Winestate Magazine No 1 May 1978

MAY 1978 80° Wines in restaurants what to choose..___ ____' . . ..._ ., Wolf Blass--- - __i---- ----. . ,._. ............ .:.. ,. speaks out How to ----....._--=:_ taste wines · DIE GALLERIE, TANUNDA. Lenman, Connell Photography

QUALITY· CONSISTENCY· CHARACTER ... three reasons for enjoymentI 1975 INDIVIDUAL VINEYARD ~-~~nut SHOW AWARD~ This remarkable premium product SHIRAZ 'tr~~~Announcing referred to 11:s the Grey Label has GOLD MEDAL ,::-...ss,a limited established irsetf since the first re-new release lease in 1967 as a prestige prii.e- ROYAL PERTH 1975in the famous winning win~.grey label GOLD MEDAL C...A<- s8senes. Distinction •>f this label is by win- ning the Go .d Star Award i:t 1974 NATION.4L WINE SHOW for the best label designed in Aus- tralia. Likewise: the same brand CANBERRA 1975 under this l:abel won the first and only Expovin World Wine Show GOLD MEDAL cuss 11 Trophy in Melbourne 1976 for Aus- ROYAL BRISBANE 1976 tralia. This premium wi11e is by selection of PRODUCE Of AUSTRALIA the best grapes grown in the deep BILYARA VINEYARDS, BAROSSA VALLEY, S.A. rich silt soil ,)f the area. The distinct 150ml Al.avour is enhanced through matura- tion in French Nevers Oak 60% and the fim1 finish on lhe palate indicates the tre1Umeut of American Oak. This wine will develop inlo a clas- skal Dry R('() with further mat- \\"~ ~<_,-uration. ~ KEL LEIMEISTTR ~'\\ \ ( Dipl.1 DISTRIBUTED IN ALL STATES OF AUSTRALIA

ContentsWolf Blass2Winesta te interviews the mo stdyna mic winemaker in Austra lia .New Releases 7 Number 1, May 1978Cuttings 10 Winestate is a state of mind. To. taste wine, to smell it , to look a t it, to feel it, is toThe Barossa be in the wine state, to be in th e good life of good wine, good food, good friends andValley good fun. This is our philosophy.A feel of the Barossa wine reg ion as Th e prim ary concern of this new magazine is you a nd what you drink. We do not care for pomposities, for snobbishness. We may talk about the very greatest of13you've never seen it before . . ... great Australian wines and from the connoisseur's point of view; but we will also talk just as much, no, much more, about the \"pop\" wines, the commercial wines,Leo During that millions of people enjoy. For in wine, in every wine , there is people, lovely , ugl y, funn y, sad, practical, drea ming , hu ngry , thirsty people.20Our first wine ry of the month .. Wines can never be bette r than the people tha t make them. So we will repor t onThe Great Restaurant these people. And if we must sometimes criticise it will be for you, the wine drinker.Wine ReviewThe expe rt s look at your favo uriterestau ra nt wines. See how they28rated... . .. •••••••·Wine Tastings Winestate a im s for good, reada ble writi ng, wit h facts a nd opinions to inform, to gu ide and to entertain . Some of our writers have the fresh bloom of a riesling grapeA step by step se ries on how you on their cheeks, some have the m aturity of a gra nd old po rt. T hey have a lot to write about, as on ly the surface has been scratched in feeding the rema rk ab le4 1too can beco me a wine taster and flowering of popular interest in wines of the last decade . Winestate will help . And when it comes to tasting, to working out what is good and what is liked, it isenjoy do in g it .. estimated that one would have to taste seven wines each d ay of th e year to keep up with all the relea ses in the current vi ntage of Australia n wines. Again , WinestateCooking with wine will help.Peter Wall is one of th e very few Our judging team, Brian Barry, Peter Lehma nn and Bob H esketh, are tit ans of the industry. With their experience a nd integrity they pull no punches in judging to thepeople who rea ll y knows cooking strictest and most consistent standa rds . For example, in this month 's review of43wi th wine .. popular restaurant wines, some fancy-looking products th a t people like to rave . ... about just don't make the grade while some of the com mon , popular wines a re up there near the top. It might be one in the eye for the wine snob but th at' s the way itCheese is. At times the judges may seem highly technical , but that's how gold medals are won and tha t is how the abso lu te quality of wines m ust be assessed - although , it47David Sm ith ta lks about the shou ld be stressed that they are not reviewing you r palate . Fortunately winemakers know that their art must be as broad as humanity itself..cheeses in hi s lifeCellaringJim Smi th, a wine merchant kn ows49all about storage and cellaringwines - and he' ll tell yo u about 11.BurgundyBob Hesketh, one of our wine52experts· ta lks about the year hespent in the French vi neya rds ....Sydne y Wine S ho w 54 We will cover every wine region in Australia, we will inform about wines, both in the making and the tasting, we wi llResults analyse trends, we will investigate aids to wine service and · drinking, we will report a ll t he joys and sorrows, the fa iling an dREPRESENTATI VES: the successes of Australian wi nes. And we will not be too chauvinistic to peek occasionally at other countries.Victoria : Lola U n d erwo od & Assoc. Wine, drunk from a billy-can by the Diamantina or from lead . ·Pty. Ltd., 10 B eaconsfie ld P de. ,Port Melbourne, Vic., 3 2 07. Postal crysta l at Government House, invariably goes with other f ~-address: Box 201 , PO Bay St., Port . ;.__possible to give you practical and inspiring recipes.Melbourne. Phone /03) 645 10 1 1. foods . So we will look a t cooking, a t dining out, at associated !:::;.N . S . W .: Ross McCaule y, 18 4 drinks and at special foods lik e cheeses, trying as often as ,;11.Sussex St., Sydne y. Postal address: ::J.:\t.Box 300, GPO, Sydne y. P h one /0 2)29 3937. .:...\ . -~. ~ PUBLISHED B Y:PETER SIMIC WIN E But at the heart a nd sou l, a lways there is wi ne. That is the < ;, .. PET;R SIMICPROMOTIONS, 2 1 IRWIN ST., Winestate, and you are now in it. ,\ MANAGING EDITORWOOD VILLE WEST, SA, 5011 .. PHONE 4 5 62 31.

In 1960 a young German winemaker namedWolfgang Blass came to Australia for a three-year contract with Kaiser Stohl. He thenworked with Tolley, Scott and Tolley's tablewine venture and set up his own BilyaraWinery north of Nuriootpa. Aremarkable string of medals and recordsflowed and now the 44-year-old dynamoof the Barossa is one of the best-knownnames in Australian winemaking. In thispenetrating interview with Peter Simic hetalks freely of life and wine.. Winestate interviewWolf Blass, you are noted for yourinterest in wine, women and song -and racehorses. Is there a priority?It has to be a big question mark. Ithink I give away singing and thepriority of the other three just. \"! depends on the mood I'm in. How do these interests affect yourwine?They're added. If you enjoy whatyou are doing you have a free andopen mentality. Also, I'm a veryastute businessman. I wouldn'tartificially put on a show - say, thatI enjoy women's company, going out- but I am using it as a gimmick.I hate anyone to talk to me aboutwine in my spare time. I think I'vedone enough when I've finished the day. I enjoy drinkirig wine. I enjoy promotion, the advertising. They' rt· In this world the absolute question the company of good people, if the things that keep you on the go all is no longer just the product itself, they're on the level. But when you get the time. it' s getting it to the public. In people asking absolutely bloody Australia we know nothing about boring things - like why is this cork So your total personality is marketing . Some of the big leaking; tell me this and that - I'm important in selling your wine? m a rket ing oganisations Ii ke not interested. As for sport, it has to Orlando , Heinz and probab ly be volatile, horse racing. It's my It is. It is selling my winemaking character. It distracts me. And I ability. I'm a good sales bloke and Lindemans are astute enough to enjoy reading. Things that are I'm more and more entrenched now prove the point - the need fo r different; in sales. And although I make the quality and marketing at the same final decisions I've got a good staff. time. It's not the winemaking that Johnny Glaetzer is a top-class makes me tired, it's the selling, the winemaker. As a winemaker you fi rst came to prominence making champagnes. 2-WINESTATE, MAY, 1978T

Now you are established in your own · years now that we are right. We take we're going to have to buy a vineyard note of criticism but we're going to soon.winery, do you expect to return to keep doing what we're doing. Lindemans has been buying inchampagne making? When you began your own business 85% of its wines and only started I don't think we'll be making crushing its own over the last couple you were just a blender, weren't you? of years . It's never been questionedchampagne here but we are soon and they're the best marketinggoing to be blending with another Buying wines from other companiescompany. It will be our cuvee and people in Australia.they'll make it for us . and blending them? The art of winemaking is the No. I have always crushed some After my contract with Kaiser technique of blending. That's all. IfStuhl expired I was not allowed to grapes. But I don't need a bloody you can't put it together, forgetmake champagne for three years or I crusher. I can use other people's about winemaking.could have knocked them out of facilities, like Jim Barry's at St.business. So I went back into Clare Winery and Bernkastel. Just You have blended many trophy-winemaking. because I haven't got a crusher here winning wines. Did you specifically Making red wine was new to me at Bilyara, people think I don't look beforehand at the type of winesand the knowledge was forced on me. crush. You can't have everything atAnd I seem to have adopted, once and we' re going to get a winning those trofhies and make yourunknowingly, the same technique as crushing system in here eventually. wine accordingly.Max Schubert [maker of Penfolds'Granges - see next month's But you do buy wines from other I feel our style has not i;hangedWinestate] . since I first made dry reds in 1964 companies for blending? after leaving Kaiser Stuhl. It took It is surprising to find a German Of course. It gives me a choice and four or five years for the judges tomaking big heavy reds. realise the bloody wine I made and I'm going to maintain that. since then I've pulled them along. They're not big. My reds are tiot What proportions are crushed And now, of course, they know myheavy at all. The reference to Max style. Peter Lehmann can nearly pickSchubert meant maturation of oak yourself and bought from others? it out of 150 masked wines. I'mand fruit. A \"big\" dry red is not I'm nearly self sufficient with reds, handicapped.elegant and our wines are veryelegant, easy to drink while young buying only about 15% But with But that could be an advantage?and mature when they get older. whites, we have had the greatest hit No, I'm going to get crucified that any company has experienced. because they think it's mine. a A big wine is one with plenty of We're making beautiful blends and selling them. There's been such apressings, plenty of thickness and no tremendous increase in sales thatbalance. The big wines are those ofPeter Lehmann (Saltram) in the old /days, wines you could stand ateaspoon in. And Darry Osborn in Cartoon by Norm M41chell ; thanks to the Adelaide \"News\".the Southern Vales, and Kay Bros. WINESTATE, MAY, 1978- 3 Our success has been to makedelicate wines but with heavy oakpenetration. Oak and fruit, that'swhere Max Schubert made hissuccess with Grange Hermitage. How do you get your effect of ripefruit and oak? From using a high proportion ofLanghorne Creek area fruit and fastmaturation in small containers. Itmoves along, gaining tannin from theoak. It is a very expensive operationusing so many small containers but itmakes the wine round and firm. This is why we initially sold ourwines at high prices. And we aregoing to maintain this expensiveoperation. Do you think your prices arejustified? Oh yes. People do criticise but'things are changing. Othercompanies are coming up to ourprice structure and we haven'tincreased by the same percentage. In terms of what we are making,no company in Australia carries asmuch oak as we do. We've got60,000 to 70,000 gallons sitting insmall wood and when you considerthat each container costs up to $150 Idon't need to tell you what we'reinvesting . Our quality is justified. We'veproved the point for ten or twelve

different style which they are trying Someone has to challenge this. Harder and harder. These days The industry is just behind, tryin$ to yo u really have to work hard to get ato curb. They are already influenced take me off. They won't let me Just gold medal. Also we now have judgesin the brain system. sit there. There are 250 competitors from within the industry whereas a ll wanting the same results. We've Why would they try and knock the had a good run this year, like last before they were outsiders. Nowwine if they think it's yours. Don't year, but dropped from 77% of winning entries to 70%. we've got professional winemakers Ithey like you? I'm under scrutiny. They've liked If your styles are consistent, are . think we're going to have more you saying that judges alter their uniformity.it for a decade but you can't keep definition of wine styles from time togoing all the time. time? On the subject of standards, you have recently returned from a th.ree- When the Grange wines first came Beca use of the different people month trip to Europe. How does ouron the market nobody liked them. involved in different wine shows in industry compare with that of, say,Then they won all the awards. Then Australia you're goin~ to get Germany?they dropped out again. Is this the different results. It's like in a horsecase with your wines? race. A horse may win today and I was lecturi ng at an oenology you're going to put him in the same university and had an Apex Club Look at the record. I've been a bloomin' race tomorrow, slightly selection of ten gold-medaltrendsetter in this industry. And look different track , a nd the thing is going Australian wines which were beingat the percentage of gold medals to lose. compared with German wines ofwe've won in young classes. comparable character. The Germans The ultimate would be to have one were surp rised -first that Australia nation al wine show in Australia, makes wines at all, let alone the type under the generalship of all the of qual ity · wine we produce, consideri ng we are in the southern agricultural societies. But I don't hemisphere. And of course it is more think we' re going to get it. The difficult here because we have to industry is sick and tired of these counter the environment of heat. bloomin' shows. There are far too m a n y. I don't think we will ever have the sa me tlavor as the German whites But the judges under the new but we shouldn't compare them . chairmanship of Brian Barry, they're They are making the best German trying to eliminate a high percentage wines a nd we are making the best of gold medals which had been Australia n wines . Each country is successfu l in 1977. making wines to the best of its ability To make it harder? and suitable to its climate and conditions.Here in the heart of the city, just a short stroll from Adelaide's famous Rundle Mellyou will find the Coslvsrd Restaurant with special selection of old vintage wines etreasonable prices. The cuisine is superb end the service special. You m ust dine heresoon.OPEN LUNCH: Noon-3 p.m. DINNER: (Mon.-Fri.) SUPPER: 6 p.m.-10 p.m. (7 nights a week) 10 p.m.-Midnight (Fri. and Sat.) 11 A HINDMARSH SQ., PHONE ADELAIDE 223 6400 (Just behind Rundle Mall)4-WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

The real impact we made uvta including Chile, Argentina and once desert e your labels as haYing athere was with Australia's dry reds. South Africa. We are the leader andWe are sitting in between the second it is a pitty that, collectively as an \"Come All Ye Faithful\" character.and third growths in quality and industry, we don't do somethingdefinitely surpassing the French Who designed them?burgundies. They were real eye- about it on an export basis. Three of us. Me, Neil Thamke I don't think it will be doneopeners to the French. who is a friend, a local draughtsman Could we export our wines to because the industry is not up to and a brilliant bloke, and Whit ·date. I'm a newcomer but it seems Morrow who is a very goodEurope? the industry was run by three commercial artist. When we brought I don't think so, under our present companies in the old days. Now, out the first labels in 1967 I showed it with turmoil in the industry's to Len Evans and he made thatstructure. It's not that we are too financial structures, companies gomg statement. I'm sorry for him: in 1974expensive. We must exercise our backwards, others being taken over, it won the packa~ing award for the we have to stick together. The gap is best label design m Australia.energy in the Asian countriesinitially to learn marketing expertise. too wide. Then we brought out a newOur packaging is not up to scratch. Do you see some wine companies in concept, the Eagle hawk label.We're not up to scratch on consumerprotection laws. And we're not financial difficulty? Where did this come from?known. We have nobody in Europe Oh yes, yes. We're seeing it It is the translation of Bilyara.and I can't see anyone who is going When I found that out I said thatto promote our wmes. continuously and it is because of sounds all right. The eagle came out their lack of marketing knowledge. I in 1973 as a symbol, as a trade mark. To the Europeans we are white think the bi$ ones are going to get Would you prefer the winery to beAsians. We mustn't fool ourselves. stronger but it's not just a question ofThey are so busy with their Common size: it is the most dynamic and known as Wolf Blass Wines ratherMarket, politically and progressive companies that will than Bilyara?economically. survive. Oh yes. Bilyara doesn' t mean a When you came to Australia There is the problem of 45,000 cracker. Nobody would know what itinitially it was with experience in means. There's nothing wrong with · tonnes of black grapes being left on the name Wolf Blass. Penfolds hadEurope, mainly Germany. What was to be used as a name once, and the Yines because not so much red Hardys. If the company's going to bethe difference you saw? wine is wanted. What is going to taken over or if I die, the name is I thought I knew how to make going to remain to Doomsday. happen?wines. I had made wine overseas and They're going to be left there. I Wolf Blass, don't some people findspecialised in making champagneand thought I was highly qualified on don't think anyone is putting in extra this attitude a bit hard to take?the theoretical side. storage because we can't sell the dry Oh yes. I'm a complete extrovert. reds although there has been a big But when I came here I found I conversion of black grapes into white I've turned the whole bloomin' place has a hell of a lot to learn because of wines and sparklings. The co- upside down and I've done it mythe temperatures. European operatives are cutting down and way.oenologists would have big problems they're the ones who have alwaysmaking wines in the southernhemisphere; at any stage the come to the rescue.Australian winemaker can teach The first loss is the cheapest one.them something. We should learn this from Ken Is this because of the bacterial - Smith [now general manager ofproblems associated with making Kaiser Stuhl] who used to be in the food industry. He said: \"Look boys,wine under hot conditions? we've been doing this in the citrus Yes. Under these adverse industry for a long time. We just had to leave things hanging.\"conditions the winemaker has to Winemakers think they can't justcounteract things technically and leave the grapes to rot on the vines, that it's just not done. But I can't seemechanically whereas in Europe anything else.nature takes its course. We are far inadvance technology-wise. You spoke earlier on about the And in the southern hemisphere need for better packaging. Len EYanswe are the best wine-making country,FRIDAY and SATUPn,\ V NIGHTS - a la rartP mPnn - rPrl :rn,t whitP SMORGASBORDwines - ales. SUNDAY - a la carte menu. LUNCH 12 noon-3 p.m. (Mon.- Fri.) DINNER 6 p.m.-10 p.m. (Mon.-Sat.) w ·INESTATE, MAY, 1978- 5 -I-

••saitram wines, made by that grand master of theBarossa, Mr. Peter Lehmann, are known by everyonewho takes table wines seriously.~~ · \"His Rhine Rieslings are famous, grown from grapes on the fine old Saltram vineyards and despite the alleged uniformity of Barossa seasons, these wines certainly show vintage changes from year to year.-.4' ''I think this wine (Saltram 73/88 Claret) is quite outstanding and at around $2.70 is great value. For the perfectionist another year or so in the bottle would round it right off, but it is a tremendous wine to drink now, especially with a generous breathing time. It is a red worth rushing.-.-. \"Saltram's Mamre Brook dry red, 70% Cabernet, 30% Shiraz, is one of the country's great reds. For the quality comer of your cellar, this is a required wine (about $5.70)~ Nat ion al Times I8. 7. 77 Saltram Mamre Brook Cabernet Shiraz; 73/88 Claret; Rhine Riesling; White Burgundy. Perhaps a little harder to find than most wines, but well worth the effort. Saltram: the best of Barossa.6 -WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

