Winestate Magazine September October 2021

varietal tasting Shingleback Berton Vineyards Are You Game? Massoni Estate Haycutters Reserve Barossa Strathbogie Ranges Grown Pyrenees McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2018 Shiraz 2017 2019 HHH 90pts HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts HHH 91pts A savoury meaty nose Oak driven style with Dark peppery fruit A complexity of red with very appealingly a hint of plum fruit aromas and complex fruits, licorice, spices sweet oaky flavours. pushing through, palate with spicy earthy and some earthiness. $18 cinnamon-like notes flavours. $20 Drink soon. $24.99 and chocolaty tannins. SHIRAZ Knappstein Clare $20 Grandeur Wellington Jip Jip Rocks $20-$25 Valley Shiraz 2019 Pirramimma Artisan McLaren Padthaway Shiraz HHHHH 98pts Stock’s Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 HHH 90pts 29 TASTED Pretty blue fruit Vale Shiraz 2018 2018 HHH A pretty cherry chocolate 15 AWARDED fragrances with floral/ HHH1/2 92pts 91pts VBBAEULSYUTSE nose with big chunky lavender nuances and Light and bright with oak driven palate. $23 A real mixed bag! a nicely structured jubey red fruit characters Mature chocolaty “There were too many palate with lingering with licorice notes and bouquet and slight SHIRAZ simple or early mature red licorice-like flavours some sweet oak. Drink $25-$30 wines lacking vibrancy,” and assertive tannins. soon. $22 2020/2019 said the judges. “There Offers good cellaring Mr Brightside PR was a lack of balance potential. $22 McLaren Vale Shiraz 26 TASTED overall with too many Thorn-Clarke 2020 HHH 91pts 15 AWARDED bitter tannins; some Sandpiper Barossa Lifted fragrant fruit over oaked, some over Shiraz 2018 HHHH with dark chocolaty “Where was the vibrant extracted and some 94pts characters and strong colour,” said one judge over manipulated,” said A pleasant cherry tannins. $22 referring to the 2020 one judge. “But the chocolate bouquet with Angas & Bremer wines here. “Not better wines showed a plush fruit cake of Langhorne Creek to mention the fruit freshness, vibrancy and a palate and showing Shiraz Cabernet vibrancy!” There was a balance and offer nice some savoury tannins. 2019 HHH 90pts better strike rate from straightforward drinking; $20 A lovely maturing a warm 2019 vintage no complications.” Bec Hardy Wines complexity of dark fruits, giving solid fruit and Nature Foundation black olives and smoked better balanced wines Barbara Hardy meats. $20 leathery palate with than previous flights. McLaren Vale Shiraz Brothers In Arms hints of olives. $20 2019 HHH1/2 93pts No.6 Langhorne Sanguine Estate Cherries and violets Creek Shiraz d’Arenberg Progeny Heathcote lift off the nose and Cabernet Sauvignon The Footbolt Shiraz 2019 has a firm chocolate/ 2019 HHH 90pts McLaren Vale Shiraz HHHH1/2 97pts plum palate with nice Both varieties well 2018 HHH 91pts There’s quite a pungency mid palate sweetness. represented showing A powerful savoury to the smoky/green $20 rhubarb, raspberry wine rich with black fruit pepper/beetroot nose and smoked meat characters. Has plenty of and has a liqueur-like characters. $22 tannins. $21 palate with an attractive Longhop Adelaide praline/malty-like flavour Plains Shiraz Fox Creek McLaren profile. $25 2019 HHH 90pts Vale Shiraz 2018 The black fruit nose has HHH 91pts a meaty nuance and is Full bodied style with rich, creamy and chewy tapenade and roast in the mouth. $22 meat-like characters and firm tannins. $23 JUDGES - DAY 1 Susan Mickan Adam Clay Winemaker. Has worked Penfolds winemaker in Shane Harris 34 vintages including the Barossa Valley. Has Winemaker for Wines by across Australia, completed vintages at Geoff Hardy including, K1 and New Zealand, China, Marchesi de Frescobaldi Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy Spain. Some wineries in Chianti and Pellegrin Wines. Has also completed including Kirrihill, Pernod in California. Judge vintages in Queensland and Ricard, Penfolds, Helan at the Alternative Victoria. Completed the AWRI Mountain (China) and Varieties show Cairns, advanced sensory course Cambo Viego. Judged at Queensland Wine and has associate judged at numerous wine shows Awards and Clare Valley McLaren Vale Wine Show. around Australia. wine show. Winestate Winemaker of the Year in 2009, 2019 & 2020. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 51

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVI The Thief? Barossa Mr Riggs The Gaffer Claymore Wines Angas & Bremer Finniss River Shiraz 2019 McLaren Vale Shiraz Dark Side Of The Langhorne Creek Currency Creek HHHH1/2 97pts 2019 HHH1/2 93pts Moon Clare Valley Shiraz 2018 Shiraz 2016 A lovely fragrant berry Nose is an earthy/ Limestone Coast HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 92pts fruit and plum bouquet savoury compote of Shiraz 2019 A full bodied rich and Complex wine with and a poised, balanced aromas with a nice oak HHH 90pts flavoursome wine a savoury fruit profile and well weighted palate driven palate that has Lifted black jubey fruit with an interesting giving meaty aromas that has lots of flavour, good fruit weight. $25 layered with smoked complexity of cherry and interesting great structure and Harcourt Valley meat and leathery fruit, cedary oak and flavoursome palate. $25 plenty of length. $28 Vineyards Barbara’s characters. $25 meaty elements. $25 Patritti Merchant Bendigo Shiraz Kurtz Family McLaren Vale 2019 HHH 91pts SHIRAZ Grounded Cru Cru Vineyards Boundary Shiraz 2019 Pungent licorice/ $25-$30 McLaren Vale Shiraz Row Barossa Valley HHHH1/2 96pts Sarsaparilla bouquet and 2018 & OLDER 2018 HHHH 94pts Shiraz 2018 Fragrant spicy/peppery a pretty soft floral/spicy An elegant wine; bright, HHH 91pts aromatics. Good palate palate. $25 23 TASTED spicy and peppery with Earthy, oaky and personality offering a Shingleback 12 AWARDED a freshness of dark complex with black fruits mouthful of blue fruits Davey Estate varietal fruits. “Love and savoury tannins. Old flavour dashed with McLaren Vale Shiraz A mixed result but there it!” declared one of the school style. $28 cinnamon and nutmeg 2019 HHH 91pts were more highlights judges. $28 and has an oak tannin Lifted jelly fruit crystal here than in previous d’Arenberg The Love Barossa Valley profile. $25 aromas and great length groups. The better wines Grass McLaren Vale Wine Company Hollick Estates to the tightly structured excelled in varietal Shiraz 2018 Gravel Track Barossa Wrattonbully palate. $25 character and nimble HHH1/2 92pts Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2019 Trentham Cellar winemaking. “Great to Earthy beetroot-like 2018 HHH 90pts HHHH1/2 96pts Reserve Great see maintained vibrancy aromas leading to a tight Bright and youthful Subdued nose with Western Shiraz with these older wines,” palate with a high level savoury style with plenty hints of black fruits. 2019 HHH 91Pts said one judge. of acid giving freshness of oak and angular Fleshy in the mouth Sweet vanilla and structure. $25 tannins. $25 with nice weight prominent on the of plum fruit and cassis nose. A savoury Sew & Sew Sashiko Corryton Burge Kith supported by a good palate with stalky McLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Shiraz 2018 level of tannins and tannins. $28 2018 HHHHH 98pts HHH 90pts acid. $27 Excellent intensity of Smoky/meaty nose and colour with aromas a plush and very oaky Taylors Taylor Made Taylors Reserve of dark chocolate, palate with creamy Clare Valley Shiraz Parcel Limestone cherries, mulberries and notes. $28 2019 HHHH 94pts Coast Clare Valley bluestone! Lovely flow “A really good wine that Shiraz 2019 and persistence of fresh Thorn-Clarke has class,” said one HHH 90pts blackberry flavours with Varietal Collection judge. Elegant, cool A pungent savoury oak subtle spicy oak. $25 Barossa Shiraz climate, peppery fruit driven wine but has 2018 HHH 90pts freshness and long fine a complexity of fruit Fox Creek JSM Smells and tastes of tannins. $25 underneath. $28 McLaren Vale cherries, blackberries Shiraz Cabernet and lavender with Grounded Cru Cru Taylors Heritage Cabernet Franc Ubertas Wines some development McLaren Vale Shiraz Limestone Coast 2018 HHHHH 98pts Single Vineyard beginning. $28 2019 HHHH 94pts Clare Valley Shiraz A gorgeous blend with Barossa Valley A dense, dark and 2019 HHH 90pts an inky briary mix of red Shiraz 2018 SHIRAZ brooding style that’s Toasty oak nose and a and black fruit fragrances HHH1/2 92pts $30-$35 all sour cherries, very oaky palate with and fantastic length to A balanced and well cranberries, spices, fresh quite a high level of the cherry liqueur and weighted wine full of 36 TASTED herbs and florals tightly tannins. $29 charry oak flavours. “A ripe black fruit, olives 25 AWARDED wrapped in acid. $28 Bec Hardy Wines well thought out wine,” and has an abundance of Andrew Peace Wines Pertaringa noted one judge. $29 oak. $28 “A big step-up,” agreed 25th Anniversary Undercover Allinda Heathcote the judges. “Solid Victoria Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2018 consistent class with 2019 HHH1/2 93pts 2019 HHH 90pts HHHH1/2 96pts better fruit weight; not Has dark rich spicy fruit Subdued subtle style A nicely woven, well- propped up,” said one with stylish cedar-like with spicy/toasty/herbal structured and classy judge. “These are worth oak and multi-layered elements and chewy wine with lifted dark paying the extra few tannins. It just needs tannins. $25 plum fruit showing dollars. Stunning wine some more time. $25 spicy/floral elements and and some are as good balanced by the stylish as the more expensive cedary oak. $29 wines!” 52 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

varietal tasting DanJango Barossa d’Arenberg Handcrafted d’Arenberg The Stardust and Muscle Valley Shiraz 2020 The Wild Pixie McLaren Vale Shiraz Laughing Magpie Central Victoria HHHHH 98pts McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 HHHH 94pts McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2020 Crimson/black wine. Roussanne 2018 Lifted peppery Viognier 2016 HHH1/2 92pts Fragrant and floral HHHH1/2 97pts plum aromas and a HHH1/2 93pts A lighter, elegant style bouquet with licorice Inky black wine; straightforward fleshy Complexity of dark ripe with pretty rose petal nuances and a complex and interesting plum palate. It has fruits and classy cedary and raspberry-like fruit beautifully balanced with earthy spicy aromas length, balance and oak with huge tannins. characters and plenty of palate with plenty and great palate texture texture. $30 Drinking well now. $30 oak. $32 of length and spicy/ with mouth-puckering peppery fruit well tannins. “Excellent Taylors Jaraman Zonte’s Footstep integrated with the attention to detail here,” Clare McLaren Vale Chocolate Factory oak. $30 noted one judge. $30 Shiraz 2019 McLaren Vale Shiraz HHH1/2 93pts 2019 HHH1/2 92pts Tenafeate Creek Castelli Estate Powerful plum and A big rich and slightly Basket Press One Frankland River blackcurrant aromas and syrupy wine with an Tree Hill Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2018 nicely textured palate intensity of chocolaty/ HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts with a complexity of fruit mocha and lots of drying “Something different Another inky black/ and oak. $32 tannins. $30 – has that ‘X’ factor,” crimson wine with a enthused one judge. powerful hit of prunes, Bowen Estate Amadio Wines Mr Riggs Piebald Bright fragrant berry/ chocolate and licorice on Coonawarra Shiraz Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Syrah chocolate nose and silky the nose and filling the 2019 HHHH 94pts Selection Adelaide 2019 HHH 91pts smooth multi layered mouth with silky smooth Fruit cake-like bouquet Hills Shiraz 2018 Medium bodied palate with delicious flavours. $34 with cola notes and soft HHH1/2 93pts wine with plenty of chocolate/raisin-like Gumpara Victor’s and spicy cherry plum A solid, dark, rich and personality. Fruit is a tad flavours. $30 Old Vine Barossa fruit flavours with mid mature wine with jammy with peppery Rymill Coonawarra Valley Shiraz 2019 palate sweetness. $32 forest floor/mushroom notes. $30 Classic Coonawarra HHHH 95pts Tempus Two Copper elements. “Classy Paulett Wines Clare Shiraz 2019 A big rich dense and GG Gundagai Shiraz and elegant with no Valley Shiraz 2019 HHHHH 98pts multi-layered wine 2016 HHHH 94pts edges.” $30 HHH 91pts A youthful wine with with dark ripe fruit, Aromas in the mature Tenafeate Creek Cola-like aromas with a fragrant floral fruit licorice notes and violet fruit spectrum with a Basket Press One the licorice characters nose showing some touches with firm tannin flavoursome compote Tree Hill Shiraz on the palate adding earthiness and great backbone. $32 of plums, good acid 2018 HHH1/2 92pts savouriness. $30 length and persistence Condie Estate and assertive oak and All meaty and spicy Fermoy Estate of spicy plum flavours The Gwen Heathcote tannins. $30 on both the nose and Margaret River with lovely firm tannin Shiraz 2019 palate with assertive Shiraz 2018 structure. $32 HHHH 94pts tannins and good fruit HHH 91pts Gomersal Reserve Smoky savoury style weight. $30 Floral/peppery red Barossa Valley with charry aromas Coco Rotie South fruit bouquet and very Shiraz 2016 laced with rhubarb and Australia Shiraz peppery and spicy HHHHH 98pts plum characters and a Viognier 2020 flavour profile. $30 A stunning wine. “Best rich, full-bodied, meaty HHH1/2 92pts Zonte’s Footstep wine of the day,” thought palate. $30 Confectionery Lake Doctor one judge. Powerful aromatics with hints Langhorne Creek oak influence here with of Turkish Delight and Shiraz 2019 a brooding chocolaty/ a crunchy medium HHH 90pts dark fruit bouquet and bodied mulberry/plum An oak driven wine lovely spicy/savoury fruit palate. $30 with a lift of berry fruits flavours. $30 and some nice fine tannins. $30 JUDGES - DAY 2 Leigh Francis Matt O’Leary Sensory Research Chief winemaker for Duane Coates MW Manager at the Savitas Wines in the Winemaker for Coates Australian Wine Barossa Valley. Formerly Wines. Duane has a Research Institute Senior Winemaker for Masters of Oenology (AWRI). On AWRI Wolf Blass Wines. Judge from Adelaide University Teaching Advisory at the Barossa wine show. and has gained overseas Panel and Technical Panelist at the Advanced winemaking experience Quality Panel. Wine Assessment Course. in Burgundy, the Northern Associate judge, Rhone Valley regions in Adelaide wine show. France, and the Douro Valley in Portugal. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 53

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVI Condie Estate Zonte’s Footstep Saddler’s Creek Mr Riggs Idle Lane Jim Barry Crimson The Gwen Heathcote Nature’s Crux Saddler’s Langhorne McLaren Vale Shiraz Gold Clare Valley Shiraz 2018 Fleurieu Shiraz 2020 Creek Shiraz 2019 HHH 90pts Shiraz 2018 HHH 90pts HHHHH 98pts Viognier 2019 Oak a tad obvious but HHHH1/2 97pts Perfumed fragrances Amazing colour – HHHH 94pts has enough intensity of Fragrant lifted spicy fruit with raisined notes and bordering on black! A A tight and very well dark stewed-like fruit to bouquet with caramel good concentration of big style – well made structured wine that is carry it. $35 nuances and a fleshy youthful flavours. $30 with lovely rich dark an amalgam of lifted blue fruited palate with varietal fruit characters, dark and spicy fruit, SHIRAZ balancing oak. “A really Paulett Wines Polish some decent oak and an toasty oak and fine $35-$40 nicely made wine!” Hill River Clare abundance of attractive tannins. $36 2018 & OLDER declared one judge. $35 Valley Shiraz 2018 grainy tannins. $35 Reillys Dry Land HHH 90pts SCION Heathcote The Gate McLaren 24 TASTED Clare Valley Uncomplicated, well Shiraz 2019 Vale Shiraz 2019 10 AWARDED Shiraz 2018 made, wine with ripe HHHHH 98pts HHHH 94pts Mixed results here with HHHH1/2 96pts varietal fruit and smoky Almost purple in colour A dense and powerful both the good and the An absolute massive bacon oak. $30 with subtle spicy oak shiraz with rich prune/ not so good. There were brooding style of shiraz and fruit fragrances. chocolate-like varietal developed 2018s and the with an abundance of Peter Thompson Silky smooth in the characters, savoury 2017s were generally a “cheerful” chocolaty oak Wines Coonawarra mouth with a palate tannins and a pleasant disappointment either and sweet liqueur-like Shiraz 2018 bright with fruits and after taste. $39.95 lacking depth or weight fruit. Very attractive – HHH 91pts interwoven with the Old Plains Power Of or already developed. very flavoursome. $38 A big old school style oak and showing some One Adelaide Plains Choose wisely. Clarence Hill Red that is sweet and obvious acid. $36 Shiraz 2019 Label McLaren Vale generous with plenty of Pirramimma White HHH1/2 93pts Grandeur Wellington Shiraz 2018 vanillin oak. $30 Label McLaren Vale Smoky and meaty on GEN 69 McLaren HHHH 94pts Shiraz 2019 the nose and a maturing Vale Shiraz 2018 Subtle spicy dark fruit SHIRAZ HHHH 94pts oak driven palate with HHHH1/2 97pts fragrances and powerful $35-$40 “Beautifully poised, sweet berries and plums A subtle complexity of oak influence on the 2020/2019 balanced and complete beneath. $35 spicy/toasty aromas with palate but has good wine.” It is multilayered Silent Noise FO lots of cedary oak on weight of red fruit to 13 TASTED with great length of fine McLaren Vale Shiraz the tight, slightly drying, carry it. $35 10 AWARDED powdery tannins. $35 2020 HHH 91pts spicy plum palate that Grounded Cru Naked Thorn-Clarke Aromas of plums and shows some alcohol Wines Winemaker A step-up from the Shotfire Barossa chocolate with a high acid, warmth. $35 Fantasy McLaren previous flights. Shiraz 2019 fruit driven, palate and Vale Adelaide Hills “Here we see more HHHH 94pts pleasant tannins. $35 Langhorne Creek fruit weight that can Spicy red fruit on the Ladies Who Shoot Shiraz 2018 hold the oak,” said nose with a dense palate Their Lunch HHHH 94pts one judge. “Within starting with toasty oak Strathbogie Ranges Just a suggestion of red this flight there are and evolving into fleshy Shiraz 2019 fruits on the nose with different styles ranging plum flavours. $35 HHH 90pts more of the same on the from fresh primary Full bodied wine with a fleshy palate. Good drive and fruity styles to the savoury nose and quite of fine tannins. $36 oaky, concentrated a spicy/savoury palate Scarpantoni Estate and layered ones with sweet oak. $35 Block 3 McLaren with the best wines a Vale Shiraz 2018 combination of both.” HHH1/2 92pts Appealing and aromatic with fragrant spicy oak nose and very oaky palate with nice mid-palate fruit sweetness. $35 Heartland Directors’ Cut Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2018 HHH 91pts Simple savoury/dusty aromas with fruit cake- like flavours, charry oak and angular tannins. $35 54 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

varietal tasting Morambro Creek Bec Hardy Wines Gilbert Wines Patritti Lot Three Wolf Blass Grey Padthaway Shiraz Pertaringa Over Gilberts Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz Label McLaren 2018 HHH 90pts the Top McLaren Mount Barker Great 2019 HHH 91pts Vale Shiraz 2019 Mocha-like characters Vale Shiraz 2018 Southern WA Shiraz A big fruit cake style HHHH1/2 96pts on the nose with a HHHH1/2 97pts 2018 HHHH 94pts of wine with a huge Almost black in colour powerful hit of oak on Deep red wine almost Dark spicy bouquet amount of oak and with crimson highlights. the palate. $35 bordering on black with with earthy/mushroom assertive fruit derived Delicate aromas of a shy blackcurrant-like complexity and tannins. $40 prunes, spices and Pontifex Barossa bouquet showing a seamlessly balanced Allinda Yarra Valley vanilla. Very oaky palate Valley Shiraz 2018 savoury edge and a palate with good fruit Syrah 2018 with nice sweetness HHH 90pts full bodied dark dense weight. $40 HHH 91pts in the middle. An old Unusual aromas of chocolaty palate. Good Haselgrove Catkin Leathery prune-like school style. $45 peaches and apricots drinking now. $40 McLaren Vale Shiraz nose and a complexity with a vibrant fleshy Sanguine Estate 2019 HHH1/2 92pts of earthy/forest floor varietal fruit palate. $35 Inception Heathcote A nicely made wine flavours. $40 Shiraz 2018 with the cedary oak Fox Creek Short HHHH1/2 97pts well balanced by fleshy Audrey Wilkinson Row McLaren Vale “A big rich decadent red fruits. Good palate Winemakers Shiraz 2017 wine,” according to one weight. $40 Selection Hunter HHH 90pts judge. Luscious ripe fruit James Busby Valley Shiraz A very oaky wine; lots fragrances layered with Vineyard Series 2019 HHH 90pts of sweet and dusty licorice and spices. Good Barossa Valley Caramel-like aromas characters with some length and concentration Shiraz 2019 with lots of sweet oak fruit underneath. $38 of fruit flavours. Lots of HHH1/2 92pts and bright fleshy red tannins. $40 The nose is a herbal fruit flavours. $40 SHIRAZ Bec Hardy McLaren potpourri of aromas $40-$45 Vale Shiraz 2019 with plenty of rich fruit Gilbert Wines Corryton Burge HHHH 94pts flavours and subtle use Gilberts Reserve Percival Norman 29 TASTED A lifted oaky nose with of oak. $40 Mount Barker Great Barossa Valley 15 AWARDED pleasant savoury notes Yes Said The Seal Southern WA Shiraz Shiraz 2019 and a dense and intense Bellarine Peninsula 2019 HHH 90pts HHHH 94pts Maybe not the plush fruit palate with an Shiraz 2018 Ripe brooding oak nose A spicy plum nose with a consistency here of abundance of oak. $40 HHH1/2 92pts and rich chocolaty/prune- smoky element. Warming previous flights of Bec Hardy Wines Big oak matched by big like palate with plenty of in the mouth with plenty 2018/19 wines. “Often Pertaringa Over the fruit giving ripe aromas tannins. $40 of oak and mid palate adding extra oak does Top McLaren Vale and a dense, chewy and sweetness. $45 not necessarily make it Shiraz 2019 flavoursome palate. $42 SHIRAZ Greenstone good,” said one judge. HHHH 94pts Barossa Valley Wine $45-$50 Vineyards Estate However there are still Simple fleshy style Company Stockyard Series Heathcote good wines here to pick with dark chocolaty Barossa Valley 25 TASTED Shiraz 2018 through. fruit characters, spicy/ Shiraz 2019 8 AWARDED HHHH 94pts menthol nuances and HHH 91pts A fragrance of blue fruits Sanguine Estate assertive tannins. Good A spicy black olive “Disappointing to see so and licorice, tasting of Inception Heathcote aftertaste. $40 nose and a long, tightly many failing to make the licorice, aniseed and Shiraz 2019 Brangayne Of structured, palate with cut,” agreed the judges. fennel and layered with HHHHH 98pts Orange Orange firm tannins. $40 “Too many winemakers fine tannins. $45 Very attractive stylish NSW Shiraz 2018 were over extracting floral fragrances and a big HHHH 94pts their wines making them rich and oaky palate. Soft Good juicy spicy dry and unbalanced,” in the mouth with lovely raspberry nose with a noted one judge. sweet and spicy varietal bright “crunchy” palate “However there were fruit across the length of vibrant with lingering some good wines here the palate. “Has great fruit and vanilla that showed retained presence!” $40 flavours. $40 fruit sweetness and not swamped with oak.” JUDGES - DAY 3 Adam Carnaby Susan Mickan Alex MacClelland Senior Winemaker for Winemaker. Has worked Chief winemaker at Seppelt. Has previously 34 vintages including Bethany Wines. Formerly worked in hospitality across Australia, winemaker at Hemera management at Melbourne’s New Zealand, China, Estate, Schild Estate Hilton Hotel. Completed Spain. Some wineries and Boar’s Rock. Has a bachelor degree in wine including Kirrihill, Pernod vintaged in Burgundy, science at Charles Sturt Ricard, Penfolds, Helan Rhone Valley and University and bachelor of Mountain (China) and Marlborough. Associate applied science at RMIT. Cambo Viego. Judged at judge at the Inland wine Formerly winemaker for numerous wine shows show, Barossa wine Yering Station and Xanadu. around Australia. show and AWAC. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 55

