Winestate Magazine May June 2014

regional tastingLaibach The Laibach The Cape Winemakers Boschendal 1685 Ken Forrester TheLadybird Organic Founders Blend Guild Teen Die Hoog Coastal Region Gypsy StellenboschStellenbosch Stellenbosch Cederberg Shiraz Shiraz 2011 HHH Grenache ShirazCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHHH Slightly closed on the MourvedreCabernet Franc Merlot Cabernet Very ripe varietal nose nose, brighter on the 2010 HHHMerlot 2011 HHHH Franc 2011 HHH that's just a touch palate with good fruit and Earthy nose with hintPretty aromatics; Oak dominates but raisined. Dense in the pencilly oak. R96 of raisined fruit andsome violets and some there's nice complexity mouth with generous grippy tannic palateperfumed notes. A of berries, violets, herbs blackberry flavours Rhonish full of sweet berryvery appealing lean and savoury notes layered with sweet Blends flavours. $NAand savoury palate behind. $43 vanillin oak. $NAwith plenty of flavour Bellingham The 7 TASTED Ken Forresterlength. $14 Shiraz/Syrah Bernard Series 4 AWARDED Renegade WesternRustenberg John Coastal Region Cape GrenacheX. Merriman 19 TASTED Syrah 2012 HHH1/2 The judges found these Shiraz MourvedreStellenbosch 11 AWARDED Quite elegant and fine interesting rustic styles, 2009 HHHCabernet Sauvignon with fruit showing a perhaps without the A nicely ageing ripeMerlot Petit Verdot A mixed group with touch of pepper and distinction of the top fruit wine with oakMalbec Cabernet some classy southern spice. Fleshy in the shiraz, but certainly adding complexity andFranc 2011 HHHH France-like herbal mouth with drying worthy of a look. some rustic/savouryBig rich style with spicy wines but there tannins. R170 notes. $NApowerful leafy cabernet were also some poor, Franschhoek Cellar Thokozanifruit, good oak support overripe, raisined wines. Baker Station Wellington Shiraz Sweet Whiteand some pretty firm Western Cape Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier & Fortifiedtannins. Needs time in Cederberg 2011 HHH1/2 2011 HHH1/2the cellar. $35 Cederberg Shiraz Nose has some viognier- Complex earthy/oaky 3 TASTEDLe Bonheur Estate 2011 HHHHH like spicy floral notes. bouquet and appealing 3 AWARDEDPrima Stellenbosch A stylish refined style Elegant palate, lovely sweet fruit palate withMerlot Cabernet with beautifully handled texture and slightly furry quite a lot of oak and a Three nice winesFranc Cabernet fruit and oak. Has a tannic finish. R50 long woody finish. $NA for after dinnerSauvignon 2008 slight savoury funkiness Stellenrust dessert drinking.HHH1/2 on the nose and is silky Peppergrinders BoekenhautskloofQuite elegant and smooth in the mouth Stellenbosch Shiraz The Chocolate Block Rustenberg Strawflavoursome and with bright blackberry 2007 HHH1/2 Franschhoek Red Wine Coastal Regionshowing its maturity flavours. R160 Complex style with Blend 2011 HHH Sweet White 2011with complex meaty, some leathery age. Silky Lifted meaty aromas HHHHgamey and leathery Franschhoek in the mouth with gamey with gamey notes and A lovely degree ofcharacters. $NA Vineyards flavours and a slightly hints of florals which lusciousness with floral/Dornier Franschhoek Shiraz drying finish. $NA are echoed on the apricot aromas andStellenbosch 2010 HHHH1/2 Black Elephant palate. $NA sweet marmalade-Cabernet Sauvignon A powerful solid wine Vintners Armistad like flavours and theMalbec Cabernet with juicy berry fruit and Fraschhoek Syrah right amount of acid toFranc 2011 HHH nice oak aromas and 2012 HHH balance. $30Very good juicy floral a peppery berry fruit Quite bright juicy jubeyfruit wine but still young palate with plenty of fruit on the nose and Stellenrustand raw and needing sweet oak to balance a soft approachable Chenin d'Muscatmore time. $NA it and some grippy palate. Will appeal to StellenboschGlenelly Grand Vin tannins. R119 many. $NA Noble LateStellenbosch Merlot Boekenhautskloof Harvest 2010Cabernet Sauvignon Boschendal Cecil Porcupine Ridge (375ml) HHH1/2Cabernet Franc John Reserve Swartland Syrah Lovely combination of2009 HHH Stellenbosch Shiraz 2012 HHH honeyed marmalade/Complex and funky on 2011 HHH1/2 A callow youth! Plenty candied lemon peelthe nose and chewy Aromatic thyme-like of savoury flavours with characters with hints ofand leathery on the big aromas with hints of slightly gamey nuances. herbal greenness. $NApalate. R130 berries. Quite a complex Will settle in time. $NAMeerlust spicy berry fruit palate. Beyerskloof LagareEstate Rubicon Needs roast lamb! $NA StellenboschStellenbosch Merlot Vintage FortifiedCabernet Franc Kleine Zalze 2009 HHH1/2Cabernet Sauvignon Family Reserve Big old-fashioned2008 HHH Stellenbosch Shiraz vintage port style.Made more in the 2009 HHHH1/2 Perfumed nose with atraditional Bordeaux A big solid wine lift of brandy spirit andstyle with oak, fruit and that's maturing nicely hot powerful licoriceymaturity contributing with some attractive flavours. $33equally. R305 secondary elements. The nose is still slightly closed and has an elegant, but quite complex, palate. R245 May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 101

travelbriefsWinsor dobbinadelaide hillsNEW CELLAR DOORS FRENCH CONNECTION Linea, Tilbrook Estate, Arete and Mount Lofty Ranges Vineyard.THE Adelaide Hills region is home to two A TRIP to Paris with her mother gavenew cellar doors; one tiny and only open Sophie Zervas the inspiration to launch French-style breakfasts are also servedtwo days a month, the other far grander and The White House in Hahndorf; a French- daily between 9 and 11am.offering dramatic views. accented cafe spotlighting Adelaide Hills wines in a town with a proud The ambience is old-school chic - the Verdun Park, a small family producer run German history. house facade was left untouched exceptby Sandy and Bob Voumard and Danielle for minimal signage. Inside, originaland Shaun McBeath, has previously only The White House is a cafe, wine bar, elements like floorboards and ceilingopened for special events but will now open cinema and music venue rolled into one joists were highlighted, while stylishits cellar door on the fourth Saturday and - and it has made an immediate impact paintwork and modern furniture maintainSunday of each month. on Hahndorf’s main street. the “old/new” dynamic. Visitors are invited to enjoy a wine flight, Zervas envisioned a small farmhouse The lawns are used for open-air cinemaa glass or share a bottle of sauvignon restaurant serving the best of the region, and music performances and The Whiteblanc, rosé or shiraz with friends in a lovely with friendly service, a small but ever- House works to an ethos of “Food, wine,garden setting. changing selection of food and wine and music and film” with a program of live music that was more than just soothing music and outdoor cinema during the Pike and Joyce, meanwhile, is an offshoot of background hum. When a heritage-listed warmer months. Gourmet picnic basketsthe famous Pikes business in the Clare Valley. farmhouse dating back to 1858 came and popcorn are on offer.The Pike and Joyce brand was established in onto the market, she bought the property1998 and represents the coming together of and immediately set to work to bring her Local wineries also showcase theirtwo fifth-generation South Australian families. concept to life. products in the property’s historic barn which hosts Adelaide Hills producers The Pike family, long established in The White House sources free-range, without their own cellar doors.winemaking and viticulture, and the Joyce organic and biodynamic producefamily, fifth-generation horticulturists, whenever possible, with a menu featuring The property has won several awardscombined their resources to develop a lunch dishes like a brioche burger over the past three years. You'll find it at 9025ha joint-venture, cool-climate vineyard at with roasted Swiss brown mushrooms; Main St, Hahndorf; phone (08) 8388 7669.Lenswood. It was long the dream of the late Bill Roquefort croquettes, home-made tarte www.thewhitehouseadelaidehills.com.auJoyce to see a cellar door and function centre a l’oignon and confit duck salad.built on “his” hill, and the new facility will be atasting and sales area, function space and a Dinner choices may include the likes ofspiritual home for the brand. The new facility steamed ocean trout with braised babyhas panoramic vineyard views south to Mount beetroot, or sumac-spiced de-bonedBarker and will serve “simple but wholesome” quail stuffed with lemon and fresh herbfood that focuses on local produce. Verdun crumbs and served with butter glazedPark is at 14 Sandow Rd, Verdun; phone (08) baby vegetables. The wine list features8388 7357. www.verdunparkwines.com.au. names like Barratt, Honey Moon, LaPike and Joyce is at Mawson Rd, Lenswood;phone www.pikeandjoyce.com.au.102 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

travelbriefsEQUIONE HERITAGE B&B BASE COOKING CLASSESSOMERLED is a small family winery headed HANNAH’S Cottage, high in the hills of THE Adelaide Hills has a new cooking school,by winemaker Robin Moody, who had 30 Balhannah, boasts sweeping views and with the recent opening of Rilka’s Real Foodyears with Penfolds and a stint at Wynns is the ideal base for anyone wanting to Cooking School, which focuses on the gluten-Coonawarra Estate, and now crafts a small visit local wineries, including The Lane, free and sugar-free gourmet market.range of boutique wines that are sold through Nepenthe and Shaw & Smith.a cellar door on the main street of Hahndorf. Rilka Warbanoff, a foodie and formerRob’s grandfather rode the horse Somerled This upmarket bed and breakfast cottage successful businesswoman, has openedto victory in the amateur steeplechase at offers seclusion on a farm property, a spa her school just across the road from thethe Oakbank Picnic Races in 1908 and the room with a view and wood-burning fire Udder Delights cheesery in Hahndorf. Thewinery labels reflect that equine heritage, in winter. new venture was sparked by her having awith names like the Steeplechase sauvignon gluten intolerance and her partner Barry Reesblanc and chardonnay. Facilities include a barbecue, tennis court, being diagnosed with borderline diabetes. “I lovely gardens and a spa but the veranda, didn't like the taste of most of the gluten-free Rob’s wife, Heather, and daughter, Lucy, with its magical views, is always popular. food and when I started reading the labelsrun the bright and airy cellar door, where I thought it was bizarre putting so manya tasting flight costs $5 and wines are This is an ideal venue for couples chemicals in these things,” she said. “Myavailable by the glass and bottle, to be looking for a romantic getaway in an passion for a healthy and real lifestyle spurredaccompanied by a platter of Manchego indulgent setting, with twin spa bath, me on to create a range of foods under thecheese, crusty local bread and olive oil, queen-sized bed/luxury linen and flat- Rilka’s Real Food label that taste great andKalamata olives, sun-dried figlets and screen TV. Hannah's Cottage, 44 Jones eliminate gluten, wheat, yeast, sugar andhome-made anchovy sticks. Rd, Balhannah; phone 0408 838 124. preservatives.” Months of renovations have restored the premises which was originally a Somerled Wines is at 89 Main St, COTTAGE COLLECTION jam factory in the 1850s.Hahndorf; phone (08) 8388 7478, withtastings from 10am-6pm Thursday-Monday SOME of the most exclusive “I'm passionate about sharing my healthyand later drinks on Friday evenings. accommodation in the Adelaide Hills cooking style,” she says. “Students will see can be found at Mount Lofty Cottages, how enjoyable and easy it is to learn.” three beautifully restored and spacious cottages adjacent to Mount Lofty House. Classes are for a maximum of 12 people and prices include a copy of the book The three cottages (the Piccadilly, Rilka's Feasts and printed apron. For details Chairmans and Gatekeepers) are on the see www.rilkasrealfood.com. original Mount Lofty Estate and have three, four and five bedrooms, and lashings of Top: Rilka's Real Food Cooking School. English country charm, including high Bottom: Somerled Cellar Door in Hahndorf. ceilings and open fireplaces. They also Opposite page have full access to the services and Left: Pike & Joyce new cellar door, Lenswood. facilities of Mount Lofty House - two Bottom: The White House Eggs & Bacon. restaurants and bar, tennis court, volleyball court, billiard room, library, croquet sets, outdoor swimming pool, concierge and business centre. All three cottages have fully-equipped kitchens, with washer/ dryers, LCD TVs and airconditioning, CD players, iPod docks and DVD players, board games and barbecues and are ideal for family groups. Prices start from $449 per cottage. Mount Lofty Cottages are part of the MGallery Collection and are at 74 Mt Lofty Summit Rd, Crafers; phone (08) 8339 6777. www.mtloftycottages. com.au. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 103

ADELAIDE HILLS159 TASTED74 AWARDEDA D EL A I D E H I LL SThe Hills are always going to deliver mixed results, Wolf Blass Gold Label Bleasdale Adelaide Hillsfrom glass to jewels, with varying hill slopes affecting Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Pinot Gris 2013 HHHviticulture and the occasional small winemaker Chardonnay 2011 HHH Simple and flavoursome;showing more optimism than ability. However, when Lovely line and structure with nice rose, blossom andthe wines are good, they are often great and we saw simple lemon fruit mixed with guava characters with leesythis again this year with the sparkling wines and the toasty yeasty development. notes. $18mid-weight spicy shiraz wines. We were disappointed,though, with the pinots which should have been 5+ $27.99 Kirrihill Vineyard Selectmuch better from the region; more a problem with Series Serendipitywinemaking than viticulture. Pinot Gris/ Vineyard Adelaide Hills Grigio Pinot Grigio 2013 HHHsparkling Artwine Coco Adelaide Very delicate lemon blossom Hills Sparkling Pinot 16 TASTED bouquet and lighter style palate12 TASTED Noir Pinot Meunier 8 AWARDED with subtle spices. $188 AWARDED Chardonnay NV HHH1/2 Nice balance of subtle yeasty A mixed bag. The better Fox Gordon Charlotte'sA solid result. Some of the notes, unripe strawberry fruit examples moved away from Web Adelaide Hills Pinotlesser wines had colour issues characters and some toasty just being sweet and had Grigio 2013 HHHbut at the top level these development. $28 less astringent tannins. Subtle floral nose and upfrontwines showed more texture Wicks Sparkling Adelaide However these tend to be spicy/lychee flavours withand secondary complexity with Hills Chardonnay Pinot simple, easy drinking dry 'moreish' acidity. $19.95freshness maintained, which Noir 2011 HHH1/2 whites and more for quaffingwas not necessarily the case in An interesting style with a rather than show judging. Bird In Hand Adelaidethe past. lovely fine mousse and good Hills Pinot Gris 2012 HHH intensity of upfront and nicely Bird In Hand Two In The Muted lemon/jasmine aromasYellowglen XV Sparkling balanced flavours. $25 Bush Adelaide Hills Pinot and a tightly focused lemon/Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Bird In Hand Nest Egg Joy Grigio 2013 HHHH floral palate. $28Chardonnay 2004 HHHHH Adelaide Hills Sparkling A well-made off-dry style.A nice lift to the red apple and Pinot Noir 2007 HHH1/2 Attractive confectionery nose Sauvignoncracked wheat-like aromas A complexity of earthy, with sherbety notes. Very tight Blanc & Blendswith lovely aged characters. yeasty, nougat aromas. Nicely pear and nectarine palate. GoodClean well balanced palate structured palate, good fruit acid length. $22 28 TASTEDwith fresh lemon drop flavours and lovely aged elements. 13 AWARDEDand good acid/dosage balance. The Black Chook 3-5 $85 Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio \"A number of these showed 3-5 $49.99 Bird In Hand Adelaide 2013 HHH1/2 heavy cropped, green acid, Hills Sparkling Pinot Noir Rich floral aromatics with a hint shaded characters,\" noted oneMojo Mojo Fizz Adelaide 2013 HHH of musk. Good, well-balanced, judge. \"The better wines hadHills Chardonnay Pinot Nice intensity of wild mid-palate flavour with crunchy fruit sweetness and betterNoir Brut Cuvee NV HHHH strawberry aromas and acidity. $18 acid balance.\" A couple of veryClean fresh well-made flavours. Plenty of residual interesting barrel fermentedsparkling with nice yeast sweetness. $28 Eagle and the Fool wines also on show addingautolysis layered with Longview W. Wagtail Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris some extra complexity.elegant varietal fruit. Some Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2013 HHH1/2sweetness but has the acidity Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Delicate blossom fragrances Mojo Adelaide Hillsto balance. $20 Nose showing hints of age. but big rich cut apple flavours Sauvignon Blanc Tight tangy lemon juice-like with well-balanced acidity and 2013 HHHH palate. Needs more time. some complexity. $20 Light lifted nectarine aromas with a nice pungency. Subtle 3-5 $30 Mojo Adelaide Hills Pinot mouthfilling herbaceous fruit Gris 2012 HHH1/2 on the palate with good acid Robust floral aromas with balance. $18 sweet/sour notes. Interestingly textured palate with good flavour length and balance. $20104 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

