THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE &Champagne Sparkling 124 tasted PIPERS CALLS THE TUNE TASSIE DUO A PERFECT SPARKLING MATCH Pol Roger PERFECTING THE ART OF CHAMPAGNE Rosé151tasted Pierre Gimonnet & Fils A SPARKLING EXAMPLE OF A GROWER CHAMPAGNE New Releases Pinot Noir 224 tasted 130 tasted EYE ON THE PRIZE McArthur Ridge’s sight set on a bright future November/December 2021 Vol 44 Issue 6 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Rosé • Pinot Noir • Best Value Buys Under $20 • New Releases • Champagne & Sparkling Riesling • Sauvignon Blanc & Blends • Pinot Gris/Grigio • Marlborough (NZ)
CELLAR R E S E RV E When perfection is achieved the world takes notice www.grandeurwellington.com.au 201 Blewitt Springs Road, McLaren Flat, South Australia 5171
NO.310 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (02) 7618 2945 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Berlinda Conti Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. phone +61 8 8357 9277 or Copyright 2021 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, on-line www.winestate.com.au translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 3
contents NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 26 34 FEATURES family are still farmers at heart, R E G U L A R S 26 EYE ON THE PRIZE writes Nigel Hopkins but this Successful New Zealand wine exceptional boutique producer is 8 Briefs reaping the rewards for their limited 21 NZ Briefs producer McArthur Ridge, along quantity Blanc de Blancs. 22 European Report with Sally Easton with its global distribution and 24 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley marketing company, Brandhouse, 34 POL ROGER 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King (who also happens to be a majority 40 Grapevine shareholder) has their sights set One of the world's most renowned 44 What’s it Worth? on global expansion writes Emma Champagne houses, Pol Roger has 69 Subscription Form Jenkins, MW. With their award- it's original claim to fame as being 106 Aftertaste winning wines and a firm plan in Sir Winston Churchill's favourite place for future development, the tipple, reports Nigel Hopkins. W I N E TAST I N G S stage looks set for success. However, this sparkler of a brand is also very beloved by the Australian 48 Clare Valley 32 PIERRE GIMONNET & FILS marketplace with the awards to 52 Pinot Noir In true grower champagne style, back it up. 56 Champagne & Sparkling 62 Riesling Didier Gimonnet insists that his 36 PIPERS CALLS THE TUNE 66 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio 70 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends 32 Now under the umbrella of 74 Rosé successful wine company 80 Marlborough, NZ Kreglinger; Pipers Brook, its 84 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases associated budget brand Ninth Island, and New Certan, the tongue in cheek Australian homage to French relatives' Chateau Vieux Certan, are soaring to new heights. Winestate Magazine 92 New Releases and Issue Number 310 Best Value Buys under $20. November/December 2021 36 Cover photograph sonyakamoz For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au 4 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
“The Huntress” Inspired by a childhood spent foraging and hunting while paying respects to matriarchal ties to the land, CAZADORA represents our range of high end Tasmanian varietal wines produced from family estate-grown fruit in the Pipers River region North of Launceston. Variety RRP Riesling $45.00 Chardonnay $45.00 Pinot Noir $45.00 { HIGH END TASMANIAN VARIETAL WINES | Trade and NSW Distributor contact: Distributor contact: russellandsuitorwines Kim O’Hara Bouchon Wines & Spirits russellandsuitor Periscope Management 16 Prospect Street, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 Mob: +61 421 077 344 Tel: +61 07 3854 0407 [email protected] [email protected] Distributor contact: Distributor contact: Claret & Co | Scott Teasdale Unique Wine Solutions | Stephen Nankervis 13 View Street, Subiaco WA 6008 PO Box 106, Port Melbourne Vic 3207 Mob: +61 447 087 998 Mob: +61 414 388 046 [email protected] [email protected]
editorial WHAT A SMORGASBORD of an issue we have for you lined up in this issue! With the Southern Hemisphere Spring well on track it brings about a great many new release white wines and rosés. Although a number of these are great as aged wines, some of which we feature here, generally speaking we also look forward to the fresh and vibrant offerings given to us to evaluate. So, we have the pleasure of getting a look at the following varietal categories; riesling, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris/grigio and rosé. Looking at each category, one at a time, here are my thoughts. With the riesling tasting there is a great each way bet for spicy, drink now vibrant citrus flavours to aged complex dry honeyed beauties. Fortunately, there is now a clarity in winemaking compared with the good old days where you did not know what you were getting with different levels of sweetness. Now almost universally the wines finish dry. An interesting situation here with the sauvignon blanc tasting, with the obvious Kiwi “front rower” sweaty herbaceous styles to the more understated Aussie versions. Like the All Blacks these Kiwis dominate! There is a market for both and our judges are well aware that the styles are different and should be respected as such and they have awarded high ratings to the best of both. Then we come to pinot gris/grigio and if ever there was a varietal for “drinking not thinking” it has to be this one. With some exceptions, this is more of a lunch wine rather than a wine judging trophy wine. As they say, “not that there is anything wrong with that”. It is also the one white varietal where because of its anthocyanins it is acceptable to have a light browning in its colour, whereas it would be unacceptable in other varietals. Rosé - here we go. The number of “rosé revivals” we have seen in the past 40 years is eye watering. So much so we have stopped talking about it. But for one more time, we have always said that Australia (and even New Zealand) has the perfect sun-drenched climate for a wine that makes us blush (pun intended). Well-made rosé wine has the amazing colour spectrum from light pink to light red with salmon colour often in between. It has delightful, whimsical fresh berry flavours that lift Spring and Summer to another level and screams out for conviviality. What used to be seen years’ ago as a “ladies drink” has moved into the mainstream. Even burly men with big hands can be seen with a pale pink glass in front of them at lunch these days. Is the number of rosés out there in the marketplace showing this change? We think so. Now we arrive at sparkling wine which we added to the mix in this issue. Although not strictly a new vintage wine like the previous categories, it is a wine that comes into its own during Spring and Summer. Basically, we have two broad categories; the tank fermented bubbles for early commercial drinking and the more complex bottle aged fermented versions which can be either from one vintage or across a number of blends. Within these there are a number of subcategories (by price or style, such as prosecco, cava, sparkling, moscato, Champagne etc). Of course, the former is cheaper and more accessible, whilst the latter pretty much gives you what you pay for. Here it is interesting to note the quality of French Champagnes, some of which we judged in this issue, with predictable solid results. Pinot Noir, often regarded as the most elusive red wine with its lighter colour and at its finest, ethereal qualities, pinot noir has often been described as “the holy grail”. Many years ago in an editorial I said that many were looking for the great pinot but no one had found it yet. Since then and after many, many tastings I have changed my views and appreciate the elegant complexity of the finest versions. In play are the bigger and broader flavours of the Australian and New Zealand versions to the more austere Burgundians. Each has a role in this variety. One thing Australian winemakers have to watch is blending another variety into the delicate mix. As Wines by Geoff Hardy chief winemaker, Shane Harris, put it, “if you add one percent shiraz to a pinot it’s a shiraz!” For our regional judgings we were pleased to look at the wines of Clare Valley in South Australia and Marlborough in New Zealand. Both are highly rated regions with specific yardstick advantages; riesling for Clare and sauvignon blanc for Marlborough. But don’t forget to check out some great wines that also come out of their other varietal categories. Finally, another stellar line up of New Release wines across the board from all vintages and all regions for your perusal. Also, it is our pleasure to introduce to you and welcome our new WA Grapevine writer, Berlinda Conti, to the team. And on that note, you will notice several missing in this issue (namely Melbourne, Sydney & Queensland) due to the current lockdown situations. Hopefully this will pick back up once restrictions are lifted. Lots to like and lotYsotuorewnjoinye, , our ports. Cheers! Australia Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Major Sponsors and Supporters Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 Peter Simic New Zealand Editor/Publisher Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 7
briefs SPECIAL WINE RELEASE The new property, in Pokolbin, is on the corner of Broke and McDonalds Roads and sits adjacent to the Roche Estate food and SIBLINGS Nick, Angela and Eliza Brown of All Saints wine fame beverage precinct and next to the Hope Estate winery. have released a special wine from their historic Mount Ophir Estate. There are plans for Cedar Mill Hunter Valley to house a 100- The 2019 Mount Ophir Shiraz was released in September with bed hotel, specialist food and beverage outlets, a wine museum, a $500 price tag. An historic Rutherglen landmark, Mount Ophir multiple cellar doors and a 22,000 person concert venue to host Estate was established in 1891. The estate boasts 360-degree events featuring local and international acts touring Australia. views of the surrounding area, including the Murray River Basin and the Snowy Mountains to the east, and offers a winery The vision for the site includes the delivery of a venue that is experience rich in history. also capable of hosting events, conferences and functions, and to attract tourists seeking high-end visitor experiences. This includes Owners of Mount Ophir Estate from 1903, the local growers and operators providing boutique goods and dining Burgoyne family, were prominent London wine experiences inspired by the local agricultural heritage as well as merchants, who developed the property further by winemaking, distilling and brewing. constructing a French provincial tower that was a nod to their heritage, along with a winemaking facility. At Cedar Mill Group general manager Kyle McKendry described this time, the building was the largest state-of-the-art the Pokolbin location as the only remaining premium development wine producing complex in the southern hemisphere, site in the Hunter Valley wine region. and the Burgoyne family envisioned it to become the wine centre of Australia. “It is 105 acres right in the centre of Hunter Valley wine country and had been held by the previous owners for over 30 years,\" Mount Ophir Estate was purchased by siblings McKendry said. \"It was an amazing opportunity. Eliza, Angela and Nick Brown in 2016, who set to work restoring the 140-acre estate to its former glory. “Without doubt, this is a very significant acquisition for the Cedar Mill Group and an exciting step towards our plans to have outdoor The Brown siblings have since transformed the venues coupled with exciting tourism concepts in the best locations estate to offer premium wines, accommodation, in Australia and New Zealand. and winery experiences. They also operate “Our aim is to provide an unparalleled visitor experience in the All Saints Estate and Terrace Restaurant, St heart of the region, offering a gateway for tourists to connect with everything that makes the Hunter Valley a world-class visitor Leonards Vineyard and Thousand Pound destination and event hub.” Wine Bar, all Rutherglen region icons. The new shiraz is available for purchase through registration only at mountophirestate. com.au/shiraz-waitlist. “We are so proud of the wine we have produced,\" Nick Brown says. \"The 2019 Mount Ophir Estate Shiraz demonstrates our commitment to producing high-quality wines and brings together Rutherglen’s regional characteristics in a considered approach towards winemaking.” CONCERT VENUE IN THE HEART OF HUNTER A BREEZY STAY IN THE VINES WINE COUNTRY LOOKING to stay somewhere different in a vineyard setting? PLANS have been unveiled for a $107 million concert and Set on the picturesque Mitchelton Estate with stunning bush and hospitality venue right in the heart of Hunter Valley wine country. Winarch Capital’s newly-formed Cedar Mill Group has acquired vineyard views, you will find five full-sized Airstream RVs that offer a one of the Hunter Valley wine region’s premium development sites comfortable stay for guests all year-round. The Mitchelton Airstream for its second purpose-built outdoor amphitheatre and tourism Hotel allows guests to be close to nature, while providing all the project, expected to open in 2023. creature comforts of home, including an en-suite bathroom, luxe linen, and a private deck from which to soak up the stars at night. It follows the previously announced $235 million redevelopment of Morisset Golf Course, to be known as Cedar Mill Lake Rates include a deluxe breakfast hamper filled with local tastes Macquarie, with plans for a 30,000 person concert venue, cafes as well as a substantial minibar of snacks, water, and soft drinks. and restaurants, accommodation and Australia’s largest aquatic play park. 8 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
briefs By night, guests can choose to dine at the Muse Restaurant or a pager, which flashes when your order is ready to be taken to a venture further afield to Nagambie Brewery & Distillery or one of choice of stools undercover, or the outdoor seating area or on the the many local eateries just a short drive away. grass, across the road from where the Maria Island ferry departs. You help yourself to vinegar or other condiments, sit down and “The Mitchelton Airstream Hotel is a permanent fixture of the enjoy. estate, and it offers a romantic getaway if you’re looking for something unique to do this Valentine’s Day or if you just need to What makes the Triabunna Fish Van special is the quality, get away from all the hustle and bustle,” says general manager freshness, and choice of fish - and the swift, friendly service. The Martin Garrett. Van's slogan is \"fresh from our boat to you\". “We have received an influx of enquiries since we first announced All the food is freshly cooked while you wait, and the Van is open in December 2020, so we encourage people to hop online and daily from 11am-6.30pm. reserve their Airstream as soon as possible to avoid missing out.” Pick up a bottle of riesling from Craigie Knowe, a chardonnay The Airstreams are situated just a short stroll from the Mitchelton from Freycinet Vineyard or maybe a Melrose pinot noir from Hotel and guests will also have full access to everything on offer Spring Vale winery on the way and you have a positive feast for at the estate, including the Gallery of Aboriginal Art, which is a pauper's price. Australia’s largest commercial gallery dedicated to indigenous art, and features some of the largest works produced by some of PS: The van also sells fresh fish and crayfish if you would like Australia's most revered Indigenous artists. to take some home to cook yourself. See www.thefishvan.com. au for the menu or https://eastcoasttourism.com.au/ for local tips. There is also a day spa, swimming pool and gym facilities. STOP TO SMELL THE ROSES HOT TIP FOR FRESH SEAFOOD AND WINE It is 15 years since the Tar & Roses wine brand was launched by FOR lovers of wine and fresh seafood, Winestate contributor Winsor Narelle King and her late business partner Don Lewis. The duo Dobbin believes he has found Australia’s best gourmet bargain. began making wine in the late 1990s after Narelle completed of a winemaking degree at Charles Sturt University. Consider a meal of fresh-cooked local seafood and crispy hot chips served with tartare sauce, a slice of lemon and a choice of While working together at Mitchelton Wines, the pair soon vinegars. Choose between battered, crumbed, or grilled fish. Take developed a mutual respect for each other’s winemaking skills, a seat overlooking the east coast fishing fleet that call Triabunna as well as a shared admiration for the wine and food experiences. home, and pull out a BYO bottle of delicious, crisp, local cool- What started as a small passion project has transformed into a climate wine? No corkage charges. The total cost per head? $12. range of excellent - and affordable - wines from Victoria’s Goulburn Valley. The Triabunna Fish Van is on the east coast of Tasmania, around a 90-minute drive from Hobart. It's the perfect spot for Tar & Roses is the love child of grapes of Mediterranean heritage, a break for anyone travelling on the Great Eastern Drive from including Spain and Italy. Think pinot grigio, a nebbiolo rosé, a tempranillo and a sangiovese. the Tasmanian capital to tourism destinations like But the road has not been an easy one for King, who has been Bicheno or Coles Bay. flying solo since Lewis, a former Jimmy Watson Trophy winner, died in 2017. The setting is not flashy, or particularly “Don loved Tar & Roses and what we had been able to achieve,\" comfortable. You order she says. \"It gives me great pleasure to think of how we’ve your fish (local flathead or continued and grown the brand successfully in his absence. blue grenadier perhaps, or maybe some Tassie \"He would be so happy to see how many people now love and scallops). You are given drink the unique pinot grigio we produce.” Tar & Roses was inspired by time both winemakers spent November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 9
