Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2014

WINE of the yearPRIDE&PASSIONPAYS OFFThe 2012 Carnival of Love is massively deep incolour, with beautiful aromas of plums, freshberries and a hint of chocolate. When the parcels of fully ripened grapes enter the winery they are The attention to detail all the way through the process is mindhandled with “kid gloves” and given the “Rolls-Royce” treatment, blowing, with tasting and testing being part of a daily routinewith a ferment that starts off at 25C and is gradually cooled down to ensure the balance and flavours in the wine right up untilas the alcohol levels rise in the wine. This is done according to the wines are bottled. Even when they go to bottle the wine,an in-house formula in order to extract the maximum possible the filtration is a light “polish filtration” - gentle and designedflavour and colour from the grapes. Each ferment is tasted and to add a little sheen to the wine rather than remove impuritiestested three times a day. Prior to fermentation finishing,when the sugar level is still at around 5 Baume, the as is the case with many commercial wines.wine is pumped into brand new American oak Once the wine is filtered it is allowed to restbarrels for the rest of the fermentation to for 24 hours before its final pre-bottlingtake place, as it is believed that the wine check to ensure that the filtration hashas a greater capacity to absorb oak not detracted from the wine.flavours at this stage in its evolution. This wine comes resplendent withEach barrel is tasted and tested daily an attractive, bright, lively and quirkyuntil the fermentation has ceased, at cartoon label created by Sarah as partwhich time the wine is pumped into another of the overall - “wine is fun” philosophy ofnew oak barrel for maturation, with a degree ofvigorous oxygenation along the way which helps this dynamic duo.to enhance the fruit characters of the wine. Thus these wines The 2012 Carnival of Love is massively deephave in effect 200 per cent new American oak. The maturation oakbarrels have specific flavour profiles selected so as to impart the in colour, with beautiful aromas of plums, freshcharacters desired in the finished wine. There are constant oak berries and a hint of chocolate. On the palate, it has mochatrials so as to best match the barrels to the flavours desired in the and chocolate flavours, with lovely fine-grained tannins leading tofinished wines. a long, lingering finish that seems to go on forever. They certainly have achieved their aim of making the drinker go “wow” when they taste it. I did, then sat there and looked at Mollydooker through the glass. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 101

winewords A L A N D I D A KUNWINE.COM.AU & INDI WINES – OWNERSKYE MURTAGH How do you hope to make your mark in the online wine sales game? I intend to source and supply my customers with the best wine for a great price, with a promise of great customer service and fast delivery. In the near future, I plan to expand my range even more and offer a diverse range of products. What’s the story behind the name of your new Indi wine range? Similar to naming the website, after a few months of consideration, we decided to name the wine after my daughter, Indi. Obviously we love the name and she has brought so much joy into our lives, so it seemed fitting to move into the next stage of my career by dedicating as much passion into my label as I have for fatherhood.After hanging up his footy boots at the end Describe your new unWine business and Why launch the range with a Heathcoteof 2013, former AFL premiership player tell us the story behind its name? shiraz and a Barossa Valley grenacheAlan Didak is now looking to make a name unWine is a boutique online liquor store shiraz?for himself off-field, in the wine arena. In that sells hand selected premium wine I’ve always had a preference for full-June he launched his online wine sales from all over the globe at competitive bodied red wine, so it was withoutbusiness, unWine - followed in July with prices. The unWine team debated over question that I decided to establishthe release of his own wine range, Indi a number of names, but we all agreed the label with my choice of wine from- named after his first-born. It’s not the that the play on unwinding with wine was regions I love. Being from SA, I oftenfirst time a sportsperson has chosen to clever and catchy. frequent Barossa upon my return, as Iforge a career post-retirement in the food believe they have some of the best shirazand beverage industry, but Didak insists Why the move into online wine sales in the world.his passion for food and wine is far from particularly?flirting and these new interests have been Online shopping is the way of the future What factors will influence future releasesin the works for several years. While Didak and I wanted to minimise my overheads in the Indi range?credits the support of an experienced at the start. By selling online I also have We are consistently sent samples eachteam in guiding him through the initial set- the flexibility to be out on the road to week from some great wineries from allup of his new ventures and their ongoing see suppliers and customers. When over Australia and invest a lot of timemanagement, he is the public face of both the business is more established I’ll into visiting wineries to further extendand, as such, is staunchly committed to hopefully have a retail shop, too. In the our knowledge of the process of winemaintaining a “100 per cent hands-on” meantime, I am also selling to boutique production. We want to ensure werole in what now constitute his primary wine cellars, both IGA Renaissance are only selling premium wine atbusiness concerns and the beginnings of stores in Hawthorn and a handful of reasonable prices, so we don’t takewhat he refers to as his “ultimate career”. restaurants around Melbourne. the process lightly and we pride ourselves on this. We plan to extend the Indi range just before this Christmas, by releasing another shiraz from McLaren Vale, a sauvignon blanc from Adelaide Hills and a chardonnay from Margaret River.102 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

How “hands-on” is your role in both When did your personal interest in wine businesses? really begin and what sparked it? I am 100 per cent hands-on for both the When I arrived in Melbourne from online component and the wine label Adelaide as a 17-year-old, I found itself, from taking orders and making myself surrounded with older people deliveries, to bottling the wine and and gradually over time I began labelling and packaging. Of course, as to appreciate wine through being previously mentioned, I ensure I sample constantly exposed when out for dinner the wine prior to making the commitment with them. It wasn’t really until the last to putting my name to it. I’m very lucky seven or eight years that I really began that I’ve also got a great team and am to understand the terminology used comforted by the fact that they have had when describing wine and the different years of experience in the wine industry. varieties.How are you sourcing grapes for the Does being a well-known sportsperson What’s your favourite wine accessory?Indi range? impact these new ventures? My wife bought me a Riedel swanWe basically have contacts all over There are definitely some notable decanter a couple of years ago and IAustralia scouting for the best wine positives, as I have been able to fast track absolutely love it! Fair to say it has beenavailable for the Indi team to sample. my business simply by having the right put to good use!Then we hand pick the ones we like for contacts established through footy. Beingproduction. Not a bad gig! in the public eye has also awarded me a How have your wine tastes personally decent following through social media changed over the years?How has the consumer market responded platforms, in which I am able to promote My preference hasn’t actually changedso far to both your new wine ventures? my website and wine label. However, as too much, as I still prefer a shiraz overMy friends and family have been very this is the next stage in my professional the other varieties of wine. What hassupportive in my new adventure thus life, I did want to make a clear-cut changed is my understanding andfar and have provided me with some distinction between being a professional knowledge of wine, grape varieties andgood, positive feedback. It’s still only sportsperson and grow unWine and Indi regions. I have certainly developed aearly days, but the true reflection of its wines on my own merits, rather than play level of proficiency in differentiating age,progress will be from the more long-term the footy card, so to speak. region and the type of wine and I cansales, whereby we see restaurants, bars also appreciate the lighter blends now,and retails stores reordering. Although What food and wine match-up will feature despite not being my preference.I have been particularly surprised with on the Didak dining table on ChristmasIndi wine’s popularity. So far so good. day? What wine will you ring in the New Year Well, all my family and friends love a nice with? shiraz regardless of the food, so we will Every year we gather a collection of probably enjoy a bottle from Elderton, wine, decant them and do a blind tasting. Rockford, Standish or Torbreck from the We then each score the wine in order Barossa. We can’t go past our traditional of what we like best and what we think Croatian food at a family gathering though! each one is and from what region. It’s a fun way to end the year! Would most footy players prefer a beer over a burgundy, or is that a fallacy What’s the best piece of advice you were nowadays? given before starting out in the wine To be honest, that most likely is still business? the case, but it is slowly changing in I was told to listen and learn from the favour of wine. When I first started at people who have been there and done Collingwood, only the older players it and to not be scared of failure. Every drank wine, however now more and more new business is daunting, but I believe of the younger ones are partial to a wine if the passion is there, it will always be over dinner. Perhaps it was my influence! a success. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 103

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELAs Brisbane’s Southbank, over the river In the neighbouring suburb of West End chilli and lime, get their delicious char. Ditto thefrom the CBD, grows into a hugely popular is a much smaller venue, also recently share plates like whole fish of the day, Blackprecinct, more restaurants, cafes and bars opened. The China Inn is a modest space Angus cube roll or slow cooked lamb shoulderare opening seemingly on a daily basis. and as yet is still BYO but it serves some of all of which comes with a mixed leaf saladAnd one recent opening, The Charming the best soup dumplings in town. A pretty and new potatoes. Salt baked beetroot withSquire, is all three under the one roof. mural of water lilies adorns one wall but all whipped burrata and truffled honey shouldn’tLocated across from the Performing Arts eyes will be on those little bamboo baskets be missed, and neither should the crispyComplex and under the newly expanded that deliver delicious parcels of fragrant duck salad with lentils and shallot vinaigretteBrisbane Exhibition and Convention Centre, chicken and consomme spilling out. And paired with some of the Spanish and Italianthe cafe section of the venue opens on to the Shanghai Xiao long bao aren’t the only charcuterie. Garden City Shopping Centre,the road right near the ever-busy South things that come in baskets - poached pork Upper Mt Gravatt; phone (07) 3422 1870.Brisbane train station. Commuters line up and cabbage, steamed dim sums, driedfor coffee, businessmen and women catch wontons in chilli oil and shrimp dumplings Hatch & Co opened in 2013 in the newup over coffee in the sun and snack on a are all delicious as are the grilled shallot Gasworks complex in the heart of Teneriffe inrange of cafe-style sweets and savouries. pancakes and the Shanghai crispy spring Brisbane’s inner north. It’s another venue forThe bar is at the opposite end of the venue rolls. Shop 9, 220 Melbourne St, South family restaurateurs, the Moubarak Group,and boasts a vast array of craft beers. The Brisbane; phone (07) 3255 3838. which also owns several bars and the multi-main dining space is large, with high ceilings awarded Gerard’s Bistro and Gerard’s Bar. Itand kilometres of blond wood panelling. Further south at Mt Gravatt the Garden opened another Hatch & Co recently, also atThe kitchen is probably the best design City Shopping Complex has had a Mt Gravatt and, like The Palm’s, offers a widefeature - floor to ceiling glass walls are all major makeover and includes a dining range of casual dining options. The menuthat separate the chefs from the footpath precinct situated around a large water layout is similar as well, although at Hatch &so passers-by can see the action on the feature. Everything from gourmet burgers to Co there is a slight Middle Eastern edge toiron bark coal pit which takes pride of pancakes is available and, for two prominent some of the dishes. Some snacks and smallplace in the state-of-the-art kitchen. Casual Brisbane restaurateurs, it’s a place to open plates like marinated eggplant with puffedmeals like pulled pork with coleslaw and another venue. Chef Brad Jolly and his wife, grains, agrodolce and sheep’s milk yoghurtKimberley Red beef burgers are available Angelica, have Alchemy on the river in the is punchy and delicious, a side of wood firedat lunchtime but the rest of the menu rampsup the formality at entrees and starters, heart of the CBD. Formal and elegant with carrots with tahini yoghurt and watercressmany of which are designed to share. Crispy breathtaking views of the river, the Story Bridge is a great combination and spatchcockchicken wings are doused in hot sauce, and the Kangaroo Point Cliffs that are floodlit at char-grilled with freekah, currants, almonds,scallops are seared and served with roast night, Alchemy is a popular corporate bolt hole labna and a tangy pomegranate dressingpork, artichoke, pickles and edamame and as well as location for event, weddings and the are stand out dishes. Hatch also offersmushrooms have been tossed in truffle oil like. Now they have The Palm’s Bar and Grill, share plates and you will need a few friendsand fashioned into arancini balls. There’s a colourfully casual venue where the lines to help out with the 1kg prime rib with hotsome fragrant smoke trapped under a glass between inside and outside are deliberately mustard and red wine jus or the slow cookedcloche, which also features duck two ways. blurred. Much more casual than Alchemy, The lamb shoulder that literally falls off the bone,Some smoked breast and some crispy leg Palm’s offers an extensive menu designed for doused in lemon and garlic braising jus.make for spectacular eating especially sharing, grazing or just snacking between trips Garden City Shopping Centre, Upper Mtwhen paired with celeriac remoulade to the shops. They’ve installed a Josper Grill Gravatt; phone (07) 3420 4784.and heart of palm. There’s plenty of meat and that’s where the king prawns, spiced withoptions that are cooked in the pit - rare Above: Oysters at The Palms Bar and Grill.breed or Berkshire pork, Garrison’s Farmdorper lamb and Kimberley Red beef insteaks from 250g to 1kg. Grilled MoretonBay bugs with prawns, scallops, calamariand lemon sauce are popular as is theJames Squire beer battered fish and chips.The Charming Squire is a collaborationbetween the James Squire Brewery andthe Mantle Group, which also own venuessuch as the Jimmy’s on the Mall and the Pigand Whistle. 3/133 Grey St, South Brisbane;phone (07) 3077 7254.104 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINMelbourne’s love affair with craft beer has of-house of the 60-seat restaurant to do vintage with us, so there’s a truebecome a serious relationship. We can’t which has a separate bar area of connection to what we sell”. A smallseem to get enough of beers made locally about 40 seats. The light, bright dining menu offers cheese and charcuterieand internationally on small scales from room has been designed and built boards to share in the 35-seat spaceboutique brewers. The last few months by the team, with the tall white walls designed by Zenta and Megumi Tanaka,has also seen some restaurant owners holding enormous windows where the of Cibi in Collingwood, and it’s a verygrowing their businesses to interesting natural light contrasts the dark-wood welcoming and easy space to visit ifparts of the city. floors and furniture. And the menu by you’re driving through or plan to stay in Michelin-trained Athenian chef Yiannis the region for a night or two. The Grace A recent trip to the Greek island of Crete Kasidokostas has a stylish, modern Burn Wine Room is open Thursday andgave inspiration to Angie Giannakodakis take on regional Cretan food, with slow- Sunday 11am-7pm and Friday andand Guy Holder, the pair behind Carlton’s cooked meats and seasonal vegetables. Saturday 11am-9pm. 11A Green St,Epocha restaurant, to open a Cretan- The wine bar welcomes casual drop-ins Healesville; phone (03) 5962 3704.inspired venue in the heart of the and serves relaxed contemporary mezzeeastern suburb of Camberwell called such as pickled octopus, crunchy bites Rumble Coffee Roastery opened lastElyros. Giannakodakis and Holder have of fried tarama, cured kingfish and pork week in the inner-western suburb ofgone into business with a third partner, loin dotted with capers. It’s here that Kensington. Joe Molloy, Matt HamptonDisa Dimitrakakis, who manages front- there’s a more leisurely pace of dining, and Stan Bicknell, three Melbourne- with a la carte and tasting menus from based, Kiwi-born baristas, want to “make chef Kasidokostas. 871 Burke Rd, specialty coffee more accessible”, says Camberwell; phone (03) 9882 8877. Molloy. They are selling coffee beans, roasted on the premises, to wholesale The boys behind Fitzroy restaurant and retail markets, as well as offering Huxtable and the rapidly multiplying courses in professional barista training, Huxtaburger brand have brought how to make good coffee at home their burgers to the student zone of and weekly cupping sessions for the Melbourne’s inner-north of Carlton. The public. 8 Thompson St, Kensington; three business partners Daniel Wilson, phone (03) 9376 9146. Jeff Wong and Dante Ruaine, opened a pop-up in October at the Curtin Back to our beer obsession, Melbourne Hotel on Lygon St. It will be there “for has just seen a new venue almost the at least six months, with an option for size of a football field open in South long-term”, says Wilson, and to keep Wharf by the CBD. The Munich Brauhaus our burger obsession sated they’ve has a capacity for 1100 people and added a new burger to the menu. Filled has already seen chicken dances and with “Southern-fried chicken, slaw and Oktoberfest mayhem in the last few jalapeno mayonnaise,” says Wilson, it’s months after it opened in late August. known as the Clair Burger and is named Owned by the Urban Purveyor Group, after the matriarch of the Huxtable family, its experience in beer houses goes back from the ’80s comedy series The Cosby to 1976 in Sydney and since then it has Show. Clair joins other members of the opened Bavarian Bier Cafe venues in Huxtable family on the menu, including nine locations, and Melbourne is its Denise (“the hot one”, with jalapenos) new target. The Bavarian beers include and the Rudy, which is the burger Furstenberg, exclusive to the venue, sized for kids. 29 Lygon St, Carlton; alongside names such as Hacker- phone (03) 9663 6350. Pschorr Hefe Weissbier. There’s a brew, crafted in Melbourne, called Kellerbier Yarra Valley winemaker Mac Forbes made to Bavarian brewing guidelines. has opened a wine bar in Healesville in The menu maintains the Bavarian bent, a former skateboard shop. The Grace with house-made sausage, schnitzel and Burn Wine Room, named after the creek roast pork knuckle alongside terrines, that runs through the township, is a rillettes, mash and sauerkraut. 45 South platform for Forbes to sell his wines by Wharf Promenade, South Wharf; phone flights, by-the-glass and by the bottle, (03) 9645 8335. and the wines of friends, “who we have done vintage with or who have come Left: Delicious Elyros offerings. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 105