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVI K1 Adelaide Hills Knappstein The Condie Estate RidgeView SHIRAZ Shiraz 2018 Mayors Vineyard The Max Heathcote Impressions Hunter $60-$70 HHHH 94pts Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2018 Valley Shiraz 2017 A developing complexity 2019 HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH 95pts 28 TASTED of dark fruits and chocolaty An intense, almost A texturally soft and An attractive nose of 22 AWARDED elements with some black, wine with crimson fleshy style of shiraz dark chocolate, coffee toastiness and oak in the highlights, rich chocolaty with a lovely rich and spices with a Excellent solid class of cedary spectrum. $45 fruit, spicy oak and complexity of black warming, maturing, performers with very chewy tannins with an fruits, oak and fine spicy fruit cake of a few “duds”. A strong Thorn-Clarke Single abundance of licorice tannins and showing palate. $50 result from the 2019 Vineyard Selection characters and hints of a lovely chocolaty Grounded Cru Inc vintage with great Barossa Shiraz eucalyptus. $53 structure. $50 McLaren Vale Shiraz balance and less of the 2018 HHHH 94pts Grounded Cru Inc Condie Estate The 2019 HHHH 94pts “monsters” of the past. A rich full-bodied wine. McLaren Vale Shiraz Max Heathcote An interesting “There was great colour, “Lots of everything done 2018 HHHHH 98pts Shiraz 2019 complexity of freshness of flavour very well.” It’s complex, A sweet and lifted blue HHHH1/2 96pts fragrances with a and excellent overall multilayered and full of fruit nose with those A silky smooth wine seamlessly balanced balance,” summed up flavour. $45 similar characters with delicate lifted and flavoursome spicy one judge. echoed on the solid and fragrances of blue fruits plum palate with olive Domaine Asmara well balanced palate. The edged with hints of notes. $50 Gomersal Estate Reserve Heathcote fruit shows quite a spicy balsamic. A richly fruited Watkins Adelaide Barossa Valley Shiraz 2018 and savoury edge. $50 palate with plenty of oak Hills Shiraz 2016 Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 93pts Dogs of Barossa and fine tannins. $50 HHH1/2 93pts HHHHH 98pts Big rich and ripe shiraz Barossa Shiraz 2019 Grounded Cru Inc Long, delicious and An abundance of with dark fruits edged HHHH1/2 97pts McLaren Vale Shiraz complex shiraz with attractive oak and with raisined notes and a An inky black wine with 2017 HHHH1/2 96pts spicy/earthy fruit, cedary forest fruit fragrances. strong oak influence. $45 a savoury nose exhibiting A very complex and oak and ‘timbery’ Dense and inky on the aromas of vanilla bean flavoursome style with a tannins. $50 palate layered with Greenstone and that character follows lovely leafy blackcurrant Taylors Masterstroke alluring tobacco-like Vineyards Estate through on to the full bouquet. Silky smooth in McLaren Vale Shiraz oak. “Lots going on Series Heathcote bodied palate mixing with the mouth with plenty of 2019 HHH1/2 92pts here,” said one judge. Shiraz 2019 spicy elements. $50 oak integrated with the Brooding licorice/plum Needs more time. $60 HHH1/2 92pts Mr Riggs Burnt savoury red fruit. $50 nose and a dark intensity A nicely maturing Block McLaren Songlines Estates of fruit on the palate Reillys ‘Old Vine’ earthy/leathery style Vale Shiraz 2019 Songlines McLaren with chewy tannins. Stolen Block Clare with hints of prunes HHHH1/2 97pts Vale Shiraz 2019 Needs time. $50 Valley Shiraz 2016 and olives and a long Prune and licorice HHHH 95pts Mr Riggs JFR HHHHH 98pts warming finish. $45 aromas lift off the nose. A massive solid shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Great purple highlights A good palate with smelling of coffee and 2019 HHH 92pts to the colour with lovely Hahndorf Hill plenty of weight and smoked meats with an A eucalypt edge to brooding dark fruit Adelaide Hills Shiraz length and brimming intensity of dark fruits and the nose with a well- bouquet and a dense 2018 HHH 91pts over with bright spicy oak on the palate. $50 structured tannic palate and compact palate An interesting and red fruit flavours. $50 and gamey flavours. $50 layered with black and complex savoury and Chateau Yaldara blue varietal fruit and earthy wine with pleasant Reserve Barossa some excellent oak. $65 astringency. $45 Valley Shiraz 2017 HHH 91pts Tenafeate Creek SHIRAZ A big rich style, almost Museum Release $50-$60 liqueur-like, with earthy, Basket Press One mushroom and prune Tree Hill Shiraz 2013 22 TASTED characters. $50 HHHHH 98pts 15 AWARDED Seville Estate Yarra Still showing a good red Valley Shiraz 2019 colour for its age and A consistent class with HHH 90pts has a mature fruit/oak higher scores across the Dark brooding chocolaty nose with a palate that board and worthy of the fruit that is nicely still has vibrancy with price. Even wines that integrated with the spicy good depth and layering failed to make the cut oak. $50 of aged shiraz fruit were borderline quality. flavours. $60 “A pleasurable class to judge,” said one judge. 56 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

varietal tasting Paulmara Estates McLaren Vale III Golden Amrita Blue Pyrenees Syna Limited Associates Squid Single Estate Richardson Pyrenees Release Barossa Ink (Estate Grown/ Barossa Valley Shiraz 2018 Shiraz 2018 Single Vineyard) Shiraz 2019 HHH1/2 92pts HHHH1/2 97pts McLaren Vale HHHH 94pts Deep red wine with a Lovely nose with Shiraz 2019 Powerful creamy vanillin purple rim. Nose is still a pretty oak and black HHHH1/2 96pts oak influence here with tad closed but the palate fruit aromas. Medium Attractive lift of brooding black fruits offers smooth easy weight palate with great blackberry and plum sitting underneath and drinking. $60 structure and good fragrances nicely an oaky finish. $68 Jack Rabbit Reserve depth and persistence of integrated with the oak Reillys RCV ‘Epitaph’ Bellarine Peninsula dark blue fruits, oak and and has a long, medium Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2018 tannins. $60 bodied palate with dark 2016 HHH1/2 93pts HHH1/2 92pts fruits, good oak and A freshness of dark Marmite-like characters grippy tannins. $65 fruit on the nose with on the nose with a a raisined fruit flavour warming dark fruit palate Reillys RCV profile and chewy that has some drying ‘Epitaph’ Clare tannins. $65 tannins. $60 Valley Shiraz 2018 HHHH1/2 96pts Hemera Estate Glenwillow Wines Clarence Hill Subtlety of spiciness Home Block Barossa Reserve Bendigo Reserve McLaren to the nose with Valley Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2015 Vale Shiraz 2018 interesting funky notes. HHHH 95pts HHH1/2 93pts HHH1/2 92pts Good palate length with Lifted aromatics with Subtle baked fruit Intense aromas with a hints of roasted spices, gentle spicy notes. aromas and caramel-like pretty oak lift. Seamless alcohol heat and charry Uncomplicated dark maturity on the blue fruit palate that’s a good tannins. $65 brooding plum palate palate. Still has good combination of power layered with good quality structure. $60 and subtlety. $65 Gumpara Mader oak. $60 Fox Creek Old Vine Grandeur Wellington Reserve Barossa Patritti JPB McLaren McLaren Vale Shiraz GW Odyssey Valley Shiraz 2019 Vale Shiraz 2019 2019 HHH1/2 92pts McLaren Vale Shiraz HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts Lovely intensity of dark 2016 HHH1/2 92pts Deep plum coloured Subdued candied fruit blue fruit aromas and Meaty/Bonox-like nose wine with good depth bouquet with anise-like lovely long balanced and a savoury palate of brooding dark prune/ notes and oak derived palate; rich and plush but with soy-like notes. “Has plum aromas and flavour profile with firm not over-the-top. $68 lots of personality,” said flavours exhibiting grippy tannins. $65 one judge. $60 licorice and gamey notes with chewy tannins. $60 September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 57

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVI Sidewood Mappinga Domaine Asmara Sanguine Estate Adelaide Hills Shiraz Infinity Heathcote D’Orsa Heathcote 2016 HHH1/2 92pts Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2016 Mature wine showing HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 97pts meaty/gamey characters Ripe plum nose Still seems young for with some toasty complemented by a 5-year-old with an oak and grainy tannin soy/meaty notes. The attractive meld of sweet structure. $65 palate is rich, dense and dark fruit, oak and grippy Harcourt Valley complex with masses tannins with has subtle Vineyards Old Vine of menthol characters development evolving. Bendigo Shiraz layered with “chippy” $70 2019 HHH 91pts oak and silky smooth Z Wine [JULIUS] Peppery spicy accents tannins. $79 Barossa Valley to the briary/forest Shiraz 2019 fruits. “Very Rhone-like,” HHHH1/2 96pts thought one judge. $60 Intense nose; aromas of dark fruits with Carillion Origins Kurtz Family Zonte’s perfumed accents. Fenestella Hunter Vineyards Lunar Footstep Age of Excellent varietal fruit Valley Shiraz Block Barossa Valley Enlightenment flavours layered with 2019 HHH 90pts Shiraz 2018 McLaren Vale Shiraz oak and grainy tannins. A blue fruit nose and HHHHH 98pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts Good palate weight and palate with a slight A fragrant fusion of An elegant, complex length. $70 vegetative note and grainy fruit, lavender and black and intense shiraz that Sanguine Estate chalky tannins. $60 pepper with a dash exhibits great length of D’Orsa Heathcote of garam masala! The dark fruits, mocha and Shiraz 2018 Fermoy Reserve palate fills out with chocolaty characters. HHHH1/2 96pts Margaret River dark brooding fruit and Very good use of oak The nose shouts of fruit, Shiraz 2018 tobacco oak with meaty with attractive chewy coffee and toasty oak. HHH 90pts accents. $75 tannins. $75 Smooth and complex in Dusty oak bouquet and Sussex Squire Wines the mouth with lovely dark earthy characters JRS Barrel Selection varietal fruit and some on the mocha and plum Clare Valley Shiraz pencil shaving-like oak fruit palate. $65 2018 HHHHH 98pts with chewy tannins. $70 Lovely aromas of Glenwillow Wines Thorn-Clarke William blueberries and plums Reserve Bendigo Randell Barossa lift off the nose with a Shiraz 2014 Shiraz 2018 faint whiff of spices. HHH 90pts HHHHH 98pts The sultry, spicy blue Chocolaty Sarsaparilla Compact varietal fruit fruit, cola palate is nicely aromas with sweet fragrances delicately balanced with well- fruit flavours on a well- laced with perfumed handled oak. $75 structured palate. $60 characters and a smooth merger of SHIRAZ sweet blue fruits, $70-$80 eucalypt and coffee flavours. Great balance 23 TASTED and structure. $70 20 AWARDED Another very strong and Welland Old Hands Zonte’s Footstep consistent class. “There Barossa Shiraz 2019 Z-Force McLaren are few pretenders HHHH1/2 97pts Vale Shiraz 2018 here and this is where A fragrant medley HHHH1/2 96pts stylistic interpretation of black fruits with Elusive chocolaty/dark comes in to play,” said meaty/smoky nuances. fruit aromas and very one judge. “Here we Very good length and pleasant combination of see serious quality oak complexity to the palate chocolaty and black fruit which is well balanced with a gamey-like edge flavours on the palate and not overdone.” to the sweet blue fruit with dusty oak and flavours. $70 chewy tannins. $75 58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

varietal tasting The Old Faithful Ferngrove Vineyards Shingleback Hemera Estate Barossa Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz Dragon Western Unedited McLaren Marananga Barossa Lifeblood Barossa 2017 HHHH1/2 96pts Australia Shiraz Vale Shiraz 2018 Valley Shiraz 2018 Valley Shiraz 2017 Pretty candied fruit 2019 HHH 91pts HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts bouquet with a tincture Good spicy lift to the The nose projects “Very Rhone-like,” A shy nose; some of lavender and a dark fruit nose with aromas of blackberry thought one judge. fruit, some age. Tightly delightfully harmonious peppery fruit flavours fruit with vibrant layers Briary fruit bouquet with structured, medium palate with great and some herbal of dark fruits flavour well vanilla accents that are weight, palate with oak integration of shiraz fruit touches. $70 balanced by the oak with repeated on the long and stewed plum-like with licorice notes and just a hint of citrus peel lingering palate. Some flavours. $80 the oak. $75 Grampians Estate and tannins building gamey notes and good Hemera Estate Bec Hardy Reserve Streeton Reserve across the palate. $80 use of oak. $80 Aurora Barossa McLaren Vale Shiraz Grampians Shiraz Sussex Squire Wines Haselgrove The Valley Shiraz 2017 2019 HHHH 94pts 2018 HHH 91pts JRS HACKETT Barrel Ambassador HHHH 94pts Intense aromas of dark Leafy cool climate Selection Clare McLaren Vale Shiraz A cool climate style fruits with good weight fruit here that is nicely Valley Shiraz 2018 2018 HHHH 94pts with very good intensity and length to the floral complemented by good HHHHH 98pts An intensity of and complexity of dark blue fruit palate layered use of oak. $75 “Lots of character here,” blackberry jam-like blue fruits and gorgeous with oak and chewy said one judge. Nose is aromas with nicely spicy oak. Nice level of tannins. $70 Saddler’s Creek a very attractive fusion focused blue fruit tannins. $80 Sanguine Estate Alessandro Reserve of dark fruits, meaty/ flavours seamlessly McGuigan Personal D’Orsa Heathcote Hunter Valley Shiraz gamey notes, cinnamon integrated with the Reserve Bainton Shiraz 2017 2019 HHH 90pts and cloves. Great oak. $85 Hunter Valley Shiraz HHHH 94pts A lighter weight style concentration of flavours 2017 HHHH 94pts Mature and powerful with blueberry fruit, on the soft palate. $90 Dark fruit nose with a toasty smoky aromas some leafy tones and perfumed lift and sweet on the nose with a bacon bone-like oak. $75 plum flavours with plush sweet fruit palate attractive oak influence driven by bacon bone- SHIRAZ and some grippy like oak. $70 $80-$100 tannins. $80 The Old Faithful Sorby Adams McLaren Vale Shiraz 18 TASTED The Couch Barossa 2016 HHHH 94pts 18 AWARDED Shiraz 2017 Dark sweet shiraz HHHH 94pts fruit on the nose that As with the previous Plum bouquet with carries through to the class this was a mixed prune-like traces. palate and integrates group with many Loads of mocha oak on nicely with the oak and excellent wines. “Here the palate with good tannins. $75 we also saw older varietal fruit sitting Pirramimma wines, well maintained underneath. $95 Ironstone McLaren and showing their class,” Vale Shiraz 2019 said one judge. HHH1/2 92pts Obvious coconut McGuigan Personal characters to the nose. Reserve VV Hunter Palate driven by the Valley Shiraz 2018 vanillin oak characters HHHHH 98pts with lovely dense fruit A delightful nose of underneath. $70 blackberry and fruits Z Wine [JULIUS] of the forest with a Barossa Valley delicious concoction Shiraz 2018 of dark fruit flavours HHH1/2 92pts edged with camphor Nose afraid to give and tobacco. Nice anything away. grainy tannins. Needs Straightforward palate time. $80 with secondary characters developing. $70 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 92pts A mature seamless combination of varietal fruit, meaty/smallgoods and mouth puckering tannins. $76 September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 59

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVI Fox Creek Reserve McGuigan Personal McLaren Vale III Z Wine [POOLE] Tenafeate Creek McLaren Vale Shiraz Reserve VV Hunter Associates Giant Old Vine Barossa Museum Release 2016 HHHH 94pts Valley Shiraz 2017 Squid Ink (Estate Valley Shiraz 2018 Judgement One Cool menthol notes to HHH1/2 92pts Grown/Reserve/ HHHHH 98pts Tree Hill Shiraz 2010 the nose with developed A sweet concoction of Single Vineyard) A delight to drink HHHHH 98pts savoury fruit characters blackberry and vanilla McLaren Vale Shiraz with its dark brooding Ageing very well and on the palate. Good use aromas and layers of 2019 HHHHH 98pts blueberry and black still showing plenty of of oak and plenty of dark fruit and toasty oak A refined savoury fruits, gorgeous oak, fruit that’s layered with tannins. $90 flavours. $80 style of shiraz with a velvety tannins, and rum and raisin chocolate Seville Estate Old charming nose that has elements of spiciness. characters. Has a long, Vine Reserve Yarra Barossa Valley Wine pretty lifted aromas and It has plenty of length, grippy and drying palate Valley Shiraz 2018 Company Farms a really pretty palate power and drive. $120 rich with flavour. $150 HHH1/2 93pts Barossa Valley that exhibits plenty of Tenafeate Creek Pretty, lifted floral Shiraz 2018 power and chocolaty Sorby Adams Museum Release aromatics with smoky HHH 91pts complexity. $180 The Thing Barossa Basket Press One accents. Subtle Dark fruit aromas and Grandeur Wellington Shiraz 2017 Tree Hill Shiraz 2003 complexity to the flavours with gamey Cellar Reserve HHHHH 98pts HHHHH 98pts palate with lovely oak notes, firm acid and a McLaren Vale Shiraz Faint funky fragrances Colour showing support. $80 slight metallic note on 2018 HHHHH 98pts to the nose with aged brick red edge. Planta Circa the finish. $80 A luscious luxurious interesting medicinal Developed savoury nose Ancestor Vine wine that is a potent notes. The palate fills that still shows some Barossa Valley Greenstone Emerald complexity of ripe black out with attractive varietal fruit. Voluptuous Shiraz 2019 Heathcote Shiraz fruits and plum jam sweet vanillin oak palate, good length and HHH1/2 92pts 2013 HHH 91pts characters with loads flavours with coconut complexity of savoury Deep purple wine Mature nose but still of lovely oak, roasted nuances and nice fruit fruit flavours. $100 with jubey sweet showing some nice fruit spices and a hint of underneath. $150 Curtis Family fruit characters, some with moderate weight alcohol heat. $120 Tenafeate Creek Vineyards Pasha Bin butterscotch and and complexity to the Judgement One 388 MV McLaren good oak with grainy palate. $95 Tree Hill Shiraz 2016 Vale Shiraz 2018 tannins. $80 HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts Arila Gardens SHIRAZ Inky purple wine; an old An old fashioned style Quartz and Sand $100-$200 school style done well. reminiscent of a rum Garden Barossa Has a nose offering a and raisin chocolate Valley Shiraz 2019 30 TASTED head full of cherry cola bar. Vanillin oak tending HHH1/2 92pts 30 AWARDED aromas. Soft in the to dominate with Minty/menthol characters mouth with brooding interesting soy sauce- mingle with the sweet Very consistent group varietal fruit in the red like elements. $100 blue fruit. Good mid that you would expect spectrum. $100 palate sweet flavour at this price but don’t Monteperle concentration. $85 always get! “In general Reserve Barossa Haselgrove Col these showed good Valley Shiraz 2018 Cross McLaren Vale fruit, good oak and good HHHH1/2 96pts Shiraz 2019 winemaking,” enthused “Lots happening here,” HHH1/2 92pts one judge. “The noted one judge. Has A firm, well-structured concentrated wines here crimson highlights, dark shiraz with plenty of performed very well and brooding fruit, loads of sweet dark varietal fruit there are more of these charry oak with meaty and attractive dusty with appropriate oak smoky notes and very tannins. $90 balance.” grippy tannins. $185 Chateau Tanunda 50 Year Old Vines Barossa Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 92pts Confectionery-like red fruit here with a potpourri edge and grippy tannins. “A nice slurpy wine!” $80 60 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

