NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 WINESTATE VOL 41 ISSUE 6 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE New Releases 149 tastedEMERGING VARIETALS RIESLING HAWKES BAY, NZ SAUVIGNON BLANC PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO NEW RELEASES WAR toWINE From futile fighting to finding salvation among the vines of Western Australia FUTURE FAVO U R IT ES OUTSIDE AUSTRALIA’S MAINSTREAM WINES AN EMERGING RANGE OF NEW VARIETALS IS TURNING HEADS AND STIMULATING PALATES Emerging Varietals 390 tastedPRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 November/December 2018 Vol 41 Issue 6 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Semillon & Blends • Emerging Varietals • Best Value Buys Under $20 • New Releases Riesling • Sauvignon Blanc & Blends • Pinot Gris/Grigio • Hawkes Bay (NZ)
OuaOrarrbueeuarsasitnsuernsuiasqvntureeaivqlaelsulelteerhressy as they are...WinestatePARTNER WITH AT THEVINITALY InternationalWine Exhibition7-10 APRIL 2019 | VERONA CONTACT PHIL HOFFMANN BUSINESS TRAVELFOR THE LATEST PACKAGE SPECIALS INCLUDING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATIONCONTACT US TO BOOK YOUR PLACEPhil Hoffmann Business Travel office
diverse.Ph 1800 220 029 Australia wide enquiries welcomedCorner Jetty & Brighton Rd, Level 2, Glenelg
Where it all began... Schubert Estate is located on some of the most sought-after pieces of dirt in the Barossa Valley - a special patch of five blocks terroir in Marananga in the Western Barossa. “The vines grow on red-brown loam over clay, ironstone and shale on a slightly elevated ridge of about 300 metres.” The terroir of the vineyard site leads to a strong expression of Barossa Valley Shiraz - wines that are opulent, concentrated and rich, packed with black fruit, chocolate and licorice aromas, expressive tannins and structured for aging. The wines have won many international awards. Today Schubert Estate has a “Five Star” rating for its Sentinel brand in Winestate magazine’s World’s Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge 2018. The flagship wines - The Goose-yard Block Shiraz and The Gander Reserve Shiraz also regularly receive high scores. www Discover our wines at: Adelaide City Cellar Door Open weekdays 9.00am - 5.00pm 26 Kensington Road, Rose Park SA 5067 Phone 08 8431 1457 Barossa Valley Cellar DoorOpen Thursday to Sunday, 10.00am - 4.30pm 261 Roennfeldt Road, Marananga SA 5055 Phone 08 8431 1457 www.schubertestate.com
Lindsay Wine Estate is the vision of Matt and Will, two mates who share a passion for Music, Art and Wine. Matt and Will have combined all three of those passions into “LWE” – a new modern-yet-rustic cellar door that boasts private tasting and entertainment areas, art history, plenty of space for the kids to run around, and did we mention a vinyl collection of over 4,000 records? The Barossa Valley is home to a vast array of Shiraz allowing for production of many distinct styles from everyday drinking wines through to Shiraz that can be cellared for up to 30 years.Address: 15 Vine Vale Road, Tanunda, SA, 5352Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8563 3858 www.lindsaywineestate.com.au
NO.292 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager E: [email protected] Coordinator Sophia Clements E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Erin LarkinQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinHONG KONG Lucy JenkinsADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalWinestate PublishingPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] OgdenLifestyle Media Vic Pty LtdPhone: 03 9696 9960Email: [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comEmail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright2018byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisherassumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 7
contentsNOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018FEATURES28 FUTURE FAVOURITES 28 There is a whole new world of 114 D AY S O F W I N E A N D M O R E R E G U L A R S wine out there to be had, ROSE´S enthuses Dan Traucki. Outside of 12 Briefs Australia’s mainstream wines an In New York, rosé now enjoys the 22 European Report with Sally Easton emerging range of sobriquet “Hamptons Gatorade” 24 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley new varietals is turning because of its widespread 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King heads and stimulating palates. In popularity in the summer destination 36 Grapevine what is our inaugural Winestate of the city’s elite, writes Elisabeth 44 Wine Words Magazine Emerging Varietals Awards King. The glow of rosé does not 46 What’s it Worth? (EVAs) held in conjunction with appear to be fading as this ever 48 Wine Investment & Collecting sponsor Winery Lane we tasted popular style continues to grow from nearly 400 new emerging and some strength to strength. \"re-emerging\" varietal wines. A fascinating tasting with wines from 113 Subscription Form all over including such weird and wonderful styles from assyrtiko to 114 Aftertaste shioppettino and everything in- between! W I N E TAST I N G S32 WAR TO WINE 54 Riesling 58 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends Out of the torment of war, Andy 62 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio Ferreira left his homeland of South 66 Emerging Varietals Africa and after a fortuitous holiday 84 Semillon & Blends found himself on the shores of 90 Hawkes Bay, NZ Western Australia, writes Mike 96 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases Zekulich. Initially gaining traction here through the emerging market of protea production and now after more than three decades down under, Andy is a recognised major WA wine producer with brands such as Butler Crest, Night Harvest and Cape to Cape. 32 100 New Releases and Best Value Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine Issue Number 292 For a complete list of what we tasted for this November/December 2018 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Cover photograph Iuliia Leonova8 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
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editorialTHE MAIN item of interest in this issue is our Inaugural feature tasting, the EmergingVarietal Awards (EVAs) that signify the boundaries of winemaking away from the so called“classic” varieties of cabernet sauvignon (and blends), chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz(or syrah). Of course other varieties could be included in this list depending on yourpredisposition. Welcome to a new era of wine!So we stuck our neck out to see what would happen when we called for samples of unusualvarieties such as montepulciano, aglianico, sagrantino, and nero d’avola, to mention buta few. There seems to be a great plethora of these varieties coming on board across thecountry. Whether this is because of the curiosity of winemakers wanting to try them for theirown interest or commercial advantage is unclear. We see a number of these appearing atcellar doors as a quirky alternative or at wine bars and hole in the wall restaurants as “pasta”lunch wines where being mid-weight is an advantage rather than a negative. We called theseEmerging Varieties as many are unknown by the general public and require hand selling undercommercial conditions. There was some overlap where we wondered whether some varieties(like tempranillo and sangiovese) could now be regarded as mainstream. Other varieties, such as durif, have been around for a longtime but were included as “re-emerging varieties,“ as they had somewhat disappeared from general view but seemed to be comingback. A bit of a grey area here. Don’t judge us too harshly. Our criteria was for anything that wasn’t a classic variety. The importantthing is that we discuss and review them and give exposure to all of the weird and wonderful that’s in the marketplace.I am pleased to report that we ended up with close to 400 samples of these intriguing wines. What was very good news wasthe overall quality of the wines presented. Just a few years ago many of these wines would be rubbish, where winemakers wouldtry to make big reds or big whites out of them, thereby destroying any varietal character involved. Then these wines would endup being blended into cheap concoctions where they effectively disappeared – varietally speaking. Fortunately we now havewinemakers who have worked on fulfilling the varietal promise that is available in the wine. We now have something worth tryingand comparing, that stands on its own merits. It was great to see some really strange varieties that 99% of the general publicwould have never heard of, let alone be able to pronounce! Names like Cortese, Aleatico, Assyrtiko, Refosco, Picolit, Clairette,Trincadeira, Garganega, Negrette and Schioppettino!We took these wines to large audiences at the National Wine Centre, Adelaide and also the RACV Club in Melbourne to great applause.People were amazed at the diversity and quality presented. It definitely opened the eyes of many and we look forward to doing it again.For those who are yet to dip their toe into these foreign wine waters, never fear. In this issue we continue to present a wide rangeof reviewed wines, including all varieties and all styles, from all corners of Australia and New Zealand, as we do in all of them.So for your pleasure this time we have a comprehensive lineup of white wine judgings, so you can select cool wines for the hotseason. These include complex semillons, spicy lemon and lime rieslings, punchy sauvignon blancs and crowd pleasing pinotgris and grigios. And of course our new releases judging covers the rest. For our Kiwi readers Michael Cooper and his team seek out the best wines from the premium Hawkes Bay region. We areYour wine,pleased to welcome him back into the Winestate fold and look forward to his insights into the New Zealand wine scene. I’d alsoour ports.like to welcome Erin Larkin, our new resident Perth Grapevine columnist. Erin is an avid foodie and regular radio and print winecommentator and WSET wine judge in Perth.As usual lots to try and lots to like. AustraliaCheers! Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813Peter Simic New ZealandEditor/Publisher Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666Major Sponsors and Supporters No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 11
briefsPAXTON’S NEW LOOK here at Sirromet for some time and Sanctuary by Sirromet is both in keeping with the natural surroundings whilst offering thatLEADING McLaren Vale organic and biodynamic wine producer extra level of comfort that couples, families and bridal parties arePaxton Wines has unveiled refreshed label designs for the first time looking for,” said Sirromet owner Terry Morris. Approval has beenin 15 years. Paxton has worked closely with Parallax Designs in given for 54 sites in total, scattered over the property which willAdelaide on the project, which had three core objectives - to give take shape over the next 12 months. On completion, Sirromet willthe labels a more current, fresh and lively look; clearly define the have invested over $10 million into the new tourism infrastructure.different tiers within the portfolio of wines and tell the Paxton brandand vineyard management story with a deeper message. “With our “We are concentrating on the first 18 sites for now to ensurepremium range, the single sites, we wanted the vineyard’s stories the product offering is perfected for our guests before we startto be the focus, hence why we put it on the front of the label,” planning further sites,” said general manager Rod Hill. Ratessays owner David Paxton. “And the bee has been our mascot will start from $280 to $480 per night (minimum two-night stay),in biodynamic farming for almost 15 years, back when we first including accommodation and locally sourced breakfast hamper.adopted these viticultural philosophies.” The site is home to a large population of wildlife, including Paxton has been cultivating family-owned vineyards since kookaburras, goannas, owls, a large variety of native birds1979, with viticulturist Paxton and winemaker Richard Fairbairn and resident wallabies that graze freely around and under theembracing organics and biodynamics and being fully certified decks as guests take in the views over a breakfast hamper orsince 2011. with a glass of wine as the sun goes down. The 18 spacious tents, comprised of 15 couples’ tents, two for families and one specially fitted out bridal suite, are made from durable double- layered all-weather canvas and offer a natural yet elegant decor in keeping with the surroundings. Interiors feature luxurious beds with top-of-the-line linen and bedding, bedside tables and lamps and reverse cycle airconditioning to cater for all seasons. Two large day chairs inside as well as outdoor table and chairs allow guests to relax and enjoy a Sirromet wine from the mini-bar. All tents feature en-suites with vanity, shower and toilet, and touches like hair dryers, irons and free wi-fi will also be available. The tents are TV-free. Guests can choose to enjoy their meals at any of the three on- site venues at Sirromet, including The Cellar Door Cafe for casual dining, Tuscan Terrace, an Italian inspired alfresco restaurant and Restaurant Lurleen’s, an award-winning fine dining experience. All are located a five-minute walk or mini-buggy ride from the Sanctuary site. Visit www.sanctuarybysirromet.com.GLAMPING IN STYLE GIN JOINT DOWN ON THE FARMQUEENSLAND’S first winery glamping experience is a 30-minute BIG Tree Distillery is the brand of gin-loving husband anddrive south of Brisbane at Sirromet Wines Estate. wife farming team Catherine Crothers Sanctuary by Sirromet features 18 safari-style glamping tents and Gary Jago, whoon a 8ha property among the natural flora and wildlife. Family- love good gin soowned Sirromet Winery, known for helping put Queensland wines much they decided toon the national map, says this is only stage one of the project. make their own. Big“We have wanted to create a unique accommodation offering Tree Gin is distilled in the Macedon Ranges region of Victoria, with the boutique facility on Jack’s Springs Farm at Newham producing a range of12 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
briefsfarm-crafted, small-batch Australian gins using rainwater from wine waiter offers a selection of wines to accompany the dishesthe farm, which also produces grass-fed lamb. ($75) or by the glass. The names included local heroes Bangor, Glaetzer-Dixon, Sinapius and Mewstone, along with a Niepoort Late Big Tree Distillery’s bottles are designed to be kept long after the Bottled Vintage Port with pudding. The feasts cost $95 per persongin is gone, with the artwork painted by local Macedon Ranges with the option of matched wines at an additional cost. The Oldartist Sarah Gabriel, with limited editions of each piece in the series. Wharf is at Macq01, 18 Hunter St, Hobart. Visit www.macq01.com.The range includes Elegant Dry Gin and Claude Navy Strength Gin- and you can sample and buy them at Woodend Farmers Market APEX TOPS THE RANGEon the first Saturday of each month and Lancefield Farmers Marketon the fourth Saturday of each month. A tasting facility on-site is NEPENTHE Wines has always tended to whisper quietly aboutexpected to be completed soon, but also look out for Big Tree’s its achievements rather than bellowing from the rooftops. But theVW Bug “Gin Bug” which will appear across the region as a pop- Adelaide Hills winery made a major statement when it launchedup bar and sales vehicle. You can also buy the gins at the Prince two new flagship $80 wines at Sydney’s iconic Quay restaurant.Wine Store in Melbourne. Big Tree Distillery, 307 Hennerbergs Rd, Guests flown in from around the country took inNewham, Macedon Ranges, or visit www.bigtreedistillery.com.au. views of the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge while sampling the new wines, and someA TRIBUTE TO MUTINY spectacular new dishes from chef Peter Gilmore. The Apex range comprises a chardonnay andIN 1806 a convict woman named Charlotte Badger was transported shiraz from the 2016 vintage, both sourced fromto Van Diemen’s Land aboard a ship called the Venus. During cool-climate sites and designed to showcasethe voyage Badger staged a mutiny, seizing control of the ship Nepenthe’s mission to capture regionality andand sailing off to New Zealand. She was a pirate, an adventurer, provenance in the glass.a woman treading her own path, and experienced Tasmanianwinemaker Greer Carland was inspired by her boldness and named The Apex Chardonnay is crafted from grapesher new wine label Quiet Mutiny in tribute to Badger. Carland’s grown at the Rathmine Vineyard site, whichfamily owns Laurel Bank Vineyard at Granton, which provided benefits from north-facing slopes that providethe fruit for the 2017 Charlotte’s Elusion Riesling ($36), while she excellent growing conditions, while the Apexhas also sourced grapes from a friend in the Coal River Valley to Shiraz hails from the Charleston Vineyard andproduce the 2017 Venus Rising Pinot Noir ($47). Carland is no is a classic cool-climate shiraz. Nepenthenewcomer to the wine industry; for many years she was a key player Wines’ senior winemaker James Eversat contract wine-making facility Winemaking Tasmania. “It is really said: “Nepenthe is one of the jewelsexciting after all this time to be able to produce wines under my in the Adelaide Hills, having beenown label - making them exactly the way that I want them to reflect founded in 1994. As one of the verythe fruit,” Carland said.Visit www.quietmutiny.wine. first wineries in the region we are proud of our heritage, producing premiumFEAST OF LOCAL FLAVOURS wines from established and emerging varietals that thrive in Australia’sDO you enjoy fresh seafood, cool-climate Tasmanian wines, shared premier cool-climate area. The Apextables and a view into an open kitchen? portfolio is a modern interpretation of what the Hills can achieve, embracing If so, you will almost certainly enjoy the new monthly Seafood the nuances of two premium vineyardFeasts at the Old Wharf Restaurant at Macq01 Hotel in Hobart. The sites and the unique characteristicskey is being willing to share and meet new people; everything else offered by our single varietal clones.”flows along quite merrily. The feasts coincide with the full moon and The Apex range is being rolled outwill be held al fresco over the summer months. A knowledgeable across top-end on-premise accounts, leading independents and through the Nepenthe cellar door. November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 13
