Winestate Magazine May June 2022

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE TRIUMPH &McLaren Vale, FROM Langhorne Creek Fleurieu TURMOIL 208 tasted DOC ADAMS IS JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED IN PURSUIT OF PERFECTION Adelaide Hills PARACOMBE LEADS THE PACK 139 tasted OUT OF THE HAZE May/June 2022 AND INTO THE Vol 45 Issue 3 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) LIMELIGHT NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 WOODY NOOK BLAZES A BRIGHT PATH EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Wines of the West • McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu Adelaide Hills • Nor th Island, NZ • New Releases

You can take the wine out of the bottle, but you can’t take the out of the wine. 201 Blewitt Springs RD, McLaren Flat, South Australia 5171 www.grandeurwellington.com.au

NO.313 MAY/JUNE 2022 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely Yorke NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Peninsula Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Cellar Door and Function Centre Open 7 days 10am-5pm Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Maitland, South Australia Marketing & Sales Debra Silver E: [email protected] Phone (08) 8834 1258 Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] barleystackswines.com Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (02) 7618 2945 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Berlinda Conti Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2022 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 3

contents MAY/JUNE 2022 30 FEATURES 30 IN PURSUIT OF PERFECTION R E G U L A R S Thinking outside the square 22 OUT OF THE HAZE AND INTO 8 Briefs THE LIMELIGHT has become the catch-cry for 15 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW picturesque Adelaide Hills winery, 16 European Report with Berlinda Conti takes us on a ‘trip' Paracombe Wines. Starting Sally Easton to celebrate WA's Wilyabrup with virtually zero wine industry 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley regions' success story - Woody experience, Paul and Kathy 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Nook Wines, that is this year Drogemuller, have successfully 34 Grapevine celebrating their 40th Anniversary! carved their own path with state- 90 Aftertaste From humble beginnings to their of-the-art design, sustainable medal winning status, achieving infrastructure, a passion for W I N E TAST I N G S a Winestate Top 5 Chardonnay of innovation and a dedication to the Year, this winery is definitely quality. And this shows in the 44 Adelaide Hills headed in the right direction. results, with two of their wines 52 Wines of the West taking out equal top in category in 60 McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, 26 TRIUMPH FROM TURMOIL this issue's Adelaide Hills tasting. Fleurieu & Surrounds Most wineries have been impacted 70 North Island NZ 74 Michael Cooper Recent Releases in some form by the Covid-19 pandemic but for McLaren Vale 80 New Releases based winery, Doc Adams, this seemed to hit harder than most. After a trifecta of challenges, it seems that this well-loved brand is back on track with a revitalised outlook, new cellar door location and new winemaker at the helm, writes Nigel Hopkins. 26 22 22 Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 313 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au May/June 2022 Cover photograph alex9500 4 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

Every good Little Tacker has a dark side... 98 POINTS Barossa Boy Wines 2018 Little Tacker GSM barossaboywines.com.au

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editorial I HAVE SAID THIS SO MANY TIMES OVER the past few issues it may be verging on getting boring. I know that the trend now is to drink what is in front of you but please don’t miss out on getting a few extra wines to put away for further cellaring. Not only will you be delighted to enjoy these in the future, but you will also be helping out the many wineries who may be doing it a little tougher than usual. Heaven knows I can’t remember a time when more great wines have been heavily discounted. Whilst this may last into next year this opportunity is not going to last forever. And definitely try some wines you have not tried before. If you can’t find some of the wines, we recommend going direct to their website and I am sure the wineries will help you out on either where to source or buy from them. In this issue we have the usual smorgasbord of tastings, informative columns and feature stories. Lots for everyone! Across the board we have good recommendations for you ranging from the cooler climate of the Adelaide Hills, with its up and down microclimates offering a multitude of varietal options, and our Wines of the West feature, more of a snapshot this year than usual, with various highway, fire and covid issues cutting into the numbers submitted. Here we see some excellent wines from Margaret River along with cool climate versions from the deep south, Pemberton and Frankland River. McLaren Vale & Greater Fleurieu is always interesting with the bigger flavoursome wines of the former region, being somewhat tempered from some wineries now, but others still offering the blockbusters we expect. Within the Fleurieu designation we also have the elegant cool climate wines from Langhorne Creek, Currency Creek and Southern Fleurieu. These can also blend beautifully with richer McLaren Vale fruit as the red wine Master, Wolf Blass, showed us with his eponymous Black Label wines. As usual we conducted our New Releases feature tasting from the latest wines available from around the country along with the occasional import. The offerings this time are well worth chasing up. New Zealand features with a selection from the North Island, predominantly the classic Hawkes Bay Region which consistently produces among the best cabernets and shiraz/syrah wines in the country. Our tasting editor, Michael Cooper, also added the latest Kiwi New Release wines to the mix. For our feature stories we have firstly, Woody Nook from Western Australia’s Wilyabrup region that is this year celebrating its 40th Anniversary – a huge achievement and great read. For McLaren Vale we feature a story on the trials and tribulations of Doc Adams Wines (which might make you think twice about starting a winery). Owners’ orthopaedic surgeon Dr Darren Waters and his wife, general practitioner Elizabeth, teamed up with winemaker and viticulturalist Adam Jacobs – combining their names to come up with Doc Adams. Whilst, Adams has bowed out to focus on other endeavours, it continues to be a labour of love for the owners, with a great community spirit involving partnerships with numerous growers in the region and a brand-new locale. This is followed by Paracombe Wines from the Adelaide Hills where owners Paul and Kathy Drogemuller started from scratch in the eighties and pioneered a number of varieties in the region and are continuing on with on-going innovations with their family involved. A recipe for success. Lots of interesting stuff in this issue; lots of wines to try and lots to enjoy! Cheers, Peter Simic Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Editor/Publisher Your wine, Major Sponsors and Supporters our ports. Australia Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com 7 May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E

briefs TAHBILK CHANGING OF THE GUARD MORNINGTON PENINSULA MECCA ALISTER Purbrick is standing down as head of Tahbilk - Victoria's WINE-loving visitors to Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula have a oldest family-owned winery. new “must visit” destination with the reopening of The Continental Sorrento, which is billed as one of “Australia’s premier lifestyle And Tahbilk has gone outside the wine industry to appoint a destinations”. replacement. The complex will feature a curated collection of dining, Tahbilk, established in 1860, has been owned and operated by entertainment, luxury hotel and wellness experiences to one of the Purbrick family since 1925. Victoria’s most popular seaside towns. Fourth generation Alister Purbrick will retire in June and will be A Mornington Peninsula landmark since 1875, the heritage-listed replaced as Chief Executive Officer by Ross Sudano. Sudano is site has been reimagined by award-winning architects Woods described as having \"experience in disrupting existing markets\". Bagot as a six-level, five-building precinct with three parts. He has worked with familiar brands including Little Creatures They include the InterContinental Sorrento Mornington Peninsula Brewing, Anaconda Adventure Stores, BP Australia, Foodland with 108 rooms, terrace suites and penthouses with seaside views Associated Limited and The Reject Shop. and a Mediterranean pool deck; a collection of hospitality venues, headlined by Audrey’s restaurant – a dining experience from Scott Alister Purbrick is a well-known figure on the Australian wine Pickett – together with a public bar, beer garden, late-night venue, landscape, having served on several industry boards and and sunset terrace. committees over the course of his career. This includes his role as the inaugural chair of Australia’s First Families of Wine, this country’s The attractions also include Aurora Spa & Bathhouse - a leading group of multi-generational wine families, established in wellness centre with eight treatment rooms, a relaxation lounge, 2009, and as past president of the Winemakers Federation of boutique, float room, four hydro-therapy pools and unique thermal Australia (now Australian Grape & Wine Incorporated). experiences, spanning traditional sauna to salt therapy and an ‘igloo’ ice room. “After 43 years running my family businesses, Tahbilk and the Tahbilk Group, it’s time for me to pass the baton on,\" Purbrick said. “After an extensive build and many months of planning we are delighted to be lifting the curtain on what we believe will be one \"After an exhaustive recruitment process, overseen by a family of Australia’s premier coastal destinations for travel and gourmet and independent member panel, we welcome Ross and are certain experiences,” says Pickett. “For everyone involved, this is a once- that his extensive and proven business acumen and leadership in-a-lifetime opportunity, and we can’t wait to welcome guests skills will build on the successes achieved over 162 years of across the threshold.” operation.” AFTER ISO BENEFIT FROM A BREW Sudano will be based at Tahbilk’s corporate office in Melbourne with regular time spent overseeing operations based in the AFTER being isolated from the rest of the world, Western Australia Nagambie Lakes region of Victoria. welcomed its first international and interstate arrivals in March. Tahbilk has over 220 hectares under vine and produces around Visitors can now check out the new Gage Road Brewing facility 120,000 cases of wine each year. in hip and happening Fremantle, the port city just south of Perth. 8 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

briefs The new venue opened last month in the historic A Shed building lunch with friends and family - all these events that are iconic parts at Fremantle's Victoria Quay. of the Australian summer. Built in 1926, the 100-metre-long dockside cargo shed at the “Making something that was low on alcohol and super easy to entrance to the harbour has been transformed into a brewery, drink and refreshing played right into all those themes. restaurant, bar, and family-friendly venue – with much of the shed's heritage still retained throughout. “With sharing in mind, we’ve packaged the Table Sour in cans as well as in 750ml wine bottles that are just waiting to be cracked Located right on the Walyalup Waterfront, the venue also includes opened and fill tumblers around the table. a 100-metre strip of alfresco seating overlooking the ocean between Fremantle and Rottnest Island, from which Gage Roads “Matt and the team at Highs and Lows shared that sentiment took its name, plus a children's play area. and were a big part in developing the product and the branding.” Guests can sample the full range of Gage Roads beers on tap, Credaro said the Table Sour is a harmony of fruit, herb and spice poured direct from 16 different tanks, along with a rotating list of flavours and aromas. brewery-only exclusive brews. “The Highs and Lows crew came up with the idea of using Executive chef Danny Sanchez is serving up bites and share great local produce, specifically peaches and salt bush in the plates inspired by the sea featuring local produce, as well as beer,” he said. wood-fired pizzas. “The result is a wild combination of fruit and herb characters; The brewery is part of Fremantle's Victoria Quay revitalisation it really is a complex beer and one with great structure and project – which looks to develop the port precinct into a major balance for a low-alcohol beverage. At the same time, it’s really tourism and recreation space. refreshing and accessible, and at 2.4 per cent ABV one you can enjoy for longer.” NEW TAKE ON TRADITIONAL SOUR Shelter is a brewery and family-friendly venue on the Busselton SHELTER BREWING Co. has a new beer in collaboration with West Foreshore just north of Margaret River. www.shelterbrewing. Australian fashion label and outlet Highs and Lows: Table Sour. com.au. The beer is a modern, Australian take on a traditional table sour. NEW CEO FOR MCLAREN VALE G,W&T Shelter head brewer Jason Credaro said Shelter and Highs ASSOCIATION and Lows shared a vision about making a beer inspired by community and shared experiences. THE McLaren Vale Grape, Wine and Tourism Association has announced “Traditionally a table Erin Leggat as its new Chief Executive sour is a low-alcohol beer Officer. that families and workers would share around the Having spent ten years with the lunch or dinner table federal Department of Foreign Affairs after a hard day’s work,” and Trade, most recently as Deputy he said. Director of the DFAT South Australia State Office, she joins MVGWTA with “We wanted to bring significant background in trade and that idea into modern investment policy, advocacy, and Australia and produce a commercial diplomacy, including on behalf of the Australian beer to be enjoyed at the wine industry. beach, a picnic, holiday “For the last five years Erin has been closely involved with the wine May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs sector, including during her overseas postings,” says MVGWTA growers to allow their grapes to go rotten,\" Darren recalls. chairman David Spear. \"They thought we were both mad, yet here we are celebrating 40 “Her most recent role in South Australia enabled her to consult years of Noble One and what a journey it has been. closely with the state government, industry associations and export \"One of my favourite memories from the early days of Noble One businesses, conducting outreach and analysis to support informed national trade policy and facilitate new market opportunities. I believe was being awarded the trophy for best sweet wine in the world Erin will bring significant experience to us in these key areas.” at the International Wine and Spirit Awards in 1984 by Madame Odette Pol Roger. At the time it was like a dream.\" Leggatt has worked in numerous overseas locations, including postings with DFAT in Vietnam and Chile. One fascinating fact about Noble One is that there is no sugar added into the wine, the sweetness is all natural and comes solely She holds a Bachelor of Asian Studies and a Bachelor of Arts from from the semillon grapes. the Australian National University (ANU) and an executive certificate in Event Management from the University of Technology Sydney (UTS). This makes it an ideal wine for pairing with blue cheese and patés, She also speaks four languages. with the salty/savoury characters of the dishes balanced out with the natural sweetness of the wine. Visit www.debortoli.com.au/ “I am excited to take on the role of CEO of this incredible organisation, representing such a diverse and exciting region,” she said. “I am KAMP IN A KOMBI looking forward to working alongside members, staff, and stakeholders to further promote McLaren Vale’s reputation for premium winemaking THE Huon Valley in the deep south of Tasmania is home to several and excellence in innovation, sustainability, and experiential tourism, outstanding wine producers, including Home Hill, Kate Hill, Two Bud particularly internationally. I am well across the challenges facing the Spur, Elsewhere, Hartzview and Heriot’s Point, as well as Chatto and SA wine industry and look forward to working with members to address Sailor Seeks Horse (which are open by appointment only). their specific concerns and advocate for their businesses”. The region is also known for ciders from Willie Smith’s, Pagan MVGWTA is funded by the McLaren Vale Wine Industry Fund and and Frank’s, and for a wide range of gourmet goodies that thrive is a membership-based Association that is governed by a board of in the cool temperatures. directors. Now visitors to the region – the southernmost wine district in 40 YEARS OF HITTING THE SWEET SPOT Australia – can sample a unique accommodation option at Kombi Kamp, in bushland just a short drive from Huonville. DE BORTOLI'S iconic Noble One dessert wine is celebrating 40 years of continued success. Think a beautiful fast-flowing creek, wildlife, absolute peace and quiet and comfortable double bed accommodation in a converted Since its first release in 1982, Noble One has been awarded former VW Kombi van. over 182 trophies and 505 gold medals globally. Combining the retro vibe of the kombi with the rustic charm of It is one of the most awarded wines in history. wooden outbuildings (a kitchen/diner, outdoor shower, and toilet), Darren de Bortoli created Noble One at the family winery at the Kombi Kamp offers guests the chance to enjoy an off-grid, Bilbul, in the Riverina region of New South Wales in 1982. camping-style stay but with all the luxuries. Today the \"sticky\" remains the benchmark of Australian botrytis dessert winemaking. From the open fire pit, abundant wildlife, magnificent private \"It feels like only yesterday that Dad and I were asking the local swimming holes to the outdoor shower, sunny kitchen and deck space overlooking the creek, the cosy pot belly stove and gas barbecue, Kombi Kamp is a quirky, unique experience. 10 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