briefs travelling around Mediterranean wine regions. They sourced fruit THE COACH HOUSE AT KANGARILLA from Heathcote, the Strathbogie Ranges, King Valley and even some from Spain. Tar & Roses is based in Nagambie, a small LOOKING for somewhere to stay in McLaren Vale? country town north of Melbourne. On the rugged hillside of Kangarilla property Hillenvale, The “Having the opportunity to produce an array of different varieties Coach House is the latest addition to the Fleurieu Peninsula’s from various, celebrated areas around Victoria has allowed Tar & collection of boutique accommodation. Roses to engage with multiple vineyards and wineries, each with its own distinct personalities and quirks,” says King. The stone cottage is being managed by the team behind McLaren Vale winery Hither & Yon, who also run the vineyards and grazing “It makes me happy to think of our achievements over time, the land on the site. problems we overcame, the fun we had along the way and the joy our wines bring to so many people. “The Coach House is an all-inclusive and exclusive couples retreat, housing a fully equipped country kitchen, cosy lounge, \"Life is short, and you do really need to ‘just do it’. I think Covid luxurious bedroom, and outdoor drinks deck with beautiful views has taught us to appreciate that and what’s important in our lives. across the property, while Kuitpo forest is nearby as well,” says Just like good coffee, you should enjoy the things that make you Hither & Yon director Malcolm Leask. happy, especially fine wine.” “We want our guests to immerse themselves in the beauty of the HANDY GADGETS regions and really unwind. The Coach House is close to everything you want, yet a million miles away from anything you don’t.” VICTORINOX and Coravin both have released gadgets that any wine lover would find handy and welcome as a Christmas present. Located between two wining and dining regions in McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills, and with an array of attractions in easy The new Classic Colours Collection knives by Victorinox are tiny, reach, The Coach House is billed as \"an idyllic getaway\". trendy, fun and diverse. The property’s refurbishment retains its 19th-century sandstone With names like Smashed Avocado, Tropical Surf and Cotton cottage charm. Candy, these 30 small pocketknives are colourful and useful. Just 58mm long, the small pocketknives feature a blade, a nail The 100-acre Hillenvale property is home to vineyards which file, a screwdriver, scissors, and a key ring. All Cellidor models span across the valley to include both McLaren Vale and Adelaide also include tweezers and a toothpick. There are also matching Hills regions, with Hither & Yon set to soon release their first pinot accessories in the form of five different leather pouches or, as a noir from the property. special highlight, five fun silicone cases. The Coach House is now open to guests with bookings available The Classic Colours Collection Cellidor Swiss Army Knife costs directly through the Hillenvale website. To book a stay at The Coach $47.95. Available now at www.victorinox.com.au House, visit www.hillenvale.com. Hillenvale is located at 194 Cut Hill Road, Kangarilla, South Australia. Coravin is the company that pioneered wine preservation tools and its new slim-line Pivot model promises to keep still wine fresh REST IN PEACE BROTHER JOHN MAY for up to four weeks. Unlike other Coravin devices, this innovative tool uses a stopper to seal the bottle and is compatible with all still BROTHER John May SJ AM, the long-serving winemaker at wine closure types and bottle shapes. Sevenhill Cellars in the Clare Valley, died in August, aged 92. Coravin’s award-winning patented technology replaces poured He was the seventh and final Jesuit winemaker at Sevenhill, a wine with the same food-grade argon gas used in the bottling position he held from 1972 until his retirement from full-time work in 2003. The winery was established in 1851 by the Society of process, preventing Jesus, a Catholic religious order commonly known as the Jesuits. oxidation, and preserving wine “John’s engagement across the cellars, St Aloysius’ Church, and quality from the in later years the on-site retreat centre characterised Br John’s deep first pour to the last commitment to an active, but contemplative and devotional, faith,” sip. The Coravin said Jesuit Provincial Father Quyen Vu SJ. Pivot is easy to use and is priced from “John was so committed as a Jesuit to his mission in winemaking, $184.95. See www. which was unexpectedly entrusted to him.” coravin.com.au Born in Sydney in 1929, as a child Brother John was an altar boy at the Jesuit-run St Mary’s Church, North Sydney. After finishing school, he accepted a carpentry and joinery apprenticeship. 10 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
briefs Following work in the building industry, he joined the Jesuits in Odgers-Hughes draws inspiration from the rough and wild south- 1949 at Loyola College, Watsonia, in Victoria. He spent the next west coastline of Western Australia that MadFish Wines calls home. 14 years there, performing various tasks and learning new skills MadFish has used turtle artwork by local artist Maxine Fumagalli through the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT). as its signature for three decades. His first assignment to the Jesuit winery at Sevenhill began in \"We saw this milestone as an opportunity to refresh our MadFish 1963, when he was sent to collaborate with Brother John Hanlon wine labels with a new look that emulates an authentic evolution SJ. He was there for seven years. of our brand – modern, positive, local, and influenced by our love for the southwest coastline and the lifestyle it inspires,\" the Burch It was Brother Hanlon’s sudden death in 1972 that led to his recall family said. to Sevenhill. After arriving, he asked that the interim appointment be made permanent to ensure the winery would survive. Returning Each label pays homage to the grape varietal and the land from to Sevenhill as winemaker, without any formal qualifications, he which the fruit is grown in Margaret River and the Great Southern. relied on his gifts with his hands and the fact that, in his words, he The new range comprises MadFish Chardonnay, MadFish Shiraz, had spent his previous period there “with eyes and ears open”. MadFish Sauvignon Blanc Semillon and MadFish Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Madfish Rosé and MadFish Moscato. Over time he took courses in laboratory and cellar procedures at winemaking schools and was assisted by the local community MUST VISIT WINERY IN THE SWAN of winemakers in the Clare Valley as he honed his craft. He led the expansion of the Sevenhill vineyards, using the best clones of COMBINE 180 years of history, fine wines and food and beautiful varieties suitable to the Clare Valley, and production grew from 80 riverside gardens and you have a \"must visit\" destination in the tonnes to 500 tonnes per year by 1990. Swan Valley, just a short drive from downtown Perth. Sevenhill’s sacramental wine distribution expanded across Sandalford Wines, one of the founding wineries in Western Australia to countries throughout south-east Asia. The range Australia, is now also one of its major gourmet tourism drawcards. of table wines was developed, and a cellar door established, Sandalford’s establishing estate at Caversham, Swan Valley, had attracting up to 40,000 visitors per year. He was a member of a its genesis in 1840 and coincided with European settlement in the range of industry and community groups, including the Clare Valley burgeoning colony of Perth. Winemakers Association. Queen Victoria granted John Septimus Roe, Western Australia’s “This service to winemaking and the local community has been first surveyor general, 4,000 acres of land on the riverbanks at West widely recognised,” said Jonathan O’Neill, the general manager Swan in honour of his 57 years of service to the Commonwealth. of Sevenhill Cellars. He named the property Sandalford after a priory in Berkshire, England - his original home. “Brother John was inducted into the Clare Valley Hall of Fame in 2014; received a Member of the Order of Australia (AM) in 2016 and Sandalford became the Swan Valley’s pioneering agrarian estate became a lifetime member of the Winemakers Federation in 2004. with crops, cattle grazing, vegetables and extensive vineyards and fruit orchards. “What he would have been most proud of is what he did for the local community. John May was a great man, one of the truly great The Roe family purchased a 300-hectare property at Wilyabrup gentlemen of the Australian wine industry and community, who will in Margaret River, planted vines in 1970, and joined a handful be sorely missed.” of others in pioneering Western Australia’s second classic wine region. In the 1990s, the business was sold to the Prendiville family, NEW LOOK AND NEW RANGE FOR MADFISH who have continued to build on tradition. MADFISH Wines, part of the Burch family-owned Howard Park group, has decided to mark its 30th year with a complete refresh. MadFish Wines has just released its new range complete with a new look. The new label artwork designed by local artist Kyle November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 11
briefs Opened earlier this year, the new Sandalford Bar and Restaurant Sandalford Wines has recently welcomed wine industry veteran is open for lunch, Monday to Sunday from 11:30am, and for drinks Ross Pamment as its senior winemaker while Hope Metcalf is on and dinner on Friday to Sunday evenings until late. Featuring an parental leave. He will oversee both Swan Valley and Margaret open kitchen and a wood-fired Sicilian pizza oven, the facility offers River operations. a selection of wine from Sandalford's Swan Valley and Margaret River portfolios. For details and experiences visit www.sandalford.com/ CEO Grant Brinklow said the total spent on the enhancements, NO SOUR GRAPES HERE which were completed during the property’s Covid-19 closure, was more than $3.5 million. WHEN Mike Calneggia, owner of Calneggia Family Vineyards, found himself without a home for some Western Australian shiraz Executive chef Alan Spagnolo, a vastly experienced hand, following the Chinese tariff hikes, he decided to do a good thing heads the kitchen team. The vibe is less formal than it used to be; and turned adversity into possibility. but the food remains seriously good with dishes incorporating fresh regional produce. Standout vegetarian dishes include Gin Mike set out to sell his Bloody Good Red via the Naked Wines Gin paprika cotolette with coal roasted chilli tomato aioli; or try Australia’s “Stop the Squeeze” campaign, to support the Snowdome Dardanup lamb rump, char-grilled medium, with roasted eggplant, Foundation which raises funds for blood cancer research. It is a carrot, feta, and date relish. cause close to Calneggia’s heart as he lost his father to the disease. All menus feature an abundance of local Western Australian In September, his vision has turned into a reality, and he handed seafood. Two standouts are Abrolhos Islands char-grilled octopus, over a cheque to the value of $58,584 to Associate Professor orange, basil, purslane and pink peppercorn dressing and the Chan Cheah, head of Blood Cancer Research WA, a Snowdome shellfish risotto with lobster, local prawns, scallops, tomato, basil, Foundation beneficiary, from funds raised from the sale of the and Aleppo pepper. ‘Bloody Good Red’. There are several activities on offer. First, you can travel to Sandalford Estate by river boat. Cruise into the upper reaches of the Swan as you sample wines before disembarking at Sandalford Estate’s private jetty for an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour, video presentation and Flight of Wines wine tasting. A gourmet two-course lunch is presented on-site before a dessert buffet and afternoon tea is served back on board the vessel. Alternatively, a one-hour Sandalford Experience tour and tasting is priced at $25 per person and operates daily at noon. Bookings are essential. Or, perhaps you would prefer to create your own wine blend. First you participate in a winery tour, learning about the winemaking process up to the blending stage. Then, you will put your knowledge to the test, creating your own original blend of wine, which can be enjoyed over a meal. This three-hour experience is priced at $145 per person and operates every Saturday at noon. During summer, Covid permitting, Sandalford regularly hosts concerts featuring the likes of Neil Diamond and Jimmy Barnes. It is also a popular wedding and conference venue. 12 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
briefs “We could not have achieved this fantastic result without the support of Naked Wines Australia,” Calneggia said. “It is very gratifying to see all the effort put in by our team and Naked Wines producing such a terrific result. It is fitting that we have presented this cheque on the first day of National Blood Cancer Awareness Month.” A SWEET TREAT include free wine tastings, a Chocolate and Wine experience, wine and/or food in the vines and vineyard tours. CRAIGIE Knowe was the first vineyard planted on Tasmania’s East Coast – back in 1979. NEW ULTIMATE EXPERIENCE Now it is the first cellar door in the state to have its own on- ULTIMATE Winery Experiences Australia has unveiled its latest site patisserie. member with Dominique Portet Wines joining De Bortoli as the group's second member in the Yarra Valley in Victoria. Open every day the rustic cellar door is open (Friday-Monday right now), the patisserie offers visitors the chance to combine “We are delighted to join Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia a tasting of wines - which range from riesling and pinot gris to and we’re honoured to be counted among such an esteemed pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon – with a sweet treat. group of wineries,” says 10th-generation winemaker Ben Portet. Just a few weeks after opening the patisserie, winery co-owner “Our plans for Dominique Portet align perfectly with the vision Glenn Travers said the new addition was contributing over 15% of UWEA - to increase the reach and impact of Australian of income. The meringues and macarons, cakes and other wine tourism.” treats are created by the renowned Xinruo Wang, a pastry chef previously with Daci & Daci in Hobart and Burch & Purchese Sweet Studio in Melbourne. She happens to be the partner of Travers’ son – a fortunate piece of synchronicity. In addition to the patisserie, Craigie Knowe tourism offerings Dominique Portet Wines is home to a cellar door and bistro with a very French accent. “We’re delighted to welcome Dominique Portet to the fold,” said Kate Shilling, executive officer of Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia. “They bring a slice of Bordeaux to the Yarra Valley with award-winning Australian wines crafted with French sensibility.” The Portet family are considered wine-making royalty, with Dominique Portet learning his craft in Bordeaux and practicing November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 13
briefs it throughout an illustrious career in France, the Napa Valley, and \"It's a big, weighty, tropical spirit with deep layers of caramelised Tasmania, before finally settling in the Yarra. sugar, spice and all things nice.\" In 2008, his son Ben took the reins of the winery after years of Industry veteran Bertie Cason, co-founder of The Whisky Club experience working in wineries in South Australia, Bordeaux, South adds: “Westward’s limited product runs are always sell-outs amongst Africa and the Napa Valley in California. Whisky Club members, and we are anticipating nothing different for the Westward American Single Malt Rum Cask release.” “Ben continues more than 40 years of dedicated family wine craftsmanship in Australia, forging a new chapter in a winemaking The Whisky Club delivers one-off whisky releases direct to story that spans more than a century, specialising in sparkling members’ doorsteps. It is free to join, and members can opt-out wine, chardonnay, rosé and cabernet sauvignon,” says Shilling. at any time. The two special UWEA experiences include Le Tour de Rosé; a JOIN THE CROWD look at three different wine styles – sparkling brut rosé, the Fontaine Rosé and a new addition – a single vineyard rosé. TRENTHAM Estate has unveiled an eye-catching new product - a 1.5-litre wine pouch branded as Three's A Crowd. The pouch is Hosted by Dominique Portet, these tastings include an overview being promoted as a way to enjoy wine that offers convenience, of the estate’s history, followed by a wine tasting matched with a sustainability, and quality. selection of charcuterie, cheese and rustic baguette. The new pouch range initially offers a pinot grigio and pinot The André Experience features a tour, tasting and bistro lunch noir in eye-catching packaging. With the increase in outdoor get- with a behind-the-scenes tour of the estate, a tutored wine tasting togethers becoming the \"new norm\" and many consumers limiting in the André room, perched above the working winery, and then their alcohol intake, Trentham Estate saw an opportunity. lunch with a three-course menu of French family classics. Dominique Portet is located at 870 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream, VIC. Discover more at www.ultimatewineryexperiences.com.au NEW WHISKEY RUM OFFERING The pouches are being pitched as \"perfect for outdoor activities such as picnics, camping, beach holidays and even road trips\". LEADING US distillery Westward Whiskey has created a new-limited The wines will last several weeks in a fridge. edition release especially for members of The Whisky Club. “In this current climate consumers are looking for more affordable Westwards Whisky is a trendsetting distillery based in Portland, alternatives, however they still want great quality wine, and Three's Oregon, that has built up a global following. The new drop is a A Crowd offers that,” says Anthony Murphy, chief winemaker and collaboration between Westward’s distillers and their long-time managing director. friends, the Leal family, who founded Casa Magdalena rum distillery in Guatemala. The compact pouch, which holds the equivalent of two standard bottles of wine, produces 80% less carbon emissions than glass The wine drop, Westward American Single Malt Rum Cask, has an (glass bottles and their transportation being the two biggest ABV of 62.5% and is aged in barrels seasoned with all-natural, cane- contributors to the carbon footprint of wine production). Designed to-glass rum. The Rum Cask begins with the original, award-winning by Melbourne-based packaging design studio, Design Energy, the Westward American Single Malt Whiskey and then is matured in new, colours for each varietal reflect day and night and the seasonal lightly charred American oak barrels in small batches. It is then aged changes. The pouches are available exclusively from First Choice in barrels seasoned with Casa Magdalena Rum. Liquor Market stores, Australia-wide for $16 each. Casa Magdalena is the first new rum to emerge from Guatemala For further information, visit www.trenthamestate.com.au/ in an entire generation, threesacrowd and for this reason, we knew they were the perfect partner for this venture,\" said lead distiller Miles Munroe. \"To us, this limited release perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the new world whiskey movement, as we look to leverage natural ingredients and celebrate excellent flavours native to each product’s origin. 14 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