varietal tasting Blue Pyrenees Kurtz Family Pooles Rock Gralyn Estate SHIRAZ $200+ Richardson Reserve Vineyards Schmick Centenary Hunter Reserve Margaret Pyrenees Shiraz Barossa Valley Valley Shiraz 2017 River Shiraz 2017 12 TASTED 2017 HHHH1/2 96pts Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 93pts HHH 91pts 12 AWARDED A mocha-like bouquet HHHH 94pts A harmonious wine A firmly structured, with lots of toasty oak An unusual and – smells of cola with cool climate, Rhone-like “An exceptional group and lovely blueberry fruit interesting style; an coffee notes and fruits wine; spicy, peppery of concentrated wines,” underneath. Luxurious amalgam of dark fruits, of the forest palate with and stemmy with floral agreed the judges. “I palate has an abundance celery, bacon bone oak, some meatiness. $120 notes. $120 have not seen a better of sweet fruit/oak green spiciness and Pirramimma Chateau Tanunda flight of shiraz and syrah flavours. Nice old school leafy accents. $100 Warhorse McLaren 100 Year Old Vines wines with such a lovely style. $150 Hemera Estate Vale Shiraz 2019 Barossa Shiraz level of elegance and Fenrir Barossa Valley JDR Barossa Valley HHH 91pts 2017 HHH 91pts concentration,” said one Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2017 Floral fragrances with A generous wine with judge. “These are not HHHH 94pts HHHH 94pts musky notes and dark excellent intensity over extracted and show A charming classic A balanced mid-weight brooding oak/fruit and length and nice beautiful balance of with intense licorice wine with lovely fruit flavours. $100 “squishy” red fruit. $160 expensive, appropriately characters on the nose intensity showing Yarra Yering Tempus Two Uno handled, oak with the and dense layers of rich some development and Underhill Yarra Bainton Hunter expressive fruit.” “Again ripe fruit and coconut toasty/charry oak to add Valley Shiraz 2019 Valley Shiraz Pinot the aged wines showed oak flavours. $100 complexity. $120 HHH 91pts 2017 HHH 90pts their pedigree,” said Paulmara Estates Tempus Two Uno Spicy cool climate fruit Sweet fruit fragrances another. Aristotle Barossa Tinklers Hunter characters with lifted with the grippy tannins Shiraz 2018 Valley Shiraz Pinot florals and tight acid and tending to flood the dark Bec Hardy Wines HHHH 94pts 2017 HHHH 94pts tannins. $120 fruit palate. $150 Pertaringa Yeoman Interesting funky Purple hues to this Yarra Yering Dry Red Curtis Family McLaren Vale Shiraz character to the taut interesting layered wine Wine No. 2 Yarra Vineyards Curtis 2018 HHHHH 98pts spicy nose with blue that has modest length Valley Shiraz Mataro Limited McLaren Deep plum coloured fruit and rose petal and complexity with Viognier 2019 Vale Shiraz 2016 wine – still very youthful, flavours. “For those stalky fruit showing HHH 91pts HHH 90pts has intense aromas of who like something some smokiness. $150 A layered and elegant Developed nutty plum black fruits and spicy oak different!” $100 Tempus Two Uno blend with blueberry nose and good palate with coffee-like accents. Audrey Wilkinson Hunter Valley Shiraz fruit, lifted florals and persistence showing Palate rich with sweet ‘The Lake’ Hunter 2017 HHHH 94pts savoury tannins. $120 subtle complexity. $100 and peppery varietal Valley Shiraz 2018 Subdued aromas; some Tempus Two Uno fruit. $250 HHHH 94pts toasty/mocha. Firm Hunter Valley Shiraz Quite inky in colour tannic palate bright with 2019 HHH 91pts Z Wine [HEIN] with a closed nose and blueberry/plum flavours Nose has a meaty Ancestor Vine firmly structured palate and spicy oak. Long gamey personality with Barossa Valley offering a smooth finish. $150 spice edged fruit on a Shiraz 2018 mouthful of fruit and Shanahans If tannic palate. $150 HHHHH 98pts oak flavours. $120 Forever Exists Delicate fragrances Z Wine [PLOWMAN] Barossa Valley of fruits of the forest. Dry Grown Barossa Shiraz 2016 Generous length and Valley Shiraz 2018 HHHH 94pts persistence of sweet HHHH 94pts A savoury Rhone-like fruit flavours and lovely Slight candied notes to style with brooding and tannin structure. “A the blackberry aromas complex layers of five wine for the long haul,” with more blackberries spices and Dutch licorice suggested one judge. obvious on the palate on the dense chewy $300 with currant-like palate. $120 elements. $120 Curtis Family Paul Jaboulet Tempus Two Uno Vineyards Martins Aine La Chapelle Hunter Valley Shiraz Vineyard Limited Hermitage France 2018 HHHH 94pts McLaren Vale Shiraz Syrah 2018 A lift of red berries 2016 HHHH 94pts HHHHH 98pts on the nose with Savoury/soy nose Elegant perfumed briary moderate weight and with hints of forest fruit bouquet with forest complexity of blue fruit undergrowth characters. floor fruit notes. Layers flavours lifted by floral The plum/raisined fruit of bramble fruit flavours nuances. $150 palate has good intensity with attractive spiciness, and balance. $150 loads of beautiful oak and great tannin structure. $820 September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 61

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVI Henschke Hill Of Wolf Blass Medlands Gumpara HEXEN Follow us and keep up to Grace Barossa Valley Vineyard Platinum Barossa Valley date with all our latest Shiraz 2016 Label Barossa Shiraz 2015 wine info, tastings and HHHHH 98pts Valley Shiraz 2018 HHHH1/2 97pts Amazing aromas ranging HHHH1/2 97pts A provocative mix of events on facebook, from plums to prunes Inky purple wine with mature ripe varietal fruits twitter and instagram. with a hit of licorice very intense dark ripe and mocha elements that follows through to fruit fragrances. Fresh – very good length and Connect on social with the warming and still and rich in the mouth underpinned by lovely Winestate youthful palate with and brimming over with bacon bone-like oak and everything in perfect lifted floral blue fruits, grippy tannins. $240 www.facebook.com/Winestate- harmony. $785 smooth tannins and Magazine Penfolds Grange Bin great oak. $200 95 South Australia Bec Hardy Wines twitter.com/winestateed Shiraz 2016 Pertaringa Yeoman www.instagram.com/winestate/ HHHHH 98pts McLaren Vale Shiraz A great wine; a distinctly 2017 HHHH1/2 97pts oaky style showing A distinctively cool fantastic length and climate style with an intensity and well elegance of spicy meaty matched with massive aromas and generous amounts of sweet fruit core of dark fruit flavours and plenty of tannins. “A on the palate seamlessly monster!” $960 integrated with the oak. E.Guigal La $250 Landonne Cote- Rotie France Syrah 2016 HHHHH 98pts Funky savoury/soy nose; excellent depth and intensity. Oodles of structure to the palate with flavours reminiscent of bacon fat and fruits of the forest and hints of cola and raisins. $1,200 www.winestate.com.au Gralyn Estate 1847 Wines Grand 1847 Wines First Margaret River Pappys Barossa Pick Barossa Valley Shiraz Cabernet Valley Shiraz 2016 Shiraz 2017 2001 HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH 96pts A beautifully matured Attractive nutty leathery A gamey/meaty style wine. “Makes you think development to the with smoky nuances. of a comfortable old nose with amazing Lovely palate length, leather chair,” suggested length of sweet plum/ great fruit weight, one judge. It is generous prune fruit flavours gorgeous oak with nice and brooding and showing a savoury chewy tannins and drinking very well right backbone and very well ageing beautifully. $480 now. $500 handled oak. $320 62 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

Like a bull at a gate, Son of A Bull wines are ‘live in the moment’ wines. Lively, fresh and filled with energy, they are made to drink young - no cellaring required. Spontaneous and uninhibited, frisky and raring to go, Son of a Bull embraces the spirit of the young bull and all its unbridled wonder. Variety RRP Sauvignon Blanc $29.00 Pinot Noir $29.00 { UNINHIBITED, FRISKY & RARING TO GO | Trade and NSW Distributor contact: Distributor contact: russellandsuitorwines Kim O’Hara Bouchon Wines & Spirits russellandsuitor Periscope Management 16 Prospect Street, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 Mob: +61 421 077 344 Tel: +61 07 3854 0407 [email protected] [email protected] Distributor contact: Distributor contact: Claret & Co | Scott Teasdale Unique Wine Solutions | Stephen Nankervis 13 View Street, Subiaco WA 6008 PO Box 106, Port Melbourne Vic 3207 Mob: +61 447 087 998 Mob: +61 414 388 046 [email protected] [email protected]

NORTH EAST VICTORIA 146 TASTED 96 AWARDED EMERGING VARIETALS Have these non-mainstream ABC varietals finally become accepted Berton Vineyards Michelini Wines beyond the interest of the winemakers who make them? We really Winemakers Reserve Alpine Valleys think so. What is truly exciting is that the quality overall has jumped Riverina Fiano 2021 Arneis 2021 HHHH dramatically as the age of the wines has increased along with the HHH 90pts 94pts understanding of how to make them by the winemakers. No longer Passionfruit and citrus Floral pome fruit is it acceptable to have wines that emulate shiraz, or were just dry peel on the nose with bouquet evolving to reds and dry whites, but we are now seeing great examples that similar characters on the apple-like flavours on the emulate the best wines of the old countries. If you haven’t tried creamy palate. $16 crisp and crunchy palate. these before now is the time to do so. Plenty of acid sensure Sew & Sew Sashiko freshness. $25 SPARKLING Gapsted Wines High Adelaide Hills Fiano Country King Valley 2021 HHH 90pts Artwine Ti Amo 5 TASTED Prosecco NV Bright green wine with Single Vineyard 4 AWARDED HHH 90pts lifted floral stonefruit Clare Valley Arneis Bright green colour, a fragrances and a full- 2021 HHH 91pts A small consistent fine bead, green apple bodied palate. $25 Exotic tropical aromas class of light and fresh aromas and flavours and with a long bright and sparklings aimed at the crisp acidity. $20 Artwine Wicked crunchy palate with nice popular easy drinking Stepmother Single phenolic notes. $35 market. Trentham Estate Vineyard Clare The Family Frizzante Valley Fiano 2021 VERMENTINO Artwine Prosecco Maestri 2021 HHH 90pts Bianca Clare Valley HHH 90pts Floral/lemonade-like 8 TASTED Prosecco 2021 A luscious mix of aromas and is sweet, 4 AWARDED HHHH 94pts chocolate and sweet black nutty and creamy in the Super, clean, bright and berries with “clever” mouth. $35 Mixed results. The best refreshing style with an tannins to match. $18 were clean and balanced excellent fine bead and ARNEIS and more delicate in aromas and flavours FIANO style. of pears and apple 6 TASTED blossom. $25 12 TASTED 4 AWARDED Berton Vineyards 5 AWARDED Metal Label Riverina Strong line-up of nicely Vermentino 2021 Gapsted Wines Mixed bag. Many of Gemtree Luna framed wines with huge HHH1/2 93pts Limited Release these have just been Crescente McLaren potential. Minerally floral fruit Pinot Grigio bottled and need settling Vale Fiano 2021 fragrances. Palate is Rose King Valley down. HHHH1/2 96pts Are You Game? light, bright and tight Sparkling Rosé NV Fragrances of apples and Strathbogie Ranges with a nice spritzig note. HHH 91pts cashews with a pretty Arneis 2020 $14 Floral strawberry floral lift and a full-bodied HHHH1/2 97pts bouquet and simple palate that is rich with Green apple nose with Zonte’s Footstep bright fruit flavours. Nice stonefruit and apple nutty nuances and a Lady Marmalade off-dry drinking. $25 flavours and has a nice dash of spice. Very Fleurieu Vermentino minerally thread. $26 creamy in the mouth 2021 HHH1/2 92pts with citrus and baked Slightly pungent floral, apple flavours with good grapefruit bouquet and line of acidity. $20 pleasant varietal definition to the palate. $25 Handcrafted Carillion Lovable Adelaide Hills Rogue Abboccato Arneis 2021 Hunter Valley Fiano HHHH1/2 96pts 2021 HHH 91pts Super lifted nose with Fresh lime/lemon aromas of passionfruit, bouquet and a apples and tropical fruits. refreshing, light bodied, Great varietal texture citrus driven palate. $30 to the palate with long lingering freshness of green apple/citrus flavours. $25 64 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

r ef egai ot unrael t a s t i n g Carillion Lovable Handcrafted Saint Clair Family Rogue Skin Contact Adelaide Hills Estate Pioneer Block Hunter Valley Gruner Veltliner 17 Plateau Hawke’s Vermentino 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Bay Viognier 2020 2021 HHH 90pts More of a savoury style HHH1/2 92pts Lifted tropical/citrus showing good varietal Spicy apricot characters style with savoury characters, great texture on the green apple nose. nuances and underlying and nice line of acid. $25 The palate is sweet, spiciness. $30 floral and nicely fruity. Hahndorf Hill White $28.90 Chalmers Heathcote Mischief Adelaide Vermentino 2020 Hills Gruner Veltliner Artwine The Real HHH 90pts 2021 HHH 91pts Thing Single Clean and crisp with Lemony bouquet with Vineyard Clare peach/tropical characters an herbal element Valley Albarino 2021 and some residual that follows on to the HHH 91pts sweetness. $27 savoury/green apple Oily spicy style. Some palate. $24 residual sweetness, GRUNER high acid and appealing VELTLINER Chain Of Ponds tropical fruits. $35 Unchained Adelaide 7 TASTED Hills Gruner Veltliner Sorby Adams Wines Tahbilk Saint Clair Family 5 AWARDED 2021 HHH 91pts Gudilly Adelaide Museum Release Estate Pioneer Block Floral/green apple Pinot Blanc 2020 Nagambie Lakes 28 Camp Block Solid class of bouquet with similar HHHHH 98pts Marsanne 2015 Marlborough flavoursome wines flavours supported by a Buttery, nutty and HHHH1/2 96pts Pinot Blanc 2019 showing varietal good level of acid. $26 almost chardonnay-like Aged buttery toasty HHH 91pts integrity and offering aromas with nicely bouquet projecting Minerally green apple great potential. OTHER WHITE textured rounded marmalade nuances. bouquet and maturing VARIETALS & savoury palate exhibiting Creamy palate still dry white style palate. Tomich Woodside BLENDS great stonefruit flavours shows balance and $28.90 Vineyard Adelaide with spicy biscuity persistence with spicy Hills Gruner Veltliner 21 TASTED nuances. $25 apple crumble-like Susuro Farfalla 2020 12 AWARDED Handcrafted flavours. Some acid. Mornington HHHH1/2 97pts Limestone Coast $25.70 Peninsula Friulano A mature nutty and Interesting line-up of Verdelho 2021 Artwine Prego Clare 2019 HHH 91pts buttery bouquet with different white varieties. HHHH1/2 97pts Valley Pinot Grigio Aromatic chardonnay- slight tropical notes. “Fifty shades of white,” A bright green 2021 HHH1/2 93pts like aromas with Oily on the palate with suggested one judge. wine, full of life and Gooseberries and buttery roasted nut-like a mouth filling balance vitality. Intense spicy grapefruit lift off the flavours. $39 of savoury based sweet fruit nose and nose with pleasant flavours. $25 confectionery tropical gooseberry edged green Trentham VBBAEULSYUTSE flavours on medium apple flavours. Nice Estate Grown Saint Clair Family bodied palate with a acidity. $25 Pinot Gris 2021 Estate Pioneer high level of acid. $25 Artwine Madame HHH 90pts Block 5 Bull Block V Single Vineyard Subtle sweet pear Marlborough Gruner Clare Valley Viognier nose. Appropriately Veltliner 2020 2020 HHH1/2 93pts creamy and oily in HHH1/2 93pts Nose is floral and slightly the mouth with pear A subtle and elegant tropical with a whiff of flavours. $18 wine that’s more of a apricots. Great palate dry white style with a texture. Good varietal Chalmers Heathcote good line of acid. $28.90 flavours. $25 Greco 2020 HHH 90pts Ageing citrus peel fragrances and an acid driven palate with nice toasty elements. $31 JUDGES Shane Harris Sara Zhang Alex Russell Winemaker for Wines by Winemaker atTWG (The Wine Owner/winemaker, Russell Geoff Hardy including, K1 and Group). Previously vintaged & Suitor wines, making Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy at Berri Estates, West Cape alternative varieties from Wines. Has also completed Howe, WA and Grower Pipers River (Tasmania), to vintages in Queensland and Wine Group in Australia. Mildura (Victoria) and Riverland Victoria. Completed the AWRI Overseas includes Villa Maria, (South Australia). He has been advanced sensory course Marlborough and Bordeaux a pioneer in introducing rare and has associate judged at for six months, Right Bank varietals such as saperavi, McLaren Vale Wine Show. Chateaux, through a Bordeaux lagrein, montepulciano, Winestate Winemaker of the consultant. Has judged at the monastrell and many others Year in 2009, 2019 & 2020. Riverland wine show. into the marketplace. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 65

EMERGING VAR IETAL S Centennial Artwine The Grace Handcrafted Handcrafted Zilzie Platinum Vineyards Reserve Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Tannat Edition Langhorne Southern Highlands Clare Valley Teroldego 2019 2018 HHHH 94pts Creek Malbec 2019 NSW Albarino Graciano 2020 HHHH1/2 97pts Dark inky wine with bold HHH1/2 92pts 2019 HHH 90pts HHHH1/2 97pts An inky blackberry and black and blue fruits, Black/purple wine with Developed nutty/doughy Big hit of perfumed and blueberry bouquet with herbal hints, peppery peppery fruit, some nose with more of the spicy red currant-like fruit just a hint of mint. Plum notes and superfine spiciness, a dash of same on the balanced aromas. Sweet, fresh and chocolate characters tannins. “Serve with a pepper and noticeable palate. $30 and juicy in the mouth fill out the high acid spoon!” $30 tannins. $35 with spicy chocolaty palate and has mouth- Winton Road Bassham SA Mencia ROSÉ flavours laced with plums coating tannins. $30 Barossa Valley 2020 HHH 91pts and some mintiness. $32 Centennial Grenache 2018 Pleasant perfumed 3 TASTED Gapsted Wines Vineyards Bridge HHHH 94pts sweet cherry/berry 2 AWARDED Limited Release Creek Orange A complexity of caramel, nose and palate. Still Alpine Valleys NSW Mencia 2019 blackberry and cola very young with soft A couple of good Saperavi 2019 HHHH1/2 96pts aromas with a lovely tannins. $25 quaffers. HHHH1/2 97pts A complex and nicely long lingering tarry and Artwine Grumpy Earthy fruit fragrances maturing wine with sour spicy fruit palate. $40 Old Man Single Artwine Temptress with prune-like notes cherry and cough syrup- Vineyard Clare Single Vineyard and a peppery lift. Very like fruit characters. Hahndorf Hill Valley Grenache Clare Valley Rosé good high acid palate Shows good use of oak, Blueblood Adelaide 2020 HHH 91pts 2020 HHH 91pts with ripe plum and has soft tannins and a Hills Blaufrankisch A spicy black fruit nose Attractive medley blackberry flavours and high level of acid. $30 2018 HHHH 94pts with oak on top and a of sour cherries and soft, but noticeable, Handcrafted Earthy blue fruit bouquet sweet chocolaty fruit strawberries. Fresh tannins. $31 Limestone Coast with some mintiness palate. $38 fragrances and intense Adelaide Hills and some spiciness and Michelini Wines flavours. $25 Lagrein 2019 a rustic/meaty palate Alpine Valleys HHHH1/2 96pts with some plums. Very Barbera 2019 The Bio Project A big wine with brooding drinkable. $45 HHH 91pts Monastrell McLaren black cherry and plum The Anarchist Leathery earthy bouquet Vale Dry Rosé 2020 fruits layered with Padthaway Graciano and savoury sour cherry HHH 90pts licorice, earthiness and 2018 HHH1/2 93pts palate with drying Pungent quince-like spices with a minty/ A complex well oaked tannins. $25 aromas with a sweet peppery lift. Lots of soft wine with fresh minty/ Hahndorf Hill Zsa and slightly funky tannins. Should age very peppery blackberry Zsa Adelaide Hills stonefruit palate. $25 well. $30 aromas and a high acid Zweigelt 2018 Kalleske Fordson red cherry palate. $30 HHH 91pts OTHER RED Barossa Valley Whistling Kite Super ripe berry VARIETALS & Zinfandel 2020 Riverland Mencia jam nose and sweet BLENDS HHHH 94pts 2020 HHH1/2 92pts fruitiness on the palate Peppery red currant Attractive dark briary/ with olive notes. $40 27 TASTED aromas with an leafy fruit that is nicely Yarravale Black 24 AWARDED herbaceous hint and framed by the gravelly Label Barbera an intense inky berry tannins and fresh 2015 HHH 91pts Very consistent class of compote of a palate. Well acidity. $35 A fruit driven nose with clean, well made wines. oaked. Good acid. $28 dried fruit-like flavour Lots of varying varietals Artwine Pack Leader profile on a high acid and styles here. Lots of Single Vineyard palate. $36 fun to try these. Clare Valley Bassham SA Cabernet Franc 2020 Graciano 2020 Alejandro Murray HHHH 94pts HHH 90pts Darling Saperavi Ripe briary bouquet Savoury meaty fruit and 2020 HHHHH 98pts complemented by bacon bone-like oak Dark inky red colour. herbal elements. A big with chocolaty/peppery Oak is “loud” on the oaky/tannic palate with elements. $28 nose but the floral sweet and peppery fruit cherry/prune fruit carries flavours. $38 it well. Big oaky palate Pensilva Estate smoothly integrated South Australia with sweet, spicy and Grenache 2019 fleshy fruit. $25 HHHH 94pts Transparent ruby red wine with a sweet spicy fruit cake nose and tasting of cherries, rhubarb and spices. Soft tannins. $20 66 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