briefs The star of the show is Frida, a restored 1975 blue transporter Burton, co-founder, and previous co-owner of Gundog Estate with Combi who comes complete with a full-sized double bed for a very her ex-husband Matt. comfortable night of sleep. To offer a little personal touch, Frida comes styled in the guests’ choice of theme – Boho Ivory, Mandala Burton said she is proud to be the creator, director, and CEO of Magic, or Flower Power. her own wine business. Kombi Kamp owners Pam Lane and Nic Smith have lived on the “I’ve lived and breathed the wine and tourism business for years, 80-acre property for over 20 years. working on joint projects or other people’s passions,\" she said. “Kombi Kamp gives our guests the chance to experience the \"Wild Ren Wines is 100% me and it’s my message to my two iconic cool kombi vibe in a stunning private rural setting,” says Pam. daughters and other girls out there that you can take control of “The Kamp is exclusively yours for your stay – no sharing, which your destiny.” makes it a perfect venue for couples seeking their own space.” Situated at Peppers Creek Village, Wild Ren’s cellar door is The fully equipped kitchen hut offers a butane gas stove for quick designed to emulate an intimate wine bar vibe and there are plans and effective gas cooking. The hut is also stocked with pots, pans, for private group tastings and regular exclusive events. and utensils, as well as basic pantry including locally roasted coffee, and a herb garden. The boutique shopping village location is also home to artisan speciality providers, gifts and homewares and a café. Breakfast provisions including farm fresh eggs, local bakery bread, milk and jam are also provided for your stay. A Waeco fridge Burton is working with close friend and winemaker Scott Comyns is provided to keep provisions – and wines you have picked up at to produce wines that include semillon, semillon/sauvignon blanc, local cellar doors - cold. shiraz, gruner veltliner, rosé, vermentino, sangiovese and GSM, with chardonnay, pinot noir and a fortified in the pipeline. The Kamp is situated in the heart of the Huon Valley and is a perfect base for exploration of the local artisanal food and Carrying labels featuring the namesake Wren created by Hunter beverage scene, as well as the region’s natural environment and local Krysten Jade, Wild Ren Wines are available exclusively heritage attractions. through the cellar door and on Bookings can be made through airbnb.com at www.airbnb.com. the company’s website. au/rooms/53053371 “We want people to feel WILD REN WINES FORGES NEW PATH connected and inspired by Wren Wines - to drink the THE Hunter Valley has welcomed a new wine company - launched wine and feel emboldened by an entrepreneur with 20 years of wine industry experience. to change their world for the better,” Burton said. Female-owned and -run Wild Ren Wines is the brainchild of Renee She has plans that will see Wild Ren create a program for May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs young female entrepreneurs to help build their self-esteem and encourage them to realise their potential. “I’m passionate about playing a part in developing the next generation of girls, encouraging them to dream and giving them the tools and tactic to be fearless and courageous in taking control of their own destiny.” See https://wrenwines.com.au/ LIFE IS AN ADVENTURE IN CLARE BAROSSA BOY WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR THE Clare Valley is undoubtedly one of the most scenic wine MATT Pellew’s key role in the successes of Corryton Burge’s regions in Australia and a newly launched walk through the region inaugural wine releases, along with his more than 20-year is aimed at food and wine buffs who also enjoy an entertaining contribution to the Barossa wine industry, saw the winemaker meander to work up an appetite. named the 2022 Barossa Winemaker of the Year. The Life's An Adventure Clare walk runs over three days with The prestigious award was presented to Matt at the Barons of guests being picked up from, and returned to the Hilton Hotel in Barossa’s annual Declaration of Vintage event at The Barossa Adelaide, two hours’ away. Cellar in February. The Clare is one of the oldest and best-known wine regions in The Barons of Barossa, a wine fraternity of almost 100 men Australia with plenty of history and some delightful cellar doors and women established in 1975 to promote and foster the world- and pubs to be enjoyed. renowned region’s wine, food, heritage, and lifestyle, gather each year on the third Sunday of February to declare the vintage. This walk is just as much about wine and food as it is about walking. There are two dinners, two breakfasts and three lunches featured, The event heralds the official start of the Barossa grape including two long winery lunches. harvest and recognises a winemaker who has made a significant Accommodation for both nights is at Bungaree Station - a contribution to the industry, producing wines that exhibit the heritage-listed historic country retreat with a history that dates regionality of Barossa grapes, and generously shares their back to 1841. knowledge with others. The initial walk will be from May 27-29 with more dates to be announced, and groups will be limited to 12 people. “It’s a fantastic honour and all the more special as it is presented by Highlights include lunch at the delightful Skilogalee winery, an a the Barons of Barossa,” said Matt, a born and bred South Australian la carte dinner or degustation at the superbly renovated Watervale whose winemaking studies and 30-year working life has taken him to Hotel and lunch at Pauletts Wines and Bush DeVine Restaurant, some of the best wine regions in the world - and back to the Barossa. where the views are magnificent. Tastings range from one-man operation Mad Bastard to bigger Pellew has completed vintages in France, Italy and the US and operations like family-owned Taylor's. worked locally at Penfolds, Wirra Wirra, Primo Estate and Grant All the walks are pack-free - guests just carry a small day pack. Burge Wines before joining the team at Burge Barossa and The trails comprise largely back roads, road reserves and private representing Trent and Amelia Burge’s recently launched brand, property and there is a local guide on hand at all times. Corryton Burge. The first day walk is around 10km, the second day 12-14km and the third day 10km - all easily manageable. https:// www.lifesanadventure.com.au/tours/3-day-clare-valley-wine- wilderness-walk/ SUSTAINABLE PROOF AUSTRALIANS are increasingly concerned about the environment. In March, sustainability will be celebrated with events including Clean up Australia Day, World Water Day, and Earth Hour. Drew Doty, marketing manager of Proof Drinks Australia, says 12 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

briefs sustainability has become a core value for alcohol brands and the Australian alcohol market over the next few years,\" says Doty. consumers in the UK and US - and that we can expect to see a \"We’re already seeing enormous success at faster rates for similar direction in Australia. brands who have a focus on environmental preservation and Recent research has shown that 48% of US alcohol drinkers say climate change, such as Cazcabel Tequila, which has grown their purchasing decisions are positively influenced by a company’s 300% due to its alignment with consumer trends and commitment sustainability or environmental initiatives. to sustainability. As the importance of long-term sustainability becomes front “With drinks producers across the world now making efforts and centre both for brands and consumers globally, Proof Drinks to offset their impact on the environment, we’re seeing nuanced believes focusing on the growth of sustainable alcohol brands on ways of crafting sustainable alcohol products like we’ve never our shores has been one of the key focus pillars and reasons for seen before.” the company’s growth. SPIN THE BOTTLE “The sheer attention that sustainability gets at this time of year certainly contributes to consumers evaluating their own MUSIC lovers might do a double take when they look at the environmental impact from waste and plastic in particular,\" Doty says. sommelier serving them at top London restaurant Clove Club. “In recent years, we have seen alcohol drinkers place more and Dominic Smith is not only the wine guru at the Michelin-starred more value on the kind of environmental impact their favourite eatery, but he also has a second career as Dynamite MC, a well- beverage brands have on our world, and this is reflected both known rapper and MC. Dynamite MC, now 46, has been a fixture in brand innovation within this space, and the resulting sales for on the drum and bass scene for two decades, touring the globe. those making it a priority. More recently his focus has been on educating people about “Brands in the European and US markets are increasing focus wine. His diverse twin interests have won him attention ranging on sustainability, and the shift is certainly happening here in from the Financial Times to gossip site Popbitch. Australia, too. He told the FT: \"My real epiphany was with a bottle of 2011 Crocus \"With these changing customer behaviours, Proof Drinks Australia Malbec de Cahors I ordered to celebrate winning MC of the Year have been championing specific international brands that reflect at the Drum&BassArena Awards in 2015. this heightened interest, focusing on those that are specifically minimising their footprint via the reduction of single-use materials \"I tasted it and it just hit me: wow, this is incredible, melting, and water wastage.” velvet. I Googled it to find out more, and I saw a link to the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, and I thought, why not go educate myself?” The Proof Drinks portfolio includes Cazcabel Tequila, Silent Pool Gin, The Lost Explorer Mezcal and Wild-Arbor Cream Liqueur. He quickly competed his WSET levels 1, 2 and 3 and was offered a job by Clove Club co-founder Daniel Willis. Silent Pool Super Premium Gin, from the UK, for instance, has created the world’s first 100% recyclable woodland gin bottle, and The experience was, “completely eye-opening. I’d eaten in fine- has a strong focus on reducing water wastage. dining restaurants all over the world on tour, but there’s a huge difference between being a guest and working in a restaurant, Cazcabel Tequila, meanwhile, uses a brand-new distillery being part of this beautiful ballet that’s going on all the time purposely built around existing trees to help support the natural unnoticed that is practised and rehearsed,\" he said. sourcing of ingredients and uses recycled glass bottles. \"The preparation and detail that go into making a restaurant “We can certainly expect to see a rise in sustainability as a function so seamlessly is incredible. I had to earn my stripes.\" chief value for brands both already here and for those entering Smith’s big loves are Champagne and pinot noir, but he still performs as a musician on a regular basis. TOURING TO START UP AGAIN HEDONISTIC Hiking's European tours re-start in May with new tours to central Italy, Sardinia and Corsica, and a selection of new foodie-related experiences. The Hedonistic Hiking team say their tours are as much about gastronomic and cultural experiences that provide real insight May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs into the region you're walking through as the actual exercise you to the rear of the church was in are getting. a particularly ruined state and posed a genuine danger before And demand for the tours is apparently high, with many tours its recent collapse in the storms. selling out up to two years in advance, but there is still availability on tours to Central Italy, centred on the town of Orvieto; a Parmesan The Council acted quickly production and pilgrim trail; a classic Tuscan Harvest tour including to protect the community and a pasta-making class, and a walk encompassing truffle hunting issued an Emergency Demolition and a cooking class in Piedmont. Order. All tours are fully-inclusive, including guided walking, gourmet \"With the Sunday School gone, picnic lunches, gastronomic dinners with wine, museum visits it deeply saddens me that and food/wine tastings or cookery classes, and airport transfers. vandals turned their attention to destroying the historically and Accommodation is in locally-owned hotels and alberghi diffusi, architecturally significant church an initiative that has brought old homes back to life. itself,\" says David Penman. “Virtually all of the stained glass windows have been smashed Hedonistic Hiking tours run in Australia and Europe (mainly Italy) beyond salvage and some have even had their frames ripped and the company was established in 2007 by Anglo/Australian from the wall. Doors have been torn from hinges and racist graffiti couple, Jackie and Mick Parsons, one of whom leads each tour. has been sprayed both inside and outside the church. Most lights fittings have been smashed and people have even been defecating Discover full details at www.hedonistichiking.com and remember in the Church. flights are not included in the published prices. \"Time has wrought water leaks, rotting floors, mould and crumbling brickwork.\" A HOLY HAVEN? St Andrew’s was notable for its stunning pipe organ, built by E. Cornwall Cook in 1904. One of only two surviving organs by THE team behind award-winning luxury accommodation Clifftop Cook in Australia. at Hepburn and Samurai Villas have taken on a new challenge: The restoration and renewal of the church is a significant and converting a derelict church to luxury accommodation. costly project that requires considerable financial resources and time. David and Manolita Penman have purchased the once grand The Penmans have plans in train, subject to council approval, to St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church in Daylesford – a great base convert the remains of the church into two luxury villas and build for exploring the Macedon Ranges wine region - and plan to pay several townhouses to the rear. www.clifftopathepburn.com.au respect to the church's history as they transform it into somewhere special to stay. Time has not been kind to St Andrew’s. The buildings have been neglected and frequented by local youths for sex, drugs, alcohol and vandalism. The dilapidated wooden Sunday School COANIOLA WINES 29/07/2021 10:03:23 AM YAA VALLEY Corniola Wines is nestled in the heart of the famous Yarra Valley wine region in Victoria. Experience the smaller, family owned and operated winery and Cellar Door. We are pleased to offer you our current range of wines made from hand-picked Estate grown fruit and from selected vineyards, with the focus being to create affordable wines of premium high quality. 100 Wills Rd, Dixons Creek VIC 3775, Australia Phone: 03 5965 2393 Opening Hours: 10:30am – 5:00pm, Monday - Sunday www.corniolawines.com.au 14 AD_CoWrnioIlaNWEineSs_TQAPHT_SEO2M1.inadyd/J1une 2022

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW NEW GI FOR BANNOCKBURN HOPE ON THE HORIZON CENTRAL Otago’s sub-region Bannockburn has been formally HOPE is finally on the horizon for the end of the labour shortage registered as a Geographical Indication (GI). Carrick winemaker with New Zealand’s borders reopening in five phases over the next Rosie Menzies, who worked on the application, says, “It’s been a long few months. For most wineries it’s too late for seasonal workers and journey to get here. First, the wider New Zealand wine regions had working holiday visa holders to join the current harvest but it’s likely to to be in place – something that was achieved five or six years ago. mean a better state of affairs for both winter pruning and the coming Then it was a case of collecting evidence to show that Bannockburn season. Prior to covid, New Zealand welcomed around 50,000 was a clearly defined sub-region within Central Otago.” Central Otago working holiday visa holders annually, who made up a significant Winegrowers general manager Jake Tipler says, \"Whilst the Central number of horticulture workers as well as filling vacancies throughout Otago brand name will always be first and foremost for the region, there the similar beleaguered hospitality industry. Quarantine-free travel has always been a concern that sub-regions may also be exposed to New Zealand opened early March, initially to New Zealanders to misrepresentation,\" and he expects that other sub-regions will in travelling from Australia then subsequently the rest of the world, and time follow in its footsteps. The GI will provide legal protection for by October should be back to its pre-pandemic state. Bannockburn both within and outside of New Zealand. STATE OF THE INDUSTRY BRIGHTER TIMES AHEAD THE $2bn export value of New Zealand’s wine may be old news, but AT the time of writing grapes are streaming into wineries the length a recent NZ Institute of Economic Research report details all the other and breadth of the country. The tail-end of a tropical cyclone brought ways in which the alcohol industry contributes to the wider economy. a dash of heavy rain to most of New Zealand’s eastern coast in mid- The report outlines a NZ$1.92bn contribution to GDP, NZ$1.82bn in February, however the resumption of warm, dry conditions has left excise and GST and a further $2bn spend on domestic goods and vignerons feeling largely very positive about Vintage 2022s’ quality. services. There are also 1,865 beer, wine and spirits businesses Paul Pujol, winemaker and GM of Prophet’s Rock in Central Otago has employing over 10,000 people with a further 21,000 employed brought in chardonnay and pinot gris so far, commenting, “The fruit indirectly via support businesses such as packaging, logistics, yeast was amazing, spotlessly clean and tasted so good. It pressed really and hops suppliers etc., not to mention the hospitality sector, which well, yielding really clean juice… I think we’re in for a treat.” The timing employs another 172,000 people. Interestingly this has occurred of New Zealand’s first major community outbreak of Covid (since the against a background of social change in which alcohol consumption March 2020 lockdown) has been a tricky additional ball to juggle, not has decreased around 25% over the past 40 years due to changes least coming as it does amidst an already acute labour shortage. Chair in socializing habits and health consciousness. The report makes for of New Zealand Winegrowers, Phillip Gregan, says, “The introduction fascinating reading as it outlines the ever-changing landscape for of Omicron into the New Zealand community on the cusp of vintage wineries, breweries and distillers: premiumisation, increasing focus on 2022 has been a very serious concern for growers and wineries, as this sustainability including local and organic production, R&D innovation is our busiest time of year, and we are already facing a critical labour and now the recent trend of low- and no-alcohol products. shortage in some regions. The unavailability of skilled workers due to the ongoing closure of New Zealand’s borders means undoubtedly SAVVY SAUVIGNON PLANS this vintage will be more difficult to manage than normal.” Despite these headaches, Gregan feels confident the industry will rise to the THE Bragato Research Institute (BRI) has announced the Sauvignon challenge, adding, “Over the past two years, wineries and growers Blanc Grapevine Improvement Programme in partnership with the have proven that they can manage the threat of Covid well, continue to government to develop new variants of sauvignon blanc, with the operate effectively, and adapt processes to ensure they protect workers goal of making them more resilient and sustainable to pressures and other New Zealanders.” Whilst it’s early days, it’s hoped that this from pests and diseases as well as climate change. Sauvignon harvest will also deliver enough fruit to build back up stocks after the Blanc provides 87% of NZ’s export revenue but vines are almost smaller 2021 harvest, which was 19% down on the previous year. With entirely the same clone, making them vulnerable to new pests, high demand for New Zealand wine, many wineries have drawn down diseases or environmental change. The seven-year NZ$18.7m on stocks in an attempt to maintain supply – New Zealand wine sales investment will allow BRI to create up to 20,000 entirely new variants, for 2021 were 324 million litres, 48 million more litres than was actually screening them to identify those exhibiting the most useful traits. produced. The smaller 2021 harvest meant the first downward blip in a long while for exports, which dipped 3% to NZ$1.94bn. Keep an CHANGING OF HANDS eye out next issue for a full harvest roundup. HAWKE’S Bay producer Sacred Hill and three associated companies went into receivership last year, owing nearly NZ$99m. They have now been sold for $49m which sadly leaves unsecured creditors out of pocket but does provide some certainty for the brand and employees. Sacred Hill’s Hawke’s Bay business, which continued trading through the sale process, was purchased by the Poulter Family, who export produce and bulk wine, and who have appointed ex-Villa Maria, Nick Picone as chief winemaker. Sacred Hill Marlborough Vineyards was sold for $42.9m by contract winemaker Vinlink. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 15