New releasesKarrawirra been discreetly hidden amongst someSportsmen of the world unite. Karra- fairly flowery and attractive artworkwirra wines of the Barossa has on the label. Obviously areleased a seven bottle collection of compromise between youthfulvintage ports. enthusiasm and tradition. Watch for our experts' review of the Norman's Each features a different well- chenin blanc in next month's whiteknown sporting identity and you varietal wine tasting.can't deny Ian Chappell, Ron SettlementBarassi and Artie Beetson are wellknown . It is not quite clear what A very tiny new winery in thethey've got to do with the wines southern districts of South Australiainside, but if the promotion results in is Vince Berlingieri's Settlement Wines . With a label that, the imagea greater consumption of wine is certainly one of an olde worldeamongst sports people - and maybe winery . We think you will be hearingeven a few non-wine drinkers - then a lot more about Vince's wines in thewe're all for it. future, especially as he is starting to get a bit of a reputation as the \"Wolf These athletic fortifieds are being Blass\" of the south, a nickname hereleased throughout Australia during does nothing to deny. If he ends upMay for about $4.25 each. being half as dynamic, you'll beAttractively packaged, the faces of hearing from him.the heroes beam down from everybottle. Sportslovers and erstwhile We were particularly impressedstamp collectors will all be with his old liqueur tawny J?Ort. Aimpressed. well-made port with good spirit and flavor it lack s the cloying heaviness There is more about the wines inthe Karrawirra article (page 20). of some and at the same time it has the desirable dry finish.One thing we are a bit disappointedin. Apart from the Ian Chappell wine His 1977 spaetlese rhine riesling is(he always was a bit different), the a good commercially drinkable wine,others are the same, namely 1976 soft a nd full flavored if lacking thevintage. It might have been more elegance of a premium spaetlese. Itappropriate for each sportsman to be has the characteristics of a warmrepresented by a different vintage area sweet white. Nevertheless underyear. Incidentally the Ian Chappell the circumstances it is well made. Mildaravintage port was a 1975 vintage. Another relatively exotic wine is theOwzzat! cabernet rose. Competing with theNorman'sNorman's Wines of Angle Vale has Tollana and Douglas a Tolleyjust released a couple of new varietal cabernet rose is the new release 1977wines. Varietals are becoming Mildara Coonawarra rose at aboutpopular now, aren't they? Both these, $2 .25 retail. The company'sa 1977 chenin blanc and a 1975 pinot managing director, Richardnoir, are interesting. Haselgrove, describes the wine as a The old fashioned trade mark has

,I SourH..E~ l:iIES Co-operative Winery Ltd.~ J~, ~ ~ 6 _. ,,:•; ~- . P.O. B~x .196 , McLaren Vale, S.A. 5 17 1~ ~~-·~' j_a~£_,?, £l·- , i~; ~~~:,. - The ongloal \" \" ' \" wece '\"'\" m 1896 to p,ocess sm plos g,apes .'i ,. t< grown In the McLaren Vale distri ct, and ceased to be a processing ~ ' f winery following 1962 vintage. Because of grape surpluses In the mid 1960's, Southern Vales Co-operative Wlnery Limited was form ed In 1965 by 185 grape growers In Southern Vales and Langhorne Creek areas, wh o pur- chased the cellars then owned by Penfold Wines. Today the Co-operative vintages on average in excess of 5,000 tonnes of Non-irrigated grapes producing top qual ity whites, spark- ling and fortified wines, but is spec ially renowned for its reds . Brandy Is distilled at its wholly owned Horndale Distillery which nestles In the foothills at Happy Valley, just south of Adelaide. - HORNDALE DISTILLERY Pty. Ltd. P.O., O'Halloran Hill , S.A. 5 158 Building was begun in 1896 by the Horn Bros., and the distillery had a succession of owners unt il 1968 when It was pu rchased by the Co-operative from Gilbeys. The purchase gave added flexi bility to wine making operat ions/ with having d istillation abi lity and substan ti al add itional mat uration storage facilit ies . from Somewhere old . . . Something GoodResults from the 1976 and 1977 Wine Shows tell the story 6 TROPHIES FOR DRY REDS 21 GOLD MEDAL A WARDS RANGING OVER RHINE RIESLING. WHITE BURGUNDY. ROSE, DRY REDS. SWEET REDS LIKE TO BE KEPT TOPPED UP ON NEWS AND GOOD OFFERSTEAR OFF AND POST TO: SourH..E~ l:iIES Co-operative Winery Ltd,MR./MRS./MISS . .. . . ..... . .. . .. . .. . . . . . . . P.0. Box 196, McLaren Vale, S.A. 51 71ADDRESS . . . . ....... . . . . . . . .. .... ... . . . . Yes! Please add me t-o your mailing list for:STATE . . . . . .. . . . . . . . POSTCODE ... .. . . .. . • News of releases and wine show results. • Label samples and winemaker's comments of all new releases. All special offers. • For packaged wines and spirits. • For limited release of top quality wines in buik'X:.. WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

New Releases continued Some muscat in the wine added to we are seeing more under its own the fruitiness, although the overall company flag.classic rose variety. \"It is of a paler, impression was a semi dry wine.truer, pink colour than previ<?us Depicting the old paddle steamersvintages and being a fragrant wm_e Very strange. that used to travel between the riverwith immense cabernet character, 1t By this stage our taster was towns the Riverboat series is a fittinghas a more aggressive palate than the1976 vintage,\" he says. beginning to get worried. He ~ad tribute to our pioneers and a visions of Fu Man-chu appeanng reminder. At the same time the\"Chinese\" winesLast month one of our writers was over his shoulder at any moment. labels are colourful enough to suitout dining and wining at a Chinese Chew, man, chew! the image of a commercial wine.restaurant. Three wines with Hoffman'sincredible Chinese names were on Hoffman's recently released it The range includes a light redthe wine list as a separate category so magnificent 45-year-old liquer tawny (meant to be chilled), a rose, rieslingour brave reviewer had a go. port. Having achieved a record price and a moselle wine. They are all of at a Barossa auction ($550 a bottle), good commercial quality, perhaps Called Wan Fu (from France), the winery price is a steal for the only lacking a bit more fruit to makeSeeya Chew (from Merrivale Wines) average millionaire. At $330. (cellar them very good wines. The rose andand Swang See Chew (from prices) you expect a lot of wme. moselle will have popular appeal.Winetasters Wines) they provedquite a mouthful. As you can see Is any wine worth that much?from their origins they're not Well were not sure, we've never hadgenuine Chinese rice wines or that ~uch money to worry about it.anything remotely similar. One thing is certain: whoever buys a bottle is getting a meal in every glass. The taster's opinion: The bottle of When we tasted a glass we wereWan Fu was awful. Having a brown knocked over by it power. Incrediblycolour and badly oxidiseC,, both on sweet and luscious, it has beenthe nose and palate, it could not be balanced by wood storage sincerecommended. It may well have been 1933 . It's a bit like swimming injust that bottle, but the maker's molasses. For those who like to comerecommendations to serve the wine up for air occasionally, the blendedvery cold makes us wonder. V27 Old Tawny (with 25% of the 1933 wine plus selected other The Seeya Chew was also brown vintages) is a more drinkable fineand oxidised, although better than alternative.the first. Its sweet, full and ripe Renmanoflavor might go well wit h anextremely hot curry. The Renmano Riverboat range is an impressive addition to one of The best of the three was the Australia's largest wine producingSwang See Chew. It was an unusual companies. Years ago the companywine with a fullness of flavor and sold much of its wine as blendingyet a highly unbalanced acid finish. material to other companies, Now, CHARLIE CHAN RESTAURANT • HONOURABLE CHINESE FOOD & SEAVKE • FULLY LICENSED • CHINESE BANQUETS • ALSO QUICK TAKE AWAY MEALS152 GOOD\/\00D RD., GOODV\000 PPh: 272 3380 WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978 -9

CuttingsNotes on the news, clues and views.Best of the Barossa Foods and wines were plentiful Tag, you•r·e it! with 25 wineries and 25 eating houses\"Congratulations to Gramp displaying their wares. Food was 75c Karrawirra Wines Ltd. has come up with an interesting marketing idea. It(Orlando) for an absolutely a serve and wine 25c a glass, with is a small information tag attached tickets. We thought it was a good to the capsule at the top of a wineoutstanding performance ... This is bottle. idea that each food stall specialisedindicative of the P.erformance we are in one dish. The idea is that when you lay theproud of in the valey.\" So said Philip bottle down in storage the little tag Being the first major food and tells you what the wine is.John, chairman of the recent Barossa wine festival and given the enormous crowd, there were the inevitable Another use is at a restaurantWine Show. With the results letters to the editors of local when you find a wine you really like. Instead of pinching the empty bottleOrlando achieved, it's not surprising. newspapers about flies and queues or laboriously jotting down the and pnces. The next one will be details, just remove the tag with allIn fact Orlando won 10 or the 14 better. the maker's information on it. Clare Valley Wine Festivaltrophies. The greatest interest to This year' s annual Clare Valley Our evaluation? We like the idea Easter Wine Festival got off to a even if the extra cost may notthose watching as the awards were flying start. A special train service compensate for useage. called the \"Clare Festival Flyer\" waspreseqted was whether Orlando organised between Adelaide and Clare for the festivities .would run out of different people to Included in the trip were free tableaccept them. wines and a commemorative port from Rick Robertson's self-namedFood and Wine Frolic Chateau \"Lysaght\" winery. A great idea for those who like to drink butAdelaide's first Food and Wine not drive.Frolic was held on March 13 as part With all these activities one alm ost forgot the wineries. They had theirof the Festival of Arts. With its One hump or two? normal cellar door tasting. (One day Now we've heard everything - aidyllic setting in the West Parklands someone will think of something different to do at a winery during camel tour through the southernit was a spectacular success. festival time).We' re not sure whether it was d istricts wine region of Southsuccessful because of the Life Be In Australia.It people (who, we believe, were a bit It really is happening. Rex Ellis aa safari tour operator, is takin~reluctant to be involved in a food andwine do), or the Festival of Arts holiday from his usual sorties mtoorganisers, or maybe even the Jaguar the \"dead centre.\"Car Club (which had arranged a So until the northern season openspicnic meeting at the same park). again, Rex is making a bit on the sideWhatever, the result was between by arranging camel tours through the30-50,000 people having fun and vineyards. For your interest, thefrolicking here , there and camels names' are Fahannie, Ghandieverywhere. · · and Khartoum. .•. ': f i o f~'n\;;,'.'k'..'·-C--,>-,'•-,•-'-,'.';-•:r--. :.-•=-- ~~ • - ~~,,__ MRO-froSmSAifs~w,~i:..;~;~~.~~ ~··~~ \"Gentlemen, don't lie disappointed If she has to sliip a fea, .•. she does haue other appointments today!\" Memories of the Queen's visit ... by Norm Mitchell : thanks to the Adelaide \" News.\"10 -WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

For those s ecial occasions..~Kais rStuhlG ldRibbonSpaetlese 1• e RieslingSpecial occasions deserve Delicate. Subtle. Golden.special wines - and here's For those special occasions,why this one is well worth it's the perfect choice.your attention. IAt selected vineyards, thebest-quality Rhine Rieslinggrapes were allowed to ma-ture longer than usual('Spaetlese' means 'late-picked' ). As a result, thiswine has a full aromaticbouquet and a fruitier taste,but with a clean dry finish -the type always in demandfro~ the world's wine con-noisseurs.Ribbon Wines are KaiserStuhl's finest wines, andtherefore, only limited quan-tities are available. So, ifyou should see a bottle ortwo, purchase while you can- and be amply rewarded!ai5erjtuijSo good to-share \\:>: ;:........(' l ,.::-· WINEST ATE, MAY, 1978-11

Warning. This Riesling should not be shared by more than two. Arawatta is a true vintage riesling. It has a fruity personality, and just like any association between two people, this personality needs a little time for the chance to express itself. Two people do that for themselves and they can do it for Arawatta. You need to get to know it and then you'll enjoy it more. The next time you're buying or ordering white for two, ask for Seppelt Arawatta Riesling: and for heaven's sake, take your time.SEPPELTARAWAITA RIESLING A549 12-WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

a..,

Barossa A 12-page feature on what it is, or you'll storm the liquor stores tomorrow and the Barossa Valley, there would be a complete sellout throughout Australia.yvalley Australia's most famous wine Oh, yes, the Barossa. It is the best known tourist wine region in Australia, with an enormous range of wineries, producing region. food and atmosphere. First, Winestate Did someone mention food? I can't help thinking of aeditor Peter Simic records, albeit hazily, his wine I once reviewed at a Barossa winery. It really smelt of dill pickles. Having just passed a farmyard advertisingimpressions of his beloved valley; we look at home-made dill pickles I was seriously beginning to wonder if 1',d had too much of that famous Barossathree of the small \"personality\" wineries; and afternoon sun.examine in depth one of the bigger boys, Leo This worried me for a while and eventually IBuring. Then there's a review of a major Barossa approached one of our famous wine reviewers, Peterrestaurant, a complete map and details of dining, Lehmann, for an answer. \"Yes, my son,\" he said in a deep knowledgeable tone. \"There is a dill pickleaccommodation and, of course, all the wineries. character in the small of some wines, and it is indicative of bad winemaking.\" Having been thus satisfied IAnd watch out for that afternoon Barossa sun. obediently toddled off. I couldn't help wondering, though, whether Peter had been past the same farmyard.There was this new wine magazine, you see, and my co- Incidentally, talking about Peter Lehmann, Iworkers· sprung on me the fact that some readers might remember reading somewhere that he once took a partyneed an introduction to the Barossa Valley. It was the of people to the Barossa heights, Steingarten I think, andunanimous vote of all that as editor I should do it. Before they all had a German Bauern (farmers) breakfast of sausages and rough Barossa bread.I had time to explain my side of the story they had gonehome. Must be some sort of initiation ceremony. One j'ournalist left this parting shot: \"When you're in a And someone went to lunch at his place the other day, and it lasted 23 hours. That's the Barossa. And peoplesituation like this, find a nice bottle of local wine and sit there dance on tables and sing German songs.down . Oh! and don 't for~et to write.\" Let's start from the beginning again. You drive out of \"How do you do that, ' I said. Adelaide to Gawler. (Incidentally don't take much notice of directions in this magazine - I'm the world's worst The problem is that I have been to the Barossa navigator. Just ask the way. Barossa people won't eatcountless times and I know I've enjoyed myself. It's just you).that I usua lly can't remember much about the trips. It's After Gawler the road begins to wind through majesticnot the booze, you understand; it's just the sleepy dry, gum bordered country and lots of cow crossings.afternoon sun on the way back to Adelaide. That's mystory and I'm sticking to it. So, in the words of the Barossa Anthem, \"Ein Prosit.\"And, yes, it is a lovely wine thanks. But I won ' t tell you VARIETAL SELECTIONGEWURZTRAMINER RHINE RIESLING Award winning wines for tasting and purchase 7 days a week, 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. FIRST RELEASE Bernkastel is an historic old winery, 1975 PINOT NOIR hosted by warm hearted wine lovers 1977 CHENIN BLANC who lciok forward to meeting you and telling you all about wine. Hot chicken lunches served between noon and 2.00 p.m. with salads, wine, German cake and coffee, all for $3 .50 every Saturday, Sunday, and Public Holiday. Book ahead ,to avoid disappointment by phoning (085) 632595. . .... ADELAIDE IV NU RIOOTPA ANGASTONA. NORMAN & SONS = - o - . _ o -IERNkASTEl \IWINERY...... f fI ---\"': 183 HOLBROOKS ROAD. wE1NTAl 0,...DI! WtlNSlfl.ASSg HOTH MOHL UNDERDALE, S.A. TANUNDA PH. 43 7011 CS214814 -WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

