River River CabernetCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHA well-balanced full- Brambly, leafier style with Savoury spicy oak A leaner style ofbodied style sitting in the some red berry notes and characters on the cabernet with attractiveleafier/eucalypt spectrum powerful oak and tannins. nose and good length berry bouquet andwith firm tannin adding and concentration excellent balance oflength and structure. 3-5 $19.99 of cassis fruit with flavours. $29.99 5+ $15 Paul Conti Margaret slightly savoury, meaty Brygon Reserve BinBrygon Reserve River Cabernet elements. 3-5 $55 8888 Margaret RiverThe Bruce Margaret Sauvignon Cabernet SauvignonRiver Cabernet 2014 HHH Brygon Reserve 2012 HHHSauvignon Lifted fragrances of Margaret River Earthy rhubarb bouquet2014 HHH1/2 perfumed berries Cabernet Sauvignon and sweet berry palateMinty earthy fruit and very simple but 2012 HHHH with lovely tannins andbouquet and nice line approachable varietal Elegant style that's a crisp acidity. $19.99of sweet berry flavours palate. 3-5 $20 complex mix of cigar box,on this generous palate mocha and black fruit SHIRAZmingling with spices. Brash Vineyard aromas with peppery BLENDS Margaret River notes. Excellent flavour 3-5 $19.99 Cabernet Sauvignon length. $19.95 3 TASTEDAfter Hours 2014 HHH 2 AWARDEDMargaret River Lots of very sweet vanilla Brygon Reserve Bin Brygon ReserveCabernet Sauvignon oak sitting on top of 8888 Margaret River Third Wheel Reserve Vinaceous Red Right2014 HHH1/2 cherry berry fruit with Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Hand Margaret RiverA simple elegant supple tannin support. 2013 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Grenachecabernet with lifted Perfumed cassis and blue 2013 HHH Tempranilloperfumed berry fruit, 3-5 $39.95 fruit aromas fill the glass. Good concentration of 2014 HHHHsweet spicy oak and a The generous palate is slightly raisined fruit Strong ruby-like colour,good level of acidity. Sandalford Estate plump with beautifully characters with hints of excellent fruit-driven Reserve Margaret sweet cabernet fruit and eucalypt and cedary oak. fragrances and lean 3-5 $24 River Cabernet supported by fine tannins simple tannic palate withAlkoomi Black Label Sauvignon - supple, even and long. 3-5 $24.99 good juicy varietal fruitFrankland River 2014 HHH length. $24.99Cabernet Sauvignon Precise and one 5+ $19.99 Galafrey Dry Grown2014 HHH1/2 dimensional. Smells of Brash Vineyard Vineyard Mount MyattsFieldSubdued earthy brambles, dark earth and Margaret River Barker Cabernet Vineyards Carmelfragrances but has leather and tastes of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Valley Shirazgenerous flavours in berries. $45 2013 HHHH1/2 2013 HHH Mourvedre Viognierthe ripe fruit end of the Sweet fruity nose Dark chocolaty licorice 2014 HHHspectrum showing lovely Optimus The opens up to perfumed nose and dense dark Young fragrant violet-likesweetness. $24 Terraces Block 3 spicy characters. Very sweet cassis fruit palate; bouquet and dark punchyRockcliffe Third Western Australia generous sweet cassis soft and subtle. fruit flavours with fineReef Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon palate with great drying tannins. $26Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH flavour intensity nicely 3-5 $302014 HHH1/2 Aromas and flavours moderated by soft SHIRAZ 2014Some leafiness to the sitting in the darker fruit tannin and acid. Peccavi Margaretbrambly fruit nose and a spectrum, layered with River Cabernet 19 TASTEDslight green edge to the chocolaty oak and ripe 5+ $39.95 Sauvignon 11 AWARDEDred fruit flavours with tannins. $85 2013 HHHchalky tannins. Subtle savoury aromas \"Peaks and troughs CABERNET and an oaky palate but here,\" agreed the 3-5 $30 SAUVIGNON evenly balanced with judges. The best winesRedgate Margaret 2013 & OLDER classic cabernet fruit. were \"perfumed,River Cabernet elegant, juicy and lightSauvignon 17 TASTED 5+ $68 on their feet,\" according2014 HHH1/2 to one judge. \"The worstA well-balanced, soft 10 AWARDED Red Gully Reserve had either 'beige' lowand chewy cabernet. Geographe Cabernet fruit characters or funkySome marzipan notes on The 2013 vintage wines Sauvignon microbial issues.\"the berry nose and nice were a strong group of 2013 HHHtannin/fruit balance on classic cabernet styles. A pretty and fragrantpalate. $38 After that a number of choc mint style of the wines had fallen cabernet. It's bright, lively away, despite vibrant and simple with grippy colour and offering tannins. $19.95 more than they actually delivered.72 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

Sandalford Margaret regional tastingRiver Shiraz2014 HHHHH winestate advert.ai 1 28/02/2016 4:04:52 PMLifted perfumed mulberryaromas with peppery Wines for Joanienotes. Lovely line ofsweet berry and plum Tasmaniafruit across the lengthof the palate perfectly balanced by the tanninsand oak. \"Light on its Cfeet.\" $20 M YSandalford Estate CMReserve Margaret MYRiver Shiraz CY2014 HHHH1/2 CMYFragrances in the dark Kfruit spectrum with Soya-like elements. Flavoursof plums, rhubarb andspice with the lovelyacid still ensuring lovelyfreshness. 1-2 $35 The Blackwood SirPeccavi Margaret Henry BlackwoodRiver Shiraz Valley Shiraz2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHHA nose of berry jam and A well-balanced,vanilla oak with a spike of medium-bodied shirazstar anise-like spiciness. with seamless balanceLovely palate sweetness between, dark fruit, softwith delicious fruit chocolaty oak, acid andflavours and spicy oak to tannins. $50balance. 3-5 $52 Brygon Reserve Flying High Margaret River Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Unusual funkiness to the strawberry and cream nose. Lovely drive of slightly confectionery sweet berry fruit flavours. $19.99 Brygon Reserve The Bruce Margaret River Shiraz 2014 HHH Oak tends to dominate the brambly fruit with rhubarb notes and noticeable tannins. 1-2 $19.99Brash Vineyard Brygon Reserve VineyardMargaret River Third Wheel Reserve Cellar DoorShiraz 2014 HHHH Margaret River AccommodationA floral bouquet, some Shiraz 2014 HHHjasmine-like notes. An Funky and floral on theelegant and somewhat nose and good balancesimplistic sweet fruit palate of fruit and ripe tanninswith soft mouthcoating on the palate.tannins. $34.95 3-5 $24.99 Bellarmine Wines for Joanie Pemberton Shiraz 2014 HHH 163 Glendale Rd, Sidmouth TAS 7270 A well-balanced, soft and www.winesforjoanie.com.au [email protected] simple red with perfumed floral bouquet and lovely 03 6394 7005 0429 006 222 palate freshness. $28 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 73

BEST OF THE WESTRockcliffe Third 3 Oceans The Optimus The Greedy Sheep Single Forester EstateReef Great Southern Explorers Frankland Terraces Block 2 Vineyard Margaret Home BlockShiraz 2014 HHH River-Margaret River Blackwood Valley River Shiraz Margaret RiverA simple but pleasant Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHH Shiraz 2012 HHHstyle in the dark spicy 2013 HHHH1/2 Elegant medium-bodied Tending to be a bit oaky All choc mint and redfruit spectrum with charry An attractive and complex shiraz of sweet fruit but does have some berries here. Sweet spicyoak and fine tannins. $30 bouquet of bright lifted integrated with spicy oak nice perfumed berry fruit lift to the nose. Soft and fruit with nice spiciness. and some savoury Bonox- underneath. Very more- rounded in the mouth.Yilgarnia Denmark Good body, balance and like characters. $72 ish! $30Shiraz 2014 HHH palate richness with 3 Oceans The 3-5 $39.99Pleasant peppery nose excellent varietal flavour Estates Margaret Howard Parkwith some meaty profile and length. $29.99 River-Frankland Flint Rock Great SWEETnotes. Slightly jammy River Shiraz Southern Shiraz WHITESfruit palate. Easy tannin Alkoomi Black Label 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHHfinish. $24 Frankland River A very good shiraz with Interesting spicy meaty 1 TASTED Shiraz Viognier excellent spicy peppery bouquet and drying grippy 1 AWARDEDSHIRAZ & 2013 HHHH bouquet and perfect tannic palate with simpleBLENDS Lovely perfumed lift balance of fresh fruit and fruit characters. $28 Truffle Hill2013 & OLDER of berry fruit aromas fine tannins. $21.99 Pemberton Cane underscored by charry Alkoomi White Label Brygon Reserve Cut Riesling 201521 TASTED oak elements. Fresh and Frankland River Third Wheel Reserve (375ml) HHHH1/213 AWARDED lively sweet berry/violet Shiraz 2013 HHH Margaret River Lovely intense botrytis flavours. 3-5 $24 Light and simple with Shiraz 2012 HHH marmalade-likeA consistent group, with slight green edge to A pleasant blend of complexity to the noseoak handling or lighter Windance Reserve the perfumed red fruit. jammy red berry fruit, and a very sweet, brightfruit the main issues. Margaret River Spicy spike and chalky some stalky elements, and lively palate that'sThe best here were Shiraz 2011 HHHH tannins. $15 Soya sauce and fine rich and yet clean andsucculent, mid-weight Fresh floral fragrances Windance Margaret tannins. 1-2 $24.99 carried by the acidwines that offer an with some crushed River Shiraz backbone. $35alternative to the big berries added. Similar 2013 HHH Old Kent Riverblockbusters. characters obvious on A subtlety of spices on Frankland River the succulent palate. a subdued nose. Tightly Shiraz 2012 HHH Great tannin length. woven dark cherry palate Nicely balanced with fine tannic spine. moderately long with 3-5 $32 a slight green edge to 3-5 $24 the jammy stewed-like Paul Conti fruit. $29 Mariginiup Western Australia Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Full-bodied oak-driven wine with some subtle varietal fruit, cola notes, good tannins and vibrant acidity. $28Effective water treatment for : • Dripper Scale • Salinity • Pipe scale • Canopy growth • Iron scale • Brix & Baume www.hydrosmart.com.au H Y D R O S M A R T 1300 138 223 I am happy to recommend use of Hydrosmart to any grower, considering adapting it to their site’s water, as it has added real value to our business. After using it for well over a decade we plan using Hydrosmart on all d’Arenberg bores, well into the next successful decade of growing and winemaking. - Giulio Dimasi Viticulturalist / Grower Relations d’Arenberg Osborn Road McLaren Vale SA74 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