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW THE ORGANIC NATURE OF THINGS CERTIFIED organic viticulture has been more than twice the size of Australia’s Champagne), to more typical 13% in Spain, a benchmark of viticulture looking to entire vineyard area. Add in other EU 14% in France and 15% in Italy. preserve the finite resource that is soil, (European Union) countries such as biodiversity, and to reduce agrochemical Germany, Austria and Greece, and Europe All of this is to highlight that certified inputs. It has moved from quirky oddity accounts for 84% of the world’s certified organic viticulture is no minority sport. of the 1980s and 1990s, to something organic vineyards. Almost all of these are aspirational, if not yet mainstream. It’s for wine grape production. By comparison, However, this sector of the wine industry worth remembering that ‘non-organic’ Australia is some way behind, with less may be under threat. The EU has put agriculture - conventional agriculture - is than 1% of the nation’s vineyard under copper on its list of agricultural products a phenomenon of post-world war two, as organic certification. to be banned completely, owing to toxicity agrochemicals were widely introduced in effects in the environment. This ban may the 1940s and became lauded as a way Combined, the organic come in from 2025, and it is feared it may to produce high yields of crops, more put certified organic producers out of reliably, with reduced manpower inputs; vineyard area of these business, or having to abandon organic things that were desirable in the aftermath certification. This creates quite a degree of global conflict. But it didn’t take too many three countries was of urgency to find alternatives to the use decades before the risks of agrochemicals of copper in organic viticulture. were becoming evident, such as toxicity, more than twice the resistance development, and the damage Why is copper so important to organic to non-target species, and so a new organic size of Australia’s entire agriculture, viticulture included? Copper impetus began. sulphate (known as Bordeaux mixture when vineyard area. Add in mixed with hydrated lime) has been the In a study published in 2021 the OIV key preventative control method for downy (International Organisation of Vine and Wine, other EU (European mildew for more than 100 years. While it can a scientific and technical inter-governmental be used by both conventional and organic body working with vine-based products, Union) countries such farmers, it is currently the only option for including wine, table grapes, raisins, organic farmers. Conventional farmers can vinegar) estimated that the global certified as Germany, Austria also use synthetic pesticides, so they have organic vineyard area (all uses – wine alternative options. But chemical pesticides grapes, table grapes and raisins) in 2019 and Greece, and Europe are not permitted for use in certified organic was 454,000 hectares, or just over 6% of and biodynamic viticulture. the world’s total vineyard area accounts for 84% of the Downy mildew is a ubiquitous disease OIV reported that during the 15 years world’s certified organic that thrives in warmish, damp, high between 2005 and 2019, certified organic humidity environments. Both vegetative vineyards increased by an average of vineyards. growth and berries (while green) are 13% per year, compared to a just-under susceptible, which means the threat is 0.5% per year decrease for non-organic As a share of national vineyard area, a constant one throughout the several vineyards. Most of these are in Europe. certified organic vineyards in Europe vary months’ long growing season, especially in In 2019, the top three global producers, from 5% in Greece, a disproportionately much of Europe where rain can fall at any Italy, France and Spain together had high 14% in Austria (whose national time during the summer. Added to which more than three-quarters of the world’s vineyard is roughly the same size as that of climate change has already increased organic vineyards. Combined, the organic the length of the growing season. Downy vineyard area of these three countries was mildew can cause huge crop losses, up to 75% in one season is some cases. Olivier Humbrecht MW, of top-quality biodynamic 16 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace has designed to take account of a particularly CONNECT ON SOCIAL been quoted as saying that banning the damp, disease-heavy growing season, WITH WINESTATE use of copper sulphate could be the end with the anticipation that other seasons of organic cultivation. will need less than this new lower limit. For www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine comparison, NASAA (National Association Copper sulphate is typically sprayed on for Sustainable Agriculture Australia) twitter.com/winestateed to crops, ideally as a preventative control organic standards allow 8kg/ha per year measure. A challenge is that any copper for plant disease control, with a target for www.instagram.com/winestate/ washed off into the soil breaks down ongoing reduction. extremely slowly. But too much copper can Follow us and keep up to date with have harmful effects on plant growth, as Given that climate change is bringing all our latest wine info, tastings, well as on soil micro-organisms and other increasingly unpredictable weather with competitions and events on animals, including humans. both more hot spells and more extreme facebook, twitter and instagram. wet weather, this looks to be a challenging Absolute levels of copper in the soil are set of balls to juggle for organic producers. not a good measure of toxicity owing to Warmth and humidity are ideal breeding complex interactions of soil, geology and conditions for downy mildew. other things, including human activity such as farming inputs. Toxicity varies with soil Unless the recent EU regulation is types and plant types: copper toxicity tends extended, organic growers have only until to be lower in soils with higher organic the end of 2025 to find viable alternatives. matter. It tends to be lower in soils that are Typically a ban would not come into place less acidic. It tends to be lower in soils of until a viable and reliable alternative is higher clay content. And toxicity varies commercially available. Which is yet to be according to crop; that for vines is different found for use in organic farming. Things from that for a cereal crop. being trialled include micro-algal spray, seaweed spray, and plant oils, for example, A recent European soil survey, reported in a spray using orange peel. the journal Science of the Total Environment, found vineyard land use to have the highest Of course, another option may be to copper concentrations, with concentrations plant vine varieties bred for their disease- also being high for other permanent resistance, but that opens up a whole new crops such as olive groves and orchards. discourse about terroir, typicity, tradition Wetter, more humid, areas had the highest and regional identity. concentration owing to the need for frequent disease spraying regimes. This would especially include Champagne, and the northern Italian regions of Alto Adige, Trentino and Veneto. As a step toward a ban, the EU recently (2019) reduced the limit for copper sulphate for use in agriculture, including viticulture, from 6kg/ha, averaged over five years, to 4kg/ha, averaged over seven years. This averaging, or smoothing, effect is May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 17

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH PINOT Noir is a difficult grape variety to get Flat outside Lancefield produce a single similar concentrated wines. Dolerite is right. But when it is handled correctly, both bottling off their red basalt soils and my similar to basalt and is found on the east in the vineyard and winery, it is capable of tasting notes reflect the soil, “black fruit, coast of Tasmania. providing the finest entertainment in the brambly muscular wine with powerful world of wine. Understanding pinot noir Dr Rocco Longo, from the Tasmanian can be tricky as the grape has a number Pinot Noir is the fourth Institute of Agriculture, at the University of masquerades, which is driven by the of Tasmania has conducted research into region, soils and the hand of the winemaker. most crushed grape regional expressions of Australian pinot noir. In his project, which was summarised Pinot Noir loves a cool to warm climate. variety in Australia, in the Wine & Viticulture Journal (2021), But the conditions must be warm enough his team analysed pinot noir for Adelaide to get the grapes fully ripened, otherwise behind shiraz, cabernet Hills, Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula it has a habit of producing thin and and Tasmania. The team discovered herbaceous wines that lack colour. The one sauvignon and merlot. there were three ethyl esters, namely ethyl exception to this is if the grapes are made decanoate, 2-methylbutanoate and ethyl into sparkling wine. Champagne produces Some data claims that 2-methylproponoate as well as decanoic glorious sparkling wines from pinot noir. acid that made up regional expressions Occasionally they make table wines in the it is the most drunk red of pinot noir. Sounds double Dutch to me. region and if you have ever tried them, you Thankfully Dr Longo explains that ethyl will see they don’t make the best drinking wine in restaurants and decanoate contributes to the aromas of wines. Cool climate wine regions often black cherry, jam and smoke and this, experience more vintage variation, which if this is true it is a great along with decanoic acid, is found in Yarra can keep consumers on their toes. Valley wines. I’m intrigued with decanoic sign that Australians acid as it adds ‘complexity’ to a wine, Yields are usually kept low so as to which is what we want in a good pinot, concentrate the flavours in the bunches. It are acknowledging that correct? They found that Northern Tasmania can be compared to riesling as it reflects produced more concentrations of ethyl the soils in which it is grown. In Burgundy pinot noir is a better food 2-methylproponoate which produces sweet it is planted on a gentle limestone fruit and apple aromas. They also looked escarpment. Mid-slope vineyards wine than other grape at appearance and found that Adelaide produce the most concentrated wines, Hills wines develop quicker, picking up a they capture the sun, have the best top- varieties. brick red hue compared to other regions. soils and good drainage. Volcanic soils Mornington Peninsula was noted as having are also prized. Pinot Noir from these tannins (for a pinot). It had a savoury the least anthocyanins, which would mean soils have more depth and intensity. driven palate and equally long finish”. that they appear the lightest in colour. Igneous soils are more common in At Paringa Estate on the Mornington Australia than you would think, Pipers Peninsula they have Ferrasol soils which Clones are another determining factor River in Tasmania for instance has basalt, is a clay and basalt mixture and produce in the character of a pinot. The clone as does the Macedon Ranges. Curly MV6 is the most commonly planted one 18 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

Visit our website and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, news, competitions, tastings and events. Become a subscriber to enter into our exciting regular competitions. in Australia and provides structure to a on the palate. Herbaceous and stalky Follow us and keep up to wine. 114 is aromatic and fruity whilst characters are derived from the winemaker date with all our latest 115 is more like MV6 with spice and good choosing to use whole bunch fermentation wine info, tastings and tannin structure. Bernard Clone 777 has techniques to give more structure to the darker fruits and a velvet structure suited wine. Other producers, like Sandra de Pury events on facebook, twitter for aging. The Abel clone has a quirky at Yeringberg in the Yarra Valley, totally and instagram. history being first imported illegally into destems her fruit and follows a traditional New Zealand in a gumboot in the mid hand plunged fermentation in old milk vats. Winestate Magazine 1970’s. It was confiscated by Malcolm @WinestateEd Abel, a customs officer who sent it to Aged pinot noir can be a revelation, but it the NZ quarantine centre and once is hard to pick what will march-on after the www.winestate.com.au cleared he then planted it in his vineyard primary fruit fades. The best ones develop in West Auckland. Cuttings from there aromas and flavours of cured meats, such were then planted by Clive Paton at Ata as salami, barnyard and undergrowth Rangi in Martinborough in 1980 and this aromas. The latter, in French, is delightfully is now the mother block, as the West called sous bois and covers aromas such Auckland vineyard was a victim of urban as forest floor, mushrooms and truffle. sprawl. The clone is believed to have originated from one of best vineyards Pinot Noir is the fourth most crushed in Burgundy. It displays black cherries grape variety in Australia, behind shiraz, and higher acidity. Out of the relatively cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Some new French ENTRA-INTRA® clones, 943 data claims that it is the most drunk red seems promising. In a paper presented wine in restaurants and if this is true by viticulturalist Nick Dry in 2019 he it is a great sign that Australians are described it as having a “vibrant nose” acknowledging that pinot noir is a better and a front and middle palate displaying food wine than other grape varieties. “great flavour and complexity”. Alternatively, it is simply proof that the variety is a great solo performer. Using tasting notes done at the KPMG Sydney Royal Wine Show the most common aroma by far used to describe pinot noir are red fruits and cherries. Spice and stalky are followed by herbaceous, black fruits, strawberry, mint and floral. Pinot Noir, in general, should be elegant, with light to medium tannin structure and good acidity. The best pinots have a silky quality and leave a powerful impression May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING NEWPORT - AMERICA'S ORIGINAL SEASIDE RESORT RESURGES THE American seaside resort was invented you can play on the famed grass court or Still in the past - and happily so - The in Newport, Rhode Island. Some of the attend The Hall of Fame Championships, an White Horse Tavern in Marlborough Street wealthiest families in the US started ATP world tour event held in July. If you want is the oldest restaurant in the US and building extravagant mansions, ironically to break more of a sweat, the Cliff Walk, a dates back to 1673. The interior is early called summer cottages, during the 5.5-kilometre trail that connects Newport's colonial, but the menu is contemporary so-called Gilded Age in the late 19th historic mansions with the foreshore is one and upmarket, featuring artisanal cheeses, century. Anyone who became addicted of the best hikes in New England. locally-grown vegetables and prime cuts to the recent TV series of the same name, of meat. Seafood is a major focus from written by Julian Fellowes of Downtown Bellevue Avenue is where you will find the the lobster bisque to Rhode Island clam Abbey fame, googled locations for filming highest concentration of some of America's chowder and crab ravioli. Executive chef to discover that many of the scenes were most opulent vintage homes. The Breakers, Kevin DeMarco also plates up modern shot in the former Newport getaways of the takes on pork osso bucco and Steak Vanderbilts, Astors and Morgans, including Several of these plush Frites, 350g of prime New York sirloin The Breakers, Marble House and Chateau- with arugula salad, parmesan truffle fries sur-Mer. piles are open to the and chimichurri. The extensive wine list reveals that the moneyed crowd still dine Several of these plush piles are open public and like Highclere here regularly from the US$475 bottles to the public and like Highclere Castle in of Dom Perignon to the best California the UK, the home of the fictional Crawleys Castle in the UK, the chardonnays. in Downtown Abbey, they can be hired for weddings and events. Oscar-winning home of the fictional The sailing crowd gather at Clarke Cooke actress Jennifer Lawrence married her House, another Newport institution on longtime boyfriend Cooke Maroney in Crawleys in Downtown Bannister's Wharf. The multi-level venue an OTT ceremony at Newport's historic houses several restaurants overseen by Belcourt Mansion in 2019. Abbey, they can be hired Executive Chef Ted Gidley, who has worked with the who's who of America's top chefs, Newport is only a three-hour drive from for weddings and events. including Grant Achatz, Daniel Boulud and New York and 90 minutes by road from Thomas Keller. Whether you are looking for Boston and the town is again in the spotlight built for Cornelius Vanderbilt in the Italian bistro fare, fine dining or one of the best as a summer vacation alternative to the Renaissance style is the most famous. oyster bars in the state, this is the place to much-hyped Hamptons and Cape Cod. The 1974 film version of The Great Gatsby, book. Consistently top class, it's imperative Its pride was dented in 1983 by the loss starring Robert Redford and Mia Farrow, to leave room for the signature dessert - of the America's Cup to Australia, but one was filmed at the ornate Rosecliff Mansion. Snowball in Hell - a chocolate-covered ball of the best ways to start a visit is to take a My favourite is Marble House, modeled filled with chocolate roulade and ice-cream boat tour in and around Narragansett Bay on Petit Trianon in Versailles and built for and topped with Callebaut chocolate sauce before checking out Newport's chic bistros, William and Alva Vanderbilt in the 1890s. and roasted coconut. cocktail bars, restaurants and toney hotels. The cost of construction was US$11 million or US$280 million in today's money. Craft beers are a trend in Newport as The first port of call for many visitors is The they are worldwide, especially the local International Tennis Hall of Fame, where 20 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. brews from Newport Craft Brewing and largest collection of colonial era houses in Winestate Magazine Distiller Co. Founded by former college the US with more than 50 restored homes @WinestateEd friends in 1999, the spirits side of the from the mid to late 1700s. business debuted in 2006 as the first new distillery in Rhode Island for 135 years. The The perfect prelude to checking out some company's tap room is open daily and you of Newport's best bars. On the famous can enjoy bold IPAs, stouts and ales such Ocean Drive there's the Castle Hill Inn and as Rhode Trip IPA, Rhode Rage (a double drinks on The Lawn at this historic luxury IPA), and Bushwick Pilsner. Spirit lovers hotel and estate make you feel as if you should order Thomas Tew Widow's Walk have wandered onto a movie set. The Top Rum or Sea Fog Rye Whiskey. Bookmark of Newport is on the rooftop of the Viking a half day for the visit. Hotel in the heart of the historic district and sports sensational wraparound views. The Newport Vineyards is the largest grower Lobster Bar on Bowen's Wharf is renowned of grapes in New England. Locals John for its lobster rolls and craft cocktails. Other and Paul Nunes took over the 20-hectare well-patronised watering holes include The vineyard in 1995 and the 40-hectare Black Pearl, an historic waterfront bar on farmland property has become one of Bannisters Wharf and The Roof Deck at the Newport's major attractions. The tasting Vanderbilt Hotel with its panoramic views room and central venue underwent a of the harbour and Goat Island. multi-million renovation 10 years ago and you can order flights of award-winning You would have to spend several weeks in wines, including Island White (made from Newport to make your way through its huge wild grapes), Rochambeau and White rollcall of restaurants. Those pressed for Cap Port. The adjacent Taproot Brewing time should zoom in on Bowen's Wine Bar Co serves up F-Bomb (a New England & Grille, a nautical-themed restaurant with a IPA), Hot Pepper Milk Stout and Chaos (a seafood-dominated menu, Perro Salado, a double IPA). Executive chef Andy Teixeira Mexican eatery housed in the former home is a farm-to-table aficionado and all the of an 18th century naval officer, and The ingredients and cheeses used at the Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar with an Brix restaurant are locally-sourced and award-winning wine list of 300 vintages and expertly cooked. in-your-face views of Narragansett Harbor. No wonder the fabulously wealthy of The Newport is as chock-full of great Gilded Age and later movie stars, sailing restaurants and bars as its marinas are celebs and the well-heeled made Newport filled with millions of dollars’ worth of boats their home for the summer season. and yachts. The town's colonial heritage extends way beyond The White Horse Tavern and The Point district is home to the May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 21

