Winestate Magazine March April 2021

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B AROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY Bethany Wines Blue Paulmara Estates Z Wine [RUSTICA] GRENACHE & Quarry Eden Valley Brasco's Barossa Barossa Valley BLENDS Chardonnay Montepulciano Mataro 2019 HHHH 2019 HHHH 2019 HHH1/2 18 TASTED Lifted fruit nose with A bright youthful style A nice fresh vibrant 18 AWARDED lovely nutty oak. Nice with a spicy peppery varietal with attractive palate texture and a nose and boysenberry- mulberry-like fruit An excellent and good intensity and like fruit flavours with characters and some consistent class of both concentration of fruit chewy tannins. Needs savoury tannins. $28 varietal and the GSM flavours. $40 more time! $22 Barossa Boy Young blends. “In this region Wisdom Barossa grenache should steal Z Wine [NEVAH] Purple Hands Mataro some of the limelight Gumpara Wines Barossa Valley Wines Colours Of 2018 HHH1/2 from shiraz,” said one Picnic Block Old Chardonnay The South Barossa Lifted sweet fruit judge. “This variety is Vine Barossa Valley 2019 HHH1/2 Valley Rosso fragrances with a bright now getting the respect Grenache Intense and focussed 2019 HHHH jubey fruit palate, it deserves.” 2020 HHHH1/2 style with a savoury Good purple hues with chocolaty notes and Deep red wine with nose, good palate nice lifted sweet fruit chewy tannins. $50 Bethany Wines First a lifted cherry nose texture and big ripe aromatics. Slightly Hemera Estate Village Barossa and attractive varietal upfront flavours. $30 confectionery fruit Limited Release Valley Grenache flavours on the rich, flavours with a long Barossa Valley 2019 HHHHH dense and somewhat OTHER REDS lingering finish. $28 Cabernet Franc Delightful dark and warming palate with Purple Hands 2018 HHH1/2 savoury aromas with grainy tannins. $32 15 TASTED Wines Colours Of Minty/red capsicum-like an aromatic lift of red Z Wine [AUGUST] 11 AWARDED The South Barossa aromas with leafy notes cherries. Beautifully Barossa Valley Valley Mourvèdre and pleasant richness to layered and very Grenache A good solid group 2019 HHHH the flavoursome palate. flavoursome palate with 2020 HHHH1/2 with various varietals Bright fresh lifted $60 a good line of vibrant Very varietal fruit driven and blends. “These aromatics and a mid- Haan Estate Classic acid and chalky tannins. nose; all cherries and wines exhibited good weight savoury palate Barossa Valley $32 strawberries with a winemaking with an with drying tannins and Merlot Cabernet fragrant floral lift. Nicely understanding of the laced with lively acidity. Franc 2017 HHH Z Wine [ROMAN] rounded mid-weight varieties involved,” $28 An easy drinking chewy Barossa Valley varietal palate with noted one judge. Barossa Valley Wine herbal/blackcurrant-like G.S.M. 2019 HHHHH chalky tannins. $35 Company Gravel blend. A good food A serious dark and Z Wine [HILDER] Track Barossa wine. $25 brooding fruit bouquet. Barossa Valley Valley Tempranillo Haan Estate Prestige Quite juicy and fleshy Mataro 2018 HHHH Barossa Valley in the mouth with a 2019 HHHH1/2 Dark and brooding Merlot 2017 HHH lovely core of dark fruit A lovely deep crimson licorice-like aromas. Spicy lifted aromatics flavours that linger on wine with a powerful Palate is a tad oaky with and a good concentration the long silky-smooth mix of red and blue good, slightly cloying, of slightly leathery fruit palate. $40 fruit fragrances and mid-palate varietal flavours. $50 a somewhat savoury flavours. $24.50 palate with lovely Garden & Field Kalleske Old Vine varietal fruit flavours and Gnadenberg Barossa Valley grainy tannins. $300 Road Eden Valley Grenache Cabernet Refosco 2019 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH Lovely dark red hue with Brooding plum bouquet briary/herbal aromas and with leathery notes and a bright cherry fruit lift. huge concentration Great flavours more in of flavours with good the savoury spectrum on acidity and grainy the long and balanced tannins. $55 palate. $50 JUDGES Alex Mackenzie Matt O’Leary Alex MacClelland Winemaker for Treasury Chief winemaker for Chief winemaker at Wine Estates. Previously Savitas Wines in the Bethany Wines. Formerly a winemaker for Annie’s Barossa Valley. Formerly winemaker at Hemera Lane, Tintara. Has vintaged Senior Winemaker Estate, Schild Estate and in Germany, Piedmont and for Wolf Blass Wines. Boar's Rock. Has vintaged Chianti (Italy) and Hermitage Judge at the Barossa in Burgundy, Rhone (France). Has judged at wine show. Panelist Valley and Marlborough. the Adelaide Hills/Barossa, at the Advanced Wine Associate judge at the Victorian wine show and as Assessment Course. Inland wine show, Barossa an associate at the Clare wine show and AWAC. Valley wine show. 52 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

regional tasting Peter Lehmann Yalumba Bush Vine Corryton Burge The Kurtz Family Peter Lehmann Wines Bond Barossa Grenache Brigadier Barossa Vineyards Boundary Wines VSV Ruediger Grenache 2019 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Row Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHH Restrained lifted 2018 HHHHH Cabernet Shiraz 2018 HHH Lovely intense lifted peppery nose with Excellent bright red 2017 HHHHH Subdued barnyard- blue fruit bouquet and a a medium bodied colour with hints of Mulberry-like varietal like aromas with an bright fresh and aromatic redcurrant driven lavender on the varietal fruit dominates the nose attractive ripe fruit palate with plenty of palate. $28 fruit nose. Everything and gives great depth palate. $60 acidity to ensure a long is evenly integrated on and weight to the richly life. $25 Barossa Valley Wine a very long and slightly layered palate with Gatt High Eden Eden Sandmine by Amelia Company Gravel drying palate with good some excellent oak in a Valley Cabernet and Trent Burge Track Barossa Valley fruit tannins. $45 supporting role. $28 Sauvignon Barossa Grenache G.S.M. 2018 HHH Hemera Estate Z Wine [AUDREY] 2016 HHH 2019 HHH1/2 Fragrant perfumed Limited Release Barossa Valley Nice weight and balance Youthful varietal nose bouquet and a hint of Marananga Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon with layers of brooding and lighter bodied palate fruit greenness on the Valley Cabernet 2018 HHHH1/2 plum fruit and five spice with decent length and palate. $24.50 Sauvignon Bright crimson wine flavours. $60 firm mouth puckering 2018 HHHHH with a somewhat shy tannins. $30 Savitas Wines A vividly fresh cabernet nose and juicy palate Yalumba The Barossa Boy Little Incygnes Barossa with lifted blueberry-like showing a solid core of Signature Barossa Tacker Barossa Valley Grenache varietal fruit characters fleshy fruit flavours and Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache Shiraz Shiraz Mataro edged with lantana-like layered with herbs and Shiraz 2016 HHH Mourvedre 2018 HHH notes and has plenty of spices. $35 Subtle blueberry 2017 HHH1/2 Good concentration of oak with chalky tannins Bethany Wines Blue bouquet with layers of An interesting wine dark fruits on both the in support. $80 Quarry Barossa cassis, plums and tarry with a spicy fruit nose shy nose and nicely Cabernet Sauvignon oak on a soft chewy showing lovely floral layered palate. $36 2018 HHHH1/2 palate. $65 nuances and a solid “Very Barossa!” noted sweet fruit palate. $30 Z Wine [ROHRLACH] one judge. The nose is Gatt Barossa Valley Chateau Yaldara Barossa Valley rich and cedary with a Cabernet Sauvignon Lily Ponds Barossa Grenache 2018 HHH bright mulberry lift and 2015 HHH Valley Grenache Quite a different style; has a solid palate with Good varietal 2020 HHH rich and ripe and sitting good varietal fruit and characters here, some Bright and youthful more in the savoury fruit noticeable acidity. $45 length and fleshiness cherry aromas and a spectrum. $120 Berton Vineyards to the palate with vibrant varietal fruit High Eden Cabernet chocolaty nuances. $60 driven palate. $25 Gatt Accent Barossa Sauvignon Z Wine [RUSTICA] Valley Grenache 2018 HHHH Two Churches Barossa Valley 2017 HHH A dense dark plum Barossa Cabernet Grenache 2020 HHH A good uncomplicated bouquet and a good HHH Subdued brooding fruit quaffer with sweet fruit length of rich sweet fig A leafy medicinal note nose and lightweight and some age evident and currant-like flavours to the nose and flavours palate, some complexity with drying tannins. $25 with nice chewy in the slightly ripe sweet and savoury tannins. $25 tannins. $30 fruit dimension. $12 Z Wine [ROMAN] Gomersal Barossa Welland Old Hands Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Barossa Cabernet Gomersal Barossa G.S.M. 2020 HHH Mataro 2017 HHH Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Nicely structured deep Full bodied wine, 2018 HHHH HHH red wine with dense some complexity with A simple dark and Typical old school, soft mulberry/blueberry fruit dark plum characters brooding nose. Good ripe, Barossa style characters. $40 prevailing. $18 flavour weight and cabernet. “A proper Bethany Wines First concentration with cabernet!” $18 Village Barossa CABERNET & both some ripeness Valley G.S.M. BLENDS and some greenness of 2019 HHH fruit. $70 All blue fruits and spices 18 TASTED Kalleske Merchant with a slight licorice 14 AWARDED Barossa Valley note, powdery tannins Cabernet Sauvignon and edgy acidity. $25 “When cabernet is done 2019 HHH well as a straight varietal Gently varietal with it is great,” suggested attractive lifted blue one judge. “When it is fruits, smoky notes and rich and overripe with grainy tannins. $30 fruit sweetness it is not so great!” These are all good drinking wines. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 53

B AROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY SHIRAZ & Berton Vineyards Gumpara Wines Corryton Burge Barossa Valley Wine BLENDS Bonsai High Eden Mader Reserve Percival Norman Company Stockyard 2019/2018 Shiraz 2018 HHHHH Barossa Valley Barossa Shiraz Barossa Valley A very well-made wine Shiraz 2019 HHHH Shiraz 2018 HHHH 33 TASTED with spicy new oak 2018 HHHH1/2 A straightforward style of A good solid shiraz with, 26 AWARDED characters evident on A lovely seamlessly shiraz with powerful oak as one judge described, “Very solid group with the nose and lovely long integrated wine, characters, good lifted “Everything in its place, great value for money and mouth filling fresh complex and layered dark varietal fruits and no excesses”. Nice across the board,” fruit flavours seamlessly with forest floor-like powdery tannins. $45 fruity lift to the nose and agreed the judges. “No layered with the oak. $40 characters and a very Corryton Burge Kith a long palate. $40 boring wines here,” said Peter Lehmann good tannin structure. Barossa Shiraz Garden & Field one judge. “As well as Wines VSV Valley “Very more-ish,” 2018 HHHH Gomersal Barossa the blockbusters there View Shiraz thought one judge. $60 Pretty lifted fruit Valley Shiraz were those that showed 2018 HHHHH Garden & Field fragrances with an even 2018 HHHH restrained varietal Deep crimson wine with Gnadenberg Road integration of flavours “Lots of wine here!” character, so some nice purple highlights. Subtle Eden Valley Shiraz on the solid palate. Has commented one judge. choices here.” fruit driven bouquet 2018 HHHH1/2 plenty of acid ensuring a Good lifted ripe plum and a dense, rich and A rich well-made wine long life. $28 fruit nicely shored up Gumpara Wines seamlessly balanced that is almost purple in by the tannins and acid. Victor's Old Vine palate with some colour with a fresh fruit $150 Barossa Valley warmth and good depth lift to the nose and quite Blickinstal Black On Shiraz 2018 HHHHH of flavours. $60 ripe, almost cooked-like, Black Barossa Valley Nicely focussed dark Kalleske Greenock sweet fruit flavours with Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 fruit aromas with a spicy Barossa Valley drying tannins. $95 A nicely layered shiraz, lift and a leathery edge. Shiraz Paulmara Estates some licorice on the Silky smooth in the 2019 HHHH1/2 Marananga Barossa nose and a nicely put mouth with lovely layers A fresh floral fruit style Shiraz 2019 HHHH together palate with firm of varietal fruit and oak of shiraz with very good Fresh, vibrant and juicy tannins. $NA flavours with velvety weight of juicy sweet style with aromas of Z Wine [RUSTICA] tannins. $32 confectionery-like blue fruits and nice line Barossa Valley varietal fruit supported of varietal fruit flavours Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 by a firm tannin with good acid and Slightly restrained nose backbone. $45 tannins. $30 with hints of blue fruits Tempus Two Schwarz Wine and a pretty, varietal Pewter Barossa Company The palate with good tannin Valley Shiraz Grower Barossa structure. $25 2018 HHHH1/2 Valley Shiraz Yalumba Barossa A very well-made bigger 2019 HHHH Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 style of shiraz that has Lifted floral perfumed A sweet floral lift to the interesting complexity aromas and a good juicy nose with a long juicy to the nose and great palate that is very tasty fruit palate and slight length and depth of rich with spicy confectionery sweetness from the varietal fruit and oak fruit elements. $30 oak. $28 flavours. $45 Z Wine [HEDLEY] Krondorf Symmetry Barossa Valley Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 Musky floral aromas and A lovely vibrant lifted a tightly wound palate wine that is all plums, with fresh and spicy fruit cherries and spices. flavours. Needs air to Excellent structure with open up. $35 great concentration of Mum's Block punchy sweet flavours. Barossa Shiraz Ageing nicely. $49.99 2018 HHH1/2 A big ripe old school style of shiraz with good quality varietal fruit and an abundance of oak. $46.65 Z Wine [JULIUS] Barossa Valley Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 Well made, uncomplicated, shiraz. Nice ripe fruit and good varietal fruit characters with sappy oak. $70 54 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

