Winestate Magazine March April 2018

MARCH/APRIL 2018 WINESTATE VOL 41 ISSUE 2 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEBAROSSA ITALIAN & SPANISH CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA CHARDONNAY MARLBOROUGH (NZ) CELEBRATING THE ARTISTRY OF WINE &Italian Spanish 156 tasted Barossa & Eden Valley 164 tasted MAKING THE GRADE Pepperjack's meaty match MAKING THE MOST OF A BIG BACKYARD Just Don't tell Gary...PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 March/April 2018 Vol 41 Issue 2 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Chardonnay & Blends • Central & Western Victoria • New Releases Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • Italian & Spanish • Marlborough (NZ)





ORGANIZED BYGRAND TASTING 5StarWinesFINEST ITALIAN WINESVerona, 14 April 2018 THE BOOK

NO.288 MARCH/APRIL 2018Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely YorkeManaging Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] PeninsulaNZ Editor Jane Skilton MW E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Jane Skilton MW, Emma Jenkins MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinHONG KONG Lucy JenkinsADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublishingPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] OgdenLifestyle Media Vic Pty LtdPhone: 03 9696 9960Email: [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comEmail: [email protected] Cellar Door and Function CentreGordon and Gotch Australia P/L Open 7 days 10am-5pmInternationalDAI Rubicon Lizard Park Drive, South Kilkerran Phone 8834 1258WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. barleystackswine@internode.on.netCopyright2018byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwhole barleystackswines.comor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisherassumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 5

contentsMARCH/APRIL 2018 R E G U L A R S 10 Briefs 28 34 THE ARTISTRY OF WINE 18 NZ Briefs A passion for music, art and wine 20 European Report with Sally Easton FEATURES 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley united long time mates, Will Bolton 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King 28 MAKING THE GRADE and Matt Dunning. Seizing on Will’s 26 Wine History with Valmai Hankel Achieving an ideal wine/meat match connection to the great Australian 36 Grapevine artist Sir Lionel Lindsay, they’ve 46 Wine Words between steak and a quality red created an exciting range of wines 48 Wine Investment & Collecting takes skill, explains Dan Traucki, that pay homage to the past whilst 52 What’s it Worth? but Barossa-based Pepperjack embracing a modern cellar door 114 Aftertaste “Graded” wines has taken the experience. guess work out of the equation.W I N E TAST I N G S Each vintage winemaker and chef 34 collaborate to maintain the fidelity of 56 Central & Western Victoria the matching concept. The range of 60 Italian & Spanish wines is designed to be accompany 70 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley porterhouse or scotch fillet steak to 78 Chardonnay & Blends create the perfect match. 84 Marlborough, NZ 90 Jane Skilton’s Recent Releases 30 MAKING THE MOST OF A BIG BACKYARD Winemaker Jo Nash has big responsibilities, writes Jeni Port. Facing up to 12,500 tonnes of fruit 95 New Releases and Best Value each vintage from and area almost Buys under $20. as big as Victoria, she oversees the McPerson Wines range of labels, including Don’t Tell Gary, MWC (McPherson Wines Co) and Laneway. Drawing grapes from eight different Victorian regions, Nash must juggle grower and winery responsibilities along with family demands of four children, and now she is moving to 30 alternative grape varieties to further diversify the company’s output. For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Winestate Magazine Issue Number 288 March/April 2018. Cover image Jakub Gojda6 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

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The intense yellow colours and fruity, floral aromas are reminiscant of the falling Autum leaves, that inspire us to try new things as the seasons role by. Enjoy the fresh taste of crisp apples which are harmonious and persistent with notes of almonds. Brought to your table from Italy, why not indulge your senses in our newest family member- Luma Grillo.Now available for purchase at: 982-992 Port Road, Albert Park, 5014 P: (08) 8349 1200 F: (08) 8349 1277 E: [email protected] CACMAPMAPGANGANFAINFIANNAZNIZAITAATAAIASI SEENNSSII www.festivalcitywines.com.au DEDLERLERGEG. U. UEENN..11330088/2/2001133 CACMAPMAPIGANIGNFINFIANNACNECEDDAACCCCOORRDDIINNGG TOTEOUEURERGEG. .NNOO..11330088//22001133

editorialDIFFICULT TO BELIEVE BUT WE ARE gearing up to our 40th anniversary issue nextissue with the May/June edition. The excitement is palpable, but first things first; as every goodsporting coach will tell you “one game at a time”. What we have in this issue is also important, as is every issue we produce. That’s the amazingthing about judging so many regions, style tastings and new releases in every issue. Thereis something for everyone. Maybe that’s why we are still around after all this time. And welove doing it. As I write winemakers in Australia and New Zealand are busy with vintage. Using the sportingvernacular, each year brings new hope of getting the win; producing award winning wines,getting that next sale or even finding that small fortune that began with a large fortune. While times have been tough for the 2000-plus small brands fighting over 5 per cent of themarket, there are shoots of promise in overseas markets. Treasury Wines, through its Penfoldsbrand, is showing the way with amazing growth overseas, particularly in the China market. Thisis great news for “Brand Australia” and when free trade agreements come into play shouldtrickle down to other smaller producers. New Zealand has already done this and has seen thevalue of overseas treaties. So while our winemakers are slaving over a warm ferment let’s enjoy what this issue has to offer. First we present the fine regions ofBarossa & Eden Valley from South Australia, a perennial favourite that also seems to be a target for Chinese investors looking for abrand or a partnership. Maybe this proves the trickle-down theory that Penfolds has created in China. Other wineries can also benefitfrom this interest although one wonders how eventually this will affect the local consumer in terms of price and availability. Next we have Central & Western Victoria wines ranging from Great Western and the Grampians in the west to Bendigo/Ballarat inthe centre and Heathcote towards the east. This is like a band of brothers/sisters that produce seriously good wines in the mid-weightspectrum rather than heavyweight blockbusters, more in the market direction these days. For our Kiwi Kussins (sic) we are pleased to show off wines from the Marlborough region. The sauvignon blanc wines from here havetaken over the world and are synonymous with New Zealand whenever wine is mentioned. But while the variety is easy to pick, with itsherbaceous overtones, and hence is a darling of the lunch set, don’t be fooled into thinking it is just a simple obvious variety. In fact atthe top level these can be superb wines and despite biased opinion the best can also age extremely well. For the ABC drinkers (anything but chardonnay, cabernet etc) we present a judging of Mediterranean varietals, originally from Italy,Spain and even Portugal. In Australia many warm climate regions excel in producing these wines and after many years of practisewinemakers are getting their heads around the fact that they don’t have to make them like shiraz and chardonnay, turning them into genericdry red/white styles rather than expressions of what each individual alternate variety can do. The other important factor is that many ofthese varietals are made for drinking, not wine shows, and the best examples have been produced when this has been acknowledged. Finally no issue is complete without our New Releases judging where any wines currently available that have just been released canbe put to our sword. We make no apologies that in a world where everyone seems to win a prize (and a good one at that) we are tough,but we believe winemakers understand this and are willing to take their chances. So any wine we recommend is one we would happilydrink ourselves. As we always say, lots to like in this issue and lots to enjoy. Cheers! Peter Simic Your wine,Major Sponsors and Supporters our ports. WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY Australia Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsINNOVATOR WHO PAVED THE WAY be completed late this year. “This marks a significant moment in Brokenwood’s history,” Brokenwood chief winemaker and “A BASIC problem with the managing director Iain Riggs said. “Our current cellar door vocation of oenology is the was built in the ’70s, so this new venture means a lot to us limited practical experience but, most importantly, it will allow for more fun and exciting available in a lifetime.” wine experiences for our dedicated customers.” During the last four decades a great deal has changed in the way cellar While he may have been miffed doors operate. The new complex will sport “customer-focused that his chosen career as an wine pods,” Enomatic wine dispensers for rare and museum oenologist (aka winemaker) saw wines and wine on tap, as well as an entertainment terrace his contribution limited to just one hosting music and pop-up guest chefs and food trucks. A vintage a year, Ian Hickinbotham winery restaurant is also planned. was nevertheless central to some of the greatest advances MAN BEHIND THE NAME and commercial successes in Australian winemaking history. THERE are generations of Australian wine drinkers who believeHe died on December 29, in Williamstown, aged 87. In a Dan Murphy, the name behind the country’s largest chain oflifetime devoted to wine, Hickinbotham or “Hick” as he was wine stores, was not named after an actual person but ratheroften called, seemed to always be in the right place at the is the figment of some wine marketer’s imagination.right time. Probably more to the point, it became the righttime due to his presence. He revealed a great deal about Similarly, they consider the company’s logo, featuring athe chemistry of wine and, by his inquiring mind and work, middle-aged man sporting a Mona Lisa smile, to be totallyhelped improve wine standards in a young, emerging wine fictional. Woolworths, the owner of more than 200 Dan Murphy’sindustry in a hurry to prove itself. In the 1950s, when employed stores across the country - and more opening every monthat Wynns Coonawarra Estate and using research he had - considered it was time to redress these false notions. Theconducted for his thesis, he introduced secondary malo-lactic Dan Murphy Story: A Life Dedicated To Wine is the result. Thefermentation to red winemaking in Australia. “The innovation, book reveals an extraordinary, driven and competitive manalmost certainly a world-first, was only possible because I who dominated the Melbourne wine retailing scene from theused a glass electrode pH meter to monitor the rise in pH of 1950s through to the sale of his business to Woolworths in 1998.the wines,” he wrote in his 2008 memoir, Australian Plonky.As general manager of the South Australia Grapegrowers’ Melbourne wine retailing in the 1950s was devoted toCo-operative in the Barossa Valley, he came up with a new “fine” wine and spirits aimed at the well-to-do. Dan Murphyname for the fortified maker that better reflected its Barossan democratised wine, popularised it, first by instigating Theheritage - Kaiser Stuhl, named after the highest hill of the Vintage Club with membership to all (the first wine club inBarossa Ranges - and then persuaded the company to move Australia), then by engaging in wine education, wine writinginto sparkling wines, introducing Sparkling Rinegolde. In the (he was The Age newspaper’s1960s, as Victorian manager for Penfolds he championed first wine writer) together withPenfolds red wines, notably Grange, and the wine cask. With the promotion of the first winehis family, all of his three children were involved in wine, cask. His biggest gamble washe established Hickinbotham Winemakers making wine in aggressively assuming theGeelong and promoting the pinot noir grape on the Mornington role of price-slasher, adoptingPeninsula. However, one of his biggest breakthroughs was the slogan: Nobody Beats Danminimising oxidation of wine in small bottles, thus laying the Murphy’s. The glossy, photo-groundwork for the world-wide use of 200ml bottles with Stelvin rich book, written by wineclosures on airlines. writers who knew him, with contributions from family andBUILDING FOR THE FUTURE friends, is available through Dan Murphy stores for $49.99.IT has been more than 40 years in the making and nowBrokenwood in the Hunter Valley is to get its own architecturally- DOMINANT PERFORMANCEdesigned cellar door. RARELY has a sparkling winemaker dominated Australian wine Ground was broken at the Brokenwood site in McDonalds shows as Ed Carr of House of Arras did in 2017.Rd, Pokolbin, last November and the complex is expected to Accolade Wines-owned House of Arras scooped the Best10 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

briefsSparkling Wine Trophy at every Australian capital city wine GOOD TIMES AHEADshow last year. Seven trophies were awarded with House ofArras Grand Vintage 2008 ($79.99) taking out three trophies, WINEMAKERS’ Federation of Australia chairman Andreas Clarkand House of Arras Blanc de Blancs 2008 ($86.99) taking told the 2017 WFA annual general meeting that the Australianfour. “Such endorsement across a broad range of judges is wine sector was well poised to take advantage of good marketan absolute statement of quality,” said Carr, “and the entire conditions in 2018.viticulture and winemaking team is extremely proud of thisachievement.” He noted it was particularly pleasing for House “The dominance of both China and the United States suggestof Arras to be awarded top honours in its home state, winning they will remain a focus for Australian exporters over the next fewBest Tasmanian Sparkling at the Hobart Wine Show. While years,” Clark said. “This is also a principal focus of the $50 millioncool climate-grown Tasmanian chardonnay and pinot noir is Export and Regional Wine Support Package. WFA continues toundoubtedly integral to its quality, Carr believes an equally big build a strong platform for Australian winemakers to improve theirpart of the brand’s success can be put down to the extended profitability. WFA works on behalf of all winemakers of all sizesageing on lees (dead yeast) that he gives his sparklings, and business needs. We have seen another strong performancebetween three and 10 years, in order to build complexity of from WFA this year.” It was announced early in the new year thatflavour. Australian wine businesses exporting to China, Hong Kong, Macau and the US can apply for up to $25,000 in Australian governmentLEGEND OF THE VALLEY funding to support specific export promotional activities. The Wine Export Grants program is part of the Export and Regional Wine FOURTH-generation vigneron Max Drayton, who passed away Support Package, which aims to drive demand for wine exportsin December aged 86, will be remembered as a legend of the and showcase Australia’s wine tourism to the world. AdministeredHunter Valley wine region and one of its staunchest supporters. by Wine Australia, the grant program has $1 million in funding for eligible small and medium wine businesses to claim up to 50 The Drayton name has been associated with the Hunter per cent reimbursement for specific export promotion expenseswine industry since the 1850s when the family established the incurred on or after January 1, 2018. Clark also announced a newBellevue vineyard at Pokolbin. In 1989, Drayton and sons, John, board member in Ed Swift from Printhie Wines in Orange. “Ed isGreg and Trevor, bought out his family members and launched a strong advocate for small winemakers and will be a welcomeDrayton Family Wines. Tragedy struck in 2008 when Trevor addition to the board,” he said. “I would also like to thank outgoingwas killed in a winery explosion. In 2003 Max was awarded board member Redmond Sweeny for his tireless devotion to thethe Order of Australia for his service to the wine industry and industry.” The WFA is a federated board of three committees,in 2007 was named Hunter Valley Legend by Hunter Valley representing large, medium and small members.Wine and Tourism Association.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 11 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E