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travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCENTRAL & WESTERN NSW antipasti plate on Friday and Saturday nights. Ferment. The Orange Wine Centre, 87 Hill St, Orange, is open 11am-8pm Tuesday to Saturday; phone (02) 6360 4833. www.orangewinecentre.com.au.STEPPING UP LOCAL FLAVOURS TRANSFORMING THE PASTONE of the newest restaurants in Orange FERMENT. The Orange Wine Centre, is the A RENAISSANCE is underway in Centralis Stepping Stone, offering a range of perfect place to taste wines from several of NSW as historic buildings and lanewayscontemporary dishes with Italian and the smaller producers in the central west are being re-born as cafes, wine bars andFrench influences in the premises previously who do not have their own cellar doors. boutique accommodation. Central NSWoccupied by Bistro Ceello. Thomas Grasso Housed in a preserved heritage building that Tourism is promoting some of the mostand his wife Gabrielle have worked in was once home to the Hibernian Society, dramatic transformations - Orange’s Thehospitality for a combined 30 years and Ferment has a sleek European-style interior Black Sheep Inn is a century-old shearingdecided midway through last year that the and uses a state-of-the-art Enomatic wine shed, Bathurst’s The Church Bar was atime was right to open their own restaurant. dispenser, which allows visitors to sample former school house and Cowra’s The MillDishes such as wild mushroom gnocchi and and purchase a range of exceptional is now a restaurant and cellar door. “Localsthe slow-cooked wagyu blade proved to be local wines, curated by wine expert Peter are embracing the unique cultural heritageearly hits with diners looking for an upmarket Bourne, who also uses the facility to host of the region, restoring old buildings thatexperience in the town. “The aim is to some of his wine classes. Ferment serves were once mills, churches, shops, schoolsprovide fine dining for special occasions as the Orange cellar door for Black Wines, and convents, into vibrant tourism spaces,”such as anniversaries and birthdays,” said Carillion Wines, Cook’s Lot, Darragh Wines, says Lucy White, Central NSW TourismGrasso, who has previously worked at Gartelmann Wines, Faisan Wines, Montoro executive officer.regional stand-outs Lolli Redini, Racine and Wines, Roaring Fork Wines, Topers WinesBasalt. He said while Orange already had and Zinga Wines. Ferment’s selection In Bathurst, The Church Bar, a funky bara number of good restaurants, the couple showcases wines from the Central Ranges and wood-fired pizza restaurant is locatedwanted to “expose Orange to a new avenue of NSW and beyond, and there is a selection in the former Old Anglican School House onof food”. Set on a tree-lined street, across of snack dishes available to accompany Ribbon Gang Lane, while Cobblestone Lanethe road from Matthews Park, Stepping the wines by the glass, ranging from mixed is an award-winning restaurant housed withinStone is at 179 Anson St, Orange; phone olives to dukkah with olive oil and bread, the Webb & Co department store building,(02) 6361 1179. cheese platters, a salumi board and an once one of the largest retail businesses outside of Sydney. In Mudgee, the Mudgee Brewing Co is in a huge 100-year-old red brick former wool store, once owned by the Anglican Church, while Perry Street Hotel, once the Mechanics Institute in an 1862 building, has undergone a dramatic transformation to become 13 stylish modern suites. www.perrystreethotel.com.au. The Old Parkes Convent, built in 1910, has been restored to its former glory and now operates as a beautiful bed and breakfast with enclosed verandas and old-world charm (www.parkesconvent.com.au), while Grenfell Hall B&B is a former convent reborn as bed and breakfast accommodation. www. go.grenfell.org.au/grenfellhall. For more details visit www.visitcentralnsw.com.au.76 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

travelbriefsGOLDEN BLEND pantry staples and gourmet food lines. on Emu Swamp Rd at an elevation of 900m. The Agrestic Grocer is also the official www.sassywines.com.au.THE latest release of Mudgee Gold, a retail outlet for Badlands Brewery and theregional collaboration between Mudgee’s Second Mouse Cheese Company, whose With a cellar door in historic Millthorpe,grape growers and winemakers is products are produced on site, and uses the Slow Wine Co. recently re-brandednow available. Since 1999, Mudgee’s Orange Roasting Company coffee.The idea from its former Bantry Grove label to reflectwinemakers have collaborated on Mudgee behind The Agrestic Grocer was to create more on the vineyard’s philosophy of smallGold, which is a blend of gold-medal a conduit between the region’s growers lot selection, hand-picking, native yeastswinning wines from the annual Mudgee and producers, and the local community. and slow maturation. Slow is open Friday,Wine Show. The blend varies each year, Communicating the origin of products along Saturday, Sunday and public holidaysdepending on the winning winemakers, and with the story of the producers behind them 11am–5pm at 25 Victoria st, Millthorpe, asis a snapshot of the best red wine produced was a priority, and there is the bonus of live well as at several regional country markets.in the region in a given year. music some weekends. SHAW THING The latest release is the 2013 Gold Shiraz The Agrestic Grocer is at 426 MitchellCabernet blending from the winning wines Hwy, Orange; phone (02) 6360 4604. It is HE started out making wine using a bathtubof four Mudgee growers. The 2013 vintage open 8.30am-5.30pm Monday-Friday and and lemonade bottles at 12, and nowcomprises Robert Stein Shiraz, Vinifera 8.30am-4pm at weekends. Philip Shaw is recognised as one of theCabernet Sauvignon, Robert Oatley Shiraz world’s leading winemakers after stintsand Logan Shiraz. The finished wine is a There are also several new cool-climate with Rosemount Estate and Southcorp. Hecollaborative blend by winemakers Jacob wine producers in the Orange region, has twice been named the InternationalStein, Andrew Ling, Liam Heslop, Duncan including Heifer Station, where Michelle Winemaker of the Year at the LondonLloyd and Lisa Bray. “As this wine is sourced and Phillip Strivens bought a dilapidated International Wine and Spirit Competitionfrom a number of producers the vinification vineyard at Borenore at an altitude of 900m (1986 and 2000), and received the Grahammethods vary greatly,” Stein said. Following on the volcanic basalt slopes of Mount Gregory Trophy for outstanding contributionselection of the individual components Canobolas. After much hard work, the to the Australian wine industry. Shawby the 2013 Mudgee Wine Show judges, former corporate couple now produces established his own vineyard in the Orangethe blend was matured in a French oak chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot gris, merlot and region in 1989 after searching Australiapuncheon for a further six months. The wine shiraz, which can be found on lists at Lolli to find the best site in an emerging wine-was then bottled into six jeroboams and Redini and the Union Bank, among others. growing region. Today, Philip Shaw Wines700 bottles by the contributing winemakers. The cellar door is housed in the Old Wool are sourced entirely from the family’sProceeds from the sale of the 2013 Mudgee Shed on the property at 1034 The Escort high-altitude, cool-climate KoomoolooGold Cabernet Shiraz will be invested Way, Borenore; phone 0407 621 150. Vineyard in Orange. The Shaw philosophyback in to the region via the Mudgee Wine is: “Every wine should be placed on itsTechnical Committee. Mudgee Gold is Rowlee Wines, at 19 Lake Canobolas own canvas and not replicate others. Youavailable at a range of restaurants and from Rd, is another new name on the Orange should be guiding the direction of thea number of Mudgee wineries. wine scene, with leading Hunter Valley wine not controlling it - always challenging winemaker PJ Charteris acting as consultant the achievements.” No visit to Orange isNEWCOMERS MAKE THEIR winemaker. The cellar door is open from complete without a stop at the new PhilipMARK 10am-5pm, weekends and public holidays. Shaw Wines bluestone cellar door, a converted former dairy, which is open sevenTHE Agrestic Grocer is an impressive Also new is Sassy Wines, owned and days a week from 11am-5pm at 100 ShiraleeOrange newcomer that should be on the operated by viticulturist Rob Coles and Rd, Orange; phone (02) 6362 0710.radar of any visiting foodie. his wife Felicia, who specialise in arneis and pinot noir. The property was bought in Top Left: Agrestic Grocer Orange, exterior. It is a cafe/retail store with a focus on 2004 and planted in 2005, and the wines Top right: Philip Shaw cellar door.local, “real” food, selling fresh seasonal are made by Peter Logan. The smart new Opposite pageproduce direct from producers, deli items, cellar door, with a spacious timber deck Left: Ferment The Orange Wine Centre, interior. overlooking the Sassy vineyards, is located Right top: Church Bar Bathurst pizza. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 77

172 TASTED88 AWARDEDCENTRAL & WESTERN NSWThese are cool climate regions and it is reflected in the wines Cooks Lot Allotment Simon Gilbertwhere chardonnay and riesling are the front runners. Strong 333 Orange Riesling Orange Rieslingtannins are a feature with all the reds and when these are 2015 HHHH 2012 HHHHkept in check some superb wines are on show. An attractive citrus- Toasty aged aromas driven nose with floral and a drying toasty fragrances. The light- palate showing plenty of bodied palate is juicy interesting characters and and lime-like. Some good flavour depth and sweetness balanced by length. 1-2 $26 acid. $22SPARKLING Lowe Wines Moppity Vineyards Lowe Vineyards Gentleman's Hilltops Riesling Tinja Mudgee10 TASTED Daughter Orange 2015 HHHH Riesling4 AWARDED Pinot Noir Cuvée Minerally characters on 2015 HHH1/2 2012 HHH the citrus dominated Starting to show toastyMixed bag! \"Although a Nose has some nose and good fruit honeyed developmentbit overworked in some complexity and interest. weight on the delicate, on nose and palate withcases,\" noted one judge, High level of acid on the but slightly chewy, some mineral elements\"there are still some weighty fruit palate. $45 textured palate. and lingering acid. $22nice drinkable exampleshere\". RIESLING & 5+ $22 Robert Stein TRAMINER Moppity Vineyards Mudgee since 1976Moppity Vineyards Hilltops Riesling Mudgee RieslingLock & Key Reserve 14 TASTED 2015 HHHH 2015 HHH1/2Hilltops Sparkling 13 AWARDED Subtle minerally lime Showing some age andShiraz 2013 HHH1/2 aromas and a high acid interest and has bagsAttractive bright red fruit A strong class showing palate with more of of citrus-driven flavoursbouquet with nice aged a broad range of those mineral characters underscored by goodcomplexity sweet fruit- sweetness. With high mingling with some level of acidity. $25driven palate with lots of levels of acid, a touch of good variety fruit.drying tannins. $22 sugar can go really well Angullong Fossil gilbert by in the Germanic style of Hill Orange Riesling 5+ $32 simon gilbertCoppabella rieslings. 2015 HHHH1/2 Lowe Vineyards Orange RieslingSingle Vineyard Leaning towards an off- Tinja Mudgee 2015 HHH1/2Tumbarumba dry style with sweetness Riesling 2014 HHHH A good example of styleProsecco 2015 HHH slightly dominating the A classic riesling style. with a floral nose and aA simple fragrant wine fruits. Attractive floral/ Delicate pear drop slight hint of kerosenewith light floral/sherbety citrus complexity on the aromas and subtle, and more floral charactersaromas and a zesty nose and good length of slightly sweet flavours on the palate. $36stonefruit and pear palate. citrus flavours on a nicely with some oiliness and a$20 textured palate. lingering finish. Manners Mudgee GewurztraminerCoppabella 3-5 $22 5+ $22 2012 HHH1/2Single Vineyard Robert Stein Lowe Vineyards A dry style of GewurtzTumbarumba Pinot Reserve Mudgee Nullo Mountain with good balance andChardonnay Riesling Mudgee Riesling texture, tropical fruit2014 HHH 2015 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH characters with just a hintEvolved yeasty nutty Pear drops and flowers An aged riesling with of stonefruit. $20intensity on nose and lift off this lovely nose and kerosene charactersnicely textured, slightly there is great persistence developing. A lot of Bunnamagoo Estatesweet, palate. $30 of pleasant floral flavours varietal fruit depth, strong Mudgee Riesling nicely wrapped up in an mineral elements and a 2015 HHH attractive level of acid. high level of acid. $50 A very well-balanced and flavoursome wine 5+ $50 with beautiful length and intensity of citrus fruit. $21.9578 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

regional tastingOTHER PINOT GRIS/ Robert Oatley SAUVIGNONDRY WHITE GRIGIO Vineyards Wild Oats BLANC &VARIETALS & Mudgee Pinot Grigio BLENDSBLENDS 6 TASTED 2015 HHH 4 AWARDED Green apple bouquet 11 TASTED2 TASTED and lovely elegant \"A tough variety,\" said flavoursome red apple/ 4 AWARDED1 AWARDED one judge. \"These wines pear palate. $17.95 need food and rarely Cooks Lot Allotment A small diverse classOne nice drinking blend perform well in blind 666 Orange Pinot of wines. The besthere. tastings.\" However, Gris 2015 HHH had balance the others there are some fine Delicate light pear nose didn't! examples below. and well-balanced palateErnest Schuetz with subtle tropical-like Moppity VineyardsEstate St Isabel XIII Robert Oatley flavours. $22Mudgee Pinot Blanc Vineyards Philip Shaw The Lock & Key Pocketwatch Gardener Orange Single VineyardChardonnay Pinot Central Ranges Pinot Gris TumbarumbaGris 2014 HHH Pinot Gris 2015 HHHHoney floral nose and rich 2015 HHHH Nice nutty mineral Sauvignon Blanc A pleasant wine with aromas and a very dry 2015 HHHH1/2toasty sweet lemon curd- simple pear fruit aromas and nutty palate with just \"This wine is spot onlike flavours with a clean and a fleshy sweet fruit a hint of honey. $22finish. 1-2 $40 palate. Good flavour varietally,\" said one intensity and nice judge with its powerful lingering nutty finish. aromas of green Windowrie Pig in $16.95 capsicum and herbs the House Certified and a zesty fresh palate Organic Cowra that fills the mouth with Sauvignon Blanc flavour. 1-2 $22 2015 HHHH Nice nettley/tropical fruit nose and a round and creamy palate with ripe tropical flavours and very good firm acid backbone. $25 Great Wines from Great Regions Mudgee Hunter Valley Orange www.gartelmann.com.au [email protected] 701 Lovedale Road, Lovedale Hunter Valley, NSW 2320, Australia Phone (02) 4930 7113 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 79