feature tasting Heartland Sposa Woody Nook Wines Reillys Dry Land Mr Riggs Sanjo E Sposa Langhorne Limited Release Clare Valley Adelaide Hills Creek Lagrein G&T Margaret Tempranillo 2018 Sangiovese 2020 Dolcetto 2019 River Tempranillo HHH 91pts HHHH 94pts HHH 90pts Graciano 2019 A mature wine; A lovely straightforward Great “marriage” HHH1/2 93pts chocolaty and licoricey ruby red wine. Sweet of varieties offering Big dark inky wine; a mix with herbs and pepper spicy red fruit fragrances sweet, spicy and inky of fruit cake and meaty/ and chewy tannins. $32 and peppery palate full characters. $20 beef stock characters Sanguine Estate of red apple/strawberry with mouth-coating Heathcote characters. $35 Bassham SA tannins. $28 Tempranillo 2019 Tinta Barroca HHH 90pts Gapsted Wines 2019 HHH 90pts Nicely ageing, silky Tobacco Road King Nutty nougat nose with smooth, straightforward Valley Sangiovese intense, almost fortified- dry red with licorice, Barbera 2019 like, palate with spicy spices and pepper. $30 HHH 91pts notes. $30 Complexity of tar, spices BVWC The Residence Woody Nook Wines and mulberries on the Centennial Barossa Valley Killdog Creek nose and juicy red fruit Vineyards Reserve Tempranillo 2020 Margaret River palate. $16 Orange NSW HHHH 94pts Tempranillo 2018 Rondinella Corvina A huge oaky bouquet HHH 90pts Farm To Table 2019 HHH 90pts with some berry fruits A big oaky/tannic Strathbogie Ranges Stonefruit fragrances underneath. Palate is style. Quite chocolaty Sangiovese 2019 with some mintiness fleshy but has elegance with good tannin/acid HHH 91pts and sweet fruit with nice red fruit balance. $24 Nose of sweet spices flavours. $37 flavours. $35 and red cherries and The Anarchist pleasant red cherry TEMPRANILLO Capital Wines South Australia flavours. Easy drinking. & BLENDS The Ambassador Tempranillo 2020 $17 Riverina Tempranillo HHH 90pts 17 TASTED 2021 HHH 91pts A cherry pie nose and Gapsted Wines 13 AWARDED A drink now wine. Spicy very savoury meaty Limited Release cherry and red licorice palate. Quite complex Heathcote Consistent class of nose and perfumed red with loads of tannins. $30 Sangiovese similar styles. “Lots fruit flavours. $32 2019 HHH 91pts of simple cherry and SANGIOVESE & Attractive garnet hues to raspberry fruit flavours BLENDS this lean and green wine. here,” said one judge. It has hints of licorice 10 TASTED and sweet spices on the Crisanto South 7 AWARDED palate. $31 East Australia Tempranillo Gapsted Wines High Shingleback El A mixed group that Hollydene Orange Graciano Grenache Country King Valley Capitan McLaren generally are more dry NSW Sangiovese 2020 HHHH 94pts Tempranillo 2019 Vale Tempranillo red styles rather than 2016 HHH 91pts Intense lifted ripe fruit HHHH 94pts 2020 HHH 91pts varietals with the best Soft well aged wine and sweet spice nose Beginning to show some Briary berry bouquet and showing their pedigree. with lingering leathery, with a peppery palate, age with a leathery/ fleshy plum palate with chocolaty and cherry-like chewy tannins and good meaty nose and fruit a hint of mint and dash Reillys Dry Land characters. $25 acidity. Good drinking! cake-like characters on of pepper. $25 Clare Valley $14.30 the palate with old spicy The Bio Project Sangiovese 2016 Ganzo Tuscany Italy oak. $20 McLaren Vale HHHH1/2 97pts Sangiovese 2019 Artwine Hola Single Tempranillo Blend Nose is a delightful HHH 90pts Vineyard Clare 2020 HHH 91pts compote of cherries, Sweet spicy complexity Valley Tempranillo Super peppery hit to the chocolate and to the nose and a soft 2020 HHHH 94pts cherry nose and more mushrooms. Nicely licorice driven palate Loads of red fruits on pepper on the fleshy textured palate with a with good acidity. $25 the nose with a bright fruit palate. $25 lingering complexity of violet-like lift and a Woody Nook Wines chocolate and cherries – MONTEPULICANO savoury chocolaty Killdog Creek mint and herbs. $32 & BLENDS palate with elegant Margaret River tannins. $32 Tempranillo 2019 10 TASTED HHH 91pts 6 AWARDED Spicy peppery fruit fragrances and good Some issued with oak acid/oak integration on selection here. “Watch the dry red palate. $24 the cropping levels,” advised one judge. “You need to have the oak matching the fruit intensity.” September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 67

EMERGING VAR IETAL S Bassham SA NERO Dee Vine Estate Montepulciano D’AVOLA Nericon Riverina 2020 HHH 90pts Durif 2018 Lifted fruit nose and 5 TASTED HHHH1/2 97pts warming fleshy plum 3 AWARDED Dark purple wine – a palate with silky smooth lovely mix of plum tannins. $30 Bright fresh wines - jam and cherry pie- Whistling Kite more consistent results like aromas. Fleshy Biodynamic than from some of the flavours reminiscent of Riverland previous flights. Sarsaparilla. Great palate Montepulciano structure and good level 2017 HHH 90pts of acidity. $11.99 Well-aged with lots of licorice and forest floor Chalmers Heathcote Alejandro Riverland and peppery characters; Nero D’Avola 2020 Durif 2020 some spiciness. $35 HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH 94pts Super lifted spicy Big, dark and juicy AGLIANICO strawberry/cherry purple wine with nose with a trace of beautiful blackberry/ 4 TASTED perfumed characters. blueberry fruit laced with The soft approachable some dark chocolate and 2 AWARDED palate has a fleshy dark pepper. $25 berry flavour profile and BVWC The Residence These two wines show noticeable tannins. $27 SWEET Barossa Valley the potential of this late Sew & Sew Sashiko WHITES Montepulciano vintage variety. McLaren Vale Nero 2020 HHHH 94pts 2021 HHH1/2 93pts 1 TASTED Plum and blackberry lift Bassham SA Inky minty blackberry 1 AWARDED off the nose with a long, Aglianico 2020 bouquet and a very warming and smooth HHHH 94pts young full-bodied Tahbilk Nagambie feel in the mouth with Nose shouts of palate juicy with fruit Lakes Cane Cut nice weight of dark raspberries, licorice and flavours. $25 Marsanne 2018 fruits. $35 exotic spices with a soft Paulmara Estates (375ml) HHHH 94pts Paulmara Estates dry red palate, some De Nero Barossa Aromas of tinned Brasco’s Barossa floral/dried rose traces Nero D’Avola pineapple and candied Montepulciano and soft tannins. $30 2020 HHH 91pts citrus with a musky 2019 HHH1/2 92pts A pleasant edge and lingering A meaty, cedary and After Five Wine uncomplicated style, freshness of dried savoury bouquet and Co. Barossa Valley very drinkable with bright apricot and orange peel nicely textured spicy Aglianico 2019 floral cherry fruit. $22 flavours. $25.70 plum and black olive HHH 90pts palate. $22 Red fruit driven nose DURIF Handcrafted with a young, rich Limestone Coast and tannic bomb of a 6 TASTED Montepulciano palate. $35 2019 HHH1/2 92pts 3 AWARDED Intense earthy/spicy NEBBIOLO & plum aromas and soft BLENDS Some good examples of boysenberry of a palate this massive variety. that’s nicely integrated 4 TASTED with the oak. $30 1 AWARDED Kalleske Buckboard Barossa Valley After Five Wine Only one wine being Durif 2020 STAR RATINGS  Co. Barossa Valley recommended is HHHH1/2 97pts Montepulciano disappointing, but the A great example of this Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2019 HHH1/2 92pts one recommended is variety. Big and oaky with excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. A purple/red meaty style worth seeking out. fleshy boysenberry and All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry with nicely focused blackberry fruit and soft professionals and are compared in peer characters of beetroot, Grove Estate Hand tannins. “Good bang for classes by three judges. leather, olives and Pressed Hilltops your buck,” suggested CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, spices. $35 Nebbiolo 2020 one judge. $28 a major mail-order business. HHH 90pts CD Cellar door price. Leathery nose with CDO Cellar door only. a tobacco-like lift and SO Sold out. dried floral and tar-like $N/A Price not available at time of printing. flavours. $50  Contact information pg 105. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under and NZ $25 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au 68 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING 43 TASTED 41 AWARDED SEMILLON & BLENDS We say this every year that semillon is the most underrated Hollydene Estate Audrey Wilkinson wine on the wine list. Whether it is served youthful, fresh and Upper Hunter Valley Series Hunter Valley lively, or aged with its amazing lemon and hay complexity there Semillon 2017 Semillon 2019 is something there for everyone. Of all the whites it is the one HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH1/2 96pts that repays cellaring more than any other. An aged semillon with Full developing toasty Subdued citrus aromas fine food is an absolute treat! semillon nose. Smooth with subtle toasty notes and creamy in the mouth and toasty/grassy fruit with honeyed citrus fruit flavours. Beginning flavours. Good acid line. to show some nice Ageing gracefully. $24 development. Years ahead of it! $23 SEMILLON & Midnight’s Promise Midnight’s Promise Allandale Winery UMAMU Estate BLENDS Hunter Semillon Hunter Semillon Hunter Valley Margaret River $20-$30 2014 HHHHH 98pts 2013 HHHHH 98pts Semillon 2021 Semillon Sauvignon Excellent toasty A very inviting wine; HHHH1/2 96pts Blanc 2005 16 TASTED marmalade aged rich and rounded yet still Very youthful wine with HHHH1/2 96pts 16 AWARDED semillon nose. Very focused and elegant. bright lime/lemon fruit Beautifully aged toasty tight acidity holding the Nicely maturing toasty/ with slightly grassy bouquet yet still has Very consistent, high toasty developing palate floral/citrus characters characters and tightly lovely freshness to it quality, class showing nicely together. Drinking and, “Acid is where it focused line of crisp acid. with soft seamlessly excellent varietal fruit well now. $20 should be!” $20 Some flintiness. $27 balanced lemon and and great winemaking rose petal flavours. skills. Some excellent Slightly toasty. $29 quality deals here. Audrey Wilkinson Series Hunter Valley McGuigan Bin Adelaide Hills 9000 Hunter Valley Semillon Sauvignon Semillon 2018 Blanc 2020 HHHHH 98pts HHHH 94pts Lovely toasty Bright grassy fruit development on the fragrances with pretty nose leaps out of the floral notes. Lovely glass with very pleasant palate texture with toasty/lemony/grassy lemon curd-like flavour flavours and great acid profile. $23 backbone. “A joy to Gumpara Frieda’s drink!” $25 Old Vine Barossa Valley Semillon 2021 HHH1/2 92pts A hint of oak on a creamy nose with more oak on the palate. Just needs time. $28 JUDGES Stephen Brown Amy Blackburn Rob Ruediger Winemaker for Cape Winemaker for Brand’s Wine consultant. Jaffa Wines. Former Laira for the past 15 Formerly senior Winemaker and Viticulturist years. Has judged at the production winemaker at for Padthaway Estates Limestone Coast wine Accolade Wines (Hardy Sparkling Winemakers. Has show. Has completed Wine Company) involving vintaged in Champagne and the AWAC course in all varieties and styles. has completed Masters of 2018. Has also vintaged Wine judge at Brisbane Winemaking in Burgundy. in Napa Valley and in the wine show. Judged in South Africa, New Hunter Valley at Mount Zealand, France and Australia. Pleasant winery. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 69

CS EHMAI ML LPOA GN N&E B&L ESNP ADRSK L I N G Hayes Family Wines SEMILLON & McGuigan Shortlist Tempus Two Copper Tempus Two Pewter Fromm Vineyard BLENDS Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Barossa Valley $30-$40 Semillon 2013 Semillon Sauvignon Semillon 2013 Semillon 2021 HHHH1/2 97pts Blanc 2020 HHHHH 98pts HHH1/2 92pts 12 TASTED Well-made, brilliant, pale HHH 90pts A very classy wine with Bright, fresh and lively 11 AWARDED straw wine that’s still a An elegant wine lots of toasty/honeyed with subtle lemony Similar to the previous baby with many years with bright grassy/ development but still varietal characters and class but perhaps with ahead of it. Youthful lemony primary fruit showing amazing crisp acid. Will age greater consistency and grassy/lime fruit and racy characters. $30 retention of primary well. $28 quality. acidity. $30 melon rind-like varietal Briar Ridge Early McGuigan Bin McGuigan Shortlist SEMILLON & fruit characters. $45 Harvest Hunter 9000 Hunter Valley Hunter Valley BLENDS Audrey Wilkinson Valley Semillon Semillon 2019 Semillon 2014 $40-$50 Winemakers 2021 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH 95pts Selection Marsh Lemon fresh bouquet Tight, bright, pale Lightly toasted citrus 10 TASTED Vineyard with a floral lift and straw, fruit focused nose and full-flavoured 9 AWARDED Semillon 2019 flavours of lemons and style with elegant palate still showing HHHH1/2 96pts melons. $25 toastiness and honeyed freshness of fruit with A very strong class. A fresh light varietal with Hayes Family maturity developing with acid highlights. $30 Excellent wines built to lifted grapefruit aromas Wines Schulz Home good supporting acid Krinklewood Broke age for 10 years or more and lengthy flinty lemon/ Vineyard Barossa backbone. $30 Fordwich Semillon with higher acid levels grapefruit-like flavours Valley Semillon 2021 HHHH 94pts retaining fruit vibrancy. with a hint of toasty 2021 HHH 91pts Allandale Winery Lean lemony/grassy “These are more tart development. $40 Big slightly developed Hunter Valley fruit fragrances and and tight and beautifully Pooles Rock Single fruit tingle nose and Semillon 2017 lovely citrus fruit on the made,” said one judge. Vineyard Hunter rich honeyed citrus HHHH1/2 97pts nicely textured palate Valley Semillon 2017 palate. $28 “Intoxicating nose,” with great acid, nice Pooles Rock HHHH1/2 96pts Hollydene Estate rich with excellent phenolics. $32 Premiere Hunter Brilliant lemon/lime Upper Hunter Valley toasty marmalade Tempus Two Copper Valley Semillon bouquet with a hint Semillon 2016 development. Full Hunter Valley 2018 HHHHH 98pts of toast and nice acid/ HHH 91pts developing toasty Semillon 2020 “Subdued on the nose phenolic palate texture Full flavoured wine with flavours supported by HHHH 94pts but a joy in the mouth,” with citrus-based flavours lovely, aged toasty/ great acid line. Ageing Tight and bright grassy according to one judge. and toasty richness. lemon fruit characters. well. $35 varietal showing Light toasty/honeydew/ Ageing well. $45 Easy drinking. $27 McGuigan Bin richness and weight. lemon bouquet and Saddler’s Creek Midnight’s Promise 9000 Hunter Valley “Loved how the wine powerful weighty citrus Wines Ryans Hunter Semillon Semillon 2014 felt in the mouth.” $30 driven palate. $40 Reserve Sylvia 2015 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 97pts Happs Ellen Jean Hunter Valley Still very primary, tightly A long, generous, Margaret River Tempus Two Pewter Semillon 2021 focused and ageing “giving wine”. Toasty Semillon 2019 Hunter Valley HHHH 95pts gracefully. $20 fruit fragrances and HHH1/2 93pts Semillon 2015 A wine with incredible Gartelmann pure bright lemon curd- Bright tight and focused HHHHH 98pts length, freshness and Benjamin Hunter like palate developing and still very primary Rich toasty honeyed varietal purity. Grassy Valley Semillon delicate toastiness. Tight with mouth-filling aromas with typical lemon brightness to 2021 HHH 90pts finish. $30 flavours and good line of kero aged notes and both the nose and Subtle musky/ acid. $30 floral hints. An excellent palate. $40 honeysuckle fragrances McGuigan Shortlist lemony/honeydew Krinklewood and light bodied, slightly Hunter Valley palate with slight Basket Press Broke sweet/sour, palate. $27 Semillon 2018 toastiness and great acid Fordwich Semillon Paulett Wines HHH1/2 93pts persistence. $45 2021 HHHH 94pts Watervale Clare Lean, elegant, Beautifully textured wine Valley Semillon conservative style with Tempus Two Pewter with crisp pear/lemon/ 2020 HHH 90pts grassy/lemon varietal Hunter Valley floral fruit and attractive A well-made varietal; fruit, some toastiness Semillon 2014 phenolics. Should age musky floral fruit and high acid. $30 HHHHH 98pts well. $42 and slight mid-palate Saddler’s Creek Excellent honeyed/ Audrey Wilkinson sweetness. $25 Wines Saddlers toasty fragrances The Ridge Hunter Hunter Valley explode out of the glass. Valley Semillon Semillon 2021 Creamy in the mouth 2019 HHHH 94pts HHH 90pts with lemon curd-like Flinty citrusy style with Lifted fruit tingle of a fruit, some nuttiness and tight line of acid and nose and palate in the great acid line. Ageing hints of honeyed aged tropical spectrum with gracefully. $45 characters starting to floral notes. $30 develop. $45 70 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

varietal tasting SEMILLON & RidgeView RidgeView STAR RATINGS  BLENDS Generations Reserve Generations Reserve $50+ Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Semillon 2013 Semillon 2009 excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 5 TASTED HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH1/2 96pts All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry 5 AWARDED Toasty development Incredibly complex professionals and are compared in peer obvious on the complex wine yet still fresh with classes by three judges. Again, superb varietal nose with lovely bottle great fruit concentration CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, wines built for the long development giving layered with crème a major mail-order business. term. Go out, grab one lengthy buttery/toasty brulee and honeyed CD Cellar door price. or two and savour them! flavours. Fresh line of characters. Good level of CDO Cellar door only. acid. $50 acid. $80 SO Sold out. Tempus Two Uno RidgeView Tempus Two Uno $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Hunter Valley Generations Reserve Hunter Valley  Contact information pg 105. Semillon 2014 Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 HHHHH 98pts Semillon 2011 HHHH1/2 96pts RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Beautifully toasty/ HHHH1/2 97pts Nicely focused lemon/ BEST VALUE for $20 & under honeysuckle Buttery toasty bouquet; lime varietal fruit with and NZ $25 & under. development on the a tad pungent and a slight funkiness and For a complete list of what we tasted nose mixing with melon mélange of flavours lovely balance between please refer to www.winestate.com.au and orange rind-like fruit. reminiscent of dried the acid and phenolic Light bodied palate has apricot, preserved lemon structure. Excellent lemon/lime primary fruit and candied apples. A cellaring potential. $75 flavours. $75 classic. $65 Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. Connect on social with Winestate www.facebook.com/Winestate- Magazine twitter.com/winestateed www.instagram.com/winestate/ www.winestate.com.au September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 71

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN LIMESTONE COAST A PERFECT PUB since. John Rymill managed his family’s most spectacular natural wonders. grazing business, and subsequently the In the heart of Mount Gambier, visitors THE Royal Oak Hotel in Penola is a huge wine business, taking on the Royal Oak favourite with both local and visiting Hotel in 2018 with his partner Mary Harvey. can discover the aptly named Blue Lake. winemakers. Other local attractions include the His strong links with the region’s farming That is no surprise, as the bloke behind and viticultural families underpins his underground oasis, Umpherston Sinkhole, the bar might just be a former winemaker desire to share the local produce of the snorkelling or dive the crystal-clear waters himself: publican John Rymill. region with locals and visitors and he works of the Kilsby Sinkhole or Piccaninnie Ponds with Amblemead Produce and Beachport or snuggling up glamping under a blanket Since its establishment in 1848, the Berkshire for heritage-breed pork, Humpy full of stars. The main attraction, however, Royal Oak has been an integral hub of the Creek Hogs & Hens for free-range chicken is over 40 cellar doors steeped in history Coonawarra region. It promotes itself as “a and The Splendid Egg for free-range eggs. and the chance to taste the local flavours place to catch up with friends, dine, have a like Mayura Station premium boutique beef. yarn with a local or simply rest after a long Daily specials can be found on the journey with a cold beer or wine”. ‘From the Kitchen Pass’ blackboard by the MUCH MORE THAN YOUR kitchen, and Sunday night’s ‘Feed me’ deal LOCAL CAFE John Rymill’s family have farmed around allows guests to opt for a five-course meal Penola since John Riddoch arrived in focusing on the produce of the day. BOMPAS Beachport is a Limestone Coast 1861. Riddoch founded the Coonawarra secret: a café serving barista-quality coffee, wine region in the Royal Oak Hotel in The wine list showcases wine from the light meals and locally sourced desserts, 1890, and his descendants have been region; Coonawarra, in particular, but also but also a restaurant, fully licensed bar and involved in farming and viticulture ever wines from Wrattonbully, Mt Benson, the function venue. Limestone Coast, Henty and Western Victoria. Bompas says it uses the “freshest local Rymill says there is also a selection of produce to tempt and excite” and it is open gin, beers, and ciders, “which have been for lunch and dinner seven days a week, as created by our friends and in the region”. well as for breakfasts at weekends. Bompas also offers affordable accommodation with See www.royaloakpenola.pub/ upgraded rooms coming soon. Check out www.bompas.com.au/ NATURALLY WONDERFUL OUT OF THE ORDINARY IN addition to its dozens of famous wine producers like Wynns Coonawarra Estate LOOKING for a quite different winery and Bowen Estate, the Limestone Coast experience? Head for Bellwether Wines, is also home to some of South Australia’s which lies just seven kilometres north of the Coonawarra township. Based in the 1868 Glen Roy Shearing Shed, this beautiful space combines history, humour and creativity with Sue Bell’s outstandingly idiosyncratic wines. A boutique winery with the cellar door 72 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

travelbriefs and community kitchen in the heart of the cabernet breakfast, take a winery tour, a winemakers’ dinner at Pipers of Penola. winery, Bellwether also offers the chance indulge in a chocolate and wine tasting, to spend the night glamping in a Bell tent or dine with a winemaker. See https://coonawarra.org/event/ or camping with your own gear. Highlights include wine, food and music coonawarra-cabernet-celebrations-2021/. Visitors are invited to indulge in a at Leconfield, pizza and tunes at Raidis degustation meal served by the chef and Estate, tours and tastings at DiGiorgio The team from Coonawarra Experiences the winemaker - limited to no more than Family Wines, cooking with Cindy Cross 10 people. at Parker Coonawarra Estate, breakfast at can arrange transport for groups without Majella, a degustation dinner at Katnook in There is an on-site produce garden and The Stables, a paella fiesta at Majella and a designated driver. Call 1800 861 190 for friendly farm animals, and the wines are all handmade in a historic stone building. enquiries or to book ahead. Bellwether Wines is at 14183 Riddoch Opposite page top left: Exterior of The Royal Oak Pub. Highway, Coonawarra SA 5277. See www. Opposite page bottom left: John Rymill of The Royal bellwetherwines.com.au. Oak Pub, Penola. Opposite page top right: Exterior of Wynns Coonawarra Estate. Top left: Interior of Bellwether camping tent. Middle: Sue Bell of Bellwether Wines. Bottom right: Coonawarra Vines. Top right: Coonawarra Reds. CELEBRATING CABERNET ONE of the most popular annual events in Coonawarra is the Coonawarra Cabernet Celebrations; acknowledged as one of South Australia’s best regional wine- based events. The program comprises over 60 food and wine experiences designed to showcase and celebrate the Coonawarra wine region’s signature red wine: cabernet sauvignon. Visitors can enjoy the spring-time celebrations across the month of October, with ever y week/weekend featuring themed events. Guests can try their hand at blending their own wine, enjoy a sparkling September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 73