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGThe smart crowd has returned to the of Kemp’s signature dishes such as gnocchi natural and biodynamic wines, soju andCharing Cross Hotel. A pub has filled with chestnuts, cauliflower, peas and plum wine and OB beer before committingthe Carrington Rd crossroads location pecorino and salad of albacore tuna, pickled to food choices. Ben Sears and Eunsince 1857 when ex-con William Newland fennel, English cucumbers and mint have Hee Ann, both ex-Claude’s, are workingfounded a watering hole two years before made the move, too. There’s a traditional the stoves. A triumvirate that adds up tothe surrounding suburb of Waverley even roast meat menu on Sundays. “This is not some of the finest Korean food in Sydney.had a name. During the 1930s, the Charo about overworked, fussy cuisine; it’s about Polished concrete is also a decor focus inwas given a smart Art Deco makeover to feeling at home with a menu that’s easy to this first floor restaurant with a balcony andmatch its rival - The Robin Hood Hotel - understand and enjoying food with your views across Redfern Park. Moon Park’sacross the road as the premiere hotel of the family,” says Kemp. A sophisticated group cash-in-hand dishes are share plates - bigarea. As the decades passed, the Charing of rellies, of course. The sort who appreciate and small - from zucchini pancake andCross Hotel became just another pub until entrees like lime cured scallops, avocado, chopped mussels to Dokbeokki, light-asowner/operator Warren Livingstone rode coriander, chilli and grape tomatoes, risotto rice cakes with a crunchy peanut crust. There’s also a $65 per person banquetto the rescue. Following an expensive of house salt cod, creme fraiche, leek menu if you want to leave decisions toand classy refit, the landmark venue now and chives with poached hen’s egg and the chefs. Classic Korean fare with a twistboasts a swish public bar that cues in with carpaccio of ocean trout. such as bulgogi - marinated grilled beefthe coastal lifestyle of nearby Bronte and - served as a hamburger with kimchi areClovelly beaches, and a 60-cover dining There’s a gourmet version of fish and a standout. As is the barbeque duck withroom helmed by Matt Kemp. Kemp is one chips in the mains line-up, priced from onions, chestnuts and persimmon and theof the original Brit pack who revolutionised $22 for the famed gnocchi to $38 for charcoal stained Spanish mackerel. MoonSydney CBD dining at Banc. Like Jeremy grilled rib eye, Bordelaise butter and thrice Park, Level 1, 34b, Redfern St, Redfern;Strode of Bistrode, he balances classical cooked fries. The spanner crab, cuttlefish, phone (02) 9690 0111.French training with a passion for English courgette and chilli pasta tasted fang-freshfood. Kemp built up a devoted fan base at but the braised shoulder of lamb nicoise, There’s no questioning Steve Hodges’Balzac and Montpellier Eating House rocket pesto and fregola was real feed- cred when it comes to seafood. A lengthyand his pulling power was evident from the the-man-meat stuff. Armed with several pedigree of choosing and cooking the fishopening week of the Charing Cross dining spoons, we tackled the rhubarb crumble at the Pier Rose Bay and the original Fishroom in late August. We thought the bar and Kemp’s lavender-scented buttermilk Face in Darlinghurst has truly earned himand restaurant space was packed on the panna cotta. Both were guaranteed to the sobriquet of guru. Divided into twoThursday night we popped in but our waiter prompt a return visit. The staff were fun parts - the casual Fish Face upfront (fishsaid it was a pretty quiet night. Nearly all and courteous, and the wine list is just and chips, sushi, daily specials) - and Fishthe seats at the marble-topped, corrugated what you would expect from a French- Face Dining (atrium, Eames chairs, crispAmerican oak bar were filled, as was the 7m, trained chef who is also as passionate tablecloths) out back, Double Bay now haspowder blue leather Chesterfield bench. The about Aussie wines. The Charing Cross one of the best seafood dining destinationswhite polished concrete floor and airy glass Hotel, 81 Carrington Rd, Waverley; phone in town. Young Turk chef Josh Niland isceiling in the dining room did nothing to (02) 9389 3093. a revelation in the kitchen. There’s onlyabsorb the noise but who cares. The food did five listings in each menu category plusthe talking. Livingstone wants locals to drop When I heard that Ned Brooks of wine the daily specials. We enjoyed openersby a couple of times a week rather than save wholesalers, Brooks & Amos, was a part of Jerusalem artichoke soup, grilledup for a big night out, so value is key, Many owner of Moon Park, a visit was definitely scallops and sunflower seed and prawn on the cards. It’s worth the time to sift ravioli, green shallots and shellfish ginger through the drinks list first, which features dressing. The ocean trout in filo pastry with mushrooms, leek and sorrel sauce was silky yet subtly bitter. As was the blue eye trevalla with potato scales, fresh ricotta, kale and verjuice. Desserts are simple - creme brulee - or sensual - smoked vanilla meringue, grilled nectarine and nectarine fool. There are meat options but there’s little point in visiting this temple of seafood to be contrary. Fish Face Dining, 346, New South Head Rd, Double Bay; phone (02) 9328 9533. Above: Smart dining at Charing Cross Hotel.106 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINSAdelaide’s restaurant scene is suddenly with up to 40 different hams on display. These city’s landmark former bank buildings, onrunning hot with a series of high profile are available as 30g portions or as tasting possibly the most prominent corner siterestaurant openings, with more to come “flights”, each with three hams. Although in the CBD. It’s claimed to be the mostbefore the end of the year. Connelly stresses this isn’t a grill restaurant lavish of all in Jamie Oliver’s restaurant as such, the kitchen features a wood fired group, now totaling some 30 establishments One of the most anticipated was the grill as well as a wood fired oven, and while worldwide and the fourth in Australia. Theopening of Sean’s Kitchen, the latest venture there is a steak or two on the menu the large dining space provides many options,by Sydney-based chef Sean Connolly, in a strong focus this time is on South Australia’s from lounge style casual to sit up at the bar,space that’s part of, but quite separate to, seafood, making it one of the few dedicated big tables and banquette booths, while thethe Adelaide Casino complex in the Adelaide seafood restaurants in Adelaide. Top of the former bank vaults in the basement haveRailway Station. This is a very grand space list is a seafood platter for two, featuring been transformed into the most securethat’s seen a number of restaurants and Spencer Gulf Kinkawooka mussels, local toilets ever. The menu and wine list arewell-qualified chefs come and go, but this oysters and Scapai king crabs, while at the comfortingly familiar for anyone who’s evertime they really mean business after a very other end of the spectrum you’ll find a lobster dined at a Jamie’s - mostly fairly simple andimpressive multi-million-dollar transformation. roll with creme fraiche, softshell crab sliders straightforward Italian inspired dishes that areYorkshire-born Connelly, whose award- with wasabi mayo and grilled crab toast. well presented. Open for lunch and dinnerwinning My Family Feast cookbook and Other seafood dishes to look for are steamed seven days, 2 King William St, Adelaide;television show gave him celebrity status, pippies with jamon and chilli, grilled Spencer phone (08) 7109 5000.is no stranger to taking on casino-based Gulf prawns with garlic butter and steamedrestaurants, having already opened a grill snapper with Tokyo turnips and a soy broth. With the demise of the Grange restaurantrestaurant at Skycity Auckland with a reputed The days when you could get a pie floater at the Adelaide Hilton the way was open for$4 million budget. He didn’t have quite that at one of Adelaide’s famed pie carts are that other iconic South Australian wine, Hill ofmuch to spend this time, although he says it Grace, to lend its name to a new restaurant well gone, but here Connelly has a bit of fun that’s part of the redeveloped Adelaidewasn’t far off, and with a massive $400,000 with a rather special duck pie floater, served Oval complex, interestingly in the charge ofMoltini stove in the kitchen, only the second in pea puree with a smidgeon of foie gras. former Hilton executive chef Dennis Leslie.in South Australia after Magill Estate, it’s clear And he reckons his fried free-range chicken He has incorporated influences from hisno expense has been spared. It’s big, with a rivals that cooked by the fried chicken king of Filipino heritage and some native Australianvariety of seating options for 120 customers Harlem in New York, Charles Gabriel. Open ingredients into an innovative menu, within the main dining room, with another 40 for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days, feature dishes such as sweet-cured tocinoupstairs in a brilliantly set up smaller dining Station Rd, Adelaide; phone (08) 8232 6792. pork with candied red cabbage and brusselroom with an ornate, curved ceiling, and a sprout and broccolini salad, adobo porkprivate room for 12 - plus a separate bar Even more hyped than the opening of belly (cooked in soy, vinegar and garlic) witharea. A feature at mezzanine level is what Sean’s Kitchen was the long-awaited opening muntries and quandongs, or inasal chickenConnelly describes as a ham “museum” - a of Jamie’s Italian, again featuring an (marinated in lime and spices, then grilled)glass-fronted, controlled temperature space enormously costly renovation of one of the with mushrooms and chicken liver sauce. The standard of both Leslie’s cooking and waiting staff are very high indeed, placing the Hill of Grace Restaurant among Adelaide’s small band of fine dining restaurants. The food is exceptionally wine friendly, with an extensive wine list and a feature display of the world’s only complete set of Hill of Grace wines, dating from 1958 to the most recent vintage. Despite its seemingly remote location high in the Audi Stadium Club at Adelaide Oval, the restaurant is surprisingly easy to reach via an under-oval car park on the oval’s eastern side, with a lift to the third floor - and a great view over the oval. Open for lunch Friday, dinner Tuesday-Saturday, Audi Stadium Club, Adelaide Oval, King William St, Adelaide; phone (08) 8205 4777. Above: Sean’s Kitchen Interior. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 107

hong konggrapevineIVY NGFor seasoned business travellers to For a gregarious alternative, head for The +852 2522 2148.Hong Kong, it is now possible to dine Bellbrook Bistro Oz by Laris, namesake A more wine-savvy Chinese option isand entertain beyond the confines of of David Laris’s hometown in Australia.five-star hotels. The last few years has Crayons on the table, blackboards with Duddell’s, which gives the impression ofseen an influx of talented young chefs, daily specialties and lots of table bites being nestled inside a modern Chinesehighly qualified and well-travelled, seeking to share. A must-have is the unusual art gallery. Start the evening with a glassan adventure in the burgeoning local watermelon salad, the juicy fruit packed of fizz (Ruinart R at $HK180/$A26 a glass),restaurant scene, the progeny of wine-duty into a 2.5cm high round, topped with feta accompanied by deep-fried fish skinelimination and a renewed interest in high cheese, mint, olives, pomegranate and crisps, in the stylish bar upstairs. It hasquality food less the pomp from a more walnut. Do not miss the moreish twisties a good wine-by-the-glass selection, fromfood-savvy generation. (potato crisps twisted around a long pole, $HK95 to $HK150/$A14 - $A22 per glass, flavoured with parmesan or truffle salt), and a pour double that at China Tang. The I recently visited Nur Restaurant, twice smoky eggplant and burrata salad, black wine list offers reasonable price pointswithin a week. It is the vision of chef pork Scotch egg with horseradish and to top dollar bottles, including a 1970Nurdin Topham, a qualified nutritional creme fraiche and sticky date pudding. Chateau Petrus ($HK29,000/$A4200). Dotherapist, that his eponymous restaurant Corkage is $HK150/$A22 a bottle. Second not expect a bargain corkage charge here.delivers nourishing gastronomy, based floor, 77 Wyndham St, Central Hong Kong; The Peking duck is a highlight, deftly slicedon fine ingredients sourced as much as phone +852 2530 1600. to leave only a trace of fat underneathpossible locally and responsibly, and the crispy skin, wrapped in the steamedprepared with culinary artistic skills. Chef For Chinese fine dining, try China wrapper with the usual condiments. OtherNurdin spent 10 years refining his art in the Tang, sister restaurant to the one in the signature dishes include barbecued porkkitchen of Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir Aux Dorchester Hotel, London. No expense and crispy salt-baked chicken. If you comeQuat’ Saisons, followed by an internship has been spared to reproduce art deco for lunch, don’t forget to order the steamedat Copenhagen’s Noma. The decor at splendour - retro ’30s Shanghai, complete mushroom dumplings with black truffle,Nur resonates their food philosophy in with embroidered upholstery, such British prawn dumplings with crab coral andfocusing on simplicity, lightness and eccentric artefacts as antique clocks, and baked abalone and chicken pastry. Levelfreshness. The large, open kitchen is a elaborate chandeliers. For extra privacy, three, 1 Duddell St, Central Hong Kong;centrepiece of the dining room and the there are six private rooms that sit five to phone +852 2525 9191.terrace doubles as the herbal garden. 12 people. An array of Chinese cuisines isGuests choose from two menus: Light served, using only top ingredients. Highly For a touch of the real local scene, head($HK788 per head/$A114) and Feast recommended are Berkshire pork slices for Sang Kee in Wanchai for possibly the($HK988/$A143). The evening at Nur stir-fried with pepper and black bean sauce, best sweet and sour pork in town, salt-started with a platter of amuse-bouches barbecued pork made with Kurobuta pork baked chicken, salt and pepper deep-fried- beetroot taco with watercress emulsion, belly, with fat and meat melting in your squid, and lotus root and pork patties. Theydehydrated glazed cumin-spiced baby mouth, with a slightly charred edge, and sometimes serve the white sugar steamedcarrot and a nashi pear and cucumber the lightly fried giant prawns, in a mild sponge cake, to compare with China Tang’sassemble. A first course of variously wasabi sauce, just to get your taste buds darker version. A bit cheek-by-jowl, butcoloured heirloom tomatoes and basil- tingling without the eyes watering. For the food is as original as it gets and yourlaced tomato water, epitomised simplicity something substantial, order the braised wallet does not feel so light when you leave.and intensity. The only “heavy” dish was e-fu noodles with scampi or fried rice (Corkage is only $HK50/$A7 a bottle.)the poached Taiyouran egg on a bed of with abalone. Finish with the heavenly 107-115 Hennessy Rd, Wanchai; phonemixed grains, with shiitake mushroom and muscovado sugar steamed sponge cake +852 2575 2239.Chinese flowering chive, served with warm (the traditional version is made with whitesourdough bread and mushroom butter. rice and white sugar), moist and springy, Above: Dining Room at Duddell’s Hong Kong.For a truly “light” experience, replace the with a caramelised flavour. The wine list isroasted Mayura Wagyu skirt in the last extensive but the by-the-glass selectioncourse with beetroot, while keeping the was a little inadequate on the evening Iblack garlic puree. The Feast menu added visited. Only two white wines were availablethree dishes, with an upgraded cut of by the glass - a Napa Valley chardonnaybeef. For me, the Light menu is perfectly and an Italian white blend (trebbiano/adequate, unless you are totally famished. malvasia) at $HK180/$A26 per glass (andThe corkage charge at $HK500/$A72 per an ungenerous pour). Corkage was notbottle is slightly aggressive. Third floor, unreasonable given the elaborate interior1 Lyndhurst Tce, Central Hong Kong; at $HK400/$A58 a bottle. Fourth floor, 15phone +852 2871 9993. Queen’s Rd, Central Hong Kong; phone108 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

•201 5 NASAA GANICOWYFIENTAEHRE • TIFIED ORCER Opportunity for certified organic wines from all regions ofAustralia to be judged by Winestate’s expert panel of judges. The judging will occur early in 2015. Results will be featured in a special report in the July/August 2015 issue of Winestate Magazine. The event is open to all certified organic wines (by any accredited certificationorganization). Only positive recommended wines will be published. Top scoring wines arealso entered automatically in the Winestate Wine of the Year finals in September 2015! To enter please contact [email protected] and request a submission form, or download at www.winestate.com.au and click on “submit my wines”. Presented byWINESTATE

bookwormsCHARLES GENTSPIRIT OF THE SWAN – THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO SLIDERS:180 YEARS OF WINEMAKING SOUTH AFRICAN WINES: MINI BURGERSIN THE SWAN VALLEY TERROIR AND TRAVEL (2ND EDITION) By David CowieBy Michael Zekulich New Holland PublishingSwan Valley & Regional Winemakers By Elmari Swart and Izak Smit RRP $19.95Association Cheviot PublishingRRP $45 RRP $59.95Swan Valley wines are often overshadowed This is an introduction to South African wine The advent of the slider - the Lilliputian-by the youthful, glamour labels grown further that uses both photographs and text to sized burger - has become more ofto the south, but in its fascinating history showcase the country’s diverse and evolving an epidemic than a mere trend. In thisthe Swan has something no other region in wine scene (and stunning scenery). Cleanly breezy if slight (112-page) cookbook,Western Australia can touch. designed and highly informative, the book David Cowie presents a selection of starts out with a potted history of the country’s recipes aimed at putting the means of This beautifully produced book, written with grape growing and winemaking, which goes production in the hands of the homeobvious affection by Michael Zekulich and back to the 18th century. It is only in recent entertainer, starting from the bread up.illustrated with luminous modern photographs years that South Africa’s industry has emerged Beginning with a range of recipesas well as atmospheric black-and-whites, is a free of trade sanctions and the dead hand of for variants on the bun, including atribute to the Swan, its wines and its people. centralised control, and in terms of philosophy, gluten-free model, Cowie then heads markets and wine styles it remains very much into a riot of fillings, ranging from the Peppered with anecdotes - frontignac made a work in progress. Despite this, or perhaps standard beef-and-cheese to the morewith a mangle, and floods that saw vines because of it, the book conveys a strong adventurous, gourmet types (pork belly;picked from a dinghy- the book introduces sense of vitality and optimism. bacon-wrapped scallops) and then onthe Swan’s pioneers and more recent heroes. to a set of vegetarian options. ThereSome, like the visionary Jack Mann of The Essential Guide offers a rundown of are even a few dessert sliders, thoughHoughton’s, are well known, but we meet the soils and climatic conditions that make to me the prospect of a chocolate icemany others, including the region’s earliest up South African terroir before converting cream burger, even in miniature, doesn’tproponent of the grape, a Mauritian named itself into a winery guide. By breaking down appeal. The book, which illustratesAdrien d’Esspiessis. the major regions into a system of smaller every recipe with a highly appetising “pockets”, each with a coloured map, the photograph, wraps up with a section on It was the Dalmatian invasion - the arrival book provides a snappy itinerary for the sauces and some tasty-looking takes onof families of Croatian migrants in the early visitor, providing practical information on side dishes.20th century - that would help transform the flagship wines, varieties cultivated, openingculinary habits of steak-and-chips Perth, and hours and even GPS co-ordinates. The Although I have personally devouredalso put an indelible stamp on the Swan. From book finishes with a general educational several flotillas of sliders, I’m not reallyits initial reputation - “early Swan Valley wines section on wine consumption pitched at convinced the little critters warrant awere often condemned as bombo or plonk” the relative novice. cookbook to themselves. But should- the book traces the Valley’s evolution at the you be seeking instruction on turninghands of talented contemporary winemakers Clearly intended for those imminently out Cajun chicken, bacon and avocadosuch as John Kosovich. commencing a crawl of South Africa’s ciabatta sliders in serried ranks, this wineries, the book also makes a handy book is for you. Like McLaren Vale in South Australia, the primer for readers stuck in their chairsSwan has recently been protected from at home.creeping suburban subdivision by legislation.It’s a survival well worth celebrating.110 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example,Wines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more we will have a winemaker judge from thatprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other region because that person knows the localclass being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the style. We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstanding High Silverprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent Silver 18.5 - 20 98 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the HHHH Very Goodwines blind and assign a score without 18 - 18.4 96 - 97 17 - 17.9 94 - 95reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 92 - 93compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 90 - 91they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 111