Then all of a sudden you come across what I think is The most grandiose building in the Barossa belongs to Kaiser Stuhl. On the main road between Tanunda andprobably the best view in the Barossa. Nuriootpa, it stands out like a H ollywood version of a French king's winter palace. Love it or hate it,Jou can'tLooking down from the Barossa Motel just before ignore it. That building alone has probably sol millions of bottles for the Kaiser . But, I wish they'd take thatLyndoch you see the Barossa ranges with all their computerised accounting machine o ut of the ta~ting area - it's far too cold and calculating.splendor. The smokey brown, blue hills make you feel Leo Buring is one of my favo rites . Although owned byyou have just fallen into a magnificent watercolor the Lindemans/Philip Morris combination, it has had the good sense to keep the cellar door area and thepainting. You see acres of vines, like medieval armies, original winery human. In other words, the ex pansion is discretely hidden behind the old chateau . Winelovers likeand many other crops which are a reminder that the to think that each bottle of wine is lovinglY. and individually poured by the winemaker (and his family), toBarossa is not only wines. the muffled tune of a German brass band in the distance - even though deep down we know it isn't true .The motel, owned by the Thumms ofChateau Yaldara I' ve just had a marvellous thought. Wouldn' t it be afame is worth an overnight stay just to see the view when grand·gesture for Lindemans/ Philip Morris to complete the old chateau spires as Leo Buring had originallyyou open the curtains in the morning. envisaged it. What about it , Li n & Phil?A word of warning: don't think that fridge stocked Yalumba is the last of the specials, for good reasons.with those magnificent champagnes and bubblies is on The beautiful old clock tower winery is an original. Built in the late 1880s, this ancient monument is a lovely ,the house or you'll have a hernia when you see the bill in legacy of long gone days. Like Americans we thirst for any proof that we have a tradition and a past in what isthe morning. They don't build those magnificent historically a very young country. Winery monuments like this one help to quench that thirst.chateaus by giving it away . And Yalumba sets you on the right track to return aIf you can, visit Chateau Yaldara nearby. It's probably different way to Adelaide after the tour, (preferably staying overnight in the Barossa to get the most va lue).the closest to a French chateau we have in Australia. I The return trip has to be back through the Barossaonly wish they would change the name. ranges , but it is not recommended for those in a hurry . The round trip, Adelaide and back, is more than 200Going back to Lyndoch you pass Karlsberg winery, kilometres, but seems like thousands.Australia's answer to Disneyland and further on a tiny I put it down to that afternoon Barossa sun. Why do you think the name Barossa was originally mis~pelt fromwinery called Chatterton's, partly owned by South Barrasa by the mapmaker. ' And Lyndoch also misspelled from Lynedoch.' I blame that Barossa sun.Australia's Minister of Agriculture and maker of unusual Back at Yalumba, make a detour up to Keyneton andwines aged in Australian oak. pop in to see the Henschkes. It is a non-conformist winery in many ways, not least the fact that it is stuck byIt would be impossible to discuss every winery on this itself in the middle of nowhere.short tour, not to mention their wines, so I will restrict it Then take the road to Eden Valley, probably Australia's premium area for producing delicate acidto a few generalisations. And m y bottle is getting low. rhine riesling styles. Unfortunately one might expect more from the countryside in view of the magnificentWhen tourists visit the Barossa they inevitably see the wines it produces. It is relatively flat and dry , although you may appreciate the coldness about the air. While yoularge commercial wineries, wineries like Orlando, Kaiser are there visit Hamiltons at Eden Valley and further on at Springton.Stuhl, Penfolds, Seppelt and Tolley, Scott and Tolley After miles and miles of similar country, Birdwood(Tollana). suddenly wakes you up. This small Hills town (don't forget the National Motor Museum while you are there)If you are looking for personalised service and a chat begins one of the most interesting drives in Australia. Past beautiful gums, rocky cliffs and small burblingwith the winemaker forget them. But they do offer a wide brooks and tortuous road leads by spectacular half empty reservoirs finally to suburbia.ran~e of wines and consistency of quality often not But that's not all there is to a Barossa round tour. Theavailable to the small winemaker who lacks the expensive beautiful wines are there for you to try. The foods available are truly Germanic and ma$nificent, likeequipment. . Streuselkuchen and Bienenstich (cakes with color), the wursts and the powerfully flavored sauerkraut andI can't help remembering a few years ago taking a bus stinkerkase (aptly translated as stinking cheese), the old \"Barossa Deutscher\" folk with their accents, and the oldload of wine course students through a tour of Orlando's buildings and the atmosphere. Not to mention the old churches, which we won't (you've probably have seenwinery. There we were, 50 of us cramped in what must enough of those in Adelaide). I could go on and on ...have been by the size of it, a very junior manager's office. Come to think of it, I've rather enjoyed rem ini scing,It was very difficult trying to see through people three writing this article and drinking th at bottle. I might even do another one next month . Now let me see, where did Ideep to see the labels of the wines displayed. Fortunately leave that nice bottle of McLaren Vale red?Orlando's has improved its PR considerably since then. WINESTATE , MAY, 1978-15One thing the Barossa has a lot of is small wineries. Ifyou have a romantic spirit you can positively wallow inemotionalism in the valley. There are wineries there thatlook as though they were thrivin$ before the white mancame, wineries like Hoffman's in its Australian parklandsetting, Saltram near Angaston, and others likeBasedows and St. Hallett's. The small twentieth centurywineries abound also, such as Rovalley, Bernkastel,Wilsford and Karra Wirra.The branches of major companies, headquarteredelsewhere, thrive in the Barossa. The pull of the valleymakes a presence almost mandatory, with such branchesas Hardy's Siegersdorf, Talley's Dorrien and, formerl y,Reynella, south of Lyndoch .The personality wineries in the valley are undoubtedlyChateau Yaldara, Seppelt, Kaiser Stuhl, Leo Buring andYalumba. Each has a special appeal for a different reason.Chateau Yaldara figures because of the tremendousappeal of the building and its graceful setting.Incidentally, if you get the chance try to look inside at themany antique treasures that would make the averagegallery green with envy. And try their bubbly wines.Seppeltsfield deserves a day to itself. Indeed, it is a smalltown in itself. There is so much to see that thevisitor owes it to himself to leave plenty of time for avisit. The date palm lined drives are magnificent and theold mausoleum is quite unreal in its setting. Oh, anddon't forget the wines.

GRAPELLA... Henschke a ne~ spaijding, It is always refreshing to see a small winery specialising calone reduced in a limited range of table wines. As manager Stephen grape juice. Henschke, son of the famous Cyril, says: \"A small winery making all styles will produce only mediocre THE TINGLING TASTE IS IDEAL AS A THIRST wines .\" QUENCHER , HEALTH DRINK OR MIXER FOR PARTIES . CHOOSE FROM GRAPELLA, GRAPELLA DRY OR RED , It is to the Henschke family's credit that it has been able to survive with its specialist philosophy, given AND SPARKLING PEARL. Australia's small population and the economics of having only a few lines. Sadly, it is still true that a busload ofIt's the non-alcoholic alternative tourists will pull up at Henschke, discover that the winery for young and old. doesn't make sherries, and promptly leave. .~ It was in 1868 that Johann Christian Henschke, with his son Paul Gotthard, produced the first wine here. ItOChateau\,~1faldara seems the father-son relationship is continuing with Cyril and Stephen. FAMOU S CHA MPAG N E AND WI NEMAKERS OF THE BAROSSA VA LLEY They reckon they were the first to produce the range ofAVAILABLE FROM SUPERMARKETS, FOOD varietals they do today and these include the whites,AND LIQUOR STORES AND HEALTH SHOPS chenin blanc, ugni blanc, sercial chardonnay, sylvaner, traminer and semillon. All have a very dry acid character16- WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978 when young and the young ones should be interesting to see in a few year's time when the acid should have softened out. Henschke also has quite a cult following for its reds, the Hill of Grace (what marketing man wouldn't love to get hold of that name?) and Mount Edelstone figuring prominently. The tip for those two seems to be that the Hill of Grace, a fuller, softer wine, is best drunk young while the Mount Edelstone, being more acid, is better aged, even up to 20 years. The 1974 Keyneton Estate wine proved very interesting. Although a poor year, this wine is thinner than normal in body with a very high green acid, malic character on the palate. Combined with an almost smoked-oyster nose, it adds up to something more of a French burgundy character than most Australian reds. The 1975 cabernet shiraz is grown from Cyril's brother's vineyard nearby, where for some reason each row alternates vines of cabernet and shiraz. Needless to say the wine is a 50-50 blend. One of the most sought-after is the 1975 Hill of Grace. In limited supply, it is well balanced, beautifully red with a strong varietal shiraz bouquet, soft full flavour matched with a fresh acid lift. Location: From Adelaide go through the Barossa to Angaston . At the end of the main street turn left at the T- junction. Down this road is a fork. Go left to Keyneton and there turn left. At a crossroads is a sign marked simply \"Henschke\". The cellars are about five kilometres down this dirt road on the right. Cellar door opening times: Monday to Friday, 9-4.30 p.m.; Saturday, 9-noon. Inspection by appointment. And don't arrive during lunch , 12-1.30 p,m . Phone (085) 64 8223. Father and son in the cellars - Cyril (right) and Stephen Henschke, reliving memories of the original father and son.

Hoffman . . . is a unique bistro only 60 minutes from Adelaide combining superb Australian and German food, and extensive selection of fine local wines, and constantly changing exhibitions of works by local SA artists.In a country as yollflg as Europeanised Australia, for a Die Galerie is open from 9 a.m. oncompany to have been making wines for more than a weekdays and on Saturday, andcentury is already something. from noon on Sundays. Not only was Hoffman's winery established in 1847, lbut it is still in the family. The present owner-manager Lunch and dinner are served 7 days a week, orBruce Hoffman, is a descendant of the founder, Samuel. you can call into Die Galerie for afternoon tea,The winery itself is a reconciliation with its past. Behind or just for a quiet relaxing drink at the bar.the modern facade is the original tin shed. For romantics,the crushing equipment is all belt-driven, and has been You can dine indoors in rustic early Australi ana charm orgoing for 50 years. out in the magnificent fern filled Weingarten . Or come with a group of friends and book the private dining room. Its setting is truly peaceful and the winery'ssurrounding lawns offer one of the best spots in theBarossa for a barbecue or picnic lunch. Quite a gloriousmorning can be spent tasting fortifieds at Hoffman's. Soit's early in the day; just think that it's noon in Torontoand it will be OK. The winery produces a wide range of wine styles; butlet's stick with the fortifieds for a minute. Hoffman's has just released a 1933 liqueur tawnx portwhich has been in wood for 45 years. A truly magmficentwine (see New Releases for review). A lighter V27 specialold tawny was released at the same time, made up of 25%of the 1933 vintage. Getting back to earth, Hoffman's commercial reds andother fortifieds are worth looking at. The 1975 Shiraz is aripe, jammy wine, reminiscent of some WesternAu stralia reds. It may lack elegance but has lots of broadfla vor. The 1975 vintage port would be easy to \"put down\". Itis a very big, sweet vintage style, strongly fragrant on thenose and so thick you could almost spread it on asandwich. The tannin finish balances out the wine. Put itaway for your children. Location: From Adelaide go through Tanunda andabout a kilometre past the town turn left into Die WeinStrasse. Hoffman's is on the right down this road,between Leo Buring and Bernkastel Cellar door opening times: Monday to Saturday, 8-5p.m. Sunday by appointment. Phone (085) 63 2083 .For the romantic - Belt-driven machinery at Hoffman's, as Die Galerie is leading the way to it has been for half a century. dining perfection in the Barossa Valley. ART CENTRE e WINE CENTRE e BISTRO CENTRE 66-68 Murray St. (Main Road). Tanunda Phone (085) 63 2788 WINESTATE, MAY, 1978-17

TOLLEYS Karrawirra #~ ESTATE BOTILING Nestling, so to speak, in the bosom of the southern end of the Barossa ranges is the Karrawirra winery. It is 'Connoisseur's Choose actually in the Hoffnungsthal Valley (which translates as Tolley's for All Occassions' valley of hope), the first German settlement in the Barossa after the Hahndorf oioneers arrived. No wine can hope to be a great wine within a year and no one bothers to take particular An unimpressive shed overlooks the main road, care wi th a wine that can never be great. There emphasising a straight-forward approach lacking in some are no more illustrious examples of care, plus of the D1sneyland-looking wineries. You could call it the experience than Talley's fine range ... a swagg1e's version of a French chateau. treat for the wine lover and a promise of more exciting things to come. For such a small winery it is surprising th at Karra- wirra produces wines of so many styles, ranging from Available at leading restaurants and retail outlets fortifieds to table and sparkling wines. It is, however, Trade enquiries welcome now concentrating on maki ng quality wines and varietals, a common pursuit, it seems, these days. Victoria: DORADO DISTRIBUTORS PTY. LTD. Phone 478-4922 Karrawirra has been most successful with its reds and dessert wines and vintage ports figure prominently. One JI..S.W . SOUTHERN'VALESWINES (N.S .W .) PTY . LTD . such is the 1976 vintage, with Ian Chappell smiling from PhonE' 646-2277 the_label (see New Rel~ases fo r review). The wine is big in fruit , sweetness and ripeness. It could have had a drier A.C.T.:JOHN CAWSEY & CO. {CANB.]PTY. LTD. finish but it is nevertheless a good one to put away for Phone 95-1255 many years. W.A.: JOHN O'HAGAN & CO. The cabernet is also a ripe wine and typical of the Phone 28-4151 heavier Barossa reds. Fruit character is dominant. QLD.: BEENLEIGH RUM PTY . LTD . Karrawirra's l977 flago n red is called \" vin ordinaire\", Phone 87-2006 some tast ers migh t say quite aptly. It does have a spectacular label for a flagon wine. Featuring the TAS.: HEDGES & LAWSON Launceaton red, white and blue of the French tricolour it reall,Y stands Phone31-4017 out. Some like to \"hide their Coolabah\" but this 1s one to flaunt. A straight grenache, it is light, astringent and very MacFARLANE BROS. & CO. PTY. LT D. dry with a peculiarly dill-pickle nose. Pboae Hobart 34-2533 Location: From Adelaide head to Lyndoch, then take S.A. DOUGLAS A. TOLLEY PTY. LTD. the road to Williamstown. About three kilometres along Phone 264-225S the road, to the winery is marked on the left and Karra Wirra is a kilometre off the main road.18 - WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978 Cellar door opening times: Monday to Saturday, 9-5 p.m . Inspection on request. Phone (085) 24 4110. There 's always a smile whe n dri nking wine - the scene at Ka rrawirra's ta sting room .

Leo BuringS _Black Label Collection Consistently good bin wines Saying, \"consistently good bin wines\" • is not just idle talk BLACKLAB~ Over recent years our Black Label Collection COLLECTION has won 76 medals, 13 of which are gold. WINESTATE, MAY, 1978- 19 In anyone's language that's quite a collection of medals. For you, it is an assurance of consistency. Whichever variety you choose from the Black Label Collection you can be sure of a superb wine. Every time. Bin 33 Riesling. Bin 21 Moselle. Bin 86 White Burgundy. Bin 7 Claret. Bin 13 Burgundy. If the occasion warrants something special, choose from the Black Label Collection.BU1053 .

Barossa Winestate's winery of the month ValleyLeo .BuringLeo During Wines Pty. Ltd., Winestate's first Winery of the Month, hasbeen an outstanding success in the dry white wine field. Over the years ithas been consistently among the better makers of the acid dry rhineriesling style in Australia. This is partly due to the traditions set by the founder, the late LeoDuring; the influence of perfectionists like John Vickery andReg Shipster; the superior winemaking equipment gained early in thecompany's history; and of course the raw materials - the grapes fromthe premium rhine .riesling areas of the upper Darossa and Clare areas.Leo Buring - his life and thoroughness seemed to touch in 1898 , Leo reportedly worked withLeo Buring was a remarkable man . his life over the next 80 yea rs. Professor Bouffard researching theA s a trendsetter in Australia's early use of concrete fermenting tanks,wine history he is an important His early education was at Prince used widely in Australia until a fewfigure . Alfred College, Adelaide, from 1883- years ago when the stainless steel 94 . Then at Roseworthy College he tank came into vogue. He began as a highly educated completed an oenology course, beingwinem a ker and ended his career as a dux and gold medal winner. Even at R eturning to Australia, Leos uccessful wine merch a nt. In Buri ng began work with his firstbetween, he changed Australian this early age he was showing A ust ralian company in June 1898 .wine - drinking patterns by abilities and what was to come. The company was Buring & Sobelsintroducing Rhinegolde, a table wine \" Spri ngvale\" at Watervale, nearthat was to many the only popular After Roseworthy, Leo continued C la re, in South Australia .wine of our early wine history. his winemaking education a t Geisenheim Viticultural College in A fter two years as cellarman at He was born Hermann Paul Germany, where he spent a year. Bu ring & Sobels (later to becomeLeopold Buring on October 7, 1876, There he studied the culture of pure Quellta ler) Leo moved to Rutherg len yeast development in winemaking in Victo ria where he spent a year asat Friederichswalde in South and spent his practical period of 'm a nager of Alex Prentice's wi neAustralia, to German parents, learning in the cellars of Johann cella rs. Still in Victoria he too k overTheodor Gustav Hermann Buring. Klein of Johannisberg on the Rhine. the management of H ans lrvine'sand Lina (Dohrenwend) Buring. HisGerman background of hard work Moving on to the viticultural college of Montpellier, south France,20-WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

Nestling in the gums on the edge of Tanunda, Chateau Leonay, headquarters of Leo Buring. On the facing page is the founder'sdrawing of the dream chateau (never quite finished) now used as a label. Leo Buring continued vineyards in Victoria. The company Often we know less about famous mainly purchased wines from NSW, people of recent times . t~an their wine cellars at Great Western in especially from the Hunter Valley. illustrious forefailiers; this 1s true of 1901. · Later the company began purchasing wines from other wine Leo Buring. A year later he was on the move regions and to that extent Leo again. Leo Buring was becoming a Buring can be credited with opening We- know he achieved an year-to-year proposition. up Australia's other wine regions. enormous amount in weaning many Australians on to table wines in the This time he took up residence as Perhaps a long-held dream led him days when raw fortifieds and spirits manager of the Minchinbury cellars to buy the Orange Grove vineyard in were the popular drinks. And Regin NSW . Probably to everyone's the Barossa Valley at the ripe old age Shipster, the current winerysurprise Leo stayed with the of 68. This became the wmery that manager, remembers Leo'scompany for 17 years . we know today as Leo Buring's. The perseverance in promoting the need for financial security led to the consumption ·or table wines.. . During that period he produced company's going public m 1950.the first Minchinbury champagne, He has been described as thewhich with other table wines took off When he died in September 1961, ambassador of wine, a reference nosix gold medals at the Brewers and 85, he had ceased to play an active doubt to his involvement in theWine Exhibition in London in 1906. role in the company althou~h he still exporting of Australian wines to theAfter the company's takeover by held the position of cha1rman of United States, Canada, Britain andPenfolds Wines Ltd., Leo remained directors of Leo Buring (Holdings). . the Pacific Islands.as manager, as well as technicaladvisor, until September 1919. During his life Leo Buring held In Australia, Leo Buring many industry positions including influenced many wine men . Some With an already broad experience have said he personally helped thembehind him, Leo, in the same year president of the Federal Viticultural with \"much sound advice andestablished a technical wine Council of Australia 1931, encouragement.\"consultant firm. He was in great representative of NSW and Queensland on the Australian Wine There is a strong argument that hedemand and advised, among other Overseas Marketing Board as well as introduced champagne-making tofirms, B. Seppelt & Sons Ltd., numerous other memberships. Australia. He certainly encouragedAngoves Ltd., H . M. Martin & Sons the establishment of other wineof Stonyfell, Great Western His influence in weaning regions when only the Hunter Valley·Vineyards, and R .. C . H . Walker of Australians to table wine through his was well-known. In that respect heMorphett Vale. He also became Rhinegolde cannot be over probably paved the way for a trulygoverning director of Lindemans emphasised. His influence within the national wine industry.Wines Ltd. and held that position industry was also great, rangingfrom 1923-30. from his technical advice to other Reg Shipster knew him as a hard wine companies to his reports to taskmaster who expected others to In 1931 Leo Buring took the Government, resulting in favourable work as hard as he did. He was aplunge and set up his own winery. changes of benefit to the industry. dynamic man who didn't spareMore appropriately he also was a Leo During - the man himself and had the reputedwine merchant in partnership with thoroughness of his German origin.Mr . R. H. Mowat, an oldaquaintance from the Great Western WINESTATE, MAY, 1978 - 21