89 TASTED 84 AWARDED LIMESTONE COAST & SURROUNDS This judging shows that there is more to the Limestone Coast Koonara Angel’s The Inventor than just fabulous cabernet based wines. Here we saw some Footprint Mount Limestone Coast great examples of white varietals including chardonnay, pinot Gambier Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc gris, riesling and surprisingly sauvignon blanc in the less assertive Blanc 2021 2021 HHHH 94pts Aussie style, along with some great other reds, mainly merlot, HHHH1/2 96pts “A great summer drink!” but one notable lagrein. But for traditionalists the cabernet wines Beautifully focused Fresh passionfruit again excelled. wine with pungent fragrances and a passionfruit bouquet flavoursome balance of SPARKLING Maison Blue Syn Coonawarra and very fresh, tight but citrus and passionfruit Limestone Coast Sparkling Rosé NV balanced, palate with flavours. $15 5 TASTED Sparkling Cabernet HHH1/2 92pts flavours in the greener 5 AWARDED Sauvignon 2016 Very savoury meaty spectrum. Very pleasant! Raidis Estate The HHH1/2 93pts aromas with floral notes $20 Kelpie Coonawarra A solid consistent class Rich dark and intense and more savouriness Reschke Sauvignon Blanc of sparklings offering with a minty dark berry on the palate with plenty Bull Trader 2021 HHHH 94pts value for money. bouquet and bright of acid. $21 Coonawarra A well-made wine brambly fruit flavours. Sauvignon Blanc – clean, bright and Hoggies Coonawarra Good tannins. $33 SAUVIGNON 2021 HHHH1/2 refreshing with a long Sparkling Syn Coonawarra BLANC 96pts acid driven finish. Shows Chardonnay Sparkling A generous riper style the versatility of the Pinot Noir NV Chardonnay 8 TASTED showing great varietal region. $22 HHHH 95pts Pinot Noir NV 7 AWARDED persistence. Smells Elegant toasty honeyed HHH1/2 92pts buttery and pungent Reschke R-Series nose with light fruit Fresh, simple and Great results for Aussie with attractive fresh and Limestone Coast nuances and a soft, youthful citrussy nose style sauvignon blancs balanced varietal fruit Sauvignon Blanc developing, full flavoured with a very floral palate with good balance flavours. $20 2021 HHH1/2 93pts palate with crisp line of showing delicate hints of acid and varietal A beautifully complex acid. $15 of pears and apples. $21 flavours. and layered wine with attractive passionfruit Syn Rouge Wangolina pungency and a good Coonawarra Limestone Coast line of acid. $16 Sparkling Shiraz Sauvignon Blanc NV HHHH 95pts 2021 HHHHH 98pts Schoolhouse Peppery plum and A grassy nose layered Headmaster blackberry fragrances with green capsicum-like Coonawarra with minty notes. Bright varietal fruit characters Sauvignon Blanc youthful palate dense and subtle lifted 2020 HHH1/2 92pts with ripe sweet fruit passionfruit flavours. A well-made flavours. $21 Good acid length. “Very passionfruit driven drinkable,” declared one varietal just beginning judge. $20 to show some ageing characters. $18 PINOT GRIS 8 TASTED 7 AWARDED Another consistent line-up from a long cool vintage. 74 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

regional tasting Taylors Wines RIESLING Raidis Estate CHARDONNAY Hotelier The Kid Coonawarra Wrattonbully 6 TASTED Riesling 2021 7 TASTED Pinot Gris 2020 5 AWARDED HHHH1/2 96pts 6 AWARDED HHHH1/2 96pts Musky lemon varietal A richly layered A good flight with older nose with a jasmine- Very solid class with wine showing great vintages showing how like floral lift and a Padthaway the jewel persistence of pear, well the variety can age. crisp and lively palate; in the crown. “These peach and floral varietal lots of citrus flavours wines generally have derived characters. Has developing nice peachy/stonefruit hints of honeysuckle complexity. $22 characters rather balanced by crisp acid. than more the fruity/ $18 pineapple styles of the south,” said one judge. Schoolhouse One very nice example Headmaster from Mt Gambier. Limestone Coast The Inventor Pinot Gris 2021 Peter Thompson Limestone Coast HHH1/2 92pts Wines Silex Mt Pinot Gris 2021 A tight, fine and elegant Gambier Riesling HHHH1/2 96pts style with freshness of 2018 HHHHH 98pts “A cracker of a wine!” lemons and pears and a A nicely ageing wine The nose is reminiscent good acid finish. “Very with toasty lemon/lime of grapefruit with hints classy!” $18 and pear-like varietal of ginger. Lovely palate Reschke Bull Trader characters with a lift of texture with bright and Limestone Coast rose petals, laced with fresh citrus and pear- Pinot Gris 2021 a crisp line of acidity driven flavours. $15 HHH 91pts and finishing nice and Light and refreshing clean. $25 and all strawberries Hoggies Coonawarra and white flowers with Riesling 2019 delicate honey notes. HHHH1/2 97pts $20 Well-structured wine with an excellent Koonara Lucy & Raidis Estate toasty bouquet lifted Reschke R-Series Peter Thompson Alice Coonawarra Cheeky Goat with citrus and rose Limestone Coast Wines Silex Pinot Gris 2021 Coonawarra petals and has a Riesling 2021 Mt Gambier HHHH1/2 96pts Pinot Gris 2021 bright and lively citrus HHHH 95pts Chardonnay 2018 A pretty, slightly drier, HHH 91pts driven palate with nice “Super pretty – super HHHH 95pts style of pinot gris Lean and green; soft phenolic backbone. lifted wine.” Generous An oak driven style displaying a bright and complex with great $15 fruit weight and that’s starting to musky pear bouquet and overall balance. $26 powerful musk stick-like show its age with the some powerful spicy Reschke R-Series characters with tight primary fruit moving to pear flavours with a tight Limestone Coast acidity. $16 secondary characters. line of acidity. $23 Pinot Gris 2021 Majella Coonawarra Nice wine. $25 HHH 90pts Riesling 2020 Uncomplicated easy HHH 91pts drinking wine fresh Interesting toasty, toffee with crisp varietal fruit and burnt fig-like aromas characters. $16 and flavours. $17 JUDGES Stephen Brown Amy Blackburn Rob Ruediger Winemaker for Cape Winemaker for Brand’s Wine consultant. Jaffa Wines. Former Laira for the past 15 Formerly senior Winemaker and Viticulturist years. Has judged at the production winemaker for Padthaway Estates Limestone Coast wine at Accolade Wines Sparkling Winemakers. Has show. Has completed the (Hardy Wine Company) vintaged in Champagne and AWAC course in 2018. involving all varieties has completed Masters of Has also vintaged in Napa and styles. Wine judge Winemaking in Burgundy. Valley and in the Hunter at Brisbane wine show. Judged in South Africa, Valley at Mount Pleasant New Zealand, France and winery. Australia. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 75

LIMESTONE COAST & SURROUNDS Jip Jip Rocks CABERNET RedHeads CABERNET Padthaway BLENDS The Red Sedan SAUVIGNON Chardonnay 2020 South Australia HHHH 95pts 6 TASTED Cabernet Shiraz 28 TASTED An attractive leaner 6 AWARDED 2020 HHHH 95pts 27 AWARDED style with interesting Intense juicy minty/leafy fig-like fragrances A solid class showing varietal fruit characters A very strong class as and a flavoursome the value of cabernet with fine, slightly grippy, to be expected from complexity of tropical blends including the tannins. Attractive this premium cabernet and stonefruit. $23 traditional Bordeaux aromas and great flavour region of Australia. Taylors Wines blend and the Aussie length. $20 “These have full bodied One Giant Leap style that includes Leconfield structure with lovely Padthaway Clare shiraz. Coonawarra pungent cassis, leaf and Valley Chardonnay Coonawarra mint characters,” said 2020 HHHH 94pts Cabernets 2019 one judge. “There are Smells quite tropical HHH1/2 92pts choc mint-like overtones with slight toasty and Nice licorice nuances with Ribena edges.” floral notes. Creamy, to the slightly pungent honeyed palate with black fruits with leafy/ tropical and stonefruit minty complexity. Good flavours. $20 tannin structure. $32 RedHeads Harmonie The Inventor The Malleea By Banks Thargo Schoolhouse Rox Coonawarra Coonawarra Merlot Majella Coonawarra Racecourse Red Headmaster Chardonnay 2020 2019 HHHHH 98pts Cabernet Blend 2015 Coonawarra Coonawarra HHHH 94pts “A joy of a wine.” HHHHH 98pts Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Well-structured, upfront, Sweet blackberry An intense and Merlot 2018 2019 HHHHH 98pts ripe varietal fruit style and blackcurrant fruit beautifully structured HHH1/2 92pts Pungent cassis bouquet with toasty notes fragrances and lovely style that shows the A big wine with lovely with licorice-like nuances and quite high acidity dark juicy fruit flavours great ageing ability blackcurrant pastille- and a full flavoured balancing the mid-palate on the plush rich palate. of wines from this like fruit characters and palate tasting like sweetness. $25 Will be even better with region. Very attractive chalky tannins. Great blackcurrant, eucalypt some more age! $15 sweet leafy cassis fruit with steak! $23 and licorice with great Farmers Leap Wangolina seamlessly integrated Reschke Bull length of smooth fine Padthaway Limestone Coast with oak. $80 Trader Coonawarra tannins. $18 Chardonnay 2019 Lagrein 2019 The Musician By Cabernet Merlot HHH1/2 92pts HHHHH 98pts Majella Coonawarra 2019 HHH 91pts A clean, bright and well- Very easy drinking. Cabernet Blend 2018 Slightly developed, deep made wine showing a “This wine could be HHHH1/2 97pts crimson, wine with good understanding of dangerous!” joked one An elegant interpretation plenty of dark peppery/ the varietal fruit. Nice judge. Very intense of a cabernet blend. mint fruit. $20 phenolics. $25 blue fruits, some lovely A classic that will spiciness, lots of fine age beautifully. Has Morambro Creek tannins and a long overtly minty/spicy dark Padthaway lingering finish. $28 fruits and great tannin Chardonnay 2020 Majella Coonawarra structure. $19 HHH 91pts Merlot 2018 A toasty honeyed HHHH1/2 97pts bouquet with nice oak A nose of blackberries and tropical fruit flavour and blackcurrants with combination. $35 nice earthiness to it. Firm tannic palate with OTHER RED a flavour combination VARIETALS & of plums and cherries. BLENDS Drinking well now. $30 Leconfield 4 TASTED Coonawarra 4 AWARDED Coonawarra Merlot 2019 HHH 91pts A small but great class Bright crimson, medium with some high-class bodied style softly merlots and one flavoured and with tight excellent Lagrein worth tannins. $28 seeking out. 76 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

regional tasting The Composer By Reschke Bull Reschke Empyrean Banks Thargo Reschke Empyrean Majella Coonawarra Trader Coonawarra Coonawarra Coonawarra Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 HHHHH 98pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts 1998 HHHHH 98pts 2016 2010 HHHH1/2 97pts A plush, juicy and A super dark and Deep garnet in colour HHHH1/2 97pts An elegant, well made, mouthwatering cabernet chocolaty varietal with almost treacle- Still amazingly youthful wine that is ageing very with great persistence offering plenty of like aromas and a with bright blackberry gracefully. The nose and of some lovely, lifted cellaring potential. very mature palate and licorice varietal palate, “Has memories blackberry fruit laced Powerful spicy fruit with a beautifully soft characters, some cherry/ of plums and shadows with licorice and mint aromas and elegant secondary flavour profile chocolate notes well of cherries,” according to and soft and fresh lively mouth filling cassis of soy and licorice. Still integrated with the oak one judge. Lovely! $150 tannins. $25 flavours with a drying quite lovely! $150 and tannins. $28 Rymill Coonawarra finish. $20 The Yearling Majella Coonawarra Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 HHHHH 98pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts A bright crimson Dark, dense and wine with gorgeous brooding wine with blackcurrant fruit elegant blackberry/ pastille-like varietal fruit licorice fruit displaying characters; maturing leafy minty nuances and beautifully with lovely great palate structure velvety smooth tannin supported by a firm structure. $35 tannin backbone. $15 Charnwood Estate in Mudgee is a small player kicking big goals with its Shiraz and Merlot. As small and boutique as wineries come, Charnwood demanded everyone’s attention when its 2009 Charlie’s Row Merlot won against some higher profile wineries in the 2011 Winewise Championship. Charnwood Estate is located in the Mudgee wine region of NSW; located on a historic property just 5 minutes from the centre of Mudgee and nestled at the foot of the hills in the delightful Cudgegong Valley. At Charnwood, we specialise in red wines and are particularly proud of our Shiraz which keeps going from strength to strength. For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee. ph: 0417 451 102 email: [email protected] www.charnwoodestate.com.au September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 77

LIMESTONE COAST & SURROUNDS Mt. Monster Leconfield Limestone Coast Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon HHHH1/2 96pts 2018 HHHH 94pts A deep red wine with A well-made wine with fresh leafy cassis maturing varietal fruit fragrances and a classic and some older oak cabernet palate with on the nose and an great length of spicy uncomplicated juicy fruit cassis flavours and lively palate. $36 feathery tannins. $18 Morambro Creek Leconfield Schoolhouse Reschke R-Series Padthaway Cabernet Coonawarra Single Vineyard Limestone Coast Sauvignon 2019 Coonawarra Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon HHHH1/2 97pts Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHH 95pts Another elegant style 2019 2018 A riper, slightly meaty, with cherries, cassis, HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH1/2 96pts style of cabernet with dried herbs and licorice A very attractive Excellent cassis fruit nicely maturing juicy lifting off the nose and combination of cassis nose with a menthol-like cassis fruit and some filling the dense juicy fruit and sweet vanillin element and a classic fine tannins in support. palate with loads of oak obvious on both the cabernet palate with $16 flavour. Soft tannin nose and the palate with pure varietal fruit and finish. $35 nice, lifted spiciness and fine powdery tannins. Olivia Coonawarra Maison Blue Jip Jip Rocks a soft tannin finish. $36 One for the cellar! $45 Cabernet 2016 Limestone Coast Padthaway Cabernet Schoolhouse Reschke Empyrean HHHH 95pts Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2019 Single Vineyard Coonawarra A pleasant gamey and 2016 HHHH 94pts HHHH1/2 96pts Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon dark cherry bouquet with Big mature savoury/ Deep crimson colour, Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 a nicely maturing palate earthy style with strong varietal aromas 2019 HHHH1/2 96pts with soft fruit flavours powerful cassis fruit and and soft cassis fruit HHHH1/2 96pts Mature red hues with and firm tannins. $25 leathery undertones and flavours with mouth A pretty cabernet; an aged leafy cabernet Briar Ridge Big Bully a soft tannin finish. $33 coating tannins and quite medium bodied with bouquet and a well- Limited Release Mr Riggs Outpost an acidic finish. Has a excellent length of dark aged palate but it is still Wrattonbully Coonawarra certain elegance! $23 cherry-like varietal fruit showing a freshness Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet 2019 characters. Good use and intensity of primary 2019 HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 92pts of oak and fine chalky fruit flavours. $150 Lifted menthol nose Aromas of black cherries tannins. $45 with subtle oak notes and cassis with slightly and very attractive developed ripe fruit combination of cassis flavours and silky soft and oak flavours with tannins. $25 firm tannins. $40 The Inventor Penley Estate Coonawarra Tolmer Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHH 94pts 2019 HHH 91pts A leaner style with An uncomplicated and chocolaty/mocha aromas very drinkable cabernet and flavours of slightly with bright fruit and soft green fruit and oak and tannins. $30 a powerful acid finish. $15 78 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

regional tasting Farmers Leap The Inventor Taylors Wines Jip Jip Rocks Farmers Leap Padthaway Cabernet Coonawarra Reserve Parcel Padthaway Shiraz Padthaway Shiraz Sauvignon 2018 Shiraz 2019 Limestone Coast 2019 HHHH 94pts 2018 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 97pts Clare Valley Slightly mature peppery Powerful oak characters A big ripe wine with Deep crimson wine Shiraz 2019 blackberry fragrances. sitting on top of some blackberry-like fruit, with attractive chocolaty HHHH1/2 97pts Powerful sweet ripe fruit pretty varietal fruit obvious oak and a tannic aromas laced with Excellent aromatic flavours with a strong with coffee/mocha finish. $25 berries and licorice and combination of oak and tannin structure to the elements. $25 has a powerful tannin plum-like fruit. The-full palate. $23 Reschke Bull Trader Penley Estate structure to the palate bodied palate is rich with Jip Jip Rocks Coonawarra Shiraz Steyning with peppery black fruit ripe dark fruit flavours and Padthaway Shiraz 2020 HHH 91pts Coonawarra flavours. $15 has powerful balancing Cabernet 2019 Bright tight and nicely Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Monster tannins. $25 HHHH 94pts focused wine. Lovely, 2018 HHH 91pts Limestone Coast Wangolina Spectrum A sweet rich lifted fruit/oak aromas A lighter elegant style Shiraz 2019 Mount Benson combination of and flavours. $20 with lovely dark fruit HHHH1/2 97pts Syrah 2018 blackberry and chocolate Schoolhouse characters and lots of Nice cool climate style HHHH1/2 97pts to the nose and giving Single Vineyard tannins. $75 with spicy boysenberry A big bold and quite lovely flavour intensity to Coonawarra Shiraz bouquet showing oaky style but has the the palate. $23 2018 HHH 91pts Raidis Estate leathery undertones and density and intensity of Olivia Coonawarra Dark lifted cherry fruit Billy Coonawarra plush dark fruit flavours pretty earthy dark berry Shiraz 2016 with a medicinal edge Cabernet Sauvignon with lovely spiciness and and licorice-like fruit to HHHH 94pts and soft mocha oak 2018 HHH 90pts fine but grippy tannins. support it. A wine for Treacle-like characters characters. $45 A lean, elegant and $18 ageing. $50 to the nose with cola Penley Estate refreshing style filled Majella Coonawarra notes and a fresh and Hyland Coonawarra with cassis fruit and Shiraz 2016 energetic palate, rich Shiraz 2019 subtle tannins. $35 HHHH1/2 97pts with licorice and jubey HHH 90pts A dense crimson wine fruit flavours. $25 Powerful pungent dark Maison Blue that, according to one Reschke R-Series fruit characters, obvious Coonawarra judge, “Shows maturity Limestone Coast oak and greenish Cabernet Sauvignon and wisdom!” Has rich Shiraz 2020 tannins. $30 2017 HHH 90pts ripe dark fruit characters, HHHH 94pts Morambro Creek Lean and leafy fruit lots of oak and velvety Pungent jubey Padthaway Shiraz aromas and flavours tannins. $35 blackberry bouquet 2018 HHH 90pts with nice secondary with savoury elements An elegant style with savoury elements Schoolhouse and straightforward slightly maturing fruit, developing. $49 Headmaster boysenberry flavours some spiciness and Coonawarra Shiraz with licorice nuances. velvety soft tannins. $35 SHIRAZ & 2019 HHHH 95pts $16 Farmers Leap BLENDS Intensely red licorice/ Schoolhouse The Brave raspberry-like nose and Single Vineyard Padthaway Shiraz 17 TASTED very pleasant peppery Coonawarra Shiraz 2018 HHH 90pts 17 AWARDED fruit flavours on the 2019 HHH1/2 92pts A big, mature and full bright and lively palate. Still fresh and very flavoured shiraz with a Very consistent solid $18 drinkable with bright cola edge to the fruit and class with all the South- plush red berry fruits, strong oak. $40 East regions involved. hints of violets and “These wines show chocolaty oak. $45 elegant extraction producing approachable styles for consumer attraction and early drinking,” said one judge. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 79