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN CLARENDON HILLS 1999 $70 2001 $80 1957 $12,000 2009 $200  WINES 2002 $80 2010 $280 Astralis Shiraz 2000 $65 2003 $80  1958 $4,100 2004 $90 1994 $200 2001 $65 2005 $75 1959 $2,000 Bin 60A 1995 $200 2002 $85 2006 $70 1960 $1,500 1996 $250  2003 $65 2007 $85 1961 $1,600 1962 $4,000 BASS PHILLIP 1997 $200 2004 $75 Hill of Grace 2008 $70 1962 $1,600 2004 $550 Premium Pinot Noir 1998 $260  1980 $280  2009 $75 1999 $260 1981 $220 2010 $70 1990 $75 2000 $270 2005 $65 1982 $250  1963 $1,200  2006 $400 1991 $90 2001 $290 2006 $70 1983 $220 1964 $1,200  1992 $95 2002 $300 2007 $65 1984 $220 1965 $600  1993 $80 2003 $200  1985 $280 1994 $110 2004 $350 1986 $330 1995 $80 2005 $230 2008 $55 1987 $250  1966 $1,000  1996 $110 2006 $250 2009 $70 1988 $330  1967 $600 1997 $140 2007 Not Released 1989 $280  1968 $600  1998 $140 2008 Not Released GIACONDA 1990 $460 1969 $560 Stonewell Shiraz 1999 $120 2009 Not Released 1991 $400 1990 $90 2000 $120 2010 $200 Chardonnay 1992 $350  1970 $400 1991 $70 2001 $160 2011 Not Released 1990 $110 1993 $300  1971 $720 2002 $145 2012 $210 1991 $60 1994 $360  1972 $400 1992 $60 2003 $110 1995 $320  1993 $65 2004 $140 1992 $85 1996 $480 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1994 $55 2005 $80 CLONAKILLA 1997 $300  Cab Sauv 2007 $130 Shiraz Viognier 1993 $90 1998 $420 1990 $130 1974 $480  1995 $55 2008 $85 1990 $65 1994 $100 1999 $380 1975 $460  2009 $85 1993 $65 1995 $85 2001 $380  1991 $150 1976 $850  1996 $70 2010 $90 1994 $85 2002 $420 1997 $55 2011 $100 1995 $65 1996 $140 2004 $380 1992 $120 1977 $450  1998 $85 2005 $390  1993 $100  1997 $95 2006 $180  1978 $380  1998 $110  2007 Not Released 1994 $100 1979 $400 1999 $75 2008 $540 2000 $70 1999 $120 1995 $130 1980 $380  2001 $65 Armagh Shiraz 1996 $120 2000 $110 1990 $200 1997 $100 1981 $400 2002 $70 2001 $110 1991 $120  1982 $380 2002 $160 1992 $140  1998 $130  1983 $480  2003 $55 1993 $110 2004 $85 2004 $190 1994 $130 1999 $130 1984 $350 2005 $60 1995 $130 2000 $130 BINDI 1996 $100 2005 $120 1996 $190  2001 $130 1985 $380 2006 $60 1997 $130 2006 $110  1997 $140  1986 $520Block 5 Pinot Noir 1998 $150 2007 $120  1998 $250  2002 $120  1987 $350 2007 $55 1999 $180  2008 $601997 $80 1999 $55 2008 $130  2000 $120 2003 $90 1988 $380 1998 $95 2001 $140 2000 $90 2009 Not Released 2002 $200 2004 $100 1989 $3601999 Not Released 2001 $130 2004 $160  2005 $1002000 $150 2010 $130 2005 $120 2006 $70 1990 $540 2002 $130 2011 $130 2006 $160  1991 $4602001 $120 2007 $952002 $110 2003 $100  2012 $130 2008 $160 2007 $95  1992 $380 2003 $85 2004 $120 Chardonnay 2008 $90 1993 $380  Art Series 2009 $852004 $110 2005 $110 2010 $80 1994 $380 Basket Press 2006 $120  1990 $60  1995 $3702005 $140 1991 $60 Shiraz 2007 $190  1992 $70 2011 $90 1996 $500 1990 $1502006 $100 1993 $652007 $120 2008 $90 1994 $85 1997 $380  1991 $1402008 $120 2009 $95 1995 $100 1998 $5802009 $90 2010 $90  1996 $65 MOUNT MARY 1999 $400 1992 $952010 $95 2011 $75  Meshach 1997 $90 1993 $110 2011 $85 2012 $70 1998 $70 Quintet 2000 $420 1994 $95 1990 $100 1999 $75 1990 $150  1991 $85 2000 $75 2001 $380 1992 $80 1991 $120 2002 $450 1995 $100  1996 $180 2012 $95 1993 $70 1992 $110 2003 $420 1997 $90 1993 $95  1994 $90 2004 $460 1995 $70 1994 $110 1998 $190BROKENWOOD 1996 $90 2005 $430 1999 $110 1997 Not Released 1995 $100 2006 $520Graveyard Shiraz 1998 $110 1996 $120 2000 $90 1999 $90 2007 $420 2001 $951990 $90 2000 $70 1997 $120 2008 $620 1991 $110 2001 $110 2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 2002 $95 1998 $160 2003 $1001992 Not Released 2003 $60 1999 $1301993 $80 1999 $95 2004 $70 2004 $110  2000 $65 2005 $65 2000 $1201994 $80 2006 $65 2001 $110 2005 $110  2001 $110  2007 Not Released 2006 $1101995 $85  2002 $90 2008 $85 2002 $130 GREENOCK CREEK1996 $95 2003 $90 2003 $110 2007 $85  Roennfeldt Rd1997 $85 2004 $110  Shiraz 2004 $140 Bin 707 2008 $85  1990 $250 1998 $140  2005 $85 2005 $120 1991 $250  2009 $85  1992 $210 1999 $90 2006 $70 2006 $120 1993 $220  2010 $100  1994 $220 2000 $140  2007 $100 2007 $90 1995 Not Released THREE RIVERS/2001 $85 1996 $230  2008 $95  2008 $95 1997 $190 Chris Ringland 1998 $2602002 $75 2009 $95  2009 Not Released 1999 $200 Wines Shiraz2003 $80 2000 Not Released2004 $85 2010 $100  2010 $85 2001 $210  1990 $520  2011 $120 2002 $220  2011 $75 2003 Not Released2005 $85 2004 $200 1991 $690 1995 $280 2005 $230  1992 $6002006 $110 ELDERTON 1996 $260 2006 $220  1993 $7002007 $90 Command Shiraz 1997 $160 2007 $200 2008 Not Released 1990 $90 1998 $350 2008 $210  1994 $6502009 $85  1999 $200 1995 $450 2000 $220 1991 Not Released 2001 $250  Bin 95 Grange 1996 $830 1992 $100 2002 $320  1951 $46,000 1993 $65 2003 $210 1952 $17,000 1997 Not Released 2004 $210 1953 $14,000 1998 $850 1994 $85  2005 $230 1954 $11,000  1999 $600 2006 $260 1955 $4,000 1995 $75 1956 $14,000 2000 $450 1996 $95 1997 $70 2001 $800 2002 $800 1998 $95 2003 $500 112 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $3,2001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $850 1994 $120 1992 $2701995 $110 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1998 $160  1996 $2601999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $4502000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $7002001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $8502002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $4202003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $5202004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $4502005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $8502006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $5602008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $6002009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $7502010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $9002011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $2101878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $2601879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $2101880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $3001881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380 1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $3001887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $2501901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $3201930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $1051933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $1251939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $1801944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $7001947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280 Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $2001982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $8001983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $5601990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $4201992 $240 1994 $5501993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $3601995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $4201996 $370  1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $4201999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $2002003 $190 2003 $2942004 $170 Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 113 BRA034_POC_AgedRiesling2010_WineState_59x270_Ad_8F/A0.1in/1d4d 21:06 PM

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts far include a bottle of 1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-St-Vivant LANGTON’S FINE WINE LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS achieving $1534 and a bottle of 2003 AUCTIONS INTERIM 4TH QUARTER MARKET Chateau Lafite-Rothschild attaining $1269. Weekly Fine Wine Auctions closing REPORT 2014, by ANDREA PRITZKER Cult Californian Syrah Sine Qua Non B20 every Tuesday at 7pm. was also highly sought after achieving December 2 It’s difficult to believe we are in our final $287 per bottle. December 9 quarter of the year, with Christmas just December 16 around the corner.The quarter had a strong With 2014 drawing to a close, it’s an December 23 start, with a flurry of special themed auctions opportune time to look back and reflect December 30 yielding solid sales results. This, coupled on the year that has been. This year has January 6 with the start of the build-up in demand been one of momentous change and January 13 for Christmas, has seen increased buyer growth at Langton’s. We held the most January 20 participation and higher clearance rates. number of auctions ever in a calendar January 27 year and offered the largest volume of fine The Penfolds Red Wine clinics held in wine at auction in our 26-year history. In Visit www.langtons.com.au for full winter around the country prompted an April we launched our new website with details of upcoming special event influx of Penfolds Grange into the market, significant enhancements to the look and auctions to be held on Wednesdays as vendors took advantage of buoyant feel of the auction platform, and we also and Thursdays throughout prices. Highlights of the quarter included entered the retail space with an online December 2014 and January 2015. a bottle of 1961 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange store. If that wasn’t enough, May saw achieving $2829 and a bottle of the 1962 the highly successful launch of Langton’s ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS vintage attaining $1914. A magnum of Classification of AustralianWineVI. Finally, December 2 (closes November 14) 1990 Penfolds Bin 95 also performed well, in October we welcomed first growth selling for $1956. Chateau Margaux, on their first visit to GRAYSONLINE Australia, with a series of dinners featuring Daily wine auctions, starting from Other blue-chip Australian auction staples four of the finest vintages of Chateau $9 per case, with a 30-day money also performed well, including a bottle of Margaux in the past 25 years. back guarantee. 2006 Henschke Hill of Grace attaining $486 Fine wine auctions end Monday- and a lot of six 2012 Wendouree Shiraz All of this activity underscores that this Tuesday-Thursday each week. selling for $1035. is a golden era for Fine Wine in Australia. Port and spirit auctions end on For collectors, connoisseurs and those just Wednesdays. Strong demand for imported wines entering the market, there has never been Monthly Single Malt sales. continues to grow with imports now a better time to buy FineWine. At Langton’s making up over 50 per cent of auction there is still much to do and plenty of CRACKA WINES catalogues. Highlights of the quarter so improvements and enhancements to Live wine auctions every day at 8pm. make, however with even more auctions and events already planned for the coming STERLING WINE AUCTIONS year, it appears the momentum of 2014 Auctions run every two weeks, looks set to flow well into the new year. back-to-back, finishing on Wednesday evening. From all of us at Langton’s we wish you a very safe and happy holiday season. (All dates subject to change without notice) Visit www.langtons.com.au for full details of our upcoming events and special themed auctions. All prices include buyer’s premium. CRACKA WINES SPECIAL REPORT, by ANDREW GRAHAM With 2014 now firmly in the rear-view mirror, it’s a particularly good time to be reflecting on just how the year panned out. 2014 saw massive expansion at Cracka, with the business growing a few extra arms locally and expanding overseas via a growing network of channels. All that means busy times and more wine than ever!114 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

42 DEGREES SOUTH A. RETIEF A.T. RICHARDSON ALKOOMI ALTA AMBERLEY AMELIA PARK ANGASPLAINS ANGOVE ANGUS THE BULL ANNIE’S LANE ARAMIS ARMCHAIR CRITIC ARRIVO ARROWFIELDARTWINE ASCELLA PURE ASHBROOK ASHTON HILLS B3 BADGER’S BROOK BAILLIEU BALGOWNIEBALLAST STONE BANROCK STATION BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE BARWANG BARWICK BATHEBATTELY BATTLE OF BOSWORTH BAY OF FIRES BELGRAVIA BELLARMINE BEN POTTS BERESFORDBERTON BEST’S BIRD IN HAND BISCAY BLACKBILLY BLEASDALE BLUE PYRENEES BLUE TONGUEBOLD HEARTS BOTOBOLAR BOWEN ESTATE BRAND’S LAIRA BREAM CREEK BREATHING SPACEBRESS BRINDABELLA HILLS BROKENWOOD BROOKLAND VALLEY BROTHERS IN ARMS BROWNBROTHERS BROWNS OF PADTHAWAY BUNKERS BUTLER CREST BY FARR BYRNE CALEDONIAAUSTRALIS CAMPBELLS CANONBAH BRIDGE CAPE BARREN CAPE BERNIER CAPE JAFFA CAPEMENTELLE CAPE NATURALISTE CAPEL SOUND CAPEL VALE CAPERCAILLIE CASTELLI ESTATECASTLE ROCK ESTATE CATCH BILLY CATCHING THIEVES CHAIN OF PONDS CHALICE BRIDGE CHALKHILL CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD CHAPEL HILL CHARLES CIMICKY CHRISMONT CLARENDON HILLSCLAYMORE CLEMENS HILL CLOS CLARE CLOVER HILL COAL VALLEY COLDSTREAM HILLS COOBARACOOKS LOT CORAL SEA CORIOLE CORK CUTTERS CULLEN CUMULUS CURLEWIS CUTTAWAY HILLD’ARENBERG DAL ZOTTO DALWHINNIE DANDELION DAOSA DAVID HOOK DE BORTOLI DE IULIISDEAKIN DEEP WOODS DELATITE DERWENT DESTINATIONS DEVIATION ROAD DEVIL’S LAIRDEXTER DIAMOND VALLEY DOGRIDGE DOMAIN DAY DOMAINE A DOMAINE CHANDON DOMAINESTATIARRA DOWIE DOOLE DUNSBOROUGH HILLS DUTSCHKE EAGLE VALE EDENMAE EDWARDSELDERTON ELDRIDGE ESTATE ELMSLIE ENOOMAH BORE EPEROSA EVANS & TATE EYRE CREEKFABER VINEYARD FAIRBANK FARR RISING FEATHERTOP FERNGROVE FIFTH LEG FIRST DROPFIVE GEESE FLAMETREE FLINTS OF COONAWARRA FORESTER ESTATE FORMBY & ADAMS FOURSISTERS FOUR WINDS FRAMINGHAM FRASER GALLOP FREYCINET FROGMORE CREEK FUDDLINGCUP GALLI ESTATE GARDNERS GROUND GARFISH GEMTREE GEOFF HARDY GEOFF MERRILL GEOFFWEAVER GIPSIE JACK GLAETZER GLAETZER-DIXON FAMILY GLEN ELDON GLENGUIN ESTATEGOATY HILL GORDON HILLS GOUNDREY GRANT BURGE GROSSET GUMPARA HANDPICKED HAPPSSearchAND THREE HILLS HARDYS HAREWOOD ESTATE HARVEY RIVER BRIDGE ESTATE HEARTLANDHEATHCOTE ESTATE HEATHCOTE WINERY HEGGIES HENKELL HENLEY HILL HENRY’S DRIVEHENSCHKE HESKETH HEWITSON HIGHER PLANE HILL SMITH HITHER & YON HOLM OAKHOUGHTON HOUSE OF ARRAS HOWLING WOLVES HUGH HAMILTON HUGO INGOLDBY IRON POTBAY IRVINE J & J VINEYARDS JACK RUSSELL JAMES ESTATE JANSZ JASPER HILL JIM BARRY JOHNDUVAL JONES ROAD JOSEF CHROMY JUNIPER ESTATE KAESLER KAKABA KANGARILLA ROADAUSTRALIA’SKARRIBINDI KATNOOK KELLERMEISTER KILIKANOON KILLARA ESTATE KILLERBY KINGSTONESTATE KINLOCH KNAPPSTEIN KNEE DEEP KOONOWLA KOOYONG KREGLINGER KURTZ FAMILYLA LINEA LA PLEIADE LA VIE LACACHE LAKE BREEZE LAKE HOUSE LAMBLOCH LANGMEIL LARKHILL LARRY CHERUBINO LAST HORIZON LEASINGHAM LECONFIELD LEEUWIN LENGS & COOTERLEO BURING LERIDA ESTATE LIGHT’S VIEW LINDEMANS LOGAN LONELY VINEYARD LONGVIEWLOOSE LEAF MANDALAY ROAD MARCHAND & BURCH MARGAN MASSENA MASSONI MATISONLARGESTMAXIMUS MAXWELL MCWILLIAM’S MEEREA PARK MERUM ESTATE MESH MIHI CREEK MILESFROM NOWHERE MITCHELL MITCHELTON MITOLO MOJO MOLLYDOOKER MONTROSE MOONBARKESTATE MOONDAH BROOK MOOTHI ESTATE MOPPITY MORGAN PENDARI MOSS WOOD MOTORHEADMOUNT CAMEL RIDGE MOUNT HORROCKS MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN MOUNT PLEASANT MOUNTADAMMR MICK MT BUFF MUNARI NASHWAUK NIGHT HARVEST NINTH ISLAND NORFOLK RISE NUGANWINE SITE!O’LEARY WALKER OAKOVER OAKRIDGE OATLEY OCEAN EIGHT OCEAN GROVE ODDFELLOWSOLIVER’S TARANGA OMNI OXFORD LANDING PADTHAWAY ESTATE PANORAMA PARADIGM HILLPARINGA ESTATE PARKER COONAWARRA PARRI ESTATE PARTISAN PAUL CONTI PAXTON PEELESTATE PENFOLDS PENLEY PENNA LANE PENNY’S HILL PEPPER TREE PEPPERJACK PETALUMAPETER LEHMANN PEWSEY VALE PHILIP SHAW PICARDY PICARUS PIERRO PIG IN THE HOUSE PIKE& JOYCE PIKES PIMPERNEL PIPERS BROOK PIRIE PIRRAMIMMA PIZZINI PLANTAGENET PORTPHILLIP ESTATE PRANCING HORSE PREVELI PRIMO PRINTHIE PROTERO PROVENANCE PUNTROAD PUPPETEER PURE CLARE PURE VISION PURPLE HANDS PYRENEES RIDGE QUARISA QUATTROMANO RADFORD RALPH FOWLER RAVEN PARK RAVENSWORTH RED HILL 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wine investment & collecting Speaking of wine, it was very much a supported by a new wave of nero d’avola, Shiraz - all of which are on auction atcase of the big two varietals - sauvignon fiano and vermentino coming into under $80 per bottle. If you have just ablanc and shiraz - continuing to dominate production, too. wee bit more to spend, you can purchasesales at Cracka.That’s not the whole story magnums of 2008 Grant Burge Meshach,however, as we’ve seen continued growth Finally, do keep an eye on the Cracka 2002 Howard Park Cabernet and Mountin a pinot noir direction and a pleasing rise website in early 2015 for information on Mary Quintet from the acclaimed vintagesin appeal for chardonnay (though largely the release of the new Cracka app. of 2004, 2006 and 2008. All can be hadin the premium end). for around the $200 mark. We have been Cracka Wines conduct live unreserved offering these wines out with great Simultaneously, the pinot gris/grigio wine auctions every day with more than success and there are more to comegloss is appearing to fade (not helped by 4050 wines currently available for auction with the summer months. Wines of thisso many bad wines) with viognier also or to buy now. For more information, calibre will add a great deal of cheer tofalling off the radar. In varietal red stakes, visit www.crackawines.com.au or email your Christmas this year. As the latemerlot’s popularity continues to wane; yet [email protected] (all quoted Len Evans said “You have only so manygrenache, nebbiolo and mourvedre earn prices are per bottle with no buyer’s bottles in your life, never drink a bad one”.new friends every week. premium applicable). At graysonline we strive to bring you the best cellared wines for the best value, If 2014 was to be defined by any wine GRAYSONLINE assured by our customers controlling thetrend, it would simply be the continuing SEPTEMBER 2014 REVIEW, price at auction.embrace of value Spanish, Italian and by GREG FITZSIMMONSFrench imports.While the dollar continues Throughout the winter period Penfoldsto stay reasonably high against the Euro this There have been many wine investment wines held firm, with pricing once againsituation isn’t going to change, particularly schemes over the years. Some have exceeding expectations. A bottle of 1973with a plethora of clean, smartly packaged been without substance and fallen by Grange in immaculate condition attractedwines heading the charge. the wayside - and graysonline recently a final bid of $909, another record for this took delivery of a mammoth parcel of vintage. Not to be outdone, a 1966 Grange In auction terms the most popular wines exciting wines from such an investment. It sold for a massive $1109. Magnums ofremain the classics: Penfolds Grange and included some of Australia’s iconic brands Grange however have taken a dip inthe Bin range, plus Rockford Basket Press such as d’Arenberg, Cullen, Katnook, value, as supply outstrips demand. AShiraz. In the lead-up to Christmas that Mount Mary, Grant Burge and James 2001 and 2003 sold for just under $800also includes more champagne with the Irvine - to name but a few. each. Other Penfolds wines held firmDumangin range of grower champagne as savvy customers sought prodigiousproving particularly popular, too. I have sampled many of these great drinking wines, of which Penfolds has wines and my value pick of the bunch produced many over the years, including Looking into 2015, our official Cracka includes the 2006 Irvine Grand Merlot, the Bin 389 ’Baby Grange‘. Both supplycrystal ball suggests that tempranillo 2006 Rusden Black Guts Shiraz, 2005will be the flavour of the new year, as Katnook Odyssey and 2006 Standishmore smart local examples are released, Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What116 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