Barossa 1945: Own vineyard acreage 70 Reg continued as winemaker until Va I ley acres. Grapes from own vineyard 1955 when he was appointed winery plus three local growers. R . F. Shipster appointed winemaker at manager. Although administrative duties now take up his time Reg says Chateau Leonay. First vintage of 70 tons produced 9000 gallons. he still has a say in the vintaging process. \"I remember him 'flying' over I946: Equipment expansion to The man who has received mostfrom Sydney, \" says Re~. \"Never provide production and storage for publicity as winemaker for Leores~ing, _h~ would be writing letters three vintages. Buring Ltd. is John Vickery. Dr.while dnvmg over the dusty roads in Bryce Rankine (Australia's onlythe old Ford. He would travel long I950: Leo Buring formed a public doctor of oenology) in his book,distances by road, preaching the company in July to raise funds to \"Wines and Wineries of the Barossagospel of table wine drinking.\" rebuild the chateau. The company Valley,\" describes John Vickery as was registered on the Stock one of Australia's most noted Exchange as Leo Buring (Holdings)This dynamic man, in his later · Ltd. and Leo Buring Ltd . became a winemakers.years more a wine merchant than a subsidiary of the public company. Len Evans adds his acclaim. In hiswinemaker, must have become very 1953: Purchased Coq Mill book, \"Cellarmaster Says,\" writtentired at the enormity of his task - Crusher, most modern of that time. when the magnificent new rhinebringing wine to all Australians. I955: John Vickery joined the rieslings of Buring's were firstJohn Vickery, who was in I953 a company as winemaker. Reg coming on to the market, he saysyoung winemaker with the company Shipster was appointed winery \"John (Vickery) is regarded as one ofat Chateau Leonay, remembers Leo manager. Cellar expanded to the the best white winemakers inBuring's last two years. \"I saw him style of Chateau Leonay today. Australia.\"as a very old man,\" says John . \"He I956: Leo Buring retired from John is modest about his active management of the company. achievements. He attributes thecame over from Sydney occasionally success of Leo Buring's in the 60s toto view proceedings. He was very I959: A second hand-bottling a lot of luck, publicity, equipmentquiet and didn't communicate much plant was installed at Chateau and the traditional attention toat all.\" Leonay. Bottling began, initially of detail. He believes the company was straight Hunter Valley wines shipped When he died he left a lot of work by tanker from NSW. Sparkling in the right place at the right time tounfinished, including his own Rhinegolde introduced and take advantage of a new surge ofpersonal dream of a completed immediately became a big seller. interest in wine, brought about byFlemish chateau at Tanunda. But wine writers like Len Evans and thewhat he did leave behind was much I96 I: Leo Buring dies. Chateau door opening of wine caused bymore important: a pioneering spark incomplete. popular wines such as Barossa Pearlthat was to light up the wine scene in and Sparkling Rhinegolde.Australia. 1962: Lindemans Wines bought Leo Buring's (Holding) Ltd. Other people add that theChateau Leonay company had the premium product 1963: Air bag press introduced. t<? take advantage of all those · 1971: Phillip Morris took over Lindemans Holdings. 1974: John Vickery moved to circumstances.Leo Buring Ltd., situated in Sydney, Lindemans Rouge Homme In 1974 John was transferred towas growing too quickly in 1944. vineyards at Coonawarra. Mostyn Lindemans Rouge HommeWorld War II and the influx of Kaesler became winemaker. vineyards at Coonawarra andAmerican soldiers resulted in a big The Winemen Mostyn Kaesler became winemakerdemand for its wines. The fact that it Albert Charles Shipton was Leo at Buring's Tanunda cellars.only distributed matured wines Buring's first winemaker. From thedidn't help either. time Leo Buring established his own The era of the individual company in 193 I until Bert joined in winemaker at Leo Buring ended Something had to be done to when John Vickery left.increase current stock levels. To this 1941 the company operated as a The wines end Leo Buring decided in January .merchant organisation, buying wines I945 to buy a winery in the Barossa from various wine companies. When we think of Leo Buring wines Valley. His choice was the old we think of elegant, acid, dry rhine _Bert began as a cellar manager at riesling wines. It was not always so. Orange Grove winery on the North Ye Old Crusty Cellars in George Para River near Tanunda, which had Street, Sydney and worked with the It does seem ironic that Buring did been built in 1897 by Gottlieb company until his retirement in not even make a riesling wine until Hoffman (whose descendants, Bruce 1952. His son Ray, who joined in about 1957-58. The early wines· Hoffman and family, still have a - I942, continued the family tradition. included sweet whites from nonsmall winery nearby). premium material such as pedro, The first winemaker at Chateau palamino and sercial, fortified, and Leo Buring called the winery Leonay was Reginald F. Shipster, dry red table wines.Chateau Leonay. Nobody knows who was trained by Leo Buring.why, but we do know that he dreamt When Reg joined in 1945 Chateau The early fame rested withof rebuilding it. There is the label to Leonay was making wines and \"Rhinegolde\" translated from theprove it. sending them by tanker to be bottled Germa!1 this means pure gold, at the company's South Melbourne referring to the colour and Drawn by the man himself, the and Redfern (Sydney) cellars . presumably what was hoped wouldChateau Leonay labels show a grand Although some of the equipment was be its worth . Developed for popularcastle-like structure, simple yet primitive in those days, Reg says the taste, it was a sweet wine that for basic techniques were similar to many years was the only well-knownelegant, with impressive spires on those used today. Even then the table wine in Australia.each of the corner turrets. It was Buring wines were a result ofnever completed. meticulous attention to detail. Over recent years Buring has been recognised for premium table wines. Th~re are many milestones in the First we need to look at thehistory of the chateau. Some of theseinclude:22-WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

Leo Buring continued ries ling _ three gold, six silver;_ three bronze; one finds with some aged whitesnomenclature applied to the DW and 1976 DW F 25 Eden Vall ey rhme neslmg - where oxidation has taken its toll. one gold, fo ur sil ver, three bro nze; . .DR range of table wines. . Leo Buring's· offer a range of 1976 DWF 26 Eden Vall ey rh 1ne neshng -These impress i ve- _so unding wines to cater for varying degrees of one go ld, fo ur sil ver; . .. !977 DWG 37 Watervale rhme neshng - taste and the fullness of the purse.alphabetical and numenc , prefi~es three gold, fo ur silver, two bro_nze; . . The premium ra_nge is the res~rverelate to the company s wine 1977 DWG 41 Wate rvale rhme nesh ng - bin category havmg the speciallyclassification system. · two go ld three silver, one bronze; l977 DW G 45 Barossa and Waterva1e numbered white background labels.The DW/DR prefix simply re_fers sr.aetl ese rh ine ries li ng - two gold, fo ur These are the DR/DW series weto dry white and dry red. All wm~s sil ver three bronze; have been discussing . They arehave a cellar number at then 1973 Bin 42 Mosell e, Watervale spaetlese ex pensive but the quality iswinemaking origin, referring to the rhine riesli ng - three trophies, nine gold, five outstanding. Unusually, they aretank or other storage vessel froi:n sil ve r fo ur bronze; d 1970 DR 251 Barossa cabernet an generally availab_le at t~e cellar doorwhich they were prodl;lced. Th!s Coonawa rra shiraz - two trophies, four gold, unlike the premmm wmes of somesupplies the comp~ny with a_ basic one sil ver, 4 bronze; other companies. .numeric record which stays with the Getting thirstier? We looked at a The private bin wines, with thewine through its blending travels. couple of wines due t_o be released by bl a ck background, are theBetween the DW/DR and the the time you read this. Undou~tedly co mpany's second best ra~ge. ~heynumber is a letter which refers to the they were the best currently a_va1 lable are regarded as commercial wmesyear of vintage. Thus ~he first year of Leo Buring's wi nes and certamly fi ne with perhaps that extra tou~h ofthis line in 1945 earned the letter A wines . The first was the 1969 DWY ~ 15 qu ality. . They are very constst~ntafter the DW, 1946 as 8, 1947 C, ~tc. wines and can be purchased withAs you can probably guess Bunng Eden Valley rhine riesling. Havmg co nfidence. (See this mo~th'shad got through the alphabet by 1970 won two troph ies, eight ~o ld and 10 restaurant wine review). The Bm 33and in 1977 was using the letter G other medals it had a ped1gr~e - and riesling is especially well known . It'safter the DW . Unless you have so~e it was not dissapointing. W1_nemak~r amazing how that touch of_ muscatvery old wines it is unlikely you will Tim Knappstein has descnbed ~his lifts the fruit flavour of a wme.have any confusion . wine as one of the greatest dry whites In the lower priced bracket is theWhere no letter occurs after the he has tasted. Chateau Leonay wines . TheyDW/ DR prefix the~ the wi~e is a An extraordinary complex aged inco rporate the c<?lourful labelblend, either from different v_mtages bouquet combines with a clean n_ess designed by Leo Bunng.or the same vintage but different th at is a hallmark of the Bun ng At the bottom end of the rangesregions. . white. The palate is steely d~y, yet are the paradoxically named extraAfter all that you must be ~ettmg the fruit character balances _this la_ck special wines. .thirsty, so let's talk about individual of sweetness. A beautiful wme, with W e s hould also mentionwines. h. . k a clean lingering finish .I asked John Vickery for 1s pie Liebfraum ilch which like the Bin 33 The second wine, the 1971 D~A riesling is a big seller and a veryof the Buring wines over the years I0 Barossa Valley spaetles_e rhme accept able sweet table wine (shadesand his choice was the 1966 DWV riesling also impressed . Havmg won of the early Rhinegolde). The12, rhine riesling from the Eden th ree t rophies, six gold and !6 other com pany also makes seven otherVall ey region . As an after th_ought medals, it was even more beJewelled sparkling winesJohn said: \"But the 1970 vmtage than the fi rst wine. It had a delicate light goldenwhites are very good. \" . .Looking up the record_1t 1s ha_rd _to colou r with a rich fullness on _thedi sag ree. For those that hke ~tahst_1cs nose like a smokey syrup. Incred1blyhere are a few of the Australian wme well 'balanced, it had both a fullnessshow awards: and a lightness a_bout it at the ~ame 197 1 DW 11 9 Waterva le rhine riesling - time. Sou nds unlikely? But that s ~hesix gold three sil ver, one bro nze; impression. Unlike some Aust ralian 1975 'ow 187 Barossa and Eden Valley spaetl ese styles it was~' t to? sweetrh ine ries lin g - six gold, two sil ver, one and again the clean acid fimsh wasbronze; 1976 DW 202 Barossa and Ed_en Vall ey apparent. .rhine ries ling - one gold, fo ur sil ver, fo ur Two spritely old gr~nm~s - well,bronze, one diploma ; grannies, as far as white wmes go - 1977 DW 246 Barossa and Eden Valley will be kicking their heels for manyrh ine riesling - one gold, three sil ver, threebro nze; h' years to come. ..1971 DWA 10 Spaetlese Barossa r me The prices? At the time of wntmgriesli ng - three trophies, six gold, 13 silver , these weren't determined, but don'tthree bronze; . •-1971 DWA 15 Eden Va lley rhme n es1mg- expect much change from $20 aone tro phy, ni ne go ld , fou r sil ve_r, one bronze; bottle.1972 DWB 13 Watervale _rhme neslmg-:- If yo u're not planning to ma:ry aone tro ph yJou r go ld, seven si lver, six bronze. director's daughter to obtain a1973 DWC 11 Barossa rhme n eshng -three tro phies, 13 gold, fo ur silver, one b_ronze;_ dozen, you could look at the 19771973 DWC 15 Watervale rhm e neslmg - DW 246 Barossa and Eden Valleyone trophy, eight gold, two silve~, one bronze; rh ine riesling and the 1976 DWF ~61973 DWC 17 Eden Valley rhme n eshng - Eden Valley rhine riesling. They wi ll14 go ld, three sil ver, three bronze;.1974 DWD 13 Barossa rhme n eshng - one develop in the same_ way as the twotrophy, six gold, one sil ver;_ . . wines discussed earlier.1974 DWD 15 Ba rossa rhme n eshng - one Probably more than . any ot~ertrophy, three go ld, one sil ver; . . . white wine in Australia, Bunng1975 DW E 13 Watervale rhme neslmg -five gold, two sil ver, four bronze; . . premium whites can be relied on to1975 DW E 17 Eden Valley rhme neslmg - age beautifully in the bottle. They In the end. as in the beginning , the remarkable Leo Buring .three go ld , four silver, two bronze; . don't develop the kerosene character WINESTATE. MAY. 1978 - 231975 DW E 18 Watervale spaetlese rhme

TheWeinkeller Restaurant Barossa ~Valley Dining with sense of historyIt's more than a century departures f_romsince German settlers traditional German dishes.crushed the first grapes in It proved to be athe old wine cellars that thoroughly enjoyablenow house the famous meal.Gramp's Weinkeller. Appetiser: Yabbie pate The cellar was built by ($3.35 each). .William Jacob (after Yabbies are scarce thiswhom Jacobs Creek was time of the year, but thenamed) in 1856 and Weinkeller, with amanaged by Mr. Sobels of reputatio~ for del!ciousWatervale, one of the most yabbies, still had a dish onnotable vignerons of the the menu, aera. The property was mouthwatering blend ofknown as the Moorooroo yabbie and wursts on aVineyards. lettuce bed. We persuaded Gramp's Orlando the chef to give us thepurchased the vineyards in recipe.1935 and sadly, for the Soup: Colin's gazpachon ext 35 years 11 s the~e (95c). .d elig htf ul h tor1c The Weinkeller 1sbuildings housed only among the few restaurantsvineyard equipment. offering authentic cold Restoration came to Spanish gazpacho soup.Moorooroo in 1970, when It's spicy and definitely athe property came into the early Moorooroo treat for those who havehands of Colin and winemaking days. closed off for private parties and receptions. acquired a taste forJosephine Gramp and ~heir It is managed by Michael Gramp who The decor is cellar-like, gazpacho. With great foresight imparts a quiet dignity to with rough cast walls, old the restaurant. coach lamps, wagon Entree: Shaslik mitthey recognised that the wheels chained to the Inside one senses the ceiling carrying extra Pinkanter Tunke ($3.20).old cellar amongst the history of the old building lighting, and the chers blending with the \"specials\" written in chalk Whether you prefer hotvines overlooking Jacobs Weinkeller atmosphere of on an end of a large wine dining German-style, with barrel. or mild, here is a reallywines overlooking Jacobs an international touch. High pew-like benches delicious shaslik.Creek and the Red Gum fhe Weinkeller has a' and tables line one wall, giving diners a sense of Main Course: GarnishedReserve, would make an newer dining and reception privacy, while t_he main area. Built with a high dining area is quite open. sauerkraut ($4.50).ideal eating house where steeple roof, this section · blends in well with the To try a reasonable Traditional German farediners could relax and older building. This range of the restaurant's foods, we decided on some with bi ack pudding,tshaamtpalerethtreadfoitoidonaanldfawrein7ms smaller dining area can be t German sausage, bacon,this unique valley. pork, ham and wursts on a The Weinkeller base of sauerkraut. IfRestaurant, now you're going to eatdelightfully contained German, this is definitelywithin the cellars, has one to try.created life in the old Sweets: Bienenstich ($1.50).building unknown since its Truly some of the valley's best bienenstich, normally served with either cream or ice cream,,24- WIN ESTATE, MAY, f978

(but at our request we had / Special Limitedboth!). Production with the saltiness of that Roman coffee ($1.80). salad . 1977 A Galliano-based coffeewas a most satisfying way The wine itself was SPAETLESE LEX IAto complete an excellent impressive. It had ameal. pronounced chenin blanc ONE OF THE GREAT palate and a beautifully W HITES OF MILAWAChers recipe developed character with a clean acid finish. A good A VAILABLE ALL STATES Yabbie Pate example of how a clean TRADE EN QUIRIES TO : white burgundy should 450g veal liver develop. The long lingering MELBOURNE SYDNEY 450g bell y pork flavour asked for more, Mr. Ron O' Malley Mr. Merv Carruth ers 450g yabbie tails more, more. Take a bow Phone (03) 29 5439 Phone (02 ) 93 5300 225g butter O rlando. ¼ orange with peel ADELAIDE BRISBANE 1 whole white onion ·1ncidenta ll y, the wine Mrs. Beverley Petersen Mr. Doug Seabrook 2 litres chicken stock Phone (076) 61 3528 salt and pepper was served in an \"Ouzo & Phone (08) 356 8777 Coke\" cafeteria glass. The HOBART Peel and slice the liver, wine waiter , who PERTH Websters Ltd. slice the belly pork, mix announced himself as Rolf, Regional Vin eya rd Distributors Phone (002) 34 2522 with whole onion, ora nge explained at length that and peel , butter , salt and only the premium wines Phone (092) 35 7449 pepper to taste. Place in a were served in the thistle- pot with stock. shaped wine glasses, and COUNTR Y AREAS besides they didn't have BROWN BROS . MI LAWA VINEYARD PTY. LTD ., Boil for 20 minutes and enough of those. Not quite put aside for half an hour good enough . MILAWA , VICTORIA . 3678 to cool. Then put twice through a mincer so the Getting back to the good Phone (057)273611 texture is very smooth. bits, we later ordered a I970 Henschke Hill of Mix yabbie tails with the Grace red wine . paste and place in a baking Undoubtedly a wine that dis h to fit. Cook in an oven will keep, the high acid at 375 deg. F for three- level is still apparent after quarters of an hour. Let eight years of maturation. cool, and refrigerate until Maybe a bit thin in fruit served. level, the wine still has a nice flavour indicative ofDrinking with the lighter bodied wines inPeter Simic the Barossa Hills. Because Winestate is We did try one other looking at such an wine earlier, but young enormous range of t_he Michael Gramp pleaded more usual wines in our that it not be reviewed, as major restaurant wine he only had a few bottles review (page 30) and it left and his yearly supply would seem a little was limited. A developed embarrassing to dare to acid riesling of 1972, add to the experts' although a bit thin, it opinions, let us look at needed only a botrytis wines a little out of the (fungus) character to ordinarv at the Weinke!ler. remind one of a European Ifs also a damned fine white. It was the sort of excuse to lash out. wine you wouldn't throw stones at l f you were m There's no doubt about the garden, that 1s. it, Gramp's Weinkeller restaurant'has a lot going If you like to spend for the ardent winelover. With a wine background hours over the wine list and like that, it is to be five minute with the expected. menu, ask for the special wine list. You will be We tried an Orlando impressed with the wines. 1973 chenin blanc and and the prices. madiera white burgundy style wine. Ordered to Open: Tuesday to match a salty herring Saturday for lunch and salad, it failed . To be dinner; Sunday: lunch truthful it was the choice only. It is open some that was a dismal failure as Sun d ay nights and no wine cou ld compete Mondays over holiday periods. Booking is advisable. Eating with Bob Heinicke WINESTATE, MAY, 1978 - 25