regional tasting Berton Vineyards SHIRAZ & Barossa Boy Double Gomersal Wines Gatt High Eden Eden Limited Reserve BLENDS Trouble Barossa Lyndoch Road Valley Shiraz Barossa Valley 2017 & OLDER Shiraz Cabernet Barossa Valley 2015 HHH Shiraz 2018 HHH Sauvignon Shiraz Mataro A pleasant combination Old school style. 28 TASTED 2017 HHHH 2017 HHH of fruit sweetness and Slight leathery notes 19 AWARDED Some solid cherry-like Nice mix of dark cherry greenness on the nose to the oaky nose. varietal fruit characters fruit with Christmas and palate. Lots of oak. Well balanced, evenly The judges said the here with eucalypt notes cake-like characters and $60 structured, palate. $25 cooler 2017 vintage and a good mid-palate drying tannins. $30 Paisley Silk Barossa was a more challenging flavour richness. $30 Sandmine by Amelia SWEET WHITE Valley Shiraz one with a mixed result Z Wine [POOLE] and Trent Burge & FORTIFIED 2018 HHH for the ’16s and the Barossa Valley Barossa Shiraz A well-made wine with ’15s where wines were Shiraz 2017 HHHH 2017 HHH 2 TASTED nice vibrancy and slightly either super ripe or not “Reminiscent of a rum A solid, seamlessly 1 AWARDED confectionery varietal ripe at all. However as and raisin chocolate integrated, wine showing fruits. $30 usual there are gems in bar,” thought one judge. some nice vibrancy on One ripe and sweet Dorrien Parish all categories. Quite a sweet soft the palate. $30 developing style here for Grounds Barossa wine with some chewy Reillys Wines RCV the lovers of ‘rum and Valley Shiraz Gomersal Wines tannins. $120 Moonvine Barossa raisin,’ said one judge. 2018 HHH Reserve Barossa Gatt Barossa Valley Valley Shiraz A well-made, typical Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2015 HHHH 2017 HHH Kalleske JMK Barossa shiraz, not too 2016 HHHH1/2 Another old school A big oaky wine with Barossa Valley ripe with a seamless A vibrantly fresh and Barossa style of shiraz hints of licorice on the Shiraz Vintage Port integration of flavours. oaky crimson wine with with dark spicy fruit, nice nose and developing 2018 HHH $44.15 lovely purple highlights. use of oak and slightly a secondary flavour Smells of rum and Reillys Wines RCV Good varietal fruit green tannins. $60 profile. $50 raisins with nicely Moonvine Barossa characters at the riper Z Wine [RUSTICA] Pirathon Gold focussed sweet fruit Valley Shiraz end of the spectrum. Reserve Barossa Barossa Valley flavours. $25 2018 HHH Nice lift to the nose and Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2017 HHH A rich wine with a dark drying tannins. $30 2016 HHH1/2 Powerful oaky old- and brooding nose Brooding dark fruit fashioned style with and big ripe oak driven Gatt Barossa bouquet and fruit driven layers of plum fruit and palate. $50 Valley Shiraz flavours with a hint plenty of acid. $99 Peter Lehmann 2016 HHHH1/2 of some spices and a Peter Lehmann Wines VSV “A sumptuous wine,” leathery note. $34 Wines Eight Songs Hearnden Shiraz declared one judge. It Tempus Two Pewter Shiraz 2016 HHH 2018 HHH is mature and complex Barossa Valley An oaky nose with some Pretty confectionery with pure sweet varietal Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 cherry fruit and the oak cherry-like fragrances fruit, some powdery Dark spicy fruit nose and carrying through onto with rich sweet fruit tannins and a good line a good core of flavours, the tannic palate. $45 flavours. $60 of crisp acid. $60 a touch warm on the Auld Family Wines Z Wine [HEIN] palate with leathery William Patrick Barossa Valley Gomersal Wines aged notes. $45 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2018 HHH Estate Barossa Jb wines The Shiraz 2016 HHH Lifted sweet berry Valley Shiraz Pointman Single Dark varietal fruit on the bouquet and a slightly 2016 HHHH1/2 Vineyard Barossa nose and palate with restrained lighter weight Dark and oaky on the Valley Shiraz some cedar-like oak and palate. $300 nose and sweet and 2013 HHH1/2 leathery nuances. $50 juicy in the mouth with Lifted floral fruit Gatt High Eden Eden lovely ripe shiraz fruit fragrances with good Valley Shiraz flavours and masses of length of cola-like fruit 2016 HHH oak with a chewy tannin flavours and supple Loads of toasty oak here structure. $60 tannin structure. $30 but there is enough Gumpara Wines good varietal fruit to Paisley Maeve Hexen Barossa carry it. $60 Barossa Valley Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2015 HHH 2016 HHHH1/2 Massive bacon-like Bright jubey shiraz fruit oak characters but still nose and lovely lifted shows some lifted fruit flavours with a slight mulberry-like fruit. A stalky note. “It is an great wine needs more unusual style but a good time to fully develop and drink none-the-less,” meld together. $240 said one judge. $60 March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 55

145 TASTED 106 AWARDED C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D S This was a great opportunity to look at a big range of chardonnay Trentham Estate Tempus Two Copper wines across numerous price points. With this varietal that can be Grown Chardonnay Wilde Hunter Valley moulded and crafted with good winemaking from good fruit, price 2019 HHH Chardonnay is often a guide. A tropical nose followed 2018 HHHH by loads of toasty oak A wine with good CHARDONNAY Giesen Estate flavours laced with weight and texture and UNDER $20 Hawkes Bay peach notes. $18 loads of tropical-like fruit Chardonnay characters edged with 20 TASTED 2019 HHH1/2 Saint Clair Origin nutty notes and smoked 8 AWARDED An attractive smoky Marlborough meats. $22 oak bouquet and soft Chardonnay Nepenthe Altitude “Overall, the wines and creamy in the 2019 HHH Adelaide Hills in this category were mouth with everything Attractive subtlety of Chardonnay clean and well made, in perfect balance. smoky toasty fragrances 2019 HHH1/2 however, a number also $16.99 with excellent oak/ Stonefruit fragrances lacked fruit intensity fruit flavour integration. with supporting oak and were often propped Buller Wines $19.90 and interesting, well up with oak or ‘tricky’ RLB Victoria integrated, mouth- winemaking,” was one Chardonnay VBBAEULSYUTSE CHARDONNAY coating flavours. $22 judges comment. Here $20-$25 Mitchelton Wines we feature only the 2020 HHH Preece Yarra Valley better wines. Nice lift to the toasty 13 TASTED Chardonnay citrus nose with a 7 AWARDED 2019 HHH Lake Chalice medium bodied, oak Very good peach/oak The Falcon driven, palate. $17 The judges found more aromatic intensity and Marlborough consistency in this flavoursome balance Chardonnay Dominic Wines VBBAEULSYUTSE group, however in the of stonefruit and oak. 2019 HHHH Black Label pursuit of complexity $20 Refined and restrained Langhorne some went too far! Hollydene Estate with everything in Creek Chardonnay “Keep it simple at this JUUL Four Storms balance. Nose has nutty, Leefield Station 2020 HHH price,” suggested one Upper Hunter Valley floral tropical characters Waihopai Valley judge. Chardonnay with excellent flavour Marlborough More of an old school oak 2019 HHH persistence. $18.99 Chardonnay VBBAEULSYUTSE driven style with hints Giesen Small An herbaceous edge to of pear and peach fruit Batch Hawkes Bay the citrusy nose and a 2018 HHHH characters. $17.99 Chardonnay pleasant straightforward A floral and spicy 2019 HHHH palate. $24 elegance to the nose with A beautifully balanced flavoursome citrus driven Yealands Hawkes and very flavoursome fruit flavours, a hint of oak Bay Chardonnay style with spicy citrus/ and malo creaminess. 2019 HHH melon fruit and a $19.99 NZ Tropical fruit aromas whisper of smoky oak. with toffee notes $24.99 and good length of nutty buttery flavours. $15.95 JUDGES Duane Coates Nigel Sneyd Susan Mickan Winemaker for Coates Global wine director for Winemaker. Has worked Wines. Duane has a Accolade Wines. With 34 vintages including Masters of Oenology 40 years experience has across Australia, New from Adelaide University worked with various wine Zealand, China, Spain. and has gained overseas companies such as Brown Some wineries including winemaking experience Brothers, Krug, Evans & Kirrihill, Pernod Ricard, in Burgundy, the Northern Tate, AWRI, BRL Hardy, Penfolds, Helan Mountain Rhone Valley regions in Abbots and Gallo. Has (China) and Cambo Viego. France, and the Douro judged in Rutherglen wine Judged at numerous wine Valley in Portugal. show and International shows around Australia. Wine Challenge. 56 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

varietal tasting Saint Clair Hollick Estates Bond Rosabrook Wines CHARDONNAY Salena Estate James Sinclair Road Coonawarra Margaret River $30-$35 Wines ex-PRESS- Marlborough Chardonnay Chardonnay ion Riverland Chardonnay 2018 HHH1/2 2018 HHH 14 TASTED Chardonnay 2019 HHH An old school style with An attractive pot-pourri 9 AWARDED 2020 HHH Buttery bouquet with a a complexity of buttery of fragrances with toasty Peaches and melons lift background of oak and characters, menthol notes and a firm sherbety A small group with off the toasty nose and a very oaky palate but notes, peach fruit and lemon palate. $26 better use of oak and it has a spicy oak palate has the fruit to match. “timbery” oak. $25 Trentham Reserve some exhibiting better and lemony acidity. $30 $24.50 McGuigan Cellar Tumbarumba quality fruit. Select Tumbarumba Chardonnay Haselgrove Staff Mitchelton Wines Chardonnay 2018 HHH Saint Clair Pioneer Adelaide Hills Preece Yarra Valley 2019 HHH An attractive complexity Block 11 Cell Chardonnay Chardonnay Loads of toasty oak on of toasty oak, fruit and Block Marlborough 2019 HHH 2018 HHH the nose with spicy oak buttery malo with bottle Chardonnay Lovely oak - lots of it - Toasty lime/citrus flavours, some fruit and age evident. $28 2018 HHHHH with toffee notes and bouquet and has a tight steely acidity. $25 DiGiorgio Family Light golden wine showing some peach taut palate with a good Mitchelton Wines Wines Coonawarra with green notes and and tropical fruit. $30 level of acid. $20 Estate Nagambie Chardonnay complex nutty-like Chardonnay 2018 HHH development on the Navarino 1837 CHARDONNAY 2019 HHH A leaner tighter style nose with attractive lift Bendigo Chardonnay $25-$30 Restrained aromas with with toasty/citrus of citrus and melon fruit. 2018 HHH subtle oatmeal notes. aromas and a firm acid Beautifully balanced Some toasty honeyed 24 TASTED Soft, generous and backbone. $29 palate with lovely use of aged aromas that follow 17 AWARDED biscuity in the mouth. $25 Portsea Back quality oak. $34.90 through onto the viscous Highland Heritage Beach Mornington palate. $30 A consistent group with, Mt Canobolas Peninsula Forester Estate according to the judges, Orange Chardonnay Chardonnay Premium Margaret Hollick Estates Bond some highlights and 2019 HHH 2018 HHH River Chardonnay Road Coonawarra lowlights. Nice oak influence on Bottle-age aromas with 2019 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay the citrusy nose. Palate a funky edge. Nice fruit “True to style.” Subtle 2014 HHH Cape Banks is lean and balanced weight on the palate with spicy oak aromas An attractive intensity Mount Gambier with spicy oak and good oak use. $29.95 mingling with fruit of tinned fruit Chardonnay herbal notes. $28 Barwon Ridge fragrances. Nice palate characters with smoky 2019 HHHH1/2 Centennial Geelong Chardonnay weight with lengthy oak and slightly green An interesting attractive Vineyards Winery 2017 HHH flavours of zesty fruit acidity. $30 nose with good intensity Block Southern Lots of oak influence and toasty oak. $34 of creamy peach aromas Highlands NSW layered with peach and CHARDONNAY and subtle smokiness. Chardonnay pear fruit characters and Singlefile $35-$40 Very good palate weight 2019 HHH nutty notes. $29 Great Southern with elegant varietal fruit Subtle white stonefruit Cumulus Vineyards Chardonnay 21 TASTED and some complexity fragrances with Cumulus Orange 2019 HHHH 18 AWARDED developing. $25 complementary oak Chardonnay A complex herbal/ and a straightforward 2017 HHH grassy nose with funky Finally, a solid class Delta Hatters palate. $29 Nose reminiscent of undertones. Bright, with density of fruit Hill Marlborough DiGiorgio Family rising dough and a big fresh and zesty in the well rounded, rather Chardonnay Wines Coonawarra buttery palate with lots mouth with ripe fruit than overpowered, with 2019 HHHH Chardonnay of menthol characters. flavours. $30 serious oak. “Smells like an Anzac 2019 HHH $29.99 biscuit,” thought Smoky oak nose with Hollick Estates Bond Castelli Estate Giesen Organic one judge. Gorgeous melon nuances and Road Coonawarra Pemberton Marlborough palate – balanced and a complexity of oak Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay poised with very fresh and citrus fruit on the 2016 HHH 2019 HHHH 2016 HHHHH stonefruit flavours. $27 palate. $29 A big, complex and Attractive smoky meaty An interesting nose – Flametree Wines nicely developed wine bouquet with quince- very complex with lots Mitchelton Wines Margaret River with good balance of like nuances and an of attractive nutty oak Estate Nagambie Chardonnay oak, fruit and malo. $28 elegance of fruit and and fresh citrus fruit Chardonnay 2019 HHH oak on the slightly oily characters. The palate is 2018 HHHH Leafy and herbal on the palate. $34 long and creamy with a Very oaky smoky nose nose with a leaner citrus complex oak/fruit flavour – “Hello 1990s!” Oak driven palate and some Buller Wines profile. $39.99 shows through on the tropical notes. $29 Calliope King Valley vibrant palate with Chardonnay lemony acidity and 2018 HHH1/2 lingering aftertaste. $25 Interesting complex style with toasty bottle age and good weight and intensity of slightly herbal citrus fruit characters. $NA March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 57