regional tasting Longview Adelaide Hills Show off your Semillon Sauvignon Blanc winemaking skills 2013 HHH to your mates. Attractive, elegant, punchy fruit aromas with solid varietal $9990R$R1P9,990 * flavours and fresh acidity. $17 Wicks Adelaide Hills ,LIBMEITEQDUOIFCFKER Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH Pungent tropical bouquet; great tropical flavours. Very good example of the region and the variety. $19 AUDLongview WhippetAdelaide Hills SauvignonBlanc 2013 HHHHMore New Zealand-like withits intense hit of tropical fruitcharacters. Some sweetnessgiving depth. Good length ofacid. $19.50Jericho Wines Molly's Cradle Adelaide 20 dozen dozen 2 JeroboamsAdelaide Hills Fumé Hills Sauvignon Blanc 750ml MagnumsBlanc 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH BottlesIntense and \"yummy\" with A subtlety of mangoes on theplenty of toasty oak on the nose and good fruit depth and *NORMAL RRP $70 PER BOTTLEnose and leading to a lean high structure. A pleasant drink. $19 SPECIAL PRICE EQUIVALENTTO $35 PER BOTTLE!acid palate. Has plenty of years Sidewood Adelaideahead of it. $25 Hills Sauvignon Blanc Using only the very best of McLaren Vale’s grapes, includingSomerled Reserve 2013 HHH shiraz from 143 year-old vines (previously reserved forAdelaide Hills Fumé Subtle varietal aromas and wellBlanc 2012 HHHH balanced varietal definition on Linchpin, Rarefied Air and 2 Mates) with the expert guidanceAlluring soft fruits, nice the complex palate. $20 of our awarded winemaker Matt Rechner, you will handcraftlength of oak and good Paracombe Adelaide an exceptional 225 litre barrel of wine which will be estatebalance between the alcohol Hills Sauvignon Blanc bottled for you to produce 20 dozen bottles plus 1dozenand acid. Nice and soft on the 2013 HHH Magnums and 2 huge Jeroboams (contact us for full details).finish. $34 Honeyed elements to theTen Miles East Adelaide tropical nose and sweet ripe This Rare Barrel Shiraz offer is tailored to theHills Sauvignon Blanc candied fruit flavours. $21 astute wine lover. It will definitely impress your mates2013 HHHH Penny's HillPowerful pungent tropical The Agreement Adelaide and just may win you a wine award...aromas and great guava and Hills Sauvignon Blancgreen bean-like flavours with a 2013 HHH Ekhidna Linchpin: 2006 Winner Great Australian Shiraz Challenge.good acid finish. Quite weighty Lovely passionfruit, mango 2 Mates:World Wine Award Winner 6 successive vintages.and long for this variety. $15 and tobacco-like aromas andAnvers Adelaide Hills a dry, grippy, but flavoursome SPECIAL OFFER INCLUDES: full day winery masterSauvignon Blanc 2013 palate. $22 class and blending, dinner and wines with Matt Rechner forHHH1/2 two persons, estate bottled wines, customised rear label withPungent nose with subtle your name as co-winemaker and complimentary entry intotinned fruit-like notes and verysweet flavours but good level Winestate regional and other tastings.of acid to balance. $20Lloyd Brothers Caesar CONTACT USTODAYAdelaide Hills Sauvignon FOR FULL DETAILS OFBlanc 2013 HHH THIS LIMITED OFFERA touch of grassiness to thenose. Simple subtle tropical Matt Rechner 0408 575 200flavours layered with green [email protected]. $12.50 May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 105

ADELAIDE HILLSChardonnay Wolf Blass Gold Label Bird In Hand Adelaide RosÉ Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Hills Arneis 2013 HHHH15 TASTED 2013 HHH Steely pear juice aromas with 7 TASTED Full creamy style of ripe hints of lychee. Beautifully 4 AWARDED8 AWARDED stonefruits, well handled oak textured palate with very good with buttery toasty notes and upfront tropical flavours and Some nice quaffing savouryA solid result with the 2012 firm acid. $24.99 firm lively acidity. $28 styles - ideal for lunch.vintage standing out. The Then there were thebetter wines here showed Bird In Hand Two In K1 by Geoff Hardy borderline wines.the restrained layered The Bush Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Grunercomplexity that the public Chardonnay 2012 HHH Veltliner 2013 HHHH Longview Boatshedis looking for and can be Big, rich and buttery with a hint A pretty wine, nicely textured Adelaide Hills Nebbiolodelivered from this region. of ripe peach characters and with hints of spice, fine flinty Rosé 2013 HHH vanillin oak. $25 notes and floral touches. Good food wine, savoury styleBird In Hand Nest Egg Steely lemon palate with subtle with a hint of sweetness.Adelaide Hills Chardonnay McGuigan The Shortlist stonefruit flavours. $28 Very good intensity and2012 HHHHH Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Wicks Adelaide Hills complexity. $19.50A clean fresh well-made 2012 HHH Riesling 2013 HHHchardonnay with lovely citrus A very good \"refined\" Floral perfumed fragrances and Bird In Hand Adelaideaccented fruits allied with chardonnay with lovely pretty palate with lovely juicy Hills Pinot Noir Roséquality oak that has subtle integration and complexity of citrus flavours. $19 2013 HHHbiscuity notes. Palate had good oak and peach. $29 Coobara Adelaide Hills Floral and fresh on the noseline and structure with very Riesling 2012 HHH and well balanced off-drymoreish acidity. 3-5 $85 Lansdowne Adelaide Hills Smoky and buttery on the nose palate. Tastes of Turkish Chardonnay 2012 HHH and tasting of lime cordial and Delight. $25Bird In Hand Adelaide Rich buttery nose and ripe toast. Very developed for itsHills Chardonnay stonefruit palate. Modest age. $18 Hahndorf Hill Zsa Zsa2012 HHHH1/2 complexity and good fruit Adelaide Hills ZweigeltA beautiful fuller style with intensity. $33 Rosé 2013 HHHlovely pear and nectar fruit and A very pretty, very wella background of toasty buttery Other White made wine with savouryoak with really good acid varietals & earthy notes. \"Quite yummy,\"balance. Great palate texture Blends enthused one judge. $25and structure. 3-5 $40 16 TASTED Somerled Adelaide HillsWolf Blass White Label 5 AWARDED Pinot Noir Rosé 2013 HHHPiccadilly Valley A warm, firm, high acidAdelaide Hills Chardonnay A very mixed group. \"The style. Sweet strawberry2012 HHHH good ones are good,\" said elements mix with savouryA powerful complexity of one judge. \"The best varietals characters. $29smoky oak aromas that lead to are still improving as a groupa restrained but flavoursome showing a very positive future Pinot Noirpalate with lovely oak intensity. for the region.\" 16 TASTED 3-5 $34.99 Hand Crafted by Geoff 5 AWARDED Hardy Adelaide Hills FianoBleasdale Adelaide Hills 2013 HHHH1/2 \"Too many wines here wereChardonnay 2013 HHH A long lingering well-made over extracted and madeIntense smoky wood and wine with just a hint of more like dry reds. Othersstonefruit fragrances. Flinty oak perfume on the luscious were treated as whole bunchdominates the palate. A nice punchy fruit nose and showing carbonique macerated styleswine. 3-5 $20 an attractive combination of which took away from the exotic fruit and pithy citrus varietal character,\" said one flavours. $25 judge. \"Few were faulty they just need more direction.\"judges Duane Coates Clare Dry Natasha Mooney Winemaker for Cleggett’s, Currently Winemaker Proprietor of Natasha Mooney Coates & Raydon Estate at Wolf Blass Wines. Wine Architect, wine consultant Wines. Duane has a Masters Bachelor of Oenology to the industry. Chief winemaker of Oenology from Adelaide at Adelaide University. for Fox Gordon/Xanadu/Normans University and has gained Has vintaged in for the past two years. overseas winemaking Mornington Peninsula Previously chief winemaker experience in Burgundy, and the Pfalz region Barossa Valley Estate. the Northern Rhone Valley of Germany. Associate judge at Adelaide, regions in France, and the Seymour Rutherglen, Barossa Douro Valley in Portugal. and Mildura.106 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

regional tasting Bird In Hand Nest Egg Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2 Smells spicy - like a Christmas cake with a touch of mintiness and nice savoury oak support. Big balanced oaky palate but in check with the quality fruit intensity and complexity. $110Kangarilla Hill Wicks Adelaide HillsAdelaide Hills Pinot Noir Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH1/2 2012 HHHHEarthy chocolate aromas and A classic deep inky cabernetwarm chocolaty forest fruit style with a developed leatheryflavours layered with firm nose and very good richtannins. Some alcohol heat. $15 flavoursome intensity on theNepenthe The Good long palate. $20Doctor Adelaide Hills K1 by Geoff HardyPinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2 Tzimmukin AdelaideConfectionery notes to the Hills Cabernet Sauvignonfruity nose and tangy cherry Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2fruit palate with nice oak Spicy blueberry nose andbalance and a 'clipped' balanced chocolaty palatefinish. $35 with drying tannins. Still hasNepenthe Adelaide Hills more cellaring potential.Pinot Noir 2012 HHHSmells of black cherry jam. 3-5 $95Bright palate with warm black/ Longview Devils Elbowred fruits and subtle oak. Hot Adelaide Hills Cabernetfinish. $21.99 Sauvignon 2010 HHH Leafy herbal nose and simple tannic palate with attractive blueberry fruit and good level of acid. $27Kirrihill Vineyard Select K1 by Geoff HardySeries Adelaide Hills Pinot Adelaide Hills CabernetNoir 2012 HHH Sauvignon 2009 HHHNice pinot complexity to the Muted cassis aromas with leafynose and bright fruit flavours accents. Similar palate withwith firm tannins and good very firm chewy tannins. Goodoak. $25 acidity. $35Johnston Adelaide Hills Merlot & BlendsPinot Noir 2010 HHHDark cherry aromas with 4 TASTEDstemmy, green spice touches. 1 AWARDEDRed fruit and cola on thepalate. $20 \"With some exceptions merlot still struggles to achieveCabernet & high notes in the AustralianBlends landscape,\" said one judge.11 TASTED Bird In Hand Two In The5 AWARDED Bush Adelaide Hills Merlot Cabernet 2012 HHHA mixed result with the better A cassis/blackberry jam nosewines showing more varietal and well-balanced red palatecharacter and not hit by too with good oak levels. $22much oak. \"A number of wineswere trying to be what thefruit was unable to deliver,\"noted one judge. \"Rather thanfocusing on the fruits bestvarietal character.\" May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 107

ADELAIDE HILLSShiraz & Blends Paracombe Adelaide Hills Karrawatta Dairy Paracombe Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009 HHHH Block Adelaide Hills Malbec 2010 HHH1/223 TASTED Medium bodied wine vibrant Shiraz 2012 HHH Varietally very good with soft11 AWARDED with plum and cassis fruit Smells of smallgoods with spicy/sweet fruit and balancing\"Lots of good drinkability supported by fragrant oak and herbal notes. Savoury flavours oak, long grippy tannins andhere,\" said one judge. \"The showing good tannin finesse with some sweet fruit at the alcohol heat. $27winemakers understand the and length. 3-5 $21 back. $38 Mr Riggs d'Adelaidevariety better here and are Hills Adelaide Hillsproducing mid-weight spicy Wicks Adelaide Hills Kangarilla Hill Adelaide Montepulciano 2012 HHHstyles offering a difference Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Hills Shiraz 2010 HHH Dense and savoury/meatyof style.\" Inky crimson wine with a Earthy and spicy on the nose inky crimson wine, soft in theWolf Blass Gold Label pungent nose and meaty/herbal and a complex savoury palate mouth. Very drinkable. $27Adelaide Hills Syrah palate with sweet oak and very with a high acid finish. $15 Hahndorf Hill Blueblood2012 HHHH1/2 high in acid. $20 Kangarilla Hill Adelaide Adelaide HillsA very pretty wine that's Hills Shiraz 2007 HHH Blaufrankisch 2012 HHHpolished and long and full Longview Yakka Adelaide A very big mature wine. Lots Spicy plum nose with a brightof briary/forest fruits Hills Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 of plum, licorice, soy and palate full of plum pastille-likeshowing attractive spicy Herbal nose with earthy earthy characters with tannin flavours. $40notes and balanced by the nuances - quite vibrant. finesse. $12lovely sweetness of quality Lovely silky palate, well Sweet Whiteoak. $27.90 balanced and still showing Other Red vibrancy. 3-5 $27 varietals & 2 TASTEDAnvers Adelaide Hills Blends 1 AWARDEDShiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 Paracombe Somerville One nice after dinner drink!A fuller style with delicious Shiraz Adelaide Hills 9 TASTEDearthy plum fruit characters, Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 5 AWARDED Longview Epitomesome toasty licorice elements Deep inky wine with spicy Some very interesting results. Adelaide Hills Lateand loads of quality oak with blue fruit nose and vibrant \"The Adelaide Hills could be Harvest Riesling 2013fine, but chewy, tannins and fruit palate with nice mature a good proving ground for HHH1/2greenish acid. $38 characters. 3-5 $69 some of these Mediterranean Sweet candied lime peel-like varietals,\" suggested one judge. aromas and delicate, but very Longview Adelaide sweet, lime palate. \"Quite Hills Shiraz Cabernet a rustic style,\" thought one Sauvignon 2012 HHH judge. $19.50 Pretty forest floor nose with subtle oak. Raspberry palate layered with savoury oak and fine tannins. $17 Eagle and the Fool Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2012 HHH Nose bordering on savory. Developed plum/raspberry palate, attractive woody notes, silky tannins. $20 Fox Gordon The Sicilian Adelaide Hills Nero D'Avola 2012 HHHH Medium bodied style smelling of cassis with herbal notes and a tasty palate. \"Like biting into a star ratings  raspberry truffle,\" according to one judge. 3-5 $19.95Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Bird In Hand AdelaideAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Hills Montepulcianoprofessionals and are compared in peer 2012 HHHHclasses by three judges. Deep crimson wine with spicyCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, plum and vanilla bouquet anda major mail-order business. great depth of sweet fruitCD Cellar door price. flavours, drying oak and softCDO Cellar door only. velvety tannins. $42SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 152. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au108 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

SEE YOU IN A record-breaking number of peopleFEBRUARY visited this year’s Cellar Door Wine2015 Festival! Thank you to our sponsors,ADELAIDE exhibitors and visitors in contributingCONVENTION to the great success of the event.CENTRE For information on how you can exhibit at the 2015 Festival, contact [email protected]

99 TASTED67 AWARDEDS W EE T W H I T E & F O RT I F I E DA very strong strike rate here for our annual “sweeties” tasting, Noblewhich shows that the Antipodes has ample sunshine to get the fruit Botrytisripe. However, that’s not all of the story as winemakers still have Otherto make the wine amidst mould issues at picking, acid and sugarbalance determinations, and with fortifieds, spirit handling. For the 3 TASTEDfew remaining winemakers who take the plunge, all credit to them! 1 AWARDEDLate Harvest Noble Noble There was one wine 919 VintageRiesling Botrytis Botrytis here worthy of drinking Riverland Fortified Riesling Semillon and showing good fruit 2006 HHHH1/26 TASTED and botrytis characters. An old Aussie style with3 AWARDED 4 TASTED 7 TASTED heady licorice and dark 3 AWARDED 3 AWARDED Konrad Sigrun fruit aromas showingThe best wines here Noble Two great brandy integrationexhibited light flavours, A small but solid group The high scoring wines Marlborough and full-on chocolatynice freshness and showing good depth showed the complexity Riesling Sauvignon flavours with a longbalancing acidity. of varietal fruit flavours of clean luscious botrytis Blanc 2011 lingering hot spirity with nice balance of flavours while others (375ml) HHH finish. $100Mount Fishtail sugar and acid. were either low in A lovely maderised Shingleback VintageLate Harvest botrytis or were over complexity of honey/ McLaren ValeMarlborough Late Annies Lane ripe and raisined. citrus and tropicals Fortified ShirazHarvest Riesling Clare Valley with intense luscious 2012 HHHHNV (500ml) HHH Botrytis Riesling Saddlers Creek sweetness. $32.90 Lovely purple huedEarthy musty citrus rind 2009 HHH1/2 Botrytis Supreme wines with aromasaromas and simple sweet Intense marmalade Botrytis Semillon Vintage of blackcurrants.apricot flavours. $20.70 aromas and flavours of 2009 HHHHH Fortified Some intensity of toffee and barley sugar A complex seamlessly fruit cake/berry fruitPegasus Bay Aria with a pleasant, slightly balanced style with 6 TASTED flavours and fine tanninWaipara Valley Late phenolic, finish. $24.99 an elegant length of 5 AWARDED structure. $17.95Picked Riesling attractive citrus, apricot Kalleske JMK2012 HHH Saint Clair Awatere and tropical elements. Good examples of Barossa ValleyA lift of orange blossom Valley Reserve Ageing nicely with a nice diverse styles showing a Shiraz VP 2013on the nose and zesty Marlborough Noble malty/cold tea lift. Good good selection of brandy (375ml) HHHfresh well-balanced Riesling 2013 finish. $36 spirit and the increasing Short extracted style, fullmarmalade palate. $NA (375ml) HHH use of Portuguese of flavour with wonderful A lift of rose petal-like Deen De Bortoli Vat varieties in the mix. lifted spirit. $23McGuigan Cellar aromas with tight 5 Botrytis SemillonSelect Late Picked apricot flavours. Very 2009 HHHH1/2 Baileys VP 140Riesling 2010 sweet. $27.50 Complexity of fresh Glenrowan Fortified(375ml) HHH citrus and tropical 2012 HHHH1/2Tropical/citrus bouquet Saint Clair Godfrey's aromas showing great A complex lift of spicywith honeyed notes. Creek Reserve freshness with a vibrant blackberry aromas withSoft, sweet and fleshy in Marlborough Noble fruit pie of a palate with resinous nuances. Nicethe mouth. $25 Riesling 2013 fruit, acid and sugar in spiciness to the palate (375ml) HHH perfect balance. $11.55 with smooth tannins and Clean and balanced with well integrated spirit. soft citrus and tropical Sandalford Botrytis Needs more time. $30 characters and toffee Semillon 2010 touches. $27.50 (375ml) HHH Pungent tropical nose and tight elegant palate with nice toffee/raisined flavours. $35110 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