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OUT OF THE HAZE AND INTO THE LIMELIGHT WOODY NOOK BLAZES A BRIGHT PATH INTO THE FUTURE BERLINDA CONTI Meandering down a red gravel track from Metricup Road, parking here is a casual affair, and while Margaret River is home to some THE late 70s in Margaret River was a magical time in WA’s of the industry’s most prolific, high-spec winery gigs, Woody Nook wine history. has barely changed since the Gallagher’s built the endearing cellar door and homestead (now guest accommodation) from mudbricks Although the spiritual home for peace-loving hippies, cheese and hard wood timber poles in the early 80s. cloth kaftans, hard-core surfers and beaten-up Combis (layered with nuances of patchouli and sandalwood and notes of a familiar The ‘business card’ wall still remains, as do the hessian-adorned “medicinal” smoky-haze) - there were very few wineries in the walls and traditional retro fonts depicted on the labels. deep, forested southwest back then – though, for the visionaries who established a vineyard during this whimsical era, the benefits The original café - the Nookery - serves a refreshingly honest have rewarded three-fold. menu (think chunky polenta chips, a classic taste plate with homemade hummus and local cheeses, and grass fed scotch Jeff and Wynn Gallagher, the original founders of Woody Nook fillet with baby tats and greens), with rustic veranda vibes and Wines (this year celebrating its 40-year anniversary), had the spectacular bushland views. The cellar door gift shop is a treasure- foresight to purchase prime viticultural land within the golden trove of wine-related items, many with quirky good humour attached triangle of Wilyabrup during this time. and several unique to Woody Nook. Revered for its rich loamy soils and near-perfect Bordeaux-like By 1999, the Gallagher’s settled on retirement and in 2000 sold conditions, the couple had every intention of planting vines in the business to current owners, Peter and Jane Bailey, who were 1978 when they purchased their 25-hectare property, framed in living in the US at the time. verdant bushland. Appreciating the importance of retaining consistency, aligned Captivated by a landscape of dense jarrah and marri forest (the with a fail-safe formula, the Baileys ensured the transition was site has retained around 12 hectares of existing bushland), the seamless, aside from purchasing an additional 20 hectares at the property was previously home to a sawmill and sleeper cutters. neighbouring “Joliffe” property in 2005 where the following year The Gallagher’s planted the first cabernet sauvignon vines in they planted 8 hectares of semillon, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, 1982 – the dry-grown single vineyard block for the label’s iconic tempranillo, graciano, shiraz, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. benchmark red. Jeff and Wynn’s son, Neil Gallagher, remained on site as Describing Woody Nook conjures up feelings of romantic viticulturalist and chief winemaker until his retirement in 2020, nostalgia and odes to a bygone era – where humble beginnings have evolved into a relaxing ease and place of calm. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 23

Describing Woody Nook conjures up feelings of romantic nostalgia and odes to a bygone era – where humble beginnings have evolved into a relaxing ease and place of calm. 24 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

before passing the baton over to esteemed WA winemaker Digby Made in the traditional method it will replace their sold-out 2018 Leddin who, with his winemaking assistant Courtney Dunkerton, is adding a refreshing new energy to the label. Blanc-de-Blancs Anniversary Edition which spends three years It was an opportunity too good to refuse according to Leddin, who, on lees ($36) and according to Leddin, was one of the best after taking Swan Valley winery, Riverbank, to heady new heights receiving several industry awards, in addition to 20 years previously sparkling wines he’d tasted in Margaret River. Other varieties are at Lamont’s Winery - Leddin was ready for a sea change. on the rise too. “Neil (Gallagher) left the vineyard in pristine condition; the old (40 year) cabernet vines from the original vineyard are dry grown “Courtney and I are excited about producing some alternative and hand-picked from a site that is exceptional for cabernet,” says Leddin referring to the best-selling Gallagher’s Choice varieties and pushing the envelope a little; we would love to source Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP $65) and former International Wine & Spirit Competition and International Wine Challenge trophy winner. vermentino, albarino and petit verdot from external growers to add “We deliberately hold this wine back with at least five years’ to our small batch graciano and tempranillo. cellaring time before release,” says Leddin, who describes the wine as “classic Wilyabrup in every way; real cassis characters with “Currently our 2021 Fumé, a puncheon fermented sauvignon blanc, slight eucalypt notes in comparison to cooler climate cabernets which evoke more menthol-like characters”. typifies the direction we’d like to take the wines,” says Leddin. While the cabernet formula has remained untethered, Leddin has Remaining fully hands-on and in-house, adopting old school made welcome tweaks to the stable, including a gold medal winning (2021) rosé (an off-dry style made with about 5.5mg of residual sugar) and contemporary techniques – both in the winery and in the which collected a trophy at the 2021 Blackwood Valley & WA Boutique Wine Show, as well as modifications to the Killdog Creek Tempranillo vineyard - and producing wines that “people simply like to drink”, which is intended to honour the true Spanish style; bottled early after minimal oak maturation and more fruit-forward characters. is how this family-owned business has proven profitable over four During WA’s recent border closures, Leddin says the winery’s decades – and on any given day you will find one of the Baileys best-selling shiraz-grenache fortified, the Nooky Delight ($29) went down in history as the winery’s highest volume selling wine in the office, behind the counter or in the vineyard. ever sold in one calendar year during the winery’s 40-year tenure. Woody Nook wines produces around 7,500 cases per annum “This is the other wine I simply will not meddle with, aside from topping-up the barrels with fresh material each year,” says Leddin. and currently exports to the United Kingdom. The range Woody Nook chardonnay from the 2006 plantings, is showing includes the Folkloric Series (vibrant fruit-driven wines), the excellent promise according to Dunkerton, with accolades achieved in 2016 (97 points) and 2017 as Winestate’s Top 5 Heritage Series (single vineyard wines expressing true Margaret Chardonnay of the Year (Annual Edition), while a loyal following is building for the winery’s sparkling wines - this year’s anniversary River characteristics) and their experimental batches such as edition will be a vintage 2020 sparkling chenin blanc. the barrel fermented chenin blanc ‘Chenanigans’ and other limited release wines. Previous pages: Woody Nook entrance and Woody Nook dam. Above: Exterior of Woody Nook cellar door. Opposite page left to right top to bottom: The Baileys in the vineyard, Woody Nook team, Woody Nook Gallagher's Choice Cabernet Sauvignon, food from the Woody Nook restaurant and entry to Woody Nook. Visit woodynook.com.au | 506 Metricup Rd Wilyabrup Western Australia | Open 7 days. Family and dog-friendly. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 25

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TRIUMPH FROM TURMOIL DOC ADAMS PROVES THEY’RE JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED NIGEL HOPKINS Being water lovers, it provided the best of two worlds: - soil that was perfect for growing grapes, olives and almonds, and with TWO years of COVID 19 has seen a lot of disruption in the wine beautiful sea views and ocean breezes. The local bird life included industry, possibly none more so than that experienced by McLaren a colony of endangered yellow-tailed black cockatoos soaring over Vale-based winery Doc Adams Wines. the property, a feature that has been incorporated in the label of that 2020 shiraz. The uncertainty caused by the pandemic caused delays in renewing its cellar door lease in California Road at Tatachilla. The vines, mostly shiraz, were planted in 2000 and Darren’s Without a lease extension the cellar door – awarded Cellar Door of father, Bob, was vineyard manager for the next 18 years, after the Year in 2017 – was obliged to move to less salubrious premises which Darren’s brother Matt took over. Elizabeth Waters father, in Lonsdale, an industrial precinct closer to Adelaide than McLaren Henry Muller, helped plant and train the vines. As an engineer he Vale. Hit number one. was keen on collecting data and prepared meticulous handwritten notes on each vintage. He and Bob enjoyed each other’s company Hit number two was the ending of a three decade-long relationship and would sit up all night in the shed during harvest enjoying between winery owners, orthopaedic surgeon Dr Darren Waters homemade soup and a glass or two of a previous vintage. and his wife, general practitioner Elizabeth, and viticulturist and winemaker Adam Jacobs. It was the combination of their names The Doc Adams brand began in 2005 when Waters and that gave the winery its name. viticulturalist Jacobs, who’d helped tend the vines since 1998, entered into a partnership, formed a collective of 22 grape growers Hit number three is a hit of a different nature – despite the and started to make quality wines under the Doc Adams label. In turbulence of the past two years, with a new cellar door, new 2012 they won a trophy for Best Shiraz in the McLaren Vale Wine winemaker and sharper focus on its portfolio, Doc Adams 2020 Show with their 2010 shiraz, plus an additional 13 awards that year, Single Vineyard Shiraz has proved the winery has lost none of its putting Doc Adams on the map. lustre by taking out Equal Top in Category and five stars/98 points in Winestate’s McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, KI, Fleurieu and Their cellar door opened in 2016 and when the following year it Surrounds Wine Show. won Cellar Door of the Year from 40 competitors, it was the first time a newly opened cellar door had won the award. The Doc Adams story goes back to 1998 when Darren Waters and Elizabeth bought a neglected almond grove at Sellicks Hill. Cellar door manager Matt Johnston put the win down to, “a great They’d fallen in love with the land that was hugged by the tail end team, great relationships with local tour operators, B&Bs, and with of the Mount Lofty Ranges on the east and fell away gently towards the ocean on the west. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 27

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The Doc Adams brand other wineries in the area,” and he admits it was disappointing to began in 2005 when Waters have to walk away and start again in a “far from glamorous shed” and viticulturalist Jacobs, at Lonsdale. who’d helped tend the vines since 1998, entered into a Not that this seems to have had much effect on the winery’s clearly partnership, formed a collective very loyal clientele, given that the same sense of hospitality, wine of 22 grape growers and started tastings and generous platters have followed the move – with the to make quality wines under added bonus that the new location is closer to the city, almost a stepping-stone en route to McLaren Vale. the Doc Adams label. Johnston says that, with the break enforced by COVID 19, founding partner Adam Jacobs decided that after more than 30 years it was time for a career change to make gin instead of wine. Which led, of course, to consideration of the winery’s name. It was decided that, with Adam or not, the brand was now so well established and respected it would not change. And in all fairness, it was Adam who had helped create that respect. The move has also led to a more focussed winery, now using only estate grown fruit sourced from the Waters’ original block at Sellick’s Hill. In turn this has led to a smaller portfolio of wines, trimmed from about 23 – which Johnston says was really far too large for a small winery – to 12 still wines and two sparkling. Doc Adams once highly regarded tempranillo is no longer on the list, replaced by sangiovese. Most wines are now single varietals, with a GSM the only blend. Shiraz and cabernet sauvignon provide the core of the range, including a number of award-winning museum wines dating back to 2010, with a summer-friendly moscato and winter-friendly Doc’s Old Tawny rounding out the range. Winemaking, including that of the award-winning 2020 Single Vineyard Shiraz, is now carried out by the highly experienced Phil Christiansen at his Longwood Winery in McLaren Vale. It’s a small batch winery working mostly with quality small batch producers, where Phil has gained a reputation as the “godfather of garage”. If anything, Johnston adds, the disruption caused by COVID 19 hasn’t been such a bad medicine at all for Doc Adams Wines. It has emerged perhaps a little smaller and in slightly less salubrious surroundings, but leaner and more focussed – and with its reputation for top quality shiraz clearly very intact. Previous page 26: Doc Adams single vineyard shiraz in the cellar door, interior of Doc Adams cellar door. Top: Interior of Doc Adams cellar door. Opposite page left to right top to bottom: Doc Adams single vineyard shiraz in the cellar door, interior of Doc Adams cellar door. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 29