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D S Chain Of Ponds Brangayne Of Saint Clair Coates Wines The Ross Hill Pinnacle Corkscrew Road Orange Isolde Omaka Reserve Reserve Adelaide Orange Chardonnay Single Vineyard Reserve Orange Marlborough Hills Chardonnay 2019 HHH1/2 Adelaide Hills NSW Chardonnay Chardonnay 2019 HHHHH An oak driven style Chardonnay 2019 HHH1/2 2019 HHH Very attractive musky – very buttery with 2019 HHHH1/2 Elegant sherbet fruit Lovely oak influence on spicy characters on the honeyed aged notes An intense and complex aromas and finely the nose and plenty of nose and showing a starting to develop and “old school” style focussed fruit flavours oak on the palate with tropical edge. Delicious hints of menthol. $40 chardonnay with lovely on the bright and lively underlying fruit. $39.90 oak and honeydew Capercaillie tropical and stonefruit palate. $35 melon flavours on the The Cuillin Hunter characters, excellent use Mount Avoca Estate Sandalford Estate long well-balanced Valley Chardonnay of oak and lemon-like Organic Pyrenees Reserve Margaret palate with a tight acid 2019 HHH1/2 acidity. $35 Chardonnay River Chardonnay line. $45 A rich and flavoursome Below&Above 2019 HHH1/2 2018 HHH Lake Chalice Plume oak driven chardonnay Single Vineyard A zesty freshness to Toasty aromas with Marlborough but has pleasant Pemberton the grassy nose with subtle meaty accents. Chardonnay citrus-like varietal fruit Chardonnay interesting musky Good complexity and 2016 HHHHH underneath. $45 2017 HHHH1/2 characters on the long fruit weight on the A complex full-bodied Saddler's Creek A nose of toasty oak lingering palate. $37.95 palate. $35 and nicely layered Wines Alessandro and citrus with some Saint Clair wine. “An interesting Reserve tropical fruit influence Omaka Reserve Savitas Wines style with attractive Tumbarumba and a complex and Marlborough Alainn Fion JB flintiness,” said one Chardonnay flavoursome palate that Chardonnay Adelaide Hills judge. Palate has loads of 2019 HHH1/2 is fresh, vibrant and 2018 HHH1/2 Chardonnay creamy stonefruit varietal “Smells like Anzac ageing nicely. $38 An intensely oaky style 2018 HHH characters. $49.99 biscuits!” according to Bird In Hand with almost bacon-like A full flavoured style; Merricks Estate one judge with fantastic Adelaide Hills aromas and smoky oak smoky, nutty and toasty Mornington length and persistence Chardonnay flavours on the creamy with ripe pineapple Peninsula to the palate. $45 2019 HHHH palate. $39.90 nuances. $35 Chardonnay Tempus Two A complexity of nutty, Leura Park Estate 2018 HHHH1/2 Pewter Poppy’s custard and toffee-like Bellarine Peninsula Centennial Lovely oak evident on Block Hunter Valley aromas with a delicate Chardonnay Vineyards Reserve the pungent citrus nose Chardonnay seamlessly balanced 2019 HHH Single Vineyard and has a generous and 2018 HHH1/2 palate and taut green Stewed-like varietal fruit Southern Highlands flavoursome palate with A very nicely put apple acidity. $35 fragrances with a fresh NSW Chardonnay excellent use of oak and together wine that Coates Wines The and slightly angular 2018 HHH a lingering finish. $40 has a strong oak Adelaide Hills palate. $35 Very attractive oak Giesen The Fuder influence throughout Chardonnay Tony Bish influence here with Clayvin Marlborough and attractive varietal 2019 HHHH Heartwood Hawkes complex fruit characters Chardonnay fruit. $40 Funky sherbety-like fruit Bay Chardonnay just underneath. $39 2016 HHHH1/2 Corryton Burge The fragrances with a tight 2019 HHH Lots of roasted cashew- Patroness Adelaide palate that has zippy Nicely layered creamy CHARDONNAY like oak characters Hills Chardonnay freshness and good buttery style with subtle $40-$50 here with bottle age 2020 HHH flavour intensity. $35 fruit characters. $35 NZ complexity developing Young and intense RIKARD Orange Hollydene Show 17 TASTED and well matched by ripe with subtle zesty fruit Chardonnay Reserve Upper 14 AWARDED citrus-like fruit. $49.99 fragrances and flavours 2019 HHHH Hunter Valley Leura Park Estate and lots of acid. $45 Floral and nutty on the Chardonnay “Another step up where Block 1 Hand Clyde Park Vineyard nose with citrus notes. 2019 HHH good fruit meets good Picked Reserve Estate Geelong Good creamy flavour Funky notes to the winemaking,” noted Bellarine Peninsula Chardonnay intensity with bright nose with a good one judge. These wines Chardonnay 2019 HHH fruit and strong oak intensity of ripe covered a range of 2019 HHHH A toasty oak style with influence. $35 stonefruit flavours. $36 styles; the full-on oak A nutty and complex stonefruit characters Jack Rabbit The Crossings Wild ones, the lean and fruit nose with a coming through and a Bellarine Peninsula Awatere Valley driven and the tighter flavoursome buttery grippy tannic finish. $45 Chardonnay Marlborough ‘sparkling base’ high palate. Good use of oak Pipers Brook 2019 HHHH Chardonnay acid styles. and nice ripe fruit. $45 Vineyard Tasmania Tropical fruit bouquet 2019 HHH Plantagenet York Chardonnay with a funky edge and Tropical aromas with a Great Southern WA 2019 HHH very good intensity to menthol edge and nicely Chardonnay An interesting and the palate with some textured fruit driven 2019 HHH1/2 complex style that has quality oak and buttery palate. $39 Lovely freshness of restrained aromas and accents. $38 citrus and nectarine fruit lean fruit flavours. $45 with oak in a supporting role and good level of acidity. $40 58 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

varietal tasting Portsea Estate McGuigan Personal Silkwood Estate Château De Fuissé Trinity Hill 125 Single Vineyard Reserve Hunter The Bowman Single Pouilly Fuisse 'Tête Gimblett Rd Hawkes Mornington Ridge Hunter Valley Vineyard Pemberton De Cru' France Bay Chardonnay Peninsula Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay 2019 HHHHH Chardonnay 2019 HHHH1/2 2019 HHHH 2017 HHH1/2 A delightful bouquet 2018 HHH A lovely complexity of Another leaner style Lifted fruit aromas with of cashews, grapefruit A full-bodied, rich and nutty oak and varietal with hints of cut grass, hints of botrytis-like and spices with a very flavoursome wine with fruit aromas with a flinty glacé-like fruit elements, notes and lovely flavours rich nutty palate; great great fruit and good use edge. Elegant palate nice nutty notes and a of citrus, apricots flavour complexity with of oak. $45 with a seamless balance good acid backbone. $55 kernels and oak. $65 attractive oak in support. of flavours and salivating Domaine Rewa Nice drinking. $80 NZ CHARDONNAY acidity. $50 Single Vineyard RIKARD Black Label Plantagenet $50-$70 Flametree Wines Organic Central Orange Chardonnay Wyjup Collection SRS Margaret River Otago Chardonnay 2019 HHH Mount Barker WA 17 TASTED Chardonnay 2018 HHHH Floral citrusy nose with Chardonnay 16 AWARDED 2019 HHHH1/2 Subtle peach-like nutty nuances and a 2019 HHHHH A very consistent and Intense stonefruit fruit characters nicely lean, tight palate with a Fresh lifted fruit aromas solid group of wines. A bouquet with pretty integrated with some savoury edge. $55 with nutty/biscuity few highflyers here with floral notes and toasty very attractive toasty complexity. Beautiful others offering steady oak in support. Very oak and a good line of McGuigan Personal fine palate with nicely flavours across the tight, beautifully acid. $55 NZ Reserve Hunter focussed, and subtle board. “These need to focussed, palate with Ross Hill LT Orange Ridge Hunter Valley flavours, lovely oak and be enjoyed with food,” great length and searing Chardonnay Chardonnay leesy creaminess with said one judge. acidity. $65 2019 HHH1/2 2018 HHH lemony acidity. $70 An elegant chardonnay Very savoury style; lots of Singlefile Peccavi Margaret with a musky pot-pourri roasted meats and nutty- Family Reserve River Chardonnay of aromas and a nice like characters. $50 Great Southern 2018 HHHH1/2 intensity of well- Chardonnay Earthy mushroom-like focussed flavours. $50 Domaine Faiveley 2019 HHHHH characters on the nose Domaine William Mercurey Clos An interesting nose with a brioche element. Fèvre Domaine Rochette Blanc with smoky nutty oak “A super flinty show Chablis France France Chardonnay fragrances and hints of style palate,” thought Chardonnay 2018 HHH nectarine-like fruit. The one judge. Very cool 2018 HHH1/2 Lean and floral nose. delicious palate is poised climate. Excellent Almost marmalade-like Great palate texture, and long with subtle oak length. $65 nose. Nicely assembled some residual and bright acidity. $60 Forester Estate fruit, oak and acid sweetness and plenty of Yelverton Reserve on the palate. Good balancing acid. $55 Margaret River winemaking. $50 Chardonnay Cape Mentelle Flowstone Queen Of 2017 HHHH1/2 Margaret River The Earth Margaret A noticeably different, Chardonnay River Chardonnay lean, tight, acid driven 2018 HHH1/2 2017 HHH chardonnay. Pungent Very ripe and pungent An herbaceous pot- complexity to the nose citrus aromas with pourri of aromas and with very good length of almost botrytis-like some “wild” flavours on lemon/citrus varietal fruit elements and a rich, oily, the lean tight palate. $55 flavours. $53 peppery palate. $55 Cape Mentelle CHARDONNAY Margaret River $70-$100 Chardonnay 2017 HHH1/2 9 TASTED Attractive ‘edgy’ 7 AWARDED fragrances with oyster shell-like flintiness. Very An excellent class with good peach/oak flavour high quality oak and fruit complexity. $55 on show. “These are stylistically harmonious packages with lots of sensitively handled artefact,” enthused one judge. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 59

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D S Castelli Il Clyde Park Vineyard Clyde Park Vineyard Bird In Hand Ted Liris Denmark Single Block C Single Block B3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Geelong Chardonnay Geelong Chardonnay Chardonnay 2018 HHHHH 2019 HHHH 2019 HHH1/2 2017 HHHHH Citrus and nectarine Silky textured An oak driven style Long, linear, refined fruit lifts off the nose chardonnay with strong but is in balance with and harmonious with floral touches. A buttery oak influence the peach-like varietal describes this wine with tight high acid palate, throughout. Very good fruit. Has a firm acid intriguing fruit characters that offers great ageing aromatic intensity and a backbone. $75 interwoven with some potential, with long tight palate. $90 excellent oak. “Very complex flinty fruit Domaine William CHARDONNAY delicious,” said one flavours. $70 Fèvre Vaillons $100+ judge. $150 Bird In Hand Nest Premier Cru France Olivier Leflaive Egg Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 10 TASTED Puligny Montrachet Chardonnay 2018 HHHH 10 AWARDED France Chardonnay 2018 HHHH1/2 Lean, linear and 2017 HHHHH The nose is an aromatic beautifully poised wine An outstanding group of A really delicious combination of toasty with a background of French and Australian wine with a complex oak and peaches with oak, great texture, good chardonnays with great mix of brioche and a big, delicious, lemon fruit weight and some competition between custard-like aromas and butter of a palate with savouriness. $90 the two. “Delicious, flavours reminiscent of loads of oak but without poised wines showing Portuguese tarts with a being heavy. $75 great balance and Yarra Yering Yarra crisp acid backbone. $185 complexity,” concluded Valley Chardonnay one judge. 2019 HHHHH Smells earthy and mushroom-like with ripe peach fruit underneath. Incredible length of fruit flavours nicely balanced by the oak with plenty of acidity to ensure ageing potential. $105 WKR A DIFFERENT KIND OF ‘SELLAR’! Discover Delicia King William Road, a ‘sellar’ of fine acai bowls, textured raw treats, very smooth award winning coffees, unique warm vegan meals, and vibrant, edgey smoothies and shakes, all will enjoy! Call in and be surprised at Delicia KWR! Delicia King William Road 54a King William Road, Goodwood, SA. Phone 0401114823 Open Mon- Fri 8am to 4pm • Weekends 9am to 4pm Order online at www.deliciaacaibar.com Ubereats, Deliveroo, or Phone orders. 60 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

varietal tasting Singlefile Limited Domaine William Chateau Des Quarts STAR RATINGS  Release The Fèvre Les Clos Pouilly Fuisse 'Clos Vivienne Denmark Grand Cru France Des Quarts' France Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2018 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 2016 HHH1/2 All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Flinty citrus fragrances A harmony of pot-pourri Nutty complexity to the professionals and are compared in peer with loads of toasty fragrances and a nicely nose with a slight funky classes by three judges. oak. Very herbal-like on balanced, delicious flavour edge. Generous palate CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, the creamy palate with profile with a slightly developing nice, aged a major mail-order business. roasted cashew oak chalky texture. $260 characters. $130 CD Cellar door price. elements and mouth Domaine William Domaine Faiveley CDO Cellar door only. coating flavours. $100 Fèvre Bougros \"Cote Puligny Montrachet SO Sold out. Domaine William De Bouguerots\" 1er Cru Folatières $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Fèvre Fourchaume Grand Cru France France Chardonnay Premier Cru France Chardonnay 2017 HHH  Contact information pg 80. Chardonnay 2018 HHHH Very lifted citrus 2018 HHHH1/2 Honey sweet nose with sherbet-like aromas with RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Honeyed aromas with an oatmeal-like edge. gorgeous oak on the rich subtle quality oak in Soft and creamy in the palate. $200 the background. Very mouth with a richness savoury palate with of flavours and savoury lovely tight line of acidity phenolics. $230 and shy on fruit. Needs Domaines Leflaive food. $115 & Associés Pouilly Fuissé France Chardonnay 2017 HHHH Big toasty oak aromas with ripe citrus fruit and smoked meats and very powerful oak across the palate. A touch warm. $102 March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 61

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN MARLBOROUGH A PERSONAL TOUCH Scores of vineyards rub shoulders along popular form of transport around the cellar the Wairau and Awatere Valleys. These vast doors. All privately located around the FOR visitors who prefer personalised service, flat areas are ideal for a gentle gourmet property, cottages are equipped with a Lochmara Lodge is a locally owned and cycle tour. From the small township of barbecue for al fresco dining. operated small resort that opened 22 years Renwick, there are 30 great wineries within ago and still has only 14 rooms. a 24-km circuit. Bike hire is easy to arrange. There are five restored, fully self- contained character cottages from which Lochmara’s attractions include a cafe set More than 70% of the country's export to choose, the Woolshed, the Cottage, right on the water’s edge, a permanently production of green shell mussels takes place the Stables, the Shearer’s Quarters, and moored underwater observatory and in Marlborough Sound, while 75% of the King the Old Diary. 11 acres to explore on the Marlborough or Chinook harvested salmon is also from Sounds in Lochmara Bay, Queen Charlotte there. Visit the seafood farms on an organised Breakfast is self-catering. The kitchenette Sound, Picton. tour and sample the local delicacies with in each unit is stocked with milk, eggs, a glass of award-winning Marlborough juice, jams, yogurt, cereals, tea, and There are no roads, but water transport can sauvignon blanc. coffee. In season, fruit may also be picked be arranged from Picton – and the property from the fruit trees on the grounds. The has a scenic 3.5km walking track to the Lunch menus at favourites such as Allan eggs are provided by the property’s own famous Queen Charlotte Track. Scott Wines, Brancott Estate Heritage Centre hens. The accommodation is surrounded and Wither Hills feature local delicacies like by vineyards, one of which is a Wither All room rates include free wifi, entry into art smoked salmon and blue cod. Talented chefs, Hills block, growing pinot gris grapes. For and nature walks and free use of kayaks and from New Zealand and around the world, details see www.stleonards.co.nz/ paddle boards. The bush environment (with are drawn to Marlborough’s high-quality no TVs) makes it an ideal bush escape. See ingredients and outdoor lifestyle. LOTS TO LOVE AT LUXURY www.lochmara.co.nz LODGE The Hans Herzog winery and restaurant NOT JUST SAUVIGNON offers exquisite fine dining in the evening as MARLBOROUGH Lodge, one of the grandest BLANC! well as more relaxed dining for lunch and addresses in the region, is being rebranded dinner in their bistro. For something with the as The Marlborough – and moved up to luxury WITH 84% of the country’s plantings, extra wow factor, they offer pre-dinner tours lodge status. A luxury country estate located Marlborough is New Zealand’s undisputed of their winery and barrel hall with a tasting in the heart of the vines, The Marlborough is sauvignon blanc capital. of three wines. hidden in 16 acres of private parklands that include a swimming pool and tennis court. The region’s second VIP grape is pinot In Havelock, \"the green shell mussel capital noir. Acclaim is mounting for Marlborough’s of the world\" succulent mussels can be There are 10 contemporary rooms and the fragrant, mouth-filling reds which are richly savoured in a pleasing array of restaurants, on-site restaurant, Harvest, is overseen by flavoured and supple. Other Marlborough cafes and even on a cruise. leading English chef Toby Stuart. wine specialties include fresh, vibrantly fruity chardonnays and crisp rieslings. PICTURESQUE PRIVATE Designed by Thomas Turnbull and built ESCAPE in 1901 for the Sisters of Mercy, the former NESTLED in the heart of the vineyards, St Leonard Vineyard Cottages is set on 4.5 acres of beautiful gardens. All of the private cottages offer views of either the mountains, vines, or gardens. Guests can enjoy exploring the grounds admiring the mature trees, bird life and vines and are welcome to feed the sheep, deer, and chickens. Activities include swimming in an outdoor pool and playing petanque or tennis. Cycle tours are a 62 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