briefsCUBE ROUNDS OUT A DREAM only and local, interstate and international shipping is on offer. The entire facility is green-tinged with solar energy, water recyclingIT’S been McLaren Vale’s most talked-about project for a couple and the encouragement of natural biodiversity, and tastings areof years - and now d’Arenberg’s Cube is finally open. complimentary. Groups of over eight guests require a booking and incur a $20 tasting fee, while cheese platters are available and The ambitious project, part restaurant, part tasting room, part wine can be purchased by the glass or bottle. Hewitson Wines ismuseum, is a lure for hundreds of thousands of visitors to the open Monday - Saturday 11am-5pm and on Sundays noon-5pmwine region 40km south of Adelaide. d’Arenberg owner Chester at 66 Seppeltsfield Rd, Lot 1, Nuriootpa; phone (08) 8212 6233.Osborn says the opening was “the realisation of a 14-year dream”and the five-storey, $15 million glass-encased steel and concrete THAI THIS ONEstructure - inspired by Rubik’s Cube - has a unique architecturaltwist. The two top floors are askew, rotated on their axis, just as THE Hippocampusif you’d twisted your Rubik’s Cube – which both architects and distillery, bar and cellarbuilders agree made it the most difficult project on which they’ve door has moved acrossever worked. As visitors approach the entrance there’s a haunting the country to Melbourne’sbackground sound, created by a local DJ but the instrument south-east to become partmaking it is a weather station. As the weather changes each of of Boatrocker Brewerseight parameters (temperature, humidity and so on) “talk” to a & Distillers.To mark theunique musical playback system along a range of keys, tones move Hippocampus hasand volume. But it’s inside the Cube where Osborn’s imagination launched Hippocampushas run riot. Guests are confronted by an upended black and Bangkok Gin - awhite bull cradling a polygraph (lie detector) control panel, the collaboration betweenfirst exhibit in what Chester describes as an Alternate Realities Boatrocker Brewers &Museum in which everything has more than one meaning, and Distillers and renownedeverything is wine focused. “I never wanted it to be compared to Thai chef DavidMONA (Hobart’s famous Museum of Old and New Art),” Chester Thompson’s Long Chimsays. “This is, after all, a cellar door, but it’s also an art gallery. team. The new drink,Like MONA there’s a bit of sex and death in here, but it’s really aimed to match with spicyall about wine and alternate realities. Everything has a double or Thai cuisine, is a joint efforttriple meaning.” The d’Arenberg Cube is open daily 10am-5pm. between Long Chim’s James Connolly andA TASTE OF HISTORY one of Australia’s finest distillers, Lex Poulsen ofDEAN Hewitson’s wine business was established in 1998 but he Hippocampus. Connollyonly recently launched its first cellar door. Situated in the heart of the has a fondness for the boldBarossa on historic Seppeltsfield Rd, the Hewitson vineyard boasts flavours of south-east Asiasome of the oldest vines in the world, including some that are dry- and in particular the kaffirgrown and pre-phylloxera. What was formerly a smokehouse has lime leaf. He has long heldbeen converted into a bright space offering a blend of historic a desire for a spirit withcharm and modern decor. There are sweeping vineyard views such tastes, along withfrom various decks and terraces to encourage visitors to take their rich Thai aromatics. Thetime over a glass or two of wine, and there is an open fire duringwinter months. There are several wines available at cellar door12 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

briefsopportunity to work with the Hippocampus team has given birthto the new gin.“To go alongside our rigid backbone of classic ginbotanicals, we selected a trio of botanicals widely recognised asbeing very Thai - Kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass and ginger,” saysPoulsen. “The juniper berries are macerated in spirit overnight toextract plenty of goodness. In the morning, all of the remainingbotanicals are added to the pit and heat is introduced to begindistillation.” The end result is an aromatic, punchy and vibrantgin with pronounced Thai flavours. Hippocampus x Long ChimBangkok Gin, 700ml. ABV 45%. $95. Visit hippocampusmd.com.au/shop.BOOST FOR LOCAL TOURISM and head chef Shane Burke (Barn & Co, Stokehouse, Circa). The new menu will still feature fresh and seasonal flavours thatMITCHELTON Wines has added a new string to its tourism bow complement Polperro and Even Keel wines, while “fosteringwith the opening of The Mitchelton Hotel and Spa at Nagambie, a the ethos of sharing and kinship”. The search for chefs took the90-minute drive from Melbourne. Polperro team worldwide but there was a strong desire to uncover talent on their home turf of the Mornington Peninsula. “Initially when A personal project of caravan magnate Gerry Ryan and his son we put the feelers out to recruit new leaders for our kitchen team,Andrew, the $16 million Mitchelton Hotel and Spa is the most recent we didn’t realise they would be practically on our doorstep,” saidaddition to the family’s spectacular Mitchelton Winery Estate, set on Polperro owner and winegrower/winemaker Sam Coverdale. “Wethe banks of the Goulburn River. Initially planned for construction are really passionate about the quality and depth of experienceat the property’s founding in 1969 - a vision never realised due to on the Mornington Peninsula. There is some unbelievable localbudget constraints - the project has finally blossomed. Developed talent here which we want to foster and highlight. There’s alsoto enhance the facility as a tourism drawcard for the region, the the added benefit of understanding the local produce and ourMitchelton Hotel’s 58 rooms are in a range of sizes. Featuring seasons, which is vital for Polperro’s future direction. We’re excitedspacious rooms adorned with earthy tones, the hotel was designed to provide Michael and Shane with the platform that will allow themto have a relationship with its countryside setting and, in particular, to showcase their talent in the region.” The duo will collaboratethe horse studs around Nagambie. Further drawing on this with winemaker Coverdale on synergy between the vineyard andconnection, the hotel highlights works by Melbourne photographer kitchen at the forefront of the Polperro ethos. The recruitment ofTrevor Mein, commissioned specifically for the space. “The Hotel the new chefs follows the departure of former head chef Danieland Day Spa is something that we wanted to develop early on with Kerekes, who moved overseas.our acquisition of the estate,” said Andrew Ryan, managing directorof the Mitchelton property. “It has always been the missing piecein the puzzle for Mitchelton. The Goulburn Valley and Nagambiehave so much to offer; we have high hopes that the addition ofthe accommodation facility will help attract more visitors to theregion and boost local tourism.” In guest rooms, floor-to-ceilingwindows open on to private terraces with expansive views of theGoulburn River or Mitchelton Vineyard. There is also a 20m infinitypool where guests can embrace the rural setting while sampling one of winemaker Travis Clydesdale’s creations. Executive chef Jess Hayes is at the helm of Mitchelton’s Muse restaurant.HOME GROWN TALENTOVER the past few years, Polperro has become one ofthe most popular gourmet destinations on the MorningtonPeninsula.Polperro owners Sam Coverdale and Emma Phillipshave announced the arrival of executive chef Michael Demagistris(who has worked at Alinea, Chicago and Noma, Copenhagen) March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs cellar door like this. It’s wonderful to think that everything we do at Clover Hill comes from this land and that the cellar door might give us another way to educate wine lovers about what makes the Lebrina site special. We’ve created nooks throughout the space in an effort to foster an atmosphere, and from every point you’re encouraged to look down through the vineyard.”To celebrate the opening, Clover Hill is launching a cellar door exclusive range of six still wines under the Idiom label. Clover Hill, 60 Clover Hill Rd, Lebrina, Tasmania, or visit www.cloverhillwines.com.au.OUT OF THEIR COMFORT ZONE UNIQUELY AUSTRALIANTHE Huon Valley, Australia’s southern-most wine region, got a boost MARGARET River is one of the best-known wine regions in thewith the opening of a new boutique cellar door. world; a magnet for gourmets looking for a uniquely Australian travel experience. Kate Hill Wines, based in a lovely converted country cottageand surrounded by newly-planted vines, was officially opened in But turn the clock back just 50 years and Margaret River wasHuonville in front of a crowd that included family friend Andrew a sleepy country region, with weekend shacks owned by PerthWilkie MP.The tasting room will be open from Friday to Monday doctors and lawyers who shared the deserted beaches with aand offer samplings of wines that range from Hill’s 2011 vintage handful of surfers. Those Perth high-flyers who planted vinessparkling to her Huon Valley pinot noir. The facility is just across back in the 1960s and ’70s were very much ahead of the curvethe valley from Tasmania’s most successful pinot noir producer - as Margaret River’s natural beauty, ocean beaches, superb winesformer Jimmy Watson Trophy winner Home Hill. and gourmet produce has seen it soar to global recognition. Hill and her husband Charles moved to Tasmania in 2006 after Located a leisurely three-hour drive from Perth, Margaretshe spent several years making wine across several Australian River is home to over 200 vineyards and more than 100 cellarregions for Orlando, as well as working in France, California and doors, and is regarded as one of the most sought-after holidayChile. Hill has her own winery in a converted timber shed just down destinations in the country with its remarkable diversity. Massivethe road in Huonville and will continue to source fruit from growers events like the Margaret River Gourmet Festival would have beenuntil her own vines reach maturity. With a young family, they aremaking a leap of faith in selling directly to the public. “We’ve reallymoved out of our comfort zone, but these are exciting times,” shesaid.“We are excited to be offering another experience for localsand visitors to the Huon Valley, and hope we can contribute to thecommunity.” Kate Hill Wines, 21 Dowlings Rd, Huonville, Tasmania.Open Friday to Monday, 11am-4pm.REFLECTING CLOVER HILL’S ‘UNIQUENESS’TASMANIA’S Tamar Valley Wine Route has gained a new cellardoor, with sparkling wine specialist Clover Hill having openedarchitecturally-striking tasting rooms overlooking the vineyardand out to the Bass Strait.Over a year in the making, the CloverHill Cellar Door will also offer a new range of still wines. The neo-modern building sits at the top of Clover Hill’s sloping vineyardand is of rammed-earth construction with recessed floor lightingand tactile materials. Clover Hill CEO Adam Torpy says: “There’sa huge movement in the Australian industry at the moment withregard to landscape integration and impactful designs that reflecta winery’s uniqueness, and I can safely say you’ll see no other14 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

briefsunthinkable when vines were planted at VasseFelix in 1967 and quickly followed by MossWood, Cape Mentelle and Cullen. The historyof the local wine industry has been captured bytwo of Australia's leading wine writers, Perth-based duo Peter Forrestal and Ray Jordan,in the newly-released book The Way It Was.Beginning in 1967, with Dr Tom Cullity plantingthe first vines, the writers use text, photos andtheir own intimate knowledge of the regionto paint a fascinating picture of a WesternAustralian success story. Intriguing charactersand inspiring stories abound, from an obsessivescientist to an ambitious politician and somebrave pioneers. Wine lovers will find it hard toput down. The Way It Was, by Peter Forrestaland Ray Jordan, $39, Margaret River Press.PASSION PAYS OFF A PASSIONATE ADVOCATEA WINE industry insider with an instagram account has turned DON McWilliam, a force in the Australian wine industry overhis passion into a business.The new Yarra Valley Cellar Door in several decades, passed away late last year at the age of 83.Healesville is the brainchild of self-confessed Yarra Valley winelover Ben Mitchell. “In 2014 I started an instagram account to share McWilliam was a passionate advocate of Australian winemy wine discoveries from Yarra Valley cellar doors,” Mitchell says. and for over five decades he dedicated his life to the“I wasn’t paid to promote any of these wineries or wines - I’d just development of the Australian wine industry both domesticallydiscovered a passion for local wine coming out of this amazing, and internationally, particularly the development of the Hunterpicturesque part of the wine world and wanted a single place - Valley wine region, and his passion and namesake, McWilliam’salbeit a virtual one, initially - where everyone could see how cool Wines Group. He was instrumental in the establishment ofthe valley is.” A trip to Heathcote, where one shop was offering McWilliam’s Wines shifting to a premium offering and buildinga range of labels for tasting, sparked Mitchell’s enthusiasm. “The a national portfolio of brands in key wine regions to showcaseidea stuck with me - why didn’t the Yarra Valley have a one-stop the diversity and quality of Australian wine. Through his tirelesscellar door with a bunch of producers on show, on one table?” The dedication and vision he was able to elevate the company toanswer to that question was simple: no one was doing it. So Mitchell be considered by many as one of Australia’s leading familydid. Now that Yarra Valley Cellar Door is a bricks and mortar facility, wine producers. McWilliam was instrumental in establishingMitchell hopes to continue exposing locals and tourists alike to the the McWilliam’s Maurice O’Shea Awards in 1990. This awarddiversity and quality of Yarra wine. The rustic Yarra Valley Cellar celebrates an individual, brand, institute, activity or entity thatDoor is a wine-tasting room with 10 wines from five producers on has brought the same passion and drive for the wine industrytasting. Located in downtown Healesville, it’s a perfect one-stop that he was so well known for. He was active in a number oftasting spot to discover some of the best wines coming out of the key associations within the industry, including Australian Winevalley right now. Pouring the tastings himself, Mitchell draws from and Brandy Corporation, Australian Wine & Brandy Producers’his experience as a former cellar door manager for Giant Steps/ Association, the Australian Wine Board and the Winemakers’Innocent Bystander and sales and marketing manager for Soumah Federation of Australia. In 2003 he was recognised for allto share a combination of winemaking notes and local knowledge. of his efforts and dedicationYVCD is committed to raising the profile of each of the five to Australian wine by beingwineries on tasting: Santolin Wines, Seville Estate, Soumah Wines, awarded a Member of theSquitchy Lane and Warramunda Estate. Yarra Valley Cellar Door, Order of Australia (AM). He is242 Maroondah Highway, Healesville. Open Thursday/Saturday/ survived by his sons StephenSunday noon-5pm. Friday noon-7pm. Groups (maximum 10) by and Chris, and daughterappointment. Purchase a minimum of one bottle and tasting is free. Debra.Otherwise, a $10 tasting fee applies. Phone 0403 908 093 or visitwww.yarravalleycellardoor.com. March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsWINE WITH A VIEW affair, with Rob and Tom’s brother, Nick, a builder, directing the project. The interior and furniture feature locally sourcedTHERE is a new gourmet destination for visitors to East materials, including timber pallets from the winery. “We haveGippsland in Victoria - the Lightfoot & Sons cellar door. Set on sourced reclaimed timber from the old Calulu Bridge over thea bluff overlooking the Mitchell River, the family-owned winery Mitchell River and Gippsland Lakes jetties, along with concrete,and vineyard was established in 1995 by Brian and Helen steel and plywood,” Rob said. “The reclaimed timbers add aLightfoot, who fell in love with the stunning location. Chosen softness to the industrial building, in some ways referencingfor its soil structure - terra rossa over limestone - the vineyard the vineyard and winery itself.” Lightfoot & Sons cellar doorwas planted to grow and supply grapes for other wineries, but is open from 11am-5pm Friday to Sunday. Visitors can enjoyLightfoot & Sons launched their own brand when winemaker the wines with tasting platters of local Gippsland produce andAlastair Butt joined the family business in 2007. Lightfoot & cheese. Visit lightfootwines.com.Sons is now run by two of the Lightfoot sons, businessman andmarketer Rob and winemaker Tom, who share responsibilities GROUNDS TOPS TUTORIALfor operating the business, managing the vineyard and cellar,and producing the wines, along with Butt. All wines are 10 JULIAN Grounds, head winemaker/general manager atper cent estate grown, made and bottled, and reflect the Margaret River winery McHenry Hohnen, was named dux ofMyrtle Point Vineyard and the Gippsland Lakes district. The the 17th Len Evans Tutorial, which was held late last year inLightfoot & Sons’ 2015 Homeblock Chardonnay has gained the Hunter Valley.much acclaim. As dux of the 2017 course, he has been guaranteed judging The cellar door includes a top-floor viewing deck, which sits positions at two of Australia’s premier wine shows - the Sydneyover a cellar carved into the side of the hill, providing natural, Royal Wine Show and the National Wine Show in Canberra. Itclimate-controlled temperatures. Fruit is pressed on the top was noted that Julian judged exceedingly well across the fourfloor and gravity fed through stainless steel tubes into barrels varietal sections and was the equal highest placed scholar onin the cellar beneath. The cellar door fit-out also was a family the Riesling Dissertation. As part of his prize, Grounds will be flown business class to Europe with invitations to visit some of the greatest wine houses in the world. Many of the rarest, oldest and greatest wines were opened on one extraordinary week when 12 younger Australian wine personnel were put through the sternest and most rewarding tastings of their lives. Rarities included two wines from legendary winemaker Maurice O’Shea - a 1954 Mount Pleasant Light Dry White Riesling L54/15 and a 1947 Mount Pleasant Henry 111 Dry Red, and a 1917 Seppeltsfield Para Liqueur Tawny drawn from cask. Scholars came from the fields of winemaking, viticulture, liquor retailing, restaurant, marketing and journalism.16 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