\"T':'\" ~• r,n;~ .A APPROX •,;Q?TH ~ - j _,,,,_.=,'=\"\",Y i:, S.C~'> H,,1 SCALE ---- ....I 2 l 4 ~ll OMET R£S LEGEND BITUMEN ROADS - --®- GRAVEL ROADS .o TR ACKS KI LOMETRES NATIONAL ROUTES4gramps Mtinktlltr ~tstaurant I !ROWLAND FLAT JACOBS CREEK, BAROSSA VALLEY(085) 63 8266 Barossa and Continental Cuisine + SUPERB SELECTION 1 OF DISTRICT WINES RECEPTION HOURS: Noon-2 p.m. 6 p.m. -8 p.m . CLOSED SUNDAY NIGHTS AND ALL MONDAY. EXCEPT HOLIDAYS RESERVATIONS ARE ADVISABLEPO BOX 244, TANUNDA, SOUTH AUSTRALIA. (POST CODE 5352)26 - WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978

Wineries of the valley Barossa Va IleyThe numbers refer to the wineries' location on 11. High _Wycombe , Betha ny . Opened in 1976. High buildings, la ndscaped picnic area with gas barbecues and athe map on th e facing page. Wycom be is the sma ll es t winery in the Valley. vinegar pla nt. Its date palms which are a feature of all l6s~~~i.ons , tasting a nd sales daily, 9 a. m. to 5 p.m. Phone Seppchs wineries. Tours Mon . to Fri., 10 a .m., 11 a.m. , JI. Kaurawirra, Ly ndoch. Built in 1969, cove ring 60 hecta res. p.m., 2 p.m ., 3 p.m.; Sat., 11 a._m.• I p.m., 2 p.m ., 3 p.m . Tastings a nd sales Mon. to Sat., 9 a.m. to 5 p.m . 12. Chateau Tallunda, Tanunda. A beautiful old bluestone Tastrn gs and sa les Mon. to Fn ., 9 a .m . to 5 p.m.; Sat. , winery built in 1889. Tasting a nd sales Mon. to Fri. , 9 10.30 a .m. to 4.30 p.m. Phone 62 8028 . Inspection in request. Phone (085) 24 4110. a .m. to 5 p.m . G uided tours M on. to Fri .• 10.30, I 1.30, 1.30, 2.30, 3.30. Phone 63 2626. 23 . Tarac (Grape By- Products), Nuriootpa. Recovers wi ne2. Wil sford. Lyndoch . Founded in 1859 by Englishman John wastes. processin~ the maro to tartaric acid. grapeseed oil Bu rge. Tast in g and sa les Mo n. to Sat., 8 a.m . to 4 p.m . 13. Basedows, Tanunda . A sma ll family winery , j ust north of a nd fo rtifying spirit. No inspections . Inspection 10 a.m.•4 p.m. Ph one 24 4019. Barbecue T anunda . Tasting and sa les Mon . to Sat. , 10 a.m . to 5 facilities . p.m. Picrtic a rea. Phone 63 2060. 24 . Tolley, Scotland Tolley (Tollana ), Nuriootpa. Established in 1904. Tasting and sales Mon. to Fri., 9 a.m. to 4.303. Chs leau Yaldara, Lyndoch. Establi shed by Hermann 14. Veritas, Tanunda. Tasting and sales Mon. to Sat. , 8 a. m. p.m.; Sat. . 10 a.m. to 5 p.m . Phone 62 1433 . Thumm in 1947 in the ruins ofa mid 19th cen tury winery to 4 .30 p.m . In spection by appointment. Phone 63 2330. and flour mill. The administrati ve buildings arc built 25 . Penfolds, Nuriootpa. One of the largest wineries in the 15. Bemkastel, Tanunda. Tasting and sa les Mon. to Sat., 10 Valley. Th e winery bu ilding covers over three hectares. tNr:J !~~hl~~~sttas3u!~~mC~n~~~~~dat~ucr~3 ~~u~- ~~dF~f.~ a. m. to 5 p.m .; Sun. 11 a. m. to 4 p.m. Picnic lunches Tours Mon. to Fri.• 10 a.m., 11 a. m., 1.30 p.m ., 2.30 p.m . available Sat. , Sun and public holidays. Phone 63 2595. Tastmg and sa les Mon . to Fn., 9 a.m . to 5.30 p.m.; Sat., 10. 15 a .m.. 11.15 a.m., 1.15 p.m . 2. 15 p.m .. 3.15 p.m. 10 a.m . to 5 p.m. Phone 62 18 11 . Tasting and sales Mon. to Sat. . 8 a. m . to 5 p.m. Ph one 16. Leo Buring Chateau Leonay, Tanunda. Purchased by Leo 24 4200. Buring in 1945. He planned his new building with 26. Bilyara (Wolf Blass Wines), Nuriootpa. Established in Flemish towe rs and turret s. Inspect ions by appointment . 1973 by German wi nem aker Wolf Blass . Tasting and sales4. Karlsburg, Lyndoch. Built in the style of a Germa n castle, Tast ings and sal es Mon . to Fri., 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m .; Sat., Mon . to Fri .• 9.15 a.m. to 4. I5 p.m .; Sat. , 10 a.m . to 4. 15 10 a.m. to 5 p.m . Picni c a rea. Phone 63 2 184. p.m. Phone 62 1955.it was estabhshc~ by Karel Ci micky in 1972. Tasting and 17. Hoffmann's North Para, Tanund a. One of the smallersa les Mon. lo Frt., 9 a.m. to 5 p.m .; Sat., 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. wine ries in the Valley. Overl ooks the North Para River, with a n a tlractive picnic and barbecue area. Tasting andInspecti ons by appointment . Barbecue area. Phone sa les Mon . to Sat. , 8 a.m . to 5 p.m. Sunday by appo intment. Phone 63 2083.24 4025. I 18 . Ha rdy's Siegersdorf, Tanunda. Tasting and sa les Mon . to5. ChatlertOns, Lyndoch . A small family wmery built tn an Fri ., 8 a. m . to 4.30 p.m.: Sa t. , 9 a.m. to 5 p.m . Inspection 28. Saltram, Angaston. Developed by Englishman William old coach house . Tastin g and sal es Mon to Sat , 9 a m to 10-11 a.m .. 2-4 p.m. Ph one 63 2071. I p.m. , 2 p.m . to 5 p. m. Phon e 24 40E2. Sal ter in 1859. Tasti ng and sales Mon. to Fri., 9 a. m . to 5 19 . Seppelts, Dorrien. Estab lished as pa rt of the Seppelts p.m .; Sat., 10 a.m. to noon . 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Inspections winery complex in the 1940s. N o inspecti ons or cellar doo r sales. by appointment. Phone 64 2018.6. Ro,alley, Rowland Flat. Establis hed by the Liebich family 20. Douglas A. Tolley, Dor rien . A small wi nery overlooking 29. Yalumba, Angas ton. Establi shed by Samuel Smit h in the North Pa ra River . No inspectio ns. 1849. The two-storey winery is surrounded by attractive i~ 19 18. Th_e w1ne ry has a storage capacity of almost 2.3 m. ga rdens . Tou rs Mon. to Fn., 11 a. m., 1.30 p.m ., 3 p.m. htres. Tasting and sales Mon. to Fr1. . 9 a.m. to 4.45 p.m., 21. Kaiser Stu hl, Nuriootpa . The on ly co-operatively ow ned Tasting and sa les Mon. to Fri .. 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m . Phone Sat.. 10 a.m . to noon, I p.m. to 4.30 p.m . Phone 63 8237. winery in the Valley. Kai ser Stuhl was estab lished in 1931 . 64 2423. In 1958 the co-op. develo ped its ow n label and followed a7. Gramp's Orlando, Rowland Flat. Establ ished in 1847 policy of mark eting wines fr om individual vineyards. 30. Henschke, Keyneton. Last remaining winery in Kcyneton when J ohann Gramp planted hi s vineyard in the Valley at Tours Mon. to Fri. , 9.30 a. m., 10.30 a.m., 11 a.m., 1 p.m ., a rea. it was planted by Paul Gotthard Henschke in 1847. Jacobs C reek. Tours Mo n. to Fri. , 9.30 a. m., 11 a.m., 2 2 p.m .. 3 p.m. Sales and tastings Mon. to Fri. , 8.30 a. m . to Tasting and sales Mon . to Fri., 9 a.m. to 4. 30 p.m.; Sat., 9 p.m .. 3.30 p.m. Tasting and sa les Mon. to Fri. , 9 a.m. to 5 noon, I p.m. to 5.30 p.m . Sat., 10 a. m . to noo n. I p.m. to 5 a .m . to noon . Inspection by appointment. Phone 64 8223. p.m .. Sat., 10 a. m. to 4.30 p.m. Phone 63 8545. p. m. Ph one 62 1633 . 3 1. Hami ltons, Eden Valley. Tasting and sales Mo n. to Sat., 8. Krondorf, Tanunda. Tours Mon . to Fri., 10.30 a.m . and 22. Seppells, Seppeltsfield . · Found ed by Joseph Seppelt, a 9.30 a.m. to 4 .30 p.m. Phone 64 1025 . 2.30 p.m. Tasting and sales Mon. to Sat., 10 a .m . to 5 p.m. Silesian migrant who/urchased the la nd in 1852 to grow Phone 63 2145. tobacco. Seppeltsfiel is a complex in itself, almost a 32 . Hamiltons, Springton. A small winery acquired by vi ll age of winery , ce ll ars , distillery , admi ni st rative 9. Chateau Roseva le, Tanunda. Tasting, sa les Mon. to Sat. , Ham ih ons in 1938. Ba rbecue area. Tasting and sales 8.30 a .m . to 5.30 p.m., Sun ., 10.30 a.m . to 5 p.m. Lunches Mo n. to Fri .• 9 a .m. to 4.30 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m . to ,4.30 can be purchased . Phone 63 2114. p.m . Ph one Springton 264.10. St. Hall ect 's, Ta nund a. Founded in 1918 by the Lindner 33 . Holmes Estate, 5 km south of Springton then 5 km east. family. Tasting and sales Mon. to Fri ., 8 a.m . to 5 p.m., Sat., 9.30 a .m.-5. 30 p.m. Barbecue a rea. Ph one 63 2319. 3~g ~i~ '.oAttractive hillside picnic and barbecue area. Tastin,s and pa~~~J~d~lafl:· 9 5 p.m .; Sun. 11 a.m. to p.m.- - - -Dining-------. --Accommodation---.Ga~·ler: Old Wheatsheaf Hotel, restored to Dorrien: Die Weimtube Restaurant, Sturt Angaston: Angaston Hotel, phone (085 - Tanunda: Tanunda Hot;!, phone 63 2030. colonial style, serves morning and Highway, modern restaurant seating all ph on e numbers in the Barossa have room on ly: SI0-$18. Wel nta l afternoon teas. I~O, has .some Germa n dishes and local this STD prefix) 64 2428, bed and Hotel/ Motel, phone 63 2303, room wmes . breakfast: SIO single, $20 twi n or on ly: Sl6-S2 I.Lyndoch : King Barb• ro!Sa Restaurant a t the Barossa Motel. has pano ra mic views Angaston: Unter Die Laterne Restaurant double. Barossa Motel, phone 64 2014, Truro : Crown Inn Hotel, phone 64 0231 , of Lyndoch Valley and serves German~ at the Wanera H otel, has German foods . bed and breakfast: S9 -Sl8. Vineyard• bed and breakfast: SB .SO-SIS . style dishes. Motel , phone 64 2404, room only: SI 6- Barossa Hotel in Murray Street, counterZur P~tkutsche Re5taurant, cellar-sty le mea ls a vailable and light meals at the $20.50. Wanera Private Hotel, phone decor, has traditi onal German d ishes Ja!IDn Grlll. 64 2132, bed and breakfast: S9 .50-Sl9. and wide selection of wines. Nuriootpa: The Vine Inn and the Angas Lyndoch: Baro!SI Motel, phone 24 4268, There a re several caravan and campingLyndoch Hotel . Counter meals available. Park Hotel in Murray Street and the bed and light breakfast: Sl 8. l5 -S23.95 . parks throughout the Barossa including: Shirt Highway Motel m Kalimna R oad Lyndoch Hotel, phone 24 4211. room Murray Recreation Park at Eden Valley,Jaco bs Creek ( near Rowland Flat): serve meals. only: S7.50-S I5. phone 64 1011 ; Gawler Caravan Park at Welnkeller Restaurant, established in an North Gawler, phone 22 3805; Evanston old wine cellar. serves some Germ an- Truro : The Truro Hotel and the Crown Inn Nuriootpa: Angas Park Hotel, shone Ga rde ns Carava n Pa i: k near Gawler, style di shes. (Full review. see page ?). serve counter meals. Light meals are 62 1050. bed and breakfast: S7.5 -$15 . ,phone 22 2830; Barossa Caravan Park avai lable at Mobil Cafe, Caltex Care near Lyndoch. phone 24 4262; BarossaBethany: Landhaus, a restored cottage, a nd the Golden Grlll. Valley Tourist Park at Nuriootpa, phone caters for private parties of up to 12 for 62 1404; Langmeil Caravan Park near lunch or drnner. Bookings arc essential. Eden Valley: Cou nter meals at the Eden Tanunda, no phone; Tanunda Caravan and Phone 63 2191. Valley Hotel. Tourist Park, phone 63 2784; and Queen Victoria Jubilee Pa rk at Williamstown,Tanund•: Weintal Hotel / Motel has some There are light cafes in most towns such phone 24 6363. Germa n dishes and a tasting room as the Vintage Place and Barossa Cafcs in below for choosing dinner wines. Nuriootpa, Cottage Industr ies in Vine Inn Motel. Rho ne 62 2133. bed a nd Note that rates and other details were Angaston an d the H oneycombe Cafe in correct at time of going to press but arc Die Galleri e in Murray Street. Indoor and Springton . German-type ca kCs are R,\~~~i'.·~~o~~ 5il'itn r~~':,';t o~tsi~ subject to change. Check first . outdoor dinin g with traditiona l German avai lable at bakeries in Greenock , foods and local wines. Nuriootpa, Tanunda, Truro and $18 . 50 . Angaston.Tanunda Hotel in Murray Street, co unter ' meals availab le or at the Valley Hotel. Casual meals at the Golden Fleece Restaurant. WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978 - 2 7

How often have you been to a restaurant and looked ov . wine list not knowing what to choose? So Winestate pr the great restaurant wine review. It's a painless gui the best in restaurant reds and whites. We conducted a survey of a dozen restaurants to find the most popular on their wine lists. We were surprised - some name would expect to see weren't there while some rarer companies appeared occasionally. Obviously some of have been doing their homework. But in general, most popular commercial names are there, like Lindeman Ean, Penfolds Dalwood and Seppelts Moyston claret. Bob Hesketh Peter Lehmann He may not be a househo ld One of the best known word among the average winemakers and judges and wine drinkers, but Bob one of the great characters Hesketh has an impressive 'of the Barossa Vallt:y. He record when it comes to has been chairman of judges wine show judging. He has at the Riverland Wine Show been associated with the since its inauguration in wine industry since 1961, 1972. On the national scene when he jo in ed Industrial he has been a wine judge at Supplies, a serv _ice Adelaide (four years), Perth company, and has been a (t hree yea rs) and Sydney wine judge since 1963, when (one year). He was also he began as an associate chairman at the recent 1978 judge at the Adelaide wine Canberra Wine Show. To show. He has judged at match his enormous heart, SyJney, llrisb<1ne and he loves full bodied dry reds Melbourne and many local and his idea of heaven would shows. Currentl y one of the be a desert island with a pane l of export wine boat-load of reds and a few inspectors, he was chief ports to follow. He is also a judge at the 1972 New great crusader of aged Zealand wine show.. He has whites. spen t con~iderable time overseas while buying for his company. He spent 19 77 in the French wine regions. Watch out for his articles in this magazine. He describes himself as a taxpayer, pilot and mo rtgagee. He likes a ll wine. His hobbies may be up in the ai r, but he is very down to earth about his winetasting.28- WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

the That gave us a start. Then we decided to categorise them triers and not mention the really bad wines. They know·nts in the way you see them in restaurant wine lists, under the who they are.1Iictok headings of riesling, claret, burgundy and white burgundy, for this is a fairly safe guide to matching wines with food . Because we had the wine show judges we had to have thenes same ratings, wine show specifications and points foryou Next came the judging team. That was easy, we reckoned colour, bouquet and palate. Out of 20 points 50 % was thettle pass mark. Any below that are not mentioned. we had the best in Barry, Lehmann & Hesketh. It did1em You will be surprised at the results. Those that drink worry us a little that in fact they might be too good, a bit labels may have to drink again. Others may find theirthe too technical and a bit above the heads of the average favorites have done well. Regardless, the judges have~en person. But we reasoned, in this area we had to have the reviewed these wines to a standard of quality of best. The explanations could come later. After all, that's manufacture. Look at what they say, try the wines again. how gold medals are won and everyone takes notice of learn from their comments. But don't forget, when · those. We decided to give credit to the winners, rate the choosing wines your palate is the final judge. Brian Barry U nd o ubtedl y t he mos t ex peri enced wine j udge in Au strali a. Bri a n Barry has a strin g o f credit s to hi s na me. Chairm an of judges at the las t few win e shows in Adela ide a nd Pert h, he has a t one ti me or other been cha irm a n o f a lm ost eve ry oth er S ta te wine show. He is now precluded fro m being chai rm a n o f th e Sydney , Melbourne a nd Brisbane shows beca use rul es now say ex hi b it ors m ay n ot be a ll owed as chairmen. He takes pride in being the first wi n ema k e r t o wi n th e coveted Jimm y Watso n Trophy fo r a o ne-year-o ld red win e, fro m a n ir rigated a r ea. H e was a l so res ponsible fo r his compa ny of th a t t ime winning the tr op h y fo r t h e m os t outsta nd in g ex hi bit or at the Ca nb e rr a Wi ne S how in 1975. He is now in charge of a la rge wine ry in SA. H e ad m its to dri nking a lot of whites in su mmer, but now th a t wi nte r is close by, he's lick in g hi s li ps a t t he th o ught of th ose bea uti ful aged dry reds. WIN ESTAT E, MAY, 1978 - 29

Thegreat .rreesvti•aeuwrant wine hiteBur undyW INE SH OW SPECIFICATION McWilliam's 1975 Orlando 1975 Bin 75 Chardonnay .............. . .. 18½ 18T2 White Burgundy ........ 18 S hould be in brilliant condition, Beautiful golden colour. Big full Well made style with very goodli gh t to medium straw in colour.Medium to fu ll -bo died and yet chardonnay smokey nose. Plenty of balance on the palate.delicate, with a medium acidity and a flavour, ready to drink now.fresh bouquet. Its aftertaste may be a Yalumba 1976 Pewseyli ttle more pro nounced than in hock Vale Semillon ............... 17½even with a slight bitterness but no Good full wine showing truelingeri ng sweetness. semillon character.Tollana 1975 White Burgundy ... .. ..... . ......... 19 Hardys 1977 Reserve Excell ent style of wine. Strong Bin D402 White Burgundy . . 17½ Very good wine with no apparentcro uchen (Clare riesling) character. faults. Stanley 1976 Clare Ridge White Burgundy ........ ...... 18 Excellent style of crouchen with good balanced palate, fruit is apparent.30-W I NESTAT E, MAY, 1978

