Winestate Magazine July August 2015

july/august 2015 WINESTATE VOL 38 ISSUE 4 CABERNET & Bordeaux McLAREN VALE FLEURIEU PENINSULA & surrounds clare valley TASMANIA Wairarapa, Nelson & Canterbury (NZ) print post approved 100003663 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE CLASSIC A GROWING TASTE CABERNET & FOR ORGANICS BORDEAUX The push to go green! 312BLENDS SLEEPING TASTED BEAUTIES The rise of Shingleback AGAINST THE ODDS Thailand’s emerging wine industry July / August 2015 256 TASTED Vol 38 Issue 4 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) McLAREN VALE NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 plus & FLEURIEU EUR 9.95 China RMB100 Clare Valley • McLaren Vale • Fleurieu Peninsula & Surrounds • Tasmania HKD $120 CHF 15.00 Organic Wines • Merlot • Wairarapa, Nelson & Canterbur y (NZ)





4 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015 MAKING YOUR PACKAGING IDEAS A REALITY

AUSTRALIAN & IMPORTEDCUSTOM MADE PACKAGING Proudly Australian since 1974 BANG PACKAGING Pty Ltd Ph: 1800 62 83 66 www.bangpackaging.com.au [email protected]

ers), Kanapee nr.27, www.bugholzmöbel.atTASTE CULTURE Gebrüder Thonet (Thonet Broth ”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

No.270 JULY/AUGUST 2015Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Designer Lisa McPike E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] A new AustralianTasting Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] blend.Printing DAI Rubicon DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated,Winestate Web Site E-mail: [email protected] yet refreshingly earthy new legal “blend” created by the formerWINESTATE New Zealand Administration partners of the respected South Australian firms of Donaldson WalshKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Fox Tucker.Contributors Our bold new offering is built on aNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley full-bodied foundation of vast generalSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins commercial experience, yet overlaidVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin with distinctive specialist expertiseWestern Australia Mike Zekulich in a number of key industries andQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel niche market sectors.New Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor Dobbin It’s a winning combination thatEurope André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW allows every client who opens aASIA Denis Gastin “case” to get exactly what they need. So whatever your businessADVERTISING SALES or legal objectives, don’t hesitateAustralia & International to contact us.Peter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] At DW Fox Tucker, everyMike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] client matters.New South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, L14, 100 King William Street81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Adelaide SA 5000Copyright 2015 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole p: +61 8 8124 1811or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. e: [email protected] care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no dwfoxtucker.com.auresponsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411 COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE DISPUTES | INSOLVENCY | TAX | IPWinestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 EMPLOYMENT | WORKERS COMPENSATIONE-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au SELF INSURANCE | PROPERTY July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 7

contentsJULY/AUGUST 2015feat u r es28 TINY VINEYARDS MAKE A BIG 34 r eg u la r s IMPACT 12 Briefs While Wairarapa, Nelson and 34 IN CLASSIC COMPANY 19 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper Canterbury only contributed 6.3 per The reputation of Bordeaux’s great 20 European Report with Sally Easton cent of last year’s total New Zealand gift to the world of wine – cabernet 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley grape harvest, almost 25 per cent of sauvignon – shows no sign of 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King the nation’s wine producers call the diminishing, writes Dan Traucki. 26 Wine History with Valmai Hankel area home, reports Michael Cooper Migrating to all corners of the globe, 44 Grapevine in this regional profile. The three it continues its dominance as a wine 50 Wine Words regions, located north and south of to sample in its youth and as it ages. 52 Wine Investment & Collecting Cook Strait, might only support small Whether its part of a bordeaux blend, 58 What’s it Worth? vineyards, but what they lack in size has a role with shiraz or as a straight 145 Subscription Form they make up for in quality. varietal, it retains its glorious appeal. 146 Aftertaste 28 38 SLEEPING BEAUTIES 42 During Shingleback winery’s30 AGAINST THE ODDS 25 years of operation it has played wine tastings Tropical Thailand might not be a a major role in McLaren Vale’s 64 Clare Valley & Surrounding Regions first choice from which to build a regional wine affairs, reports Nigel 70 Merlot & Other Bordeaux Varietals dominant wine industry, but the Hopkins. Brothers Kym and John 72 Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends Asian powerhouse is taking dramatic Davey transformed their family- 88 McLaren Vale steps to develop its industry, writes owned cattle property into a 98 Fleurieu Peninsula and Surrounding Denis Gastin. Lead by a small group dominant operation, first in the local Regions of dedicated growers, Thailand is market and later internationally. The 102 Tasmania evolving into a leading regional wine brothers have carefully calibrated 110 Wairarapa, Nelson & Canterbury player. a wine portfolio ranging from the 114 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases elite to a series of inexpensive labels. 42 A GROWING TASTE FOR ORGANICS Organic produce has found its way into the mainstream and there is widespread community acceptance of “going green”, but there still remains a significant segment of wine consumers who are resisting the “organically grown” tag, writes Joy Walterfang. Now the push is on to break down the barriers with show successes against conventionally produced wines and reform in the organic wine community, including easier vineyard certification. Winestate Magazine 119 Organic Wines, New Releases and Issue Number 270 Best Value Buys under $20. July/August 2015 For a complete list of what we tasted for this Cover photograph issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Brendan Homan8 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015



CANBERRA RINITEERSNLATIIONNGAL CHALLENGE 12-17 October 2015JUDGING RIESLINGS FROM ACROSS THE WORLD· Judges from Northern and Past recipients of the Biannual Wolf Blass Award: Southern Hemisphere To a person or organisation in Australia or New Zealand who has· Riesling Master Class October 16, 2015 made a major contribution to Riesling development and promotion..· Riesling Seminar hosted 2003 Guenter Prass AM by Charles Sturt 2004 Clare Valley Winemakers Association University Wagga Wagga Peter Lehmann AM October 16, 2015 2005 Brian Barry OAM Wendy Stuckey· Awards Presentation 2006 Ken Helm AM Ceremony and 2007 John Vickery OAM Celebration of Riesling 2008 Louisa Rose at Hyatt Hotel Canberra 2009 Andrew Hood October 16, 2015 2010 Jeffrey Grosset 2011 Nick Walker· Trade & Consumer David O’Leary Tasting October 17, 2015 2012 Brian Croser AO 2014 Colin Gramp AM Entries open for the Riesling Challenge June 1, 2015. Canberra International Riesling Challenge PO Box 241, Deakin West, ACT 2600 Tel: +61 2 6290 1505 | Fax: +61 2 6290 1580 E-mail: [email protected] www.rieslingchallenge.com

editorialApparently what goes on in Tasmania staysin Tasmania! So the story goes when sourcing wines from smallso-called boutique Tasmanian wineries. The big issue for them isgetting their wines across the water to the mainland (sounds like NewZealand, also). So history tells us that wineries have either expandedto critical mass or stayed small to cater only for the local market.In this Winestate tasting of Tasmanian wines we manage to reviewwines in each category. Tasmania is a region that is often regarded as the ultimate cool-climate region of Australia, providing lean, crisp, elegant winesacross red and white varietals and arguably the finest sparklingwines around. For New Zealand we have Michael Cooper’s paneljudging the very cool Nelson, Canterbury and Wairarapa regions.Not surprisingly, crisp vibrant sauvignon blancs, rieslings andchardonnays come up trumps. However in this same issue we also review wines from other regionsthat could be regarded as borderline cool climate, namely SouthAustralia’s Clare Valley and Fleurieu Peninsula (encompassingLanghorne Creek, Currency Creek, Kangaroo Island and Southern Fleurieu). For the former, we have amicro-climate that produces amazing long-lived rieslings and fine mid-weight berry character reds. Forthe latter, similar elegant styles that belie the fuller flavours of nearby McLaren Vale excel. In a sense this issimilar to Eden Valley and the Barossa Valley, both close by, but very different in weight and structure. (Oftenthe fruit from both regions become excellent blending options, each adding character and covering theother’s weaknesses in a difficult vintage). For our warmer climate options we have McLaren Vale which never disappoints and is the epitome offlavoursome wines around the country. When you add fine winemaking it makes for a powerful argument tobuy their wines. For all-comers our major varietal and blends tasting this issue involves cabernet sauvignon and its siblingsof merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. In the old days it also could include carmenere but wedon’t see much of that around anymore. Often when these varieties are combined we call this a “bordeauxblend,” not suggesting it is French, hence the lower case, but giving acknowledgement to the original workdone by the Bordelais (or was that the English negociants?) in crafting these blends. Interestingly, whileyou might see four or more of these varieties in a blend from a New World producer, you will rarely see aBordeaux wine with more than three of those varieties combined. Flukey cold vintages in Bordeaux over thecenturies has put paid to that! We were pleased to evaluate for your pleasure (and ours) over 300 wines judged by our expert peerwinemaker panels. To increase the interest we also blind tasted some yardstick Bordeaux wines fromChateaux Latour, Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Margaux. Coming back to earth, and our budget, this issue finishes with a nice New Release tasting of 139 wineswith some of the best pinots we have tasted for a long time, and of course other recommendations from allvarieties and styles.Lots to like and lots to enjoy!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/Publisher July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsPOP THE CORKSAustralians still can’t get enough of champagne, with imports of6,524,220 bottles in 2014 - an 8.3 per cent increase, which makesAustralia the sixth-largest market in the world for the Champenoise.The champagne growers and houses were pleased with a returnto growth. In 2014, worldwide shipments rose by 1 per cent byvolume compared with 2013 (305 million bottles). Annual turnovertotalled 4.5 billion euros, which constituted the second-bestperformance in the Champagne region’s history. The UK remainsthe largest importer of champagne ahead of the US, Germany,Japan, Belgium and Australia.BEST OF THE BELT GO BEYOND THE CELLAR DOORThe Stanthorpe Rocks festival in November offers the chance Pioneering Margaret River winery Vasse Felix has joined Ultimateto combine Granite Belt wine tasting with traditional rock ‘n’ roll. Winery Experiences Australia (UWEA), a collection of award-Organised by Slydogz Eventz, the 2015 event will be the third, winning wineries offering “beyond the cellar door” experiences,with Whisky Gully, Jon English and Peter Cupples, Eurogliders, food and wine matching, wine education and gastronomy inTaxiride, Ross Wilson, Daryl Braithwaite and Jon Stevens booked spectacular locations. Vasse Felix is known as one of Australia’sin to hit the main stage on November 14. The following day is all leading labels for cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, and theabout showcasing the best of Granite Belt region, with five local estate is considered in the top echelon of winery destinationsacts on the main stage and another five acts in the beer garden with its innovative cellar door experience featuring tasting andduring the breaks, along with local market stalls and food venues. education offers through to a la carte dining. Its on-site art gallery“The good news doesn’t stop there, we have a great new venue, showcases exhibitions from one of the world’s largest private artstill at Ballandean Estate winery but have moved to a new area collections.right across the road,” says organiser Ian Parker-Wade. StanthorpeRocks is billed as “a boutique-style festival aimed at the discerning Two bespoke experiences have been developed by Vasse Felixfestival goer who wants to have a great day out with fantastic music for UWEA. The Vasse Felix Original tour ($45 per head) takesand food as well as a comfortable and enjoyable experience”. guests behind the scenes of the label, showcasing production,Tickets can be purchased online at www.trybooking.com/110088 offering historic insights and finishing with a private tasting of winesor in person at Ballandean Estate Wines or Granite Belt Cleaning and gourmet morsels. The Vasse Felix Epicurean Tour ($185 perand Hospitality Supplies, Stanthorpe. head) delivers the ultimate culinary journey, adding a food and wine pairing tutorial and a three-course a la carte menu with matching CREATIVE MOVE wines to the basics of the Original tour. Yellowglen sparkling wines Vasse Felix owner and CEO Paul Holmes à Court said: “UWEA has announced that New-York is a terrific initiative to raise the profile of many outstanding wine based jewellery designer and tourism experiences being delivered around Australia. The Vasse fashion icon Samantha Wills Felix team looks forward to working with UWEA, its members and has been appointed the new travel distribution partners in developing new ways to introduce creative director and face of and attract people to the paradise that is Margaret River.” The Yellowglen. The move will see Vasse Felix experiences join those offered by 13 existing UWEA Wills collaborate with Yellowglen members, including the opportunity to be a master winemaker for on a range of projects, including a day at d’Arenberg or Penfolds, Taste Your Birth Year in Premium creative campaigns and Fortified wine at Seppeltsfield, take a Wine Flight over some of product launches, together with Tasmania’s most scenic landscapes and return for lunch at Josef winemaker Trina Smith. In her Chromy or stay overnight in a cosy cottage surrounded by grape debut as creative director, Wills vines and be waited on by a private chef providing a three-course has added her stylish touch to dinner and matching wines at Audrey Wilkinson’s vineyard in the Australia’s number one selling Hunter Valley. See www.ultimatewineryexperiences.com.au. sparkling wine, Yellowglen Yellow, creating a limited edition jewelled bottle design with a sprinkle of glitter, which is rolling out nationally.12 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

briefsFIRE THREAT BEAT THE HIGH PRICESThere was much angst in the Adelaide Hills in January when While Bali is a hugely popular holiday destination for Australians,bushfires threatened to destroy the vintage with smoke taint. wine can be prohibitively expensive, particularly when diningDespite the threat from January’s bushfires, Adelaide Hills grape out. That problem is easily solved for guests staying at thegrowers and winemakers are celebrating a 2015 vintage that they lovely Villa Sungai, a multiple award-winning property tuckedbelieve is the best in a decade. “The usual challenge we have in away in the rainforest decked hills of Cepaka, just a 30-minutethe Hills is summer or autumn rain which can cause problems at drive from the bustling beaches of Seminyak and Legian.harvest,” Adelaide Hills Wine Region chairman Tom Keelan said. This exclusive-use Australian-owned property offers luxuries like“But this year it has been perfect. Warm days and cool nights and cold towels, cold drinks and snacks as standard. Upon arrival youno rain means that we were finished by the end of March, and the are met by around eight or nine staff, who work on shifts aroundquality and yields are excellent. Everyone is saying it is the best the clock to make sure your every whim is catered for. Villa Sungaivintage of the last decade because of that dry ripening period. offers three poolside king suites and four ensuites, one with an alOur cooler climate in the Hills meant the grapes had enough time fresco shower and a bath that was strewn with flower petals for ourto develop and we are seeing incredible reds and whites.” arrival. Five-star furnishings in Balinese style meet Provencal chic. The villa has space for up to six adults and children are welcome. David LeMire of Shaw and Smith said wine lovers should be Adjacent but completely private is a second smaller but equallylooking out for 2015 pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and beautiful villa, Sungai Gold. The wine list, very reasonably pricedgruner veltliner. “They are all stand outs and really represent what in a country with very high alcohol taxes, includes the local Hattenwe can do in the Hills when the weather is on our side,” he said. label and names like Alexis Lichine, Louis Latour, Guigal, Zonin,Keelan offered sympathy to the few growers in the northern part Domaine Chandon, Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate, Cape Mentelle,of the Hills who had been threatened by fires and the small areas Astrobale and Drylands, among others. BYO is also permittedof vineyard affected by smoke. for a small fee. The food is better than at most of the upmarket restaurants on the island and served with real care and attention. “We all know the risks that at any time mother nature can deal For details and prices email [email protected] or go tous out of the hand and our hearts go out to that small group of www.bali-villasungai.com.growers who have worked all season to face this uncertainty atharvest,” he said. “Smoke taint is a bit of unknown until the wineis made. Victorian winemakers were hit with a similar problem in2009. The winemaking community in the Hills is very close and wewill all make sure we help out our neighbours any way we can. Weall know the complexities of growing fruit in our region; it’s a regionof extremes. That’s why we are a premium region – the highs arehigher and the lows sometimes lower.”wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 13 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E