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSWCoppabella CHARDONNAY Robert Oatley Ross Hill Maya Philip Shaw No 11Single Vineyard Montrose Stony & Max Orange Orange ChardonnayTumbarumba 22 TASTED Creek Mudgee Chardonnay 2014 HHHSauvignon Blanc 15 AWARDED Chardonnay 2015 HHH A true buttery toasty2015 HHH1/2 2014 HHHH Subtle yet strong apple oaky style of chardonnaySubtle cut grass bouquet A nice selection of A lemon melon bouquet aromas and simple palate with a rich opulent citrusand a well-balanced diverse wines from the and a well-rounded with lingering fruit profile. palate. $35palate with good green light and subtle to the stonefruit and oak palate $20capsicum varietal flavour intense. Some were that is held together Cooks Lot Allotment ROSÉintensity. $20 surprisingly oaky with nicely by the crisp acid 168 Orange either excess oak or backbone. $22.95 Chardonnay 7 TASTEDCooks Lot Allotment poor quality oak. But Bunnamagoo Estate 2015 HHH 4 AWARDED689 Orange overall, it was pleasing 1827 Hand Picked Pungent citrussy noseSauvignon Blanc to see most wines had Reserve Central and crisp upfront sweet Some very nice2015 HHH appropriate use of oak Ranges Chardonnay fruit palate with good acid examples of well-Peachy pungent underlying quality fruit. 2013 HHHH levels. $22 balanced rosés here.nose and a grassy A pleasant toasty vanilla di Lusso Estateherbaceous palate. Centennial nose and a nice creamy, Mudgee Chardonnay Madzi 3 MudgeeSlightly sweet but has Vineyards Reserve nutty palate with crisp 2015 HHH Rosé NV HHH1/2the acid to balance. $22 Single Vineyard and intense mouth filling Rich oily powerful Juicy and elegant style Orange Chardonnay lemon curd-like citrus oak-driven chardonnay of rosé with savourySEMILLON & 2014 HHHHH flavours. $39.95 made in the full-bodied strawberry aromas and aBLENDS A lovely silky smooth Robert Oatley The traditional style. $26 delightful floral pot pourri style of chardonnay with Pennant Mudgee Angullong Orange of a palate. $NA4 TASTED a slightly pungent nutty/ Chardonnay Chardonnay2 AWARDED oatmeal nose and a 2013 HHHH 2014 HHH Cooks Lot Allotment simple fruit/oak flavour Lifted nose with obvious Powerful creamy nose 365 Orange RoséTwo good examples profile on the palate with oak and a crisp palate still and a lively zesty fresh 2015 HHH1/2here. a long lingering finish. $30 holding its age well with palate with racy citrus A well-balanced style a toasty, buttery citrus- flavours. $19 with a nose that isVinifera Mudgee Coppabella Sirius driven flavour profile. $70 Moppity Vineyards slightly herbal and floralSemillon 2015 HHH Tumbarumba Ernest Schuetz Lock & Key with intensely focusedToasty honeyed nose Chardonnay Terra X Mudgee Single Vineyard redcurrant/cherryand crisp dry light-bodied 2014 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2015 Tumbarumba flavours. $22citrus palate. Good Delicate citrus fruit HHH1/2 Chardonnaycommercial style. $23 bouquet with a hint of Attractive peach, melon 2014 HHH Coppabella new oak and an elegant and oak aromas and a Tight citrus varietal fruit Single VineyardBunnamagoo Estate palate with a nice crisp crisp taught palate with with a good oak profile Tumbarumba PinotCentral Ranges lemon/citrus fruit profile nice acidity showing a and some lemony-like Rosé 2015 HHHSemillon 2013 HHH supported by well- greenish edge. $19 acidity. $22 Light, dry and crisp wine.Buttery toasty aromas handled creamy oak. $30 Robert Oatley Ross Hill Monocle Pale salmon colour, nicelyand complex creamy Finisterre Mudgee Orange Chardonnay balanced flavours andpalate. Lovely citrus Moppity Vineyards Chardonnay 2014 HHH crisp acidity. $20flavours and crisp Tumbarumba 2014 HHH1/2 Toasty malo-drivenacidity. $21.95 Chardonnay A modern style with a aromas and some old Moppity Vineyards 2014 HHHH1/2 powerful roasty toasty fashioned peach/melon- Lock & Key Hilltops Slightly neutral nose with nose and great palate like fruit flavours. $30 Rosé 2015 HHH a touch of toastiness and balance and flavour Strawberry bouquet and has a well-balanced zesty, profile with citrussy loads of fresh strawberry dry, citrus-driven palate acid. $32.95 fruit on the crisp and underscored by vanilla delicate palate. $22 oak with a lovely long lingering finish. $32JUDGES Clive Hartley James Manners Daniel Shaw Senior head teacher, Senior winemaker and Winemaker at Philip food and beverage, at winery manager for Oatley Shaw Wines, Orange. Ryde College of TAFE. Wines. Formerly winemaker Formerly group Leading national wine at Poet’s Corner, with two winemaker at Delegats educator and author. years as winemaker at Wines, New Zealand, Judge at the NSW Inniskillin Wines in Canada. Punt Road Wines, Wine Awards and the Regular judge at Mudgee Yarra. Plus winemaking Australian and New and small winemaker wine in California, Italy and Zealand Organic Wine shows. France at various Show. wineries.80 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

regional tastingPINOT NOIR Ross Hill Monocle Orange Pinot Noir10 TASTED 2014 HHH6 AWARDED Simple sour cherry/berry bouquet and good juicyA difficult variety to freshness on the palatemake with the below with its very dryingexamples standing out finish. $30from the crowd. Ross Hill PinnacleCoppabella Orange Series Orange PinotPinot Noir Noir 2014 HHH2014 HHHH1/2 Sour cherry and forest\"Good pinosity here,\" floor aromas with goodnoted one judge. Subtle balance between varietaloaky/herbal/berry nose fruit and oak flavours. $40and a dry and well-balanced palate with OTHER REDnice length of earthy VARIETALS &forest floor fruit flavours. BLENDS$20 18 TASTEDCooks Lot Allotment 10 AWARDED1111 Orange PinotNoir 2015 HHHH \"Too many wines hadComplex varietal aromas high levels of acidity,of sour cherries and even those at the riperstrawberries with a hint end of the spectrum,\"of spice. Slightly green said one judge. Butand herbal on the toasty overall there is a lot ofpalate. $22 potential with these varieties as they workCoppabella on the savoury ratherSingle Vineyard than the fruit spectrum.Tumbarumba PinotNoir 2014 HHH Madzi d MudgeeSavoury smoky nose Sangiovesewith slight pine-like lift NV HHHHand delicate, appealing, Vibrant aromas of ripecranberry fruit palate. strawberry and blueberry$20 fruits with a nicely textured savoury palateDomaine Rogha and some sour cherryCrois Canberra flavour intensity. $NADistrict Pinot Noir2014 HHHSavoury aromas and avelvety smooth mealypalate, a tad warm withnice bright acidity. $30JUDGES Clio Giudici Sommelier for Cellarlink and Artisan Wine Storage. Advanced level WSET course. Master level at Court of Master Sommeliers. Judge at Sommeliers Wine Awards, London and at Concorde Macon (France) Wine Show. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 81

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSWRoss Hill Isabelle Centennial Moppity Vineyards Vinifera Organic Robert Oatley WildOrange Cabernet Vineyards Reserve Lock & Key Single Mudgee Cabernet Oats Mudgee ShirazFranc Merlot Single Vineyard Vineyard Hilltops Sauvignon Cabernet 2014 HHH2014 HHH1/2 Orange Barbera Merlot 2014 HHH1/2 2013 HHH Nice concentrationPeppery chocolaty 2014 HHH Refreshing fresh fruit Interesting meaty notes and intensity of jubeybouquet with a hint of Savoury smoky characters aromas and ripe varietal to the nose with sweet blackberry fruit andmint and a soft choc mint to the simple fruit nose flavours with good level berry flavours and nice licorice aromas andpalate showing some and bright crisp sweet fruit of toasty oak characters drying tannins. $39 flavours. $17.95attractive complexity. $25 palate. $30 underneath. $22Manners Hilltops SHIRAZ Cooks Lot AllotmentTempranillo Ross Hill Pinnacle Gartelmann Joey 2015 & 2014 1010 Orange Shiraz2014 HHH1/2 Series Orange Mudgee Merlot 2014 HHHA ripe oak-driven wine Cabernet Franc 2013 HHH 22 TASTED A rich velvety winewith good fresh juicy 2013 HHH Pleasant earthy aromas 7 AWARDED brimming over with jubeyvarietal fruit interest and Strong peppermint and a soft red fruit palate blackberry fruit and aa lovely long chocolaty patty nose with more with a high level of Whilst the results seem dash of spice. $22finish. $30 of the same on the acidity. $25 average each judgeAngullong Fossil palate. Tannins nicely had their favourites and Robert SteinHill Orange Barbera in check. $40 CABERNET & generally agreed that Mudgee since 19762013 HHH1/2 BLENDS these were good solid Mudgee ShirazPlums and cherries Vinifera Organic drinks. \"Many of these 2014 HHHon the nose; slight Mudgee Graciano 19 TASTED were made along the Spicy chocolaty oak-drivenherbaceous edge. Rich 2013 HHH 4 AWARDED Spanish 'joven' style - wine but well matched bycrisp blue fruit flavours Intense spicy berry/ that is youthful, jubey, a good intensity of blackintensity with soft licorice aromas and rich The judges were very fresh and lively\". fruits. $25tannins. $24 ripe blackberry flavours disappointed with this with toasty oak and fresh group of wines. \"Here Moppity Vineyards SHIRAZ 2013Vinifera Organic acidity. $49 we have acid and tannin Hilltops Shiraz & OLDERMudgee Tempranillo in play again,\" said one 2014 HHHH2015 HHH Gartelmann Mudgee judge. \"Too many were Dark purple hues, intense 12 TASTEDIntense and complex Petit Verdot simply too green and jubey blackberry aromas 8 AWARDEDwine. Good sour cherry/ 2012 HHH hard on the palate.\" The and a long chewy tanniccola varietal characters, More of a fruit-driven best had ripe, not green, palate with bitter cherry A better result thandrying tannins, good style with hints of tannins and ripe, but not and plum flavours. $22 the 2014-2015 vintage.acidity. $25 spices, plum sauce and jammy, fruit. These wines showedMoppity Vineyards chocolate. $35 Moppity Vineyards strong red fruit andLock & Key Hilltops Moppity Vineyards Reserve Hilltops spice rather than sweetTempranillo MERLOT & Lock & Key Single Shiraz 2014 HHHH jammy fruit.2014 HHH BLENDS Vineyard Hilltops Spicy and smoky onSour cherry nose with a Cabernet Sauvignon the nose leading on Philip Shaw No 89cola edge and savoury 12 TASTED 2014 HHHH to a soft and delicate Orange Shirazflavour profile with silky 3 AWARDED A vibrant berry fruit spicy floral palate that 2013 HHHH1/2tannins. $27 bouquet and intense ripe has a very good velvety \"Great expression of the \"Another tough variety,\" leafy fruit flavours layered mouthfeel. $27 shiraz grape,\" enthused said one judge. \"It with earthy minerality and the judges. Fragrant is often green and good chewy tannins. $22 Cooks Lot Allotment violet-like bouquet with herbaceous and often 8 Orange Shiraz some spicy elements. idiosyncratic in its Moppity Vineyards 2015 HHH1/2 Savoury palate; good structure. They ranged Hilltops Cabernet Aromatic, fragrant and varietal fruit flavours with from the tannic to the Sauvignon floral with a dash of soft tannins. $50 ripe and excessively 2014 HHHH pepper and tasting of sweet.\" Nice concentration of sweet berries laced with gilbert by simon dark red currant aromas some spices. $19 gilbert Single Robert Oatley Wild with hints of chocolate. Vineyard Orange Oats Mudgee Merlot Quite a sweet and Centennial Shiraz 2013 HHHH 2014 HHHH extracted palate with Vineyards Reserve Very oaky nose with An earthy nose with good level of acidity. $22 Single Vineyard some sweet vanilla slight green peppery Orange Shiraz notes. More oak on the notes. Savoury palate Moppity Vineyards 2014 HHH1/2 palate with soft sweet has plenty of oak with Lock & Key Reserve A nice range of red fruit berry fruit underneath. reasonable fruit weight Hilltops Cabernet aromas and flavours with Has a savoury edge. $32 and concentration. Sauvignon a hint of spicy chocolaty $17.95 2014 HHH oak and high level of Ross Hill Monocle A bouquet of red berries acidity. $30 Hilltops Shiraz and sweet vanilla with 2013 HHH1/2 intense berry flavours Spicy and floral on the supported by well- nose and good varietal handled oak. $27 fruit value on the nicely textured palate with its chocolaty tannins. $3082 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