briefsNOBLE DECISION to offer an organic wine experience to visitors toTHE De Bortoli family has released a special wine to mark the 90th the region,” said Jason,anniversary of its involvement in the wine industry. The milestone whose family also ownshas been commemorated by a limited edition of Black Noble, the Wundowie Wines. “Weworld’s only fortified made from botrytis grapes. Black Noble was have been making thesecreated De Bortoli managing director Darren De Bortoli in 1998 wines for many yearsin the New South Wales Riverina region, inspired by a wine his and have lacked a homegrandfather - and company founder - Vittorio De Bortoli produced for the brand where wein the 1930s. Black Noble is crafted from the same botrytised can meet our customerssemillon grapes harvested for the company’s iconic Noble One and present our wines.stickie, which was developed by Darren and his father Deen in We have been working with The Agrestic Grocer for a number1982. The limited-edition Black Noble is crafted from parcels of of years and this is a logical next step for both of us. There is nowine with an average blended age of 20 years in barrels. other business in the area that aligns so well with our philosophy of producing local products that are sustainable, organic and reflect “We have been setting aside portions of these parcels since 1982, the quality of the region. The Agrestic Grocer is a proud locavorewith a selection of exceptional quality blended to deliver structure, that presents these products within their straw bale brick building.strength and complexity in this limited edition,” says Darren. “A Their restaurant and live music are the whole experience.” Thelittle fermentation occurs before fortification when a grape spirit Pig in the House wines will be available for a structured tasting atis added to inhibit further fermentation. The wine is then clarified The Agrestic Grocer seven days a week from 10am-3pm. For $10and a touch of brandy is added for extra complexity before being guests will be presented with a hosted tasting of the five Pig in thetransferred into used Noble One barriques.” House wines. Danielle and Lucas Martin, along with partners Katie and Beau Braddock, are the team behind The Agrestic Grocer. “We The 90th Anniversary limited-edition Black Noble is presented are looking forward to adding these wines to our organic tastingin an elegant bottle and gift box, each marked with its own serial experience,” said Danielle. “Our beer and cheese tasting platesnumber. It can be purchased for, you guessed it, $90, at leading are particularly popular with visitors and this will add another levelliquor outlets across Australia. to this experience.” The Agrestic Grocer/Pig In The House, 426 Mitchell Highway, Orange.REFLECTING REGIONAL PRIDE QUIRKY BUSINESSPIG in the House Wines has teamed up with Orange locavore The TWISTED Gum Wines on the Granite Belt offer not only aAgrestic Grocer to launch a new cellar door experience. Jason and boutique cellar door experience but also quirky vineyardRebecca O’Dea established Pig in the House Wines in Cowra 17 accommodation. The cellar door offers single vineyard winesyears ago and the brand immediately began conversion to organic from a hand-tended, dry-grown vineyard and is in a classicpractices in 2001 after the couple moved into an old house that 1920s Queenslander with wrap-around verandas on threesits among the vines and once housed several free-range pigs.“We are thrilled to be working with the team at The Agrestic Grocer14 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
briefssides and views to the vineyards and hills beyond. The 3havineyard near the village of Ballandean is at an altitude of 900mand is farmed sustainably. Twisted Gum Cottage, which alsodates to the 1920s, is in the centre of the vineyard with lovelyoutlooks, three bedrooms and a toasty fire for the chilly localwinters. There are two bathrooms, a fully appointed kitchen plusdining area and the cottage can comfortably accommodate six.Twisted Gum Wines, 2253 Eukey Rd, Ballandean. Visit www.twistedgum.com.au.PERCY MAKES HIS MARK picholine olives. Ovolo Hotels’ group wine curator, Shun Eto, has curated a 100-strong list mainly of Mediterranean-style winesSYDNEY wine lovers have yet another wine bar in which to and varietals. The vibe is towards smaller producers (with thetaste an impressive range of local and imported vinos. Mister winemaker highlighted), including A J Hoadley, from La Violetta,Percy, a Mediterranean-style wine bar and kitchen housed Conor van der Reest (Moorilla), Mike Aylward (Ocean Eight)in the heritage-inspired designer boutique hotel Ovolo 1888 and Vanya Cullen (Cullen).Darling Harbour opened in August. Named after Percy Ewart, aformer wool classer at the original woolstore who also made his Many of the wines are offered by quartino (250ml pours) andmark (literally) by etching his name in the sandstone building, there is a good selection of wines from Italy, Spain etc, althoughMister Percy offers both a menu and wine list inspired by the none from Portugal or Croatia. There is a de rigueur sprinklingarc of countries surrounding the Mediterranean. The former of natural wines, including Radikon.19th-century warehouse fronting Murray St, Pyrmont, will beopen every night from 6pm and will seat up to 60. Leadingchef Justin North has collaborated with Ovolo Hotels andhead chef Luca Guiotto (ex-A Tavola, Catalina) to develop acoastal European menu showcasing Mediterranean flavoursand techniques. It includes a selection of skewered snacksor pinxtos, small and larger share-style dishes and Australianartisan cheeses such as Holy Goat and Pyengana. Signatureplates include citrus-cured hiramasa kingfish with horseradishyoghurt and pinxtos such as manchego cheese, prosciutto andwine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 15 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E
briefsFOODIE PRECINCT TAKES OFF BEST OF AUSTRALIAN PINOTKENSINGTON St, with a wide range of restaurants, cafes and IT is farewell to the Mornington Peninsula International Pinot Noirbars, has quickly emerged as one of Sydney’s hippest new dining Celebration and hello to Pinot Celebration Australia. The first Pinotprecincts. While the suburbs may be snoozing early in the week, Celebration Australia will take place from February 8-9 at theKensington St’s eateries and drinking holes are doing a roaring new RACV Cape Schanck Resort on the Mornington Peninsula.trade. Award-winning Automata and lively Kensington Street Social Pinot Celebration Australia will be a biennial event hosted by theare among the star names, but gourmets will also find plenty of Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association. The new event will aiminterest at chic Sicilian-themed Olio and the hip Eastside Kitchen to offer pinotphiles the chance to enjoy a huge selection of pinotand Bar. With a post-industrial chic theme, Kensington St in noir from around Australia and the world, with a two-day scheduleChippendale comprises part of a former brewery building with a of panel discussions, structured and walk-around tastings, wineryrange of warehouse-style eateries, converted heritage cottages visits, one-off events and meals prepared by acclaimed Morningtonand 11 hawker-style outlets on Spice Alley. There are 12 different Peninsula chefs. Ten Minutes by Tractor owner Martin Spedding isrestaurants, four bars and a couple of cafes as well as the much- the chairman of the 2019 Pinot Celebration Australia. “For anyonevaunted Old Clare Hotel. The precinct is the creation of Dr Stanley who loves pinot noir, this event is the perfect wine weekend - anQuek and is part of the $2 billion Central Park redevelopment - opportunity to gather with some of Australia’s top wine producers,Sydney’s largest mixed-use project featuring apartments, offices, experts and media to taste a selection of some of the best pinot noirsretail and eateries. Dr Quek had a dream to create a community from around Australia and the world, and to participate in a broadand Kensington St forms the heart of this vision with its edgy, but range of sessions and lively discussions, in a relaxed and welcomingsafe atmosphere. Olio features tasty Sicilian cuisine that uses environment,” he said. Tickets and accommodation are pitched atolive oil from chef-patron Lino Sauro’s family farm in Sicily, and the higher end of the market, but throughout the weekend guests canhas a wine list almost completely comprised of Sicilian wines, taste over 100 pinot noirs and to meet and converse with winemakerswith a good range of wines available by the glass. Down the and industry leaders. Visit www.pinotcelebration.com.au.stairs at Eastside Kitchen, a spectacular Fire and Ice dessertplatter is a major drawcard. Part meal, part performance art, this CELEBRATING 150 YEARSis highly recommended for anyone on a romantic date. Visit www.kensingtonstreet.com.au. THE 2013 vintage of Australia’s iconic single-vineyard wine - Henschke Hill of Grace - is one of the smallest vintages in the wine’s history after a difficult, dry vintage. Released on September 3, the new Hill of Grace marks 150 years of Henschke family winemaking in South Australia. Stephen Henschke describes the 2013 vintage as “extremely low yielding and exquisitely beautiful”. “While every vintage of Hill of Grace is a limited-release, 2013 and the following 2014 vintage are among our smallest harvests,” fifth-generation winemaker Henschke said. No Hill of Grace was made in 1960, 1974, 2000 and 2011. The Hill of Grace “Ancestor” vines are 158 years old and were planted pre-phylloxera opposite the historic Gnadenberg Church in the Eden Valley. The first Hill of Grace single-vineyard shiraz was made by fourth-generation vigneron Cyril Henschke in 1958 and the wine has since become a global icon, sought after by collectors around the world. “I can’t think of any other single-vineyard wine that had its first vintage from centenarian vines and has continued to be made for another 55 years,” said Henschke. A book, Hill of Grace: 150 Years of Henschke under Southern Skies, by Fiona MacDonald and published by Hardie Grant Books was released on September 3 along with the new vintage and will retail for $59.95. The 2013 Henschke Hill of Grace Eden Valley Shiraz has an RRP of $825. BARNES UNVEILS HOTEL PLANS THE Yarra Valley, one of Australia’s most popular wine regions, is set to get a new luxury hotel. Entrepreneur Martyn Barnes has signed a management agreement to badge his new Yarra Valley property as voco, the IHG group’s new upscale brand. The voco Yarra Valley bills itself as “the first globally-branded, upscale hotel16 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
briefsin the Yarra Valley, creating a destination for guests who are looking water-fed indoor heated pool, private beach access, guest loungeto eat, sleep and everything in between”. The 170-room new-build with open fire and ocean views, locally sourced craft furniture,hotel will feature an on-site gin distillery, lavender farm, mirrored private art gallery and kitchen garden. Guests are invited to wandermaze, an amphitheatre cut from natural ground and a providore the farm tracks with a picnic hamper or savour local delicacies.that serves and sells local Yarra Valley produce. It will also feature Local wines, ciders, beers and spirits are available from thelarge conference and meeting facilities, gym, bars that draw on honesty bar. Room rates range from $360 to $850 per night and athe best of their surroundings, an on-site family restaurant and two-night minimum applies. All room rates include access to theentertainment for children. The building will be a quirky design that mineral pool plus an artisan breakfast hamper supplied by Annie’swill stand out, rising to six storeys at one end and tapering to one Kitchen. Visit lonretreat.com.au.storey at the opposite end, and will also include 20 cabins for anintimate Yarra Valley experience. The hotel will be situated at thegateway to the Yarra Valley on the Maroondah Highway, less than anhour from Melbourne’s CBD. IHG currently has 48 hotels operatingunder four brands in Australasia, including InterContinental, CrownePlaza, Holiday Inn and Holiday Inn Express, with another 22 in thepipeline, including properties under the Indigo and voco brands.BACK IN THE BAR TRADE CHEAPER OPTIONLAUNCESTON, Tasmania’s second city and the gateway to the Tamar MOST wine and food lovers visiting big cities would prefer toValley, greeted a new wine bar in June. spend their money on outstanding wining and dining experiences than an expensive hotel room. That has seen a trend away from Tucked away off Brisbane St is Bar Two offering a wide range of city centre lodgings to the fringes of Sydney and Melbourne,Tasmanian wines, gins and produce. Bar Two is owned by Nathan where hotels are often a lot cheaper. Winestate contributor WinsorCairns, whose family runs the Tasmanian Organic Wine company in Dobbin reports his latest discovery is the comfortable Metro Hotelthe Liffey Valley. Cairns had long dreamed of a “little hole in the wall Aspire, tucked away in a very quiet street in Ultimo - a two-minutebar”. “I thought it was just a good time to open a little hole in the wall, stroll from the Powerhouse Museum, a few blocks from bothfriendly, fun, neighbourhood kind of bar that just happens to have a Chinatown and Broadway. And situated next to a quiet little park.good selection of Tassie wine,” he said. “I come from a bar background No traffic problems, nice refurbished rooms with private balconiesand I’ve always wanted to do a bar. Wine should just be about fun, - and zero noise. This is largely a residential area. Reception staffgood food, family and friends just hanging, and drinking without feeling are friendly and helpful, and there is a restaurant/bar, functionintimidated or being bored.” Cairns said he spent a “long, long” time rooms, tour desk and two computers and a printer for guest usevisiting small vineyards across the state to stock the bar. “Every wine in the lounge area. All rooms have complimentary tea and coffeehas a story,” he said. Bar Two is on the ground floor of 47A Brisbane making facilities, hairdryer, iron/ironing board, in-room safe, workSt, Launceston, under Cinco Passiones, a bar which offers single malt desk, fast free wifi and digital TVs with YouTube/Netflix access.Tasmanian whiskeys and handmade cocktails. Security is good with reception manned 24 hours a day.LON LOADED WITH LUXURY Even better news is that I’ve seen double/twin rooms online starting from $103 per night to $149 - which is excellent valueTHE Bellarine Peninsula welcomed new luxury accommodation for Sydney, where you can easily pay triple that amount in anwhen Lon at Point Lonsdale opened in October. The property average hotel. Metro Aspire Hotel, 383-389 Bulwara Rd, Ultimo,was previously known as Lonsdale Views. It sits perched on a Sydney; phone (02) 9211 1499 or visit metrohotels.com.au/hotels/hill on the edge of Point Lonsdale with 360-degree views of The metro-aspire-hotel-sydney.Heads (the entry to Port Phillip Bay), the lighthouse, Ocean Groveand the Bellarine. Lonsdale Views was closed in 2017 and hassince undergone a complete transformation. Set on 80ha of ruraland conservation land, Lon features seven luxurious suites anda mineral spa. The suites are spread throughout the sandstoneretreat, each individually designed. Key features include mineral November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 17
briefsMITCHELTON JOINS MGALLERY Australian first, travel by train to Passing Clouds and enjoy lunch at the Dining Room inclusive of a glass of sparkling wine on arrival, andTHE recently opened Mitchelton Hotel & Spa, a $16 million hotel a four-course share plate lunch with matching Passing Clouds wines.on the banks of the Goulburn Valley in Victoria, has joined Accor The initiative has been led by Passing Clouds co-owners CameronHotels’ boutique MGallery by Sofitel network. Located in the and Marion Leith, two go-getters in the Victorian hospitality industry.spectacular surrounds of Mitchelton wine estate, the 58-room hotel “In just two short years since we opened the Dining Room at Passingboasts a four-treatment room day spa, restaurant, a 20m lap pool Clouds, visitation to the estate has increased exponentially and theand extensive banquet and meeting facilities. Designed by award- demand for the small space we had available for cellar door visitorswinning architects Hecker Guthrie, the hotel’s interiors complement was being pushed to its limits,” says Cameron. “Our new cellar doorthe property’s existing Robin Boyd structures. All guest rooms boast allows visitors to take in the whole Passing Clouds experience in afloor-to-ceiling windows with views of either the Goulburn River or fabulous new, modern, inclusive, open space. We couldn’t be happierthe vineyards. Chief Operating Officer of AccorHotels Pacific, Simon to know visitors will now get the full experience when they visit us.”McGrath, said the group was thrilled to be adding to its boutiquehotel collection. “The Mitchelton Hotel & Spa is a beautiful property Visit Spa Country Railway for timetable and fare information aton spectacular grounds and we are thrilled to be welcoming the www.dscr.com.au/fares-and-times.php. All seating is non-reservedhotel into our network; it will be the 10th MGallery by Sofitel hotel and bookings are not required. Tickets are available from the ticketin Australia,” he said. “There is a lot to see in the Goulburn Valley office at Daylesford railway station prior to departure. For lunchregion and with the addition of such a quality hotel it will no doubt bookings phone (03) 5348 5550.help attract more visitors to the region, boost local tourism andsupport the domestic travel market.” Andrew Ryan, managing SPARKLING FUTUREdirector of the Mitchelton property, said: “The Hotel and Day Spa issomething that we wanted to develop early on with our acquisition EFFERVESCENCE Tasmania,of the estate. It has always been the missing piece in the puzzle the only wine festival in Australiafor Mitchelton. Goulburn Valley and Nagambie have so much to devoted purely to sparklingoffer, we have high hopes that the addition of the accommodation wine, has unveiled an expandedfacility will help attract more visitors to the region and boost local program for 2018. With a full-daytourism.” Visit www.accorhotels.com. program of events in Hobart to kick things off, Effervescence willMAKING TRACKS be held from November 11-18. Now in its fifth year, EffervescenceVISITORS to Daylesford can now hop on the train to Passing Clouds Tasmania has grown from anwinery, enjoy tastings, or maybe a meal, and then join the train industry and producer-focused event into a key consumer experiencefor a return journey. As part of a collaboration between Passing for lovers of the luxurious and indulgent. The event is now so popularClouds Winery and Spa Country Railway, co-funded by Regional that in previous years most events sold out well before the festivalDevelopment Victoria’s Wine Growth Fund, Passing Clouds now started, but organisers have risen to this challenge by expandinghas its own platform just 6km down the line from Daylesford. The the program and offering more opportunities to indulge. FestivalPassing Clouds platform at Musk was officially opened in July. The organiser David Milne, from Josef Chromy Wines, said: “Our focushistoric Railmotor will depart from Daylesford Market every Sunday this year is on putting sparkling wine at the centre of everything thatat 9.45am, 11.00am, 12.15pm, 13.45pm & 15.00pm. The trip takes is great about Tasmania. We want to bring people together to enjoyabout 17 minutes to arrive at Passing Clouds platform at Musk then the finer things in life, and hopefully learn something along the way. Atravels on to Bullarto. The last train to depart the Passing Clouds core part of the festival is its focus on development of the Tasmanianplatform returning to Daylesford each Sunday is at 3.18pm. An sparkling wine industry and we will definitely be maintaining thatexclusive Passing Clouds train+wine+dine package is on offer every focus this year - in the context of everyone having a good time. OurSunday. For $290 per couple you can leave the car behind, and in an sparkling wine degustation events and our master class programs are extremely popular, so this year we have created more food and wine experiences to cater for the demand. We are also expanding further into the south of the state, with a full day of Effervescence events in Hobart. We have also introduced some new Meet the Maker intimate experiences, and of course the centrepiece of the weekend, the Grand Tasting, will be returning.” The event is once again presented by Tyson Stelzer, multi-award-winning wine writer, television presenter and speaker. Visit www.effervescencetasmania.com. AUSTRALIANS FIGHT BACK AUSTRALIAN winemakers have vigorously defended their use of the grape variety nero d’avola following calls from Italy for sale of the wines in Europe to stop. The push is being driven by the Sicilians who claim18 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