varietal tasting919 Vintage Oro de Osborne DWPAR14437Riverland Fortified Spain Fino NV HHHH2009 HHH A delicate style withA more floral, feminine salty, cheesy-likestyle. Spicy peppery characters on thearomas and rich licoricey nose and good lengthflavours. $50 of yeasty/'sea-side' flavours with light crispApera acidity. $13.65(Sherry) 919 Pale Dry Riverland Apera13 TASTED NV HHHH11 AWARDED A fuller style with a mix of bread dough andA very strong class green apple-like aromasranging from the very and flavours and somedry to the very sweet attractive nutty florstyles. \"What stood out characters. $29here were the fresh and Seppeltsfield Solerovibrant aperitif styles; DP38 Rich Rareeven the commercial Venerable Barossawines,\" said one judge. Oloroso NV HHHHEnjoy chilled. Deep and golden with great age, high acid andLustau San Emilio citrus rind nuances all inSpain Pedro perfect balance. NuttyXimenez NV HHHHH nose and long oakyAromas of vanilla ice palate. $32cream, figs and aged Seppeltsfieldrancio characters. A Paramountlusciously sweet palate Collection Barossathat fills the mouth with DP898 Aged Florvery sweet dried fruit Apera NV HHHHand chocolaty flavours A deep golden, sweeterwith herbal/tea leaf style with big, rich agedhints. $30.45 oaky aromas and huge, slightly earthy flavours.Seppeltsfield Solero A touch hot. A greatDP116 Aged Flor wine. $499Barossa Amontillado SandalfordNV HHHHH Sandalera PedroA lovely elegant Ximenez NV HHH1/2amontillado style A luscious andthat's topaz in colour seamlessly balancedand brimming over sweetness of caramel,with vibrant citrussy dried fig andcharacters, great aged honeycombnutty oak expression elements. $95and with lovely aged McWilliams Royalcomplexity. $32 Reserve Sweet Sherry NV HHHValdespino Spain A fuller, sweet stylePedro Ximenez NV with honeyed, mandarin/HHHHH tropical elements. ASeductive and flavoursome commercialvoluptuous but also has wine. $7.35great elegance. Aromas Willandra Estateof dark chocolate and Cream Aperaraisins with mouthcoating NV HHHsyrupy dry fig/caramel A sweet crowd pleaserflavours. It's balanced with light youthful floral,and long. $34.65 rose-like aromatic fruit characters. $12 www.parous.com.au May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 111

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDSeppeltsfield Solero Grant Burge 20 Year Grant Burge 10 Year Wolf Blass Yellow 919 ClassicDP117 Barossa Dry Old Barossa Tawny Old Barossa Tawny Label Reserve Riverland Tawny NVFlor Apera NV HHH NV HHHHH NV HHHH1/2 Australia Tawny (500ml) HHHHVery nutty with lovely Some lovely wood age Lovely complexity, NV HHHH An elegant bright coppercomplexity, very aged intensity here with freshness and inviting \"There's a nice finesse wine with some obviousfor an Apera style. $32 excellent age fruit length. Very drinkable about this style,\" said age, hot spirit, enticing expression. Smells of with wood age, aged one judge. Reserved fruit and showing goodTawny burnt sugar and has a citrus rind fruit, spicy rancio/caramel/chocolate palate freshness. Needs lovely concentration of characters and nutty nose and balanced aged more time. $2926 TASTED dark chocolate and spicy rancio. Slight sweetness toffee flavours. $17.99 Morris Black Label20 AWARDED flavours. $80 on the finish. $32.45 Rutherglen Old Penfolds Seppeltsfield Para Grant Burge Barossa Tawny NV HHH1/2Many fantastic wines Grandfather Rare Barossa Grand Aged Tawny NV Nutty rancio aromashere. \"We have better Tawny NV HHHHH Tawny NV HHHH1/2 HHHH with a good spirity'ports' than Portugal,\" Complex and intense A great mélange of An elegant easy drinking lift. Nice length of richsuggested one judge. tawny with pencil caramel, nuts, toffee wine that's loaded chocolate and Vegemite-\"No matter what price shaving-like oak sitting and old plum jam with huge rich fruit like flavours. $16.50bracket, there are on top of spicy aged with attractive rancio characters, some age Saltram Mrwines across all ages chocolaty fruit and development, nice intensity. Quite a woody Pickwick'swith very few that showing great age with sugar, good acid savoury style. $20 Particular Tawnywould disappoint.\" lovely brandy spirit and balance and a touch of Penfolds Club NV HHH1/2 nuances of tea-leaf hot spirit. $35 Reserve Classic Astringent resinous/Seppeltsfield Solero characters. $100 Penfolds Great Tawny NV HHHH crushed ant aromas.DP30 Barossa Grand Grandfather Rare A fragrance of spicy Great age and flavourTawny NV HHHHH Tawny NV HHHH1/2 gingery characters on intensity with a highBright copper/yellow Intense aged nutty/ the nose with nutty level of acidity. $74.99in colour with aromas caramel/toffee elements complexity on the Seppeltsfieldreminiscent of brandy and showing a hint of excellent long palate Para Barossasnaps, fine spices and VA. Great aged fruit fills with its nice spirit Vintage Tawnychocolate. Great fruit the mouth with intense integration. $20 1993 HHH1/2intensity on the palate. sweet flavours that Spirituous woodySome great age. Very linger on and on. $350 aromas with intensegood tawny style. $32 spiciness and big powerful flavours onGralyn Estate a long, well-balancedMargaret River palate. $80Tawny NV De Bortoli Sacred(375ml) HHHHH Hill Reserve TawnyAn aromatic combination NV HHHof liqueur, spicy shiraz A nice simple classicfruit and chocolate on Aussie style. Spicythe nose and flavours of raisined characterscaramel and toffee with and lifted perfumeda drying finish. Shows florals. $5.25good freshness for its McWilliamsage. $45 Hanwood Estate Tawny NV HHH Nutty spicy aromatics and spiced fruit cake flavours. Good commercial style. $9.45judges Eric Semmler James Godfrey Stuart Kilmister Proprietor of 919 Wine Chief fortified Senior winemaker at Company. Formerly winemaker winemaker for Treasury Lindemans Karadoc for the Hardy Wine Company. Wines. Senior wine winery. Previously Previously with Brown show judge on the worked for Jacques Brothers and Auldstone Cellars. Australian National wine and Francois Lurton Has spent eight years as show circuit. Member in Bordeaux and Loire fortified winemaker for of the Australian Wine Valley. Also at Roberts Hardys. Associate judge at Export judging panel Estate in Mildura Rutherglen, McLaren Vale and regulating the quality of and Montana in New Riverland shows. wines sent overseas. Zealand.112 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

varietal tastingWolf Blass Red Morris Old Premium Muscat Baileys Founders Seppeltsfield SoleroLabel Australian Rutherglen Rare Series Classic DP63 Barossa GrandTawny NV HHH Liqueur Tokay 16 TASTED Glenrowan Muscat Muscat NV HHHSpicy chocolaty plum NV HHHHH 12 AWARDED NV HHHH Earthy aromas withbouquet and simple This wine has lovely Aromatic age and whiffs of roses andraisined/caramel intensity, fullness \"This is what Australia fruit aromas with flavours of toffeeflavours. Good brandy and age. Smells of does best in the malty caramel notes. laced with some agedspirit. $13.99 old toffee, black tea World,\" said one judge. Good concentration complexity. $32 and aged honeycomb \"A fantastic flight of of sweetness to theGilberts Portugal with intense resinous beautifully balanced flavoursome palate. Nice 919 ClassicTawny Port NV HHH chocolaty flavours sweet and sticky wines.\" acidity. $30 Riverland MuscatA lifted fruit-driven underscored by good NV HHHstyle with spicy brandy length of acid. $75 Morris Cellar Baileys Winemakers Nutty rancio aromas andspirit and licorice Seppeltsfield Solero Reserve Rutherglen Selection Glenrowan a warm, drier style, oakyflavours. Drying on the DP57 Barossa Grand Grand Liqueur Rare Old Muscat NV palate. Some complexityfinish. $17.90 Tokay NV HHHH1/2 Muscat NV HHHH evident. $40 A great young wine (500ml) HHHHH Loads of Christmas cakeMorris Rutherglen with a serious lifted Dark chocolaty -like fruit characters on Other SweetClassic Tawny complexity of malt, complexity to the nose the nose and palate with WhiteNV HHH butterscotch and cold with massive aged floral touches and toffeeRaisined fruit nicely tea characters. Palate characters and delicate richness. Nicely aged 8 TASTEDbalanced with older offers a luscious rose petal floral lift. style. $75 2 AWARDEDsweet buttery oak and a sweetness of raisins, Powerful, rich palate withdrying finish. $22 chocolate and dried slippery sweet aromatic Morris Black Generally simple wines nuts. $32 intensity. $50 Label Rutherglen with the high scorersPenfolds Father Baileys Winemakers Liqueur Muscat showing balance andGrand Tawny Selection Rare Old Morris Old Premium NV HHH1/2 freshness.NV HHH Topaque Glenrowan Rutherglen Rare Crème caramel aromasSimple musky aromas Muscadelle NV HHHH Liqueur Muscat with flavours of raisins St Huberts Yarraand soft, sweet, simple An elegance of malt NV HHHHH and chocolate and Valley Late Harvestpalate with sweet toffee, black tea, bitter Huge floral lift to the showing a well-balanced Viognier 2013caramel flavours. $40 chocolate and nice intense Christmas cake- sweetness. $16.50 (375ml) HHH nuttiness. Lovely silky like aromas beautifully Rose petal aromatics,Tokay sweet flavours that, layered with toffee. Gralyn Estate luscious and sweet in(Topaque) \"Last forever,\" according Great palate length with Classic Muscat the mouth with loads of to one judge. $75 masses of chocolate, Margaret River flavour. $308 TASTED Seppeltsfield treacle and toffee NV (375ml) HHH1/27 AWARDED Paramount Collection flavours. $75 Toffee aromas with Brown Brothers DP64 Barossa Tokay beeswax-like touches. Victoria OrangeExcellent class showing NV HHH1/2 Gralyn Estate Nice nuttiness to Muscat and Floragreat fruit flavour Very old intense Museum Margaret the sweet elegant 2012 HHHconsistently and toffee, fig and caramel River Muscat NV palate. Quite long and Perfumed, floral andintensity. characters with some (375ml) HHHHH drying. $55 fresh on the nose. Soft, cloying sweetness A very intense aged tropical and fresh in theMorris Cellar balanced with hot wine with aromas of McWilliams mouth. $14.70Reserve Rutherglen spirit. $699 dates, caramel and dark Hanwood EstateGrand Liqueur Tokay Baileys Founders chocolate, showing a Muscat NV HHHNV (500ml) HHHHH Series Classic floral complexity. Tight, Elegant, lifted and fruitPowerful aged aromas Topaque Glenrowan elegant and floral on driven. Good exampleof preserved fruit, Muscadelle NV HHH the fresh palate with of style. Nice youthfultoffee and chocolate Complexity of cold long lingering citrus wine. $9.45with delicious flavours tea, malt toffee, flavours. $120resembling fruit resin and some nice Morriscake spices and dark 'chocolatiness'. $30 Morris Cellar One Rutherglen Classicchocolate. Great age Morris Cellar One Classic Rutherglen Liqueur Muscatintensity and good acid Classic Liqueur Liqueur Muscat NV HHHspine. $50 Topaque Rutherglen NV HHHH1/2 A long intense balance NV HHH Floral, rose-like of sweet lusciousness, Light, simple and characters evident on raisins, roses, fruit cake youthful with spicy the complex raisined and caramel. $22 fruit cake characters nose and a slightly and excellent caramel simple palate full of dark length. $35 chocolaty fig-like flavours and soft and smooth in the mouth. $35 May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 113

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNORTH ISLAND(Wairarapa, Gisborne, Auckland & Northland)HOLDING COURT TOURISM TAKE-OFF Auckland from Sydney in 1939. “Aotearoa II is a really pristine example of one of theTHE LANGHAM Auckland, a hotel with a AUCKLAND’S newest tourism experience best-loved float planes in the world,” helong tradition of wining and dining, has offers the chance to do Waiheke Island in says. “For the last 25 years she has had oneopened a stylish new a la carte lobby bar considerable style. Auckland Seaplanes takes careful owner - a Canadian gentleman whoeatery - Palm Court. off and lands on the waters of the Waitemata kept her in immaculate condition and only Harbour in an original 1961 De Havilland used her to fly to his lodge on Vancouver The new space serves breakfast, light Beaver - one of the most iconic float planes in Island. We are really excited about sharingsnacks, drinks and a tiffin-style afternoon the world - before heading across the Hauraki her story and the stunning landscapes oftea daily. Lunch favourites include salmon Gulf. The company offers scenic flights over the Hauraki Gulf with the world.”poached in duck fat or the beef carpaccio the volcanoes and islands of the gulf, as wellwith rocket, parmesan shavings, truffle oil as vineyard lunch packages to sample the Auckland Seaplanes offers scenic flightsand balsamic vinegar, while tiffin is served local food and wines of Waiheke Island. and packages for up to seven passengersat 11.30am and 2.30pm, with tiny treats and vineyard lunch packages include: Manarriving on three-tiered silver stands. Think Auckland Tourism, Events and Economic O’ War Wine Tasting and Lunch - a flight tomorsels like quail egg Waldorf salad on Development manager Jason Hill says the Man O'War Bay where visitors are droppeda potato and white truffle mousse, carrot launch of Auckland Seaplanes will add a off on the beach for a wine tasting, followedflan on polenta with drunken raisins, new dimension to exploring the harbour by a lunch platter and glass of wine. Returnpeanut butter mousse with milk chocolate and islands. “Finding new ways for people transfers back can be by ferry or seaplane.chantilly and chocolate cake with peanut to experience our harbour and gulf are key This three-hour experience costs frombrittle. Award-winning wines, liqueurs and aims of the Auckland Visitor Plan,” he says. $NZ390 per person for a minimum of fourcocktails also take centre stage, with the “We’re thrilled to see Auckland Seaplanes passengers. Lunch or dinner at the Oystersignature drink a caramel popcorn martini in the air and think this will have a strong Inn - a flight to Oneroa on Waiheke Island andcombining vanilla vodka, butterscotch appeal to a broad range of people - from VIP bus transfer to the Oyster Inn for a lunchschnapps, cream and home-made liquid local aviation enthusiasts to international or dinner overlooking the bay. Lunch canpopcorn served in a chilled martini glass visitors wanting something a little different.” be a three-course meal or full degustationwith a honey and crackle crystal rim. menu. Return transfers are by seaplanePost dinner drinks and cocktails are a Amazingly, Waitemata Harbour was or ferry (from $NZ420 per person). For fullspeciality should you feel like a tipple after once the main international airport for details phone +64 9 390 1121 or visit www.your meal in the hotel’s signature Eight Auckland when seaplanes were the only aucklandseaplanes.com.restaurant. The Langham, 83 Symonds St, way to fly into the city.Auckland; phone +64 9379 5132. www. GYPSY FLAVOURlanghamhotels.co.nz. Auckland Seaplanes Chief Executive Chris Sattler has named the aircraft “Aotearoa II” FANCY staying somewhere different? after the plane that made the first flight into Unique gypsy-style accommodation is now available at Mas de Saules, a small farm with an authentic Provençal farmhouse on the Ruamahanga River, just outside of Masterton in the Wairarapa wine region. Guests are offered the chance to stay in an authentic gyspy-style caravan, with two bedrooms and a cool house - along with a bush bath and hot shower. Alternatively, accommodation in shepherd huts (cabins) or more traditional bed and breakfast/homestay rooms with en suite bathrooms. The gypsy camp has its own private river beach from which to enjoy canoeing or swimming and there are several cellar doors within a short drive. For details visit www.mas-de-saules.co.nz/ gypsy-river-camping.114 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