Ross Hill Pinnacle SWEET WHITE regional tastingSeries Orange Shiraz & FORTIFIEDS2013 HHH1/2 PRODUCERS OF SERIOUSElegant fragrant bouquet 3 TASTED ALTERNATIVE VARIETALSand a warming palate 3 AWARDEDwith spicy red fruitflavours layered with A solid little groupchocolaty elements. $40 with botrytis stylesMadzi A Mudgee continuing to do well inShiraz NV HHH this region.Stylish blueberry fruitaromas and flavours Heslop Handcraftededged with spicy mocha Mudgee Lateoak intensity. $NA Harvest SauvignonCooks Lot Allotment Blanc 20148 Orange Shiraz (375ml) HHHH2013 HHH Lovely botrytis liftedDark roasty meat aromas of marmaladecharacters to the nose and dried apricot withand a spicy combo of fruit a balanced complexityand oak flavours. $35 of sweet varietal fruit flavours. $20 Bunnamagoo Estate Autumn Kids Earth Fund Mudgee Botrytis Semillon 2013 (375ml) HHH1/2 Attractive botrytis bouquet and very sweet, but not cloying, pineapple flavours balanced by high level of acidity. $24.95 Vinifera Special Renaissance Reserve Mudgee 2013 DURIF Tawny NV (375ml) HHH Our 2013 Renaissance Durif recently won Woody nose with toffee/ four trophies at the Rutherglen Wine Show. caramel notes and quite This flagship wine shows great depth of flavour hot spirit on the spicy and finesse, with characteristics of chocolate, liquorice sweet palate. $30 and spice, complemented by dark plums and prunes.Gartelmann Jesse GOLD GOLD GOLDMudgee Shiraz2013 HHH RUtherglen Estates Cellar DoorFresh berry and chocolaty Open 7 Days from 10am to 5.30pmaromas. Crisp fresh berryflavours edged with 13–35 Drummond Street, Rutherglen VIClicorice and mint. $35 02 6032 7999 [email protected] Old WWW.RUTHERGLENESTATES.COM.AUVines MudgeeShiraz 2012 HHH Proudly regional | Estate grownElegant and intense Quality | Innovation & personalityshiraz with some toastyage developing. Goodlevel of acidity. $30 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 83

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINSOUTH AFRICA and “high quality food and beverages”. Meals are complemented by a selection of fine South African wines and there is an accent on fresh, local ingredients and traditional dishes such as game meats. www.rovos.com.MAKING THE MOST OF ITS in South Africa, is home to Nederburg TASTE OF AFRICADIVERSITY Wine Estate, as well as numerous other premier brands, while The Franschhoek THE Bascule Bar at the Cape GraceTHERE are few wine producing countries Wine Valley is also famous for its food and Hotel, one of the finest hotel addressesthat offer as much diversity as South Africa; is acknowledged as the “gourmet capital in Cape Town, specialises not in wine,where the Cape is home to no fewer than 18 of South Africa”. but in whiskies. Whisky appreciation andofficial wine and two brandy routes, which tastings are all the rage in South Africaare regarded as being among the most RIDE THE RAILS and Bascule Bar offers a selection of in-scenic in the world. From the suburbs of depth, tutored whisky tastings. Bascule isCape Town to rural regions, the Cape is ROVOS Rail offers visitors to South Africa known for having one of the largest whiskyhome to many historic wine estates that the opportunity to combine visits to the collections in the southern hemisphere,have histories over 100 years or more. wine regions around Cape Town on what with nearly 500 whiskies (single maltsGroot Constantia wine estate, just a short is described as “the most luxurious train and blends) from nearly every producingdrive from downtown Cape Town, dates in the world”. The Pride of Africa features region. Whisky tastings on offer include,to 1865 and is South Africa’s oldest wine a range of journeys, including an epic 15- A Shared Experience: A tasting, includingestate. South Africa’s winelands stretch day train trip between Cape Town and Dar a selection of six whiskies, three of whichfrom Cape Overberg in the south-western es Salaam (or vice versa). Dates include will be paired with various sweet andCape, through the Little Karoo and the West July 2-16 for Cape Town to Dar es Salaam, savoury appetisers such as chocolateCoast into the adjacent province of the and July 19-August 2 for Dar es Salaam truffles, smoked salmon and blue cheese,Northern Cape. There are also smaller wine to Cape Town. The trip begins in Cape and Sommelier’s Choice. Designed forfarms in the Free State, KwaZulu-Natal and Town taking guests to the historic village the enthusiast, this is a personalised one-even Gauteng. The Route 62 wine route in of Matjiesfontein, the diamond town of on-one tasting from a collection of rarethe Cape is said to be the world’s longest. Kimberley, and the capital city of Pretoria, and older malts conducted by one of theMany Cape wine estates are characterised followed by two nights in the Madikwe experienced bar managers.by classic Cape Dutch-style buildings with Game Reserve. Guests continue throughpicturesque mountains as a backdrop. Botswana into Zimbabwe where they But there is more to Bascule than justSouth Africa is seen as a world leader overnight at the Victoria Falls Hotel. After whisky; the bar also serves some of thein wine tourism with many of the cellars crossing the Zambezi River, the train joins best wines from the Cape vineyards, asoffering additional attractions, including the Tazara line in Zambia and continues well as a delicious tapas-style menu. Capeworld-class restaurants, museums and art to Chisimba Falls for a bush walk. Next, Grace’s wine sommelier is on hand togalleries. There is also a distinct European the train climbs to the Tanzanian border guide guests through the task of orderinginfluence in a number of regions due to and descends into the Great Rift Valley from the large selection of Cape winesthe arrival of French Huguenot, Dutch and negotiating the tunnels, switchbacks and on offer. Overlooking the stunning watersGerman settlers during the 18th century. viaducts of the spectacular escarpment. of the V&A Waterfront marina which isSpier Wine Estate has one of the Cape’s Climbing again, it traverses the Selous populated by gleaming luxury yachts,oldest wine cellars, built in 1767. The estate Game Reserve - the largest reserve on Bascule is a lively destination day or night.continues to produce world-class wines the continent - before the bustling arrival www.capegrace.com.and offers the chance of tours on Segway in Dar es Salaam the following day. Theremachines. The Stellenbosch Wine Route is are dedicated staff on board for the entire SEASIDE RETREATSouth Africa’s oldest and was founded in journey, which features Victorian elegance1971. Nearby Paarl, the third-oldest town IF you are looking for a luxury getaway after exploring the Cape winelands, the Strandloper Ocean boutique hotel, just 90 minutes from Cape Town in the fishing village of Paternoster, might fit the bill.84 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

Strandloper Ocean is a secluded luxury including Stellenbosch Slow and the Root Esona Boutique Wine and overlooks theretreat that was named best 5-Star Guest 44 Market on Saturdays. On Sundays Breede River. It has a small but enticingHouse in South Africa in 2014. It offers a visit the Lourensford Harvest Market menu focusing on local products - fromfusion of beach style and contemporary at Lourensford wine estate, or the charcuterie to cheese. Esona's oldluxury set with indigenous gardens and Blaauwklippen Family Market. www. cellar has been reconstructed into athe wide, white beaches of the quaint stellenboschexperience.co.za. characterful rustic tasting venue. GuestsWest Coast fishing village. Fourteen rooms can enjoy wine and food on the verandaand suites each have their own terrace or COASTAL GETAWAY while taking in the mountain views, andcourtyard with uncluttered beach style. sample wines made from the youngGuests can enjoy hiking, beach walks, CAPE Town is home to a trendy and vines. The first releases from this family-bird watching, biking and fishing; indulge romantic new hotel - South Beach in the owned estate were from the 2010 vintage.in a relaxing massage in the Elements hip beach suburb of Camps Bay. The www.esona.co.za. Wellness Suite, or take a refreshing dip city's latest luxury boutique hideawayin the swimming pool. Paternoster is is designed for couples who can enjoy Opposite pageknown as a seafood mecca and diners superb sea views and personalised Left: Spier Estate wine shop.can sample a range of seafood, including service. There are just nine luxury Top: Bascule Bar view.black mussels and West Coast crayfish in apartment suites behind an Art Deco- Top right: Strandloper Ocean Suite View. the Strandloper Ocean Lounge restaurant. style facade, a stunning infinity pool and Bottom right: Strandloper Ocean View.www.strandloperocean.com hotel-style services. Each suite has its own balcony or patio along with king-sizeDE RIGUEUR DESTINATION beds featuring quality Egyptian cotton linens, complimentary mini bar stockedSTELLENBOSCH, South Africa’s second- with wine, bubbles and beer, under-flooroldest town and just a 40-minute drive from heating in the bathroom, an iPod dockingCape Town, is a de rigueur destination station and wifi, and even a Nespressofor any wine lover visiting South Africa. machine. Striking art works by SouthStellenbosch is renowned for its wine African artist Lionel Smit add splashesroutes, award-winning restaurants and of vibrant colour and an interesting localdramatic mountain scenery, and there element to the interiors. Camps Bay isare over 150 wine producers within 30km dotted with fashionable coffee shops,of downtown and the local university, restaurants and cocktail bars. www.which was the cradle of the Afrikaans blueviews.com/southbeach-apartments.language. For those travelling withchildren, wine producers including BEST OF REGIONAL FARESpier, Middelvlei and Lourensford alloffer (non-alcoholic) educational grape VISITORS to the Robertson wine regionjuice tastings for children while the can pop into Caryl’s Deli at Esona toadults are otherwise engaged. Families enjoy some of the region’s local producewill also enjoy the many local markets, or take away a picnic basket. Caryl’s Deli is located at The Old Cellar at May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 85

SOUTH AFRICA85 TASTED45 AWARDEDSOUTH AFRICAA very interesting tasting of alternative wines here including chenin Stellenrustblanc, a former favourite in Australia, but hardly seen now and Barrel FermentedSouth Africa’s own hero red wine, pinotage. It was great to see Stellenboscha somewhat different take on winemaking styles and no doubt Chenin Blancconsumer preferences. 2012 HHHH1/2 Nice bottle agedSPARKLING Pongracz ROSÉ characters on the nose Desiderius Western and a big, rich and8 TASTED Cape Methode 5 TASTED slightly hot palate that7 AWARDED Champenoise 1 AWARDED is silky smooth in the NV HHH mouth with a delicateConsistent quality within Some nice yeast \"Nice colours here,\" citrus flavours and hintsa diverse range of autolysis and bottle noted the judges, of vanilla oak. $30styles ranging from the aged characters; nutty but the wines werequite sweet to the dry nose and soft citrussy generally let down by Fleur du Cap Natural Leopard's Leapchampenoise wines. palate. $25 ultra-dry fruit and Light Western Cape Western Cape Grunberger green acid. Chenin Blanc Chenin BlancGraham Beck Cap Spritziger South 2015 HHH1/2 2015 HHHClassique Robertson Africa Sparkling Stellenrust Kleine Pleasant juicy fleshy A pretty wine - fine andBrut NV HHH 2015 HHH Rust Stellenbosch grapey style of wine with elegant with delicateLight honeysuckle Slightly pungent tropical/ Pinotage Rosé attractive lime-like notes, peachy characters andcomplexity on the nose melon aromas and a 2015 HHH1/2 minerally elements and acid freshness. $44.99and palate blended with simple but attractive, An attractive lolly pink very crisp acidity. $13 ZARcitrus rind notes. $29 slightly sweet palate. rosé with a slightly Beyerskloof Coastal $12 floral nose and a touch Region Chenin BlancJ.C. Le Roux Le J.C. Le Roux of spiciness on the 2015 HHHDomaine Western Western Cape flavoursome palate. A big, rounded, richCape Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc $12 chenin blanc; someNV HHH 2015 HHH pungent melon fruit andAttractive sweet floral Subtle perfumed lift CHENIN slight orange blossomfruit fragrances and to the nose and an BLANC & notes. $15simple lightweight fruity elegant palate with BLENDSpalate - easy drinking. juicy confectionery fruit Boschendal SAUVIGNON$13 flavours. $13 11 TASTED Rachelsfontein BLANC Laborie Western 7 AWARDED Coastal RegionJ.C. Le Roux La Cape Methode Chenin Blanc 5 TASTEDChanson Western Champenoise A group of clean well- 2015 HHH 4 AWARDEDCape Sparkling 2011 HHH made wines however Grassy nose withRed NV HHH Flinty fresh citrus/apple perhaps the pendulum attractive floral notes. Again, drier wines hereLovely nose - smells bouquet with crisp, has swung too far from Long and smooth in the with grassy, rather thanof raspberries and elegant and racy green the previous overripe mouth with a succulent tropical styles overall.cream. Sweet fresh fruit apple flavours. $19 alcoholic styles to now texture. $17flavours with balancing where a number of Stellenrust KWV Classicacid. $13 wines here exhibited Stellenbosch Chenin Collection Western unripe green and acid Blanc 2015 HHH Cape Sauvignon fruit. Grassy/straw-like aromas; Blanc 2014 HHH1/2 hints of honeysuckle. Melon/passionfruit Smooth mouthfilling fragrances with some palate with some age interesting bottle age showing. $16 developing. Fine silky Stellenrust Kleine smooth palate and ripe Rust Stellenbosch fruit. $14 Chenin Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2015 HHH An elegant style with melon, citrus and slightly tropical fruit lifted by spicy floral notes. $1286 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016