briefsthe grape as their own, and say it is protected by EU and Italian law P.J.P. Single Vineyard Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon, “was tobecause it denotes a geographical place, in this instance the town of celebrate Wrattonbully. Pepper Tree is known for its Hunter ValleyAvola in Sicily. Australian makers disagree. “My view is quite simple,” wines but we’ve put a lot of energy into this region.”says Paul Dahlenburg, who makes nero d’avola off his Beechworthvineyard under his family’s label Eldorado Road. “If it’s a grape variety The wine’s price tag of $175 also makes it one of the mostwhich it is, then we should be able to use it.” Tony Battaglene, chief expensive wines produced solely from Wrattonbully fruit. The wineexecutive of the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia, says winemakers is predominantly cabernet sauvignon with support from merlot andsuch as Dahlenburg are in the right. “We wouldn’t allow people to use shiraz, and was produced following an astounding four separateavola unless it is in the compound term to describe the grape variety,” picks of the winery’s best vineyard and four individual fermentations.he says. “We don’t accept that nero d’avola is the GI (GeographicalIndication) because that is the grape variety. Avola is the GI.” The final blend was created after a taste-off to identify the 10 best barrels. The debate between Italy and Australia over the use and labelling ofItalian grape varieties in Australia is a long one. In the past, friction has TARGETING COPY CATSarisen over moscato and prosecco. Battaglene believes the Italiansare timing their call for a ban of Australian nero d’avola in Europe to HENSCHKE Wines, the maker of one of Australia’s greatest reds,coincide with the renegotiation of the free trade agreement between Hill of Grace, is doubling its efforts to stop would-be counterfeitersAustralia and the European Union. “They (the Italians) are trying to put and copy cats operating around the world. It follows the discoverypressure on us,” he says. of a wine sold in China as Hill of Glory. “We have seen people using our intellectual property and coming up with a similar name,” saysKOSHU DREAM STILL ALIVE Stephen Henschke. “And we found out that it had a connection back here in Australia so we have trademarked it.” The Henschkes haveONE of Australia’s leading makers of chardonnay and pinot noir is also adopted protective measures on the labels and bottles they use.persisting with his dream of one day growing the Japanese whitegrape variety koshu, despite recent setbacks. Phillip Moraghan, who “We have all sorts of little tricky things on our labels,” he says. “Welast year sold his Curly Flat vineyard in the Macedon Ranges, has been also have DNA and only we know what the DNA is and where it ismaking koshu in Japan but so far has hit a brick wall in sourcing the (located on each bottle).” Wines for export use the imported Vinolokgrape for his next venture here. He and wife Dr Rika Shimo are looking glass closure exclusively, and the company’s prestigious Hill of Gracefor suitable vineyard land in the Macedon Ranges to plant pinot noir closure has the name imprinted on to it. “Vinolok will be a challengeand white varieties, including koshu. Virus-free koshu plants were to copy,” he adds, with hope.sourced for the project from University of California, Davis (UC Davis)but died in Australian quarantine. The couple has since learned that COLLABORATING IN COONAWARRAUC Davis is no longer supplying the grape outside the US, followingnew requirements for export, including that material be certified free A COONAWARRA pioneering force and ancestor to two of the region’sof all known pathogens which cause disease, regardless of whether most famous wine families is the name behind a rare collaborative winea pathogen is already present in the destination country. “We have not project. William Wilson, a Scottish gardener who arrived in Australiagiven up on producing koshu in Australia,” says Dr Shimo. Meanwhile in the 1850s and advised Coonawarra’s founder, John Riddoch, onthe couple will continue to make koshu in Japan. Wines tasted from the best land to establish vines, has been called one ofthe 2014, 2015 and 2016 vintages made by them reveal that the grape the unsung heroes of Australian wine. “We are not takingshould have a bright future, if or when it is finally planted in this country. anything away from Riddoch, says Dan Redman, of Redman Wines, Wilson’s great, great, great grandson,FIGHTING FOR A REPUTATION “but he (Wilson) looked at the soils and made positive comments about their ability to produce wine. He wasSINCE losing its 2001 legal challenge to be included within the inspirational.” The collaborative wine project betweenCoonawarra wine boundary, neighbouring region Wrattonbully has Redman Wines and Balnaves of Coonawarra sawstruggled to be acknowledged for the quality of its wines. Pepper parcels of Balnaves Cabernet Sauvignon andTree Wines owner John Davis believes big wine companies are Redman Shiraz blended. The inspiration for theusing Wrattonbully fruit but rarely put the name on their labels, style were the great Coonawarra “clarets” or redholding back the region’s reputation. With his decision to release blends of the 1940s and ’50s.a super-premium cabernet sauvignon from the region from theoutstanding 2016 vintage, he says he hopes to correct that. “One “It’s our history but the story is still alive,” addsof the considerations we had,” he says of the newly-released 2016 Redman. For Kirsty Balnaves, the Balnaves business manager, the collaborative project seemed natural given the closeness of both families. “I don’t know of many collaborative projects such as this,” she says. “Our lawyer even asked if we wanted a joint venture agreement drawn up,” she laughs. The answer was a resounding “no”. “We’d just get together, make some decisions and then go out to lunch.” The WW 2016 Shiraz Cabernet retails for $300 a bottle. November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 19
nzbriefswhat’s happening in the NZ wine sceneEMMA JENKINS MWDOMINANT POSITION the apprenticeship is expected to help producers upskill, reward and retain existing staff, improve health and safety measures,NEW Zealand wines are continuing their inexorable rise in the increase productivity and assist with succession planning. Asultra-competitive UK market, with further gains in both the on and New Zealand Winegrowers CEO Philip Gregan says: “Exports areoff-trades. Data from the 2017 Accolade Wines Wine Nation project trending upwards - we are the third biggest exporter into the USA(an annual survey of 8000 UK regular wine drinkers that has been after France and Italy - there’s never been a better time to pursuerunning since 2006) found NZ to be the only country with an on- a career in wine.”trade volume increase, posting a 7 per cent gain. It appears drinkersare aiming for quality alongside quantity, too, with value increasing JOBS GO BEGGING13 per cent. NZ surpassed Spain as the on-trade’s highest priceorigin, with an average of $8.50 for a 175ml glass. The bonus news THE Marlborough wine industry’s job shortage woes may befor NZ producers appears to be that consumers are branching out exacerbated by its current “rockstar” economy, which has beenbeyond Marlborough sauvignon blanc, not only to pinot noir but also growing at the fastest rate in more than a decade, a time periodenthusiastically exploring pinot gris, riesling and chardonnay. In the in which it has withstood not only drought, a boom and bust cycleoff-trade, NZ was no slouch either, with a value gain of 12 per cent; exacerbated by the GFC, major earthquakes and significantthe next closest was Argentina at 6 per cent. While some of the value industry consolidation. The regional annual GDP growth of 4.4rise can be attributed to increases in taxes and forex movements, per cent sits well ahead of the national GDP average of 2.7 perthe overall trends are confidence boosting for NZ’s exporters. cent, and its unemployment rate of 2.8 per cent is the lowest since 2009 (it is estimated there are currently around 900 unemployedJUDGING UNDERWAY persons in the Marlborough region). Competition for workers is fierce: not only is the wine industry contributing steady growth,AT the time of going to press, the inaugural New Zealand Wine of but tourism, construction, horticulture, forestry and aquaculture arethe Year Awards judging was getting underway. The New Zealand all showing positive gains. The common lament from businessesWinegrowers-run wine show replaces the Air New Zealand Wine across all sectors is that they simply cannot get enough workers, aAwards, long regarded as the preeminent national wine show, and developing barrier to further growth. The region’s labour shortagethe Bragato Wine Awards, a grape grower and vineyard-focused is compounded by a housing shortfall which impacts recruitment ofshow. With the Air New Zealand sponsorship coming to an end both permanent and seasonal workers, plus an ageing population.after 31 years, NZ Winegrowers decided a “refresh” was in order, With approved housing consents jumping by a third in the last year,combining the two shows to capture “the very best components accommodation shortages may be on their way to being addressed,of the previous competitions, with a focus on rewarding the grape but attracting people to what is essentially a small provincial regiongrower and their single vineyard wines, as well as championing remains a challenge. Perhaps Marlburians are simply too goodNew Zealand wine excellence on a larger scale.” The Awards at keeping their year-round enviable outdoors lifestyle, surfeit ofwill be chaired by highly regarded and experienced Hawke’s Bay world-class wines and proximity to both the stunning Marlboroughwinemaker Warren Gibson (previous chair of the Air New Zealand Sounds and the vibrant city of Wellington a closely guarded secret?Wine Awards), with Marlborough winemaker and previous Bragatochair Ben Glover as his deputy. CLEAR SKIES AHEAD FOR CLOUDY BAYWORKER DEMAND UP ICONIC Marlborough winery Cloudy Bay began making pinot noir in Central Otago in 2010, cementing its expansion in 2012 with theWITH NZ’s wine industry on track to reach $NZ2billion in ($A1.8b) purchase of Northburn vineyard in the Cromwell Basin, as well asannual exports by 2020, keeping up the numbers of qualified skilled leasing part of Felton Road’s Calvert Vineyard in Bannockburn. Itsworkers is a key focus. To this end, New Zealand Winegrowers flagship Te Wahi Pinot Noir is a blend from the two vineyard siteshas joined a collaboration between the horticulture and viticulture and with the recent opening of its new Central Otago cellar door,industries along with the Primary ITO (which manages trade fans of the wine will now be able to visit the Northburn Vineyard inapprenticeships), the Ministry for Business Innovation and style. The Cloudy Bay Shed is located on the eastern side of LakeEmployment and the Ministry for Social Development in launching Dunstan, the striking tasting room offering the full range of Cloudya new apprenticeship aiming to increase workforce size and over Bay wines to taste or enjoy by the glass with light snacks alongsidetime, recruit future industry leaders. The wine industry is now NZ’s spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. Private tastingsfifth largest exporter, contributing over 20,000 jobs to the economy, can be arranged as can vineyard tours - by land and air. The shed’sbut there are notable skills and worker shortages in several wine rustic yet sleek style echoes Cloudy Bay’s Marlborough cellarregions, including the nation’s largest, Marlborough, which is door, which has long been a popular destination for those keen tostruggling with both low unemployment and an ageing population. visit one of the region’s original and most emblematic sauvignonThe new three-year apprenticeship in horticulture production blanc wineries. The shed is open 11am-5pm, seven days a weekcan be begun at any time of the year and will provide on-the-job in the summer, and Tuesday to Saturday in the winter months. 45training and practical skills aligned with regional industry needs. Northburn Station Rd, Cromwell, www.cloudybay.co.nz.As well as recruiting new employees to the industry, the launch of20 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
The Rees Hotel, Luxury Apartments and Lakeside Residences; surround yourself with bespoke luxury with a unique, True South, New Zealand flavour and breath-taking Queenstown location. Luxury Accommodation • Award Winning Food and Wine • Unrivalled Lakeside ViewsThe Rees offers a variety of spacious and luxurious accommodation options including 60 Hotel rooms, 90 Apartments and five private,3 bedroom, 3 bathroom Lakeside Residences, all with terraces, showcasing spectacular views across Lake Wakatipu to the alpinepanorama of the Remarkable Mountain range.True South Dining Room is The Rees’ award winning restaurant, headed by Executive Chef Ben Batterbury. True South is sophisticated,elegant dining and offers mouth-watering monthly menus, with daily tweaks and seasonal changes, to showcase Ben’s signature style.The Rees has developed a private wine cellar, with one of the most comprehensive collections of fine wine in the Southern Hemisphere.Our Bordeau Wine Cellar offers both breadth and depth, combining the fine wines and vintages of France, Italy and Australia with thefamous producers of New [email protected] • www.therees.co.nz • +64 3 450 1100
europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWSPARKLINGS BUBBLING ALONG NICELYTHE global interest in sparkling wine an iceberg of German sparkling wine preserves varietal flavours because theappears to be effervescing unabated. production, and this is arguably where process is typically short and withoutProsecco, for sure, is driving growth, the greater potential lies. long lees ageing - which donates bread,but opportunities also exist from other brioche, almonds, honey, toastiness etccountries. Added to which predictions are In total Germany produces about 370 (though tank method can be long andalso for high quality to be one of the factors million bottles of sparkling wine. A chunk leesy); while traditional method (thinkpushing growth forward. of this is fairly basic quality, typically made champagne) does the lees-ageing thing using imported raw material from Spain, and typically would use fairly non-aromatic Possibly with an eye to communicate France or Italy, for example, made by the grape varieties, so the leesy, autolyticthis prize, an organisation in Germany tank method (charmat) and is consumed characters take top slot.created a classification for its members’ domestically. As it happens, the Germanssparkling wines earlier this year. The are prodigious consumers of bubbly, The distinction becomes rather moreVDP (the Association of German Pradikat getting through 302 million bottles in 2016, important in Germany because of theWine Estates) is a voluntary group of which is about 3.5 litres each. preponderance of semi and aromatica sizeable chunk of Germany’s high grape varieties grown in the country.quality producers. It has introduced a As it happens, the Riesling with long lees ageing is a lovelysparkling wine (sekt) classification for thing, so you probably want to know if you’reits members, which mirrors the pyramid Germans are prodigious buying a tank method (varietal character)hierarchy that already exists for its still or a traditional method (lees ageingwines. The pyramid roughly follows the consumers of bubbly, character combined with a riesling imprint,Burgundian model: from regional - village because riesling’s personality is strong).- 1er - grand cru. All must be made by getting through 302 And riesling is the main grape variety. Thisthe traditional method, and all must use one grape variety, does after all, accountestate grown fruit. At the bottom Gutssekt million bottles in 2016, for nearly a quarter of Germany’s entireand Ortssekt have a minimum 15 months vineyard area. If not from riesling, thenon lees (so three months longer than that which is about 3.5 from traditional local varieties in a region,required for NV champagne), while Erste notably silvaner. But pinot blends are notLage and Grosse Lage must have 36 litres each. unheard of - pinot blanc (weissburgunder),months on lees (the same as for vintage pinot gris (grauburgunder), pinot noirchampagne). Additionally, these latter Data is quite tricky to come by, but the (spatburgunder). And some top producerstwo categories are to be single-vineyard Verband Deutscher Sektkellereien (VDS - also make classic chardonnay, pinot noir,sparkling wines, which is different from German Sekt Federation) has said about pinot meunier blends.virtually all champagne. 10 per cent of sparkling wine consumed has been made by the traditional method. This is where Germany’s unique selling Such a classification has an appealing Why is it important to distinguish tank from point for sparkling wine lies - semi-logic for the VDP, which, in total account traditional? aromatic grape varieties, and mainlyfor a high quality - 3 per cent of annual riesling, with or without lees-ageingGerman crush (still and sparkling). Sparkling wine style and flavour can characteristics. But one of the challengesHowever, whatever minute fraction be significantly influenced by production is that all German sparkling wine isthe sparkling wine production might method. In briefest, caricaturist essence, labelled “sekt” regardless of method ofrepresent, it is but the tiniest tip of tank method (think prosecco) better production, so knowing what you’re buying22 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