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IN PURSUIT OF PERFECTION WITH A DEDICATION TO QUALITY AND INNOVATION PARACOMBE WINES IS LEADING THE PACK DAN TRAUCKI carefully and sensitive to the environment with Paracombe being in the South Australian Government’s “Water Catchment Region NESTLED in the picturesque Adelaide Hills atop a 1.7-billion-year- Zone 1” – which is highly regulated and controlled. old plateau at 425 metres above sea level, Paracombe Wines is somewhat different to most wineries. It started as a result of As a result of forward thinking, emerging varieties have been tragedy, when a brave young couple, Paul and Kathy Drogemuller, very much in the forefront of the development of the Paracombe bought a burnt-out dairy farm following the devastating 1983 Ash wine range. Wednesday bushfires. With no viticultural experience they were talked into planting vines on their new property by Andrew Garrett. Today they are still “doing it differently” with innovative wines such as the Paracombe NV “A Trio of Pinot”, a unique and In the mid-1980s the South Australian Government sponsored a exciting sparkling wine made from pinot gris, pinot noir and “vine pull” scheme in order to reduce the amount of grape vines in the the much rarer pinot blanc. state, due to a wine glut at the time. While most people were ripping out grape vines left, right and centre including some of the oldest They also produce the typical wines that the Adelaide Hills vines in the state, the Drogemuller’s were busy planting their vineyard. are renowned for - riesling, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Currently they produce five Right from the word “go” Paul and Kathy have approached different styled shiraz wines including the flagship, Somerville things differently to the average Australian winery, because Shiraz, as well as a shiraz viognier. Paul always thinks “outside the square”. At a time when most Australian wine drinkers had not even heard of chardonnay (the In addition, they make an increasing number of exciting emerging first Aussie chardonnay release being the Tyrrells 1976 Vat 47 variety wines. The current range in white wines consists of pinot Pinot Chardonnay), they planted chardonnay, along with pinot gris; the very rare and sensational pinot blanc (which only has, noir, sauvignon blanc (again unheard of at the time), as well as so far, a dozen producers in Australia); they are also one of the cabernet franc (a totally unheard of “minor” Bordeaux red variety). first ten producers of pecorino (Italian white variety) in Australia, When the vines were mature enough, they made their first wines in viognier and their outstanding unique Grüner V5 (a superb blend second hand milk tanks, using a homemade basket press housed of the Austrian native grüner veltliner with riesling, pinot gris, in an old tin shed. gewürztraminer and a dollop of pinot blanc). Paracombe Wines was officially launched in 1992 just before In the red emerging varieties they have tempranillo plus a their daughter was due to be born. The brand and the winery have Reserve Tempranillo; montepulciano with a Reserve version as been growing ever since, with vineyard expansions, designing and well; nebbiolo and its Reserve companion; malbec, as well as the building a state-of-the-art winery, underground cellars and stunning cabernet franc from the originally planted vines which are coming cellar door. This progress and development had to be done very up to being forty-years-old. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 31

\"Paracombe Wines was officially launched in 1992 just before their daughter was due to be born.The brand and the winery have been growing ever since, with vineyard expansions, designing and building a state-of-the-art winery, underground cellars and stunning cellar door.\" 32 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

The quality of Paracombe Wines is not only recognised by their legion of regular customers, but also by the industry. In 2021, Paracombe were voted the “Best Producer over 100 Tonnes” at the Adelaide Hills Wine Show. Their wines also regularly score well in the various Winestate tastings that they enter from time to time, including in this issue scooping the pool with equal top in category, five stars/98 points for both their Somerville Shiraz 2013 and for the MacGillivray Shiraz 2013. Being environmentally aware and friendly, the Drogemullers have sought to minimize their footprint upon the land by taking steps to make their operations as sustainable as they can. To this end they have installed a solar panel system on the winery roof as well as setting up a water recycling program, to minimize winery inputs. The office, cellar door and function room are built of the highly energy efficient Eco Wall panels (concrete covered recycled polystyrene). In the vineyard, this philosophy means that the vines are all hand pruned, reducing the yield and the carbon footprint, in addition to which they use organic based fertilisers and composts while slashing the mid-row grasses as mulch directly under the vines to promote soil worm activity and water retention. Paracombe wines is a total family affair, with son Ben being the logistics and distribution manager, and daughter Sarah the customer relationship and events manager. As Paul said, “We must keep looking forward all the time as the world goes changing. We can’t get complacent and become a ‘me too’ operation.” The family commitment, the constant striving along with the use of new emerging grape varieties makes the Paracombe Wines’ future positive and very exciting. Another point of difference from most wineries is the fact that Previous pages: The Paracombe vineyard, the Drogemuller family. Paracombe Wines do not release their wines until they believe that Left: Drone shot over the Paracombe winery, vineyard and cellar door. they are ready for drinking. They have refused to bow to cash-flow, Opposite page left to right: 119 year old Somerville shiraz vine, Paul by the original and instead cellar their wines underground until they believe the basket press, circa early 1990’s, Winning Best Producer Adelaide Hills Wine Show Over wine is at its best, so that people get a chance to see the variety at its peak. This ideology coupled with the cool-climate ageability 100 tonnes 2021. of the wines means that the most current of the wines are several years old when they are first released. Below: Bike at the cellar door. Thus, the current release of the fantastic, Paracombe “The Reuben” (their Bordeaux blend wine with a smidge of shiraz added) is 2015 – seven-years-old in an age where even Penfolds Grange is released at four-years-old. Also the current release of their limited release flagship wine, Paracombe Somerville Shiraz, is the 2013 vintage, which is quite amazing and demonstrating their utter commitment to offering quality wines which are ready to be enjoyed at their best. By the way, the Somerville wine story is interesting in that it started when James ‘Jas’ Somerville was the first person to plant shiraz vines in the district in 1903. In 1997, the Drogemuller’s carefully transplanted these historic vines to their family vineyard where they have thrived and continue to provide top quality grapes for their fantastic flagship wine. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 33

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS THE first few months of 2022 has started One of Hong Kong’s favourite chefs, There’s little that compares to comfort in much the same vein to how 2021 Olivier Elzer had launched his new food down in the American South - the ended. Inbound travellers still have to restaurant Clarence in Central. Paying fried chicken sandwich being a very fine quarantine at their own expense in a tribute to classic French recipes example! Opened in the heart of Mong designated quarantine hotel, and as of and produce, Elzer and his protégé Kok, Graceland brings true Southern late January, restaurants have to close Simon So are putting their own spin hospitality to the Kowloon neighbourhood at 6pm with takeaway or delivery the on contemporary French cuisine. The with a table-load of hearty grub and very only options. restaurant is divided into four areas. stiff beverages. Leading the kitchen is In the Main Dining Room, you can Tennessee-native Jake Johnson, who Fortunately, most venues have adapted enjoy shared plates, speciality meats, fused Native American, West African, to offer free flow ‘dunch’, starting mid- and seasonal specials. Or, tr y the and European culinary influences in afternoon and ending at 6pm to make the unique Yakifrenchy menu, which features hefty, sharing-style plates. When you do most of the restrictions. And in a city which yakitori-style skewers such as Challans visit, press play on the city’s only vinyl is known for its bottomless brunches, being Duck Confit, Frogs Legs Pastis, Snails jukebox for 200 throwback tracks, and able to eat and drink at 3pm like it’s 7pm Burgundy, and Ratatouille and Confit pay special attention to the Chicken & certainly has its appeal. Potato Ratte. Last but not least, don’t Dumplings, which replicates the classic miss out on the Sommelier Room and The North Carolinian duo of thickened When the Black Sheep Restaurant group Lounge, with fine wines, dedicated food chicken soup and dough balls. do something, they certainly know how to pairing menus, and a premium selection do it well. Their new venture is a firehouse of cigars for you to enjoy. Graceland, Shop B, G/F, Lisa House, of Sichuan cuisine, situated in the upscale 12-14A Yim Po Fong Street, Mong Kok, surrounds of The Landmark’s Alexandra Clarence, 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Hong Kong. Phone: 6112 9449. House. Grand Majestic Sichuan has a Street, Central, Hong Kong. Phone: ‘mid-century’ feel to it and the kitchen is 3568 1397. presided over by Robert Wang, previously of Chilli Fagara with London-based writer and chef, Fuschia Dunlop as a consultant. Expect the usual fiery dishes such as wok- fried chicken with peanuts and red chilies, Pu’er tea-smoked duck with steamed buns and whole mud crab with fermented longhorn chilies. Grand Majestic Sichuan, Shop 301, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong. Phone: 2151 1299. Top: Dishes from Clarence restaurant. Left: Food from Grand Majestic Sichuan restaurant. Above right: Food and drinks from Graceland restaurant. 34 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

ALPINE VALLEYS HUNTER VALLEY MARGARET RIVER SingleVineyard Small BatchWines Available online All wines available in our online store @ goldmanwines.com.au [email protected] @goldmanwines

melbournegrapevine HILARY MCNEVIN MELBOURNE is waking up from a long vegan options are available for many of Owned by business partners Dharminder two years. The popups, deliveries, Zoom the dishes. (DJ) Singh and Raj Singh - who also own tastings and cooking classes that were CBD Indian restaurant, Gaylord - the pair created by the industry over lockdowns Gomi Boys Ramen, 692 Sydney Rd realised that most of their customers were have shown the never-ending versatility Brunswick VIC 3056. Phone (03) 9191 0008. travelling from Brunswick, Carlton North and adaptability of the hospitality industry and Carlton for their authentic Indian and now that doors are swinging open, Chef Jessi Singh and team Daughter-in- dishes and were often asked, “Why don’t there are some real gems feeding people Law have created an inclusive, welcoming you open closer to us?” across the city. space called Bar Bombay Yacht Club with a menu that takes broadly from across Asia, It led them to make the location change After building a following during the with flavours and inspiration from India, Sri to Nicholson Street and the community is lockdowns of 2020 and executing a Lanka, China and Malaysia. embracing it. successful Pozible campaign in 2021, Gomi Boys Ramen opened their first bricks- “The city is reopening, and Bar Bombay Both Raj and DJ see lots of potential in the and-mortar venue at 692 Sydney Road, Yacht Club is a celebration of that,” says Carlton North area and have designed Haldi Brunswick in late 2021. Singh, “Everyone is welcome. There’s as a relaxed dining room with the focus on something here for everyone.” being a good local Indian restaurant. Friends, chefs and business partners, Benjamin Reardon and Ryan Maher - Dishes of Butter Chicken Paté with “We are gaining great support from the the duo behind Gomi Boys - started their Fenugreek Roti and Ma Po Tofu Vindaloo in immediate community,” says DJ, “we really business during the first lockdowns of 2020 Lettuce Cups feature in the starters. Look want our customers to come in and relax, when the pair found themselves out of out for main courses of Tandoor-roasted have an easy meal, takeaway, whatever work. They created a range of heat-and-eat Mumbai Masala Corn with curry popcorn they need. It’s very casual.” ramen kits which they made and delivered and paneer and whole roasted Tandoori themselves. The kits proved so popular they chicken, but it’s the seafood Singh is The atmosphere may be casual but their nurtured a solid community who love their particularly excited about. approach to authenticity is anything but. slurpy hand-made noodles, house-made Before opening, Raj and DJ had a wall ferments and preserves. The chef started to sail during Melbourne’s temporarily removed to allow the installation lockdowns and is inspired by the coastal of the large tandoor oven for the house- The new venue - in what was formerly cuisines sailing affords. You’ll find whole chilli made naan and roti breads. “It wouldn’t fit Beat Box Kitchen - has 60 seats and the lobster with Sri Lankan sambal sauce; roasted through the door,” says DJ, “and the tandoor room, designed by Melbourne-based flounder with curry leaves; spicy squid with is a very important part of what we do.” Studio Wonder, houses a long wooden bar chilli oil butter and, a selection of ceviche. overlooking the kitchen and a large communal While ceviche isn’t Asian, the choice to The 30-seater serves dishes inspired table towards the back of the room. include it comes from Singh’s US connections from across India. There are the perennial and his love of Mexican and Baja cuisines. favourites - Butter Chicken and Beef Vindaloo Ramens include, Sardine Dashi Tsukemen- - as well as dishes such as Dal Makhani - cold noodles, hot dashi and pickled Port The drinks list is also wide reaching. A large black lentils, cooked down with spice and Philip Bay sardines; Milawa Duck Shoyu list includes wines from across Australia, New cream - and Goat Nihari, a slow-cooked spicy Ramen- rich with roasted duck breast, duck Zealand and Europe, particularly France goat curry cooked on the bone. Entrees of leg rillette and charred green onion, as well with a fridge dedicated to Champagne Crab Tikka - croquettes of fresh crab, cumin as an Almond and Mushroom Paitan Ramen and ginger - and Tandoori King Prawns featuring golden nugget pumpkin, abalone and a drinks-and-caviar served with rice are also proving very popular. and Lion’s Mane mushrooms, purple mizuna, trolley will be rolling at the spring onion and almond-enriched broth. 80-seater venue. The drinks list is built on local wines, with a smattering of Italian and French drops and There are small dishes, too - Chicken Bar Bombay Yacht Club, apart from the Indian brew Kingfisher on the Karaage with kewpie and lemon and 8 Flinders Ln, Melbourne beer list, all other beers are local. Hiyayako - chilled silken tofu with fresh VIC. Phone (03) 9654 tomato, lemon and eggplant treacle - and 6526. Haldi, 375 Nicholson St, Carlton North VIC 3054. Phone (03) 9349 2947. Haldi Indian restaurant, formerly of Moonee Top: Dishes from Haldi restaurant. Ponds, has relocated to Far Left: Ramen from Gomi Boys Ramen. Carlton North and opened Direct Left: Dish from Bombay Yacht Club, photo its doors in late 2021. credit: Michael Oulton. 36 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

Our premium offering of alternate Variety RRP varietals, Alejandro wines are Prosecco $21.00 inspired by the sun-beaten soils Fiano $21.00 of Southern Spain. The varieties Vermentino $21.00 grown for Alejandro adapt Lagrein $21.00 exceptionally well to the climate of Montepulciano $21.00 the Murray Darling which mirrors Durif $21.00 that of their ancestral homes. Saperavi $21.00 Alejandro wines are the perfect Carmenere $21.00 companions for all things tapas. { inspired by the sun-beaten soils of southern spain | Trade and NSW Distributor contact: Distributor contact: russellandsuitorwines Kim O’Hara Bouchon Wines & Spirits russellandsuitor Periscope Management 16 Prospect Street, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 Mob: +61 421 077 344 Tel: +61 07 3854 0407 [email protected] [email protected] Distributor contact: Distributor contact: Claret & Co | Scott Teasdale Unique Wine Solutions | Stephen Nankervis 13 View Street, Subiaco WA 6008 PO Box 106, Port Melbourne Vic 3207 Mob: +61 447 087 998 Mob: +61 414 388 046 [email protected] [email protected]