SOUTH AFRICA CHARDONNAY Wilderkrans Barrel & BLENDS Select Reserve Bot River Pinotage 6 TASTED 2013 HHH1/2 Fruity nose shows some 5 AWARDED leathery age and the big bright and lifted palate is Very good winemaking layered with black fruit evident here with clean and cedar oak. $39 well-made wines on offer but the judges Beyerskloof Western were looking for more Cape Pinotage generosity of fruit or 2014 HHH fruit sweetness. Floral fragrance with light fruit notes. SoftLeopard's Leap La Motte Rustenberg Leopard's Leap and simple in the mouthWestern Cape Franschoek Valley Five Soldiers Unwooded Western with fleshy fruit flavours.Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch Cape Chardonnay $162015 HHH 2015 HHH Chardonnay 2015 HHHSlightly simple style with Grassy/mineral bouquet; 2011 HHHH Buttery melon nose; Nedeburg Winespicy/grassy aromas and hints of nettles and a fine Smells of cashews, slight herbal elements. Master's Reserveflavours and a hint of well-balanced slightly melons and citrus with Simple palate; lean but Western Capetropical fruit. $15 green grippy palate. spicy elements. Quite complex with lingering Pinotage 2013 HHHNedeburg $69.99 ZAR oaky palate with biscuity/ flavours. $16 Big rich 'chewy' style withWinemaster's vanilla flavours and floral ripe blue and black fruitReserve Western OTHER WHITE fruit notes. $75 PINOTAGE & characters and an elegantCape Sauvignon BLENDS KWV Classic BLENDS mintiness. $14Blanc 2015 HHH Collection WesternSoft and slightly sweet 2 TASTED Cape Chardonnay 15 TASTED SHIRAZ &with a grassy/tropical 0 AWARDED 2015 HHH 4 AWARDED BLENDSnose and palate with a Citrus based style with adrying finish. $14 Too simple on the one floral lift to the nose and a Generally a light bodied 5 TASTED hand and too ripe on the creamy palate with some class of wines with the 3 AWARDED other. melon notes. $14 best showing weight Nedeburg and density. Nice Some nice examples, Winemaster's quaffers. more austere than ripe Reserve Western and showing steely fruit Cape Chardonnay backbones. 2015 HHH Aromas of citrus and Zonnenbloem melon with subtle oak Stellenbosch and a slightly leesy, citrus- Shiraz 2014 HHHH driven palate. $14 A fresh simple fruit-driven shiraz with an elegant Rustenberg KWV Western berry bouquet and a Stellenbosch Cape Pinotage rich fleshy palate. Still Chardonnay 2014 HHH1/2 has plenty of cellaring 2014 HHH Smells a little like potential left. $21 Creamy nose, smells of Sarsaparilla and has melons and tropical fruit. lovely length of flavour Warm, flavoursome ripe with focus more on the melon palate. $30 varietal fruit than the oak. $15JUDGES Richard Rowe Brian Fletcher Chief winemaker KWV Winemaker at large. David Johnson wines, South Africa. Currently with a project Chief winemaker, Formerly general in Italy (Sicily, Puglia). Credaros wines. manager for Kirribilly Previously at Petauluma Judged at Small Wines. Previously with and St Huberts. Has winemakersshow, royal Leasingham Wines for judged at at Mundus Perth, Margaret River, eight years. Judged for Vini, Perth, and Victorian Blackwood Valley and five years at the Griffith wine shows. Was Chief Mount Barker Shows. wine show, and has been winemaker with Evans Previously winemaker a judge at the Rutherglen & Tate and with Anglo/ at Naturaliste and wine show. Italian venture. Juniper Estate wineries.88 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

regional tastingRustenburg R Plaisir De Merle OTHER RED SWEET WINESM Nicholson Paqrl Cabernet BLENDS & & FORTIFIEDSStellenbosch Shiraz Sauvignon VARIETALS2014 HHH1/2 2011 HHH 5 TASTEDDense purple/red wine Minty spicy fragrances 6 TASTED 2 AWARDEDbrimming over with and good line ofattractive varietal fruit, blackcurrant fruit with 5 AWARDED A couple of nice drinkinghas some spiciness and cigar box oak and fine sweet wines on offer.drying tannins. $28 tannins. $28 This shows that blends can work really well Rustenberg StrawKWV Classic CABERNET with different varieties Wine Coastal RegionCollection Western BLENDS complementing each Sweet WhiteCape Shiraz other. 2011 HHHH2014 HHH 4 TASTED Lovely botrytis complexityA light-bodied, softly 1 AWARDED KWV The Mentors Leopard's Leap obvious on the nose withtextured wine with Western Cape Petit Culinaria Collection very soft sweet, but notlolly-like berry fruit, some One good example Verdot 2013 HHHH Grand Vin Western cloying, citrus flavours.herbal notes and a grippy showing attractive berry Big, rich and chocolaty Cape Red Blend Plenty of zesty acidity toend. $14 fruits and soft chewy with good intensity and 2013 HHH balance. $30 tannins. concentration of fresh A pretty wine with spicyCABERNET varietal fruit sitting succulent mulberry-like StellenrustSAUVIGNON KWV The Mentors underneath powerful fruit, nice complexity Chenin d' Muscat Orchestra Coastal vanilla oak. Spicy and elegant tannins. Stellenbosch Noble7 TASTED Region Cabernet finish. $25 $99.99 ZAR 2013 (375ml) HHH4 AWARDED Blend 2012 HHH1/2 Graham Beck Alto Rouge Naturally sweet white Mulberry bouquet Railway Red Stellenbosch Red with tropical/citrus fruitA solid group with nice with slight marzipan Robertson Red Blend 2012 HHH and very subtle botrytisvarietal fruit characters characters. Sweet fruit Blend 2013 HHH Smells like juicy black characters. $28tending to firm and flavours and chewy Spicy herbal elements jubey fruit. Silky smoothaustere styles. tannins on a medium to the nose and well- in the mouth. Has weight palate. $25 balanced red/black fruit complexity and balance.Nederburg palate with cedar oak and $19Winemaster's MERLOT & crisp acid. $19Reserve Western BLENDS Roodeburg WesternCape Cabernet Cape Red BlendSauvignon 6 TASTED 2013 HHH2013 HHHH 2 AWARDED Smoky black fruit aromasBig, rich, chewy style with hints of black oliveswith good concentration Always a difficult stand- and slight greenish noteof dark fleshy fruits. It alone variety. The best to the black fruit palate.has floral fragrances and wines here had a touch $20slightly minerally notes of cabernet to lift theto the palate. $14 fruit. STAR RATINGS Rustenberg Peter Audacia Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofBarlow Stellenbosch Rooibos Wooded excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch Merlot All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry2008 HHH1/2 2014 HHH professionals and are compared in peerDark and austere with Fragrant blue and classes by three judges.dusty cigar box/black black fruit bouquet and CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,fruit aromas and a soft, confectionery sweet, a major mail-order business.complex chocolaty mature, black fruit CD Cellar door price.palate. Good for an palate. $29 CDO Cellar door only.8-year old! $75 SO Sold out. Rustenberg John $N/A Price not available at time of printing.Zonnenbloem X Merriman  Contact information pg 136.Stellenbosch Stellenbosch MerlotCabernet Sauvignon Blend 2013 HHH RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).2013 HHH Lovely persistence of BEST VALUE for $20 & under.Spicy mulberry aromas soft sweet black fruitand medium-bodied characters layered For a complete list of what we tastedfruity palate with with cedary oak. Slight please refer to www.winestate.com.ausmooth texture and soft greenish finish. $40tannins. $21 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 89

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINADELAIDE HILLSTASTINGS WITH A TWIST A COMPLETE TASTING by Kym Milne MW and costs $250 per EXPERIENCE person. Reservations are essential, phoneARTWINE is the perfect Adelaide Hills (08) 8389 9488. Bird In hand is at Bird-In-destination for anyone looking to wind THE Bird In Hand cellar door offers much Hand and Pfeiffer roads, Woodside. www.down and take in some art, wine and food. more than just wine tastings. Visitors birdinhand.com.au.Owners Judy and Glen Kelly like to do are invited to get up close with the winethings a little differently and have a number making process by wandering through OAK BANK EXPANSIONof wines made from alternative varieties the original barrel hall, relaxing in thefor visitors to try, including fiano, viognier, courtyard overlooking the vines, or simply O’LEARY Walker, who make wine usinggraciano, tempranillo, gruner veltliner and enjoying a glass in front of a roaring fire both Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills fruit,montepulciano, alongside more traditional in winter. There is an on-site art gallery have recently bought the old Oakbankvarieties. They have vineyards in both and The Gallery restaurant, where chef brewery to add an Adelaide Hills tastingthe Adelaide Hills and Clare Valley. “Our Paul Gillespie crafts menus to accompany facility to their impressive building in thepassion is to continue to produce new the estate wines. Visitors are given the Clare. Last July David O'Leary and Nickand exciting wines that offer wine lovers opportunity to taste the latest release Walker purchased the former Johnstonan Australian version of some outstanding whites and back vintage reds along Family Brewery and cordial factorymodern European varieties that show with the estate olive oil - and the tasting beside the Oakbank Racecourse on theelegance and the ability to be enjoyed menu features red wines that have been Onkaparinga River. The heritage-listed sitewith food or without,” the Kellys say. The carefully cellared in the Bird in Hand wine includes the former stables house, whichhigh-gabled architecturally-designed museum for several years and are not serves as the new cellar door and featurespavilion combines a comfortable tasting available elsewhere. exposed beams. For David O'Leary thereroom with an art gallery featuring works is a strong connection to the site. Both hisby local South Australian artists. Platters On-site restaurant The Gallery is a grandfather and father were involved inhighlighting gourmet local produce are culmination of the Nugent family’s passion the former Johnston businesses and healso on offer. ArtWine is at 72 Bird in Hand for wine, food, art and design. The grew up in Oakbank. Visitors are invitedRd, Woodside and is open 11am-5pm signature share-style dining experience to explore the old buildings or settle in forseven days a week for tastings, sales and is elegant yet relaxed and menu options lunch with one of the cellar door platters.platters. Phone (08) 8389 9399 or www. are created to favour local produce and The grazing plate ($30) features mettwurstartwine.com.au. the changing seasons. The Gallery is a and leg ham, two cheeses, olives, pickled live art showcase of pieces curated and onions, dill gherkins, green tomato pickle commissioned especially for the space. and Lavosh crackers, while there is also Works come from world famous artists a gourmet cheese platter for $22. The together with local pieces. Guests are invited to enjoy lunch (Friday-Sunday) and dinner on Fridays by appointment only, but the cellar door is open seven days a week from 10am-5pm for tutored tastings. The Signature Flight menu ($69) features seasonal dishes designed for sharing in a relaxed atmosphere and can include dishes like pan-fried prawns and green papaya salad, fricassee of chicken and mushroom, lamb panzanella, beef fillet with broccolini and hollandiase sauce, and pavlova with cream and local berries, although it changes seasonally. The Joy Flight ($130) is a grander lunch experience that needs a booking a minimum of seven days in advance, while the five-course dinner menu is paired with wines selected90 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