is tricky. Winzersekt on the label is an fully embedded into the nation’s wine T EWINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTINGimportant clue - these are solely traditional appellation laws. Zacherl said: “Withmethod bubblies made by independent this three-tier quality system based on HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIEestate producers from fruit grown on protected origin and tested quality weand bottled at their own properties. They created a completely new category of 95 95 95have a minimum nine months on lees (the Austrian sekt in Klassik, Reserve, andstandard minimum across the EU apart Grosse Reserve, with clear and strict POINTS POINTS POINTSfrom champagne and franciacorta). The quality and production rules.“VDS states about 3 per cent of Germany’sproduction is winzersekt, so roughly 35 While Klassik can be made by tankmillion bottles. That’s already twice the or traditional method, Reserve andsize of franciacorta production, yet they Grosse Reserve are exclusively traditionalare little known outside of Germany. method. The minimum time on lees increases with each rank. At 9 months There’s been a similar push for quality Klassik has the standard minimum acrossin the sparkling wines of neighbouring the EU (apart from champagne andAustria. But that’s about the only similarity. franciacorta); at 18 months, Reserve isThe scale of production is tiny. However, the same as franciacorta NV (and threethis is precisely Austria’s vinous raison months longer than champagne NV), whiled’etre - it is a niche producer and it Grosse Reserve at 30 months, is also theaccentuates the assets of that position. same as for vintage franciacorta, and sixAustria’s entire wine production (still and months less than for vintage champagne.sparkling) is only about the size of that of The comparative benchmarks are there forTuscany in Italy. all to see. And the difference - creating single vineyard cuvees at the top, Grosse Benedikt Zacherl, managing director of Reserve, rank, which has only just had itsthe Austrian Sparkling Wine Committee inaugural release.estimates the country’s consumptionof Austria-produced sparkling wine is It’s too soon to say how well-receivedvery roughly 7 million bottles, tank and is the new hierarchy, but ambitions aretraditional method combined. But the lofty. Zacherl said: “to be realistic I thinkpotential to develop the country’s premium we should try to get approximately 30sparkling wine had already been spotted per cent market share of production forsome years ago. It used to be that Austrian Austrian sekt (Klassik, Reserve, Grossesekt could be made by tank or traditional Reserve styles) within the next few years.method, with some similar grape variety The long distance goal is at least 50 perstylistic variables as in Germany, but cent.” So … 3.5 to 4 million bottles into awithout any useful market differentiation. new, strictly controlled category? That’s about the scale of English sparkling wine In 2015 the committee announced a currently. Nothing wrong with being nichenew quality hierarchy to sit at the top of and quality. Austrian sparkling wine, one which is November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 23 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_2F7/A0.4in/2d0d151 2:34 pm
winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY GROUNDS FOR GROWTHTHERE is an excitement throbbing through The Barossa Grounds project is a the current drought conditions. TheseSouth Australia’s Barossa Valley, a vibrancy collaboration between Barossa Grape restrict yields and produce wines that areand reinvigorating feeling that expresses and Wine Association, South Australian more elegant, medium bodied with higheroptimism for the future of the region. For soil scientists (such as David Maschmedt) natural acidity. Shiraz will show more redmany years, the older generation growers and viticulturalists and State Government’s and black cherry with an herbal edge.have been passing the mantel over to the Department of Primary Industries. Taking the Mount Edelstone vineyard asyounger generation of farmers. Barossa a classic example, the Henschke familyis renowned for its growers and while The first differentiation between the describe the vineyard characteristicsnumbers have decreased there are still Barossa zone soils and wines is the as “sage leaf and black pepper”. A fewaround 550 registered in the region. marked difference between Barossa Valley producers make wines from both regions. and the Eden Valley. Sons of Eden, for example, produce two The maturity of the region is showing wines; an Eden Valley and a Barossaas this new generation either select old Eden Valley provides Valley shiraz called Remus and Romuluspractices that make sense to continue respectively. Remus shows white pepperor adopt new ideas firmly based on the fragrance and lifted and blackcurrant leaf, while Romulus hasscientific research. This ranges from ripe blackcurrant fruit. Remus is moreviticultural practices through to planting aromas together with tannic than Romulus, but the latter is morenew grape varieties. “fuller and riper,” according to my notes acidity and tannins, on the 2015 vintage. Technically the region is exploring newgrounds, literally. Barossa has 175 years while the Barossa Valley Many producers blend the two regionsof grape growing and winemaking history together and it is not hard to see why.but until recently nothing was documented provides the depth and Eden Valley provides the fragrance andon why one vineyard delivered different lifted aromas together with acidity andaromas and flavours than another. In the power. tannins, while the Barossa Valley providespast 10 years the Barossa Ground Project the depth and power.has started to unearth diversity through a Ninety-nine percent of the 3000ha ofdetailed look at its soils. Initially 80 single vineyards in the Eden are above 280m, The project split the Barossa Valley intovineyards were looked at in an attempt and the highest is up to 630m. It is three “grounds”- northern, central andto record their difference. Then in 2014 considerably higher than the Barossa southern. In the north there is a westernthey whittled it down nine key “grounds” Valley, and is wetter and cooler. When the ridge rising to 450m that has red earthand made wine out of them, keeping the Barossa Valley can hit 40C in the height of with schist and ironstone, the topsoilswinemaking simple and constant. At the summer, there can be a three degree dip here are very thin. It is the presence ofsame time, a scientific report was written in the Eden. The soils are rocky and mainly this ironstone “fleck” that winemaker Timon climate, soils and the topography of the shallow in the Eden Valley. Some are Smith reckons is a desirable attribute to aBarossa terroir. termed as skeletal yellow sandy podzolic good vineyard. The parishes of Greenock in nature. Nicki Robins, Viticultural and Seppeltsfield are contained in the Just to put the record straight, Barossa Development Officer for the Barossa ridge of the northern grounds and containis the zone and when used on a label it Grape & Wine Association calls these some of the oldest soil in the valley, whilecan be made from Barossa Valley and/ soils “skinny,” defining them as unfertile Ebenezer, Moppa and Kalimna are onor Eden Valley fruit. While Barossa Valley with a lack of nutrients and composed flatter aspects. The northern grounds canand Eden Valley can only be from their of a lot of rocks and sand. They are free give you the most powerful expression ofrespected geographically mapped out draining which can cause a problem in Barossa shiraz.valleys. High Eden is a legal sub-region ofthe Eden Valley. In the central grounds lies the parishes24 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
Uniquely Yorke Peninsulaof Bethany and Krondorf as well as the Cellar Door and Function CentreVine Vale, Light Pass, Gomersol and Open 7 days 10am-5pmMarananga areas. Here the altitude isbetween 180m to 280m and is warmer Lizard Park Drive, South Kilkerranbut tempered by gully breezes from the Phone 8834 1258eastern ridge, which is the topographicalfeature of the valley. [email protected] barleystackswines.com The soils on the central grounds aresandy loam and black cracking clay, aterm that indicates what happens whenthey dry out. These are some of themost common soils found in the valley.There is a band of extremely sandy soilsaround the Light Pass and Vine Valearea. Here you will find what is thoughtto be the oldest grenache vineyard inthe world, owned by Marco Cirillo. Thevines were planted in 1850 and qualifyas “Ancestor vines” being greater than125 years of age. This is according to theBarossa Old Vine Charter that classifiesvines into four categories. “Old vines”are classified as equal or greater than35 years old. “Survivor vines” are equalor greater than 70 years of age, while“Centenarian vines” are equal or greaterthan 100 years of age. “Ancestor” is theoldest. The shiraz coming out of this areaprovides plenty of blackberry, blueberryand fruitcake aromas, and is medium tofull-bodied in style. The southern grounds is around theparish of Lyndoch and also covers theRowland Flats area. It has the lowestaltitude starting at 110m and generallywarmer than the central and northerngrounds. There is more rainfall here thanthe other two regions in the Barossa Valley.The soils are predominately sandy or clayloams. From these soils the wines displaymore red rather than black fruits, withsofter, riper tannins. November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 25
winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGTAKE A CHANCE - MACAU’S A SURE BETI HAVE fond memories of Macau pre-2003, European cultural heritage, food and wine The Grand Lisboa Hotel boasts twothe year foreign casinos were allowed scene and museums. Fortunately, the Michelin three-star restaurants underto set up shop in the former Portuguese Pousada de Coloane is still in business, its vaulting roof. The first is The Eightcolony handed back to China only four still gorgeous and remains one of the Restaurant where chef Joseph Tseyears earlier. A fellow journalist and I most popular places to stay on leading oversees a contemporary take onwere visiting Hong Kong, and Macau Australian websites such as booking.com. Cantonese cuisine. Located away from thewas included in the trip because it’s only casino floor, the lavish but tasteful decora one-hour ferry ride away. We stayed The strategy is paying off as far as by Hong Kong-based design guru Alanat the Pousada de Coloane, an historic culinary tourism is concerned. In late Chan is based on the figure of eight - thePortuguese-style inn that excelled in 2017 Macau was named a UNESCO City ultimate lucky number in Chinese culture.making the Macnaese national dish - of Gastronomy and will play host to Asia’s The wine list of more than 16,000 bottlesMinchi - a one-dish meal of minced pork, Best Restaurants awards this year and in is as over the top as the vast chandelier.potatoes, onions and soy sauce toppedwith a fried egg. A Filipina chanteuse sang Even for those whose More than 40 dim sum treats are upWind Beneath My Wings in a voice so pure for consideration, including the cutethe Bette Midler original sounded like a only gambling venture porcupine-shaped char siu bao. Thekaraoke night effort and warm breezes signature menu degustation featureswafted over the outdoor terrace as we ate. for the year is a $10 bet stand-out dishes such as stir-fried lobster with egg, minced pork and black bean, Over the past 15 years, Macau’s mega- on the Melbourne Cup, and the legendary A5 Kagoshima wagyucasinos and kilometres-long stretch of beef - the most expensive in the world -five-star hotels have eclipsed such simple Macau’s glitzy casinos rolled in watercress. For lunch, The Eightpleasures. The territory’s 30-plus casinos also serves a more reasonably-pricedpull in seven times more revenue than Las and hotels are the dim sum.Vegas, surpassing its American rival as theworld’s number-one gambling destination. places to sample haute Robuchon au Dome, the Grand Lisboa’sThe gaming boom isn’t as massive as it other Michelin three-star restaurant, iswas two years ago following President cuisine dished up by also worth the splurge. Filling a glass-Xi Jinping’s crackdown on corruption. ceilinged room on the hotel’s 43rd floor,Mainland Chinese high rollers are also superstar chefs as they the wrap-around views of Macau’s skylineheading for other Asian destinations such are as exhilarating as the French hauteas Vietnam, South Korea, Cambodia and are in Las Vegas. cuisine of the late Joel Robuchon, whosethe Philippines who have muscled in on global chain boasts 32 Michelin stars. Thethe gambling “holiday” market. 2019. Even for those whose only gambling restaurant shares the same huge cellar as venture for the year is a $10 bet on the The Eight. There’s still a lot of construction and Melbourne Cup, Macau’s glitzy casinosinfrastructure projects under way in and hotels are the places to sample haute The frankly ostentatious decorMacau, but the local tourist board is again cuisine dished up by superstar chefs as semaphores you have entered the mostemphasising the tiny enclave’s unique they are in Las Vegas. expensive restaurant in Macau. We opened with Le Caviar - the finest sturgeon26 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
Leave an Impression Eden Valley, South Australia Single Vineyard Winesroe embellished with king crab and fusion of Portuguese and Cantonese Email: [email protected] jelly - which was sensational. cooking. A Lorcha on the Rua do Almirante Phone: 02 9955 2008The other stand-outs of the Menu Prestige Sergio is widely-recognised as the best. /TheCollectiveWinewas caramelised frog’s legs piqued with Located near the Barra Temple, the @the.collective.winepink garlic and served on spelt risotto and owner’s mother is the head chef andLe Boeuf Kagoshima, which proved to be is famous for her arroz de morisco a www.thecollectivewinecompany.com.authe most concentrated essence of beef I Portuguesa (rice with prawns), galinhahave ever tasted. Africana (spicy African chicken) and charcoal-grilled meats and seafood. In fact, when it comes to wagyu in MacauKagoshima is the benchmark and up it The barbecue is also pressed intopopped again at Aji, which opened at service at Manuel Cozinha Portuguesathe MGM Hotel Cotai in early 2018. Chef where the stewed rabbit and fried riceMitsuhara Tsumura, who runs the world- with squid ink are also crowd pleasers.famous Maido, the best restaurant in Lima, A Petisqueira could be air-freighted toPeru, is the master of Nikkei cuisine - a Portugal and is famous for its bacalhaufusion of Peruvian flavours with Japanese dried, salted cod) prepared five waystechniques. There’s a ceviche and sushi and fried clams. Banza, named after itscounter where you can watch the chefs in wine-loving owner, who is generous withaction and make sure to try the carretilla his advice is renowned for its seafood andceviche - the freshest fish, chullpi maize ever-changing daily specials.from South America, steamed mussels andlime-based sauce. The star of the show is Macau’s hotels and casinos are rife withKagoshima short ribs slow-cooked for 50 bars and lounges, but if you are afterhours in nitsuke fish sauce. drinking places with character you need to be in the know. Local ex-pats make up Another ubiquitous French maestro, most of the clientele at the Old Taipa Tavern.Alain Ducasse, is overseeing two In the shadow of the facade of the ruinedrestaurants in the newly-opened Morpheus St Paul’s Church, Macau’s most famousHotel, the flagship of the City of Dreams photo-op, you will find Macau Soul - famedentertainment, shopping and casino for its jazz and wine selection. Cover bandscomplex. The property was one of the from the Philippines are still an institutionfinal works of uber-architect Zaha Hadid. in Macau and some of the best can beFrench is the direction of the menu at the found at the Moonwalk Bar on the territory’sAlain Ducasse at Morpheus Restaurant nightlife strip, where you can stay very lateand a modern take on Asian cuisine is the to sip cocktails or vinho verde. drawcard at Voyages by Alain Ducasse. Thankfully, Macau abounds in restaurantsserving traditional Macanese cuisine - a November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 27
FUTUREFAVO U R IT ES OUTSIDE AUSTRALIA’S MAINSTREAM WINES AN EMERGING RANGE OF NEW VARIETALS IS TURNING HEADS AND STIMULATING PALATES.DAN TRAUCKINOW is the “time to emerge” as the many wine producing countries, especially that?”. This is why the list keeps on growing.Australian wine industry is riding an exciting in old world countries, there are tight legal Recently I was informed that after threewave of great new wines being produced restrictions as to what varieties can be visits to Greece, Barossa-based Paulmarafrom emerging varieties. The definition grown where, thus limiting the number of Wines, brought in cuttings of the nativeof “emerging” varieties is at this stage in varieties that they can make wine from. Greek varieties - xinomavro (red), robolathe adventure still somewhat subjective (white), mavrodaphne (red) and assyrtikoand flexible in its interpretation. I believe There are a few European wine countries (white). These cuttings are undergoingit should be defined as “varieties new to who make wine from more varieties, the long, mandatory Australian Customsthe country as well as long established like the Georgians with their 522 native quarantine process. Hopefully some ofvarieties which only a small number of varieties, but how many of these countries the cuttings will pass the stringent diseasewineries produce” - wines that have not produce wine from varieties introduced tests and Paulmara will soon be growingcaught the wine drinker’s imagination/ from other countries since the beginning these native Greek varieties at suitable sitesinterest. An example is verdelho, which of the 20th century? in the Barossa, McLaren Vale and Adelaidehas been around since the earliest of Hills. There are plenty of other stories liketimes, but has still not yet emerged to Australia, on the other hand, despite this which have resulted in new “emerging”become mainstream. On the other hand, being a relatively young wine producing varieties now being grown in Australia, andthe Spanish native variety tempranillo, nation and therefore not constrained by it would appear the trend is not slowing.which was only introduced to Australia rules and regulations that have evolvedrecently, has so far nearly 400 out of our in older producing countries over the In keeping with this evolving landscape,2400 wineries producing it, and therefore in centuries, is the most experimental wine Winestate has conducted the inauguralthis context it is considered to have already producing country in the world. Although Winestate/Winery Lane EVAs (emergingemerged into the mainstream. it has no native varieties of its own (other variety awards). The EVAs is a consumer than three created by the CSIRO which focused wine judging that aims to discover According to the vinous “bible,” Wine haven’t taken off), Australia produces wines the best wines made from “emerging grapeGrapes, by Jancis Robinson et al there from 153 different varieties (and counting) varieties” and to present them to wineare 1168 grape varieties used to make instead of just using the mainstream 35 consumers in a “road show”. In this first year,wine around the world. In reality there are varieties or so that most other producing the consumer tastings were conducted atquite a few more than that, as for example, countries rely on. This experimentation the National Wine Centre in Adelaide and atI have tasted wines made from three native has been facilitated by the absence of the RACV Club in Melbourne, with Sydney,Chinese grape varieties that were not listed restrictive laws and even more so driven Brisbane and perhaps Perth being addedin the “bible”. So it is quite surprising that by the natural curiosity of winemakers, next year. Both events sold out within anmost of the world’s wine (over 85 per cent) especially after tasting some of these hour or two of being offered to Winestateis made from a mere 35 grape varieties. In varieties in their native land and thinking, magazine subscribers. “Hmm, I wonder what we could do with28 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