wine investment & collectingand pricing have been solid for Bin 389 bottle of highly acclaimed Sullivans Cove is still outstripping supply for Penfoldsand we have sold good volumes in the Rare Small Batch French Oak Single Cask premiums, with stocks of Henschkeoriginal straight case. Cases of the 1998 Whisky, which achieved a stellar $604 premiums, mid-priced Australian redsrealize an average $534, $478 for the 1996 at hammer. A Johnnie Walker Excelsior and vintage-dated fortifieds also inand $10-$20 more for each single bottle of 1947 reached a staggering $1174 and a short supply. Apart from those issues,the same vintage. Direct from Penfolds, Bruichladdich Octomore Edition went out September’s auction was quite strong,graysonline acquired a healthy volume at $654. The coming months promise a with better than expected clearances.of 2013 Penfolds Bin 311 Tumbarumba strong market and many more scotchChardonnay and 2011 Penfolds Bin 28 bargains for the connoisseur. Top hammer price for September wentKalimna Shiraz - each selling for less to a single bottle of 1972 Domaine de lathan retail. graysonline continues to provoke Romanee Conti Grand Cru LaTache which imitation as a significant supply source fetched $1299, while a 1972 Penfolds The canny buyer was able to hunt down and leading purveyor to the wine Dalwood Claret went 25 per centsome great imbibing bargains including a community. We guarantee consistent above the top end of the price guides.vertical 12 pack of 1989 - 2000 Yalumba bargains and wonderful mature wines, There was also good buyer interest inThe Signature for $499, or just over both Australian and international, along some of Australia’s more solid auction$41 per bottle. In the $30-$40 range with the finest single malts and rums. performers, with good clearanceswas 2001 Grosset Watervale Riesling, Be assured that as supply grows steadily reported for the large offerings of2002 TarraWarra Estate Pinot Noir, 2003 throughout the remainder of 2014 and Elderton Command, Burge Meshach,Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Shiraz, 2002 St into 2015, you can confidently make Majella Cabernet, Lehmann StonewellHallett Faith Shiraz, 1998 SA Pepper graysonline your first preference in the and Wynns Riddoch from the 1990s.Tree Reserve Merlot, 2000 Tatachilla fine wine auction market. Interest there didn’t detract buyers fromCabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale the other perennial auction favourites on- and so many more - all from a pristine For more information visit www. offer, including Rockford Basket Presscellar sold by the case. In addition there graysonline.com.au (prices listed don’t from the ’90s and late 2000s, Henschkewas a plethora of impressive French include buyers’ premium). Keyneton and Edelstone (also from thewine including 2012 Domaine Gibault 2000s) and a large chunk of WendoureeSauvignon, 2010 Chateau La Font Du ODDBINS WINE AUCTION varietals and blends from the ’90s andLoup Cotes-du-Rhone and 2011 Andre SEPTEMBER PREMIUM AUCTION early 2000s.Brunel Cuvee Reserve Cotes du Rhone, REPORT, by GRAHAM WRIGHTall delivered in straight or mixed packs, for Pleasingly, buyers have returned inthe perfect dinner table accompaniment. As the drought continues, I hear a tune strength to mid-priced Greenock Creek come into my head: Where has all the such as Alice and Apricot Block, Noon We put together a monthly single malt Penfolds gone? At the time of writing (in Reserve Cabernet and Shiraz from thesale and the results were outstanding.The early September, at the conclusion of our early 2000s, Grosset Gaia and Polishoffering included one of Australia’s best, a first of two auctions this month), demand Hill Riesling, E&E Black Pepper Shiraz Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 117

A Sample ofSOUTH AFRICA at Hyatt Regency Perth118 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Discover the flavours of South Africa The promotion, running fromthis January with traditional dishes at 12 – 25 January, will coincideHyatt Regency Perth’s award winning with Wines of South Africa, arestaurant, Cafe. wine tasting event by Winestate Magazine which will also on at theExecutive Sous Chef Shaneil Dinna hotel on 16 January.from Hyatt Regency Johannesburgwill join the team of chefs at Hyatt Wines to sample will coverRegency Perth to showcase some everything from chenin blancsof the unique cooking methods and with soft vanilla notes and zestyserve up a feast of flavoursome chardonnays to some full bodieddishes such as smoked springbok reds from South Africa’s highlywith neertije compote, Durban style regarded Stellenbosch region.curries, a selection of boerewors andan array of biltong. A variety of wines from South Africa will also be available at Cafe duringIn addition to this, guests can also the promotional period, givingenjoy different stews from the potiie guests the opportunity to enjoy them(a traditional cast iron pot used with the traditional flavours of Southover an open flame) and smoor vis African cuisine.– smoked fish served with potato,beans and spices. For more information or to make a reservation at Cafe call 08 9225 1204.There’ll be plenty of vegetarianoptions as well, with pumpkin fritters, For information about the Wines ofsweet potatos with roasted peanuts South Africa wine tasting event emailand vegetarian curries. [email protected]: 08 9225 1234 - Email: [email protected] - www.perth.regency.hyatt.com - facebook.com/perth.regency.hyatt Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 119

wine investment & collecting(especially the 2001 vintage) and 1998 spot was a magnum of 1989 Penfolds Bin Classic Australian vintage dated portsBest’s Bin 0 Shiraz. Wynns Black Label 95 Grange Shiraz (cellar scuffed capsule, dominated the Top Ten Hammer Prices,Cabernet from the 2000s also continued original timber case) which achieved Fortified Wines & Spirits List with a bottleits six-month growth in clearances. A $750. The best performing Hill of Grace of 1940 Penfolds Grandfather Tawny Portcouple of surprises did bob up in early was a bottle of 1998 Henschke Hill of (cellar stained label) topping this table atSeptember as buyers took up the offer of Grace Eden Valley Shiraz (original timber $163. Congratulations go to the buyer who2006 De Lisio Krystina Shiraz, a vertical case), in fourth position with a hammer paid $150 for the ornamental decanterof Parker First Growth, 2000 Schubert price of $403. Take the “Big Two” out of of Jim Beam - JB Turner locomotiveEstate Goose-yard and, with relief, a the equation and magnums come to the (boxed). There’s still life in the old Beamlarge amount of Tim Adams Aberfeldy fore, along with some heavy hitting shiraz. collectibles yet!from 1993 through to 2004. Heading up the Top Ten Non-Penfold/ Henschke Hammer Price List was a In terms of how far buyers were With Penfolds, a lack of supply of magnum of 1992 Grant Burge Meshach willing to go in their bidding, the Top TenGrange, especially from the 1970s and Barossa Valley Shiraz (minor cellar scuffed Australian Performers, Percent Above’80s, is starting to show, with offerings label) which fetched $177. In second and Top End of Guides List revealed strongfrom the ’90s, especially in timber cases, third positions were magnums of 2002 bidding for a number of relatively newkeenly bid on. Bins 28, 389 and 90A also Cullen Diana Madeline Margaret River vintage red table wines, but top honoursattracted our buyer’s attention. One last Cabernet Blend and 2004 d’Arenberg The went to the rarely seen 1972 Penfoldsword on Penfolds: buyers were also keen Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz (both in Dalwood Hermitage Claret (VHS, raisedon scruffy versions of Grange from the original timber cases )fetching $169 and cork) which fetched 25.7 per cent above1980s. I wonder why? $131 respectively. the top end of the guides. Buyers kept well within the limits when it came to the Demand for Australian vintage-dated With the Top Ten Hammer Prices, imported offerings, with the exception offortifieds has never been so strong but, ImportedWine List - another area lacking in a bottle of the relatively unknown 2010as mentioned earlier, supply is now a real quality supply - it was September’s overall Church Road Tom McDonald Hawkesissue. I have never seen such a dearth in Top Dollar drop (the aforementioned 1972 Bay Chardonnay, which went four perauction staples like Seppelt Para Liqueurs, Domaine de la Romanee Conti Grand Cru cent above the guides. Finally, the mostboth dated and numbered. Could this be La Tache) which popped in at Number spirited bidding among the Fortifieds wasan end of an era? One. This Top Ten also included a mix for a bottle of 1950 Penfolds Club Five of well-aged Bordeaux, notable Rhone Star Tawny Port (cellar stained, scuffed A review of Oddbins’ Top Ten Auction Valley reds and with some well-priced table) which went 23.1 per cent abovePerformance lists for September and, champagnes, including a boxed bottle the top end of guides.in terms of the Top Ten Hammer Prices, of Billecart Salmon Reserve ChampagneAustralian Wine, Grange still dominates, Brut NV which fetched $52, rounding For more information visit www.but the inclusion of three Hill of Grace out the list. oddbins.com.au. (All prices quoted areofferings can be seen as the end of the exclusive of buyer’s premium).long slump in Hill of Grace sales. In topWINNER OF THE CANSTAR BLUEMOST SATISFIED CUSTOMERS AWARDFOR ONLINE LIQUOR STORESQuality wines at wholesale prices with all auctionssbtaacrktignugafrraonmtejeusatn$d9sppeeredcyasdee.liWveitrhy,aw3h0adt’asynmototnoeylove about wine at GraysOnline?cVuissittowmwewrs.garraeygsoivninligneu.scofimve and find out why our stars!120 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

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120 TASTED65 AWARDEDSAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDSA quite variable tasting, with wines ranging from neutral and Yealands Estate Paua Marlboroughfeatureless to complex, characterful wines worthy of dinner Land Made Series Sauvignon Blancdiscussion. At the cheaper end it is true that fresh is best, but don’t Marlborough 2014 HHH1/2dismiss two-year-old sauvignon blancs at a higher price that are just Sauvignon Blanc Rich concentration ofcoming into their own with more flavour than you expect! 2014 HHHH pungent citrus/melon Some good varietal varietal fruit onSAUVIGNON SAUVIGNON fruit here with a lifted both the nose and theBLANC BLANC 2014 pungent nose and nice long rich mouthfillingUNDER $15 $15 - $20 depth and weight of fruit palate. $19.99 on the long lingering Graham Norton’s9 TASTED 28 TASTED palate. $19.99 Own by Invivo Wairua Valley3 AWARDED 17 AWARDED Peter Yealands Marlborough Marlborough Sauvignon BlancSome pleasant good The judges found this Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHHvalue wines here. The to be a very good class 2014 HHH1/2 Pungent concentrationjudges commented overall for the price Great concentration and of candied fruit with anthat the sugar/acid with a range of styles. persistence of sweet herbaceous line and highbalance here was “The acid line was grassy and herbaceous acidity. $N/Agenerally quite good handled well, the varietal fruit. An aperitif Farmers Leapand not excessively residual sugar also, the style of wine. $15.99 NZ Random Shotsweet. There were only issue was young Black Cottage Padthawaya few green and tart light fruit and some Marlborough Sauvignon Blancwines and others lacking wineries over did the Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHHconcentration. CO2 level at bottling.” 2014 HHH1/2 Delicate pretty floral Good pungent varietal fragrances and goodDevils Creek Alpine River Farm Mission Estate punch to the nose and length and line ofValleys Sauvignon Marlborough Winery Marlborough lovely zesty herbal varietal flavours. $16Blanc 2014 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc flavours with a nice long Mount VernonDeveloping savoury 2014 HHHH 2014 HHHH crisp finish. $16.99 NZ Marlborougharomas with light touch Sweet lemon and melon A clean, bright varietal Sauvignon Blancof varietal notes and fragrances and well- with lovely balance 2014 HHHis tight and tart in the balanced palate with and concentration of Pleasant floral nose withmouth. $10 young, crisp varietal herbaceous candied fruit nice pungency and crispScarpantoni flavours showing good characters with some lively fruit-driven palate.McLaren Vale level of acidity. $17.99 nice pungency. $16.99 Lovely quaffer. $17.99Sauvignon Blanc Saint Clair Family Lost Buoy Gulf2014 HHH Estate Vicar’s View Adelaide HillsA classic lifted pungent/ Choice Marlborough Sauvignon Blancherbaceous nose and Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHHa minerally/herbal 2014 HHHH Pretty estery/candiedpalate. $13 Very flavoursome aromas and a light crisp wine with pungent palate with a dryingBeresford Beacon passionfruit aromas tannic finish. $18Hill South Australia and a bright honeydew, Rongopai WinesSauvignon Blanc melon and citrus palate Marlborough2013 HHH with a clean finish. Sauvignon BlancRich ripe tropical bouquet $19.50 NZ 2014 HHHand slightly warm, off-dry Smells of honeydewpalate that’s balanced melon with nice balanceand long. $11.90 of crisp dry citrus flavours. $18122 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Giesen Marlborough SAUVIGNON Ribbonwood Mission Estate Saint Clair FamilySauvignon Blanc BLANC Marlborough Winery Vineyard Estate Premium2014 HHH 2013 & OLDER Sauvignon Blanc Selection MarlboroughDelicate mineral touches $15 - $20 2013 HHH Marlborough Sauvignon Blancto the lemony nose and A creamy complexity Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHHH1/2pleasant light crisp citrus 16 TASTED of nutty melon aromas 2014 HHHH1/2 Nice minerally notes toflavours. $18.99 6 AWARDED and fresh bright palate Fabulous intensity of the pungent citrus noseWicks Estate with a good line of fruit. gooseberry-like aromas. and a palate showingAdelaide Hills Disappointing! “Many of $17.99 NZ Palate is rich and juicy excellent varietal flavourSauvignon Blanc these lacked freshness,” with upfront herbal persistence with very2014 HHH said the judges. “Quite Mills Reef Winery flavours showing some good acid balance andPretty floral fragrances a few were either Marlborough grip and texture with mineral depth. $21.50 NZwith similar characters ‘neutral’ or showed Sauvignon Blanc good level of acidity. Deep Woods Estateon the light attractive premature ageing.” 2013 HHH $20 NZ Margaret Rivervarietal palate. $19 Attractive tropical fruit Sauvignon BlancSaint Clair Family The Sisters nose and palate with 2014 HHHHEstate Vicar’s Marlborough some attractive age A pungent but pretty noseChoice Bright Sauvignon Blanc developing. $18 with slight funky notes.Light Marlborough 2013 HHHH The attractive palate hasSauvignon Blanc Pungent passionfruit-like Brancott Estate a creamy concentration,2014 HHH aromas with a palate Letter Series balance and length ofLean herbaceous nose brimming over with Marlborough flavours. $20and simple green fruit some very powerful Sauvignon Blanc Auntsfield Singlepalate with well-handled green gooseberry 2013 HHH Vineyard Southernresidual sugar. $19.50 NZ varietal flavours. $16.95 A nice lifted combination Valley MarlboroughLawson’s Dry of tropical and herbal Sauvignon BlancHills Marlborough Mother of Pearl fruit characters and nice 2014 HHHHSauvignon Blanc Wrattonbully crisp acidity. $18.99 Sweet lemon rind2014 HHH Coonawarra bouquet with a hint ofMelon pulp pungency to Sauvignon Blanc SAUVIGNON herbs. Great varietal citrusthe nose and powerful 2013 HHH1/2 BLANC 2014 persistence and length oncitrus flavours with a Delicate fresh perfumed $20 - $25 the palate with warmthtannic finish. $19.99 melon bouquet and and subtle grip. $24Matahiwi Estate well-balanced minerally 27 TASTEDWairarapa palate with a nice touch 17 AWARDEDSauvignon Blanc of tropics. $192014 HHH A strong class withA rich, soft and well- The Wine Society some good results andbalanced quaffer with Premium Selection lots of borderless wines.pleasant citrus-like fruit Marlborough “A lot of wineries arecharacters. $19.99 Sauvignon Blanc tip-toeing between the 2013 HHH sweaty, leesy coating Lovely green that reduces vibrancy gooseberry aromas and the pure pristine and complex herbal tight fruit dominant palate with light tropical styles,” said one judge. persistence. $15.99 JUDGESSimon Parker Greg Tilbrook Jane PaulSenior winemaker and Barossa based winemaking Freelance wine consultant,winery manager with consultant. Formerly senior winemaker and wineHaselgrove Wines. A winemaker Watson Wine educator. She is a lecturerKiwi, born in Gisborne, he Group. Former winemaker at in sensory evaluation andhas also been a “flying Wynns Coonawarra winery fermentation technologywinemaker” in France for for five years. Previously at Adelaide University andtwo vintages. Previous winemaker at Amberley a course trainer for thepositions were at Estate, Margaret River for six Advanced Wine AssessmentPirramimma and Buronga years. Completed a vintage in Course. Regular national andHill wineries. Languedoc, France. regional show judge. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 123

GWD_Winestate_Dec_2014_90x270mm_The Grail Of Lisa Shiraz 2011_HR.pdf 1 9/10/2014 9:47 am Cable Bay Awatere Sileni Cellar Valley Sauvignon Selection Hawke’s Blanc 2014 HHH1/2 Bay Sauvignon Attractive nettle-like Blanc 2014 HHH characters on the nose Pungent and citrussy and a straightforward aromas with good herbal palate with lots of upfront sweet citrus flavour and crisp acid. $20 herbal flavours. $20 Babich Marlborough Sileni Cellar Sauvignon Blanc Selection 2014 HHH1/2 Marlborough A delicate floral nose Sauvignon Blanc and a soft creamy 2014 HHH citrussy palate with Pretty nose with lovely mouthcoating subtle floral touches. nutty flavours. $22 Ripe palate with nice Two Rivers combination of tropical/ Convergence herbal flavours. $20 Marlborough Wairua River Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc An attractive varietal. 2014 HHH Slight dustiness on Attractive pungency to the citrussy nose. the tropical nose and a Lengthy persistence of sweet fruit palate with a sweet melon and citrus hot finish. $20 flavours. $22 NZ Silver Fern Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHH A seamlessly integrated wine with good balance of flavours and nice herbal freshness. $20.99 Starborough Family Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHH Fresh and lively with dusty, earthy, citrus fragrances and young vibrant green fruit flavours. $21.99 Boston Bay The Cable Bay Great White Eyre Marlborough Peninsula Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2014 HHH 2014 HHH Delicate floral nose with An attractive simplicity a fresh herbal lift. Palate with subdued herbal/ is fresh, vibrant and very mineral elements tropical with a herbal and some alcohol end. $20 warmth. $22.90 Rapaura Hahndorf Hill Winery Springs Reserve Adelaide Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHH 2014 HHH A great, rich, soft Subdued aromas with varietal with attractive herbal notes and soft fruit and some subtle pungent citrus fruit oaky notes. $23 palate with a tannic finish. $20124 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