briefs COMMITMENT TO ZERO CARBON STAY IN LUXURY IN THE HOME OF A FORMER MINI-SERIES CLARE Valley-based Taylors Wines has become the first independent Australian winery to set ambitious emissions THE newest ultra-luxe retreat and conference centre in the Barossa reductions targets in line with the Paris Agreement. Valley may just look a little familiar to those with good memory recall. Taylors - known as Wakefield Estate in Europe - today announced Kingsford The Barossa, now completely refurbished, was for many its further commitment to environmental sustainability by becoming years the homestead Drover's Run on the popular Australian TV series a signatory to the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi). McLeod's Daughters. The family-owned winery has set a target to achieve a 50% Over the past three years, the luxury property that dates back to 1856 reduction in its scope 1 and scope 2 greenhouse gas emissions and is under an hour from Adelaide Airport, has been transformed by by 2030, in line with the more ambitious target of limiting climate owners Stefan and Leanne Ahrens. The Ahrens family hopes Kingsford change to 1.5˚C under the Paris Agreement. The 2030 target The Barossa will quickly become recognised as one of Australia's provides a clear pathway for the winery to show it is on track to premier food and wine destinations - with an impressive wine cellar becoming net-zero by 2050. already being stocked with names including Henschke, Penfolds, Yalumba, Rockford, Peter Lehmann. Taylors, whose winemaking is led by Adam Eggins, joins 31 other leading Australian businesses including Woolworths, Telstra, Ahrens says he anticipates Kingsford The Barossa will appeal to both and Bank Australia who have committed or set specific targets local and out-of-state visitors as a “new tourism drawcard, corporate to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions. The signing of this retreat, wedding location and special events venue, whether as a commitment is the latest sustainability milestone by the Taylor space for celebration just for two, or a group looking to use Kingsford family who have championed innovative practices to reduce its as a base to explore the region. impact on the environment. “Leanne and I, along with the Ahrens family, believe we have created “As viticulturalists we’ve always been intimately connected to something really special,” he said. “Kingsford is a place we really the climate and changes in the seasons,\" said managing director want the region to be proud of and a destination we can all share Mitchell Taylor. with the world. \"Our industry has seen first-hand the significant impacts of climate “We have taken the heart of the Barossa and embodied that change on wine regions around the world. As a multi-generational at Kingsford. You come to Kingsford to share all of the Barossa family winery, creating a sustainable business is essential to the experiences in one place, where you have privacy and exclusivity future of our industry and to the planet.” whilst savouring the best collections of food and wine we can offer.\" SBTi is a collaboration between CDP Global, the United Nations Guests can choose to stay in the Homestead Suites, View Suites, Global Compact (UN Global Compact), World Resources Institute three-bedroom Meg’s Cottage or the Stonemason’s Cottage. Room (WRI) and the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF). features include LCD TVs, complimentary minibar items, Nespresso coffee machines, pillow menus, wifi, in-suite safes, hairdryer, robe and Taylors Wines has implemented a number of sustainability slippers. There are 16 rooms and suites in all, all beautifully furnished. initiatives including energy-efficient tank refrigeration and barrel hall temperature control; regeneration of the local Wakefield River catchment area and organic cultivation practices in the vineyards including the use of sheep to manage winter grass and weed growth. Taylors has also become a member of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia - a collaborative initiative for Australia’s grape growers and winemakers to demonstrate a continued improvement in sustainability in viticulture and winemaking For details see www.taylorswines.com.au/sustainability. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 15
briefs On-site attractions include The Orleana Restaurant, which has Espresso Nougaretto Martini is an espresso martini made with a focus on local Barossa produce and is overseen by consultant Bettenay’s coffee nougat liqueur. If martinis are not your thing, the chef Stuart Oldfield, alongside three bars – the 1856 Lodge Bar, Nougaretto hot chocolate is a crowd favourite and there is also a the Peppertree Bar and the Kegelbahn, which features a custom- non-alcoholic version for designated drivers. built authentic German indoor bowling alley - something unique and reflective of the Barossa's history. Family-owned Bettenay’s was established in 1989. The family began making French-style soft nougat in 2012 with locally sourced There is also an outdoor saltwater pool, picturesque walking trails south-west honey. It now offers 39 flavours that include classics nearby and the exclusive Kingsford ‘Bush Bath' al fresco bathing like French vanilla bean, cranberry and pistachio, and honey and experience in a remote spot on the 225-acre property. toasted almond. Prices range from $895 to $2000 per couple per night, including For more information, visit www.bettenaysmargaretriver.com.au. hosted luxury accommodation with daily housekeeping and country breakfast. STAY AT SEQUOIA IN SA For full details and bookings visit www.kingsfordhomestead. SOUTH AUSTRALIA has a new luxury lodge just a short drive com.au from downtown Adelaide. Sequoia, part of the Mount Lofty House property, is the first luxury lodge in Australia to be situated within WINE AND NOUGAT A WINNING COMBO? an hour of an international airport. WINE and nougat may seem like an unlikely gourmet combination, The $18 million lodge in the Adelaide Hills aims to treat guests but both have proved a success for Bettenay’s in Margaret River. to some of South Australia's best food and wine, wellness The award-winning winery and nougat house is combining the pair experiences, history, and nature experiences. with special locals’ days on Sundays from 1pm-5pm over winter. Sequoia sits on the side of Mount Lofty, high above the Piccadilly Locals can enjoy Bettenay’s wines by the glass for just $6, Valley, a region currently being considered for UNESCO World Espresso Nougaretto Martinis for $10 and toast nougat on the fire Heritage status. It is also home to some of Australia's finest while relaxing to toe-tapping tunes from Radio Margaret River. boutique wine producers. Product development manager Danica Bettenay said that for over Comprising fourteen luxury sustainably designed suites, the 30 years Bettenay’s has been a part of the fabric of the Margaret lodge has an intimate lounge centred around social connection River region. along with immersive nature-inspired experiences, natural artesian spring-fed hot stone pools, an infinity pool, new day spa and valley “It’s the locals and community that makes living in the southwest rim campfire amphitheatre. so special and we thought we could acknowledge that with Locals Day every Sunday,” she said. It is owned and operated by South Australian local David Horbelt and his business partner Malcolm Bean. “To us, Sundays are the best day in the region – things are a little calmer and it feels more relaxed. Horbelt said: “Malcolm and I are delighted to be able to build upon our world-famous luxury offering at neighbouring Mount “We’ve trialled Locals Day the past two Sundays and it’s worked Lofty House. At Sequoia, we have created an entirely new level of really well. It gives people a chance to enjoy the beautiful surrounds opulence, every detail has been carefully planned to take guests of our cellar door with lake and forest views over drinks with friends on a journey that will touch the senses, connect with the soul and or make new friends around the fire. create a pure sense of delight.” ”Everyone is welcome, locals and visitors – at the heart of it, it’s Led by a team of \"experience hosts\" (that sounds dreadfully about coming together.” pretentious), there will be activities themed around the pillars of food and wine, wellness, nature, and history. Think guided nature walks through the bush home of the world’s largest surviving koala population, star gazing, private helicopter tours and private tastings with some of Australia’s leading vintners. The décor at Sequoia includes a collection of artisanal pieces and amenities including Nick Mount glass, JamFactory ceramics, Jurlique products, Hahndorf soap and OrganiQ bath salts. One of the highlight amenities located on the estate is the Gatekeeper’s Day Spa. 16 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
briefs Guests can dine at the three-hatted Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant, two-litre wine packs designed by Australian street artist Mulga. The one of Australia’s most acclaimed fine-dining restaurants with a la partnership with Mulga exhibits his interpretive style and brings carte and degustation menus. excitement to cask wine shelves in liquor stores, Winesmiths says in a press release. Sequoia can be booked for private use to create an entirely exclusive experience. See www.sequoialodge.com.au The designs appear on the sauvignon blanc, semillon sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio and shiraz packs, each featuring Australian NEW HUNTER WINE BRAND characters such as a cockatoo, parrot, ibis, platypus and seagull. MEET John Wallace Wines - the Mulga (aka Joel Moore) is known for his \"unique funky animal newest wine brand to emerge creations set within a summer infused world of bright colours and from the Hunter Valley. John joyful times\". Wallace does not actually exist, but the man behind the brand “I love summer times and creating funky characters who exhibit is one of the Hunter's leading that larrikin Australian sensibility, and if my art brings a smile to winemakers; Richard Done, your dial, I'm happy,” said Mulga. who has worked at Scarborough Wines, Thomas Wines, Hunter’s Winesmiths marketing manager Jacinta Gibson explains: “The Dream Estate and Bimbadgen Winesmiths Mulga Edition provides a story beyond the wine. It Estate, where he is currently celebrates those that have a unique view of the world. chief winemaker. “Just like an artist, our winemakers put as much love and Done has a Master’s degree dedication into each of our cask wines as they do bottled wines. in Wine Science and Viticulture They do not compromise on quality in any way. It’s about harnessing but having spent a lifetime of the greatness of the variety for that vintage.” correcting others mispronouncing his surname (think Ken Done, not Dunn), he decided to honour his grandfathers, John, and Wallace, Every sale of the Winesmiths Mulga Edition casks will contribute when it came to naming his winemaking business. to the ‘Winesmiths Sacrifice Nothing Grant,’ which will award one artist $5000 towards an art project. The first two wines released under the John Wallace Wines label are a tribute to the winemaker's grandmothers, Margaret and Judith. BEST KEPT SECRET REVEALED The 2021 Maggie white and the 2021 Juju red (both $25) will soon be followed by a chardonnay and reserve shiraz. SABO’S on Severn and Cooked From Scratch cooking school have been described as among the best-kept secrets on the Granite Belt. The white is an energetic, high-spirited, and fun blend of semillon, Sabo’s on Severn offers eight rooms with four in-house guest rooms vermentino, chardonnay and pinot gris, while the red is 100% shiraz and four self-contained units, set on 33 acres backing onto the Severn made in \"nouveau\" style, not your usual Hunter style. River with an abundance of birds, wildlife and places to explore. \"My wines offer a relaxed yet upbeat flow of freshness,\" Done Situated in Fletcher, a short drive from Stanthorpe, Sabo’s On Severn says. \"They are wines for enjoying and having fun with.\" See www. has a garden, barbecue facilities and a terrace with free wifi throughout johnwallacewines.com.au the property. All guest rooms at the guest house are fitted with a seating area. Queen size beds fitted with electric blankets are featured CASKS NOT TO BE MISSED throughout. All rooms have a private bathroom, a hairdryer and bed linen and guests at Sabo’s On Severn can enjoy a à la carte breakfast. YOU will not miss the new limited-release wine casks from Stanthorpe is 11km away, while Tenterfield is 38 km from the property. Yalumba-owned Winesmiths on the shelves of your local bottle shop. Winesmiths recently released a vibrant set of limited-edition Owners Joe and Lizzie Sabo boast that several wineries are close by, and that the property serves restaurant quality meals cooked by Lizzie herself. In-house dinners are also available for guests to enjoy and match the seasons of the Granite Belt. See www. sabosonsevern.com.au November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 17
briefs QUEENSLAND WINEMAKING PIONEERS by a platter of local cheeses. They freely admit that their wine grapes are grown on the Granite Belt 200 km away, but the wines IMAGINE the reaction 50 years ago when Angelo and Mary Puglisi are made on site. decided they wanted to make fine wine in Queensland. The Puglisi family, pioneers of viticulture on the Granite Belt, recently One of the largest Gold Coast wineries, Cedar Creek Estate, celebrated 50 years of making shiraz on the Granite Belt and have does grow some warm-climate varieties such as verdelho expanded to a large range of varieties. and chambourcin on site. You can enjoy lunch here next to a picturesque garden overlooking the vineyards. Ballandean Estate’s single vineyard premium shiraz is sourced from the Opera Block’s oldest vines, planted in 1968 - testament Near Canungra, you'll find O'Reilly's Canungra Valley Vineyards, to the pioneering Puglisis. where you can feast on picnic baskets and enjoy music at weekends. “Our cool-climate shiraz is a family jewel,\" says Angelo Puglisi. \"Many shiraz vines in Australia are under 15 years old - and the Sarabah Estate Vineyard is a family-owned estate and vineyard older the vines, the lower the yield and more luscious the fruit. located just outside Canungra that is open Friday to Sunday for lunches at the Chalet Bistro, Sunday breakfasts and picnics in “We’ve come a long way since the sixties, when the naysayers the vines. told us the vineyard would fail — because only wogs drink wine in Queensland! The Sarabah Estate homestead looks as though it’s been plucked from a European countryside. As well as the vineyard, “Our expression of terroir begins in the vineyard, our hands and olive groves and main residence, the property encompasses a in our hearts. We work the soil, we tend the grapes — every bottle wedding function centre, marquee, a working market garden tells a story, the people, the place, the passion. and citrus grove. \"Fifty years on, these vines are bearing incredible fruit.” At Mount Cotton – an hour’s drive north of the Gold Coast – Queensland’s oldest family-owned-and-operated winery future- Sirromet Wines is a family owned and run winery spread across proofed its reputation for quality shiraz by planting 5000 shiraz eight hectares. Again, a lot of fruit comes from the cooler Granite plants next to the Opera Block vineyard. Belt. Sirromet creates a wide range of wines including lesser- The on-site Barrel Room restaurant remains one of the best in known varietals like montepulciano and has a renowned on-site the region. Visit www.ballandeanestate.com. restaurant, Lurleens. MORE THAN JUST SUNSHINE ON THE COAST For full details see www.destinationgoldcoast.com/blog/gold- coast-wineries/ THE Gold Coast is a beach destination with a lot to offer. But not as known for its vineyards. SCENES FROM THE SCENIC RIM Most of the grapes used by Gold Coast hinterland wine KNOWN for its breathtaking scenery, soaring peaks, local producers are grown several hours away in the much cooler produce, vibrant arts and crafts plus expansive bushwalking and Granite Belt region near Stanthorpe. rainforest tracks, the Scenic Rim is only 90 minutes from Brisbane and all of it falls within 150km of Brisbane’s city centre. That said, there are several worthwhile destinations for wine lovers, including Witches Falls at Mount Tamborine, where you can With plenty of family-friendly destinations and opportunities to watch grapes grow as you taste their array of wines accompanied experience some of Australia’s most gorgeous views, it’s an ideal spot to escape to with youngsters. Among the highlights are lunches at the Overflow Estate between Beaudesert and Boonah on the edge of Lake Wyaralong. Think Towri sheep cheese and Summer Land Camel ice cream included. At Arthur Clive’s Family Bakehouse, the Pennell family have been baking in the Scenic Rim and surrounds since the 1930s, with current baker Aidan Pennell’s grandfather starting the original business in Boonah. Grab some old-styled baked goods like a Cherry Ripe slice or take some for a picnic at Lake Moogerah. It’s a popular spot for boating, bushwalking and fishing enthusiasts (licence required). Stay a night or two at Clandulla Cottages and Farmstay, with self- contained cottages providing a rural experience. Guests can get involved in farm activities, hand feed and cuddle friendly animals and toast marshmallows around the campfire at the end of the day. HYATT ARRIVES IN BRISBANE BRISBANE has its first Hyatt Hotel - the eighth in Australia. Located in the heart of the city's central business district within Queen Street Mall, the 292-room Hyatt Regency Brisbane features 18 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
briefs an outdoor infinity pool and bar. The hotel has been re-branded owned Gelocchio, which serves 100% natural ice cream, including from the former NEXT Hotel and undergone a refurbishment to their well-known ice cream or sorbet on a stick. enhance the guestrooms, public areas, event spaces and dining venues. For more info check out www.tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au David Udell, group president, Asia-Pacific, Hyatt, said: “Hyatt A PERFECT VIGNETTE has had a brand presence in Australia for more than 30 years. IHG Hotels & Resorts has announced the Vignette Collection as its \"With Brisbane being one of the fastest-growing cities in Australia, new luxury and lifestyle brand, with hotels in Australia and Thailand Hyatt Regency Brisbane is a strategic addition to our growing the first to join the collection. portfolio in the country, complementing our current and future hotels in key destinations such as Sydney and Melbourne.\" The Vignette Collection becomes the sixth addition to IHG's brand portfolio in the past four years, taking it to 17 brands in total across The hotel is a 15-minute walk from the Brisbane Convention & nearly 6,000 hotels in more than 100 countries. Exhibition Centre, and approximately a kilometre from the South Bank cultural district. IHG's Vignette Collection aims to give owners of world-class independent hotels the opportunity to retain their distinctive identity, Facilities include a 24-hour fitness centre, an all-day restaurant while benefitting from a global marketing push. The properties will and more than 100 square metres of flexible function space. See be based in urban and resort locations. www.hyattregencybrisbane.com Among the first hotels to join IHG's Vignette Collection is Hotel X MAJOR MAKEOVER FOR CAIRNS ESPLANADE in the centre of Brisbane's Fortitude Valley. THE iconic Cairns Esplanade in North Queensland has undergone Daniel Moran, general manager at Hotel X, said: “We could not a major makeover with a new and improved dining precinct. be more thrilled that Hotel X is one of the first hotels in the world to open under the Vignette Collection brand. The redevelopment has enhanced the popular waterside strip by creating more pedestrian walkways and space for dining, including \"We think the brand is a perfect fit for our luxury hotel in Brisbane's a contemporary al fresco setting with awnings for better weather Fortitude Valley, with its distinctive design and premium facilities protection and areas that bring the Esplanade Parklands closer to that celebrate this iconic Brisbane neighbourhood through the outdoor venues. ultra-cool art, Avant Garde lighting and exceptional views of the cityscape.\" For the best vistas head upstairs to rooftop bar Oak & Vine to enjoy stunning views of the Esplanade, lagoon and beyond whilst GONG FOR LUXURY DIGS you munch on share plates and sip signature cocktails. Or head to Whiskey & Wine at the modern Crystalbrook Flynn hotel. PERCHED above Brisbane's CBD, The Inchcolm by Ovolo (previously Ovolo Inchcolm) was named the “best deluxe accommodation” at Casual dining options include a pub vibe with a tropical edge at the 2021 Queensland Hotels Association Awards for Excellence. Rattle n Hum; or enjoy some German food and a stein or two of beer at the Bavarian Beerhouse. “The Inchcolm By Ovolo is a unique experience from the moment guests set foot into the lobby of the all-suite boutique hotel,” says The newly opened Flynn’s Italian by Crystalbrook offers signature Dave Baswal, Ovolo Group managing director. Italian dishes; or opt for more casual dishes at La Pizza. “The QHA award recognising the hotel as the best deluxe Combine gourmet Northern Thai food with some of the best views accommodation demonstrates the evolution of how the hotel of the newly refurbished Esplanade at Iyara by Sakare with dishes connects with our guests emotionally and delivers a personal yet like stir-fry prawns with chilli jam, and caramelised crispy pork hock, distinctive experience.” washed down with a Tom Yum cocktail. The first property in the By Ovolo Collective in Australia, The If you're craving a sweet treat, check out Churro Time or locally- Inchcolm is characterised by heritage finishes, echoing a bygone era of 1920s glamour. For details see www.ovolohotels.com. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 19