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It is a celebration of these exciting wines enjoyment for the small band of consumersmade from “new” grape varieties, as well as who try and appreciate them, therebybeing a recognition of the pioneering spirit helping to demonstrate the diversity ofand sense of adventure shown by so many Australian grapes and wines.in the Australian wine industry. Many if not most of these new varietal wines Emerging varieties do not necessarily are being made as a real “Aussie expression”have to just be varieties that are new to of the wine from its native land, rather than asthe country - picpoul and gruner veltliner a “copycat”. In earlier days - 1960s to 1980sin white wines, and saperavi or mencia in - when the Australian industry was changingthe reds. They can and should also include from making almost entirely fortified wines tovarieties that have been around for a long making table wines, many producers triedtime but did not catch the imagination of to imitate the famous wines of Europe. Thiswine drinkers in earlier more conservative meant that most cabernet growers weretimes. Marsanne is a perfect example of trying hard to make an imitation bordeaux,this. Tahbilk (formerly Chateau Tahbilk) has while growers mimicked the great wines ofbeen growing marsanne since 1927, so Hermitage in France, even to the extent ofnot exactly a “newbie” but nevertheless an calling their shiraz wine hermitage, such asemerging variety because the vast majority Grange Hermitage. The few pinot growersof Australian wine drinkers haven’t tried it or that there were at the time tried to imitatearen’t even aware of it. Likewise in the reds, burgundy. The industry has grown andwith durif which Morris Wines in Rutherglen matured so that today it produces Australianhas been producing as a varietal since 1954 expressions of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz(probably the world’s first varietal durif wine). and pinot noir, etc. If it helps to put the definition of Just as the Australian food palate hasemerging into context, remember that outgrown the old “meat and three veg”chardonnay was an emerging variety in meals served in the 1950s and gone onthe late 1970s through to the early 1980s to encompass a vast array of amazingbefore it went viral and on to be the foods from all around the world, it is in thebiggest selling white wine in Australia. process of doing the same vinously, with just under 50 per cent of Australian wineries Some of these newer emerging varieties producing at least one (or often more)are destined for greatness and will really wines from emerging varieties.take off just like gruner veltliner is doing.The first Australian gruner was made by The inaugural Winestate/Winery LaneCanberra’s Lark Hill Wines in 2009, followed EVAs judging received close to 400 entriesclosely by Adelaide Hills-based Hahndorf and this showed that many of the moreHill Wines the next year. Today there are adventurous and confident winemakers40 growers, mainly in the Adelaide Hills, were prepared to put their “wares” up forbut also in the Granite Belt in Queensland, scrutiny by impartial industry colleaguesthe cooler parts of New South Wales and and showcase them to consumers. It literallyVictoria, and Tasmania. From two growers was a showing of the “cream of the crop”to 40 in just eight years is somewhat akin to of the emerging variety wines, with manya tidal wave or wild fire in the wine industry. categories having almost all of the wines scoring at least three-stars (equivalent to Other emerging varieties will just tick a Bronze medal). For example, in the Neroalong without sudden explosive increases d’Avola class all 13 entries scored threeor even much gradual growth in plantings. or more stars - no under performers there.Nonetheless, they will still be creating30 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
Likewise with the seven pinot blanc entries Just as thewhere all received three or more stars. In the Australian foodup-and-coming gruner veltliner category 15 palate has outgrownof the 17 entries scored three-plus stars, the old “meat and three veg”with three wines scoring five-stars. Not meals served the 1950s and gone on tobad for a category that didn’t even exist encompass a vast array of amazing foods from10 years ago. all around the world, it is in the process of doing the same vinously, with just under 50 per The independent judging panels consisted cent of Australian wineries producingof winemakers who all work with a number of at least one (or often more)these emerging varieties. Next year’s EVAs wines from emergingwill include sommeliers on the judging panelsto bring the event closer to consumers. varieties. One of the highlights of the EVAs was and in different styles, ranging from semi-that the vermentino class was the largest sweet to vintage fortifieds. Most were idealwith 25 entries. The judges described it as to curl up with in a cosy armchair and abeing a “very good class” with only three good book on a cold night.of the entries not achieving three-stars orbetter. Surprisingly, the next largest class As previously mentioned, the judging waswas durif with 19 entries, rather than one followed by two extremely well-attendedof the Italian varieties such as sangiovese consumer tastings, the first in Adelaideor nebbiolo as would have been expected. at the National Wine Centre the day afterThe durif class had 16 three-star or better the judging was finalised, and the other atresults - a sensational result for this under- Melbourne’s RACV Club a week later. At bothappreciated variety. events the wines were presented in varietal brackets to assist attending consumers, who Another class that stood out was the were supplied with an explanatory bookletsaperavi, which was solid with seven describing the varieties as well as listing allout of the eight wines scoring three-plus the wines being shown. There were manystars. Saperavi is an ancient Georgian expressions of surprise and plenty of positivegrape that has only very recently been comments from guests, with many peoplegrown in Australia, with the first varietal trying some of these varieties for the first time.wines made in either 2007 or 2008. Theentries included the Cirami Estate 2017 It was an exciting launch to a new annualSaperavi, which is the follow-on vintage feature focused on enlightening consumersto the sensational 2015 vintage, which to these emerging varieties.was awarded the Double Gold “SapPrize”- The World Saperavi Prize - the top prize Check out the results in this issue andfor non-Georgian saperavi in the world. seek out some of these interesting andCirami Estate is the wine brand for the innovative wines. They will broaden yourRiverland Vine Improvement Committee, vinous horizons as well as giving you greatwhich is a not-for-profit vine nursery based enjoyment. at Monash in South Australia’s Riverland,an amazing achievement. The surprising category was that ofthe “Sweet and Fortified” wines, wherethere were some delicious wines made indifferent regions, from different varieties November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 31
32 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
WAR WItoNEMIKE ZEKULICHA cost-saving month-long Christmas-holiday visit to Guatemala in protea production and were keen to be part of a fledgling newfrom California led a young South African student to Australia – and industry. His Stellenbosch reference was enough to ensure hisultimately to become WA’s biggest vineyard contractor and carer. Australian migration approval would be endorsed. As well, Andy Ferreira is now a major WA wine producer with Sleeves rolled up, Andy and new wife Mandy leased a propertythree brands and almost 20 different wines in his portfolio, set to at Busselton in the State’s south west and turned to what they knewincrease with planned expansion. best from their South African experience – growing and marketing vegetables – catering for WA markets in key southern centres, Perth Now 57, the tall mild-mannered former school rugby player and even overseas when product was available.has become a lover of the WA outback and huge coastline sincemigrating to the State in 1985. Then it was time to turn to vineyard contracting, a specialty machinery maintenance service business and a winemaking Before that however, he had to meet South African military service operation.obligations defending apartheid – involving fighting in Angola andNamibia – actions he described as unfair and futile. Today some 23 people are employed fulltime and about 50 casually for the vineyard and winemaking needs while expanding An important benefit at home in South Africa was to obtain property investments have provided funds for a family home anddegrees in viticulture and horticulture at Stellenbosch University farm property on the region’s main north-south artery, Bussellbefore taking on post graduate studies in agricultural economics Highway at Carbunup just south of Busselton.and labour relations at the University of Los Angeles in Fresno,California. It was from that base that he made his crucial trip to Solid business growth has resulted in a $7-9 million annualGuatemala, changing his life forever. turnover. “I met some young Aussies there who made a big impression on But it was not a glamorous start.my outlook and life,” he said. When Andy and his wife arrived in WA they had just enough money to buy an old ute, rent a house and purchase a double bed “I was really taken with their attitude. I thought if a country can mattress under which they spread newspaper to stop the dampproduce such people, then that is where I want to be.” coming through. Later, Andy reflected on their situation: At the time, he carried a short South African reference for his “I had enough in South Africa,” he said. “Either I stayed ortechnical protea production ability from Stellenbosch – and his moved on.timing was excellent. For at the time a number of WA rural folk were showing interest November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 33
Before that however, he had to meet South African military service obligations defending apartheid – involving fighting in Angola and Namibia – actions he described as unfair and futile.34 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
“At the start in WA, it was me and a small tractor,” he said. “I don’t want to take on lost causes. Average is not good enough “It was challenging and demanding especially when interest in our game.”rates got to 21 per cent.” Early on in the viticultural industry, they were contracting to the The business now harvests some 165 vineyards around WA andmaintenance and planting of some 400ha of vineyard a year while manages 25 estates harvesting up to 1000 tonnes a day at vintage,establishing their own second property. including any purchases for their own wines. “In the last five years, we have come a whole lot closer tobalancing grape supply and wine demand,” he said. Andy believes that changes to the WET legislation have created “In Margaret River, the early planting boom was never more uncertainty now in the WA winegrape industry than there hassustainable.” Andy said the region’s plantings expanded by some been in the last five years.500 per cent from 1995 to 2005. “How anyone ever thought we could move sales up by 500 per “Ripping out $150K of net profit from businesses that turnovercent was economic stupidity,” he said. between $1.3 and $1.8 million will be tough for many Margaret “We are all now very pleased if we can grow sales by 10 percent River producers,” he said.a year. As a growing region, we went through 15 tough years. Yetwe are still looking at similar and even some below average grape “There has been plenty of pain working in this industry for 30prices to those of 15 to 20 years ago – apart from prized varieties years but being part of Margaret River excellence keeps melike chardonnay and cabernet. going,” he said. But we have learnt an enormous amount about the area whenbefore, there was no real knowledge of terroir and how the industry “I have had no regrets. We are happy here.” was going to perform. The vines are now at the age when we canjudge them in the winery. Previous pages: Night harvest checking the vines, Andy Ferreira amongst barrels. “We have learnt what works and what doesn’t while planting Top left: Andy Ferreira amongst barrels.varieties in places they do best.” Bottom left: Night harvesting. With partner Rob Tincey, some 17 wines are produced under Above: Night harvesting.three brands, Butler Crest, Night Harvest and Cape to Cape, fromsome 1000 tonnes of fruit in all. Some of the wine is sold in bulkand some to big name wine producers in the State. Qantas is animportant buyer with regular consistent exclusive monthly orderswhich makes a big difference to their operation according to Andy. “We are not prepared to take on a vineyard management clientunless we can make 20 per cent on turnover,” he said. November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 35
brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELA COUPLE of decades ago young chef Reclaimed furniture and a jungle full of Vieira which boasts two of the coveted stars.Katrina Ryan left Sydney, where she greenery give the place a cosy, retro vibe, He also boasts the Bocuse de Bronze Asia-had owned her own restaurants and held with the original concrete workshop floors and Pacific 2016, and is the 8th ranked chef inposts like head chef of Rockpool, with her a giant mural (a golden pig included) above the world following the Bocuse d’Or Worldhusband Mark (also a chef) to raise their the kitchen. There’s a strong line-up of craft final in 2017. Not bad for a boy from Brissieyoung family in the less frenetic surrounds beers on offer at the bar as well as an Asian- and now he is returning home with wifeof sunny Queensland. inspired array of cocktails and a wine list that Amelie to open his eponymously-named includes some French varietals and riesling offering in the all-new Alex Perry Hotel She made a name for herself as a teacher styles that marry so well with Asian food. 38 opposite the Emporium complex.at the revered Spirit House Cooking School Ross St, Newstead; phone (07) 3666 0884.in Yandina about two hours north of Brisbane. Light and spacious, the room is simply andHer culinary reach around Asia is extensive For a capital known as “The River City” elegantly furnished with much time and noand her ability to impart that information Brisbane has struggled with providing its expense spared with the cutlery, tablewareimpressive, so it seemed logical for the residents and visitors with ample riverfront and napery, all of which is first rate. Thepair to open their own cooking school, The restaurants. Notable absolute waterfront menu is a choice of three “experiences” orGolden Pig, in semi-industrial Newstead, venues include Bar Alto at New Farm, set menus as we diners call it. Experiencein Brisbane’s inner north about six years Alchemy and Jellyfish in the CBD, Stokehouse one is an individually priced collection ofago. A casual cafe at the front of the former at Southbank and newly opened Three dishes, including a charcuterie plate, Paris-motorcycle workshop came next. This year Blue Ducks also in the CBD. Now, at the style gnocchi with winter vegetables, flankthe Ryans decided it was time to launch back opposite end of town, comes Patina, at steak with roasted celeriac and horseradishinto the restaurant industry. After looking for the heritage-listed Customs House formally sauce and a confit leg of duck and lentilanother spot they decided to use the same known as Customs House Restaurant. The ragu. This is only available at the bar onlocation and condense the cooking school kitchen brigade is headed up by chef John Friday and Saturday nights so that leavesto a couple of nights of the week while the Offenhauser (ex-chef de cuisine and sous Experience three and five for those wantingrestaurant operates in the same space on the chef at Marco Polo at the Treasury Hotel) lunch or dinner “a table”.other nights. So if you’re looking to learn you who has created a share-style menu withcan book into classes such as French bistro a focus on locally caught seafood and The smaller set menu starts with yamcooking, Spanish tapas, Greek, Vietnamese, seasonal produce. Offenhauser works closely carpaccio (after some delicious little amusecurry making and even a nose-to-tail pig with hinterland farmers and grows his own bouches that change regularly) with confitbutchery cooking class taken by Katrina mushrooms down in the cellar of the building. jerusalem artichoke and black truffle andand butcher Chris Luxton. And for those The menu is largely comprised of share hazelnut sauce which is followed by awho prefer to sit back and be cooked for, the plates derived from broad Mediterranean saddle of Sovereign lamb, roasted celeriacmenu between Tuesday and Saturday shows influences - think chargrilled octopus with and a jus gras.influences from China, Thailand and Japan smoked tomato, olive, basil and mozzarella,among others. Entrees include scallops in salad of spring beets, baby leeks, artichoke Experience five offers torched king fish withponzu miso butter, tea-smoke salmon with and creme fraiche, and slow-cooked lamb toasted sesame and soy, smoked potato andfresh coconut on betel leaves and bao with shoulder with black garlic hummus, harissa pork cheek canneloni, line caught blue eyetwice cooked masterstock pork, chilli caramel yoghurt, pomegranate and flat breads - but with charred cabbage, potato crisps and redand yuzu mayo. There’s a massaman curry there’s also a detour into Asia and beyond onion and a simply delicious charcoal duckof sweet potato in the “medium plates” with dishes like tempura asparagus, soy breast with a braised leg, pumpkin and smokysection alongside crispy Sichaun chicken cured egg yolk and ABC sauce. 