briefsNAME GAMES around seasonal produce and the freshest seafood curated byEMILIA Wines, a small Tasmanian producer has been forced to re- multi-award-winning head chef Michael Cole.“When designing thebrand. Marcus and Gail Burns named their north-west Tasmanianproperty Emilia, referencing the wine region Emilia-Romagna menu I focused heavily on seafood variety and bite-size dishesthat they fell in love with while living in Italy. But Italian producersthreatened legal action if the Burns did not stop using the name that are fresh and delicious, on-trend and exciting, with a few“Emilia”. “We built our house here 15 years ago in the style thatwas typical of a house in Emilia (Italy) and called our property beach apres classics,” Cole said. “Zigis’ menu revolves primarilyEmilia,” Burns said. “Ten years ago we put our first vines in and itwas natural for us to call (the wine brand) Emilia.” Emilia Wines is around our fishmongers’ freshest offerings, caught locally whennow known as La Villa. available, as well as seasonal produce that inspires us.” The drinksCOONAWARRA INSTITUTION list showcases the highlights of the Mornington Peninsula wineONE of Australia’s highest-profile winemakers, Katnook Estate’sWayne Stehbens, died late last year. He was 63. Stehbens had landscape, as well as a few select domestic and internationalbeen an institution on the Coonawarra winemaking scene foralmost 40 years. He made Katnook’s first vintage and headed choices, with local, craft and premium bottled beers and cocktailsthe winemaking team until his sudden death, making him one ofAustralia’s longest-serving winemakers. Over the course of his to complement the seasonal menu. There is a definite Med seasidecareer he received numerous awards and accolades, includingwinning two Jimmy Watson Trophies (1987 and 1998). Greg vibe, with a bespoke bar, crafted from local Flinders Pier timbersClayfield has temporarily assumed the role of senior winemakerat Katnook. set against a backdrop of hand-made turquoise Moroccan fish- scale tiles. Zigis Bar is on the corner of Cook and Wood streets, Flinders. Visit www.zigisbar.com.au. SEASIDE SNACKSTHE Flinders Hotel, one of the coolest chill out spots on theMornington Peninsula, has opened a new bar offering a coastalambience along with “bites, drinks and sounds”.Zigis Bar isimagined as a place to wind down with a drink and small platesdaily from 2pm.It is open late every day and offers live acousticmusic on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Zigis’ menu is centred March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 17

nzbriefswhat’s happening in the NZ wine sceneREAD IT HERE FIRST Matt Dicey, who will be joined by three winemakers making pinot noir in Central Otago as well as another international wine region: PJTwo new additions to New Zealand wine books fulfill very different Charteris is based in the Hunter Valley, Australia, Ted Lemon at Littoraipurposes with the 2018 New Zealand Wines Michael Cooper's Buyer's in California and François Millet of Comtes de Vogüé in Burgundy.Guide (Upstart Press) providing a comprehensive overview of nearly As Celebration Chair Paul Pujol (Prophet's Rock) says, “The chance3000 wines currently on the market. Cooper is one of New Zealand's to learn about the influence that different terroirs have on the samemost respected wine writers with 41 books to his credit and numerous grape and the same winemaker is a great theme to explore.” Pujolawards and accolades, including being appointed an Officer of the adds, “We know that the best place in the world to appreciate CentralNew Zealand Order of Merit. Now in its 27th year, the 2018 Buyer's Otago Pinot Noir is in Central Otago, so bringing pinot lovers to theGuide offers not only reviews and makes cellaring recommendations region has always been our focus.”for each wine, but also draws upon Michael's wealth of experiencein providing detailed information on New Zealand wine regions and HAWKE'S BAY WINERIES ON THE MOVEstyles, vintage charts and cellaring tips plus a 2017 vintage report. Avery useful addition to any New Zealand wine lover's library. It's an end of an era for two historic Hawke's Bay wineries, Vidal Estate and Esk Valley. Both are owned by Villa Maria, who are Lending itself more to the coffee table book genre is Douglas planning a new purpose built facility on the current Gimblett GravelsRenall's first wine book, 100 Great New Zealand Wineries (Bateman). site of another of their labels, Te Awa Winery & Restaurant. TheA selection of personal favourites and classic producers spanning new winery will not only incorporate each of those three label'sten regions with ample photographs throughout, Renall combines winemaking under the one roof, it will also include a joint cellar doorpractical information of contact and cellar door details, varieties where people will be able to buy and taste wines from each of thegrown and signature wines alongside his writing on the various brands under Villa Maria Estate, the first of their cellar doors to doproducer's history and backgrounds, wine styles and other interesting this. A Villa Maria spokesperson stated that \"We are making sure thatobservations and anecdotes. A great gift idea, particularly for wine- all of the brands stay individual and have their own identity under thisloving visitors to NZ as well as those who like to hit the country's new wine making structure. What makes each of the wines individualvarious wine trails. and unique will still feature.\" Vidal's was established in 1905 by young Spanish immigrant, Antony Joseph Vidal and its present site is nowWINE WALKS situated rather incongruously amongst Hastings city suburbia. Esk Valley is located in Bay View, north of Napier and dates back to theSpeaking of wine trails, Central Otago's newest wine trail has opened 1930s. Fans of winemaker Gordon Russell's elegant age-worthyup, though possibly only for those with at least a modicum of stamina. reds will be pleased to know that Villa Maria will be building himThe 4 Barrels Walking Wine Trail covers a very scenic 8km loop and unique concrete vats to replicate those left behind in the move. Andfour Cromwell Basin producers: Aurum Wines, Misha's Vineyard, Scott for those tempted by a piece of Hawke's Bay winemaking historyBase and Wooing Tree Vineyard. The total walking time is usually themselves, it seems likely that due to its Historic Places rating, thearound 90 minutes, so assuming 30 minute stops for each producer, old Vidal winery will be sold as a going concern...it can be completed in around 3.5 hours, all the while enjoying theregion's spectacular local scenery. Three of the producers have MARLBOROUGH AND NINGXIA SISTER-CITYlunch/tasting platter options to help keep energy levels up, or for AGREEMENTthe especially intrepid there are plenty of picnic spots to be foundalongside the Lake Dunstan route. Don't miss the beautifully illustrated After more than 18 months of exchange visits, New Zealand's largesttrail map, designed by South American artists Marcelilla Pilla andLeandro Baud, now resident in New Zealand. wine region Marlborough has signed a sister-city agreement withCENTRAL PINOT CELEBRATION north-central China winemaking region Ningxia, currently the world'sCentral Otago is the place to be for wine lovers in late January fifth largest winegrowing region. The agreement is intended to foster2018, when the country's longest running Pinot Noir celebrationkicks off. From its inaugural event in 2000, the Central Otago Pinot education and business opportunities for both parties, and so farNoir Celebration has grown to be an intense three day event thatcombines - in the inimitable Central style - the raucous with the has seen a Ningxia winemaker spend a harvest in Marlborough,relaxed, wine hedonism with intellectualism, plus plenty of great pinotnoir. Highlights of this year's Celebration are the seminar and tasting exchange students visit the local colleges and budding Chinesehosted by renowned US-based wine writer Elaine Chukan Brown,who will be leading a panel including Oregon winemakers, Adam winemakers enroll in the viticulture and winemaking degrees atCampbell (Elk Cove), Sam Tannahill (Francis Tannahill) and JoshBergström (Bergström); as well as the tasting led by Mt Difficulty's the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology. Marlborough wine technology businesses are also securing contracts with Chinese customers, though it's not just wine that will see the benefits. Courtesy of the relationship, the Marlborough District Brass Band will also perform at the opening ceremony of the Shanghai Tourism Festival, which draws 10 million visitors over a week- a few more than your average New Zealand event! 18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

EST IN CLASB S

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWPRODUCTION PLUNGES AS WEATHER TAKES A TOLLHARVEST reports have been rolling in for the clement months after April, optimism for crop damaged. Overall though, the Bordeaux crop2017 vintage and it’s one that’s seen pretty quality is pretty good, too. However at the is down around 45-50 per cent. That 2016torrid weather during the growing season, southern tip of the region, Beaujolais suffered was the largest Bordeaux harvest in morecovering most extreme events from frost, hail, with hail storms in July, damaging vineyards than a decade is probably no consolation.heat and drought in one place or another. in some crus appellations. The rest of the growing season was fairly normal; August was hot and dry so rain in Overall, in 2017, world wine production It was also the second consecutive year of early September was a welcome watering.fell to its lowest figure for more than 50 frost for parts of the Loire valley. Again, it is so In all, a complicated and heterogeneousyears. The compiler of the data, the OIV damaging when it follows early warmth that vintage, though with some very good quality(International Organisation of Vine and encourages early budburst and growth of being touted in some locales.Wine, an inter-governmental agency working vulnerable, delicate new shoots. This was thescientifically and technically on vines, wines, worst frost since the legendarily devastating Champagne experienced its ownwine-based drinks, table grapes and raisins) 1991. Again, while specific locations suffered challenges: it also had the April frosts, thencalculated global production in 2017 was hard, a generous subsequent warmth of recovery as warmth and dryness set in for247 million hectolitres (mhl), a fall of just season has meant that overall, volumes spring and early summer (May to July). Thenover 8 per cent on 2016 (or 22mhl, twice the are reported as having recovered well, with a wet and humid August brought botrytisproduction volume of China). quality generally looking good. bunch rot to the grapes which meant the crop needed to come in quickly to avoid the Production in the European Union was Even the usually mild, rot spreading too much. The more southerlydown 15 per cent, and as is always the sub-region of the Aube, where a quarter ofcase, weather conditions in the three biggest maritime climate of the Champagne vineyards are planted, mostwine producing countries - France, Italy and of them pinot noir, was less affected by theSpain - are the ones that significantly affect Bordeaux was hit, with August rains.global figures. Severe spring frosts causedwidespread damage in the European spring frosts said to be the Extreme weather of almost any descriptionof late April, especially in France. The also occurred in some part of Italy duringdamage was often especially tough because worst in a generation, 2017. No wonder the country saw theit followed an early, mild spring which biggest drop in volume production, abrought with it an early budburst. Northern also recalling the “meagre” 39.3mhl, and down a huge 23 perItaly was also hit by frost on lower lying land. cent on 2016 volumes. The smallest harvestAll the available frost protection measures folkloric frosts of for 60 years. Nonetheless Italy retains its topwere put into service somewhere or other. producer slot with this figure. In northern ItalyThe supply of vineyard burners (candles) 1991 and 1956. Piedmont had hail to contend with in Aprilran out in France; sprinklers, wind turbines as well as frost settling on those vulnerableand helicopters were all in use, the latter in Even the usually mild, maritime climate shoots. A drought and heatwave followedplaces such as Montlouis in the Loire and St of Bordeaux was hit, with frosts said to be across more of the country that was so hot itEmilion in Bordeaux. The summer then saw the worst in a generation, also recalling the was nicknamed Lucifer. This was the hottestsections of severe drought and heatwave. folkloric frosts of 1991 and 1956. The left heatwave since 2003, affecting countries in bank was not entirely unscathed, but it got southern and central Europe, including Italy, It was the second year in succession that off very lightly. However, the right bank and Switzerland, Hungary and Romania, all ofChablis was hit by frost, but while there was Entre Deux Mers were especially badly hit, which were put on red alert over the summer.just one night of frost in 2016, in 2017 frost although vineyards on higher ground aroundwas protracted over several nights. Chablis St Emilion town itself were largely above the Sicily was particularly badly affected byvolumes are down about 20 per cent from freeze. As always, frost is a story of location, growing conditions, with the estimatedthe average. Despite this, overall Burgundy location, location, so where the higher harvest down more than a third for thisvolumes returned to nearer their normal ground was spared, some of the lower lying important wine-producing island, whichlevels as the frost, which also hit the rest of vineyards lost more, some plots completely typically makes up 11-12 per cent of thethe region, was followed by a sunny growing total Italian harvest. In a productive yearseason with enough rainy spells. With the Sicily alone produces just under half that20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