briefsA WAY WITH (restaurant, gallery, local produce and entertainment offerings),WORDS setting (views of vineyards and surrounds) and then value for money of the wines for sale. His research of wineries across threeVeteran Barossa different Australian states and one in the US found that most visitorsValley winemaker are looking for interesting experiences (a good service experienceRick Burge is a keen and activities that enhance the basic wine tasting experience likeobserver of the wine dining and entertainment) rather than just high quality wine. Drscene and is no fan Thomas says the findings underline that wineries need to invest inof trendy new terms creating an experience beyond simply pouring wines for peoplecreeping into the when they visit. “It is interesting that many wine producers maywine vocabulary. Burge posted this funny, tongue-in-cheek not be aware of what the strengths and weaknesses of their cellarFacebook message prior to the 2015 vintage: “With vintage fast doors are, and that many consumers are more interested in theapproaching, some exciting innovations need mentioning. Firstly, overall experience than wine quality,” he says. This is especiallywe’re not ‘picking’ this year; we’re not ‘harvesting’ either - rather, important for many of Australia’s small scale wine producerswe’re going to ‘forage’ our grapes. I’ve long envied the foodies (particularly apposite in Tasmania) many of who do not sell outsidewho’ve enjoyed dishes that have involved ‘foraging’, so I felt it apt of the state and depend heavily on cellar door visitation to driveto introduce it to viticulture. In the winery, we’ve set up a special sales. Dr Thomas is also managing director of online wine start-intervention meter, to measure the degree of intervention in our up Vine Collective, a valuable online resource for anyone visitingwinemaking. It’s certainly the hot, trendy cliche at the moment Western Australia wineries, or interested in buying wine from thatand we feel our intervention meter will be a big hit. Attached to state (including sales of single bottles).this meter will be a special electrode to measure ‘naturality’, aterm that I feel will soon rival ‘minerality’ and induce an avalanche ‘TASTE’ THE TALENTof blogs to further clog up the wine ether. We’re aiming to makea small, pocket model that wine wankers can take to wine bars F rank Fawkner , w h o i sand restaurants to check a small sample of wine that claims to be regarded as one of the mostnatural and/or orange.” talented young chefs around, has opened his own Hunter ValleyBUILDING CELLAR DOOR TRAFFIC restaurant. After four years as right-hand man to regional starWhat convinces people to buy wine at cellar doors? Is it purely the Troy Rhoades-Brown at Musequality of the wine that is the deciding factor, or do other factors and Muse Kitchen, Fawkner hascome into play? Dr Ben Thomas, a Curtin University Business struck out on his own with his newSchool researcher with a PhD in wine tourism, recently examined EXP. eatery opening its doors atwhy visitors return to wineries and found the wine was often only the Oakvale cellar door. He wasan ancillary factor. Dr Thomas was one of the co-authors of a head chef when the Muse teamreport that found the main drivers of cellar door traffic, in order achieved two-hats in the 2015 Sydney Morning Herald Good Foodof importance, are: service/staff quality, additional services Guide. “The philosophy behind my restaurant is on the experience,” Fawkner says. “EXP. is not just about the food and wine. It’s about every little thing - the service, music, art, painting, crockery, aromas, furniture and fit-out. It’s about every little thing that plays its part in creating something memorable for customers. My food is very contemporary. The name EXP. relates to the ‘experience’ but it also is about being ‘experimental’ having ‘expertise’ and ‘exposure’ to tastes and textures.” Fawkner began his cooking career at the age of 15 at Mount Broke Wines. He was then part of the opening team at Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley where he completed his apprenticeship before moving to London, where he worked his way up to sous chef at Tom’s Kitchen. When he returned home to the Hunter in 2011 Fawkner joined owners Troy and Megan Rhoades-Brown (chef and restaurant manager) at Muse. Fawkner says diners should not expect a traditional dining experience. “There are no entrees, no mains. I want to give back the freedom of choice to the customer,” he says. EXP. Restaurant, 1596 Broke Rd Pokolbin, NSW; phone (02) 4998 7264. www. exprestaurant.com.au.14 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

briefsLUXURY LODGINGS personality. Bob McLean, wine marketer, wine communicator was a man who loved a party, to laugh, to lunch - a lot - and get everyoneThe Great Southern region of Western Australia is one of the talking about Barossa wine. He died in April in the Barossa Valleylargest in the country - so visitors need a good base from which from liver cancer. He was 67. It surprised no one that McLean wroteto explore. More luxury hotel than traditional B&B, the five-star his own obituary of sorts in the form of a conversation he recordedBeach House at Bayside is located on a golf resort complex just just before his death with his friend, the noted photographer Milton50m from Middleton Beach and a 10-minute drive from downtown Wordley, for his blog site. In it, he told of his early days arriving inAlbany. There are seven totally private and very modern suites the Barossa and being taken under the wing of Syd Gramp and Tomhere, all with ensuites and some with double spa baths. The rooms Morrison at Orlando Wines. “I was the assistant to the assistant to theare extremely well equipped (think bathrobes, air conditioning, assistant,” he said. McLean knew instinctively what people wantedheated towel rails, mini bars, and a selection of gourmet cakes to drink, possibly because he was always meeting consumers. Manyand fresh fruit) in each room, along with fast and efficient free wifi. regarded him as a marketer or PR person. He saw himself simply asThe breakfasts (choose from a buffet or a full cooked menu) are a communicator taking the wine message around Australia and intooutstanding, with offerings including smoked salmon and fresh export markets such as the UK and Europe. He was deputy chairmanlocal mushrooms and there is a room service menu for those of the South Australian Tourism Association and a major force behindwho would like to lunch or dine on site. Choices range from the Barossa Wine and Tourism Association. From Orlando he movedgourmet platters to a hearty BLT. The little touches continue with to St Hallett in 1988 as managing director and shareholder, drivingfree afternoon teas, complimentary Wignalls port and chocolates the company’s success, most notably with its flagship, Old Blockafter dinner and an honesty bar in the comfortable lounge where Shiraz. His last great project was the McLean’s Farm wine label inguests can relax with a book or choose from a range of DVDs. partnership with his wife Wilma in the Eden Valley. He planted theOwners Craig and Sally Pullin both come from professional Barr Eden Vineyard deliberately to bush vines, all dry grown, becausehospitality backgrounds and it shows. Craig has worked in several they had to be picked and tended by hand rather than machine. Herestaurants, while Sally worked in marketing for a Melbourne five- called it a winemaker’s vineyard.star hotel. They make themselves available to ferry guests withouttransport to local restaurants and are a mine of information about ACCIDENT CLAIMS BURNELLlocal attractions, including the wineries of the Great Southern.The Beach House at Bayside, 33 Barry Court, Albany, Western Simon Burnell, the popular and outgoing winemaker atAustralia. www.thebeachhouseatbayside.com.au. Winter special Geographe winery Willow Creek drowned in March after arates are available until August 31. windsurfing accident. Burnell was swept away by a large break at Cow Bombie near Gracetown and his body was found the‘IMMENSE’ CHARACTER following day. He had been winemaker at Willow Creek for five years. He previously worked at Cape Mentelle and Flying FishHe was called Big Bob McLean. Always. It described not only Cove in Margaret River after starting his career in his state of Southhis stature - figuratively and literally - but the immense size of his Australia at Nepenthe in the Adelaide Hills. He was 44. July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsREGIONAL WOES 2013 Prӓmie Limited Release ShirazAFBSTAFwEEacarMcCsahrhocloSTuewcsiOemoIwCnlhhLrhldoaMhlHpdiiYoaryfnsvarieEEwIrstiecivLaMwnissaoTecoDtldtetisaEhuHanmenaestMrteagssoEeoeeEasrieuBesgSdtFctas,whraETnhaeAenpcmfmRiAeieetMrdenanhdSoTrevwmeeIattvEsoLethatFhabeoomuYiepRbnailsnY’rrcolSSoeOrtaieOhpcetorpuflecHMekUgeueatwxsecsrEetrct.brcfhiATchieConttyeotehHaeRriAterlnainthmanTssrRNetged.dhEBeseterboohmrEaSpeswmspeirTsianeso.GriypeIrrtteesLe.hEcgosoaLeffAaeNnfrrrladssooEtbaSuohmmysRoHtntsahAfogtuAthetoyeTtcphKnenhueIhtaetaOEeerhi,srrrcNdtwteay,iiaiHteetStciiyrdiptanuAoscirtWiel.nNaffhasamisnnDHsrenWbdoravSyoOefabhkifpnnnnaeiiWHatnlttofhsiasgaaIAntvsegmTmiidVttenoHlbeheiEo.invtaalaevya.imrnredgrelseueytlaolAs vintage 2015 drew to a close many Australian winemakerswere left smiling. Another good vintage was in the bag. Not so W2sYg0ehwiyriaC1eaBoenbis3slvpnoaudPoolepeeoaatlsetncnsuafoamaacunssrCmogl,qflluknwuotawaneofufaabrnfittobsrldueatt:wvneeeeliooruerataon,:rtktdtDafmenhtr:orerrwtryeiel,iefIflmealoawnherdneFortmsndaonanegphtiwu’wvmkdeaterds:,oeslahopennuleDdtrcne,auo“tordsyletNlawhndrlpuheroeerhisdssddivtaoenkopaluaoarberoyurlkdrvynorbfatkmlfrshituodesnwttedimcptloonhobaephtyoesyihladndoygacr2sin”dnshoreewoys0dmcy.avtidpwmia2onihgritfltbagdi5menuterienttrisodleeimihuleaerpfinissfioreaty.hlpvscyafrteejaaffirumtxrttpcreirsnhoesniouelistttdturedirngyiepsottum,eane..irhpucenrnowbce.gtAsfloeumuuwrihTsutiaiAtarrooonhihvgeilanrdoupleeohfieedslsttraeutarynheenn,amfrmrsetaooisedfounagorcfdlwmtslyreiuesafthneastsr,sneawpohgyeaovmsnrcwavemtefevvoilenhannslgiaiuoardrbnenltsrnegfpoyonryogia,ulalowltweihiolnv,gf.nwwdahfietihcbnbaihioytbfutcrgwthtoehneoha.ttenraiontfitrnhhtottn,hehlelVeeRSiVOenuVTagbtVariiaSkegoiirgEoenHnneATcetilTegelaearlyhiirvlcertoa(o/arvasrnnVnatet)dimtssooiatlncebnlaet lA2cIBRi01ndaNF0o1ErS3rwLe0foBdcAewaislo%lhrne2in&ansMamb1ia2can6rdcle4SehndM6ii.deVmdh.c(e6sd—,5sO2hanaiiF3tM%cr0snloatgl3a(hleaa%ndkea8/a1zaatLy1ryle0tHesl&mcuolli%hoovnoLag)ieyamsn&dnlhdleAoooanavcdmeghsruswinegrowers in inland wine regions, notably the Riverland, wheregrape prices continued to dive in wake of the 2015 harvest, making CATCHING LIGHTNING IN A BOTTLEwinegrowing unviable and sending yet more growers out of theindustry. Nick Xenophon, independent senator from South Australia, Schild Estate has produced one of the Southern Barossa’s finestnoted that the wine grape industry in some parts of Australia was wines with the launch of its new Prämie limited release 2013on the verge of collapse and floated the idea of a 5c levy on the Shiraz, available nation-wide from May 18 in selected retail andprice of bottles of wine to support struggling growers. He estimated restaurants, with a recommended retail price of $70. Grown anda levy would raise around $100 million. Low prices have dogged matured in the soils of the Barossa Valley, Prämie blends exquisitegrowers for years, with one industry report estimating that less than fruits from the most exciting vineyard parcels of the year in a single15 per cent of Australia’s grape growers made a profit in 2014. In bottle, and stands as a crowning accomplishment of Schild Estate.the Riverland, it was just 1 per cent. The Winemakers’ Federation Judy Watson, one of the Family Proprietor’s for Schild Estate says,of Australia (WFA) suggested immediate benefits would flow from “2013 was an incredible year for shiraz in our part of the world,the Federal Government spending money on marketing Australian with some real fruit prominence, genuine depth of flavour andwine overseas. “If we can do that with the help of the government firm tannins all ensuring the wines are fresh, concentrated andthen we will see profitability and asset values rise in the industry,” balanced. Through a combination of hard work and some helpsaid WFA chief executive officer Paul Evans. Towards the end of from Mother Nature the stars aligned, and we were able to exceedvintage, a Senate inquiry into the wine industry was announced. Top the benchmarks we had set for this project.”of what promises to be a broad-ranging inquiry will be the plight ofAustralian winegrowers. Scott Hazeldine, Schild Estate’s Chief Winemaker says, “The shiraz is characterised by a deep, dark ruby colour that is bolsteredWINDS OF SUCCESS by rich blackberry and fresh blood plum fruit aromas. A firm and persistent tannin framework creates a unique tasting experience.”Margaret River’s West Winds Gin has followed up its win at the The limited release not only celebrates the local produce andinaugural Australian Distilled Spirits Awards by taking out three silver arable soils of the Barossa Valley, but encapsulates the hard-medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. The award working spirit that drives Schild Estate, a multi-generational familywinning gins were The Cutlass, The Sabre and The Broadside, the business.latter a new “naval strength” gin due for release later this year. West In 1956, at just 16 years of age, Edgar Schild took the reins of theWinds’ Jeremy Spencer said the company’s recent success both family property when his father passed away. Since then, Ed hasnationally and internationally meant the gin maker had made it on grown the business from its humble beginnings as a small mixed“the world stage”. Topping it off, he said he has just sent his first farm in the Rowland Flat to a pioneering wine-producing estate inshipment of gin to England, the birthplace of gin. Lyndoch. In a uniquely Australian fashion, Ed and three generations of the family reside on the property today, driven by their love forsecond success the Barossa to create the country’s best wines. A Barossa Valley producer has been named Australia’s Best Tourism “Schild Estate couldn’t be more proud of what we’ve achievedWinery for the second consecutive year. Pindarie Cellar Door at with Prämie and we look forward to sharing the very best of theGomersal in the Barossa Valley was deemed to offer the best of the Barossa Valley with the rest of Australia,” says Judy.Barossa, with tastings, regional foods, a heritage cellar door andcafé, and great hospitality. The wine is also available from Schild Estate’s cellar door and online shop: http://schildestate.com.au/ #SchildPramie @ It is owned by Tony Brooks, a sixth-generation farmer, and former SchildEstate.Penfolds viticulturist Wendy Allan. The cellar door is housed in an1850s stone building - a former grain room and stables - and wasrestored using recycled timbers and stone. Slate, quarried off thefarm, was also used in the restoration project. Judges found Pindariehad “recreated Barossa German heritage history and achieved arustic but sophisticated welcoming space.”16 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