The great wi•n eres\aurantreviewStanley 1976 Bin 3 Kaiser Stuhl 1975 Leo Buring 1977 Bin 86 White Burgundy ............. 17½ Chateau Bin L16 White Burgundy . ............. 12 Excellent bal ance on the palate. A White Burgundy ...... . ....... 14 Fruity nose showing lifted muscat Whisper dirty on nose. Bit thin onwell made wine. character. Popular commercial style. palate . Also a trace of H 2S.Orlando 1976 Barossa Otherwise it would have rated Lindemans Kirkton White Burgundy ........ : .. ... 17 higher. Chablis ... ......... ..... ... .. 12 Slight whisper of dirtyness on the Very fruity wine. Again sh owing Penfolds 1976 Bin 700 Hunter Valleynose. But has a first-class palate. Blanquette ........... .. ......... . .. 14 muscat character. A good big full wine, spoilt by slightLindemans 1977 Bin 77 coarseness and flabbyness . It lacks Darenberg 1975 White .......... 12 White Burgundy ............. 16½ acid . H2S spoils this wine. Full Very good wine. Down points a fl avou red , but lacking acid.little through a suggestion of muscatcharacter. Seppelt 1976 Salinger White Burgundy ........................ 13½ This wine was spoilt by H2S. Shows a very hard finish. Quelltaler Chablis ........ . ..... 13 Quite a good wine spoilt by a peculiar nose.Seaview 1977 White Stonyfell 1977 White Burgundy .................... 16 Burgundy .................... 10 Quite a good wine. Fell down a bit Strong nose showing a commonthrough lack of fruit, hence acid fault in 1977.overpowers. Penfolds 1977 Bin 88Saltram l977 Bin 77/ 46 White Burgundy . . .. . .. .. . . .. . 10 White Burgundy .. ... ......... 14 Wine showed poor colour. Quite Quite a good wine. But has a slight brown in fact. Also has a hard finish.off nose. Palate good but a littleunderdeveloped. Houghton 1977 White Burgundy ....... ....... . .... . 10 H 2S spoi ls. Big and coarse. WINESTATE, MAY, 1978- 31

The great wi•neres\aurantreviewRieslin WINE SHOW SPECIFICATION Stanley 1977 Bin 7 Hardys 1977 Reserve rhine riesling .... .. .... .. . . . . 18½ Bin SiegersdorfAustralian dry white hock standard. The first bottle was sligh tly bro wn rhine riesling .. ......... . ..... 18Should be in brilliant condition, pale Nose slightly affected. Warmto light straw in colour, preferably and oxidised ( 14 points). Th e secondwith a slight greenish tinge, light to bottle opened proved to be first-class almost overpowered fruit. Palatemedium bodied , medium to high with excellent fruit a nd bal anced fu ll excellent with fuil flavouracidi ty and yet soft, with a fresh and flavour.flow e ry bouquet and a clean Stanley 1977 Bin 5aftertaste fr ee of bitterness or Rosemounl' 1976 rhine riesling ................. 18lingering sweetness. rhine riesling ........... . . . .. 18½ Very good wine! It is full flavo ured Mature wine. Well made. CleanTollana l 977 wit h a pleasing balance. rhine riesling ................. 19 and crisp and ready to drink now. Big, full a ttractive fruit. Excellent Wolf Blass 1977 rhine riesling ................. 17clean, flavoursome palate. Full fruit with what appears to beQuelltaler 1977 a semillon character on the nose. A rhine riesling . .. ............. 18½ touch sweet, but has good full Firs t-cl ass r h ine riesling . Has flavou r.everything - fruit, acid and balance. R0SHv1OUNT ,! ESTATE . / ,_., ,..;-.l i'dP:iner Riesling Lindemans Bin 23 riesiing .. .. . .. . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 18 ·y,}77 A light delicate attractive wine. ~c$1R~~iA - Palate just lets this wine down a 7U)r0! fraction. A trifle thin.32 -WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

The great w i•nerestaurantreviewRosemount 1977 Southern Vales 1977 Bin 11 Saltram 1977 Bin 77/ 36 traminer riesling . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 rhine riesling ............... . 15½ rhine riesling .. . .. ........... I4½ A big full , fat wine. It has good The first bottle was slightly Wine showing sli~htly affectedfruit and a good sugar balance. oxidised. The second showed good nose. Palate is fresh with a crisp acid full rhine riesling character marred finish .Hardy's 1917 Old Castle by a slight trace of oxidation. Leo During 1977 Bin 33 riesling .................... .16½ Fair colour. Some fruit but a bit McWilliam's 1975 riesling ....... . ... . .. ...... .14½ rhine riesling ............... .15½ The wine has a pleasant palatenondescript. Palate fair . Good Shows some age. First-class, full , with a slightly oxidised nose. A veryacceptable drinker. slight muscat character lifts the fruit warm area wine. Good full palate. taste.Stanley 1977 Spring Gully More a white burgundy style. Yalumba 1977 Pewsey rhine riesling ................. 16 Anyone would be happy to drink it Vale rhine riesling . ......... . . 14 Clean, attractive wine lacking full as a wine, but it could clash with A touch oxidised nose. Palate is some food s. good with a fair fla vour.fruit. The sugar taste lingers a little Penfolds 1977 Bin 231 Rhineon the palate. Orlando 1977 Barossa Riesling .............. . . .. . ..... .._l~ ½ rhine rie!tling .......... . .. . . .14½ The fir st bottle sho wed definite Big! Full ! Slightly coarse with a mould. The second bottle was similar, probably due to a fault y hardish palate. Good commercial cork. drinking wine. 1977 Seaview 1977 rhine riesling ...... . ......... 14½ A very light wine. Lacks volume on the nose. Palate is_full and quite good . Tolleys Pedare 1977 rhine riesling ................ 14½ A fuller style of rhine riesling. It does, however, lack freshness . The acid is also a bit hard. ()rlo1ul,Penfolds 1977 Bin 202 Yalumba 1977 Carte traminer riesling ............. 16 D'or riesling ......... ........ 11 Good fruit. Palate showed a trace Suggestion of filter pulp cha'racter.of mould, but nevertheless still a The wine is flat on the nose andgood drinking wine. palate.Seppelt 1977 Arawatta Woodley's 1971 Queen rhine riesling .................. 151/2 Adelaide riesling . .. .. . . . ........ 11 A fat fu!C wine. It shows a A sweet wine which is a bit flabby.suggestion of muscat on the nose. Suggestion of gordo'grape character.Slightly hard palate. WINESTATE, MA Y , 1978- 33

The great w i•n erestaurantreview eWine s h ow specification. Stanley 1977 Mintaro Wolf Blass 1976 SpaetleseSpecification similar to Australian Moselle ..................... 18½ Rhine Riesling .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 17dry white hock, but with some Very good style of wine, with full Big, full , mature wine with a verysweetness not exceeding one degreebaume. flavour and a very good balance. good, crisp pa late .Brown Bros. 1977 Orlando 1977 Fromms Leo During 1977 Spaetlese Lexia ...... . ....... 19 Spaetlese Riesling ............ 18 Liebfrauwein ......... . . ...... 16 Magnificent sweet, luscious wine. Pale in colour, but showing A good commercial wine. TheA great surprise to see this wine was magnificent fruit. Still a baby and palate is cl ean and in good balance.made from le xia grapes. should develop into a magnificent The muscat apparent lifts the fruitCongratulat10ns! wine . fl avour of the wine.Kaiser Stohl 1977 Spaetlese Lindemans 1976 Bin 11 Rhine Riesling ............. .18½ Moselle .................. .. .. .. . 16 First-class young wine with great A slightly coarse nose with goodcellaring potenti al. Palate is crisp balance on the palate.and in very good balance. 1977 Tollana 1976 Bin TW519 Moselle ......................... 18 First class wine. Almost minty in flavour. Rich and full. Yalumba 1976 Golden Ridge late picking Rhine Riesling ............. . 17½ Excellent full rhine riesling style with good balance on.the palate.34- WT NESTATE, MAY, 1978

The great wi•n eres\aurantreviewLindemans 1977 Yalumba 1977 Renmano 1977 Montessa Ben Ean ..................... 16 Liebchen Moselle ............ 15 Moselle . .. , .. ................ 13 A very good wine with a honeyed The wine shows a slight off Quite an acceptable wine which ischaracter and full flavour. Similar character on the nose which carries slightly marred by a faint offmuscat touch as the previous wine. through to the palate. The wine also character on the nose and palate. has a slightly hard finish .Orlando 1977 Blue Ribbon Orlando 1977 Green Spaetlese Frontignan ........... 16 Seppelt 1977 Muroomba Ribbon Spaetlese Strong, big frontignan which is a Moselle .................. .... 15 Rhine Riesling . .. . .. .. .. .. .. . 10 Quite a good wine which lacks Both bottles opened spoilt byfraction coarse. A full luscious wine. fullness on the palate. For the light faulty corks . Underneath the drinker ! corkiness lurks a good wine. Hardys 1977 Eden Valley Moselle ...................... 14 Has a slight off nose which comes through on the palate.BEN EAN< ,tra. .')pecialMOSELLEStanley 1977 Bin 9 Hamiltons 1977 Spaetlese Rhine Riesling ..... 15½ Ewell Moselle ................ 10 A good wine spoilt by a slight off High S02 spoils this wine. Alsonose character which comes through oxidation apparent.on the palate. Hamiltons 1977 SpringtonBrown Bros. 1977 White Frontignac ............ 10 Milawa Moselle ............. 15 As with the previous wine. Slightly coarse on nose and palate. WINESTATE, MAY, 1978 - ~5A bit thin and palate lackslusciousness .

The great w i•nerestaurantreviewlaretWine show specification: The colour Yalumba 1973 Galway Kaiser Stuhl 1972varies from light to fairly dark ruby Claret .. . .................. . 17½ Vintage Claret ............. . 17½red (excess amber is objectionable). A bit brown in colour, but still a Good elegant wine with cowyardIt should be in brilliant conditionwith light to medium body, fruity very good wine. Light in fruit it is a character. Excellent style with verya r oma balanced with oak firm wine with excellent wood good fruit.characteristics. Medium to high balance.acidity balanced by strong tannin of Quelltaler 1974 San Carlogrape and oak flavour. Claret ....................... 17 Clean and fresh with a firm finishChateau Refnella 1971 Bin 2 Claret ................. 19 on the palate. A very good wine showing Mildara 1973 Bin 42excellent ageing. First-class fruit and Shiraz Cabernet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17elegance. Outstanding in this group Very good wine. Fresh and clean.of wines. Overall a very good drinker.Orlando 1972 Barossa Cabernet .................... 17½ Big warm cuddly wine. Tendingmore to a burgundy style than aclaret style wine. Penfolds 1975 Dalwood Claret ..................... . 17½ A wine with tons of flavour. A good balance of fruit and wood. Saltram 1973 Bin 73/88 Claret ..................... . 17½ Strong mould in first bottle. Second bottle showed excellent flavour. Warm and cuddly.36 - WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

The great wi•nerestaurantreviewSeppelt 1975 Moyston Southern Vales 1974 Darenberg 1974 Claret ..................... . 16½ A fraction appley. Still not bad. Bin 27 Cabernet ............. 16 Shiraz Cabernet .. ..... ...... 15½ A very good wine, with a full A big strong, firm, astringent wineThe flavour is light but pleasing. palate having good fruit with tons of flavour and a suggestionGood commercial drop. characteristics. Shows the faintest of pressings material. Spoilt slightly whisper of volatility. by wood volatility.Leo Buring 1975 Bin 7 Claret ................. 16 Seaview 1974 Cabernet Hardys 1974 Nottage A good fruity , berry wine spoilt by Sauvignon .................... 16 Hill Claret. .................. 15 A good big and full wine. Whatburnt H2S type. The palate shows A touch jammy, but still a goodgood fruit. more can you say? drinking wine. McWilliam's 1974 . ,,.·, ,. Cabernet Sauvignon ........ . 15½ Quite a good wine with a firm ,! clean finish. It shows wood and age ;:1,._ :~J / ',,t 'i:.:;l .f characteristics plus a faint dill character. Hardys 1975 McLaren Vale Hermitage ............. 15½ Big and fat. A typical big SA style. It has good fruit flavour if a little flat , with a whisper of volatility.Mildara 1973 Coonawarra Wynns 1974 Coonawarra Shiraz Cabernet .......... . ... 16 Hermitage ........ . ... . ... . .. 15 A touch flat and oxidised. The Slightly oxidised and volatile onwine has a good soft palate which both the nose and palate.does lack fullness or depth. Houghton 1973Chateau Tahbilk 1972 Cabernet Sauvignon ...... .. . 14½ Cabernet Shiraz .............. 16 Very big. In fact almost oily . Also Faint whisper of volatility, but still a touch porty. A wine for the strong .a big, full warm attractive wine. WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978 - 37

The great wi•neres\aurantreviewBurgundyWine show specification. The colour Yalumba 1972 Galway Lindemans 1973 Bin 50Avaries from light to fairly dark ruby Burgundy ............... .. .. 16½ Burgundy .................. . 15½red (excess amber is objectionable). The first Bottle tasted was corked.It should be in brilliant condition Cowyard characteristic. It is eitherwith medium to full and round body, The second bottle, although slightly a Hunter Valley or McLaren Valesoft perfumed aroma, balanced with mouldy had a big soft fruit palate wine. The palate is slightly unclean,oak maturation. Low acidity with apparent wood character. showing matured H2S.balanced by light grape tannin and Reynella 1973 Vintageoak tannin. It should be smooth and Penfolds 1972 Dry Redround on the middle palate and not HV /SA Bin 333 ......... ... 16½ Reserve Burgundy ............ 15have the astringency of claret. A very good elegant wine. A little A good full·soft wine spoilt slightly by H 2S . A touch bitter, but still aStonyfell 1972 Bin 58 hard on the finish for an ideal good drinking wine. Burgundy ................. .. 17½ burgundy style. Good berry fruit. Almost a French McWilliam's 1974 Specialstyle burgundy. Very elegant palate, Bin Burgundy ................ 14the right style of wine. The wood volatility is evident but acceptable. Because the woodHardys 1975 St. Thomas dominates and the fruit is thin Burgundy .................... 17 overall, the wine tends more to a Slightly appley, yet a touch porty. claret style. Kaiser Stuhl 1970 ReserveA good clean and light wine if atouch thin. Bin Burgundy ................ 12 Slightly oxidised. The palate tends to portiness. Still, an acceptable drinker. Stanley 1976 Manoora Burgundy .............. . ... . 15½ A young wine. Faintest whisper warm. Rich but a bit too flabby. Angoves 1970 Burgundy ....... 15½ A good wine even though the palate was a little soapy. A whisper oxidised.38 - WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978