of Australia. Or very roughly on a par withBordeaux’s production volume. Growing conditions in Spain werechallenging, too, resulting in volumesof 33.5mhl, down 15 per cent on 2016volumes. Drought conditions have beenbuilding over the last three years. Andduring the summer heatwave, much ofsouthern and eastern Spain was also puton alert. Castilla-la-Mancha was particularlybadly affected. The region typically growsaround half the country’s wine. In the northof the country, Rioja had the spring frostsand Spain’s drought, but was not so markedby the heatwave. Given Italy kept the numero uno producerslot, France’s production volume wasinevitably also down significantly - 19 percent in 2017 - finishing up at 36.7mhl. Toput the size of these crop losses in context,the five-year average volumes for Franceand Italy in the decade to 2016 were eachapproximately 50mhl. When you add inSpain’s crop loss, the total volume for thetop three producing countries “not grown”in 2017 equates to 26mhl - or nearly doublethe production volume of Australia. Not every European country had decliningproduction, a few bucked that trend. JustPortugal, on the Atlantic coast, and countriesat the eastern side of Europe - Austria,Hungary and Romania - were those thatsaw increased production, but none arelarge producers compared to the bigthree - 6.6mhl, 2.4mhl, 2.9mhl and 5.3mhlrespectively. In fact these four countriescombined produced about the same asAustralia and New Zealand. The OIV estimated global consumptionbetween 241 and 246mhl, which meansthere’s not much spare wine sloshing aroundthe world. The downside for consumers isthat prices for wine, especially at the entrylevel, are already rising. March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYWARM REDS AND COOL WHITES - GETTING THE TEMPERATURES RIGHTAS we reach the end of another hot summer room temperature. The perception of texture they often need to do in practice for theirand start to look forward to the cooler in wine changes with the temperature. examinations. The only alteration to thismonths, I wonder how much red wine you Warmer wines have a richer texture to policy is sparkling wines which must behave been drinking this summer? Reds them and this is especially important with chilled to open successfully.often take a nose dive in sales during high acid varieties like riesling. Chillingsummer, not surprising given our climate. wine can also get rid of unwanted aromas The optimum service temperatureBut are we doing reds a disservice and and flavours. Traditionally European reds changes slightly for different styles ofsimply not treating them with the care suffered from brettanomyces. To counteract wines. The coolest service temperatureand respect in serving them at the right this fault you can try chilling the wine down is of course applied to sparkling wines attemperature? Chilling a red wine makes as research found that it lessened the 6-8C. Within that band you should considerit eminently more attractive on a summer effect. This is not rocket science as we all the higher end (even up to 10C) for moreevening. Conversely, white wines are often know a smelly cheese left out of the fridge complex and autolytic styles of champagneserved too cold in the heat of summer. becomes even smellier. or older vintage wines.In fact a Wine Intelligence survey foundthat 21 per cent of consumers drink white To maintain the correct Aromatic white wines such as sauvignonwine straight from the freezer in summer. blanc, riesling and gewurztraminer can beWhether it be at home or in a restaurant, temperature always hold chilled, but not overtly. So 8-10C is ideal butwine is generally not served at the optimum nothing below as you lose all the aromatics.temperature. the wine by the stem so Check your refrigerator temperature as the standard set temperature is a chilly 3-4C. Service temperature is worth thinking you don’t warm the wine So you should leave them out for a whileabout and Clare Valley’s Taylors wines have before opening them. You want them coldgone a bit further in highlighting the problem with your hands (difficult and refreshing in summer and a bit warmerby doing some research at the Sydney in winter. Riesling benefits for being servedWine Academy late last year. Around 100 with trendy stemless towards 10C but it varies depending onpeople were selected as a cross section of the amount of residual sugar. With whitethe Australian drinking public and given a glasses) and don’t over wines that have undergone oak treatment,blind tasting of two glasses of Taylors Estate most commonly chardonnay, you shouldShiraz served at two temperatures - one at fill the glasses. only chill to 10-12C and with aged whiteroom temperature (24C) and one at 17C. wines have them around 12-14C. This isSeventy-one per cent preferred the chilled On our courses at the Sydney Wine to appreciate the complexity of the wine.sample and said they would pay more for Academy we serve both red and white You could look at it this way - the more youit. It was also noted that 100 per cent of wines at room temperature, and while we pay for your white wine the less chilled youtasters could not recognise the two wines don’t bring them down to 17C they are should have it.were exactly the same, which goes to show below 20C as our main wine cellar is heldhow important service temperature is. at 15C and they warm up during the class When it comes to red wines you hear much and on pouring. This is done to ensure the talk about serving at room temperature. But There has been other sporadic research aromas of white wines are not masked by that is taken as a London temperature notcarried out on the effects of serving being too chilled and students can more Sydney or Brisbane. Room temperaturetemperature on wine. It is thought that oak easily identify varietal signatures which they are talking about is around 18C. So inaromas can dominate a chilled chardonnay, Australia all reds will need chilling down,while its fruit aromas are more evident at especially in the hotter months. Alcohol at over 20C can start to evaporate22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

and becomes more apparent so that is onevaluable reason why we need to chill ourreds. However tannin and bitterness aremore noticeable on the palate of chilledreds so it can be a fine balancing act. With this in mind light reds with often softtannins and lower alcohol such as somefruit-driven pinot noir, merlot and beaujolaiscan be served around 12-14C. But the morecomplex the wine the warmer it should be.So full-bodied cabernet sauvignon, barolo,aglianico and shiraz should be served at18C which will still appear chilled on ahot day. That leaves styles like grenache,tempranillo and sangiovese. These wouldbe served below 18C but it would dependon their fruit, alcohol, tannin and weight asto what precise temperature would be best. Don’t forget to treat fortified wines withrespect. Dry Fino sherries must be wellchilled 6-8C and a tip I got in the DouroValley many years ago was on a warmnight to drink a chilled glass of 10-year-oldTawny - that was a revelation! To maintain the correct temperaturealways hold the wine by the stem so youdon’t warm the wine with your hands(difficult with trendy stemless glasses) anddon’t over fill the glasses, are two usefultips to remember. Since 2014 Taylors have used thermo-chromatic ink technology on their bottlesin what they call their Optimum DrinkingTemperature sensor. This changes colourdepending on the temperature of the wineso you can check when the wine hasreached optimum drinking temperature.This could be a useful addition applied toall Australian-sold bottles. March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 23

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGSEVILLE A SMORGASBORD FOR THE SENSESI FIRST visited Seville during the Feria de Several now enjoy pilgrimage status, thanks lit up at night. Bookings are mandatory asAbril. The English translation of spring fair is to constant repeats of the TV series, Rick both locals and visitors converge on thea lame description for the colour, vibrancy Stein’s Spain. One of my favourites is Casa atmospheric setting.and joie-de-vivre of really good-looking men Morales, close to the cathedral, a classic mixand women parading on horseback, dancing of burnished wooden bar, career waiters and Spain’s most famous wines - riojas andas if no one was watching and slaking their tinajas (wine jars). The default summer choice verdejos - hail from the north, but Seville’sthirst with sherry diluted with lemonade. is jamon serrano, sluiced down with the local wine bars will extend your palate further.Few people need an excuse to visit this Cruzcampo beer. La Barrica Dulce, a small hideaway nearAndalucian hotspot, but Lonely Planet has Calle San Luis, shines the spotlight onre-focused the world’s attention by naming Many Europeans head to sweet wines from Malaga, long known forSeville the best city to visit in 2018. its fortified wines made from pedro ximenez Seville for the weekend and moscatel grapes. The bar is directly Art and architecture lovers come here for supplied by a family-run winery and there arethe Moorish palaces, ancient Roman ruins just to eat and drink. six types of vino dulce (sweet wine) up forand the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, grabs to enjoy with chorizo, ham or cheese.famously designed to awe the locals during The city’s wine and tapasits construction “because those who see it The Taberna Alvaro Peregil on Calle Mateosbuilt will say we’re mad”. Home to the tomb bars and restaurants are Gagos is a textbook hole-in-the-wall wine bar.of Christopher Columbus, its spectacular In business for 114 years, vino de naranjapresence is rivaled these days by the major draws for locals (orange wine) is a speciality. The originalMetropol Parasol, which claims to be the decor has been preserved intact and it’slargest wooden structure on the planet. and fly-in foodies. standing room only, as in there are no chairs.Dreamed-up by German star architect Jurgen Another treat worth sampling is the fortifiedMayer, the six giant parasols shaped like giant Seville showcases its centuries-long rule strawberry wine.mushrooms were completed in 2011 and the by the Moors with a tradition of flat rooftopsclimb to the top offers the best view of Seville. to enjoy cooler evening breezes. Several Founded by a local chef and an American hotels sport well-patronised roof bars such sommelier, the La Azoteca Vinos & Mas The other building not to be missed is the as the oldest one in the city - the terrace on chain now has four locations across the city.Real (Spanish for royal) Alcazar. It’s dazzling top of the Hotel Dona Maria - a magical place Each one holds catas (wine tastings) andtiled and domed patios and rooms “starred” to be when the cathedral is flood-lit at night. you can enjoy an extensive list of wines fromin Game of Thrones as a stage set for the During summer, the reasonably priced drinks all over Spain teamed with smoked meats,kingdom of Dorne and the slave city of menu is only part of the pleasure as the bar seafood and artisan breads.Meereen. But the blockbuster attraction of the stages thrice-weekly flamenco concerts. Theyear is centred on Murillo. Or, rather the 400th cathedral is also front and centre from the roof Sherry is the major focus at Vineria Sananniversary of the Baroque painter’s birth. A bar at the Hotel Fontecruz, where you can sip Telmo, which boasts one of the mostflurry of major exhibitions and events such your wine or sherry reclining on the deeply extensive list of wines by the glass in Seville.as Cooking in Murillo’s Time will be staged comfortable sofas. The tapas are exceptional value and thethrough to March 2019. wines of the month, selected by owner Juan The definitive view of the Metropol Parasol Manuel, also fall into the bargain-basement Many Europeans head to Seville for the is the magnet at the multi-storey terrace bar category.weekend just to eat and drink. The city’s at the Casa Romana Hotel, which is alsowine and tapas bars and restaurants are Even though it’s a fixture on the tourist trail,major draws for locals and fly-in foodies. El Rinconcillo claims to be the oldest tavern in Spain. Dating back to 1670, it’s an historic vision of walls lined with bottles to the ceiling,24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

tiled walls, hams hanging on hooks and thewait staff chalk up your tapas intake untilyou have decided to call it quits. Perchingon a barrel as you sip a fino is a made-for-Instagram image. Garlochi has achieved global fame asSeville’s most kitsch bar. It goes beyondeclectic with religious statuary from wingedcherubs to myriad versions of the VirginMary juxtaposed with antique bric-a-bracthat looks as if it’s been culled over the yearsfrom Seville’s Thursday market. The housecocktail is Sangre de Cristo (Christ’s Blood)- a challenging blend of whisky, Grenadineand cava, Spain’s trademark sparkling wine. A contemporary take on traditionalSpanish cuisine has been in place fordecades and the torch has been passedto a new generation of chefs in Seville.Restaurante conTenedor started life asan experimental pop-up and has becomeone of the city’s go-to restaurants with anemphasis on slow food, locally sourcedingredients and Andalucian tastes re-castfor a hip audience. The sleek space gleamswith polished concrete floors, eclecticallyselected chairs and an art gallery’s worthof paintings. The menu changes seasonallybut a signature dish is arroz con setas ypato (rice with mushrooms and duck). Thewine list is skewed towards organic andbiodynamic wines from Andalucia. Bar-Restaurante Eslava trumped newgastronomy favourite, La Brunilda, as“the best bar for creative cusine” in 2017.Very narrow and with dining space at aminimum, there seems to be a permanentqueue for the fried sea anemones and- strange as it sounds - ripe cheese icecream. Justifiably so. March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 25

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELMORE ON ANDRE SIMON’S BOOK ON AUSTRALIAN WINEFRENCH-born, English-dwelling doyen of methods are as sound and as meticulous vintage ports had more sediment, andwriters on wine and food, Andre Simon, as those used in any of the great wine- today’s light and fresh young wines barelydid not visit Australia until he was in his producing countries, and that their existed. Simon preferred his wines to beeighties, in 1963-64. He realised that if he industry is backed by scientific research decanted because he would “rather see awere to write a book about Australian wines that in some respects has taken world wine on the table in a fine decanter of purehe had better go there, sooner rather than leadership”. The wines themselves, he white crystal than a bottle: the decanterlater. He certainly made up for lost time. In remarked, “include many that are entitled is an ornament, but a wine-bottle is not;a hot summer and with a hectic schedule to rank among the world’s really fine wines”. a decanter also shows off the colour of awhich would have tested the stamina of But he didn’t name any. He reiterated a wine much better than a wine bottle”. Hemuch younger people, in four weeks he favourite point: the wines “are necessarily has, of course, strong views on glasses.visited all the leading wine-producing Australian wines. They cannot be anything “They must not be coloured when gooddistricts, and inspected vineyards, else. They are members of the great family wine is to be served. And they should bewineries and distilleries. He saw a vintage of wines of the world, just as the men of a fair size” - Simon prefers a five-ouncein progress, took part in numerous tastings who make the wines are members of the glass, which has “more room for my noseand dinners, and talked with scores of great human family. Both the men and the to look for the wine’s bouquet”. He beratespeople, mainly men, who worked in the wines of Australia have characteristics “the miserable miniature glasses which sowine business. His first and only book on of their own which they owe to the soil many hotels and restaurants ought to beAustralian wine, The wines, vineyards and and the sunshine of their native land, and ashamed to use for port and sherry. Theyvignerons of Australia, was published in they have good cause to be proud of the ought to be prohibited by law; a three-1966, shortly after his return to London. name that is theirs”. Perhaps that is one ounce glass is the smallest that shouldEveryone wanted to read it and discuss of Simon’s aphorisms which we should be used for wine, be it still or sparkling,Simon’s sometimes controversial views. remember today: that our wines shouldn’t fortified or not”.Many were disappointed that he did not try to be what they are not - that an Edenhave more to say about current Australian Valley riesling or a Coonawarra cabernet Simon did not write all of the text himselfwines, their quality and nomenclature. sauvignon or a Hunter Valley semillon or a but brought in other experts. EspeciallySimon’s attitude was that he “only wants to McLaren Vale grenache or shiraz is not the valuable were Graham Gregory’s appendixwrite a book if he can write about pleasant same as its European antecedent. on Australian grape varieties and anthings” or, in other words, “if he can’t be appendix on the work of the Australian Winecomplimentary, say nothing”. As we have There is so much that is quotable in Research Institute which quotes extensivelyseen, he rarely commented on the many all Simon’s books, and this one is no from the 1965 annual report. This wouldwines he tasted, preferring just to list them. exception. Here, evocatively, he advises have been written by the director, JCMThis paucity of personal opinion about on serving wine: “When the day dawns Fornachon, “who is acknowledged byindividual wines complemented to some for which every bottle of wine has been oenologists throughout the world as aextent his strong views on, for instance, waiting - that is, the moment when a master and a leader, particularly in thehow to serve wines, and his opposition to corkscrew will remove the cork that has field of sherries”, accurately notes Simon.wine dinners and other occasions when been holding the wine for weeks, months Certainly Fornachon would have had helpwomen were not present. or years - the first question which the host from his deputy, Bryce Rankine, whose has to ask himself is, ‘Decant or not?’.” photo, not Fornachon’s, accompanies the Australian wine men must have been As Simon explains, this was in the days appendix. pleased to learn that Simon found “their when wines such as old reds and old26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