travelbriefs Victorian Convent was originally located next WINE & ROSES AT WAIRAU is unashamedly Brazilian influenced. to St Mary's Church in Blenheim. It provided RIVER WINES The name comes from a small town 19 bedrooms for the nuns, a library, music room, sewing room, office, and a beautiful THE lunch menu at Wairau River Wines in southern Brazil with a reputation for chapel upstairs on the first floor. is built around the fresh produce that is gourmet excellence and the menu features readily available in the Marlborough district. Brazilian and New Zealand dishes with a Native timbers were extensively used Guests can enjoy matching wines at cellar focus on seafood, vegetarian dishes, and in the construction including Matai, Rimu door prices with lunch in a relaxed informal gluten-free specialities. South American and Kauri. One of the many splendid environment either outside on the sunny dishes prepared by chef Saulo Camillo examples of Victorian craftsmanship is the lawns and verandas, or inside beside the Nunes include Brazilian cheese breads; substantial carved staircase, constructed large open fire in winter. cassava cakes; fish moqueca, porco loco entirely from Kauri. and feijoada stew. The Rose family are pioneer grape growers In 1994, the Convent was moved in five in Marlborough and today their five children Gramado’s is open Tuesday-Saturday with pieces to its present location in Rapaura, all take an active role in the business. bookings essential. Gramado's Restaurant Marlborough. The task of restoration then Established 30 years ago, Wairau River Wines And Bar is at 74 Main St, Blenheim. Visit www. began under the guidance of architect Sir takes its name from the beautifully braided gramadosrestaurant.com. Michael Fowler. The property operated as river on whose banks Phil and Chris Rose Old St Mary’s Convent B&B until 2016 when planted their first vines. it was sold and underwent an extensive refurbishment. The menu may include starters like Marlborough mussel chowder with toasted The Harvest kitchen features cooking using garlic bread or chicken liver pâtè with a Mibrasa charcoal oven; widely used in cornichons. Mains may feature chilli salt Michelin-starred restaurants. Think starters prawns; double-baked blue cheese soufflé like charcoal roasted green shell mussels or Manuka smoked salmon with potato cake, with garlic and parsley butter; Tua Tua clams, herb and caper salsa and feta whip. Visit chilli, and wild fennel butter; cured kingfish, www.wairauriverwines.com. seaweed bouillon, furikake and pickled cucumber with avocado cream. Mains may feature Awatere lamb with baked kumara, walnut and celery gremolata. “Charcoal cooking is versatile, hands- on and creative, allowing us to push the limits of the menu,” says Stuart. See www. themarlboroughlodge.co.nz. A TASTE OF BRAZIL IN NZ Opposite page top right: Exploring Marlborough on a cycling tour. Middle left: Aerial view of Lochmara Lodge. A SMALL New Zealand town might be an Middle right: Exterior of St Leonards. unlikely spot to find a Brazilian-accented licensed eatery but cosy Gramado’s restaurant Top: Marlborough Sounds. Middle: Wairau River vineyard food. Bottom left: Exterior of The Marlborough. Bottom right: Gramado's restaurant. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 63

MARLBOROUGH JUDGED BY 87 TASTED Michael Cooper 87 RECOMMENDED Winestate’s New Zealand editor is MARLBOROUGH author of the internationally acclaimed Wine Atlas of New Zealand and the annual New Zealand Wines: Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide, now in its 29th edition. In the 2004 New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for services to wine writing. This memorable tasting reflected the favourable nature of the Ara Resolute Blind River Tekau 2020 and 2019 growing seasons in Marlborough. Highlights Organic Awatere Valley included the flavour-packed sauvignon blancs from the notably Marlborough Barrel Fermented dry 2020 vintage, the dark, rich pinot noirs from the low-yielding Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 vintage, and the classy, complex pinot noirs from 2017, 2019 HHHHH Sauvignon Blanc which now offer delicious drinking. Offering delicious 2018 HHHHH drinking from now Pale gold, this Underlining the versatility of New Zealand’s largest wine region onwards, this is a distinctive, weighty, by far, the tasting also unearthed outstanding examples of single-vineyard, partly single vineyard wine chardonnay, gewürztraminer, sweet white wine, sparkling wine, barrel-fermented wine. was fermented with rosé and – the big surprise – syrah. Bright, light yellow/ indigenous yeasts and green, with a complex matured for 10 months Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines bouquet, it is weighty, in French oak barriques available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia; (UK) ripe and rounded, with (10% new). Probably and (US). concentrated, tropical at its peak, it has rich, fruit flavours, showing tropical fruit flavours, SPARKLINGS SAUVIGNON a distinct touch of gentle toasty notes BLANC complexity, and a very adding complexity, 2 TASTED harmonious finish. balanced acidity and 2 RECOMMENDED 34 TASTED Certified organic. $29 a dry, well-rounded, 34 RECOMMENDED Babich Black harmonious finish. $32 Hunter’s Miru Miru Label Marlborough Giesen The August Reserve A memorable class, Sauvignon Blanc 1888 Marlborough 2016 HHHHH reflecting the positive 2020 HHHHH Sauvignon Blanc This richly flavoured impact on quality of the Designed for on-premise 2018 HHHHH sparkling was blended unusually dry growing consumption, this This powerful, distinctive from pinot noir (49%), season – from late classy, tightly structured, wine was hand-picked, chardonnay (36%) and December to mid-April, youthful wine is fresh barrel-fermented and pinot meunier (15%) the Marlborough region and full-bodied, with lees-aged. Weighty and disgorged after over recorded less than a generous, ripe, tropical and fleshy, it has three years on its yeast quarter of its normal fruit flavours, showing concentrated, tropical lees. Bright, light lemon/ rainfall. Many of the a distinct touch of fruit flavours, showing green, it is fragrant 2020 sauvignon blancs complexity, moderate excellent complexity, and mouthfilling, with display notably intense, acidity and a finely and a dry, rounded strong, peachy, yeasty, ripely herbaceous poised, dry, lingering finish. Drink now or slightly nutty flavours, varietal aromas and finish. $25 cellar. $40 showing excellent flavours. The class complexity, harmony Hunter’s Miru Miru also included several Blind River Awatere Jackson Estate and length. $40 NV HHHH1/2 outstanding, barrel- Valley Marlborough Grey Ghost Barrique This vivacious aged wines from earlier Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley Marlborough bubbly is vintages. 2020 HHHHH Marlborough a blend of chardonnay Showing excellent Sauvignon Blanc (50%), pinot noir (46%) intensity, this single 2016 HHHHH and pinot meunier vineyard wine was Still youthful, this (4%), disgorged after partly (10%) barrel- refined, complex, 18 months on its yeast fermented. Very fresh single vineyard wine lees. Pale straw, it has and lively, it is full- was hand-picked from strong, citrusy, biscuity, bodied, with penetrating vines planted in 1988 yeasty flavours, melon, passionfruit and fermented with showing very good and green capsicum indigenous yeasts complexity, and a crisp, flavours, showing good in seasoned French lingering finish. Fine complexity, and a dry, oak barriques. Bright, value. $29 (UK) lasting finish. Best light lemon/green, it is drinking mid-2021+. $30 medium to full-bodied, (A, UK) with vigorous, ripely herbaceous, tropical fruit flavours, finely integrated oak, fresh acidity and a long finish. Maturing very gracefully. $29 64 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

regional tasting Lake Chalice The Saint Clair Raptor Marlborough Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2020 HHHHH Sauvignon Blanc This intensely aromatic, 2020 HHHHH notably fresh and vibrant This classy, very wine was grown at youthful wine was Dillons Point, in the grown at Dillons Point. lower Wairau Valley. Light lemon/green, Bright, light lemon/ it is full-bodied, with green, it has penetrating, vibrant tropical fruit and pure melon, lime and herbaceous flavours, a green capsicum flavours, vague salty note, and showing excellent impressive delicacy, delicacy, a distinct touch depth and harmony. of complexity, and a dry, Showing obvious persistent finish. It’s potential, it should break already drinking well. into full stride mid- $23 (UK) 2021+. $35 (A, UK, US) Loveblock Saint Clair Pioneer Delta Hatters Inviniti Marlborough Lawson’s Dry Marlborough Block 1 Foundation Hill Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc 2020 HHHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2020 HHHH1/2 Full of varietal character, 2020 HHHH1/2 Certified organic, this 2020 HHHHH Still very youthful, this this pale, youthful wine Still very youthful, is a top vintage of this A classic Dillons single vineyard wine is medium-bodied, with this punchy wine was single vineyard, Awatere Point style, this was grown at Dillons very good intensity of principally handled in Valley wine. Showing single vineyard wine Point, in the lower melon, lime and green tanks, but 5% of the excellent complexity is intensely varietal, Wairau Valley, and capsicum flavours, crisp, blend was fermented (one-third of the blend notably fresh and 40% of the blend was dry and lingering. “From a with indigenous yeasts was aged in a mix of vibrant, with deep, matured in seasoned number of vineyard sites in old oak barrels. clay amphorae, barrels pure melon and green French oak barriques. in Marlborough,” it tastes Light lemon/green, it and concrete eggs), it capsicum flavours, a Mouthfilling, with good of the Awatere Valley to is mouthfilling, with is mouthfilling, fleshy, slightly salty note, and weight, it has vibrant, me. (From Lawson’s Dry vigorous passionfruit, sweet-fruited and dry, a dry, lasting finish. $29 ripely herbaceous Hills.) $18 (A, UK) lime and green capsicum with concentrated, ripely (A, UK, US) flavours, showing Giesen Uncharted flavours, showing herbaceous flavours Saint Clair Pioneer a distinct touch of Marlborough excellent delicacy and and a finely balanced, Block 3 43 Degrees complexity, and a long, Sauvignon Blanc harmony, that build to a long finish. Drink now or Marlborough zingy finish. $27 2020 HHHH1/2 lasting finish. $25 (A, UK) cellar. $22 Sauvignon Blanc Delta Marlborough Already delicious, this Lawson’s Dry Jackson Estate 2020 HHHHH Sauvignon Blanc distinctive Awatere Hills Reserve Somerset Block This punchy, youthful 2020 HHHH1/2 Valley wine was hand- Marlborough 2 Single Vineyard wine was grown at Well worth trying, this picked and handled Sauvignon Blanc Waihopai Valley Dillons Point. Highly single vineyard wine in a mix of stainless 2020 HHHH1/2 Marlborough aromatic, it is medium- was grown in the lower steel tanks, French oak Very fresh and lively, Sauvignon Blanc bodied and zesty, with Wairau Valley. Fresh barriques and German this medium to full- 2017 HHHHH vibrant tropical fruit and and punchy, it is highly oak fuders. Bright, light/ bodied wine was Full of personality, herbaceous flavours, a aromatic, with very green, it is a ripely grown in the Awatere this intensely varietal salty streak, and excellent good intensity of ripely scented, lively, medium and Wairau valleys wine was handled intensity and length. Best herbaceous flavours, dry to full-bodied wine, with and mostly handled without oak. Full- drinking mid-2021+. $29 and lingering. $20 (A) very good intensity of in tanks; 10% of the bodied and fleshy, with (A, UK, US) fresh melon, passionfruit blend was fermented in concentrated, ripe, Saint Clair Pioneer and herb flavours, old oak barrels. Ripely tropical fruit flavours, Block 20 Cash balanced acidity and a herbaceous, it shows good acid spine and Block Marlborough dry finish. $20 very good intensity, with a long, dry finish, it’s Sauvignon Blanc finely balanced acidity drinking well now. $29 2020 HHHHH and a distinct touch Still very youthful, this of complexity. Best single-vineyard, Dillons drinking mid-2021+. $30 Point wine is weighty, (A, UK, US) with intense flavours of passionfruit, melons and green capsicums, fresh, appetising acidity and a lasting finish. $29 (UK, US) March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 65

MARLBOROUGH Rock Ferry 3rd Hunter’s VBBAEULSYUTSE Villa Maria Private Lawson’s Dry Rock Marlborough Marlborough Bin Marlborough Hills The Pioneer Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Pinot 2020 HHHH1/2 Blanc 2020 HHHH 2020 HHHH Gris 2016 HHHH1/2 This ripely scented wine Estate-grown in the Delicious from the start, Probably at its peak, this was estate-grown at Wairau Valley, this this mouthfilling wine pale gold, fleshy wine Rapaura, hand-picked fresh, crisp, dry wine has fresh, strong, ripely was hand-harvested in and fermented in was partly (10%) herbaceous aromas the Waihopai Valley and stainless steel tanks and fermented in large and flavours, with hints fermented in old French a seasoned oak cuve. French oak barrels. of passionfruit, lime oak barriques. Weighty, Full-bodied, it has good Medium to full-bodied, and green capsicum. it has rich stonefruit concentration of lively, it has good depth of Showing good weight and and vaguely honeyed tropical fruit flavours, ripely herbaceous, delicacy, it is fractionally flavours, showing good a touch of complexity, passionfruit/lime off-dry, with a crisp, finely complexity, a slightly oily balanced acidity and a flavours that linger balanced finish. Great texture and an off-dry dry finish. Best drinking well. Best drinking value. $15 finish. $39 mid-2021+. Certified mid-2021+. $20 (A, Saint Clair Godfrey’s organic. $25 (A, UK) UK, US) Giesen Marlborough Creek Reserve Vidal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Haha Marlborough Lake Chalice The 2020 HHH1/2 Gris 2018 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Falcon Marlborough Very fresh and lively, Drinking well now, this 2019 HHHH1/2 2020 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc this crisp, medium- full-bodied, strongly Maturing very gracefully, Full of youthful impact, 2020 HHHH bodied wine has tropical varietal wine was grown this mouthfilling, sweet- this aromatic wine Offering good value, this fruit and herbaceous in the lower Brancott fruited wine was grown was grown mostly fresh, crisp, full-bodied flavours, showing very Valley. Bright, light in the Wairau Valley in the Wairau Valley. wine was grown at good vigour and depth. lemon/green, it is fresh (85%) and the Awatere Intensely varietal, it has Dillons Point, in the Priced sharply. $15 and vigorous, with pear, Valley (15%). Probably zingy tropical fruit and lower Wairau Valley. lychee and spice flavours, now in full stride, it herbaceous flavours, Ripely herbaceous, The Sisters showing excellent has concentrated, ripe, very crisp and punchy. it has good intensity Marlborough delicacy and depth, and a tropical fruit flavours, $18 (A) of passionfruit, lime Sauvignon Blanc dry finish. $35 lees-aging notes adding Babich Marlborough and green capsicum 2020 HHH1/2 Ara Single Estate complexity, and a dry, Sauvignon Blanc flavours, a slightly salty This zesty wine is fresh Marlborough Pinot long finish. $20 2020 HHHH streak and a lingering and medium-bodied, Gris 2020 HHHH Ara Single Estate Already drinking well, finish. $19 (A, UK) with very good depth This refined young wine Marlborough this is a ripely scented, of citrusy, green- is medium-bodied, fresh Sauvignon Blanc sweet-fruited wine. Full- Saint Clair Origin edged flavours and an and vibrantly fruity, with 2020 HHHH bodied, it has tropical Marlborough appetisingly crisp finish. pear, lychee and spice From grapes estate- fruit flavours, showing Sauvignon Blanc (From Lawson’s Dry flavours, showing very grown across the very good depth, fresh 2020 HHHH Hills.) $18 good delicacy and depth, Wairau Valley, this is a acidity and a dry finish. This intensely varietal and an off-dry, finely medium to full-bodied $20 wine was grown mostly in Vidal Marlborough balanced finish. $22 wine, ripely herbaceous, Giesen Organic the lower Wairau Valley. Sauvignon Blanc Inviniti Marlborough with strong, vigorous Marlborough Aromatic, it is full-bodied 2020 HHH1/2 Pinot Gris melon and lime flavours, Sauvignon Blanc and vibrantly fruity, with Showing lively 2020 HHHH fresh, crisp and dry. 2020 HHHH passionfruit, lime and herbaceous characters, Already enjoyable, this Best drinking mid- From Wairau Valley green capsicum flavours, this aromatic wine has estate-grown wine has 2021+. $22 sites, this is a full-bodied a slightly salty streak, and fresh melon and green a fresh, gently spicy Babich Family wine, ripely scented, very good delicacy and capsicum flavours, crisp bouquet. Mouthfilling Estates Organic with very good weight depth. $20 (A, UK, US) and lingering. $16 and vibrantly fruity, it Marlborough and depth of lively, has vigorous peach, Sauvignon Blanc passionfruit and lime Villa Maria PINOT GRIS pear and spice flavours, 2020 HHHH flavours, balanced acidity Cellar Selection showing very good Certified organic, this and a dry finish. Certified Marlborough 7 TASTED depth, and a dryish single vineyard wine organic. $20 Sauvignon Blanc 7 RECOMMENDED finish. (From Lawson’s is weighty and dry, 2020 HHHH Dry Hills.) $18 with ripe, tropical fruit Still very youthful, this A strong class of very Loveblock flavours, showing very weighty, fleshy wine approachable wines, Marlborough Pinot good depth. Sweet- is ripely scented, with with most entries Gris 2020 HHHH fruited, with balanced strong, fresh passionfruit exhibiting vibrant Certified organic, this acidity and a fresh, and lime flavours, lively pear, lychee and spice single-vineyard, Awatere lingering finish, it should acidity and a dry finish. flavours, moderate Valley wine is medium- be at its best mid- Best drinking mid- acidity and a slightly off- bodied, with very 2021+. $25 2021+. $18 dry finish. good depth of vibrant pear, lychee and spice flavours, a vague hint of sweetness, fresh acidity and a finely balanced finish. Best drinking 2022+. $22 (UK) 66 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