travelbriefsO'Leary Walker Oakbank cellar door is king-size bedrooms, ornate fireplaces investment by owners Lion Australia.open seven days from 11am-4pm and is and traditional high ceilings, while the The new facility was a boost for theat 18 Oakwood Rd; phone (08) 8388 4263. Coachman’s Cottage has four king-sized region, said Petaluma chief winemaker bedrooms and a separate studio. Pinot Andrew Hardy. “It’s great for everyoneOUT OF THE WAY Cottage, with two king bedrooms, plump that a big business has invested in the bed furnishings and garden-view windows Adelaide Hills,” he said. The new cellarTHE newest cellar door in the Adelaide Hills is the smallest of the cottages. All cottages door adds to the central Hills district’sis also one of the most remote - just over the include a fully equipped kitchen, inclusive wine tourism, which includes nearbyhill from McLaren Vale, on a beautiful road of washer/dryer, LCD TVs and split system Bird in Hand, ArtWine, Shaw+Smith andwinding past Kuitpo Forest. Top Note vineyard airconditioning, CD player, iPod docking Nepenthe in Balhannah, and a swag ofsits at 330m elevation and its altitude and stations, DVD player, selection of DVDs and small producers around Lenswood andexposure to cool south-easterlies makes it board games and a barbecue with cooking Hahndorf “It’s become a really livelyconsiderably colder than many of its near utensils. Mount Lofty Cottages are at 74 Mt hub,” Hardy said. “It’s a lovely valley withneighbours. Open only at weekends, the Lofty Summit Rd, Crafers; phone (08) 8339 lots happening all the time.” tasting facility features pinot noir, chardonnay, 6777. www.mtloftycottages.com.au.shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and rare rosésemillons. Opened in January, the Top Notecellar door is located in a cottage at 558Peters Creek Rd in Kuitpo, opposite theKuitpo Forest car park. Parking is available inthe forest car park or in the loading bay justsouth of the cottage. Top Note is the brainchildof Cate and Nick Foskett, who previously hadcareers in opera and IT. The cellar door is open from 11am-4pmon weekends and most public holidays. Itis closed in June and July. www.topnote.com.au.BASE FOR EXPLORATION NEW HOME FOR PIONEERING Top: O'Leary Walker Wines interior. WINERY Middle: Petaluma new cellar door interior.IF you like a little bit of style when it comes Bottom: Mount Lofty House.to accommodation then you’ll be interested PETALUMA, which dates to 1976, wasin the Mount Lofty Cottages - four cottages one of the pioneering wineries in the Opposite page:that are part of the original Mount Lofty Adelaide Hills and now has a new home. Top Left: ArtWine cellar door.Estate and have access to all the services The new Petaluma cellar door opened Top Right: Bird in Hand MAC lunch.and facilities at Mount Lofty House, a late last year at 254 Pfeiffer Rd, Woodside Bottom: ArtWine cheese platter.luxurious hotel that is part of the Accor M and is open Friday to Monday 10am-Gallery group. The cottages can cater for 4pm. www.petaluma.com.au. The newbetween four and 10 people and are ideal facility offers tastings of Petaluma andfor anyone wanting privacy and luxury, and Croser wines, including limited releases,are an ideal base for exploring the Adelaide museum back vintages and cellar doorHills. Located adjacent to Mount Lofty exclusives - and there are spectacularHouse, the cottages offer a perfect blend views of the Adelaide Hills and Mountof country comforts and modern luxuries, Lofty from the deck.and all have been recently renovated.The largest is Piccadilly Cottage, which The move happened after protractedhas five bedrooms and is self-contained discussions and a multi-million dollarand nestled among tranquil gardens.The Gatekeeper’s Cottage has three May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 91

ADELAIDE HILLS166 TASTED122 AWARDEDADELAIDE HILLSThere is gold in “them thar hills” as evidenced by the high strike K1 by Geoff Hardy Sidewood Estaterate or awards in this judging. This region is coming into its own Vintage Sparkling Adelaide Hills Pinotboth as one to watch for wine selection as well as a tourist Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2014 HHHH1/2destination in its own right. The heroes in this tasting were the Noir Chardonnay Developed complexsparkling wines and chardonnays - pinot has promise but needs 2010 HHH1/2 honeyed aromas withmore work, said the judges. The region also offers some of A big toasty style of smoky notes. Verythe best vibrant mid-weight shiraz wines around that offer an sparkling with a crème attractive palate, richalternative to the Aussie blockbusters. brulee of a nose and and warm and exhibits delicious developed toasty/ flavours of pears andSPARKLING Wolf Blass Gold biscuity flavours. $65 apples with toasty and Label Sparkling straw-like notes. $2013 TASTED Chardonnay Pinot Paracombe 2013 Noir 2012 HHHH Release Sparkling Paracombe Pinot11 AWARDED Developed toasty Pinot Noir Gris 2015 HHHH caramelised complexity Chardonnay True to the gris style withThe judges commented on the nose and great NV HHH its rich and inviting jubeythat Adelaide Hills balance between the fruit Developed buttery/ fruit aromas and veryare getting a name and the aged complexity honeyed bouquet and a good flavour intensityfor producing good on the palate. $24.99 lean high acid palate. It showing just a hint ofsparkling wines and Sidewood Estate needs food! $35 sweetness. $20these show why, with Adelaide Hills Bird in Handtheir lovely clean fruit Sparkling Pinot Nepenthe Prestige Adelaide Hills Pinotand good wine making. Noir Chardonnay Cuvee Chardonnay Gris 2015 HHHH NV HHH1/2 Pinot Noir NV HHH Fresh well-made wine; aBird in Hand Nest Artwine Coco Lifted fruity aromas and a Nice balance here hint of aged complexity.Egg Joy Adelaide Sparkling Single bright palate that is well between primary and Spicy gooseberry/pearHills Sparkling Pinot Vineyard Adelaide balanced with a good secondary characters on aromas. Some residualNoir 2010 HHHHH Hills Pinot Noir level of complexity and a both nose and palate. $40 sugar on the palate butThis nose has both NV HHHH1/2 hint of sweetness. $25 balancing acidity. $25elegance and complexity A toasty yeasty Tomich Woodside Bird in Hand D &mingling with fresh fruit complexity to the nose Blanc De Blanc B Pour Les Amourfragrances. The palate with a rich lemony fruit Chardonnay Adelaide Hillsis creamy and complex palate showing lots of NV HHH1/2 Sparkling Pinot Noirwith a good textural complexity and a good A pretty strawberry-like 2015 HHHedge and just a touch of balance of sweetness nose and interesting An elegant wine withsweetness. $75 with the acidity. Lovely multi-faceted palate with delicate florals and freshAnderson Hill toasty finish. $28 creamy mouthfeel. Good strawberry fruit backedVintage Sparkling food wine. $25 by aged complexity. $40Chardonnay Anderson Hill2009 HHHH1/2 Lenswood PINOT GRIS/Interesting complexity Celebrating 40 GRIGIOof aromas with hints of Years Sparklingcracked wheat and oyster Chardonnay 12 TASTEDshells. Very good balance 2014 HHH1/2 10 AWARDEDto the palate with a lovely Attractive toasty yeastycreamy texture. Good aromas and flavoursome Surprisingly good resultsacid/sugar balance. $40 toasty palate with honeyed for this difficult variety. sweet accents and a Whilst the naming is long drying finish. $25 still confusing the wines generally showed good balanced flavour profiles. Great to see the drier rather than the sweeter styles where fruit is replaced with sugar.92 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

Wicks Estate regional tasting Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2015 HHH THE LAND Interesting lychee THE WINE richness to the nose OUR STORY and simple flavours underscored by the acidity. $18 Nepenthe Altitude Pinot Grigio 2015 HHH A well-made wine with a delicate floral bouquet and a pleasant drying palate. $19.99Hahndorf Hill Winery SAUVIGNONPinot Grigio BLANC &2015 HHHH BLENDSGood lifted varietalintensity to the nose and 23 TASTEDbright fresh varietally truepalate. Good example of 17 AWARDEDthe grigio style. $25Penfolds Cellar No real stand-outs butReserve Pinot Gris lots of good quaffers.2014 HHHH \"Some showed smokeCrisp apple-like aromas taint as a result of fireswith hints of limes and that affected part of thean attractive dry zesty Hills region in 2015,\"palate that has flavour said one judge. Thereintensity and a firm acid were green/tinned peabackbone. $35 styles and ripe tropicalRichard Hamilton ones; the best were aThe Hills Adelaide combination of both.Hills Pinot Gris2015 HHH1/2 Penfolds CellarZesty nose - smells of Reserve Sauvignonfresh green apples with Blanc 2014 HHHHa simple well-balanced A different and interestingpalate that has nice acid/ version of the variety withsugar balance. $21 smoky barrel fermentTomich Woodside notes to the nose and aVineyard Pinot lean tight palate with fruitGrigio 2015 HHH1/2 richness. $35Subdued apple andpear aromas. Simple Tomich Wing VBBAEULSYUTSEand clean in the mouth. and a PrayerGood balance between Sauvignon At Hemera Estate our passion is for producingsweetness and acidity. $25 Blanc 2015 HHH1/2 award winning wines that speak of our land here inTomich Rhyme and Grassy herbal bouquet the Barossa Valley. We pride ourselves on winesReason Pinot Grigio and some 'zing' to the such as our 2010 JDR Shiraz, winner of the Best2015 HHH fresh clean flavours with Barossa Shiraz Trophy at the 2015 InternationalDelicate nose with simple a balance between the Wine Challenge in London. Try us for yourself.'grapey' aromas and a sweetness and acidity.well-balanced varietal $18 www.hemeraestate.com.aupalate. $18 Wicks Estate Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2015 HHH1/2 Fresh well-made, super grassy style of sauvignon blanc with a touch of sweetness nicely balanced by the acidity. $18 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 93

ADELAIDE HILLSAtkins Family VBBAEULSYUTSE Nepenthe Altitude K1 by Geoff Hardy CHARDONNAY Sidewood EstateVineyards Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills Adelaide HillsSauvignon 2015 HHH Sauvignon Blanc 28 TASTED ChardonnayBlanc 2015 HHH Delicate citrus nose 2015 HHH 21 AWARDED 2014 HHHH1/2Slight nuttiness to the with subtle varietal Attractive grassy Stonefruit aromas withbright tropical fruit nose. flavours on a refreshing, spectrum of aromas with A very strong class smoky oak nuances.Warm and rounded in the well-balanced palate. muted pea-straw-like confirming the Hills Good palate weightmouth with grassy notes. $19.99 flavours. $22 are one of the great and structure and very$17.99 Anvers Wines Bird in Hand chardonnay regions. attractive fresh peach and Razorback Road Adelaide Hills \"Lots of interesting pear flavours with goodFox Gordon VBBAEULSYUTSE Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc styles and good integration of toasty oak.Sassy Sauvignon Blanc 2015 HHH winemaking,\" noted $20Sauvignon 2015 HHH Delicate nose - true to one judge. \"Let oak be Wolf Blass GoldBlanc 2015 HHH Pleasant tropical/citrus style with simple mineral part of the spectrum to Label Adelaide HillsSweet aromas with a lift to the nose and good palate and good level of deliver more complexity; Chardonnaycitrus edge and fresh, spectrum of varietal acidity. $25 don't throw the baby out 2014 HHHH1/2well-balanced, sweet/ flavours. $20 Jericho Wines Fumé with the bath water.\" Lovely aromas of toastysour flavour profile. d'Arenberg The Blanc 2015 HHH oak, bacon and freshly$18.95 Broken Fishplate A clean well-made style Penfolds baked bread. Excellent Sauvignon Blanc with muted aromas and Reserve Bin 14 A palate weight and length 2015 HHH just a hint of oak on the Chardonnay with delicious varietal A leaner style; cut palate. $25 2014 HHHHH flavours nicely balanced grass and tinned pea Tomich Woodside A well-made wine with by the oak. $28 characters with a herbal Vineyard Sauvignon lovely peachy aromas McGuigan edge. $20 Blanc 2015 HHH seamlessly integrated The Shortlist Sidewood Estate The nose is a mélange with toasty oak showing Chardonnay Adelaide Hills of nettle, herbs and a hint of bacon. Lean 2014 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc passionfruit with a simple tight palate with good Big toasty oak-driven 2015 HHH upfront fruit palate. $25 level of citrus/melon style - but very well done A pungency of tropical Nepenthe Pinnacle flavours. Good acid with great honeyed notes aromas and plenty of Petraea Sauvignon backbone. $100 to the nose and a lovely varietal flavour length and Blanc 2015 HHH palate structure with weight. $20 Aromas of passionfruit Bird in Hand Nest rich fruit and toasty oak Paracombe and asparagus with good Egg Adelaide Hills flavours. $28.99 Sauvignon Blanc flavour intensity on the Chardonnay Vella Wines Harvest 2015 HHH well-balanced palate. $36 2012 HHHHH Widow Adelaide Tropical nose with a A lovely toasty oak Hills ChardonnayMolly's Cradle VBBAEULSYUTSE hint of roses and a bouquet with underlying 2013 HHHH1/2Wines Estate balance and richness of pear and peach fruit A rich toasty oldAdelaide Hills green apple and citrus aromas. A very complex fashioned style ofSauvignon Blanc flavours. $21 buttery and toasty oak chardonnay. Appealing2015 HHH Richard Hamilton palate showing plenty shortbread and bacon-like Adelaide Hills of ripe varietal fruit bouquet with lovely rich Sauvignon Blanc interest. $79 ripe flavour profile of 2015 HHH varietal fruit and oak. $30Lifted varietal aromas Pungent nose with greenwith slight mineral apple notes and superedge and fresh, simple green palate. Almostflavours; high level of New Zealand-like. $21acid. $19JUDGES Geoff Thompson Greg Clack Duane Coates Winemaker Lodestar Executive winemaker for Winemaker for Cleggett’s, wines. Formerly Chain of Ponds wines. Coates & Raydon Estate Senior winemaker at Has completed the AWRI Wines. Duane has a McPherson wines, (AWEC) intensive wine Masters of Oenology Nagambie and prior judging course. Previously from Adelaide University General Manager winemaker at Haselgrove and has gained overseas Fuse Wine Services. wines and Koppamurra winemaking experience Assistant judge wines. in Burgundy, the Northern Rutherglen wine show. Rhone Valley regions in France, and the Douro Valley in Portugal.94 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