GWD_Winestate_Dec_2014_90x270mm_Limb Vineyards Barossa Shiraz 2013_HR.pdfAlkoomi Black Label Chestnut GroveFrankland River Estate ManjimupSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc2014 HHH 2013 HHHBright, fresh nose that Herbal nose with somehas both sweet and tropical notes and nuttysour aromas and austere creamy complexity onlemony flavours. $24 the herbal palate. $20SAUVIGNONBLANC2013 & OLDER$20 - $2514 TASTED8 AWARDEDA better class withmore complexity in thewinemaking.Giesen The Brothers Roaring Meg CentralMarlborough Otago SauvignonSauvignon Blanc Blanc 2013 HHH2013 HHHH1/2 Developed kiwi andIt’s all melon, tropics melon nose withand citrus with a herbal similar characters onlift. Intense aromas and the long well-balancedmasses of lovely varietal palate. $20flavours on the long Konrad Marlboroughwell-balanced palate Sauvignon Blancwith a herbal kick to the 2013 HHHfinish. $24.99 Clean, straightforwardKirrihill Wines varietal - pungent andVineyard Selection herbal with melon notesAdelaide Hills and still with plenty ofSauvignon Blanc punch. $20.702013 HHH1/2 Brangayne ofPretty florals on Orange Orangethe nose and silky Sauvignon Blancsmooth palate with 2013 HHHsweet tropical fruit Ripe, long and well-flavours with good acid balanced with somebackbone. $20 sweet/sour charactersBlind River Awatere and delicate floralRiver Marlborough notes. $22Sauvignon Blanc2013 HHH1/2Rich, long and balancedwith intense sweettropical fruit characterswith a slight greenedge and pungentnotes. $22.95 Ninth Island Northern Tasmania Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH A different style with glacé fruit notes to the herbal nose and spicy mouthfilling flavours. $22.50 Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 125

SAUVIGNON Sileni The Straits Symphony Hill Fermoy Estate SAUVIGNONBLANC $25+ Marlborough Wines Reserve Wilyabrup Margaret BLANC Sauvignon Blanc New England NSW River Sauvignon BLENDS23 TASTED 2013 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2013 HHH12 AWARDED Pretty floral/citrus 2014 HHH1/2 Slight smokiness to 2 TASTED aromas and sweet Light, lean and warm the funky nose. 2 AWARDEDAt this price bracket upfront lightly tropical with minerally citrus Lusciously rich in thewinemakers are trying to palate with good fragrances showing light mouth with upfront A small but consistentcreate more character; acid balance, slight herbal notes and flinty/ herbal flavours. $25 class of sauvignonsometimes they grippiness and alcohol herbal citrus flavours. $25 Mt. Difficulty blanc blends.succeed - sometimes warmth. $25 Saint Clair Family Bannockburnthey don’t. Yealands Estate Estate Pioneer Sauvignon Blanc Sandalford Estate Single Vineyard Block 3 43 degrees 2013 HHH Reserve MargaretLawson’s Dry Awatere Valley Marlborough Green herbs and cut River SauvignonHills Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc grass aromas with Blanc SemillonMarlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHH1/2 good flavour complexity 2014 HHHSauvignon Blanc 2013 HHHH Attractive tropical nose showing slight Mellow grassy bouquet2014 HHHH1/2 Pungent and funky with intense pungency earthiness. $27 and good line of acidMelon pungency to the bouquet with attractive and light herbal edge. Nepenthe Pinnacle to the slightly sweetvarietal nose and gentle nettle-like elements. Ripe soft tropical fruit Petraea Adelaide citrussy palate. $24.95tropical flavours that Vibrant well-balanced palate with subtle Hills Sauvignonare layered with palate with good fruit acidity. $26.90 NZ Blanc 2013 HHH Richard Hamiltonpersistent sweet citrus concentration. $26 Babich Family Lovely varietal fruit McLaren Valefruit characters with Bird in Hand Estates Headwaters purity - all citrus and Sauvignon Blancsome dusty herbal Adelaide Hills Organic melons with attractive Semillon 2013 HHHelements. $28.99 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough aged characters Soft, pleasant and very 2014 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc developing. $32 drinkable with lemonBream Creek Pretty and fresh on the 2014 HHH Giesen The August rind aromas and mellowTasmania Sauvignon nose with tropical hints. A funky, pungent and 1888 Marlborough citrus flavours. $15.50Blanc 2013 HHHH1/2 Creamy and nutty in herbal varietal with an Sauvignon BlancNettle vibrancy to the the mouth with sweet estery lift and slightly 2011 HHHmelon nose with flinty herbal flavours. $25 warming alcohol. $27 Lovely buttery toastymineral elements. Long development on theseamlessly integrated nose and palate yet stillpalate - soft in the has freshness. $43.99mouth - with flinty cutgrass flavours andlingering acidity. $26126 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014



SPONSORS AND PARTNERS Queensland Wine Awards 2014Winestate The HighlightsLongfellows Insurance BrokersCospak ANDREW CORRIGAN MWDalton HospitalityPlatinum Productions This wine competition was judged in September by a teamEde’s Salon of interstate judges. In its 32nd year, it is clear that Queensland wines have come a long way since the beginning. This yearAWARD WINNERS there were 237 wines entered across 22 classes. The judgingWINE AWARDS 2014 was carried out using national standards – and hence a medal awarded here has the same indication of quality as a medal inChampion Mainstream Variety White Wine any big wine show in Australia.Golden Grove Estate Chardonnay 2013 The Champion Mainstream Variety White was awarded to Golden Grove Estate Chardonnay 2013; the ChampionChampion Alternative Variety White Wine Mainstream Red to Lucas Estate “The McKinlay” Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. The Best Alternative Variety was Golden GroveNo trophy awarded Vintage Reserve Durif 2012. It was a great year for Golden Grove with Ray Costanzo being awarded Winemaker of theChampion Mainstream Variety Red Wine Year and his father Sam becoming Viticulturist of the Year (A well-established principle is that great wine can only be madeLucas Estate from great grapes).The McKinlay Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 The Samuel Basset Award for an individual contribution was wonChampion Alternative Variety Red Wine by Mike Hayes, the winemaker at Symphony Hill. Mike gave up school as a boy in order to go to work in vineyards and wineries.Golden Grove Estate His passion took him to wine regions around the world and he alsoVintage Grand Reserve Durif 2012 attained a Churchill Scholarship to study wine overseas.Champion Sparkling Wine At wine shows generally, all wines that attain a certain standard win a medal – and hence there can be several gold, silver and(sponsored by Ede’s Salon) bronze medals in any class. It is the best of the gold medalsNo trophy awarded that then wins the Trophy. Multiple gold and silver medals in a particular class reveal a strong sector of wine. Hence theChampion Fortified Wine shiraz class was very strong with gold medals being awarded to Jester Hill Touchstone Shiraz 2012, Golden Grove GrandNo trophy awarded Reserve Shiraz 2012 and silver medals to Just Red Nikki’s Vineyard 2013, Ridgemill Shiraz Viognier 2012 and Twisted GumChampion Wine $20 or under 2012. Chardonnay was the strongest white class with gold to Golden Grove and silver to Lucas Estate and Sirromet “Wild”Mason Wines Verdelho 2014 Chardonnay. There was interest in alternative varieties with awards to Verdelho’s by Mason Wines and Symphony Hill, Clovely EstateOutstanding Wine of Provenance Semillon, Golden Grove Vermentino, Banca Ridge Marsanne, Preston Peak Gewurztraminer and Golden Grove Malbec.Clovely Estate SemillonChampion Wine of ShowGolden Grove EstateVintage Grand Reserve Durif 2012Queensland Viticulturist of the YearSam CostanzoQueensland Winemaker of the YearRay CostanzoQueensland Cellar Door of the YearSirromet WinesQueensland Winery of the Year(sponsored by Longfellows)Golden Grove EstateSamuel Bassett Award 2014Mike HayesSUPPORTER AWARDS 2014Most Supportive RetailerCraft Wine Store, Red HillMost Supportive RestaurantAria, BrisbaneMost Supportive Social Media CommentatorSteve Leszczynski, QwineMost Supportive Press CommentatorDes Houghton, Courier MailMost Supportive Community EventToowoomba Carnival of Flowers128 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Symphony Hill Wines Golden Grove EstateSymphony Hill’s name has become a regular name for success in Golden Grove is a fairy tale story where a hard working Italianthe Queensland wine awards arena but more recently is performing pioneering family has moved through three generations andsuccessfully at national awards. A national trophy was awarded for its become a power house of nationally known wine quality.2014 Gewurztraminer at the 2014 Royal Melbourne Wine Awards for Golden Grove is situated in the Ballandean area of the Granitethe Best Single Varietal White Wine. This is the fourth time it has been belt, about 20 minutes’ drive south of Stanthorpe. Like manya finalist for a trophy at the Royal Melbourne Show. The 2013 vintage properties in the region, Italian migrants established theGewurztraminer was awarded the trophy at the Royal Brisbane Wine property. Mario and Nita Costanzo, growing grapes for the freshShow with chief judge PJ Charteris remarking that Symphony Hill fruit market, first settled here in 1946. As the wine industry in theWines has set a new benchmark for gewurztraminer in Australia. region emerged in the 1980’s classic wine grape varieties wereSymphony Hill was established in 1999 on the Eukey Rd, east of the planted. These included shiraz, merlot, cabernet, semillon,Ballandean area, on higher altitude country. The property is about chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and black and white muscat.20 minutes’ drive south of Stanthorpe. Bob and Jill MacPherson with The property was then taken over by son Sam and his wifetheir son Ewen and his wife Elissa made the big change, selling up Grace who continued planting and making wine. In 1991in Brisbane and establishing themselves permanently in the region. cellar doors were opened for wine tourism, tasting and sales.Ewen had caught the wine enthusiasm bug and proceeded to study Currently Golden Grove Estate consists of 40 acres of wineWine Science-Viticulture at Charles Sturt University in Wagga. The grapes, quite a substantial size for a Queensland winery.winery was then built in 2003 and the cellar door opened in 2004. Sam and Grace’s eldest son Raymond graduated from Charles The vineyards consist of 5 hectares consisting of shiraz, Sturt University Wagga Wagga, with a Bachelor of Applied Sciencecabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, verdelho, viognier and albarino (wine science). He then worked outside the family business(alvarinho). Originally over 40 different varieties were established for seven years gaining valuable experience. He returnedin a “research” block in 2006. Ewen explains that “we studied home to take over the winemaking role and the sophisticatedviticulturally how these vines performed and we worked out how “polish” on Golden Grove wines is now obvious to see.to plant the most successful varieties and clones. I dug 20 soil Ray Costanzo exhibited early success in wine shows withpits around our property pre-planting to work out information classic varieties and fortified wines. His curiousity was evidentsuch as readily available water values in the different areas and – becoming an associate judge at various shows including thefrom that planted varieties accordingly. Vines with high vigour are large Brisbane Show as well as attending various seminars intrellised on the Smart Dyson system and those with lower vigour Brisbane. He and his father took a keen interest in alternativeto the VSP system.” varieties and planted barbera, tempranillo, mourvedre, malbec, durif, vermentino and nero d’avola. All are available Another ingredient in the successful team has been Symphony for sale as estate wines. The Granite Belt has a programmeHill’s winemaker Mike Hayes and assistant winemaker, Tom that focusses on alternative varieties called “Strange Birds”Battle. Mike Hayes was awarded a Churchill Fellowship in 2013 and Golden Grove’s examples are a key highlight of this flock.to research alternative grape varieties in Europe. Mike explainsthat his main quest was “how to add more texture to white Left: Owners Ewen and Elissa Macpherson with their daughter whom they ad-wines\". At the Queensland Wine Awards this year The Samuel opted from China. Every year they name a red wine in her honour as the DanyingBasset Award for an individual contribution was also won by wine where 10% sales are donated to charities supporting Asian orphans. TheMike. Seems like Symphony Hill Wines are continuing to make orphanage named her Danying which means Red Singing Bird.wonderful music together. Above: Winemaker Ray Costanzo enjoying a glass of Golden Grove wine. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 129

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINQUEENSLAND SUCCESS STORY WITCHES FALLS is one of the success stories of the Queensland wine industry with its wines made at the Tamborine Mountain Winery from fruit grown on the Granite Belt, the state’s premium vineyard region. Witches Falls owner and chief winemaker Jon Heslop said he was thrilled by the different wine styles and varieties he has been able to produce. Cellar door tastings cost $6 per person for a flight of six wines. Picnic rugs are available so guests can enjoy a glass of wine in the attractive gardens. The tasting facility is at 79 Main Western Rd, North Tamborine; phone (07) 5545 2609 or visit www.witchesfalls.com.au. The cellar door is open Monday to Friday 10am-4pm and weekend 10am-5pm.CULINARY SKILLS TO menu with matched wines is highly regarded, STAR IS REBORNMATCH WINES the BYO evenings are designed to encourage guests to dust off the wine from their own SEAFOOD lovers are heading to the CairnsTHE exclusive Palazzo Versace hotel on the cellars and pair them with a tailored four- Marlin Marina in increasing numbers with theGold Coast has the perfect solution for any course menu. launch of Prawn Star, the city’s first floatingwine aficionado who lacks the culinary skills to seafood market selling a selection of ready-to-do his or her prized wines justice. Diners are “When a wine reaches its ideal drinking age, eat cooked prawns, raw prawns, mud crabs,invited to bring premium vintage wines to the there is no point leaving it buriedat theback of fish and various seafoods straight off the boat.hotel’s signature restaurant, Vanitas, for chef the cellar,” Fiske says. “Speaking with guests, Owner Danny Moore said the concept hasJames Fiske to create a bespoke menu for I discovered that many felt their cooking skills been three years in the making. “We set abouttheir iconic cellared wines. The offer is only would not do their premium wines justice, finding the perfect trawler which would givevalid on Thursday nights and costs $110 so they stayed in the cellar, year after year, locals and tourists a close up experience intoper person. To ensure the “perfect match” which is a real shame. Great wine should be the workings of these classic examples of ourdiners must book two days in advance and enjoyed with great food!” Palazzo Versace Queensland fishing heritage. Formerly knownadvise which wines they will be bringing. has 200 rooms and suites, 72 neighbouring as the Lewis Venture and recently renamedThe new concept was developed following condominiums and a private 65-m lagoon. Prawn Star, she is a classic timber “sharpie”conversations between the chef and hotel The hotel is home to three award-winning style trawler that was built by Norman Wrightsguests. While Vanitas boasts its own extensive restaurants; Vanitas, Vie and Il Barocco. and Sons in Brisbane using a 1960s design,wine list and the restaurant’s degustation To book phone (07) 5509 8000 or email and for many years was regarded among [email protected]. the local Brisbane fishermen as the “Pride of Moreton Bay”. “When I discovered her she was derelict and hadn’t been moved for three years. After extensive refurbishment and modification on the slip in Cabbage Tree creek near Brisbane Airport we steamed her back to Cairns - a journey that was not without its fair share of adventures!” Prawn Star Cairns is located on E Finger, Marlin Marina Cairns (next to Salt House) and is open seven days a week from 10am to 6pm. For more information phone 0456 421 172.130 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

travelbriefsISLAND INVITATION BUILDING A SOLID TRYP-branded hotel in the South Pacific REPUTATION on the site of the old Brisbane BuffaloONE&ONLY Hayman Island, Australia’s iconic Club site. The 65-room boutique hotelprivate island resort in the Whitsundays, THE QUEENSLAND wine industry is joins TRYP siblings in Madrid, Barcelona,recently reopened after being closed for an constantly growing, with a remarkable Paris, Lisbon and New York. The hotel is$80 million dollar refurbishment. The Great eight different regions home to producers home to UP, Brisbane’s newest rooftopBarrier Reef resort has been reborn as part of of different sizes and styles. First bar with a capacity for 240 peoplethe exclusive One&Only collection and offers established in the 1860s, wine growing cocktail style and Chur, a lobby-levelnewsuiteaccommodation,redesignedspaces has a long history in Queensland, but the restaurant. Chef Warren Turnbull willand restaurants, adult and family experiences. success of its wines is only now starting manage both venues and room rates“A new era has begun at this iconic Australian to be recognised. The major wine regions start from $299 a night. Located inresort as we introduce One&Only Hayman stretch from the Gold Coast Hinterland, the heart of the CBD on Queen StreetIsland to the world,” said Seng Huang Lee, through the Scenic Rim and out to the Mall, NEXT Hotel Brisbane is a $35executive chairman of resort owner Mulpha. Granite Belt, around the Darling Downs million top-to-toe redevelopment that“Thetransformationalrefurbishmentcombined and Toowoomba, and up to the South will see the former Chifley at Lennonswith One&Only’s innovation and commitment and North Burnett. Further north, in landmark transform into a 304-roomto delivering an extraordinary level of service Tropical North Queensland, fruit wines upscale hotel, equipped with a clubwill redefine luxury travel in Australia.” A new are generating increasing interest. lounge, executive studios for meetingspool wing with ground floor pool suites where and a rooftop pool that overlooksguests can step off their terrace straight into BRISBANE BUZZING the mall. The new hotel will caterthe water is a highlight, while other changes largely to business travellers and hasinclude a new lounge area around the adults- IT’S ALL go in the Queensland capital an opening rate of $179 per night.only pool with day beds and cabanas, plus a of Brisbane with new hotels, eateries Brisbane’s dining scene is also dishingnew beauty salon beside the health spa, and and bars cropping up at a fast rate. Two up a new menu of restaurants anda gym with personal trainers. In order to create new luxury hotels - NEXT and TRYP - bars headlined by blockbuster Britisha more private luxury experience, the number have both recently opened, coming on chef Jamie Oliver. Jamie’s Italian willof guest rooms has been reduced from 209 the back of five other accommodation be a 240-seater on Edward St, while pan-to 160 and replaced by more suites, villas openings in 2014, including the 18-storey Asian eatery Madame Wu offers viewsand penthouses. Restaurant options include Alpha Mosaic Hotel in Fortitude Valley in of the Brisbane River and the StoryFire, Amici and Bamboo, offering a range of June, the 68-room boutique Gambaro Bridge and features flavours fromcuisines. One&Only Resorts are set in some of Hotel in Caxton St in May, the 246-room China, Hong Kong, Korea, Japan andthemostbeautifullocalesintheworld,including Four Points by Sheraton in March, the Taiwan. Throw in new bars like Kwanthe Maldives, Mauritius, Dubai, the Bahamas, 81-storey Infinity Apartment and the 234 Brothers, The Fever Club, Dutch CourageLos Cabos, Mexico and Cape Town, South one- and two-bedroom M&A Apartments Officers’ Mess, The Twig and Berry andAfrica. New resorts are also planned for China, in Fortitude Valley, both of which opened Grape Therapy Wine, and Brisbane isMontenegro and Saudi Arabia. For details visit in January. Global hospitality giant very much buzzing. Grape Therapy,http://hayman.oneandonlyresorts.com/ Wyndham Worldwide launched the first on Adelaide Street in the city, is an old-fashioned underground bar run by local wine expert Darren Davis. Patrons can choose from a wide selection of both young and mature wines or book for a Boardroom Wine Tasting session for groups of 15 or more. Wines can be matched with a selection of cheeses and charcuterie plates. www.grapetherapy.com.au. Above: One & Only Hayman Island Exterior. Opposite page Top: Palazzo Versace from the air. Bottom: Palazzo Versace Restaurant, Vanitas. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 131