briefsWolf announces Award Winner places of interest, but this is by no means a set itinerary. An interactive map on the South Australian Tourism Commission’sThe bi-annual Riesling Challenge Wolf Blass Award was presented website lists everything you can see, do, eat and drink throughoutby the Wolf Blass Foundation Inc. founder Wolf Blass to the the entire trail, allowing you to create your own special journey.legendary industry figure Colin Gramp AM. The Epicurean Way isn’t just about wine or food, we are talking here This award seeks to recognise a person or organisation from about layer upon layer of unique South Australian encounters offeredAustralia or New Zealand who has made a major contribution to the by a cornucopia of winemakers, chefs, growers, farmers, boutiqueDevelopment & Promotion of Riesling. brewers, patissiers, bakers, cheese makers, coffee roasters, cider makers, artists, jewelers, craftspeople and a myriad of other artisans. Colin was the inspirational mover to introduce pressure and cold Discover wines you will never find in bottle shops, get up close andfermentation resulting in the winning of the Champion Riesling personal with working winemakers, trying blending your own, eatAward in 1955.  The 1954 vintage won first prise in Melbourne and in restaurants that have no menus, enroll in a cooking class, takeSydney.  His history is documented on pages 71 – 74 of the “Riesling a cheese making course, go fruit picking, match wines with rarein Australia” publication. “This is a great recognition for an Elder in chocolates, drink vintage port from your birth year directly from theour industry,” said Mr Blass. barrel, go bush sharing a gourmet breakfast with kangaroos, take a Segway tour through vineyards, fossick around in local markets, walk off calories along roadways lined with spectacular views, surf white sand-edged beaches, stay in cozy B&Bs or contemporary hotels, learn how to create hats or forge knives, have a pair of charmingly different leather boots or shoes made to order. There are ample enough eclectic experiences to keep you coming back time and time again. This is South Australia at its best.MAKING A DIFFERENCEThree Canberra winemakers left with excess grapes from the 2015vintage have got together to make wine to raise funds for a localcharity. The concept started with Four Winds Winery business managerSarah Collingwood, who found herself with more than enough shirazfor her company’s needs. She worked with her neighbours AlexMcKay at Collector Wines and Hamish Young and Nick Spencerat Eden Road who were prepared to take the grapes, make andbottle a wine. The wine will sell for $200 a case with $174 ($26 willbe kept for expenses of bottles, cartons, etc) going to Canberra-based Companion House, which helps refugees and those whohave suffered trauma.SHOW ME THE WAY pinot purchaseLucky old Adelaide town It has been called a union of like minds. In early April, McLaren Valesurrounded, as she is, by four winemaker Wirra Wirra bought Ashton Hills, a pioneering producerof Australia’s top premium of pinot noir in the nearby Adelaide Hills. Ashton Hills was foundedwine regions. Take a road trip by Stephen George in 1982 and is planted to five clones of pinot.through those four regions Wirra Wirra has been buying grapes from the Adelaide Hills for moreand you will have officially traversed South Australia’s Epicurean Way. than a decade and regarded the purchase “a major leap” into cool climate red wine territory. An initiative of the South Australian Tourism Commission, theEpicurean Way sets off from the glistening sea-framed McLaren Vale “The red wine opportunity has eluded us until now,” said Wirrajust 45 minutes to the south of the CBD, winds its way up across Wirra managing director Andrew Kay. “The chance to build uponthe patchwork quilt that’s the Adelaide Hills, heads north to world the legacy of Stephen’s work was too good to pass up and for it torenowned Barossa and finishes up in breathtakingly beautiful Clare. happen not only with his blessing, but also his ongoing contribution,Compress it down to two days or take 20, depending on how much is incredibly satisfying for us.” George has agreed to have a role intime you have. the brand in the future. You will find the official Epicurean Way map marked with many July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 17

nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine scene reported that bunch numbers were well down on 2014. Rhyan Wardman, chief operating officer of Indevin, estimated the grape crop to be 5 per cent to 10 per cent lighter than the long-term average. “The potential tonnage variation between 2014 and 2015 could be a reduction of 40 per cent.” Richard Riddiford, of Palliser Estate, in Martinborough, predicted in March that the 2015 vintage around the country would be “light and late”. In Central Otago, after a cold snap and heavy snowfall in early April, growers were racing against time to pick grapes before the arrival of autumn frosts.THOMAS IN CHARGE PROTECTION FOR REGIONAL WINE NAMESVilla Maria has appointed Richard Thomas as its first chief After a decade of delay, NZ is finally implementing a law tooperating officer (COO). Reporting to the company’s founder protect its regional and sub-regional wine names. Under the 2006and owner, Sir George Fistonich, he is responsible for sales and Geographic Indications (Wines and Spirits) Registration Act, NZmarketing, winery and bottling operations, restaurants, cellar doors created a system to define and register the names and boundariesand events. “I’m definitely not a wine connoisseur; more a wine of its wine regions (the last major wine country to do so. Due toconsumer,” says Thomas, who has a BA in philosophy and an various international trade issues, the regulations were not finalised,international background in marketing and advertising. “Ultimately, but the Government announced recently that the Act should bethe key to success is to help the people inside the company fully implemented by early 2016. A geographic indication (GI) willmaximise the great existing value in the brands, products, teams denote that a NZ wine comes from a specific area “and possesseswe already have, whilst driving growth in key markets globally.” a particular quality, reputation or other characteristic that arisesThomas has already appointed a global head of marketing, Scott from that place of origin”. GIs are viewed essentially as a way toFairbairn, formerly head of marketing at Pernod Ricard NZ. protect label integrity, in terms of a wine’s geographic origin, and do not guarantee anything about the quality of the wine itself.WINE EXPORTS TO AUSTRALIA DROP Jeffrey Clarke, GM of Advocacy at NZ Winegrowers, says the Act is designed principally to protect the country’s GIs internationally.For the first time in over a decade, NZ’s wine exports to Australia “If someone overseas tries to use a trademark or wine region namehave fallen - down by 2 per cent in volume during 2014. Australia is that conflicts with one of our GIs, without a GI registration systemstill NZ wine’s largest overseas market, taking over 28 per cent of we could be in for a long fight. But being able to show that the GIthe country’s exports. NZ commands about two-thirds of Australia’s is registered under NZ law makes it almost a slam-dunk.”imported market, with wines sold mostly in New South Wales andVictoria at an average retail price of over $A13. Australia is often a The initial thrust will be to protect the names of priority regionsconvenient starting point for small NZ wineries plunging into export, such as Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay and Central Otago, and laterbut larger producers are more likely to ship much of their output those of sub-regions.to the US. The unprecedented strength of the Kiwi dollar againstits Australian counterpart ($NZ1 reached ¢A99.78 in early April) BABICH CELEBRATES 100 VINTAGESis expected to intensify interest in the US, currently predicted toemerge as New Zealand’s biggest export market for wine in 2015. One of NZ’s largest family- owned wine producers,2015 CROP MUCH SMALLER IN MARLBOROUGH Babich, recently processed its 100th vintage. In 1910,Marlborough’s winegrowers, who last year produced over 75 as a boy of 14, Josip (Joe)per cent of all NZ wine, are expected to have harvested a moderate Babich left Dalmatia, incrop in 2015. Spring frosts, cool temperatures during the early part Croatia, to join his brothersof flowering, summer drought and outbreaks of powdery mildew toiling in the gumfields ofcombined to trigger a big drop in production after the gigantic 2014 the Far North. His first winecrop. Nautilus winemaker Clive Jones, chair of Wine Marlborough, was produced in 1916. On terraces above a swampy gumfield at Kaikino he grew grapes, trod them and opened a wine shop. Next year, Babich plans to stage global events to celebrate a century of winemaking.18 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS michael cooper Telling Tales “Tell your story,” winegrowers are The Wild Bunch, which offers tales of 18 concluded that although both candidatesconstantly urged. We all want to know the pioneers who have championed innovation for the presidency told lies, the winningbackground of our favourite wine brands - in the NZ wine industry. candidate told the most believable lies.the dreams and aspirations of the wineryowners, how they grow their grapes and All good stuff, but how reliable are the Steve Heimoff, an American wine writer,make their wines, their major challenges wine stories we are told? Some corporate cautions against “selling wine by sellingand triumphs. At least, that’s the marketing giants don’t know the details of their own stories”. “If everyone has a story (andtheory. stories. One multinational, which has everyone does), then distinguishing your snapped up various long-established particular story becomes less and less I once asked Hugh Johnson, for decades brands over the years, confused the arrival possible, to the vanishing point. You reallythe world’s best-selling wine author, about date of one of the immigrant founders in NZ have to start splitting hairs. If Bill lovesthe keys to his runaway success. His with his plunge into wine production, and puppies, then his competitor, Don, hasanswer was clear and to the point: “Make recently printed thousands of back labels to love crippled puppies rescued fromsure you always tell a story”. For wine that got the date of the first vintage wrong disasters.” Heimoff admits that storytellingproducers, the message is similar - tell your by 28 years. can have a place, but people forget “thatstory and make it a telling story. quality must precede the story. You can tell You can tell a story about a story about a mediocre winery and the US-based Joe Roberts, of www. winery will still be mediocre”.1winedude.com, also believes that a mediocre winery and“wine doesn’t sell wine, stories sell Felicity Carter, of Meininger’s Winewine”. In a keynote speech at the 2013 the winery will still be Business International, shares Heimoff’sNederburg Auction, he emphasised that scepticism. “It seems a universal law of“if you want to start incorporating younger mediocre. wine that at some point during a conferencewine consumers into your marketing plan... at least one speaker will tell the wine tradeyou need to sell your story before you can Wineries also often show a liking for to ‘tell its stories’.” Her concern is that whatsell your wine”. excising sensitive bits from their stories. the trade calls storytelling is often just lists Setbacks such as scandals based on of information. “Inert objects, like wine, tend Bruce McGechan, a NZ internet wine quality issues or misleading labels, or not to generate good stories.”sales expert, says each producer’s story receivership, into which some high-flyingshould focus on how their vineyard was NZ producers plunged in the mid 1980s. But Carter does concede that some wineestablished, the owner’s and winemaker’s stories are compelling: “The tale of howbackgrounds and personalities, and their One well-regarded producer in Central Max Schubert developed Grange in secretmedals, ratings and reviews. UK-based Otago criticises wine writers for penning is an integral part of that wine’s appeal”.Tara Devon O’Leary, author of a collection endless lists of tasting notes, rather thanof personal stories about a single wine that telling winemaking stories. Yet the same As columnist for London’s Sundaystood out for each of 29 experts, argues winemaker is reluctant to divulge the name Telegraph for 16 years, Robert Josephthat every wine tells a story. of the company’s majority shareholder, on believed that most readers wanted to know the grounds that he is “a private person”. about the places and people behind wine Australia’s first families of wine would labels. But his editor told him repeatedlysurely agree with that. After a dinner hosted Marketers cannot be trusted, according that they just wanted advice on what to buy.by the group in late 2013, Mike Veseth, to Seth Godin, an American author and “When I began to think about the reality ofUS-based editor of The Wine Economist, entrepreneur. The idea for his book, All this wine-needs-story mantra, I increasinglyrelated how he enjoyed the families “telling Marketers are Liars, came to him after began to see my editor’s point... Quality,their stories up close and personal... There the 2004 election in the US, when he style, price and the impression one mightis real wine in real glasses, real people tell make on friends all come higher on mosttheir stories and make their case” people’s lists than any kind of story.\" Similar “stories of survival and success”are the essence of Joelle Thomson’s book, July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 19

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWFIZZ BUBBLES ALONG AS DRINK OF CHOICEWhether we’re celebrating, congratulating, Germany, Spain and Russia. products are French, Italian and Spanish,congregating, commiserating, consoling, Though champagne makes a lot of Germany and Russia, number one andjust plain partying, or modestly marking three respectively, are often seen as thethe end of the working week … whatever noise and has a high profile, it is actually surprise factor for bubbly production and… we’re increasingly doing it with bubbles. a minority sparkling sport, in terms of consumption. Without a regional nameAcross the world, though Europe holds volume. In 2014, 307 million bottles were there is less for consumers to get a handlesway in both production and consumption. shipped from Champagne, and more on. Also possibly because much of what is than half of those stayed in France for made in both Germany and Russia is also Bubbles, it seems, are simply becoming domestic consumption. All of which means consumed in those countries, so there ispart of our everyday repertoire. Sparkling champagne accounts for a meagre 12 little export presence (apart from a couplewines are undoubtedly flavour of the per cent share of the total sparkling wine of German brands, perhaps) which mightmoment, indeed of the millennium. Globally, market. otherwise build awareness and following.consumption of all sparkling wines hasgrown by more than a third since the turn What makes up the other 88 per cent? German sparkling needs a bit of specialistof said millennium, and, according to Champagne, as we know, is a sparkling knowledge. The German word for sparklingmarket research company Euromonitor wine made by the traditional method (a wine - sekt - applies to anything withInternational, is forecast to grow by up to second fermentation in the bottle that bubbles, so provides no clues as toanother 10 per cent by 2018. creates sweet-savoury toasty/ brioche/ whether the wine is traditional method (eg pastry/ nutty flavours, among others) champagne, cremant, cava, franciacorta In absolute terms, drinks market research that originates only from the ChampagneThe other “surprise”, Russia, the third biggest sparkling wine consuming country, also satisfies its huge domestic demand by making sparkling wine typically using a lot of imported juice.company Vinexpo/IWSR measured the region in northern France. All other wines with all those expected sweet-savouryglobal sparkling wine market at more than with bubbles are called sparkling wines, flavours) or tank method, which typically2.5 billion bottles. This represents a market though some of them also have regionally uses grape varieties whose own flavoursshare of just over 8 per cent (of total table delimited and protected names such as and aromas are better preserved bywine and sparkling wine). cremant (traditional method French bubbly the tank method, which typically and from regions other than Champagne), deliberately avoids the sweet-savoury The lion’s share of this consumption is in cava (traditional method Spanish bubbly), flavours created by leaving the wine a longEurope. If we take the liberty of including methode cap classique (traditional method time on its lees in bottle. Having said that,Russia in Europe (apparently most Russians South African bubbly) and various Italian traditionelle flaschengarung tells you itslive in the part of their country that lies in regional bubbles made by different traditional method.Europe rather than Asia), then of the top 10 methods - asti, moscato d’asti, franciacorta,sparkling wine consuming nations, eight prosecco. Tank method typically provides fruitier,are in Europe - Germany, France, Russia, fresher, more primary-fruited aromaticUK, Italy, Ukraine, Spain and Belgium/ All these (and other) geographically- bubblies such as prosecco and asti in Italy.Luxembourg. Just the US (fourth) and based products are protected terms in the And sekt made from riesling in Germany.Australia (ninth) are outside. All of which European Union, which means, for example, But this is not to say that a great deal of sektmeans Europe accounts for two-thirds of Aussie bubbly hasn’t been allowed to be is made using riesling. In fact, much sektthe sparkling wine market. called champagne since 2010, when the is made in Germany using fruit imported country agreed to protect the term (and from neighbouring countries and made on a And in terms of sparkling wine production, other geographical-based terms) solely large scale to satisfy the domestic demandthe international organisation of vine for the French stuff, in exchange for better of the biggest sparkling wine consumingand wine (OIV), an inter-governmental access to European Union markets, and for nation in the world. It is this that is one ofscience and technical body, lists just five Aussie terms such as Coonawarra, Barossa the things that has given rise to the less-countries, all in Europe (taking the same etc to be protected in Europe. than-top-quality image of sekt in Germany.liberty), which account for three-quartersof sparkling wine production: France, Italy, Given most of the protected regional The other “surprise”, Russia, the third20 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

