Winestate Magazine July August 2019

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE NURTURING SPIRITS OF THE PAS T &ORGANIC BWIOINDEYSN1A1M8ICtasted Finders Keepers A chance discovery for Mt Bera New Releases 194 tasted Adelaide Hills 137 tasted July/August 2019 Vol 42 Issue 4 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus River Regions • Yarra Valley, Tasmania & Southern Victoria Sweet White & For tifieds • Organic Wines • South Island (NZ)

Partner with at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair 7-9 November 2019

For further enquiries email to: [email protected] or phone 08 83579277



Where it all began... Schubert Estate is located on some of the most sought-after pieces of dirt in the Barossa Valley - a special patch of five blocks terroir in Marananga in the Western Barossa. “The vines grow on red-brown loam over clay, ironstone and shale on a slightly elevated ridge of about 300 metres.” The terroir of the vineyard site leads to a strong expression of Barossa Valley Shiraz - wines that are opulent, concentrated and rich, packed with black fruit, chocolate and licorice aromas, expressive tannins and structured for aging. The wines have won many international awards. Today Schubert Estate has a “Five Star” rating for its Sentinel brand in Winestate magazine’s World’s Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge 2018. The flagship wines - The Goose-yard Block Shiraz and The Gander Reserve Shiraz also regularly receive high scores. www Discover our wines at: Adelaide City Cellar Door Open weekdays 9.00am - 5.00pm 26 Kensington Road, Rose Park SA 5067 Phone 08 8431 1457 Barossa Valley Cellar Door Open Thursday to Sunday, 10.00am - 4.30pm 261 Roennfeldt Road, Marananga SA 5055 Phone 08 8431 1457 www.schubertestate.com

Wine shippers have a crush on us. Top wine shippers are very picky when it comes to choosing a carrier. What they’re looking for is smoothness and the kind of pallet-to-palate consistency which leaves their customers wanting more. That takes a special level of cargo care – along with localised service, global markets access and regular, reliable sailings. And who’s up on top of the list? Let us leave you with a tip. Hamburg Süd. No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com

NO.296 JULY/AUGUST 2019 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] CABERNET CHALLENGE Sub-editor Michael Bates IX - 2019 Administration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] One of the world’s biggest tastings of Cabernet and Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Bordeaux blends! Come and sample nearly Marketing Manager E: [email protected] 500 of the greatest Cabernet Sauvignon and blends from Australia and around the world! Tasting Coordinator Sophia Clements E: [email protected] PUBLIC TASTING Printing DAI Rubicon Friday 30 August 2019 from 6 – 8:30 pm. National Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] Wine Centre, North Terrace, Adelaide WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Come and join us for this fabulous event. Over 500 bottles available to taste. Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] Winestate subscribers are entitled to one free ticket & CONTRIBUTORS must call to claim your ticket. New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley Additional guests are welcome at a cost of only $50 South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, per person! Phone: 08 8357 9277 Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright2019byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwhole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 7

contents JULY/AUGUST 2019 32 FEATURES 32 FINDERS KEEPERS R E G U L A R S 28 THOSE IN THE KNOWE A chance discovery while on a 12 Briefs 21 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW CHOOSE CRAIGIE 12-month sabbatical from their 22 European Report with Sally Easton MW In the heart of Tasmania’s East home in Sydney led the Horner 24 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley family into the wine business at 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Coast wine region, Craigie Knowe is historic Mt Bera in the Adelaide 42 Grapevine growing a reputation for producing Hills, reports Nigel Hopkins. Nestled 50 What’s it Worth? value for money quality wines, writes in the hills around Gumeracha, the 51 Subscription Form Winsor Dobbin. Glenn and Sandy 75ha property dates back to 1851 106 Aftertaste Travers purchased the property and now boasts an extraordinary in 2013 and since have set about range of grape varieties, W I N E TAST I N G S refining the historic property and including pinot noir, cabernet 54 Adelaide Hills expanding its vine range to include sauvignon, merlot, shiraz, zweigelt, 64 Yarra Valley, Tasmania & pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, blaufrankisch and tempranillo for its Southern Victoria cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot, reds and pinot gris, gruner veltliner 72 River Regions riesling, pinot gris and chardonnay. and sauvignon blanc for its whites. 76 Sweet White & Fortified 82 South Island (Nelson & Canterbury) 28 28 85 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases 87 Organic Wines 92 New Releases 100 Best Value Buys under $20. 36 NURTURING SPIRITS 36 OF THE PAST For a complete list of what we tasted for this It might have an age-old reputation issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au for producing fine fig jams, but Adelaide’s Glen Ewin Estate is now home to a growing spirit industry. Under the watchful eye of Willa Wauchope, figs have become the foundation of a rapidly expanding gin and aperitif business, and there’s a long-term plan for fig vodka and fig rum, writes Nigel Hopkins. Winestate Magazine Issue Number 296 July/August 2019 Cover photograph Anna Pustynnikova 8 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

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2 0 19 PHASE3 - A2217 ENTRIES NOW OPEN The New Zealand International Wine Show, now in its 15th year, is rmly established as the largest wine competition held in New Zealand. In 2018, we received 2020 entries and our 24 senior wine judges awarded 257 gold medals, 355 silver and 822 bronze. We are pleased to announce the 2019 competition will be conducted under the Chairmanship of Bob Campbell MW, New Zealand’s most experienced senior wine judge and highly acclaimed wine educator. The senior judges involve a number of leading winemakers, several Masters of Wine and many key industry personnel. Entry is open for wines from any country and made from any grape variety. Don't miss this opportunity for your wines to win Gold and qualify to be included in judging for the prestigious International Trophies. ENTRIES CLOSE: Friday 20 September 2019 Closing Date for Receipt of Samples: Wednesday 25 September. Judging Commences: Monday 30 September. Full competition entry details and to enter online: www.nziws.co.nz

editorial WHAT AN ABSOLUTE MIX OF TASTINGS WE HAVE FOR YOU IN THIS ISSUE. It ranges from Organic wines to Cool Climate wines to Warm Climate value wines. What a smorgasbord! Firstly we offer a nice array of organic and biodynamic wines from our annual Winestate judging. And haven’t these come a long way from the mirth inducing samples of many years ago. This is now a serious category of wines produced by serious professional winemakers. This year was the best line up we have seen with many great examples on show. Winemakers have realized that they cannot just rest on their laurels with good pure fruit wines, they also have to make wines that can compete with any other wines in the marketplace. In this judging we can confirm that this is happening. The baton for mirth inducing wines has now been passed on to the so called “Orange wines” where no fault is too bad not to be called wine character. And let’s not mention wines that have been labelled as “Vegan Friendly” where those biodynamic winemakers who use cow horns in their vineyards are now getting hate mail from the aforementioned for doing so. Wines that are vegan friendly have been made without the use of any animal products in the “wine-making” process meaning you are not consuming any animal products, so technically these wineries are doing nothing wrong. It seems you’re damned if you do and damned if you don’t! Congratulations also to our overall winners of the Organic awards for this year – 919 Wines won the Australian Organic Wine of the Year and Villa Maria won the NZ Organic Wine of the Year. Exceptionally worthy recipients of these awards and you can see the full results starting page 87. Next we have the cool climate regions of the Adelaide Hills, and a snapshot of Southern Victoria and Tasmania. With these regions elegance abounds. There is flavour and length, but in a leaner way. It is a far cry from the good old days where wines had to be big and bold to get a gong at the major capital city wine shows. Now we recognize quality through diversity. I liken it to basketballers versus rugby players; one is tall and thin the other big and bulky yet both weigh the same and each can be recognized for their talents. Vive la difference! For New Zealand we add to this cool mix by showcasing the fine wines of the South Island, led by our New Zealand editor, Michael Cooper. At the other end of the spectrum is the high powered engine room of Australian wine, the Inland Rivers of South Australia, Victoria and New South Wales. Here we see the best value quality wines in the country, but increasingly through the establishment of alternative red and white varietals, we also see more diversity that is claiming higher prices. Not before time these predominantly Mediterranean varietals thrive in these warmer climes. Horses for courses! To finish off we have an excellent line up of new release wines, followed by our annual line up of world class sweet whites and fortifieds. Take these straight to the poolroom! Ok, the lounge room then. What’s not to like? Cheers! Peter Simic Your wine, Editor/Publisher our ports. Australia Major Sponsors and Supporters Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs ONE FOR SWEET TOOTHS MASON MADE A DIFFERENCE THE Barossa Valley has welcomed a new cellar door for WARREN Mason, one chocolate lovers. of the pioneers of the Australian wine industry, Barossa Valley Chocolate Company is the first combined died peacefully in April. chocolaterie and cellar door in South Australia’s most famous wine region. Mason and his talented chef/caterer Located in the heart of the Barossa just outside of Tanunda, the partner Jacquie Barossa’s newest tourist attraction is surrounded by vineyards established the Sydney International Wine Competition in 1982 that produce fruit for Vineyard Road, whose wines are also with the idea that wine and food were like horse and carriage - they available at the cellar door. The $5.5 million chocolaterie and needed to be judged together - because that's how most people cellar door houses a state-of-the-art chocolate kitchen. consume wine. Mason worked with many great winemakers and wine figures. Barossa Valley Chocolate Company CEO Chris Day and his wife Sandy travelled 100,000km around the world to sample During his 18-year term as founding chairman of the New the best chocolate experiences from the sweetest meccas - South Wales branch of the International Wine & Food Society, including Bruges and Florence - to seek inspiration. Mason convened a 1982 dinner to introduce several innovative small-scale winemakers who were doing exciting new things in “The world-class Barossa Valley Chocolate Company has regions such as Yarra Valley, Margaret River and Adelaide Hills. been inspired by the very best experiences from across the These winemakers and others were invited to submit wines they globe, from Bariloche in Argentina, to Napa Valley in the USA felt might complement the meal of five small courses. The event and the Chocolate Line in Bruges,” Sandy said. “Much of what was a big success and out of it grew an annual judging, the Small you see in store was inspired by our travels, like our chocolate Winemakers Competition, channelling wines into the society's wall that was inspired by the inimitable Venchi Cioccolato e Small Winemakers Dinner. Boutique winery luminaries of the period Gelato in Florence.” who entered their wines in the first tasting included John Middleton (Mount Mary), Peter McMahon (Seville Estate), Bill Pannell (Moss The facility features a range of more than 250 products for Wood), Max Lake (Lake's Folly) and Brian Croser (Petaluma). This chocolate lovers. event gradually evolved into a larger, more serious event - the Sydney International Wine Competition. “There will be something for everyone, from watching chocolatiers making the artisan, hand-made chocolate through the viewing PROVIDING PROTECTION windows in the retail area, to chocolate-making classes in the special experience room, and a specially curated chocolate and AUSTRALIAN Grape and Wine Incorporated has welcomed David wine pairing experiences in the cellar door,” Sandy said. There is Littleproud MP’s announcement that the Australian government will also an ice creamery serving freshly-made gelato and the 150- support the development of an “Australian Wine Label Intellectual seat Benni’s Cafe, which will be serving locally-sourced food. The Property Directory”. complex also has a deck overlooking a lake, a private cellar, an amphitheatre and landscaped areas. Barossa Valley Chocolate “This announcement will help Australian wine businesses of Company is open daily 9am-5pm at 64 Burings Rd, Tanunda, or all sizes to protect their brands and intellectual property from visit www.barossavalleychocolates.com.au. those who seek to rip it off” said Australian Grape and Wine chief executive Tony Battaglene. The directory will further strengthen Australia’s existing arrangements for wine exports. “Australia’s reputation as an exporter of premium wines has not happened by accident,” Battaglene said. “Over many years, Australia’s wine export approval arrangements have given customers confidence in the knowledge that the contents of a bottle match the claims about vintage, variety and region on the wine label. In the coming months we will work closely with government as regulatory changes are implemented to support the label register.” 12 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

briefs NEW ERA FOR PIKES more time with my wife Amanda Jo and my son Callum, as well as attempting to arrest the slide in my golf handicap.” NEIL Pike, joint owner and chief winemaker of premium Clare Valley wine and beer producer Pikes, has announced his retirement after The Pike family’s long history in the beverage sector started in 40 years and will leave the business at the end of September. 1878 with the arrival of patriarch Henry Pike and his young family from Dorset, England. Henry established a brewery at Oakbank, in Joint owner Andrew Pike thanked Neil for his immense the Adelaide Hills, in 1886 and subsequent generations expanded contribution to the Pikes business. the business from brewing to soft drinks and cordials, while also building a chain of hotels through the Adelaide Hills and environs. “Neil’s contribution to the Pikes business over three and half decades is immeasurable, and I sincerely thank him for his pivotal The old family business fell on hard times during and after the role in building the Pikes brands,” Andrew said. “The 1985 Pikes Great Depression and was ultimately closed and sold off in the Polish Hill River Riesling was the very first wine that Neil made early to mid-1960s. Pikes Wines was established in the Clare Valley under the Pikes label. Now, 35 years later, this wine has morphed in 1984 by fourth and fifth generation direct descendants of Henry into the Pikes Traditionale Riesling, becoming the signature label Pike, with Henry’s great grandson Edgar Pike (and his wife Merle) for Pikes and one of Australia’s most popular premium white wines. and their children Andrew (and his wife Cathy), Neil and Heather We have carved an enviable reputation for our extensive range of being the founding shareholders. white and red table wines under Neil’s custodianship.” Since then, a number of new “branches” of the Pike family tree have As part of the family succession agreement, Neil’s brother Andrew emerged. In 1998, the now highly regarded Pike & Joyce cool-climate and wife Cathryn are planning to take over Neil’s shareholding, while wine business in partnership with the Joyce family at Lenswood in sister Heather will remain as a shareholder, ensuring the company the Adelaide Hills was established, and more recently, the single remains in family hands. “Neil’s decision, after completing his 35th vineyard Gaelic Cemetery label from the White Hutt sub region of the vintage for the company, will become a catalyst to undertake structural Clare Valley. change within the Pikes Group of businesses to reposition our brand for the challenges of the future,” said Andrew. “In terms of specific Pikes Beer was reintroduced to the market in 1996 and in December succession plans within the business, this will evolve after an orderly 2014, the new Pikes Beer Company craft brewery was opened. transition period around Neil’s retirement, and will involve broad The new Pikes Tasting Room and Slate Restaurant was opened in consultation within the group’s existing management team and the December 2018 as part of an integrated visitor experience at Pikes. family. We have a strong, loyal and experienced team at Pikes who are capable and ready to take the business forward.” SHARING AND CARING Current senior winemaker Steve Baraglia will transition into Neil’s MELBOURNE has new twin hotels sharing many of the same facilities role as chief winemaker. “Steve has been with Pikes for 16 years and in one of the best locations in town. Located in the heart of the has grown with and been intrinsically involved in all aspects of wine Melbourne CBD, next to the busy Hardware Lane dining precinct, production,” said Andrew. “He has been part of the evolution of the Novotel Melbourne Central and Ibis Melbourne Central are just a Pikes brands and will transition into the role of chief winemaker for the few metres to Melbourne’s shopping precinct, with easy access to group, ensuring that Pikes winemaking will be in very safe hands.” Docklands and Southbank via a free tram ride. For lovers of Asian food there are dozens of choices on the doorstep - as well as an Speaking of his retirement, Neil said that while the decision to step Asian supermarket. The Novotel features a cafe, restaurant, bar back had become obvious to him recently, he had been contemplating and conference facilities, as well as a fitness room. Well situated the decision for a while. “Having just completed my 40th consecutive for business travellers - within close proximity to major office towers vintage in Clare, and also contemplating that I will turn 60 this - the twin complex features a casual eatery, restaurant, bar and September, I came to the conclusion that this was an appropriate conference facilities. Located on Little Lonsdale St, it features 483 time to take a step back in my working life,” he said. “I plan to spend guest rooms and the 35-floor tower is AccorHotels Australia’s first vertical new-build multi-hotel development. Ibis Melbourne Central comprises the lower tiers of the tower and make up 270 premium-economy guest rooms, while Novotel operates from level 20 with 213 4.5-star guest rooms and suites. Novotel Melbourne Central/Ibis Melbourne Central, 399 Little Lonsdale St, Melbourne; phone (03) 9068 5458 or visit www.accorhotels.com/ gb/hotel-A0B1-novotel- melbourne-central. July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs ZERO EMISSIONS CELEBRATING PINOT NOIR KEITH Tulloch Wine is the first winery to be certified carbon neutral CHRISTCHURCH on the South Island has been named as host city for in the Hunter Valley and is only the second winery in the country the 2021 edition of the New Zealand Pinot Noir Celebration. to be certified by the Australian government. Pinot Noir NZ was established in 2001 with the aim of bringing the Keith Tulloch Wine and every bottle that it produces is now world of pinot noir to New Zealand by creating an experience to certified carbon neutral under the National Carbon Offset “showcase everything unique about growing pinot in Aotearoa”. Standard (NCOS). Carbon neutral means that Keith Tulloch Wine’s net greenhouse gas emissions equals zero, from grape to glass. The three-day celebration is held every four years, when more than 100 New Zealand pinot noir producers gather, along with Tulloch and his family made the decision to become carbon pinot enthusiasts, journalists and members of the trade, to explore neutral last year, after successive vintages of unprecedented the country’s most popular red variety. temperatures and noticeable long-term changes in the annual cycle of the grapevine growth. The last event was held in 2017 on Wellington’s waterfront. The event has not been held in Christchurch before and will be a These factors are a clear and present threat to agriculture in boost for a city that has been plagued by earthquakes and the Australia. While this is only a small piece in the global emissions recent mosque shootings. picture, the family feels it is essential that “we do our part and make sustainability a central part of the agribusiness”. Pinot Noir NZ 2021 will be the sixth event and will also mark the celebration’s 20th anniversary. “The New Zealand wine “Viticulture and winemaking are inherently linked to the land industry is becoming mature and confident, comfortable about and the climate, so we have a deep connection to the natural who we are and how we talk about ourselves,” said Pinot world that we live and work in. Climate change is affecting us Noir 2021 co-chair Helen Masters, winemaker at Ata Rangi in now - by drinking wine that is carbon neutral people can take Martinborough. “New Zealand’s continual innovation in grape climate action while still enjoying the finer things in life, guilt free,” growing, winemaking and industry-wide sustainability attracts says Keith Tulloch. great interest on the world stage.” Keith Tulloch Wine joins Ross Hill Wines in Orange as the two “The committee considered a number of venues for Pinot Noir 2021, wineries in Australia which are certified carbon neutral by the but Christchurch really stood out for its energy and collaborative Australian government. approach. It’s a fascinating city, the speed with which it’s evolving makes it an extraordinary destination for our guests to explore. “It’s also a natural mid-point for our pinot noir growing regions in the North and South islands. Following the appalling terrorist attack in Christchurch on March 15, we are even more committed to showing our support for the city.” Pinot Noir 2021 will run from February 23-25, 2021.Visit www. pinotnz.co.nz. 14 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

briefs FIRST FOR THE GOLD COAST WHISKY ADVENTURE CONTINUES ACCOR has chosen the Gold Coast as the first Asia Pacific market SPIRITS drinkers are becoming more discerning and adventurous to launch its luxury lifestyle hospitality brand Hyde. than ever before. Global behemoth Accor acquired a 50 per cent stake in Hyde Entrepreneur Joel Hauer is gambling that Australian whisky owner sbe in October 2018. drinkers are willing to splash out $59 a month to sample three different whiskies delivered to their door free of shipping costs. Opened in Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast in April, Hyde The Australian Bureau of Statistics reports an increase in premium Paradiso aims to be a fashionable playground (restaurant/bar/ spirit consumption, particularly in relation to whisky, vodka and gin. club) that its developers say is inspired by Los Angeles’ famous Sunset Strip. Enter Whisky Loot, aimed at meeting the needs of Australian spirit lovers and their increasingly refined approach. Whisky drinkers The venue will open all day and evolve into an evening lounge subscribe for a monthly fee and are provided with an opportunity and dining experience. to taste three different whiskies from premium award-winning distilleries from around the world. Simon McGrath, chief operating officer of Accor Pacific, said: “We are extremely excited to open the first sbe venue for Accor in The concept aims to equip consumers with more knowledge by Australia, on Queensland’s Gold Coast. Our partnership with sbe acting as an alternative method of alcohol discovery. Members and its founder and CEO Sam Nazarian will combine the best of also have the option to buy full bottles at discounted rates. both our worlds to provide unparalleled lifestyle experiences for our guests. Hyde Paradiso will be a game changer for the Gold Coast, “Whisky distilleries are where the craft beer market was in the which is befitting of a sophisticated and energetic venue which early ’90s; we’re probably at 10 per cent of where we could be in will become the place to see and be seen by the sea.” Nazarian, just a few short years,” says Hauer. said: “Everyone at sbe is hugely excited to expand our hospitality brands through the strategic partnership with Accor and to work “With more and more choice coming on to the market every closely with Simon McGrath and his talented team. Australia is day, consumers are demanding more than their traditional bottle such a welcoming, youthful, and dynamic market full of growth shop can provide.” opportunities for our brands, and we couldn't be more thrilled to launch Hyde on the Gold Coast. We look forward to bringing more The three 60-millilitre tasters are presented in a stylish gift of our brands, dining and entertainment experiences to Australia box set complete with expert tasting notes, making it a popular and across the globe with Accor in the future.” corporate gift. Whisky Loot also plans to launch into Hyde has evolved from its Sunset Strip flagship (a popular additional liquor verticals, celebrity hangout) to include locations in South Beach, Las including gin and vodka, in Vegas, Downtown LA, Miami and more to come across the US and the near future. Subscriptions beyond. Hyde is one of sbe's leading hospitality and residential are also available pre-paid. brands, including SLS, Delano, Mondrian, The House of Originals Three months for $169, six (Sanderson, St. Martin Lane, 10 Karakoy and Shore Club) and months for $329 and 12 months The Redbury Hotels. for $639 all shipped nationally for free. See www.whiskyloot.com. July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs TOP ACCOLADES “Our goal is to develop an alcohol-free adult beverage which imitates the aspects of alcohol that we all want - sociability, WHEN a hotel is named among the top 20 in Melbourne on relaxation, fun - but without those horrible harmful effects that cause TripAdvisor, you know it has a lot going for it. so much damage to our health,” the Alcarelle website says. For anyone who wants to be a walk from the city centre but still Nutt has spent years studying the way alcohol stimulates different be able to stroll in parks and breathe fresh air, award-winning The receptors in the brain and has discovered that some receptors bind Blackman, part of the Art Series group, is a very good choice. with alcohol to provide the positive effects we enjoy, such as feeling relaxed and sociable; while others combine to bring about negative Despite having 209 rooms, The Blackman has the vibe of a effects such as headaches, liver damage and hangovers. boutique establishment - with smiling, helpful staff. Many of the rooms (there are several different configurations of rooms and “We know where in the brain alcohol has its ‘good’ effects and suites) have views over Albert Park. ‘bad’ effects, and what particular receptors mediate that,” he told the science pages of UK newspaper The Guardian. “The effects The interiors, dotted with prints of the late artist Charles Blackman, of alcohol are complicated but … you can target the parts of the are modern and bright - and built within and above the historic brain you want to target.” Airlie Mansion, less than 100m from Albert Park. Each suite has LCD TV, iPod docking station, refrigerator and microwave. There is Nutt says it is possible to design a peak effect into Alcarelle also smart car rental service and bicycle hire.You’ll find a tram stop which means no matter how much a drinker consumes, they directly outside and Melbourne city centre is only 2km away. It is won’t get drunk. Nutt is an English neuropsychopharmacologist a 10-minute walk to the Royal Botanic Gardens. Rooms start from specialising in the research of drugs that affect the brain and under $200 a night for direct bookings. Art Series The Blackman, conditions such as addiction, anxiety and sleep. He is head of 452 St Kilda Rd, (entry via Arthur St), Melbourne; phone 1800 278 the Neuropsychopharmacology Unit in the Centre for Academic 468 or visit www.theblackman.com.au. Psychiatry in the Division of Brain Sciences, Department of Medicine, Hammersmith Hospital, Imperial College London. He is also visiting HANGOVER TO BE CONFINED TO THE PAST professor at the Open University in the UK and Maastricht University in the Netherlands. Nutt and his business partner David Orren started WOULDN’T it be great if a night of drinking didn’t pose a risk to raising seed funding in 2018 to bring Alcarelle to market. Their aim our health and we could wake up the next morning feeling fresh isn’t for Alcarelle to become a drinks company in its own right, but to and ready to go? supply companies in the drinks industry with the active ingredient, so that they can make and market their own products. A new synthetic alcohol that produces all the good effects of booze without out any of the harmful ones may be available within five Company managing director Orren says Alcarelle isn’t aiming to years. Alcarelle, founded by British professor David Nutt, believes replicate fine wines or single malt whisky. the product will transform the drinks industry. “We think, once we’re approved and on the market,” he said, “we are going to see an amazing and wonderful explosion of creativity. The drinks industry employs really creative people.” Orren recently told the Irish Examiner that it might be able to wrap up all the necessary safety testing and regulatory requirements within five years. The Alcarelle website says Orren “brings 20 years international experience of enabling disruptive technologies to secure market engagement”. “The work is not finished and questions remain to be answered. But we believe the end result is worth the investment in time, effort and money that this project requires. The long-term benefits to people and society will be enormous. There is obviously great potential for Alcarelle to become a successful business. If we succeed, Alcarelle will provide a percentage of its income to research initiatives to develop a wider range of products that offer enjoyable alternatives to drinking ethanol. Some will be used to influence government and we will use our success to build a viable long-term business ensuring the future availability of choice for those who prefer to drink a safer and more responsible alternative to alcohol.” GATES OPEN ON GLAMPING SITE IF you really want to get away from it all then New South Wales bush retreat Turon Gates is an excellent choice. Turon Gates has just added six new riverside, self-catering 16 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

briefs glamping tents on its 2,500ha property at Capertee on the outer TASTE OF THE UNUSUAL edge of the Blue Mountains. The new 50 square metre tents feature teak and canvas interiors, and combine a rustic charm CALLING all whisky lovers looking for a taste that is slightly away with functionality. Furnishings include a sumptuous four-poster from the mainstream. bed plus daybed and lounge area, contemporary bathroom (with bath for two), kitchenette with Nespresso coffee machine Johnnie Walker has announced the latest addition to the and a Danish wood burner stove for winter nights. experimental Johnnie Walker Blenders’ Batch project: Sweet Peat. Expect a welcome gift of local wine and honey, complimentary The result of over 10 years of experiments by Johnnie Walker’s toiletries, and an in-tent selection of magazines, books and team of blenders to explore what happens when different types of board games. smoke and sweetness collide, Sweet Peat arrives at a time when the appetite for smoked meats, foods and drinks is at an all-time All Turon’s tents overlook the clear trout stream running high. The new release delivers a mix of peated smoke for smoky through the property, which is dotted with cabins and alive whisky fans, alongside a smooth caramel sweetness for those with native wildlife. After a three-hour drive from Sydney you who prefer sweet tastes. At the heart is whisky from the island will be surrounded by kangaroos, wombats, the odd platypus distillery of Caol Ila, specifically chosen for its soft bonfire smoke and echidnas. Katoomba, Mudgee, Bathurst and Lithgow are and hidden sweetness. Speyside malts, including Cardhu, add within easy reach. sweet fresh fruit flavours such as apple, orange and pineapple. Whisky from Glendullan, aged in sherry casks, brings additional Another new offering at Turon Gates is The Pavilion, an event sweetness, rich fruity notes and balance. glamping tent accommodating up to 100 seated or 150 standing guests for social gatherings, corporate and wellness retreats. Johnnie Walker is the world’s best-selling Scotch whisky, sold in over 180 countries. Blender George Harper led the creation of The sustainable resort is solar powered and wifi is available the new whisky in collaboration with two-time Master Blender of around the glamping site. Visit www.turongates.com. the Year Jim Beveridge. “I’m incredibly proud of this whisky,” he said. “It’s the result of 10 years of experiments and has been well worth the wait. Johnnie Walker Blenders' Batch Sweet Peat is equal parts exciting, delicious and unexpected, and I think whisky fans - both those who are really into smoke and those who prefer a sweeter Scotch - are in for a treat.” The range of award-winning Johnnie Walker whiskies includes Johnnie Walker Red Label, Black Label, Double Black, Green Label, Gold Label Reserve, Aged 18 Years and Blue Label. Together they account for nearly 19 million cases sold annually. The limited-edition Johnnie Walker Blenders’ Batch Sweet Peat (40.8 per cent ABV) is now available in Dan Murphy’s across Australia stores for $55 for 500ml. VARIETY THE SPICE OF LIFE REMEMBER when we all drank shiraz and chardonnay, and a handful of other French grape varieties? Those days are long gone. Nowadays we are equally likely to pick up a refreshing glass of inzolia or gruner veltliner. In its short history of just over 200 years the Australian wine industry has undergone a bewildering number of changes. There have been booms and busts, pestilence, taxes, economic crises and rapid changes in consumer tastes. A new book, What Varietal is That?, by Vinodiversity website owner Darby Higgs is a most useful guide to the myriad new varieties now on offer. The book is based on the information Higgs has collected to write and maintain Vinodiversity. No fewer than 130-plus grape varieties grown commercially in Australia are described and analysed. There are well over a thousand wine grape varieties used commercially around the world, and What Varietal is That? helps readers to July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefs understand which grapes are important - and which are likely to Through a dedicated app, purchasers can also access important be important in the future. There also some useful food matches. security details, confirming that the wine is authentic and unopened. “We’ve taken our efforts in packaging to new levels Higgs’ tip for the next big thing? “Tempranillo is well on the way with The Legacy. We’ve blurred the boundaries of wine and art to to becoming a premium variety in Australia.” bring something truly special to celebrate our 50th anniversary,” said Mitchell Taylor. “Innovation is core to our business, and with What Varietal is That? is available through Amazon for $21.35 the advancements in packaging technology, we’ve considered paperback, or on Kindle. all the elements that will make this wine, and how its cared for, a world-class wine.” VARIETY THE BIG WINNER QUALITY UP, SUPPLY LIMITED TIM Adams Wines has unveiled stylish new packaging for its new vintage 2015 The Fergus red blend. THERE is decidedly mixed news for lovers of Henschke Hill of The Clare Valley producer’s new livery underlines Grace; one of Australia's highest- that since 2001 it has supported Variety, the children’s profiled single-vineyard wine. charity. “We have refreshed our label design to evolve with the times, and we are thrilled to acknowledge and The 2014 vintage was released promote Variety on the back label,” Adams said. “Part Australia-wide on May 1 at $845 proceeds from all Tim Adams wines go to Variety, who per bottle. The quality is high support children who are sick, disadvantaged or have but the quantity is low, extremely special needs. To be able to raise awareness and low. The tiny yield of Hill of Grace assist such an important charity through joint promotion 2014 is comparable to that of the is extremely satisfying.” previous 2013 vintage - meaning the wine will be in very short CREATING A LEGACY supply as all the fruit is grown on the one 4ha vineyard. TAYLORS’ new $1000 a bottle The Legacy 2014, unveiled in April, contains interesting innovations. “We describe Hill of Grace 2014 as a vintage graced by beauty,” says Stephen Henschke. “Five years after watching the six shiraz A unique, three-pronged sculpture encases the wine, each pillar blocks from the Hill of Grace vineyard in the Eden Valley transform signed by a representative of each generation. The wine is bottled from juice into wine in our open-topped fermentation tanks, we were in a statuesque tapered glass bottle, and as a statement to Taylors’ captured by the beauty of the matured wine; with its complexity, pioneering heritage, is enclosed with the screw cap. interwoven layers and incredible length.” Taylors’ iconic three seahorse emblem shines prominently as The Hill of Grace vineyard was first planted in 1860. “We are the focus on the front label with a handcrafted, silver medallion incredibly fortunate in Australia as a relatively young winemaking country to be able to make wines from some of the oldest vines coated in rhodium, one in the world,” says Henschke. “Our dry-grown, gnarled vines - of the rarest precious centenarians and ancestors on the Hill of Grace vineyard were metals in the world. The planted by my maternal great-great grandfather Nicolaus Stanitzki.” treatment and finish of The 2014 vintage of Hill of Grace Shiraz is the 56th release of the the icon ensures it will icon wine, first created in 1958 by Cyril Henschke. never tarnish. Authenticity is taken to new heights as Taylors unveiled a world-first, protective bottle overcap and security chip. The security chip, one of the first of its kind, enables purchasers of The Legacy to access information about the wine through their smart phone using near-field communication. 18 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

briefs ‘FOR SALE’ SIGNS GO UP While still in its infancy, the project combines emerging QR code technology embedded in the wine bottle’s screw cap TWO of Australia’s best-known wineries are up for sale. which is then linked to a consumer-friendly blockchain ledger The move follows the sale of Accolade Wines, one of the which can be used to confirm the wine’s authenticity. world’s biggest wine companies, last year to private equity The two Clare Valley inventors believe that by using blockchain, investor The Carlyle Group for $1 billion. which is the technology behind cryptocurrencies, their idea not only has the potential to guarantee a wine bottle’s security but Soon after the group announced that it was putting Houghton could deliver future savings in wine industry logistics. Wines, one of Western Australia’s most awarded winemakers, up for sale. The Swan Valley winery carried out its last vintage The $50,000 prize money will go towards finalising proof of this summer and production now moves to Nannup in the south- concept for their patent. west of the state. Houghton was established in 1836 making it one of Australia’s oldest operating wineries. The producer’s DISTILLER’S BIG PAY DAY winery and extensive grounds and gardens are on the market but not the name. THE incredible success story that is Four Pillars gin, just keeps getting better. Also up for sale is Knappstein Wines in the Clare Valley. The producer was due to be celebrating its 50th year of operation Having opened its doors in the Yarra Valley in 2013 and taken this year but now will be closed. The vineyards and winery are out national and international awards for its range of gins, Four on the market. Pillars has hit pay dirt selling a 50 per cent stake in its business When asked for more information on the sales, which have been to Lion Nathan. widely written about and advertised in the media, Accolade Wines issued a brief statement. “While it is public knowledge While the sale price was not disclosed, Four Pillars produces that we are testing the market for a possible sale of these sites, around 500,000 bottles annually with sales estimated to be management are not actively promoting this.” around $35 million. The distillery was formed by three mates - Stuart Gregor, Cameron Mackenzie and Matt Jones - and all CLAMPING DOWN ON COUNTERFEITERS three will continue to be involved in its running. TWO Clare Valley wine men have taken out a $50,000 prize The acquisition came about after the distillery had been for their innovative idea which they claim could potentially be approached by a number of industry players and private equity worth $1 billion in Australian wine sales. funds looking to make an investment. Gregor described the decision as the start of a new chapter for the business. Clare Valley grape grower David Travers and Clare Valley winemaker Jeffrey Grosset won the $50,000 South Australian Premier’s Blockchain Innovation Challenge in Adelaide in March for a technological breakthrough which will help prevent the rising incidence of counterfeit wine. July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 19

New Zealand’s Most Trusted & Admired Wine Brand George, Founder, Owner

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW UP THERE WITH THE BEST of our pinot noir. The sauvignon blanc are absolutely stunning. We are really excited by the minerality that should show in the wines AFTER the rather tricky conditions delivered by weather gods following such a dry season where the vines have been forced over the previous two harvests, the 2019 vintage’s grapes to source water deeper.” Over in Nelson, they had a drier spring, were brought into wineries amid a chorus of superlatives. “In a followed by a very dry and warm summer. Todd Stevens, Neudorf word: outstanding,” was the summary of Kumeu River’s usually Vineyards’ winemaker says it was: “An excellent vintage. Harvest understated Michael Brajkovich MW. “For me, it is right up there was early and compressed with fruit in superb condition. Wines with the truly great years.” Quality and consistency were catch are still to reveal themselves but a quiet confidence fills the cellar. phrases echoed the length and breadth of the country. “I've not Yields were on target…we just didn’t have to do as much work to seen a vintage with the threesome of chardonnay, syrah and the get there.” Moving south, Dom Maxwell, winemaker of Greystone cab family all shining so well in one season,” commented Hawke’s and Muddy Water in North Canterbury’s Waipara Valley, found Bay winemaker Warren Gibson. Damien Yvon, of Marlborough’s much to be positive about. “Lower than average crop levels for Clos Henri, was equally enthusiastic. “The whole harvest has been most growers meant it was an early start to harvest. Dry conditions pretty relaxed with no weather or disease pressure,” he said. “We prevailed, resulting in clean fruit with very good phenological have been able to pick to optimum ripeness every block, a real ripeness. Wineries all seem to be reporting a very high quality blessing.” vintage, with lower volumes.” Central Otago experienced several hard spring frosts, with frost fighting again needed in April. January A ‘DREAM’ RUN was warmer than usual, however a very cool February slowed vines down, maintaining acid levels. While yields were not capacious, IN contrast to the last two years where tropical cyclones swept there were few complaints about the ultimate quality. Jen Parr, down the coasts, 2019 was a far more consistent experience across winemaker at Valli Vineyards, observed: “A very wet November set the various regions. A cool, fairly wet spring in most parts of the us up for challenging flowering resulting in variability within sub- country gave way to a long, hot summer, which at times threatened regions and sites. We had a couple of instances of significant rain to be a little too warm and dry. Thankfully, patches of timely rain, leading up to and during harvest, and many frost fighting events followed by autumn’s cooler nights, ensured vines largely remained which kept many of us on our toes and a bit on edge. Quality is unstressed with sugar-acid ratios balanced. For many, yields were great across the sub-regions and varieties with lower yields and down, providing pressure relief for press and tank space in what impressive concentration. A vintage like 2019 with a few challenges was generally a slightly earlier, more compressed harvest. Chloe to test us usually delivers great treasure in the bottle. I can’t wait Somerset, winemaker at Cable Bay noted: “Every Waiheke winery to find out.” Or as Neudorf’s Stevens says: “I will just refer to it as was jam packed with endless fermenters. We got pretty good at a good vintage…which, if you know me, translates to a ‘bloody Tetris during those picking and pressing days.” Somerset feels cracker’!” 2019 was “the best vintage Waiheke Island has seen for a number of years. We had impressive phenolic ripeness early on and at MAKING THE MOST OF GRAPE WASTE relatively moderate brix levels - a winemaker’s dream.” Things were equally rosy on the North Island’s East Coast, with Kirsten Searle, NEW Zealand’s harvest may be dwarfed by Australia’s (400,000 of Matawhero Estate, observing: “A strong vintage for Gisborne. vs 1.8m tonnes) but it still leaves an awful lot of grape debris (the An early harvest with the grapes being picked when ready, which skins, pulp, seeds, stems, etc, known as marc) that needs to go as winemakers we love.” Warren Gibson added: “It's better than somewhere. Marlborough’s 2018 harvest (around 70 per cent of the (Hawke’s Bay’s highly lauded) 2013 for me which was almost too national total) generated 46,000 tonnes of marc; its disposal can dry. We had a lot better set up with canopy and vine health from rain be challenging, as attested by recent high-profile companies fined earlier in the season. I'd say yields were on average down 10-15 for non-compliant disposal practices. Marc can leach nitrogen, per cent .” Sentiments were similar in Martinborough. Wilco Lam, chloride and sodium, potentially contaminating soil and waterways. of Dry River Vineyards, also experienced lower yields but said: Fortunately, one of the region’s largest producers may have found “Despite this (or thanks to?), it’s an exciting vintage; beautiful clean an innovative and sustainable solution. A collaboration between fruit with healthy maturity. We see dense aromatic and structural Indevin, the Marlborough District Council and Dave and Phil Big wines going to barrel at the moment - very promising.” Bale Contracting Ltd, has resulted in “the Beast”, a $700,000 Across the Cook Strait to Marlborough, it was a vintage of two self-steering tractor that spreads marc at Big Bale’s Wairau Valley halves, with the wet spring changing abruptly in late December to arable farm, Back Estate, at 40 tonnes a hectare where it is then warm, sunny, often blustery days. This reduced soil moisture and ploughed into the ground. The nutrients are returned to the soil, vigour but the atypical number of days above 30C quickly brought helping to break down the stubble ready for the next crop and the threat of drought to some vineyards. Regional water supplies potentially reducing fertiliser input. Six other companies have were duly restricted, fortunately early March rain provided welcome delivered their marc to Back Estate this year, meaning around 40 top-ups. For Clos Henri’s Yvon, it was an interesting challenge. per cent of Marlborough’s marc has been disposed of sustainably. “Since we have worked over the last decade to reduce irrigation, A wine win in anyone’s books. we were pleased to notice the vineyard was really resilient. Looking back at the hot summer, we are nicely surprised by the freshness July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 21

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW FIZZ DOMINATES AS PRODUCTION BUBBLES ALONG BREXIT or no Brexit (at the time of writing), covers just 7 per cent of the vineyard area. Champagne Pommery has gone for the UK wine - production - industry is in Below that lies the country’s Germanic the quicker win. They teamed up with full, gung-ho stance. viticultural history, with the likes of seyval Hattingley Valley in Hampshire (central, blanc, reichensteiner and madeleine south coast) and has taken the negociant The UK wine industry has without angevine. And now, in line with plantings, route of buying fruit to work with. This doubt been helped by what were record about 70 per cent of production goes into enabled its first release to market in 2018. high harvest volumes in 2018. Mind the sparkling stream. The wine is called “Louis Pommery”, a you, record-high in the UK is kind of brand name for both Pommery’s non- Tasmania-esque in proportion. Data from What about a tipping point in terms champagne sparklers (the other one is wine industry body Wines of Great Britain of foreign investment? Despite much made in California). Pommery also bought (WineGB) states that 15.6 million bottles speculation and rumour-mongering over 40ha - in Hampshire, and planted it late were produced. Importantly, the quality the past decade, just a few drops, not in 2017, ready to supply own-fruit for the of the 2018 is also high. Challengingly, even a trickle, of Champenois have put brand from 2022. in such a cool, marginal climate, both their money into UK chalk and greensand, volumes and quality are highly variable. listed on just three fingers of one hand. While Pommery is often cited as being Indeed, the sum of the ’15, ’16 and ’17 the first champagne house to launch vintages were still smaller than the size A more tangible an English sparkler, the original French of the 2018 vintage alone. In this case, investor was actually fifth-generation an easier measure of growth is sales - up development, just within champagne vigneron Didier Pierson, nearly a third between 2015 and 2017. about a decade earlier, who planted the last year or so, Meonhill in 2004, in Hampshire, and Growth in vineyard hectarage is also released to market in 2009. The 4ha, worthy of note - now nearly 3000ha. This is that non-traditional south-facing slope was planted after is a tripling of size since the turn of the Pierson searched across southern Britain millennium. And up nearly 50 per cent just method sparkling wines for a spot showing some resemblance to since 2015. There’s room for more growth the Cote de Blancs in Champagne - the - this is a fraction of the land suitable are also starting to location of his family’s vineyard. This for viticulture in England and Wales, vineyard and wine now come under the according to a study published last year be made. Hambledon umbrella, having been bought in the Journal of Land Use Science which by Hampshire neighbour in 2014. identified 33,700ha “prime viticultural High profile Pommery and Taittinger have land”. That’s about the same size as the certainly garnered the recent headlines. The negociant versus estate model Champagne vineyards. Champagne Taittinger has plumped for is a development to watch in the UK Kent, in England’s far south-east, buying sparkling wine industry. It’s in part related It was in 2013 that a tipping point was 40ha of land in 2015, and planting it in May to the other side of the same coin - reached - the UK started putting more fruit 2017. The aim with this brand - Domaine regionalisation - which is something into sparkling production than still wine, Evremond - is to release it to the market in on the UK’s radar, but having mixed a trend that continues. Unsurprisingly, 2023, after three years’ maturation on lees. results. There’s little communication to therefore, pinot noir, chardonnay and consumers about different production pinot meunier are now the top three most models - the negociant model where fruit planted varieties, in that order, accounting is sourced from various locations, versus for 70 per cent of all plantings. Bacchus, the estate model, where fruit is sourced the UK’s “signature” still wine grape variety 22 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

from owned-vineyards, typically, but not priced accordingly. It would be too easy Perfectly always in the locality. Hattingley Valley, balanced. for example, happily adheres to the to wipe out the good reputation work negociant model, taking grapes from key DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, growing regions. Nyetimber, by contrast, that has already been achieved. But yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. states is uses “only estate-grown grapes Our bold service offering is built on from our own vineyards” from “the three it’s exciting that other options are also a full-bodied foundation of vast counties of Sussex, Hampshire and Kent”. general commercial experience, yet A further complication is that so far the coming on to the market. overlaid with distinctive specialist regionalisation thing discusses lines along expertise in a number of key county boundaries - Sussex, Hampshire, This new development might spur back industries and niche market Kent, etc - rather than along geographical, sectors. topographical, geological boundaries - into action the debates around whether It’s a winning combination that chalk versus greensand, for example. allows every client who opens a English sparkling wine should be renamed “case” to get exactly what they A more tangible development, just need. So whatever your business within the last year or so, is that non- as something else. As cava is the umbrella or legal objectives, don’t hesitate traditional method sparkling wines are to contact us. also starting to be made. Up to that point, term for traditional method sparkling At DW Fox Tucker, every all sparklers, for whatever reason, were client matters. being made by the traditional method. wine from Spain, so UK producers and With prosecco sales still riding high, it L14, 100 King William Street is no surprise that English winemakers trade have wondered about terms such Adelaide SA 5000 have begun experimenting with the p: +61 8 8124 1811 method of production used to make as merrett (the Brit who first documented prosecco - the tank, or charmat method. e: [email protected] It’s quicker than traditional method, and how to make sparkling wine, 30-plus years dwfoxtucker.com.au therefore cheaper. It preserves more primary, fruity character of the grape before Dom Perignon made bubbly), or COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES varieties used (useful for those Germanic ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY varieties). I’m not sure why it’s taken britagne (pronounced “brittania” but looks so long for someone to go down this INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY route, and clear, unambiguous labelling too much like champagne?), British fizz RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES needs to be prominent to avoid any SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS misunderstanding with consumers. So (no explanation necessary), among more COMPENSATION far, part of the “proposition” of English sparkling wines, when considered as esoteric others. Industry members might a category, has been as a high-end, high-class, high-quality alternative to need to think quickly - would they want champagne, with a quintessential British twist and uniqueness. Products are an umbrella term for all English sparkling wine, or solely for traditional method sparklers - to help distinguish them from the emerging category of tank method sparklers? Part of the challenge seems to be that the industry is developing faster than thoughts about categories and clear communication can be agreed. Exports will be a key part of any sustainable success story. WineGB data show exports doubled in 2018, going to 40 countries, notably the US and Scandinavian countries. Less than 10 per cent of production is exported, so the imperative needs to be maintained - whatever the political situation has turned out to be. July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 23 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY FORCES OF NATURE I’M writing this in April and again hearing near lakes or oceans deter frost by creating cold air at ground level by moving warmer stories about spring frost creating havoc air movement/convection. Vineyards air in, which is typically sitting above the in France. The Loire Valley has been hit for planted on slopes provide frost protection cold frost. Fans can be extremely noisy so the third time in four years. On the nights as cold air flows downwards and away from not popular close to residential areas. In of April 26 and 27, 2016, there was frost in the vines. The higher the trellising the better some regions helicopters have been used Burgundy that severely reduced the crop when it comes to protecting the vine, as well which must also be unsettling for sleep- and saw the village of Marsannay lose 90 as choosing the row directions to allow that deprived residents. per cent of its fruit. In 2017 the right bank cold air to drain away and not be trapped. of Bordeaux was hit, and it is regarded as Wind breaks may be essential to protect the One of my first touches with “Jack the worst freeze since 1991. Yields were cut vines from damaging winds, but can create Frost” was brought about by my love of by up to 40 per cent. Chablis was also hit a problem in trapping cold air. Tasmania’s Rochecombe wines and the and vignerons lit up 1000 anti frost candles story of its sad demise. Founded in the to protect their vines. In Burgundy they Avoiding frost starts in 1980s by Swiss vignerons, the business burnt hay bonfires in the early mornings went into receivership due to frosts wiping to block out the sun, which sounds a bit the vineyard planning out their crops three years in a row. At the weird. There is a simple answer, the frost time I remember feeling so sad for the freezes the buds and when the sun rises process. Sites that owners. The legendary Czech migrant, and hits the frozen water droplets they master butcher, businessman, developer act as magnifying glasses and burns the are prone to frost are turned vigneron Josef Chromy OAM delicate buds beneath. So burning fires stepped in and bought the vineyard and he blocks the harmful sun rays and allows commonly on flat plains built a dam and irrigation system to protect the ice crystals time to slowly melt. It is not it against frost. He then subsequently sold it all doom and gloom as, depending on the or where there is a slight on and today it is the site of Bay of Fires in timing of the frost, there is hope that the vine Pipers River and the dam has a lovely family throws a second bud and you can still get undulation. of platypus residing when I last visited. a reasonable harvest. Frost events can be controlled by At the other extreme, heat is another By definition, frost occurs at temperatures fans or spraying water from overhead menace that can affect the vine in all sorts below 0C and commonly affects an area irrigation systems on to the vine when of ways. Sunburn damage can be done from ground level to around 2m. Above 1.5m the temperatures are indicating frost is before, but more often, after veraison. can be a critical 1C warmer than at ground going to occur. This can be an expensive This is when a grape starts to ripen and level. In Australia the areas most commonly operation given that the water might be on changes colour. Temperatures in the affected by frost are inland regions such strict allocation. The way the “aspersion 40s are the most worrying with damage as Coonawarra and Padthaway in South technique” works is that sprayed water occurring after a short exposure of, say, five Australia, and Grampians and Macedon freezes around the buds and releases a minutes, but heatwaves with temperatures Ranges in Victoria, but many cool sites small amount of latent heat which protect in the mid 30s for consecutive days can across all states can be affected. the vine from further damage by the frost. be a treat. Semillon, chardonnay, cabernet When wind fans are used they stir up the sauvignon and merlot are susceptible to Avoiding frost starts in the vineyard sunburn, while grenache and tempranillo planning process. Sites that are prone to can withstand the heat. The skins can be frost are commonly on flat plains or where burnt brown and shrivel to the extent that there is a slight undulation. Choosing sites they become more likely to be attacked 24 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

by rot. The heat will also wilt the leaves We have to wash which will increase the exposure of the over 32,000 bunches to sunburn. Leaf plucking and wine glasses vertical shoot positioning (VSP) trellising is each year ... great in cool climates because it exposes the grapes to the sun, but in hot regions it so you don’t have to. can be a distinct disadvantage. To protect the grapes the vine must have adequate Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide shade through its leaf canopy and be well phone +61 8 8357 9277 or hydrated in advance of hot days. Accurate weather forecasting is critical in predicting on-line www.winestate.com.au frost and heatwaves, which is why you see viticulturalists glued to their smart phones at certain times of the year. Sunscreen for vines might sound ridiculous but has been used successfully in Australia and the US. Surround is a kaolin-based clay that has been trialled in the Hunter Valley on semillon. It is applied as a spray to the grapes and vine and keeps the vine cool and stops grapes getting sunburn. The protective film cuts out some the damaging wavelengths while still allowing enough through to continue photosynthesis that is critical for plant growth and sugar accumulation. In the Hunter Valley trial conducted by Wine Australia sunscreen-treated grapes had better fruit ripeness, colour and required less fining when compared with unprotected and heat damaged grapes. The force of nature unleashing extreme weather events seem an ongoing news item across the globe in this millennium. But it could be argued that they are nothing new. Consider this, the winter freeze of 1956 destroyed a quarter of all vineyards in Bordeaux. July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 25

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING GREAT DANES TAP INTO BREWING HISTORY I VISITED the Carlsberg Brewery in eco-luxury lovers alike. The architects themselves. The system was tested at the Copenhagen just before the iconic Danish have teamed original grain silos and malt nearby five-star Herman K hotel, housed beer maker moved its production facilities chambers with a three-level light sculpture in a re-configured industrial transformer to Jutland in 2008. The historic weight of and bowed windows that echo the shape station, and also removes odours and 160 years of brewing was everywhere. We of beer bottles. I stayed in one of the suites contaminants without the use of chemical passed under a gateway emblazoned with in the Round Tower which offers panoramic detergents and cleaners. The rooftop swastikas and the executives showing us views of Copenhagen. Tramonto restaurant offers great views of around tried their little joke. Unfortunately Copenhagen and an all-organic breakfast for them, I and several others in the group Although only one-third menu. There’s also a natural trend in the knew there wasn't a Nazi connection free daily wine tour that sets off from the and the building pre-dated Hitler's rise complete, Carlsberg lounge bar. to power by decades. Quite rightly, Carlsberg had incorporated the Hindu City District will include Although only one-third complete, symbol for prosperity and good luck Carlsberg City District will include Michelin- into the then-new brewery and today the Michelin-starred starred restaurants, galleries and much company is a global powerhouse with more across its 25 public squares and annual sales of $10 billion. restaurants, galleries and piazzas. Yet for all the scrupulous planning and modernity, one of the most arresting The red brick bones of the original much more across its and nostalgic sights is the Elephant Tower, brewery are still there, but now they form the old entry gate to the brewery which is the core of Copenhagen’s most exciting 25 public squares still held aloft by life-size pachyderms hewn urban renewal project. Carlsberg City out of granite. District is only 10 minutes from the Danish and piazzas. capital’s city hall and the three-year-old Rene Redzepi’s Noma restaurant is Carlsberg Station is one of the busiest The property is named after Ottilia, the credited with bringing modern Danish connection hubs in the city. The first Scottish wife of Carl Jacobsen, son of fine dining to global attention. But the residents moved in at the same time, but Jacob Jacobsen, the company’s founder, Danes were shaking up the culinary scene by 2024 the 600,000 square metre area who also named the brewery after him. The decades ago. The movie Babette’s Feast will house residential buildings, offices, younger Jacobsen was a noted art collector was the first Danish film to win the Oscar shops restaurants and culture and sport and thistles are the dominant design motif. for Best Foreign Film. It is still showing on facilities. A striking blend of old and new, The redevelopment of the entire Carlsberg SBS and Netflix, and one of its biggest the development company called - yes - City District has a budget of $3 billion and fans is Pope Francis. Way back in the Carlsberg Byen is owned by Carlsberg is a cornerstone of Copenhagen's goal to 1980s, chef Jan Pedersen, of La Cocotte Breweries and three local pension funds. become the world’s first carbon neutral in Copenhagen, was welcoming hordes of city by 2025. international foodie pilgrims with his menu The whiff of hops has long faded and based on the film’s sumptuous food scenes. the brewery's former warehouse facilities The Hotel Ottilia boasts another feature have been transformed into the Hotel to keep environmentalists happy. A As Rick Stein pointed out in his long Ottilia, a 155-room luxury boutique hotel. revolutionary self-disinfecting technology weekend away TV series, even he couldn’t Opened at the beginning of the year, it’s called CleanCoat helps the rooms to clean get a table at Noma because the producers the perfect place to stay for beer and hadn’t booked weeks ahead. Fortunately, there’s plenty of seriously good restaurants 26 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

in Copenhagen if you haven't planned a You will need to do some brisk walking Visit our website and keep visit months ahead. I am a big fan of classic to work off a slice of the house speciality, up to date with all our latest Northern European dishes cooked really sportskagen (sportscake), a high calorie wine info, news, competitions, well without the need to add contemporary mix of crushed nougat in whipped cream touches. That's what’s on offer at Barr, on a macaroon base tastings and events. located in the former Noma premises on Become a subscriber to enter the waterfront. Perfectly cooked waffles, It comes as a surprise to many visitors that frikadeller meatballs and crumbed veal Geranium - not Noma - is Copenhagen’s into our exciting regular can be washed down with first-rate beers first and only Michelin three-star restaurant. competitions. and aquavits. Rick Stein did manage to get in here to film for his long weekend series and chat with Follow us and keep up to Noma isn't the only restaurant in chef Rasmus Kofoed. The cameras focused date with all our latest Copenhagen with two Michelin stars, lovingly on the razor clams, salted white wine info, tastings and AOC also has two twinklers. Situated in salmon, dill pebbles with frozen dill juice a sparkling white basement matched by and fresh cream with horseradish dished up events on facebook, twitter snowy tablecloths, chef Soren Selin offers to the wandering TV host, which must have and instagram. the sort of tweezer-perfect fine dining sparked thousands to make a booking. Nordic haute cuisine has become famous Winestate Magazine for. Yes, it's fussy but well worth the prices. Other Noma alums besides Beau Clugston @WinestateEd have set up shop all over town, as you would Like compatriot, Crown Princess Mary, expect. In the edgy Vesterbro district, once www.winestate.com.au Aussie chef Beau Clugston has settled a working class area and red light district, into Danish life following a seven-year stint which has reinvented itself as one of Lonely at Noma. His Iluka restaurant, secreted Planet’s top 10 coolest neighbourhoods behind a sleek graphite-coloured door, is around the world, Rosio Sanchez offers one of the Danish capital’s best seafood her take on Mexican cuisine if you need a fine dining restaurants. The oysters here bit of heat on the plate. Kristian Baumann are amazing and so is the sea urchin from runs the ranges at 108, another former the Faroe islands served raw in the shell, Noma location. Born in South Korea, he was accompanied by an unsalted buttered slice adopted by Danish parents when he was of grilled sourdough bread. a baby and is totally global in outlook. Like his mentor, Rene Redzepi, he has made the I could live for a week on smorrebrod, World’s 50 Best Restaurants list and has the justly famous Danish open-faced cooked in guest spots overseas. The prices sandwiches. The gastro temple of the art at 108 aren’t as stratospheric as Noma but is Aamann's 1921, a bright, airy space with you also have to book weeks ahead. contemporary chandeliers which dishes up exquisite traditional and modern gourmet versions. Conditori La Glace, Denmark's oldest cake and pastry shop, was founded in 1870. Pink and green walls and the lavish use of brass seal the back-in-time feel. July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 27

THOSE IN THE KNOWE CHOOSE CRAIGIE 28 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

WINSOR DOBBIN THE East Coast is one of Tasmania’s ago. The property includes a circa 1842 of grapes. He sold the vineyard in 2009. newest wine routes and also one of its sandstone and bluestone homestead, A subsequent owner left the vineyards most successful. as well as the pioneering vineyard, while unattended in 2011 and 2012, giving the Travers family has taken a long-term the Travers family lots of work to bring The region is home to leading Tasmanian lease on a local farmer’s vineyard less things back up to scratch after they took producers, including Devil’s Corner, than 2km away, while also busily planning over in 2013. Craigie Knowe was one Milton, Freycinet Vineyard, Gala Estate for a 6ha expansion behind its current of several properties originally farmed and Spring Vale, with the East Coast’s estate vineyard site. by the pioneering Amos family, which mild climate having proved ideal for accumulated significant holdings in the growing cool-climate wines. Glenn and Sandy Travers purchased the Cranbrook area. The homestead was winery in 2013 after coming to Tasmania built by James Amos (1804-1864), and Playing a key role in that recent regional on a holiday and being entranced by the it sits on the highest point of the Swan success is the historic Craigie Knowe possibilities of the area. Valley floor on a craggy knoll that in property north of the seaside town of Gaelic was termed Craigie Knowe. Swansea, that now produces a range of They have given the historic property a wines with a reputation for both quality complete makeover, including planting “We, along with our son Alex, have and value. new vines and converting the former worked hard to bring the vineyard winery into a rustic tasting facility with back to health and vitality,” says Glenn It is just over 40 years since the first vines comfortable al fresco seating where Travers. The grapes planted include were planted on and around the site of the guests are encouraged to linger. pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet original Cranbrook cricket pitch - the first franc, merlot, petit verdot, riesling, pinot vineyard on the East Coast. Craigie Knowe Vineyard was first gris and chardonnay. A pinot noir rosé established in 1979 by then Hobart Today there is an impressive range and dentist John Austwick, who planted 5ha a rustic cellar door that opened two years July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 29

They have given the historic property a complete makeover, including planting new vines and converting the former winery into a rustic tasting facility with comfortable al fresco seating where guests are encouraged to linger. features on several of Tasmania’s top “We still grow the original varieties John TripAdvisor and the beautiful scenery wine lists. planted and have recently taken on a makes Craigie Knowe a popular venue long-term lease of a small vineyard fewer for weddings. Vineyard tours can also be The Travers are enjoying their wine than 2km away.” arranged with prior notice. challenge as a family. “We are just your average couple who, like most people, The family’s daughter, Katie, also recently For anyone wishing to stay for a night or love to drink wine and love a challenge,” moved on to the property with her two two in bucolic surroundings, the country they say. “When we purchased Craigie we dogs and two horses. style of Belmont Homestead is just five definitely got both. minutes down the road. Visitors are invited to stay for an extended “Once purchased we just had to make it chat in the beautiful, relaxed setting just The Craigie Knowe cellar door is open work, so it was heads down on a vertical metres from the vines and enjoy a platter every day except Wednesday 10am-4pm learning curve for some time. Since then, of local produce, or a hand-crafted in summer and Friday-Monday 10am-4pm our son has joined us, and having started chocolate and wine matching. Taste one in the cooler months. Craigie Knowe, 80 a viticulture degree he is now the source of Tasmania’s few cabernet sauvignons at Glen Gala Rd, Cranbrook; phone 0499 901 of so much information; with knowledge the cellar door. The cellar door experience 109 or visit www.craigieknowe.com.au. comes even better wines. gets a perfect “five” from visitors on 30 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 31

Finders Keepers A chance discovery lead a sydney-based family to take over and redevelop Adelaide hills winery Mt Bera. 32 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

Previous page: View from Mt Bera hilltops. Above Left: The Horner family with Lily, Katrina, Maya, Greg and Kali from left to right. Above right: Looking across the Mt Bera amphitheatre with Pinot to top and Merlot vines. NIGEL HOPKINS THE Sampson Flat bushfire in 2015 could near Katrina’s parents (in South Australia) appeared to be just a bonus included in easily have ended the dreams of Greg and for a year and give the kids a different the purchase: “It was uncharted territory Katrina Horner, who’d bought their 75ha Mt experience, a strange thing happened. for us. We loved wine but that was as far Bera property just seven years previously as it went,” Greg says. “Although Katrina’s and had managed only six vintages before “We weren’t looking to buy, but a friend grandfather had been the cellar manager they were almost completely burnt out. sent us a link to Mt Bera for sale and at Seppeltsfield, no one in our families had Katrina’s instant response was: ‘I know owned vineyards or wineries.” “We cut 25,000 vines back to ground where that is - every time I take the kids level,” Greg says, along with the task of to soccer from Paracombe to Birdwood I With the help of consultants, lots of books replacing posts and kilometres of wire and want to drive up that driveway’. Needless and courses, as well as help from other dripper lines. to say, by the time we got to the top wineries, they learnt fast. Grapes initially of the 1km driveway, we had bought were sold to Penfolds and wine was made There were just enough vines left it. We instantly fell in love with the old at Jeanneret in the Clare Valley, due to an untouched by the fire for a small vintage homestead, the rugged hills and massive existing relationship with the previous owner. in 2016, but the restoration process is now red gums - the remoteness yet closeness From 2012 to 2014 Mt Bera wine was made complete, with Mt Bera’s 15ha of vineyards, to the centre of Adelaide.” at Kersbrook Hill, the 2015 vintage didn’t near Gumeracha in the northern part of exist, and from 2016 it’s been made by Paul the Adelaide Hills wine region, now pretty Greg, an aeronautical engineer, Drogemuller and his team at Paracombe. much back in full production. comfortably admits he knew nothing about growing grapes or winemaking “We moved the winemaking to Kersbrook The Mt Bera property dates back to 1851 at the time, and he’s been on a steep in 2012 where the whole family (the Horners when its steep slopes spreading over and very successful learning curve ever have four children) became heavily involved three hills and valleys were developed as since, even though he continues to run in the winemaking process,” Greg says. commercial orchards. Vineyards replaced his substantial aeronautical engineering “It meant daily excursions to hand plunge the orchards in the late 1990s and although software business based in Sydney. the open fermenters, record temperatures, well established by the time the Horners baume and pH levels, and most importantly bought the place, much replanting and “Both Katrina and my parents were tasting every fermenter every day and many additions have been made since. farmers,” he says, “whose sole income discovering how much variation there could was primary production and, inevitably, be from each small fermenter. “We didn’t find Mt Bera - it found us,” they faced financial issues. It made me Greg says. “Some people plan what they believe you have to value add, and that’s “Our focus had always been to produce want to do, but for us the unplanned events what I’m doing both with the vineyard and estate grown, single vineyard, natural always seem to work out the best. through engineering.” wines that fully expressed the terroir - the soil, the climate, the topography and “After moving from Sydney whilst Initially, the vineyard and wine label renovating our house and deciding to be July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 33

We didn’t find Mt Bera - it found us. Some people plan what they want to do, but for us the unplanned events always seem to work out the best. 34 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

the biodiversity of our site - and how we “Since purchasing Mt Bera we have managed it was very important to assist adjusted varieties to suit the changes nature rather than fight against it.” in topography,” Greg says. “We grafted tempranillo and shiraz on to some merlot, The advantage of having a wide variety pulled out cabernet sauvignon grapes of micro-climates in the hills and valleys where they struggled to ripen - from a of the property has enabled Greg to have high valley with extremely cool nights - just an extraordinary range of grape varieties perfect for planting gruner veltliner which in such a small area, including pinot loves the large diurnal temperature variation. noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, shiraz, zweigelt, blaufrankisch and tempranillo for “On top of the vineyard changes we its red wines, and pinot gris, gruner veltliner have added a new vineyard in a fantastic and sauvignon blanc for its white wines. natural amphitheatre between the other two vineyards. Here we planted two more These are spread over three main clones of pinot noir, some zweigelt and vineyards, with a small vineyard adjacent blaufrankisch to go with our gruner veltliner, to the cellar door called the Pilot Block, while on the warmest slope we planted one of the earliest vineyards in the Adelaide more shiraz on their own roots. We have Hills planted by Caj and Genny Amadio, the also grafted another clone of pinot noir in success of which led to them planting much one area to provide more complexity. more extensively and establishing the Chain of Ponds label. “We use organic and biodynamic practices, and although not certified we Two years ago the Horners bought both are extremely committed. Everything we vineyard and former cellar door from the do is aimed at minimising any intervention Amadios, which they’ve now extensively and working with nature to produce the refurbished and landscaped to create the most complex, balanced wines possible.” Mt Bera cellar door and restaurant, with a nearby historic cottage now transformed The little vineyard near the cellar door into an elegant B&B. Two massive stone has been renamed the Dreamcatcher pillars now front the main road, providing Vineyard, in honour of the Amadio’s a signature entrance statement. dream when they planted in 1985 and subsequently passed on to Greg and It’s been a lot of hard work, especially Katrina. It’s been a dream that no bushfire with Greg continuing his other role as has been able to erase. managing director of his aeronautical software business, which at least has Left: Rear view to top of amphitheatre shiraz block. provided financial stability despite the Below: Mt Bera cellar door. bushfire disaster. July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 35

With a history dating back more than 170 years, Glen Ewin Estate is back in business with a growing involvement in the spirit and wine industries. 36 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

NURTURING SPIRITS O F T H E PA S T NIGEL HOPKINS FOR many people who’ve heard of Glen 1843. He planted grapes (frontignac, as a fig producer in 1994 and has nearly Ewin Estate, their immediate impressions black hambro and roussillon) among the 12,000 fig trees planted along terraces would be of wedding receptions and figs, first vineyards in South Australia, but tore constructed when Glen Ewin’s first orchards and until a few years ago that would have them out and smashed his wine vats after were planted more than 150 years ago. He been pretty much correct. But no longer. discovering one of his workers drunk, quickly built a national market for its glacé victim of the “devil’s work”. and chocolate-coated figs, and for a time Glen Ewin is still, of course, one of sold fresh figs to supermarkets, but figs, South Australia’s most popular wedding He replaced them with more god-fearing being very soft skinned and having a short destinations and is well set up not only with fruit trees, sending fresh fruit into the shelf life, are too difficult to pack and get to extraordinary surroundings of manicured Adelaide market, but as production grew market in a pristine state. landscaping, vast and mysterious looking McEwin turned to using excess fruit to old buildings from its former life as a jam make jam. His plantings included a large fig Wauchope’s fast evolving business plan factory, a modern cellar door and function orchard from which it’s believed he made then moved to pick-your-own figs, bringing area called The Gatehouse, and a purpose his first jam in 1862, so there’s symmetry in a whole new stream of customers with built reception venue built around the Willa Wauchope following in his footsteps Mediterranean and Middle Eastern origins 100-year-old pulp shed, where there’s 150 years later. to Glen Ewin, while he pondered what also a highly competent chef in charge to do with the leftover fig syrup from his of the kitchen. Glen Ewin thrived and built a reputation value-added products. for some of the best jams in Australia, But under the direction of Willa Wauchope, employing up to 100 workers and producing The answer was to create a unique range whose parents Bill and Wendy Wauchope more than 100 tonnes of jam annually. of fig gin, using base spirit from Adelaide bought the historic property in 1991, Management issues saw the company Hills distillery Applewood, breaking it down Glen Ewin has grown into a substantial, falter and die in the late-1980s, the land was from 42 per cent alcohol to 29 per cent multi-faceted business with an increasing sub-divided, the Glen Ewin name was sold with the addition of fig syrup. The result involvement in the wine and spirit industry. off to IXL, and the historic buildings were left is a surprising light, not so sweet gin that to rot until Willa Wauchope’s parents bought changes in character depending on how it’s The estate, now reduced to around the property and began its restoration. drunk - neat on the rocks, with a squeeze of 30ha of which 13ha is planted with figs, lime or mixed with tonic as a longer drink. was first settled by George McEwin in Willa Wauchope established Willabrand Opposite page from left to right top to bottom: Large open spaces at Glen Ewin Estate, flowering wysteria at Glen Ewin Estate, historic old buildings built into the hillside, wine storage bins, Gatehouse cellar door exterior, Gatehouse venue overlooking the beautiful lake. July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 37

Page 38 from left to right top to bottom: Stunning weddings held at Glen Ewin Estate, interior of wedding reception venue, historic building built into the hillside, spectacular Autumn vines around the property. Opposite page: Glen Ewin grounds valley view of fig orchards, Willa Wauchope by the distillery, fig gin bottle and fig cocktail. 38 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

Gin has now been followed by a fig aperitif with 17 per cent alcohol content, a blend of fig syrup with vodka and fig leaf tea, which cuts back the sweetness and adds a longer finish. It met with immediate market acceptance plans to expand the range with chardonnay, been built using jarrah sourced from Port nationally and Wauchope is now pinot gris and pinot noir. Adelaide wool stores, with locking systems contemplating an export market: “It took off devised by a local locksmith. much more rapidly than I’d imagined,” he Glen Ewin also acts as a cellar door for says. “It is a significantly different product other small Hills producers, some of whom Wauchope says for individual customers and clearly has broad appeal.” lack their own cellar door, including CRFT who might have just a few cases they Wines, Mt Bera, Vinteloper, Rusty Bike and want stored it’s $3.50 a month per case, The gin has now been followed by a fig Jericho Wines: “We are always looking to with a minimum of $16 a month, but larger aperitif with 17 per cent alcohol content, a promote new and interesting wines from the customers, often winemakers, use the blend of fig syrup with vodka and fig leaf Hill’s region, supporting local winemakers facility to store barrels and pallets. There tea, which cuts back the sweetness and as much as we can.” are two temperature controlled areas, at adds a longer finish. Wauchope is now 16C, and uncontrolled areas where the thinking about producing fig vodka and fig Wauchope says he is already sizing up temperature stays around 20C. rum, and plans to restore two substantial sections of the estate to plant his own vines stills he’s bought - of 2000 and 3000 litre in what would be, quite literally, a return to “We have some very serious collectors capacity - so he can make his own base Glen Ewin’s roots. who trust us to keep their wine safe and at spirit from a yet to be produced fig wine, a stable temperature, but if they want to sell preferably using solar power. “Glen Ewin has great potential for grapes,” their wine we can help connect them with he says. “ We have the land and we have a database and our cellar door.” Of more immediate interest are three the history, but we have to size up the conventional grape wines Glen Ewin is relative potential of grapes versus figs.” More than 150 years on, Glen Ewin producing under The Gatehouse label. founder George McEwin would no doubt These are a shiraz, sauvignon blanc and In the meantime another significant be delighted by the multiple ways his sparkling currently sourced and made for business for Glen Ewin is secure, heritage is now being put to work - though Glen Ewin by other Hills winemakers, with temperature controlled wine storage in the what he’d make of fig gin - the “devil’s vast stone and concrete buildings built into work” is hard to say. surrounding hillsides. Individual bays have July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 39

Partner with at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair 2019 Winestate would like to present an opportunity to participate in one of Asia’s biggest wine shows – the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair 2019. With a shared display organised by Winestate Magazine - Australia and New Zealand’s leading private international wine marketing service. Doing Business in China, Macau Key Points and Hong Kong EVENT DATES – 7- 9 November, 2019 Since the removal of all duty-related customs and administrative LOCATION - Hong Kong Convention Centre controls in February 2008, the wine industry in Hong Kong has rapidly expanded, and infrastructure and business has developed Bookings to support the industry. To secure your spot please email or fax your application request Imports of wine into this market have grown rapidly to support to [email protected] without delay. We will then assess market demand. In 2007, imports were HK$1.6 billion, compared applications received (reserving the right to be selective to HK$8.4 billion last year. as to those accepted to attend). If accepted, we will advise confirmation of your participation. The Hong Kong Trade Development Council forecasts a growth rate of 7.8% per annum in terms of value for 2014 to 2019, so it Peter Simic shows no sign of slowing down. Chief Executive Officer & Publisher Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd The exhibition will play host to wineries from around the world P: +61 8 8357 9277 and visitors include distributors of food and beverages, retail, E: [email protected] trade, sommeliers, media and consumers. W: www.winestate.com.au With over 7 million people in Hong Kong and 1.3 billion on the mainland, the potential market size is vast. 40 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

EXPRESSIONS OF INTEREST OPEN NOW Why join with Winestate at our APPLICATION FORM international trade shows Name of Winery “Domaine Asmara had the opportunity to attend HK International ABN or ACN Wine & Spirits Fair with Winestate. Many business leads were Wine brand to be promoted also generated through Winestate referrals. An event not to be missed”. Andreas Greiving Proprietor www.domaineasmara.com “Zitta Wines has attended wine shows internationally including Contact Person Vinitaly with Winestate – we found the event to be very rewarding Contact Email and a great investment in increasing our overseas exports through Mobile Phone new engaged overseas distributors for our wines in Europe. Do you have a HK or China agent? Winestate organization before and during the event was very professional which made it easy for us and happy to say that PLEASE SIGN AND RETURN TO FAX 08 8357 9212 or [email protected] sales have steadily increase”. Angelo De Fazio Signed Title Proprietor Name Zitta Wines Barossa Valley “Wines by Geoff Hardy has attended a number of wine shows over a number of years with Winestate Magazine. The shows we’ve done have been well attended with good sales results achieved as a direct result of our participation.” Richard Dolan General Manager Wines by Geoff Hardy “We have found it very beneficial for our business to attend Date international wine trade shows, such as the Hong Kong Wine 81 KING WILLIAM ROAD, UNLEY SA 5061 Tel: 08 83579277 Fax: 08 83579212 ABN: 56 088 226 411 Trade Fair, with the Winestate team.” Web: www.winestate.com.au Email: [email protected] Eric Semmler Proprietor 919 Wines South Australia Disclaimer: The Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair is organised by the Hong Kong Trade & Development Council (HKTDC). Full details regarding the Trade Fair can be seen at www.hktdc.org Like all trade shows no guarantee of securing or even meeting the right buyer or distributor is given or implied. Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd ABN 56 088 226 411 does not accept any liability to any person or persons claiming they have been misled or deceived by any material published herein. Participants are advised to ensure they have full travel insurance, as well as insurance to cover damage and/or loss to stock if damaged or lost in shipment. Also participants are referred to ensure they understand and acknowledge all points and conditions available at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Trade Fair. Website http://www.hktdc.com/fair/hkwinefair-en July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 41

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS ONE of Hong Kong’s iconic landmarks, clean eating exercise and they’ll theatrically We’re back to House 1881 and having a Hullett House, has had a much needed go on about its mac ’n’ cheese and nose around the old stable block because facelift and has now unveiled itself as infamous Happy Hour where drinks kick off in its place is Stable Steak House, itself House 1881 with an eager new assortment at $HK1. Well, it’s gone, but like a phoenix a revamp from the Stables Grill. A nice of dining options to lure punters who wish rising from the ashes, it has transformed touch is that they’ve kept the original to dine in stately surrounds. The flagship into Fini’s, sporting a new look and a new wooden stable doors which open out is Fortune Villa which delivers high-end menu which appears to have been plucked onto the terrace for those brave enough and fabulous dim sum in a dignified, white from a smattering of pizzerias around New to sit outside in a Hong Kong summer linen tablecloth setting - the sort you’d York and New Jersey. (cooling breezes in the form of fans will bring prospective in-laws to. be provided, however). Steak lovers need There’s still the comforting homemade only apply as this is principally what it The gastronomy team is led by chef KK pastas and the unbeatable mac ’n’ cheese, offers - prime cuts from around the world, Ngai, who was previously the Chinese but the experience is enhanced by the with its “udderly wonderful” marbled A5 executive chef at Hyatt Regency Hong addition of New York-style pies, fancy Japanese wagyu beef as a highlight. Kong, Sha Tin and Marco Polo Wuhan, Italian cocktails and an excellent and Seasonings are taken seriously, too, with and decided to take the menu back to affordable wine list available by the carafe. a choice of 40 different salts. a simpler time in Chinese cuisine with Despite being in bang in the heart of Wan his dishes made with high quality, locally Chai, Fini’s manages to pull off authentic Before (and perhaps after) dinner, repair sourced ingredients. 1950s Italian, with a proper open-flame to the Stable Bar which hosts among copper dome oven and a plethora of jaunty others, the largest gin collection this Culinary gems include pan-fried turnip neon signs which transport you away from side of Hong Kong as well as a full list of cake, baked abalone puff with diced the noisy markets and flashy interior design classic cocktails - the Espresso Martini chicken, Iberico pork fillet with honey shops of its neighbourhood. And for those certainly takes some beating. Stable Steak sauce and drunken foie gras cooked in wanting to know, the Happy Hour is back, House, G/F, House 1881, 1881 Heritage, Chinese wine. too, every weekday 5-7pm. Fini’s, 69 Stone 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong; Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, Hong Kong; phone phone +852 3988 0288. Make sure you save room for the +852 2387 6338. painstakingly made desserts such as sweetened almond cream with egg white and yin-yang sesame rolls - the in-laws will definitely be impressed. Fortune Villa, G/F, House 1881 Main Building, 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong; phone +852 3988 0107. Mention Stone Nullah Tavern to anyone who hasn’t been on some self-induced Top: Fortune House restaurant. Left: Steak from Stable Steak House restaurant. Above right: Fini's Italian American restaurant. 42 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

DRAGON GOWN is a new brand under Dragon King Group. Compared with Dragon King Restaurant, Dragon Gown attaches greater importance to food appearance and dining environment. Like emperor’s gown, it must have splendid appearance and emphasizes comfort and health. To be sure, it is our foremost mission to assure food quality and quantity. Dragon Gown aims to receive local and overseas business guests. In internal design, Dragon Gown offers a diversity of dining table matching, simple and fashionable to meet diversified needs of reception and banquet. In dish design, we choose freshest food materials in combination with our conception of innovation and special style to present new generation Cantonese food. Take Poached Rice with Lobster Soup for example. We make Lobster Soup and serve it with Steamed Rice and Deep-fried Rice to create an irresistible flavor. Deep-fried Rice is crisp and refreshing and gives out a rustling sound when meeting hot Soup. Address: Shop Nos. 2C and 2D, 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Telephone no.: 852 – 2180 6533 Working hours: Monday to Saturday 11:00am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm Sunday and Public Holidays 10:00am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm DRAGON SEAL is located on F101 of International Commerce Centre (ICC) in West Kowloon. As the third highest building in the world. For any type of activities or banquets, we can provide most suitable venue for you. Enjoying the charming seaview of Victoria Harbor, the dining hall serves as the best place for holding various types of ceremonies and celebrating unforgettable days. In addition, Dragon Seal is a preferred choice for enterprise cocktail party, anniversary celebration and private parties. In addition to pursuit for delicious diet taste, Dragon Seal is also particular in promoting diet culture of sound, color and art. Our group CEO Mr. Wong Wing Chee was born in a chef family. In his childhood, he was influenced by what he constantly saw and heard. Constant research of cuisine nurtured his unique and innovative thinking. In his opinion, food quality is very important and dining environment is also most important. He attaches great importance to man-to-man interaction and restaurant decoration. He pays special attention to comfortable seats, lighting and distribution as well as the interaction of tableware and tabletop, including the fresh flower on the dining table. Therefore, you will never feel disappointed when dining in Dragon Seal. Address: Shop C, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Telephone no.: 852 – 2568 9886 Working hours: Monday to Sunday 11:30am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 43

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL WHEN chef/restaurateur Paul McGivern for something more full bodied - a 2014 retail and dining. It hasn’t all been sunny opens a venue Brisbane diners expect Chateau Grand Tayac from Margaux is days for Aria and it’s neighbours all delicious simplicity on their plates. They a classic example as is the 2016 Nick of whom were heavily affected by the also expect red-hot service, some of the O’Leary Bolaro Shiraz from the Canberra catastrophic floods that ravaged much of best in town, and an inspired wine list with region and closer to home, 2016 Barambah the city in 2011 but all managed to bounce a strong leaning towards Burgundian-style Rack Dried Semillon, South Burnett in back within months. wines from both the old and new world. Queensland. Racecourse Rd in the leafy suburb He sifts through collections as carefully Rounding out the total package of what of Ascot is the area’s “eat street,” with as he chooses his fish, cuts of meat and a great Australian bistro should look like is cafes and restaurants dotted in between produce, much of which is organic and service and this is delivered with finesse retail shops offering plenty in the way of comes to him still bearing nuggets of the and great prowess by McGivern’s partner, breakfast, lunch and dinner, but late night northern New South Wales earth, from Bailey Dewes. The pair has worked snacks and nightcaps are a little thin on the which it was recently exhumed. together for years opening several of their ground. The Stables Craft Bar & Kitchen own successful venues and the experience underwent an ownership change in 2018 McGivern’s latest venture is Corella, and love of the product is evident in every and the new owners reworked the venue which is the Aboriginal word for water aspect of the experience. Shop 2, the into a night-time spot that the suburb really hole, something that used to unite the local Drapery, 67 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba; needed. Mitchell Dunning, who recently people in Woolloongabba pre-settlement. phone (07) 3189 4406. opened Ballistic Beer Co’s West End Here McGivern is drawing on his indigenous Alehouse and Kitchen, has been recruited heritage to give depth and meaning to both Staying in Woolloongabba and long-time to oversee the creation of Unwined Bar & the venue and the part he plays within it. French stalwart C’est Bon has had a major Kitchen, a bar with a heavy focus on wine makeover. Co-owners Celine Damou and and a casual menu of mainly shared plates. He sold The Wolfe (named after the wolf in Peter Roelfes extended the restaurant Cosy with a dark, broody interior, head the coat of arms of the famous Burgundian to include a wine bar last year and now chef Bisnu Poudel is using his Nepalese village of Morey-Saint-Denis where he there’s a cellar and private dining space, heritage to create a menu of spicy and spent several vintages) in East Brisbane as well as a covered garden dining area moreish shareable snacks. House-made recently and still operates La Lune, a and rooftop terrace. Momo, Nepalese dumplings with spicy pocket-sized wine bar in the thriving food dipping sauce, gingery karaage chicken, metropolis of Fish Lane, South Brisbane. And the wine bar is set to take on a life lentil dahl served with warm flatbread and of it’s own with its own moniker - Le Bon a slow-cooked goat curry all come from McGivern’s vision for Corella is to create a Bar - which will serve French and Australian Poudel’s repertoire, but there’s also share place to gather and enjoy “refined service, classics for breakfast, lunch and dinner. plates and cheese boards for wine-friendly simple and interesting food at a great The rooftop terrace is now a relaxed grazing. 1/121 Racecourse Rd, Ascot; price point.” And with beautiful dishes like outdoor lounge and casual dining space phone 0422 367 751. heirloom tomatoes with almond curd and where diners can enjoy the view as well as sorrel granita ($17) and heartier main course the clipped bar menu. 609/611 Stanley St, Top: Exterior of Corella restaurant. offerings such as John Dory, saffron sauce, Woolloongabba; phone (07) 3891 2008. Left: Food from Corella restaurant. witlof and sea greens ($35) he is delivering Bottom: Food from Corella restaurant. on both price, quality and originality, albeit Aria Brisbane, Matt Moran’s northern fine in a seriously unpretentious way. diner has closed after 10 years in a plum position on the Brisbane River in the heart of McGivern’s love of Burgundy is abundantly the CBD. Citing end of lease as the reason clear on the wine list, with fine examples of for the shock closure, the trend, that has its varying styles coming not only from become a march, away from formal and fine France but Margaret River, Geelong and dining restaurants globally (and no more so Central Otago. Grouped by weight there’s than in the Sunshine State) has surely also also a tasty little section for those looking played a part in the venues demise. The Eagle Street Pier, which is also home to Sake Restaurant, Pony Dining, Cha Cha Char and Il Centro, is set for redevelopment by owner Dexus Group and will eventually boast two towers, and a large public space with lots of riverfront 44 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 45

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING WHEN I first tried to make a dinner lamb shoulder, sweet and sour eggplant and The Punjabi gosht curry of goat is the go-to reservation at Eliza Food & Wine soon rosemary. We divided our tastes between choice for non-vegetarians. Given the affinity after it opened, the only spots available very upscale surf and turf mains - mulloway, of Indian food with beer, the 100-strong were children’s meal times - 5.30pm to enoki mushrooms, broccolini, red wine and wine list is surprisingly good with top class 6.30pm. Many of the regulars at Jeremy anchovy, and roast pork belly, wilted baby limited editions from small producers Bentley’s former one-hatted restaurant, gem lettuce and smoked almond cream. alongside moderately priced labels. The The Devonshire, had clearly followed truly creamy kulfi ice cream wraps up an their favourite chef from Surry Hills to The uniting theme of all dishes, presided intense experience on every level - from the Darlinghurst. over by Bentley and head chef Shaz Akbar, music through the fit-out to the food. Don’t is precision and detail. Prices are moderate for Tell Aunty, 414 Bourke St, Surry Hills; phone Sydneysiders prefer a casual vibe even such talent and execution. The 30-plus wine (02) 9331 5399. in fine dining restaurants these days. list veers towards small producers and natural Australians spend $45 billion a year on wines. While desserts are kept to a minimum There’s a gag going round on the internet dining out and one of the major trends is of two - very berry tea brulee and salted that the best place to meet a lot of women low-end eateries moving upmarket and caramel parfait with chocolate crumble. The is Kmart, not the usual suspect dating sites. high-end ones moving down. Much of the cheese board is a standout whether you order Young women also outnumbered men on the change has been driven by millennials and one, two or three varieties. If you go for only night we visited The Charleston. Maybe the demo was very much in evidence at one make it Holy Goat chevre from central it’s the pastel pink interior redolent of the Eliza’s. Hardly surprising, as Darlinghurst Victoria. Organic and super-creamy. Eliza waterfront homes of South Carolina dreamed is the number-one suburb nation-wide for Food & Wine, 247 Victoria St, Darlinghurst; up by designer Matt Woods (The Rooftop, the highest concentration of Gen Y and phone (02) 9194 5002. Beccafico). Or perhaps chef Ellena Kim Gen X inhabitants. knows what women want. Former fans of Colin Fassnidge’s Fourteen The decor appeals to the younger, smart- are in for a culture and colour shock when It comes as no surprise that cocktails casual crowd, too. Salmon-pink walls, they walk into Don’t Tell Aunty - the new are big from The Charleston Sling to teal blue tiles and a long marble counter tenants of the inner city warehouse space. Granny’s Special Sweet Tea. Kim’s time with high stools, in addition to burnished The walls are pink, Bollywood movies are at The Morrison and Uccello shows in the timber tables. Eliza’s is co-owned by playing on the screens and peacock blue predominance of seafood dishes, from the Bentley and Simon Rabbitt, chief business banquettes and a self-serve beer fridge signature lobster roll - a pricey $42 - through officer of Rugby Australia. The restaurant are just as attention-grabbing. Anyone the beetroot salmon gravlax, Clarence River is named after the wife of early 19th looking for standard Indian fare should baby octopus and king prawns with smoked century governor, Sir Ralph Darling, as is head elsewhere. chorizo and herb garlic butter. Darlinghurst itself. The only other history you need to know is that Bentley earned Jessi Singh, who has opened similar Meat lovers are well catered for with the his stripes in Mayfair’s Michelin-starred The “unauthentic” Indian restaurants in very moreish barbecue beef short rib - a Square in London and continued to hone Melbourne and the US, is the guiding force. 450g chunk of grass-fed New Zealand beef his French-style skills at Matthew Kemp’s Don’t Tell Aunty refers to the colloquial on the bone with braised savoy cabbage, Balzac restaurant in Randwick. expression Indian children are chided chimichurri and herb breadcrumbs. The with when they are naughty. Bring on Charleston burger - a 180g rosedale ruby You can eat a little or a lot at Eliza. the misbehaving if the uni biryani is the beef pattie, maple syrup bacon, baby cos, After work drop-ins can choose from an outcome - a fragrant rice dish impregnated melted cheese, aioli, house pickles on a edited list of small bites, including salt fish with dates, shallots and ginger and topped brioche bun and served with fries - keeps brandade, pickled sardine, brioche and with salmon roe and sea urchin meat. It’s hunger pangs at bay for hours, too. As you dill and prawn spring rolls flavoured with not always available but don’t miss this would expect in Glebe, a lot of bottlings saffron. The local Gen X set tended to go standout dish if it is. on the wine list are identified as vegan or for something more substantial during our biodynamic. The Charleston, 199 Glebe visit and a clear favourite was the 12-hour The dish that has garnered the most Point Rd, Glebe; phone (02) 9660 5717. media attention is the butter chicken. Made without ghee or oil, it retains the Above: Colonel Tso's cauliflower from Don't Tell rich mouthfeel the original version is noted Aunty restaurant. for, thanks to the adept use of fenugreek. Left: Uni Biryani from Don't Tell Aunty restaurant. The other “as if by magic” dish is Colonel Tso’s cauliflower, described as an Indo- Chinese style cauliflower with tomato and chilli sauce. The florets are deep-fried to crackling crispiness and teamed with a Manchurian hot sauce. A combo that tastes very like sweet and sour pork for some reason but much better. 46 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN CHEF Paul Cooper has returned home to 38 Chairs and for a long time Paragon and-solid-brunch market of inner-city Victoria and bought Bianchet Winery in the Cafe, is a buzz of regional Italian food with South Melbourne, James offers a broader Yarra Valley, operating two venues within one dish from each region on the menu. menu into lunch, dinner and supper - with the space, to accommodate casual and a strong Japanese influence - togarashi more formal dining rooms. Born in Bologna, Italy, Domenico started corn sits alongside crystal clear dashi working in kitchens when he was 13. broth and meaty eggplant tempura. And a Cooper, who moved to Sydney in 2012 to He arrived in Australia in 2009 to travel contemporary edge is added in dishes like open Bishop Sessa in Surry Hills returned and ended up staying, initially working burrata with flatbread, spring onion, ginger home to Melbourne in February 2018. in Sydney. He moved to Melbourne and - a decadent swipe at bread and cheese opened his first restaurant, l’Altro Mondo that’s comforting and sassy in equal parts. The chef and his young family settled in Albert Park in 2013 before moving to A buttery beef rib, sticky with teriyaki is a on the Yarra Valley, specifically Bianchet - Rathdowne St, Carlton North. stand-out in the main courses made more which has some of the oldest vines in the comforting with a side of soba noodles with Yarra Valley - and while, Cooper won’t be The menu at Giro d’Italia highlights the nashi, pickled mushrooms and wakame. making wine (just yet), he has started to diversity of regional Italy. De Marco has renovate and enhance the building, built in designed his menu to bring in dishes from all The prices are reasonable, the service 1993, opening a pizzeria on one side of the over his homeland. Expect arancini (Sicily) or intelligent and the wine list is a treasure. It’s venue and Fable Dining Room on the other. calamari fritti, from Marche, or spaghetti alla inspired by the other kids, literally, on the scoglio, from Campania, and the wine list South Melbourne block - their neighbours “The casual pizzeria is aimed at the locals, is built around Italian and Australian wines. are Prince Wine Store and Cloud Wines - and Fable is a dedicated dining spot; this and they work with guest sommeliers who gives us a couple of different ways to appeal Domenico’s passion for his restaurant is are in some way connected to the area to to a wider audience,” says Cooper. palpable. “To make my life have a sense, collaborate on the wine list. Recently, it was I need to run a restaurant. I say that from Corey Morris (ex Bellota Wine Bar) who put Cooper has thrown much of his focus my heart, Giro d’Italia is not just my job it’s together a small but well-considered list into Fable. The 30-seater offers an eight- my dream, it’s my life,” he says. with all of the wines available to take-home course degustation menu built around a from one of their two neighbours. This is changing theme - hence the dining room’s The dining room is simple and welcoming. definitely a stayer in the South Melbourne name - and it moves with the seasons. His Warm wooden panels dress the walls, landscape. 323 Clarendon St, South plan is for Fable to become a destination bentwood chairs and modern lighting are Melbourne; phone (03) 9690 9285. dining experience for the Yarra Valley designed to enhance De Marco’s relaxed with dishes including spice-crusted pork, and enthusiastic nature. De Marco watches Top left: Green beans and kale, pomegranate almond, corn, beetroot and pork crackling the floor and kitchen, bringing out dishes, ponzu from James Wine Bar, photo Rhiannon Tate. and wood-grilled barramundi with lentils, sharing stories behind the menu and Below: Interior of James Wine Bar. potato dauphine, mussels, lemon and welcoming his customers. 655 Rathdowne vanilla sauce. For the pizzeria, he has St, North Carlton; phone 1 300 398 707. refurbished a wood-fired oven with a simple menu of pizzas - four rosso, four The owners of Wynyard Cafe in South bianco - antipasti, dips and charcuterie Melbourne saw an opportunity where for family-style dining. There is a private others would have seen an empty space. dining room opened in April and Cooper The laneway cafe had been opened for has established a kitchen garden already four years when a “For Lease” sign was loaded with seasonal produce, and he has plastered on an adjoining shop facing the also begun to landscape the larger gardens main drag, Clarendon St. with native Australian plants. 187 Victoria Rd, Chirnside Park; phone 0422 617 522. They took it on and after few months of fitting it out and making a couple of Chef Domenico De Marco opened Giro very large holes between two separate d’Italia on Rathdowne St, Carlton North, addresses to make doorways between, in early 2019 and has been embraced by James was born. It’s wine bar, diner and the local community. “all-day everyday” according to co-owners, couple Kirbie Tate and Dominic Miller. The 40-seater venue, which was formerly While Wynyard satisfies the good-coffee- July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 47

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS HE’S one of Australia’s most celebrated Drinks are all very Italian - and though used solely for functions and weddings. chefs and a pioneer of Australian it may not be on the menu, ask if there’s Now, after a very comprehensive and indigenous cuisine, with his landmark fresh cannoli. Filled with more of that buffalo Adelaide restaurant Orana last year named mozzarella, they’re perfect. Mallozi, 279 elegant fit-out and a relaunch as Henry’s as Australia’s best restaurant. Rundle St, Adelaide. Open Thursday from Table, the once glamorous a la carte 5pm, Friday to Sunday from noon. menu has been revived in less formal but But Jock Zonfrillo is also half Scottish and beautifully designed surroundings, and with half Italian, and those Italian roots are hard Bethany Finn has been a chef to follow considerably less glamour, reflecting more to shake off. So when an opportunity arose ever since she worked at the Adelaide Hilton, contemporary, value-conscious tastes. to open a bar almost next door to Orana and then her own restaurant Urban, and now as its sibling restaurant downstairs, Blackwood, executive chef at the upmarket Mayflower The menu is a contemporary mix of there was no mistaking its ethic identity restaurant in the Mayfair Hotel, where she South-East Asian and Middle Eastern with vivid red, green and white walls and a focuses on classic European cooking. food, drawing on a kitchen populated by lengthy spuntino menu as deliciously Italian staff from China, Thailand, Pakistan, India, as chef Stefano Magrofuoco’s accent. Now she’s added a more casual - though France and Italy, all working under Irish- still very smart - bistro-style diner next born chef Paul Groves. Mallozzi is on two levels - you can sit at a to the downstairs Mayflower restaurant. window street with the kitchen behind you Called The Den, it picks up the glamorous This accounts for its “no rules” menu or at an outside table to enjoy the passing Art Deco styling of the surrounding hotel. with spicy, full-flavoured dishes covering a parade, or head downstairs to a very wide geographical range. There’s smoked stylish, and very Italian looking, bar area. This is where classic European meets pub chicken gyoza alongside slow-cooked favourites, with a menu that hits the sweet pork belly in a sweet, sticky soy/anise broth Plates are small but so are the prices, spot from smart casual dining to discreet with a crisply fried cake of rice noodles, almost everything is under $10, and it’s business lunches. or Korean-style spatchcock with kimchi an invitation to graze - starting with plates pancake next to Coorong mulloway with of salumi or formaggi, including perfect It’s unlikely anyone has ever written an Thai-style green mango and lychee salad. rounds of house-made buffalo ricotta ode to the steak sandwich, but if they did topped with baby basil leaves and olive they’d have to check out the one offered It’s less confusing than it sounds because oil. There’s vitello tonnato, a tangle of pink here, a marvel of sliced steak with onion the dishes themselves are coherent and veal with tuna mayonnaise, toasted tigelle rings and cheese in a plaited brioche bun, well prepared - and it does mean there’s generously filled with mortadella and cream with shoestring fries and a peppercorn something for all tastes, including a cheese, and small bowls of pasta such as sauce boat on the side. signature Balinese dish, bebek betutu, a very simple, very delicious tonnarelli with whole spiced duck marinated overnight and pecorino and black pepper. Lighter dishes include king prawns grilled cooked for four hours in a banana leaf. It will in their shell with fennel, or waygu bresola feed four as an entree or two as a main, and curled up in radicchio leaves, while more needs to be ordered 24 hours in advance. Corn substantial dishes include confit duck Henry’s Table, Ayers House, 288 North Tce, Adel leg with peas and crisp speck in a Dijon Adelaide. Open for dinner Wednesday to wine mustard sauce - and of course that steak Saturday; phone (08) 8224 0666. P. (0 sandwich. Some people might come here E. nw just for the patisserie, which is really very Top left: Fresh ricotta from Malozzi restaurant. good. The Den, Mayfair Hotel, 45 King Top right: Pork belly from Henry's Table. William St, Adelaide. Open for lunch and Left: Steak sandwich from The Den. dinner daily; phone (08) 8210 8888. Above: Restaurant interior of The Den. When Ayers House first opened back in 1973, its restaurant was the height of fancy dining and among the first silver service restaurants in South Australia. Owner Richard McLeod purchased the venue in 1991 with partners, and while they kept the restaurant side of things running for a while, they eventually closed it and for the past two decades Ayers House has been 48 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019

DO IT SOMEWHERE different D OD OIDTOI TS IOTS MOSEMOWEMHWEEHWREHEREER E ddidfifieferferrenentntt Corner of Botanic and Hackney Roads Adelaide SA wineaustralia.com.au P. (08) 8313 3355 E. [email protected] neCroorfnBeCroootrafnnBeircootaafnnBdicoHtaanncdikcHnaeanycdkRHnoeaydcksRnoeaydsRoads laAiddeeSlaAiddeeSlaAide SA eawuisnteraawluiaisn.tceroaamluias.atcruoamlia.acuom.au 08P). (8038P13). (830338153)5833315353355 [email protected]@[email protected] July/August 2019 W I N E S TAT E 49

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 50 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2019