travelbriefsINTIMATE ESCAPE of the property, and taking into account the executive chef Paul Froggatt, and learn interests of the local community. about the world of pearls. A Celebrate theWAIHEKE Island has a new luxury Art of Living weekend will bring togetherguesthouse: the Oyster Inn. Peppers Carrington Resort is set on acclaimed and respected leaders in their more than 1000ha looking over the Pacific fields, including health and well-being A seaside hideaway nestled on one Ocean and includes a substantial vineyard expert Dr Libby Weaver and Greywackeof New Zealand’s favourite and most and a golf course designed by American winemaker Kevin Judd. The Bollingerstunning playgrounds, the Oyster Inn is Matt Dye, as well as the main resort lodge Champagne Dinner will be hosted by Clivejust a 40-minute ferry (or car ferry) ride and associated villas. The existing 188ha Weston, sharing with Huka Lodge guests afrom downtown Auckland. With only three vineyard already exports wines to China. menu created by Martin Benn, of Sydney’sguest rooms, the inn offers the perfect Other local attractions range from Olympic- celebrated Sepia restaurant, while the Bigintimate escape. The luxury boutique quality skeet and trap shooting, tennis (Aussie) Red Dinner will be hosted by formeraccommodation has a jaunty nautical theme and kayaking to bird watching or deep Australian rugby union captain Nick Farr-and all the rooms have airconditioning/ sea fishing in the waters off the Karikari Jones and feature wines from Brokenwood,ceiling fans, free wi-fi, safe, LCD TVs, Peninsula. Information about Peppers Jim Barry and Vasse Felix. Huka Lodge hasDVD players and Ipod docks, super king Carrington Resort can be found at www. come a long way since Irishman Alan Pyebeds with quality linen, mini-bar and luxury peppers.co.nz/carrington.bathroom amenities. There is also a seafoodrestaurant, bar, private room, beach shopand fish and chips take-away on site andnumerous vineyards, galleries and olivefarms on your doorstep. Chef ChristianHossack (formerly head chef at London’sProvidores) and experienced team followa locavore philosophy with a local fishingboat catching fish for the eatery. Shellfishinclude Waiheke’s own Te Matuku oystersand the vegetables are grown by localgardeners. The Oyster Inn, 124 Ocean ViewRd, Oneroa, Waiheke Island; phone +64 9372 2222. www.theoysterinn.co.nz.PLANNING FOR THE FUTURE CELEBRATING IN STYLE founded it as a simple tented camp in 1924. Today it is an ultra-luxury retreat and sisterPEPPERS Carrington Resort, located four THE AMAZING Huka Lodge is poised to property to Dolphin Island, Fiji, and Grandehours north of Auckland in the Northland celebrate its 90th anniversary with a stellar Provence Estate, South Africa. All threeregion, is set to undergo massive expansion line-up of extraordinary talent and events properties comprise The Huka Retreats andand be marketed as a major destination for during the autumn-winter. Highlights will are the vision of their founder, entrepreneurvisitors to the region. The resort has been include intimate dinners with authors Eleanor Alex van Heeren. Huka Lodge, 271 Hukapurchased by Shanghai CRED Real Estate, Catton and Alexander McCall Smith, an Falls Rd, Taupo; phone +64 7 378 5791.one of the largest real estate developers Italian opera weekend with veteran Sydney www.hukalodge.co.nz.in China, which has said it plans to attract chef Stefano Manfredi featuring songs frommore high-income tourists, increasing wine Deborah Wai Kapohe and a Paspaley Pearl Above: Huka Lodge.exports from the property and offer new Discovery weekend where guests will dine Opposite page: Langham Hotel Auckland high tea.local jobs. General manager Simon Jones, on pearl meat, prepared by Huka Lodgewho has been with the resort for nearlysix years, has been appointed CEO andsays all future development will be carriedout with great attention to environmentalconsiderations, preserving native bushand wetlands which add to the attraction May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 115

52 TASTED36 AWARDEDNORTH ISLANDWairarapa, Gisborne, Auckland & Nor thlandThe sunny, dry, 2013 growing season in the North Island OTHER WHITES Matawhero Church House– by far the best since 2010 – has yielded excellent white Gisborne Chenin Blancwines. The reds from 2012 are a mixed bag, but the 11 TASTED 2013 HHHHjudges still found some highly attractive wines. 8 AWARDED Crisp and lively, youthful wine, with dryish lemon, apple andPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. A fascinating class that pineapple flavours, showingWines available in export markets are shown as demonstrated the North excellent varietal purity, drive(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Island’s ability to succeed and length. $28 with “alternative” varieties, Craggy Range TeCHARDONNAY The Landing Chardonnay currently grown on a small Muna Road Vineyard 2012 HHH1/2 scale, that may well have a Martinborough Riesling8 TASTED Weighty Northland wine, strong future. Albarino, with its 2013 HHH1/27 AWARDED arguably over-oaked, but good resistance to rain, is a hot Attractively scented, with strong, showing good depth, with a tip, especially for Gisborne. citrusy fruit flavours. FinelyChardonnay is definitely on mealy, creamy complexity. $30 balanced, off-dry style, with athe comeback trail, with new Matawhero Church Villa Maria Ihumatao fresh, lingering finish. $27 (A)plantings in Gisborne. This was House Barrel Fermented Vineyard Gewurztraminer Craggy Range Tea strong class, dominated by Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 2013 HHHHH Muna Road Vineyardwines from the Auckland and Fleshy, with good depth of Enticingly perfumed, spicy Martinborough SauvignonGisborne regions. ripe, citrusy, peachy flavours, bouquet. Highly attractive, Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 youthful and lingering. Nutty and richly varietal wine, medium to Tight, youthful wine, withVilla Maria Single creamy. $28 full-bodied, with citrusy, spicy mouthfilling body and very goodVineyard Ihumatao Tohu Gisborne flavours, fresh, youthful and depth of vibrant, sweet-fruitChardonnay 2012 HHHHH Chardonnay 2012 HHH lasting. Well worth cellaring. flavours, enlivened by freshFragrant, highly refined and Fresh, citrusy and lively, with a (Estate-grown in Auckland.) $32 acidity. $24 (A, UK, US)subtle wine, estate-grown in slightly creamy texture, a subtle Coopers Creek SV Matawhero ChurchSouth Auckland, with youthful seasoning of oak and a rounded Allison Gisborne House Gisborne Arneisgrapefruit and nut flavours, finish. $22 Marsanne 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2showing excellent complexity Thornbury Gisborne Full-bodied, fleshy dry wine, with Floral and fleshy, with goodand length. Rated highly by all Chardonnay 2013 HHH ripe stonefruit flavours, showing weight and depth of ripe, citrusyjudges. $32 Attractive, fruit-driven style good power, harmony and flavours, slightly leesy and nutty with vibrant, citrusy flavours persistence. $24 notes adding interest, and a dry,Waiheke Road Gisborne that linger well. Still youthful, Coopers Creek SV Bell- finely balanced finish. $28Reserve Chardonnay 2013 with a very subtle seasoning of Ringer Gisborne Albarino Villa Maria SingleHHHH oak. $21 2013 HHHH Vineyard IhumataoFrom a Waiheke Island-based Crisp, tight, medium-bodied Verdelho 2012 HHHproducer, Awaroa, this is a wine, with youthful, delicate Mouthfilling, dry wine, estate-fragrant, fleshy Gisborne wine, peach, nectarine and spice grown at Mangere, with crisp,with substantial body, ripe, flavours that linger well. $24 youthful, tropical fruit flavoursgrapefruit-like flavours, mealy and good mouthfeel. $27notes adding complexity, and acreamy-smooth finish. $38Cable Bay Waiheke IslandChardonnay 2012 HHH1/2Full-bodied, with ripe citrus fruit,peach and nut flavours, freshacidity and some potential.Vibrantly fruity, with well-integrated oak. $35116 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

regional tastingPINOT GRIS VIOGNIER SWEET WHITES ROSÉ4 TASTED 3 TASTED 3 TASTED 3 TASTED2 AWARDED 2 AWARDED 2 AWARDED 2 AWARDEDCable Bay Waiheke Island Cable Bay Edwards Cable Bay Sweet Gloria Coopers Creek HuapaiPinot Gris 2013 HHHH Vineyard Waiheke Island Late Harvest Waiheke Rosé 2013 HHHHSlightly creamy bouquet. Full- Viognier 2012 HHHH Island Viognier 2012 Mouthfilling, malbec-basedbodied, dryish style, with pure, Mouthfilling, generous (375ml) HHHHH rosé with bright, pink/redripe, peachy, citrusy flavours, wine, barrel-aged, with Hedonistic, strongly botrytised colour. Fleshy, with fresh, lively,showing very good depth, and good mouthfeel and strong, wine, with an invitingly honeyed red berry flavours and gooda smooth, creamy texture. peachy, slightly oaky flavours. bouquet. Mouthfilling and persistence. Enjoyed by all(Tank-fermented and 50 per cent Ageworthy. $35 sweet, with a slightly oily judges. $22oak-aged). $29.90 Cable Bay Waiheke Island texture and lush, deliciously Cable Bay Waiheke IslandMarsden Bay of Islands Viognier 2013 HHH concentrated peach and apricot Rosé 2013 HHHPinot Gris 2013 HHH Mouthfilling and dry, with flavours. “Big, rich, cuddly,” Bright pink blend of merlot (70Full-bodied style from Northland, some exotic notes on the nose. enthused one judge. $45 per cent) and malbec (30 perwith good depth of ripe, pear-like Barrel-fermented style, currently Marsden Late Harvest cent). Lively, berryish flavoursflavours and a distinct splash restrained, with a well-rounded Muscat 2013 HHH in an easy-drinking style, withof sweetness giving an easy- finish. $29.90 Pale, sweet and soft Northland good depth and a slightly sweet,drinking appeal. $27 wine, light-bodied, with gentle, smooth finish. $23 pear-like flavours, showing good ripeness and delicacy. $18 May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 117

NORTH ISLANDSYRAH PINOT NOIR MERLOT & BLENDS OTHER REDS5 TASTED 3 TASTED 4 TASTED 4 TASTED4 AWARDED 3 AWARDED 2 AWARDED 3 AWARDEDSyrah thrives in the warmth Murdoch James Estate Cable Bay Five Hills Coopers Creek SV Huapaiof the north, especially on Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2 Merlot Malbec 2012 HHH Guido in Velvet PantsWaiheke Island, where it Elegant, gently oaked red with Youthful Waiheke Island blend of Montepulciano 2012has partly replaced merlot plum and dried herb flavours. merlot (67 per cent) and malbec HHH1/2and cabernet sauvignon. The Medium-bodied style, drinking (33 per cent). Medium to full- Full-coloured, tight and youthful2012 growing season was well now. $33 (A, US) bodied, with bright, fullish colour, wine, with strong, vibrantchallenging, but the small, plum and slight herb flavours, berry and spice flavours. Bestlate harvest yielded some The Elder Martinborough showing good density, some drinking 2015+. (13 per centexcellent reds. Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2 complexity, and a firm finish. $38 malbec.) $29.50 Floral, with attractive plum, Soho Revolver 2012 HHH Cable Bay EdwardsAwaroa Waiheke Island strawberry, spice and dried herb Youthful Waiheke Island blend Vineyard Waiheke IslandSyrah 2012 HHHH flavours, savoury, complex and of merlot (61 per cent), malbec Malbec 2012 HHHFull-coloured and floral, with moderately rich. Forward and and cabernet franc. Fullish Deeply coloured, with strong,concentrated, peppery, already drinking well. $60 colour, with strong berry and youthful berry and spice flavours,slightly herbal flavours, finely herb flavours, showing some and a well-rounded, smoothbalanced tannins and a lingering Murdoch James Blue Rock complexity, and good ageing finish. Enjoyable young. $45finish. $34 Martinborough Pinot Noir potential. $40 (A, UK) Okahu Cabernet Franc 2011 HHH Merlot Malbec 2009 HHHSoho Valentina Waiheke Attractive, mid-weight style, Generous Northland blend,Island Syrah 2012 HHHH showing good complexity. Soft barrel-aged for 18 months.Generous, ageworthy red, and rounded, with a developed Shows some fruit freshness,youthful, with excellent depth bouquet. $48 (A, US) with good complexity. Drinkingof plummy, spicy flavour, good well now. $27complexity and a lingering CABERNETfinish. $45 SAUVIGNON & BLENDSAwaroa Melba PeachReserve Waiheke Island 2 TASTEDSyrah 2012 HHH1/2 1 AWARDEDFloral bouquet, with someherbal notes, and very satisfying Awaroa Cabernet Merlot star ratings depth of red berry, pepper and Malbec 2011 HHHspice flavours, showing good Mid-weight, cabernet sauvignon- Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofcomplexity. $56 based blend (70 per cent), with excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. fullish, slightly developed colour. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryCable Bay Waiheke Island Savoury, with blackcurrant, herb professionals and are compared in peerSyrah 2012 HHH and spice flavours and balanced classes by three judges.Fullish colour, with plenty of tannins. $34 CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,smooth, slightly herbal flavour, a major mail-order business.some savoury complexity CD Cellar door price.and gentle tannins. Enjoyable CDO Cellar door only.young. $35 SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 152. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.aujudges Michael Cooper Simon Nunns John Buchanan Winestate’s New Zealand editor Winemaker for Coopers John is a co-founder is author of the internationally Creek, which he joined and director of acclaimed Wine Atlas of New in 1997, Simon has a Mount Riley Wines in Zealand and the annual Michael postgraduate diploma in Marlborough. Based Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide to New viticulture and oenology in Auckland, he is a Zealand Wines. In the 2004 from Lincoln University widely experienced New Year Honours, Michael and is a senior judge at senior judge in New was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand national Zealand national wine New Zealand Order of Merit for wine competitions. competitions. services to wine writing.118 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

regional tastingMay/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 119

M I C H A EL C O O PE RA pair of Central Otago rieslings - one barely a year old, ½ Crossroads Winemakersthe other still unfolding after five years - are among the Collection Hawke’s Bayhighlights of the latest releases. A classic Marlborough Auburn Bannockburn Syrah 2012 HHHH1/2sauvignon blanc, a stunning, Alsace-like gewurztraminer Central Otago Riesling Classy, deeply colouredfrom Marlborough and a super-stylish Waiheke Island 2013 HHHH1/2 Gimblett Gravels red withsyrah are among the other five-star releases. Finely poised, racy, medium style vibrant blackcurrant and spice (24 grams/litre of residual sugar), flavours, ripe and concentrated.Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. with good acid spine and fresh, Rich and silky textured, withWines available in export markets are shown as penetrating lemon, apple and impressive complexity and(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). spice flavours. Full of youthful obvious cellaring potential. vigour and potential. $35 (A) $39.95 (UK) Passage Rock Reserve Auburn Lowburn Central Waiheke Island Syrah Otago Riesling 2013 Giesen Riesling 2013Auburn Bendigo Central 2012 HHHHH HHHH1/2 HHHH1/2Otago Riesling 2013 Densely coloured, powerful but Light-bodied, sweetish style Delicious, bargain-priced wine,HHHHH graceful red, with concentrated (75 grams/litre of residual blended from Waipara (63 perClassic young riesling, with low blackcurrant, plum, spice sugar), with a strong surge of cent) and Marlborough (37 peralcohol (9 per cent/vol), incisive and nutty oak flavours. lemony, slightly spicy flavours, cent) grapes. Light-bodied andlemon and lime flavours, and Finely textured and smooth- tangy acidity, and excellent gently sweet (44 grams/litresome peach and apricot notes. flowing, with a rounded finish delicacy and length. Drink now of residual sugar), with lovelyVery fresh and racy on the and excellent harmony. A or cellar. $35 (A) lemon, lime and slight peachpalate, with lovely poise and “forward” vintage - drink now Ataahua Waipara Riesling flavours, strong, zesty andlength. $35 (A) or cellar. $55 2013 HHHH1/2 youthful. $19 (A, UK, US) Scented, with rich passionfruit, Jackson Estate GumAurum Central Otago Dry peach, lime and spice flavours. Emperor VineyardRiesling 2009 HHHHH A delicious drink-young style, Marlborough Pinot NoirClassy wine, revealing gently sweet, with impressive 2011 HHHH1/2excellent bottle-aged concentration, harmony and Graceful, perfumed red, withcomplexity. Fragrant, lemony, personality. $24 youthful, ruby colour and lovelylimey and toasty bouquet, Aurum Central Otago flow across the palate. Stillwith searching, dry flavours, Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 developing but delicious now,showing real delicacy and Powerful, mouthfilling and with sweet-fruit delights anddepth. Still unfolding. Great firm, with loads of plummy, vibrant cherry/plum flavours,value. $23 (A) spicy flavour, seasoned with savoury and supple. $50 (A, nutty oak. Savoury, with hints UK, US)Jackson Estate Stich Spy Valley Envoy of herbs and dark chocolate. Jackson Estate Shelter BeltMarlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Youthful, ageworthy wine, Marlborough ChardonnayBlanc 2013 HHHHH Gewurztraminer offering good value. $35 (A) 2012 HHHH1/2A top vintage of this Wairau 2013 HHHHH Aurum Madeleine Central Fragrant, complex, barrel-Valley classic, showing Estate-grown in the Waihopai Otago Pinot Noir 2012 fermented style, mouthfillingexcellent weight, complexity Valley, hand-picked and HHHH1/2 and creamy-textured, with rich,and depth. Fresh and full- fermented in small oak A “feminine” style, silky, subtle citrusy, peachy, nutty flavoursbodied, with a strong surge vessels, this is classy stuff. and elegant. Ruby hued, floral and a long, harmonious finish.of ripe melon, lime and Bright, light lemon/green, it and supple, with ripe, sweet- Drink now or cellar. Fine value.passionfruit flavours, crisp, dry is an enticingly perfumed and fruit characters and an array of $26 (A, UK, US)and long. $24 (A, UK, US) fleshy, medium style, with red berry, plum, spice and nut concentrated stonefruit, spice flavours, showing excellent and ginger flavours, showing delicacy and harmony. Drink lovely complexity and harmony. now or cellar. $65 Delicious drinking from now onwards. $31 (A)120 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

recent releasesJohn Forrest Collection Spy Valley EnvoyGimblett Gravels Hawke’s Marlborough ChardonnayBay Syrah 2009 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2Sturdy, still-youthful wine, with Tight, elegant wine, stilldeep, slightly purple-flushed very youthful. Estate-growncolour and a strong surge of in the Waihopai Valley andblackcurrant, plum and spice barrel-aged for 18 months, itflavours. Vibrantly fruity and has mouthfilling body, deepfinely textured, with good grapefruit-like flavours, withdensity, it should be very long- hints of limes and nuts, alived. $65 (UK) minerally streak and a longJohn Forrest Collection finish. Still a baby, it’s a classicWaitaki Valley Chardonnay cellaring style; open 2015+.2011 HHHH1/2 $41 (A, UK)Drinking well now, this NorthOtago wine is fragrant andmouthfilling, with rich, citrusy,mealy, buttery flavours andfinely integrated oak. Showingexcellent concentration andgood acid spine, it’s very openand expressive, with a longfinish. $50John Forrest Collection Spy Valley EnvoyWaitaki Valley Pinot Noir Marlborough Sauvignon2011 HHHH1/2 Blanc 2012 HHHH1/2Attractively scented, with Tight, elegant and youthful.plum, herb, spice and nut Mouthfilling body, with aflavours, showing excellent complex bouquet and vibrantcomplexity. Savoury and ripe, melon, grapefruit, lime andwith good tannin support. nut flavours, gently seasonedAlready delicious, but probably with oak. Very ageworthyat its best 2015+. $65 (UK) wine, hand-picked and barrel-Main Divide Waipara fermented. $31 (A, UK, US)Valley Pinot Gris2013 HHHH1/2Highly fragrant, peachy, slightlyhoneyed and spicy bouquet.Weighty, with a slightly oilytexture, gentle sweetness andconcentrated, ripe stonefruitand spice flavours. Stillyouthful. Great value fromPegasus Bay. $19.95 (A, UK)Passage Rock ReserveWaiheke Island Viognier2013 HHHH1/2Bold style, with substantialbody (14.5 per cent alc/vol),ripe, sweet fruit characters,strong, peachy, toasty flavoursand a slightly creamy texture.Youthful, with a dry, well-rounded finish. Currentlyslightly oaky; open 2015+. $40 Spy Valley Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2013 HHHH1/2 Exotically perfumed wine full of personality. Rich, ripe and rounded, with substantial body (14 per cent alc/vol) and a powerful surge of peach, ginger and spice flavours, dryish and very harmonious. Fine value. $24 (A, UK, US) May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 121

MICHAEL COOPERWaimea Nelson Pinot Gris Catalina Sounds Giesen The Brothers Invivo Organic2013 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough SauvignonFinely poised, tight and elegant. Blanc 2013 HHHH Blanc 2013 HHHH Blanc 2013 HHHHMouthfilling, very fresh and Mouthfilling, crisp, sweet- Freshly herbaceous blend of Mouthfilling and sweet-fruited,youthful, with a slightly oily fruited and lively, with very Wairau Valley (57 per cent) and with crisp grapefruit, lime andtexture, strong peach, pear and subtle oak handling (5 per cent Awatere Valley (43 per cent) spice flavours. Still youthful,lychee flavours, hints of ginger fermentation in puncheons and fruit. Forthright, distinctly cool- with a touch of complexityand spice, and a crisp, slightly foudres) adding complexity to climate style, with gooseberry, (25% per cent barrelsweet finish. Best drinking its grapefruit, melon and lime green capsicum and “tomato fermentation) and a tight, dry,2015+. $24 (UK) flavours. Vibrantly fruity, with a leaf” characters, showing good lingering finish. $20 (A, UK)Waipara Hills Equinox dry, lingering finish. $23 (A) vibrancy and intensity, and a Main Divide WaiparaWaipara Valley Riesling Crossroads Milestone dry, mouth-wateringly crisp Valley Pinot Noir2013 HHHH1/2 Series Hawke’s Bay finish. $25 (A, UK, US) 2011 HHHHFull-bodied, medium style, Chardonnay 2013 HHHH Sturdy, fleshy, silky-texturedestate-grown, hand-picked Fleshy, full-bodied wine, with Glazebrook Marlborough red, full-coloured and sweet-and barrel-fermented. Richly lots of upfront appeal. Peachy, Sauvignon Blanc 2013 fruited, with generous, plummyscented, with generous, slightly creamy and toasty, in HHHH flavours, showing somepeachy, citrusy, spicy flavours, a sweet-fruited, moderately Fresh, full-bodied wine, savoury complexity. Drinkingshowing good complexity complex style, with excellent with excellent drinkability. well now onwards. Fine value.and excellent harmony. Best depth and harmony. Drink now Generous, tropical fruit flavours $24.95 (A, UK, US)drinking 2016+. $35 or cellar. $21 (A, UK) to the fore, with gentle Main Divide Waipara herbaceous notes, finely Valley Sauvignon Blanc Crossroads Milestone balanced acidity and a well- 2013 HHHH Series Hawke’s Bay rounded finish. $20 (A) Very aromatic, medium toAtaahua Waipara Pinot Gewurztraminer full-bodied style, with strongNoir 2012 HHHH 2013 HHHH Haha Marlborough melon, capsicum and limeRuby hued, ageworthy Softly seductive, with Sauvignon Blanc flavours. Shows a distinctlywine, with good density. perfumed, spicy, Turkish 2013 HHHH cool-climate freshness andMouthfilling, with a warm, delight aromas. Full-bodied, Full-bodied and punchy, with pungency, with a crisp, drysavoury palate, strong plummy, with a slightly oily texture, ripe, sweet-fruit characters and finish. $19.95 (A, UK)spicy flavours, fine-grained excellent delicacy and depth of fresh, strong melon, capsicum Mud House Marlboroughtannins and good complexity. lychee and spice flavours, and and lime flavours. Full of GewurztraminerBest drinking 2015+. $37 a gently sweet, smooth finish. youthful impact and great 2013 HHHHAuburn Central Otago Dry Best drinking 2015+. $21 value. $16 (A) Richly perfumed, spicyRiesling 2013 HHHH bouquet. Full-bodied (14.5 perCitrusy, slightly limey and spicy Crossroads Winemakers Invivo Central Otago cent alc/vol), with a slightly oilyflavours, showing excellent Collection Hawke’s Bay Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH texture and good concentrationintensity. Tautly structured Cabernet Merlot Already delicious, this is a of peachy, spicy, slightlywine, slightly austere at this 2012 HHHH weighty (14.5 per cent alc/vol), gingery flavours. Fleshy andstage, with just 5 grams/litre Deeply coloured, youthful very sweet-fruited red, with soft, with drink-young appeal.of residual sugar and high blend, with concentrated, excellent depth of vibrant plum, Top value. $19 (UK)acidity. A strong candidate for blackcurrant-evoking flavours, strawberry and spice flavours,cellaring. $35 (A) hints of plums and herbs, and good complexity and a well-Auburn Pisa Central a strong seasoning of toasty rounded finish. $33 (A, UK)Otago Riesling oak. It shows good richness2013 HHHH and complexity; open 2016+. Invivo Marlborough Pinot Passage Rock GisborneTight, youthful wine, with $39.95 (UK) Gris 2013 HHHH Chardonnay 2013 HHHHcitrusy, peachy, spicy flavours Mouthfilling, medium-dry style, Soft, full-bodied, ripe andthat linger well. Medium Crossroads Winemakers with a slightly oily texture and rounded, in the classic regionalstyle (30 grams/litre of Collection Hawke’s Bay good intensity of fresh peach, style. Rich, peachy, citrusy,residual sugar) with a hint of Chardonnay 2012 HHHH pear and spice flavours. Already toasty flavours, with slightlysherbet, racy acidity and good Slight “gunflint” aromas. drinking well. $20 (A, UK) buttery notes and barrel-harmony. $35 (A) Mouthfilling, with citrus and Invivo Marlborough ferment complexity. AlreadyCatalina Sounds stonefruit flavours, showing Sauvignon Blanc delicious. $25Marlborough Pinot Gris excellent delicacy, complexity 2013 HHHH Passage Rock Waiheke2013 HHHH and harmony. Stylish, youthful Medium-bodied style, with Island Syrah 2012 HHHHMouthfilling style, with peachy, wine; best drinking 2015+. strong, vibrant passionfruit Deeply coloured, mouthfillingslightly spicy flavours, hints $39.95 (UK) and lime flavours to the and smooth, in a stronglyof ginger and apricots, and fore, a herbal undercurrent, varietal style, with blackcurrant,some complexity from barrel Dunnolly Single Vineyard appetising acidity, good drive plum and black pepper flavours,fermentation (17 per cent of Family Estate Waipara through the palate and a rich and rounded. Drink now orthe blend). Opening up well, Valley Pinot Noir 2012 lengthy finish. $20 (A, UK) cellar. $35with balanced acidity and a HHHHlong, dry finish. $25 (A) Full-bodied, generous, sweet- fruited and supple red. Deep ruby, with strong plum and spice flavours, a gentle seasoning of nutty oak, and the substance and structure to mature well. Best drinking 2016+. $35122 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

recent releasesSaint Clair Marlborough Tiki Koro Wanaka Pinot Waipara Hills Marlborough Crossroads MilestonePinot Gris Rosé 2013 HHHH Noir 2012 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Series Hawke’s Bay PinotInviting, pale pink hue. Deeply coloured, fruit-packed 2013 HHHH Gris 2013 HHH1/2“Serious” but seductive, wine, grown at Wanaka, in Freshly herbaceous, slightly Weighty, smooth and creamy-vibrantly fruity blend of Central Otago. Big-bodied nettley bouquet. Grapefruit textured, with very goodpinot gris (89 per cent) and (14.5 per cent alc/vol) and and green capsicum-like depth of ripe peach, pear andpinot noir (11 per cent), with very ripe-tasting, with deep flavours, with some riper, lychee flavours, a hint of oakmouthfilling body and dry plum, spice and cherry tropical fruit notes and a dry, and a dryish finish. Slightlystrawberry, spice, peach and flavours and a well-rounded tangy, lingering finish. A slightly chardonnay-like wine, drinkingapricot flavours, showing finish. A moderately complex, “greener” style than past well now. $21excellent delicacy, vibrancy concentrated wine, already vintages. $22 (A, UK, US) Crossroads Milestoneand harmony. The best vintage delicious, it’s likely to be at its Waipara Hills Waipara Series Hawke’s Bayyet of this label. $22 (UK) best 2015-16. $35 Valley Riesling 2013 HHHH Sauvignon BlancSaint Clair Pioneer Waimea Classic Nelson Tangy, youthful, medium to 2013 HHH1/2Block 12 Lone Riesling 2013 HHHH full-bodied wine, with excellent Very easy-drinking style,Gum Marlborough Punchy, medium-bodied style, depth of citrusy, peachy, limey medium to full-bodied, withGewurztraminer with strong, vibrant lemon, flavours. Vibrantly fruity and ripe, tropical fruit flavours, fresh2013 HHHH apple and spice flavours, a finely balanced, it’s already and vibrant. Subtle and sweet-Softly textured, full-bodied gentle splash of sweetness enjoyable, but also well worth fruited, with satisfying depthwine, with concentrated, and lively acidity. Youthful, with cellaring to 2015+. $22 and a touch of complexity (12ripe pear, lychee and spice good potential. $21 Woollaston Nelson per cent oak-aged). $21flavours, a hint of ginger, a Waimea Nelson Sauvignon Blanc Crossroads Milestonedistinct splash of sweetness Gewurztraminer 2013 HHHH Series Hawke’s Bay Syrahand gentle acidity. Already 2013 HHHH Fresh and full-bodied, with 2012 HHH1/2delicious. $25 (UK) Enticingly perfumed, with ripe, tropical fruit flavours and Floral, supple, strongly varietalSound of White mouthfilling body and a herbaceous undercurrent. wine from the GimblettMarlborough Sauvignon concentrated lychee, pear, Good acid spine, with a touch Gravels, with peppery aromasBlanc 2013 HHHH ginger and spice flavours. of complexity (10 per cent and good depth of vibrantFull-bodied, dry wine, with Youthful, medium-dry style, fermentation in old oak) and plum, berry, herb and spicestrong, ripe, tropical fruit strongly varietal, with gentle excellent vigour and intensity. flavours. Enjoyable now, butflavours, slightly nutty and acidity and good harmony. Certified organic. $23 still youthful. $25leesy notes adding complexity $24 (UK) Crossroads Winemakersand a dry, finely textured Waimea Nelson Sauvignon ½ Collection Hawke’s Bayfinish. Worth cellaring. Gris 2013 HHHH Cabernet Franc(Estate-grown in the Waihopai Weighty, gently herbaceous Auburn Northburn 2012 HHH1/2Valley and fermented and wine, with excellent depth and Central Otago Riesling Youthful, full-bodied and suppleaged in puncheons and harmony. Vibrant and subtle, 2013 HHH1/2 Gimblett Gravels red (14 perfoudres.) $27 (A) with youthful melon, lime and Light, gently sweet style (41 cent cabernet sauvignon), withSpinyback Nelson spice flavours and a smooth, grams/litre of residual sugar), fullish colour and moderatelySauvignon Blanc finely balanced, dryish finish. with some earthy notes amid rich berry, spice, herb and nut2013 HHHH An auspicious debut. $30 its strong, citrusy, appley flavours. Slightly leathery andPunchy, vibrant, medium to Waimea Nelson Viognier flavours. $35 (A) savoury, with good complexity.full-bodied wine, with youthful 2013 HHHH Borthwick Vineyard $39.95 (UK)impact. Melon, green capsicum Full-bodied, generous wine, Wairarapa Pinot Gris Crowded Houseand lime flavours, with good with strong, citrusy, peachy 2012 HHH1/2 Marlborough Sauvignonacid spine and a smooth finish. flavours, hints of pears and Full-bodied, weighty, dry Blanc 2013 HHH1/2Drinking well now and well- lychees, a minerally streak style, with satisfying depth Fresh, lively, strongly varietalpriced. $18 (UK) and a slightly sweet, creamy- of stonefruit, pear and spice wine, with punchy melon,Waimea Nelson Sauvignon smooth finish. It’s enjoyable flavours, fresh acidity and a lime and green capsicumBlanc 2013 HHHH young; drink now or cellar. $24 touch of complexity. Drinking flavours, appetisingly crisp andRacy, medium-bodied Waipara Hills Equinox well now, it’s a good “food” dry. $20 (A)wine, with good intensity of Waipara Valley Pinot Gris wine. $24 (A, UK, US) Dunnolly Single Vineyardtropical fruit and herbaceous 2013 HHHH Family Estate Waiparaflavours, appetisingly crisp and Powerful, fleshy style, Valley Chardonnayvibrant. $21 (UK) estate-grown, hand-harvested 2013 HHH1/2Te Mania Nelson and barrel-fermented. Mouthfilling, creamy-texturedGewurztraminer Weighty and dryish, with wine, tank and barrel-2013 HHHH deep peach, pear, lychee fermented. ModeratelyPerfumed, full-bodied, slightly and spice flavours, still very complex, with very goodsweet style, with excellent youthful. Open 2015+. $35 depth of grapefruit and peachdepth of peach, pear, lychee flavours, a hint of biscuity oakand spice flavours. Strongly and a rounded finish. Alreadyvarietal, with a hint of apricot, drinking well. $22 (A)a well-rounded finish andgood harmony. Drink now orcellar. $22 (A) May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 123

MICHAEL COOPEREight Point Vineyards Jackson Estate Vintage Passage Rock Waiheke Spinyback Nelson GrunerMarlborough Sauvignon Widow Marlborough Pinot Island Pinot Gris Veltliner 2013 HHH1/2Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 Noir 2012 HHH1/2 2013 HHH1/2 Fresh, lively, medium-bodiedFull-bodied, with clearly Full-coloured, mouthfilling, Fresh and full-bodied, with wine, with vibrant lemon,herbaceous, melon and green sweet-fruited red, savoury a sliver of sweetness amid peach and spice flavours,capsicum flavours, showing and supple, with some earthy, its strong peach, pear and showing very good depth andvery good freshness, vigour slightly rustic notes, and very lychee flavours. Ripe style, a crisp, dry finish. Good “food”and depth. Drinking well now. good body and flavour depth. with slightly creamy notes and wine. $21 (UK)(From Invivo.) $17 (A, UK) $36 (A, UK, US) gentle acidity. Lots of drink- Spinyback Nelson Pinot young appeal. $25 Gris 2013 HHH1/2Farmgate Hawke’s Bay Mud House Waipara Peter Yealands Hawke’s Very easy-drinking style,Chenin Blanc 2009 Valley Riesling Bay Merlot 2013 HHH1/2 medium-bodied, with goodHHH1/2 2013 HHH1/2 Full-coloured and mouthfilling, depth of fresh, peachy, slightlyProbably at its peak. Full- Crisp, tightly structured wine, with lots of ripe, plummy, spicy flavours and an off-dry,bodied and peachy, with a with fresh, citrusy, slightly slightly spicy flavour and a smooth finish. $18 (UK)toasty, bottle-aged complexity, spicy flavours that linger well. hint of dark chocolate. Fruit- Spinyback Nelson Pinota sliver of sweetness and good Lively, medium-dry style, still driven style, finely balanced Noir 2012 HHH1/2acid spine. Ripe style, starting very youthful and priced right. for good, early drinking. Ruby hued, full-bodied red,to soften and drinking well $19 (UK, US) Priced sharply. $17 (UK) with ripe, spicy, slightlynow. (From Ngatarawa.) $22 Ostler Caroline’s Waitaki Peter Yealands Hawke’s nutty flavours, a hint ofGlazebrook Hawke’s Bay Valley Pinot Noir Bay Syrah 2012 HHH1/2 herbs, savoury notes addingChardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 2011 HHH1/2 Full-coloured, with a fresh, complexity, moderately firmFruit-focused style, mouthfilling Ruby hued, with a fragrant spicy bouquet. Mouthfilling, tannins and very satisfyingand dry, with vibrant, citrusy, bouquet of herbs and spices. vibrantly fruity red, partly barrel- depth. A good buy. $21 (UK)peachy flavours, balanced Mouthfilling, with strong aged, with generous plum and Te Mania Nelson Pinotacidity and slightly biscuity flavours of green olives and black pepper flavours, gentle Noir Rosé 2013 HHH1/2notes adding a touch of spices, and fine-grained tannins. tannins and good length. Organic wine, from hand-complexity. Already drinking Shows impressive depth, but Enjoyable young. $19 picked pinot noir. Pink/pale red,well. $20 (A) also a slight lack of optimal Richmond Plains Nelson medium-bodied and smooth,Haha Marlborough Pinot ripeness. $59 (A, UK, US) Blanc de Noir with good depth of red berry,Noir 2013 HHH1/2 Passage Rock Waiheke 2013 HHH1/2 strawberry and spice flavours,Highly attractive, vibrantly Island Sisters Pale white wine - with the slightly earthy notes, gentlefruity, smooth red, with deep 2012 HHH1/2 merest hint of pink - from tannins and a dryish finish. $20ruby colour and generous Deeply coloured blend of hand-picked pinot noir. Medium (A, UK, US)cherry, plum and spice flavours, merlot (41 per cent), cabernet to full-bodied, with plenty of Te Mania Nelson Rieslinggently seasoned with oak (60 sauvignon (34 per cent), syrah peachy, spicy flavour, a hint of 2013 HHH1/2per cent barrel-aged). Drink (19 per cent) and malbec (6 per apricots and a finely balanced, Youthful wine, tight andnow or cellar. $20 (A) cent). Full-bodied, with strong smooth finish. Deliciously easy punchy, with very good depthJackson Estate Somerset blackcurrant, spice and herb drinking. $20 (A, UK, US) of crisp, off-dry, citrusy, slightlyVineyard Marlborough flavours, and nutty oak adding Saint Clair Godfrey’s appley flavours, and hints ofPinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 complexity. Drinking well now Creek Reserve spices and ginger. Drink nowRuby hued, supple red, with onwards. $25 Marlborough Pinot Gris or cellar. $20 (A, US)good texture and moderately 2013 HHH1/2 Waimea Nelson Pinot Noirconcentrated, cherry and slight Fleshy, dry style, with pear 2012 HHH1/2herb flavours. Not especially and lychee flavours, woven Deep ruby, mouthfilling andrich, but very charming. $50 with crisp acidity. Fresh and savoury, with cherry, plum, youthful, with good drive herb, spice and nut flavours, star ratings  through the palate. Worth showing good depth and cellaring. $26 complexity. Well worthThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Saint Clair Marlborough cellaring. $30excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Chardonnay 2013 HHH1/2 Waimea Nelson PinotAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Vibrantly fruity style, placing Rosé 2013 HHH1/2professionals and are compared in peer its accent on strong, citrusy, Vivacious, bright pink/paleclasses by three judges. peachy flavours. Well- red wine, with a fresh, floralCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, integrated toasty oak (French bouquet. Light and lively,a major mail-order business. and American), with a crisp, with fresh, plummy, cherryishCD Cellar door price. smooth finish. Lots of easy- flavours, a sliver of sweetnessCDO Cellar door only. drinking charm. $22 and crisp acidity. DeliciousSO Sold out. Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice young. $24$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Marlborough Gruner Contact information pg 152. Veltliner 2013 HHH1/2 Aromatic, with lively, RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). moderately concentrated,For a complete list of what we tasted citrusy, slightly spicy flavoursplease refer to www.winestate.com.au and a dry, finely balanced finish. A versatile “food” wine, already drinking well. $19.50124 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014



MICHAEL COOPER Waipara Hills Waipara Mount Brown Estates Valley Chardonnay Waipara Valley Sauvignon126 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014 2013 HHH1/2 Blanc 2013 HHH Lemon-scented, mouthfilling Crisp, medium-bodied wine, wine, ripe and rounded. Full- with punchy, green-edged, flavoured, slightly peachy and herbaceous flavours to the fore, spicy, with a hint of toasty some riper, tropical fruit notes oak, and good depth and and a dry finish. Priced sharply. harmony. $22 $14 (A, UK) Waipara Hills Waipara Mud House Marlborough Valley Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2013 HHH 2013 HHH1/2 Very lightly oaked style, lemon- Easy-drinking, fruit-driven style, scented, mouthfilling and dry, full-bodied and ruby hued, with citrusy, slightly peachy with strong, plummy, slightly and spicy flavours, a hint of cherryish flavours, a hint of butterscotch, fresh acidity, and herbs and gentle tannins. plenty of drink-young appeal. Delicious young. $22 (A) $19 (UK)  Mud House Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 HHH Ara Pathway Marlborough Fresh, finely balanced wine, Pinot Noir 2012 HHH peachy and slightly sweet, with Bright ruby, vibrantly fruity and hints of limes and ginger, and a supple, with plummy flavours smooth finish. Enjoyable young. to the fore, hints of spices, $19 (A, UK, US) tamarilloes and toasty oak, and Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice good depth and harmony. An Marlborough Chardonnay attractive, drink-young style. 2013 HHH $22 (UK, US) Vibrantly fruity style, with good, youthful impact. Very Black Cottage fresh, ripe, peachy flavours, Marlborough Pinot Noir with a seasoning of toasty oak. 2013 HHH Satisfying, easy drinking. $19.50 Fruit-driven style from a Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice single vineyard in the Wairau Marlborough Pinot Gris Valley. Deep ruby, fruity and 2013 HHH smooth, with ripe berry and Lively, drink-young style, with plum flavours, a restrained oak good depth and delicacy of influence, good depth and lots citrus fruit and pear flavours, of drink-young appeal. $24 dry, crisp and mouthfilling. $19.50 (A) Borthwick Vineyard Spinyback Nelson Riesling Wairarapa Riesling 2012 2013 HHH HHH Light, crisp, medium-dry style, Medium-bodied, off-dry with lemony, appley flavours, style, with crisp, citrusy, hints of passionfruit and slightly limey and gingery spices, and good vigour and flavours, showing good depth depth. $18 (UK) and a touch of bottle-aged Te Mania Koha Nelson complexity. $22 (A, UK, US) Ice Riesling 2013 (375ml) HHH Glazebrook Hawke’s Bay Light, lemony and appley, with Syrah 2013 HHH good depth of gently sweet Still very youthful, strongly flavour, crisp and harmonious. varietal red, with deep, purple- Already enjoyable. $22 (A) flushed colour. Mouthfilling and Toi Toi Clutha Central vibrantly fruity, with good depth Otago Pinot Noir of fresh plum and black pepper 2013 HHH flavours, and gentle tannins. An enjoyable drink-young style, Best drinking 2015+. $20 ruby hued, with vibrant plum and cherry flavours, hints of toasty Haha Marlborough oak and gentle tannins. Briefly Chardonnay 2013 HHH oak-aged, it’s still very youthful; Attractive drink-young style, open 2015+. $27 (A, UK) lightly oaked, with a slightly creamy bouquet. Mouthfilling, with vibrant citrus and stonefruit flavours, fresh acidity and a crisp, dry finish. $18 (A)

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDMay/June 2014 Issue 135 COMPLIMENTARY COPYIN THIS ISSUE The Wine & spirit Insider is a Promotional guide from theNew Releases liquor trade to the consumer. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411ANDTOP 40BEST VALUE BUYS UNDER $20 WWW.AALDERING.CO.ZA STELLENBOSCH SOUTH AFRICA

255 TASTED145 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESThis new release tasting was more about lots of good drinking Skin Deep Wines Other Whiteexamples rather than prima donnas that dazzled the judges Love Lost McLaren Varietals &(although there were a few of these also). The standout wine Vale Moscato Blendscategory was the riesling group, while with reds we were NV HHHsurprised at how the merlots came up. This time with so Very perfumed floral/ 12 TASTEDmany shiraz wines submitted from the 2012 vintage we judged lolly-like bouquet whichthem within price categories. Not surprisingly the over $40 follows through to the 7 AWARDEDgroup excelled, but the $20-$40 line-up also offered great very sweet palate. $18.50consistency and quality. A range of varietals here, with the best coming to the fore. Sparkling McLaren Vale III Train Trak Sparkling Carpene Malvolti Peter Lehmann Associates Squid Yarra Valley Pinot DOCG Extra Dry Margaret Barossa 10 TASTED Ink McLaren Vale Chardonnay 2008 Italy Prosecco Semillon 2009 6 AWARDED Sparkling Shiraz NV HHH1/2 NV HHH HHHHH The judges found the HHHH1/2 Simple style that’s Clean yeastiness blends An iridescent golden sparkling reds and the A classic sparkling delicate and elegant, with sweet pear/apple green, with developed, prosecco wines to be the shiraz style, with lovely and yet has subtle fruit characters. Clean toasty, buttery highlights here. “With depth and concentration complexity. Good fruit and balanced. $24.99 characters on the nose sparkling wines it is of rich, ripe, cherry-like characters and long, Tenafeate Creek One and a classic toasty/ good to see some yeast fruit and plenty of clean finish. $26 Tree Hill Sparkling citrus semillon palate, influence which was serious oak, with good Taylor Ferguson Shiraz NV HHH with lovely balance from generally lacking in this balance of tannins. King Valley Prosecco Complex and the gentle acidity. $32 group,” said one judge. “A big, flavoursome NV HHH flavoursome, with mouthful”. $55 Gentle candied apple-like juicy plum fruit, drying The Wine SocietyThe Wine & Spirit Insider aromas and hints of tannins and mocha-like Premium SelectionIssue Number 136 peach and apple flavours. nuances. $25 Hunter ValleyMay/June 2014 Fine bead. $14.99 VerdelhoCover photograph 2013 HHH1/2Aalderling Lodge, An attractive wine withStellenbosch, South Africa hints of tropical fruit and lemon-like aromas and flavours, and showing a nice line of acidity. $14.99128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingZonte’s Footstep The Indigo Secret Mt Monster Mother of Pearl Brygon EstateLove Symbol Fleurieu Village Beechworth Limestone Coast Wrattonbully Martha’s Lane SouthPeninsula Savagnin Rousanne 2013 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Coonawarra Australia Sauvignon2013 HHH1/2 Good lift to the nose. 2013 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2013 HHHCitrussy aromas, with Nicely structured, Subdued aromas with 2013 HHH Full-on tropical style,a green floral lift and well-balanced palate, a lifted complexity. Fresh, lifted and tropical, with good varietal fruittight minerally palate with good varietal Good palate structure, with some sweetness underscored by gentlethat’s nicely balanced expression. $30 balance and length, but a high level of acidity acidity. $12.99with decent length of with mid-palate to balance. $19 Jip Jip Rocksacid. $18 Sauvignon sweetness. $15.95 PadthawayPolka Dot Crispy Blanc & GMH Adelaide Sauvignon BlancWhite Clare Valley Blends Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHHViognier 2013 HHH 2013 HHH1/2 A flinty, grassy style,A fine, fresh varietal all 20 TASTED Fresh and very with a lovely fresh,jasmine and orange, 10 AWARDED flavoursome, and sitting crisp palate full of zestywith subtle aromas and in the capsicum and flavours. $19.95nice palate weight. $18 A number of wines green pea spectrum, Oldbury ReserveFox Creek McLaren here lacked varietal with touches of grassy Cool ClimateVale Vermentino expression. “The ones character. $18 Southern Highlands2013 HHH that standout have real Pemberton by Sauvignon BlancDelicate varietal varietal lift,” noted one Barwick Estates 2013 HHHexpression with floral judge. “The Australian 5 Trees Western Nice combinationundertones. Quite versions are more Australia Sauvignon of guava and kiwiintense. Be great with restrained than the Blanc Semillon fruit characters. Welloysters! $23 punch you get from the 2013 HHH1/2 structured, with goodGapsted Limited Kiwi classics.” A good herbaceous nose acid spine. $22Release King Valley and lively tropical palateFiano 2013 HHH that’s complex, withA great food wine, lively acidity, drive andcomplex and almost persistence. $24gamey, with a lean,flinty, mineral spine. $23 ALDILiquor aldiliquor.com.au Over 200 wine, beer and spirits are available at your fingertips from our every day range and exciting special buys. Order now on your smartphone, tablet or desktop for quality liquor delivered straight to your door. free metro delivery when you spend over $300† Delivery charges are on a per case basis. (†Excludes Beer and RTD’s. This offer is valid for selected Eastern Seaboard Delivery locations only.)ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18.On-line sales made pursuant to the Authority of packaged liquor licence no: LIQP770010278 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129

NEW RELEASES Woollaston Nelson Riesling & NZ Sauvignon Blanc Blends Australia’s 2013 HHH first organic An elegant expression 10 TASTED of the variety - a crisp 6 AWARDED certifier and flavoursome wine. $23 NZ A lot to like here, Proud sponsor of the Fox Creek Shadow’s with some standouts Australian Organic Run McLaren Vale generally coming Sauvignon Blanc from the defined cool- Wine of the Year 2012 HHH climate regions. Interesting style www.nasaa.com.au -some obvious age. Slightly oily nose and intense, sweet, varietal flavours. $14.90 Robert Oatley Gotham Clare Finisterre Valley Riesling 2013 Pemberton HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc A decent example of the 2012 HHH variety, with classic lime/ A light, slightly fumé-like floral characters on both style - there’s a hint of the nose and palate, and wood and some gentle hugely complex with acidity. $32.95 steely acidity threading through. “Built for Pinot Gris/ longevity.” $14 Grigio Peter Lehmann 7 TASTED Wigan Eden Valley 2 AWARDED Riesling 2009 HHHHH One judge was surprised A classic toasty/ to see the number of honeyed aged riesling, gris wines here, saying with an “awesome” that the more racy, fresh nose and great length of and lively grigio styles austere toasty, buttery are more suited to the lime flavours with good Australian climate, while acid backbone. “A gem,” gris work for cooler New according to one Zealand regions. judge. $32 Possingham and Summers Adelaide Pinot Gris 2013 HHH1/2 A very subtle, lively and well-made wine showing surprising richness and excellent varietal expression. $18 Blackbilly Adelaide Swan Haven Reserve Pinot Gris 2013 HHH Victoria Riesling A lift of apple and Gewurztraminer pear aromas, and 2013 HHHH nicely balanced palate; A slightly “grapey” style. some viscosity and Lovely fresh, spicy, sweetness. $18 tropical lift to the nose and slightly sweet but balanced palate. Needs to be served chilled. $18130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingClaymore Tricky Barwick EstatesClare Valley Riesling Black Label Margaret2013 HHH River ChardonnayAn honest citrussy style 2013 HHH1/2of riesling, with subtle A purity of white peachhoneyed notes wrapped aromas nicely layeredin gentle acidity. $18 with oak. Crisp and livelyWoollaston in the mouth, with goodNelson NZ Riesling flavour length. $322013 HHH Queen AdelaideA somewhat drier style South Easternalready showing some Australiakero-like development. ChardonnayGood fruit. Good 2013 HHHflavour. $23 NZ A pretty candied pineapple bouquet and well-structured, sweet, soft palate. $7.99 Crossroads Brygon Estate Winemakers South Australia Collection Hawkes Chardonnay Bay NZ Chardonnay 2013 HHH 2012 HHHH1/2 Candied sweet melon Lovely layers of savoury/ aromas and attractive toasty/lemon fruit on the integration of peach and nose. Excellent balance lemon flavours. $12.99 and depth of soft lemon fruit on a well-structured Brygon Estate palate. Excellent length Martha’s Lane South and softness. $39.95 Australia Chardonnay Bowen Estate 2013 HHH Coonawarra A lively, green wine, Chardonnay seamlessly balanced, 2013 HHHH with good pineapple fruit A classic chablis expression. $12.99 aperitif style, with goodPatrick of amount of buttery, Katherine Hills SouthCoonawarra Estate sweet/sour fruit and Eastern AustraliaCoonawarra Riesling pleasant cashew, oak Chardonnay2013 HHH influence. Good ageing 2013 HHHSlightly developed, off- potential. $24 Attractive, bright, citrusdry commercial style, Taylors St Andrews nose and long, well-with steely line of acidity. Single Vineyard balanced, melon rind-likeA good wine. $29 Release Clare fruit palate. $17.99 Valley ChardonnayChardonnay 2013 HHHH Blackbilly Adelaide Toasty aromas with Chardonnay31 TASTED hints of ripe melons. 2013 HHH16 AWARDED Attractive concentration A full, rounded style - and balance of citrus, soft and pleasant,Lots of borderline wines peach and oak on the with ferment aromashere. The better wines well-structured palate. and fleshy peachhad fruit intensity and flavours. $18appropriate oak and 3-5 $35alcohol balance, with Possingham and Robert Oatleythe lesser wines lacking Summers Adelaide Finisterre Mudgeefruit or freshness, which Chardonnay Chardonnayis a surprise for the 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHH2013 wines. Those who High impact, fruit-driven Light, bright and elegantspent the effort reaped wine - intense and with peach/citrus fruitthe rewards. refreshing, with obvious and smoky oak balanced tropical and citrus-like by the acid. $32.95 fruit elements. $18 GMH Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2012 HHH Attractive integration of developing tropical fruit and toasty oak, with an acid finish. 5+ $18 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 131