MICHAEL COOPER RECENT RELEASES Distinctive wines, full of personality, were highlights of the latest The Elder  releases from New Zealand. Montepulciano is widely planted across Martinborough central Italy, but Obsidian shows it can yield exciting red wine on Pinot Noir 2018 Allan Scott Waiheke Island, in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf. And do winemakers HHHHH 98pts Marlborough really need to add sulphur-dioxide as a preservative? See the review This very finely Sauvignon Blanc of Loveblock Tee Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 – they use perfumed red was 2021 HHHH 95pts green tea. estate-grown at Te Muna Offering fine value, this and French oak-aged. punchy young wine was Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available Ruby hued, it is an grown in the Wairau in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). intensely varietal wine, Valley. Medium-bodied, mouthfilling, sweet- it has vibrant, tropical fruited and supple, fruit and herbaceous with cherry, plum and flavours, showing spice flavours, complex, good intensity, crisp, savoury and supple. $65 appetising acidity and a dry finish. $15 (A, ½ UK, US)  The Elder Loveblock Central Martinborough Otago Pinot Noir Pinot Gris 2020 HHHH 95pts 2020 This graceful, vibrantly HHHH1/2 97pts fruity and youthful red Estate-grown and was mostly estate- hand-harvested at grown at Bendigo. Te Muna, this is a Deep ruby, with a powerful, full-bodied fragrant, fresh, slightly style of pinot gris, spicy bouquet, it is partly barrel-fermented. mouthfilling and supple, Pale gold, it has fresh, with strong cherry, plum generous, well-ripened, and spice flavours, a peachy flavours, gently subtle seasoning of oak, seasoned with oak, lively acidity and gentle good complexity, tannins. Best drinking balanced acidity and 2023+. $32 (UK, US) a fully dry finish. Best drinking 2022+. $45 Folding Hill Bendigo Obsidian Reserve Obsidian Reserve Obsidian Reserve Central Otago Waiheke Island Waiheke Island Waiheke Island Pinot Noir 2017 Chardonnay Montepulciano The Mayor HHHHH 98pts 2019 HHHHH 98pts 2019 HHHHH 98pts 2019 HHHH1/2 96pts Still youthful, this deep This rich, youthful wine This is a lovely young This deeply coloured, ruby red was hand- has a fragrant, complex red. Deeply coloured, youthful red is based picked at Bendigo, bouquet. Bright, light it is fragrant, weighty on cabernet franc, matured for 10 months lemon/green, it is full- and fleshy, with blended with smaller in French oak casks bodied, with vibrant, concentrated red berry, amounts of petit verdot (25% new), and bottled deep stone-fruit flavours, plum and spice flavours, and malbec. It has a unfined and unfiltered. gently seasoned with nutty and savoury notes fragrant, fresh, slightly Mouthfilling, it has fresh toasty oak, a slightly adding complexity, and herbal bouquet, leading acidity and dense, well- creamy texture and ripe, supple tannins. into a sturdy wine with ripened cherry, plum and a lasting finish. Best Already delicious, it’s vibrant berry, plum and spice flavours. Complex drinking 2023+. $49 well worth cellaring to spice flavours, showing and savoury, it’s well 2024+. $68 good concentration, and worth cellaring. $45 supple tannins. Best drinking 2023+. $62 80 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

recent releases Loveblock Tee Main Divide  STAR RATINGS  Marlborough Pinot Noir 2019 Sauvignon Blanc HHHH 94pts Allan Scott Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2020 HHHH 95pts This good value red Marlborough excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. This highly distinctive was grown at Waipara, Pinot Gris 2021 All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry wine uses “green tea in North Canterbury, HHH 91pts professionals and are compared in peer as a natural antioxidant and matured for 18 Enjoyable young, this classes by three judges. instead of sulphur”. months in French oak freshly scented wine is CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Certified organic, it was barrels. Ruby hued, it is medium to full-bodied, a major mail-order business. estate-grown in the mouthfilling and supple, with good depth of CD Cellar door price. lower Awatere Valley with generous cherry, vibrant pear, peach CDO Cellar door only. and a third of the blend plum, spice and nut and lychee flavours, SO Sold out. was barrel-fermented. flavours, fresh acidity moderate acidity and a $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Pale gold, it is fresh and and a smooth, very smooth, off-dry finish.  Contact information pg 105. full-bodied, with strong, harmonious finish. Drink $15 (A, UK) vigorous, tropical fruit now or cellar. $25 (A) RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). flavours, a touch of BEST VALUE for $20 & under tannin, crisp acidity and ½ Allan Scott and NZ $25 & under. lots of youthful drive. Marlborough Rosé For a complete list of what we tasted From far outside the Haha VBBAEULSYUTSE 2021 HHH 90pts please refer to www.winestate.com.au mainstream, it’s worth Marlborough Bright pink, this is a discovering. $27 (UK) Pinot Noir very easy-drinking rosé, medium-bodied, 2020 HHH1/2 93pts with vibrant peach, red Still unfolding, this berry and strawberry is a ruby-hued, full- flavours, a gentle splash bodied red, with fresh, of sweetness, balanced strong, plum and acidity and a smooth spice flavours, slightly finish. It’s ready to roll. earthy notes, a touch $15 (A, UK, US) of complexity and a fairly firm finish. Best drinking mid-2022+. $25 SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 81

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN SOUTH ISLAND (NELSON & CANTERBURY) LUXURY AT TE KOI LODGE BEST BUDGET DEALS tasting straight from the barrel at Gravity, lunch at one of the vineyard restaurants, TE KOI The Lodge at Bronte is one of the THE global Accor hotel group has more a walk through the vines at Flaxmore or Nelson Tasman region’s best addresses than 30 properties in New Zealand with a bike ride through the vineyards. - located approximately halfway between rates starting from as low as $81 per Nelson city and Abel Tasman National night with flexible cancellations. Among Nelson Tasman is the only region in New Park. It is 25 minutes’ drive to Nelson its offerings in Christchurch are the ibis Zealand to grow commercial hops, so Airport and 30 minutes to Nelson City. Christchurch from $93 per night; or the experiencing the range of craft breweries modern Novotel Christchurch Cathedral along the Craft Beer Trail is a “must do”. Set on the edge of the Waimea Estuary, Square from $156 per night. Have a pint at a craft beer free house in this secluded lodge features four suites Nelson City or the Moutere Inn, or visit and villas set in picturesque gardens, The longer guests stay, the more they the Hop & Beer Museum at Founders each with delightful water views. Rates save. Stay two or three nights and Accor Heritage Park. start from $490 inclusive. will sweeten the deal with up to 10% off; stay for four or more nights and receive up The Moutere Inn boasts it is New The lodge is set among mature New to 20% off; or book a seven-night stay and Zealand’s oldest pub in its original Zealand native trees, allowing for save up to 25%. building. The 13 rotating taps on offer complete privacy. Guests can enjoy a here are a great opportunity to taste a heated swimming pool, tennis court, To book visit all.accor.com. delicious local brew. petanque and massage facilities. GET ON THE NELSON WINE Spirit lovers can enjoy a tasting at the All accommodations feature a private TRAIL Dancing Sands cellar door or savour a patio offering sea views and each villa delicious cocktail in the sunny courtyard includes a refrigerator and a 42-inch VISITORS to the Nelson Tasman region at Kiwi Spirit Distillery, New Zealand’s flat-screen TV with satellite channels. All not only have several wineries to visit, home of tequila. have en-suite bathroom with a bathtub but they can also enjoy a craft beer trail or spa bath. Think complimentary or visit a local distillery. Nelson’s main dining precincts include drinks and chocolates, and locally Upper Trafalgar Street, Hardy Street, commissioned art in every room. You can pick up a wine map from Church Street, New Street or the banks your nearest i-SITE and spend the day of the Maitai River. With its own heli-pad Te Koi Lodge exploring the Nelson Wine Trail at your also provides access to the many own pace or join a guided tour so you Options include Mexican restaurants internationally renowned attractions can taste as much as you like. Options down quirky side streets, little Indian in the Nelson region. See www. include various cellar doors across the eateries, Thai dining, Japanese bistros, tekoithelodge.com Waimea Plains and Moutere Hills, wine Argentinian food carts and Asian fusion experiences. Head to the popular weekend markets in Nelson, Motueka or Takaka, the Wednesday Farmer’s Market on Kirby Lane or the Thursday Twilight Market at Isel Park over summer. Locals say this is the perfect place to discover talented makers and build a hamper of artisan goodies and handcrafted products. BE YOUR OWN LORD OF THE MANOR OTAHUNA Lodge, just a 25-minute drive from Christchurch International Airport, is a historic country mansion known for its estate-grown cuisine and outstanding cellar. A new offering from Otahuna coincided with the introduction of the Trans-Tasman bubble: the “Lord of the Manor” package. 82 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

travelbriefs This is ideal for a group of friends EXPERIENCE THE CELLAR BE INSPIRED AT AWEN looking for a memorable break with 10 DOOR guests having exclusive use of the Lodge AWEN Lodge bed and breakfast is billed for the rate of $6495 per night, Sunday CELLAR DOOR is the name of a restaurant, as the perfect base from which to explore through Thursday nights. For weekend wine bar and wine tasting facility located in North Canterbury and its wineries. Awen nights (Friday and Saturday) a rate of Christchurch’s Arts Centre, which formerly means the spirit of inspiration and this $8495 applies. housed Annie’s Wine Bar. It offers comparative country retreat is popular with guests wine tasting flights and an extensive selection who come to paint, take photographs, to All “Lord of the Manor” bookings enjoy of local and international wines by the glass walk and sometimes, just to be still and the following inclusions: accommodation and bottle, along with craft beer, cocktails find peace and quiet in the tranquillity of for 10 in five suite and two master and spirits. mountains, streams and forest. suites; pre-dinner drinks with canapés; five-course, set menu dinner; matched Flights of four x 40ml tastes are chosen by Just 40 minutes from Christchurch wine pairings with every course and the team to showcase differences in grape airport, it offers quality bed and breakfast continental and cooked breakfasts. The variety, region and winemaking style. Perhaps accommodation on a small farm adjoining ultimate “house party” for your closest a Spanish albarino paired with an Austrian Mount Grey and Ashley Forest. friends and family, perhaps to mark a gruner veltliner, a German riesling and a special occasion. chenin blanc from Vouvray in the Loire Valley. Amberley is a 15-minute drive away with restaurants, shops and supermarkets Up to six additional guests (for a The menu is locally focussed with dishes and an 18-hole golf course that features maximum of 16 people) may stay at a rate like cured Õra king salmon with apple, citrus stunning views of Amberley Beach. of $500 per additional person per night. and cucumber yoghurt, or perhaps venison tartare. More importantly, perhaps, Awen Lodge Also new at Otahuna Lodge is the is also 15 minutes from the Waipara Valley recently unveiled suite: The Loft. The Locals rave about the pan-seared hapuka with its many vineyards. brightly painted timber-clad walls and with Greystone verjuice beurre blanc (if fresh green tones found in the design available) while other main course options Awen Lodge is also a good base from complement sweeping views across the may include squid ink linguine, or a local which to explore the Alpine Pacific Triangle Great Lawn and to the Southern Alps. For duck breast salad. and its well-known attractions of the hot details see www.otahuna.co.nz. pools at Hanmer Springs and the whale There is also a huge cheese list of around watching and swimming with dolphins at New Zealand and European offerings. Kaikoura. See www.awenlodge.co.nz. See www.cellardoor.nz. Top left: Otahuna Lodge north face of exterior. Middle: Awen Lodge exterior view. Bottom: Interior of Otahuna dining room. Opposite page top left: Exterior of Te Koi Lodge. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 83

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN OTAGO (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley) SEEING RED QT’s expertise in premium food and beverage Distillers dinner on September 17; Dhall and experiences, plus the very best of New Nash Fine Wines dinner on October 29 and AWARD-WINNING chef Ryan Henley is the Zealand producers’ seasonal offerings.” a Taittinger dinner on November 26. new culinary supremo at QT Queenstown with responsibility for the food and beverage See www.qthotels.com/queenstown/ Asked what attracts the crowds to The programme across the hotel’s outlets eat-drink Rees, Rose said: “We have a great bunch including Bazaar Marketplace, Reds Bar, of people on our team who are really and a new pop-up restaurant Lil Red at QT. REST AND REVIVE ATTHE REES motivated to ensure everyone who comes to stay has a great time. With 20 years’ experience across New THE Rees Hotel and Luxury Apartments in Zealand and Australia, Henley has previously Queenstown is a favourite destination with “We are very relaxed and friendly with a worked at the acclaimed The George in local and visiting winemakers alike, partly huge focus on service. The views and food Christchurch, working at the hotel’s Park Bistro because gregarious managing director Mark and wine offerings don’t hurt either!” and fine-dining restaurant Pescatore. Rose is a wine buff himself. The Rees, right on the shores of Lake “Ingredient-focussed - that’s how I’d Rose has vast experience in the hospitality Wakatipu, has also collaborated with local describe my style,” Australian-born Henley industry in the UK, the USA, Australia and artist Fiona Garlick to showcase her work said. “I make sure we have the absolute New Zealand. He is a trained chef and a “The Sentinel”. Garlick was invited to decorate best produce and know where everything specialist in food and beverage services who a wine barrel for the Arrowtown Autumn comes from. “You’ll see sustainably caught has managed vineyard and winery operations Festival. In keeping with her running theme of seafood and native ingredients, with a focus in addition to his hotel management duties. Charming Invaders she augmented the barrel on foraging and raw.” with two bronze birds familiar to the vineyards He came to The Rees Hotel and Luxury of New Zealand. The Karearea (New Zealand The chef has formed partnerships with Apartments Queenstown directly from his falcon), is watching and waiting to pounce on local producers including a fisherman in Bluff role as general manager of the prestigious its prey - a European starling peeking out of who fishes to order each week, Black Origin Cameron House on Loch Lomond, one of the bung hole. Wagyu beef from Christchurch and Leelands Scotland’s finest luxury hotels. lamb that graze on the plains in Invercargill. Starlings were purposefully introduced Rose has spearheaded the Rees’ Culinary to control caterpillar plagues but are now General manager Simon White says: “Chef Series Events, which attract some of the considered pest birds of the orchards and Ryan brings so much talent, energy and top food and wine talent from around New vineyards. It is part of an ongoing series excitement to QT Queenstown, and we’re Zealand and Australia. of works which comments on the tension thrilled to bring to life to a new restaurant between native and introduced flora and concept for QT guests, Queenstown visitors Book ahead to enjoy fine wines paired fauna in the New Zealand landscape. and locals. with dishes from executive chef Corey Hume in True South Dining Room, which Garlick is an Arrowtown sculptor whose “An experimental pop-up, Lil Red at QT will is known for having one of the best wine work has been exhibited widely around New be an exciting culinary destination across lists in New Zealand. Zealand and is held in private collections the height of an eventful winter, showcasing around the world. Among the upcoming events are a Cardrona Queenstown was named by William Rees in 1860 – he came to the region as a pastoralist, but gold was found in the surrounding valleys and in 1865 a gold rush began. The Rees Hotel is named after him. See www.therees.co.nz LOTS ON OFFER IN QUEENSTOWN QUEENSTOWN is known as New Zealand’s adventure capital for both thrills and glorious scenery. Among the local highlights are the Shotover Jet, an exhilarating boat ride, landing at Cecil Peak with The Helicopter Line, The Sawpit Gully climb in Arrowtown, 84 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

travelbriefs and Cardrona ski resort in the winter – long CELEBRATING CENTRAL east of Cromwell with vines planted on runs and the chance to heli-ski. gentle north facing slopes. Wide-scale CENTRAL Otago is New Zealand’s plantings on stony soils capture the Less dangerous is a round of golf at Jacks southernmost wine region, and is home to big extreme climate’s hot summer sun and Point –where the dramatic scenery can be mountains, pristine lakes, and dramatic skies. cold clear nights. a distraction. Easily accessible through Queenstown Wanaka is a couple of mountain ranges The Accor Hotels group has two hotels in Airport, any season is a good time to visit and 80km north of Queenstown, while the heart of Queenstown, with exceptional Central Otago. Visitors can cosy up to a fire Alexandra is the most southerly sub- views of Lake Wakatipu and The Remarkables with a glass of pinot noir after hitting the region with a dry climate. mountain range: Mercure Queenstown Resort slopes in the winter, or cycle to the wineries and Hotel St Moritz MGallery. for some earned indulgence in the summer. ALL THE TRIMMINGS EATS AT ARROWTOWN Exceptional dining options are myriad THE Villa del Lago was named Best in Queenstown and Central Otago, and Luxury Hotel in Queenstown, New THE picturesque former gold mining hamlet the winery restaurants are setting the Zealand in this year’s Luxury Lifestyle of Arrowtown – just a short drive from precedent in fine dining. Awards, held in New York. Queenstown – is home to two outstanding eateries recommended by The Rees There are six sub-regions, all covered in Villa del Lago is a small boutique supremo Mark Rose. detail at www.centralotagonz.com. complex of premium condo-style apartments and king suites, owned and He recommends Aosta “inspired by MAKING GEOGRAPHICAL operated by a husband-and-wife team, the cooking techniques of Northern Italy, SENSE Nik and Charlotte Kiddle. paired with ingredients carefully selected from growers, breeders, suppliers and wine GIBBSTON is situated east of Queenstown This lakeside accommodation is all self- grown on the land around Central Otago along the spectacular Kawarau Gorge. contained, which means no communal area and Arrowtown”. Gibbston is the highest sub-region, its cooler health risks. The Queenstown hiking and climate and north-facing hillside vines ripen cycling trail runs just below the complex, His other choice is La Rumbla, “inspirations later than neighbouring sub-regions, giving affording great tranquillity as all vehicle from the streets and culture of Catalonia, lighter though still intense wines. traffic is kept far away from the hotel. providing dining until late with a lively and relaxed atmosphere. Awesome cocktails”. Bannockburn is on the south bank of the The category of room options includes Kawarau River, at the southern end of the one-bedroom king suites, and two- and three-bedroomed villas - all completely Cromwell Valley. The serviced. They all feature separate vineyards occupy one bedrooms, gas fireplace, spacious living of the warmest, driest areas, fully equipped kitchen for meal sites in the region and preparation, private bathrooms, separate harvest can be up to a laundry areas and an exterior balcony month ahead of other or terrace. sub-regions. There are touches like complimentary Cromwell, Lowburn condiments in the kitchen, complimentary and Pisa are located toiletries, hairdryer, heated towel rail, on the western side underfloor heating, free unlimited wifi, of Lake Dunstan Bose iPod dock, two Smart TVs, and stretching north for sports gear lockers. some 25km from the township of Cromwell. Full kitchen facilities mean catering is a breeze for those indulging in home Bendigo is north- cooked meals. Guest luggage is stored safely free of charge for those heading out on multi-day treks. Top left: Exterior of Hotel St Moritz, MGallery. Bottom: Interior of La Rumbla. Opposite page top left: Lil Red pop up dining space. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 85

OTAGO - Centr al O ta g o & Wa it a k i Va lley 38 TASTED 38 RECOMMENDED S O U T H I S L A N D Otago, Nelson, Canterbury Marlborough dominates the South Island’s wine output. The smaller Coal Pit Central Carrick Organic regions of Otago (including Central Otago and the Waitaki Valley Otago Sauvignon Cairnmuir Terraces in North Otago), Nelson and Canterbury (notably Waipara in Blanc 2020 EBM Central Otago North Canterbury), have just 12 per cent of New Zealand’s total HHH 91pts Chardonnay vineyard area, but they are the home of 34 per cent of the country’s From vines over 25 years 2018 wine producers. This tasting unearthed excellent sauvignon blanc, old at Gibbston, this is HHHH1/2 97pts chardonnay, riesling and pinot gris, and outstanding examples of an intensely varietal, Compared to its gewürztraminer, sweet white wine, rosé and pinot noir. (Note youthful, slightly austere stablemate (above), Marlborough will be featured in a coming issue.) wine. Medium-bodied, this EBM wine has it has a firm acid spine ‘extended barrel Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available and strong, green-apple maturation’ (18 months in export markets are shown as (A) Australia; (UK) and (US). aromas and flavours, in seasoned oak casks). fresh and crisp. $27 Still fairly restrained, it SAUVIGNON Carrick Organic Ataahua Waipara is weighty and lively, BLANC Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc CHARDONNAY with generous, youthful, Central Otago 2020 HHHH 95pts peachy, citrusy, mealy 4 TASTED Sauvignon Blanc A subtle, satisfying style 3 TASTED flavours, well-integrated 4 RECOMMENDED 2019 of sauvignon blanc. 3 RECOMMENDED oak and very good HHHH1/2 97pts Fresh and vibrantly fruity, complexity. Best A small but strong Probably at its peak, with restrained aromas, Chardonnay got off drinking 2023+. $50 class. Two partly barrel- this is an excellent it is full-bodied and to a far slower start Domain Road fermented examples example of Central sweet-fruited, with ripe in Central Otago than Defiance prove that sauvignon Otago sauvignon blanc. passionfruit/lime flavours pinot noir, but is now Bannockburn blanc can yield Certified organic, it was that build well across going from strength Central Otago impressive wines in the estate-grown, hand- the palate to a crisp, dry, to strength, yielding Chardonnay warmer sub-regions picked and fermented lingering finish. $28 age-worthy wines 2019 of New Zealand’s with indigenous yeasts Domain Road with excellent depth, HHHH1/2 96pts southernmost wine in a mix of stainless Vineyard ripeness and vigour. Already enjoyable, this region, Central Otago. steel tanks (68%) Bannockburn estate-grown, slightly and old oak barriques Central Otago Carrick Organic creamy wine was hand- (32%). Bright, light Sauvignon Blanc Bannockburn picked, and fermented yellow/green, with 2019 HHHH 95pts Central Otago and matured for nine a fragrant, complex Still unfolding, this Chardonnay months in French oak bouquet, it is full- estate-grown wine 2018 barrels (22% new). bodied, with strong, was hand-harvested HHHH1/2 97pts Bright, light lemon/ ripe, peachy, limey, and partly (19%) Still youthful, this finely green, it is fragrant slightly toasty flavours, barrel-fermented. balanced, organically and full-bodied, with crisp, dry and long. Bright, light lemon/ certified wine was strong, vibrant, peachy, $23 green, with a ripely fermented and aged citrusy flavours, hints of herbaceous bouquet, for a year in French oak toast and butterscotch, it is mouthfilling, with barriques (13% new). and very good depth, vigorous tropical fruit Bright, light yellow/ complexity and harmony. and herbaceous flavours, green, it is full-bodied $32 (A, UK, US) showing good freshness and vigorous, with good JUDGED BY and complexity, and a intensity of ripe, stone- crisp, dry finish. $23 fruit flavours, gently Michael Cooper (UK, US) seasoned with toasty Winestate’s New Zealand editor oak, mealy notes adding is author of the internationally complexity, and fresh acclaimed Wine Atlas of acidity. $32 (A, UK) New Zealand and the annual New Zealand Wines: Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide, now in its 27th edition. In the 2004 New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for services to wine writing. 86 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