biggest sparkling wine consuming country, Yorke Peninsula’salso satisfies its huge domestic demand award winningby making sparkling wine typically using vineyarda lot of imported juice. And domesticproduction is on the up - according toOIV figures, production of sparkling winein Russia has more than doubled in the10 years to 2013, to around 250 millionbottles, which, actually is not so far adriftfrom Champagne’s production of more than300 million bottles. Russian sparkling wine is still calledshampanskoye (champagne), althoughan agreement exists with the ChampagneCommittee in France (CIVIC) to stop callingit shampanskoye, possibly by 2022 to 2025. Most of the Russian stuff is made bya modified version of the tank method,and similarly to Germany, the quality ofits reputation is not of the highest order.Classic tank method is a batch process- wine plus a dose of yeast and sugarare filled into a pressurised tank. Thisreferments to create the bubble and isthen filtered and bottled under pressure toretain the bubble. The Russian continuousmethod links a series of pressurised tanksto allow continuous production. Wine anda proportioned stream of yeast and sugarsolution are introduced at one end. As theliquid passes through the series of tanks, itreferments to create the bubble, is filteredand emerges at the other end to be bottled.Periodically the process has to be stoppedcompletely to allow for the equipment tobe cleaned. As well as Russia, Italy has also seen a bigincrease in sparkling production, notablyfor prosecco. But it’s not all about Europe.The OIV reports Australia and the UShave both seen big increases in sparklingproduction in the decade to 2013: 29 percent and 25 per cent respectively. Whichdoesn’t quite keep pace with increasingsparkling wine consumption in the sameperiod: Australia up 42 per cent and theUS up 51 per cent. Maybe bubbles arejust making us all feel a bit better in theshadow of a GFC. July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetutor WORDS clive hartleyFRENCH FAVOURITE NEEDS PROMOTIONCabernet franc has pedigree stamped all and fresh, lively red fruits, often raspberry- riverbed sand and gravel, tuffeau limestoneover it. It can produce sublimely perfumed driven as well as some graphite and leafy slopes and a clay and gravel plateau.and elegant wines with the potential to notes. Other wines display light floral Terroir plays an important part here. Youage gracefully. It blends effortlessly with aromas especially violets and rose petals. It get lighter, fruitier wines from the sandits fellow co-conspirators in Bordeaux and has softer tannins than cabernet sauvignon and gravel near the river’s flood plain. Theproudly holds court in the Garden of France but is not as plush and fruity as merlot. tuffeau slopes produce more tannic, longer- the middle Loire region of Touraine. It sits on the lighter side. They are great ageing wines; while the plateau wines areCabernet franc has small berries ensuring food wines, supporting cuisine rather than more elegant. Producers either keep thea good skin to juice ratio, important for dominating it. wines separate or blend the three distinctcharacter building anthocyanins and In the Touraine there are three notable terroirs together. I love the expression thatgets along in a number of different soils, areas of production both north and south “chinon is a Frenchman’s wine” indicatingincluding limestone, clay and sand. of the Loire and down river from the that the best examples are drunk by localsAccording to Robinson et al in Wine Grapes city of Tours - Bourgueil, St.Nicolas de with inside knowledge and you don’t see(2012) cabernet franc is thought to have many on the export market. They are veryoriginated in the Basque Country and is It may be that we are popular in Paris.the offspring of two old cultivars (morenoa So, why doesn’t such a noble grape rateand mondarribi beltza). It is a seriously old fortunate that this variety more than a mention in Australia? I’mgrape. Breton is the old name for cabernet posing a question that is difficult to answer.franc in the Loire, while in Bordeaux it was suits our terroir and our Across the globe other varieties have beenknown as bouchet and records, as early picked off the shelf from France and haveas 1534, mention the grape variety. It has naturally self-sustaining been successfully planted and made abeen identified as a parent of some better- name for themselves. Malbec in Argentina,known grapes. It’s a parent of cabernet vineyard practices. sauvignon blanc in New Zealand, rieslingsauvignon along with sauvignon blanc. This and shiraz in Australia, carmenere in Chile,crossing is thought to have only occurred Bourgueil and Chinon. Closest to Tours is tannat in Uruguay, the list goes on, but noas recently as the 18th century in Bordeaux. the Bourgueil appellation which sits on a mention of cabernet franc. It could be theWhile merlot’s parents are magdeleine south-facing limestone slope and makes reputation of franc being suited to a coolnoires des charentes and, you guessed it, medium-bodied wines with more tannin climate; it ripens earlier than cabernetcabernet franc. content than the two other regions. The sauvignon, but is unpleasant with greenIn Bordeaux it makes up a small proportion wines have a reputation for ageing. St. methoxypyrazine and herbaceous aromasof the blend in the Medoc (left bank) Nicholas de Bourgueil is to the west and if it doesn’t reach maturity. Placed inappellations but takes on more of a role on warmer soils with higher sand content that context maybe we have always hadin the right bank and especially in the and tends to be fruiter, lighter bodied, and easier and more reliable grapes to plantglamorous, top ranking Saint-Emilion more for early consumption. Finally, the in Australia.Chateau of Cheval Blanc where it makes up appellation of Chinon covers 2300ha of Neill Robb owner and winemaker together58 per cent of the blend with merlot, which vineyards on both sides of the river Vienne, with daughter Sasha at Sally’s Paddock/accounts for the remainder. a tributary lying south of the Loire. Cabernet Redbank Winery have been growingIn Europe cabernet franc is a medium- franc is grown on three types of soils here: cabernet franc in the Pyrenees regionbodied red wine, with noticeable acidity since 1982. Their famous Sally’s Paddock22 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

brand includes cabernet franc along with SHOWCASE YOUR BESTcabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot andmalbec from vines dating back to 1973, South Australian wineries,and Robb celebrated the wine’s 40th culinary creatives, producers,anniversary a couple of years back. I was growers and brewers are allprivileged to taste the back vintages and invited to take part in thethey hold up extremely well, and the brand largest wine and food festivaltruly rates as one of Australia’s iconic in South Australia, all underwines and should receive more attention. one roof in the heart of theThey also produce a straight, full-bodied CBD.cabernet franc which displays bold black For expressions of interestcherry fruit and supple tannins. Robb contactregards it as their most consistent varietal [email protected] opposed to other producers who havedifficulty maintaining the wine quality. “It FEBRUARYseems inconsistent in some regions making 2016a full, rich wine for two years and then athin, light coloured wine the next. It may ADELAIDEbe something to do with irrigation or trying CONVENTIONto maximise production,” Robb comments.“It may be that we are fortunate that this CENTREvariety suits our terroir and our naturallyself-sustaining vineyard practices.” Robb’s www.cellardoorfestival.comvineyards are all dry grown/non-irrigated.It could be that cabernet franc is a fickle,unforgiving variety demanding perfectvintage conditions, low yields and respondswell to organic/biodynamic treatment, andif you stray off these lines then it displaysits nasty side.Sasha Robb adds that cabernet franc isone of their most popular wines at cellardoor, especially with women. “They findit a lot more approachable than a straightcabernet sauvignon,” she comments. Shehas probably hit on one of the problems,cabernet franc is a “hard sell”, a bit of ashy wallflower and needs to be explainedand introduced. July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 23

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGSADDLE SIPPING IN COWBOY COUNTRYGiddy up and go sipping. That’s the The local industry was kick-started in the micro-climate is slightly cooler than otherrallying cry at Cherry Wood Bed, Breakfast 1970s when the US Tobacco Company regions of Washington State, so wineries& Barn in Zillah, in Washington State’s purchased Chateau Ste Michelle and produce a diverse range of varietals, fromYakima Valley. Saddling up to head for one invested millions in vineyard and winery merlot, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon toof the several wineries in the immediate development. Ste Michelle remains the big chardonnay and riesling. Three AVAs makevicinity isn’t just a great day out, you’re also cheese and crushes three out of every five up the Yakima Vally - Red Mountain, thehelping to save your steeds from a one-way grapes in the state’s 13 officially recognised Rattlesnake Hills and Snipes Mountain. Iftrip to the abattoir. Owner Pepper Fewel has American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). you are on a driving holiday, winery touringrescued over 100 former rodeo and ranch is a cinch, with 65 wineries clusteredhorses and around 30 are available to carry Last year the prestigious Conde Nast around the towns of Zillah, Prosser andriders on winery tours. Cowboy hats are Traveler magazine advised readers to Benton City.encouraged and Pepper’s daughter Tiffanyhas coaxed the horses back to physical You know you’re in wine Many of the winemakers specialise inand psychological health using the natural syrah, but don’t limit yourself. Reflectionhorse method showcased in the movie, The country the minute you Vineyards, not far from Cherry Wood,Horse Whisperer. They are so laid back and crafts long-living reds. The Robertsperfect mounts even for occasional riders enter the plush lobby, family of Westport Winery offers classicsuch as myself. gewurztraminers. Drop by at Stottle Winery where six wine tasting where Josh Stottlemyer’s viognier is fruity For those who aren’t so sure they will to the max. Riesling fans should head forstay aboard or want to drink more, Cherry rooms offer some of the Mercier Estates.Wood also offers winery tours in a cowboylimo, a pick-up truck doubling as a hay region’s finest labels. Yakima is also part of the Columbia Valley,wagon. Accommodation is in stylish but Washington State’s largest wine region. Therustic teepees boasting private outdoor by-pass the crowded Napa wine country southernmost part of the area extends toshowers and tubs. Breakfasts are huge and and make a beeline for Yakima Valley, aka the Columbia River Gorge, the dividing linethe coyotes atmospherically call at night, the cradle of the Washington State wine between Washington and Oregon. Soaringbut you don't have to stay overnight in this industry. This is apple-growing country, too, cliffs, a temperature-moderating river andmost breathtaking part of the northwestern and the locals are equally proud of their volcanic hills make up some of the mostUS if you are passing through. Day-trippers cider making. Tieton Cider Works, owned dramatic Manifest Destiny landscapes inare most welcome. by third-generation Yakima apple growers, North America. Little wonder two million opened a state-of-the-art tasting room and tourists pass through each year. Anyone on a drive from Seattle to Oregon production facility last year. According toshould detour into Washington State’s the bartender who poured us a long, cool But Walla Walla is a major draw for Seattlewine country, where fitness fanatics can cider: “We grow the fruit we use. We press, wine lovers. Explorers Lewis and Clarkalso take advantage of cycling, hiking and we ferment, we bottle it all under one roof”. made their way through the unchartedwalking tours. California may have had a country in 1805 and 1806. Missionarieslong head start in the wine business, but There’s plenty of hops, pears and row Marcus and Narissa Whitman followedWashington State, with more than 800 crops in the Yakima Valley, in addition in their footsteps 30 years later and builtwineries is the second largest producer of thousands of hectares of wine grapes. The a mission to convert the local Cayusepremium wines in the US - a definition that Indians. Following an outbreak of measles,covers any bottlings priced at over $US8. which decimated local tribes, the Whitmans and their followers were killed in 1847.24 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

As the parents of the first white child SEPTEMBER 2015born in Orgeon, the Whitman name iscommemorated widely in Walla Walla, from Wine of the Year Public TastingWhitman Street through Whitman College National Wine Centre - ADELAIDEand the Marcus Whitman Hotel. Built in1927, this luxurious grande dame of a 4 September 2015property cost nearly half a million dollarsto build in an era when the term millionaire OCTOBER 2015really meant something. Wines of South Africa Public Tasting By the 1970s, the historic pile had seen Leopards Leap, Franschhoek, Western Cape -better days. But in the early noughties aseries of renovations returned a true sense South Africaof style and elegance to the grand old October 2015building. You know you’re in wine countrythe minute you enter the plush lobby, NOVEMBER 2015where six wine tasting rooms offer someof the region’s finest labels, including Tero “Boutique Wines of Australia”Estates, Flying Trout Wine and Mansion Hong Kong  Creek Cellars. The Marc restaurant, thehotel’s signature eatery, was named 2014 5-7 November 2015Restaurant of the Year in the WashingtonState Wine Awards. Boasting 235 bottlings JANUARY 2016on its wine list, the restaurant’s executivechef Antonio Campolio has a paddock-to- Best of the Westplate approach and sources many of its Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel - PERTHingredients from the hotel’s kitchen garden. 15 January 2016 Campolio describes his culinary styleas “progressive modern American that Wines of South Africablends traditional Northwest flavours Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel - PERTHwith molecular gastronomic twists”. Whatyou get are dishes such as roasted 18 January 2016beef agnolotti with pork belly and lambsweetbreads with orange marmalade, APRIL 2016maltese sauce and blood orange. Thesignature dessert of chocolate custard Best of South Australiawith foie gras gelato, espresso gelato and Veronafiere, Verona - Italycaramelised bananas is justifiably famousin Portland and Seattle. 10 April 2016 Best of South Australia Milan, Italy 15 April 2016 www.winestate.com.au July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 25