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MAKING THE GRADEA CONCEPT OF MATCHING DAN TRAUCKISPECIFIC REDS WITHINDIVIDUAL CUTS OF BEEF THE Australian wine industry has a longIS THE DRIVING FORCE tradition of forward thinking and is moreBEHIND THE SUCCESS OF progressive than most of the wine world.PEPPERJACK WINES. This encompasses almost every facet, from the vineyard through to packaging. However, rarely over that time have we seen completely new marketing concepts such as the creation of the wine cask. Another new marketing concept and a great example of the industry’s creativity - Pepperjack “Graded” wines - is now creating its own market niche. Wines that have been crafted by Barossa-based Pepperjack Wines to suit specific cuts of beef to maximise the harmony between the meat and the wine. The wines involved are Pepperjack Graded Langhorne Creek Shiraz - crafted to partner porterhouse steak and Pepperjack Graded McLaren Vale Shiraz - crafted to accompany scotch fillet steak. Two more wines made with a broader approach to red meat, as opposed to the specific approach of the “Graded” wines, are Pepperjack Certified South Australia28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon and Pepperjack (off-premise) but rather only in restaurants, The label and laterPremium Cut South Australia Cabernet bars and clubs around the country.Sauvignon Shiraz. The shiraz adds richness the brand has gone onand softness, the cabernet brings structure From the start it delivered masses of flavourand depth to the blend. The different blends for its price as the wines were never made to be one of Australia’scater for the differences in red meats, in the big tannic style that was sweeping theespecially fat content. wine world at the time. Instead they were, favourite red wines, and and still are, softer and more plush styles of These wines add to the brand range - wines which have enough steely backbone has been recognised asPepperjack Barossa Shiraz and Pepperjack to be able to develop and mature in the cellar.Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon. What could well be described as a great being superb value for “each way bet”. Since its launch, the Pepperjack Barossa money.Shiraz has built a reputation, having been Not long after its launch, as its popularityrated as Australia’s number one red wine by and volumes produced grew, it was released grenache and mourvedre), as well as a non-value for the past six years. to the “off-trade”. The label and later the vintage sparkling shiraz. Like the rest of the brand has gone on to be one of Australia’s range, the sparkling shiraz is designed not The “Graded” range of wines was favourite red wines, and has been recognised to be big and brash but rather to be supple,developed in conjunction with Salter’s Kitchen as being superb value for money. slightly softer, smoother and less tannic inhead chef (the winery restaurant at Saltram style. This is achieved by incorporating aWines) with the objective matching the wines Pepperjack winemaker Richard Mattner degree of older material which is held backto porterhouse and scotch fillet steaks. says: “We aren’t going for the bigger more each year. Likewise, the SGM is an elegant,With each vintage chef and winemaker tannic styles of wines, rather for wines that are svelte expression of the blend these threecollaborate to ensure the ongoing fidelity of plush and elegant but with the ability to age varieties can produce.the concept. well. The flavour components we seek are a combination red berry and black berry fruit Adding to the awards that Pepperjack To further round out this wine and food flavours. In order to achieve this we source has won over the years (which includes theconcept, they have produced the Pepperjack grapes from right across the Barossa so as 2016 Pepperjack Certified Shiraz CabernetSteak Journal, a 37-page booklet which is in to add layers of complexity to the final wine.” winning the Best Wine of the Show at thepart an invitation to try/master new recipes as 2017 Great Australian Red Awards), thewell as interviews with some of the concept While most of the fruit for the range still comes 2016 Pepperjack Barossa Shiraz recentlyparticipants - farmer, butcher, chef and from the Barossa Valley, for flavour diversity, scored 4.5 stars and came equal top in itswinemaker. It is in effect a new twist to the fruit is also sourced from both McLaren Vale class in this year’s Winestate Barossa Valleynormal practice of matching wine to food, by and the slightly cooler Langhorne Creek tasting. Likewise, the 2016 Pepperjackpairing wine to a specific cut of steak. region. It is sourced from company vineyards Shiraz Cabernet blend scored 4.5 stars and contracted independent growers, to and came equal top in its class in the Pepperjack started out as a label for a give the winemakers as broad a spectrum same tasting. Equally as impressive, thesingle wine - Pepperjack Barossa Shiraz. It as possible to work from. Pepperjack Sparkling Shiraz was one of thewas first released in 1998 with a two-year- Top 5 finalists in the Winestate Sparkling ofold Barossa shiraz. Initially an “on-premise” Recently two new products have been the Year last year. A great indication of thewine which means it was not sold in retail added to the Barossa range, a SGM (shiraz, on-going dedication to and quality of this iconic Australian wine brand. March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 29

MAKING THE MOST OF A BIG BACKYARDJENI PORTTHE figures, by any measure, are Swan Hill/Mildura, with an emphasis on parts, returned to Australia where heimpressive. Each vintage McPherson the Strathbogie Ranges, and vineyards set up as a wine negociant, selling wineWines winemaker Jo Nash oversees around close by the winery in the Nagambie Lakes into Scandinavia. In 1993 he and good12,500 tonnes of fruit that end up under region. All up there are eight regions and mate Alister Purbrick at Tahbilk went into“lots and lots” of wine brands. many more growers than that to work with. partnership creating wine primarily for export and private labels. How many, exactly? The precise number How are her multi-tasking skills, you ask?of brands momentarily escapes her, but not By way of an explanation, she tells the story However, over the years the direction ofthe reason for them. of starting at McPherson under winemaker the company changed to also focus on Geoff Thompson in 2005, and between the Australian market, where it now enjoys “We’re keen on releasing different labels then and 2012 having four children with growing recognition for labels such as Don’ton to the market quite regularly to keep husband Victor Nash, chief winemaker at Tell Gary, MWC (McPherson Wines Co) andthings interesting,” she explains. Fowles Wines. “In 2012 when Geoff left, Laneway showcasing Central and Western I was pregnant with my fourth child and Victorian wine strengths, particularly shiraz. “We’re a flexible company. We’re all decided ‘this is my chance, I’m going toabout meeting the needs of the consumer, take it,’ and managed to negotiate my way Nash speaks fondly of a wine like theabsolutely.” That means that new brands, through vintage in 2013 with a new-born MWC 2016 shiraz mourvedre blend, a stylenew styles and new thinking are constantly under the desk. It was quite fun actually.” she has made since day one at McPhersonbeing called for. in 2005. “It has fruit from the Strathbogies, McPherson Wine Co was created 50 fruit from Heathcote and it has fruit from The latest “new” thing the experienced years ago by Jock McPherson who, Dookie and locally around here in thewinemaker is looking forward to learning with investors, planted vineyards in the Goulburn Valley,” she explains.more about are alternate grape varieties - Hunter Valley. His son Andrew entered thefiano, vermentino and nero d’avola. wine industry in 1974 and after a slight “We keep it all separate and see how detour building fruit juice plants in foreign much spice from the Strathbogie we can Nash’s winemaking backyard is as big capture, and how much of those lovelyas Victoria, from Sunbury and the YeaValley to Dookie (near Shepparton) and30 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

We keep it all separate and see how much spice fromthe Strathbogie we can capture, and how much of thoselovely savoury characters we can pull out of the Heathcotefruit, and bring the blend together that way.savoury characters we can pull out of He is also a big believer in cabernet she says. However, the going price was toothe Heathcote fruit, and bring the blend sauvignon from those areas, but says hetogether that way.” is realistic enough to know that the grape much and she offered considerably less. It simply can’t compete against shiraz. And, In a fast and furious kind of vintage such anyway, he adds he trusts in the palate of was turned down but a week later the offeras 2016, the winemaker had little trouble his winemaker far more than in his own.capitalising on rich, ripe fruit. was accepted. “Jo is the magic at McPherson,” he McPherson’s Laneway shiraz from 2015 says. “In my opinion she is one of the best “I thought, great, so I’ve got 100 tonnes ofcombines the strength of Central Victorian winemakers in Australia. Not a lot of makersshiraz - medium-bodied and earthy - and can do commercial and premium wines shiraz I haven’t told my boss Gary (Gary is15 per cent of Grampians shiraz with its equally well. She can.”generous pepper and spice. an accountant and McPherson Wines GM). His belief is strong even if Nash did take The 2015 vintage has played a big role matters into her own hands some vintages “I haven’t told him anything about this fruitin the wine, according to the winemaker, back and, thereby, inadvertently createdand is responsible for its noted elegance. Don’t Tell Gary shiraz. Fortunately, it went but I’m just going to pick it. The grower then on to become one of McPherson’s more This is the kind of wine that Andrew celebrated wines. rings up and says he’s got more fruit and it’sMcPherson likes to champion, Rhone Valleyvarieties led by shiraz. The winemaker still laughs at the chain of the really good stuff. I still haven’t told Gary. events leading up to the wine’s creation. “In “Shiraz outstrips everything,” he says, 2014 I was approached by the Hyde Park It’s getting worse by the second.and by concentrating on Victorian regions Vineyard in the Grampians, which is wheresuch as the Grampians, Strathbogies the fruit comes from, and they rang me and “The fruit was really good, and by nowand Nagambie Lakes he believes he said they had 100 tonne of fruit available,”is promoting individual and distinctive I’ve got this cracking shiraz and I haven’tinterpretations of the grape. got any good oak to put it in. So I’m on the phone to Michelle, our accountant, and that’s another $40,000 spent on puncheons. “I said to Michelle, ‘whatever you do, don’t tell Gary.’ And the joke just went on and on.” And when Gary eventually did find out, Gary was happy. March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 31

HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRITS FAIRDAN TRAUCKI The HKIWSF has become one of the 2/ Australian wine – conducted byIn early November each year, the wine world’s major international wine events on Winestate - showing buyers the quality ofworld’s attention is focused on Hong Kong, the show calendar. It has become even many of the Australian wines presented atas that is when the Hong Kong International more important as Hong Kong is now Asia’s the fair.Wine and Spirits Fair (HKIWSF) is held in the regional wine hub ever since the Hong Kongawesomely large Hong Kong Convention government removed all import duty on wine 3/ A flight of wines from Slovenia-and Exhibition Centre. in 2008. This has enabled Hong Kong to demonstrating the quality of wines from become the conduit and storage point for this emerging wine producer. After the Twenty seventeen marked the 10th wine to be shipped to the more challenging masterclass I was given the opportunityanniversary of this spectacular fair, which and smaller markets such as Myanmar, to interview the Deputy Prime Minister ofis organised by the Hong Kong Trade rather than having to ship from the source Slovenia- Dejan Zidan. He advised thatDevelopment Council (HKTDC). Each year country directly in small quantities. the reason Slovenia is not better knownthe Fair attracts an average of at least 20,000 for its wines globally, is because untilserious buyers, as well as other trade visitors Apart from the sales potential, there were recently most of the wines they producedand on the last day consumers. The serious a considerable number of masterclasses were consumed locally. However with thebuyers come from all over Asia and from as conducted on wines and spirits, as well as globalisation of wine- as the world shrinks,far away as the Middle East. The majority of seminars and specific tasting sessions over they are now seeking to export their winesbuyers are from Mainland China; however the three days of the Fair. These included: to countries that appreciate the quality ofthe Fair also attracted good numbers of their wines. Much of their wine is made frombuyers from Malaysia, Taiwan, Indonesia, 1/ Attractiveness and Characteristics of “mainstream” European varieties but theyVietnam, Korea, Cambodia, Myanmar and Japanese wine- highlighting the subtle also have some rarer/lesser known varietiesJapan who were all there specifically to look differences of the wines made in Japan, such as Rebula in the whites and Refroscofor new products to add to their portfolios, especially from the native varieties such as in the reds to give them a point of differencethus making this fair an excellent venue for Koshu in the whites and Bailey Muscat A from other bigger European wine exporters.Australian wineries to find Asian distributors. in the reds.32 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

Slovenia’s aim is to export at least 20% and liquor ancillary products such as wine taking into account the massive potentialof their production this financial year, and aerators, spirits measures etc. The spirits of Hong Kong itself, along with the value ofas part of their current export strategy they presence is massive, but as we are focused per litre/bottle of exports to these countriesare turning to Asia to seek new markets. on the wine side of things, I can report that rising, there has never been a better time forWhilst focusing on Hong Kong and China, the wineries represented on the Winestate Australian wineries to “show their wares” tothey are also interested in smaller but stable stand for the 10th anniversary HKIWF were: Asia and no better venue than at the Hongmarkets such as Australia. Last year they Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair.exported 14 million litres of wine and are Amadio Wines- Adelaide Hills, Brygonaiming to grow these volumes this year and Reserve Wines- Margaret River, Caught Red The HKIWSF is a crucial Asian wine fairinto the future. Handed Wines- McLaren Vale, Eccentric that Australian wineries should embrace, Wines – Emerging Varieties, Adelaide Hills/ as we work our way up to being the number Slovenia is only a small country of around Clare Valley, Greenock Estate- Barossa two, or even number one wine supplying2 million inhabitants- half of Melbourne’s Valley, Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy- nation to the various countries in Asia (wepopulation. They are determined group Adelaide Hills/McLaren Vale, Haselgrove are already number 2 in China, the biggestof long term survivors who have survived Wines- McLaren Vale, Hoggies Estate - market in Asia). HKIWSF should be essentialmany invasions over the centuries, as they Coonawarra, Leabrook Estate- Adelaide for those wineries that want to enhance theirare surrounded by much larger countries. Hills, Mt Cathedral Vineyards – Upper presence in the Asian market, or even breakAlong the way they have become one of the Goulburn, Santolin Estate- Yarra Valley, in to Asia in the first place. The marketingbetter performing economies in Europe. In Tomich Wines – Adelaide Hills, Totino Estate- exposure at this fair is invaluable and it is anmy opinion, they are worth looking out for Adelaide Hills. amazing event. So let’s get more exhibitorsas I believe that they will become a growing to next year’s Hong Kong International Winepresence over time. Given that Australia’s Free Trade and Spirits Fair, and ramp up our wine march Agreements are in the process of “kicking into Asia, it really is worth the effort to attend The Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits in” with three of the biggest wine markets one of the best wine Fairs in the world.Fair also encompasses spirits, beer cider in Asia, China, Japan & Korea, as well as March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 33

winestatepromotionPHILOSOPHY HISTORYLindsay Wine Estate is the journey of Will Bolton and Matt Dunning, Lindsay Wine Estate is a new brand but with a heritage that is steepedtwo mates who share a passion for music, art and wine. Will and in Australian artistic history. Lindsay Wine Estate is named after theMatt have combined all three of those passions into “LWE” – a brand great Australian artist Sir Lionel Lindsay. Lindsay’s works admirednew modern- yet -rustic cellar door that boasts private tasting and the early Australian pioneers who explored and worked the land. Inentertainment areas, art history and plenty of space for the kids the 1940’s Sir Lionel formed a friendship with Bill Bolton. Bolton wasto run around, and did we mention a vinyl collection of over 3,500 drawn to Lindsay’s artistic vision of early Australia. Bolton quicklyrecords? At Lindsay Wine Estate we encourage you to kick back and became an avid collector of Lindsay’s work. Prior to his death in 1973relax to some of your favourite tunes with a glass of our finest in hand. Bolton’s collection was donated and founded the Lionel Lindsay Art Gallery in Bolton's home town of Toowoomba, in Queensland.34 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