237 TASTED95 AWARDEDQUEENSLAND WINEAWARDS 2014A big tasting with the discerning judges sorting the Golden Grove Vermentino Heritage Estate Wineswheat from the chaff. There were great quality wines 2014 HHHH Marsanne 2013 HHHin each category offering complex fruit and winemaking Quite complex lemon and Nutty complex rich style withcomplexity. After the top few the results dropped steely flavours with notable nice display of fruit. “Will teamaway, yet still revealing sufficient numbers of nicely palate texture. A great wine up well with strong food flavourstuned lunch wines that would please most consumers. to be served with a variety of such as barbecued dishes,” foods. $26 observed the judges. $30SPARKLING Ballandean Estate Symphony Hill Wines Petit Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Manseng 2013 HHHH Heritage Estate Wines9 TASTED 2014 HHH Interesting ester aromas and Petite White 2013 HHH2 AWARDED A soft fresh and light style; gripping texture with bright Unusual aromas of dried “great for chilled drinking in freshness that follows through flowers. A nice dry style. $20The two medal winners were the hot weather,” thought the on the palate. $30quite nice however others were judges. $18 The Overflow Estate Normanby Viogniertoo watery or uninteresting to 1895 Sq Root White 2013 HHHwarrant an award. OTHER WHITE 2014 HHH1/2 A full-flavoured style, supported VARIETALS Spicy and edgy green herb with big strong flavoursSirromet Wines Signature aromas with a strong grippy rounding out the palate. $22Collection Pinot Noir 32 TASTED palate. $30Chardonnay 2008 HHHH 16 AWARDED Heritage Estate Wines Savina Lane ClassicoGood colour with lifted fruit Fiano 2014 HHH Fiano 2013 HHHaromas and a full dry palate. $35 A fun class to judge with great “Smells like the new straw A complex and rustic flavoured texture and flavour interest on from a stable,” thought the style both on the nose andSirromet Wines Signature the top wines. These alternative judges. A nice fresh and soft palate. $35Collection Pinot Noir varieties show great promise style. $30Chardonnay 2009 HHH for Qld wine in the future. Sirromet Wines Vineyard Sirromet Wines SignatureLovely blush pink hue. A nice Selection Pinot Gris Collection Viogniercommercial soft dry style. $35 Preston Peak Wines 2014 HHH 2011 HHH Gewurztraminer Interesting bronze colour, with Interesting complexity of wildDRY WHITE 2010 HHHHH nice lifted aromas leading to a ferment character on thisBLENDS Lovely bright fresh floral full-flavoured palate. $21 wine. $35 and herb aromas with delicate Whiskey Gully Betty’s5 TASTED fruit and crunchy acidity to Block White 2014 HHH SEMILLON2 AWARDED balance. $28 Fresh dry white with pleasant complexity. A good commercial 6 TASTEDWell-made clean wines for the Ballandean Estate quaffer. $20 2 AWARDEDtwo awarded, however the Messing About Fiano Girraween Estateothers were often watery. 2014 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc A good class with most wines Bright floral aromas with hints 2013 HHH being fresh and vibrant. SomeGolden Grove of peaches and citrus lead to a Herb and lemon pith aromas showed a lack of freshnessAccommodation Creek fresh zingy palate. $30 highlight this soft aromatic and some had green flavours.Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Banca Ridge Getaway style. $20 Whilst the blends were2014 HHHH Series Marsanne Golden Grove Sauvignon well made clean wines,Lifted lemon aromas in this 2014 HHHH Blanc 2013 HHH unfortunately they were oncefresh style, with very pure Nutty complex floral aroma and Lifted floral aromas and bright again often watery.character. Good cellaring good palate texture; “quite a hues on this fresh style.potential. $18 Rhone-like style,” thought the Very youthful and zingy in judges. $16 character. $20132 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Clovely Estate Left Field Ravens Croft Wines Golden Grove Chardonnay Golden Grove RoséSemillon 2010 HHHH Verdelho 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHHHH 2014 HHHGood colour with developed Aromatic tropical fruit with Lovely bright colour. Complex Pretty red fruits aroma. A verytoast and crème brulee aromas; firm acid and freshness. The aromas with lifted fruit and clean and pure style of rosé. $16lovely developed weight on the judges commented that there nicely balanced oak. Nice palatepalate. $20 is some bottle aged softness texture and freshness. “A Preston Peak Wines showing. $25 sophisticated style,” thought Wildflower RoséClovely Estate Left Field the judges. $26 2013 HHHSemillon 2013 HHH Banca Ridge Verdelho Nice red fruit and nutmegA delicate style with lovely 2014 HHH Sirromet Wines Le spiciness on both the nose andlemon sherbert aroma and a Good freshness with aromas Sauvage The Wild palate. $17nice mineral lemon palate. $20 of gooseberry and spicy Chardonnay 2013 HHHH elements with a moderate Melon and fruit salad aromas OTHER DRY REDVERDELHO palate weight. $16 with good oak handling on a VARIETALS fresh and lively palate. $8922 TASTED Heritage Estate Wines 32 TASTED9 AWARDED Verdelho 2014 HHH Lucas Estate Estate 10 AWARDED Made in a ripe tropical fruit Chardonnay 2009 HHHHA mixed class with the best style. “Quite developed colour Soft rich crème brulee aroma Mixed results with somewines showing exotic fresh and flavour in this wine,” with a rich palate. “A great fantastic wines, as well asflavours and balance. Many commented the judges. $25 complex style,” commented simple or faulty examples.wines were made without the judges. $35faults but were watery and too Robert Channon Wines Golden Grove Vintagealcoholic and too sweet. Long Block Verdelho Ballandean Estate Opera Grand Reserve Durif 2014 HHH Block Chardonnay 2012 HHHHHMason Wines Verdelho Floral and herb aromas on the 2013 HHH Lifted red berry and rich palate2014 HHHHH nose with a firm mineral dry Floral fruit aromas leading to a weight, a great example ofFresh tropical fruit aromas, very palate. $28 nice firm dry palate. $28 durif. $65aromatic with great, “drinkablesoftness,” commented the Robert Channon Wines Nirvana Estate Vineyard Golden Grove Vintagejudges. $19.50 Verdelho 2014 HHH Chardonnay 2013 HHH Grand Reserve Malbec Aromatic fresh pear bouquet Complex leesy flavours with 2012 HHHH1/2Symphony Hill Wines with bright fresh flavor on the nice rich palate softness. $13 Clean bright and leafy blackFamily Reserve Verdelho palate. $28 fruit style with a big generous2014 HHHH Ridgemill Estate WYP dense palate. $45Steely mineral acid but Sirromet Wines Vineyard Chardonnay 2013 HHHoverlaid with light fresh Selection Verdelho Complex “chablis” style Golden Grove Durifappealing tropical fruit. “A very 2014 HHH with steely power on the 2013 HHHelegant style,” according to Lifted tropical aromas with palate. A dry, lighter style of Attractive lifted red berry fruitthe judges. $25 medium palate weight and firm chardonnay. $35 adds to the jammy full palate. $30 mineral taste. $21 Sirromet Wines Signature Pyramids Road Wines Woongooroo Estate Collection Chardonnay Mourvedre 2013 HHH Verdelho 2014 HHH 2012 HHH White pepper spice aroma and Herbal aromas on the nose Showing its age with some full rich weight on the palate. $35 with a firm mineral acidic development but it still a nice palate. $20 complex dry style. $35 Ravens Croft Wines Petit Verdot 2013 HHH CHARDONNAY Sirromet Wines Le A leafy spicy style of wine, Sauvage The Wild quite firm and tannic on the 20 TASTED Chardonnay 2010 HHH palate. $35 8 AWARDED Toasty and quite developed but with some lovely soft rich Golden Grove Vintage A great class to judge with complexity. $89 Grand Reserve Nero the top wines being at a really D’Avola 2012 HHH great standard. The best wines ROSÉ Red berry spicy fruit style, quite in this class were elegant and a savoury. “Would be great served good example of style. 6 TASTED chilled with the antipasto!” 2 AWARDED thought one judge. $45 Well-made wines but too many Golden Grove Vintage with sweetness rather than any Grand Reserve Mourvedre real flavour, this needs to 2012 HHH be watched. A big style. Loaded with tannins, showing powerful character on the palate. $65 Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 133

Golden Grove Vintage Ridgemill Estate Hungry Lucas Estate The Ringtail CABERNETGrand Reserve Barbera Horse Red Blend Red Blend 2008 HHH2012 HHH 2013 HHH Spicy fruit aromas and flavours 15 TASTEDSour cherry aroma with soft Nice bouquet of floral berry with a lovely rich weight to the 6 AWARDEDrounded palate - has an exotic fruit following up with a palate. $28savoury flavour as well as fruit complex full-bodied oaky Younger wines were typicallyrichness. $45 palate. $28 MERLOT well-made but often lacking Ballandean Estate generosity and showing aSavina Lane Tempranillo Messing About Shiraz 10 TASTED lack of ripeness. While with2012 HHH Viognier 2012 HHH 4 AWARDED the older examples, theNice tempranillo savoury aromas Soft berry aromas and fruit medal winning wines hadleading to a mid-weight palate. flavours on the nose and Many of the young examples fruit generosity and varietalGood commercial style. $38 palate. $20 were simple and lacking fruit definition and a long palate Bungawarra Wines Shiraz weight, whilst many of the older with texture and balance.Sirromet Wines Le Cabernet 2012 HHH wines had quite a high incidence Lesser wines were simple drySauvage The Wild A commercial wine with of aldehyde fault along with reds – watch out for greenNebbiolo 2009 HHH spicy and plummy fruit style under-ripeness and brett. unripe fruit.Dense spicy and tarry aromas character on the palate. $24highlight this style followed up Ravens Croft Wines The Preston Peak Wines Twisted Gum Cabernetwith a firm tannin palate. $89 Waagee Bordeaux Blend Merlot 2010 HHHH Sauvignon 2012 HHHH 2012 HHH Appealing dense blue fruits A nice example of style. LovelyDRY RED BLENDS Nice bouquet of sweet fruit aroma on the nose leading to a ripe mulberry fruit aromas leading to an attractive savoury lovely full palate. $32 with good length and tannin23 TASTED palate. $50 structure to support. $4012 AWARDED Ridgemill Estate Cabernet Mason Wines Merlot Merlot 2012 HHH 2013 HHH Mason Wines CellarGenerally well-made wines, Beguiling dark berry fruits on Black fruits on the nose and Collection Cabernetthe best examples having good the nose with a simple and palate. Lots of firm acidity yet Sauvignon 2012 HHH1/2length and balance. The ones clean fresh palate. $28 still soft in style. $19.50 Attractive savoury olivethat didn’t make the grade Sirromet Wines Private and black fruit aromas andseemed to be too oaky. Collection LM Reserve Granite Ridge Wines character on the palate. $30 Assemblage Bordeaux Fergies Hill MerlotNirvana Estate Vineyard Blend 2012 HHH 2012 HHH Granite Ridge Wines TopCabernet Merlot Bordeaux-style earthy, berry Attractive black fruit aromas Block Cabernet Sauvignon2013 HHHHH flavours on the palate with a with an interesting mocha-like 2012 HHHSpicy lifted red berry fruit nose firm tannin backbone. $128 oak palate. $25 Leafy minty fruit bouquetleading to a lovely clean and Symphony Hill Wines leading to the same on palatesavoury palate. $14 Danying Cabernets Sirromet Wines Signature with a lingering aftertaste. $25 Cabernet Blend 2012 HHH Collection MerlotGolden Grove Cabernet Attractive red currant aromas 2012 HHH Mt Tamborine Vineyard &Merlot 2012 HHHH on the nose with a clean acidic Leafy and minty aromas on the Winery Platinum CabernetLoaded with leafy berry aromas and savoury palate. $25 nose with a nicely structured Sauvignon 2012 HHHand following through with a Whiskey Gully Rep Red firm oak palate and good Quite a tannic and firmfresh acid palate. $15 Red Blend 2012 HHH length. $35 example of this style. Good Nice red berry aromas on the commercial wine. $35Ridgemill Estate Shiraz nose with firm oak to follow onViognier 2012 HHHH the palate. $26 Pyramids Road WinesBlack fruit aromas with lovely Cabernet Sauvignonmocha character and toasty 2012 HHHoak. $35 Appealing green leafy and minty aromas and character on the palate with a long palate to finish. $35JUDGES David Morris Adrian Marchioro Cate Looney Chief winemaker of Rutherglen’s Account Executive for Northern Winemaker for Brown Morris wines, David took over NSW,Treasury Wine Estates. Brothers’ Milawa Winery. from his legendary father Mick Formerly Victorian state manager Previously worked as back in 1992. Previously he for Four Seasons Fine Wines. winemaker at Scotchman’s had worked at Brown Brothers Formerly winery manager Hill Winery and has followed by a twelve year stint at Witchmount Wines and vintaged in Sonoma, at Orlando’s Riverina winery. As cellarmaster for MoMo restaurant California. Associate judge well as chairman of judges at in Melbourne. Sommelier at the Australian Inland the Queensland wine show he at Flemington Racecourse. Wine Show, Victorian Wine has judged at the Adelaide and Associate judge at Ballarat and Show and the NSW Small Limestone Coast shows. the Victorian Wine Show. Winemakers’ Show.134 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Whiskey Gully Upper Golden Grove Vintage Savina Lane Millenium Dusty Hill Liqueur MuscatHouse Cabernet Grand Reserve Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHH 2004 HHHSauvignon 2012 HHH 2012 HHHHH Lovely sweet vanillin fruit A simple yet clean and fruityLovely minty varietal aromas Wonderful dark fruit aromas aroma on the nose and a soft style. A good quaffer. $40following through to a delicate on this very attractive wine. and juicy palate followingand soft palate. $26 Polished and elegant yet has through. $42 MUSEUM CLASS deliciously juicy style. $45SHIRAZ Just Red Wines Nikki’s Whiskey Gully Black Rod 5 TASTED Vineyard Syrah Shiraz 2012 HHH 4 AWARDED32 TASTED 2013 HHHH Bouquet of rich ripe fruit15 AWARDED Attractive dark berry aromas aromas and big mocha and An interesting class thatMany young and attractive light with very firm tannin to back it coffee oak style palate. $30 showed how well these winesspicy fruit styles in this class. up. $16 fare with age.Often without enough fruit Twisted Gum Shiraz Witches Falls Prophecyweight however. The amount 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHH Lucas Estate Theand type of oak needs to be Interesting aromas of soy A firm and savoury varietal McKinlay Cabernetwatched closely particularly sauce and dense black fruits style of wine. $51 Sauvignon 2006 HHHHHwith the older examples. A with an attractive chalky firm Elegant red berry flavoursgreat class to judge with really tannin profile to support. $35 Symphony Hill Wines with soft complexity followingdiverse styles. The best wines Golden Grove Shiraz Reserve Shiraz 2009 HHH through on the palate. Holdingwere elegant and balanced 2013 HHH Rich black fruit aromas and up well for its age. $35and also with palate length and Dark and brooding fruit nose flavours with firm tannin and atexture. The top wines had with a firm oak palate keeping “polished” supple palate. $65 Sirromet Wines Legreat energy. things in check. $24 Sauvage The Wild Ballandean Estate Opera Tipperary Estate Shiraz Chardonnay 2009 HHHHJester Hill Wines Block Shiraz 2012 HHH 2006 HHH Very attractive toasty complexTouchstone Shiraz Spicy red fruit aroma nose Interesting lean and spicy flinty style with great length.2012 HHHHH leading to a complex dry aromas lead to a soft and Drinking well now. $89A big blockbuster style with palate. $28 rounded palate. $20lots of intensity and oak Heritage Estate Wines Lucas Estate The Gordoncomplexity on both the nose Shiraz 2012 HHH SWEET WHITE & Estate Shiraz 2008 HHHHand palate. $22 Nice simple fruit nose with a FORTIFIED Delicious complex and savoury surprisingly big tannic palate. $30 cherry flavours on the palate. $40 Kominos Wines Estate 16 TASTED Shiraz 2012 HHH 3 AWARDED Sirromet Wines St Interesting blue berry fruit Jude’s Rd Grand Reserve aromas with a nice simple and Generally simple fortified wines Cabernet Sauvignon soft palate character. $24 lacking complexity and palate 2007 HHH O’Reillys Canungra Valley lusciousness. Late harvest is Attractive leafy red berry Vineyard Shane Reserve an emerging class but with aromas and flavours with good Shiraz 2012 HHH quite a few difficulties that still length holding in there. Nice Lovely juicy fruit style on both need to be addressed. drinking now. $390 the nose and palate. $35.90 Savina Lane Old Vine Ballandean Estate Shiraz 2012 HHH White Pearl Sweet White Pretty raspberry fruits on the 2014 HHH nose and palate with a great A soft clean style. A popular all firm acid spine to support. $65 round style for consumers. $16 Mason Wines VMV Late Harvest 2013 HHH Lovely bright sherbert fruit style with zingy freshness on the palate. $30Andrew Locke Tony Harper Hamish SeabrookAndrew has been a Wine writer and retailer Winemaker at Kirrihill Wines of Clare.winemaker with Rosemount at the Craft Wine Store in Formerly winemaker at Best’s WinesWines since 1998. Previously Brisbane. Formerly Fine in Great Western, senior winemakerhe was a winemaker with Wine manager at the at Brown Brothers and seniorOrlando Wyndham (now Wine Emporium. Chaired winemaker at Dorrien Estate. JudgePernod Ricard winemakers) the Mediterranean and Panel Chairman at Melbourneand De Bortoli Wines. He has Wine Challenge and has Wine Show 2003 and 2008,completed vintages in the US judged at the National Rutherglen 2003 to 2012, Stanthorpeand Loire (France). In 1993 he Wine Show and Brisbane 2008 to 2011. Judged at Canberra,attended the AWRI advanced and Adelaide among Sydney and Victorian wine shows,assessment course. many others. Ballarat, Brisbane Wine awards. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 135