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS ADELAIDE doesn’t have a great record braised beef cheek in a rich red wine flavoured tempura batter – or a waygu beef in recent years as far as classic French sauce, paired with buttery pureed potatoes, burger with smoked pancetta from Hahndorf restaurants is concerned. lardons and roasted whole carrots. Again, in the Adelaide Hills. Perhaps the closest has been Hey Jupiter, in a great dish for cooler weather. But then the heart of Adelaide’s East End, where you it’s hard to go past the classic steak frites, But there are also more modern and can start the day with a very authentic croque with traditional flat iron steak served sliced adventurous dishes such as starters that monsieur or brioche French toast and end it with red wine jus, hand cut chips, a slice of include miso-glazed seared duck breast with steak frites (plus seared foie gras if you very garlicky butter and a leafy side salad. bao buns with kewpie mayonnaise, or local wish) or duck confit with duck fat potatoes. hiramasa kingfish crudo with fermented green The wine list could offer a broader choice chilli oil. Larger dishes include crisp-skinned For a while there was also Cliché in North but it’s adequate enough and still early duck and noodle salad, or a seafood plate Adelaide, which had a succession of chefs days, but overall Bistro François provides a with grilled Harvey Bay scallops, half baby and a fair reputation for its cooking, but welcome breath of French air and flair. Bistro lobster, crumbed fish and herbed scallop more significantly it was where chef Fabien François, 144a King William Road, Hyde potatoes. Maylands Hotel, 67 Phillis Street, Streit met bartender Nazza Falaschetti – Park. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Maylands. Open for lunch and dinner daily. and when Cliché closed they decided to Saturday. Phone (08) 7001 9210. Phone (08) 8362 1810. open their own French restaurant. Some years ago the 139-year-old Maylands Anyone familiar with European fresh food Before migrating to Australia, Streit Hotel, in Adelaide’s eastern suburbs, was markets such as Boqueria, just off Las ‘cheffed’ in restaurants around France and famous both for the Italian food served up by Ramblas in Barcelona, will enjoy the way that Falaschetti grew up working in his family’s the Clappis family, with Sonia in the kitchen, market dining is becoming more of a feature bars and cafes across San Benedetto Enzo out front and son Andy baking fabulous in the Adelaide Central Market, already well del Tronto in Italy’s Marche region. Their bread – and for the fact that it was the first acknowledged as one of the great fresh food combined skills and experience are now pub in South Australia, if not wider, to install markets in the world. on display at Bistro François, a skinny, an espresso machine on the front bar fed by simply furnished but congenial space with a dedicated water purification system due to Two of the market’s stalwarts, Mark outdoor dining in the heart of King William Adelaide’s chlorinated water. And of course, Gleeson and Ian Bernt, whose Providore Road’s restaurant precinct. there were no pokies. cake and pastry business has been a longstanding feature of the market, It’s deliberately not a posh-looking place, Then it entered a darker, more traditional recognised the opportunity for more high with chef Streit determined that his menu pub era, with pokies and standard pub quality, market stall-sized dining venues should be affordable in a casual setting: tucker until it was taken over recently by and nabbed Stall 76 on the northern edge “We’re trying to get rid of the image that the family-owned Matthews Hospitality of the market, which they’ve named SiSea. French food always has to be rich and Group, which has restored its focus on fancy,” adds Falaschetti. good food and wine, booted out the pokies Featuring signature dishes including Eyre and given the whole place a refreshing Peninsula wok-tossed mussels – including French classics feature most prominently makeover. a 1kg pot with chips and a free beer, a on the menu. Snails, of course, in the small terrific Mediterranean-style seafood soup, dishes, along with a twice-baked cheese The Clappis family, which went on to and a Spanish touch with bocadillos and souffle and duck and pork rillettes. But the create its own unique dining venue, Our tapas dishes, it’s been an instant hit. Weekly standout dish amidst the starters is a truly Place at Willunga Hill near McLaren Vale, specials include dishes such as crisp-skin excellent onion soup served in a deep would be very pleased with the result. salmon with sweet spiced pepperonata and mini tureen, topped with Swiss cheese on chargrilled ciabatta. All-day breakfast dishes croutons. This will be a very popular cool Designer Deb Barnes commented: “The include a range of omelettes. weather dish. hotel was tired and needed a facelift; nothing structural, purely cosmetic to smarten it If you’re lucky you’ll get a seat at the The larger, main course dishes start with up,” which she has done giving the place a counter overlooking the kitchen, but there a classic boeuf bourguignon of slowly somewhat retro, art deco vintage feel, through are nearby tables available. The wine list four distinct dining areas. is well-priced and local, with Sapporo beer on tap. SiSea, Stall 76, Adelaide Central More significantly the kitchen is led by chef Market, Gouger Street, Adelaide. Open Cristian Carbone, whose menu includes breakfast and lunch Tuesday to Saturday, the expected pub classics such as fish and dinner Friday. (No phone) chips – the fish changes according to what’s best in the market, given a twist with a gin- Top right: Maylands Hotel, Duck & Noodle Salad. Bottom left: Bistro Francais, beef bourguignon. 38 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

perthgrapevine BERLINDA CONTI WITH a resume spanning The Print Hall and Campari. Wines - The Corner Dairy is described as “a place Dining Room, Rockpool Bar & Grill and Tiny’s intended to complement where anyone from the beach to the burbs (among a swathe of other Perth institutions) the menu – keep focus on can relax, try new things… or stick to the – coupled with stints at Kangaroo Island’s international finds and iconic usual” - this accurate character assessment Southern Ocean Lodge and Capella Lodge Australian producers. underscores everything about this casual, at Lord Howe Island - it’s safe to assume that anything-goes neighbourhood wine bar, just that the food by Josh Gray, chef at the newly Any Dining, 26 Queen minutes from Scarborough beach. opened Any Dining restaurant in Perth’s Street, Perth. Hours: Tue CBD, is going to be pretty good. to Thu 11.30am–10.30pm, There’s good reason why foodies have Fri & Sat 11.30am–12am. ordained this 120-seater venue as one of the Curated around the concept of the Chef’s Bookings: anydining.com.au top spots to visit in 2022. Table dining experience, every mindfully Ever since this grand old dame was considered dish at this classy Queen Street resurrected and restyled under the tutelage While the bar focuses on Aussie natural haunt is finessed and presented direct of seasoned, third generation publican, wines and craft beers - including a Pet Nat to consumers via a galley kitchen where John Parker (The Standard Northbridge) - collaboration with Skigh Wines - the food, punters can choose from an exclusive historical icon, The Royal Hotel, has thrived. respectfully created by chef James Cole chef’s table menu at the 10-person counter While there are several zones to eat Bowen (formerly at La Rebelle) lends itself or stick with a-la-carte options via the cosy and drink among its richly decorated fit- to the best local ingredients that shape dining room with urban-luxe aesthetics out (Willi’s Bar and a huge wrap-around the menu. of marble tabletops and gunmetal blue veranda bar, among others), it’s the uber- banquet chairs. luxe, slightly quirky, yet entirely welcoming Find daily specials and share plates aesthetic of Fleur at The Royal which is including kingfish ceviche with smoked tiger’s The menu infuses piquant indigenous impressing diners alongside a consciously milk and Geraldton wax ($24) or barbecued flavours with familiar ingredients; think curated menu by chef de cuisine, Shane Freo sardines with a winning combo of house-made sourdough with wattle seed Middleton (Clarkes of North Beach & Romesco, almonds and pickled peppers butter; raw scallops with finger lime, nori Dinner by Heston Blumenthal). ($22), while the locally made stracciatella (by and Old Bay spice ($21); an earthy union Although seafood takes a fair slice of the Perth dairy La Delizia Latticini) served with of golden beetroot, apple kosho, sheep's limelight (yes, lobster mornay is back! - and yellow peach, basil and ancho-chilli dressing milk yoghurt and Geraldton Wax ($21), or the caviar menu is unmatched in Perth), ($20), is dream-worthy. meaty vegetarian wood grilled mushrooms there’s equal measure of vegetarian and and cauliflower, finished with miso and locally sourced, farm-to-plate produce on Top sellers include Stirling Ranges sirloin buckwheat ($32). Give the pork neck ($38), offer too, including Southwest lamb served served with peppercorn sauce and locally or dry aged sirloin with confit garlic, curried with eggplant puree, savoy cabbage and sourced oyster mushrooms from The egg and beef fat ($90) a go. pearl barley ($46); or the spiced honey Mushroom Guys ($47); a vegetarian classic roasted Wagin duck (serves two) – a of roasted eggplant, pearl cous cous salad An all-day four-course Feed Me menu fragrant feast paired with braised witlof and and burnt lemon yoghurt ($26) and their ($70) is an a-la-carte option for diners who à l’orange sauce ($96). Sunday hang-over cure - a hearty bowl of prefer chef’s recommendations or try the The 45-seater dining room (and a private chef’s hand cut pasta with kale, parmesan 5-Course Tasting Menu ($115) - a treasure- 12-seater dining room) also offers a Tasting and kombu butter ($31). trove of surprises including beef tendon Menu ($110) with a selection of chef’s with whipped egg, fish eggs and saltbush, recommendations of the day – complete The Corner Dairy, 260 Woodside Street, or blue swimmer crab with burnt corn, wild with a bespoke, Aussie-dominant wine list Doubleview. Hours: Wed-Thurs 4-late; Fri-Sun rice and lemon verbena. and globally inspired cocktails. 12-late. Bookings: beers@thecornerdairy. Keep an eye out for Fleur’s EOFY luncheon com.au Finish with yuzu cheesecake accompanied extravaganza (the venue opens exclusively by burnt carrot, chamomile and cashew. for mid-week lunches twice a year), as well ***Column disclaimer: some dishes may As expected, savoury snacks are available as a uniquely themed seafood dinner in change depending on produce availability. at the 40-seater bar equipped with eclectic late May and a truffle dinner in late July. wine and cocktail options hand-picked by And if afternoon tea with exquisite detail and Top left: Any Dining Golden Beetroot, Apple Kosho, drinks maestro and UK-born, Leroy Rawlins. turbo-charged charisma is more your flavour, Sheep’s Milk Yoghurt dish. then Fleur’s Afternoon Bloom ($65) is quite Bottom right: Interior of Fleur at the Royal. Try the Rhubarb Negroni – an endorphin- possibly one of the best in Perth. inducing combo of rhubarb, gin, vermouth Fleur at The Royal, 531 Wellington Street Perth. Dinner: Wednesday – Saturday 5.30pm – late, Saturday Afternoon Bloom 12pm & 2.30pm. Bookings: theroyalhotelperth.com. au/fleur/ May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 39

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING THE location of Ploos couldn't be more Meatlovers had the choice of grilled organic onion soup, duck liver parfait and plats du jour redolent of Sydney's history and modern chicken, biber salcasi (Turkish pepper paste) such as coq au vin and beef bourguignon. development. Housed in the renovated, and almond skordalia or honey-roasted lamb To top off the air-freighted from France feel, heritage-listed Campbell's Store with its rack with eggplant hummous and artichoke. there's classic bistro chairs, a ground floor convict-hewn sandstone interiors, Peter The sides on offer should be given serious wine bar and a playlist heavy with French jazz. Conistis' new harbourfront restaurant also consideration because they are treats in offers in-your-face views of the Sydney Opera themselves from the Aegean greens, grape Bouillon L'Entrecote, 6 Loftus Street, Sydney. House. The name means voyage in Greek molasses, olive oil and boukovo (hot paprika Visit lentrecotesydney.com.au. and the menu delivers by tracing the fabled flakes) to the fried pumpkin savoro, rose journey of Odysseus through the Greek vinegar and herbs. Merivale's Ivy precinct hosts some of the islands with a detour to the Middle East. CBD's most popular dining spots from Felix You can drop by for cocktails you won't to Bar Totti's. City visitors and workers can Conistis is the recognised Master of find elsewhere like Ouzo Fizz (ouzo, pink now add MuMu to their favourite go-to list. Modern Greek cuisine in Sydney through his gin, watermelon, mint and lemon) and Old Oliver Hua is in charge of the kitchen under popular Alpha restaurant and former foodie Fashioned Glyko (rye whiskey, creme de the guidance of Dan Hong, Merivale's man boltholes, Omega, Eleni's and Cosmos. Ploos banane and xocoloti - the artisan chocolate with the Midas touch at Mr Wong and Mrs G's. is definitely not a repeat performance of these made by the Partsioglou family of Melbourne). storied establishments but has carved out The eight-page wine list spans champagnes, Housed in a funky space designed by new territory and takes its inspiration from Greek spirits and wines such as the 2019 George Livissianis (The Apollo, Cho Cho Cyprus, Crete and the southern Aegean for Skouros Almyra chardonnay and Australian, San), there's plenty of seating at the bar its contemporary interpretations. New Zealand and Californian varietals. to enjoy the expertly made cocktails. But Biodynamic wines are also a strong focus. the terrific takes on Southeast Asian street The outdoor bar and alfresco dining area food favourites from Indonesia, Thailand, was buzzing when we arrived for dinner Dessert choices have a strong Greek thread Cambodia and Vietnam are the main attraction and felt even more festive with the brightly from Cretan-style ricotta tart to baklava with and there's plenty to choose from with 30 illuminated Harbour Bridge and Opera House raki ice-cream. But Ploos doesn't have to gild share plates. as a backdrop. You can also dine inside the lily. Whether you are entertaining visitors, amid the honey-coloured sandstone walls, out to impress business colleagues or just The star choice is prahok ktis, a Cambodian burnished wood and metal and green and want to relax in one of the most beautiful dish of spicy pork, fermented fish and pea burgundy marble detailing. We were offered settings in the world, few other Sydney venues eggplants. Or sashay through the other great a meze of kataifi pastry tart filled with whipped can compete. offerings from rock oysters with ginger, scallion feta, pastourmas (air-dried cured beef) and and Vietnamese mint vinaigrette to jungle curry candied eggplant as we perused the menu. Ploos, Bay 7, 7-27 Circular Quay West, The of pipis. Sommelier Robyn Fisher has come Rocks. Phone (02) 8231 4890. up with a wine list peppered with French, Conistis has sourced artisanal cheeses German and Australian varietals that can take including haloumi, cured meats, single origin Sydney diners have renewed their interest the heat of the spices and liberal use of chilli. Cretan olive oils and spices to double down on in French bistro food over the past couple authenticity. Even the traditional Greek salad of years. The success of Bistro 916, Porcine MuMu, 330 George Street, Sydney. Phone gets a makeover at Ploos via the Nissiotiki and others paved the way for Bouillon (02) 9114 7393. salad of heirloom tomatoes, aged feta, onion, L'Entrecote - a centrepiece of the city's cucumber and pickled samphire. newest CBD dining and shopping precinct, Top right: Dishes from Ploos restaurant. Quay Quarter Lanes. Haloumi cheese can be rubbery in the wrong hands but not at Ploos. Apart from the kataifi French business partners Johan tart, other tempting meze dishes include Giausseran and Vincent Ventura opened grilled haloumi, fennel glyko, lemon and isot Brasserie L'Entrecote in Pymble six years pepper, Aylesbury duck koupes, tahinosalata, ago and are also behind its south of the vissino and herb salad - a Cypriot version of harbour twin. The two-level, 70 seat Bouillon kibbeh filled with shredded duck and pine nuts L'Entrecote is decorated with artworks from - and Abrolhos octopus, carob, taramasalata France and the staff are mainly French, too. and caper shoots. All deeply flavoured and The wine list follows suit with listings from deceptively simple. Champagne to the Rhone Valley and the house beer is Kronenbourg. The main course listings are tightly edited and ever-changing. Two vegetable-focused In a tip of the hat to Relais de l'Entrecote, the offerings stood out on our visit - roast eggplant, famed Parisian steakhouse chain, steaks are imam bayildi, lentils and graviera (a Greek the main act. Sourced from Rangers Valley in cheese similar to gruyere) and spanakopita- NSW, there's a choice of small 200g grilled filled manti, dill yogurt and burnt butter. The sirloin cuts of Wagyu tomahawk for up to latter used the typical filling for the well-known three people. The meats come with frites and filo pie for the moreish dumplings enjoyed in a \"secret sauce\". Turkey, the Caucasus and the Balkans. The rest of the menu is a stroll down memory lane but really well done - charcuterie, French 40 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ to advertise if they wish, their awarded are then converted into a star rating wine’s review will be featured regardless Wines are invited from any producer, system for publication in Winestate. A of advertising. The judges’ decisions are provided that they meet the criteria gold means 5 stars or 4½ stars, silver is final and these are published according of the class being judged. The class 4, and bronze is 3 or 3½ stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising may be a regional, style or new release is taken or not. tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging system available for consumers to purchase, The judges although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with Winestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a using Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight will procedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical to the judges. The three expert judges expertise and often a marketing/retail taste the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes. without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges are this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, and Masters of Wine with vast international scores, and if there is dissension they will often purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be experience, and most judges have re-taste the wines and come to an evaluated where we believe that these experience at major Australian wine agreement. Scores are compiled using are of consumer or trade interest if these shows. We are also aware of expertise. the 20-point international system: gold have not been entered by the wineries. If we are judging a region, for example, is 18 and above; silver is 17 and above In order to produce the biggest and we will have a winemaker judge from and is an excellent wine; bronze is best wine magazine, Winestate includes that region because that person knows 15.5 and above and represents good advertising; however, this is fiercely the local style. We balance that with wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- independent of any wine tasting editorial a judge from outside the region and drinking wine scores 15 (but does not and we do not sell wines we judge. generally someone with broad and gain a medal). A bland but clean wine Wine companies are advised of the mature experience. scores 14. Below this score there are blind tasting results and it is their choice HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 98 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent Gold 96 - 97 Very Good Silver 18 - 18.4 94 - 95 HHHH High Bronze 92 - 93 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good Bronze 17 - 17.9 90 - 91 Good HHH 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate judges using the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. However, in the interests of the trade and our readers, we have also added points scores that reflect a comparative result. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 41