Today in the Barossa Valley, Bill Bolton’s grandson Will and his Address: 15 Vine Vale Road, Tanunda, SA, 5352business partner Matt Dunning have carried on this interest in Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8563 3858Lindsay’s work. Drawing upon the pioneering spirit captured inLindsay’s paintings, Will and Matt have created a premium range www.lindsaywineestate.com.auof estate-grown wines and a unique cellar door experience.WINEMAKINGA wine maker with 18 years experience in the Australian WineIndustry and a degree in Environmental Management, Matt has agreat understanding of what is required to make premium wine.His experience across the industry is broad having managed thevineyard, production and cellaring, warehouse control, cellar doorand national and international sales. Over the past 5 years Matt hasconcentrated on winemaking for the international market, whichhas focused on the Asian market. Matt has a passion and full understanding of all things wine. Withan eye for the right grapes through to the required winemakingprocess, Matt ensures what ends up in the box is perfection. Mattprides himself on being results orientated. His many years in theindustry and experience across all mediums of the winemakingprocess, has meant he has a large network of resources andcontacts to draw upon. Matt’s hands on approach and understanding of “Barossa” fruit isreflected in The Lindsay Collection and the newly launched luxuryLindsay Wine Estate range. A true expression of grape and terriorcreating wines of excellence in every bottle.SUCCESSOur commitment to judging success is more about seeking ourdirect customer’s feedback and opinions. Our best reviewer isyou! But as a growing business we have sought a few third partyreviews with great success. Our 2015 Selector Shiraz from theBarossa Valley is proving to be one of our most highly awardedwines, picking up a of “Wine of the Year” finalist in 2017 and aflurry of 4.5 stars including one of the Best New Releases for 2017from Winestate magazine. Our Luxury range includes our 2014LWE Shiraz which received 5 stars in 2017 for the China Year Bookpremium submissions. Our awards and recommendations across our wine portfolio aresomething not to be sniffed at, but our ears will always be fine tunedto our customers opinions first and foremost! It’s a proud momentwhen you offer a wine made with passion and integrity and yousee that mirrored in your customers expression.OUR HOMELindsay Wine Estate is in the heart of the Barossa Valley and lendsitself to every occasion. Whether you’re looking for an intimate,educational wine tasting for two or larger gathering of friends wecan accommodate it all. Our lawns are a great space for childrenand dogs. Home of the LCG, Lindsay Cricket Ground, many sunnydays have been spent watching the players dash between wicketswhilst enjoying a wine. Our Alchemy deck is a space to linger andis fitted with it’s own custom built wood fired pizza oven. Did we mention the cellar door boasts over 3,500 vinyl records tokick back and listen to while our cellar door team take you througha celebration of the artistry of wine! No matter what the event style, size of the gathering or climate wehave a space to make your Lindsay Wine Estate experience perfect. Cellar Door daily – 11-5 [email protected] March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 35

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSJOLLEY’S Boathouse is yet another of for lunch Sunday to Friday, dinner Monday space perfect for autumn dining. This isthose Adelaide restaurants that have to Saturday; phone (08) 8223 2891. dining the Italian way, with lots of sharedquietly, unassumingly clocked up 30 dishes many of which feature hand-made,years, but Jolley’s has more of a story Like Jolley’s, Stone’s Throw enchants locally sourced produce, including thethan most because its roots extend back with a conservatory-style dining room but Saturno family’s cured Italian cold cuts.into the very formative days of Adelaide’s without a river to look on to. With its high- Antipasto dishes might include roastedrestaurant scene. pitched, glass roof and doors opening on broad beans and chick peas with rosemaryBack in 1977, when Adelaide had few to a green-encased courtyard, this is more and chilli salt or grilled asparagus with anrestaurants worthy of the name, a rather of a suburban oasis and wonderful on a artichoke and garlic dip, while main coursesspecial “home dining” restaurant was summery day. might include in-house smoked chickenwinning high praise - Belinda’s Restaurant, with pancetta and a tomato and green oliverun by Belinda Hannaford. It had just one With its narrow frontage, Stone’s Throw sauce, and a fresh green pea salad withtable, seating 12 guests. Within a year at first looks like a narrow bar, attractive basil, mint and red wine dressing. There’snational wine identity Len Evans wrote enough but giving little hint of what lies usually a selection of three desserts - tryabout a “tiny restaurant that serves only beyond as it expands into a wide dining the Aperol jelly shots with prosecco ice andone table. The food is so good, quite the room, all in unrelenting Spartan white, from raspberries, and a cheese course to finish,best I’ve had in Adelaide.” A decade later, floor to chairs and ceilings. There’s plenty perhaps Parmigiano Reggiano with freshHannaford managed to acquire the lease of of colour, though, in head chef Quentin fruit. Longview Vineyard, 154 Pound Rd,a tumbledown boatshed beside the Torrens Whittle’s eclectic menu that borrows from Macclesfield. Open 11am­-5pm daily; phoneRiver in the heart of the city, which included many food cultures with rare confidence (08) 8338 9694. a kiosk selling ice cream and hot dogs. That and ease. Thickly-cut Port Lincoln kingfishwas the start of Jolly’s Boathouse which, sashimi sits next on the menu to chargrilled Top: Duck from Jolly's Boathouse.under new owners, would evolve into one of local octopus with a thick, charred tomato Middle: Pippies from Jolly's Boathouse.Adelaide’s most celebrated restaurants. A vinaigrette, while fried zucchini flowers Bottom: Interior of Stone's Throw restaurant.review in 1989 recorded: “Jolley’s Boathouse stuffed with fontina and porcini are listedis one of Adelaide’s perfect places in which next to an elaborate, towering green mangoto lunch on a sunny day or dine romantically salad, a cornucopia of colour and flavour.on a steamy night, perhaps seated on a A stand-out dish is the chargrilled Barossaterrace overlooking floodlit river banks.” It chicken, given an Asian-style treatmentstill is. This is where you can get a bird’s eye with fresh turmeric, kaffir lime leaves andview of the life of ducks and other creatures, grilled snake beans. This is confidentsome of them human, beside the still waters cooking, each dish coherent and authentic,of the Torrens where the peace is only though vastly different to its neighbour.faintly interrupted by the distant exertions of And of course there’s that bar at the frontjoggers pounding past. Diners are thankfully for before or after drinks. Stone’s Throw,shielded from the exertions, but not the view, 127 The Parade, Norwood. Open for lunchby floor to ceiling windows surrounding three and dinner Tuesday to Sunday; phone (08)sides of the restaurant. Executive chef Tony 8333 1007.Carroll, now in his 16th year at Jolley’s,consistently turns out exemplary dishes Leading Adelaide Hills, family-owned-that tread the sometimes-difficult-to-manage and-operated wine company Longviewfusion of classic European technique with Vineyard has turned the traditional notionAsian ingredients and flavours. Start with of a wine experience on its head withfreshly-shucked Angasi oysters from Coffin the opening of two purpose-built tastingBay before moving on to entrees such as venues that includes a new Italian-stylesteamed Goolwa pippis or caramelised pork long Sunday lunch.belly with green papaya. No-one has had theheart to tell the river-dwelling ducks that one And it’s the lunch that really does set thisof Carroll’s best dishes is the tea-smoked cellar door apart from the rest, a multi-courseduck, currently served with red dates, feast that draws on the Italian heritage ofginger caramel and stir-fried Asian greens, the Saturno family. As joint owner Markwhich never leaves the menu. Jolley’s Saturno says: “It’s the way our NonnaBoathouse, Jolley’s Lane, Adelaide. Open used to cook for us.” Surrounded by natural stone, recycled metal and timber, black steel framed windows and with a deck overlooking some of Longview’s oldest vines, this is a great indoor-outdoor dining36 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018



brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELTHE hilly and charming inner city suburb of expanded but is still unashamedly French is a place, a people, a history, a climate,Paddington, just west of the Brisbane CBD, and new world French varietals. 1/30 King an architecture. But it is also a mood,lost the jewel in its culinary crown in late St, Bowen Hills; phone (07) 3367 0030. a feeling, a spirit…a state of mind.”2017 with the departure of Montrachet, a The website goes on to say, “Little Bigquintessential French bistro that occupied For residents of Paddington, there’s House encompasses the rich history,a pretty little shop on the main street for a new kid on the block. Margo opened the vibrant energy and the relaxed sunover a decade. where Montrachet once was to an soaked lifestyle that is Queensland.” Part appreciative crowd. of the Solotel Group, the menu is divided Lyonnaise-born chef Thierry Galichet between little and big feeds, there’s acreated the bistro offering traditional It’s the first venue for Americo Fernandes, rotisserie in play and there’s also karaokedishes tempered to align with the balmy a Paris raised and trained chef of Portuguese but nothing that would make you returnQueensland climate. Shannon Kellum descent. He arrived in Australia in 2004 for a second visit and certainly nothingbought the popular spot from Galichet and has amassed an impressive resume that would exclusively link the offerin 2016 and kept the offering largely the of experience that includes Urbane and with that of the Queensland sensibility.same with the exception of Friday nights, The Euro, C’est Bon, Bacchus and Malt Rather the baseline Aussie venue foundat which he showcased his more modern Dining. Young, keen and produce driven, in every city on the eastern seaboard. 18approach to French cuisine. Fernandes says he takes a global approach Southpoint, 271 Grey St, South Brisbane; to the incorporation of both the classics and phone (07) 3727 3999. Paddington’s loss is the new King St gain a more contemporary approach to menuwith a bigger, brighter Montrachet opening writing. Of the eight-ish entrees on offer both Top: Hot smoked salmon salad, cos lettuce, zucchini,just before Christmas in purpose-built the duo of scallops with curry, asparagus, $20, from Little Big House.premises at the new Ekka showground- and corn and basil oil as well as the zucchini Middle: Pouring Champagne at Montrachet.adjacent precinct, that is promising to veloute with squash and housemade goat’s Bottom: Montrachet bar.become the newest eat street in town. cheese stand out. Moreton Bay bugs areAnd while some of the old world charm dressed simply with piperade and fleckedof being housed in a lovely old shopfront with chorizo; the lamb rack arrived with amay have been lost in translation to the smoky babaganoush and an aromatic garlicspanking new premises, Kellum’s attention cappuccino and for those looking for theto detail has ensured the experience is comptoir classic, it’s all good - the steakno less authentic. There’s a new element frites remains on the menu.of grandeur about the place starting withthe giant double-height doors, banks of Desserts are an exercise in herb-infusedmirrors and large feature lighting as well as experimentation and reverence to time-the patina that only comes from seasoned honoured combinations and techniques -European oak, salvaged from an English think rosemary creme brulee with orange andbarn and reborn as character-filled flooring. almond biscotti, peach marquis with tarragonThe comptoir retains some of the familiar meringue. The wine list is clever and rangesstyle, only this one is topped with impressive around the old and new worlds. Deliciouslooking emperada marble and leads into a little drops like Chateau de Castelnauwalk-in wine cellar. Leather covered seating Picpoul de Pinet 2016 perfectly match the(supplied by the furniture makers who also elegant flavours of the food. 224 Given Tce,created the original Montrachet fit out) this Paddington; phone (07) 3367 1516.time around sport burgundy hues replacingthe vivid red of old. The footpath dining was He started his foray into Queensland with aalways on a slight slope but not anymore. formal offering - a second Aria on the river atSeating is now about doubled thanks to the Eagle Street Pier but since then Sydney-the all-new alfresco dining space adjacent. based chef and restaurateur Matt Moran has been progressively dumbing things down. For those addicted to the Montrachetclassics - the twice baked souffle of crab The website introduces the venueand gruyere, duck confit and the steak with a quote from writer and formerfrites, fear not, they all still appear on the Queenslander John Harms. “Queenslandexpanded menu alongside classics likeroti d’agneau with pickled spring onion,cassoulet de legumes in a mushroom brothand seafood bouillabaisse. Degustationmenus of four or seven courses are also onoffer for full tables and the wine list has been38 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

Need a big shipping line,or just a really good one?Yes!‘The bigger the better’ does hold true in shipping. Larger ships,more containers, more services, strong long term investmentand operational stability are all good things. But performanceexcellence is also qualitative, and by any measure Hamburg Südis a high-quality carrier. Our specialised experience andpersonalised service set us apart – while size helps to sustainthe broad scope of our professionalism. Hamburg Süd.Everything you need, in depth.No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com 39 March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINTHE inner-north of Melbourne gets a spices and the earthy chicken. Drinks by the team also behind the Marquis ofvegetarian pub, an old-school pub gets a include a creative cocktail list - the Archangel Lorne in Fitzroy - Will Benjamin, Matt Vero,makeover in the south-east and one of our is a straightforward mix of Plymouth gin, Callan Hitchens. The trio has joined forcesfavourite chefs opens her first restaurant. As Aperol and cucumber, while the Kingdom with chef Sean Donovan, who owns andalways, Melbourne dining is on the move. and the Beauty sees Maker’s Mark, Amaro operates the Fitzroy Town Hall hotel. They Montenegro, lemon, passionfruit, Martell fitted out the old girl, built in 1853, with Chef Jerry Mai has opened her first VSOP and apple juice slurried together. The loads of woods, retro paraphernalia andrestaurant proper. The chef who owns and wine list is a smart list of aromatic whites and comforting spaces that allows locals andoperates city lunch haunt Pho Nom, earned lighter-style reds designed to complement visitors a perch for the cricket or footy - in theher stripes working for names like David the spice. 56 Little Bourke St, Melbourne; front bar, at least - and selection on the menuThompson at Nahm and Geoff Lindsay at phone (03) 9654 6627. that will keep all ages sated. The bar menuPearl, and after the success of her Pho includes a dressed chicken and watercressoutlets, she opened Annam on Little Bourke You won’t find a chicken parma or a rump sandwich, and a blue cheese and leekSt where the Japanese restaurant Kunis steak anywhere in the Green Man’s Arms tart. The counter meal section is all aboutused to sit. Mai has based her menu at in Carlton. Right on the corner of Elgin and burgers, a minute steak with chips and anAnnam on the Vietnamese and Cambodian Lygon streets, its prime position used to egg or a chicken schnitzel. The dining roomdishes she ate growing up but her time with be home to Percy’s Bistro and The Astor, and lounge area, with its original fireplace inThompson sees some Thai influences, too. where The Roving Marrow once operated. tact, has some textured flourishes such asAnnam has quickly become a favourite But when new owners Alison Whyte tartan, tiles, carpeted areas and upholsteredamong families and city dwellers looking for and Fred Whitlock moved in, they gave seating. Donovan’s dining room menu has acomforting, seasonal fresh flavours swiped the space a refit, warming it up with retro rotisserie section; try and go past the half-with a broad Asian brush. Don’t expect finishes, parquetry flooring, wall panelling chook with Tuscan-style tomato and breadbig whacks of chilli or obscure, unfamiliar and a green leafy wallpaper that could salad, and all the steaks on the menu areingredients, Mai wants you to feel at home. have come from your Aunty Peg’s house served with hand-cut chips and a choiceShe’s done this not just in the menu but in a in 1972. Whyte and Whitlock - an actress of pepper or bearnaise sauce. The drinkswelcoming dining room dressed in blacks, and teacher respectively - moonlight as list is varied and broad to satisfy fussy winereds, mirrors and comfy seating. There’s pub owners, they had The Terminus in lovers and those seeking a quiet spot at thealso a screen projecting old black-and- Abbotsford for many years, so they know bar. 420 High St, Prahran; phone (03) 9529white Kung Fu movies. Be sure to try the their stuff. Deciding to open a vegetarian 8250. sarsaparilla-braised oxtail dumplings with a pub was a natural progression to them andsticky, sweet, salty sauce that should be sold is a right fit in Melbourne’s inner-north as Top: Interior of Annam restaurant.by the bottle. A meaty fillet of fresh Cobia it becomes heavily populated with veggie Far Left: Braised Pork Hock from Annam restaurant.is marinated in miso paste and roasted, its and vegan eateries. They’ve employed the Middle & Above: Drinks and smoked mackerel fromsalty flesh lifted by slabs of pickled kohlrabi, skills of Israeli-born head chef David Raziel, Annam restaurant.and the ever-present salt-and-pepper squid whose menu of vegetarian and vegan dishesis given the Mai treatment with cuttlefish includes his heritage’s staples of tabbouleh,fried in a batter of Sichuan-pepper and rice house-made falafel and hummus. House-flour. Its crunch works beautifully against the made cous cous is another highlight, andnumbing heat of the peppers. you may also find a grilled salad of beets, red cabbage, onions, almonds on Labneh Mai has long utilised the produce of local with pomegranate or perhaps, a CatalanVictorian farmers and she takes a Milawa dish of eggplants, peppers and onion withchicken and cooks it into her Jungle Curry, Romesco sauce. As many of the ingredientsa jumble of fresh vegetables, mild, complex as possible come from Whyte and Whitlock’s 4ha property in the Yarra Valley and their drinks list includes seven beers on tap, next to a tap dedicated to Bucha of Byron kombucha. With the couple’s collective background in the arts they are also planning live music and book readings along side the ever-evolving veggie menu. 418 Lygon St, Carlton; phone (03) 9347 7419. Another refurbished pub on the other side of the city has meat and more meat. The Mount Erica in Prahran in the city’s inner- south-east has been bought and refurbished40 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