regional tasting Villa Maria GEWURZTRAMINER CHARDONNAY Hunter’s Babich Family Cellar Selection 3 TASTED Marlborough Estates Organic Marlborough Pinot 3 RECOMMENDED 8 TASTED Chardonnay Marlborough Gris 2020 HHHH 8 RECOMMENDED 2019 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay This fleshy, full-bodied Lawson’s Dry Offering fine value, this 2019 HHHH wine is youthful, with very Hills The Pioneer An impressive class, refined, generous wine Already drinking well, good depth of vibrant, ripe Marlborough with styles ranging was grown at Rapaura, this single vineyard wine stonefruit, pear and spice Gewürztraminer from elegant, vibrantly Renwick and Omaka, is pale straw, with a flavours, and a finely 2019 HHHHH fruity wines, gently and fermented and fragrant, slightly biscuity balanced, slightly off-dry Showing unusual seasoned with oak, to matured for 10 months bouquet. Weighty, it finish. Best drinking complexity for more powerful, weighty, in French oak puncheons has ripe stone-fruit mid-2021+. Fine value. gewürztraminer, this barrel-fermented (15% new). Fresh, flavours, showing good $15 estate-grown wine was chardonnays, complex vibrant and full-bodied, complexity, balanced Lake Chalice harvested from mature, and richly flavoured. it has strong, ripe, acidity and a slightly The Falcon 20- to 40-year-old citrusy, peachy flavours, creamy texture. Certified Marlborough Pinot vines, and fermented Giesen Organic showing excellent vigour organic. $25 Gris 2019 HHH1/2 with indigenous yeasts Marlborough and complexity, and a Drinking well now, this in seasoned French Chardonnay tightly structured, long Lake Chalice is a fresh, full-bodied oak barriques. Bright, 2019 HHHHH finish. A top vintage of The Falcon wine, with very good light lemon/green, This youthful, very this label. $25 Marlborough depth of peach and pear with a youthful, highly ageworthy wine has Hunter’s Offshoot Chardonnay flavours, hints of ginger perfumed bouquet, it is a fragrant, complex, Marlborough 2019 HHHH and spices, balanced notably concentrated, slightly biscuity bouquet. Chardonnay Already drinking well, acidity and a dry finish. with peach, pear and Weighty, with generous, 2018 HHHH1/2 this Wairau Valley wine $19 (A) spice flavours, gentle peachy, citrusy, mealy Still very youthful, this was tank-fermented and sweetness, a slightly flavours, it is complex vibrant, medium- then briefly matured in RIESLING oily texture and obvious and savoury, with bodied wine was seasoned French oak potential. Best drinking a creamy-textured, hand-harvested from barriques. Very fresh and 2 TASTED 2022+. $39 very harmonious and mature vines at Rapaura lively, with a fragrant, 2 RECOMMENDED Saint Clair Godfrey’s lingering finish. Best and fermented and citrusy bouquet, it has Creek Reserve drinking 2022+. $40 matured in large (900 strong grapefruit and Hunter’s Marlborough litres) French oak casks peach flavours, gently Marlborough Gewürztraminer Giesen Uncharted (30% new). Bright, seasoned with biscuity Riesling 2020 HHHH 2020 HHHH1/2 Marlborough light lemon/green, it oak, considerable Still very youthful, this Grown in the lower Chardonnay has intense stonefruit complexity, and a finely attractively scented, Brancott Valley, this 2020 HHHH1/2 flavours, seasoned with balanced finish. Good single vineyard wine exotically perfumed, Instantly appealing, this biscuity oak, very good value. $19 was grown at Rapaura, mouthfilling wine has wine was hand-picked vigour and complexity, on the north side of rich, ripe flavours of in the Wairau Valley and a persistent finish. OTHER the Wairau Valley. peaches, lychees and and Southern Valleys Best drinking 2022+. WHITES Pale lemon/green, it spices, with a fresh, and fermented in a $35 (UK) has strong, citrusy, off-dry finish. Still very combination of French Saint Clair 2 TASTED appley flavours, just a youthful, it should be at oak hogsheads and Omaka Reserve 2 RECOMMENDED hint of sweetness, and its best 2022+. $35 puncheons, and large Marlborough an appetisingly crisp, Loveblock (1000 litres) German Chardonnay Lawson’s Dry Hills lingering finish. Open Marlborough oak barrels. An elegant, 2019 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Ranu 2022+. $20 Gewürztraminer lively wine with a slightly Made in a powerful, 2020 HHHH1/2 Lake Chalice 2020 HHHH creamy bouquet, it ‘upfront’ style, this This distinctive wine Marlborough Enjoyable young, this is mouthfilling, with Omaka Valley wine is a blend of pinot Riesling 2020 HHHH attractively perfumed strong, citrusy, gently has a nutty, biscuity gris, riesling and Full of youthful vigour, wine was estate-grown biscuity flavours and a bouquet. Full-bodied, gewürztraminer, this finely poised, in the lower Awatere fresh, crisp, sustained with concentrated, harvested on the same single vineyard wine Valley. Pale lemon/ finish. Best drinking mid- peachy, citrusy flavours, day and co-fermented was harvested early, to green, it is medium- 2021+. $30 strongly seasoned with with indigenous yeasts achieve a low alcohol bodied, with soft, oak, it is youthful, with in old French barriques. style (10% alc/vol). gently sweet peach, a rich, creamy-smooth Still very youthful, it is Tangy, tightly structured pear, lychee and spice finish. Best drinking medium-bodied, with and gently sweet, it flavours, showing very 2022+. $40 (A, UK) good intensity of fresh, is light and lively, with good delicacy and Ara Single Estate vigorous pear, citrus strong, lemony, appley depth. $22 Marlborough fruit and spice flavours, flavours. A medium Chardonnay showing a distinct touch style, it should break 2019 HHHH of complexity, and a into full stride 2022+. This attractive Wairau crisp, dryish finish. Open $19 (UK) Valley wine is full-bodied 2022+. $39 and creamy-textured, with strong, fresh, citrusy, peachy flavours, gently seasoned with oak, and finely balanced acidity. Best drinking 2022+. $22 March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 67

MARLBOROUGH Saint Clair Pioneer Rock Ferry Ara Resolute Saint Clair Villa Maria Block 29 Blind Block Orchard Vineyard Organic Omaka Reserve Single Vineyard Awatere Valley Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot The Attorney Albariño Rosé 2020 HHHHH Noir 2017 HHHHH Noir 2019 HHHHH Marlborough Pinot 2020 HHHH Bright pink, this Delicious now, but still This powerful, Noir 2017 HHHHH Still very youthful, this full-bodied wine was unfolding, this single concentrated, single Certified organic, this crisp, medium-bodied made from pinot vineyard red was grown vineyard red was classy red was grown wine was partly barrel- noir, hand-picked at in the Wairau Valley. Full- grown in the Southern in the Southern Valleys. fermented. Pale and Rapaura and briefly coloured, with a fragrant, Valleys and matured for Deep ruby, it is powerful tangy, it has very good lees-aged. Showing complex bouquet, it 11 months in French and very savoury, with vigour and intensity of strong personality, it is a mouthfilling, very oak barrels (25 per cent concentrated, vibrant vibrant, citrusy, gently has abundant peach, generous wine, with ripe new). Deeply coloured cherry, plum and spice spicy flavours. Best strawberry and spice cherry, plum and spice and weighty, it has rich flavours, showing drinking 2022+. $29 (UK) flavours, fresh and lively, flavours, and a rich, finely cherry, plum, spice and impressive complexity. and a crisp, dry, lasting balanced, smooth finish. nut flavours, complex Still youthful, it should be ROSÉ finish. Certified organic. Great value. $33 and savoury, and a at its best 2022+. $60 $25 (A, UK) FROMM Cuvée ‘H’ long, finely structured Delta Hatters Hill 4 TASTED Marlborough Pinot finish. Best drinking Marlborough Pinot 4 RECOMMENDED Awatere River Noir 2017 HHHHH 2023+. $46 (A, UK, US) Noir 2019 HHHH1/2 Rosé is all the rage Spindrift Single Designed as ‘a mindful Villa Maria Reserve From a single vineyard in New Zealand, and Vineyard Rosé blend of what our single Marlborough Pinot in the Southern Valleys, these examples from 2020 HHHH1/2 vineyard wines offer as Noir 2019 HHHHH this concentrated Marlborough – made This lively, medium- a composite’, this is a This powerful, red shows obvious from pinot noir, or bodied wine was made beautifully perfumed, youthful red was potential for cellaring. blends of pinot noir and from pinot noir, grown deep ruby red, full- hand-harvested in the Deeply coloured, it is pinot gris - are enticingly in the Awatere Valley. bodied, with generous, Awatere Valley and mouthfilling and fruit- fresh, vibrant and full- Pale pink, it is vibrantly savoury, complex the Southern Valleys packed, with rich, vibrant flavoured. fruity, with delicate, ripe flavours and a finely and matured in French berry and spice flavours, strawberry, watermelon textured, long finish. oak barriques (22% savoury notes adding Lawson’s Dry Hills and red berry flavours, Currently delicious, it new). Deep ruby, it is complexity, and ripe, Pink Pinot fresh acidity and a should be long-lived. full-bodied and savoury, supple tannins. Best 2020 HHHHH basically dry finish. $30 Certified organic. $65 with deep cherry, plum, drinking 2022+. $35 Already delicious and (A, UK, US) spice and nut flavours, Hunter’s showing unusual Lake Chalice The slightly earthy notes Marlborough Pinot depth for rosé, this is Falcon Marlborough adding complexity and Noir 2019 HHHH1/2 a Marlborough blend Rosé 2020 HHHH a rich, finely poised This powerful, fine value of pinot noir and pinot This floral, bright finish. Best drinking red should be long-lived. gris. Bright pink, it is pink wine is instantly 2024+. $50 Grown at Omaka, in freshly scented and appealing. It has very Villa Maria Single the Southern Valleys, mouthfilling, with vibrant good depth of fresh, Vineyard Southern it was hand-picked and strawberry, watermelon vibrant strawberry, Clays Marlborough matured for 10 months and spice flavours, watermelon and spice Pinot Noir in French oak casks strong, dry and lingering. flavours, finely poised 2017 HHHHH (25% new). Deeply $25 for early consumption. Maturing very coloured, it is full-bodied, $19 gracefully, this deep with concentrated, well- ruby red was grown ripened cherry, plum and PINOT NOIR on the south side of spice flavours, deep and the Wairau Valley and youthful. Best drinking 21 TASTED matured in French oak 2023+. $30 (A, UK, US) 21 RECOMMENDED barriques (23% new). Lawson’s Dry Finely perfumed, full- Hills The Pioneer Over half of New bodied and still full of Marlborough Pinot Zealand’s pinot noir youthful vigour, it has Noir 2015 HHHH1/2 flows from Marlborough, rich cherry, plum and Still youthful, this with north-facing clay spice flavours that build powerful red was slopes in the Southern to a long, supple, very grown in the Waihopai Valleys especially harmonious finish. Best Valley and matured for sought-after as sites. drinking 2022+. $60 16 months in French The low-cropping 2019 oak barriques (25 per vintage has yielded cent new). Deeply intensely coloured, coloured, it is vibrantly flavour-packed pinot fruity, with strong, ripe noirs, well worth buying. plum, cherry and spice The tasting also included flavours, seasoned with several superb pinot nutty oak, and very noirs from the 2017 good complexity. Best vintage, just starting to drinking 2022+. $49 break into full stride. 68 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