WHITE BURGUNDY COLOUR J U DG ING POINTS AWARD ED REC OMMEND E D & CLA RITY RETAIL PRICES BOU Q U ET PALAT E TOTAL•TOLL ANA 1975 W HITE BURGUNDY .... . ... . ..... . ......................... ... . . 3 2.40 McW IL LIAMS 1975 C HARDONNAY .. .... ........... .. ................ . ........ .. 3 6.5 9.5 19 2.21 STANLEY 1976 C LARE RIDGE WHITE BURGUNDY ............ .. .. .... . ...... . 3 6.5 9 18.5 2.35 O RL ANDO 1975 BIN 75l8T2 WHITE Bl' RG UN DY . . .. ... .. .... . ... . ............ .. 3 6 9 18 3.40 YALUMBA 1976 l'ENSEY VALES EM ILLON . .. .... .. . .... . ... . ..... . ............ . 3 6 9 18 3.10 HAR DYS 1977 BIN 0402 WHITE Bl.RG UN DY ............................ ... ... .. 3 6.5 8 17.5 2.98 STANLEY 1976 BIN 3 WHITE BURGU\"IDY ........... ............... .. .. ........ .. 3 6 8.5 17.5 3 .25 ORLANDO 1976 BA ROSSA WHITE BU RGUNDY .. ................. .......... . .. . 3 6 8.5 17.5 3.06 LINDEMANS 1977 81\"1 77 WHITE BURGUNDY .. ......... .......... . .......... .. 3 4.5 9.5 17 2.40 SEA Vi EW 1977 WHITE BURG UN DY .......... ...... ........ ......... ... .......... . 2.5 5 8.5 16.5 3.20 SALTRAM 1977 BIN 77 / 46 WHIT E BU RGL:\",OY .............. .. .......... ....... . 3 5.5 8 16 2.89 KAISER STUHL 1975 CHATEAU BIN Ll6 WHITE BURGUNDY ...... . .... .. 3 5 6 14 2.40 PEN FOLDS 1976 HU:-,/TER VALLEY OLA 'IQ UETTE .... .. ............. .. ..... . .. 3 4 7 14 2.34 SEPPELT 1976 SA LINGER WHITE BURGUNDY ................................ . 3 4 7 14 2.40 QUELLTALER CHABLIS ....... ................ ................. .... .. . ........... .. 3 4 6.5 13.5 1 .21 LEO DURING 1977 BIN 86 WHITE BURGUNDY ..... .... .... .......... .......... . 3 3.5 6.5 13 2.86 LIND EMANS KIRKTON CHABLIS ...... .. ...................... .. ........... ... ... 3 3.5 5.5 12 1.90 DARENBERG 1975 WHITE DARENBERG ....... ......... .... ...... .... .. ........ . 3 3.5 5.5 12 2.20 STO NY FELL 1977 WHITE BlJRGlJNOY .... .. ..... .............. ... ............. .. 3 3 6 12 2.43 HOt:GHTO'I 1976 WHITE BURGUN DY ......................................... .. 3 3 4 10 2.50 PEN FOLDS 1977 BIN 88 WHITE BURGUNDY ........... .. .... . ....... ........... . I 3.5 3.5 10 2.22 3.5 5.5 10RIESLING 3 2.40 3 6.5 9.5 19 3.60 TOLLANA 1977 RHINE RIESLING ...... . ...... . .. ... ..... .. .... ................. .. 3 6.5 9 18.5 2.88 STANLEY 1977 BIN 7 RHINE RIESLING ...................... . ................. .. . 3 6.5 9 18.5 1.95 ROSEMONT 1976 RHINE RIESLING .............. .......... . .. ................... . 3 6.5 9 18.5 2.40 QUELLTALLER 1977 RHINE RIESLING .............................. .. ... ...... .. 3 6.5 8.5 18 3.95 LIND EMANS 1977 BIN 23 RIE SLING .................... ........ .. ..... ..... ...... . 3 6 9 18 3.60 HAR DYS 1977 S IEGERSDORF RHI NE RIESLING ....... . ...... .. ............... . 3 6.5 8.5 18 3.20 STANLEY 1977 BIN 5 RHINE RIESLING ....... .. ......... ... .. .................. .. 3 5.5 8.5 17 2.54 WOLF BL ASS 1977 RH INE RIESLING ........... ............... .......... ........ . 2.5 6 8 17 1.59 ROSEMONT t977 TRAM INER RIESLING ..................... ... .. .. .. . ......... . 3 5.5 8.5 16.5 2.40 H AR DYS 1977 OLD CASTLE RIESLING ................ . .. ..... ..... ............ .. 3 6 7 16 3.08 STANLEY 1977 SPRING GULLY RHINE RIESLING ............................ .. 3 6 7 16 1.40 PENFOLDS 1977 BIN 202 TRA\111',ER RIESLING ......................... ...... . 3 5 7.5 15.5 2.59 SE PP ELT 1977 ARAWATTA RI ESLl\"IG .... . ..................................... .. 3 5.5 7 15.5 1.21 SOUTHERN VALES 1977 RHI J',;E RIESLING ........... .................. , ...... .. 3 4.5 8 15.5 2.97 McWILLI AMS 1975 RHl'\/E RI ESLl'\/G .. .. ...... . ..... ... ..... .. ......... .. ....... . 2.5 5 6.5 U.5 3.20 ORLANDO 1977 BA ROSSA RHl :-,/E RIESU G ............ ..... ................. .. 3 4 8 14.5 2.22 S EA VIEW 1977 RHl'IE RIESLI NG ..................................... . ......... .. 3 4 7.5 14.5 3.26 TOLLEYS PEDARE 1977 RHI E RIESLING ................................ .. ... .. 3 4 7.5 14.5 2.50 SALTRAM 1977 RHI NE RIESLING .......................................... ...... . 2 4.5 7 14.5 3.20 LEO BURl\"IG 1977 81\"133 RHI NE RIESLING .. .. .. ......... .. . ... .... .......... .. 3 4 8 14 2.37 YAL UM BA 1977 PEWSEY VALE RHINE RIE S ING ................... .. .... .. .. .. 2.5 4 5.5 11.5 2.25 PE NFOLDS 1977 BIN 231 RHINE RIESLI NG .. ....... .. .... ......... .... ........ .. 3 4 4.5 11 2.95 YA LUM BA 1977 CARTE DOR RIESLING .. ..................... .. ....... ........ .. 3.5 4.5 11 WOOD LEYS 1977 QUEEN ADELAIDE RIESLING .... . ......................... .. 3 3 6.5 9.5 19 2.28MO SELLE 3 3.50 3 6 9.5 18.5 2.40 BROW BROSl977SPAETLESELEXIA .. .. .......... .... ...... ...... . ......... .. 3 2.50 KAI SER STU HL 1977 S PAETLESE RHINE RIESl.l\"IG .... .. .......... ... ...... .. 3 6.5 9 18.5 2.40 STANLE\ 1977 Ml TARO MOSELLE ..... .. .............. . ...................... . 3 2.50 ORL ANDO 1977 FROM MS SPAETLESE RIESLING ........ . .................... . 3 6 9 18 3.50 TOLLANA 1976 BI N TW5l9 MOSELLE ................................ ........ . .. . 3 2.40 YA LUMBA 1976 GOLDEN RIDG E RIESLING .. ..... .... .. .............. .. ....... . 3 6.5 8.5 18 1.95 WOLF BL ASS 1976 SPAETLESE RHINE RIESLING ................ ... .... .. .... . 3 2.40 LE0-81 :.RING 1977 LIEBFRA UW EIN ....... .. . ........................... ..... , .. . 3 5 9.5 17.5 3.98 UND EMANS 1977 BEN EAN MOSELLE .................. .. .... ...... .. ......... .. 3 3.60 U NDE'\,IA\"IS 1976 Bl'l II MOSELLE ...... . .......... .. .......... ... ............. . 3 5 9 17 2.95 ORLANDO 1977 BL UE RIBBON SPA ET LESE t\"RONTIGNAN ......... ........ .. 3 1.90 STANLEY 1977 81'1 9 SPAETLESE RIESLl'iG ......................... .. .. ..... .. 3 5 8 16 2.40 BROW N BROS . 1977 MILANA MOSELLE .............. .............. ... .... .... .. 3 5 8 16 2.59 YALUMBA 1977 LIEBCHE'I MOSELLE ......... . .... ...... ......... .. . ... ...... .. 3 1.86 SEPPELT 1977 MUROOMBA MOSELLE ...... ...................... .......... .. .. 2 4.5 8.5 16 4.10 HARDYS 1977 EOE\"I VALLEY \IOSELLE. ....................... .. ............. .. 3 2.35 RE NMANO 1977 MONTESSA MOSELLE ................. ............ . ........... . 6 7 16 3.00 ORLANDO 1977 GREEN RIBBON S PA ETLESE RHINE RIESLING ....... .. . .. 3 4.5 8 15.5 l·IAMILTONS 1977 EWELL MOSELLE ........ .. ... . ....................... . ...... . 3 HAMIi.TONS 1977 SP RII\ GTO\"I WHITE FRO'ITIGNAN ......... . .... . .. .. .. .. . 2.5 5 7 15 3CLARET 3 4.5 7.5 15 3 REY NELLA 1971 81\"12 CLARET .................................................. .. 3 4.5 7.5 15 ORLANDO 1972 BA ROSSA CABERNET ....... . ...... .. ..... ... .. .... .. ....... .. .. 3 YAL UM BA l973GALWAYCLARET .. ...... .. .. .. ... . .. ...... . .......... ....... .. .. 3 4 7 14 3~,~~:::~{-t:n ~~;; .PENFOLDS 1975 DAL WOOD CLARET ............ ....... .. ........ . ,............. . 3 4 6 13 w~~ ~\~!tIRiT·::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::'.:: 3 3 3 4 IO QUELLTALER l974SAN CARLO CLARET ............. .. ....... .. ............... . 3 MILDA RA 1973 BI N 42 SHIRAZ CABERNET ................................... .. 2.5 3 5 10 SEPPELT 1975 MOYSTO'< CLARET . ........................... .. ....... ... .. .. .. 3· LEO BURI NG 1975 BI', 7 CLARET .... ...... ........... .. ........ .. ........ .. . .. .. .. 3 3 4 10 \1IL D.i.RA 1973 COONAW.\RR.\ SHIRAZ ( ABER'-ET .... ...... ..... .... .... .. 3 CHATEAl' TAHBILK 1972 CABER:',ET SH IR AZ .... ........................... .. 3 6.5 9.5 19 2.07 SOUTH ERN \ .ALES 1974 C\"' BER'IFT . .... .. .... ... ............ ... ..... .. ... .. .. 3 3.43 SEA \IIEW 1974 CABERJ\ET SALIVIG'ION . ........... .. . . ............. .. ........ .. 6 8.5 17.5 2.25 M,•WILUAMS 1974 CABER:-IET SAUVIG:-10\"1 .... .. .. . ......................... . 3 6 9 17.5 2.01 H AR DYS 1975 McLAREN \'ALE HERMITAGE ......................... ... ..... .. 3 5.5 9 17.5 2.57 DAREN BERG 1974 SH IR AZ CABER\"IET .... . .. ........... ...................... .. 3 6 8.5 17.5 2.30 H AR DYS 1974 NOTTAGE HILL CLA REf ........... ......... ...... ............... . 3 2.30 WYN NS 1974 COONAWARRA HERMITAGE ............ . .... . ................. .. . 3 6 8.5 17.5 3.15 HO UG HT ON 1973 CABERNETSA UVIGNON ............................ ... ..... . 3 2.40 3 5.5 8.5 17 2.50BURGUNDY 3 3.25 3 6 8 17 2.45,STQNYFELL 1972 81:S. 58 BURGUNDY ..... .. .................................. .. 3 3.35 HAR DYS 1975 ST. THOMAS BU RG UNDY ........................ ............. .. .. 5.5 8 16.5 4. 15 YAU JMBA 1972 GALWAY BURGUNDY .......................................... . 1.65 !'ENFOLDS 1972 DR\ RED. H U/ SA. BIN 333.. ........ .. ........................ .. 5 8.5 16.5 1.59 ANGO\IES 1970 BURGUN DY .............. . ..................... .. ..... ............ . 2.30 STA NLEY 1976 MA\"IOORA BURGUNDY .......... .. .... ... .. .... ............... .. 6 7 16 3.43 LI N DEMANS 1973 81\"1 SOA BURG UNDY .................................... .. .. .. 2.90 REYNELLA 1973 VINTAGE RESERVE BURGUNDY ... .. .................. .... .. 5.5 7.5 16 2.65 McW IL LIAMS 1974 SPECIAL BIN BURGUNDY .............. .... .............. . . KA ISER STU H L 1970 RESE RVE BI N BU RG t.::-,/D\' ...... . ... ... ........... .. ... .. 5 8 16 5.5 7.5 16 5.5 7.5 15.5 5 7.5 15.5 5 7.5 15.5 5 7 15 6 6 15 5 6.5 14.5 6 8.5 17.5 2.35 6 8 17 2.59 NOTE: These wines have been 2.25 judged under stringent Na tional 6 7.5 16.5 1.25 Wine Show conditions. II should 3.00 be emphasised' that the opinions of 5.5 8 16.5 1.57 the judges do not necessaril y 2.40 5 7.5 15.5 2.50 conform to popular consumer 3.10 5.5 7 15.5 taste. All the wi nes mentioned are 3.20 acceptable drinking wines for the 5.5 7 15.5 consumer. 6 6 15 4.5 6.5 14 3 6 12 WINESTATE,.MAY, 1978- 39

The great Best winerreesvti•aeuwrant wineOur first great restaurant wine The winners included the Tollana claret group it was lucky to be in thereview certainly resulted in some twi ns, the 1975 white burgundy and judging. When our judging samplessurprises. Some extremely popular 1977 rhine riesling. An outstanding didn't arrive in time we bought acommercial win es received the result in this judging (and theirthumbs down from the judges, but moselle wine featured well too). The bottle from the local, albeit an olderthey are commercial because people Brown Bros. Milawa 1977 Spaetlese wine. We wanted to review all thelike them, so obviously t he judges' Lexia topped the moselle class. This wines on our sample wine list. Thedecisions aren ' t always final. On the wasn't surprising as it had done burgundy winner was the 1972other hand it was also very gratifying ext remely well in other wine shows Stonyfell burgundy. This may be ato see other , ofte n despised previously. In the reds the claret surprise to interstaters , but wecommercials doing so well against all awa rd went to the 1971 Reynella Bin weren't surprised as this range hascomers. 2 cla ret. The outstanding wine of the been consistently good over th e years.The great Best valuerestaurant winerevi•ew BEN EAN MOSEI, Lf: U,Al lET A comparison of points awarded the rh ine riesling class and that was availability of that vintage year. As ato each wine with its recommendedretail price g ives some very the 1977 Tollana Rhine Riesling. At very strong commercial propositionilluminating results which should be $2.40 it was impossible to beat. The we therefore chose the ever reliableof value to the consumer and winecompany, alike. It is difficult to know Lindemans Bin 23 Riesling, with the Penfolds Dalwood Claret. At awhat a wine is worth , and this type ofguide certainly helps. sa me price, was also great value for recommended retail price of $2 .01 In the white burgundy cl ass the top money . · this wine has to be one of the bestthree point scorers, the Tollana andStanley white burgund ies and the Of the sweet whites we liked the buys on your wine list.McWilliam 's chardonnay, all were price of the Brown Bros. Spaetleseoutstanding value. We fina lly chose There were a number of best buysthe chardonnay as a good valuepremium varietal at $2.21 it is very Lexi a, but for all round drink ability in our burgundy wine list. Thegood buying. One wine stood out in the Lindemans Ben Ean was a Stonyfell, Hardys, St. Thomas40-WINESTATE, MAY, 1978 winner. There were some very good Yalumba Galway and Penfolds 1972 va lue wines in this group. •Dry Red were all good value wines. In the claret class we were As our value special we chose a astounded at the price of the cheapie, the Stanley 19761 Manoora Reynella 1971 Bin 2 Claret. The only Burgundy at $1.57. it is very hard to beat. ,· t hing that worried us was the

Winetasting Skip this page if you know all- about wines. It is the first in a practical series that will take the common or garden drinker to being a person surrounded with the confidence of knowing what they like and why. Step one: why bother?So you've drunk more wine over the last few years than denominator of wine tasting people, they are also by farwould fill Penfold's largest storage tank. Does that makeyou a good wine taster? Not necessarily. the largest group of wine drinkers. Loosely, this group of people have either just begun You see, wine tasting is a bit of an art. It may also be abit of a science but that part is too boring so we'll leave drinking wine or else have drunk wine for many years,that for the moment. but have just never really thought much about it. Their tasting ability is fairly limited. They see wines in terms of The art side of wine tasting doesn't refer to the wine extremes. Thus a wine is either \"yuk or great, awful orsnobs, the arty-farties who drink labels rather than wine. beaut\". Generally no reasons are given why, other than,They can be dismissed with the wave of an empty wine \"I just like/hate it\". A few on the fringe of this groupglass. And, any way, they wouldn't be buying a wine may begin to l:alk about the \"sharpness\" or \"fullness\" ofmagazine, would they? a wine. It is about wine and people enjoying themselves. We This largest group of wine consumers is sometimesdiscuss wine because we are sensuous people. We tastewine because it is a part of the good life. We discuss wine neglected or even ignored by wine educationalists. Itas a communication with others. appears that the attitud~ is \"We'll teach the~~ bi~,abol!t Could you imagine tasting a beautiful wine (or food for wine, but not too much m case they get too cntJcal . Thisthat matter) and not have anyone to describe it to? What short-sighted attitude results in consumers' finding outindescribable torture. No wonder some people end up about wine themselves (often incorrectly) or going offtalking to themselves. wine altogether, rather than plead ignorance in a socially competitive environment. If you forget the human side of wine tasting, then nomatter how outstanding your knowledge of wine, you It is more important to teach people honestly aboutbecome a bore to others and probably yourself. Don'tforget that. If your friends are average they won't be wines, that there are good years and bad years and thatlistening to your profound review of a wine. They might not every wine is a premium drop. Otherwise theeven be too busy preparing their own review for you to credibility of the winemakers and marketers will fall . Insuffer. the Jong term wine companies must prosper or fall by the quality of their wines. That is also what wine tasting is With that spark, we can begin. To learn about wine wemust get our priorities ri~ht. How often have you heard about.someone talk about a wine's origin, even down to theslope of the vineyard it was grown on . God forbid! They The so-called middle range of wine tasters have begunhaven't even discussed the wine's quality yet. to learn what a wine is made of. They talk of tannin and The point is this. Does it look, taste and smell good? Ifit does why? If it doesn't why not? Having asked yourself acid and fruit and alcohol and of course, the balance ofthat question work downwards from there. all of these. This is probably the most important stage of The actual description of aromas and tastes is not easybut over the next 12 months Winestate will bring you a wine evaluation. Our ideal wine taster hes in this area.sip-by-sip description of how you too can become anexpert wine taster, astound your friends and most At this stage we are getting to grips with the things thatimportant, get the key to the door of that fabulous winecellar your rich uncle has been keeping from you for make a good wine. Learning these wine words and howyears. they apply will come later. Future articles in this series. Before we open the first bottle let's look at whatcategory of wine taster you fall into. will mention commercial wines that have the First, we have the \"I don't know much about wine but characteristics under discussion so you can buy one, readI know what I like\" group. The lowest common the magazine and be an ~rmchair taster. The third group of wine tasters are a very critical group, indeed! They have learned that there are wine faults. They know about things like oxidation, volatility, H2S and excess SO2. These things make wines bad and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. _ At the extreme of this group are the technical talkers, - the winemakers, laboratory assistants and wine judges. This area involves complicated chemical terms and should generally be left to the technical people (some of whom may have forgotten how to enjoy wine anyway). It WINESTATE. MAY. 1978 -41

Winetasting continued is sufficient for our ideal winetaster to be able to detect, HENSCHKE say, a non-vinous, chemical character on the rare 1-'fl~M IFl-l ()lJAUTY occasion it occurs. _ Back to the beginner. Are you still there? Goo~. After , \ Hll'-,(111..1 ,\ CO 1-.I , , I In, . ~ \ that last bit we promise not to get too heavy again, for a PRODUCE OF AUSTRALIA while yet. Let' s first look at what wine is. A common definition 150 ml goes like this: \"win_e is the beverage I?r<;>duced by ~he 4 SILVER MEDALS 3 BRONZE MEDALS alcoholic fermentation of the fresh JUiee from npe Renowned port specialists are proud to announce the release of grapes .\" WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? ten award-winning old ports in magnificent presentation cartons. Wine is an alcoholic drink and it is made from grapes. When grape juice ferments the result is alcohol (and Old Liqueur Port - Vintage 1933 wine). Incidentally, when we talk of \"wine\" we really David Jones Trophy winner and gold medal mean the end result of fermented grape juice. If another Canberra National Wine Show 1975 (Museum Class 52). Gold medal Canberra National Wine type of fruit (e.g., apples) is used to make an alcoholic Show 1976 (Museum Class 84). dnnk it must have the fruit prefix, i.e., apple wine. Only 131 bottles of this wine will ever be released and each Wine is a very complex drink. (Otherwise they couldn't bottle is numbered , wax sealed and stamped. The 131 bottles write magazines about it). Scientists estimate that a glass represent I bottle for each year since establishment. Price $3 per of wine contains over 400 known constituents and many bottle. more unknown . We may not be able to bring you all of these but in the next few issues we will describe the OLD TAWNY PORT important ones. Twenty-five per cent Vintage 1933 as above and 75 per cent specially selected wood aged ports. NEXT MONTH: How to prepare yourself for a wine This blended wine received a Diploma of Quality and Origin tasting. at the Barossa Valey Wine Show 1977 (Class 44, Section B). Open a Only 1,847 bottles of this wine available in numbered bottles at $50 per bottle. ' vintage white COLLECTORS' ITEMS OF DISTINCTION from For further informatin write to Bruce Hoffmann, Box 37, South Australia's Tanunda, 5352 or phone (085) 63 2083. first vineyard42 -WINESTATE, MA'( 1978 family. HAMILTON'S EWELL MOSELLE Fine,fresh and fruity. Slightly sweet, with adelicate dry finish. •! HAMILTON'S It'slight, EWELL/MQSELLE so right for/ 49th \ \" \"'\" I Y1Nr•c1 I GL£~1lG .•i.t\l'fyARO .,-.J!>IE \ ~ Y[AR / ~1Jllll\l1·1•· ,~s:i .1q1\"/ dining out. ' 100HH> l MlTTll;;--t;--H:::;lllO~ 'S l •ln ;;~-~l/C~1°o;-~~~ii~,·,; 1soml Tonight? MKC 8597