“Consistently good & remarkable value.” Huon HookeJAMES HALLIDAY AUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANIONCHARDONNAY • PINOT GRIS • RIESLING • SAUVIGNON BLANC • ROSÉ • C ABERNET MERLOT • SHIRAZ• PINOT NOIR • HANDPICKED CHARDONNAY • HANDPICKED SHIRAZ • HANDPICKED PINOT NOIRThe wine experts agree, these award-winning wines are modestly www.cookslot.com.aupriced and exceptional value, from a boutique, family-owned winery.Winemaker Duncan Cook exemplifies the cool climate of Orangewith fruit sourced from individual vineyard lots, handcrafting thewines with minimal intervention to exemplify the vineyards’ terrior.

hong konggrapevineLUCY JENKINSONE thing Hong Kong is not short of is on the dishes - but don’t let that put you banquettes, elaborate artworks, dimJapanese restaurants. Sushi, sashimi off. Try the extremely extensive sake list, lighting and a very healthy gin selection.and sake flow in unstoppable quantities including Okra’s own brand just in time for Those familiar with London’s dining scenein almost every shopping mall, grand Year of the Dog and make sure you save will note that chef Palash Mitra was headhotel or casual street corner, showing room for the unusual dessert - Cookie of the Michelin-starred Gymkhana, whichHong Kongers have a serious and very Boy’s roasted green tea and red bean still has a devout following in Mayfair.real obsession with all things Japanese. cookie with smoked cream and lemon salt Chicken korma and tikka masala you will is just the ticket after all that umami. Okra, not find. Instead, expect hearty appetisers Okra brings something very different to G/F, 110 Queen’s Rd West, Sai Ying Pun; and mains you may never have heard of.the table. No nigiri or maki to be found but phone +852 2806 1038, www.okra.bar. Murgh tikka anga - chicken marinated inwildly inventive dishes such as unagi (eel) yoghurt and spices, masalewali chanpon triple-cooked sushi grade rice, roasted Party district Lan Kwai Fong’s Wyndham - lamb chops with beetroot korma andbrussel sprouts with homemade XO St often evokes a certain wry response tandoori, machli - cobia fish with tomatosauce, in-house made tofu in black pigeon from people who feel they’ve been in Hong chutney. They are all worth the perhapssauce and surprisingly delicious toast Kong long enough to start making scoffing steeper-than-expected prices ($HK200,made with goose blood, not to mention dry remarks about the area they all flocked to $A32 plus for mains). New Punjab Club,aged tuna. The man behind the madness when they first moved here. Yes, Hooters World Wide Commercial Building, 34is Max Levy from New Orleans, who has is there, along with bars which advertise Wyndham St, Central; phone +852 2368arrived in Hong Kong from Beijing where gold-flecked vodka shots and other forms 1223, www.newpunjabclub.com.he ran the “mothership” restaurant of of late night expat entertainment, but amidOkra 1949. Big on bold flavours, beanies the thumping music and neon shisha After a lull, the well-loved Italianand rare bottles of sake, Levy has pipes stands a man wearing Punjabi restaurant Papi is back in the upmarkettransformed his little patch of Sai Ying regimental uniform (minus the rifle). He location of Causeway Bay’s FashionPun into a seriously good local hangout is standing guard over the New Punjab Walk. Benjamin Lung of other Italianwhere minute two-seater tables cram into Club, one of the newer openings from the outfits Isola, Gaia Ristorante and Va Benea small but lively space. It seems to be Blacksheep Restaurant group. It models heads it up and previous Papi fans willa prerequisite that all the staff need also itself on “post-colonialism” so it has all the find comfort in a similar style as before -be attractive as well as knowledgeable trappings you would expect - deep leather accessible, affordable and high-quality Italian food. With an emphasis on small plate sharing, a format that popularised the restaurant a few years back, the menu features over 15 Italian small dishes to share, from pan-fried Hokkaido sea scallops with white wine and fregola, to Florentina stewed beef tripe, grilled whole calamari and black truffle and gorgonzola cheese pizza. Set in colourful tones of bright blue and orange, the two-storey location is all about fuss- free, unpretentious dining, celebrating classic and comforting Italian dishes in a family-friendly atmosphere. Hong Kong definitely needs more of this. Papi, G/F, 8 Cleveland, Fashion Walk, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; phone +852 2808 0820, www.papi-hk.com. Top Left: Food from New Punjab Club. Top Right: Food from Okra restaurant. Bottom: Food from Papi restaurant.42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

ORCHID WINE ESTATE 30 YEAR 酿造经验AUSTRALIAN WINE BRAND OPERATOR We select premium wines & resources S WINE MAKING 30年的葡萄酒 BOTTLING澳洲唯一码头灌装 HARBOUR &出口中心 BAROSSA BLICKINSTAL 巴罗莎山谷葡萄酒 体验基地 TANK by Orchid Wine 新媒体及线下体验门店WINE TOURISM IN BAROSSA VALLEYWINE BRANDING & MARKETINGOVERSEAS WINE MARKET PROMOTIONWINE PACKAGING AND LOGISTICEXPORT AND CHINA CUSTOM CLEARANCE +61 8 8410 4635 www.orchidwine.com.auBAROSSA BLICKINSTAL EXPERIENCE CENTER | 261 Rifle Range Road, Barossa Valley, SA 5352

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGIN a strange twist of fate, Ete (French for with foie gras, sauce gribiche and anchovy plate lineups. Refined comfort food is thesummer) finally opened in December during toast. Make sure you have the duck advised athe appropriate season. Originally the debut friend who dined at Ete a week earlier. A solid best label for most dishes such as peppereddate was in the autumnal month of May last gold tip I would pass on to anyone. Out cameyear. It was worth the wait for the Barangaroo the juiciest duck breast in a sumptuous setting mackerel, grapes and celery, and the nowwaterfront restaurant, helmed by fine dining of radicchio, orange and sauce bigarade. Formaestro Drew Bolton (ex-Aria, Quay and all their haute cuisine pretentions, the French ubiquitous chicken liver parfait, port jelly andVine). In spite of his upscale cred, Bolton love a good steak and rightly so, especiallyviews his latest enterprise as the antithesis of when the juices run free as they do from Ete’s toast. A thread that keeps going througha big night out dining experience and insists cote de boeuf with young garlic, pommesthat the French-inspired eatery walks the fondant and sauce bordelaise. Sweet tooths mains, including pork belly, poached peachdividing line between bistro and posh. There’s can sample all the desserts by ordering thecertainly plenty to spark regular visits. Like his assiette mignardise. Our spoons were put and black cabbage, pea risotto with spannercounterparts in France, Bolton is dedicated to good use with the vacherin, rhubarb andto putting a modern stamp on classic Gallic fromage blanc - a melting blend of meringue, crab, seaweed and chives, and the signaturedishes. To attract the corporates who people fruit and cream - and cold chocolate fondant,the surrounding office buildings there’s a plat- pear and lavender ice cream - right down to dish of roast spatchcock, mustard anddu-jour which changes weekly. But the real scraping the plates clean. Another triumph forpull for winelovers, for lunch and dinner, is the Bolton and his team and not to be missed. Ete caraway roasted carrot and kale. There’s afact that you can sample every bottle on the Restaurant, 100 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo;extensive wine list by the glass, thanks to the phone (02) 9052 5383. spiffy nursery feel to dessert (Lowry is English)Coravin, the handy gadget which allows you topour wine without pulling the cork yet prevents The business partnership at Culina et and it was a pleasure to see treacle tart withoxidation. A particular drawcard for French Vinum is made in restaurant heaven. Chefbottlings, including burgundies, mistelles Naomi Lowry has worked at Sydney hotspots buttermilk sorbet and lemon balm amid theand Alsatian rieslings. Seasonality is a given such as Pilu and Popolo and Abhinavat a restaurant named after one. There’s (Abhi) Mahudevan is the son of Kumar short lineup. Grandma’s scones with ricottaseating inside and out, and it’s hard to choose Mahudevan, the godfather of Indian cuisinebetween the great outdoors and the post- in Sydney, and owner of the famed Aki’s and and mascarpone showcased the fact that themodern interior designed by Foolscap Studio Abhi’s restaurants. Surrounded by the grandalso featuring murals by Chicago-based artist, apartment blocks of Elizabeth Bay Rd, Studio dish was inspired by a nanna who liked theJohn Zabawa. A “live” wall is a showcase for Messa has performed a brilliant design feat byfloral and produce displays. The listings begin making what could be a dark space into an finer things of life. Thirty wines by the glasswith a five-course chef’s menu. But we kicked oasis of light. But the real magnet is the warmthoff an a la carte meal with oysters piqued by of the staff from the moment you walk in, which and a curated selection of European andan Aussie-inspired lemon myrtle mignonette. makes it easy to relax even before you haveSeafood also proved to be irresistible when looked at the menu. It’s become common Australian bottlings complete the Vinum partit came to entrees - poisson cru with lemon practice these days to charge for the breadcreme fraiche and pot du mollusques, a bowl Italian-style. Embrace the custom at Culina et of the restaurant’s title. A real find if you areof juicy clams, lardo, celeriac and wild fennel. Vinum because the grain bakery bread is theBolton is also particularly fond of another perfect foil for the snacks offerings, including looking for a centrally-located local, but there’smuch-ordered starter - his take on traditional brandade de morue, marinated olives andveal tartare. Ethically-sourced Torello Rose heirloom potatoes dusted with chilli. Sharing a major parking station nearby if you want toveal is the heart of this carnivore’s treat teamed is encouraged and there’s plenty of choice for everyone in the small plate and larger come from further afield. Culina et Vinum, 19- 23 Elizabeth Bay Rd, Elizabeth Bay; phone (02) 9356 8307. Louis Hong opened Monte at the quiet end of Norton St, Leichhardt, just over a year ago. A graduate of Cordon Bleu Australia, he also polished his skills at Bistro Moncur in Woollahra and The Cook’s Garden in Turramurra. The decor inside and out displays as much good taste as the food. Be warned - it will take you about 10 minutes to choose your entree and main course because everything on the tightly-edited menu is up for serious consideration, veering from French through Italian and Asian influences. We plumped for the twice-cooked goat cheese souffle and torched New Zealand king salmon with ponzu dressing, pickled radish and wasabi aioli to hone our appetites. The taste sensations continued with the char sui crispy duck leg, shiitake, coriander, consomme and Korean pork dumplings and the twice-cooked Bangalow pork belly with butternut pumpkin puree, green apple, puffed black rice and caramelised apple gel. One of the best fine dining restaurants in the inner west with reasonable prices, too. Monte Restaurant, 1/256 Norton St, Leichhardt; phone (02) 9568 5377. Top: Food from Culina et Vinum restaurant. Left: Food from Ete restaurant.44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