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELAndre Simon leaves the Barossa and returns to SydneyIt was January 31, 1964, and the end of had collected Simon and the Gibsons at There was no rest for the Frenchman. Onthe 86-year-old French wine and food writer Penfolds and driven to Seppeltsfield, where Sunday, February 2, Simon enjoyed lunchAndre L Simon’s visit to the Barossa. Since they were shown some of the winery and at the home of his first friend in Australia,arriving in Australia on December 15, he the laboratory, and tasted several wines Jim McGregor, “the magnet who drew mehad had an exhausting time wining and before lunch with the family. Simon noted to Australia”. He was probably delighted todining, often twice a day, as well as visiting with approval that the wines were “all return to drinking European wines insteadwineries and tasting the best wines their cold and so much the better on such a of Australian, and noted 1959 Batardmakers could offer. He had been driven hot day” but unfortunately did not tell us Montrachet, 1947 Domaine de Chevalieraround the major vineyards and wineries what they were, with one exception – “the and 1959 Scharzhofberger, as three greatin New South Wales, Victoria and South now customary Seppelt’s Great Western wines. Then at 8pm he dined at MadameAustralia, gathering information for the Brut”. No other wines are mentioned but Jeanne Renault’s flat with Bill Wedgler, bothbook he was to write, The wines, vineyards the dessert pleased Simon – “delicious leaders of fine wining and dining in Sydney.and vignerons of Australia. He had dined and quite unexpected raspberries picked They prepared the meal for Simon and fivein some of the country’s top restaurants, that morning”. If one is to judge the others: as Simon says, the six guests “ate andand met many members of the world-wide quality and popularity of a wine by the drank and talked till midnight”. They begansociety he had founded - the Wine and number of times its name appeared in with a small Charentais-like melon, thenFood Society. lists of what Simon drank during his visit came a turban of whiting stuffed with trout and truffles, and a creamy, delicious sauce. Weather conditions in SA had been He was probably delighted Then a whole filet de boeuf roti et garni, aferociously hot, with electric fans the only salad, cheese and a sweet. Simon listedsource of any coolness. That last Friday in to return to drinking only four wines; there must have been more,January, when Simon and his guide and or perhaps they drank more of the same.friend, Victor Gibson, and Gibson’s wife, European wines instead They were 1955 Corton Charlemagne, 1949Madge, spent the night in the Angaston Chateau Batailley, 1952 Gevrey ChambertinHotel, began with the temperature at 109F of Australian. and Blanc de Blancs Champagne.(42.7C) at 10am, and dropped to a muchmore pleasant 77F (25C) that evening back to Australia, then Seppelt’s Great Western The following day, as guest of a groupin Adelaide. Temperatures above 40C had Brut wins hands down. But, apart from known as the Australian Wine Consumers’been the norm over the last few days, so Penfolds Minchinbury, there was little Cooperative Society Ltd at a lunch at thethe cool change must have been a great competition in those dark days when Belvedere, it was back to dinkum Aussierelief to Simon. His stamina was amazing. Australian sparklings were rarely made by grog and tucker - baked barramundi the methode champenoise. with “a good hollandaise sauce”, and On the way back to Adelaide Simon noisettes d’agneau “done to a turn”. Thevisited the state-of-the-art winery and “One of the younger Seppelts” drove imposing selection of wines, supplied bylaboratory of Penfolds at Nuriootpa. He the three visitors back to Adelaide, where the Society, were: “Reynella Fino typewas most impressed, especially with an Simon was taken to his final meal in SA by Sherry, 1961 Hardy Rhine Riesling, 1962instrument that could tell to a millionth his host, Victor Gibson, who chose the still Penfolds Traminer and Riesling blend, 1954fraction how much, or rather how little, extant but differently-named Ernest’s Bistro Eric Thomson Great Western Shiraz,lead, copper and other metals are present and Grill Restaurant overlooking the River 1957 Brown’s Milawa Shiraz-cum-Mondeuse,in every wine. Torrens. Again, I have found no record of 1956 Seaview Cabernet-cum-Shiraz, what they ate and drank. Next day, the 1945 Seppelt’s Great Western A visit to the Barossa would certainly Gibsons returned home to Melbourne, while Champagne and Rhine Castle 1% Bruthave been incomplete without calling at Simon flew back to his Sydney home, the Champagne” (sic).Seppeltsfield, then as now regarded as one Belvedere Hotel.of the industry’s showpieces. Simon wasmuch taken with its “enchanting location”.Ian Seppelt, the company’s chairman,26 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015



big impact MICHAEL COOPER North Island, the Wairarapa is a truly cool- climate region, unlike the regions to the The Wairarapa, Nelson and Canterbury north, notably Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne, regions are home to almost a quarter of classified as having “intermediate” climates New Zealand’s wine producers. North and for viticulture. south of Cook Strait, the three regions had just 9.7 per cent of the country’s producing The Wairarapa, including its famous vineyard area in 2015, and last year they sub-region of Martinborough, is the only processed 6.3 per cent of the total grape North Island region in which pinot noir, harvest. rather than Bordeaux varieties or syrah, dominates red-wine plantings. Sauvignon You get the picture - most of the wineries blanc, which yields a slightly riper style than are tiny. Winestate’s tasting of wines from in Marlborough, but still aromatic, fresh and central NZ - I’ll resist the urge to call it racy, accounts for nearly 70 per cent of the Middle Earth - in this edition did not include Wairarapa’s white-wine plantings, followed Marlborough, the source of most NZ wine, distantly by pinot gris. which is the focus of a separate, huge regional tasting. Why is the Wairarapa a region of tiny vineyards? Its consistently small crops Wairarapa (the name means “glistening (during spring and early summer, spells waters”) is often called “the Wairarapa”. of cold, extremely windy weather often Lying in the south-east corner of the lead to a poor flowering) have deterred28 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

Consistently small crops have deterredthe big companies from investing.the big companies from investing. Two South Island region, sauvignon blanc north of Christchurch, where over 85 perof the region’s best-known producers, Te holds sway. cent of the vines are clustered. Pinot noirKairanga and Martinborough Vineyard, (30 per cent) and sauvignon blanc (26 perafter posting heavy financial losses, have Nelson, like the Wairarapa, has never cent) are the most common grapes, butbeen snapped up by American billionaire, attracted investment by corporates. Its Canterbury also has significant areas ofBill Foley. Foley told Wine Spectator, in wineries are almost all small, although riesling (20 per cent) and pinot gris (14the US, that “we are going to become a family-owned Seifried Estate and Waimea per cent).dominant player in Martinborough”. Estates rank among the industry’s medium- sized producers. With total plantings of 1473ha, Canterbury The biggest story in the region is the is almost 50 per cent bigger than theresurgence of Te Kairanga. Often called Unlike the Wairarapa - think Martinborough, Wairarapa or Nelson. Over the past five“TK” (an easier name to pronounce think pinot noir - Nelson’s identity does not vintages, the region’s 66 wineries havein export markets), Te Kairanga owns hinge on a single grape variety. A highly produced nearly twice as much wine as thesubstantial vineyards at Martinborough and versatile region, with a sunny, temperate 67 producers in the Wairarapa, althoughRuakokoputuna. climate, silty plains and clay-based hill barely more than Nelson’s 37. country, it succeeds with chardonnay, Te Kairanga no longer buys grapes from sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and aromatic Simon McGeorge, of Waipara Hills,Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay or Marlborough for whites, especially riesling, pinot gris and believes the district’s growers are nowa range of lower-priced wines - the focus is gewurztraminer. starting to hit their straps. “Most vineyardsexclusively on high quality wines from the have been here for quite some time, withWairarapa. Te Kairanga’s 2014 sauvignon Nelson wines were until recently promoted the 10 or 15-year-old vines tending to makeblanc, 2014 riesling, 2013 chardonnay and under the banner “Nelson Wineart”, chosen more interesting wines.”a trio of 2013 pinot noirs, all scored four to celebrate the region’s thriving communitystars or more in the regional tasting. of artists. However, a review discovered the A recent study by Dr Roland Harrison, name was confusing to consumers and it is of Lincoln University, found Canterbury Nelson’s vineyards are dominated by being replaced by the simpler, to-the-point has more diverse soils than other NZ winethe same two grape varieties as the “Wine Nelson”. regions and that their influence can beWairarapa’s, but in reverse proportions. In tasted in the wines. “The best aromaticsthe Wairarapa, pinot noir accounts for half Canterbury’s vineyards, on the east coast were in wines off the gravels and those fromof the total plantings; in the same-sized of the South Island, are dominated by the the clay had more depth. relatively warm Waipara sub-region, just Opposite: Te Kairanga’s popular cellar door is in The Cottage, built in the late 1800s.  It was originally the home of a senior stockman for John Martin, the founder of Martinborough. This page: Palliser Estate, one of the biggest and best producers 29 in Martinborough, markets consistently impressive pinot noirs, chardonnays and sauvignon blancs under its Palliser and lower- priced PencarroJwublyra/nAdusg. ust 2015 W I N E S TAT E

AGAINST THE ODDS Tropical Thailand isn’t a first-choice wine centre, but a handfull of grape growers are determined to develop a viable and successful industry.

Denis GastinTHAILAND is not at the top of the ladder in employ 1500 people. There are seven performance. Most of the winemakers havethe global wine game, but some impressive other winemaking operations that have had experience in overseas wineries andachievers have managed to stand out - and either opted not to join or whose practices most wineries invite international expertsnot just locally, but on the global wine stage. would not comply with the association’s to work with them in Thailand to address standards. local challenges. I’ve been watching the emergence of theindustry in Thailand for almost 20 years Four of the members are located in the But there is plenty of local professionaland have been increasingly impressed Khao Yai region, in the foothills of the talent, too. One standout is Nikki Lohitnavy,with what is evolving. In January I was stunning Khao Yai National Park about a Thailand’s first fully qualified femaleable to update comprehensively as a two-hour drive northeast of Bangkok. The winemaker. She is the daughter of Visoothguest member of the team that inspects other members are in the tourist resort and Sakuna Lohitnavy, the founders in thethe wineries and vineyards of members of regions of Pattaya and Hua Hin. late 1990s of the impressive GranMontethe Thai Wine Association (TWA) each year vineyard (and ultimately winery) at anto ensure they are in compliance with the The core of the TWA charter is the elevation of 350m in the Asoke Valley ofassociation’s strict authenticity and quality requirement that members must be Khao Yai.charter. This code was an Asian first and producing wines from locally grown grapes.stands as a very tangible demonstration of If any imported grape must is used it can Nikki says that after working with her Dadhow seriously the industry takes itself and represent no more than 15 per cent and, in the vineyard on weekends and schoolhow determined it is to benchmark to global if included, it has to be declared on the holidays she decided, at age 14, thatstandards, despite the obvious challenges label - another Asian first. her destiny was with wine. In particular,of a tropical climate. she thought she should be able to take One more indicator of the determination of GranMonte from vineyard to winery as, The TWA has six members - four with members to address global benchmarks is initially, the GranMonte wines were beingvineyards and wineries, and two with just the extent to which they draw on expertise made for the family at a nearby winery.vineyards (at this stage). Together they from New World and Old World sources So she moved to Melbourne to complete to help upgrade vineyard and winery her final years of high school and in 2005 to the University of Adelaide to complete a bachelor’s degree in oenology. She graduated in 2008, winning the Wolf Blass award for Excellence in Winemaking that gave her a vintage as assistant winemaker at the Barossa winery to smooth the transition from academia to practicality. While studying she also did a vintage with Brown Brothers in Victoria. It was always her plan to return to the GranMonte and, in anticipation of this, Visooth began to build a winery. She has worked each vintage there since 2009 as manager of both the viticulture and winery operations. But she also has, and energetically maintains, a very global outlook on wine. So, after vintage each year she heads off to another country to steep herself in the local wine culture both to learn and to share her own experiences. She has now worked in vineyards and wineries in five other countries, on the July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 31

other three continents. In Europe she has A surprise to almost everybody, and the spicy local foods. In the GranMonteworked in France (including at Bordeaux’s especially for Australians, will be theCh. Angelus) and Portugal, at Quinta de results with durif and verdelho. Nikki first vineyards it is early ripening, with big darkRoriz in Douro. In South Africa she worked experienced durif when working at Brownat Stellenbosch and Klein Constantia. She Brothers and planted it because she knew it berries and robust yields.has also worked in Latin America (Brazil to be disease resistant, consistently deeply The verdelho is another very impressiveand Mexico). coloured, with a firm tannin base. She initially envisioned it as a blending variety, wine that will open eyes globally. Nikki A visit to GranMonte reveals the fruitful but will shortly be releasing Asia’s first introduced this variety to provide a contrastresults of Nikki’s global roaming. While to their stalwart chenin blanc. There was a tiny first vintage in 2012 from vines GranMonte’s impressive list of international awards planted in 2009 that showed potential stands as testimony to what can be achieved in with surprising varietal character and an appealing palate impression. The 2013 isThailand - and other countries with tropical climates. even more impressive, with even higher levels of varietal expression, a very richstill predominantly dependent on the pure durif from the 2014 vintage, and it will texture and fig-like aromas and flavours.originally introduced varieties - especially certainly be seen as a standout. In contrastshiraz and chenin blanc - her international to the traditional “big” durif from northeast Viognier was introduced as a possibleexperiences have now led to 30 varieties Victoria, this one has a soft and refreshingly addition to the premium syrahs but Nikkibeing trialled at GranMonte in pursuit of fruity character that appeals very much as thought it was good enough for release aseven better vineyard results. a stand alone varietal white: it has already a young wine and is a natural match with won gold medals and more are certain to follow. Other recent additions to the range are a grenache rosé, a chenin blanc/ semillon/muscat sticky and, most recently, an impressive methode traditionelle extra brut cremant from 100 per cent chenin blanc grapes that sits in the bottle for 18 months pre-release. Still in the experimental stage are semillon, sangiovese, barbera and, now since Nikki’s experiences in Portugal, touriga nacional and touriga franca. Tempranillo and chardonnay, though, have been abandoned. GranMonte’s impressive list of international awards stands as testimony to what can be achieved in Thailand - and other countries with tropical climates. Among the 100-plus awards won over the past four years are trophies and gold medals from prestigious international wine competitions such as Syrah du Monde, UK IWSC, AWC Vienna, the Hong Kong IWSC, Decanter World Wine Awards and the Japan Wine Challenge. And, for Nikki, winning a Blue Gold medal at the Sydney IWC in 2014 with her favourite wine, the syrah rosé, which is named in honour of her mother, Sakuna,32 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

would undoubtedly have been a fulfilling resource for GranMonte is intense. The viticulture exchange among members ofachievement. vines look totally manicured - no “wild” the recently formed Asian Wine Producers elements at all. GranMonte works with Association. The established standout labels winning a precision operating system calledmost of these awards are The Orient Syrah, Smart Vineyard, which incorporates a Looking to the future, there are sure to beThe Heritage Syrah, Asoke Cabernet Syrah, microclimate monitoring system for vines. more surprising outcomes in Thailand. It isthe Spring Chenin Blanc and Sakuna Nikki and Visooth see this system as a great still early days for the wine industry thereSyrah Rosé. Interestingly, though, the way to achieve the best possible quality and the determination among the TWAbarrel-fermented viognier has emerged and yield outcomes in this unconventional members is quite profound, all of which isquickly as a strong contender since the first climate for viticulture. They are now also obvious to the visitor.commercial release in 2010. And warming testing organic viticulture techniques.up in the background is the verdelho. Previous pages: Beautiful entrance to GranMonte and Experimentation is at the core of the Father & daughter winemakers at GranMonte. The vineyard area is 15ha, the annual GranMonte philosophy and it is thereforecrush is around 80 tonnes and the winery appropriate that Nikki will be the regional Opposite page: Inspecting the grapes.capacity is 120,000 bottles per year. The co-ordinator of technical oenology and Above top: Vineyard worker at GranMonte.attention to the vineyards as the prime July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 33