98 TASTED58 AWARDEDRIESLINGSome great value here in the under $20 category, with wines for RIESLING Catalina Ridgelively drinking now or to put away for further development. As the 2013 & OLDER Coonawarra Rieslingprice goes up so does the fruit intensity and this variety has the UNDER $20 2008 HHH1/2 A classic aged riesling 10 TASTED with a toasty buttery lemon bouquet and long, 8 AWARDED elegant lime palate with toasty development. $17RIESLING 2014 Peter Yealands A consistent group Catalina RidgeUNDER $20 Marlborough without the highlights Coonawarra Riesling Riesling from the best of the 2007 HHH1/215 TASTED 2014 HHH1/2 2014s. These are great Aged kero-like notes to Lemons and limes on drinkers for now. the lemon butter nose8 AWARDED the nose with a touch of Majella Coonawarra and very sweet fuller style passionfruit and a strong Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 of palate with cumquat-A mixed group. “The muscular citrus palate Smells of orange like flavours. $17better wines showed with steely acidity. blossoms with a long Gotham Clare Valleylinear freshness of $15.99 NZ flavoursome gooseberry Riesling 2013 HHHcitrus flavours,” said Orlando St Helga palate and some toasty Already developedone judge. “There were Barossa Riesling notes developing. $17 and toasty wine butno faults but just early 2014 HHH1/2 enjoyable and ready fordevelopment stopping Citrussy bouquet with Di Giorgio Family drinking now. $14some wines getting over a touch of green herbs Kongorong Riesling Jacob’s Creekthe line.” and intense lemon 2013 HHH1/2 Reserve Barossa rind flavours with good Developed toasty/ Riesling 2013 HHHDi Giorgio Family Jacob’s Creek phenolic elements. $19.49 honeyed characters to A fine delicate style withKongorong Riesling Classic South Rockridge Watervale the citrussy nose and a floral lift to the nose2014 HHHHH Eastern Australia Clare Valley Riesling a “shrill” acid palate and loads of fresh citrus/A great zesty style of Riesling 2014 2014 HHH with buttery menthol floral flavours. $17.99riesling with some very HHHH1/2 Smells of musk elements. $19 Lawson’s Dryfresh fine floral and Lovely fresh lifted floral lifesavers with a long Hills Marlboroughflinty fragrances and a bouquet and elegantly fine palate and very Riesling 2013 HHHvery sweet but elegant structured citrus-driven fresh sweet citrus Very fragrant rose petalpalate brimming over palate with some flavours. $15 lift to the nose andwith fine delicate citrus tropical notes and nice Schild Estate intense persistence offlavours. $19 spiciness with good Barossa Valley citrus flavours. $18 tight acidity. $11.99 Riesling 2014 HHH The Wine Society Lots of florals on the Premium Selection Majella Coonawarra nose and a very fine Clare Valley Riesling Riesling 2014 HHHH delicate melon-driven 2012 HHH Bush biscuit and palate. $15 Balanced, long and oatmeal-like aromas Kirrihill Wines intense with lovely long with lots of green apple Regional Range pure lime juice-like fruit flavours laced with Clare Valley Riesling characters. $14.99 lemon rind characters 2014 HHH and steely acidity on the Lovely combination of palate. $17 rose petals, Turkish delight and lime cordial characters. “Gewurtz- like.” $16136 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

RIESLING 2014 Eden Hall Eden Leconfield Old Vines Richmond Grove$20 - $25 Valley Riesling Coonawarra Riesling Watervale Vineyards 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH Riesling 2013 HHHH11 TASTED Smells of jelly crystals Smells of guavas A classic riesling with7 AWARDED with zesty melony/ and herbs with nice its toasty, flinty brownA few excellent wines stonefruit flavours, nice persistence of zesty lime aromas and leanhere with others more freshness and seamless tropical flavours. $24.95 limey palate showingmiddle-road. The best balance with a lingering sweet apricot and slateyhad zesty acid and finish. $20 RIESLING notes. $22.99freshness of fruit. 2013 & OLDER Eden Hall Eden“Some allowed sulphur Claymore Wines Peter Lehmann H&V $20 - $25 Valley Rieslingto get in the way at this Joshua Tree Eden Valley Riesling 2013 HHHstage,” said one judge. Watervale Clare 2014 HHH 11 TASTED Nice toasty development“But this will diminish Valley Riesling Delicate floral aromatics 8 AWARDED on the nose and verywith time.” 2014 HHHH1/2 with nicely focused limey upfront flavours Lifted floral fragrances slatey acidity on the A solid, well-performing, with toasty notes. $20Boston Bay with a wet slate nose palate. $22 group with the best Roaring Meg CentralPeninsulas South and a fine delicate palate Greg Cooley Valerie showing a combination Otago RieslingAustralia Riesling with intense flavours Beh Single Vineyard of freshness and 2013 HHH2014 HHHH1/2 of cashews, lemons Watervale Clare nice citrus/grapefruit Quite Germanic withLimey, tropical and and limes with mouth- Valley Riesling developed characters. its floral fragrancesbuttery characters lift watering acid finish. $22 2014 HHH “Good to see a lack of and sweet apricotoff the nose followed Dolan Family Wines A delicate zesty citrus/ excess toastiness with flavours with good acidby a long elegant Rifleman’s Clare floral bouquet. Full- nice ageing wariness,” balance. $20citrus-driven palate with Valley Riesling flavoured musky palate noted one judge. Hunter’s Janerestrained but persistent 2014 HHHH with nice phenolic Hunter Marlboroughtoasty lime flavours. $20 Pale and delicate with edge. $23 Alkoomi Black Label Riesling 2013 HHH a floral/rose petal-like Frankland River Toasty buttery notes to bouquet. Very floral Riesling 2013 HHHH the tropical/citrus fruit sweet palate with Delicate flinty brown characters with a good some muskiness and lime aromas on the nose acid backbone. $20.99 NZ nice thread of lemon and a palate loaded Robert Oatley acidity. $20 with fresh vibrant citrus Signature Great flavours and a fine level Southern Riesling of acidity. $22 2013 HHH Floral fragrances; Artwine Clare Valley smells of rose petals Riesling 2013 HHHH with smoky complexity Some hessian-like and a delicate grassy development on the palate. $22.95 nose and a palate that Yealands Estate is delicate and long with Single Vineyard fine citrus/apricot flavours Awatere Valley with toastiness. $22 Marlborough Riesling 2012 HHH Toasty brown lime nose and toasty nutty palate with lovely acid vibrancy. $22.95 NZ JUDGESTeresa Heuzenroeder Ulrich Grey Smith Tim DolanSenior winemaker Winemaker for Winemaker for Peter Lehmannfor Yalumba wines. Padthaway Estate. Wines. Tim has workedResponsible for white Four years at BRL vintages in the US at Napa andwines and sparklings. Hardy and De Sonoma; Italy in Tuscany, andCharles Sturt University Bortoli respectively, Barolo and Niagara in Canada aswinemaking degree. with time also well as at home in the Barossa,Participated in the spent in Germany McLaren Vale, and the HunterAustralian Wine Research and Canada. Valley. His grandfather, BryanInstitute (AWRI) advanced Associate judge employed the young Peterassessment course in at various regional Lehmann at the Saltram Winery2005. wine shows. back in 1959. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 137

RIESLING Maude Mt Maude Pokolbin Estate Hand Crafted$25 - $30 Vineyard Wanaka Hunter Valley by Geoff Hardy Central Otago Riesling 2007 Adelaide Hills22 TASTED Dry Riesling HHHH1/2 Riesling 2014 HHH14 AWARDED 2014 HHHH1/2 Classic toasty/kero Floral, almost Delicate floral nose development to the confectionery-like,Strong class of well- with zesty notes and nose and beautifully aromas and quite adefined varietals with nice spiciness and an textured palate with complex slatey citrusexcellent regional extraordinary line of zippy loads of buttery flavours palate. $25examples and styles green apple fruit on the layered with very pureranging from the off-dry complex palate with nice and delicate citrussy Patrick Estatemineral versions to piquancy. $25 NZ fruit. $28 Wrattonbullyfleshier rounder ones; Bellarmine Select Coonawarra Rieslingall have appropriate Pemberton Riesling 2013 HHHacid vivacity. 2014 HHHH Quite toasty on the Germanic in style with lemony nose withPokolbin Estate high level of floral mouthfilling brown lime Jacob’s CreekHunter Valley fragrances and a long flavours and balancing Steingarten EdenRiesling 2013 HHHHH lemony length to the acidity. $25 Valley RieslingA nice delicate Germanic palate with delicate fruit 2013 HHHH1/2style with botrytis-like and good sugar/acid Staete Landt Rudi An aromatic peachesorange peel characters balance. $25 Marlborough Dry and cream bouquet withon the nose. A well- Bellarmine Half Dry Riesling 2011 HHH a lovely line of zestybalanced palate full of Pemberton Riesling Developed toasty lime characters. Moresweet apricot flavours 2014 HHH1/2 bouquet and intense peaches and creamwith warming alcohol Pungent passionfruit concentration of slatey characters obvious onand zesty acidity. $25 aromas and spritzy citrus rind flavours with the palate underscored palate high in residual a toasty thread. $25 NZ with zesty acid. $31.99Truffle Hill McGuigan The sugar but has the acidity Patrick ofPemberton Riesling Shortlist Eden to balance it. $25 Staete Landt Coonawarra2013 HHHHH Valley Riesling Galafrey Wines Dry Marlborough Dry Aged RieslingFresh, floral, fragrances 2014 HHHH1/2 Land Reserve Mount Riesling 2010 HHH Wrattonbully Rieslingwith hints of pear skins Smells of orange Barker Riesling Very toasty and buttery 2010 HHHH1/2and some herbal notes. blossoms with a lovely 2014 HHH1/2 on the nose and quite Buttery toastyVery complex palate - floral lift and has a long, Delicate aromas of lemon curd-like flavours development on theboth linear and focused lingering, full-flavoured blossoms and citrus with zesty acidity. $25 NZ nose with lovely lemonwith lots of intense apricot and lime-like peel with tropical notes curd notes and a citrussyflavours and a powerful palate. Still very closed and some delicate zippy RIESLING $30+ palate with toasty keroacid drive. $28 and tight. $28.99 green flavours $25 characters. A classic Babich Family 16 TASTED aged riesling ready for STAR RATINGS  Estates Individual 13 AWARDED drinking now. $39 Vineyard CowslipThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Valley Marlborough A strong class asexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Riesling 2012 HHH1/2 expected for this price.All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Complex honeyed nose “A few were held backprofessionals and are compared in peer and good length and because of unripeclasses by three judges. intensity of lemon/lime sweet/sour characters,”CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, flavours with fresh and said one judge. “Thea major mail-order business. lively acidity. $27 best wines here showedCD Cellar door price. Bellarmine Dry balanced acid drive andCDO Cellar door only. Pemberton Riesling good depth and purity ofSO Sold out. 2014 HHH varietal fruit.”$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Upfront tropical fruit Contact information pg 176. nose and a fuller style citrussy palate with pithy RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). acidity. $25For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au138 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

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Austins Wines Riesling 2014 HHH1/2 Delicate citrus nose with toasty fumé-like characters and powerful buttery toasty palate with zesty lemon acidity. $32 McLeans Farm Barr-Eden Eden Valley Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 Hints of musk and rose petals on the nose and quite slatey and minerally on the lime juice-like palate. $30 Peter Lehmann Wigan Murdoch James Eden Valley Riesling Single Vineyard Blue 2009 HHHH1/2 Rock Martinborough Still extremely youthful Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 and fresh with intense Vibrant and pungent fresh lemon/lime aromas aromas with an apricot and seamlessly balanced lift and peppery notes. palate with long lingering Palate is a complexity citrus flavours and quite of flavours with fine noticeable kero notes. acid. $30 “Awesome.” $32 Robert Oatley Tamburlaine Reserve Finisterre Organic Orange Porongurup Riesling Riesling 2014 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 A green bean-like Floral and spicy aromas nose with some herbal with funky notes. The touches. Super tight sweetness on the palate displaying delicate palate is kept in balance green flavours and zesty by intense searing acidity. $33 acidity. $32.95 Craggy Range Robert Stein Single Vineyard Mudgee Riesling Martinborough 2014 HHH Riesling 2013 HHHH Slightly sweeter style Very fresh lychee, rose with delicate floral fruit petal bouquet and very and lemony acidity with a delicate citrus/floral fine lingering finish. $40 palate with good flavour Robert Stein Half intensity and fresh zesty Dry Mudgee Riesling acidity. $35 2013 HHH McLeans Farm Flinty nose in the green Barr-Eden Eden spectrum with full- Valley Riesling flavoured palate with 2014 HHH1/2 orange/citrus notes. $35 Delicate lifted citrus Rockburn Tigermoth bouquet and palate with Central Otago restrained fruit in the Riesling 2013 HHH green spectrum with Lifted rose petals fine zesty lemon drop- on the nose with like acidity. $30 some funkiness and confectionery sweet stonefruit palate. $38.99140 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014



94 TASTED29 AWARDEDPINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIOA difficult tasting, with the judges trying to find the line between Rapaura Springs Yealands Estatefresh and neutral wines and fuller, oily wines that still manage to Marlborough Pinot Land Made Seriesmaintain their zest. It is an art to make these well but when this is Gris 2014 HHH Marlborough Pinot Lifted and warming with Gris 2014 HHHPINOT GRIS/ PINOT GRIS/ good texture, soft fruit Ripe, warm and invitingGRIGIO GRIGIO and nice acid/phenolic with good length ofUNDER $15 $15 - $20 balance. $15 fleshy tropical fruit Four Sisters and mouthwatering15 TASTED 23 TASTED Victoria Pinot Grigio acidity. $19.99 2014 HHH3 AWARDED 10 AWARDED Delicate aromas of Trentham Estate blossoms and petals. La Famiglia MurrayGood wines are few A high strike rate from Very inviting palate with Darling Pinot Grigioand far between here. the 2014s but falling bright acid spine. $16.20 2013 HHH“A neutral variety tends away in the older Mount Vernon An attractive wine withto produce neutral vintages. “Pinot gris/ Marlborough Pinot lifted estery aromas andwines but there is no grigio is cute as a kid, Gris 2014 HHH bright citrus fruit flavoursexcuse for faults or ugly as an adult,” said Slight botrytis notes on with crisp acidity. $15lack of freshness,” said one judge. “The variety the nose. Palate quiteone judge. The ones does not age well; drink minerally and textured Blackbilly Adelaiderecommended here young and early.” with slight phenolic Pinot Gris 2012 HHHhad some “flesh and finish. $17.99 Complex, yet simple,texture” and offer great McPherson Wine aromatics with crispvalue drinking! Company MWC varietal fruit layered with Victoria Pinot Gris attractive phenolics. $18Devils Creek Alpine 2014 HHHValleys Pinot Grigio Estery bubblegum- PINOT GRIS/2014 HHH like fruit characters GRIGIOMuscat-like aromas with and lively tight acid $20 - $25similar characters on the to balance. Lovelyattractive and evenly summer wine. $18.99 32 TASTEDbalanced palate. $10 10 AWARDEDKaltern Caldaro South Point Estate Bundaleer Golden “Too many fat andItalia Pinot Grigio South Eastern Spike Clare Valley bitter wines here2013 HHH Australia Pinot Pinot Gris 2014 HHH showing prematureFresh floral and pear Grigio 2014 HHH Bright and cheery wine development,” said onebouquet with cheerful Bright and simple with crunchy fruit and judge. “A number ofpalate. “A simple, with sweet lifted fruit lovely length of acid and these are providing lesshonest, village style aromas and fleshy lingering finish. $19 value for the dollar.”wine.” $N/A apple pulp flavours. Lou Miranda Estate “The best here are Leone Barossa worthy, but sadly a lot 3-5 $4.99 Valley Pinot Grigio weren’t,” said another. 2014 HHH Punchy intensity of green apple fruit balanced by a fresh acid spine with some complexity. $19.95 Peter Yealands Marlborough Pinot Gris 2014 HHHH Lifted varietal aromas with nice floral line. Very rich, ripe palate with slight sweetness. Lovely drink. $15.99142 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Wairua River Silver Fern Babich Marlborough Maude Central PINOT GRIS/Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Pinot Gris 2013 HHH Otago Pinot Gris GRIGIOGris 2014 HHHH1/2 Gris 2014 HHH1/2 Fresh and lively with 2014 HHHH1/2 $30 +Herbaceous cool A rich, oily, fleshy lifted ripe fruit showing An exceptional wineclimate style with bright wine that has slight marmalade notes with a beautiful 7 TASTEDlifted fruit fragrances freshness, balance and great acidity. $22 NZ seamless balance of 2 AWARDEDand good, weight and and length. “Needs Nashi pear and greenbalance to the palate cheese,” suggested PINOT GRIS/ apple crunch flavours “Handling this wine inwith almost sauvignon one judge. $20.99 GRIGIO with a tightly woven acid a ‘riesling recipe’ withblanc-like green bean Stone Bridge Wines $25 - $30 spine to balance some kid gloves won’t work,”characters. “Love it,” Clare Valley Pinot sweetness. $25 NZ said one judge. “On thesaid one judge. $20 Gris 2014 HHH 17 TASTED Hawkshead other hand treating itRoaring Meg Central A crisp crunchy apple 4 AWARDED Gibbston Central roughly loses aromaticsOtago Pinot Gris style of pinot that is firm, Otago Pinot Gris but takes away brown2013 HHHH fresh and dry. Great “Price isn’t everything,” 2013 HHHH colours and bitterness.”Smells of pineapples and summer drink. $22 agreed the judges. “Fresh A lovely unctuous gris A tough call!marmalade. Lovely palate Crossroads is best,” said one of them. style with a firm andlength with flavours Milestone Series “Overall the best had a fresh combination of Banyandah Macedonof pears, peaches and Hawke’s Bay Pinot concentration of flavour rose petals, jasmine, Ranges Pinot Grisapples. Good acid to Gris 2014 HHH and here the gris styles citrus and honey 2013 HHHbalance. $20 A good wine with simple tend to perform better.” sweetness. $25.99 Layered and interestingAllandale Goulburn fruit, lovely bright acidity Most here simply lacked Yealands Estate with a hint ofValley Pinot Gris and an interesting touch flavour depth. Single Vineyard development and fresh2014 HHH1/2 of lees. $23 Awatere Valley pear and apple fruitA simple and ‘friendly’ Greg Cooley Wines Centennial Vineyards Marlborough Pinot characters. $31.95wine with punchy The Gloria Southern Old Block Southern Gris 2013 HHHtropical and lime-like Fleurieu Pinot Grigio Highlands Pinot Lovely example of the Yealands Estatevarietal fruit with bright 2014 HHH Grigio 2014 HHHH1/2 variety with its attractive Single Blockflorals with a warming One for the lovers A floral lift to the nose apple and pear-like fruit Awatere Valleyfinish. $20 of big ripe styles. It and a complex palate characters. $26.99 Marlborough Pinot has an abundance of with a balance of lifted Gris 2012 HHH strawberry and toffee poached pear-like fruit Fresh aromatics; hints characters. $23 flavours with some pear of lavender and roses. Sileni Cellar Selection juice notes supported by Good fruit/acid balance Hawke’s Bay Pinot a great acid spine. $25 to the palate. $35.99 Gris 2013 HHH A well-made wine with ripe and fleshy fruit, some sweet/sour characters and firm acid. $20 NZ Saint Clair Family Estates Premium Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 HHH Balanced, structured and beautifully layered with citrus and pear fruit with tightly wound acidity. $21.50 NZJUDGES Scott Rawlinson Stuart Rusted Stuart Bourne Senior winemaker for Fleurieu Winemaker for Wolf Senior winemaker Vintners & Boar’s Rock Winery. Blass wines for the at Chateau Tanunda. Former chief winemaker for past seven years. Has Formerly winery manager Serafino Wines at McLaren Vale. completed Advanced and winemaker for Previously winemaker with Mildara Assessment Course Barossa Valley Estate. at Jamieson’s Run and Wolf Blass. at the AWRI. Was Has 13 years’ winemaking Associate judge at Canberra wine dux at the Adelaide experience. Associate shows and worked a vintage in University Oenology judge at the Barossa wine Northern California. Degree. show. Vintages in WA, Victoria and SA. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 143