399 Queen braised onion petals.and the quintessentially Queensland-meets- St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3365 8921.Asia classic crispy skinned barramundi in a The food is seriously technique-driven andfragrant yellow broth with galangal and Thai Dan Arnold left Brisbane for France to unabashedly French, and yet it avoids thebasil. Mark is a former chef and building gain knowledge and over the ensuing seven heavy and sometimes downright stodginessdesigner who redesigned the space to work years that’s exactly what happened. He of some French fine dining. Arnold has aas both cooking school and restaurant. first worked at the three Michelin-starred deft and light touch, understands balance L’Esperance and then as sous chef of Serge and nuanced flavour combinations, and has a special talent for the production of beautiful sauces and emulsions, something some would argue is the most important part of the dish. 959 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3189 2735. Top: Duck from The Golden Pig. Far left: Gyoza from The Golden Pig. Left: Papaya Salad from The Golden Pig.36 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINDESPITE the calls of an over-saturated The wine list has an Italian focus - no chef at the award-winning Paringa Estatehospitality market and the almost impossible American drops here, with all chosen for restaurant on the Mornington Peninsula buttask of finding good staff, Melbourne chefs either their weight, acidity, or fruit-forward he decided to challenge himself, open hisand restaurant owners are branching out, characters to enable them to stand up to own venue and take charge at Navi. Setbeing brave (or crazy) and opening first- the big flavours. 421 Rathdowne St, Carlton; in Seddon, in Melbourne’s inner-west andtime solo venture or second venues. phone (03) 9134 8555. a suburb rarely associated with high-end dining, Navi has Hills firmly in the driver’s Capitano is a new addition to Carlton, Embla Wine Bar on Russell Street in seat, with a contemporary, edgy menu thata suburb already packed with Italian the city has a new sibling, Lesa. It’s taken changes almost daily, working with producerestaurants of various descriptions and longer to open than anyone, particularly that may only be at its peak for a short time.price points. Described by chef and co- than the owners Christian McCabe and There are only 25 seats and he’s open onlyowner Casey Wall as, “an Australian take Dave Verheul anticipated, but the doors four dinners a week.on an American-Italian restaurant”. Wall and swung open on the dining room directlyhis business partners’, Sommelier - Banjo upstairs from Embla in August. Hills has a Bachelor of Fine Arts inHarris Plane; Front-of-house - Manu Potoi drawing and ceramics and this comesand Manager - Michael Bascetta (who also Lesa means “to gather” in Old Norse, and through in all the details of the room - detailco-own Bar Liberty in Fitzroy) have found an the team have gathered all the elements a is everywhere - including his hand-madeexpected gap in the market, serving a menu good restaurant needs to thrive - a beautiful plates upon which every dish is served.of full-flavoured, unfussy Italian-esque food. room, a gun team on the floor, a schmick wineThink shaved prosciutto (made in Ballarat) list and smart cooking from the kitchen. A dish of smoked blue mackerel marinatedand pork neck gabagool (cured ham) with in honey and white soy, and then aged for ahouse-made sourdough and spicy pickled Lesa is a restaurant that offers a set menu, week in beeswax has got the city talking andfennel. The cheese pizza with pecorino, fresh and chef Dave Verheul, takes an intelligent other dishes may include: butter-poachedand aged mozzarella is heavy on the salt but approach to local produce, bringing out its marron, with chargrilled leek and egg yolkfull of comfort. There’s a choice of toppings - best through playful textures, subtle work caramel or suckling pig with miso tapenade.rainbow chard, new season onions, pickled with flavours and clever cooking. Thinkchilli, fennel salami, anchovy and mortadella raw flounder with hazelnut, green almond The drinks list - by Turin-born sommelier- which add to the intensity of flavour (we and pear leaf, a chicken porridge dish with Cristina Flora, formerly senior sommelierlove the combination of pickled chilli and almond milk and black chestnut (that you wish at the Press Club - takes unexpected turnsfennel salami). The sourdough base has a would never end) or an aged pork loin with with a sake selection and wines broken downgood char and chew. This is, quite simply, buckwheat miso, kale and pickled walnut. to Australian and International sections.very good pizza. Bookings are essential - Navi is already These guys are known for their wine booked up until early 2019. 83B Gamon A dish of Vesuvio pasta arrives as over- selections - thanks to Embla downstairs - so Street, Yarraville; phone (03) 9939 9774. sized fusilli doused in a sauce of onion, expect more interesting, low-interventiontinned tomatoes, cream and garlic. And the wines upstairs that the savvy staff will happily Top left: Smoked honey bonito, sea greens, honey andclam pasta is a lush mix of spaghetti in a guide you through. roasted smoked bone dashi from Navi restaurant (photosauce of butter, lemon and parsley. The veal credit. Ed Sloane).parmigiana easily feeds up to three people, The room is immediately welcoming. Moody Top right: Pine mushrooms from Navi restaurant (photooozy with fresh mozzarella and basil, it lighting, textured brick, leather cushioned credit. Ed Sloane).blankets the plate on which it’s served. banquettes and loads of wood allow you to Above: Duck in two parts from Navi restaurant (photo immerse yourself into the nest Lesa is above credit. Ed Sloane). Salads are simple but the perfect match the bustle of the streets below. At the momentto the uncomplicated mains. Wild greens they’re open four nights a week, with a vieware coated in an anchovy dressing, to open more down the track. Level 1, 122with loads of parmesan. Another salad Russell Street; phone (03) 9654 5923.of sliced apple, fresh fennel and agedricotta is also a zesty foil. We couldn’t help but wonder if chef Julian Hills was brave or crazy when he opened his first solo-venture in the first half of 2018. For six years Hills had been head November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 37
hong konggrapevineLUCY JENKINSSWEDISH chef, Bjorn Frantzen brought its new taverna, Artemis & Apollo was The newcomer is headed up by Ryotathe effortlessly cool Scandi upscale certainly being teased out like a Greek Kanesawa, from Tenku RyuGin (the Hongdining concept to Hong Kong with the epic in the lead up to its launch. Modelling Kong outlet of the three-Michelin-starredeponymously named Frantzen which took itself on the slower pace of Mediterranean Tokyo restaurant) and Ryota Kappou isup residence in an effortlessly cool side life, Artemis & Apollo is the antithesis of his first solo venture.alley in Sheung Wan. most Hong Kong local eateries where you eat, get shouted at by the servers and pay Everything from the interior design to Now the quiet, headline shunning chef - all in about 15 minutes. the eight-course tasting menu has beenhas opened a new venture in the form thought about - very thoroughly. The menuof The Flying Elk which takes the place Like with all places nowadays, the goes into such intricate detail that youof Maximal Concepts’ Fish & Meat on menu is meant to be shared family wonder if you should eat each course orWyndham Street. style, but there’s no greater feeling than display it on your mantelpiece. There’s plunging straight into freshly made sweetcorn tempura, Karuna shrimp, foie The Flying Elk is not Frantzen, where mezzes including bright fava mash made gras topped with sweet raspberry – eachyou’re looking at a sizeable hole in your from pureed yellow split peas, to traditional dish more convoluted than the last. Thewallet before you even get to your main taramasalata, or creamy mullet roe dip all tableware has even been handpickedcourse, as it’s as casual, as er, Swedish with warm bread. in Osaka and Kyoto. Come ready for anfood can be. authentically detailed and stylish dining Mains include fresh seafood — think experience – but the evidently carefully Think deep fried pigs’ ears, a pork cheek grilled calamari drizzled with lemon — to thought through sake pairing really takesopen sandwich, baby chicken and lobster a hearty selection of spit-roasted meats, it up a notch.pot au feu, smoked venison and probably including chicken or pork souvlakis servedsome of the best smoked salmon you’ll with warm pitta and yogurt, and charcoal- Ryota Kappou Modern, 21/F, 18 On Lanexperience in town. roasted Tasmanian lamb. Street, Central, Hong Kong, +852 2628- 189. Portion sizes are decent, and the wine list Meanwhile, the wine list does a brilliantwell populated with small-scale Old and job of showing off some of Greece’s Top left: Ryota Kappou restaurant interior.New World producers. It’s already a hit with diverse wine offering, with Artemis & Top right: The Flying Elk restaurant logo.the Soho crowd and pulling in punters from Apollo’s charming courtyard just made for Bottom left: Food from Flying Elk restaurant.all corners of town. polishing off a few glasses. Below: Food from Ryota Kappou restaurant. Bottom: Artemis and Apollo restaurant. The Flying Elk, 32 Wyndham Street, Artemis & Apollo, G/F, 9 and 11 MoonCentral, Hong Kong, +852 2565 6788 Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong, +852 2818 8681 Typical of the usual hype surroundingany Black Sheep restaurant opening, Sometimes, it may feel like Hong Kong is overpopulated with Japanese restaurants. There is certainly no other nation which Hong Kongers seem to ape so much, which is why any new Japanese eatery gets instantly booked up.38 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
perthgrapevine ERIN LARKINPERTH finally has a natural wine bar, with in Perth, especially Italian, Greek and baking sourdough after reading Floura menu offering that is focused on fresh, English. Many people have memories or Water Salt Yeast, and following the Sanseasonal, locally sourced produce. current-day circumstances where there Francisco bakers, the guys in Oregon, is a favourite family dish, a homemade and I started baking dark crust bread. Wines of While is a natural wine bar at sausage, or bowl of pasta that is simple.” I use a no-knead method, baked in athe northern end of William street in Perth Belgian Rofco oven. The sandstone baseand is the brainchild of first-time publican Sam prepares local ingredients onsite, provides a consistent heat,” explains Sam,Sam Winfield (doctor by day, WSET global sourced from local area suppliers. He “I was tired of eating blond bread. It’s soaward winning, entrepreneur and wine works with pork, lamb and goat from boring. My point of difference is I providelover by night). The cosy and light-filled Macabee Dorper in the Avon Valley. bread that has a dark crust with flavourWines of While has a European, oenoteca and texture. When you’re only baking 24vibe where the food is chosen based on “Macabee Dorper work with heritage to 36 loaves a day, you can afford to makeits match to the wines. breeds. For example, I look for the pork bread that people are interested in. I serve with good back fat as it has a better the bread in the bar.” “Natural wines are known for their high flavour. They have African breeds of lambacidity and sometimes volatility, so they which have a distinct taste. These are not Dishes like broadbeans, pecorino, lemon,often need food to go with them that can supermarket cuts that people are used olive oil and sourdough, or radicchio andcomplement those characters. Our menu to buying.” witlof with bottarga; raw artichoke saladcaters to the matching of these wines. with ricotta salata and locally sourcedIt’s not so serious - whatever you want to For the seafood, Sam spring greens feature.drink, we’ve got something to go with it” goes to local businesssays Sam. The food is simple, seasonal Catalano’s Seafood, The menu displayed scrawled on aand nourishing without being heavy or sourcing favourites blackboard behind the bar, along with theoverhearty. like crabs, baccala, wines by the glass, is kept intentionally mackerel and sardines. tight, consisting of 7-10 small plates to go “There are many restaurants and “People are screaming with the wines, and one plate du jour forbars in Perth that focus on precise and out for something the evening meal, which changes severalelegant food which is great, but I want familiar and delicious times a week. “The idea is people canto provide simplicity. Real food; no bells that they don’t have to come by on their way home from work andand whistles. Food that is approachable think too much about.” stop in for a meal.”and generous. My friends, and myselfincluded, can only go out for the fine food There is talk around Wines of While has been packed outexperience so often.” town of Sam’s every night since opening, but if you can sourdough, which, prior sneak in early, you will be rewarded with a The people of Perth have been flocking to the bar, he had been spot to sit, and a glass to sip. 458 Williamto get a taste of Wines of While since it selling out of a café in Street Perth. E:[email protected] its doors in early August. North Fremantle. Top: Fresh bread from Wines of While, Sam Winfield. “There’s an interesting mix of cultures “I got seriously into Below: Wines of While, Sam Winfield. November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 39
adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSIT has a new name and its menu is constantly chips - tempura battered or chargrilled garlic, fresh chilli, grated parmesan andevolving, but Maxwell’s - formerly known as bream or flake with house cut chips - the very good, locally-made pasta. There’s justEllen St - continues to display the same focus is more on its inventive fish and one dessert - no fuss, no choice, no frills,outstanding quality and value. seafood menu. Early menus paid homage just a Peter’s Drumstick. The wine list is to old classics such as a prawn cocktail, similarly spare - one red (a Montepulciano Nor has there been any change to the but that’s been replaced with Coffin Bay from Abbruzzo), one white (pecorino,panoramic views over the vineyards of oysters, with either a shallot vinaigrette or also Abruzzo), one sparkling (a VenetoMcLaren Vale from this elegant stone and tempura-style with wasabi mayo, chilli and prosecco), all at modest mark-ups. It’s aglass-encased winery dining room, one of lime. Starters that have stood the test of brave way to run a restaurant but everybodythe most beautifully located restaurants in time are the Ortis anchovy soldiers, prettily seems to win, which is not surprising giventhe region. decorated with salted egg yolk, or the that the team behind it is also responsible for Hiramasa kingfish sashimi with shallots and hit restaurants such as Ruby Red Flamingo German-trained chef Fabian Lehmann lemon dressing. A plate of confit tuna atop a around the corner and Tony Tomatoes pizzahas the unique advantage of having his salad of white beans, green olives, capers joint up the road. At least you won’t haveown limestone cave in which to grow and shallots, lifted with a lemon and kewpie to spend a lot of time working out what tomushrooms, with delicate pine mushroom mayonnaise vinaigrette, is a breath of eat and drink. And November being an “r”and chicken croquettes prettily served in a summer freshness. More elaborate dishes month, you can expect the crabs to be atbox with pine needles and bark. Lehmann’s include crisp nanagai with Singaporean their best. Spaghetti Crab, 47 O’Connell St,light touch shows through with dishes such black pepper sauce, coriander and savoury North Adelaide. Open for dinner Tuesday toas steamed mussels with dill oil, iceplant donuts. At the top end of the scale there’s Saturday; phone (08) 8361 8714.and chopped granny smith apple, or mudcrab, to be ordered in advance, servedpan-seared Murray cod on parsley sauce with Singapore chilli or black pepper sauce. Adelaide hasn’t had many restaurantswith crisp Jerusalem artichokes. The slow- If you sit at the outside tables there’s not featuring Russian cuisine, so the welcomebraised saltbush lamb shoulder, pulled and much between you, the jetty and the beach, mat was well and truly out for Red October,reassembled, served with shaved celeriac or on a cool day sit inside at the window whose name has nothing to do with theand charred broccolini goes exceptionally bench for great views over Gulf St Vincent. submarine movie of that name. This newwell with Maxwell’s Ancient Earth shiraz. It’s Sea Salt, Beachfront, 269 Seaview Rd, addition to Adelaide’s CBD was inspiredalso worth mentioning that Lehmann’s crisp, Henley Beach. Open daily for lunch and by a Moscow chocolate factory of thatolive-flecked bread rolls, served with house- dinner; phone (08) 8465 5005. name, now a creative hub, and featuresmade butter, are a highlight in themselves. modern versions of some of Russia’s bestThe wine list, not surprisingly, is a showcase Spaghetti Crab was supposed to be dishes, many featuring in-house picklings,of owner Mark Maxwell’s finest. Maxwell’s, open for only six weeks, in transition from ferments and baking -notably the mostOlivers Rd, McLaren Vale. Open for lunch Beach Bum to something new from serial delicious Borodinsky sour dough rye.daily; phone (08) 8323 8200. restaurateur Walter Ventura, but within days that idea has been tossed out, such Start with crisp deep-fried chebureki With around 90km of beachfront you’d was the customer response. pork and sauerkraut dumplings with sourexpect Adelaide’s coastline to be packed cream or shaved venison carpaccio withwith great seaside fish and chippers, but This is the first restaurant in Adelaide to pickled mustard seeds and narsharabthat’s far from the case, making newcomer feature just one dish - spaghetti in pomegranate sauce, while larger dishesSea Salt a rare but very welcome addition. a gorgeously thick tomato sauce include Ajika pork, a terrific Georgian-style with chunks of whole crab on top, dish of crisp-skinned pork belly laced with It may look like a bright and breezy diner, a bowl of chopped fresh chilli and a fiery spice mix served with juliennedbut that’s just a little deceptive, and although more sauce on the side. Messy celeriac and fennel with fresh herbs andits menu does include exemplary fish and in the extreme, though plastic caramelised turnip puree. bibs are provided, along with a succession of finger bowls, Downstairs there’s a somewhat secretive napkins and scented towels, but bar that boasts around 450 whiskies - and so delicious it’s every bit worth it. a few lesser known vodkas, of course. Red One dish, although there is an October, 22 Gilbert Place, Adelaide. Open unlisted non-crab alternative - for dinner Tuesday to Saturday; phone (08) spaghetti aglio olio, the spaghetti 8212 2938. aficionado’s favourite. Good oil, Top: Sea Salt restaurant exterior, Henley Beach. Left: Mussels from Maxwell restaurant.40 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