IN CLASSIC company34 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

Bordeaux’s great contribution to theworld of wine continues to grow its reputation.DAN TRAUCKIFOR THE last 200 years or so most of the world’s wine drinkers haveregarded claret (Bordeaux reds) as the glorious pinnacle of red wine. In 1855, an official classification of the red wines of Bordeaux wasestablished, which ranked the wines based on their then reputationand price. They were divided into five levels (growths). The six grapevarieties, which were officially permitted to be used at the time ofthe classification, were cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc,carmenere, malbec and petit verdot. With typical French flexibility, in the 160 years since then, theyhave made only two changes to the rankings - the first in 1856 whenChateau Cantemerle (fifth growth) was added and secondly, andmost significantly, that of the elevation of Chateau Mouton Rothschildto first growth in 1973. While their classification stays the same, today’s Bordeaux winesare very different from those of 1855. This is primarily due to the factthat the vine louse phylloxera ravaged French vineyards from 1875to 1892 and during that time all the vineyards had to be replanted.As part of the replanting, carmenere disappeared from the vineyardsof Bordeaux and became almost extinct. There have also beenconsolidations/changes of properties and, more importantly, changesin blend compositions.July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 35

Well-made cabernet sauvignon, be it as a straight varietal, as part of a Bordeaux blend, or as the classic Aussie blend with shiraz, is a glorious wine. Today most Bordeaux reds consist of the old world and the new. It has thrived two to three varieties. Mainly they are not only as a straight varietal, but also made from cabernet sauvignon, merlot as the ubiquitous cabernet merlot blend. and in some instances cabernet franc. In Australia cabernet has also found a There are a few clarets that are cabernet great “mate” in shiraz. We are the only franc predominant such as the awesome wine producing country that has taken Chateau Cheval Blanc, but one suspects to making premium cabernet shiraz and that cabernet franc is much more widely shiraz cabernet blends, with some of the used than what it is given credit for, as the outstanding wines such as Penfolds Bin Bordelaise do not show the grape varieties 389 as a result. on their wine labels. Merlot has thrived, too, but much more In the 160 years since the classification so at the commercial end of the spectrum pronouncement was made cabernet rather than at the premium end, with a sauvignon and to a lesser extent merlot sea of mediocre cabernet merlots and have gone on to thrive in most parts of merlot being made, and only a handful of the world where wine is made. There top quality merlot wines such as Chateau are top-ranking cabernets made in just Petrus and Irvine Grand Merlot. about every winemaking country, both in36 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

Until recently cabernet franc has been The last of the unloved trio is petit verdot, It will be interesting to see over the nextinvisible as the backbone of the red which was used in Bordeaux to add two decades or so if the effects of globalwines of the Loire and as a minor blender body and colour to their reds, especially warming mean that the Bordelaise willelsewhere. In the last decade it has in lighter vintages. One of the few start to plant more of the three “unloved”,started to “come out” with some excellent chateaux still doing so is the third growth, sun-seeking varieties so that in time thevarietal labelled wines being produced Chateau Palmer. wines of Bordeaux might move towardsin Australia and other “new world” wine being of similar composition to their 1855countries. Petit verdot needs spades of sunshine predecessors, by whose standards they to ripen fully, which is not often available are still judged today. It has a long way to go to reach serious in Bordeaux. In cooler vintages, petitlevels of recognition, but it is heading in verdot produces a very tannic, green and So the long and the short of it is that nothe right direction. weedy wine. However in Australia, in most matter where it comes from, well-made regions it receives plenty of sunshine and cabernet sauvignon, be it as a straight On the other hand, malbec, carmenere has become its new spiritual home. When varietal, as part of a Bordeaux-blend, orand petit verdot have slowly faded into winemakers in warmer regions keep in as the classic Aussie blend with shiraz, isthe background in Bordeaux, if used check petit verdot’s tannic tendencies, a glorious wine that is a joy to behold bothat all. These three shunned/overlooked they produce big-bodied, deeply coloured in its youth and as it ages gracefully.varieties have over time migrated to other wines with masses of flavour that are a joycountries where with greater sunshinethey have thrived and made excellent to drink.wines in their own right. Malbec has faded away in Bordeaux(80 per cent drop in plantings) sincethe massive frosts of 1956 and it wasn’twidely replanted due to its need for sun. Malbec does make some superb winesin the sunnier Cahors region of SouthernFrance. On the other side of the worldit has thrived in Argentina to the extentthat it has become their “national” grapevariety, in the same way that shiraz hasbecome Australia’s. In Australia, aftera couple of false starts when malbecwas made using the same techniquesas shiraz, there are a few winemakersmaking premium quality malbec wineswith svelte, varietal flavours. Carmenere, another variety that needsplenty of sunshine, was used in theMedoc until phylloxera almost wiped outthe French vineyards in the late 1880s.When the vineyards were replanted,carmenere was not. In 1994 it wasdiscovered that much of Chile’s merlotvines were carmenere, planted fromvines brought into the country prior to theEuropean phylloxera outbreak. Since thenthis interesting variety is experiencinga solid revival spearheaded by Chile,which has the oldest carmenere vinesin the world. The first few Australiancarmenere wines have recently appearedon the market. July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 37

SLEEPING BEAUTIES A METHODICAL AND BUSINESS-LIKE APPROACH HAS PUSHED SHINGLEBACK INTO THE TOP TIER OF THE WINE INDUSTRY.NIGEL HOPKINSSHINGLEBACK is named after a lizard, John graduated from Roseworthy Collegetiliquia rugosa, better known in South with a degree in oenology and joinedAustralia as a sleepy lizard. But there’s the Mildara Blass group as a winemaker,been nothing sleepy about the way initially at Krondorf Winery in the BarossaShingleback has built market share here Valley. Later he would work as bothand abroad over the past 25 years. winemaker and consultant in Langhorne Creek, the Yarra Valley, Wrattonbully and “We were the first wine company to have California. Kym went into business, drawinga ‘critter’ label,” says managing director on his agricultural experience to establishKym Davey, who established Shingleback a major civic landscaping company andat McLaren Vale with his winemaker advanced tree nursery.brother John in 1998. It was a salute totheir farm boy upbringing on a family But by 1998 both were ready for aproperty at Yundi, south of McLaren Vale in change. “By then I had experience ofthe heart of the Fleurieu Peninsula, where reasonable size business management inthey kept sleepy lizards as family pets. a very competitive industry, while John had such expertise and skill as a winemaker And although both John and Kym moved that we had to ask ‘why do it for someoneon to careers far from their cattle raising else?’. If you’re going to be that good, whyearly days, their farming roots remained not do it for yourself? And we also had aimportant and eventually that’s what very special piece of dirt that we judged tothey returned to, on land bought by their be an exceptional prospect.”grandfather in the 1950s.38 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015





We take a modern but minimalist approach to crafting ourwines using small batch open fermenters, gentle handling, pressing and maturation that respect the fruit. All up, that piece of dirt amounted to calibrated portfolio of wines. These range These sorts of deals have freed Johnaround 200ha of the finest McLaren Vale from an elite Unedited Shiraz that was and Hills to continue to make wines thatsoil which their family had used for cattle accepted as one of the McLaren Vale reflect the heart and soul of McLaren Vale,grazing and growing hay. The high calcium Scarce Earth single block wines that best perhaps best reflected in the Davey Estatesoil that was excellent for raising strong, typify the region, selling for around $80, to range at $25, but also in the Shinglebackyoung heifers was also ideal for growing a series of relatively inexpensive labels - range of seven wines, again at that mid-vines. Around 110ha has now been planted headlined by the Red Knot family of wines price point.with grapes - “possibly the largest privately - sold exclusively by the major supermarketowned McLaren Vale vineyard that bottles chains for around $15. “We take a modern but minimalistall that it grows under its own label,” Kym approach to crafting our wines using smallventures - while the rest is farmed. The Red Knot story is instructive because batch open fermenters, gentle handling, it was introduced, Kym says, almost as pressing and maturation that respect Their biggest early concern, reliable water an afterthought, initially targeting the US the fruit, which results in balanced, foodsupply, was overcome the following year market. friendly wines, expressive of their terroirwhen they went in as founding partners of and variety,” John says.the Willunga Basin Water Company, which “I felt the wine industry was changingnow provides half the district’s irrigation and that, as a result, we had to change. There’s prestige, too, in the D Blockwater. “That made us bulletproof,” Kym I asked John (senior winemaker) and our shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, reservesays. winemaker Dan Hills to make this wine and wines made only in the best vintages. they weren’t too keen at first. We were used The Shingleback trophy cabinet includes His business experience dictated several to making wines at $25-$30 a bottle. a Jimmy Watson Trophy won in 2006things. They had to be big enough to for its 2005 shiraz. In 2013 the D Blockachieve economies of scale, have the best “Now they’re extremely proud of it. It takes Cabernet was awarded champion cabernetequipment, hire good vineyard managers much more effort to make a wine of this sauvignon at the Royal Queensland Wineand so on, while remaining boutique at quality, at this price point, and still win gold Show.heart. Kym reckoned they were the perfect medals - and that’s what they’ve done.”size to achieve that. “It’s no secret that in this business, to John has been quoted as saying: “If survive, you have to embrace all your “We also took a very businesslike, you’re not over-delivering, you won’t be opportunities,” Kym says. “But what we’vescientific approach to our development and around for long.” Woolworths must agree also done is to be true to our region and toasked ourselves what our primary markets with him because it took exclusive rights our values. Our proposition to the marketshould be,” he says. “We were in the right to sell Red Knot and has seen sales soar is every bit as good as that of a sixth-place at the right time from a marketing to around 100,000 cases a year, more than generation winery - we just have to do it aperspective, especially in the US where I half Shingleback’s total production. It’s now little bit better.had good business contacts.” listed among the top 20 advertised wines in Australia. “That means paying attention to detail They also elected not to build their own right across our business so that we don’twinery: “I’ve been in business since I was Other supermarket deals include the make mistakes, and getting someone who18 and I’ve seen businesses that were over slightly dearer Davey Brothers Shiraz knows how to run our company as our CEO.capitalised, plant and equipment not fully - Red Knot’s big brother - also through We chose our bank manager.”utilised. We had vineyards next to those at Woolworths, the Haycutter range of threeSteve Maglieri’s Serafino and it made sense wines through Coles and the newly- Previous page: Winemaker & owner, John Davey.to have our wines made there.” released South Coast range exclusively to independent wine retailers, again at Left page top: Winemakers Dan Hills & John Davey What then evolved was a most carefully around $15. barrel tasting. Left page bottom: Owners, Kym Davey & John Davey.

A GROWING TASTE FOR ORGANICS JOY WALTERFANGDespite its We were digging deep into the Winestate Tamburlaine, located in New South Wales,mainstream archives the other day and found an article is one of Australia’s largest producers ofacceptance, we ran in the 2001 July/August issue organic wines. According to its founderorganics is covering the then emerging organic wine and chief winemaker Mark Davidson theirstill finding industry. Fourteen years on we thought it move to organic farming was “as muchits way in time to again take the pulse of the world of as anything a response to the failure ofthe world of organics and see how it’s faring. non-organic farming practices to deliverwine. sustainable fruit quality over a range of Things have changed; consumers are seasonal conditions. much more health conscious and more environmentally aware. There has been “A hell of a lot has changed in viticulture a huge increase in the availability of over the last decade or two,” he said. organic produce, especially fresh fruit and “The respect for and adoption of organic vegetables, and many celebrity chefs are viticulture within the industry has grown actively pushing the organic barrel and significantly. Over the years many helping the cause. Growing organically is agricultural chemicals were not only now considered an established production found to be ineffective but some were de- system. registered for human health reasons. In 2013 there were still over 100 agrichemicals So why is there still resistance among in use in Australia that had been de- a large percentage of wine consumers registered in the EU.” to go organic? What does organic wine really mean? One obstacle impeding the growth of certified organic producers is the length Well it’s not rocket science. All it means of time it takes for them to achieve full is wines are produced from grapes that certification and the inherent amount of have been grown in soils that are so paperwork that goes with it. There is a three- healthy they don’t need to be bombarded year conversion program for a vineyard to with artificial pesticides, herbicides or be certified to A-grade organic status and fertilisers. In turn the wines are made it cannot be considered organic during with minimal intervention and without that time. Even if growers and producers artificial ingredients, genetically modified had been farming sustainably for years, organisms or irradiation. Good for our voluntarily following organic practices, the health and the health of the environment.42 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