regional tastingTomich Woodside Tomich WoodsideVineyard Q96 VineyardChardonnay Chardonnay2013 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHHUpfront forward style Smoky oak bouquetthat is loaded with with honeyed nuances.melon, peach and fig-like Excellent palate balance,characters showing good structure, nicea lovely honeyed creaminess and good fruitdevelopment balanced by flavour length. $25good level of acidity. $60 Penfolds CellarJacob's Creek Reserve ChardonnayReserve Adelaide 2014 HHHHHills Chardonnay Lemony peachy2015 HHHH elements to the noseSmoky bacon-like with toasty touches.characters on the nose Elegant palate with goodand good powerful fruit fruit, chalky acidity anddrive on the long crisp powdery tannins. $55and complex palate Wicks Estatewith a nice oaky finish. Adelaide Hills$17.99 ChardonnayBird in Hand 2015 HHHAdelaide Hills Lean, green styleChardonnay of chardonnay with2015 HHHH wild ferment/peachCreamy buttery nose with fragrances and freshan intense oaky bouquet flavours. $18and rich oak-driven palate Bird in Hand Two inwith an excellent flavour the Bush Adelaideprofile and length. $35 Hills ChardonnayBird in Hand Nest 2015 HHHEgg Adelaide Hills Subdued aromas; hint ofChardonnay smokiness and a lovely2015 HHHH creamy palate with goodVery good complexity fruit richness. $20of pear, peach, bacon Howard Vineyardand biscuit-like aromas Amos Adelaide Hillswhich are echoed on the Chardonnaybold and nicely textured 2015 HHHpalate. $79 Simple slightly muted nose and a zesty fresh tropical fruit palate with subtle sweetness. $40 May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 95

ADELAIDE HILLSFox Gordon OTHER WHITE Nepenthe Bird in Hand OTHER REDThe Empress VARIETALS & Winemaker's Adelaide Hills VARIETALS &Chardonnay BLENDS Selection Gruner Arneis 2015 HHH BLENDS2014 HHH Veltliner Delicate exotic spicyA big rich and attractive 18 TASTED 2015 HHH1/2 bouquet and a long 7 TASTEDold fashioned ripe peach/ 12 AWARDED Peppery notes to the well-balanced palate 6 AWARDEDmelon style. Nice use of elegant peach/pear with apricot flavour Interesting group of niceoak. $22.95 A mixed group of wines bouquet. Lean firm acid richness. $28 red varietals showingWolf Blass White showing good spicy and palate but good richness good winemaking skills.Label Piccadilly exotic characters. Not of fruit. $20 ROSÉ \"Well done,\" commentedValley Chardonnay quite up to the 2014 Jericho Wines Fiano the judges.2014 HHH vintage but there are 2015 HHH1/2 8 TASTED Bird in HandPeaches and pears on still many nice drinks to Perfumed floral notes to 4 AWARDED Adelaide Hillsthe nose and an elegant choose from. the exotic nose with good Montepulcianopalate with subtle use of varietal fruit richness on a Some good examples 2014 HHHH1/2oak. $34 Penfolds Cellar long lean palate. $25 and a few less so! A nose of prunes, ripeChain of Ponds Reserve Semillon Hahndorf Hill The high scorers were plums and black cherriesCorkscrew Rd. 2012 HHHH1/2 Winery GRU Gruner refined, elegant wines with a whiff of earthiness.Adelaide Hills Elegant aromas - lean Veltliner with minimal sweetness The rich palate hasChardonnay and green with just a 2015 HHH1/2 to add texture. intense savoury flavours,2014 HHH slight toasty/honeyed Delightfully lifted zippy acidity and goodDelicate melon fruit touch. Good balance of fragrances of Turkish Bird in Hand D & tannin backbone. $35characters with just a citrus fruit flavours and Delight with a rich B Pour Les Amourwhiff of oak and good honeyed sweetness. fruit palate showing a Adelaide Hills Pinot Paracombeacid structure. $38 Developing nicely; seamless balance of Noir Rosé Cabernet FrancTomich Woodside plenty of potential. $35 sugar and acid. $28 2015 HHHHH 2010 HHHH1/2Vineyard Q96 Bird in Hand Two in A very pretty salmon Spicy leathery aromasChardonnay Quarisa Wines the Bush Adelaide pink wine that's elegant with a cola-like lift and2014 HHH Johnny Q Semillon Hills Semillon and refined with delicate some liqueur cherries. AClean fresh style with Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc strawberry/rose petal very varietal palate thatfresh ripe nectarine fruit 2015 HHHH 2015 HHH aromas and a tight lean is rich, soft and complexmingling seamlessly with Attractive tropical and A bright and generous palate, some delicate fruit with good oak supportthe toasty oak. $60 citrus fragrances with blend of tropical fruit and great residual sugar/ and crunchy acidity. $27Ngeringa Single hints of nettles. Zesty characters, cut grass and acid balance. $30 Fox Gordon TheVineyard Adelaide fresh palate seamlessly good level of residual Dark Prince NeroHills Chardonnay balanced with good sugar. $20 Chain of Ponds D'Avola 2014 HHHH2013 HHH flavour interest and tight Semprevino Innocence Dry Interesting savouryTouches of apples and acid backbone. $11.99 Adelaide Adelaide Hills Pinot nose showing cola-likepears on the nose and Hills Riesling Noir Rosé development. Simple,restrained fruit flavours Nepenthe Gewurztraminer 2015 HHH1/2 slightly sweet cherry/with deft use of oak. $40 Winemaker's 2015 HHH Subtle aromas with a berry flavours balancedAnderson Hill Selection Arneis A refreshing style with hint of smoke and a by crunchy acidity. $24.95Elizabeth Scott 2015 HHHH tropical intensity and lean elegant palate withChardonnay Bright lychee and peach showing a spicy floral creamy texture and2012 HHH bouquet with some edge. $22 focused fruit flavours.A big ripe oak-driven grassy notes. Nice Handcrafted $20wine that's not for varietal notes to the clean by Geoff Hardythe faint hearted! An zesty palate. A good food Adelaide Hills Fiano Bird in Handinteresting style. $28 wine. $20 2015 HHH Adelaide Hills Pinot A savoury wine but it has Noir Rosé 2015 HHH Nepenthe subtle sweetness and a Nice friendly style with Winemaker's good acid spine. $25 intense jubey fruit nose Selection Viognier Tomich Woodside - some savouriness. 2015 HHH1/2 Vineyard Riesling \"Tastes of cherries and A classic apricot/lychee 2015 HHH strawberries.\" $20 nose and very long and Flinty fragrances and rich palate showing a tight, clean and lean Paracombe Red good varietal fruit palate with upfront Ruby Rosé flavours. $20 varietal fruit flavours. $25 2015 HHH Pretty floral nose with a strawberry lift and rich candied cherry/strawberry jam-like flavours. $2196 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

regional tasting Nepenthe Altitude Artwine The Adelaide Hills Pinot Doghouse Single Noir 2014 HHH Vineyard Merlot Cherry cola nose with 2013 HHH sweet rhubarb fruit on Complex developed spicy a soft approachable leathery nose and nice palate. $19.99 berry/plum flavours on Nepenthe Pinnacle the tannic palate. $30 The Good Doctor Adelaide Hills Pinot CABERNET Noir 2014 HHH SAUVIGNON & Delicate fruit fragrances BLENDS and a chalky tannin palate showing nice 9 TASTED level of fruit. Good food 7 AWARDED wine. $36Paracombe Malbec Tomich Woodside MERLOT & The judges agreed Paracombe The2013 HHHH Vineyard I777 BLENDS that these wines really Reuben CabernetInky crimson wine Adelaide Hills Pinot delivered; some premium Sauvignon Cabernetsmelling of brambles. Noir 2014 HHHHH 4 TASTED examples that are well Franc MerlotDark and chocolaty in Big complex nose; lots 4 AWARDED worth chasing up. Malbec Shirazthe mouth with loads of of black cherry fruit with 2012 HHHH1/2tannins and good acid nice hit of oak. Ripe A small solid group Bird in Hand Inky red blend with lovelybalance. Give it another balanced berry fruit from what one judge Adelaide Hills earthy/chocolaty black5 years! $27 palate showing very good suggested is a \"much Cabernet Sauvignon fruit aromas. Classic length with mid-palate maligned variety\". 2014 HHHH1/2 cabernet palate with itsJericho Wines sweetness, lovely oak Minty, leafy black fruit subtle blackberry fruitTempranillo and herbal notes. $60 Bird in Hand bouquet. Lovely palate and delicate herbal notes.2015 HHH1/2 K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills weight with briary fruit Good oak in support. $23Jammy, red fruit aromas Adelaide Hills Pinot Merlot 2013 HHHH flavours, ironstone-like Wolf Blass Whitewith a savoury smoky Noir 2014 HHHH A pleasant spicy mix elements, plush/svelte Label Adelaide Hillsbacon edge. Simple Toasty oak aromas of plum, mocha and tannins and powerful Cabernet Sauvignonpalate has fresh lively blend with rhubarb-like cola aromas with fresh eucalypt characters. $35 2012 HHHH1/2young flavours. $25 fruit. Complex palate complex flavours A very tannic and elegant with nice sweetness of underscored by nice drying Bird in Hand Nest cabernet with a classicNepenthe Altitude varietal fruit balanced by tannin structure. $35 Egg Adelaide Hills cassis/blueberry fruitTempranillo strong acid. $35 Cabernet Sauvignon aroma profile. Great2014 HHH1/2 Tomich Woodside Bird in Hand Nest 2013 HHHH1/2 palate richness with niceSavoury chocolate Vineyard Adelaide Egg Adelaide Hills The upfront vanilla oak length of spicy sweetnose has a menthol Hills Pinot Noir Merlot 2013 HHHH aromas have super rich varietal fruit flavours. $45thread. Good tannic 2014 HHH1/2 An elegant seamlessly powerful dark fruits Chain of Ponds Thegrip to the elegant Not typically varietal but balanced wine with plum underneath. Lots of Amadeus Adelaidepalate with oak kept in has attractive upfront and prune-like varietal lovely oak on the palate Hills Cabernetbalance. $19.99 berry fruit, some rhubarb fruit layered with dark with plenty of ripe minty/ Sauvignon notes and good use of earthy characters. Good berry fruit flavours to 2013 HHHHPINOT NOIR oak to balance. $30 oak use. $99 match. $99 Lovely richness of varietal Tomich Woodside fruit characters layered15 TASTED Vineyard I777 Bird in Hand Two in Bird in Hand Marie with strong velvety6 AWARDED Adelaide Hills Pinot the Bush Adelaide Elizabeth Adelaide tannins, hints of cigar- Noir 2013 HHH1/2 Hills Merlot Hills Cabernet like oak and nice earthy\"Where is the primary Interesting wine - Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon touches. $38fruit and hint of good savoury /rhubarb 2014 HHH1/2 2013 HHHH1/2 Wicks Estatechariness?\" asked the fragrances. Long, Lovely bright crimson Earthy cola nose with Adelaide Hillsjudges. \"Some one year balanced and weighty wine with plenty of subtle oak support. More Cabernet Sauvignonold wines were already palate with velvety intense ripe and juicy of the earthiness on the 2013 HHH1/2looking tired.\" The mouthfeel. $60 mulberry/blackberry fruit oak dominant palate and Slight leatheriness to thebetter wines showed nicely integrated with the soft dark fruit underneath, subtle spicy blackberryvarietal depth and were oak. $20 good level of sweetness fragrances. Firm,travelling between and crunchy acid. $350 developed palate richhaving enough fruit with spicy fruit. Good acidwhile avoiding becoming structure. $20just dry reds. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 97