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN ADELAIDE HILLS Grünthal Brew also features the Grünthal Green House that can be booked for private functions and tourism experiences, including cheesemaking and future beer making classes; and half an acre of landscaped backyard overlooking the Onkaparinga River, where children can roam. GLAMPING NOT SO FAR AWAY GLAMPING fans have an Adelaide option with Rodwell Retreat in native bushland at Woodchester. Just an hour from Adelaide, Rodwell Retreat features a cosy tent, complete with dainty fairy lights and a queen-sized bed. A shower, toilet and kitchen are all provided on site, while a private cooking area includes a fridge, gas stove and dining spaces. The outdoor shower provides hot water while there is a private composting toilet. There is plenty to see and do in the area – with a range of wineries both in the Adelaide Hills and at Langhorne Creek. Prices start from $102 per night. See www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/52480642 DELIGHTFUL NEW BREW “We’re thrilled at becoming part of an STAY AT SEQUOIA FOR THE HILLS emerging cluster of high-quality venues that showcase some of the Adelaide THE Adelaide Hills is now home to SHEREE AND SAUL Sullivan, the team Hills’ finest produce. one of Australia’s most luxurious new behind Adelaide Hills cheese icon Udder accommodation offerings: Sequoia lodge. Delights, are full steam ahead with their “We’re confident our presence will opening of the Grunthal Brew on the strengthen the region’s reputation as a The $18 million project at Mount Lofty former Grumpy’s site at Verdun. premier hospitality tourism area, and the has been several years in the pipeline. appointment of Jon, Ricky and Michael is a Two of Adelaide’s young gun chefs - Jon great step in taking us closer to that goal.” Overlooking the Piccadilly Valley, which Kimber, and Ricky Mahajan - will man the is well known for its premium vineyards pans in the kitchen at the new gourmet Grünthal Brew’s menu features dishes and artisan producers, Sequoia features hotspot, while Hesketh Wines is operating including crunchy olives stuffed with 14 luxurious, sustainably designed a new cellar door on the same site. Heysen Blue cheese; karaage chicken, lobster mini brioche rolls and a grazing Experienced restaurateur Michael Johns board using regional patés and terrines. will be restaurant manager. Hesketh Wines has a selection of “These are further key steps towards Adelaide Hills varieties including pinot delivering on our promise of being one of noir, chardonnay and nebbiolo bianco. South Australia’s most exciting new food There will be two wine flights, with many and drink tourism destinations,” Sheree of the wines available by the glass, and all Sullivan said. by the bottle. 42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

travelbriefs suites that were built with the latest \"Now, bringing it closer to our whole team, The winemaking team is Stephen Dew in technology and comfort, alongside we’ll be able to be even more hands-on and (The Saint) and Reid Bosward (The natural artesian spring-fed stone hot build a stronger consumer experience.\" Scholar) from Kaesler Wines team. See pools, an infinity pool, new day spa www.saintandscholar.com.au and a campfire amphitheatre. The Guests will be able to enjoy the Aspect Gatekeeper’s Day Spa is in one of the Lounge for wines by-the-glass and by- Top left and right: Sequoia Lodge. estate’s original cottages and offers the-bottle. Middle right: Wines of Saint & Scholar. three treatment spaces. Impressively, Bottom right: Interior of Saint & Scholar. the 75sqm open-plan suites boast Also, inside is the main wine tasting Opposite page top left: Interior of Grunthal Brew. 180-degree views of the Piccadilly area- the Bugs, Beetles & Bees Bistro. Here Opposite page middle: Exterior of Grunthal Brew. Valley. visitors can learn more about the company's Opposite page middle right: Rodwell retreat. regenerative viticultural practices. Sequoia is led by Mount Lofty Estate general manager Jesse Kornoff. The two brands at the Barossa Valley Way location will be distinctively different. SMART MOVE FOR SAINT & SCHOLAR “We don’t think consumers will be too fazed tasting an Adelaide Hills wine in ADELAIDE Hills single vineyard wine Barossa, it’s common for brands to show producer Saint & Scholar launched a wines in their cellar doors from other pop-up cellar door at its sister winery in regions, and our Gumeracha vineyard is the Barossa. only 40 minutes from our winery, so it’s not much a stretch,\" says Dew. In 2019, Saint & Scholar, owned by Dural, which also owns and operates Saint & Scholar is a 50-hectare single Kaesler Winery, Barossa Valley, and vineyard first planted in 1999-2000. Saint Yarra Yering, Yarra Valley, set up the & Scholar’s first vintage from the vineyard Saint & Scholar cellar door attached to was 2017. Maximillian’s restaurant in Verdun. The pop-up cellar door will be housed in the previous home of the Kaesler Steakhouse that closed in 2015. To make way for the temporary tenants the interior has received a mini makeover, a paint job and some new contemporary furniture. “The Adelaide Hills cellar door was a great kick-start to our young brand,” says winemaker Stephen Dew. \"We were able to build a solid foundation for the brand during our time in Verdun, despite the lockdowns and limited interstate travel. May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 43

ADELAIDE HILLS 139 TASTED 86 AWARDED ADELAIDE HILLS There's gold in \"them, than hills\" and also silver and bronze! The OTHER WHITE Adelaide Hills region is enjoying some action as both a wine and VARIETALS & tourism region lately. Ignore the fires issue, wineries are pleased BLENDS to invite you to taste their wines. Here we saw excellent results with pinot, chardonnay, shiraz and cabernet, with a growing 13 TASTED interest and excellence in alternative varietals. 8 AWARDED SPARKLING d'Arenberg “The 2021 vintage has Artwine Ti Amo Pollyanna been widely praised but Single Vineyard 7 TASTED Polly Adelaide many of these wines Adelaide Hills 4 AWARDED Hills Sparkling were surprisingly low Arneis 2021 Chardonnay Pinot in acid,” noted one HHHH1/2 96pts A mixed group with Noir Pinot Meunier judge. “The best wines An interesting wine – the non-vintage NV HHHH1/2 96pts showed good varietal soft, rich and complex wines showing good A rich and complex style character and offered with a bouquet garni winemaking skills. with an ethereal peach good drinking across the of a nose and green A couple of the bouquet showing some board,” said another. apple palate with some aged wines were floral elements. Big bold savoury nuances. “Be disappointing. and flavoursome ripe Jericho Wines great with shellfish!” $35 citrus palate with zesty Adelaide Hills Barristers Block acidity. $36 Fiano 2021 Adelaide Hills HHHH1/2 97pts Riesling 2021 Tomich Adelaide Lovely nose HHHH 95pts Hills Sparkling reminiscent of pear Lifted perfumed lemon- Blanc de Noir NV skins and orange like aromas with floral HHHH 94pts blossom! The powerful notes and a lovely Rose petal fragrances palate offers a long and flavoursome and rich creamy palate mouthful of appetising varietal palate with a with pleasantly tart lemon/citrus flavours crisp finish. $30 peach flavours lingering with tight crisp acid. across the crisply Needs food. $27 finishing palate. $22 Amelia Burge Barristers Block Sparkling Australia Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Sparkling Blush Chardonnay Brut NV 2021 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 97pts Perfumed Turkish Interesting nose – Delight of a nose and delicate but complex simple citrus driven with hints of nougat and palate with a creamy a perfectly balanced end. $26 creamy palate with nice up-front sweetness. “A great sparkling – very French!” $22 JUDGES - DAY 1 Dave Matthews Andrew Locke Brian Miller Formerly Winemaker at Winemaker with Sales and Marketing Rosemount and Group Rosemount Wines Manager for Bendbrook Winemaker for Treasury since 1998. Previously Wines. Consults to several Wine estates. Vintages he was a winemaker Australian wineries and in Tuscany and California. with Orlando Wyndham was a member of the Judged in Australia and and De Bortoli Wines. Export Tasting Panel of the overseas. Currently He has completed Australian Wine & Brandy with Francois Freres vintages in the US and Corporation. Also, a former cooperages and owner Loire (France). In 1993 Brand Manager with Seppelt winemaker of Gargoyle he attended the AWRI Wines and stints with Wines. advanced assessment Richard Hamilton Wines and course. Mitchelton. 44 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

regional tasting Artwine The Real Tomich Woodside Berrigan Wines Common Ground PINOT GRIS/ Thing Single Vineyard Adelaide Shining Rock Adelaide Hills GRIGIO Vineyard Adelaide Hills Gruner Vineyard Adelaide Sauvignon Blanc Hills Albarino 2021 Veltliner 2021 Hills Gruner 2021 HHH1/2 92pts 11 TASTED HHHH 95pts HHHH1/2 96pts Veltliner 2021 A lightweight pungent 4 AWARDED Pristine herbaceous Sweet aromas of musk HHH 91pts varietal with good length bouquet with a lift lollies and honeysuckle. Floral perfumed and intensity of flavours Just three wines were of lemons and a big The clean minerally fragrances and tight in the ripe tropical awarded offering nice savoury palate with a palate is both rich and crisp peach and lemon spectrum. $20 drinking with flavour, dry crisp finish. “Go well dry with lovely spicy flavours. $21.95 Chain Of Ponds freshness and texture. with pork dishes.” $35 nuances and a chalky Black Thursday The judges noted that Paracombe Adelaide acid finish. $25 K1 By Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills there were lots of Hills Riesling 2021 Paracombe Gruner Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc borderline wines that HHH 91pts V5 Adelaide Hills Gruner Veltliner 2021 HHH 91pts did not have any faults Pleasant spicy citrus Gruner Veltliner 2021 HHH 91pts A cut grass and green but did not have quite nose with a lovely crisp Blend 2020 Lightly floral herbaceous pea nose with lovely enough flavour to make palate showing citrus HHH1/2 93pts nose with an interesting tropical fruit pungency the grade. and apple flavours. $23 A delightful peach rich and complex on the palate. $20 Fox Creek Wines blossom of a nose herbaceous palate. $25 Barristers Block Nepenthe Altitude Adelaide Hills with a lovely long and Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Pecorino 2021 lingering apple and pear Artwine In The Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Gris 2021 HHH 91pts driven palate. $25 Groove Single 2021 HHH 91pts HHH 91pts A hint of citrus lifts off Vineyard Adelaide A very interesting and A crisp acid driven wine the nose with a bone- Hills Gruner complex example of the with simple lemon/ dry palate that has Veltliner 2021 variety; all tropical fruit lime fruit characters. “A herbaceous complexity. HHH 91pts and cut grass. $26 seafood white!” $22 $26 Floral aromas and a Jericho Wines slightly sweet, Germanic Adelaide Hills Corryton Burge Artwine Spanish style palate. Complexity Fume Blanc 2021 Adelaide Hills Queen Reserve developing. $35 HHH 91pts Pinot Gris 2021 Single Vineyard Spicy oak aromas with HHH 91pts Adelaide Hills SAUVIGNON a palate brimming Lifted flinty floral fruit Albarino 2021 BLANC over with long rich oak fragrances and a zesty, HHH 90pts dominated flavours. $27 somewhat acid driven, Sweet and spicy citrus 15 TASTED Saint + Scholar palate. $28 aromas with a pleasingly 9 AWARDED Dewy's Nectar dry savoury palate that Adelaide Hills Paracombe Adelaide follows. $40 “A mixed bag with Sauvignon Blanc Hills Pinot Gris 2021 the best wines being 2021 HHH 91pts HHH 90pts Paracombe Reserve Mt Bera Boundless flavoursome and Floral herbal aromas and A soft, complex and Adelaide Hills Horizons Adelaide balanced but there an herbaceous driven nicely textured wine with Viognier 2019 Hills Gruner were also lean wines palate with savoury mild sweet and spicy HHH 90pts Veltliner 2019 lacking varietal character elements. $40 citrus characters $23 Distinctive apricot HHH 91pts and some with an oak Nepenthe Altitude aromas and a tart and Nicely evolved and component,” said one Adelaide Hills Vinteloper Adelaide tangy stonefruit driven complex style but still judge. Sauvignon Blanc Hills Pinot Gris 2021 palate. $42 tight, fresh and spicy. 2021 HHH 90pts HHH 90pts “Demands food!” $40 Fox Gordon Sassy A charming varietal Perfumed strawberry- GRUNER Adelaide Hills with pretty spicy melon like bouquet and a VELTLINER Sauvignon Blanc and citrus aromas and delicate apple/citrus 2021 HHHH 94pts flavours. $22 palate with a steely 8 TASTED The spicy nose is Fox Creek Wines finish. $29 6 AWARDED punchy, pungent and Adelaide Hills pronounced and the Sauvignon Blanc A solid class. “Are full-bodied palate offers 2021 HHH 90pts winemakers picking a big hit of tropical/citrus Delicate floral early that results in fresh flavours. $19.95 fragrances with simple wines, but also neutral straightforward varietal in flavour?” asked one Sidewood Estate fruit flavours. $23 judge. “But the best Adelaide Hills showed both flavour and Sauvignon Blanc balance.” 2021 HHHH 94pts A gentle passionfruit bouquet with a floral lift and a lovely delicate, slightly green, tropical- like fruit palate. $22 May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 45

ADELAIDE HILLS CHARDONNAY Corryton Burge The Sidewood Estate Nepenthe Altitude Vinteloper Adelaide Patroness Adelaide Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Hills Pinot Noir 2021 21 TASTED Hills Chardonnay Chardonnay 2021 Pinot Rosé 2021 HHHH1/2 97pts 13 AWARDED 2020 HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 92pts HHHH 94pts An excellent example A big savoury wine. A sound, complex and A lively, luscious and of a cool climate pinot A solid class! “Quite “Very more-ish.” Spicy traditional style with dry style with lifted red that is young, fruity and good fruit across the aromas showing some a subtlety of spicy fruits showing floral/rose spicy with spicy/meaty board but some suffered flintiness with freshness passionfruit, melons and petal nuances and some aromas and delicate fruit with either poor oak of stonefruits on the sweet oak. $25 lovely zingy acidity. $22 flavours supported by characters or were palate. $45 supple tannins. $37 over-oaked,” said one Taylors Jaraman Vinteloper Adelaide Paracombe Red Saint + Scholar judge. “The better Adelaide Hills Clare Hills Chardonnay Ruby Adelaide Hills Masters Adelaide wines had texture with Valley Chardonnay 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Rosé 2021 Hills Pinot Noir 2019 nice complexity from 2021 HHHH 94pts Lemon curd-like fruit HHH1/2 92pts HHHH1/2 96pts secondary characters.” A beautifully balanced characters here with Lovely nose, smells Developing spicy plum and complex wine with sweet oak providing of rose petals and has bouquet with a soft, Nepenthe Altitude ripe stonefruit and complexity and texture a sweet palate with mature and complex Adelaide Hills citrus fruit characters to the palate. $35 Turkish Delight/rhubarb- palate that is creamy in Chardonnay 2020 and restrained use of like flavours. $23 the mouth with spicy HHHHH 98pts oak. $26 Zonte's Footstep date-like flavour profile A very stylish and Cockfighter's Ghost Dusk Til Dawn PINOT NOIR and a lingering finish. $80 classy golden hued Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Tomich Hill Hilltop chardonnay with Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2021 18 TASTED Adelaide Hills a nutty/quince-like Chardonnay 2018 HHH 91pts 11 AWARDED Pinot Noir 2021 bouquet showing HHHH 94pts Nose has a lift of HHHH1/2 96pts honeyed notes and A nicely ageing honeysuckle, limes and Strong class overall A big spicy oak a well-defined, full chardonnay that is passionfruit with a lean with the best wines dominated pinot. Lovely flavoured, palate subtle, delicate and very savoury palate. $30 having good varietal perfumed/floral fruit more in the savoury stylish with great varietal characters, structure and fragrances with meaty spectrum. $22 fruit and deftly handled Haselgrove Staff elegance. “But there notes and great palate oak. $25 Adelaide Hills were too many wines weight and length K1 By Geoff Hardy Saint + Scholar Chardonnay 2020 with strong pressings with attractive varietal Adelaide Hills Masters Adelaide HHH 91pts and dark colours that is characters. $22 Chardonnay 2019 Hills Chardonnay Lean and savoury with not necessary with this HHHHH 98pts 2021 HHH1/2 93pts lovely, classy varietal variety,” said one judge. A delicate style that is A distinctively cool fruit characters; more true to its cool climate climate chardonnay. traditional in style. $35 Taylors Taylor Made origins. It is long, serious Creamy apricot aromas Adelaide Hills and classy and is still and an elegant palate d'Arenberg Pinot Noir 2021 fresh and lifted. Drinking with some great oak. The Lucky Lizard HHHH1/2 97pts beautifully right now. $80 Adelaide Hills “Light in colour – big in “Very, very good wine,” Chardonnay 2019 flavour!” enthused one said one judge. $35 HHH 91pts judge. This elegant and A soft and creamy full- stylish cool climate pinot Fox Creek Wines bodied peach/oak style. has beautiful varietal Adelaide Hills “Will be popular with fruit, delicate spicy oak Chardonnay 2021 many.” $22 and earthy notes. $25 HHHH1/2 97pts Lovely, honeyed peach ROSÉ bouquet with some secondary characters 4 TASTED developing. A very 2 AWARDED smart nutty oak palate with some attractive A couple of worthy stonefruit elements examples, more salmon pushing through. $23 than copper in colour and offering good fresh Zonte's Footstep drinking. Apple Betty Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2021 HHHH 94pts Some lovely toasty oak and creamy fruit fragrances and a light Chablis-like palate with oak tending to dominate for now. $25 46 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