\"No recipe is any use unless you By PETER WALLknow the particular trick of thatparticular dish. \" coo king, the better the resulting dish the extreme west coast of the island · is not, necessarily correct. is made like a sweet sherry with local - Hillaire Belloc sweet fortified wine and mosto cotto W ine to me is an almost (lit. baked must) which is boiledC oo k ing . Wi ne. What thoughts miraculous vehicle for subtle flavors. gral?.e juice. The Australian version iscome to mind with those two words? It's alcohol and acid, which are at similar, but also has a small quantityI think immediately of lonely ladies higher levels than in most food stuffs, of herb infusion.of mature yea rs buying their daily give wine a unique ability to hold itsration of \"cooking sherry.\" flavors for quite a long time. These Scaloppine al marsala fla vors, however, are surprisingly 450g thinly sliced veal This association is a residue of a strong and the choice of the right 100g buttershort stint some 20 years ago in a wine for a dish is, I suggest, quite salt, pepperbusy pub \" bottle-o\" in Sydney. subtl e. To illustrate the point, juice of ½ lemon consider three dishes . 50ml marsala The mountain of trifle which floursuppo sedl y lay behind t heir Scaloppine al marsala. I suppose 50ml chicken stockpurchases never really caught my we have all tasted this dish in one 70ml creamimagination. The other associations for m or another. I have enjoyed itI do retain are more important to Cut the thinly sliced veal intothis article. These still exist today in often, but only once in Italy, in pieces about 70mm square. Beat allthe concept that there are lesser Bologna a few years ago, and it was pieces out thinly, season with salt,quality, cheaper wines, which a re d ifferent from my Australian pepper and lemon juice and dred~emore than adequate fo r cooking. ex perience. them in flour. Brown them quickly m The suggestion that the better, Marsala from its Sicilian origin on WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978- 43nore expensive the wine used for

Cooking continued chicken stock fire. Finish with 100ml of cream and garlic spoon into previously warmed vol aua thick pan with about lO0g of vent cases. Serve immediately.butter, then add the marsala and 6 small mushroomschicken stock . Allow the sauce to butter, white pepper, salt The trick of this recipe is siml)lYreduce slightly, making sure that all the champagne. Try the same dishthe liquid ingredients are thick white veloute sauce prepared with, say, chablis and theamalgamated to a smooth 120ml cream difference is extraordinary .consistency. Finish the sauce just Classically, champagne and chablisbefore serving with 50ml of cream. 6 medium vol au vent cases are made from pmot grapes so the Bone out the breast from the raw I can enjoy this dish with differences are subtle. In AustraliaAustralian or Italian wine, but the chicken and cut to a 5mm dice. Shell the pinot grapes are not so readilydifference in the wine is enough to the green prawns which should yield available, but here also, themake the two dishes completely about half their original weight. Dice differences in origins are slight indifferent. Also, the quantity of wine these to about the same size as the comparison to the obviousused needs to be adjusted for the chicken. Quickly saute the chicken in differences in the bottled wines.extra flavor in the Australian wine. a little butter. Add two wine glassesThe adjustment is subtle, three- of champagne and half that amount The moral I draw is: If you seekquarters or seven-eigths is a ratio of chicken stock and add the prawns. the nuances which have made somewhich could be near enough, but the Quickly poach them for about a dishes famous for two or threeconcept is the important point. minute. hundred years, stick to the wine specified or try to get as close as you Having been alerted to the It is important that the flesh of the can, as illustrated in this recipe:differences, the cook might choose prawns is merely \"set. \" If they are Boeuf a la Bourguignonnethe correct ratio, using taste and cooked too long they will become 1kg of full-flavored beefsmell, which matches the subtlety of rubbery. Strain off and save the 2 tablespoons olive oilthe differences involved. As an cooking liquid from this operation 60g baconexcercise, try the above recipe using and put the chicken and prawns aside salt and freshly ground black pepperoloroso or a brown sherry to on a warm plate. In a separate pan, 1 large onionapproach the original Italian dish in saute six small diced mushroom caps thyme, parsleycharacter. and a half a clove of garlic and a 2 bay leaves little butter. And so to example number two: Set the mushrooms aside and add the 150ml red wineVol au vent Isabelle de France cooking liquid from the first 300ml beef stock1 young chicken operation to the mushroom liquor 2 cloves garlic350g green prawns and reduce it by half. Then add 1 tablespoon flourchampagne 150ml of veloute sauce, the chicken, 200g small mushrooms prawns and mushrooms, bring the lot I0 small onions to a gentle simmer and take off theBAROSSAIIOTEL·LYIDOCB The Barossa Motel at the gateway to the Barossa Valley offers all modern comforts in the most pleasant and peaceful surroundings. Air-conditioned single and family units all at ground level allow parking at your door. The main swimming pool and the children's pool are set in attractive lawns and gardens. The fully licensed rP..,;ta11rant offers excellent cuisine and commands a panoramic view of the lush Lyndoch Valley and the Barossa Ranges. (085) 24 426844-WINESTATE, MAY, 1978

f?A11~ fy1argaret Kirkwood. Top Au strali a n Cordon Bleu Instructor.How long would it take you to cookthis classic Coq au Vin?\"My Simpson Microwave Oven cooked it tope.rfection in just 20 minuters-\"-. -M--a-r-g-a-r-e-t -K-i-r-k-w-o-o-d-.------, FREE RECIPES''With a Simpson Microwave Oven, To: Margaret Kirkwood. Box 2238, GPO, Adelaide, SA. 5001 .classical gourmet dishes can beprepared in minutes - not hours. NAME ........ . .. ... . . ..... . . ..... ..... .. . .Superb dishes like Filet Mignon Rossini are ready to ADDRESS . .. ......... . . .......... ......... . .. .,erve in just eight minutes. Gratin de Poisson can be;ooked in four minutes. ... . ..... . .... ·. ......... POST CODE . . . . . . . .I've proved it. § !!e-:l!,~!9a!!If you' re interested in this exciting new way to cook, L _ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -~- - ,,_,i mply fill in the coupon and post it to me. I'll send you WINESTATE, MA Y, W \"/8 -- 45nore details and some selected gourmet recipes by returnnail.\"

Cooking continued butter in which you have previously but this introduces other undesirable coo_ked .th~ bacon. At the end of the differences. l use half of a more I have used most cuts of beef for m~m dish s cooking period, add the neutral-aged white wine and half anthis dish, ranging from rump to shin omons, the bacon and the whole a~ed Australian burgundy-style washed mushroom caps and cook for wme.run:It is important that the meat be a further half-hour. In the same vein as the above, andflavored, although reasonably If a bottle of Pommard Clos Blanc to leave you at the correct end of thetender. ~f t~e meat. is too tough, a lot or Volnay Fremiet is not available menu, try zabaglione with brownof _cookmg_ 1s required, giving a very try to select a suitable Australia~ sherry and ~ \"drop\" of old brandy asstnngy fimshed dish. wme. ~n alternative to marsala, the recipe 1s: Cut the meat into pieces, about The dish is one of my pet50mm square and 6mm thick and \"peeves.\" Australian shiraz dry reds Zabaglioneplace in a dish with a marinade ~f the are often the best table wines 6 egg yolkslarge sliced onion, the herbs, olive oil produced in a vintage, but this is no 150g sugarand wine. Two or three hours should guarantee that they will make the 170ml marsala be sufficient for the wine and the best boeuf Bourguignonne. In my I teaspoon grated rind of lemon meat to come to terms with each often peeved opinion, they may not. pinch of cinnamon other, although an hour longer in the However, in these days of surplus 170ml whipped cream winter would do no harm. grapes, when many Australian dry reds are shiraz, there is a good Beat the egg yolks and sugar in the Dry the pieces and brown them in chance of having one close at hand to cold top of a double boiler until they a pan in which you have previously use as \"burgundy\" for this dish . are light and frothy. Add all mel~ed one tablespoon of butter. ingredients except the cream. Place Sprinkle the flour over them and stir So there can be no t~e top o~er the hot water pan on the well, so that all the butter is misunderstanding, I would never fire, ~akmg sure the bottom pan is absorbed. Pour into the pan the suggest you can achieve, say, a kept Just under the boil. Beat and strained marinade. Bring this to the Pommard by blending an Australian cook until the zabaglione is swollen boil and add the stock. Add parsley shiraz with an Australian white light and even, then remove from th~ and bay leaf,_ crushed cloves of garlic burgundy, but for this dish, the boiler and continue to beat until an? cover with a closely fitting lid. fullness of some Australian dry reds cool. Gently fold in the whipped Bnng the lot to a gentle simmer and needs to be tempered. It could be er.earn and chill. Serve garnished allow to cook for two hours. done by simple dilution with water, with fresh or glaced fruit. Glaze the small onions in a Bon Appetit. separate pan with a little more of the~Jl)ie aclnstube PRIVATE SALE•. IN THE FAMOUS \"THE /PANA,,•f!l:l ~ BAROSSA VALLEY 31 FT. RIVER BOAT 111111 between Nuriootpa and Tanunda $9~400 O.N.O. THE ORIGINAL HOME OF BUS. 296 5077. PRIVATE (085) 56 3142 FINE GERMAN It's a great lifestyle spending /iesurely days on the .COOKING Murray in your own river boat. Thousands of dollars have been spent on the lpana to bring it up to its AND present condition. Just look at these features: EXCELLENT e COMPLETELY OVERHAULED AND RE-CAULKED e ALUMINIUM SEAFOODS WINDOWS e ELECTRIC SINK AND BILDGE PUMP e LARGE FULLY ENCLOSED CABIN WITH LOWERED FLOORS e BUNKS FORWARD LET YOUR HOST AND MIDSHIP e GAS FRIDGE AND STOVE e SEP. MARINE TOILET e STERN SUNWELL WITH SEATS e WEATHER HOEST BOETTGER PROTECTED STEERING FROM CABIN e JARRAH HULL WITH TEMPT YOUR PALATE WITH HIS SPECIAL HEAVY MARINE PLY e RAILED DECKING ALMOST FULL LENGTH BAROSSA DISHES AND COMPLETE OF VESSEL e UNSINKABLE FIBREGLASS DINGHY. SELECTION OF LOCAL AND IMPORTED WINES, BEERS AND LIQUEURS. e PARTIES e WEDDINGS e FUNCTIONS BOOK INGS RING NURIOOTPA 62 141646 ·-· VI •ii\"STATE, MAY, 1978

t.Chewing over the cheddar . . . first of a series by David fine old rinded cheddars are making these cheeses a thing of the past.Smith on cheese, that most natural of partners for wines. Southern Farmers is still producing some, and it is to be hoped theyBecause of the large amount of Basically this is so. However, in continue making the \"king\" ofcheddar consumeq and the infi nite recent times, flavo urs have been Australian cheddars.variations of the product, it gets introduced \"a la\" George Yoannidis,pride of place in this inaugural with his Eight Mile Creek range of Kraft has, for economical reasons, flavours - caraway, smoked, garlic. ceased producing the round Mil-lelcolumn. These cheeses are very young and, and found ft more expedient to bulk Like most well-known cheeses of like all natural cheese, the flavour produce an~ ship to Melbourne for would tend to grow out as the cheesethe world , it takes its name fro m its matured. maturing. I can ' t help but feelplace of origin. something has been lost in this Natural cheddar can be likened to cheese as a result. It is my experience Of the English cheeses that have the very best treatment experienced that the texture and flav our of M il-survived to take their place among by the very best red wine - the care le! is a shadow of the cheese that wasthe great cheeses of the world, there and attention is the same and the once produced there.are no fewer than a dozen. The most maturing process is carefullypopular and widely-consumed is the watched for a considerable time. One of the difficult things togreat Cheddar from the county of accomplish with a good maturedSomerset in the village of Cheddar, Mild (cheddar) is six .to 12 weeks cheddar is , consistency. There are old; semi-matured is three to six many factors: the time of the year;in the West Country. months; matured eight t o 12 months the ·quality of ,th e m ilk; t he Traditiona lly, the farm er or _and vintage class 12 to 24 months. cheesemaker; the starter culture; heat; maturing and demand.labourer made \" common cheese\" for Cheddar generally will not hanghis own consumption , a low-fat on for 24 months without becoming a With the superb techn icalskimmed milk cheese which turned equipment and know-how, a lot ofhard and crumbly. But there were crumbling mass. How ever, these inconsistencies have beenothers who made \"show -milk\" occasionally an exceptional cheese is minimised . However, one factor th atcheeses, called \"rich cheese\" - a made, the texture of which is in very I have found greatly to influenceluxurious golden variety sold to the good condition at this advanced age.local gentry in the manor house or inthe nearby town.. I can recall some rinded cheddars from the old Amscol factory at I have found that many people Victor Harbor, about two years oldbelieve cheddar comes in a blue pack and in superb co nd it ion .and is only made by Kraft - what Unfortunately, the cost of producingthey are really saying is \" processedcheddar\" . The styles are natural cheddar -which is available as mild cheddar orsemi-matured1 or matured, orvintage - and processed cheddar, Cti~Z 6~0126~which has been \"cooked\" to kill theiculture. Gourmet Snack Bar & Take Away Foods It is a relatively simple procedure e Middle Eastern specialities e Gourrhet sandwiches ... • Superb home - madeto introduce flavours to the cheese . . King-sized fillinds - pasties. vakara . tarts1smoked cheese, cheese with garlic, - try a kafta and hommos pastrami, stuffe vinewith seeds, curry and so on . . . - fresh minced steak with leaves, hommos, Bulgarian and tortes. herbs and spices. Served cheese, leg ham , When cheddar has been ~rocessed, on flat bread spread with • Freshly percolated coffeethe culture having been \" killed\", the chick peas paste. A rmenian basterma . and juices.ma~uring process stops and presentsan excellent m edium fo r the CHEZ GEORGE e 7 Coromandel Place, Adelaide e 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Frida yintroduction of flavours. It may becontradictory to say that flav ours WINESTATE, MAY, 1978 -47cannot be introduced into naturalcheddars.

Cheese continued Winewordsconsistency is demand. Milk supplies Afasas (Po.) Portuguese white wine. Acerbe vin (Fr)) Expression used forvary from month to month and an excessively sharp wine. Usuallygreater quantities of cheese are Abacete (Sp.) A wine from the this type of wine was made frommanufactured during the winter Castille region in Spain. unripe grapes. From the Latinmonths than during the summer. acerbus - bitter, harsh, sour. Abboccato (It.) On an Italian label, However, the demand remains at a means sweet or medium dry as Acerbo (Sp.) Taste of unripe apples.reasonable content, compared with opposed to secco, meaning dry. Thethe milk supply. Depending on the same as moelleux (q.v.) it is mostly Acescence (Fr.) A decompositiondemand and the availability of applied to the wines of Orvieto. towards acidity . The formation inmatured cheddar at a certain age, wine of an excess of acetic acid, oftenthere will be fluctuations in maturity. Abocado (Sp.) Spanish term for a caused by prolonged exposure to air medium sweet wine with a delicate and apparent in the formation of a Two attempts have been made bouquet. translucent grey film caused by thequite successfully to level out some aceto bacteria microbe. The result isof the inconsistencies. They are: Abricotive (Fr.) Apricote liqueur a wine that is vinegary or pique- made by steeping apricots in brandy. pricked. David Jones selected vintage - It is tawny in colour and tastes ofThis cheese comes from Mount apricots with a slight hint of almond Acetaldehyde CH3CHO is theGambier and has been aged to from the apricot stones. second member of the aldehydearound 20 months and is .not group . It is formed during Absinthe A light green extremely fermentation from pyruvic acid by ~ potent liqueur drunk only in Spain the enzyme carboylase. It is an ~ - not accepted in western countries. essential step in the production of The name comes from the Latin alcohol, since no alcohol is produced ~ absinthium, meaning woodworm, a unless acetaldehyde is reduced by the bitter plant. The liqueur is made by enzyme zymase. Large doses of marketed until the vintage has been infusing the spirit with herbs, mainly sulphite will inhibit its reduction to reached. This maturity gives the anise and woodworm. It is very alcohol so that glycerol will be its cheese a big bold flavour, firm potent and harmful to the nerves. main product. If the fermentation texture and good after-taste. Absinthe was invented in Couvet, temperature is too high , or infection Switzerland by Dr. Ordinaire, a occurs an oxidation reaction can Cheese Plus Selected cheddar - Frenchman, who sold the rights to take place and acetic acid may beAlso from Mount Gambier. It is 12 M. Pernod in 1797. It enjoyed great produced instead of alcohol. Thismonths old and is marketed for popularity until it was banned. Many may also happen if a wine is overgeneral appeal somewhere between a substitutes take its place today. The oxygenated during the rackinglate semi and standard matured most popular being from Pernod. process, however, bisulphite willcheese. The flavour is big, texture combine with acetaldehyde tofirm, slightly creamier than vintage Acariose A special breed of mite that prevent this oxidation reaction.cheeses, with a pleasant after-taste. feeds on the fruit and foliage of the vine. Destroyed by copper spray. Acetals Are formed during Both cheeses combined well with Abfullung (Ge.) \"Bottled by\" maturation when alcohol andapples and even grapes . . . an old followed by the name of the German aldehydes combine. Acetals play an English habit from early days. vineyard owner or merchant who important part in the enhancing of bottled the wine. The German the bouquet of the wine. There are many types of equivalent of \"Mise en bouteilles auAustralian cheddar and I will Chateau\".attempt to bring them all to yourattent10n in this column. Abrau One of the best wines of the Acetification The term for theNEXT MONTH ... Discovering the Crimea. oxidation of alcohol to acetic acid.blues.HAMOODS CELLARS FOR WINES - SPIRITS - BEERS 441 MAGILL RD., ST. MORRIS LARGEST RANGE OF BEER WINES AND SPIRITS SOUTH OF FREE HOME DELIVERY - PHONE 31 3386 ADELAIDE.48 - WIN ESTATE, MAY, 1978 If you are visiting the Southern districts come in and choose from our extensive selection. REYNELLA SHOPPING CENTRE SHERRIFS RD., MDRPHETT VALE. PH. 382 3738