NEW RELEASESLa Curio The Three Dark Horses Other Red Hand Crafted Tenafeate CreekSuffragette McLaren McLaren Vale Varietals & by Geoff Hardy Basket Press OneVale Chardonnay Grenache Rosé Blends South Australia Tree Hill Grenache2012 HHH 2013 HHH1/2 Montepulciano 2012 HHHA lovely, fuller style. Soft pink hues, pretty 22 TASTED 2012 HHH1/2 Medium bodied, withGood length of melon cherry nose with 11 AWARDED Spicy lifted bouquet intense black andfruit and toasty oak a gamey note and A mixed group both and nicely weighted, raspberry-like fruit.characters. At its delicate, drying, mid- in varietal range and dark cherry palate, with Good freshness andpeak. $21 weight palate. $19.99 quality of wine. Some chocolaty oak and lovely structure. $25 good examples pop-up grippy tannins. $30 Tenafeate CreekWhiskey Gully Wines Wild Oats Rosé across different varieties Caravan South Basket Press OneReserve Chardonnay 2013 HHH1/2 but too many lacked Eastern Australia Tree Hill Petit Verdot2012 HHH Lovely rose-petal pink fruit depth, agreed the Durif 2013 HHH 2012 HHH“An interesting wine.” wine - fresh, flavoursome judges. Hopefully in the Youthful and licorice-like Leathery, herbal bouquetPowerful developing and quite a dry style. future there will be more with fragrant lift of ripe and well-structured,ripe melon fruit and oak Well-balanced. Very understanding of how fruits. “Very durif,” said savoury, fruit palatearomas, and a soft, oaky enjoyable drink. $19.99 these varieties work. one judge. $13.99 that’s high in acid. $25palate. $26 Pinot Noir Cecchi DOCG Clarence Hill Side by SideForester Estate Italy Chianti Adelaide Grenache Langhorne CreekMargaret River 9 TASTED 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHH Malbec 2012 HHHChardonnay 3 AWARDED Earthy and rustic, with Supple and well- Intense crimson colour,2012 HHH fleshy, upfront, dark rounded, with nice earthy blueberry aromasNose dominated by We are improving with berry fruit and nice freshness of spicy, dark and sweet, ripe, fruittoffee/butterscotch this variety but still too tannic grip. “Crying out fruits. $14 palate. Nice drink! $27characters, with many dry red versions. for food,” thought onespicy peachy/oak The best did focus on judge. $21.99 Blackbilly Langhorne Blackbilly McLarenflavours. $37.99 varietal character along Creek Sangiovese Vale Grenache with extra complexity. 2013 HHH Shiraz MourvedreKing’s of Kangaroo A nose like coal tar, with 2011 HHHGround The Hilda Passing Clouds Fools a succulent tannic palate A medium-bodied blend,May Yarra Valley on the Hill Pinot Noir and spicy, plum fruit with pleasant mulberryChardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 flavours. $20 fruit intensity layered2010 HHH Light strawberry and Three Dark Horses with chocolaty notes.Slowly developing cream aromas, and a Langhorne Creek $20melon/peach fruit, with a firmish, well-textured Touriga Nacionalnice nutty balance of oak palate, with lovely 2013 HHH Merlot &and good acid spine. $20 red fruit varietal Interesting example Blends characters. $50 of style. Smoky, plumRosÉ aromas and silky- 10 TASTED Tomich Woodside smooth, sweet fruit 6 AWARDED7 TASTED Vineyard Adelaide palate. $24.992 AWARDED Hills Pinot Noir Zonte’s Footstep A surprisingly strong 2012 HHH Canto Di Lago result. “We are startingGenerally freshness of Fragrant and aromatic, Adelaide Sangiovese to see modern clones,fruit was lacking here and smelling of Barbera 2012 HHH with vineyard maturitybut one wine showed raspberries with sweet, A good style, with nice having an effect,” saidgood depth of fruit, earthy flavours. $25 freshness, chocolaty one judge. “It wasand was kept dry and complexity and savoury good to see depth ofsqueaky clean. Train Trak Yarra elements. $22 balanced fruit in this Valley Pinot Noir mid-weight variety.” 2012 HHH Soft red cherry fruit aromas and flavours, with an earthy, musky touch. Nicely textured palate. $25jud g e s - Day 1Jane Paull Steve Warrick Peter GambettaFreelance wine consultant, Direct marketer and wine Senior winemakerwinemaker and wine consultant. Formerly sales at Yalumba Wines,educator. She is a lecturer and marketing manager for responsible for Heggies andin sensory evaluation and the Hamilton Wine Group. 10 Wrattonbully/Coonawarrafermentation technology years’ experience working in reds. Associate judge atat Adelaide University and McLaren Vale, Coonawarra Canberra and Adelaide winea course trainer for the and the Adelaide Hills. Has shows. Winemaker for overAdvanced Wine Assessment judged at the Adelaide, 20 years. Formally withCourse. Regular national and McLaren Vale and Hobart Orlando and St Hallett.regional show judge. wine shows.132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Rose Hill Estate King Valley Merlot 2012 HHH1/2 Intensely coloured, full-flavoured style, with good varietal fruit expression and a silky smooth texture to the palate. $18 Sedona Estate Dry Auslese Yea Valley Merlot 2012 HHH Smokiness evident on the fragrant plum nose. Medium-bodied palate has weight, length and texture. $34Beresford Beacon CabernetHill South Australia BlendsMerlot 2013 HHHHLovely vibrant red, 7 TASTEDmedium-bodied 5 AWARDEDwine, dark plum fruitaromas and flavours A strong class ofshowing freshness nicely-structured winesand excellent balanced featuring cabernet as thesweetness. $11.90 dominant variety from a strong vintage, with some good winemaking.Brygon EstateMartha’s Lane SouthAustralia Merlot2012 HHH1/2Intensity of spicy darkfruit and coconuttyoak on the nose, and apalate brimming overwith flavour. A touchsweet. $12.99Burk SalterSouth AustraliaMerlot Cabernet2012 HHH1/2A stylish blend, withnicely-structuredelements of merlot andcabernet both evidentand melding togethernicely. $16Burk Salter South Sedona Estate YeaAustralia Merlot Valley Cabernet2012 HHH1/2 Merlot 2012 HHHHLingering, silky smooth, Old-fashioned,perfumed, plum fruit chocolaty style;seamlessly integrated rich, soft and verywith pencil shaving approachable, withoak and fine, powdery savoury elements andtannins. $16 nice texture and length. $24 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 133

NEW RELEASESCurrency Creek Crossroads Jane Brook Kirrihill Vineyard Sedona Estate DryEstate Eternal Winemakers Shovelgate Vineyard Selection Series Auslese Yea ValleySprings Currency Collection Hawkes Margaret River Tullymore Vineyard Cabernet SauvignonCreek Cabernet Bay NZ Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley 2012 HHHSauvignon Malbec Merlot 2012 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Fragrances of darkPetit Verdot Merlot Bright cherry fruit, Leafy, tobacco aromas 2012 HHH fruits and shortbread.2012 HHH1/2 with a pretty spicy lift and fleshy in the mouth, Easy drinking style. Spicy and rich in theSmells like a Cherry and hints of savoury, with fruit-driven flavours, Dark spicy fruit, hints of mouth. Good oakRipe chocolate bar, with toasty oak threaded long ripe tannins and rose petals and intense, integration. $34a plum pudding of a through. $39.95 high level of acid. $35 chocolaty oak. $22 Cradle Vigneronspalate. Deep and supple, 30 Mile Australia Pertaringa Selection McLarenand weighty. $35 Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Understudy Vale Cabernet 2013 HHH McLaren Vale Sauvignon 2012 HHHAtratus South 34 TASTED Fine, leafy aromatics, Cabernet Sauvignon A well-made wine - allEastern Australia 18 AWARDED lovely balance and 2012 HHH blackcurrant and RibenaCabernet Merlot intensity of ripe Medium-bodied wine, fruits, with medicinal2012 HHH1/2 “Cabernet is a classic blackcurrant fruit and with intense, sweet notes and someA fine, lean and leafy variety which should fine, tannic spine. $9.99 chocolate characters, spiciness. $39cabernet nose, and speak of its varietal Taylors Promised dark fruits and vanillin Swings &nicely-structured palate category,” said one Land South Australia oak. $22 Roundaboutsfleshed out with the judge. And certainly the Cabernet Sauvignon Robert Oatley Backyard Storiesmerlot fruit. $15 wines showing varietal 2013 HHH Signature Margaret Margaret RiverShot in the Dark character come to the A nice balance of fine River Cabernet Cabernet SauvignonAustralia Cabernet fore. “But there were too pencil shaving oak, Sauvignon 2012 HHH 2012 HHHShiraz 2013 HHH1/2 many wines here that fleshy briary fruit and A richer, ruby red wine Chocolaty and veryRich blend of chocolate, were just ‘blocky’ reds, green acidity. $13 - very varietal, with fine varietal, with balancinglicorice and currant-like missing the mark.” Red Knot by tannins and good level oak and grainy tannins.characters, with earthy Shingleback of ripeness. $23.99 Just needs time. $39notes and plenty of acid Kirrihill Regional McLaren Vale Side by Side GMH South Australiato support. $9.99 Range Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 HHH 2012 HHHH Intensely coloured, 2012 HHH An earthy style, with A youthful, full-bodied with a blackcurrant A ripeness of black simple raspberry-like wine, with lovely bouquet and ripe, cherry fruit, with varietal fruit, charry oak lush balance of fleshy fruit/spicy oak menthol notes and and a drying finish. $20 fragrant menthol, ripe flavours. $14.95 some chocolaty Train TrakYarra Valley blackcurrant fruit and Skin Deep Wines characters. $27 Cabernet Sauvignon grippy tannins. Needs Love Lost McLaren Barwick Estates 2011 HHH time. $16 Vale Cabernet Black Label Attractive, easy-drinking Sauvignon 2012 HHH Margaret River style, with lollyish fruit Johnny Q Slightly closed, dark, ripe Cabernet Sauvignon and a complexity of oak Coonawarra fruit aromas and simple, 2012 HHH and chocolaty notes. $28 Cabernet Sauvignon drying, dark fruited Well-structured wine. Shaw Family 2012 HHH1/2 palate. $18.50 Ripe, creamy, barrel Vintners Lazy T A full-bodied cabernet - ferment aromas and Single Vineyard lots of ripe blackcurrant flavours, charry oak and McLaren Vale and mulberry fruit, with a fine tannins. $32 Cabernet Sauvignon perfumed note and spicy, 2011 HHH earthy elements. $11.99 Simple, sweet, fruit- driven wine, with a spicy trace and some vanillin oak. $35jud g e s - Day 2 Neil Jericho Bill Hardy General manager Corporate oenologist for Accolade Adam Jarvis of Taylors Wines. Wines (formerly Constellation). 28 years’ Freelance Editor & Former winemaker winemaking experience in places such Writer and on Dan for Brown Brothers as McLaren Vale, Western Australia and Murphy’s Fine Wine in North East Victoria. France. Has judged internationally (France Panel. Decades of Regular fortified and Japan), and been an associate or senior Hospitality & Liquor wine judge. judge at more than 20 state and regional Retail Experience. wine shows in Australia.134 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingShiraz Blends Rose Hill Estate After Hours Oliver Shingleback Shanahans The Old King Valley Shiraz Margaret River Davey Brothers Dog Barossa Valley6 TASTED Durif 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH4 AWARDED A big, rich style of wine, Lighter, leaner and a tad Shiraz 2012 HHHH Quite a simple, slightly with the savouriness aggressive. Excellent Amazing colour, almost sweet style, with a“The classic Aussie of durif perfectly dark fruit characters and black. Big, rich and lovely array of red andshiraz cabernet blend complimenting the fine tannins. $19 very flavoursome wine dark fruit purity. $19.95performs well and here lovely sweetness of the Johnny Q South with plenty of character. 30 Mile Australiawe have some excellent shiraz. $25 Australia Shiraz “Over delivers for Shiraz 2013 HHHexamples and great 2012 HHHH the price,” said one Deep purple winevalue wines.” Shiraz Under A big wine, with good judge. $17.95 with good fruit, fresh $20 varietal definition, Stonemason acidity, warmingShot in the Dark good use of oak and Currency Creek alcohol and developingAustralia Shiraz 25 TASTED leathery and crushed ant Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 complexity. $9.99Petit Sirah 14 AWARDED characters often typical Very juicy and inky wine, Taylors Promised2013 HHHH of this variety. $11.99 simple but full of slightly Land South AustraliaShows much promise. A solid class of value confectionery-like berry Shiraz 2013 HHHLovely dark, juicy, wines here. Here we see fruit, with good oak Rich and concentratedlicoricey fruit. “Either the vibrancy of fresh and handling to balance. $12 varietal fruit, with aserve with food or put rich primary fruit from GMH South woody undertoneit away in the cellar,” the 2013 vintage and Australia Shiraz adding complexity andadvised the judges. consistent quality wines 2012 HHH1/2 interest. $13 from a good 2012 vintage. Huge, almost black Red Knot by 5+ $9.99 and very tightly wound Shingleback Yarrawood Yarra style of shiraz that has McLaren Vale ShirazBrygon Estate Valley Shiraz it all. It’s sweet, ripe, 2013 HHHSouth Australia 2013 HHHH balanced and a nice Big, ripe and juicy, withShiraz Cabernet A peppery, Rhone-like touch of age. $20 a lovely concentration of2012 HHHH style of shiraz - a good blueberry and cassis-likeGood example of example of this variety, fruit. $14.95this classic Aussie with its bright, sweet Landcross Adelaideblend, with cabernet fruit and good level of Shiraz 2012 HHHslightly dominating. acidity. $18 A leaner, tannic style;Complex fruit nose savoury and spicy, withand soft, flavoursome good fruit complexitypalate. $12.99 and oak structure. $14 Mt MonsterBrygon Estate Limestone CoastMartha’s Lane Shiraz 2012 HHHSouth Australia “Ticks all the boxes,”Shiraz Cabernet said one judge.2012 HHH1/2 Dark fruit and herbal“A lovely, very drinkable aromatics and flavourwine,” thought one complexity. $15.95judge. Has nice, old-school style expression.Just needs some moretime. $12.99 WORLD’S GREATEST SHIRAZ/SYRAH CHALLENGE IXPUBLIC TASTING Come and join us for this fabulous event. Over 700 bottles available to taste. WINESTATE SUBSCRIBERS ARE ENTITLED TO ONE FREE ENTRY. Additional guests are welcome at a cost of only $50 per person! Contact Winestate on 08 8357 9277 or [email protected] to claim or order your ticket.Friday 30 May 2014, from 6pm-8pm, at the National Wine Centre, Adelaide To book your tickets call Winestate 08 8357 9277 - Strictly limited number of tickets available The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 135