regional tasting Saint Clair Pioneer Giesen Uncharted Babich Family OTHER REDS SWEET Block 22 Barn Block Marlborough Pinot Estates Organic WHITES Marlborough Pinot Noir 2019 HHHH Marlborough Pinot 3 TASTED Noir 2019 HHHH1/2 This bold, youthful Noir 2018 HHH1/2 3 RECOMMENDED 1 TASTED Likely to be long-lived, red was grown in the Ruby hued, this 1 RECOMMENDED this boldly coloured, Southern Valleys and single vineyard red Giesen Limited savoury red is from matured in French oak is mouthfilling and Edition Organic FROMM Riesling a warm site at the puncheons (24% new). sweet-fruited, with Marlborough Syrah Spatlese base of the hills on Full-coloured, it is freshly youthful, moderately 2016 HHHHH 2020 HHHHH the south side of scented and vibrantly concentrated cherry, Grown in the Southern Light and lively, this is a the Wairau Valley. A fruity, with generous, plum and spice flavours, Valleys, this is a top refined, very low alcohol powerful, youthful ripe cherry, plum and fresh acidity, and example of South Island wine (7% alc/vol), with wine, it has strong, spice flavours, gently slightly savoury notes syrah. Full-coloured, it abundant sweetness ripe cherry, plum and seasoned with oak, and adding complexity. Best is highly fragrant and (92 grams/litre residual spice flavours, a slightly supple tannins. Best drinking mid-2021+. full-bodied, with ripe, sugar), balanced by earthy streak, and very drinking 2022+. $30 Certified organic. $30 plummy, spicy flavours, appetising acidity. Pale good complexity. Best Lake Chalice Inviniti Marlborough hints of liquorice and lemon/green, with citrusy, drinking 2003+. $40 The Raptor Pinot Noir nutty oak, fresh acidity, appley flavours, showing Villa Maria Single Marlborough Pinot 2020 HHH1/2 and excellent complexity excellent delicacy and Vineyard Seddon Noir 2019 HHHH Enjoyable young, this and density. Still full of depth, and a long, very Marlborough Pinot Well worth cellaring, graceful red is bright youthful drive, it should harmonious finish, it’s Noir 2018 HHHH1/2 this vibrant red was ruby, mouthfilling and flourish for a decade. well worth cellaring to From the south bank grown mostly in the supple, with ripe cherry, Certified organic. $40 2022+. Certified organic. of the Awatere River, Eyrie Vineyard, in plum and spice flavours, Giesen Single $25 (750ml) (US) this still youthful, ruby the Waihopai Valley, showing some savoury Vineyard Selection hued, savoury red is and matured for 11 notes, and very good Clayvin Syrah medium-bodied, with months in French oak depth. (From Lawson’s 2019 HHHHH ripe cherry, plum and barriques. Bright ruby, Dry Hills.) $20 Who says you can’t spice flavours, seasoned it is mouthfilling, with Lake Chalice grow great syrah in with nutty oak, a slightly strong, fresh cherry, The Falcon Marlborough? This earthy streak adding plum and spice flavours, Marlborough Pinot very classy red is complexity, and ripe, well-integrated oak Noir 2019 HHH1/2 boldly coloured, with a supple tannins. Best adding complexity and a Still unfolding, this bright fragrant, spicy bouquet. drinking 2022+. $60 very harmonious finish. ruby, barrel-aged red Still very youthful, it Villa Maria Single $23 (UK) is mouthfilling, with has concentrated plum, Vineyard Taylors Vidal Reserve good depth of cherry, spice and black pepper Pass Marlborough Marlborough Pinot plum and spice flavours, flavours, seasoned with Pinot Noir Noir 2019 HHHH showing some savoury oak, a hint of liquorice, 2016 HHHH1/2 Well worth cellaring, complexity. Fine value. impressive complexity Estate-grown in the this Wairau Valley $19 (A) and a well-structured, upper Awatere Valley, wine was matured Villa Maria Private lasting finish. Best this deep ruby red is for a year in French Bin Marlborough drinking 2024+. Certified still fresh and fairly oak casks (10% new). Pinot Noir organic. $60 youthful. Mouthfilling Deeply coloured, it 2019 HHH1/2 Saint Clair and supple, it has deep, is mouthfilling, with Offering great value, this Rapaura Reserve vibrant, plummy, spicy, strong cherry, plum and bright ruby, attractively Marlborough Merlot slightly herbal flavours, spice flavours, finely scented red is softly 2019 HHHH lively acidity and very integrated oak adding mouthfilling, with ripe Still purple-flushed, this good complexity. Best complexity and ripe, cherry, plum and spice rich, youthful, single drinking 2022+. $60 supple tannins. Best flavours, showing some vineyard red was grown Delta Marlborough drinking mid-2022+. savoury complexity. at Rapaura. Full-bodied, Pinot Noir $25 Drink now-2023. $18 it has strong, plummy, 2019 HHHH Villa Maria gently spicy and nutty Bargain-priced, this Cellar Selection flavours, seasoned with single-vineyard, Marlborough Pinot sweet oak, a hint of Southern Valleys red Noir 2019 HHHH liquorice and ripe, supple was matured in an even This graceful, youthful tannins. Best drinking mix of tanks and French red was matured in 2022+. $70 oak barriques. Bright French oak barriques ruby, it is full-bodied, (15 per cent new). with fresh, ripe cherry, Attractively scented, it plum and spice flavours, is full-bodied and sweet- balanced acidity, supple fruited, with strong, tannins, and very good fresh cherry, plum and harmony and depth. Still spice flavours, showing very youthful, it should very good complexity, be at its best 2022+. and ripe, supple tannins. $20 (A, US) Best drinking 2022+. $25 March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 69

MICHAEL COOPER RECENT RELEASES This small, but very diverse, tasting attracted wines from Northland Renato Nelson Pinot ½ syrah to Central Otago rosé. Highlights include outstanding Noir 2019 HHHH1/2 examples of chardonnay, riesling and rosé, backed up by several Offering great value, Main Divide North impressive reds. this sturdy red was Canterbury Rosé hand-picked in Moutere 2020 HHH1/2 Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available clay soils and on the Still unfolding, this very in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Waimea Plains, and pale pink, crisp and lively matured for 11 months wine was made from a  Pegasus Bay Okahu Syrah in French oak barriques “unique assemblage of Waipara Valley 2013 HHHH1/2 (25% new). Deep varieties”. It has delicate Bald Hills Friends North Canterbury This distinctive, estate- ruby, it is full-bodied peach, strawberry and and Lovers Riesling grown Northland and sweet-fruited, spice flavours, with a Single Vineyard 2017 HHHHH red was barrel-aged, with rich, vibrant basically dry finish. Best Bannockburn From vines over 30 transferred to stainless cherry, plum and spice drinking mid-2021+. Central Otago Rosé years old, this is a steel tanks, and flavours, savoury notes $21 (A) 2020 HHHHH powerful, lush riesling. bottled recently. It has adding complexity, and Shipwreck Bay Flora Bright, light pink, this Bright, light yellow/ deep, still moderately good tannin support. 2020 HHH1/2 fresh, powerful rosé was green, with a gently youthful colour and a Still very youthful, it Estate-grown at Okahu made from hand-picked honeyed bouquet, it fragrant, spicy bouquet. should flourish with Estate, in Northland, pinot noir. Attractively is full-bodied, with Mouthfilling, with cellaring. $28 this freshly scented scented, it has concentrated, ripe concentrated, plummy, wine is from the flora substantial body, with stone-fruit flavours, spicy flavours, it is  variety (a rare crossing concentrated, vibrant enriched by botrytis, savoury and complex, of gewürztraminer and strawberry, watermelon gentle sweetness and with fresh acidity and Bald Hills 3 Acres semillon). Enjoyable and spice flavours, a hint good acid spine. $30 good tannin backbone. Bannockburn young, it is full-bodied, of apricot and a basically (A, UK) Drink now or cellar. $39 Central Otago Pinot with good depth of dry finish. $30 Renato Nelson Noir 2018 HHHH peachy, citrusy, spicy Pegasus Bay ½ Chardonnay Already enjoyable, this flavours, balanced Waipara Valley 2019 HHHH1/2 ruby hued, fragrant red acidity and a slightly off- North Canterbury Okahu Chambourcin This powerful wine was was matured for a year dry finish. $25 Chardonnay 2013 HHHH1/2 grown in Moutere clay in French oak barriques 2018 HHHHH This deeply coloured soils, hand-harvested (27% new). Showing  This powerful, youthful red was estate- and fermented in French excellent complexity, wine was hand-picked grown at Okahu oak barriques (20% it is savoury and nutty, Shipwreck Bay and fermented with Estate, in Northland, new). Pale straw, it is with fresh acidity, finely Syrah 2015 HHH indigenous yeasts in matured for a year in fragrant, weighty and balanced tannins and This very approachable, French oak puncheons American and French fleshy, with strong, ripe very good flavour depth. medium-bodied red was (30% new). Bright, light oak barrels, stored stone-fruit flavours, $32 estate-grown at Okahu yellow/green, it has at length in stainless toasty oak adding Main Divide Estate, in Northland, and a rich, slightly smoky steel tanks, then complexity, a hint of North Canterbury French and American bouquet. Weighty, bottled recently. Still butterscotch, balanced Sauvignon Blanc oak-aged. Lightish in it has concentrated moderately youthful, acidity and a slightly 2020 HHHH colour, it is fresh and stone-fruit flavours, it is sturdy, with the creamy texture. Best This punchy wine is distinctly spicy, with finely integrated oak, distinctive, spicy, drinking 2022+. $26 still very youthful and finely balanced tannins and excellent complexity slightly rustic bouquet lively, in a medium and some savoury and length. Best drinking of chambourcin. to full-bodied style complexity. $25 2022+. $44 (A, UK) Full of personality, with good intensity it has strong, lively, of fresh passionfruit/ berryish, spicy flavours, lime flavours, crisp and showing considerable dry. Best drinking mid- complexity, and a fairly 2021+. $21 (A, UK) firm finish. $35 70 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND March/April 2021 Issue 171 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 In this issue... New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

NEW RELEASES 147 TASTED 100 AWARDED NEW RELEASES It is always a pleasure to look at the latest new release wines. Saint Clair Pioneer Gomersal Wines Each time we confirm again the great quality and often great value Block 29 Blind Premium Clare that these wines deliver. For this tasting shiraz again shows that it Block Marlborough Valley Riesling is the most dependable varietal with few failures. If you are in a Albarino 2020 HHH 2020 HHHH restaurant and don't know any of the wines on the wine list pick A crisp minerally mix Delicate citrus blossom- a shiraz. You will rarely be disappointed. Also of note this time of apples and pears. like aromas with flavours are the delicious grenache wines and alternative reds which if they “Perfect with shellfish of brown limes and keep performing like this may no longer be called alternative. on a hot day!” $28.90 lemon curd. Has great acid. $20 SPARKLING OTHER WHITE George's Folly Off Whicher Ridge VARIETALS & With The Fairies Mademoiselle V Reillys Barking Mad 3 TASTED BLENDS Fleurieu Roussanne Margaret River Watervale Clare 3 AWARDED 2018 HHHH Viognier 2019 HHH Valley Riesling 11 TASTED Rich toasty/honeyed A developed oaky 2020 HHH A small, but nice, group 5 AWARDED nose. Nicely evolving style but also has a big Nose has hints of citrus of well-made sparklings ripe stonefruit and citrus fruit impact. “Quite a blossom over lime with that are worth buying! A mixed group, both flavours with phenolics mouthful!” $38 a tight citrus driven in the varieties and the providing length. $24.99 palate. $20 Bream Creek results. “These showed Rusty Mutt Catnip RIESLING Vineyard Tasmania white wine basics but McLaren Vale Taylors Estate Clare Brut Rosé NV HHHH with some wandering Viognier 8 TASTED Valley Riesling Floral and spicy on the away from the structure 2020 HHH1/2 5 AWARDED 2020 HHH nose with a smooth and acid line required A bright, attractive and An attractive mix of creamy palate, lovely therefore tending to well-made wine with a A solid class with the citrus/lemon fruit length of soft red fruit broadness,” noted one nice blend of florals, fruit pretty 2020s showing characters and steely flavours and yeasty judge. and crisp acidity. $30 more life and good acid acidity. $20 complexity. $36 structure. Barristers Block Reillys Watervale Gartelmann Wines Aston McLaren Vale Clarence Hill Clare Valley Riesling Hunter Valley Blanc Fiano 2020 HHHH Adelaide Riesling 2020 HHH de Blancs 2020 HHH Attractive floral fruit 2020 HHHH Citrus nose with some Attractive fruit driven fragrances with crisp Floral bouquet with spices and herbal notes. style – very citrusy with acid providing a lively a hint of lychees and Almost traminer-like bright florals and crisp structure for great lifted a full flavoured jubey palate. $27 acidity. $38 fruit characters. $30 fruit palate with mouth- watering acidity. $18 SAUVIGNON Gooree Park BLANC Mudgee Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot 11 TASTED Noir 2019 HHH 6 AWARDED Simple melon-like aromas with a bright “There is a clear citrus and melon flavour difference between profile. $30 the Kiwis and the Aussies here with the full flavoured mouth- watering acid lines a feature of the New Zealand wines,” said one judge. 72 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Saint Clair Pioneer PINOT GRIS/ Mt Bera Vineyards Whicher Ridge Henry Yealands Reserve Block 1 Foundation GRIGIO Dreamcatcher Road Margaret River Marlborough Rosé Marlborough Adelaide Hills Pinot Chardonnay 2020 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc 7 TASTED Gris 2020 HHH 2019 HHHH Full rich and warming 2020 HHHHH 5 AWARDED Tropical/floral nose and Nice lifted melon-like with dusty red fruit/ Aromas of lemons, A solid class of a slightly grippy lemon/ fruit characters on show tropical characters and limes and passionfruit consumer-friendly wines citrus driven palate. $25 here with just a “thin rose-petal nuances. $NA with a restrained version with balanced vibrant Gartelmann veil” of oak and hints of carrying through to the fruit and acid flavours. Wines Stephanie cashews. $38 Shingleback long juicy palate with its “Ones to enjoy on a Limestone Coast Haycutters Salmon mouth-watering acidity. warm day,” said one Pinot Gris Criminal Minds McLaren Vale $28.90 judge. 2020 HHH South Australia Adelaide Hills Rosé Saint Clair Origin Apricot characters on Chardonnay 2020 HHH Marlborough Yealands the nose with a mouth- 2020 HHH Rich compote of red Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Pinot watering palate. Great Subtle lemon/green fruit fragrances with 2020 HHHH1/2 Gris 2020 HHHH1/2 for hot days! $30 apple aromas with floral strawberry Pungent aromas of Zesty lime fragrances simple and delicate flavours. $18 asparagus and canned edged with floral-like CHARDONNAY varietal flavours. $18 peas and a generous, characters and a lively, PINOT NOIR & full flavoured, tropical nicely rounded, citrus 9 TASTED ROSÉ BLENDS palate with racy acidity flavoured palate with 3 AWARDED to balance it. $19.90 just a hint of nectarines. Very mixed results 5 TASTED 8 TASTED Saint Clair Pioneer $15.95 NZ here. “Some excellent 3 AWARDED 4 AWARDED Block 11 Cell Babydoll wines showing good Block Marlborough Marlborough Pinot depth of flavour and “Three good examples A mix of dry reds and Sauvignon Blanc Gris 2020 HHH1/2 complexity whilst there showing diversity of those that offered 2020 HHHH A pleasant balance of were others that were styles from the lean the desirable varietal Lifted pungent varietal citrus and apple-like fruit hollow and watery,” savoury food wines characters, vibrancy bouquet with generous, characters. Good flavour commented one judge. to upfront berry fruit and complexity. There balanced and complex intensity. $17.95 NZ “Artefact here, which examples,” said one were some that showed flavours. “Ticks all the Taylors Estate Clare is highlighted, can be judge. winemaking faults which boxes!” $28.90 Valley Pinot Gris good, but can also be you cannot hide in this Ekhidna Sauvignon 2020 HHH1/2 overdone,” said another. Seabrook Wines variety. Blanc 2020 HHH Tight, bright and crisp Lineage Mataro Nose of passionfruit with plenty of citrus Centennial Barossa Valley Rosé Saint Clair Pioneer and honey with simple fruit characters showing Vineyards Reserve 2020 HHHH Block 4 Sawcut melon flavours and delicate floral notes. Single Vineyard Subtle floral notes to the Marlborough Pinot tropical notes. $NA $20 Chardonnay sweet strawberry nose Noir 2019 HHHH Third Estate Wines 2019 HHHH with simple red fruit A classic nose of spicy Australia Sauvignon Aromas of hazelnuts, flavours, savoury notes cherries with forest floor Blanc 2020 HHH marzipan and melons. and good acidity. $22 notes and a mouthful Candied fruit nose and Lovely line of pure of earthy black fruit some attractive varietal varietal fruit flavours and flavours with firm flavours with an herbal classy oak. $39 tannins. $34.90 nuance. $15 Allegiance Wines Taylors Estate Fullylove Adelaide Adelaide Hills Pinot Hills Sauvignon Noir 2019 HHH Blanc 2020 HHH Subtle raspberry nose Long and steely with with a floral lift and citrus fruit on the nose delicate sour cherry and palate and herbal palate. $20 notes. $25 Woodgate The Black George Single Vineyard Pemberton Pinot Noir 2019 HHH Lifted varietal fruit supported by toasty oak and tight acidity. $48 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 73