If the top organic wineries took the labels off their wines and put them in conventional tastings I defy 99.9 per cent of judges to tell the difference.certification process does not take that end of last year we had over 490 inquiries far, been unsuccessful. What this means forinto consideration; producers still have to for organic certification,” Copeman said. “In consumers is anyone can claim to be ango through the lengthy conversion. That is the first three months of this year we have organic producer even if they aren’t - thereuntil this year. already had 330 inquiries. Multiply that by is no law to stop it and no repercussions four and we will be looking at well over 1200 for the perpetrators, unless of course any On February 1 the government inquiries for the year. The interest is quite of the five organic certification logos areannounced the removal of the 12-month extraordinary.” used illegally.pre-certification period for organic primaryproducers. The lengthy process to full Since 2001 the number of independent Although Kaye Nobbs, of Settlers Ridgecertification could be reduced to as little bodies accredited by the government to Wines in Margaret River, despairs of thoseas 12 months now for those producers perform organic certification has increased. who erroneously claim to be organic, shewho can prove they have been following In 2001 there were just three, today there does see a positive side to it. “It showsproper organic management practices over are five plus two state organisations: there must be more demand from the publica number of years. NASAA, Australian Certified Organic (ACO) for organic products otherwise why would formally BSA, Organic Food Chain (OFC), producers say they are organic when they A great move, according to Ben Aus-Qual and Biodynamic Research aren’t?” she said.Copeman, National Association for Institute (BDRI).Sustainable Agriculture Australia (NASAA) Settlers Ridge has been producinggeneral manager. “This means not only a NASAA was the first organisation in organic wines for two decades and almostsubstantial cutting down of the required Australia to provide organic certification. all its red wines made since then have beentime frame to full organic certification but Incorporated in 1986, it now operates in awarded either gold or silver up againstit will also significantly reduce the costs of 13 countries, affects the lives of 14,000 so called conventionally made wines inthe process for producers.” farmers globally and certifies in excess of mainstream wine shows. 7.7 million hectares making it the largest But would this compromise the integrity of certifier of agricultural land in the world. “We don’t want people saying it is goodorganic certification? “Not at all,” Copeman “We would probably have the biggest for an organic wine. It is like saying you’reexplained. “Operators are still required global reach of any of the certification doing a good job for a woman! We knewto demonstrate compliance with organic bodies,” Copeman said. we had to prove to people that you don’tstandards for at least 36 months and compromise on quality being organic andconventional farmers will continue to take But the thorn that still resides in the the only way to be taken seriously was tothe full three years to complete conversion side of Australian organic producers is win against conventional wines,” she said.to organic.” the lack of state or federal legislation to cover organic products and producers. As Copeman says: “If the top organic Changes in this certification process are Despite several decades of campaigning wineries took the labels off their wines andstarting to show up on the radar. “Up to the for legislation the organic industry has, so put them in conventional tastings I defy 99.9 per cent of judges to tell the difference. July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 43

melbournegrapevineHilary McNevinWE ARE loving our casual diners here in “Shackertisers” now called Shack Snacks to support the community here,” he says.Melbourne. Some are moving to bigger have a few new dishes such as crunchy He has taken the produce-to-plate conceptdigs, others are new, others are evolving. corn with salted ricotta and lime chipotle quite literally by utilising much of the marketFinding a good, local, affordable place to crema and the bucket of boiled prawns vendor’s produce to create an evolvingdine gets easier and easier in Melbourne with cocktail sauce replaces the crispy fried seasonal menu. This is highlighted throughtown. crustaceans served in North Melbourne. the weekly changing salads where the But much of the following Marron has current favourites are grilled pears, walnut, Miss Katie’s Crab Shack has moved into garnered is based on her low-country boil, tahini and ricotta, or smoked trout, kipflerlarger, fancier premises and it suits her. inspired by the classic dish from Louisiana. potatoes, rye crumb and mustard dressing.Katie Marron, the cook who was boiling Here she’s offering a “build your own boil” There are also some sturdy staples, likeswimmer crabs and spicing up popcorn where you can add prawns, pipis, mussels Market roast rolls filled with corned Wayguin the small front room of The Public Bar and oysters to the just boiled swimmer brisket with pickles, cabbage and mustardin North Melbourne until late last year has crab, served over boiled potatoes, corn or free-range roast chicken and sage, onionopened larger premises in the Rochester cobs and sausage, with sides of melted and cranberry stuffing. The changing sweetHotel Fitzroy. Marron has teamed up with butter and chilli sauce. The fried chicken treats are also worth a look - banoffee potsBrigitte and Jon Costelloe, who own comes with a choice of mash and gravy, and red velvet teacake stand up to the well-the inner-northern Abbotsford venues or waffles and maple syrup, and the drinks made Toby’s Estate coffee. 322 Coventry St,Aviary Hotel, the Vic Bar and Dr Morse, list includes cocktails, iced teas, wine and South Melbourne; phone (03) 9699 7057.and the pub’s general manager Stuart beers, including the house brew, HollywoodMoss to purchase the pub. The group Draught and Young Henry’s Real Ale Popular city diner Nieuw Amsterdam hashas completely renovated it with the brewed in Sydney. 202 Johnston St, Fitzroy; maintained its New York diner theme andhelp of interior designer Meg Milton, who phone (03) 9419 0166. evolved the menu while including somehas recently arrived from London. There of its “Nieuw favourites”, including a two-is certainly an oceanic influence in the Chef Eugene Lavery, who moved to day cooked smoky brisket and moreishdecor; crab pots and port holes serve as Melbourne from his native Northern Ireland pumpkin donuts. The new menu will featurelight shades and the beer garden features 20 years ago, has taken over what was a very decadent mac’n’cheese souffle,mulch made from crushed sea shells, but Plato’s Potatoes in the South Melbourne which is light and fluffy while weighing in onthere’s also a very inner-city Melbourne market and turned it into a shmick operation the rich side of cheese, and shrimp’n’gritsfeel with custom-made wooden furniture, called Proper & Son. The space, empty for take comfort food to a whole new level. Thelots of bare brick, rendered concrete and six months, has been fitted out by Ivanhoe- restaurant took our attention when Michael100-year-old French oak through the bar based design studio, Two Feathers, and the Roszbach opened it in the centre of the cityarea. The menu has grown, too, and gone brief from Lavery was for the room to be in early 2014. The US-style food also hasare the polystyrene containers holding “utilitarian, to embrace the market and the hints of French technique and the drinks listcrunchy fried chicken and jumbles of people who use it,” and they’ve created a is a feast of cocktails, beer and wine to sateprawns, and in their place are weighty pots, room that is functional, open and light, with the late night imbibers. 106-122 Hardwaremetal buckets and smart crockery holding blonde wood furniture, lots of white tiles and St, Melbourne; phone (03) 9602 2111.the simple dishes she’s gained attention for black beams over the open kitchen. Lavery,with a few variations. who has owned and operated Cafeteria in Above: Prawn dish, cocktail and crispy chips from Black Rock for the last 10 years, moved Nieuw Amsterdam. into his second business to “open a place44 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KINGHO CHI MINH City has some very spiffy Mama’s buoi buoi, soft-shelled crab served are just feeling peckish, the share platesrestaurants featuring upmarket decor and with papaya and pomelo salad. Traditional are sensational, from jalapeno croquettesmusicians playing classical instruments. hot-pots such as bokho, a pungent stew with manchego cheese and romescoBut some of the best food is found in of beef spareribs, and thijst kho, a superb aioli to the field mushroom arancini withslightly distressed-looking eateries with blend of caramelised pork belly and boiled parmesan and truffle. Massaman curriesretro furniture and decorative knick-knacks free-range eggs in coconut sauce, proved have become standard fare but many arethat would rate as kitsch anywhere else. the universal point that mama knows best. undistinguished, to be polite. Not so theYou won’t find kids trying to flog you copies But my favourite menu option was the special of the day at the Balmain Hotel.of Graham Green’s The Quiet American barbecue marinated wagyu beef steak The beef massaman curry was fragrant,outside the latest Mama’s Buoi venture wrapped in betel leaves and served with aromatic and succulent atop basmati rice.in Crow’s Nest, as you would in the former pickles and nuoc mam fish sauce. For Gourmet burgers have become a majorSaigon. But for those who love Vietnamese contrasting flavours and textures that trend in Sydney and Ferraro’s falafel burgerfood, the authenticity of the cooking here clicked on the palate, it’s hard to beat. (baked, not fried) with spiced chickpeas,will save a lot on airfares. Co-owner Boa Room for more? If not, make some for the beetroot, tahina dressing and labnaHoang and his mother, simply known che chuoi dessert of bananas and sago in heads a tightly edited list of imaginativeas Mama Hoang, opened their original warm coconut cream or coconut and lime patties, including soft shell crab burgerrestaurant in Melbourne before launching pannacotta. There’s a huge outdoor eating with sriracha mayo and shaved fennel.two more in Sydney. The first in Surry Hills space but for the most atmospheric meal Yes, there’s Texas Black Angus Steak (aand this much larger corner establishment make a reservation next to the open kitchen 300g serving), southern style schnitzel andon the lower North Shore. Tiw Rakarin, the where you can see the chefs and the family barbeque spareribs for big appetites, buthead chef, has created an original menu, photos that give Mama’s Buoi its trademark Ferraro recommends the pan-fried mahiat once contemporary and traditional, from sense of soul. 77 Willoughby Rd, Crow’s mahi with pineapple quinoa salsa, Chinesea pho based on Mama’s secret recipe Nest; phone (02) 9438 5005. broccoli and jerk sauce as a solid butto mini-banquets, including pulled duck more delicate “filler”. And he’s bang on thepancakes and traditional papaya salad with The Balmain Hotel, rejuvenated by the money. The Balmain Hotel, 72-76 Mullensdried beef. Eclectic is a mean description Balmain Pub Group, celebrated its second St, Balmain; phone (02) 9810 7500.for a wine list that veers from Canard birthday in the most sensible way byDuchene Cuvee Leonie Champagne to appointing a new head chef. Mark Ferraro Enmore Rd is fast catching up with nearbythe house white, a pinot grigio from King has worked the ranges in some of Sydney’s King St in Newtown as one of Sydney’sValley. There’s a strong list of Vietnamese, noted destination restaurants, including hottest eat streets. The trendy HemmesLaotian and local beers. But many diners the Boathouse at Blackwattle Bay, Moran’s Group recently bought the Queen Victoriawere smartly downing the superbly made and Bather’s Pavilion. Ferraro blends his Hotel near the Enmore Theatre but it wascocktails - all $16 - including Miss Saigon, Italian heritage with his professional Asian more an acknowledgement of an accepteda riff on a strawberry mojito with Vietnamese expertise in a new menu designed to haul fact than a pioneering move. Hartsyard,mint. If you don’t choose the share and in more fans for the tiki-inspired “poshtel”. the best American diner-style restaurant inlarge plates, it’s easy to cherry-pick through Firm favourites such as chicken larb choy Sydney, has been drawing accolades sincethe extensive menu. We started with cha gio bow and the beef cheek, ale and bacon pie Greg Llewellyn and Naomi Hart started- Hanoi-style spring rolls stuffed with pork have been retained but there’s plenty of on- dishing up their addictive fried chickenand seafood. A less familiar choice was trend salads to tempt the health conscious, and po’boys. A couple of blocks up, thethe goi cuon, freshly-rolled rice paper rolls from the superfood salad (quinoa, lentils, pioneering duo have opened a seafood-with a choice of fillings from pork and prawn barley, almonds, sweet potato, kale themed bar called The Gretz, named afterto barbecue chicken. Like the cocktails, and cranberries) to Ferraro’s personal a Philadelphia brewery founded by one ofsalads are a specialty from goi bap chuoi favourite of crispy pork salad with pickled Llewellyn’s forebears. The bar stools are- banana blossom salad with mango - to watermelon, chilli and coriander. If you upholstered with recycled denim jeans and beers on tap include brews from Young Henry’s and The Grifter. Nets, oars and blue paint intensify the maritime feeling. Don’t miss the clams casino - an inspired take on the traditional ’50’s favourite - the sea urchin on toast and house-made salmon jerky. The Gretz, 125 Enmore Rd, Enmore; phone (02) 8068 1473. Above: Mama's Buoi restaurant. July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 45