regional tasting RIESLING Maori Point Ataahua Waipara Mount Brown Three Miners Miner’s Central Otago Gewürztraminer Estates Grand Right Central Otago 5 TASTED Riesling 2019 HHHHH 98pts Reserve North Pinot Gris 2019 5 RECOMMENDED 2020 This estate-grown, Canterbury HHHH 95pts HHHH1/2 96pts richly varietal North Pinot Gris 2019 Enjoyable now, this Riesling flourishes From mature vines Canterbury wine was HHHH1/2 97pts single-vineyard wine in Central and North at Bendigo, this racy, partly oak-aged. Bright, This attractively was estate-grown at Otago, yielding highly lively wine is light to light lemon/green, it is scented, full-bodied Alexandra and a small scented, penetratingly medium-bodied, with enticingly perfumed and wine has stone-fruit, part of the blend was flavoured wines with a scented bouquet and weighty, with strong, pear and spice flavours, barrel-fermented. Bright, mouth-watering acidity. penetrating, lemony, ripe peach, lychee and showing excellent light lemon/green, it is Most are medium or slightly appley flavours, spice flavours, showing delicacy and depth. freshly scented and full- medium-dry, but there slightly sweet and crisp. a distinct touch of Strongly varietal, with bodied, with a sliver of is also a rising stream Full of youthful vigour, complexity, and a dryish, a sliver of sweetness sweetness and strong, of finely balanced, dry it’s well worth cellaring well-rounded finish. $28 and fresh acidity, it’s a vibrant pear and spice styles. to 2023+. $30 very harmonious wine, flavours. $28 (A) Blackenbrook Family for drinking now or Carrick Organic Wild Earth Reserve Nelson cellaring. $22 (UK) SWEET Bannockburn Central Otago Gewürztraminer Wild Earth WHITES Central Otago Riesling 2019 Central Otago Dry Riesling 2019 HHHH1/2 96pts Pinot Gris 2020 1 TASTED 2019 HHHH1/2 96pts Still very youthful, this HHHH1/2 97pts 1 RECOMMENDED HHHH1/2 97pts Finely poised, this softly mouthfilling wine This instantly appealing Certified organic, this youthful, single-vineyard was estate-grown and wine is a blend of Ataahua Waipara youthful, bone-dry but wine was grown at hand-picked. Bright, tank-fermented Late Harvest not austere riesling is Bendigo. Light lemon/ light lemon/green, it Gibbston fruit (56%) Gewürztraminer already drinking well. green, it is invitingly is weighty and fleshy, and Lowburn grapes 2020 (375ml) Hand-picked, it was scented and medium- with strong, vibrant (44%), fermented in HHHHH 98pts fermented and aged for bodied, with strong, pear, lychee and old French oak barrels. This distinctive, delicious seven months in old oak vigorous, lemony, spice flavours, gentle Light lemon/green, North Canterbury wine barriques. Attractively peachy flavours, a gentle sweetness and a touch it is freshly scented was made from late- scented, it has strong, splash of sweetness, of tannin. Best drinking and mouthfilling, with picked, raisined berries, ripe, peachy, citrusy, and fresh, tangy acidity. mid-2022+. $32 strong, lively, stone- with 10% ‘noble rot’ vaguely toasty flavours, Well worth cellaring to fruit and spice flavours infection, and slow- balanced acidity and a 2023+. $28 (A, UK, US) PINOT GRIS and a basically dry, very fermented in seasoned harmonious finish. $28 harmonious finish. Best oak barrels. Golden, Black Stilt Waitaki 3 TASTED drinking 2022+. $28 with a perfumed, spicy, Domain Road Valley Riesling 3 RECOMMENDED (A, US) gently honeyed bouquet, The Water Race 2020 HHHH 95pts it is weighty, with fresh Bannockburn Light and lively, this Pinot gris is grown acidity and rich, peachy, Dry Riesling is a rare North Otago throughout New spicy, gently botrytised 2019 wine - only 900 bottles Zealand’s wine regions, flavours, sweet and HHHH1/2 97pts were produced. Bright, but those from southern complex. $26 Richly scented, this light lemon/green, with regions are typically crisp, lively wine was an attractively scented, highly aromatic, with estate-grown at two lemony bouquet, it strong, pure lychee and sites. Light lemon/green, has strong, youthful, pear flavours and fresh, it is still youthful, with citrusy flavours, lively acidity. A gentle lemony, appley flavours, gentle sweetness and touch of oak is also often showing very good appetising acidity. Well used to add a touch of intensity, firm acid spine worth cellaring. $23 complexity and depth. and a long, slightly off- dry finish. Best drinking GEWURZTRAMINER 2023+. $27 (A, UK) 2 TASTED 2 RECOMMENDED September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 87

SOUTH ISLAND - Otago, Nelson, Canterbury ROSÉ PINOT NOIR Rockburn Central Carrick Organic Mount Brown Otago Pinot Noir Bannockburn Estates Grand 3 TASTED 16 TASTED 2019 HHHHH 98pts Central Otago Reserve North 3 RECOMMENDED 16 RECOMMENDED This refined, graceful red Pinot Noir 2018 Canterbury was grown at Parkburn HHHH1/2 97pts Pinot Noir 2019 Pinot noir is the The 2019 vintage yielded (85%) and Gibbston Certified organic, this HHHH1/2 96pts mainstay of the South a bumper crop of pinot (15%) and matured for estate-grown red was Still very youthful, this Island’s rosé output, noir in Central Otago, 10 months in French hand-picked from bold Waipara red was yielding vibrantly fruity, with April rains, right oak casks (33% new). 25-year-old vines and harvested from 20-year- delicate, floral wines. before the harvest, Deep ruby, it is highly matured for nine months old vines and matured The best - such as the boosting berry size. fragrant, mouthfilling in French oak barrels for 18 months in French Coal Pit in this tasting - The outcome has and sweet-fruited, with (20% new). Weighty oak barriques (25% are very classy. been highly attractive, concentrated cherry, and sweet-fruited, it is a new). Deep ruby, with supple reds, well worth plum and spice flavours. sturdy young wine, with a savoury bouquet, it is Coal Pit Central cellaring, but delicious in A hint of herbs with generous cherry, plum, full-bodied, with fresh Otago Pinot Noir their youth. savoury notes adding spice and nut flavours, acidity and cherryish, Rosé 2020 complexity, balanced showing very good plummy, slightly spicy HHHHH 98pts Coal Pit Tiwha acidity, and a supple, complexity, and supple flavours, showing This refined rosé was Central Otago very harmonious finish. tannins. Best drinking excellent complexity made from grapes hand Pinot Noir 2019 Drink now or cellar. $45 2023+. $50 (A, UK) and depth. Best drinking harvested at Gibbston. HHHHH 98pts (A, UK, US) Domain Road 2023+. $30 (UK) Bright pink, it is invitingly This very graceful Ataahua Waipara Bannockburn Rockburn scented and full-bodied, red was estate- Pinot Noir 2019 Central Otago Central Otago with vibrant strawberry grown at Gibbston, HHHH1/2 97pts Pinot Noir 2019 Pinot Noir 2020 and spice flavours, hand-harvested and This attractive North HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH1/2 96pts showing excellent matured in French Canterbury red was Well worth cellaring, This graceful, finely delicacy and depth, a oak casks (25% new). matured for 10 months this estate-grown red poised red was grown hint of apricot, fresh Deep, bright ruby, it is in seasoned oak was hand-harvested at Parkburn (mostly) and acidity and a dry, long perfumed, mouthfilling barrels. Bright ruby, it and matured for 10 Gibbston and matured finish. $31 and supple, with is a refined, savoury months in French oak for 10 months in French generous, ripe cherry, wine, mouthfilling and casks (30% new). Deep oak barrels (33% new). Three Miners Rocker plum and spice flavours, supple, with youthful, ruby, it is fragrant and Deep ruby, it is fragrant Box Central Otago a subtle seasoning of ripe cherry, plum and supple, with youthful and vibrantly fruity, with Rosé 2020 oak, and a beautifully spice flavours, a hint of cherry, plum, spice and mouthfilling body and HHH1/2 93pts poised, silky-textured herbs, good complexity nut flavours, showing strong cherry, plum and This pink/pale red rosé finish. Best drinking and a finely textured very good ripeness and spice flavours, showing was made from pinot 2023+. $57 finish. Best drinking complexity, and a finely excellent vigour and noir, estate-grown 2023+. $40 balanced, smooth finish. harmony. Best drinking at Alexandra. A very Best drinking 2023+. 2024+. $45 (A, UK, US) easy-drinking style, it $40 (A, UK, US) Wild Earth Earth and is vibrantly fruity, with Maori Point Sky Central Otago berryish scents and Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020 flavours, a touch of Central Otago HHHH1/2 96pts sweetness balanced by Pinot Noir 2019 Deeply coloured, with a lively acidity, and good HHHH1/2 96pts fragrant, spicy bouquet, depth. $28 (A) This seductively smooth this ‘reserve’ wine was and harmonious red was grown at three sites Wild Earth Central estate-grown at Tarras, at Bannockburn and Otago Pinot Noir in the Cromwell Basin. matured for a year in Rosé 2020 Ruby hued, it is fragrant, French oak barriques HHH1/2 92pts with generous, ripe (25% new). Youthful but This single-vineyard, cherry, plum and spice already approachable, Gibbston wine has an flavours, savoury notes it is full-bodied and ‘onion skin’ colour, with adding complexity, and sweet-fruited, with hints of pink and orange. gentle acidity. Already concentrated, ripe, Already very expressive, delicious. $43 berryish, spicy flavours, it is a basically dry complex and savoury, style, with a touch and supple tannins. $65 of tannin and good (A, US) depth of peachy, spicy, strawberryish flavours. $28 (A) 88 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

regional tasting Mount Brown Black Stilt Waitaki Remarkable Remarkable Estates North Valley North Otago Bannockburn Bannockburn Canterbury Pinot Noir 2015 Central Otago Central Otago Pinot Noir 2020 HHH1/2 93pts Pinot Noir 2016 Pinot Noir 2017 HHHH 94pts This single-vineyard HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts Bargain-priced, this age- red is released at five Ready to roll, this Deeply coloured, this worthy Waipara red was years old. Mature ruby, single-vineyard red was single-vineyard, hand- matured for 10 months with a slightly leafy matured for 10 months picked, barrel-aged in French oak barriques bouquet, it is medium- in French oak barrels red has a slight lack of (15-18% new). Bright bodied, with very good (25% new). It has deep, delicacy and finesse. ruby, it is full-bodied, depth of spicy, slightly mature colour, fresh However, it is boldly with fresh acidity and nutty flavour, showing acidity and strong plum/ fruity, with strong plum, cherry and spice considerable complexity. spice flavours, slightly cherry, plum and spice flavours, showing very Ready. $35 herbal and earthy. $35 flavours, woven with good vigour and depth. Devil’s Staircase Three Miners fresh acidity. $35 Best drinking 2023+. Central Otago Warden’s Court $20 (UK) Pinot Noir 2020 Central Otago OTHER REDS Remarkable HHH1/2 92pts Pinot Noir 2018 Bannockburn Enjoyable young, this HHH1/2 92pts 1 TASTED Central Otago unoaked red is ruby hued Estate-grown at 1 RECOMMENDED Pinot Noir 2018 and vibrantly fruity, with Alexandra, this ruby- HHHH 94pts good body and depth of hued, single-vineyard Ataahua Waipara Drinking well now, this berryish, spicy flavours, red was matured for Merlot 2019 single-vineyard red was fresh, ripe and smooth. over a year in French HHHH 95pts matured for 10 months (From Rockburn.) $25 (A, oak barriques (25% This youthful North in French oak barrels UK, US) new). Showing good Canterbury red was (25% new). Ruby hued, complexity, it is sweet- estate-grown, hand- it is fragrant, with fruited, with fresh picked and matured for moderately rich cherry, acidity and moderately over a year in seasoned plum and spice flavours, rich, berryish, spicy, oak barrels. Full- nutty, savoury notes slightly nutty flavours. coloured, it is fragrant adding complexity, and Best drinking mid- and mouthfilling, with ripe, supple tannins. $30 2022+. $42 (A) strong berry, plum, spice and herb flavours, savoury notes adding complexity and gentle tannins. Best drinking mid-2022+. $32 Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. Connect on social with Winestate www.facebook.com/Winestate- Magazine twitter.com/winestateed www.instagram.com/winestate/ www.winestate.com.au September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 89

HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ to advertise if they wish, their awarded are then converted into a star rating wine’s review will be featured regardless Wines are invited from any producer, system for publication in Winestate. A of advertising. The judges’ decisions are provided that they meet the criteria gold means 5 stars or 4½ stars, silver is final and these are published according of the class being judged. The class 4, and bronze is 3 or 3½ stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising may be a regional, style or new release is taken or not. tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging system available for consumers to purchase, The judges although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with Winestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a using Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight will procedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical to the judges. The three expert judges expertise and often a marketing/retail taste the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes. without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges are this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, and Masters of Wine with vast international scores, and if there is dissension they will often purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be experience, and most judges have re-taste the wines and come to an evaluated where we believe that these experience at major Australian wine agreement. Scores are compiled using are of consumer or trade interest if these shows. We are also aware of expertise. the 20-point international system: gold have not been entered by the wineries. If we are judging a region, for example, is 18 and above; silver is 17 and above In order to produce the biggest and we will have a winemaker judge from and is an excellent wine; bronze is best wine magazine, Winestate includes that region because that person knows 15.5 and above and represents good advertising; however, this is fiercely the local style. We balance that with wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- independent of any wine tasting editorial a judge from outside the region and drinking wine scores 15 (but does not and we do not sell wines we judge. generally someone with broad and gain a medal). A bland but clean wine Wine companies are advised of the mature experience. scores 14. Below this score there are blind tasting results and it is their choice HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 98 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent Gold 96 - 97 Very Good Silver 18 - 18.4 94 - 95 HHHH High Bronze 92 - 93 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good Bronze 17 - 17.9 90 - 91 Good HHH 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate judges using the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. However, in the interests of the trade and our readers, we have also added points scores that reflect a comparative result. 90 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND September/October 2021 Issue 174 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 In this issue... New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

160 TASTED 139 AWARDED NEW RELEASES One of our highest strike rates for new releases, showing that Glenwillow Bendigo Mitchelton wineries are really putting their good wines forward. It is good Sparkling Shiraz Blackwood Park news if you are looking for your next \"house wine\" or special 2018 HHH 91pts Nagambie Lakes occasion wine, or just a wine that takes your fancy. In this Fresh and elegant Riesling 2021 tasting we had an excellent medal tally across the board, from herbaceous fruit HHHH 94pts whites to reds, with the only mixed results coming from the bouquet with soft, Zesty sweet and floral pinot gris/grigio flight. simple plum palate. $38 fruit fragrances and a lime Note: a wine is a new release if we haven’t seen it before, even juice driven palate with if it is a much older vintage, as seen with some wines in this Coates The Blanc good varietal presence. tasting. de Blancs Adelaide Great acidity. $25 Hills Sparkling Singlefile Great SPARKLING Poetic Justice Taltarni Pyrenees Chardonnay 2016 Southern Riesling Wrattonbully Blanc de Blancs HHH 90pts 2021 HHH1/2 93pts 11 TASTED Sparkling Shiraz 2017 HHHH 94pts Simple sweet primary Dusty peach and apple 11 AWARDED 2019 Toasty nose with a style with nice characters on the nose HHHH1/2 96pts lemony element, a fine persistence of stonefruit with zingy green apple/ Very consistent, good Deep red wine with fresh bead and soft in the characters. $60 stonefruit flavours. $25 quality flight. A wide blueberry, light prune mouth with persistent Singlefile Single range of vintages and and licorice aromatics. delicate fruit flavours. $26 Coates La Petite Vineyard Mount styles with the whites Bold tannic palate with Taltarni Pyrenees Cuvee McLaren Barker Great showing good palate nicely focused fresh fruit Brut 2015 & Adelaide Hills Southern Riesling depth and the reds flavours. Needs food! $25 HHHH 94pts Sparkling Shiraz NV 2021 HHH1/2 93pts balanced and true to Carmine's Black Rich tropical bouquet; HHH1/2 90pts Light grassy green apple style. Label McLaren Vale nice citrus zestiness. Nose is a concoction of bouquet and a drier style Sparkling Shiraz NV Soft mouth-coating dark fruits, licorice and palate with zingy lemon/ Brilla Prosecco HHHH 95pts flavours, some nice spices with a drying lime flavours. $35 Spumante DOC Big prune/raspberry complexity and a long tannic plum palate. $25 Reillys Freya and Veneto Italy savoury nose and finish. $26 Jules Watervale Sparkling Rosé complex tannic palate Bream Creek RIESLING Clare Valley Riesling 2020 HHHHH 98pts layered with cherry and Vineyard Tasmania 2021 HHH 91pts Delicate pretty rose plum flavours and a soft Cuvee Traditionelle 9 TASTED Fresh floral aromatics, petal bouquet with finish. $50 2015 HHHH 94pts 7 AWARDED nice brightness of lime light strawberry and Trentham Reserve Light yeasty citrus characters and residual grapefruit nuances Tasmania aromas with nice green A solid class of fresh and sweetness. $8.99 and a red fruit palate Blanc de Blanc NV apple elements and lively “babies” that are Z Wine [MAE] Eden with a fine bead and HHHH 94pts lovely brioche-like palate yet to show their true Valley Riesling 2021 well-judged residual Lemon curd-like aromas with citrusy fruit. $48 colours. Good potential HHH 91pts sweetness and acid. and creamy in the Carmine's The here. “Nice to see Reserved nose with $20 mouth with nice balance Henry Cuvee SEA natural fruit acidity here a light mintiness and of both citrus and melon Sparkling Shiraz NV rather than added acid,” lovely fresh fruit flavour flavours. $28 HHH 91pts said one judge. intensity. $28 Red currant aromas with developed notes and an Coates The Riesling intensity of spicy fruit Adelaide Hills flavours. $20 Riesling 2020 HHHH1/2 96pts Nose has a lovely lift of fresh citrus fruit and toasty buttery elements. Delightful “custardy” length to the palate. “Mosel-like in style,” said one judge. $35 92 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Capital Wines Hastwell & Lightfoot Hamelin Bay Wines By Geoff Hardy Red The Whip Canberra 'P' Langhorne Creek Margaret River Label Adelaide Hills Riesling 2021 Pinot Grigio 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc HHH 91pts HHH 90pts 2021 HHHH 94pts 2021 HHH 91pts Light citrus/lime driven Quite a savoury fruit Very delicate/elegant Slightly reserved green style with residual nose and a firm, aromas of green apples bean-like bouquet and sweetness underneath. textured, citrus driven and jasmine with similar straightforward acid Needs time! $32 palate. $25 characters concentrated focused, racy palate. on the palate. $26 $20 PINOT GRIS/ SAUVIGNON Babydoll Run Free by GRIGIO BLANC Marlborough Singlefile Great Sauvignon Blanc Southern Sauvignon 6 TASTED 10 TASTED 2021 HHH1/2 93pts Blanc 2021 3 AWARDED 10 AWARDED Subtle green apple and HHH 91pts pea-like aromas and A wine with simple A mixed result. “These “The 2021 vintage delicate fruit flavours clean fruit in the were true to style shows the benefits of with balancing acidity. citrus spectrum and which you don’t often a cool climate season,” $18.99 developing richness. $25 find - the gris were fuller said one judge. “There Yealands Reserve and grigios were leaner was a difference Awatere Valley Cumulus Vineyards and racy as they are between the upfront Marlborough Quilty & Gransden supposed to be,” noted Kiwis and the more Sauvignon Blanc Orange Sauvignon one judge. tempered Aussie styles.” 2021 HHH1/2 93pts Blanc 2020 Nose is pungent and HHH 91pts Longhop Adelaide K1 Adelaide Hills floral and fruity with Grapefruit nose Hills Pinot Gris Sauvignon Blanc great fruit expression tempered with 2021 HHHH 94pts 2021 HHHH 94pts on the palate and has a nettle notes. Good Light bronze wine with Floral/gooseberry zesty end. $19.99 development on the lovely aromas of pears bouquet with medium Yealands palate. $14.99 and delicate varietal intensity and complexity Marlborough fruit flavours with bright of varietal flavours with Sauvignon Blanc SEMILLON & acidity. $22 mouthwatering acidity. 2021 HHH1/2 92pts BLENDS $25 All gooseberry and Kings Creed asparagus. Herbaceous 5 TASTED Adelaide Hills Zonte's Footstep notes to the nose and 5 AWARDED Pinot Grigio 2021 Excalibur Adelaide nice pungency to the HHHH 94pts Hills Sauvignon palate. $16.99 Ripe pear nose with Blanc 2021 a floral lift and nettle HHHH 94pts Capital Wines A very consistent and notes. Great lemony fruit Green apple/gooseberry The Swinger high scoring group of intensity and length on nose with an Central Ranges wines with great wines the palate. $25 herbaceous edge and a Sauvignon Blanc across different vintages. crisp and balanced green 2021 HHH 91pts apple palate. $25 Delicate floral fruit fragrances and sweet cider-like flavours. Nice acid. $28 JUDGES - DAY 1 Jeanne Gobrait Steve Warrick Wine marketing consultant, Wine marketer with Nick Haselgrove including consultancy for David 20 years experience Winestate’s 2010 Australian Ridge Italian Wines, Living in McLaren Vale, Winemaker of the Year. Roots Wines and Paulmara Coonawarra, Adelaide Owner/Winemaker of Estates. Has also worked with Hills and Margaret Nick Haselgrove Wines. Seppeltsfield, Shaw & Smith River. Extensive wine Former chief winemaker at and the French Wine Centre. judging experience at Haselgrove Wines. A ‘flying Has completed WSET course the Adelaide, Hobart winemaker’ from 1993-95. and AWRI advanced wine and McLaren Vale Judge at Hobart for 3 years assessment course. Associate wine shows. and associate judge at judge at Adelaide wine show. Adelaide in 1996-97. Extensive International export activities. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 93