briefs Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney as a part of the Festival program. Plus, for seven days in November (15-21), a free online program of five films will be available for movie lovers and japanophiles from across Australia to enjoy from the comfort of home. The Japanese Film Festival (JFF) in Australia is an annual film festival that has been presented by The Japan Foundation, Sydney since 1997. In 2020 JFF Australia was held both online and in cinemas, reaching an Australian audience of over 43,000 people. 2021 marks the 25th year of JFF Australia, offering newly released Japanese titles along with rare 35 and 16mm film screenings. Full program details are available at www.japanesefilmfestival.net. EFFERVESCENT EXPERIENCE SYDNEY FILM FESTIVAL ANNOUNCES TWO PROGRAMS: DENDY AWARDS FOR TASMANIA'S leading sparkling wine festival returns after a brief AUSTRALIAN SHORT FILMS & EUROPE! period on ice. The finest sparkling houses on the Apple Isle VOICES OF WOMEN IN FILM will once again come together to showcase their best cuvées at the Effervescence Tasmania festival from November 5-7. THE 68th Sydney Film Festival (3-14 November 2021) has today announced the return of the 52nd Dendy Awards for Australian Now in its seventh year, Effervescence Tasmania offers guests Short Films and the sixth annual Europe! Voices of Women in Film the opportunity to sample over 50 sparkling wines from around program, in partnership with Dendy Cinemas and the European Tasmania, poured by the people who grow and make them. Film Promotion respectively. SHORT FILM AWARDS Sydney Film Festival Director Nashen Moodley said, “The Festival is proud A sparkling dinner, hosted by Wine Truth’s Loic Le Calvez, will to once again showcase the incredible works of Australian be held at Timbre Kitchen at Velo Wines in Legana. filmmakers as part of the Dendy Awards for Australian Short Films. Having launched the careers of countless renowned directors, \"Effervescence Tasmania has become a mainstay of the writers, producers and other film creatives over the course of the Tasmanian festival calendar, attracting and welcoming visitors competition’s 52 year-history, the Festival will premiere another from around Tasmania, interstate and, until Covid, from cohort of 10 superb new short films.” Ten finalists for the prestigious overseas,” says Shaine de Venny, general manager of Josef Dendy Awards for Australian Short Films will screen in the Festival. Chromy Wines, the event organisers. Australia’s longest running short film competition is now in its 52nd year and has been sponsored by Dendy Cinemas since \"Although persistent travel restrictions will likely mean that 1989. Finalists will compete for three coveted prizes: The Dendy not everyone who wants to attend will be able to, we’re putting Live Action Short Award, The Rouben Mamoulian Award for Best everything in place to ensure that festivities will be safe and Director and the Yoram Gross Animation Award, announced at the enjoyable for all.” Festival’s Closing Night. Nick Hayes, Head of Theatrical Sales and Acquisitions, Dendy/Icon said, “Short films have a special place in Highlights of the 2021 program include The Grand Tasting, the hearts of all filmmakers. It is where they first try out their ideas a public tasting event at Josef Chromy Wines on Saturday, and skills. It is the first time most will ever use the credit of Director. November 6, showcasing over 50 cuvées from 14 of Tasmania’s For some filmmakers it will be a form to which they return, even best sparkling producers. when they have established themselves in the industry. Such is the joy of the perfectly formed film and Dendy is once again so proud The popular Bubbles and Beats sessions featuring DJ Damien to support all the 2021 Dendy finalists.” Flexipasses to Sydney Goundrie will round out the Saturday program. Film Festival 2021 are on sale now. Call 1300 733 733 or visit sff. org.au for more information. The cellar doors of the House of Arras, Clover Hill, The Ridge North Lilydale and Josef Chromy Wines will host a program of tours, masterclasses and even a mimosa and yoga session on Sunday, November 7. See www.effervescencetasmania.com/ THE JAPANESE FILM FESTIVAL RETURNS TO CINEMAS IN 2021 THE Japanese Film Festival (JFF) in Australia makes a grand return to the cinema for its 25th year from 28 October to 5 December, with a national tour in Canberra, Perth, Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Screening at the new venue of Palace Cinemas in each city, the 2021 Festival program will feature an expertly curated selection of films, from the hottest newly released feature titles alongside action, anime, drama, documentaries and much more. JFF 2021 will also screen a free Tribute Series of films by Shuji Terayama, one of Japan’s most influential avant-garde film directors, in Canberra, 20 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW MARLBOROUGH WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL STATE OF THE NATION COVID has certainly severely tested the patience of event planners. THE New Zealand Winegrowers’ Annual Report always delivers a While the 2021 Marlborough Wine and Food Festival had to be wealth of information. The 2021 Report covers a period that has cancelled, Wine Marlborough is taking the leap for 2022, announcing been more eventful than most, detailing its triumphs and challenges that the 36th festival will be held Saturday 12th February. First held in including the notable achievement of reaching NZ$2.01B of 1985 when there were just four established wineries in the region (one exports, the culmination of a goal set ten years ago to double the of whom was yet to release wine), there are now 158 wineries offering a existing level of exports. multitude of varieties and styles. All but two of the festivals have been held at the Brancott Vineyard (where the first vines of the modern-day The impact of covid sets the overarching theme of the report, era were planted), but as it’s currently undergoing development, the highlighting the tumultuous global environment in which wineries are 2022 event will be held at the nearby Renwick Domain. Alongside operating - New Zealand’s all-but-closed border, global and domestic hundreds of wines, festival-goers can expect to sample local culinary market upheavals plus disruption to supply chains. While the overall delights, take part in masterclasses, and listen to live music, which in export picture seems rosy - a source of justifiable pride amongst the past years has included some of NZ’s best musicians. NZW executive - and the domestic economy is booming, digging into the details delivers a more nuanced picture. It appears that bulk sales SWNZ AIMS FOR CARBON ZERO of sauvignon blanc, almost entirely Marlborough and much of it sold by multinationals to be bottled offshore for private labels, has driven SINCE 1995, Sustainable Winegrowing NZ (SWNZ) has provided a export growth. NZ’s reliable presence in supermarkets/large retail has comprehensive platform of reporting and benchmarking for vineyards paid dividends for those in this channel, with exports gaining 9% in and wineries, now covering 98% of NZ’s vineyards. NZW has begun value and 15% in volume in the last six months of 2020, but the outlook the first stage of a long-term project to “future-proof SWNZ and ensure is less certain for producers focused on independent retail channels its relevance for members”. While a large part of this will be helping and the on-trade, which have borne a disproportionate share of covid’s member’s navigate the new government environmental regulatory brunt. Given NZW’s membership is made up of 19 large companies (i.e. framework, a more ambitious goal is that of the wine industry becoming sales in excess of 4m litres), 67 medium ones (sales between 200,000 carbon neutral by 2050. SWNZ is now collecting climate-specific and 4m litres) and 645 members with sales below 200,000 litres, there data from members to help build a picture of how and where the are a lot of wineries for whom exporting high volume sauvignon is not industry can reduce its greenhouse gas emissions (GGE) to meet this the pathway to success. With global and local hospitality industries deadline. Recent independent reports show that while wine’s GGEs are in a state of flux, the traditional sales channels for these wines has significant, it’s one of the lowest emitters in the horticultural sector and shrunk. Many have refocused energies on the domestic market via is well placed to make significant positive change (as noted previously direct-to-consumer marketing and their cellar doors, though New Yealands and Lawson’s Dry Hills are certified carbon-zero wineries). Zealand consumers have only partially offset the income lost from NZW has set itself a three-year target of reducing emissions by 10% international tourists. The longed-for trans-Tasman bubble was a short- from its 2018/19 baseline, alongside developing a strategy to meet lived milestone and (at the time of press) seems unlikely to reopen longer-term reduction targets. anytime soon. Adding to this, transport costs have more than doubled, shipping has become less reliable, and the resulting supply chain ORGANICS ON THE RISE issues have seen wineries report lost sales. Labour shortages remain acute across all sectors and the inability to access the usual influx of THE recently released 2020/21 New Zealand Organic Market Report seasonal (RSE) workers has hit the horticulture and agriculture sectors details a very encouraging picture for organic wine production. From especially hard. NZW has advocated tirelessly to help ease this and 2017-2020, the export value of organic wine grew 40% to a total of there is finally good news on this horizon with a recent government NZ$65m, and domestic sales value increased by 33%. Vineyard area announcement that RSE workers from Samoa, Tonga and Vanuatu will also increased by 33%, now totalling 235 vineyards and over 2,200ha. no longer need to go through quarantine. Central Otago continues to lead the way with 25% of its vineyards certified, as a result the country now produces more organic pinot The increased demand of 2020 left many wineries with low stocks noir than organic sauvignon blanc. More than 10% of New Zealand and with the smaller 2021 harvest not replenishing cellars, the impact wineries of all shapes and sized hold organic certification and Organic is already showing with export volumes falling 16% in the six months Winegrowers NZ has more than 200 members. The organization to June 2021. NZW says, “At year-end, export value was down 3% to continues its active program of mentoring and support, with popular $1.87 billion, the first fall in 26 years. The total export value will likely fall conferences, online seminars and tastings, workshops and field days further in the year ahead as we estimate the industry is short by up to amongst other activities. seven million nine-litre cases of wine”. There will be strong competition for grapes and wine in the 2022 harvest – good news for growers who will likely see prices rise but not quite so cheerful for wineries, adding further costs in an already tricky environment. For many it will be another challenging year ahead. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 21
europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW THE STATE OF SPARKLING CONSUMPTION of sparkling wine has charts. This country’s hugely popular tank- a warming climate. In the May-June issue been growing in many markets for a while method Prosecco wine has increased I reported about new grape varieties now. It now accounts for 7-8% share of production by around 400% since 2009, being bred for Champagne that are being global wine production, up from about 5% when the region in north-east Italy, firstly selected for ripening period, disease around the turn of the millennium. protected its appellation (geographical tolerance, as well as wine quality attributes, indication). Production of the two Prosecco in a warming world. Europe is the epicentre of sparkling appellation wines now runs at about 600 production. A 2020 OIV (International million bottles, roughly double that of In addition to this development, lower Organisation of Vine and Wine, a Champagne. planting densities are planned. The scientific and technical intergovernmental motivation here is one of sustainability and organisation working with vines and wine), It’s worth noting that quality/style preservation. Champagne is focus report found that the top three renowned for having high vine planting global producers of wine also dominated a significant minority of density. Current Champagne rules allow sparkling wine production: Italy, with 27% maximum 1.5m row spacing. Combined share of sparkling wine, France, with 22% sparkling wine production with specified spacing between vines, it and Spain with 11%. Top 10 wine producer gives an average vine density of around Germany jumps up the chart as the third is traditional method 8,000 vines per hectare. For comparison, biggest producer of sparkling wine, with a 2019 Australian Wine Research Institute 14% share. These four countries account (the way Champagne (AWRI) vineyard and winery practices for making very nearly three-quarters of the survey found the median planting density world’s bubblies. is produced). in Australia is 1,760 vines/ha, with wide, 3.1m row spacing. It’s worth noting that a significant minority By contrast, around 80% of France’s of sparkling wine production is traditional sparkling wines are traditional method, After 15 years of research, the Syndicate method (the way Champagne is produced). not solely Champagne, but also several of Champagne Winegrowers (SGV) found The vast majority is either tank method (a regional Crémant wines (France’s legal that wider spacing, creating densities second fermentation, like the traditional term for non-Champagne traditional of between 4,000 and 5,500 vines/ha, method, but this time in a pressurised method). Crémant d’Alsace and Crémant resulted in a reduction of greenhouse gas tank, from which the sparkling wine can de Bourgogne are the biggest two. And emissions of up to 20%. This is because be filtered and bottled, all under pressure, Spain’s famous traditional method sparkler the wider spacing allowed the use of more to retain the carbon dioxide bubbles of Cava accounts for more than half that efficient equipment. the second fermentation), or carbonation country’s total sparkling production. (like fizzy soft drinks). Both these latter It was also found that the wider spaced methods typically aim to express the Despite the dominance, and tradition, vines have a slightly lower susceptibility to primary fruit flavours of the grapes, while of European countries, little is static in the spring frosts. After the devastating frosts the traditional method typically aims to world of sparkling wine: Champagne has of spring 2021 (March to May), reported in introduce more complex biscuity, toasty, been preoccupied with viticultural changes the July-August issue, and the possibility honeyed, nutty flavours, from ageing on that are aimed to keep the region at the of increased spring frost risk as a result of lees – the fermentation yeasts). They result forefront of cool climate fruit ripening, in climate change, this could be an important in different styles, and costs of product. benefit. It’s little surprise that Italy tops the bubbly In Spain, the reputation of Cava has long struggled to emerge from the bargain 22 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
basement, despite being made by the The new regulation includes defined Perfectly more expensive traditional method. Annual zones and, in the key zones – and only for balanced. production typically runs at about 80% that the ‘aged’ Cavas - sub-zones, which will of Champagne, but in Australia, you’d be be labelled. This is the bit that will allow DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, forgiven not even having heard of Cava. producers to express specific sites, the yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. Just 753,000 bottles were imported in terroir opportunity, and for consumers to Our bold service offering is built on 2020. The appellation’s new zoning and identify them. It’s something very vaguely a full-bodied foundation of vast segmentation rules, which come into effect akin to growers’ Champagne, but not the general commercial experience, yet in January 2022, might allow that situation same, as there is no obligation in Cava for overlaid with distinctive specialist to slowly change, as the region aims to producers to use solely their own grapes. expertise in a number of key improve traceability and quality, and make industries and niche market possible site expression, in response to Even in the tiny-scale sparkling wine sectors. consumers’ increasing interest in wine industry in the UK, (roughly 3-4 times the It’s a winning combination that origin and provenance. scale of Tasmania’s sparkling industry), allows every client who opens a things are changing, alongside huge “case” to get exactly what they Cava is a sparkling wine for which 95% growth. Here, the sparkling wine industry need. So whatever your business of production is in Catalunya, in north- took off as solely traditional method or legal objectives, don’t hesitate east Spain to the west of Barcelona. The sparklers. In just the last few years, a to contact us. growing climate is Mediterranean, and handful of cheaper tank method bubblies At DW Fox Tucker, every the grapes are mainly uniquely Spanish, have been introduced. Some argue client matters. making this a different style of sparkling this risks reducing the UK’s premium wine from Champagne, in spite of the same association for traditional method sparklers L14, 100 King William Street production method. as consumers may not all appreciate the Adelaide SA 5000 cost (and style) differential in making p: +61 8 8124 1811 Measures to improve sustainability are traditional versus tank method. So, also a key part of the regulation revamp. to allow producers to differentiate on e: [email protected] Cava is segmented according to length of the label, earlier this year the UK wine dwfoxtucker.com.au time ageing on lees to gain those toasty, industry association, WineGB, introduced honeyed, nutty flavours. While much of a branding logo (and minimal production COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES production is of ‘young’ Cava, on lees for rules) for ‘Great British classic method’ ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY 9 months or more, which creates minimal wines, to differentiate them from the tank leesy character, rules for ‘aged’ Cava method neophyte bubblies, ‘classic’ here INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY will change. Among other changes, the being used as a synonym for traditional. RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES ‘Reserva’ category will age on lees for 18 Neither Champagne nor Cava have this SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS rather than 15 months (NV Champagne has issue, as both can solely be made by COMPENSATION a minimum of 12 months). Gran Reserva traditional method. But in the UK, with (30 months) and the single vineyard increasing production, new opportunities, category, Paraje Calificado (36 months, and styles, are being created. Letting the same as vintage Champagne), remain consumer understand the differences has unchanged. From 2025, all the ‘aged’ become relevant. Cavas must be made organically. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 23 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM
winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY FIANO CALLING AUSTRALIA HOME IF there is one alternative grape variety that to stick with the indigenous grapes and to acidity.” It is this ability to retain its natural is suited to Australia, then the Italian white plant more, paying them a higher price to acidity in hot climates that is attractive to grape fiano holds all the aces. It grows well do so. This saw fiano, as well as greco and Australian producers. The only downsides in a warm climate, retains acidity and can aglianico survive. Feudi de San Gregorio I’ve been able to discover is the tendency be picked early or left to ripen on the vine. In is another notable producer in the region to have brittle canes and can produce the winery it can be fermented in stainless renowned for their fiano. a second crop as well; as being a little steel to retain its freshness, rested on lees, susceptible to powdery mildew. or given oak treatment; some people also Fiano is now cropping up in all states think it ages well. In comparison to other in Australia, which demonstrates its The first successful Australian fiano grape varieties, it could be compared to adaptability. It sits third in popularity was produced by Mark Lloyd at Coriole. chardonnay, being a winemakers’ grape or behind prosecco and sangiovese. Peter He tells me there are a couple of clones has the split personality of pinot gris/grigio. Lloyd, General Manager at Coriole, makes currently available in Australia. “Fiano VCR a strong case for fiano and reckons that 3 was bought into the country by Chalmers The region famous for fiano is Campania McLaren Vale can claim to be the Australian Nursery in Mildura around 20 years ago. in southern Italy. The grape varieties Whilst Fiano Savii 01 was imported by the home is in the province of Irpinia and the The region famous for CSIRO in the 1970s and probably originally Fiano di Avellino DOCG which lies in-land from UC Davis campus in California,” he from Napoli, the third largest city in Italy, fiano is Campania in explains. Mark was attracted to the variety and its famous Amalfi coast. Away from after tasting it at VinItaly in 2000. “The the coastline Campania is dominated by southern Italy. The grape Savii was the one that was available when rolling hills and mountains with vineyards I decided to plant after visiting VinItaly. The planted up to 700m which mitigates the dry varieties home is in the Vine Improvement Society informed me Mediterranean climate. Soils are typically that there was no vineyard but there were volcanic with clay. Clay retains moisture so province of Irpinia and some vines in the collection at Merbein and is a cool soil and slow to warm up, which they would be able to grow some material helps retain acidity in the grapes. Fiano di the Fiano di Avellino up for me.” Avellino, along with Greco di Tufo, located to the north of Avellino, make up the most DOCG which lies in-land Kim Chalmers from Chalmers in Victoria important white wines of Campania. says fiano is the pick of all the vines they from Napoli, the third grow. “We have six and a half hectares Fiano has a long history and was known at two sites, Merbein and Heathcote.” to the Romans as Apianum. The etymology largest city in Italy, and Last year they sold fiano grapes to over of the word is complex, and there are a 30 other wineries as well as making two number of explanations ranging from the its famous Amalfi coast. wines of their own, a method traditional grape’s attraction to bees or wasps; to sparkling wine and a dry white, which sees a family of grapes called Apianes that ‘home’ to the variety. “Its low yielding which extended lees contact, oak and bottle age originally came from the Peloponnese may explain why it was rapidly falling out before release. region in Greece. It is lucky to have survived of production in Campania. Aside from that as it nearly became extinct in the middle of it is an absolute delight to grow. Tall proud Usually, Italian whites are categorised as the last century. During the 1940 and 1950’s upright structure, even spacing of shoots, non-aromatic. But fiano gives more aromas local grape grower and winemaker Antonio loose open bunches make it a very good than we would normally expect, especially Mastroberardino resisted government calls candidate for organic viticulture. Quite if the grapes are late picked. Coriole Fiano to plant more productive grape varieties drought tolerant as well and high natural displays grapefruit, hazelnut, ginger, pear, and encouraged other local grape growers chamomile, dried grass according to Peter. “We were pretty impressed from the get- 24 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
go and haven’t seen any major changes Uniquely with vine age. We ferment around 20% Yorke of our fiano in seasoned oak, we like the Peninsula development of texture we get here. We also like stainless steel to retain freshness Cellar Door and Function Centre and vibrant aromatics. Fiano has the Open 7 days 10am-5pm capacity to be a full flavoured, highly powerful white and measured use of oak Maitland, South Australia can play an important role here. We’ve Phone (08) 8834 1258 built the confidence to pick a little later as we’ve gone along. Picked very early fiano barleystackswines.com can be almost sauvignon blanc-like in its aromatics, we want fiano to show richness and depth of texture and given its high natural acidity we can push the baumé. Fiano can be prone to stuck ferments so it’s always a good idea to inoculate rather than try to pursue a wild ferment.” I agree here. I’ve seen some early picked fiano that had incredibly high acid and it doesn’t seem to suit the variety or set it apart from other herbaceous varieties. The variety needs middle palate richness derived from increased baumé levels. Kim Chalmers summarises fiano as having, “typical beeswax, almond meal. Sometimes pithy lemon, a hint floral and, as it gets riper, white stone fruit”. She also sees fiano expressing vineyard soils. “At Merbein it is planted on sandy limestone which brings out the fruit, whilst on Heathcote’s Cambrian soils it holds its acidity well and has more minerality and chalkiness.” There is some support in McLaren Vale being the epicentre of production of the variety with twenty-two producers in the region making a fiano. Nationwide there is over one hundred making the variety now. A clear indication that fiano has found a home in Australia. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 25
winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING COME FLY WITH ME - NEW HOTELS AND RESORTS AROUND THE WORLD TO BENCHMARK INTERNATIONAL flights from Australia have Poised at the top of the Spanish Steps, hike or bike through the nearby woodlands, been grounded for over 18 months. But the the 18th century palazzo formerly housed relax in the former music salon or stay in rest of the world has been busy opening the local InterContinental hotel. Glamour the environmentally friendly wooden suites a new crop of hotels and resorts eager has returned, thanks to interiors genius on stilts. The Baron in the Trees Suite has a to welcome back Australians, Americans Tommaso Ziffer, with a decor described huge oak barrel jacuzzi and you can play and tourists from every other travel-starved as Grand Tour on steroids. Translation: lots the nobleman by surveying the bucolic nation. Qantas announced it would be of convex mirrors, wallpaper dotted with scene from the terrace. Like its Bordeaux resuming flights to the US, the UK, Fiji antique prints, retro Chinoiserie furniture counterpart, Les Sources de Cheverny also and New Zealand in December and we and a wide-ranging palette of colours has a spa using Caudalie's famous grape- can now plan to visit some of our favourite from pastel blue to maroon. Chef Fulvio seed creams, lotions and face masks. destinations again (with restrictions in place Pierangeli helms the ranges in Da Sistina of course). restaurant and smart young things flock Porto, the heartland of the global port to the rooftop Cielo Terrace. The Julep trade, is one of the most popular cities If you've been California dreaming, the in Europe for a long weekend escape first large scale resort in the Sonoma The travel bubble because of its UNESCO World Heritage Valley has opened its doors. The Montage listed old town, narrow cobbled streets Healdsburg is the fifth property in the luxury between Australia and and the ravishing Baroque interior of Sao Montage group, alongside swanky sister Francisco church. Torel 1884 Suites and properties in Laguna Beach and Maui. New Zealand has been Apartments are housed in the two main buildings of a former palace and the 23 Northern California's latest wine country stop and start for most suites are based on two themes. The bolt hole is surrounded by 22,000 oak trees continents opened up during Portugal’s and vineyards. The 130 post-modern rooms of the year. Age of Discovery in the 15th century - Asia, are secreted into the gorgeous landscape Africa and America - and the spices and with views of the Mayacamas Mountains for Herbal and Vermouth Bar is a standout goods the intrepid explorers brought back a complete sense of peace. The restaurant with expertly made cocktails inspired by - silk, tea, sugar and porcelain. follows the paddock-to-plate philosophy the 13th century Spice Route from Asia and the wines are mostly local, of course. to Venice. Many of the furnishing and utensils from But if you are on a wine tasting tour, you cutlery to cups are made by local artisans might want a break to enjoy a glass of Les Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux is and ramp up the historic atmosphere of Pliny the Elder IPA in the bar, tapped by one of the most famous spas in the world the property. Private wine and port tastings Forbes magazine as the world's most and specialises in wine-themed face and are offered in the former vault of the palace sought-after IPA. body treatments. Owners Alice and Jerome and the Bartolomeu Bistro and Wine Bar Tourbier have opened a me-too property specialises in traditional Portuguese dishes For fans of Kevin McLoud's Grand Tour, a in the Loire Valley called Les Sources de with a contemporary twist. three-part TV series following in the footsteps Cheverny. The entrepreneurial couple of English aristos through France, Italy and spotted the rundown 18th century chateau Santorini and Mykonos attract the Greece in the 18th century, a trip to Rome and not only renovated the historic pile, crowds, but Paros has re-surged as a is high on the post-lockdown list. Rocco but also re-planted the vineyards in the go-to destination in the Greek Islands. Forte opened the Hotel de Russie, his first surrounding 45-hectare estate. Guests can A jewel of the Cyclades, it was once property in the Eternal City in 2000 and the firmly on the hippie trail in the 1970s. British hotelier has repeated the success with While Giorgios Seferis, one of the most his new establishment - the Hotel de la Ville. important Greek poets of the 20th 26 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. century, described it as the loveliest of cocktail from trolleys filled with spirits and Winestate Magazine all the Greek islands for its white-washed botanicals. Pier 42 is the major bar if you @WinestateEd houses and blue-domed churches. want to people-watch with your tipple and the Gustav is a popular jazz bar named Leading hoteliers, Antonis and Kali after Gustav Henriksen, the founder of the Eliopoulos, own three designer hotels Amerikalinjen. on Santorini and their latest venture is the Parilio on Paros. Interior Design The travel bubble between Australia and Laboratorium, the Athens-based designers New Zealand has been stop and start for and architects, have carved out 33 relaxed most of the year. Like the Norwegians, and sophisticated rooms from existing the Kiwis are keen environmentalists, historic buildings. A member of the Design and the Hotel Britomart in Auckland is Hotels network, the Parilio is centred New Zealand's only 5-star green hotel. around the Mr E restaurant with its upscale Part of a huge urban renewal project of Parian menu and wine list dominated by dockside heritage buildings, its polices some of the best new wave Greek wines. are light years away from asking guests to re-use their towels as a nod to saving Norway has pinged back onto the the planet. There are refillable toiletries, global radar through a series of plastic-free mini bars, doonas made with globally successful TV series such microfiber re-cycled from plastic bottles as Norsemen, Beforeigners, Atlantic and mattresses will be recycled when they Crossing and Ragnarok, many of which need to be replaced. But there's nothing use the country's stunning landscapes hairshirt about the Britomart and the swish as backdrops. Like other Scandinavians, decor is as plush as other luxury properties Norwegians are very concerned about from the bluestone boulder coffee tables to sustainability and many eco-friendly the brass-dipped door handles made from features are now commonplace in Northland driftwood. new hotels. The former Oslo HQ of the Amerikalinjen, the shipping line which The main restaurant - kingi - tells you took more than 800,000 Norwegian the names of the fishermen and women emigrants to the US, has been re-born involved in catching the fish and seafood as a hotel of the same name. on your plate from yellowbelly flounder to kingfish. Chef Tom Hishon is constantly The property is energy-efficient, carbon- evolving the menu to take advantage of neural and sports its own beehive. Full of seasonal catches. The arresting facade original details such as sculptures of the of the building is made from 150,000 sea god Triton and Arts and Crafts carvings, hand-made bricks and makes a first-rate framed maps and ship's menus are a Instagram shot lit up at night. feature of all the rooms. A sister property to the Norwegian capital's most trendy hotel, The Thief, the Amerikalinjen has a floating bartender service. Bartenders come to your room and whip up your favourite November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 27
EYE ON THE PRIZE McArthur Ridge’s sight set on a bright future EMMA JENKINS MW WHEN James McArthur first stepped day. James McArthur’s improvements its aromatic expressiveness and intensity; foot in Central Otago, some 150 years to the land he farmed set it up well for most of its vineyards and wineries are tiny ago, one wonders if he could ever have decades to come and, once consistent family-run holdings. The present day imagined that the scrubby, barren patch water access was secured for the site 800ha McArthur Ridge property was of land he laid claim to would go on to in the late 1990s, the scene was set for established in 2001, conceived initially become one of the southern hemisphere’s its next role as part of Central Otago’s with the intention of developing a lifestyle biggest pinot noir vineyards. In 1870, second goldrush – this time with grapes. complex comprising a premium pinot when McArthur settled in the Waikerikeri noir vineyard, resort hotel, international Valley on what would become McArthur Alexandra is the somewhat hidden gem golf course and over 1000 homes spread Road on the outskirts of Alexandra, of Central Otago, away from the hustle and across the property. The vineyard was Central Otago had just experienced bustle of Queenstown, and a little further planted in 2001 and had doubled in a major gold rush and the region was off the beaten track from the vineyards of size by 2003 with further plantings in booming. McArthur dedicated himself the Gibbston Valley, Cromwell Basin and 2007. The original developers spared to farming, he was well-respected in the Wanaka sub-regions. It holds records no expense setting up the vineyard community and in time became Chairman for New Zealand’s hottest and coldest in a meticulous manner, including a of the Dunstan Hospital Board in 1897; recorded temperatures and its landscape state-of-the-art overhead sprinkler the McArthur name and family is still is beautiful if unforgiving with its arid frost protection system that protects well-known throughout the region to this terrain and dramatic schist outcrops. the vines from Alexandra’s harshest Alexandra’s fruit has long been known for 28 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
frosts. Unfortunately, not long into the development of McArthur Ridge the GFC hit and with a key investor needing to withdraw, the wider project was put on hold. The vineyard instead began operation as a contract grape grower. In 2017, under new ownership, McArthur Ridge began the next phase of its life. Managing Director Jason Dellaca, whose global distribution and marketing company Brandhouse now owns 70% of McArthur Ridge, speaks enthusiastically about his vision for the vineyard and its wines. He notes, “The previous owners left the legacy of a stunning vineyard set up to the highest standards. We see our next steps as a changing of the guard, with big aspirations to grow the brand November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 29
internationally.” Wines are now made “McArthur Ridge is a very exciting site. back step to its own label. At present the by veteran Central Otago winemaker As the largest vineyard in Central it has wines are found extensively throughout Matt Connell, and the portfolio includes a huge range of aspects, a great mix of New Zealand in both supermarkets, three pinot noirs alongside a rosé and clones and a very proactive vineyard online retail and traditional independent pinot gris. The Brass Knocker Pinot team. To me it's a vineyard that has a merchants. While the brand currently Noir is McArthur Ridge’s entry-level, massive amount going for it and it's up has a smaller presence in Australia, fruit-focused wine, with its lighter body to me to help unlock it. The wines tend Dellaca says he is seeking to change and gentle hint of oak it is designed to be in a more ‘Burgundian framework this, commenting “we are actively looking to be approachable for enjoyable with a Central Otago twist’… they are for distributors in Australia, Asia UK and early-drinking. Its bigger brother is the complex with layers of flavours and not USA”. With the accolades starting to pile Southern Tor, which spends 8-9 months in just fruit power”. up (alongside the Winestate success in oak and is made in a classic richly fruited this issue’s pinot noir tasting see page style, aiming to capture the appeal of The vineyard has been managed 52, the 2020 Brass Knocker Pinot Noir the archetypal Central Otago pinot style. from the start by Murray Petrie, who has just taken a top gong at a large New There is also a Reserve wine, similar to keeps a watchful eye over the 110ha of Zealand wine show), the future looks the Southern Tor in winemaking though vines under his care. As a member of bright for McArthur Ridge. with a higher percentage of new oak but Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand, made from select parcels of fruit in the McArthur Ridge is focused on meticulous Previous pages: Vineyard to Raggedy Range, a vineyard and a further barrel selection in data gathering and monitoring. Dellaca selection of McArthur Ridge wines, fighting the frost the winery. In the works is also a prestige says, “We always aspire to exceed the in the vineyard. cuvée of very small volumes – Dellaca [SWNZ] standard – ‘close enough’ is not Above: Vineyard to Leaning Rock Dunstan Range. and McConnell are currently finetuning good enough”. As well as advancing its Opposite page top to bottom: Bud frost, hoare frost willow its details. McArthur Ridge also makes a work in reducing its carbon footprint and tree, frost fighting in the vineyard, frost in the vineyard. fleshy aromatic Pinot Rosé called Lilico undertaking wetland restoration around and a dry, fruit-rich pinot gris called the vineyard to improve local flora and Falls Dam, the fruit for which is sourced fauna habitats, McArthur Ridge has from the Cromwell Basin. At present the plans for future work aiding a breeding vineyard is planted in the vast majority programme for New Zealand’s only native with pinot noir but there is also a small, falcon, the karearea. newly planted block of chardonnay, with plans for release of a wine in 2022/2023. As one of the region’s largest pinot noir McConnell is enthusiastic about the growers, McArthur Ridge still sells some wines and their potential, commenting, fruit to other producers but with detailed plans to expand the wines’ export sales, this aspect is likely to take an increasingly 30 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