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSCHEF Duncan Welgemoed has returned to crab sitting on charred cos lettuce hearts in the charge of Spanish chef Alfonsohis South African roots at his new restaurant with a South African cider sauce, shavings Ales, has started with a largely GreekAfricola, after a journey that’s taken him of kingfish cured in salt, sugar, orange peel focused menu, although he’s promised athrough Michelin-starred restaurants in the and dried apricot skin, on a green morogo more multicultural listing in the future. ManyUK (Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, The Fat (wild spinach) sauce - all under a shard of would wonder why he’d bother after theDuck) and a stint running the acclaimed squid ink infused toasted nori and a couple early praise for Ales’ very modern take onBistro Dom in Adelaide. South Africa, like of massive chargrilled king prawns with Greek cuisine, which is hardly surprisingAustralia, has had multiple migrations pumpkin two ways - a sweetish puree with given his background in Michelin-starredof people since the 17th century from yuzu, a Japanese citrus, and pickled raw restaurants in Europe and a couple of high-Portugal, the Netherlands, Germany, in green atchar, made with unripe green profile Sydney establishments.France and the UK. The resulting melting mangoes and chilli.pot brought what was known as “rainbow” His rice and herb-stuffed tomato comescuisine, but none of it has come close to If you were to have just one dish at with a kefalotyri cheese foam and freshwhat Welgemoed is doing at Africola. For Africola it should be peri-peri chicken, fennel, the wood grill-charred octopusa start, the place just looks like a fun place based on a famous sauce invented by comes with almond cream, Kalamatato be, with a design scheme that suggests Welgemoed’s late father and still made olives and preserved lemon, there’s a saladMambo meets Freda Kahlo meets African and sold by his mother in Johannesburg. of “ancient grains” with toasted brownshebeen. It’s a blaze of colour and looks Fabulously good chicken in mpumalanga rice and pomegranate seeds, and largerhaphazard, which merely disguises very fire sauce (a caramelised version of the dishes designed for sharing between twodeliberate detail, with a mix of kitchen bar fresh peri-peri sauce on the table in Coke or three such as a classic slow braisedstools overlooking the fire pit, wood oven bottles), with an iron pot of meltingly soft lamb shoulder served with tzatziki. 131and bar, intimate banquettes and outdoor chicken hearts and livers, a second pot King William St. Adelaide. Open for lunchtables. Welgemoed’s menu opens with the of pap (maize meal porridge) topped with Thursday-Friday, dinner Tuesday-Saturday;Afrikaans favourite, biltong - in this case tomato gravy and leek ash, and a small phone (08) 7123 4055.thick chunks of dried Coorong Angas beef, side dish of banana curry. There’s no betterlots of flavour, great for the jaw muscles, dish in town, best eaten with a glass of In a precinct now awash with wine barsmarginally better than chewing your shoes. Lammershoek Roulette, a blend of shiraz, and hamburger joints Bread and BoneMuch easier is the tiny, crunchy kapenta carignan and grenache from Swartland. stands out, not least due to its pedigreeriver fish, imported from Zambia, with peri- 4 East Tce, Adelaide. Open for dinner as part of the Press Food and Wineperi mayonnaise ($5). It’s a small menu with Tuesday-Saturday; phone (08) 8223 3885. partnership. Tucked upstairs with an artfullots of things you’ve never heard of (morogo semi-industrial design, B&B’s open kitchensauce, boom chakalakka and so on) but The series of very expensive restaurant helps create an intimate, very personalno need to panic. The easy way out is to restorations and makeovers in Adelaide space with extensive counter seatinglet them feed you with the kitchen menu (Sean’s Kitchen, Madame Hanoi, Jamie’s and several communal tables, with moreand let the super friendly waiting staff lead Italian, Mayflower) continues with the $10 casual seating in the short tunnel linkingyou through it. Vegetarians and vegans, million makeover of the 1901 vintage Electra Peel and Leigh streets below. The menuperhaps surprisingly, are very welcome. House upping the ante considerably. promises great hamburgers such as Inside, amidst 6m high ceilings, elegant three little pigs (roast pork, ham, bacon), Seafood features in dishes such as ornate pillars and a new lift, there’s a busy or soft-shell crab with roast chilli kewpiesmoked mussels and chunks of spanner and often noisy downstairs bar and beer mayonnaise and iceberg lettuce, but offers garden, while the upstairs restaurant Olea, more with main courses that include chilli- marinated pork ribs and slow-braised beef ribs. Good drinks, but there’s also a sister watering hole Maybe Mae downstairs. 15 Peel St, Adelaide. Lunch and dinner daily, continuous service; phone (08) 8231 8535. Top left: Africola restaurant kitchen. Top right: Olea restaurant interior.46 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELTHERE really was a time where it was basil, rocket and mint. There’s a little more includes a schnitzel, lamb cutlets and avirtually impossible to get an authentic lusciousness on the bianco line, with three delicious snapper with baby lettuce heartspizza anywhere in Brisbane. Few and far cheeses, mozzarella, fior de latte and and tartare, also made in-house. Pizzas arebetween were genuine wood fired ovens, gorgonzola, and a spiky blend of artichoke, a little more avant garde but still stay true tothin charry bases and minimalist toppings olives, anchovies and salsa verde. Shop tradition, with margherita featuring fior debut thankfully that has surely changed. 4/88 Creek St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3221 latte and mozzarella, the funghi paired withBeccofino had a new little brother called 3548. taleggio and wood-fired chicken drizzledJulius in South Brisbane in late 2014 with a smoky barbeque sauce. There areand Tartufo in Fortitude Valley has been Across the river at South Bank, Spaghetti five delicious and substantial-soundingrenovated to include a giant pizza oven House has moved from its Boundary St salads - roasted beetroot with kale, quinoa,at the front of the venue manned by location in the heart of the West End to feta and pomegranate is dusted with zatar,a specially trained pizzaiolo to create the tourist and restaurant-laden enclave there’s a smoked chicken and bacon withgenuine Neapolitan creations. of South Bank. It’s less than a kilometre avocado and ranch dressing, a classic but worlds apart - back in West End boho Caesar and some crispy calamari with mint, English imports Tom Sanceau and meets ethnic diversity and there’s a healthy chilli and lime. Five different cuts of beefBonnie Shearston have been opening level of grunge, organic options and hit the grill and are paired with a range ofvenues in and around the city for the past serious coffee haunts. South Bank, on the sauces, including house gravy, much morefour years. Canvas in Woolloongabba was other hand, has a plethora of larger, more of a jus than a gravy, rich and reducedan immediate hit, as was Public and Red commercial venues, many family-friendly to perfection. Stick around for crispyHook, both in the CBD. Then came Coppa and many themed in the current trends. meringues and passionfruit curd servedSpuntino around the corner from Red Hook Wood panelling inside gives a cosy feel with creamy chocolate ice cream or a hotand it’s all about simple, delicious Italian and outside the footpath dining wraps caramel sundae; they’re both well worth thefood, from the nicely shaped pizzettas around the corner block under a canopy of sugar hit and those associated calories.to the meatballs covered in a fine mist leaves. The menu has always been large Designed to appeal to a large demographicof pecorino. Entry via the pretty hedged and it seems to have increased even more. with the indoor/outdoor lines blurred andcourtyard leads to a well stocked bar Traditional sections separate pasta from the decor colourful and contemporary, thiswhere you can sit and eat under the glow risotto, cichetti from carne and contorni, type of venue can often serve these wideof table lamps fixed at intervals along and of course pizza has its own little slice ranging menus that can be all too ordinary.the bar. Stuffed baby squid is deliciously of the menu. Figs wrapped in prosciutto Communal does the opposite - high qualitytender and perfumed with fennel, nicely are covered in a mild gorgonzola sauce - a ingredients prepared with care and servedformed gnocchi is pared with kale and classic combination and this one blends simply and honestly. 266 George St,walnut and a splash of truffle oil, and sweet and savoury with proficiency. Ditto Brisbane; phone (07) 3003 1056.swordfish is pan seared with spinach and the crumbed baccala balls with a picanteradicchio. There are six pizzas - three rosso smear of sauce. Simple pasta dishes of Top & bottom: Spaghetti & meatballs and figsand three bianco. The rosso versions are garlic and chilli, cacio e pepe, pesto all wrapped in prosciutto with gorgonzola fondue frompretty classic, think tomato, bocconcini, feature as do the classics - amatriciana, the Spaghetti House. arrabiata, funghi and marinara, and there’s also a cheesy baked crab cannelloni with a powerful tomato sugo. 164 Grey St, South Bank; Phone (07) 3844 4844. There’s pizza on the menu at Communal Dining as well, but this menu is geared towards a more modern Australian theme, running down the current trend of multiple sections spanning several continents and cultures. “Sharing and starters” includes a cured meat board, spicy buffalo wings, salt and pepper calamari and nachos but it’s the Moreton Bay bugs that appeal - juicy and lemony with house made cocktail sauce in a soft, sweet brioche bun, they slide down as a quick lunch or an after-work snack with one of the craft beers on tap. There’s a burger section, “communal crumbs”, which July/August 2015 W I N E S TAT E 47

hong konggrapevineIVY NGA new trend taking shape in the local Depending on the season, challenge Chinese fusion cuisine. Prawn toast, withculinary scene is the resurgence of yourself with the pungent Durian ice cream, okonomiyaki, kewpie mayonnaise, bulldogSoutheast Asian cuisine and it has delighted or for a taste of the Straits, the Bubur Pulut sauce and shaved cabbage ($HK118/local taste buds with nuances of spice and Hitam (black glutinous rice porridge) or the $A20), DIY rice balls with toasted sesame,sometimes heat. A very popular place for Kuih Dadar (pandan-flavoured omelet filled seaweed and pork floss (disposable glovesStraits delights is Cafe Malacca inside the with coconut and palm sugar) ($HK32/$A5 provided!) ($HK68/$A11), Mom’s “mostlyrenamed Hotel Jen (formerly Traders Hotel, each). Phone +852 2213 6613. cabbage, a little bit of pork” dumplingspart of the Shangri-La Hotel Group) in the with sacha soy dressing ($HK98/$A16),trendy Western District. Not the place for For a centrally located venue with Kimchi fried rice with edamame anda romantic meal, this is a brightly lit room, stylish decor, Mama San serves delicious crispy Chinese sausage ($HK118/$A20)simply furnished and sparsely decorated Southeast Asian cuisine with a modern and Wagyu steak tartare, Yunnan style,with jars of herbs and spices. Start with the twist, on Wyndham St, Central. It is part hot and sour ($HK158/$A26) all reflectlemongrass drink with pandan-flavoured of the Dining Concepts Group that also the chef’s bold and playful flair andjelly to prepare your palate. You can brought Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street genius. Do not miss the traditional roastfeast on an array of popular street food, Kitchen to Hong Kong. The thoughtfully goose ($HK298/$A49 for a half, or act thefrom the refreshing Rojak ($HK62/$A10) designed wine list includes red, white expert and choose between upper anda mixed fruit salad of guava, cucumber and rosé by-the-glass options to go with lower quarters). The veggie dishes areand pineapple dressed with belachan the different combinations of sweet, sour highly recommended: fried cauliflower,(a Southeast-Asian style shrimp paste), and spice in the food. Great starters for brussels sprouts, maple bacon and chillito chicken and beef satays ($HK82-98/ sharing: the chilli harbour prawns with jam ($HK88/$A15) is a favourite. Finish$A14-16), and Penang-style turnip cake deep fried garlic, iceberg lettuce and with a dessert called Breakfast 2.0, with($HK63-88/$A10-15, with prawns). The lemon ($HK188/$A31) and the grilled Horlicks ice cream, cocoa coffee crumbs,Singaporean otak-otak ($HK42/$A7), beef salad with cherry tomatoes, mint, cornflake honey joy, oats, and dried longanmackerel fish paste spiced with turmeric, Thai basil, cucumber and hot and sour ($HK78/$13). Expect to have starters, maingalanghal, lemongrass, shallot and chilli, dressing ($HK118/A20). Save some of the courses, veggies and carbs, all arrivedgrilled inside a banana leaf has an ethereal tongue-tingling tangy tamarind sauce from within 30 minutes. There is a lovely rosélightness lifted by the intense aromatics the sizzling claypot caramelised snapper from La Clape on the concise wine list,and a faint smokiness. Laksa comes in dish with young coconut, black pepper, but cocktails and very cold draught beerstwo versions: the tangy Penang style or green mango and Thai basil ($HK238/ seem to have a bigger draw. Bookings arethe coconut milk-enriched Singaporean $A39), to cut through the richness of the possible for parties of six or more. Servicestyle ($HK88-92/$A15). The other signature succulent suckling pig (Babi guling), with is professional and friendly, and the kitchenMalaysian dish is the Penang Char Koay beautifully crisped skin, served with sambal is in plain sight as you walk in. Only openTeow with rice noodles, dried sausage hijau and sambal matah ($HK288/A48). for dinners, seven days a week. Phoneand prawns, stir-fried with sambal paste Divinely complementary! For a change +852 2881 8901.and chilli paste ($HK89/$A15). For more from chicken curry try the Cambodiansubstantial items, order the famous Hainan duck curry with sweet potatoes, shallots In Hong Kong for the weekend, why notchicken rice ($HK118/$A20) and the richly- and peanuts ($HK198/$A33). Side orders book a table for lunch at Rainbow Seafoodflavoured and juicily tender beef Rendang are generously portioned - the stir-fried Restaurant on Lamma Island? Board the($HK102/$A17). The venue also serves as vegetables could serve as a vegetarian restaurant boat from Central; refreshed bythe hotel’s coffee shop and expect to see main course, and is very tasty! Check any the sea breeze, arrive with an appetite forCaesar salad and burgers on the menu. special off-menu wine offerings from the a fabulous seafood feast of king prawns in knowledgeable sommelier Vincent, who soya sauce, salt and chilli scampi, razor is passionate about his food-wine pairing! clams with black beans and chilli, steamed Phone +852 2881 8901. whole scallops with vermicelli, ginger and garlic, and more. The sweet and sour Another trend taking hold is smart casual pork isn’t bad either! Spend the afternoon dining that does not take bookings. Luckily, walking around the village before heading there is usually a trendy cocktail bar or two back. Phone +852 2982 8100. nearby to help you while away the waiting time. Ho Lee Fook (literally means “good Above right: Suckling pig at Mama San. fortune for your mouth”) in the SoHo district Above left: Cafe Malacca's Char Koay Teow. is best described as ultra-chic Chinese fast dining! Taiwanese celebrity chef Jowett Yu, with experience at Sydney’s Ms G’s and tutelage under Tetsuya, has charmed Hongkongers with his innovative48 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015



winewords R o y alS am C o llinsA spi r ing W inema k e r / 2 0 1 5 S y dne yW ine S c h o la r s h ip r ecipientSKYE MURTAGH 2015 is sure to go down as a very Tell us about your stewardship At the moment you’re complementingmemorable year in the life of Sam Collins. experience at the Macquarie Group your studies by working as a SalesNot only is the 23-year-old South Australian Sydney Royal Wine Show. Assistant at Adelaide’s East End Cellars.on the final leg of his studies in viticulture Do you think the direct customerand oenology at the University of Adelaide, It was an honour to be selected to receive interaction will benefit you as abut he’s still riding the high which came the scholarship and have the opportunity to winemaker down the track?from being named the winner of this year’s participate in the wine show. I was able toprestigious Sydney Royal Wine Scholarship learn about and take part in some judging, Being able to communicate informationin February. In addition to receiving $5000 meet people in the industry and further my in an easy, informative and approachabletowards his tertiary studies, he was knowledge of the Australian wine industry. manner is really important when talking toawarded the chance to steward at the 2015 I’d like to get involved in the wine show people about wine. Knowing what does andMacquarie Group Sydney Royal Wine Show circuit, so to get the chance to start at a doesn’t work when trying to sell a particular- an experience which gave him valuable place like Sydney is a big help for me. It’s product, and also recognising how people’sinsight into the process of wine judging run extremely well and there are lots of tastes are different, and knowing how toand the opportunity to rub shoulders with good people behind it. accommodate that is very important andindustry experts like international judge something that can only be learnt throughJane Parkinson. The future looks bright! Have you had any overseas field experience. The more you can educate experience yet? your customers, the more confidence theyNot coming from a winemaking family, have in trusting your brand and service,what sparked your initial interest in the I was lucky enough to be offered a vintage or trying something new. These closecraft? position with Martin & Anna Arndorfer in relationships are one of the great things the Kamptal region of Austria, north of about East End Cellars and is certainly I’m still not entirely sure what did make Vienna, in 2012. It was just myself and the something that I hope to do with customersme choose winemaking (since I made the winemaker working together in the winery, of my own in the future.choice when I wasn’t even of legal drinking so it was a fantastic learning experience,age) but there were several main criteria. I and allowed me to flesh out a few of my How are you prepped in your studieshad a particular affinity for chemistry and own ideas. Looking to the future, I have my for some of the starker realities of thisFrench language, so I wanted to find a way heart set on Burgundy. profession?to combine these two strengths. I also learnbetter when doing something practical, and Who’s taught you the most about wine Completing a degree in winemakingfind the experience more enjoyable, so I and winemaking so far? equips you with the academic and technicalnever considered a career that would have skills to be able to make the most informedme at a desk all day. I also love the pride I did a lot of the cellar work for Sam Scott, decisions in any situation, with the aim ofyou feel when you present the product of from Scott Winemaking and La Prova, achieving the highest possible quality.your hard work, and having someone enjoy for two years when I started studying. There are vineyards and a winery on site atthat is the ultimate satisfaction. He always placed a lot of importance on the university, so students are able to follow attention to detail, good winery practice all the steps required in wine production. AsCan you recall that first ever sip of wine? and hygiene - and also to have fun! He’s a for the long hours and hard work involved I can’t remember the first wine I ever genuinely great guy who makes delicious over vintage, well that’s something you have wines that are good to drink, and I took all to learn for yourself!tasted, but my first wine memory is of being that I learnt and applied it to all the jobssat on the tasting bench at Rockford in the I’ve had since.Barossa whilst my dad did a tasting! Thefirst time I started really thinking about winewas when I was working my first vintagewith BK Wines in the Adelaide Hills. We’dopen a few bottles during dinner everynight and I began to appreciate varietaland stylistic differences in wine.Are you a lone wolf among your peerswhen it comes to your interest in wine? I’m certainly not the norm when it comesto young people appreciating wine, but Ido think people are becoming interestedearlier. New, boutique wine producers andsmall, quality focused bars have reallymade wine appeal to younger people.50 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2015