Npeartfuercatl.lyOur motto ‘naturally perfect’ reflects our missionto make each of our wines a true expression ofthe time and place of which it comes. Our 2016Clare Valley Big Fine Girl Riesling is no exception...www.jeanneretwines.com

winewordsNICK FLANAGANW I N E M A K E R / G E N E R A L M A N AG E R – G L A N D O R E E STAT ESKYE MURTAGHNICK Flanagan may have grown up industry is everyone has to start at the it out. In four years I think we’ve had to dosurrounded by Margaret River’s famed bottom. You can have all the degrees in this maybe a handful of times. We also lovevineyards, but he’s the first to admit that, the world but with no practical experience what we do and the business we’re creating.through his youth, “Margs was all about you’ll always start in the cellar. Studying We drink plenty of wine together, swing thethe waves”. Flanagan didn’t get into the and working is pretty common in the wine odd golf club around the course and try andwinemaking game until his late 20s but industry. Charles Sturt University at Wagga remember we “work to live”, not the otherhasn’t looked back. For the last four years, Wagga has an excellent course and there way around. And we laugh, all the time. Ihe’s been working as winemaker/GM at were quite a few people around the Valley don’t think I’ve ever had such fun at work.Hunter Valley’s Glandore Estate, alongside doing the same, which made things easier.his best mate and Glandore’s owner/ My first winemaker was Jim Chatto and I Where do you feel you’ve made the biggestwinemaker, Duane Roy. probably drove him a bit mental at times impact on the Glandore business? - always wanting to try something new orWhat triggered you taking a shot at bothering him about stuff he probably hadn’t I joined Glandore for a reason. Somewinemaking? thought about since he studied, but overall aspects were performing well, but there I think it’s the best way to go. I came out of were definite areas needing attention. As a My first vintage was 2001 and came about CSU with a Bachelor in Applied Science and GM/winemaker of a previous Hunter winery,by necessity really. My wife, Chloe, and I obviously applying what you’re learning at my retail experience, direct to customer viawere living in Dunsborough and the mining uni to what you’re doing in a cellar, reinforcing cellar door and wine club avenues, was high.boom hadn’t kicked off, so there weren’t as that knowledge, is what it’s all about. Winemaking was always going to play a rolemany spare jobs in that part of the world as well, because we’re different people withthen. I’d completed a Laboratory Certificate Tell us about working with your best mate? different ideas on how things were to beat TAFE after school but hadn’t really used Duane was one of the first guys I met in done. Every year we sit and discuss howit. At the time I didn’t realise wineries even we go forward in that area, but I still hadhad labs. Anyway, I met a guy and during the Hunter. We were both studying at the to pay my way. In the past four years oura surf learnt he was the lab tech at Evans same time, shared car trips to Wagga and staff numbers have doubled. Cellar door& Tate. I volunteered my time, learnt a few over the years we’ve both had families sales figures, visitor attendance and salesof the basics and went from there. and spent a lot of time together hanging conversion rates are at all-time highs and our out. Duane’s a big picture guy, with lots of wine club’s gone through the roof. It hasn’tHow did you wind up in the Hunter Valley? huge and sometimes ridiculous ideas that I been me that’s done all this, but I helped It was a happy medium for Chloe and I. must grudgingly admit can be quite good. introduce a different way of doing things Implementation has never been his strong that Duane embraced, and we ran with it.She’d grown up in Sydney, was working point but that’s where I come in. I’ll break it So far, it’s working. We’ve also been able toin costume design and had started her down, look at the details and see if it can be grow other areas of the business becauseown fashion label. WA was a bit far from done. Sometimes yes, sometimes no and we there are more of us. Our relationship with theeverything. The Hunter put us in close go from there. Sometimes he listens, other P&O cruise line has increased dramaticallyproximity to Sydney and in the centre of times it needs to happen so we find a way. I and a couple of years ago we opened aAustralia’s oldest wine growing region. guess we balance things out with each other. cellar door on both the Pacific Eden andNewcastle has some awesome beaches Pacific Aria, which was an industry first.and there’s surf everywhere you look, so I How do you balance your friendship and We’re also helping them create wine lists forwas happy. We weren’t 100 per cent sure on business partnership? the restaurants aboard all five ships as wellthe move as I still only had that one vintage as our own range of wines. I guess whereunder my belt, but I think I had three job Our working relationship was going to be I’ve helped out most is giving Glandore andoffers in one day, met some great people tricky but we addressed the issues from ultimately Duane, space to concentrate onand that sealed it. the outset. There was a lot at stake coming specific areas of the business without being together like this. We were and still are bombarded by everything at once.Studying winemaking as a mature-age best mates but we had a quite few longstudent - how was it juggling the books conversations, over quite a few beers, onand working in the field? how we’d make things work. We’ve had our moments but we’ll duke it out, figure out why That’s a good question because the one one of us is giving the other the shits and sortthing I’ve always respected about our46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

How does Glandore make its mark on the was why Duane asked me to help in the exciting. Nebbiolo and sangiovese, twoHunter wine map and attract visitation? first place. Things are proceeding as Italian varieties I love to drink, are now in the planned but you can always sell one winery. I also have a bit of chardonnay from Customer service is paramount. Duane and more bottle. Tumbarumba this year that has me pumped.I have spent plenty of time behind the bar It’s nothing crazy in the grand scheme ofat cellar door and we interact and engage What are some of your key business goals things but I love the purity of character fromwith our customers. Since our cellar door moving towards 2020? this region. Should make a pretty tidy wine.manager Simon’s come on-board he’s takenthat to the next level which filters down to our Keep growing. Keep moving forward. Get What’s the best drop you’ve had recently?cellar door staff. There are lots of cellar doors better at what we’re doing now. Work smarter This is an easy one. I was sitting in thein the Hunter and everyone’s doing their so we can enjoy those important moments inwinemaking best, but not everyone offers life when they come by. Keep learning. Drink backyard one sunny day over Christmasthe same experience. We don’t spend big better. Take people on a journey. We don’t watching the kids play some elaborate gamedollars on marketing. We invest in creating have a set series of KPI’s we need to adhere in the pool when I was struck with the needexperiences for customers. One-to-one to. That’s not who we are. We know when for a glass of wine. I’d recently purchased ainteractions at our cellar door, tastings, we’ve done something well or when we need bunch of different chardonnays from aroundevents, dinners or lunches are much more to go back to the drawing board. Australia, looking for a bit of inspirationvaluable to us than any other marketing for vintage 2018. I’d heard a bit about theforum or space. We then rely on word of What products in the Glandore Estate Oakridge 864 Chardonnay but hadn’t triedmouth and people sharing our wines around. stable are you most excited about right it. I certainly have now. That’s a crackingWe don’t have a big wholesale presence and now? wine. Beautiful fruit, great drive, elegant andno representation or distribution out there on everything I love about chardonnay. When Ithe road. When you interact with Glandore Alternate is the new mainstream, is it not? see wines like that it makes me want to beyou talk to the people that make and sell it We’ve been making tempranillo since ’04 a better winemaker. David Bicknell and theevery day. It’s very personal to us. and kind of went it alone for 10 years, but team at Oakridge have done a stellar job. It’s that’s well and truly over. It’s a great variety a wine that will change people’s minds. What have been some of your biggest wins and everyone’s seen that. We’re looking atat the winery so far? a few other bits and pieces that are by no means new, but they are for us, so that’s It has to be the relationship we’vedeveloped professionally and personallywith the guys at P&O. We’re one of thesmallest wineries working with one of thebiggest businesses in Australia and theopportunities that have come our waythrough these relationships have donegreat things for Glandore. Duane setthis up before I came along, and it’s hishard work that’s really seen us where weare today. I’ve shared the burden withhim in recent times, but credit wherecredit’s due. He’s worked pretty hard forGlandore in this area. Personally, I’ve reallyenjoyed working with new vineyards andintroducing a few subtle changes to thewinemaking when Duane would come tothe party. There’s even been the odd newwine that’s popped up and sold well, whichis satisfying. From a business perspective,I’m proud of our retail sales growth, which March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 47

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts up, recorked, recapsuled and certified at Penfolds Red Wine Clinics. This no MW WINES LANGTON’S doubt gave the buyer confidence both March 14 -21 (AUCTION MARKET HIGHLIGHTS: in the present condition and the likely (submissions close March 10) DECEMBER 2017, by ADRIAN READ) longevity of these extremely rare bottles. April 11 - 18 2017 ended on twin high notes at The inaugural 1951 Grange is generally (submissions close April 7) Langton’s, with new price records set for agreed to mark the beginning of modern May 9 - 16 (submissions close May 5) the two most valuable and collectable Australian red winemaking. It was an items in Australian wine - one, a bottle of experimental wine that was not released LANGTON’S the original 1951 Penfolds Grange and commercially. Few understood it at the Auctions close at 9pm every Tuesday, the second, a complete set of 63 Grange time and, ironically given its value today, Thursday and Sunday. Browse vintages, 1951-2013 inclusive. winemaker Max Schubert gave much of and bid in Unreserved, Finest & it away. At the Classic Penfolds sale, Rare, Single Vendor and more. Visit The Grange set sold for a record another experimental wine, a Grange langtons.com.au. $332,608 to an anonymous buyer at Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1953 a December auction focusing on the vintage, fetched $17,475 - equalling STERLING WINE 21 wines in the highest category - previous records. Among a total of 750 Live on-line auctions run every two Exceptional - of Langton’s Classification lots, other early Grange vintages also weeks, back-to-back, finishing on of Australian Wine. It was the centrepiece maintained high prices, including 1959 Wednesday evening. of the sale. The 1951 Grange sold earlier Bin 46 Grange Hermitage ($3787), 1961 in the month, also to an anonymous buyer, Bin 95 Grange Hermitage ($2914), 1963 ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS at our annual Classic Penfolds sale, for Bin 95 Grange Hermitage ($2273) and Visit oddbins.com.au for the latest $59,416 - a new record auction price for 1966 Bin 95 Grange Hermitage ($2098). auction dates and information. a single, 750ml bottle of Australian wine. The steady (or rising) prices of these wines reflects a strong secondary market (All dates are subject to change The price represented an increase of for Australian wine, with Penfolds wines without notice). 15 per cent over the previous record of generally and Grange in particular the $51,750, set in July 2017. The previous cornerstone. Other Penfolds labels record price for a complete set of which also performed well were 1962 Grange was $294,320, set in November. St Henri Shiraz 1962 ($3729), 1967 Bin The bottles of both 1951 and 1952 7 Coonawarra Cabernet-Kalimna Shiraz Grange in the set had been topped ($3495) and a magnum of 2010 Bin 170 Block 3C Shiraz, Kalimna 2010 ($4893). The new record price for the 1967 Bin 7 (previously $2330) reflects the impact of birth-year buying, with Bin 7 being one of few Australian wines likely to show at or near its best at 50 years old. Another example is 1977 Grange, with a new record price of $1865 against the previous record of $759 set only in November, last year. The overall clearance rate at the sale was a high 85 per cent, at an average bottle price of $330. The bargain buy was 2008 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet at $26 per bottle and the rarity (not seen at auction for almost two years) was a 1978 Dalwood Claret from Penfolds’ Hunter Valley days, which sold for $118. Founded in 1988, Langton’s was the first auction house in Australia to specialise in wine and celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Penfolds Grange has headed the Exceptional category of all six editions of the classification since its inception in 1990. Langton’s birthday48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018

wine investment & collectingcelebrations will climax with the release of the 157 bottles available selling at a which sold at almost 20 per cent aboveof Classification VII later this year. All remarkable clearance rate of 97 per cent estimate for $5692.50. From the importedprices include buyer’s premium of 16.5 of bottles available. November’s auction section we saw a new high on the rarelyper cent. saw a return to the larger catalogues seen Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne, we’d been seeing throughout the year, with a bottle of 2009 selling at $3220.MW WINES offering almost 17,000 bottles for sale. The other exceptional bottle on offer(OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2017 AUCTION When all was said and done, the final was a 200-plus-year-old 1795 F. F. FerrazREPORT, by SIMON EVANS) sales value again exceeded $500,000. Vinho Madeira Especial Terrantez whichFollowing on from the largest auction This included the sale of no less than 16 sold for a staggering $4657.50. In all,by sales last July, MW Wines concluded bottles of various cuvees from Domaine we saw a number of continuing trends in2017 with three exceptional auctions, de la Romanee Conti, including a 1986 our auctions last year. Penfolds Grangemaking the calendar year the biggest Romanee-Conti which sold at 40 per cent continues to underpin the market. Wein our history, with a remarkable 50 per above estimate. The auction also had a sell on average in excess of 200 bottlescent auction sales growth by value on the unique offering of older Bordeaux. Most a month and the clearance rate continues2016 calendar year. In fact, total auction of the 1st growths were represented in to sit around 97 per cent. We also don’tsales value averaged around $450,000 a total offering of 153 bottles and the charge vendors to sell Grange so, if youper month for the year. Not only did this icons such as 1921 Chateau d’Yquem have a bottle or a collection you’d likeprovide our vendors with strong results ($4542.50 - 60 per cent above estimate), to offer for sale, call us for a valuation.for their consignments, it meant our inspired fierce bidding. The final auction We also saw evidence of a continuedbuyers had access to an unparalleled for the year in December provided our growing appetite from our buyers for allrange of wines not seen anywhere else buyers with a great opportunity to stock wines. Over the course of the year wein this country. The October auction their cellars for the festive season, with achieved six of our top 10 auctions bysaw a strong result, with almost 8000 an estimated catalogue value in excess value in our history. This was underpinnedbottles sold for a total value of over of $900,000 across over 5000 lots and by continuing record sales of Grange,$350,000. This represented a clearance a final sales value exceeding $550,000. along with continuing insatiable demandrate of almost 60 per cent of the total True to form, our buyers made the most for all things Penfolds, most notably Binvalue of wine available. The auction of it and in the process provided huge 707 Cabernet Sauvignon with manywas fuelled by Penfolds Grange which results for our vendors. The highlight vintages now demanding over $400 peraccounted for almost a quarter of the Australian wine was a cliniced bottle of bottle. As this goes to press, our 2018total sales value for the month, with 152 1955 Grange, signed by Max Schubert, auctions will be well underway, with March/April 2018 W I N E S TAT E 49

wine investment & collectingJanuary looking to provide a solid first first tipsy experience complements of the in many deceased estates, generatingauction for the year. We expect demand blessed altar wine. The ancient Greeks awe and disbelief from millennials.from our buyers to keep growing and sought blessing from the Gods through The first true legend icon wine waswill continue our search for excellent wine offerings and sacrifice, and many the Seppelts Para 100 year series,and varied cellars to sate their collective ancient cultures mixed wine, pleasure, first released in 1978. It was the mostappetites. If you’re interested in either fertility and success together - putting extravagant whim. The visionary Bennobuying or selling with us, contact any of a designated God, like Dionysus and Seppelt, on completing his new Barossaour team on (03) 9419 6990. We resume Bacchus, in charge.Today, the wine Seppeltsfield winery in 1877, declaredour activity in the fine wine retail division world’s casual use of the deeply religious that every subsequent year a barrelin 2018, with the resumption of our term “iconic” has become commonplace. of best tawny would be laid down formonthly free tastings on February 22 at Iconic wines are now pretty close to a bottling when it was 100 years old. Backour Collingwood premises and a unique discrete class, but let’s have a look at in 1978, the 1878 Para was released forVictoria vs. Burgundy dinner scheduled the evolution of the use of this word in $1200 a bottle - about the same priceto be announced for March at Ricky and relation to wine. Back in the “fortified” as a good car 40 years ago. It came inPinky in Fitzroy. We continue to offer old era, folks got pretty excited about a beautiful wood case (reliquary) andand rare gems from Australia, Bordeaux, collecting and displaying bottles of port was instantly the most desired of all theBurgundy, Barolo and others via our retail with weird commemorative themes - race wine collectables. Of course, demandstore. To receive these offers, sign up at horses, princesses, trains, warships, exceeded supply. There was only onewww.mwwines.com.au/shop, or give us greyhounds, cricketers, wild flowers and barrel to go around and the privilege ofa call. All prices above include 15 per F1 cars. You name it and it was likely ownership was reserved for the deservingcent buyer’s premium. proudly gracing a bottle of Oz port. few. Many wine commentators were My personal favourite was the Halley’s gobsmacked when Penfolds recentlySTERLING WINE AUCTIONS Comet production commemorating released special limited release “art”(JANUARY 2018 REPORT, by LYNTON the 1986 pass. These picture bottle bottlings for tens of thousands of dollars.BARBER) ports were loved, widely collected and It had all been done before, 40 yearsWine and spiritual experience has a long displayed in the original man caves. ago. A Melbourne restaurant/wine cellarhistory. Jesus’ first miracle was making Never considered for consumption decided sponsoring a wine show trophywine from water for wedding guests and (sacrilege), these amazing and crazy for the best 12-month-old reds was goodmany cheeky altar boys have had their sentinels from past glory now feature for business. The Jimmy Watson Trophy Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What50 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2018