“The previous owners left the legacy of a stunning vineyard set up to the highest standards. We see our next steps as a changing of the guard, with big aspirations to grow the brand internationally. We are actively looking for distributors in Australia, Asia, United Kingdom and USA.” November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 31
Pierre Gimonnet & Fils A SPARKLING EXAMPLE OF A GROWER CHAMPAGNE NIGEL HOPKINS WITH the Australian wine lovers’ increasing love affair with smaller, The high percentage of old vines at this estate sets it apart in a boutique winemakers it’s perhaps surprising that they haven’t paid region suffering from a plethora of very young vineyards: “The oldest more attention to grower wines from Champagne. parcels were planted in 1911 and 1913 in the heart of the Grand Cru de Cramant,” says Didier Gimonnet. “Fifty per cent of our vineyard is The difference between these and those from the great houses more than 35 years old, while 80 per cent of our Grand Cru parcels of Champagne is that grower champagnes are those produced by were planted more than 45 years ago. the estate that owns the vineyards where the grapes are grown. While Champagne has some 20,000 grape growers only 4000 “For decades, we observed and cultivated with passion and respect of them produce their own champagne, and then in mostly very our land,” he says. “In doing so, we have enriched our knowledge small quantities, totalling around 20 per cent of Champagne’s and understanding of the great chardonnays of Champagne. This production by volume. expertise leads us to becoming one of the most important, and recognised, producers of Blanc de Blancs champagnes. And much of that never leaves Champagne, accounting for around five per cent of champagne sales in the US and less than “Now, Gimonnet is synonymous with the great chardonnays of two per cent of champagne sales in the UK. the Cote des Blancs and Blanc de Blancs is the true signature of the house.” And according to the imported wines manager for Negociants Australia, Tim Evans, grower champagne sales in Australia are also In true grower champagne style, Gimonnet insists that his probably still less than two per cent. But, he adds, that’s starting to family are still farmers at heart: “As growers we know all our change: “Consumers are starting to show a lot more interest.” parcels – even every vine – alongside their ability to produce a specific style of wine. Our ability to predict what wine we For the past decade or so Negociants has been the importer of can produce is the secret to our decades-long consistency, Pierre Gimonnet & Fils champagne, one of the larger of the grower with nothing left to chance. We seek to express an almost champagnes with just over 20,000 cases a year production, and Burgundian understanding of the terroirs of the Cote-de-Blancs, with a history that extends back to 1750 when the Gimonnet family an endless palette of different terroirs, crus and lieu-dits.” began as farmers and grape growers around the village of Cuis, south of Epernay. Like most growers, they sold their grapes into the As farmers, they also have a strong tradition of practicing champagne trade. sustainable agriculture with minimal use of herbicides and fertiliser, encouraging biodiversity to maintain a balanced It wasn’t until 1935 that Pierre Gimonnet – current owner Didier ecosystem and “create sexual confusion” to avoid the use of Gimonnet’s grandfather - set up the winery that allowed him to become insecticides. a grower-producer, specialising in Blanc de Blancs using chardonnay grapes drawn from 40 separate parcels across 28 hectares – 16ha Grapes are handpicked, traditionally pressed and then vinified of Premier Cru and 12ha of Grand Cru – all in the Côte des Blancs. in small batches, parcel by parcel in 25 to 125 hectalitre tanks. 32 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
For the past decade or so Negociants has been the importer of Gimonnet champagne, one of the larger of the grower champagnes with just over 20,000 cases a year production, and with a history that extends back to 1750 when the Gimonnet family began as farmers and grape growers around the village of Cuis, south of Epernay. Today they produce 250,000 bottles, of which 30-40 per cent are vintage wines, with a total of around 80,000 bottles reserved for the French market. Negociants Tim Evans says, a little regretfully, that the allocation to Australia is “just a handful of cases.” As with all champagne, it’s the art of the blending, the assemblage, that’s all important for Gimonnet where, every spring, around 40 different “clear wines” are assessed according to flavour, personality and potential for ageing. First to be assembled is the entry level Cuis 1er Cru, which accounts for around 80 per cent of Gimonnet’s production. “This is the wine that we give priority to by choosing all the components we need, as this is the Gimonnet most widely enjoyed in the world,” says Didier Gimonnet. “It’s like our business card and the standard-bearer of the house style. The creation of Cuis 1er Cru involves blending more than 50 wines, always from at least five vintages, from some of the most revered sites of Cuis.” Gimonnet’s vintage cuvees are made in very limited quantities and include two that were each awarded five stars by Winestate’s judging team - Cuvée Fleuron Brut 1er Cru France Blanc de Blancs Brut 2015 (noted for complexity and “spirit of the year” according to Gimonnet), and the Special Club 'Grand Terroirs De Chardonnay' 2014 (elegance and ageing potential). The high percentage of reserve wines has always been a distinctive aspect of Gimonnet. Unusually, all the 1.2 million reserve wines are kept under low pressure in 750ml bottles, an extremely rare technique in Champagne, rather than stainless steel tanks. Non-vintage wines get at least three years on lees, with vintage wines up to five years. And Gimonnet leaves nothing to hide – it’s all there on the label: vineyard details, percentage of reserve wines, disgorgement date, total disclosure. A label designed by farmers. Opposite page: The scenic Vignobles Cuis - été 2020. Right, top to bottom: Carte Larmat Côte des Blancs, Gimonnet champagne caps, Three generations of Gimonnet’s from left to right, Olivier, Didier and Pierre. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 33
Pol Roger PERFECTING THE ART OF CHAMPAGNE NIGEL HOPKINS POL Roger might have an international reputation as a “British” about visiting Champenoise, Christian built a large and loyal champagne, not least because of its “By Appointment” to the British following both in the trade and among loyal customers and was royal family, served at numerous royal weddings, and that it was a huge success for the Pol Roger brand. much loved by Sir Winston Churchill, but it could also as much be There’s another happy coincidence. Pol Roger is imported considered an “Australian” champagne. into Australia by Samuel Smith & Son, owned by Yalumba. Both True, we never had an ambassador for Pol Roger to match Yalumba and Pol Roger were founded in 1849 and both remain Churchill, who is said to have drunk some 42,000 bottles in his family owned, each now entering their sixth generation. life. Hardly surprising that Pol Roger’s finest There has been Pol Roger was originally founded in the vintage cuvée is named after the politician and evolution, too, town of Aÿ by the then 18-year-old Pol that its cellar door street address was renamed in Pol Roger’s Roger under the single name of Roger. 1 Rue de Winston Churchill in his honour. winemaking regime: In 1851, the company moved to Épernay “Not a revolution,” where it still resides. At first it did not own But Australia did have the legendary Bob vineyards and produced exclusively for McLean, who began his career in the wine says company other large houses such as Perrier Jouët industry in the 1970s working with Orlando, president Laurent or Moët & Chandon, but by 1855 Pol who distributed Pol Roger in Australia. d’Harcourt, “but Roger had acquired his own vineyards McLean would become Orlando’s national with different-sized and decided to produce sparkling wine PR manager and one of Pol Roger’s finest tanks, temperature under his own label, focussing on brut ambassadors. control and cold champagne since this was the kind the settling, where it British preferred. As the noted UK wine writer Jancis Robinson wrote after McLean died in used to be more While Pol Roger remains one of 2015: “He took to PR like a duck to water grape by grape, the largest family-owned houses in at Orlando, where he eventually became cru by cru, now Champagne, it is one of the smaller responsible for promoting Pol Roger in the the fermentation of the grand marques, about half the Australian market, taking it from number process is terroir size of Bollinger, for example, with total 12 to number three in the Australian wine production of around 1.5 million bottles industry. Bob was rumoured to have a by terroir. or 125,000 cases – of which about a tasting allocation of a pallet per annum.” tenth is allocated to Australia, placing us as its sixth biggest market. And while Churchill was happy to say, “My tastes are simple, I am easily satisfied with Of this, just over 90 per cent is the the best,” McLean’s motto was: “Never give non-vintage white foil Brut Reserve, away a bottle with the cork in it.” Those who made from equal parts of pinot noir, attended his memorable lunches wondered if he hadn’t managed to give away Pol chardonnay and pinot meunier. While Roger’s entire profits. Pol Roger makes a higher proportion of vintage champagne than The other person who cemented Pol Roger’s foothold in the most houses, the volumes are still relatively very small with less Australian market was fourth generation Christian Pol Roger, than 1500 cases annually allocated to Australia. who made frequent visits to Australia as a roving ambassador These include the Brut Vintage (60 per cent pinot noir, 40 per for the house, the last in 2008. While there was nothing new cent chardonnay) produced only in exceptional years and a Blanc 34 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
de Blanc (100 per cent chardonnay from a single year) – the 2013 vintages of each awarded five stars by Winestate judges, as was the zero dosage and very dry Pol Roger Pure Extra Brut NV. There is also a Vintage Rosé (50 per cent pinot noir, 34 per cent chardonnay and 16 per cent vin rouge) – and, of course, the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill: there is an agreement between Pol Roger and the Churchill family not to disclose the varietals. It is, however, produced on the lowest and coolest level of the 7km long cellars of Pol Roger, sitting at a consistent 9C, along with a stock of some two million bottles of Pol Roger maturing for up to four years for the non-vintage and seven years for vintage wines. Unusually for one of the grand houses, Pol Roger continues to riddle by hand, taking three weeks longer to complete the process than producers using the gyropallette. Today, Pol-Roger owns about 100ha of vineyards in the Vallée d’Épernay as well as the Côte des Blancs, which are all family managed and provide about half of the required grapes, with the rest coming from up to 150 growers. There has been evolution, too, in Pol Roger’s winemaking regime: “Not a revolution,” says company president Laurent d’Harcourt, “but with different-sized tanks, temperature control and cold settling, where it used to be more grape by grape, cru by cru, now the fermentation process is terroir by terroir.” Renovations to the cellars and the building of a new production hall has given the company’s winemakers the capacity to vinify many more lots separately and, d’Harcourt adds, “to give us more precise possibilities for the blending” – the all-important art of champagne. Top to bottom: A selection of Pol Roger champagne, exterior of the chateau, Pol Roger Reserve Brut, riddling by hand in the cellars of Pol Roger. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 35
PIPERS CALLS THE TUNE TASSIE DUO A PERFECT SPARKLING MATCH 36 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
WINSOR DOBBIN PIPERS Brook and associated budget Kreglinger took majority ownership of Pipers and worked vintages in Central Victoria, brand Ninth Island have been flagbearers Brook back in 2001 and the winery and cellar Canada and Germany before settling in for decades as Tasmania has attracted door setting could hardly be more striking. Tasmania. He was working as a vintage worldwide interest for the quality of its cool- Pipers Brook is situated in Pipers River, an winemaker in South Australia immediately climate wines. outpost of the Tamar Valley wine region and before accepting a 3 month vintage part of the Tamar Valley Wine Route. winemaker gig at Pipers Brook in 2016. He Established in 1974, Pipers Brook is one of was soon given a permanent position with the state’s prime movers – making over 90,000 Regional pioneers Andrew and David assistance at the start from Peter Dredge cases a year in good vintages under labels Pirie established Pipers Brook Vineyard and Natalie Fryar “both with a wealth of including premium sparkling wine brand in 1973 in Pipers River - about twenty- local knowledge,” as well as pinot expert Kreglinger – named after the family company. three kilometres east of the small town of and consultant Jim Chatto. George Town and around 45 minutes from Pipers Brook has close to two hundred Launceston in the north of Tasmania. The “There was a bit of fortune involved,” Whittle hectares of vines – huge by Tasmania’s population is fewer than 500 people but the recalls. “I wanted to get back to make the boutique standards. quality of the local wineries pulls in wine style of cool-climate wines that I had made tourists from around the world. back at home in New Zealand. Those are For Belgian-owned wool and sheepskin the wines I am passionate about making, so I business Kreglinger, headed by the The wines are Tasmanian with a European did vintages in Canada and Germany before Launceston-based de Moor family, the accent. The terroir is like some of the planning to head back to New Zealand. Pipers Brook business – and associated premium wine regions in France. In addition cellar door – are a major focus. to the estate there is a small urban vineyard “I did my three months here – and then in Launceston – historic Mount Pleasant never really left. Making sparkling wines The de Moor family are related to Estate - with over sixty different clones of and pinots are what really interested me, the owners of the respected Chateau pinot noir from around the world, as well as so I am certainly in the right place. Vieux Certan in Bordeaux, owners of vines in the West Tamar. the respected Chateau Vieux Certan in “There is just so much potential and so Bordeaux, hence paying homage with the In Pipers River, self-guided tastings of many great wines coming out of the state name New Certan for a premium single the wines as well as takeaway and dine-in that it is great to be involved in what is vineyard pinot noir. bottle sales are offered on the winery’s happening in Tasmania. It is an awesome behalf via Nadine’s Café. opportunity. Pipers Brook has undergone several changes, and regular changes of winemaker, Winemaker Luke Whittle grew up in the “As time has progressed, I’ve fallen more over its close to half a century of existence but “awesome little town” of Whangamata on and more in love with the state and with the Luke Whittle is the current chief winemaker the Coromandel Peninsula in New Zealand wines we are producing here.” with the business overseen by Paul de Moor. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 37
\"KREGLINGER TOOK MAJORITY OWNERSHIP OF PIPERS BROOK BACK IN 2001 AND THE WINERY AND CELLAR DOOR SETTING COULD HARDLY BE MORE STRIKING.\" 38 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
Whittle says he has made small but Ray Guerin and Fred Strachan, and the through generations. Paul de Moor’s great significant changes. “We’ve made some ongoing improvement and investment into grandfather, Georges Thienpont, was a changes in winemaking style. It was not the vines is managed by Kym Ayliffe, who successful wine merchant who purchased an upheaval overnight; it has been more of was appointed viticulturist in 2019. Vieux Chateau Certan in 1924. an evolution. I think we are really starting to get consistency in the wines that we Projections for new plantings are Nearly a century later, the Pomerol property are producing. underway, but there are no plans to look remains in the family’s hands, with de Moor’s at alternative varieties. cousin Alexandre Thienpont in charge. “One of the biggest changes has been investment into the vineyards – particularly “We need more chardonnay fruit and Highly regarded Chateau Le Pin, located between 2016 and 2017 - so we can get more pinot fruit,” Whittle says. “We will be nearby, is owned by another cousin, the most out of all the really magical sites looking to get more premium pinot into the Jacques Thienpont, underlining the family’s we have here. ground rather than anything else. We’ve love of the wine industry. got vacant land close to some of our best “I’m still learning something new every sites that should perform really well.” Pipers Brook is carrying on that tradition vintage in that continuing quest to make and is one of the largest Tasmanian-owned the absolute best wines that we can. The Pipers Brook business is an wine estates. interesting diversion for Kreglinger, a “Having access to fruit from different company that was founded in Antwerp Pipers Brook Vineyard is today home sites is excellent when we are blending back in 1797 as a trading company. to five labels: Pipers Brook Estate, Ninth wines like the Pipers Brook Estate Pinot Island, Kreglinger Sparkling, New Certan Noir. They all have their really interesting Kreglinger Europe engages in the food Pinot Noir and the newest addition being specific characteristics and personalities, and beverage, cosmetics, pharmaceutical, the Pipers Tasmania range, which is a so that gives us a lot of options. plastic, rubber, logistics and petroleum modern expression of the more traditional products industries. estate wines. For details see www. “The winemaking is fairly traditional, but kreglingerwineestates.com we are certainly looking to highlight those Kreglinger Australia was established outstanding parcels of fruit and then getting in Keilor, Victoria, in 1893 with interests Previous pages: Pipers Brook vineyard, a selection of the fundamentals right in the winery.” in the lambskin trade, land development Pipers Brook pinot noir. and real estate, as well as the bottling of Above: Pipers Brook wines. The vineyard rejuvenation program wine and rainwater. Opposite page left to right top to bottom: Winemaker was headed by legendary viticulturist Luke Whittle, Pipers Brook wine, Luke Whittle in the The de Moor family has wine links back barrel room, New Certan pinot noir wine, walking out to the vineyard. November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 39
hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS AS the current travel restricted situation Kongers. Focusing on Japan’s southern- Causeway Bay, Hong Kong, www. in Hong Kong really does not look like most archipelago, Okinawa, Awa Awa cphongkong.com it’s going away for the foreseeable also incorporates elements from Chinese, (mandatory two or three weeks of Hawaiian, Mexican and Taiwanese From the brains behind Épure and Arbor quarantine in a designated hotel at cuisine, all set to match with Okinawa’s comes Ami, a ‘fine bistronomie’ which personal expense at the time of writing), national liquor, Awamori. brings together fancy Parisian cuisine everyone’s resigned themselves to with (thankfully) an approachable and staying put for a while longer. Founded by resident sake and whisky laid-back dining experience. Helmed expert, Elliot Faber, Awa Awa’s colourful by Executive Chef Nicolas Boutin and Fortunately (and we do have to look at the interior, friendly staff and punchy cocktails Chef de Cuisine Eric Taluy, expect positives in all of this), it has led to a slew are sure to win anyone over. The fresh fish bistro classics infused with all the of new restaurant and bar openings, led by tostadas, octopus salad and even the sophistication of French fine dining. entrepreneurs who can see the advantage Spam sando were all stand out dishes. of having a literal captive audience. Signature dishes include the likes of Awa Awa, 42-44, Peel Street, Central, hand-cut beef tartare, richly flavoured Hong Kong has always been a food- Hong Kong, awaawahk.com Fisherman’s soup and the sumptuous lover’s paradise and the below three French guinea fowl paired with octopus are just a few of an all-star cast of new For those looking to push the boat out a and a caramel jus, along with a show- dining options. bit, head over to Giacomo at the Crowne stopping whisky-infused 64% Chocolate Plaza in Causeway Bay. Headed up by ‘Concorde’ dessert. Peel Street newcomer Awa Awa Michelin-trained chef Keith Yam, whose officially opened its doors in August and past credits include the award-winning Opening in tandem with Ami is the has become an absolute neighbourhood Tosca di Angeló at The Ritz-Carlton and restaurant’s whisky-forward bar, Wood hit with Japanese-food obsessed Hong 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Giacomo Ear, which has over 400 rare labels describes itself as a ‘neo-classic Italian sourced from Scotland, Japan and fine dining room’ with an emphasis on beyond: a whisky-lover’s paradise indeed. seasonal ingredients. Ami, Shop 302, Alexandra House, 18 Highlights include the Brittany blue Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong, www. lobster Sardinian gnocchi, red prawn ami-woodear.hk spaghetti chitarra and the gorgeous New Zealand langoustine. Top left: Food from Awa Awa restaurant. Bottom leftt: Food from Giacomo restaurant. Giacomo, G/F, Crowne Plaza Hong Middle right: Food from Ami restaurant. Kong Causeway Bay, 8 Leighton Road, 40 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
perthgrapevine BERLINDA CONTI AROUND 10 years ago, I was invited to Bali cultured cheeses alongside similar styles to rare Alice & Olivier De Moor Chablis, and to celebrate a friend’s 40th birthday and, like made locally in WA. almost extinct grape varietals from Partida most parties abroad, the five-day itinerary Creus in Catalunya. included a special dinner at the hottest seat As expected, cocktails (many infused with in town – Sarong. native botanicals or spicy eastern notes), Big respect to the sound provenance share the limelight here, along with locally here. The speakers are vintage Tannoy Being the kind of person who prefers to made rice beer, and carefully paired wines studio monitors which are powered by eat off-grid when traipsing through Asia, I (choose from a 100-strong wine list) that an old Yamaha amp previously owned by went along, secretly wishing I could stay in complement the spicier dishes on the menu. musician, sound engineer and owner of my bathers, sit by the beach (on a plastic Sydney’s legendary Paradise Recording chair) and eat what the local wurrung was The venue features banquette seating, Studio – Billy Field. dishing up that day. a sprawling bar and open kitchen, split between a dining room and a no- Field recorded albums by the likes of Cold But boy, I’m glad I stuck with the program. reservations bar for walk-ins. Meyrick Chisel, INXS, Icehouse and The Divinyls at No disrespect to my favourite beach hut, intentionally chose a warm and rustic interior his studio using Casa’s now resident amp. but Sarong was on-par with what I can only to celebrate the Australian landscape via describe as an entirely spiritual experience pops of sunset orange, thick sandstone Casa, 399 Oxford Street, Mount Hawthorn. – and to this day, I still marvel at the banquet walls, Blackbutt timber flooring and dried Email bookings only: relax@casa-casa- we devoured on that fragrantly balmy eve wildflowers suspended from the ceiling. casa.com. Open Tuesday to Thursday, (not to mention the next-level cocktails). 4pm til late; Friday to Sunday, 12pm til late. So, you can imagine my delight, when I Will St, 228 Carr Place, Leederville. Open Opening for breakfast by end of 2021. heard Will Meyrick, the mastermind behind Wednesday to Sunday. Sarong, and the equally adored, Mama Also check-out Nieuw Ruin, a wine-centric San (which has since reopened in Bali) had A little further north along Oxford Street is wine bar featuring an eclectic list of around relocated to Perth with his family to launch the keenly anticipated wine bar, bottle shop, 300+ entries, bespoke cocktails and a his new venture, Will St – a 120-seat wine café and bistro all rolled into one - Casa. diverse menu of relaxed snacks and heartier bar and restaurant celebrating his extensive dishes that honour ‘sustainably-sourced’ and travels and scrap-book entries filed with Backed by the savvy smarts of Alex ‘hyper-local’ produce; also visit Jetty Bar recipe-scribes from the outermost corners Cuccovia (El Publico, Ace Pizza, Late Fremantle, super-casual, riverside dining of Asia; from the migratory food culture of Night Valentine), Si Paradiso chef Paul offering a seasonally curated menu of around the northern hill tribes of Nagaland in India, Bentley (a Perth local who moved back 15 flavour-packed bites, toe-tapping tunes and those along the spice routes of Northern from Sydney last year), and Sydney-based and sunny, upbeat staff (no bookings/walk-ins Africa; to the recipes handed down through chef, Enrico Tomelleri (Fratelli Paradiso only). Nieuw Ruin, 12 Norfolk Street Fremantle. the generations that are shared at family and 10 William Street), Casa is intended Email: [email protected]. Open Wednesday dinner tables across Asia - and not to mention to be an all-day neighbourhood café and to Sunday, midday - late. Jetty Bar, Fremantle, Meyrick’s 20-year tenure living in Indonesia. bar, inspired by the charming and convivial 126 Beach Street East Fremantle. Just shy of opening in late September, haunts that characterise the streets and Will St is thrumming with enthusiasm from laneways of Europe. Top left: Interior of Nieuw Ruin bar and restaurant. Perth locals, particularly those who are not Bottom right: Food from Nieuw Ruin bar. only yearning to revisit Bali, but Meyrick’s Comfy aesthetics and lived-in simplicity are indelible cuisine. the intended vibes here, and with a penchant The menu is an exotic foray of small plates for organic and biodynamic wines, expect and shared dishes that nod to indigenous to find a stellar selection of familiar and Australian ingredients but honour the lesser-known varieties - also on tap, and all enormous flavour spectrum of Asia’s heritage stored across nine wine fridges - kept at four and cuisine. Meyrick says tribal food – its temperatures, according to wine style. provenance and its cultural significance - underscores the menu’s direction and A little bit of Mexican, French and Italian flavour. Try the local Asian cured meats and define the menu at Casa. Terrine and pâté fermented sausage, burrata naan bread and en croute, half roast chicken with mole sauce, burnt lemon and frites, or spaghetti alla chitarra with uni butter, get our vote. Settle in with a “clean and pure” Sam Vinciullo Sauvignon Blanc from Margaret River, an electric Guttarolo Rosato from Puglia, November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 41
adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS THERE’S always going to be a level of of the Peel St style. Alternatively, from the Appellation at The Louise in the Barossa anxiety when the both the ownership so-called smaller menu and just as flavour Valley. Murphy’s menu has a strong bias and chef of one of the city’s best-loved packed, are the pork and chive dumplings towards classic French technique, not quite restaurants both change at the same time, with steamed prawns and sizzling spring as pared back as cuisine nouvelle used but in the case of Peel St that anxiety has onion in a broth laced with chilli oil, and to be, with servings that tend to be on the proven to be unfounded. masses of fresh coriander on top. small side but adequate and exquisite. Peel St was founded in 2013 when the More substantial, and definitely a dish to There are $90 or $125 tasting menus plus former Aquacaf team of chef Jordan share, is the richly delicious coconut braised an a la carte menu, depending on how Theodoros and Ben McLeod joined with beef, on a bed of green papaya salad with ambitious you want to be. You can start with chef Martin Corcoran in what was then fried peanuts and a nam jim dressing, and a slice of brioche-style bread with chicken almost a pioneer restaurant venture in an a pile of betel leaves on the side to wrap it fat butter, great tasting but you might wish unloved and rather decrepit alley in the heart all up. After all this, dessert won’t be a high for something more substantial for mopping of the CBD. Now, of course, it’s the heart of a priority but the chocolate tart with blood up the delicious sauces yet to come. thriving bar and restaurant scene and Peel St orange sorbet and pistachio halva is almost went on to widespread acclaim. irresistible. Peel St, 9 Peel St, Adelaide. A typical entrée is thin tendrils of calamari Open for lunch Monday, Wednesday to from Kangaroo Island seared on a hibachi The restaurant had a pared back, semi- Friday, dinner Monday, Wednesday to grill, tossed with kaffir lime oil, with lime industrial style, fairly radical for the period, Saturday. Phone (08) 8231 8887. juice and lemon verbena, and a hemp with exposed beams and brick walls, seed and rice milk crème. Alternatively try and a long polished concrete bar. But One of the more anticipated restaurant the goat’s cheese agnoletti in a burnt onion what distinguished it most, and still does, openings in Adelaide this year has been that broth with chive oil. was the vibrancy of its cooking. It was of Eleven, the latest venture by business said that if acclaimed British chef Yotam partners dietitian Themis Chryssidis and Main courses include crisply pan-seared Ottolenghi were to come to town, this is chef (and former MasterChef star) Callum Murray cod with steamed mussels and where he’d go to eat, but he would also Hann. It’s the second restaurant started by the yellow bean sauce, and grilled waygu have to join the queue. Chefs Theodoros pair, who co-founded Sprout Cooking School skirt steak from Mayura Station, with and Corcoran dispensed his sort of food in 2011, with Lou’s Place at Lou Miranda roasted celeriac and almond puree, - ravishing, fresh, full-flavoured dishes, Estate opened in the Barossa Valley in 2020. topped with green peppercorn sauce strongly Mediterranean but with a healthy and sorrel leaves. Eleven, 11 Waymouth dash of Middle Eastern energy and spice. Eleven is located right at the heart of Street, Adelaide. Open for lunch Tuesday Adelaide’s CBD and already looks to be to Friday and Sunday, dinner Wednesday Cut to late 2021 and enter emerging taking over as the hot place for top end to Saturday. Phone (08) 7008 0222. hospitality investor Jay Patel, who has been lunchtime diners. Its large south-facing actively investing in Adelaide’s dining scene windows overlook an internal plaza and Top: Chocolate tart from Peel Street. during the Covid-19 pandemic, acquiring courtyard, with the sprawling Eleven Bottom right: King George Whiting from Eleven. Press Food & Wine and taking a major open air bar and café that opened some stake in Leigh Street Wine Room, both months earlier on the far side, providing highly acclaimed establishments and both everything from morning coffee to lunch within a stone’s throw of Peel St. and post-dinner drinks. Recognising the unique nature of Peel St’s But its inside Eleven that you get a sense of offering, owner Patel has sensibly retained the serious intent and style of this restaurant, sous chef Phil Helyard, who worked under with a gorgeous and clearly expensive fitout Theodoros and Corcoran for more than five with forest green walls, brown banquettes, years and knows not just the style and content dark marble, quiet and calm, with an open of their dishes, but the thinking behind them. kitchen extending along the whole northern And with former co-owner Ben McLeod still wall. It’s not unusual to see almost the entire running the floor, it’s fair to say the transition kitchen brigade lined up along its length post- has been pretty well seamless. lunch, shucking oysters for the next service. The menu is divided into smaller and There’s also very serious intent in the larger dishes, but as Helyard says; “There’s kitchen, headed by executive chef Dan nothing definitely small”. In fact, servings Murphy who, with sommelier Geoffrey are generous and most main courses can Hunt, worked previously at the acclaimed easily feed two. A good start is the tuna sashimi with a soy, sesame and daikon dressing decorated with celery tops and crisp fish skin – a terrific mix of flavours, textures and colours, very typical 42 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
ALPINE VALLEYS HUNTER VALLEY MARGARET RIVER SingleVineyard Small BatchWines Available online All wines available in our online store @ goldmanwines.com.au [email protected] @goldmanwines November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 43
W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000 WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600 2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560 2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250 1970 $400 Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330 1971 $720 1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280 1972 $400 1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450 1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480 1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350 1975 $460 1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300 1990 $130 1976 $850 1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360 1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320 1978 $380 1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110 1997 $300 1993 $100 1980 $380 1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400 1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380 1995 $130 1983 $480 1998 $85 1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390 1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110 2006 $180 1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120 2007 Not Released 1998 $130 1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130 2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130 1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120 2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140 2002 $120 1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190 1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140 2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250 2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180 2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95 2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160 2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100 2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95 2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120 2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190 2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85 Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90 1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320 1995 $100 2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280 2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250 2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110 2000 $65 2001 $110 2003 $110 2005 $110 2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120 2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110 2006 $120 1990 $250 2008 $85 1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210 2009 $85 1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220 2010 $100 1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95 2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85 2009 $95 2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100 Chardonnay 2002 $220 1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230 1992 $600 1998 $140 ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220 1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140 Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210 1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85 1990 $90 1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000 1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85 1994 $85 1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200 2003 $500 1965 $600 2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550 1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250 2004 $75 1997 $200 2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75 2010 $70 44 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Follow us and keep up to Shiraz 2005 $5,700 E. Guigal La Turque date with all our latest 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage wine info, tastings and 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 events on facebook, 1993 $90 1991 $850 twitter and instagram. 1994 $120 1992 $270 1995 $110 1993 $240 Connect on social with 1996 $160 Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 Winestate 1997 $85 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1998 $160 1996 $260 www.facebook.com/Winestate- 1999 $100 1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 Magazine 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 2001 $100 1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 twitter.com/winestateed 2002 $150 1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 www.instagram.com/winestate/ 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500 2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 www.winestate.com.au 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650 2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550 1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200 1996 $800 de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500 1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800 1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800 1999 $750 1991 $1,900 1997 $380 1882 $1,800 2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200 2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1893 $1,200 2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1899 $1,200 2003 $600 1995 $3,500 2001 $250 1901 $700 2004 $850 1996 $3,100 2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950 1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600 1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500 1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500 Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200 2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140 1996 $1,400 2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650 2008 $2,400 1994 $130 1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80 2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75 2002 $600 1997 $350 2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200 WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280 Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500 2004 $280 1980 $180 Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280 1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700 2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000 1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190 1998 $4,800 2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700 2001 $4,500 2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320 2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200 1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370 1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 45
travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN CLARE VALLEY CITY HOTEL GROUP GOES building comprises reception, restaurant first established in 1878. Knappstein REGIONAL and bar, and accommodation rooms. Wines’ Tania Matz believes the renovations There are another three single-storey will breathe new life into the property and THE Elanor Hotels group is probably best accommodation buildings and one single Knappstein brand. known for owning city hotels in Adelaide storey conference centre. (including the Mayfair and the Adabco) “We’re thrilled with the renovations,\" she and in Canberra. Over the past couple of The property was initially constructed said. \"It’s exciting to now have a cellar door years, however, Elanor has also acquired in 1994 with subsequent additions that matches Knappstein’s rich history and properties in two South Australian wine undertaken in 1996 and 1999. The dual enviable winemaking reputation.” regions: the Barossa Weintal and the Clare key apartments were constructed in 2011. Country Club. There are several room sizes available, The new cellar door sales and tasting along with pet-friendly accommodation. room has moved from the north side of the Clare Country Club is an upper midscale See www.clarecountryclub.com.au Enterprise Brewery to the long frontage hotel with 64 rooms, making it one of of the building, giving visitors a more the largest hotels in the region. It is SUPER SNAZZY CELLAR expansive space to enjoy a Knappstein located in the north of the Clare township DOOR tasting experience. The focal point of the approximately 135 kilometres north of room is a long granite tasting bench to be Adelaide and within proximity to many of THE historic Knappstein Wines site in the used for guided tastings. In the south end the world-class cellar doors. Clare Valley is now one of the snazziest of the room is a seating area, giving guests cellar door facilities in South Australia. the space to relax with a glass of wine or a The property has Conner’s restaurant and There are three newly renovated cellar door ‘build your own’ platter with fresh produce bar (where the menu is complemented by venues on the heritage-listed site, which is from local providores. an extensive wine list that is exclusively open seven days a week 10am-4pm. comprised of Clare Valley wines), The north end of the room is sectioned conference centre and function rooms, The new Knappstein tasting room more off by a floor-to-ceiling display, creating a tennis court, swimming pool and spa, as than triples Knappstein’s tasting room semi-private area for large group tastings well as a gymnasium. It is also adjacent to capacity where visitors can enjoy red and events. The design of the renovations the 18-hole Clare golf course. and riesling flights. There is also the new highlights the room’s original features, Knappstein wine lounge and underground like the structural timber beams in the The property is configured to comprise cellar. bulkhead and original sandstone facade 10 low-rise buildings across the site. of the building. Ten dual key apar tments (20 room This is the first major renovation of keys) are configured over five single- the property in the last 15 years and Knappstein’s new wine lounge takes level buildings located at the southern spans the entirety of the heritage-listed over the site's original tasting room and end of the site. The two-storey main Enterprise Brewery building, which was repurposes the space into a cosy retreat for guests. Visitors can access the wine lounge through the new tasting room, or via the north side of the building, allowing for the space to be used as a private venue for small events. There are two dedicated wine lounge areas, with seating surrounding the functioning fireplace and an additional seating area for large groups. One corner of the space is dedicated to a large display unit, which will prominently feature Knappstein’s recent awards and historical memorabilia. For the first time in the property’s history, Knappstein is opening to the public its underground cellar. Accessed through the main stairs of the new wine lounge, the underground cellar will be a unique 46 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
travelbriefs space for Knappstein’s major events, live bike track and walking paths. Take a ride affair, all sleek lines and angles with the music performances, private tastings and on the train or simply enjoy the surrounds. organic touch of ironstone and timber. dinner functions. The train operates every second and fourth weekend of each month only. See There is a lunch menu with strong “We are very excited about the potential www.cvme.org.au. focus on seasonality and provenance of uses for the underground cellar and it will produce from the region. Think dishes be a fantastic space to enjoy during the STAY AND SMELL THE like popcorn cauliflower with buffalo winter months when we host live music FLOWERS IN CLARE sauce, hand-cut pappardelle with lamb events or special tastings,” Matz said. ragout for your entreé and then enjoy THE entire Clare Valley region is dotted a beef striploin steak with shiraz jus. Towards the back of the cellar, Knappstein with picturesque cottages that can be The 'Feed Me' option features a three- has created an exclusive museum display rented by visitors to the region. course meal of whatever is fresh, or if room to house the winery’s back vintages. you'd prefer something a little lighter, The brand has had several owners over the Riesling Trail and Clare Valley Cottages try the gourmet platters. See www. past three decades. For information visit feature five one-bedroom bed and olearywalkerwines.com. www.knappstein.com.au. breakfast cottages situated 700 metres off the Main North Road on a block of SOMETHING FOR THE KIDS natural bushland at the foot of the Clare Valley. Located on the Riesling Trail, the WINE lovers can combine their tasting with cottages are close to bike riding and a treat for the kids with a visit to a model walking trails. Bike hire can be arranged. railway. The Clare Valley Model Engineers have a railway with over one kilometre of Choose from Rose, Daisy, Iris, Lily track that features several bridges and or Violet Cottages, with each self- a tunnel in a 10-hectare park. The park contained stone cottage including a includes a large lake, playground, a BMX luxury bathroom with a two-person spa. The cottages accommodate two guests with queen-sized beds. All have combustion wood fires in the winter season and access to Weber barbecues. See www.rtcvcottages.com.au DINE AND DRINK IN STYLE Opposite page top left: Exterior of the Clare Valley Country Club. ONE of the best winery dining options in the Clare Valley is at O’Leary Walker Top: Interior of the new Knappstein cellar door. Wines, which was established in 2000 Bottom left: Clare Valley model engineers. by winemakers David O’Leary and Nick Above right: Exterior of O'Leary Walker Wines. Walker. The cellar door is a modern-looking November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 47
CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS 68 TASTED 56 AWARDED CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS This is a unique SA region that flies beyond the usual offerings Kirrihill Wines from Barossa and McLaren Vale. Known as the standout iconic Partner Series Clare riesling centre it is also home to great cabernets, mid-weight Valley Riesling 2020 shiraz and increasingly some nice alternative reds. HHHH1/2 96pts Fresh fragrances of OTHER Artwine Wicked RIESLING cut flowers, limes and WHITES Stepmother Single lemons and a long, Vineyard Clare 18 TASTED intense and seamlessly 4 TASTED Valley Fiano 2021 15 AWARDED balanced flavours 4 AWARDED HHHH 94pts layered with fine Attractive concentration Strong, solid and mineral-like characters. A small solid class of floral/apple aromas consistent class as to $29.99 of varietals. “A good and a weighty palate be expected from this Reillys Museum example of other with juicy lemon flavours region. Release Watervale varietals coming from and delicate acidity. $35 Clare Valley this region,” said one Riesling 2016 judge. Black Stump Single St Amand Clare Paulett Wines Clare HHHH1/2 96pts Vineyard Clare Valley Riesling 2021 Valley Riesling 2021 Preserved lemon Artwine Prego Valley Viognier 2010 HHHHH 98pts HHHHH 98pts characters on the nose Single Vineyard HHH1/2 92pts A solid wine with a Lifted bouquet of green with a floral lift, some Clare Valley Pinot Aged but vibrant lovely, lifted blend apples with a floral/ toastiness and kero Grigio 2021 biscuity/marmalade of citrus and floral perfumed edge. A tight notes. Has a buttery HHHH 94pts nose with honeysuckle aromas. Good balance, elegant mineral-like toasty and savoury A good example of the flavours on a slightly oily weight and flavour palate with good length palate. Years in it yet! $40 variety for this region. textured palate. $28 concentration to the of pure riesling flavours Claymore Wines Very well balanced with Matriarch & Rogue pure citrus driven palate showing hints of Joshua Tree Clare stonefruit aromas and Bob Single Vineyard with elegant punchy sweetness. $25 Valley Riesling quince-like flavours. $25 Clare Valley Fiano acidity. $18 Erin Eyes 2021 HHHH 94pts 2021 HHH 91pts Emerald Isle Clare A very interesting Pretty floral fragrances Riesling 2021 wine exhibiting intense with quite a savoury HHHH1/2 96pts aromas and layers of palate and a warming Pretty complexity of lemon, toast, spice, finish. $28 spicy citrus aromas with ginger and lemon a perfectly balanced, flavours. $22 lovely youthful, acid- Paulett Wines Polish centric lime flavoured Hill River Clare palate with a steely Valley Riesling 2021 elegance to it. $25 HHHH 94pts The nose is a flinty freshness of cut fruit and floral fragrances with a palate enriched with a purity of fleshy fruit flavours. $30 JUDGES Will Shields Emma Walker Michael Kane Winemaker for Sevenhill Winemaker for Claymore Senior winemaker, Wines. 25 years as a Wines. Has judged in Knappstein Wines. winemaker, with stints at the New England wine Completed the AWAC Vasse Felix and Clairault show and Australian course in 2010. in Margaret River and The Small Winemakers Previously winemaker Wine Portfolio in New show. Completed AWAC at Devil’s Lair WA (7 Zealand. Then joined Kirrihill in 2014. Has a Bachelor years), Stella Bella in Clare from 2016 until of Applied Science/ and Wolf Blass Wines. 2019. Viticulture from CSU. Also completed WSET level 2 and 3 in 2014. 48 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
rreeggi oi onnaal l ttaasstti ni ngg Gomersal Wines Kirrihill Wines E.B's Artwine Pack Leader Artwine Leave Sevenhill lnigo Premium Clare The Settler Of Clare Single Vineyard Your Hat On Clare Barbera 2019 Valley Riesling 2020 Clare Valley Riesling Clare Valley Single Vineyard HHHH 94pts HHHH 94pts 2021 HHH 90pts Cabernet Franc 2020 Clare Valley “Well done – very Pretty nose of subtle Elevated floral fruit HHHHH 98pts Montepulciano 2020 Italian,” said one judge. spicy/sweet citrus fragrances and an “Looks like a young HHHH1/2 96pts Light lifted sour cherry aromas with a citrus interesting apple-like Bordeaux!” according A gorgeous wine with aromas and flavours. driven palate, great line flavour profile. $35 to one judge. Distinctive chocolaty/blackberry nose Nice acidity and fine of acid and a savoury varietal blackcurrant and great stalky esters. tannins. $28 textured finish. $20 ROSÉ nose with an herbal Perfectly structured Matriarch & Rogue Gaelic Cemetery thread. Great varietal palate with generous Jean Single Vineyard Vineyard Celtic Farm 2 TASTED palate with spot on fruit flavours and tannins Clare Valley Malbec Clare Valley Riesling 2 AWARDED acid and tannins. Great bringing it all together. $38 2019 HHH1/2 92pts 2020 HHHH 94pts ageing potential. $38 Artwine The Grace A true to variety. A Some complexity The judges found these Single Vineyard malbec fruit nose and developing on the were a couple of good Clare Valley nice and soft in the slightly tropical nose examples of rosé from Graciano 2020 mouth with slightly with a maturing sweet the region that are fresh HHHH 94pts green esters and full fruit palate balanced by and lively, vibrant and A savoury style with a tannins. $28 lovely juicy acidity. $25 cool. slight meatiness to the Reillys Dry Land Mitchell McNicol nose and a peppery Clare Valley Clare Valley Riesling Paulett Wines Clare plum palate juicy in the Tempranillo 2019 2012 HHHH 94pts Valley Sangiovese mouth with lovely soft HHH1/2 92pts Botrytis driven nose - Rosé 2021 HHHH tannins. $32 Riper and softer deep all creamy toffee and 94pts purple wine that apricots with a sweet Pale pink wine with has sweet sour fruit desert style palate and strawberry aromas lifted characters, subtle oak a juicy line of acid to by some florals and a and drying tannins. $32 balance. $45 tight minerally palate Artwine Hola Single Knappstein Clare with vibrant blackcurrant Vineyard Clare Valley Riesling 2021 flavours. $25 Valley Tempranillo HHH1/2 92pts 2020 HHH 91pts Subtle sweet citrus Erin Eyes Celtic Great fruits of the forest fragrances and good Cross Cabernet Rose nose and a punchy flavour intensity with a Clare Rosé 2021 sweet fruit palate with balance between residual HHH1/2 92pts powerful tannins. $32 sugar and acid. $22 Perfect balance between Reillys Watervale herbaceous fruit, pretty Clare Valley Riesling strawberry characters 2021 HHH1/2 92pts and racy acidity. Very Pretty confectionery fruit drinkable. $30 nose and a full flavoured palate with a slight OTHER REDS sweetness to the drying finish. $28 10 TASTED 7 AWARDED Claymore Wines A consistent group STAR RATINGS Walk This Way Clare showing off the varietal Valley Riesling 2021 characters required. Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of HHH 91pts “Something for excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Floral citrus bouquet everyone,” said one All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry with a palate that, judge. professionals and are compared in peer according to one judge, classes by three judges. is more grapefruit than CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, anything. $22 a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. Mitchell Watervale CDO Cellar door only. Clare Valley Riesling SO Sold out. 2020 HHH 91pts $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Subtle herbal nose and Contact information pg 105. complex palate with great acid and a grippy RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). phenolic finish. $25 BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2021 W I N E S TAT E 49
CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS GRENACHE CABERNET Gaelic Cemetery Knappstein Clare Sevenhill Inigo Clare BLENDS Vineyard McAskill Valley Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon 3 TASTED Clare Valley Sauvignon 2019 2019 HHH1/2 92pts 2 AWARDED 5 TASTED Cabernet Malbec HHHHH 98pts Very regional; vary Two excellent wines that 5 AWARDED 2019 HHH1/2 92pts A gorgeous cabernet varietal. A big wine exhibited pristine fruit “Confrontingly varietal!” with a nose that is all offering a lovely mélange and refined winemaking. Very good class of Spicy blue fruit nose blackcurrant, chocolate of blue fruit and “A step away from other cabernet blends and perfectly textured and spices. Great weight capsicum characters. $28 over-the-top, overripe showing how the palate with attractive and balance to the grenache wines,” noted region can balance stalkiness. $55 palate that is intense Reillys Dry Land one judge. cabernet sauvignon with with flavour and has Clare Valley Paulett Wines varying varietals. “Clare Kirrihill Wines E.B's great tannins. $22 Cabernet Sauvignon Brielle Clare Valley cabernet is underrated,” The Peacemaker Of Kirrihill Wines 2018 HHH1/2 92pts Grenache 2020 thought one judge. “And Clare Clare Valley Partner Series Clare A nicely balanced old HHHH1/2 97pts it also offers great value Cabernet Shiraz Valley Cabernet school style of cabernet Pale purple wine that for money.” 2018 HHH1/2 92pts Sauvignon 2019 with lots of sweet black has refined herbaceous/ Not particularly varietal HHHH1/2 96pts fruits, warm spices and cherry aromas and Kirrihill Wines but a nice red wine A great wine from a vanilla oak. $38 delightfully pristine E.B's The Pastor starting to develop some difficult year. A riper varietal fruit palate of Clare Clare Valley aged characters. Drink style with a seamless Claymore Wines offering soft and Cabernet Malbec soon. $65 balance between the Bitter Sweet enjoyable drinking. $42 2018 “tingling” blue fruits, Symphony Clare HHHH1/2 97pts CABERNET chocolaty oak and drying Valley Cabernet Artwine Grumpy Old “Yummo!” was one SAUVIGNON tannins. $29.99 Sauvignon 2018 Man Single Vineyard judge’s response to Taylors St Andrews HHH 90pts Clare Valley this wine. Lovely and 9 TASTED Clare Valley Fragrances of forest Grenache 2020 soft and light bodied 8 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon floor and green HHHH1/2 96pts with purple/blue fruit 2019 undergrowth with soft Bright ruby red wine characters showing a Another consistent class HHHH1/2 96pts tannins on the leaner that has lovely lifted blue minty edge. Lively and of cabernet sauvignon Old school style. “A real style palate. $25 fruit aromas with just a long. $65 wines. “Clare cabernet wine – a champion,” suggestion toffee apple- is the best kept secret,” enthused one judge. It is Reillys Dry Land like notes. The palate Claymore Wines reiterated another of all blue fruits and purple Clare Valley is soft and fruity in the London Calling Clare the panel. “Viticulturally flowers with all the Cabernet Sauvignon mouth. $38 Valley Cabernet the region produces elements honoured. $75 2017 HHH 90pts Malbec 2019 perfect varietal cabernet Calcannia Clare A soft developed wine HHHH1/2 96pts characters without Valley Cabernet that still has some A big juicy ripe blend green fruit overtones Sauvignon 2019 obvious sweet fruit that has lovely layers, often suffered by other HHHH 94pts and offers pleasant depth and broodiness regions.” Subtle cassis nose with drinking. $38 with a perfect tannin a slight gamey note. structure. Quite Good, sweet dark fruit SHIRAZ & European looking. “Love flavours balanced by BLENDS this!” enthused one lively acid and drying judge. $22 tannins. $28 17 TASTED 13 AWARDED Paulett Wines Clare Valley Cabernet An excellent consistent Merlot 2019 class. “There is a lot less HHHH 94pts oak than previous years Generous cassis/forest which is a good thing,” fruit fragrances with a said one judge. “These depth and complexity younger wines are bright of delicious flavours and fruit driven; soft and showing lovely fruit juicy with mid-weight esters. $30 rather than full body structure.” However, some of the older wines did fail to perform because they either showed too much oak or had overripe fading fruit. 50 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2021
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