RED CHILLI CHINESE RESTAURANTis committed to bringing Adelaide the most authenticand finest Szechwan cuisine, and culture. Their chefsare strictly trained, highly experienced and are directlyrecruited from the birthplace of the cuisine style. Majorseasonings and sauces are selected elaborately, andimported from the Szechwan region in China, and theirrecipes have successfully incorporated fresh, local produceinto traditional Szechwan cuisine. From Szechwan style teasmoked duck, homemade sauced Mapo Tofu, and Chef’sspecial fish fillet, they have got more than one hundreddifferent dishes on the menu to meet your appetite. If youare a Szechwan cuisine lover, you shall not miss out RedChilli Chinese Restaurant.CATERING: Restaurant is able to provide flexible cateringservice either small or large group referring to customers’preferences. Our friendly staff would be more than happyprovide any assistance we could to meet customers’satisfaction.FUNCTIONS: Red Chilli is available for exclusivefunction use based on clients’ needs. Dining area is able toaccommodate for up to 150 guests in a seated style.PRIVATE ROOM: There are five exquisite and welldecorated private dining rooms for personal catering needs.(Prior reservation is needed)OPEN 7 DAYSLUNCH: Mon - Sun 11:30 AM- 2:30 PMDINNER: Sun - Thu 5:30 PM - 9:30 PM Fri - Sat 5:30 PM - 10:00 PMADDRESS: 86 Grote Street, Adelaide SA 5000PHONE: 08 8231 9661
sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGWHEN a restaurant is packed with locals, it was off limits to us. No bad thing when the We want Bang Bang to deliver a taste ofnot the foodie equivalent of tyre-kickers, stand-ins were 12-hour slow-cooked Rangers Tokyo’s past and present to Sydney, sayswithin a week of opening it’s a sure sign Valley wagyu brisket with green papaya and head of operations Ayako Sugimura. As youof longevity. Chubby Cheeks is named burnt chilli, and crispy skin free range chook tuck into dinner listings such as robata, sushi,after the toddler daughter of owners with Chubby Cheeks’ special satay sauce. sashimi, tempura and the amazing fusion dishSongpol and Lyn Manoonpong and the - carbonara udon - it’s hard to disagree. Bangtongue-in-cheek attitude extends to the There were only two desserts - black sticky Bang, 14 Steam Mill Lane, Darling Squarefunky yet stylish fit out. The design team at rice, pandan custard and coconut ice cream, near Haymarket; phone (02) 8591 7818.Guru Projects has fashioned a welcoming and deep-fried salted caramel ice creamspace that fits Paddington’s upscale image with popcorn and salted caramel sauce. We If I read the over-used word “storytelling”- exposed brick walls, timber trusses and opted for the former and went the whole hog one more time I am going to scream. Most offront-of-house lounges tailor-made for a with a 2017 Juniper Estate Cane Cut Riesling the so-called “stories” involved aren’t worthgirls’ night out or romantic date. from Margaret River to sweeten an already telling or would be news only to a 10-year- moreish deal. The staff could have doubled old. But I have to admit that Bistecca has The Manoonpongs also own Armchair as extras from the movie Crazy Rich Asians transformed a concept that’s become aCollective, a homewares store specialising in and were as efficient as they were friendly and cliche into something attention-grabbing.one-off restored armchairs and chic adjacent casually stylish. The clincher? You can buy For starters, it may take you a while tocafe in Mona Vale. South of the Harbour most of Chubby Cheeks’ props if they catch identify the entrance to the restaurant evenBridge, they have hired executive chef your fancy. Chubby Cheeks, 437 Oxford St, when you have walked past it a couple ofDavid Glaesson (formerly of Luke Mangan’s Paddington; phone (02) 9332 1886. times and there’s only one dish on the menuGlass) and head chef Em Meechia (ex-Luke - Bistecca alla Fiorentina - Tuscany’s famousNguyen’s award-winning Red Lantern). The There’s been an outbreak of hideaway- homage to the T-bone steak.gist of the sophisticated menu is Thai but style restaurants opening their doors overother Asian cuisines are well-represented in the past few months. Steam Mill Lane bills Even if the meat in question wasn’t Riverinathe edited but wide-ranging listings divided itself as Sydney’s largest little laneway and grain-fed black angus, many people wouldinto seven headings to encourage sharing - is the location of Bang Bang, an 85-seat come here because the owners haveCheeky Bites, Cheekier Bites, Chubby Bites, izakaya bar which would look at home in banned mobile phones. Or rather, you haveChubby’s Noodles/Rice, Cheeky Sides and Tokyo’s trend-central district of Shinjuku. to leave them at the door. You can’t bookCheeky Sweets. Sydney graphic artist Harley Johnson has and have to front up and hope for one of supplied Japanese-inspired illustrations, the two sittings - 6pm or 8pm. Once you've Cocktails, wines and spirits are a major but the vintage street signs, lanterns, “passed” these tests, you are ushered into afocus because of Paddo’s professional demo, vending machines and lacquered tables dining room that looks like its gone throughstarting with inspiring mixes such as Kaffir were all imported from Japan. distressed ageing to resemble a traditionalLime Daiquiri and Thai Spiced Negroni. Asian Florentine dining room - black and whitebeers such as Singha make up 50 per cent Hard by the massive International floor tiles and exposed brick.of the amber ales. The wine list has serious Convention Centre between Darling Harbourchops with European, Australian and New and Haymarket, attention to detail is Bang There’s plenty of vino on offer - 300 bottlingsZealand bottlings, ranging from Olivier Merlin Bang’s trump card. There’s a soundproof - as you decide on the size of your steak whichBourgogne Black through Wanaka Road Pinot karaoke glass box if you take full advantage is hand-sawn to order and charged accordingGris and Mada Shiraz from Canberra. of the curated selection of Japanese to weight. Grilled to perfection and seasoned whiskies which features pricey bottlings with olive oil and sea salt, you choose from 12 We cherry-picked our way through the hard- such as Yamazaki 12 Year Old Single Malt or side dishes, including Tuscan white beans. Ato-decide menu, beginning with edamame the restaurant’s own craft beer, Bang Bang total treat that’s carried out with plenty of brio.salsa, tiger prawn and sweet potato fritters Lager. There’s also an enticing line-up of Bistecca, 3 Dalley St, Sydney; phone (02)and tea-smoked duck breast and banana sake´ and shochu, a private tatami room and 8067 0450. blossom salad. The last choice is hard to yatai stall offering steaming bowls of ramen.describe because the disparate flavours - All photos: Food from Chubby Cheeks restaurant.while remaining separate - coalesced into a Head chef Kokubo Yuji has been attractingwhole that was so much greater than its parts. herds of office workers for his lunch menus, featuring udon, curries, donburi, omelettes A vegetable curry is to Asian cuisines what and the Bang Bang Tepasaki, a “tower” ofan omelette is to Western chefs. There’s double-fried chicken wings slathered in anowhere to run or hide and results can fiery soy glaze. The evening cocktail listbe disappointing without due care. The takes its cue from Japan’s back alley rojiuraaromatic yellow curry of cauliflowers was a culture, specialising in shochu and sake´vegetarian triumph and the central ingredient creations such as Citrus Bombard, citruswas enhanced by charred kipfler potatoes, fruits squeezed in their skins and infusedeggplants, pumpkin, green beans and tofu. with shochu.Earlier diners had enthusiastically chosenthe steamed barramundi with lotus leaf, so42 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
winewordsL E O N H I L L & TA N YA B L A I RCO-FOUNDERS – ORGANIC HILLSKYE MURTAGHWINE has played an influential role in the to our wines, and let them flourish for the What profile do you think Australia,journeys of both Leon Hill and his partner varieties that they are. Leon handles all of particularly SA, has in the domestic andin life and business, Tanya Blair. Born in our National Sales and will eventually start international organic wine markets forWestern Sydney, Tanya become involved building on an export market as well. I deal organic wines?in her family’s hotel business early on in her with everything behind the scenes and willadult life. Working her way up the ladder she eventually open a cellar door. Leon: South Australia is the king of red.became an attendant at a little bottle shop in Let’s face it, some of the best reds in theone of the family pubs – eventually running it. Tell us about your home-base in McLaren world come from SA. McLaren Vale isThe bottle shop had a big focus on boutique Vale. becoming the lynchpin of the organic herefamily-owned wines, and Tanya’s thirst for in SA. As far as the international market,wine knowledge was fed by reading every Tanya: We’re living on the vineyard we just organic as a category has grown by overwine book and magazine she could get her purchased on Twentyeight Rd in McLaren US$2billlion every year for the past 13 years.hands on! It was later, while she was Food Vale. Our kids go to the local childcare andand Beverage manager at one of her parent’s we’ve made quite a home for ourselves. The What’s the balance between demandhotels, that she met Adelaide-born Leon. A property is five acres with some beautiful old for organic and non-organic winesgraduate of the Roseworthy Campus of the vine grenache planted in 1969. We have a domestically?University of Adelaide, Leon was running small family of kangaroos that spend thea successful wine distribution business majority of mornings and evenings roaming Leon: People still like regular wine, organicat the time, pioneering the organic and the vineyard and our two boys find this is just becoming the normal. But there arepreservative free wine category across east thoroughly entertaining. still plenty of people out there who don’tand west coast Australia. From a friendship believe in organic in general, not just in wine.and shared love of wine, blossomed a For the wine consumer – why organic? If you look, you will see demand for organicrelationship and growing mutual interest Leon: It’s what they want. The growth of drastically increasing across all categories,in producing their own premium range of as others slowly begin to decline.organic and preservative free wines. Organic the whole wellness category has penetratedHill launched in 2015 and is enjoying growing into the market place over the last ten years. Where do the risks lie in this pocket ofmarket interest across its four wine ranges: Preservative free, vegan, gluten free, dairy the market?Organic, Preservative Free, McLaren Vale free, nut free, the uses of chemicals andFounders Release and ‘36 Twentyeight sprays have been an issue for all products - Leon: Lack of supply is a large risk.Road’. just look at Monsanto’s Roundup law suit. It Demand is becoming so large for a segment cost the company $289 million dollars and that is really still quite small. This is clearlyWhy pursue success in the organic wine someone’s life. To the end consumer, these evident in the many vineyards now tryingmarket? products are now a threat to their lives and to convert to organic practices to jump on this is in all aspects of the market, not just the band wagon. On top of this, we have Leon: Mostly personal. I’d realised I was wine. to manage pest, disease and weather -gluten intolerant and started shopping naturally making everything a very hands-on,in organic shops looking for gluten free Where does ‘preservative free’ fit in your time-consuming practice but leaves youbread as, at the time, this wasn’t a product wine offering? open to losing entire vintages at once to keepavailable in the mainstream supermarket. I organic integrity.began distributing a number of organic wine Tanya: All of our reds are organic,brands and filled with excitement for the preservative free and vegan friendly and And the opportunities?opportunities of growth and development a couple are also bio-dynamic. Our white Leon: There is serious growth domesticallyin this area. wines are all low preservative, and we’ll endeavour to make them preservative free and internationally if you have the distributionHow does Organic Hill work? in the future as well. Whites are just more points. Our biggest asset is we are distributors Tanya: We source a large portion of fruit difficult to make preservative free. In a first – in the organic sector – now we are not way, it is its own market - almost like selling only a distribution business we are a brandfrom various growers in the Riverland as well a category rather than a wine. People and vineyards with cellar door to follow.as McLaren Vale. This year we purchased are much more health conscious andour first vineyard in McLaren Vale and are watch what goes into their bodies. Also, For fellow partners in life across thelooking forward to our first vintage of estate people have allergies. I myself struggle with vines, any tips to a harmonious workinggrown fruit. Our philosophy is organic first preservatives, colourings, gluten, dairy and relationship?and foremost. What happens in the vineyard I watch my sugar levels. The modern-daywill depict your quality and this allows us to population are doing the same. Tanya: Don’t do it!! Ha ha. In all honesty,have a gentle, almost minimalist approach communication is the key, and time out for the two of you to be a relationship outside of the business and the kids. We try and have date night once a fortnight and either44 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
go out for dinner or just light a fire and sit What are some of the exciting craving for French wine. Much to Leon’saround with some take out. Balancing work, developments on the horizon at Organic disappointment, as now I have ‘expensivethe kids and spending 24/7 together is a Hill? taste’ but, deep down, I know he loves it asbig challenge, but at the end of the day, French food and wine is always on top of ournone of it would exist without the two of you Tanya: Well, I can’t tell all but first and list when we go out.being together and you have to work really foremost we’re about to release a 2018 Nerohard to make sure you nurture that or it will D’Avola Rosé - all organic and preservative Where’s the most unusual place you’veall fall apart. free of course - as well as a Blanc de Blanc. consumed wine? For 2019, we’ll be making a premium oldWhat’s the one thing you’ll always agree vine grenache, all estate grown, our vines Leon: Well, for me it’s not so much abouton in business? will be 50 years old for first vintage. This the product I drank at the time, but the has us pretty excited. We’d like to build a product I can now drink every time I visit. Leon: That we’ll never drop our price below cellar door on our vineyard and I’ve been The Parer’s Hotel on King Island are avida certain point because there’s nothing working on some plans. We’re in draft at customers, due to us having our ‘Babycheap about what we do. Viticulture and the moment but thinking along the lines of Moon’ there when Tanya was pregnant withwinemaking practices are more labour using solar power, rain water, timber, metal our first son, Jack. I now visit every year forintensive, we then add to this by being concrete etc. keeping it all ‘organic’ for lack wine dinners, seafood, cheese and the everpreservative free and vegan; some of our of a better word. famous Scallop Pie in Grassy.wine are even biodynamic. We throw ourblood, sweat and tears into every bottle of How would you describe your personal What’s your favourite wine accessory?wine as we always want to over deliver. wine collection? Tanya: Definitely the Mamba decanter byAnd the one area guaranteed to generate Tanya: It’s all starting to get some good Riedel that I bought Leon for his birthday lasta ‘discussion’? age. It’s not all of organic or all Australian. year. It’s the ultimate centrepiece for a dinner We like to mix it up and have a wide range party. On top of that, the wine has so much Leon: Really, it’s just the indifference of products. We both love champagne, but aeration it completely opens up in a smallbetween on and off premise in the way of that never lasts very long in our cellar. Pride amount of time. labels and marketing. Tanya likes things to of place at the moment is Bekkers. Toby andbe pretty, but that doesn’t always sell. The his wife Emmanuelle have some seriouslyconsumer needs to be able to read a label gorgeous wines; delicate, full of flavour andand know what they are buying in a short really recognise the terroir of McLaren Vale.space of time as people are time poor -hence getting our name Organic Hill. Name the most memorable bottle of wine you’ve ever consumed.What are your top three selling points toglobal consumers as to why they should Tanya: That’s easy: Cobaw Ridge 2006experience organic wines produced using Lagrein. Not over the top in price, andgrapes grown in South Australian wine certainly not the most expensive bottle ofregions? wine I’ve ever consumed, but yum! I had never had a wine quite like it and I was Tanya: 1) Flavour. An organic wine has rummaging around Leon’s cellar when wea completely different palate and is driven first moved in together, looking for somethingby quality fruit. Also, McLaren Vale is one different for our date night at home. We nowof the largest growth zones for organic have none left. I’m pretty sure I drank hisand sustainable practices. 2). Bias. In my whole collection.opinion South Australia has some of thebest produce in the world. I was blown How have your individual wine tastesaway when I first lived here. Everything is changed over the years?so fresh and delicious. 3) Experience. Youdon’t know what you like without trying. Don’t Tanya: Prior to being with Leon, 99 perlimit yourself. South Australia is having major cent of the wine I drank was Australian. Thegrowth and the wines here are getting better other one per cent would have been NZevery year. pinot noir. He’s opened my eyes to a range of European wines, as he spent a few years working in the fine dining French restaurant, La Grillade. With his amazing knowledge of French product, I’ve developed quite the November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 45