regional tasting Berrigan Wines CABERNET & Shining Rock BLENDS Vineyard Adelaide Hills Sangiovese 7 TASTED 2021 HHHH 94pts 5 AWARDED A fine food wine; a mix of dried herbs, sweet A solid flight of cherries and red licorice true varietal wines. with earthy notes, “Surprisingly, some supple tannins and a dry here are quite bold and finish. $34.95 flavoursome, not what Paracombe Adelaide you would expect from Hills Cabernet Franc this region,” noted one 2017 HHH1/2 92pts judge. A well-made wine with a fragrant Wintergreen- like nose and an earthy/ floral palate, developing nicely. $32 Paracombe Adelaide Mt Bera Wild & Free Paracombe Adelaide Mt Bera Running Mt Bera Boundless Hills Pinot Noir Adelaide Hills Hills Malbec 2016 with the Cows Horizons Adelaide 2021 HHHH 95pts Pinot Noir 2018 HHH1/2 92pts Adelaide Hills Hills Cabernet A fragrant freshness of HHH 91pts Rich, meaty and Tempranillo 2018 Sauvignon 2018 plums and rhubarb with A young tannic wine that full-bodied with great HHH1/2 92pts HHHH1/2 96pts earthy notes. Velvety is complex and meaty savoury/umami-like An attractive, well- A fresh, stylish, smooth in the mouth with cranberry fruit-like characters. “Serve balanced and mature medium bodied and with a savoury flavour nuances. $30 with sizzling Mongolian food wine that is savoury well-balanced cabernet. profile. $25 lamb!” $32 and earthy with herbal Lovely blackcurrant–like Chain Of Ponds K1 By Geoff Hardy cherry characters. $30 varietal fruit with cedary Section 400 Adelaide Hills K1 By Geoff Hardy Jericho Wines oak, earthy nuances and Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2020 Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills a good tannic grip. $60 Pinot Noir 2021 HHH 91pts Merlot 2020 Tempranillo 2021 Sidewood HHHH 94pts Light spicy red berry nose HHH 91pts HHH 91pts Stablemate Adelaide A big, rich, firm and and lightly perfumed “A true merlot!” All ripe Spicy cherry cola nose Hills Cabernet 2019 complex grippy young strawberry palate with blackberry and black and nice leafy palate HHHH 94pts wine with aromas of fine tannins. $45 licorice with lots of rich with plum and cola Great cool climate style. plums and licorice and attractive oak. $45 flavours. $27 “Screams cabernet!” flavours of stewed OTHER RED Mt Bera Wild & commented one judge. fruits. $25 VARIETALS & TEMPRANILLO Free Adelaide Hills Still young and fresh Nepenthe Altitude BLENDS Tempranillo 2018 with spicy cassis varietal Adelaide Hills 6 TASTED HHH 90pts fruit. $20 Pinot Noir 2021 9 TASTED 4 AWARDED Slightly leafy spiced HHH 91pts 5 AWARDED plum nose and a tannic A young spicy cool “A nice combination tarry fruit palate. “Great climate varietal with “Nice to see an of varietal characters with tapas!” $30 lovely meaty/umami interesting range of and depth of flavour,” savoury characters. $22 alternative mid-weight agreed the judges. PRESS + BLOOM wines from this cool Adelaide Hills climate region with the K1 By Geoff Hardy Pinot Noir 2021 micro-climates a factor,” Adelaide Hills HHH 91pts said one judge. Tempranillo 2021 Spicy stalky aromas HHHH 94pts and a bright and lean Fox Gordon The A purple wine with cool climate palate with Dark Prince sweet, spicy and earthy a nice stalky sappy Adelaide Hills dark fruit fragrances note. $25 Nero D'Avola 2018 and a good varietal fruit The Kings' Creed HHHH1/2 97pts palate. A great food Wine Adelaide Hills A dry savoury food wine. $25 Pinot Noir 2021 wine with a great lifted HHH 91pts spicy berry bouquet and A lean amalgam of red medium bodied palate cherry fruit with loads of full of stewed blackberry vanillin oak. Needs time flavours and has long to settle. $35 lingering tannins. $29.95 May/June 2022 W I N E S TAT E 47

ADELAIDE HILLS Paracombe The Reuben Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc Malbec 2016 HHH 91pts Hints of spice on the nose with pretty, red/ black fruit flavours supported by sweet oak. $27 SHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDS 19 TASTED 15 AWARDED Paracombe Adelaide Excellent solid class of Paracombe Paracombe Hahndorf Hill Hills Cabernet shiraz varietal wines. MacGillivray Somerville Adelaide Adelaide Hills Sauvignon 2017 “Many here showed Adelaide Hills Shiraz Hills Shiraz 2013 Shiraz 2019 HHHH 94pts regional character with 2013 HHHHH 98pts HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts Lean tannic wine with vintage variations being A soft mature inky, tarry A complex, multi- Dark purple wine with menthol/green aromas a major factor. “These and earthy shiraz that faceted, velvety smooth bright lifted dark fruit and a long generous were concentrated and is evolved and complex and beautifully evolved fragrances and a soft sweet black cherry and complex with older yet still showing fruit wine with no hard edges. palate with plenty of smoky oak palate with wines showing that sweetness seamlessly It has dark, savoury mouth-filling spicy/beefy earthy notes. $27 these wines age well integrated with cedary and nicely matured fruit plum flavours. “A real Bendbrook Wines from the region,” said oak. Drinking beautifully characters with the acid winter red,” according Section 19 Single one judge, now. $50 still apparent. $70 to one judge. $45 Vineyard Adelaide Hills Cabernet Saint + Scholar Sauvignon 2015 Graduates Adelaide HHHH 94pts Hills Shiraz 2021 A soft, mature classic that HHHH 95pts is rich with varietal fruit Deep purple wine with and earthy smoky cedar lovely chocolaty aromas notes add complexity. and masses of sweet/ Drink now. $78 spicy fruit flavours with silky smooth tannins. 3-5 $30 Charnwood Estate in Mudgee is a small player kicking big goals with its Shiraz and Merlot. As small and boutique as wineries come, Charnwood demanded everyone’s attention when its 2009 Charlie’s Row Merlot won against some higher profile wineries in the 2011 Winewise Championship. Charnwood Estate is located in the Mudgee wine region of NSW; located on a historic property just 5 minutes from the centre of Mudgee and nestled at the foot of the hills in the delightful Cudgegong Valley. At Charnwood, we specialise in red wines and are particularly proud of our Shiraz which keeps going from strength to strength. For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee. ph: 0417 451 102 email: [email protected] www.charnwoodestate.com.au 48 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022

regional tasting K1 Middle Hill Sidewood Sidewood Estate SWEET Adelaide Hills Shiraz Stablemate Adelaide Adelaide Hills Shiraz WHITES 2019 HHHH 95pts Hills Shiraz 2021 2020 HHH 91pts A typical herbaceous HHHH 94pts A well balanced spicy 1 TASTED and somewhat grippy, Young and exuberant cool climate shiraz 1 AWARDED cool climate shiraz with baby! Has a vibrant that is stylish and still sweet lifted black fruits spicy cassis nose and youthful. $26 One lovely example of a and nice coconut-like bright sweet Ribena-like Nepenthe Pinnacle nice dessert style sweet oak. $25 flavours with subtle use Adelaide Hills Shiraz white wine. Worth Paracombe Adelaide of oak. $22 2019 HHH 91pts seeking out. Hills Shiraz 2016 Viveur Wines A firm grippy oak driven HHHH 94pts Adelaide Hills Shiraz wine with attractive red Hahndorf Hill Green A big traditional chocolaty 2021 HHHH 94pts fruit characters. Just Angel Adelaide Hills style with cool varietal A mulberry tree of needs more time. $35 Late Harvest Gruner fruit supported by savoury a nose with intense NOVA VITA Firebird Veltliner 2021 oak and dusty tannins. black fruit flavours; the Adelaide Hills Shiraz HHH1/2 92pts Still youthful. $27 essence of shiraz! The 2018 HHH 91pts A refreshing dessert acid is racy, the oak Beautifully aged soft, wine with lime cordial- subtle. $34.95 warm and “cuddly” like nose and gentle Tomich Woodside wine; an amalgam of sweet and spicy fruit Vineyard Adelaide sweet fruits and vanillin palate with a crisp finish. Hills Shiraz 2020 oak. $35 Serve over ice! $35 HHHH 94pts Bendbrook Wines Simple elegant and Goat Track Adelaide STAR RATINGS  somewhat restrained Hills Shiraz 2018 with dark berry fruits, HHH 91pts Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of hints of black licorice Great example of an excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. and savoury oak Adelaide Hills shiraz that All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry characters. $30 is soft, mature and very professionals and are compared in peer Bendbrook Wines satisfying. $38 classes by three judges. Goat Track Reserve CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Single Vineyard a major mail-order business. Adelaide Hills Shiraz CD Cellar door price. 2015 HHHH 94pts CDO Cellar door only. Mulberries and toasty SO Sold out. oak on the nose and a $N/A Price not available at time of printing. balance of blackberry  Contact information pg 87. fruit and gentle oak flavours. Plenty of life in RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). it yet! $78 BEST VALUE for $20 & under. Nepenthe Altitude For a complete list of what we tasted Adelaide Hills Shiraz please refer to www.winestate.com.au 2019 HHH1/2 92pts Leafy minty bouquet with a simple oak driven palate but in balance with red/black fruit characters. $22 AFOGR IYFOTU GIVE A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION! AD_Winestate Gift Sub QPH ND15.indd 1 Do you know someone who would love Winestate Magazine as much as you do? Call us today on +61 8 8357 9277 or visit www.winestate.com.au May/June 2022 W I N7E/09S/2T01A5 T11E:56:21 AM49

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN WESTERN AUSTRALIA SANDALFORD ACHIEVES It was Australia's first successful commercial are both newly built homes located on CATERING GOLD truffle farm - dating back 25 years - not peaceful rural properties providing an escape surprising as the climate in Manjimup is from the hustle and bustle but close enough SANDALFORD is known as one of similar to Perigord, with wet winters and to the region's famous wineries and beaches. West Australia’s oldest and best wine warm summers, which produce the most producers, but it also has a formidable flavoursome truffles. The Tem p es t in Q uind alup , n e a r reputation for its food. Dunsborough, is surrounded by bushland Truffle Hill was also the first Australian truffle and towering eucalypts, with a grassed Sandalford has collected the Catering company to export fresh black Périgord area for kids to play. Institute of WA Gold Plate Award Prix truffles to the global culinary stage, opening D’Honneur for winning best modern Australian up the Australian truffle season into Europe, The home's open plan design adds to its restaurant for the third year in succession. Asia and the Americas. spacious feel, and the living area's sliding doors connect to a deck and barbecue area. It was also named best restaurant in a The Manjimup region is the heart of winery, licensed dining regional and metro Australia’s fresh truffle industry and provides The comfy chairs on the balcony are ideal and, most significantly for the 2021 culinary chefs with Australian products at times of the for kicking back with a glass of wine. The team led by executive chef Alan Spagnolo, year European offerings are not available. Tempest is a modern minimalist home with it was named best new restaurant in polished floors and flashes of steel and timber. Western Australia. The range now extends beyond fresh truffles to gourmet truffle products including risotto The home is just a short drive to both Sandalford CEO Grant Brinklow said the and hot sauce that were created so that the Yallingup and Dunsborough and is pet four awards were an acknowledgment of the joy and rich aromas and flavours of truffles friendly. It sleeps 10 people in five bedrooms incredible effort undertaken by all employees can be savoured and shared all year round, and has two bathrooms. From $2795 for three of the Swan Valley Estate. not only during truffle season. nights in off-peak season. “These significant Gold Plate awards are Truffle Hill dates back 25 years and was Songbird is located among bushland in the a real recognition of the incredible effort, Australia’s first true commercial truffière. Yallingup Hills and is only a five-minute drive dedication, commitment, passion, work to the local beach. ethic, long hours, resilience and hard work If you are visiting you might want to book for generally from everyone who has been part a truffle hunting experience to discover how Highlights of this solar-passive property of our united efforts on a day in and out truffles grow and find mature truffles that are include a swimming pool and spa, both basis,” he said. ready for harvesting. looking out over the landscaped gardens and native forest. “These prestigious awards have certainly Fresh truffles are for sale from June to assisted Sandalford to build our reputation as August each year, while condiments, oils, gift Songbird can cater for two to four couples one of the leading wine tourism businesses packs and more are available all year round. with or without kids, and there is a games in Australia, and for our team members See trufflehill.com.au. room kitted out with a pool table, air hockey, the experience of winning in front of their dart board and TV. hospitality industry peers is one they will TWO NEW PRIVATE always remember with justifiable pride.” PROPERTIES FOR WA The spring-fed dam attracts local wildlife. Songbird sleeps 12 people (maximum of The Sandalford Bar and Restaurant is PRIVATE Properties, a fast-growing collection eight adults) in five bedrooms, with four open for lunch Monday through Sunday from of luxury accommodation options in the south- bathrooms. From $4395 for three nights 11.30am onwards, and for drinks and dinner west of West Australia, has added two new during off-peak season. on Friday and Saturday evenings until late. holiday homes to its portfolio. See www.sandalford.com. To find out more visit privateproperties. More than 100 luxurious homes situated com.au, or (08) 9750 5444. TERRIFIC TRUFFLES in some of the Margaret River region and South West's best locations are managed CAPE LODGE A JEWEL IN THE TRUFFLE Hill in Manjimup is a major drawcard exclusively by Private Properties. WA CROWN for gourmet tourists visiting Western Australia. New listings, The Tempest and Songbird, LATE last year, Andrew \"Twiggy\" Forrest - Truffle Hill is one of the longest-established Australia's second-richest man - and his truffle producers in Australia with a popular tourism offering as well as a range of gourmet products. 50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2022