NEW RELEASES Mt Bera Vineyards Buller Wines Tobin Wines Ekhidna McLaren Brand & Sons Single Amphitheatre Balladeer Rutherglen Jacob Granite Vale Grenache Barrel Coonawarra Adelaide Hills Pinot Durif 2019 HHHH Belt Queensland 2017 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Noir Zweigelt Inky purple wine with Tempranillo Subtle varietal fruit 2018 HHHHH 2018 HHH lots of dark liquorice and 2019 HHH characters with lots of Vibrant purple wine with Shy cherry and chocolate characters, An uncomplicated acid ensuring a long a big, lifted cassis fruit blackberry aromas with toasty oak and big juicy wine with black cherry, life. $NA nose and lovely layers a red fruit palate and tannins. $29 spice and herbal of dark berry flavours silky tannins. $30 characters. $64 MERLOT & with fine tannins and George's Folly BLENDS a perfect oak/acid OTHER RED Unguarded Moment GRENACHE & balance. $85 VARIETALS & Fleurieu Nero BLENDS 6 TASTED BLENDS D'Avola 2019 HHH 4 AWARDED Nightfall Draco Ripe plum and cherry 8 TASTED Coonawarra 7 TASTED fruit, sweet spices and 6 AWARDED Some good examples Cabernet Sauvignon 6 AWARDED racy acidity. “Clean as a here of very drinkable 2018 HHHHH whistle!” $29.99 Very solid group with wines offering lovely Nose has bright floral Excellent class of some highlights. “A fruit presence. characters sitting on top genuine varietal wines. Totino Adelaide Hills range of styles with of plum and blackberry Lots of diversity here Sangiovese the best allowing the Taylors Estate Clare fruit aromas. Beautifully and the winemakers 2018 HHH fruit to shine through,” Valley Merlot balanced sweet fruit are understanding Plums and blackberries commented one judge. 2020 HHHH palate with lingering the varieties. “They on the nose and red A very good plump fruit tannins. $125 don’t have to be fruits and vanilla oak in Taylors Jaraman driven style with light big, concentrated the mouth. $26 McLaren Vale blue fruit characters, Brothers In Arms monsters,” noted one Grenache hints of herbs and Just 'Cos judge. TEMPRANILLO 2020 HHHHH crunchy acidity. $20 Langhorne VBBAEULSYUTSE A gorgeous big rich Taylors Taylor Made 8 TASTED varietal layered with Woodgate Creek Cabernet Clare Valley Malbec 4 AWARDED fresh bright raspberry Pemberton Merlot Sauvignon 2019 HHHHH and strawberry fruits 2019 HHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 A dark and inky Some great wines here with a perfumed lift and A smooth and delicate Still very youthful with wine with power and some not so great! hints of cola and long mix of cherry cola, good varietal characters and persistence and The best here sing, silky-smooth tannins. $37 plums and liquorice with of cassis, olives and smelling of liquorice “Ole!”. “The ‘winners’ a tart line of acid. $28 earthiness. The palate and blackberries. The had the best-balanced Gumpara Wines has a mineral edge crisp and grippy palate tannin structure,” said Picnic Block Barossa Gartelmann Wines with layers of graphite is loaded with ripe plum one judge. Valley Grenache Joey Mudgee Merlot tannins. $19 flavours. $25 2020 HHHH1/2 2017 HHH BVWC Gravel Track Big, sweet wine bright Attractive nicely Taylors Estate Clare Thomson Estate Barossa Tempranillo with red fruits, liquorice balanced wine of herbal Valley Limestone Clare Valley 2018 HHHHH and spices and layered fruit and chocolate. Coast Cabernet Sangiovese Dark purple wine with with fine earthy tannins. Drinking well now. $30 Sauvignon 2019 HHHH1/2 aromas and flavours “Yum,” was one judge’s 2019 HHHH Fragrant floral bouquet reminiscent of chocolate simple comment. $32 Reillys RCV Fruit driven style; lots of with a pot pourri- coated blueberries 'Moonvine' Clare black cherries and dark like element and a seamlessly integrated Sew & Sew Sashiko Valley Merlot plum characters with full flavoured, well with the oak and McLaren Vale G.S.M. Cabernet 2017 HHH oak in the background. balanced, savoury plum tannins. $25 2020 HHH Integrated layers of Needs time. $20 driven palate and firm Aromas of sweet earthy black fruits and tannins. $28 Mr Riggs Yacca cherries, flavours of chocolaty characters. Watkins Core Paddock Adelaide boiled fruit cake and soft Loads of tannins. $50 Langhorne Creek Woodgate The Black Hills Tempranillo tannins. $25 Cabernet Sauvignon George Single 2019 HHHH1/2 CABERNET 2019 HHHH Vineyard Pemberton Deep purple hues with Haselgrove Vine SAUVIGNON & Nicely focussed tight Cabernet Franc great length of generous Sean McLaren Vale BLENDS wine with fruit in the 2019 HHHH1/2 and vibrant cherry Grenache 2019 HHH riper spectrum and good Aromas like a leafy cola and liquorice fruit A sweet gingerbread of a 22 TASTED earthy characters. Cellar forest floor layered characters with masses nose with flavours in the 17 AWARDED it! $20 with black fruits. Lovely of beautiful tannins. $30 ripe fig spectrum. $30 leafy briary palate with An excellent class supporting oak and the Woodgate Manjimup Mr Riggs The with the 19s and 18s tannins a hallmark. $55 Tempranillo Shiraz Magnet McLaren a highlight. The 17s 2019 HHH Vale Grenache struggled with the Sweet and spicy varietal 2019 HHH cooler vintage affecting fruit nicely supported by Oak driven style flavour ripeness. Overall the tannins and oak. $30 with savoury earthy a very consistent line-up. characters and hints of cloves. $30 74 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Ponting Wines Close Watkins Adelaide Glendale Padthaway Woodgate Gooree Park Of Play Langhorne Hills Cabernet Coonawarra Pemberton Shiraz Mudgee Shiraz Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2016 HHHH 2018 HHH 2019 HHHHH Blackberry jam 2019 HHHH A huge wine! Great Big vanillin oak nose A cooler climate blend characters with slight Blackberry bouquet length and concentration and long, full flavoured, with aromas of red berry smoky notes, “playful with Ribena notes. of dark ripe fruits with palate with dense fruit and savoury oak tannins” and peppery Good length and chocolaty elements and tannins. $20 that carries over well to finish. $24 definition of sweet fruit enormous tannins. $50 the silky-smooth palate Taylors Jaraman flavours. Another for Bunkers Wines Maygars Hill with floral and spicy Clare Valley the cellar. $25 Margaret River Strathbogie Ranges hints. $30 McLaren Vale Shiraz Taylors Masterstroke Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Taylors Estate 2019 HHH1/2 Coonawarra 2018 HHH1/2 2018 HHH Limestone Coast Choc-mint and berry Cabernet Sauvignon Generous black An attractive amalgam Clare Valley Shiraz bouquet. Great 2019 HHHH cherry and herbal leaf of red and black berry 2019 HHHH1/2 concentration of dark Rich and inky with characters with hints of fruit, toasty oak and mint Pretty floral lift to the fruit and liquorice pretty, floral fragrances violets and oak. $20 notes. $30 black cherry nose with a flavours. $32 and herbal red fruit Taylors long bright palate full of Third Estate Wines flavours. “Oak nowhere Masterstroke Clare Taylors Jaraman soft plum flavours and Australia Shiraz to be seen!” $50 Valley Cabernet Clare Valley showing a firm tannin 2020 HHH Seabrook Wines Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 Coonawarra backbone. $20 Very young early release Lineage Barossa Big rich and mature Cabernet Sauvignon Sidney Wilcox wine bright with juicy Valley Cabernet Aussie style with dense 2018 HHH Vine Dried South green edged blackberry Malbec 2018 HHHH choc-mint elements and Spicy black fruit Australia Shiraz fruit. $15 Dark savoury and huge tannins. $50 aromas. Good 2019 HHHH1/2 Mr Riggs Three ripe with seamless Mr Riggs Outpost concentration of sweet Vibrant purple wine Corner Jack integration of sweet Coonawarra ripe fruit flavours. $32 beautifully layered with McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit, fig and olive Cabernet 2019 HHH thick rich and juicy Cabernet Merlot characters and ripe Beautiful blueberry SHIRAZ & fruit, plush tannins 2019 HHH tannins. $22 varietal fruit with BLENDS and dark graphite Earthy beetroot-like impeccable balance of 2020/2019 characters. “Lots going aromas and dark berry tannins and acid. $25 on here.” $25 flavours with soft Haselgrove 15 TASTED McLaren Vale III tannins. $17 Protector McLaren 13 AWARDED Associates Squid Aussimento Double Vale Cabernet Ink Reserve Estate Pass South Australia Sauvignon A very consistent class Grown Single Shiraz 2019 HHH 2019 HHH of solid flavoursome Vineyard McLaren Lifted perfumed fruit Jubey blackberry wines. “These are juicy Vale Shiraz bouquet and juicy sweet bouquet and wines ranging from 2019 HHHH1/2 fruit palate with a nutty straightforward oak mid to heavy weights Attractive juicy sweet finish. $20 driven palate. $40 which should please varietal fruit characters Mount Avoca Tobin Wines Luella everyone,” said one with a spicy edge and Moates Lane Plum Granite judge. “Shiraz tends layered with loads Victoria Shiraz Belt Queensland to be a safe bet in the of oak. Seamlessly 2019 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon restaurant.” balanced and creamy in Tart blackberry-like 2019 HHH the mouth. $65 varietal fruit, some Very attractive varietal Watkins Core spiciness and savoury fruit with oak tannins Langhorne Creek toasty oak. $21.25 providing focus. $64 Shiraz 2019 HHHH Lifted black fruit aromas with just a whiff of oak and simple primary fruit flavours with oak providing complexity. $20 JUDGES Andrew Locke Dave Matthews Thomas Darmody Winemaker with Formerly Winemaker Assistant winemaker at Rosemount Wines since at Rosemount and Taylors Wines. Has a 1998. Previously he was a Group Winemaker for Bachelor of Viticulture & winemaker with Orlando Treasury Wine estates. Oenology from the University Wyndham and De Bortoli Vintages in Tuscany and of Adelaide. Previously Wines. He has completed California. Judged in a cellar door assistant at vintages in the US and Australia and overseas. Elderton Wines and Wolf Loire (France). In 1993 Currently with Francois Blass. Previously a product he attended the AWRI Freres cooperages and expert at Dan Murphys. advanced assessment owner winemaker of Committee member of Clare course. Gargoyle Wines. Valley wine show. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 75

NEW RELEASES Glendale Calcannia Super Coonawarra Vine Dried South Wrattonbully Shiraz Australia Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 2018 HHH Rich purple hues, lifted Seamlessly integrated ripe cherry bouquet, a earthy red fruits and pure varietal palate and sweet oak. Good crunchy acid. $20 intensity. $40 Seabrook Wines Seabrook Wines The Lineage Langhorne Merchant Barossa Creek Shiraz Valley Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 2018 HHH Bright lifted spicy plum An intense spicy berry aromas with a rich compote on the nose intensity of juicy raspberry and palate with fine fruit flavours. $22 tannins. $40 Mount Avoca The Reillys RCV Ponting Wines The Enthusiast Artist Victoria 'Moonvine' Barossa The Pinnacle Symphonious Shiraz 2019 HHH Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Clare Valley Shiraz Soft blackcurrant fruit 2018 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2018 HHH Mourvedre Grenache well integrated with Big rich and nicely Rose red wine with 2017 HHH some attractive oak. evolved wine with great a beefy/minty nose, Interesting slightly Very flavoursome. $25 length and focus. Lovely savoury palate and leathery/cola nose and ripe varietal fruit, toasty grippy tannins. $25 light fruit presence on Woodgate The Black oak and lingering chewy Totino Adelaide Hills the palate. $20 George Single tannins. $40 Shiraz 2018 HHH Vineyard Pemberton Antiquarian Savoury choc berry Gartelmann Wines Shiraz 2019 HHH Barossa Shiraz bouquet and rich and Wilhelm Hunter Spicy fruit compote 2018 HHHH1/2 spicy fruit flavours. Lots Valley Shiraz nose, lifted rhubarb/ Deep red wine with of acid. $26 2017 HHH berry flavours and lots of lovely purple highlights. Mt Bera Vineyards Well balanced, still oak. $55 Nose has a lovely Amphitheatre bright and showing sweet floral lift and Adelaide Hills Shiraz simple cherry fruit and SHIRAZ & the long fresh palate is Blaufrankisch attractive oak. $28 BLENDS bright with berry fruit 2018 HHH 2018 & OLDER flavours. $59 Lovely lifted floral blue Watkins Adelaide Reillys Barking Mad fruit characters with a Hills Shiraz 19 TASTED Clare Valley Shiraz vibrant acid backbone. $30 2016 HHH 16 AWARDED 2018 HHHH “Very much an A fresh lively shiraz Aussie style.” Great Another consistent with plums and violets concentration and very class of rich generous on the nose. Fleshy flavoursome. $50 and beautifully layered in the mouth with wines. “A few were generous fruit/oak Reillys 'Old Vine' a little overripe and flavours. $20 Stolen Block Clare stewed but those from Taylors Taylor Made Valley Shiraz the excellent 2018 Clare Valley Shiraz 2016 HHH vintage will come 2018 HHHH A huge wine – ageing back with some age Plum pudding of a nose beautifully with great giving more savoury with a spicy lift and a fruit and good oak. $65 characters,” said one rich berry/chocolate judge. “Shiraz gives palate supported by oak STAR RATINGS  value for money.” and tannins. $25 Maygars Hill Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Strathbogie Ranges excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Shiraz 2018 HHHH All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry A big wine with professionals and are compared in peer liquorice, rhubarb and classes by three judges. slight menthol aromas CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, and a thick black fruit/ a major mail-order business. sweet oak palate. $30 CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 80. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). 76 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Buller Wines RLB Victoria Leefield Station Waihopai Dominic Wines Black Hunter's Marlborough Chardonnay 2020 Valley Marlborough Label Langhorne Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Nice lift to the toasty citrus Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay 2020 Estate-grown in the Wairau Valley, nose with a medium bodied, A floral and spicy elegance to More of an old school oak this fresh, crisp, dry wine was oak driven, palate. $17 the nose with flavoursome driven style with hints of pear partly (10%) fermented in large citrus driven fruit flavours, and peach fruit characters. French oak barrels. Medium to Buller Wines a hint of oak and malo $17.99 full-bodied, it has good depth of Phone: 0407 916 188 creaminess. $19.99 ripely herbaceous, passionfruit/ Email: [email protected] Dominic Wines lime flavours that linger well. Web: www.bullerwines.com.au Marisco Vineyards Phone: 08 8582 5524 Best drinking mid-2021+. $20 (A, Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Email: [email protected] UK, US) Email: [email protected] Web: www.dominicwines.com Web: www.marisco.co.nz Hunter’s Wines (NZ) Ltd Phone: +64 3 572 8489 Email: [email protected] Web: www.hunters.co.nz BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND $U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 77