117 TASTED77 AWARDEDFROM THE PRODUCERA most interesting initiative from John Cameron (philanthropist Ladies Who Shootand wine lover) who has funded this direct to consumer from the Their Lunchwinery idea to help small struggling winemakers in conjunction with Strathbogie Rangesthe Winemakers’ Federation. Here we look at their offerings in a Riesling 2013 HHHblind tasting without fear or favour from our panel of three judges. Fresh and lively withWe are pleased to report that there are worthy wines in each some hessian-likecategory, with the standouts coming from the chardonnay, cabernet funkiness and balancingand shiraz categories. acidity. $34.95 SEMILLON & BLENDS 7 TASTED 4 AWARDEDSPARKLING OTHER WHITE Campbells Wines Silkwood Premium One standout wine and VARIETALS & Limited Release Pemberton a couple worthy aged4 TASTED BLENDS Rutherglen Sauvignon Blanc varietals showing just3 AWARDED Rousanne 2014 HHHH how well this variety 10 TASTED 2013 HHHH Great varietal definition evolves whilst retainingA small but solid group 5 AWARDED An obvious stonefruit obvious on the its freshness.with nice freshness and bouquet lifted with a nose with lingeringwell-balanced flavours An eclectic group of dash of spices and a persistence of pungent Wandin Valleyacross the board. varietals and vintages. palate with rich, ripe tropical/citrus flavours. Reserve NSW The best showed cider/apple-like flavour Needs more time to Semillon 2009Coombe Farm Wines varietal focus and purity profile. A good food settle. $26 HHHHHNellie Melba Yarra of fruit. Some of the wine. $25 Excellent nutty,Valley Blanc de older wines had retained RIESLING toasty, honeyed agedBlanc 2011 HHHH their fruit freshness but Oliver’s Taranga characters on the noseLight toasty aromas others had fallen away. Small Batch 6882 4 TASTED and a lovely creamywith a hint of citrus McLaren Vale Fiano 2 AWARDED smooth palate thatand stonefruit. Fresh, Wandin Valley Estate 2014 HHH still shows some fruitfocused and vibrant in NSW Verdelho Fragrant aromas and a The recommended freshness with brownthe mouth tasting of 2014 HHHH delicate palate with crisp wines had varietal lift lime-like flavours andcitrus with a green apple Delicate pink hues with acidity and good flavour and freshness of retained acidity. $30finish. $40 aromas of fruit salad persistence. $24 citrus flavours, the laced with green apples. others didn’t! Mistletoe HunterCannibal Creek Good intensity of fresh Totino Estate Valley SemillonGippsland Methode citrus flavours with a Adelaide Hills Pinot Shaw Vineyard 2013 HHHChampenoise light hazelnut twist. $25 Grigio 2013 HHH Estate Canberra A lemon zest nose with2010 HHH1/2 Clean and crisp with Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 light florals. Good acidA tropical fruit bouquet Ballandean Estate good balance between A fragrance of lime juice crunch to the citrus/with a dash of lemon Wines Messing pear and peach with a toasty touch. Nice herbal palate. $24and similar characters About Granite Belt characters. Bright nose, complexity of citrus andon the full-flavoured Fiano 2014 HHHH soft palate. $18.95 herbal flavours with good Happs Wines Threepalate. Slightly sweet A richness of figs spine of acidity. $25 Hills Eva Mariefinish. $28 and melons on the SAUVIGNON Western Australia lifted nose. Rich and BLANC Semillon SauvignonGrampians Estate flavoursome palate Blanc 2013 HHHRutherford Victoria with good length of 5 TASTED Fresh and grassy withSparkling Shiraz melon and kiwi fruit 1 AWARDED some light tropical notes2010 HHH characters. $28 and a sweet herbalRaspberry-like nose with One good example finish. $27a spicy lift of oak adding showing varietala level of complexity and definition. The othersa big vanillin oak-driven were just on thepalate. $35 borderline being too simple to rate.144 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Tamburlaine Reserve Tamburlaine ReserveOrganic Hunter Organic OrangeValley Semillon Chardonnay2013 HHH 2013 HHHHDeveloping toasty Nutty lift to the applearomas with good length and citrus bouquetand persistence of ripe with good grippy/nuttyflavours. $33 complexity on the long and nicely weightedCHARDONNAY varietal palate. $33 Saddlers Creek14 TASTED Wines Saddler’s13 AWARDED Hunter Valley ChardonnayA strong class. “A 2013 HHH1/2mix of styles but all Figs and stonefruitshowing respect for the on both nose andfruit,” noted one judge. palate with nutty oak“Appropriate use of characters and slightoak was the hallmark funkiness addinghere with nice complex complexity. $26fruit structure.” Penley Estate Coonawarra Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 A big, bold, oak assertive style but without dominating the creamy fruit. Nice texture and layers of complexity. $19.99 Are you Game? Victoria Chardonnay 2013 HHH Juicy, fleshy and fruity with light nuttiness and a long, lingering citrussy finish. $16.95Cannibal Creek Totino Estate COCHET CONCEPT - EPERNAY - PHOTOS : L’ABUS D’ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ, SACHEZ CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉRATION.Gippsland Adelaide HillsChardonnay Chardonnay2012 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHA leaner style of Melons, lemons andchardonnay showing nuts on the nose withexcellent balance, flavours reminiscent offreshness and lemon curd tart. $18.95complexity and Mistletoe Hunterexhibiting juicy grapefruit Valley Chardonnaycharacters with a nice 2013 HHHtouch of nuttiness. $28 Big obvious oak-drivenTrentham Estate chardonnay with someMurray Darling simple fruit and hessianChardonnay funkiness. $222013 HHHH Silkwood PremiumFull-flavoured wine Pembertonwith syrupy tropical Chardonnaycharacters, nutty 2013 HHHnotes and fig-like Clean, fresh and well-elements adding to the made with simple peachcomplexity. Nice crisp and melon fruit and fig-finish. $16 like complexity. $27 www.champagne-jeeper.com L’ABUS D’ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ, CONSOMMEZ AVEC MODÉRATION Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 145

Saddlers Creek Wheels ‘It’s All Silkwood Premium Campbells Wines MERLOT &Wines Reserve About Balance’ Rosé Pemberton Pinot Limited Release BLENDSHunter Valley 2014 HHHH Noir 2013 HHH1/2 RutherglenChardonnay Aromas of strawberries Herbal hints on the stalky Tempranillo 5 TASTED2013 HHH and lemons on the nose beetroot/cherry nose. 2012 HHHH1/2 3 AWARDEDA heavier style with with a delicate floral lift Good persistence and A well-structuredplenty of wood but and bright and vibrant complexity of cola and wine ripe with earthy A small but solid groupwell matched by the with dark berry and rhubarb flavours. $28 blackberry aromas and with one excellentchardonnay fruit. $36 strawberry flavours. $24 showing a good mix example of an older wine. Coombe Farm Wines of spices and sweetTarraWarra Estate PINOT NOIR Yarra Valley Pinot dark berry flavours with Shaw VineyardYarra Valley Noir 2013 HHH1/2 savoury elements and Estate CanberraChardonnay 7 TASTED A complexity of sweet tannins. $22 Merlot 20092012 HHH 5 AWARDED cola, rhubarb and Vinrock McLaren HHHH1/2Nutty, toasty secondary A solid class of herbal elements with Vale Grenache Dark, inky and broodingcharacters developing drinkable wines in some confectionery 2013 HHHH wine, almost Bordeaux-on the nose and palate. varying shapes and sweetness but balancing Jubey, juicy and fleshy like. Smells of licoriceGood palate texture. $28 colours showing nice acidity. $35 with dark fruit aromas and chocolate with hints freshness and structure. and soft, generous and of violets. Tannic blackLadies Who Shoot Cannibal Creek lively flavours with nice fruit palate has slightTheir Lunch Trentham Estate Gippsland Pinot fruit sweetness and gamey notes. Fresh forStrathbogie Ranges Murray Darling Noir 2012 HHH warming alcohol. $22 its age. $25Yarra Valley Pinot Noir A nose and palate Totino EstateChardonnay 2014 HHH1/2 reminiscent of glacé Adelaide Hills Wheels ‘No Trainers2012 HHH Youthful earthy cherries with spicy oak Sangiovese Needed’ Classic RedToasty bottle age with nose with a hint of and a hint of menthol. $32 Shiraz Cabernet Mudgee Langhornehoneyed notes and strawberries. Pleasant 2012 HHHH Creek Merlot Blendcreamy fruit and a high blackberry and cream Ladies Who Shoot A wine with, what one 2012 HHHlevel of acidity. $34.95 palate with good flavour Their Lunch judge described as, Fragrances of cassis fruit length. $16 Strathbogie Ranges “having rustic charm”. with sweet/spicy agedCoombe Farm Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Spicy/earthy nose and fruit flavours. GenerousWines Yarra Valley A robust and earthy/ herbaceous palate with tannin structure. $24Chardonnay forest floor version with chalky tannins. $21.952012 HHH a spicy oak lift and good Ballandean Estate Craneford BarossaVery fresh for its age with level of acidity. $34.95 Wines Messing Valley Merlota mélange of fig, peach, About Granite 2010 HHHcitrus and cashew-like OTHER RED Belt Saperavi Tarry nose; smellscharacters. $35 VARIETALS & 2012 HHHH chocolaty with an inky BLENDS Attractive sweet and palate showing cigar boxROSÉ sour varietal fruit complexity. $31.95 10 TASTED characters balanced by3 TASTED 5 AWARDED the chocolaty oak, dense1 AWARDED tannins and a good level A few gems in this of acidity. $42“It’s all about balance,” mixed group. “The Vinrock McLarensaid one judge, which is best were way ahead Vale Grenachereflected in the name of of the others,” agreed Shiraz Matarothe only wine that was the judges. “Achieving 2013 HHHrecommended! appropriate ripeness Spicy, complex and was the key here,” said nicely layered with spicy one judge. black fruits and chalky tannins. $23JUDGES GregTilbrook Nigel Dolan Shane Harris Barossa based winemaking Owner of Dolan Family Wines. Winemaker for Wines by consultant. Formerly senior Formerly chief winemaker Geoff Hardy including, winemaker Watson Wine for Wyndham Estate Wines Pertaringa Wines, K1 and Group. Former winemaker and group Red winemaker Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy at Wynns Coonawarra for the Fosters Wine Group Wines. Has also completed winery for five years. and Saltram chief winemaker. vintages in Queensland and Previously winemaker at Previously senior winemaker Victoria. Completed the Amberley Estate, Margaret and manager at Seppelt AWRI advanced sensory River for six years. Wines. 10 years’ experience course and has associate Completed a vintage in as senior judge with national judged at McLaren Vale Languedoc, France. and regional wine shows. wine show. 146 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

CABERNET Wine By Brad ‘Brad’BLENDS Margaret River Cabernet Merlot9 TASTED 2011 HHH8 AWARDED Lean and angular with subtle briary/tobaccoSolid, but not spectacular, leaf aromas and savourygroup of mixed blends notes on the chocolatyand vintages offering palate. $18good drinking andexhibiting appropriate Totino Estatetannins and underlying Adelaide Hillscabernet fruit depth. Cabernet Shiraz 2011 HHHHapps Wines Charles Earthy aromas with aAndreas Western lift of white pepper.Australia Cabernet Good length andSauvignon Merlot intensity of solid darkMalbec Petit Verdot berry flavours. $21.952011 HHHHThe dark fruit nose has Craneford Quarteta certain inkiness to Barossa Valleyit and is followed by Cabernet Sauvignonsweet cassis/briary fruit Shiraz Merlotflavours supported by Grenache 2009 HHHlovely soft tannins. $45 A mature blend. Leathery secondarySilkwood Premium characters developingPemberton Cabernet but still has some fruitMerlot Malbec freshness. $23.952013 HHH1/2Fresh, youthful blend CABERNETwith briary fruits SAUVIGNONbalanced by herbalelements and violet-like 12 TASTEDnotes with silky smooth 9 AWARDEDtannins. $24 A very good classCoombe Farm showing the quality ofWines Yarra Valley the 2012 vintage. “ACabernet Merlot nice combination of2012 HHH1/2 varietal expression andInteresting tarry aromas appropriate level of fruitwith a dash of berries ripeness,” concludedand capsicum. Good one judge.flavour profile and lengthwith gentle tannins. $35 Penny’s Hill McLaren ValeCannibal Creek Cabernet SauvignonGippsland Cabernet 2012 HHHHHMerlot 2013 HHH Dark, dense, inky andA nose of dark berries brooding with excellentand chocolate with a varietal definition. Nosefirm and tannic red berry has layers of fruit andfruit palate. $28 chocolate aromas and the palate is a big spiceCape Grace bin of flavours with well-Margaret River structured tannins. $25Cabernet SauvignonShiraz 2012 HHHSpicy plum and darkcherry-like fruit withgood level of powderytannins in support. $25 Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 147

Bayliss Road Black Saddlers Creek Label McLaren Vale Wines Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek 2013 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Blackcurrants and olives 2012 HHH on the nose with a light A big, older style of floral lift. Very well- cabernet tending balanced sweet dark berry towards the prune/ palate. Excellent length. cola end of the flavour Grippy tannins. $19 spectrum. $65 Penley Estate Craneford Barossa Grampians Estate St Coonawarra Valley Cabernet Ethel’s Grampians Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Shiraz 2012 HHHHH 2012 HHHH 2009 HHH Brooding and inky Attractive lightweight Smells earthy and bouquet with a dash with a lovely balance of mushroom-like. Chocolaty of pepper and hints of chocolate, mulberry and in the mouth. Good lavender. Good length violet characters, some tannin length. $27.95 and persistence of sweet savoury notes and hints dark berry fruit with of spicy oak. $19.99 SHIRAZ & earthy complexity and Totino Estate BLENDS good tannin support. $50 Adelaide Hills Vinrock McLaren Cabernet Sauvignon 25 TASTED Vale Shiraz 2012 HHHH 17 AWARDED 2013 HHHH1/2 Choc mint aromas with The judges agreed this A very well-structured a spicy herbal lift and was a very strong class wine with a good good balance of sweet with the top wines concentration of big, dark berry flavours with showing great depth bold, inky dark fruits more herbal notes and and complexity and and showing a great powdery tannins. $23.95 appropriate ripeness for spicy persistence with Shaw Vineyard each different region, very good, powerful, Estate Canberra whether warm or cool. tannins. $22 Cabernet Sauvignon Totino Estate 2009 HHHH Mistletoe Hunter Adelaide Hills Shiraz A generous, layered Valley Shiraz 2013 HHHH and complex style, 2013 HHHHH Super fresh inky nose still fresh for its age, Plumy and chocolaty smelling of the earth with a peppermint on the nose with hints with tarry touches. The lift to the nose and of olives. Soft and delightful palate is a vibrant persistence of generous in the mouth vibrant, fresh and simple flavours. $25 with good spectrum fruit bomb. $23.95 Terra Mia McLaren of spicy fruit flavours Vale Cabernet nicely layered with the Sauvignon powdery tannins. $30 2013 HHH1/2 Youthful cabernet smells of cherries and blackberries with some varietal leafiness to the berry palate. Good tannins. $18 Cape Grace Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 HHH Chocolaty/charry oak dominates for now but there are signs of fragrant briary fruit pushing through. $50148 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Are you Game? Craneford Barossa SWEET WHITEVictoria Shiraz Valley Shiraz & FORTIFIED2012 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2A cooler climate style. Gamey, slightly porty 2 TASTEDSome earthiness and bouquet -some Old 1 AWARDEDspices on the nose. Spice-like touches.Lighter weight palate with Good syrupy palate of One excellent example ofgood length of earthy fruit aged fruit and chewy a luscious dessert wine.flavours. $16.95 tannins. $27.95Oliver’s Taranga Grampians Estate Trentham EstateMcLaren Vale Shiraz Streeton Reserve Murray Darling Noble2012 HHHH Grampians Shiraz Taminga (375ml)Meaty BBQ elements 2009 HHH1/2 2012 HHHHHto the creamy berry Still quite fresh for Lovely aromaticaromas. A blackberry a five-year old and fragrances reminiscentcompote of a palate with showing plenty of dark of musk sticks and rosegood use of oak and soft fruit, oak, spices and petals. Excellent lengthtannin support. $30 tannins with a warming of lusciously sweetPenley Estate finish. $60 marmalade-like flavoursCoonawarra Shiraz Trentham Estate with good acid balance2012 HHH1/2 Murray Darling and some tannic grip. $16Minty lift to the spicy Shiraz 2013 HHHred berry nose and A vibrant youth withsome pine forest-like a dark berry bouquet.elements on the red/ Soft and tarry on theblack fruit palate. flavoursome palate. $16Velvety tannins. $19.99 Stone DwellersCape Grace Strathbogie RangesMargaret River Shiraz 2013 HHHShiraz 2012 HHH1/2 A leaner style ofSpicy peppery bouquet; shiraz - incredibly freshlots of oak. The black - more in the leafycherry palate shows an menthol spectrum.earthy edge and has a Silky tannins. $24.95firm tannin structure. $30 Terra Mia McLarenWilloughby Bridge Vale ShirazHeathcote Shiraz 2012 HHHGrenache Mourvedre Savoury cola characters2011 HHH1/2 mingle with blackcurrantLovely bright fresh and menthol elementswine, quite inky and and supported by softcomplex. Has an tannins. $18attractive tartness with TarraWarra Estatesome distinct peppery J Block Yarra Valleynotes. $25 Shiraz 2012 HHHGSM Vineyards Simple tarry/earthyBarossa Shiraz nose and hints of red2010 HHH1/2 fruit flavours on theAgeing tarry/licorice palate with good tanninaromas and a very oaky length. $35palate with aged varietal Willoughby Bridgefruit characters and Heathcote Shirazdrying tannins. $22 2010 HHH A compote of stonefruit characters with mushroomy earthiness and cedary oak. $30 Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 149