W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000 WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600 2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560 2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250 1970 $400 Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330 1971 $720 1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280 1972 $400 1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450 1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480 1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350 1975 $460 1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300 1990 $130 1976 $850 1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360 1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320 1978 $380 1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110 1997 $300 1993 $100 1980 $380 1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400 1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380 1995 $130 1983 $480 1998 $85 1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390 1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110 2006 $180 1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120 2007 Not Released 1998 $130 1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130 2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130 1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120 2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140 2002 $120 1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190 1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140 2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250 2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180 2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95 2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160 2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100 2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95 2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press1997 $80 2005 $651998 $95 2006 $120 2006 $65 Shiraz1999 Not Released 2007 $190 2007 Not Released2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $1502001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $1402002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $952003 $85 Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $1502004 $110 Shiraz2005 $140 2010 $90 1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $2802007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $1602009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320 1995 $100 2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280 2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250 2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110 2000 $65 2001 $110 2003 $110 2005 $110 2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85BROKENWOOD 2005 $120 2003 $90 Bin 707Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110 2006 $120 1990 $250 2008 $85 1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210 2009 $85 1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220 2010 $100 1995 Not Released1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/1993 $80 1997 $1901994 $80 2008 $95 2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $2001995 $85 2009 $95 2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100 Chardonnay 2002 $220 1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230 1992 $6001998 $140 ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220 1993 $7001999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140 Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210 1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85 1990 $90 1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,0002002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,0002003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000 1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $8502004 $85 1994 $85 1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,0002005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $4502006 $110 1959 $2,0002007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,6002008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200 2003 $500 1965 $600 2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550 1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250 2004 $75 1997 $200 2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75 2010 $7046 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700 E. Guigal La Turque1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $3,2001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $850 1994 $120 1992 $2701995 $110 1993 $2401996 $160 Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1997 $85 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1998 $160 1996 $2601999 $100 1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 Perfectly2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 balanced.2001 $100 1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $8502002 $150 1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated,2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500 2001 $520 yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”.2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 Our bold service offering is built on2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 a full-bodied foundation of vast2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 general commercial experience, yet2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 overlaid with distinctive specialist2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 expertise in a number of key2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 industries and niche market2011 $110 2002 $500 sectors. Rothschild 2003 $600 It’s a winning combination that 1990 $650 2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco allows every client who opens a 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 “case” to get exactly what they 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 need. So whatever your business 1993 $550 1992 Not Released or legal objectives, don’t hesitate 1994 $340 to contact us.Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 At DW Fox Tucker, every1878 $2,200 1996 $800 de la Romanee 1994 $260 client matters.1879 $2,500 1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $2101880 $1,800 1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 L14, 100 King William Street1881 $1,800 1999 $750 1991 $1,900 1997 $380 Adelaide SA 50001882 $1,800 2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 p: +61 8 8124 18111887 $1,200 2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1893 $1,200 2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 e: [email protected] $1,200 2003 $600 1995 $3,500 2001 $250 dwfoxtucker.com.au1901 $700 2004 $850 1996 $3,100 2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES 2006 $950 1998 $2,200 2004 $310 ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY Chateau Latour RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES1908 $600 1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS1910 $500 1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia COMPENSATION1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500 Ornellaia1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $3201930 $140 1995 $1,200 2006 $1,700 1992 $1051933 $140 1996 $1,400 2007 $1,200 1993 $1251939 $90 1997 $650 2008 $2,400 1994 $130 1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $1801944 $80 2000 $1,600 2001 $7001947 $75 2002 $600 1997 $350 2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200 WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280 Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150Perignon 1990 $2,500 2004 $280 1980 $180 Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $2001982 $280 1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700 2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000 1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $8001983 $190 1998 $4,800 2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700 2001 $4,500 2002 $680 1990 $5601990 $320 2003 $600 1991 $4201992 $240 1994 $5501993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200 1996 $3601995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $4201996 $370 1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $4201999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $2002003 $190 2003 $2942004 $170 November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 47 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM
wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES MW WINES all had hammer prices of $92. Results for (JULY 2018 AUCTION REPORT, by Bin 407 were similarly impressive, with MW Wines ANTHONY CAPUTI) hammer prices of $71, $78, $80 and $73 November 28 - December 5 THE secondary market continues to go for the 1999, 2001, 2004 and 2012 vintages (submissions close November 24). from strength to strength at MW Wines, with respectively. We can’t talk about Penfolds strong results emanating due to great wines wines without exploring the number one LANGTON’S from great producers continually being wine in the secondary market - Grange. Langton’s holds up to 12 auctions offered by vendors. Buyer activity is almost An extraordinary 280 lots were offered with each week. Sales closing on at an all-time high, evidenced by clearance a clearance rate of 93 per cent and there Tuesdays focus on fine and rates consistently soaring north of 70 per were some significant results achieved. rare wine. Sales closing on cent and final hammer prices regularly Bottles from the early 1960s are becoming Thursdays focus on affordable exceeding estimates. The results in the increasingly rare and we were fortunate quality. Sales closing on Sundays July auction were indicative of our auctions enough to see some in good condition. include Langton’s popular weekly throughout this year. The clearance rate Bottles of 1961 and 1962 in original Unreserved sale. Visit langtons. exceeded 71 per cent, with over $494,000 condition with very high shoulder levels com.au for more. of wine changing hands. attracted plenty of buyer interest and sold for well above their estimates, achieving STERLING WINE Wines from the Penfolds stable often hammer prices of $2185 and $1955 Live on-line auctions run every dominate our auctions and this was the respectively. A cliniced bottle of 1966 with two weeks, back-to-back, finishing case again in July. An astonishing 706 a badly damaged label sold for $1322 and on Wednesday evening. lots were offered across the range, with some lucky person on their 50th birthday a 94 per cent clearance rate and some will receive an original bottle of 1968 with ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS excellent results achieved. Bin 389, or a very high shoulder level and damaged Visit oddbins.com.au for the latest “Baby Grange” as it was once referred to, label, which sold for $1380. auction dates and information. was significantly represented and results were strong: the 1996 achieved a hammer There were noteworthy results for other (All dates subject to change without price of $92, $97 for the ’98, $87 for the ’99, vintages of Grange on offer, too. The notice.) $97 for both the 2006 and 2008 vintages, hammer came down at $598 for the 1978 while the 2002, 2004 and 2005 vintages Grange, $621 for 1979 and there was plenty of interest in a cliniced bottle of 1981 that eventually sold for $644. Bottles of Grange from the 1990s also performed strongly: $620 was achieved for the 1991 and the 1992 peaked at $529, while hammer prices of $575, $598 and $644 were recorded for the 1994, ’96 and ’98 vintages respectively. Hammer prices at or above our estimates were also achieved for the 2000 ($563), 2001 ($563), 2002 ($598), 2004 ($598), 2005 ($575) and 2008 ($713) vintages. We have noted in previous reports the increase in buyer interest in Rockford Basket Press and Mount Mary Quintet. We’re pleased to report that this continued through our July auction. First, with Mount Mary Quintet the 1996, 2001 and 2002 vintages sold for $138, the 2003 reached $132 and the 2004 sold for $143. Of particular note was a magnum of 2012 Mount Mary Quintet. Magnums are made in very small quantities and the 2012 achieved a price of $414, more than three times the bottle price. Extraordinary! The difficulty in joining the mailing list and purchasing Rockford Basket Press leads auction buyers to actively pursue this wine in our auctions and the July sale was48 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
wine investment & collectingno different. 97 lots were up for sale and were again, well above our estimates. cellar offers keep providing wonderfula 100 per cent clearance rate ensued. Another top Burgundian producer is buying opportunities. If you’d like toHighlights included $126 achieved for the Domaine Robert Chevillon and the highly receive these offers, sign up at www.2000 vintage, $132 for the 2001, $155 for acclaimed 2002 vintage was on show mwwines.com.au/shop or phone (03)the 2004, 2008 and 2010 vintages, $143 for with a number of their wines. The Nuits- 9419 6990.the 2005, 2009 and 2014 vintages, $149 for St.-Georges Les Pruliers achieved athe 2012 and $161 for the 2006 vintage. hammer price of $161, Nuits-St.-Georges LANGTON’S Les Roncieres sold for $143, Nuits-St.- (AUCTION REPORT - JULY 2018, by While our bordeaux section was Georges Les Vaucrains sold for $166 ADRIAN READ)smaller than previously, there were and the hammer came down at $224some outstanding results. A good bottle for the excellent Nuits-St.-Georges Les LANGTON’S is by far Australia’s leadingof 2000 Chateau Latour achieved $1495, Saint-Georges. wine marketplace, mounting 52 onlinewhile bottles of 1982 Chateau L’Evangile auctions in July - between 11 and 12 salesreached $448 and an ullaged bottle of As we move towards the end of 2018, every week.1955 Chateau Talbot sold for $414. Wines we expect our auctions to continue tofrom Burgundy are a source of much joy offer up some exceptional catalogues The month’s highest price was $11,586to our buyers and the hammer prices of that will entice and excite our buyers. We paid for a very rare bottle of 1900 Chateausome of these in July was a testament to look forward to reporting on the results Brane-Cantenac from Margaux in thethis. The wines from Domaine Armand of these auctions in Winestate’s next Haut-Medoc of Bordeaux.Rousseau are always highly sought after edition. If you’re interested in buyingand we were fortunate to have a number or selling with us, contact any of our Two items tied for second place, bothof bottles from the 2001 vintage: the “Big team on (03) 9419 6990. Please note fetching $7573. One was a methuselahThree” - Chambertin, Chambertin Clos that all prices above include 15 per (six litres) of 1990 Roederer Cristalde Beze and Gevrey-Chambertin Clos cent buyer’s premium. There was also Champagne, the other a bottle of 1962St.-Jacques all sold for well above their plenty of activity in the fine wine retail Penfolds Bin 60A, the late Max Schubert’sestimates at $2185, $1897 and $1012 division through July. Our free tastings blend of Coonawarra Cabernet andrespectively. Pleasing results were also continue to offer fantastic new releases Barossa Shiraz widely regarded as theachieved for the Charmes-Chambertin mixed with back vintage offerings and greatest Australian red wine in livingand Clos de la Roche (both $598) and our offering of old and rare gems from memory. Next was a decanter of FrapinRuchottes-Chambertin ($644). These Burgundy, Barolo and Rhone via retail François Rabelais 500th Anniversary Cognac ($6990), followed by a 1990 Chateau Petrus ($6640), from Bordeaux, Specialists in the wines you want.Or the wines you want to sell.MUSEUM WINE SHOP MW WINE AUCTIONSOld, Rare and Fine Wine Sales Australia’s largest independent wine auction houseSpecialists in rare Australian wines, and Competitive rates, including 0% seller’spurveyors of the world’s most iconic commission on Penfolds Grange. For aproducers. Call us on 03 9419 6990 to free appraisal call 03 9419 6990 or emaildiscuss your wine needs or shop online [email protected] at mwwines.com.au mwwineauctions.com November/December 2018 W I N E S TAT E 49
wine investment & collectingand two Burgundies: 2005 Armand Chardonnay ($59), 2014 Oakridge 864 varieties? Will orange and natural wineRousseau Chambertin Grand Cru ($3845) Funder & Diamond Drive Block ($48), 2015 drinkers go to hell or are they our longand 2002 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Spinifex La Maline ($38), 2012 Torbreck term salvation, saving us from wineRomanee St-Vivant ($3147). RunRig Shiraz ($160) and 2014 Hentley repetition and boredom?We all know the Farm Clos Otto Shiraz ($135). myth and maybe some have had firsthand Sets also did well in July. A 19-bottle encounters. There are some very silly folksvertical (1990-2008) of Clonakilla Shiraz All prices include buyer’s premium. in wine service that lend themselves toViognier went for $3146 and an 18-bottle Langton’s holds up to 12 auctions each parody and cliched comedy. This is notvertical (1990-2007) of Moss Wood week. Sales closing on Tuesdays focus new. The gags about eccentric, funny andCabernet Sauvignon made $3029. on fine and rare wine. Sales closing on deluded wine service go back beforeNext best were two early vintages of Thursdays focus on affordable quality. talking pictures at the movies. Manuel ofSeppeltsfield 100 Year Old Para (Port), the Sales closing on Sundays include John Cleese’s Faulty Towers is my1879 on $3029 and the 1890 on $2505, Langton’s popular, weekly Unreserved favourite. Snobbishness andfollowed by a 1963 Penfolds Grange sale. Visit langtons.com.au for more condescension was the wine waiters foilon $2307. Then another set, a 12-bottle information. from the past. Today, we still have plentyvertical (2001-2012) of Rockford Basket of projected “snob” and creepy superiorityPress Shiraz, which went for $2097. STERLING WINE AUCTIONS coming from wine service in fancy (HIPSTER SOMMELIERS - BLESSINGS restaurants, but what’s different from times High prices were also paid for 1971 AND CURSES, by LYNTON BARBER) long past is the unrestrained love for allPenfolds Grange ($1730), 2008 Penfolds things wine weird and the passionateBin 620 Cabernet-Shiraz ($1516), 1998 ANY system that remains unchallenged recommendation for the latest thing. NotChris Ringland Dry Grown Shiraz ($1398), is destined to failure and obscurity. listening to guests’ preferences anda magnum of 1990 Henschke Hill of Grace Challenge and change are agents of tastes, and not understanding a buyer’sShiraz ($1282) and two more vintages of vitality and longevity. We need to look at “comfort zone” is a double-edged swordGrange, 1978 ($1227) and 1976 ($1226). our wine icons and ask hard questions wielded by many a sommelier in the quest and challenge the inherent supporting for wine enlightenment. Challenges can Another useful indication of market “ t r u t h s ” . D o e s t h e w o r l d t u r n o n be good, but some folks don’t wantsupport is volume of bidding. Wines that chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz challenges at the dinner table. For sure,provoked fierce bidding battles in July and pinot noir? Is this the monarchy that when the Jedi Somm gets it right, all areincluded 2014 By Farr Tout Pres Pinot will never be challenged by the rank andNoir ($83), 2015 Bass Phillip Premium file plebeians of “lesser” wines andPinot Noir ($176), 2014 Xanadu Reserve50 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2018
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