NEW RELEASESSkin Deep Wines Love Cradle Vignerons Ekhidna Linchpin Fox Creek Short PertaringaLost McLaren Vale Selection McLaren McLaren Vale Shiraz Row McLaren Vale UndercoverShiraz 2012 HHH Vale Shiraz 2012 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz McLaren Vale ShirazLong, savoury style of HHHH1/2 A vibrant and elegant 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHHshiraz; loads of An elegant style of shiraz, wine, with an “old A big, powerful wine A lively wine offeringpepper, spice and with deep crimson hues school”-like expression that’s rich and intense, good ageing potential.plums. Seamlessly and very good structure. of the variety showing and currently driven Overtly woody, for now,balanced. $18.50 Has lovely fruit ripeness, a raisined edge to the by the oak with a big with ripe sweet fruit with subtle peppery fruit. “Ticks all the dose of crushed ant-like peeking through andMolly’s Cradle notes and layered with boxes,” according to one characters. Offering laced with crisp acidity.Clare Valley Shiraz silky smooth tannins. $39 judge. $40 some excellent cellaring2012 HHH potential. $30 3-5 $22Both subtle and complex Robert Oatley Zonte’s Footstepwith pleasant aromatics. Finisterre Great Baron Von NemesisOak tends to dominate Southern Syrah Barossa Valleyfor now. Time! $19.99 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHH Deep, dark and intense, Powerful, aromatic, darkShiraz $20-$40 and really well- raspberry fruit characters structured wine, with - very concentrated, with32 TASTED excellent fruit showing a touch of oak and a fine25 AWARDED bacon-like elements and tannin structure. Plenty oak to balance, with of life ahead of it yet.A strong class reflecting a lovely soft, tanninthe excellent 2012 backbone. $39.99 5+ $22vintage. This was Talbots Block Thea very consistent Prince Sevenhillgroup showing great Clare Valley Shirazdepth, richness and 2012 HHHHconcentration, and “A fine example of anmostly good oak balance. aromatic style,” noted one judge. Lovely grainy structure, with savoury elements and nice spicy, oak influence. $24136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingPeter Lehmann Currency Creek Robert Oatley Peter Lehmann Vine CrossroadsMoppa Shiraz Estate Ostrich Hill Signature McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 Winemakers2012 HHHH Currency Creek Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Collection HawkesA crimson wine, with Shiraz 2012 HHHH HHH1/2 An aromatic bouquet Bay NZ Syrahlovely rich bramble Light, simple and oaky, Glorious, leafy, sweet, leading to a tight, juicy, 2012 HHH1/2and plum-like varietal with an opulence McLaren Vale style, primary fruit palate that A powerful, spicy,fruit complexity nicely of spicy fruit sitting with mature sweet fruit is layered with drying, peppery, Rhone-like stylewrapped up in some underneath and laced integrated with some chalky tannins. $30 - all savoury and balanced,fine, silky tannins. $30 with soft silky tannins. lively oak depth. Needs Bowen Estate with a good level of lively Will reward with time. $23.99 Coonawarra Shiraz acidity. $39.95 cellaring. $35 Tomich Woodside 2012 HHH1/2 Leopardwood Vineyard Adelaide A shiraz with a very ripe La Curio The Dandy Heathcote Shiraz Hills Shiraz 2012 complexity of candied- McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 HHH1/2 like fruit, a big hit of 2012 HHH A very good wine - deep Black, tight and porty. acid and lovely, soft and Rich, dark red fruit purple in colour, with “Would make great balancing tannins. $32 aromas and an lively dark fruit aromas vintage port material,” Talbots Block The harmoniously balanced, and flavours, and fine said one judge. Pure, Sultan Sevenhill tight palate, with bright tannins. Has potential intense fruit and fine Clare Valley Shiraz acidity. $21 tannins. $25 2012 HHH1/2 3-5 $20 Peter Lehmann Light A big, tight, deep crimson Zonte’s Footstep Zonte’s Footstep Pass Shiraz 2012 wine, with a lovely Chocolate Factory Lake Doctor HHH1/2 balance of ripe, sweet, McLaren Vale Shiraz Langhorne Creek A well-made, soft, juicy, fruit characters with 2012 HHH Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 “old school” style of some vanillin oak. $32 Good concentration Dark red fruit, with shiraz. Lovely ripe fruit, of briary fruit, slight a mocha-like note. with a seamless oak and leathery notes and fine Obvious oak and lovely tannin balance. $30 tannins. Cellar it! velvety tannins. Has good length and overall 5+ $22 balance. $22rlIIeNeaNNvdFeOorLVslhUuAipTtEiIpNoOioNnTrneaeIveAsirsrpLiyionengciitnnHvgIeCenKntIioNionBlIuOnegtTseHagcAryiMty The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137

NEW RELEASESShingleback The McLaren Vale Peter Lehmann Quorum McLarenDavey Estate III Associates VSV Hongell Shiraz Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHMcLaren Vale Shiraz Squid Ink McLaren 2012 HHHH An elegant shiraz2012 HHH Vale Shiraz Dark and brooding, with developing well, withTight, black inky/iodine 2012 HHHH1/2 pleasant savouriness, cedary oak sittingstyle, with excellent An inky, purple wine; dark fruits, with a over dark varietal fruitvarietal fruit purity and big, dark, tight and hint of mocha, well- characters. $50fine tannins. $23.95 youthful, with an intense integrated oak and concentration of dark layered with silky Shaw Family VintnersBrygon Estate varietal fruit characters, tannins. 3-5 $60 The FigureheadRegional Series fine tannins and McLaren Vale ShirazBarossa Valley excellent acidity. Years to Fox Creek Old Vine 2010 HHHShiraz 2012 HHH go yet. 5+ $55 McLaren Vale Shiraz Interesting, flavoursomeVery ripe and rich, and 2012 HHH1/2 style - lots of dark fruits,verging on porty, with An opulent wine - all with cedary undertonesoak a little dominant for fruit - dark, rich and ripe. and hints of mocha. $80now. $24.99 Good oak balance, with an interesting, leathery- Sweet WhiteShaw Family like element. $50 & FortifiedVintners The 9NSingle Vineyard Optimus The 4 TASTEDMcLaren Vale Shiraz Terraces Blackwood 2 AWARDED2012 HHH River Valley ShirazTight and inky wine, with 2012 HHH A couple of worthypowerful vanillin oak Dark, savoury, oak-driven “sweeties” here!and nice chalky tannins. style. All chocolaty.Needs time. $35 Needs more time. Pertaringa Autumn Harvest AdelaidePeter Lehmann 3-5 $72 Riesling 2013 HHHLyndoch Shiraz Honeyed, sweet,2011 HHH Lloyd Brothers stonefruit aromasSubtle and restrained yet White Chalk Single and sweet palatefairly intense. Some fruit Vineyard McLaren nicely balanced by thesweetness. Good for a Vale Shiraz acidity. $182011 vintage. $30 2012 HHH Elegant dark fruit with Highland HeritageTaltarni Estate an herbal edge, subtle Estate Nikki DPyrenees Victoria oak and powerful Mount CanobolasShiraz 2010 HHH tannins. “Needs time or Riesling 2011 HHHAn elegant, developing a steak!” $150 A semi-sweet classic,wine retaining excellent with a nose and palatefruit vibrancy and still of citrus showing somewith a long way to go. development. $20 5+ $40 star ratings Shiraz Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofOver $40 excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry9 TASTED professionals and are compared in peer8 AWARDED classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,Another consistent a major mail-order business.group of generally strong CD Cellar door price.performers. The best CDO Cellar door only.wines showed greater SO Sold out.concentration and quality $N/A Price not available at time of printing.oak offering longevity for  Contact information pg 152.the buyer. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Fernando The First For a complete list of what we tasted Special Release please refer to www.winestate.com.au Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 Extremely tight, iodine- like darkness. Some aromatic herbal notes to the nose, with generous concentrated flavours. Seamless balance between the oak, fruit and tannins. $74.99138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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Swan Haven Reserve Anvers Adelaide Hills Jip Jip Rocks Padthaway Minnow Creek The SilverVictoria Riesling Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Minnow Adelaide HillsGewurztraminer 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Pungent nose with subtle A flinty, grassy style, withA slightly “grapey” style. tinned fruit-like notes and very a lovely fresh, crisp palate A stylish, fresh and livelyLovely fresh, spicy, tropical sweet flavours but good level full of zesty flavours. $19.95 wine, with pleasant toastylift to the nose and slightly of acid to balance. $20 fruit nose and excellentsweet but balanced palate. Morambro Creek Wines/Jip Jip Rocks/ flavour profile. $20Needs to be served chilled. $18 Anvers Wines Mt Monster 08 8323 9603 08 8723 1065 Minnow Creek WinesGoona Warra Vineyard [email protected] [email protected] 08 8278 886603 9740 7766 www.anvers.com.au www.morambrocreek.com.au [email protected]@goonawarra.com.au www.mtmonster.com.au www.minnowcreekwines.com.auwww.goonawarra.com.au www.jipjiprocks.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 141

top 40Mother of Pearl Molly’s Cradle Brygon Reserve The Bruce Brampton Western CapeWrattonbully/Coonawarra Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2013Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Blanc 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 A subtlety of mangoes on the A powerful sauvignon blancFresh, lifted and tropical, with nose and good fruit depth and Subdued aromas. Palate nose - pungent with a touchsome sweetness but a high structure. A pleasant drink. $19 shows good body with of oak. Has loads of varietallevel of acidity to balance. $19 flavour persistence; flows fruit on the long textured Molly’s Cradle Wines beautifully. Great texture palate with a tight touch ofPatrick of Coonawarra 02 9979 1471 and some phenolics. $19.99 oak and some grippiness. R5408 8737 3687 [email protected]@patrickofcoonawarra.com Brygon Reserve Wines AfriCape Wineswww.patrickofcoonawarra.com 0419 865 556 07 5444 8948 [email protected] [email protected] www.brygonreservewines.com.au www.africapewines.com Hãhã Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 For distributors see hahawine.co.nz Michael Cooper ‘BEST WINE BUYS’142 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER “One of New Zealand’s best value Sauvignon Blancs” February 2014

Burnbrae Orange Fuddling Cup Margaret Haha Marlborough Twin Bridges HilltopsSauvignon Blanc 2013 River Semillon Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Dessert Viognier 2013 Blanc 2013Appealing minerality to the Full-bodied and punchy, Very different, very softgrassy nose and follows Clean and ripe with some with ripe, sweet-fruit style with apricot-like fruitthrough onto the light palate stonefruit evident. Palate has characters and fresh, strong characters dominating thewith a hint of bubble gum good body depth with firm melon, capsicum and lime nose and the palate. $13.50flavours. $18 acidity giving persistence. $17 flavours. Full of youthful impact and great value. $16 Twin Bridges WinesBurnbrae Fuddling Cup 0427 303 20802 6373 3504 08 9364 6165 Fern Ridge / Haha refer Negotiants [email protected]@burnbraewines.com.au [email protected] +64 6 834 3888 www.twinbridgeswine.com.auwww.burnbraewines.com.au www.fuddlingcup.com [email protected] www.fernridge.co.nzwww.hillriverestatewine.cominfo@hillriverestatewine.com 08 8357 7656 Clare Valley & Riverland South Australia The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 143

top 40Saint Clair Marlborough Burnbrae Mudgee Haha Marlborough King’s of Kangaroo GroundChardonnay 2013 Chardonnay 2013 Chardonnay 2013 The Hilda May Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010Vibrantly fruity style, placing A big ripe youth that needs Attractive drink-young style,its accent on strong, 3-5 years to evolve. Good fruit lightly oaked, with a slightly Slowly developing melon/peachcitrusy, peachy flavours. impact and crisp acidity. $20 creamy bouquet. Mouthfilling, fruit, with a nice nutty balanceWell-integrated toasty oak with vibrant citrus and of oak and good acid spine. $20(French and American), with Burnbrae stonefruit flavours, fresh aciditya crisp, smooth finish. Lots 02 6373 3504 and a crisp, dry finish. $18 Kings of Kangaroo Groundof easy-drinking charm. $22 [email protected] 03 9712 0666 www.burnbraewines.com.au Fern Ridge / Haha refer Negotiants [email protected] Clair Family Vineyards +64 6 834 3888 www.kkg.com.au+64 3 578 8695 [email protected]@saintclair.co.nz www.fernridge.co.nzwww.saintclair.co.nz INTENSELY QUINTESSENTIALLYPASSIONATE MCLAREN VALE FIND US ON FACEBOOK FACEBOOK.COM.AU/BERESFORDWINES144 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Queen Adelaide South Brangayne of Orange The Black Chook Adelaide Cooks Lot Orange PinotEastern Australia Orange Pinot Grigio 2013 Hills Pinot Grigio 2013 Noir 2013Chardonnay 2013 Nose had a lovely lift of pears Rich floral aromatics with Very young cherry red wine.A pretty candied pineapple and apples. Palate is firm and a hint of musk. Good, well- Good varietal nose with nicebouquet and well-structured, light with subtle flavours. $20 balanced, mid-palate flavour level of smoky oak. Relativelysweet, soft palate. $7.99 with crunchy acidity. $18 soft fruit impact on the front Brangayne Of Orange palate with a balance of charryVok Beverages 02 6365 3229 Galvanised Wine Group/Woop oak and a firm finish. $2008 8182 1841 [email protected] Woop [email protected] www.brangayne.com 08 8556 4460 Cooks Lot Wineswww.vok.com.au [email protected] 02 9550 3228 www.mrriggs.com.au [email protected] www.cookslot.com.au DiVsWtiinniecntyieavserdSingle 0427 303 208 | 25 Old Buttai Road, Buttai, NSW, 2323 www.twinbridgeswine.com.au | [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 145

top 40Haha Marlborough Pinot Twin Bridges Orange Fox Gordon The Sicilian Brygon Reserve RegionalNoir 2013 Pinot Noir 2013 Adelaide Hills Nero Series Margaret River D’Avola 2012 Cabernet Merlot 2012Highly attractive, vibrantly Slightly forward lightfruity, smooth red with deep cherry bouquet and Medium bodied style smelling A leaner lighter blendruby colour and generous some uncomplicated of cassis with herbal notes and with savoury earthycherry, plum and spice cherry fruit on the firm a tasty palate, “Like biting into elements and persistentflavours, gently seasoned and bright palate. $13.50 a raspberry truffle”, according flavour length. $19.99with oak (60% barrel-aged). to one judge. 3-5 $19.95Drink now or cellar. $20 Twin Bridges Wines Brygon Reserve Wines 0427 303 208 Fox Gordon 0419 865 556Fern Ridge / Haha refer Negotiants [email protected] [email protected]+64 6 834 3888 www.twinbridgeswine.com.au 08 8377 7707 [email protected] [email protected] www.foxgordon.com.au146 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Brygon Reserve Regional Atratus South Eastern Brygon Reserve Bin 8888 Red Knot by ShinglebackSeries Margaret River Australia Cabernet Margaret River Cabernet McLaren Vale CabernetCabernet Merlot 2012 Merlot 2012 Sauvignon 2011 Sauvignon 2013A leaner lighter blend A fine, lean and leafywith savoury earthy cabernet nose, and nicely- “Bright, brilliant and beautiful”, Intensely coloured, withelements and persistent structured palate fleshed out described one judge. Some a blackcurrant bouquetflavour length. $19.99 with the merlot fruit. $15 serious blackcurrant-like varietal and ripe, fleshy fruit/ fruit. Great texture, long and spicy oak flavours. $14.95Brygon Reserve Wines Goona Warra Vineyard balanced with well-weighted oak and velvety tannins. $19.99 Shingleback0419 865 556 03 9740 7766 08 8323 [email protected] [email protected] Brygon Reserve Wines [email protected] www.goonawarra.com.au 0419 865 556 www.shingleback.com.au [email protected] www.brygonreservewines.com.auMeet Red Knot’s big brother. Introducing the Davey Brothers Shiraz. www.shingleback.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 147

top 40Molly’s Cradle Clare Shanahans The Old Dog Red Knot by Shingleback Shingleback DaveyValley Shiraz 2012 Barossa Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 Brothers McLaren ValeBoth subtle and complex 2012 Shiraz 2012with pleasant aromatics. Oak Big, ripe and juicy, with a lovelytends to dominate for now. Quite a simple, slightly sweet concentration of blueberry Amazing colour, almost black.Time! $19.99 style, with a lovely array of red and cassis-like fruit. $14.95 Big, rich and very flavoursome and dark fruit purity. $19.95 wine with plenty of character.Molly’s Cradle Wines Shingleback “Over delivers for the price,”02 9979 1471 Shanahans Wines 08 8323 7388 said one judge. [email protected] 08 8563 0555 [email protected] [email protected] www.shingleback.com.au Shingleback www.shanahanwines.com.au 08 8323 7388 [email protected] www.shingleback.com.au Issue 135 | May/June 2014Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Printing DAI Rubicon arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.distalliance.comAdministrationVicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Designer Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Telephone (08) 8357 9277Jasmine Holmes E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Facsimile (08) 8357 9212Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. E-mail [email protected] Copyright 2014 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. Website www.winestate.com.auPeter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied,Tasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to anyMadeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Boschendal 1685 Coastal Beresford Beacon Hill Beyerskloof Reserve Allee Bleue FranschhoekRegion Shiraz 2011 South Australia Stellenbosch Pinotage 2009 Merlot 2013 Pinotage 2011Slightly closed on the nose, Big powerful, full-bodiedbrighter on the palate with Lovely vibrant red, medium- Honest sweet ripe varietal wine, with plenty of ripegood fruit and pencilly oak. R96 bodied wine, dark plum fruit fruit with some obvious, berry fruit. Good aromas and aromas and flavours showing but well-matched, oak. nicely textured palate layeredAfriCape Wines freshness and excellent Silky smooth in the mouth with long silky tannins. R14007 5444 8948 balanced sweetness. $11.90 with barnyardy notes [email protected] good tannin structure. R118 AfriCape Wineswww.africapewines.com Vok Beverages 07 5444 8948 08 8182 1841 AfriCape Wines [email protected] [email protected] 07 5444 8948 www.africapewines.com www.vok.com.au [email protected] www.africapewines.comwww.hillriverestatewine.cominfo@hillriverestatewine.com 08 8357 7656 Clare Valley & Riverland South Australia The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 149