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Visit our website and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, news, competitions, tastings and events. Become a subscriber to enter into our exciting regular competitions. Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. Winestate Magazine @WinestateEd Kooyonga Creek North Brothers In Arms Just East Victoria Shiraz 2013 'Cos Langhorne Creek Beautifully aged wine with Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 attractive oak and slightly Still very youthful with good raisined fruit characters. $19.95 varietal characters of cassis, olives and earthiness. The Kooyonga Creek Wines palate has a mineral edge with Phone: 0413 848 803 layers of graphite tannins. $19 Email: [email protected] Web: www.kooyonga.com.au Brothers In Arms Phone: 08 8537 3182 Email: [email protected] Web: www.brothersinarms.com.au www.winestate.com.au the wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 171 | March/April 2021 Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care is Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but Managing Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E-mail: [email protected] Graphic Designer WINESTATE is published six times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. Naomi Fry E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Marketing & Sales 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2021 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] Debra Silver E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, Website www.winestate.com.au Tasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any E-mail: [email protected] 78 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

ADELAIDE on the scene KORKED LOUNGE BAR ‘Running on cool climate Syrah’ 3 DIVETT STREET, PORT ADELAIDE SA 2396 State Highway 50 ~ RD5 ~ Hastings 4175 Ph: 0413 044 056 Hawke’s Bay ~ New Zealand. Elegant Sensuous Intimate Phone: 06 879 7778 ~ Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] www.trinityhill.com Phone: +64 3 4485059 or +64 274279108 Cellar Door Wine Tasting in the heart of the Gimblett Gravels, Address: 36 Hillview road, Alexandra, New Zealand everyone welcome. Open 7 days Website: www.judgerock.co.nz Sidewood Restaurant & Cellar Door Phone: +61 8 8388 1157 Email: [email protected] Web: www.sidewood.com.au Set amongst a stunning mix of eucalyptus, landscaped gardens and lawns, the Sidewood Restaurant & Cellar Door is only a 25 minute drive from Adelaide’s CBD. Sidewood’s wines can be enjoyed with wood-fired pizza in the gardens, sampled with bar snacks in the tasting room or paired with the al la carte restaurant menu. Restaurant & Cellar Door: Open 6 days. Closed Tuesdays. • Street address: 6 River Road, Hahndorf SA 5245 Winesave INNER CITY WINEMAKERS Phone: 03 9028 2763 Email: [email protected] Phone: (02) 4962 3545 Website: www.winesave.com Mobile: 0413 655 441 Address: 28 Church Street, Premium wine preservation Wickham, NSW 2293 and accessories. www.innercitywinemakers.com.au Let us take you away from the everyday to enjoy your private touring experience in the Yarra Valley, with Chauffeurdrive Yarra Valley, Melbourne. Experience fine wine, champagne, cheese, chocolate, food and wine dining experiences, matched cheese and wine, smoked cheese, olives, gourmet food hampers, seasonal local produce only found in the Yarra Valley, tastings all for that special someone or group tasting experience with Chauffeurdrive Yarra Valley, Melbourne. Private Wine Tour Experiences Yarra Valley Ph: 1300 481 188 www.chauffeurdrive.com.au Smith & Sheth Oenothèque The Smith & Sheth Oenothèque has something for all ~ Cellar Door, Wine Lounge, Wine Studio wine lovers. Come in for a tasting of our exceptional CRU wines or peruse our Wine Lounge menu in the www.smithandsheth.com ~ [email protected] evenings offering wines from around New Zealand and #2 The Courtyard, Village Exchange, the world. Check out our Heretaunga Wine Studio for 4 Te Aute Road, Havelock North an exclusive tasting experience! For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee. ph: 0417 451 102 email: [email protected] www.charnwoodestate.com.au We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 79

contact details BAROSSA AND EDEN VALLEY Marisco Vineyards Lawson’s Dry Hills NZ WINES OF VICTORIA Barossa Boy Wines (6th Gen Wines) Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Phone: +64 3 578 7674 Buller Wines Phone: 08 8565 7550 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 0407 916 188 Email: hello@barossaboywines. Web: www.marisco.co.nz Web: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz Email: davewhyte@bullerwines. com.au CHARDONNAY Loveblock Vintners Ltd (NZ) com.au Web: www.barossaboywines.com.au Phone: +64 9 365 1471 Web: www.bullerwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Gapsted Wines Corryton Burge (Burge Family Wine Marisco Vineyards Web: www.loveblockwine.com Phone: 03 5751 9100 Estates) Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8563 7575 Email: [email protected] NEW RELEASE Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.marisco.co.nz Web: www.corrytonburge.com Peccavi Wines Centennial Vineyards Glenwillow Wines Gumpara Wines Phone: 0409 544 630 Phone: 02 4861 8700 Phone: 0428 461 076 Phone: 0419 624 559 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.peccavi-wines.com Web: www.centennial.net.au Web: www.glenwillow.com.au Web: www.gumparawines.net.au Plantagenet Wines Hemera Estate Phone: 08 9851 3131 George’s Folly Hirsch Hill Estate Phone: 08 8524 4033 Email: sales@plantagenetwines. Phone: 0423 026 972 Phone: 1300 877 781 Email: [email protected] com Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.hemeraestate.com.au Web: www.plantagenetwines.com Web: www.georgesfolly.com.au Web: www.hirschhill.com BEST VALUE BUYS Singlefile Wines Pty Ltd Mount Avoca Kimbarra Wines Brothers In Arms Phone: 0409 108 166 Phone: 03 5465 3282 Phone: 03 5352 2238 Phone: 08 8537 3182 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.singlefilewines.com Web: www.mountavoca.com Web: www.kimbarrawines.com.au Web: www.brothersinarms.com.au Trinity Hill NZ Buller Wines Phone: +64 6 879 7778 Reillys Wines Wine by Sam Phone: 0407 916 188 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8843 9013 Phone: 0408 587 702 Email: davewhyte@bullerwines. Web: www.trinityhill.com Email: cellardoor@reillyswines. Email: [email protected] com.au Yarra Yering com.au Web: www.winebysam.com.au Web: www.bullerwines.com.au Phone: 03 5964 9267 Web: www.reillyswines.com.au Dominic Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8582 5524 Web: www.yarrayering.com Three Kings Wine Merchants Email: [email protected] Phone: 0401 060 574 Web: www.dominicwines.com MARLBOROUGH Email: david@ Hunter’s Wines (NZ) Ltd Fromm Winery NZ threekingswinemerchants.com.au Phone: +64 3 572 8489 Phone: +64 3 572 9355 Web: www. Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] threekingswinemerchants.com.au Web: www.hunters.co.nz Web: www.frommwineries.com Kooyonga Creek Wines Haha Wine Company Ltd NZ Whicher Ridge Wines/Odyssey Phone: 0413 848 803 Phone: +64 6 833 7814 Creek Estate Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 9753 1394 Web: www.kooyonga.com.au Web: www.hahawine.co.nz Email: [email protected] Web: www.whicherridge.com.au Yealands Estate Wines Ltd NZ Phone: +64 3 575 7618 Email: [email protected] Web: www.yealands.co.nz Visit our website and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, news, competitions, tastings and events. Become a subscriber to enter into our exciting regular competitions to celebrate our 40 year anniversary! www.winestate.com.au 80 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

aftertaste ELISABETH KING TAKING COMFORT - NOSTALGIA IS ONE OF THE MAJOR FOOD AND BEVERAGE TRENDS OF THE YEAR THE Double Deuce Lounge in Sydney’s market is males between the ages of 40 more in vogue this year, along with hard CBD is named after the roadside bar in the and 60 whose first Stubbie would have kombuchas and seltzers, boozy coffee, 1989 Patrick Swayze movie, Road House. been quaffed in the 70s or 80s. Or as the natural and lower calorie wines, draught Describing itself as a cocktail bar inspired brand’s press release puts it - “It comes in and craft beers. by 70s porn chic, the drinks list is full of natty an easy-to-grab stubbie bottle, designed twists on old classics like the Cosmopolitan. as a nod to days gone by when having a An interesting service prediction from I ordered the BabyCham. Not the famous yarn with a coldie over the back fence was Kimpton’s centres on the sommelier, which “champagne perry” that was the first fair dinkum at the end of a long hot day”. A its experts say will be someone who is alcoholic drink ordered by generations of siren call to city dwellers nationwide, many master of more than just wine. Going young women in the UK from the 1950s of whom don’t really know their neighbours forward, a “drinks sommelier” will be an through its peak in 1970s and revivals in anymore. expert who guides diners through the the 1990s and 2010s. But a sophisticated nuances of premium rum, whisky, tequila, modern take containing calvados, clarified Flavorman, the influential US beverage beers, wines and cocktails. corella pear, manzanilla sherry, cold brew development consultant, also believes sencha, leatherwood honey syrup and that functional flavours that comfort will Despite stocking a range of rosé wines more, batched and force carbonated and be one of the top drink trends of 2021. from Australia, France, Spain and Italy, served in a champagne flute. Refreshing flavours such as grapefruit, my local Aldi recently had a promo for lemon and lime, which have popped up en- the granddaddy of them all - Mateus The original ‘Babycham’, which still sells masse in beers and seltzers will continue Rosé - which is also on the shelves at millions of bottles each year, changed to be popular. Kristen Werner, director of Dan Murphy’s, Liquorland, Vintage Cellars British drinking habits and gamely warded beverage development for Flavorman, and more. I bought a bottle of the iconic off a court challenge from Bollinger for confirms that this year will see a return to Portuguese wine famous for its flask- using champagne in its title. The nostalgic classic favourites but with an unexpected, shaped bottle and it lived up to Elton John’s appeal of “the happiest drink in the world” more sophisticated edge. “When you think 70’s hit song, Social Disease - “I get juiced is so potent that the BabyCham is one of of childhood flavours re-imagined for on Mateus and just hang loose”. the most talked-about cocktails in Sydney premium applications you get something during a global pandemic. like smoky vanilla cold brew, bubble gum Forbes, the global media company, also seltzer or a fruit punch gin”. Frankie’s Pizza, recently put the spotlight on the “return” According to US beverage development the Sydney CBD institution, is riding the of lambrusco. Americans and Australians company, Imbibe, drinks and food which wave with an expanded beer list which took to the Italian wine in droves during stir up memories of yesteryear are one includes wasabi porter, a blood orange the 1960s and 70s - sweet, sparkling of the five big beverage trends for 2021. gose from California’s Anderson Valley and cheap. But the august publication Stress is at an all-time high and consumers Brewing Company and Moon Dog’s Dream pointed out that sommeliers in upmarket are seeking out products that will instill Cake Coconut Cake Imperial Dark Ale. restaurants and wine writers are hailing a sense of comfort reminiscent of youth, lambrusco as today’s hot trend. There’s says Imbibe. But adds that disruption The seventh annual Culinary & Cocktail plenty on sale in Australia and the quality- from the pandemic also creates a need Trend Forecast 2021 from Kimpton oriented producers of Emilia-Romagna for excitement, so nostalgia will appear in Hotels & Restaurants, which operates 75 are well-represented among the value a new form such as familiar product types properties in the US, Europe and Asia, bottlings. I bought a bottle of Labrusca with nostalgic flavours. That’s what Gelato reveals that comfort food led the rankings Rosso Lini 910 Lambrusco from Langton’s Messina discovered when it came up with its when it analysed its room service orders for $25 and experienced what the renewed fabulous Iced Vovo Gelato, a collaboration worldwide. Salads experienced a sharp interest is all about. With blackberry and with upmarket eatery Firedoor last June, decline as burgers, pizza and pasta raspberry flavours, the sparkler retained a which was re-released as a limited edition rose to the top. Kimpton also predicts hint of sweetness. Made from 85 per cent for Australia Day. increased popularity for “happy hours” Lambrusco Salamino grapes and 15 per in hotels, bars and pubs as consumers cent Ancelotta, it went very well with a roast It’s also the reasoning behind the become more budget minded. As far as rack of lamb and asparagus. recently released retro beer called Stubbie wine was concerned, Kimpton’s riesling Refreshing Beer from Pinnacle Drinks, a and sparkling wines saw the biggest 4.4% ABV Kolsch brewed by Gage Roads beverage growth in its hotels and predicts Brewing Co in WA. The tagline is - Just Like that fresher, healthier cocktails will be even Your Dad’s Beer - Only Better. The target March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 81

aftertaste SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE CONTINUED... which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full Instagram has propelled traditional on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. favourites back onto the radar from Aperol Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au Spritz through Campari and soda, the Negroni, Harvey Wallbanger and Pimm’s. Long Island Iced Tea has made a strong comeback in the US because of its Insta- worthiness, with the 388-strong TGI Fridays chain selling over two million glasses a year in 2020. Like the TV show Friends, 90s heyday concoctions like the Fuzzy Navel, White Russian and Appletini are also enjoying a renaissance. I have never been much of a beer drinker beyond tasting, but because of my German heritage my first alcoholic drink was a radler - the Teutonic equivalent of the British shandy, only better. Radler means cyclist in German and the drink dates back to the 1920s when Munich innkeeper Franz Kugler started mixing lager with lemon- flavoured soda to quench the thirst of keen riders. The legend may or may not be true, but Stiegl’s Grapefruit Radler from Austria is an icon of the style. Craft brewers in the US, Australia and Canada have revived interest in radlers in the Anglosphere because of their easy- drinking, thirst-quenching appeal. I can’t head for Germany for a while yet, but a sip of Pacific Beverages Radler - a zesty mix of Aussie lager and natural lemon juice with a 2% ABV - takes me back to my first sip in a restaurant with an outdoor terrace on Lake Constance - a.k.a the German Riviera. GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au next issue: As we head into the start of the cooler months in Australia and New Zealand, we bring you the fantastic regional tastings of Best of the West, Wines of NSW and McLaren Vale & Fleurieu along with the North Island, NZ. Plus we feature all of the lastest new release wines on offer. 82 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021

MEMBER EVENTS COVID - 19 ALERT *Normally we would have a series of trade and consumer tastings scheduled across Australia at major function venues but with the current social distancing and event rules in place this is clearly impossible. It seems pointless to flag future possibilities at this stage when we don’t know when things will return to normal or rules will be relaxed. We regret not being able to give you more information, particularly to those sponsors, our valued members and supporters who love attending our events. Stay safe and healthy and as things evolve we will keep you updated. Event cancellations will be posted on our events section of our website. APRIL 2021 Wine & Gourmet Japan 21-23 April, 2021 Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo, Japan Details at: www.wineandgourmetjapan.com MAY 2021 Worlds Greatest Shiraz Challenge XVI National Wine Centre, Adelaide Event TBA. JULY 2021 Emerging & Alternative Varietals Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth Event TBA. SEPTEMBER 2021 Winestate Wine of the Year 2021 Subscriber Tasting National Wine Centre, Adelaide Event TBA. NOVEMBER 2021 Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (Australia) Adelaide Convention Centre Date to be advised By Invitation only (Trade Only and VIP Guests) Event TBA. Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (New Zealand) Date and venue to be advised By Invitation only (Trade Only & VIP Guests) Event TBA. JOIN US TODAY! For further enquiries email to: By becoming a Winestate Member [email protected] you will receive complimentary or phone 08 83579277 tickets to our events!

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