ADELAIDE HILLSSHIRAZ & Paracombe K1 by Geoff Hardy Hahndorf Hill Winery Anderson Hill TheBLENDS Somerville Shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Black Cat Shiraz 2010 HHHHH 2014 HHHH1/2 A firm and quite tannic 2013 HHH25 TASTED Gorgeous nose - Dark berry nose with a lift shiraz that has some Savoury dark berry20 AWARDED reminiscent of black of spice and pepper and lovely dark savoury aromas and nice upfront forest cake! Lovely ripe a well-structured palate fruit characters nicely berry fruit flavours withA sensational class of rich palate, excellent showing excellent length balanced by the vanilla herbal notes. $30wines with the judges weight, full of flavour and and balance and full of oak. $35rating some as \"heroic\". developing nicely and all ripe raspberry and dark Ngeringa J . E EstateBut for some there wrapped up in the spicy cherry flavours. $40 Tomich Woodside Grown Adelaidewas an over worked peppery oak. $69 K1 by Geoff Vineyard Icon Shiraz Hills Syrahexcess of savouriness Anvers Wines Hardy Tzimmukin 2014 HHH1/2 2012 HHHwhich made the wines Razorback Road Adelaide Hills Shiraz Very structured savoury A pretty Rhone-like stylecomplex but some Adelaide Hills Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon style with loads of with a confectionery fruitmight have been better 2014 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 tannins. Gamey/soy-like nose and reasonably longwith primary fruit Soft ripe seductive wine Developed aromas aromas and good length tannic palate. $25preservation instead. with a bright berry fruit with secondary oak of varietal flavours. $60 bouquet and lovely notes; smells a little like Chain of Ponds The SWEETWolf Blass Gold toasty oak support. Very soy or hoi sin sauce. Ledge Adelaide Hills WHITESLabel Adelaide Hills approachable briary palate Powerful earthy/leathery Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2Syrah 2013 HHHHH showing well-handled oak complexity to the palate Nice leathery complexity 4 TASTEDDescribed by one judge and lively acidity. $20 with good level of acid to to the spicy/toasty oak 4 AWARDEDas a, \"Rich, cuddly style\"! K1 by Geoff Hardy balance. $150 nose. Rich palate withHas intense aromas of Middle Hill Adelaide Wicks Estate upfront fruit and well- Some lovely sweetspicy dark fruit with a Hills Shiraz 2014 Adelaide Hills Shiraz integrated oak. $38 examples to be hadlong rich palate that has HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH Paracombe Shiraz here.velvety tannins, good Deep purple hues, rich Nose of dark fruit with Viognierlevel of oak and balancing ripe berry fruit and spicy a touch of menthol and 2012 HHH1/2 K1 by Geoff Hardyacid. $28 smoky aromas and a long some savouriness. Rich Intense briary fruit nose Autumn Harvest complex black fruit-driven solid juicy fruit palate and a lovely richness Adelaide HillsK1 by Geoff Hardy palate with soft tannins with a very good tannin of evolved licorice-like Riesling 2015Adelaide Hills Shiraz and an intensity of toasty/ structure. $20 flavours well supported HHHH1/22013 HHHHH mocha oak. $25 Ngeringa Single by the tannins. $23 A sweet lychee bouquetA plush and very Sidewood Estate Vineyard Adelaide Hahndorf Hill Winery with a lovely perfumed\"friendly\" style of shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz Hills Syrah Compatriots Shiraz lift. The palate is simplethat exhibits super 2014 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon and straightforward butexcellent spicy black Dark berry aromas lift off Gamey savoury aromas Merlot 2014 HHH has excellent flavourfruit varietal intensity the nose and are subtly with ironstone-like Pleasant dark ripe fruit intensity and very goodthat is seamlessly tinged with savoury characters. Firmly fragrances and a well- backbone of crisp acidity.integrated with lots of smoky bacon notes. structured palate layered balanced bright soft $20toasty oak. $35 The dark, rich, savoury with dark fruit flavours varietal palate. $35 palate has lovely fruit and long tannins. $50 d'Arenberg TheBird in Hand MAC sweetness and velvety Nepenthe Noble Mud PieMt Lofty Ranges tannins. $25 Winemaker's Viognier ArneisAdelaide Hills Shiraz Selection Shiraz 2015 HHHH2012 HHHHH Viognier Candied citrus fragrancesSavoury/earthy nose with 2014 HHH1/2 and super ripe, candieda powerful and complex Leaner greener style; fruit flavours. Could dooak influence. Lusciously hints of sage on the with more acid accordingsoft in the mouth with nose. Firm tannic palate. to one judge but willloads of intense varietal Good fruit sweetness, please many. $20flavours that linger long some pepper and niceon the palate. $350 acidity. $25 d'Arenberg The Tomich Woodside Noble Botryotinia Vineyard Shiraz Fuckeliana Semillon 2014 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Perfumed black fruit 2015 HHH1/2 nose with gamey meaty Tightly focused lemon accents and long firm barley aromas and a savoury/briary palate super sweet palate but with mouth coating has a very good balance tannins. $30 of acidity. $20 Tomich Woodside Ice Block E Riesling Gewurztraminer 2013 HHH Intense lifted aromas with powerfully sweet apricot and lemon barley flavours. $2598 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST RIVER CRUISE DOMESTIC INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR 2015 2015 2015UNFORGETTABLEEuropean Wine Discovery with Dru ReschkeWine Ambassador Series – Rhine & Moselle DiscoveryBe joined by Wine Ambassador Dru Reschke from Koonara Wines Wine Ambassadoron a unique wine cruise celebrating the best of Europe. Dru ReschkeBoard your luxury river cruise vessel for 14 nights, and drift throughthe lush fields, spectacular valleys, charming villages and medieval Koonararuins from Amsterdam to Basel, and enjoy wines from Koonaraand local wineries along the way. Volendam NETHERLANDSEXCLUSIVE! Join Wine Ambassador Dru Reschke for wine tasting, AMSTERDAM Nijmegenpairing dinners, lectures and moreINCLUDED – Explore up to 16 towns and cities, and enjoy up to Bruges Cologne32 included experiences all accompanied by expert local guidesINCLUDED – Wine tasting at a local winery in Rüdesheim BELGIUM Antwerp Bonn GERMANYINCLUDED – Wine tasting in Colmar on the Alsatian Wine Route MaastrichtINCLUDED – All onboard meals and beverages^, locally-guided Rhine Riversightseeing, tipping, transfers, Wi-Fi on ship and port charges Moselle River RüdesheimAmsterdam to Basel15 Days from $8,495 per person, twin share FRANCE Trier Cochem LUX. BernkastelFly free or fly Business Class for $2,995 pp* Luxembourg Remich HeidelbergDeparting on 30 September 2016 Speyer ARIA 14 SHIP Strasbourg Baden-Baden RIVER Colmar Black Forest Breisach BASEL SWITZERLAND EUDC15WVisit aptouring.com.au/WineSeries or call 1300 216 380 or see your local travel agent*Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp) AUD twin share. Price is correct as at 7 March 2016 but may fluctuate due to changes in availability, surcharges, fees & taxes. Price based on EUDC15W: 30 September 2016 (Cat. E). Subject to availability on select suites, not combinable, available on new bookingsonly and may be withdrawn at any time. A non-refundable deposit of $3,000 pp must be paid within 7 days of the booking. Full payment due 100 days prior to tour departure. AIRFARE OFFERS: Subject to availability of airline and booking class. Once booking class sold out surcharges apply. Flights must bebooked by APT. FLY FREE: Offer includes return economy class airfare per person and air taxes to the value of $1,000 pp. FLY BUSINESS CLASS FOR $2,995: Based on airfares with Qatar Airways (D Class) or Singapore Airlines (U Class) from SYD, MEL, BNE, ADL AND PER and is subject to availability of airlinebooking class. Includes air taxes up to the value of $800 pp for Qatar Airways and $1,100 pp for Singapore Airlines. ^Complimentary beverages exclude French Champagne, premium spirits and selected wines. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT4070

78 TASTED58 AWARDEDSWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDA very high strike rate here of marvelous fortifieds and very NOBLEpleasant sweeties. We make some of the world's greatest BOTRYTISfortifieds and here are some of the finest on show. WINES 6 TASTED 6 AWARDEDLATE HARVEST Shingleback Late Trentham The A solid group of rich Patrick of Harvest Noble Family Murray luscious wines showing Coonawarra Jessie3 TASTED McLaren Vale Darling Moscato considerable sweetness. Coonawarra Botrytis3 AWARDED Semillon 2014 HHH 2015 HHHH The better wines had Riesling 2010 Smells of honey on \"A curio,\" said one the additional complexity (375ml) HHHH1/2A small, pleasant group toast. Very sweet palate judge. Powerful orange and either herbal edges Nicely aged toastyof sweet wines, perhaps brimming over with blossom/muscat aromas or balanced acidity - or toffee characters on theneeding a touch more lovely fruit flavours. and a palate offering both. luscious fruit nose. Veryacid to achieve higher $17.95 mouthfilling herbal/ elegant, harmoniouslyscores. sweet fruit flavours. Buller Wines balanced palate. Good OTHER SWEET $15 Beverford Gold complexity of agedK1 by Geoff Hardy WHITES Truffle Hill Swan Hill Botrytis fruit, honey and spicyAutumn Harvest Pemberton Cane Semillon flavours. $49Adelaide Hills 8 TASTED Cut Riesling 2015 2010 HHHH1/2 GMH Noble SweetRiesling 3 AWARDED (375ml) HHHH Attractive marmalade- White SEA Semillon2015 HHH1/2 Intense lifted aromas of like botrytis characters 2013 HHHHVery attractive lifted A mixed bag with the citrus marmalade and to the powerful Exquisite sweettropical bouquet with best showing a balance equally intense sweet herbal nose. Perfect fruit fragrances andperfumed nuances. of acid sugar and varietal orange fruit flavours with balance between the a mid-weight palateLovely flavour fruit. excellent acidity and sumptuous quince/ with excellent botrytissweetness balanced by slight tannic grip. $35 lychee fruit flavours and flavours that arecrisp acid. $20 Saddler's Creek the acidity. $26 seamlessly balanced by Wines Watermark the acidity. $18Brangayne of Riverina MoscatoOrange Late Harvest NV HHHOrange Riesling Good muscat characters2015 HHH to the nose and lightFresh floral aromatics and floral flavours. \"Whata bright and simple, but you expect from avery tasty, palate. $24 moscato.\" $24JUDGES Andrew Jericho Troy Kalleske Neil Jericho Current winemaker at Winemaker and co-owner Winemaker Jericho Maxwell Wines since of Kalleske Wines. Wines. Former 2013. Previously with Previously with Southcorp general manager of Mollydooker. Part of the Group, including Penfolds, Taylors Wines. Former McLaren Vale Scarce Seppelt and Lindemans. winemaker for Brown Earth selection panel. Also vintaged with Kendall Brothers in North East Judge at Clare and Jackson in California. Victoria. Regular fortified Riverland wine shows. wine judge.100 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016