NEW RELEASES Audrey Wilkinson Audrey Wilkinson Carillion Lovable Flowstone Haselgrove Staff Marsh Vineyard Winemakers Rogue Skin Contact Margaret River Adelaide Hills Semillon 2021 Selection Hunter Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay 2020 HHHH1/2 97pts Valley Semillon Vermentino 2021 HHHH1/2 96pts HHH 91pts Grapefruit/lime 2021 HHH1/2 93pts HHH 90pts Complexity of flinty, Zesty lemon fruit, great aromas with delicate Green apple and A citrus nose and a toasty and floral aromas zingy acidity and a nice floral traces. Great lime bouquet with fresh straightforward and more complexity dash of oak spice. $35 concentration, balance lovely floral notes. palate. Needs time to of buttery toasty fruit and length of citrus/ Palate is savoury and evolve. $30 obvious on the long, ripe Peter Teakle Estate apple fruit flavours with herbaceous. $30 and fleshy palate. $36 The Peninsulas crisp acidity. $40 CHARDONNAY Flowstone Queen of Chardonnay 2019 Hamelin Bay Wines the Earth Margaret HHH 91pts Singlefile Margaret River 14 TASTED River Chardonnay Oaky nose and nice Great Southern Semillon Sauvignon 10 AWARDED 2018 HHHH 95pts buttery complexity of Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Light melon nose with melon and fig flavours. Blanc 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Some very young wines a citrus edge and a $25 HHHH1/2 96pts Reserved citrus/ here noted the judges. powerful concentration This blend is a lovely apple aromas and a “These need to develop of lovely citrusy/melon Eight at The Gate fusion of edgy green firm, fresh and vibrant in the bottle to show flavours. $55 Single Vineyard lemon fruit characters palate. Super complex. at their best,” said one Wrattonbully VBBAEULSYUTSE with a meadow hay-like Great acidity. $26 judge. “Some nice older Chardonnay complexity and great examples here to prove 2018 HHH 91pts “powdery” acidity. $25 OTHER WHITE the point!” A reserved style soft Audrey Wilkinson VARIETALS & with oak and fruit and Series Hunter Valley BLENDS has some great acidity. Semillon 2021 $18 HHHH 94pts 4 TASTED Tight lime nose with 2 AWARDED Cox Family light zestiness and long Wines Pyrenees citrusy flavours with A couple of good Chardonnay floral notes. Needs time examples here. 2018 HHH 91pts to fatten the palate. $25 Sweet fruit fragrances and good length and intensity of varietal fruit flavours. $30 Foggo Eight at The Gate Cumulus Vineyards Hirsch Hill Estate The Enchantress Family Selection Quilty & Gransden Yarra Valley McLaren Vale Wrattonbully Orange Chardonnay Chardonnay 2020 Chenin Blanc Chardonnay 2019 2019 HHHH 94pts HHH 90pts 2021 HHH 90pts HHHHH 98pts Buttery ripe peach Buttery and slightly Fresh floral/musky Super toasty complexity bouquet and a long toasty style threaded aromas and crisp lemon on the nutty/figgy nose fleshy stonefruit palate through with preserved palate with light phenolic with lovely richness with hints of preserved lemon. $25 structure. $22 and depth of toasty/ lemon characters. lemon meringue flavours $14.99 ROSÉ with controlled lemony Hamelin Bay Wines length. $38 Margaret River 14 TASTED Chardonnay 2020 11 AWARDED HHH 91pts Reserved lemon sherbet Lots of nice quaffers of a nose and a palate. here for current drinking. Great intensity and “The best rosés are complexity. $33 designated wines rather than being just after thoughts,” said one judge. “Good to see most rosés now are dry in style rather than overly sweet.” 94 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Dee Vine Estate The Schwarz Wine Co GRENACHE Monteperle Reserve Monteperle Barossa Drover Riverina Rosé Schwarz Barossa Barossa Valley Valley G.S.M. 2019 2020 HHHH 94pts Valley Rosé 2021 8 TASTED Grenache 2018 HHHH1/2 96pts Rich red fruit nose HHH 91pts 6 AWARDED HHH 91pts A complexity of dark with a lovely textured Nutty stonefruit Spicy malty fragrances brooding fruits on the savoury palate with aromas and flavours; “A lovely variety, well- and maturing sweet nose and a super juicy great intensity and great mouth-puckering handled here,” said cherry/cola palate with palate rich with lovely concentration of fruit. acidity. $28 one judge. “Nice fresh, grainy tannins. $165 red fruits and has good $4.99 Barristers Block juicy fruits with retained tannin/acid balance. $65 Born Rose Penedes McLaren Vale vibrancy.” GRENACHE Grampians Estate Spain Grenache Tempranillo Rosé BLENDS Woolclasser's GST Rosé 2020 2020 HHH 91pts The Old Faithful Grampians Grenache HHH1/2 93pts A nicely structured McLaren Vale 8 TASTED Shiraz Tempranillo A delicate subtle rosé slightly “edgy” style Grenache 2019 8 AWARDED 2020 HHHH 94pts that has lovely control with zesty red fruit. $25 HHHH1/2 97pts Fragrant perfumed plum and balance of peach Grampians Estate A lively wine with great “What a great blender,” nose, lovely medium and strawberry fruit. $30 Drovers Grampians concentration of elegant said the judges. bodied palate, cranberry Bream Creek Rosé 2021 blackberry/plum and “Winemakers are flavours and powdery Tasmania Pinot Rosé HHH 90pts licorice fruit characters, thinking about this blend tannins. Time! $28 2021 HHH1/2 92pts A fresh and crunchy some fine and lively as offering great layering Blackbilly McLaren Bright pink wine with strawberry and cream tannins with great of the different varieties.” Vale G.S.M. 2019 delicate rose petal style with excellent acidity. $75 HHHH 94pts aromas and good fruit length. $25 Rusty Bike Wines Fragrances of mixed palate with intense Z Wine [AVELINE] Bec Hardy Wines The Penny-farthing peel and spices. Good acidity. $31 Barossa Rosé 2021 Pertaringa Two McLaren Vale Clare varietal flavour intensity Carillion HHH 90pts Gentlemen's Valley Grenache and complexity. Tight Expressions Tart raspberry/ McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020 tannins, supple acid. $25 Orange Rosé 2021 strawberry fruit with Grenache 2020 HHHH1/2 96pts Clarence Hill Red HHH 91pts high acidity and a citric HHHH 94pts Lovely ripe vibrant red Label McLaren Vale A savoury nose and finish. $25 A tight wine with fleshy berry and cassis fruit G.S.M. 2019 palate with great fruit Carmine's The plum fruit and savoury intensity here balanced HHHH 94pts concentration and Rose McLaren Vale tar/licorice nuances with with herbal/savoury Blue fruits on the nose balancing acid. $25 Grenache Rosé 2020 soft tannins. Needs nuances and has tight, with a spicy/herbal HHH 90pts more time. $25 super fine, tannins. $26 complexity and an olive Foggo Floraison Candied rose nose and tapenade–like palate. McLaren Vale simple, slightly sweet, Blackbilly McLaren Taltarni Pyrenees Has potential! $35 Sangiovese Rosé juicy fruit palate. $22 Vale Grenache 2020 G.S.M. 2020 2021 HHH 91pts Shingleback HHHH 94pts HHHH1/2 96pts Sweet perfumed Haycutters Salmon Reserved jammy nose Lots of black fruits on the musky aromas and a McLaren Vale Rosé and nice weight and nose and layered with dry palate with juicy 2021 HHH 90pts texture to the savoury oak. Lovely fruit weight fruit flavours. $25 A bouquet of palate with great fruit and intensity on the palate strawberries and rose intensity and supple with the acidity nicely in petals with a savoury tannins. $25 check. $26 palate and sweet finish. $18 Pirramimma Reserve Schwarz Wine Co White Label Old The Grower Barossa Vine McLaren Vale Valley G.S.M. 2020 Grenache 2019 HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts Subtle blue fruit aromas Cherries, chocolate with spicy notes. Nicely and licorice aromas concentrated juicy with a nicely structured varietal fruit on the palate palate showing good with fine tannins and fruit depth and proud controlled acidity. $30 tannins. $35 Salena Estate Wines Ink Series Langhorne Creek Grenache 2018 HHHH 94pts Bright spicy red berry bouquet and sweet juicy raspberry/cranberry palate with appropriate acid length. $25 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 95

NEW RELEASES Pirramimma OTHER RED Zonte's Footstep CABERNET & Stock's Hill VARIETALS & Canto Fleurieu BLENDS McLaren Vale G.S.M. BLENDS Sangiovese Lagrein 2018 HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts 19 TASTED Gently maturing style 10 TASTED Firm savoury style with 19 AWARDED with super ripe fruit, plum/sour cherry fruit, bright spices and grainy 8 AWARDED balsamic notes and Very consistent class! tannins. $22 grainy tannins. $30 “The results ranged from solid to great with MERLOT & An interesting diverse Pirramimma the best showing fruit BLENDS line-up here with a Reserve White Label freshness,” said one couple of standouts. McLaren Vale Petit judge. “These often 5 TASTED Verdot 2018 show either red varietal 5 AWARDED Taltarni Pyrenees HHH 91pts fruits or non-varietal Sangiovese A straightforward dry dry red characters with A solid group with the Cabernet 2020 red style with great premium oak maturation best showing line and HHHH1/2 96pts varietal fruit and rich often the difference.” length without a hollow An attractive blend tannins. $35 mid-palate. heading into savoury Pirramimma Brand & Sons territory with spicy red Ironstone McLaren Sanctuary Nightfall Single Cumulus Vineyards fruit nose and intense Vale Petit Verdot Coonawarra Barrel Coonawarra Quilty & Gransden cranberry/plum flavours 2018 HHH 91pts Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2019 Orange Merlot with drying tannins and Firm angular wine with 2019 HHHHH 98pts HHHH 94pts 2018 HHH 91pts tight acidity. $26 inky intensity of dark Rich, succulent aromas Dark brambly fruit Delicate varietal fruit varietal fruits and rich of cassis blackberry, fragrances and nicely nose, blackberry/plum Nightfall Single tannins. $70 chocolate and licorice. textured cool climate flavours and tangy Barrel Coonawarra Monteperle Reserve Lovely balanced palate palate. Quite tannic with acidity. $14.99 Cabernet Franc 2019 Barossa Valley with concentrated plum attractive malty oak. $80 HHHH1/2 96pts Mataro 2018 and cherry flavours Fragrant and perfumed HHH 90pts and nicely controlled Bec Hardy Wines Dindima Orange on the nose with pine Earthy chocolaty nose, tannins. $130 Pertaringa Stage Merlot 2017 needle hints. Ripe juicy woody plum palate Left Adelaide Hills HHH 91pts fruit palate, interesting and leathery maturity Nightfall Draco Merlot 2019 A wine that’s all spiciness, good oak/acid developing. $165 Coonawarra HHH 91pts plums, blackberries integration. $80 Salena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon An attractive mix of and licorice with forest Wines Ink Series 2019 spicy red fruit, cassis floor traces. $50 Salena Estate Wines Langhorne Creek HHHH1/2 97pts and black olives with tart Reillys RCV ex-PRESS-ion Ruby Mourvèdre 2018 Choc mint and red fruit acidity. $25 'Stoneflower' Cabernet Riverland HHH 90pts nose with light cedary Clare Valley Merlot Ruby Red 2020 Dark fruit characters, oak. Palate shows nice Cabernet 2016 HHH 91pts malty nuances, some layers of fleshy berry HHH 91pts Primary plum bouquet mocha and sweet fruit, proud tannins and Nicely ageing wine with and quite a tannic palate tannins. $25 good acidity. $150 forest floor characters with good blue fruit mingling with plums and intensity. $25 spices. $40 We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au 96 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Nightfall Leo Single Mary Street Bream Creek Reillys Dry Land Barrel Coonawarra Vintners Archer's Tasmania Cabernet Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Point Coonawarra Merlot 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon HHH 91pts 2017 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 96pts 2019 HHHH 94pts It’s all here; sweet Mature earthy fruit Lifted plum, berry and An earthy cassis mix of plums, licorice, cassis, aromas with well- cassis bouquet that is aromas with sweet juicy spices, toasty oak and defined varietal echoed on the pleasant varietal fruit flavours, balancing acidity. $36 characters on the fleshy palate that has supple tannins and good Pirramimma palate. $38 structure and balance oak. $18 Reserve White Eight at The Gate with good tannin Koonara Angels Label McLaren Vale Single Vineyard length. $80 Wings Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Wrattonbully Cabernet Shiraz 2018 HHH 91pts Cabernet Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 93pts Delicate fruit nose, 2016 HHH 91pts Nicely aged chocolaty traces of violets, bright Smells of prunes and notes with menthol red fruit flavours and soft raspberries with very traces to the cherry fruit tannins. $35 good length of blue fruit and balanced with great Taltarni Old Vine flavours. $28 line of acid. $28 Pyrenees Cabernet Dindima Orange 2018 HHH 91pts Cabernet Sauvignon Hamelin Bay Wines Cumulus Vineyards A nose of sweet cloves 2017 HHH 90pts Margaret River Quilty & Gransden and vanilla spices with a Fine fragrant raspberry Cabernet Sauvignon Orange Cabernet dark chocolaty savoury fruit with spicy oak, 2020 HHH 91pts Sauvignon 2018 palate. $45 chewy tannins and a Steely green aromas, HHH 91pts Pirramimma ACJ malty finish. $38 bright youthful cassis Mocha mixes with blue McLaren Vale Hirsch Hill Estate fruit, light mintiness and fruits on the nose and Cabernet Petit Yarra Valley fine tannins. $33 has peppery varietal Verdot 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon flavours. $14.99 HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 90pts Shingleback Davey Mitchelton Estate Coates The Inky prune bouquet Light minty fruity nose Estate McLaren Vale Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and great length and and peppery herbaceous Cabernet Sauvignon Nagambie Lakes Langhorne Creek concentration of chocolaty characters to the blue 2019 HHHH 94pts Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon fruit flavours. $100 fruit palate. $25 Dark brooding bouquet 2019 HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts and simple berry fruit Aromas of plums, Leafy fruit fragrances Monteperle Reserve profile on the well- cherries and sweet and intense bright red Barossa Valley structured palate. Full vanilla and a chocolaty currant flavours with Cabernet Sauvignon tannins and crisp acid. $25 fruit palate. $25 greenish tannins. $35 2018 HHH 91pts Woody spicy nose; some plums and cherries. Earthy palate with good savoury length. $185 COANIOLA WINES The W ine & Spirit29I/N07S/20I2D1 E1R0:03:23 AM97 YAA VALLEY Corniola Wines is nestled in the heart of the famous Yarra Valley wine region in Victoria. Experience the smaller, family owned and operated winery and Cellar Door. We are pleased to offer you our current range of wines made from hand-picked Estate grown fruit and from selected vineyards, with the focus being to create affordable wines of premium high quality. 100 Wills Rd, Dixons Creek VIC 3775, Australia Phone: 03 5965 2393 Opening Hours: 10:30am – 5:00pm, Monday - Sunday www.corniolawines.com.au AD_Corniola Wines_QPH_SO21.indd 1

NEW RELEASES SHIRAZ & Hemera Limited Flowstone Mary Street Vintners Blackbilly McLaren BLENDS Release Home Moonmilk Red Archer's Point Vale Shiraz 2019 2020/2019 Block Barossa Margaret River Coonawarra Shiraz HHH 91pts Valley Shiraz 2019 Shiraz Grenache 2019 HHHH 94pts Delicate floral aromas 19 TASTED HHHH1/2 96pts 2020 HHHH 94pts Nose is a delightful lift and great plum/cherry 19 AWARDED A ripe well-rounded wine Smells like plums, of cassis, cherries, roses flavour intensity with with sour cherries and prunes and sweet spices and eucalypt with a well- angular tannins. $25 Excellent class of solid raspberry tartness laced with a bright purple fruit balanced tannic palate of wines with concentration with oak, fine green palate and some great blue fruits. $18 Fullylove Pyrenees and harmony of fruit and tannin and good acidity. acidity. $25 Grampians Estate Shiraz 2020 oak.” “We are seeing One for the cellar. $60 Carmine's Basket Mafeking Grampians HHH 90pts lower levels of oak Bec Hardy Wines Press Old Vine Shiraz 2019 A toffee apple of a nose here than in previous Bec Hardy Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz HHHH 94pts and bright spicy blue vintages,” noted one McLaren Vale 2020 HHHH 94pts Savoury briary style fruit flavours with fresh judge. “There seems to Shiraz 2019 Raspberry aromas with of shiraz with good acidity. $25 be a lot more finesse HHHH1/2 96pts toasty/musky notes. integration of blueberry by winemakers these Very subtle sweet plum Light fruit palate filled fruit, spicy oak and soft SHIRAZ & days with good oak aromas with hints of with rhubarb and red tannins. $25 BLENDS integration and fruit vanilla oak. Lovely palate currant flavours. $28 Taltarni Old Vine 2018 & OLDER parcel selection.” structure with long Schwarz Wine Co Pyrenees Shiraz “waves” of balanced The Grower Barossa 2019 HHHH 94pts 14 TASTED Bec Hardy Wines fruity flavours. Nice Valley Shiraz 2020 Chocolaty nose with 13 AWARDED Nature Foundation acidity. $70 HHHH 94pts some violets and a bit Barbara Hardy Hamelin Bay Wines Dark inky fruit nose with of lavender and good Another strong class McLaren Vale Rampant Red chocolaty elements savoury length to the all coming into their Shiraz 2019 Margaret River and dense fruit palate black fruit palate. $45 “drinking windows”. HHHH1/2 96pts Shiraz Blend with crisp acidity and Maygars Hill “These are intense in Light bright and juicy 2020 HHHH 94pts greenish tannins. $30 Strathbogie Ranges flavour with the strong wine with great intensity A blueberry licorice Hamelin Bay Wines Shiraz 2019 2018 vintage coming to of red fruit characters, compote of a nose with Margaret River HHH1/2 93pts the fore,” said one judge. some forest floor fleshy fruit flavours, Shiraz 2020 A seamless integration “Although they are all elements, oaky notes, supple tannins and high HHHH 94pts of savoury fruit, spicy drinking well now they fleshy tannins and great acidity. $22 Aromas of plums, cassis notes, oak, fine tannins will repay with further acidity. $20 and licorice with finely and crisp acidity. $32 cellaring.” structured cherry/cassis Mitchelton Estate Coates The Gimp palate, hints of licorice. Single Vineyard The Old Faithful McLaren Vale Has potential. $33 Nagambie Lakes McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2019 Schwarz Wine Co Shiraz 2019 2017 HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts Meta Barossa Valley HHH1/2 92pts Dense briary fruit A spice box of a nose Shiraz 2020 Shy nose has a hint of fragrances; some forest with plenty of ripe HHHH 94pts greenness. Medium floor and licorice. Great creamy berry fruit. Leathery spiced plum weight palate of red varietal fruit intensity Lovely depth of great nose and great length fruits, cedary oak and and length; tastes of shiraz fruit flavours with and intensity of spicy fine acid. $25 cherries and raspberries a great tannin and acid plum flavours with Bec Hardy Wines with tea leaf characters structure. $35 powdery tannins. $38 Pertaringa Over the and fine tannins. $75 Schwarz Wine Co Top McLaren Vale Nitschke Block Shiraz 2019 The Old Faithful Single Vineyard HHH1/2 92pts Cafe Block McLaren Barossa Valley Cedar and malt evident Vale Shiraz 2017 Shiraz 2020 on the plum/cherry nose HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH 94pts with a dark oaky palate Red fruit fragrances with Smells like a Cherry and super ripe fruit. $40 a complexity of cigar-like Ripe chocolate bar! It is oak, marzipan and malt. supple and fleshy in the Well-rounded in the mouth with flavours of mouth with flavours of sweet spices. $50 plums and cherries. $75 98 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Wimmera Hills Clarence Hill Red SWEET WINES Winery \"Dedication\" Label McLaren Vale Pyrenees Shiraz 2018 4 TASTED Shiraz 2018 HHHH 94pts HHHH1/2 96pts A lift of rhubarb on the 2 AWARDED Lovely concentration of nose with a whiff of dense licoricey briary cedar and good varietal An interesting small fruit complemented by fruit intensity and high and diverse class with a a complexity of spicy acidity. $35 couple of nice examples. oak. It has freshness, Mitchelton vibrancy and nice Heathcote Estate Trentham VBBAEULSYUTSE Follow us and keep up to spiciness. $25 Grown Heathcote Reserve Murray date with all our latest Mitchelton Spring Shiraz 2018 Darling Noble wine info, tastings and Block Heathcote HHHH 94pts Taminga Shiraz 2018 Smell like a spice box 2015 HHHH 94pts events on facebook, HHHH1/2 96pts with chocolaty elements Honeyed stonefruit twitter and instagram. Aromas of red currant and has flavours of fragrances with nice and sweet vanilla oak stewed plums with a floral elements. Fleshy Connect on social with with some toastiness. slight mintiness. $40 mouth-filling sweet fruit Winestate Excellent fruit flavours Mitchelton Toolleen flavours. Needs food! seamlessly combined Vineyard Heathcote $18 www.facebook.com/Winestate- with the oak and Shiraz 2018 Magazine tannins. $75 HHHH 94pts Dee Vine Estate Mitchelton Ripe plum bouquet The Drover Riverina twitter.com/winestateed Print Heathcote with mocha traces and Moscato 2020 www.instagram.com/winestate/ Shiraz 2018 moderate intensity HHH 90pts HHHH1/2 96pts of spicy varietal fruit Pungent Muscat aromas www.winestate.com.au Tarry dark fruit bouquet flavours. $55 and a pear/peach palate with spices, vanilla and Dindima Orange with plenty of acidity to some nuttiness. Big rich Shiraz 2017 balance the sweetness. palate, well-structured HHHH 94pts $4.99 with good depth of Light nuance of oak fruit flavours and grainy layered over briary tannins. $150 fruit and tempered by tannins. Very peppery and licorice-like. $50 Tocco Wines Five Generations Old Vines Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 93pts Dense cassis/licorice nose with some cedar oak and a flavour mix of cherry cola and licorice. $35.99 Cumulus Vineyards Reillys Dry Land Quilty & Gransden Clare Valley Shiraz Orange Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 92pts 2018 HHHH 94pts Nicely maturing cool Ethereal aromas climate shiraz packed of berries, plums with red currants, and malt. Fleshy in cherries, prunes and the mouth tasting licorice. $38 of cranberries and Eight at The Gate blackberries. $14.99 Family Selection Wrattonbully Shiraz 2016 HHH 91pts Developing gracefully with good intensity of plum, rhubarb and spicy oak. $48 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 99

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Eight at The Gate Single Trentham Estate Grown Trentham Reserve Vineyard Wrattonbully Pinot Gris 2021 Murray Darling Noble Chardonnay 2018 Subtle sweet pear nose. Taminga 2015 A reserved style soft with oak Appropriately creamy and Honeyed stonefruit fragrances and fruit and has some great oily in the mouth with pear with nice floral elements. acidity. $18 flavours. $18 Fleshy mouth-filling sweet fruit flavours. Needs food! $18 Eight at the Gate Trentham Estate Pty Ltd Phone: 0400 843 126 Phone: 03 5024 8888 Trentham Estate Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 03 5024 8888 Web: www.eightatthegate.com.au Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND $U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. 100 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER