Winestate Magazine July August 2022

varietal tasting Gralyn Margaret Wolf Blass Platinum Bec Hardy Wines River Cabernet Barossa Cabernet Pertaringa Tipsy Sauvignon 2001 Sauvignon 2016 Hill McLaren Vale HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts Cabernet Sauvignon A very mature wine; A classic blockbuster 2020 HHH1/2 92pts still has a great colour of an Aussie cabernet An intense purple fruit and still in excellent – all dark berries, bomb of a wine with condition with meaty/ bitumen and herbs. Still lifted aromas and soft cigar box aromas and amazingly fresh and generous flavours. $295 a beautifully evolved will reward with further flavour profile. $500 cellaring. $200 Gralyn Margaret Bec Hardy Wines Gralyn Reserve STAR RATINGS  River Cabernet Pertaringa Tipsy Margaret River Sauvignon 2002 Hill McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of HHHHH 98pts Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2 excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. A fabulously aged 2019 HHHH1/2 96pts All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry cabernet that is drinking 97pts A beautiful velvety professionals and are compared in peer beautifully now. Obvious Blueberry bouquet smooth wine offering classes by three judges. smoky/savoury/bacon with earthy/forest floor lots of everything - CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, bone characters on the complexity. Lovely sweet fruit, good oak, a major mail-order business. nose that carry on to the palate; tight, elegant lovely bottle age and CD Cellar door price. palate. $500 and complex with great an attractive savoury CDO Cellar door only. length of savoury/ element. $500 SO Sold out. meaty flavours and bold $N/A Price not available at time of printing. tannins. $295  Contact information pg 87. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 51

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN CLARE VALLEY AN ARTY VIEWPOINT As a young winemaker in the 1970s, TIME TO PUT CLARE BACK Neil learnt his trade working for two of ON THE MAP TAYLORS is one of the most-visited cellar Australia’s most famous wineries, Penfolds doors in the Clare Valley – and after tasting and Rosemount Estate. NOW just one and a half hours’ drive north visitors can explore a selection of artworks of Adelaide – on some excellent new roads created by sculptors from around the world. His dream was to start his own winery, - the charming Clare Valley is fast becoming a family business that would serve as a a new favourite with wine lovers. The Taylor family highlight several local legacy for the next generation and beyond. and international sculptures, sourced from Pauletts was established in 1983, and Clare’s winemaking history started back various Sculptures By The Sea exhibitions. Neil remembers the first time he saw the in the mid-1800s with Jesuit settlers who winery’s magnificent view – one the major planted the first vines in the region. The year-round exhibition is in the grounds regional drawcards. of the winery, giving visitors to the region the Today, the Clare Valley is home to more than chance to interact with the sculptures in a Today, the Paulett family has 66 hectares 30 wineries, many of them family owned. quintessential Australian vineyard setting. under vine, including 100-year-old shiraz vines planted by early Polish Hill River settlers. The region is filled with historic towns and The Taylor family has been associated landmarks like the mining town of Burra, with the arts for more than two decades Head chef Thomas Erkelenz leads the grand Martindale Hall and the sleepy town through partnerships with the likes of the kitchen team at Bush DeVine. of Mintaro and its maze. Art Gallery of New South Wales. “His approach to food is a lot like our The Clare is also home to several The sculpture collection is a step towards approach to winemaking,” the Pauletts say. renowned markets. They include Auburn an ambition to create an arts precinct at “He takes the best seasonal produce and Market at the Auburn RSL on the third the winery. combines it to create dishes that speak for Sunday of each month from 9am-1pm. themselves. He is also a keen forager – and Artists featured include Keizo Ushio, one can tell you where the best local bounty The region is also a creative hub. of Japan’s most highly regarded sculptors, can be found.” Throughout the year, sculptures, South Australian Greg Johns, and Ron paintings, and jewellery can be found in Gomboc, who was born in Ljubljana, former The menu changes regularly, and the region’s many galleries, restaurants, Yugoslavia, now Slovenia. seasonally, but contains dishes that can be wineries, and pubs. matched with glasses of wine from the cellar. See www.taylorswines.com.au/sculpture- Visitors can discover a wide range of collection Menu items could include the likes of artwork by visiting Art @ Auburn, the grilled figs, blue cheese, and autumn Burra Regional Art Gallery, Irongate Studio A DEVINE EXPERIENCE leaves; chardonnay tea-smoked pork belly, Gallery, and the Art Gallery at Pikes Wines. green onion pancake, native myrtle hoisin, FOR almost four decades Neil and Allison roasted barramundi with gum leaf-smoked STAY ON A STATION Paulett have crafted wines at their family ham hock, brassicas and white beans, or winery at Polish Hill. whole-wheat pappardelle, native thyme, THE Clare Valley offers the chance to stay beef cheek, cauliflower, and kale. in a beautifully renovated cottage on the In recent years, the tourism experience sprawling 7000-acre Bungaree Station has expanded with the addition of the See www.paulettwines.com.au/ farming property. acclaimed Bush DeVine restaurant. Settled in 1841, Bungaree became the headquarters of one of Australia’s most 52 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

travelbriefs successful sheep flocks, running 100,000 Hotel, making it over 150 years old. It was feasts for group bookings. The Farm Feast merino sheep at a time when the country opened by Anton Kranewitter, the brother highlights vegetables from Penobscot was said to “ride on the sheep’s back”. of Father Kranewitter. In 1918 the hotel’s Farm, lamb from Martindale Farm and name was changed from Black Eagle to Greenslade’s free-range chicken for $60 a The property remains the home of the Sevenhill and today there is a friendly head, while the Gourmet Feast is a step up fourth, fifth and sixth generations of the vibe under managers Paul Longbottom to dishes such as ceviche, carpaccio, and Hawker family. George and Sally Hawker and Kate Shadiac. tomahawk steak for $90 a head. have handed over the reins for the day-to- day management of the farming activities The Sevenhill Hotel is a versatile venue Alliteratively, there is an a la carte menu, to their son Edward, while their daughter with many different nooks and crannies. along with a beverage list that promotes Vicky manages the hospitality business Clare Valley products. A wine flight with her husband Mark Stewart. Think pub grub like salt and pepper experience can be booked between 5-7pm squid, steaks and schnitzels, or maybe for $40 that includes stuffed olives. This Accommodation includes the Stallion’s something a bit more adventurous like features four wines selected to celebrate Box, perfect for a couple; The Groom’s Tennessee smoked pork tacos. the diversity of Clare Valley terroir. Quarters, available as either a two- or four- bedroom self-contained apartment; There is a wine list that would put many The wine list showcases a range of The Lodge, once the gatekeeper’s cottage city venues to shame with offerings from Watervale rieslings and no fewer than 25 and for a small family or group of friends; locals including Wines by KT, Claymore, different grape varieties grown in the region. and the Council Chambers, which can Crabtree, Grosset, Jim Barry, Kilikanoon, accommodate up to five people. Mitchell, Mocandunda, Sevenhill and Pikes, The Watervale Hotel also has its own six- along many others. bedroom guesthouse next door that can There are several other cottages available, sleep up to six couples. Farm tours, in-house while the Shearers Quarters can cater for See www.sevenhillhotel.com.au/ chefs or dining packages can be added. groups of up to 25 people who are seeking a more rustic “camping with comfort” GOTTA LOVE A LOCAL See https://watervalehotel.com.au/ experience. See https://bungareestation. com.au/ JUST about every town in regional Australia Top left: Exterior of Bungaree Station Homestead. would like to have a “local” like the Top right: Friendly staff at The Watervale Hotel. SEVENHILL DELIVERS Watervale Hotel. Above: Exterior dining area at The Watervale Hotel. Opposite page top left: View at Taylors Wines. LOOKING for an “old school” Australian The up-market pub offers a wide range Opposite page bottom right: Burra regional art gallery. pub with a family-friendly vibe and a wide of drinks, several special spaces, gourmet selection of local wines? The Sevenhill food offerings and a lovely beer garden. Hotel certainly delivers on all those counts. The hotel is part of a culinary project for The well-stocked cellar is a popular Nicola Palmer, whose family used to own feature while the outdoor area is ideal for Skillogalee Wines, and former wine industry family dining with room for the kids to play entrepreneur Warrick Duthy. on the lawns. The couple purchased the local pub in The town of Sevenhill was named 2017 and have subsequently renovated in honour of the Seven Hills of Rome, and extended it into a regional showcase. Italy. The town was established in 1851 The hotel’s premium experience is the Six by Father Aloysius Kranewitter, of St Senses Penobscot Farm Tour followed by a Aloysius Church. The Sevenhill Hotel six-course degustation dinner. Each course opened in 1863 as the “Black Eagle” can be matched to Clare Valley wines or farm produce mocktails. The couple recommends shared-plate July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 53

55 TASTED 44 AWARDED CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS Clare is an often overlooked region in South Australia when Skillogalee Jim Barry compared with its more out there neighbours, Barossa and Trevarrick Clare ‘Expressions by Tom McLaren Vale. This is a shame as it produces excellent cabernets Valley Riesling 2021 Barry’ Clare Valley and shiraz and arguably Australia’s finest rieslings. Here is a HHH1/2 92pts Malbec 2021 shapshot of what it can deliver. A delicate and refreshing HHHH 95pts sweet floral/tropical fruit A lovely bright SPARKLING Skillogalee Reillys Museum style with toasty notes “crunchy” wine with Clare Valley Release Clare Valley starting to develop. Very attractive vibrant cassis 1 TASTED Gewurztraminer Riesling 2016 appealing! $54 fruit, good level of acid 1 AWARDED 2021 HHH1/2 92pts HHHHH 98pts and pleasant grippy Musky perfumed This wine is a delicious Gomersal Clare tannins. $30 One good example of bouquet and good merger of buttered Valley Riesling 2021 Artwine Pack a sparkling red from an persistence of fresh toast, brown limes and HHH 91pts Leader Clare Valley unusual variety. “This spicy flavours on jasmine. The nose is In the ripe fruit spectrum Cabernet Franc will be a crowd pleaser the nicely structured toasty and nutty and with slight floral notes, 2021 HHHH 95pts with a nice balance of palate. $28 the delicious palate a hint of phenolics and Herbaceous, spicy and sweetness and tannins,” has beautifully aged lively acidity. $20 earthy aromas that said one judge. RIESLING characters. $45 follow through to the Reillys Watervale Jim Barry well-structured palate Artwine La 10 TASTED Clare Valley Riesling ‘Expressions by with tight acid and firm Dolce Vita Clare 8 AWARDED 2010 HHHHH 98pts Tom Barry’ Clare tannins. $40 Valley Sparkling A fragrant complexity Valley Riesling 2021 Reillys Dry Land Montepulciano NV Excellent class with of brown limes, toast HHH 91pts Clare Valley HHH1/2 92pts 2021 performing well and nuts with delicate A citrus lift to the nose Tempranillo 2019 Attractive sweet dark along with good two herbal nuances followed and a tight bright palate HHHH 94pts fruit/fig aromas and a examples of older wines by a gorgeous nutty with lovely fresh fruit Dark dense “chewy” sweet fruit palate with which show how well caramelized-like palate intensity. $30 wine layered with powerful tannins and a this variety ages. “Some that is still lively. $45 plum/rhubarb fruit, chalky finish. $35 beautiful wines here,” Gaelic Cemetery OTHER RED spices and earthy/ commented one judge. Vineyard White Hut VARIETALS & savoury elements with OTHER WHITE Clare Valley Riesling BLENDS abundant tannins. $32 VARIETALS Skillogalee Clare 2021 HHHH 94pts Artwine Pack Valley Riesling 2021 Toasty honeyed aromas 9 TASTED Leader Clare Valley 3 TASTED HHHHH 98pts with a light citrus lift 5 AWARDED Cabernet Franc 2 AWARDED A pleasant soft and very and a finely focussed 2020 HHH1/2 93pts approachable style with and flavoursome palate A solid group of A lovely brooding fruit Some nice varietals estery floral fragrances with everything in alternative varieties with nose followed by a here with freshness and and great varietal fruit balance. $36 the higher scoring wines generous black fruit balance obvious. intensity on the long Reillys Watervale showing good varietal driven palate with soft lingering palate with its Clare Valley Riesling characters while others grainy tannins. $40 Artwine Wicked fine line of crisp acidity. 2021 HHH1/2 92pts offered drinkable dry Artwine Leave Your Stepmother Clare $27 Soft, rounded and a reds. “A few exhibited Hat On Clare Valley Valley Fiano 2021 fuller bodied riesling attractive aromas but Montepulciano 2020 HHH1/2 93pts with plenty of pretty were let down with low HHH 91pts Herbaceous nose with lifted musky/tropical fruit flavour palates,” said A good savoury food nutty toffee notes. characters. $28 one judge. wine showing a firm Soft and creamy in the acid line and some nice mouth with good varietal chewy tannins. $40 flavour profile. $35 54 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

rreeggi oi onnaal l ttaasstti ni ngg GRENACHE & Artwine Grumpy Reillys Barking Erin Eyes Wines Paulett Wines BLENDS Old Man Clare Mad Clare Valley Ballycapple Clare 109 Clare Valley Valley Grenache Cabernet 2016 Valley Cabernet Shiraz 2018 5 TASTED 2021 HHH 91pts HHHHH 98pts Sauvignon 2020 HHHH1/2 97pts 5 AWARDED Lifted floral red fruit A sumptuous dark HHH 91pts Powerful spicy characters with brooding number that’s An herbaceous, earthy blackcurrant fruit on the Solid flight of grenache assertive acid and talcy ageing beautifully and and minty nose and a nose and palate with wines. “Two styles tannins. $40 has an intensity of pleasant mint chocolate licorice elements and an here – the bright prunes and spices on palate. $30 herbal edge. Good line contemporary fresh Reillys Old both the nose and palate of savoury tannins. Still jubey fruit ones and Bushvine Clare with a good backbone of SHIRAZ & very youthful. $120 the more traditional Valley Grenache drying tannins. $20 BLENDS Reillys Dry Land big bodied, oak driven 2018 HHH 91pts Paulett Wines Clare Clare Valley wines,” noted one Complex floral Valley Cabernet 19 TASTED Shiraz 2018 judge. fragrances and a chewy Sauvignon 2020 16 AWARDED HHHH1/2 96pts tannic palate with some HHHH1/2 96pts A very appealing Reillys leathery-like age. $32 Lovely layered spicy/ An excellent and dense rich shiraz with Barking Mad Clare woody nose with lifted consistent class of a perfumed fruit lift to Valley Grenache CABERNET & florals and a dense, full wines. “The best the nose and powerful Shiraz 2018 BLENDS bodied and chewy palate showed excellent sweet fruit flavour HHHH1/2 97pts – all spicy and savoury balance between fruit profile with a long An interesting 8 TASTED with a tight grippy depth and oak handling,” toasty finish. $38 complexity of earthy, 7 AWARDED structure. $30 said one judge. “The Reillys Epitaph Clare mushroom and plum Reillys The Dancer hallmark for this variety Valley Shiraz 2018 aromas with a generous “Great to see that the Clare Valley is bright fruit that holds HHHH1/2 96pts multi-layered palate older cabernets here Cabernet 2018 its vibrancy.” Intense inky red wine showing a strong oak were still vibrant and full HHHH 95pts with beguiling spicy/ influence. $20 of varietal character,” Spicy/meaty Reillys Rouge Clare toasty fragrances noted one judge. “The complexity to the nose Valley Shiraz 2019 and a big soft fruit Paulett Wines younger wines are also with a chocolaty, oak HHHHH 98pts driven palate with an Brielle Clare Valley well structured and will driven palate showing An inky black wine with abundance of oak and Grenache 2021 age well.” hints of brambles. bright red highlights warming alcohol. $80 HHH1/2 93pts Great length. $65 and a brooding brambly Gaelic Cemetery Lifted perfumed fruit Gaelic Cemetery Paulett Wines bouquet. The palate is Vineyard Celtic fragrances and good Vineyard McAskill 109 Clare Valley complex and decadently Farm Clare Valley palate weight with firm Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon rich with mouth- Shiraz Cabernet juicy fruit flavours and Cabernet Malbec 2020 HHHH 94pts puckering tannins and a 2020 HHHH 95pts stalky notes. $52 2020 HHHHH 98pts Minty bouquet with savoury aftertaste. $50 A modern style of Powerful blackcurrant/ slight tobacco notes. wine that is sitting Artwine Grumpy Old Ribena fruit influence Medium weight palate, Skillogalee in the blueberry fruit Man Clare Valley here with minty/ good acid backbone Trevarrick Clare spectrum. Plenty of Grenache 2020 leafy elements, dark and with the mintiness Valley Shiraz 2020 acid, lots of oak and HHH1/2 92pts chocolaty notes and coming through. $120 HHHH1/2 97pts plush tannins. $28 A traditional style chewy tannins all nicely Reillys Dry Land Very attractive aromas Gaelic Cemetery grenache with slightly wrapped up with some Clare Valley reminiscent of Ribena Vineyard McAskill stewed-like plum fruit, crisp acidity. $55 Cabernet 2018 and deli meats. A Clare Valley Shiraz plenty of oak and dusty HHHH 94pts full-bodied palate 2020 HHHH 94pts tannins. $40 Intense varietal sweet with berry fruit Generous tannic wine. bouquet; a touch balanced by a strong oak Strong colour, ripe leafy with violet notes influence. A classic. $75 jubey fruit bouquet and and a dark brooding rich fruit flavours with complexity of fruit assertive tannins. Needs cake-like flavours. $38 time. $55 JUDGES Susan Mickan Jack Walker Matt O’Leary Winemaker. Has worked 34 Winemaker for O’Leary Chief winemaker vintages including across Walker Wines. Has for Savitas Wines in Australia, New Zealand, previously worked the Barossa Valley. China, Spain. Some at Peter Lehmanns, Formerly Senior wineries including Kirrihill, Wattle Creek, DeBortoli, Winemaker for Wolf Pernod Ricard, Penfolds, Seppeltsfield, Josef Blass Wines. Judge Helan Mountain (China) Chromy. Has also judged at the Barossa wine and Cambo Viego. Judged at the Clare Valley wine show. Panelist at at numerous wine shows show and Kangaroo the Advanced Wine around Australia. Island wine show. Assessment Course. July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 55

CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS Reillys Barking Mad Gaelic Cemetery Paulett Wines 109 STAR RATINGS  Clare Valley Shiraz Vineyard White Hut Clare Valley Shiraz 2018 HHHH 94pts Clare Valley Shiraz 2020 HHH 91pts Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of A big style of shiraz with 2020 HHH1/2 92pts Blue fruit nose with excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. a generosity of rich dark Bright spicy oak/ forest floor notes and a All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry licoricey fruits, strong fruit nose. Full bodied brooding complexity of professionals and are compared in peer toasty oak and a long plummy/oaky palate, fruit flavours. $120 classes by three judges. warming finish. $20 tight acid spine and lots Paulett Wines 109 CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Skillogalee Take of tannins. $36 Clare Valley Shiraz a major mail-order business. Two Clare Valley Erin Eyes Wines 2019 HHH 91pts CD Cellar door price. Shiraz Cabernet Blarney Stone Clare Has lifted blackcurrant CDO Cellar door only. Sauvignon 2017 Valley Shiraz 2020 aromas that follow SO Sold out. HHH1/2 93pts HHH 91pts through onto the firm $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Slightly chocolaty nose Earthy/spicy/plum aromas tannic palate. $120  Contact information pg 87. with a hint of mint and that follow through onto Reillys Clare Valley nicely developing choc the medium weight Shiraz 2018 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). mint flavour profile. $27 palate. $30 HHH 91pts BEST VALUE for $20 & under Paulett Wines Clare Erin Eyes Wines Rich syrupy rum and and NZ $25 & under. Valley Shiraz 2020 Stone of Destiny raisin chocolate bar of For a complete list of what we tasted HHH1/2 92pts Clare Valley a shiraz with an oaky please refer to www.winestate.com.au Intense spicy raspberry Shiraz Malbec finish. $25 bouquet and a generous 2020 HHH 91pts chewy juicy fruit palate. Lifted floral fruit Good weight and fragrances; gentle concentration. $30 strawberry/raspberry flavours. “Has good bones!” $30 a YOUR SPECIALIST IN VINEYARD & WINERY INSURANCE & MORE We can provide coverage for: - vines, trellis systems & irrigation; - grape damage, hail, frost and fire; - winery equipment; - wine in storage, transit and spillage; - public and product liability; - vineyard and farm equipment; - wine recall costs and faulty wine, - all other general areas of insurance. AUSTRALIA WIDE 0409 877 244 [email protected] www.robertsinsurance.com.au Get a quote today! @robertsinsuranceproviders Roberts Insurance Providers Pty Ltd is a Corporate Authorised Representative of Resilium Insurance Broking Pty Ltd ABN 92169975973 AFSL No. 460382 56 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

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travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN RIVER REGIONS - SA, VIC & NSW REWARDING DESTINATION One way to enjoy the area’s Italian roots WILDLIFE AND WINE is via the menu at Zeccca Handmade GRIFFITH, in the Riverina region of Italian, a casual eatery housed in a 1930s HOW about combining winery visits with southwest New South Wales is a surprisingly Art Deco building. Its tagliatelle, rigatoni a guided multi-activity wildlife adventure rewarding gourmet destination with many and pappardelle and other artisanal pasta exploring the Murray River and Riverland wineries dotted around the town. shapes are made with Riverina wheat and Ramsar Wetland - the latest addition to the restaurant also serves lesser-known Australian Wildlife Journeys Collective. Griffith and surrounds are home to award- Italian dishes (such as raschiatelli from winning vineyards, a bakery selling biscotti Basilicata). The wine list features Riverina Part of the Murray River Trails portfolio made from a century-old Italian recipe and wines made with Italian varietals. launched by Tony and Susie Sharley in 2016, memorable paddock-to-plate experiences. the Murray River Safari is a three-day, two- Local chef Luke Piccolo runs Limone Dining, night guided wildlife experience based out Griffith has a strong food and wine culture, which also highlights the Riverina’s produce of Renmark in South Australia, combining partly thanks to the European population on its menus: perhaps a Berkshire cutlet with the comforts of houseboat accommodation that settled in the area after World War almond and miso purée sourced from Wagga with immersive nature activities including 1. There are also regular events like the Free Range Pork, or a semifreddo flavoured canoeing, bushwalking, creek cruising, popular Griffith Italian festival. with liquorice from nearby Junee. nature drives and birdwatching. The winemaking history of Griffith dates to Nearly two-thirds of Griffith’s population have Boasting one of the most picturesque 1928, when Vittorio De Bortoli saw promise Italian roots - a connection that stems back to sections of Australia’s longest river, the in the glut of shiraz grapes that other farmers the 1880s, but strengthened dramatically in Riverland Ramsar Wetland area includes an were discarding in the region. What he the 1930s, when migrants from Sicily, Calabria 80km section of the Murray River and has bottled led to local demand for his business, and other districts arrived in significant over 200km of meandering creeks. De Bortoli Wines, and nearly a century - and numbers and made the region home. several generations later - his family is still The Murray River Safari accommodates tending to vines at their Bilbul Estate. This cultural exchange has especially up to 10 people, to ensure minimal benefited the food scene. Try fourth- wildlife disturbance and allow in- Head to the cellar door to hear about the generation bakery Bertoldo’s Pasticceria for depth interpretation and personalised company’s history and to enjoy a bottle under cannoli, coffee, bread and more. This family- conversations to take place between a pergola in the garden. run business sells 27 tonnes of gelato a year. guests and guides. Yarran Wines is a boutique winery For a paddock-to-plate experience, stop A menu by chef Andrew Fielke is provided overlooking Cocoparra National Park and off at Piccolo Family Farm at Lake Wyangan. throughout the trip, with a creative native its intimate size allows for tailored tastings This working farm supplies its restaurant, twist on local produce, matched with and personalised group bookings. Berton Limone Dining, with sustainably grown premium local wines. Vineyards is another producer of good herbs, fruits and vegetables. value award winning wines that is well worth The Murray River Safari operates between checking out. March and November. “We are delighted to join a national collective that not only celebrates the importance of sharing our diverse natural landscapes, climatic zones, and amazing fauna across Australia, but provides opportunities for guests to contribute to a better future for wildlife across our most critical ecosystems,” said Tony Sharley, managing director of Murray River Trails. The tour includes private pontoon cruising for spotting koalas and kangaroos, 58 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

travelbriefs pelicans and swans, guided woodlands a cool industrial-style interior, this is a lively The region’s diverse cultural and economic and a cliff walk spotting whistlers, wedge- spot for a cocktail and a bite to eat from its identity was firmly established following the tailed eagles, honeyeaters and parrots, globally inspired menu. Stay for the cheery arrival of the soldier settlers and the post- a private guided canoeing trip along vibes with live music every Sunday or try war migrants from Italy, Ireland, Greece, tranquil backwaters, and a driving safari the bottomless mimosa lunch on weekends. England and the former Yugoslavia, who through dunes. There is lodge-style brought with them traditional cultivation accommodation for two nights on a An authentic Italian restaurant, Giuseppe’s skills that helped to make Mildura the food modern houseboat, and all meals and was born from a passion for traditional bowl it is today. drinks are included. Italian cooking. With freshly made pizzas, handcrafted gnocchi and rich sauces Mildura was soon the main town of the SALAMI SALUTATIONS made from the freshest ingredients, the district and in 1937 it officially became a city. menu is inspired by family recipes that have Today, Mildura is a bright, thriving regional SNACK fiends and Italian food lovers been handed down through generations of centre, and the surrounding Sunraysia district will want to visit the Murray River Salami Giuseppe’s family, who migrated here from has a population of over 50,000. Festival, a one-day event dedicated to the Southern Italian region of Calabria. cured meat held each November. One of the major regional drawcards The Uneke Lounge, meanwhile, is housed is Trentham Estate Winery & Restaurant, The venue is Euston, a riverside town on the in one of Wagga Wagga’s most iconic family-owned and set right on the banks New South Wales-Victoria border, and you’ll corner stores, which was a dining institution of the Murray River at Trentham Cliffs, just find salami-making demonstrations, food in the 1950s and 60s, Uneke Lounge is a 15 minutes from Mildura. stalls, craft beer and wine, and kid’s rides. relaxed café serving an all-day breakfast menu and coffee. In a cosy cellar door, Trentham offers A popular event at the festival is the tastings and sales of a wide wine range. salami competition, where local meat The Thirsty Crow Brewery is a family- Visitors can dine in the restaurant, or al enthusiasts enter their wares to be judged owned and operated brewpub with over a fresco on the balcony. The panoramic views by a panel of experts. decade of experience. There is a host of of the Murray River complement the food events on the calendar including regular and wine. IT’S WINE TIME! weekly trivia and live music on Saturdays. Top left: The Mildura Riverfront. WINE time in Cootamundra just got a MILDURA MECCA Above: Murray River cruising in small groups max whole lot more glamorous after Bah Bah of 10 guests. Food & Wine opened its doors on the A vibrant regional city offering both Murray Opposite page top left: The scenic Murray River. town’s main street. River and outback experiences, Mildura in Victoria boasts it has something for everyone. Serving local Riverina wines, a selection of craft beers and cocktails, it also features As you travel around, you’ll notice an a menu of share plates showcasing the abundance of vineyards, orchards, and region’s seasonal ingredients. roadside stalls. Restaurants, wineries, cafes, and markets showcase a variety of On the other side of the Riverina, near locally produced ingredients. Booroorban, North Bundy Station Stay offers guests an authentic country living Explorer Captain Charles Sturt arrived in experience in the farm’s renovated shearer’s the area in the 1830s in the search for an quarters for up to 12 guests. inland sea. He entered the headwaters of a wide river, which he named the Darling. On a WAGGA WAGGA’S subsequent expedition he entered a mighty WONDERFUL WINE AND river, which he named the Murray. In 1830, FOOD SCENE while navigating the Murray, he came across a river junction, which he was convinced was THE Riverina town of Wagga Wagga the confluence with the Darling and hence the is home to several top-notch eateries Murray Darling was born. Settlers and drovers including Birdhouse Bar & Kitchen. began arriving in the area, bringing cattle and Featuring a sunny and leafy courtyard and sheep to graze the natural pastures. July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 59

47 TASTED 35 AWARDED RIVER REGIONS With the interest in alternative Mediterranean varietals the CHARDONNAY ROSÉ Riverlands are really coming to the fore. Here the warmer 6 TASTED climate is perfect for the wines that struggle to ripen in other 4 TASTED regions. Here we show a great snapshot of what they have to offer. 4 AWARDED 1 AWARDED OTHER WHITE De Bortoli Wines De Bortoli Wines Mixed results here with One very good example VARIETALS & Sacred Hill Riverina DBWS Riverina the better wines having with the rest being more BLENDS Semillon Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc elegance and finesse. neutral and not quite Blanc 2021 2021 HHH 90pts making the grade. 4 TASTED HHH 90pts Crisp acid driven, De Bortoli Wines 4 AWARDED Clean fresh style with nicely textured with a Sacred Hill Riverina Zilzie Wines nice varietal presence suggestion of varietal Chardonnay 2021 Selection 23 A small but solid class of and good level of crisp fruit characters. $12 HHHH 94pts Victoria Rosé 2021 well-made varietals. acidity. $7.50 Zilzie Wines An elegant example HHHH 94pts Selection 23 of the variety. Light Attractive floral 919 Reserve Zilzie Wines Liv Victoria Sauvignon honeyed peach nose fragrances with sweet Riverland Petit Lighter Victoria Blanc 2021 and good flavour cherry notes and a long Manseng 2021 Pinot Grigio 2021 HHH 90pts intensity with lime velvety palate. Good HHH1/2 92pts HHH 90pts Good commercial style notes. $7.50 acid/sweetness balance. Pungent, slightly Lightly floral/herbal that is fresh with green $12 perfumed, bouquet with aromas with an bean-like aromatics and De Bortoli Wines a rich creamy palate attractive crisp style of flavours. $12 DBWS Riverina OTHER RED exhibiting a subtle palate. $15 Grower’s Gate Chardonnay 2021 VARIETALS & flavour profile. $29 South Australia HHH 91pts BLENDS SAUVIGNON Sauvignon Blanc Pleasing balance and Salena Estate Wines BLANC 2021 HHH 90pts intensity of toasty oak 17 TASTED Ink Series Riverland Asparagus and green and varietal fruit with 14 AWARDED Vermentino 2020 4 TASTED capsicum bouquet that nice tannins. $12 HHH1/2 92pts 3 AWARDED is echoed on a slightly Excellent class of Good varietal expression austere palate. $14.95 Trentham Estate alternative varieties here of ripe herbal Good examples of this Chardonnay 2021 showing the warmer characters mixing with variety produced in HHH 91pts regions having an white floral notes. $25 warmer regions. Sweet citrus bouquet advantage in this with perfumed notes category. and an attractive varietal palate. $18 De Bortoli Wines Deen De Bortoli Riverina Chardonnay 2020 HHH 90pts A richer, toasty, honeyed style with sweet floral notes and good oak background. $14.95 JUDGES Eric Semmler Russell Johnson Marco Sollazzo Proprietor of 919 Wine CEO of Russell Johnson Winemaker for Zilzie Company. Formerly Consulting, for wine wines. Has a master in winemaker for the Hardy & spirit research and Viticulture & Oenological Wine Company. Previously development. Formerly Science, Turin. Previously with Brown Brothers wine division technical worked in Italy for and Auldstone Cellars. manager of Beringer Blass Fontana Candida, Riserva Has spent eight years as Wine Estates. Eight years’ della Cascina & Tenuta fortified winemaker for experience as production il Bosco. Judged at the Hardys. Associate judge at manager with Seagram Alternative Varieties and Rutherglen, McLaren Vale Spirits. Adelaide Wine Show Inland River Wine Show. and Riverland shows. judge in the brandy class. AWRI graduate. 60 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

regional tasting De Bortoli Wines Berton Vineyards Ella Semmler’s Trentham Estate 919 Reserve Deen De Bortoli Metal Label Orchard Riverland Shiraz 2020 Riverland Classic Riverina Durif 2019 Riverina Durif Tempranillo 2021 HHHH1/2 96pts Muscat NV HHHHH 98pts 2021 HHHH 95pts HHH 90pts Attractive lifted spicy HHHHH 98pts Dark brooding chocolate/ Dark berries and A youthful light bodied fruit nose with red Very attractive lifted berry fruit bouquet and chocolate on the nose wine with earthy fruit berries underneath. An aged Christmas cake-like great intensity of plum, and rich mulberry intensity and a tight acid elegant well-balanced characters on the nose berry and spicy flavours flavours with great line. $22 palate with great acid with great intensity of a with balanced acid/ integration between acid Step by Step South line and soft tannins in very sweet complexity tannin and good oak in a and tannins. $14 Australia Cabernet the background. $18 of interesting flavours. supporting role. $14.95 Trentham Estate Sauvignon 2020 Has a lovely freshness 919 Reserve ‘The Family’ HHH 90pts Step by Step South to it. $42 Riverland Touriga Nebbiolo 2020 Quite a tannic style with Australia Shiraz 919 Reserve Nacional 2018 HHHH 94pts spicy fruit characters on 2020 HHHH 94pts Riverland Classic HHHHH 98pts Sour cherry aromas with both nose and palate. Subtle spicy/peppery Topaque NV Intense aromas of a slight presence of $15 berry fragrances and rich HHHH 94pts cigar box, sandalwood, anise characters. Great varietal fruit flavours on A lovely example licorice and forest fruits. varietal flavours with SHIRAZ/SYRAH a long, full and well- with a generous aged Full bodied palate has a good acid/tannin line. balanced palate. $15 complexity of honeyed, complexity of dark inky $18 7 TASTED butterscotch, dried fig fruit flavours and soft Tempus Two Copper 4 AWARDED 919 Reserve and sticky date-like tannin backbone. $42 NSW Montepulciano A mixed group with Riverland Shiraz characters. $42 919 Reserve 2020 HHHH 94pts some nice youthful, 2020 HHHH 94pts 919 Limited Release Riverland Durif 2018 Red berry conserve of a drinkable shiraz wines. Confectionery berry Riverland Vintage HHHHH 98pts nose with hints of spice bouquet and a huge dark Fortified 2020 A huge, intense but and pepper. An elegant Sixty Eight Roses rich berry fruit palate HHHH 94pts well-balanced style that palate rich in flavour with Riverland Syrah with good alcohol/tannin An elegant berry/brandy has a brooding intensity firm tannins. $35 2022 HHHH1/2 balance. $42 nose with a spicy lift of dark berry and plum Trentham Estate 96pts and generous warming fruit-like characters on Merlot 2021 Savoury toasty oak FORTIFIEDS red fruit flavours on the the nose and on the long HHH1/2 92pts nose with spicy red fruit balanced palate. $50 lingering palate. $45 Minty red berry bouquet beneath. Very attractive 5 TASTED 919 Reserve Tempus Two with plum notes and and approachable fresh 5 AWARDED Riverland Classic Copper NSW firm persistent minty red fruity palate. Some Tawny NV Montepulciano 2021 berry flavours. $18 sweetness with subtle A strong class of HHH1/2 92pts HHHH1/2 97pts Salena Estate oak. $35 fortifieds; well-made A nicely ageing style; Rich savoury meaty Wines ex-PRESS-ion and showing the value very elegant showing aromas with spicy berry Riverland Touriga of warm regions to great complexity of notes. The palate has 2020 HHH1/2 92pts produce these styles. sweet fruit, oak and intense flavours in the A lighter style of wine caramel. $40 gamey meat profile with with sweet Muscat-like 919 Reserve fruity notes. Slightly dry nose and great spicy floral Riverland Pale finish. $35 varietal flavours. $25 Dry Apera NV 919 Reserve Tempus Two Copper HHH 91pts Riverland NSW Graciano Soft, fresh and enjoyable Touriga Nacional Tempranillo 2020 to drink with nutty green Tempranillo 2021 HHH1/2 92pts apple characters. $40 HHHH1/2 96pts A harmonious blend with Attractive red berry a cherry/berry bouquet bouquet with floral and invitingly dark berry touches and hints of flavour profile. $35 dried herbs. Long firm Trentham Estate palate with a richness ‘The Family’ Nero and persistence of D’Avola 2019 varietal flavours. $40 HHH1/2 92pts Expressive dark berry nose with potpourri notes and persistent pungent spicy flavours. $18 July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 61

77 TASTED 64 AWARDED SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED Some say that these wines are a dying art which is ridiculous NOBLE Tempus Two Pewter given the world class quality that we see with the best wines of BOTRYTIS Hunter Valley these styles. It is true that it does require a level of expertise that WINES Botrytis Semillon not all winemakers can achieve at the highest level but the effort 2015 HHHH 95pts is well worth the result. 11 TASTED Pronounced honeyed 9 AWARDED varietal aromatics and a MOSCATO The Drover Riverina Giesen The Brothers long, full-bodied, palate Moscato 2021 Marlborough Late A strong class. These filling the mouth with 5 TASTED HHH 90pts Harvest Sauvignon are botrytis wines with flavour. $30 3 AWARDED Refreshing fruit driven Blanc 2015 (750ml) high quality fruit that Hollick Estates The wine with some HHHH 94pts is strong yet elegant Nectar Coonawarra Some nice quaffers aromatics and residual Gentle lifted botrytis and winemakers Botrytis Riesling here; easy drinking sweetness. $9 aromas with a generous, who understand the 2021 HHHH 94pts without fruit lift. well rounded and full- style. “Some of these Honeyed citrus nose OTHER SWEET bodied palate loaded offer great ageing with apricot notes Trentham Estate WHITE STYLES with fruit flavours. $NA opportunity,” suggested and nice balance of The Family Moscato Tomich Limited one judge. sweetness to acidity on 2021 HHH 91pts 7 TASTED Release the elegant palate. $27 A floral nose with a 4 AWARDED Adelaide Hills Saddler’s Creek De Bortoli Wines lovely soft, creamy and Gewurtztraminer Riverina Botrytis Deen De Bortoli well-balanced palate. A mixed group with the Riesling 2021 Semillon 2019 Riverina Botrytis $18 better wines showing HHH1/2 92pts HHHH1/2 96pts Semillon 2018 good fruit characters Dried apricot nose with Intense pome fruit (375ml) HHHH 94pts 2 Monkeys Riverina and a balance between raisined notes and some fragrances with honeyed Tropical fruit nose with Moscato 2021 sugar and acid. complexity of honeyed tropical nuances honeyed aromatics HHH 90pts apricot flavours. $35 and very rich and developing. A lovely A sweet style that flavoursome sweet fruit softness to the rich finishes quite dry with Truffle Hill Gralyn Estate palate with a fresh acid sweet palate. $16.95 pretty floral characters. Pemberton Margaret River line to balance. $40 De Beaurepaire $9 Cane Cut Riesling Late Harvest 2021 Coeur d’Or Central 2020 (375ml) HHH 90pts De Bortoli Wines Ranges Botrytis HHHHH 98pts Lightly tropical aromas Noble One Semillon 2021 Attractive lifted honeyed with fresh lime flavours Riverina Botrytis HHH1/2 92pts apricot bouquet and on the soft rounded Semillon 2019 Well-made wine with very flavoursome palate. $35 HHHH1/2 96pts a rich botrytis lift, fresh botrytis driven palate A deep golden, full apricot-like fruit and with a good level of bodied, wine - very tannins balancing the acid to balance out the sweet, very flavoursome sugar. $55 sweetness. $35 with citrus/pineapple characters and very good underlying acidity. $69.95 JUDGES Eric Semmler Russell Johnson Marco Sollazzo Proprietor of 919 Wine CEO of Russell Johnson Winemaker for Zilzie Company. Formerly Consulting, for wine wines. Has a master in winemaker for the Hardy & spirit research and Viticulture & Oenological Wine Company. Previously development. Formerly Science, Turin. Previously with Brown Brothers wine division technical worked in Italy for and Auldstone Cellars. manager of Beringer Blass Fontana Candida, Riserva Has spent eight years as Wine Estates. Eight years’ della Cascina & Tenuta fortified winemaker for experience as production il Bosco. Judged at the Hardys. Associate judge at manager with Seagram Alternative Varieties and Rutherglen, McLaren Vale Spirits. Adelaide Wine Show Inland River Wine Show. and Riverland shows. judge in the brandy class. AWRI graduate. 62 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

varietal tasting Heggies Vineyard Gralyn Estate Gumpara Wines VINTAGE TAWNY Eden Valley Botrytis Margaret River Barossa Valley PORT Riesling 2021 Pedro Ximenez NV Liqueur Semillon 13 TASTED HHH 91pts HHHH 94pts NV HHHH 94pts 3 TASTED 12 AWARDED Candied floral nose “Great example of a A rich creamy nutty style 3 AWARDED and palate with lovely black sherry style.” with good, aged fruit A small group showing An excellent, consistent balance of sweet tropical Luscious intensity of intensity and elements good fruit expression class of wines – well- fruit and acidity. $27 caramel, spices and of caramel, dates and and the difference made and blended honey with hints of baked apples. $32 between ageing of the skilfully. “These are Rylstone Estate apple pie. $60 Patritti Rare various vintages. superb examples of Bluebird Central McLaren 919 Wines Limited Australian tawny (port) Ranges Botrytis FORTIFIED Vale Fortified Edition Riverland styles,” said one judge. Viognier 2019 STYLES Chardonnay NV Vintage Fortified “It is encouraging to HHH 91pts HHHH 94pts 2020 HHHHH 98pts see these skills are still Toasty honeyed aromas 12 TASTED A lovely fortified sweet A relatively drier style with alive and well in the with an attractive honey/ 8 AWARDED white with some great subtle blackberry fruit industry.” toffee driven palate. $40 aged characters. A fruit expression, floral hints The better wines here driven nose and intense and spicy notes. “Very Morris of Rutherglen Trentham Estate were clearly balanced sweet flavours. $40 feminine,” noted one Old Premium Reserve Noble with good fruit intensity, Reillys Clare judge. Great blending and Rutherglen VIC Taminga 2015 spirit selection and Fortified Shiraz spirit use. $50 Rare Tawny NV HHH 90pts youthful freshness 2008 HHHH 94pts Gapsted Wines HHHHH 98pts Fruity and floral nose maintaining vibrancy Great persistence Alpine Valleys A rich yet elegant style with citrus notes and but there were some of ageing ribena-like Vintage Touriga showing exceptional age an elegant, sweet citrus hit and miss wines aromas and flavours 2018 HHH1/2 93pts with raisined leathery fruit flavour profile. $18 either with poor spirit with an attractive spicy Lifted richness of plum fragrances, vibrant and selection or made as an lift and soft tannins. $30 aromas and generous generous flavours and APERA afterthought. Gumpara Wines red fruit flavours. Offers skilful winemaking. $100 (SHERRY) Barossa Valley easy drinking. $31 De Bortoli Wines Liqueur Frontignac Yalumba 21-Year- 2 TASTED Black Noble Riverina NV (500ml) Henley Park Wines Old South Eastern 2 AWARDED Botrytis Semillon HHH1/2 92pts Swan Valley Australia Aged NV HHHH1/2 97pts A complex style ageing Vintage Port 2011 Tawny NV A couple of very good Gorgeous nose – all beautifully with attractive HHH 90pts HHHH1/2 96pts examples here showing caramel, dark fruits and floral, caramel and Aged fruit characters Rich yet elegant tawny a traditional style fino coffee. The palate is honeyed notes. $32 on the nose with a soft, with raisined aromas and a black (sherry) style rich and sweet and full 919 Wines Latin well developed, palate. and leathery aged notes. with luscious intensity. of lovely ageing fruit Collection Riverland Drink now. $40 Great palate length with flavours. “Very easy to Ruby Fortified NV a balance of rich spicy 919 Wines Reserve drink!” $45 HHH 91pts fruit flavours and good Riverland Pale Marmalade aromatics spirit use. $79 Dry Apera NV with sweet/spicy red HHHH1/2 96pts fruit flavours. Good spirit Patritti South Lovely pungency of flor selection. $20 Australia Rare characters on the nose Jaeschkes Hill River Tawny NV melding with bread Clare Estate Limited HHHH1/2 95pts dough, nut and apple Release Clare Valley A drier, full bodied, characters. A crisp Fortified Shiraz tannic style with a lovely uncomplicated palate. 2016 HHH 91pts intensity of ageing True to style. $40 Rich plum nose with chocolate/caramel some leathery aged characters and good notes and a sweet full- spiciness edged with bodied palate. $50 hints of citrus rind. $40 Patritti Vintage McLaren Vale 919 Wines Fortified Shiraz Reserve Riverland 2018 HHH 90pts Classic Tawny NV A drier style with HHHH 94pts elegant spicy shiraz Drying and tannic with fruit and brandy spirit attractive intensity of nuances. $30 sweet, preserved fruit characters laced with spicy elements. $40 July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 63

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED Henley Park Wines Morris of Rutherglen Morris of Rutherglen Buller Wines Morris of Rutherglen Swan Valley Rutherglen VIC Old Premium Victoria Fine Old Old Premium Old Tawny NV Classic Tawny NV Rutherglen VIC Topaque NV Rutherglen VIC HHHH 94pts HHH 91pts Rare Topaque NV HHH 90pts Rare Muscat NV A promising style; a A sweet and creamy HHHHH 98pts Young, simple and HHHHH 98pts conglomeration of nuts, tawny that is rich with A beautiful and unique somewhat austere style “Liquid gold,” said one spices, oak and tobacco spicy chocolaty aromas example of a very old with nice nuttiness. judge. “Wine history aged characters with hints and flavours. $25 aged topaque with “Easy to drink!” $28 in the making,” said of sweet mocha. $40 pronounced aromas another. Dark and Buller Wines Gumpara Wines and amazing lusciously MUSCAT chocolaty nose with Victoria Fine Barossa Valley rich and creamy in the great caramel intensity Old Tawny NV Tawny Grenache NV mouth. A sophisticated 17 TASTED to the lusciously aged HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts number! $100 16 AWARDED palate. $100 Nutty spicy characters Sweet and creamy – Campbells Isabella “Another group of Campbells Merchant developing on the nose rich and weighty with Rutherglen Rare exceptional wines,” Prince Rutherglen with slightly austere spicy chocolaty fruit Topaque NV enthused one judge. Muscat NV palate and tight acid characters. $32 HHHHH 98pts “This is Australian HHHHH 98pts line. $28 A very rich and history in a bottle!” A dark, luscious and Cat Amongst The Arthur Wines extremely old product “The older wines have beautifully aged product. Pigeons Fat Cat Reserve Margaret that is a delicious amazing, aged material Intense raisined/toffee Barossa Valley River Tawny NV complexity of toffee, which is a privilege to bouquet and very rich Tawny NV HHH 90pts caramel and raisined enjoy,” said another. concentration of flavours HHH1/2 92pts Lovely berry fruit fruit with tea leaf-like “Do yourself a favour that linger across the Traditional fruit driven characters transitioning elements and the and get a bottle to try. length of the palate. style with soft subtle to chocolaty plum perfect acid balance. These wines are made $140 presence of raisined elements. $35 $140 by producers who fruit. Good acid line. $29 Buller Wines are passionate about Gralyn Estate Gralyn Estate Reillys Blue Tonga Rutherglen Grand producing this style. Museum Margaret Margaret River Clare Tawny NV Topaque NV Awesome!” River Rare Muscat Rare Tawny NV HHH 90pts HHHHH 98pts NV HHHHH 98pts HHH1/2 92pts An elegant and A very well-made wine Gralyn Estate Another very beautifully A full-bodied wine with somewhat tannic, with beautifully complex Artizan Margaret aged Muscat with a great age expression chocolaty red fruit style aged characters. A great River Rare Muscat fabulous intensity of reminiscent of rich of tawny. $40 melange of butterscotch, NV HHHHH 98pts Christmas cake-like liqueur chocolate. Good figs and dates with This vibrant nose shows aromas and flavours and acidity. $60 TOPAQUE excellent crisp acidity a powerful lift of raisins, a long and lingering after balancing it all out. $150 spices, florals, toffee and taste. $160 7 TASTED Campbells chocolate with a fresh 7 AWARDED Rutherglen Grand palate that is not too dry Topaque NV and not too sweet but Outstanding! “These HHHH 94pts just perfect! $95 are exceptional quality Dark tannic style – wines from the quite rich with fruit and producers of this style,” showing aged toffee said one judge. “They notes adding a nice level are excellent examples of complexity. $70 for drinking at their Morris of Rutherglen optimum even after Rutherglen VIC being opened for 10 Classic Topaque NV days!” HHH1/2 92pts Luscious elegance of raisined fruit with hints of toffee and honeycomb-like aged notes. $25 919 Wines Reserve Riverland Classic Topaque NV HHH 91pts Full bodied with evident sweetness, hints of roasted nuts and caramel touches. $42 64 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

varietal tasting 919 Wines Reserve Faber Vineyard De Bortoli Wines Riverland Classic Swan Valley Show Riverina Muscat NV Liqueur Muscat NV Liqueur Muscat NV HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH 94pts HHH 91pts Brooding dark fruit Lovely fruit cake-like Full flavoured Muscat expression here with intensity on the nose with caramel, raisined molasses-like aromas and the palate with a elements and nice with leathery aged notes creamy mouthfeel. A florals evident. $25 and a lusciously creamy classic style. $60 Buller Wines palate with amazing age Victoria Fine Old and good tannins. $42 Muscat NV Follow us and keep up to HHH 91pts date with all our latest Saddler’s Creek A drier version of an wine info, tastings and Riverina Rutherglen aged Muscat with fruit Rare Muscat NV cake-like characters and events on facebook, HHHH1/2 96pts crisp acidity. $28 twitter and instagram. A more elegant style of Patritti South Muscat with fruit age, Australia Rare Connect on social with sweetness, acid and Fortified Muscat NV Winestate alcohol all in perfect HHH 91pts balance edged with Luscious Muscat www.facebook.com/Winestate- attractive potpourri-like complexity here without Magazine characters. $40 being overwhelming. Good spiciness. $40 twitter.com/winestateed Buller Wines Gralyn Estate Carmine’s Wood www.instagram.com/winestate/ Rutherglen Grand Margaret River Aged Old SA Muscat Muscat NV Classic Muscat NV NV HHH 90pts www.winestate.com.au HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts Full bodied with a high A youthful style but has A simple and quite level of alcohol, a rich excellent fruit richness. dry acid driven style fruit presence and aged It has preserved fruit with lovely chocolaty florals. $45 fragrances and mouth- aromatics and intense filling sweet and creamy aged fruit flavours. $60 flavours with good spirit Arthur Wines Barrel use. $150 Aged Margaret Campbells River Muscat NV Rutherglen Grand HHH1/2 92pts Muscat NV A young fresh elegant HHHH 95pts style. Some floral Aged fruit intensity fragrances with to the nose with a complexity developing perfumed lift and on the palate. $35 similar characters echoed on the palate. Good acidity. $70 Morris of Rutherglen Rutherglen VIC Classic Muscat NV HHHH 94pts Great example of style – balanced and lively with luscious fruit richness and some attractive spiciness. $25 July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 65

25 TASTED 25 RECOMMENDED MICHAEL COOPER RECENT RELEASES New Zealand (increasingly known as Aotearoa, at least within the Radburnd Hawke’s Obsidian Estate country), is 1,600 kilometres long from north to south, so it’s no Bay Chardonnay Waiheke Island surprise it produces a diverse collection of wine styles. This tasting 2020 HHHHH 98pts Chardonnay 2020 uncovered memorable examples of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, This outstanding, HHHH1/2 97pts sparkling wine, rosé, pinot noir, ‘Bordeaux-style’ blended reds and highly refined wine This very harmonious – least predictably – montepulciano. was hand-harvested wine was fermented and at Mangatahi and in matured for 10 months Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available the Bridge Pa Triangle in French oak barriques. in export markets are shown as (A) Australia; (UK) and (US). and fermented and Bright, light lemon/ matured for 10 months green, it is mouthfilling Star ratings and reviews are awarded by Michael Cooper with in French oak barriques and sweet-fruited, with comparable points allocated by the Winestate Editor. (new and one year-old). fresh, peachy, slightly Bright, light yellow/ mealy flavours, showing SAUVIGNON Butterworth CHARDONNAY green, it is richly fragrant very good concentration, BLANC Te Muna and weighty, with ripe and finely balanced oak Martinborough 6 TASTED stonefruit flavours, finely and acidity. Drink now or 3 TASTED Sauvignon Blanc 6 RECOMMENDED integrated oak, and cellar. $36 3 RECOMMENDED 2020 HHHH1/2 lovely depth, complexity Wild Earth 97pts The notably dry growing and harmony. Very Central Otago It’s hardly a surprise Drinking well now, season in 2020 has ageworthy, it’s best Chardonnay 2021 that Hunter’s “finest but still unfolding, this yielded exceptional cellared to 2024+. $85 HHHH1/2 97pts example of Marlborough estate-grown wine chardonnays, likely to Walnut Block This distinctly cool Sauvignon Blanc” (as was fermented and be long-lived. This small Nutcracker climate, very ageworthy it is labelled) stood out. lees-aged for a year in but impressive class Marlborough chardonnay was grown But this small class seasoned French oak featured very classy Chardonnay 2020 at Pisa and Bendigo, also underlined how barrels. Bright, light wines from Waiheke HHHHH 98pts and fermented and Martinborough, in the yellow/green, it is a Island (in Auckland), Certified organic, this matured for 10 months Wairarapa region, at the characterful, full-bodied Hawke’s Bay and classy young wine in French oak barriques bottom of the North wine with strong, ripely Marlborough. was hand-picked, and (10% new). Bright, Island, can also produce herbaceous flavours, fermented and matured light yellow/green, it is aromatic, punchy, nutty, savoury characters Obsidian Reserve for a year in French fragrant and savoury, distinctly cool-climate adding very good Waiheke Island oak puncheons (25% with youthful, citrusy, sauvignon blancs. complexity, and a dry, Chardonnay 2020 new). Mouthfilling and peachy flavours, firm crisp finish. $30 HHHHH 98pts sweet-fruited, it is a acid spine, and excellent Hunter’s Home Palliser Estate This classy wine is youthful, elegant wine, delicacy, vigour and Block Marlborough The Luminary already delicious, but with strong, vibrant depth. Best drinking Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough well worth cellaring. stonefruit flavours, 2024+. $32 (A) 2020 HHHHH 98pts Sauvignon Blanc Bright, light lemon/ finely integrated oak, This highly refined wine 2021 HHH1/2 93pts green, with a fragrant, and excellent delicacy, was hand-picked from Forward in its appeal, savoury bouquet, richness and harmony. mature vines and partly this is a strongly it is weighty, with Best drinking mid- (10%) barrel fermented. varietal wine with rich, ripe stonefruit 2023+. $35 (A, UK) Fragrant and full-bodied, fresh, green-edged flavours, mealy and Hunter’s it has ripe passionfruit aromas. Lively, it has biscuity notes adding Marlborough and lime flavours, passionfruit and green excellent complexity, Chardonnay 2020 showing excellent capsicum flavours, and a smooth, seamless HHHH1/2 97pts delicacy and depth, and showing good depth, finish. Best drinking Offering fine value, a dry, long finish. Drink and a smooth finish. 2024+. $49 this youthful wine was now or cellar. $30 (A, $19 (A) grown at Rapaura and UK, US) Omaka, and fermented and matured for a year in French oak puncheons (25% new). Bright, light yellow/green, it is mouthfilling and savoury, with generous, peachy, citrusy flavours, showing very good complexity, and a finely textured, very harmonious finish. $25 (A, UK, US) 66 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

recent releases OTHER SPARKLING McArthur Ridge VBBAEULSYUTSE PINOT NOIR Rockburn Central WHITES Lilico Alexandra Otago Pinot Noir 1 TASTED Central Otago Pinot 4 TASTED 2021 HHHHH 98pts 2 TASTED 1 RECOMMENDED Noir Rosé 2021 4 RECOMMENDED This very refined, 2 RECOMMENDED HHHHH 98pts It’s no surprise that savoury red was estate- Butterworth Hunter’s Miru Attractively scented, Central Otago pinot noirs grown, principally Te Muna Miru Reserve 2017 this bright pink rosé was stood out in the tasting, at Parkburn, in the Martinborough HHHHH 98pts made from pinot noir, but Marlborough’s Cromwell Basin (85%), Dry Riesling 2021 This vivacious hand-picked at altitude in pinot noirs are also but also at Gibbston HHHH1/2 97pts Marlborough blend Alexandra. Mouthfilling, going from strength to (15%). Matured for 10 This vigorous, very of pinot noir (57%), it has strong, vibrant strength, demonstrating months in French oak youthful wine was chardonnay (34%) and flavours of strawberries, the region’s ability to casks (33% new), it estate-grown and pinot meunier (9%) was peaches and spices, a produce high quality is a bright ruby, highly hand-picked. Bright, disgorged after over vague hint of sweetness reds, often at a very approachable wine, with light lemon/green, it four years on its yeast and a fresh, crisp, lengthy attractive price. deep, youthful cherry, is light-bodied, with lees. Bright, light lemon/ plum and spice flavours, fresh, citrusy, slightly green, it is fragrant, with McArthur Ridge showing excellent appley flavours, showing concentrated, citrusy, Southern Tor complexity and harmony. excellent delicacy and peachy flavours, yeasty Alexandra Central Best drinking 2025+. intensity, a sliver of and biscuity notes Otago Pinot Noir $45 (A, UK, US) sweetness balanced by adding complexity, and 2020 HHHHH 98pts Walnut Block mouth-watering acidity, a very harmonious, This highly perfumed Nutcracker and a finely balanced, lingering finish. $40 red was hand-picked Marlborough lingering finish. Best at Alexandra and Pinot Noir 2020 drinking 2024+. $35 ROSÉ barrel-aged for 10 HHHHH 98pts months. Full, bright Certified organic, this Rockburn Central 3 TASTED ruby, it is a distinctive, finely textured red Otago Pinot Gris 3 RECOMMENDED weighty wine with was estate-grown, 2021 HHHH 95pts strong, vibrant cherry, hand-picked, matured Enjoyable young, this A small but impressive plum, herb and spice for a year in oak barrels partly barrel-fermented class, with outstanding flavours, showing good (20% new), and bottled wine was estate-grown examples of floral, complexity, and supple unfined and unfiltered. in Gibbston. Bright, pinot noir-based rosé tannins. A powerful, Ruby hued, it is a light lemon/green, it from Central Otago and youthful wine, still floral, seductive wine, is medium-bodied, Martinborough. developing, it should with cherryish, spicy, with strong, vibrant, be at its best 2024+. nutty flavours, very peachy flavours, gentle finish. Full of personality. NZ $39.99 savoury and supple, and sweetness, fresh NZ $24.99 impressive delicacy, acidity, and an invitingly complexity and length. scented bouquet. $27 Palliser Estate $45 (A, UK) (A, UK, US) Martinborough Rosé 2021 HHHHH 98pts This classy, pinot noir- based rosé was made with some use of barrel fermentation. Bright pink, it is attractively scented, with strong, lively peach, spice and watermelon flavours, a hint of apricot, and a sliver of sweetness, balanced by fresh acidity. It’s delicious now. $30 (A) Sileni Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2021 HHHH 94pts Instantly attractive, this bright pink, freshly scented wine has red berry, plum and strawberry flavours, showing very good delicacy and vibrancy, finely balanced acidity and a basically dry, smooth finish. $17 July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 67

MICHAEL COOPER Hunter’s Radburnd Hawke’s Obsidian Reserve Visit our website and keep Marlborough Bay Merlot Cabernet Waiheke Island up to date with all our latest Pinot Noir 2021 2019 HHHHH 98pts Montepulciano 2020 wine info, news, competitions, HHHH1/2 97pts Fleshy and rich, this HHHHH 98pts Still very youthful, this deeply coloured blend Likely to be long-lived, tastings and events. graceful red was grown of merlot (60%) and this is a powerful, Become a subscriber to enter mostly in the Southern cabernet sauvignon sweet-fruited red, with Valleys, hand-picked (40%) was hand-picked impressive density. into our exciting regular and matured for a year in the Bridge Pa Triangle Deeply coloured, it is competitions. in French oak barrels. and stonier sites near weighty and vibrant, Deep, bright ruby, it is Roys Hill. Matured for with concentrated, Follow us and keep up to mouthfilling, sweet- 20 months in French berryish, spicy date with all our latest fruited and savoury, with oak barriques (partly flavours, a vague hint wine info, tastings and strong, vibrant cherry, new), it is mouthfilling, of liquorice, savoury, plum and spice flavours, savoury and supple, nutty notes adding events on facebook, twitter showing very good with delicious, ripe complexity, and a well- and instagram. complexity, and supple blackcurrant, plum and structured finish. Best tannins. Offering good spice flavours, hints of drinking 2025+. $68 Winestate Magazine value, it’s well worth liquorice and coffee, and Obsidian Waiheke @WinestateEd cellaring to 2024+. $29 excellent complexity and Island Vitreous 2019 (A, UK, US) harmony. $85 HHHH1/2 97pts www.winestate.com.au Obsidian Waiheke This elegant cabernet OTHER REDS Island Reserve merlot blend is already The Mayor 2019 drinking well, but worth 6 TASTED HHHHH 98pts cellaring. Estate-grown 6 RECOMMENDED This refined, blended at Onetangi, it is full- red is based on cabernet coloured, fresh and New Zealand’s blends franc, with smaller fragrant. Mouthfilling, it of merlot and cabernet amounts of petit verdot is distinctly Bordeaux- sauvignon - in varying and malbec. It has like, with strong proportions - are deep, purple-flushed blackcurrant, plum currently overshadowed colour and a fragrant, and red berry flavours, by the international fresh bouquet, revealing seasoned with nutty success of its pinot noirs, good complexity. oak, good complexity, but the finest wines Mouthfilling, it is and ripe, supple are classy and deeply concentrated and very tannins. $36 satisfying. Hawke’s Bay vibrant, with youthful, Obsidian Estate and Waiheke Island (in ripe blackcurrant, plum, Waiheke Island Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf) berry and spice flavours, Syrah 2020 have a long history of well-integrated oak and HHHH1/2 97pts ‘Bordeaux-style’ red a smooth, lengthy finish. Already drinking well, production, and the Already approachable, this is an elegant, tasting also suggests it should break into full very harmonious that montepulciano could stride 2024+. $62 red. Full-coloured, it have a strong future. Obsidian Estate is mouthfilling, with Waiheke Island strong, fresh, plummy, Montepulciano 2020 gently spicy flavours, HHHHH 98pts savoury notes adding This distinctive, fruit- complexity, and a packed red is full smooth finish. Best of youthful vigour. drinking 2024+. $36 Fragrant, with deep, purple-flushed colour, it is mouthfilling, with strong, vibrant, plummy, spicy flavours, a gentle seasoning of oak adding savoury, complex notes, fresh acidity and good tannin support. Best drinking 2024+. $45 68 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

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HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ to advertise if they wish, their awarded are then converted into a star rating wine’s review will be featured regardless Wines are invited from any producer, system for publication in Winestate. A of advertising. The judges’ decisions are provided that they meet the criteria gold means 5 stars or 4½ stars, silver is final and these are published according of the class being judged. The class 4, and bronze is 3 or 3½ stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising may be a regional, style or new release is taken or not. tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging system available for consumers to purchase, The judges although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with Winestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a using Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight will procedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical to the judges. The three expert judges expertise and often a marketing/retail taste the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes. without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges are this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, and Masters of Wine with vast international scores, and if there is dissension they will often purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be experience, and most judges have re-taste the wines and come to an evaluated where we believe that these experience at major Australian wine agreement. Scores are compiled using are of consumer or trade interest if these shows. We are also aware of expertise. the 20-point international system: gold have not been entered by the wineries. If we are judging a region, for example, is 18 and above; silver is 17 and above In order to produce the biggest and we will have a winemaker judge from and is an excellent wine; bronze is best wine magazine, Winestate includes that region because that person knows 15.5 and above and represents good advertising; however, this is fiercely the local style. We balance that with wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- independent of any wine tasting editorial a judge from outside the region and drinking wine scores 15 (but does not and we do not sell wines we judge. generally someone with broad and gain a medal). A bland but clean wine Wine companies are advised of the mature experience. scores 14. Below this score there are blind tasting results and it is their choice HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 98 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent Gold 96 - 97 Very Good Silver 18 - 18.4 94 - 95 HHHH High Bronze 92 - 93 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good Bronze 17 - 17.9 90 - 91 Good HHH 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate judges using the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. However, in the interests of the trade and our readers, we have also added points scores that reflect a comparative result. 70 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND July/August 2022 Issue 179 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 Australia & New Zealand INTERNATIONAL CERTIFIED organic & Biodynamic WINE AWARDS™ 2022 In this issue... New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

Australia & New Zealand theaward winners are... INTERNATIONAL CERTIFIED organic & Biodynamic WINE AWARDS™ 2022 PETER SIMIC OUR thanks go to our major award partners (OIA) Organic Industries Australia for our Best in Show Award and (SXC) THIS year was certainly a challenge to bring you our take on the Southern Cross Certified for the best Australian and New Zealand best organic and biodynamic wines offered to us from Australia trophy award. and New Zealand. Unfortunately, Millesime Bio, our European partners closed their operation and the wide range of wines that Our congratulations go to Eric & Jenny Semmler from 919 Wines they were able to provide however, we soldiered on with some for the overall winner: 919 Reserve Riverland Touriga Nacional fabulous examples from our trans-Tasman competition. 2018, an unusual Portuguese varietal and to Rudi Bauer for his Quartz Reef Central Otago NZ Pinot Noir 2020, for the New After Covid, vintage issues, freight breakdowns and floods we Zealand trophy winner. were just waiting for the locusts to arrive! Nevertheless, we can only assess the wines that what we receive and we were very pleased to see a very fine selection of these organic and biodynamic wines which seem to be growing from strength to strength. These have definitely gone from the curious to the serious and demand your attention. Give them a try. Australian Winner - 919 Wines New Zealand Winner - Quartz Reef ORGANIC CERTIFYING BODIES (NASAA) (SXC) Southern (ACO) Australian Bio Gro & Demeter Eco Cert European Qualite France CAECV CAECyL Cross Certified Certified Organic Bio Gro NZ Bio-Dynamic Union Organic Bureau Veritas (New Zealand) 72 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

103 TASTED 82 AWARDED ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES A nice judging of pure fruit wines this year showing again Lark Hill Vineyard Villa Maria how far this movement has come. Unfortunately we lost our Canberra District EarthGarden international partners Millesime Bio of France who discontinued Riesling 2021 Hawkes Bay their operation, so this year it is a trans-Tasman judging. Lots to HHHH 94pts Pinot Gris 2021 like overall. Steely lemon lift to HHH 91pts the delicate nose with Herbal/green bean an elegant citrus fruit nose with a big, sweet palate. Very moreish! fruit driven palate. $22 $55 (NASAA) (Biogro NZ) SPARKLING Organic Hill Tahbilk Pogue Pig In The House Horner Wines ASH Preservative Free Vineyard Central Cowra Pinot Gris Central Ranges 8 TASTED Riverland Sparkling Victoria Sauvignon 2021 HHHH 94pts Verdelho 2021 5 AWARDED Shiraz 2020 Blanc 2021 Minerally fresh varietal HHH 91pts HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 95pts with a lingering A nose of white flowers The judges found these Earthy licorice aromas A subtle, not in your face, elegance of floral fruit and cut grass with to be a class of pleasant with a mouthful of dark fruit driven sav blanc. characters showing generous juicy flavours. well-made quaffers. chocolaty flavours. $25 Hints of beans on the citrus notes. $25 (ACO) $30 (ACO) (NASAA) citrus nose with waves Gemtree Luna Quartz Reef of flavour on the juicy Crescente McLaren Villa Maria Methode Horner Wines Mrs palate. $20.60 (ACO) Vale Fiano 2021 EarthGarden Traditionnelle H Central Ranges Horner Wines HHH1/2 93pts Marlborough Central Otago Sparkling Rosé 2021 Family Reserve Aromas of citrus with Sauvignon Blanc NZ Brut NV HHH 90pts Central Ranges rose nuances. True 2020 HHH 90pts HHH1/2 93pts Light lifted perfumed Picpoul Blanc 2021 varietal palate of sweet Good varietal fruit nose A fine bead, nice berry bouquet and a HHHH 94pts white fruit. $26 (ACO) and lovely grassy/tropical yeasty characters sweet fruit driven palate. Crisp austere style Macaw Creek flavour profile. $22 on the nose and “Fun wine!” $28 (ACO) with beautiful texture Organic Clare (Biogro NZ) fresh lemony palate and light tropical notes. Valley Riesling 2019 with good acid line. OTHER WHITE Great with seafood. HHH1/2 93pts CHARDONNAY $39 (Biogro NZ and VARIETALS & $28 (ACO) Soft fuller style with fresh Demeter NZ) BLENDS Zonte's Footstep bright fruit, good acid 11 TASTED Lady of the Lake balance and nice aged 7 AWARDED The Natural Wine 16 TASTED Fleurieu Viognier notes. $18 (SXC) Co. Organic No 14 AWARDED 2021 HHHH 94pts Quartz Reef Good class of Added Preservative Beautiful candied Central Otago NZ chardonnays offering an Lightly Central Very consistent class. apricot lift to the nose Pinot Gris 2021 interesting diversity of Ranges Sparkling “These expressed their and lightly perfumed HHH 91pts styles. “Some were on Rosé 2021 varietals with fresh flavours on a textured Alsace-like style with the leaner side; some HHH 91pts vibrant acidity,” noted palate. $30 (ACO) creamy ripe pear-like were riper and a few Pretty salmon pink wine one judge. “A good Krinklewood Broke aromas and flavours. were quite funky – viva with a fine bead and result but a few would Fordwich Verdelho $36 (Biogro NZ and la difference!” said one delicate strawberry-like have scored even higher 2021 HHHH 94pts Demeter NZ) judge. fruit. $20 (ACO) with less tannins and Light honey and citrus Ems Table Organic reduced acidity.” fragrances with fresh Clare Valley Riesling Organic Hill steely green apple 2021 HHH 91pts Preservative Free characters on the palate. Classic riesling. Light Riverland Sparkling $32 (ACO) citrus lift to the nose Blanc de Blanc 2021 Horner Wines ASH and leafy lime flavours. HHH 91pts Central Ranges $19 (SXC) A soft creamy style Picpoul Blanc 2021 with lemon curd–like HHHH 94pts characters and good Sweet floral fragrances bead. Great quaffer. $25 and full flavoured ripe (NASAA) apple palate with nice grippy phenolics. $35 (ACO) July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 73

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Te Awanga Estate Tahbilk Pogue TOP One Off Uncensored Vineyard Central AUSTRALIAN Organic Hawke's Victoria Rosé 2021 Bay Chardonnay HHH 91pts The Top Organic & Biodynamic wines 2020 HHH1/2 92pts Beautiful, sweet as selected by highest judges scores Pungent musky aromas strawberry and cream are: and tight Chablis-like style with unexpected palate with nice crunchy savouriness. $20.60 ORGANIC INDUSTRIES AUSTRALIA length. $34.99 (Biogro) (ACO) (OIA) BEST WINE IN SHOW AWARD Rosily Vineyard Tahbilk Pogue Horner Wines ASH SX CERTIFIED AUSTRALIA & Reserve Margaret Vineyard Central Central Ranges Rosé NEW ZEALAND AWARD WINNER River Chardonnay Victoria Chardonnay 2021 HHH 91pts 2021 HHHHH 98pts 2021 HHH 91pts Well put together WINNER A serious bright golden Elegant citrus/peach sweeter style with slight wine –rich and buttery bouquet and well earthy/barnyard notes. 1. 919 Reserve Riverland in style with dense but constructed flavoursome $30 (ACO) Touriga Nacional 2018 delicate honeyed fruit palate. $20.60 (ACO) HHHHH 98pts (SXC) expression and great Krinklewood OTHER RED use of oak. $60 (ACO) Broke Fordwich VARIETALS & EQUAL 2nd Krinklewood Chardonnay 2021 BLENDS Basket Press HHH 90pts 2. Rosily Vineyard Reserve Broke Fordwich Nose is bright, fresh and 12 TASTED Margaret River Chardonnay 2021 Chardonnay 2021 peachy with a crisp acid 12 AWARDED HHHHH 98pts (ACO) HHHH1/2 95pts driven palate. $36 (ACO) Beautifully rich wine A solid flight of varietal 3. Kalleske Rosina Barossa Valley with a decadent ROSÉ wines. “It is great to Rosé 2022 HHHHH 98pts (SXC) complexity and see quality winemaking 4. Stormflower Margaret River persistence of perfectly 7 TASTED matching the quality Sub Region Cabernet Sauvignon ripe fruit, subtle oak 6 AWARDED of the organic fruit 2018 HHHHH 98pts (SXC) and attractive flintiness. involved,” said one 5. Kalleske JMK Barossa Valley $55 (ACO) A solid class with crisp judge. Shiraz Vintage Port 2021 Rosily Vineyard acidity and purity of fruit. HHHHH 98pts (SXC) Margaret River Kalleske Rosina Quartz Reef Central Chardonnay 2021 Barossa Valley Rosé Otago NZ Pinot Noir 6. Kalleske Greenock HHHH 94pts 2022 HHHHH 98pts 2020 HHHHH 98pts Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020 Lemon meringue-like Super bright perfumed A complex pinot sitting HHHH1/2 97pts (SXC) bouquet and a rich lifted red berry bouquet and in the meaty/forest floor 7. Paxton Quandong Farm sound fruit palate with an explosion of fresh spectrum with hints of McLaren Vale Shiraz 2021 obvious oak. $28 (ACO) berry flavours with red plums. It has sweet HHHH1/2 97pts (NASAA) House of Cards perfect acid balance. vanilla oak, silky smooth 8. Kalleske Old Vine 'The Royals' “Dances in the mouth!” tannins and plenty of Barossa Valley Grenache 2021 Margaret River $22 (SXC) acid. $49 (Biogro NZ and HHHH1/2 97pts (SXC) Chardonnay 2021 Villa Maria Demeter NZ) 9. 919 Reserve Riverland HHHH 94pts EarthGarden Durif 2018 HHHH1/2 97pts (SXC) Exciting flavoursome Hawkes Bay Rosé 919 Reserve 10. See Saw Organic Orange cool climate chardonnay. 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Riverland Touriga Pinot Noir 2021 HHHH1/2 Lots going on here with Salmon hues, floral Nacional 2018 96pts (ACO) fruity flinty characters. fragrances and good HHHHH 98pts 11. Gemtree Obsidian $52 (ACO) flavours. Chill and enjoy A huge, gutsy and McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020 at lunch. $22 (Biogro NZ) flavoursome wine with HHHH1/2 96pts (ACO) Gemtree Luna de peppered red fruit 12. Organic Hill Preservative Free Fresa McLaren Vale intensity, voluptuous Riverland Montepulciano 2021 Rosé 2021 plum characters and HHHH1/2 96pts (NASAA) HHH1/2 92pts hints of Christmas cake. Fresh, light and delicate. $45 (SXC) “Has a Mediterranean feel – reminds me of 919 Reserve Greece!” $26 (ACO) Riverland Durif 2018 Pig In The House HHHH1/2 97pts Cowra Rosé 2021 A big rich and intense HHH1/2 92pts varietal. A big hit of black Strawberry bouquet fruit and oak aromas and with some green huge gutsy sweet fruit apple notes and a dry, flavours with massive intensely strawberry, tannins. $45 (SXC) palate. $25 (ACO) 74 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

feature tasting Organic Hill Whistling Kite GRENACHE & Little Giant Free Little Giant Free Preservative Biodynamic BLENDS McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Free Riverland Riverland Grenache 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Montepulciano 2021 Montepulciano 2020 7 TASTED HHH 91pts 2021 HHHH1/2 HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts 7 AWARDED Sweet raspberry nose 96pts A variety all about colour A nice wine quite grippy with a zephyr of lavender A big tannic wine bright and fruit. Dark purple for now, just needs time. Consistent but mixed and firm fruit driven purple in colour with hues, perfumed fruit Eucalypt dominates the result with a diversity palate. $29.99 (ACO) lovely perfumed varietal nose and intense fruit black fruits. $35 (ACO) of styles. One judge fruit and crisp lively acid. flavours with a grippy Whistling Kite urged winemakers to Gemtree Small “Refreshingly easy to edge. $20 (NASAA) Biodynamic aim for supple juicy fruit Batch SBO McLaren drink.” $29.99 (ACO) See Saw Organic Riverland Petit wines rather than tannic Vale Grenache Kalleske Merchant Orange Pinot Noir Verdot 2019 versions. 2021 HHH 91pts Barossa Valley 2021 HHHH1/2 HHHH 94pts Lighter style with Cabernet Sauvignon 96pts Aromas of violets and Kalleske Old Vine delicate confectionery 2021 HHHH 94pts A purity of pinot musk lollies. Lovely Barossa Valley fruit nose and luscious Candied blackberry fruit fragrances, all palate structure with Grenache 2021 palate. $50 (ACO) bouquet with minty strawberries and forest punchy spicy red fruit HHHH1/2 97pts nuances and a dash of floor with a beautifully flavours. $35 (ACO) Super lifted bouquet of Organic Hill spice. Rich varietal fruit/ integrated, feather light, Zonte's Footstep rose petals and choc- Founders McLaren oak flavours. $34 (SXC) palate. $25 (ACO) Madrugador Fleurieu mint. Lots happening in Vale Grenache 919 Reserve TNT Tempranillo 2021 this wine with great fruit 2021 HHH 90pts Organic Hill Riverland Touriga HHH 91pts flavours spread across A big, perfumed berry Founders Single Nacional Tempranillo Bright intensity of berry the palate. $50 (SXC) driven style. Very rich Vineyard McLaren 2021 HHHH 94pts fruit fragrances and and very moreish! $40 Vale Cabernet Flower-shop of a nose lovely dark fruit palate. Gemtree Cinnabar (NASAA) Sauvignon 2021 – very aromatic with a $35 (ACO) McLaren Vale G.S.M. HHH1/2 93pts vibrant blend of juicy Nanny Goat 2020 HHHH 95pts CABERNET & Dusty nose with purple fruit flavours. High acid. Vineyard Single Subtle inviting wine BLENDS fruit underneath and $40 (SXC) Vineyard with an elegance of dark generous fruit flavours Queensberry Central varietal fruit and hints of 10 TASTED with supporting oak. $40 Otago Pinot Noir spicy oak. Good varietal 7 AWARDED (NASAA) 2021 HHH 91pts expression. $26 (ACO) All plums and Very mixed group here, strawberries with Gemtree Small half were very good sandalwood notes. Quite Batch SBE McLaren while the other half tannic. $57 (BioGro) Vale Grenache 2021 were borderline with Whistling Kite HHH1/2 92pts excess tannins or acidity. Biodynamic Bright perfumed cherry Riverland Mencia bouquet and candied Stormflower 2020 HHH 91pts raspberry flavours. Margaret River Sub Stalky red berry Good commercial style. Region Cabernet bouquet with a gum $50 (ACO) Sauvignon 2018 leaf lift and inky fruit HHHHH 98pts palate. $35 (ACO) Kalleske Parallax All blackberries and 919 Reserve Barossa Valley blackcurrants here Riverland Grenache 2021 with fresh tobacco-like Tempranillo 2018 HHH 91pts characters on the nose HHH 91pts Lovely crunchy spicy/ and sweet vanilla oak Spicy, earthy and herbal fruit laced with on the palate with chocolaty with great raspberries. Very fine tannins and good tannins and background drinkable. $29 (SXC) acidity. $65 (SXC) oak. $35 (SXC) JUDGES Ashleigh Seymour Eric Semmler Troy Kalleske Winemaker for Paxton Proprietor of 919 Wine Winemaker and Wines. Has previously Company. Formerly co-owner of Kalleske worked with Peter winemaker for the Hardy Wines. Previously Lehmann Wines, The Wine Company. Previously with Southcorp Lane, Yarra Burn and Bay with Brown Brothers Group, including of Fires in Australia and and Auldstone Cellars. Penfolds, Seppelt Andre Perretti, Condrieu Has spent eight years as and Lindemans. Also and Avignonesi, fortified winemaker for vintaged with Kendall Montepulciano. Judged Hardys. Associate judge at Jackson in California. at the latter Consortium. Rutherglen, McLaren Vale and Riverland shows. July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 75

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Rosily Vineyard Kalleske Greenock Tahbilk Pogue TOP The Cartographer Barossa Valley Vineyard Central Margaret River Shiraz 2020 Victoria Shiraz NEW ZEALAND WINE Cabernet Sauvignon HHHH1/2 97pts 2020 HHHH 94pts Merlot Cabernet Big brooding shiraz Big voluptuous wine The Top Organic & Biodynamic wines Franc Malbec 2020 that’s classy and with vibrant perfumed as selected by highest judges scores HHH1/2 92pts sophisticated; lots cherry/plum fruit and are: Floral fragrances with going on. Intense dark good background of oak. classy oak notes and a fruits and solid oak. $20.60 (ACO) WINNER grippy palate with inky Drink now or cellar for 919 Reserve fruit intensity. $25 (ACO) years! $45 (SXC) Riverland Shiraz 1. Quartz Reef Central Otago NZ Gemtree Ernest 2020 HHHH 94pts Pinot Noir 2020 HHHHH 98pts Pig In The House Allan McLaren Brooding spicy fruit (Biogro NZ and Demeter NZ) Organic Cowra Vale Shiraz 2020 aromas and flavours. Cabernet Sauvignon HHHH1/2 96pts Excellent balance of 2. Quartz Reef Methode 2021 HHH 91pts A refined shiraz just fruit, oak, tannins and Traditionnelle Central Otago NZ Purple wine, gamey starting to develop nice acid. $42 (SXC) Brut NV HHH1/2 93pts (Biogro blackberry bouquet, secondary characters. Zonte's Footstep NZ and Demeter NZ) cassis flavours and subtle Lovely purity of varietal Nature's Crux tannins. $25 (ACO) fruit with minimal oak Fleurieu Shiraz 2021 3. Villa Maria EarthGarden and tight tannins. $60 HHH1/2 92pts Hawkes Bay Rosé 2021 Rosily Vineyard (ACO) Peppery berry fruit HHH1/2 92pts (Biogro NZ) Margaret River Gemtree Obsidian aromas and spicy Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale red fruit flavours with 4. Te Awanga Estate 2019 HHH 90pts Shiraz 2020 upfront tannins. $35 One Off Uncensored Organic Nose opens up to HHHH1/2 96pts (ACO) Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2020 delicate dark fruit with Big and beautiful and The Darling McLaren HHH1/2 92pts (Biogro NZ) a rich rounded palate. balanced with pristine Vale Syrah 2020 5. Quartz Reef Central Otago NZ $28 (ACO) spicy perfumed dark HHH1/2 92pts Pinot Gris 2021 HHH 91pts fruits and subtle oak. Vibrant spicy plum fruit (Biogro NZ and Demeter NZ) SHIRAZ/SYRAH “Rich and friendly wine with charry oak and 6. Villa Maria EarthGarden & BLENDS without overpowering.” tannins running through Hawkes Bay Pinot Gris 2021 $100 (ACO) it. $38 (NASAA) HHH 91pts (Biogro NZ) 31 TASTED Paxton Queen Of The 12 Noon Lagoon 23 AWARDED Hive McLaren Vale Organic South 7. Villa Maria EarthGarden Shiraz Mataro 2021 Australia Shiraz Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc A flight of flavoursome HHHH 95pts 2019 HHH1/2 92pts 2020 HHH 90pts (Biogro NZ) wines. “It was good to Big gutsy style with Beautifully soft ethereal see such diversity from earthy/berry/chocolate wine still bright with fruit, Unfortunately a number of wines booked the young and vibrant to aromas and very lots of oak and some in for the tasting did not arrive in time and the more complex oak flavoursome black fruit pungency. $14.99 had to be left out! aged wines,” said one palate. $25 (NASAA) (SXC) judge. “There were no Elephant In The Ems Table Organic flat or over the hill wines Room Wrattonbully Preservative Free which was a good sign,” Shiraz 2021 Clare Valley Shiraz said another. HHHH 94pts 2021 HHH 91pts Rich full flavoured Nose opens up to bold Paxton Quandong upfront style with deep mulberry fruit with a Farm McLaren inky red fruits, spices, high acid palate bright Vale Shiraz 2021 oaky notes and lots of with crunchy fruit HHHH1/2 97pts acid. $18.99 (ACO) flavours. $19 (SXC) A dense intense Little Giant Free De Bortoli Organic wine with plenty of McLaren Vale Shiraz Field Blend Riverina beautiful rich sweet 2021 HHHH 94pts Shiraz 2020 dark fruit characters Rich, inky, full-bodied HHH 91pts and obvious classy oak shiraz with delicate Quite a “quirky” wine. to complement. $35 red fruit aromas and Spicy berry fruit, (NASAA) subtle varietal flavours. Balsamic notes, some $29.99 (ACO) pepper and firm tannins. $14 (ACO) 76 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

feature tasting Horner Wines Belalie Wines Pig In The House FORTIFIED ASH Central Ranges Southern Flinders Organic Cowra Shiraz 2020 Ranges Shiraz 2018 Shiraz 2020 1 TASTED HHH 91pts HHH 91pts HHH 90pts 1 AWARDED Spicy inky/peppery fruit Spicy peppery cool Confectionery fruit nose aromas and bright fruit climate style with solid and full-bodied palate “One excellent example flavours with tangy acid. tannins. Needs more with exotic jubey fruit showing vibrant shiraz $40 (ACO) time. $182 (NASAA) flavours. $25 (ACO) fruit and good spirit Organic Hill choice,” commented one Founders Single The Natural Wine Horner Wines judge. Vineyard McLaren Co. Organic No Family Reserve Vale Shiraz 2020 Added Preservative Cowra Shiraz 2021 Kalleske JMK HHH 91pts Central Ranges HHH 90pts Barossa Valley Elegant lifted spicy fruit Shiraz 2021 Lifted perfumed red Shiraz Vintage Port nose and delicious, HHH 91pts berry nose; simple well 2021 HHHHH 98pts balanced, light bodied Youthful berry bouquet balanced varietal palate. Super aromatic nose – palate. $40 (NASAA) and an uncomplicated (ACO) all trifle and Christmas Cape Jaffa ripe perfumed blackberry See Saw Organic cake! Palate is a perfect Wines En Soleil palate. $20 (ACO) Orange Shiraz balance between Single Vineyard Stormflower 2021 HHH 90pts fruit, sugar, acid and Wrattonbully Shiraz Margaret River Sub Delicate peppery tannins with good spirit 2018 HHH 91pts Region Shiraz 2020 raspberry aromas and integration. $25 (SXC) Warm inviting wine with HHH 91pts acid driven palate. Good attractive plum fruit, Pretty black fruit/oak fruit expression. $25 subtle oak and plenty of nose and a rich peppery (ACO) acid. $29 (ACO) fruit palate; some sweetness. $40 (SXC) July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 77

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feature tasting 190 TASTED 143 AWARDED NEW RELEASES It is very interesting to see the rise of alternative varietals, which Coppabella RIESLING are getting better and better as winemakers and the public take Tumbarumba them more seriously. This also goes hand in hand with the trend Sparkling 4 TASTED to more mid-weight stylistic wines. The only downside is the Chardonnay 2 AWARDED 'sameness' occurring across regions, with the benefit being a Pinot Noir 2021 consistency of freshness and vibrancy. HHH 91pts Two very nice examples Green bean characters here; one dry and FLAVOURED Atkins Farm Petite Moppity Vineyards on the nose and high acid one with a touch of WINE Rosa Low Alcohol Lock & Key lemon/lime palate. $27 sweetness. South Australia Rosé Tumbarumba Anna Spinato Brut 6 TASTED 2021 HHH 91pts Sparkling Vintage DOC Veneto Moppity Vineyards 0 AWARDED Floral strawberry Chardonnay Italy Prosecco 2021 Lock & Key Hilltops bouquet with a pretty Pinot Noir 2021 HHH 91pts Riesling 2021 The judges found it strawberry palate HHHH1/2 96pts Pleasant youthful citrus/ HHHH1/2 96pts difficult to find the offering light easy Consistent fine bead, apple aromas with bright Intense and flinty lime- context in which to drinking. $19.95 elegant citrus/green and simple stonefruit like fragrances with just assess these wines and apple bouquet and flavours. $30 a hint of apricots and had varying opinions, SPARKLING crisp fresh lime driven Taltarni Vineyards a long lingering palate not enough to get them flavours. “A proper Vintage Pyrenees brimming over with across the line. 13 TASTED young sparkling.” $25 Blanc de Blanc 2017 fresh citrus flavours. $25 11 AWARDED Kreglinger Vintage HHH 91pts LOW Brut Pipers River Interesting yeasty Mr Riggs Ein Riese ALCOHOL “The higher scoring Tasmania Pinot Noir bouquet and Adelaide Hills WINE wines here showed Chardonnay 2017 flavoursome, well Riesling 2022 a creamy bead, HHH1/2 92pts balanced, palate with HHH1/2 93pts 2 TASTED some attractive yeast Bready nutty nose with dry finish. $32.99 Youthful off dry style; 2 AWARDED characters along with fruity overtones and Taltarni Vineyards good acid/sweet nice freshness,” said citrus peel-like flavours Vintage Brut balance and nice floral, one judge. on the palate. Drink Pyrenees lychee and lemon curd now. $60 Chardonnay Pinot characters. $30 Noir Pinot Meunier These two wines Bream Creek Sidewood Estate 2016 HHH 91pts SAUVIGNON showed a surprising Vineyard Cuvee Sparkling Adelaide Bright yellow hue, BLANC level of quality and were Traditionelle Hills Pinot Noir yeasty peach nose and well made within their Tasmania Chardonnay NV tart dry stonefruit/apple 8 TASTED class. Chardonnay HHH 91pts palate. $28 4 AWARDED Pinot Noir 2016 Steely nose with a floral Sidewood Estate Atkins Farm Petite HHHHH 98pts lift and stewed fruit-like Chloe Cuvee A mixed result with Sofia Low Alcohol Nutty butterscotch flavour profile. $22 Adelaide Hills the best showing good South Australia bouquet with hints Sidewood Estate Chardonnay fruit characters without Sauvignon Blanc of apples and “true Sparkling Adelaide Pinot Noir 2015 showing a green edge 2021 HHH 91pts Champagne” characters Hills Pinot Noir NV HHH 91pts and a few lacking flavour. Crystal clear, bright, on the elegant, intense HHH 91pts Nicely aged sparkling lifted, fruit driven varietal and beautifully balanced A fresh austere style with toasty toffee Koonara Wines with attractive peach and palate. $50 with a lift of rose petals aromas and full Angel's Footprints green apple characters. and a citrusy palate. $24 flavoured palate. $35 Mount Gambier $19.95 Kreglinger Pipers Sauvignon Blanc River Tasmania 2022 HHHH 95pts Brut Rosé 2017 Lovely cool climate HHH 90pts style with lifted grassy Bronze hues with capsicum aromas, pure developing aromas and citrus flavours and crisp tart dry flavours with a acid line. $20 citrus end. $75 July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 79

NEW RELEASES Common Ground Artwine Prego Sidewood Estate Coppabella Sirius Tempus Two Copper Coonawarra Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Tumbarumba Wilde Hunter Valley Sauvignon Blanc Clare Valley Pinot Blanc 2021 Chardonnay 2021 Chardonnay 2021 2021 HHHH 94pts Pinot Grigio 2022 HHHH1/2 97pts HHHHH 98pts HHHH 94pts Austere, grassy green HHH 91pts Interesting flinty melon Vibrant, youthful and Buttery malo aromas apple bouquet and zesty Leafy forest floor bouquet and initial Burgundy-like – a and attractive buttery citrus flavours on the fragrances and good sweetness on the palate classic! The buttery characters on the nicely vibrant, varietally true, white peach varietal nicely balanced with bouquet is underscored textured, layered, palate. palate. $20 palate. $27 flinty complexity. “A with stonefruit and the Good acidity. $30 unique wine,” said one perfectly balanced palate Kosciuszko Wines OTHER judge. $25 has toasty stonefruit Lange Estate TSR Tumbarumba VARIETALS & flavours. $60 Frankland River Sauvignon Blanc BLENDS Artwine Wicker Forester Estate Chardonnay 2021 2021 HHH 91pts Stepmother Clare Yelverton Reserve HHH1/2 92pts Attractive varietal nose 5 TASTED Valley Fiano 2022 Margaret River A lovely cool climate with a dry palate and HHHH1/2 96pts Chardonnay 2019 fruit driven style of minerally green apple/ 5 AWARDED Floral and herbal on HHHHH 98pts chardonnay with layers citrus flavours. $27 the nose and very Bright golden wine of stonefruit and subtle approachable ripe with nutty citrus oak. $25 Yarrawood Estate A really strong class! lemon-like flavour profile fragrances and very Yarra Valley Excellent varietal with nice mineral line concentrated crème Gartelmann Wines Sauvignon Blanc character with lovely and very good level of brulee-like flavours Sarah Elizabeth 2021 HHH 90pts freshness and intensity acidity. $35 on the nicely textured Hunter Valley Light fresh and lively in all of them. palate with good Chardonnay 2021 with simple green apple Tempus Two Copper balancing acidity. $77 HHH 91pts and lime-like characters. Zonte's Footstep Hunter Valley Lange Estate Nettley citrus-like $18 Lady Marmalade Verdelho 2022 Providence Road aromas leading to a Fleurieu Vermentino HHHH 94pts Frankland River linear citrus driven PINOT GRIS/ 2022 HHHHH 98pts A great example of Chardonnay 2021 palate. $30 GRIGIO A refreshingly youthful the variety with musky HHHH1/2 97pts wine with excellent floral fragrances and an “A yummy wine!” All Warramunda Estate 5 TASTED colour clarity. Pretty elegant well balanced buttery and toasty on Liv Zak Single 2 AWARDED lifted tropical aromas herbaceous/lime the nose and a seamless Vineyard Yarra Valley and crisp pineapple-like palate. $30 balance of oak and Chardonnay 2021 There were a couple of flavours on the full- stonefruit flavours with HHH 91pts good wines here that bodied palate. $25 CHARDONNAY a perfect, lingering, after A potpourri of a nose showed good length and taste. $32 with subtle varietal fruit varietal character. Tempus Two Copper 14 TASTED Gartelmann Wines and oak flavours. $38 Hunter Valley 8 AWARDED Lisa Reserve Hunter Tempus Two Copper Semillon 2022 Valley Chardonnay ROSÉ Hunter Valley HHHH1/2 97pts The better wines offered 2021 HHHH1/2 Pinot Grigio 2022 Still a very young good oak/fruit balance. 96pts 10 TASTED HHH1/2 92pts wine with some spritz “There were a number A nose of toasty brown 9 AWARDED Citrus/honeysuckle nose evident. Grassy green of wines that were over- lime characters with with nougat notes; good herbaceous aromas and oaked for the fruit depth good concentration of A solid class with a line of mouth-watering delicious intense lime/ involved while others nutty citrus flavours and range of styles from citrus flavours. $30 nettle palate with good simply lacked fruit,” good use of oak with a the easy drinking fruit acidity. $30 noted one judge. crisp line of acid. $50 forward styles to more serious savoury styles. Good to see general dry styles abound. JUDGES - DAY 1 Matt O’Leary Sara Zhang Chief winemaker Winemaker at TWG (The Wine Marc Allgrove for Savitas Wines in Group). Previously vintaged Partner at Evans and the Barossa Valley. at Berri Estates, West Cape Ayers consulting firm. Formerly Senior Howe, WA and Grower With over 20 years Winemaker for Wolf Wine Group in Australia. in the Australian Blass Wines. Judge Overseas includes Villa Maria, wine industry, both at the Barossa wine Marlborough and Bordeaux Australia and abroad. show. Panelist at for six months, Right Bank Worked at Hardy’s, the Advanced Wine Chateaux, through a Bordeaux Constellation, Assessment Course. consultant. Has judged at the Chapel Hill (CEO) Riverland wine show. and director of the Phylloxera board. 80 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

NEW RELEASES Koonara Wines Lumiere Provence Morambro Creek Quin Wines Barossa Seville Hill Yarra Emily May France Rosé 2021 Wines Jip Jip Rocks Valley Mataro 2021 Valley Merlot 2014 Limestone Coast HHH 91pts Adelaide Hills HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts Pinot Noir Rosé A fresh easy style. Tempranillo 2021 A big generous port jelly Earthy mushroomy 2022 HHH1/2 92pts Nice sweetness and a HHHH1/2 96pts of a wine; some dried bouquet and a soft Sweet ripe strawberries lift of strawberries and Vibrant purple wine, fruit characters, fine nicely aged Christmas lift off the nose and cherries. $40 ripe raspberry nose tannins and lingering cake-like palate. $30 clean strawberry Reschke R-Series with a perfumed lift acid. $55 flavours fill the mouth Limestone Coast and fleshy in the mouth Mr Riggs Sanjo MONTEPULCIANO with flavour. $23 Rosé 2022 with intense spicy Adelaide Hills Brise Maritime HHH 90pts blackcurrant flavours and Sangiovese 2021 5 TASTED Mediterranee Pretty pink wine that’s fine tannins. $25 HHH 91pts 3 AWARDED IGP Provence “clean and breezy” with Atze's Corner Wines Spicy perfumed fruit France Rosé 2021 floral strawberry fruit Giant Barossa Valley fragrances and a chewy “Excellent wines that HHH1/2 92pts characters. $20 Durif 2020 fruit palate with good showed excellent Pretty perfumed floral HHHH1/2 96pts acid line. $35 winemaking and great bouquet; light refreshing OTHER RED An inky aromatic mix Levrier by Jo Irvine balance of tannins.” Said savoury palate. VARIETALS & of black and red fruit Art Collection one judge. Attractive phenolic BLENDS fragrances followed Barossa Valley finish. $25 by a big hit of rich fruit Cabernet Franc 2020 Tempus Two Copper Moppity Vineyards 16 TASTED flavours laced with HHH 91pts New South Wales Lock & Key 13 AWARDED plenty of sweet vanilla Bright perfumed aromas Montepulciano 2021 Hilltops Rosé 2021 An above average line- oak. $35 and red fruit driven HHHH1/2 97pts HHH1/2 92pts up with some highlights. Quin Wines flavours with big tannins Intense perfumed forest Subtle strawberry “Many of these showed Everyday Explorer and dry finish. $35 berry bouquet and an fragrances and balance and integration Riverland Mataro Seville Hill TRE Yarra inky fleshy full-bodied nicely textured, of fruit, oak and acids,” 2020 HHHH 94pts Valley Sangiovese palate dominated by red well-balanced, green said one judge. “Good to Funky gamey aromas Merlot Cabernet fruit with mouth coating strawberry palate. $25 see these against their and a soft full-bodied 2015 HHH 91pts tannins and good acid Domaine Des peers.” palate with good mix of Beautiful aged medium backbone. $35 Feraud Cuvee black fruit and sweet oak bodied chocolaty/ Prestige Provence Zerella Wines flavours. $25 peppery wine with red/ Tenafeate Creek France Rosé 2021 Oliveto Single Fox Creek Wines black fruit elements. $35 Wines One Tree Hill HHH1/2 92pts Vineyard McLaren Limited Release Mr Riggs Yacca Montepulciano 2021 Strawberry and cream Vale Mataro 2020 McLaren Vale Paddock Adelaide HHHH1/2 97pts of a wine with lifted HHHHH 98pts Mourvèdre 2021 Hills Tempranillo Rich blackberry jam aromas and lingering Nose described by one HHH1/2 93pts 2021 HHH 90pts aromas with a full- flavours. Good acid judge as, “A savoury Inviting perfumed fruit Lifted red plum nose bodied inky/chocolaty line. $45 cradle of toasty oak!” fragrances with obvious with a hint of oak and palate showing a big Artwine Temptress Rich smooth and ripeness on the red/ complex peppery/spicy hit of pepper and some Single Vineyard approachable red/black black fruit palate. $29 fruit flavours. $30 powerful tannins. $35 Adelaide Hills fruit palate with nice Bec Hardy Wines Pinot Noir Rosé chocolaty elements. $60 McLaren Vale MERLOT Mr Riggs 2022 HHH 91pts Mourvèdre 2021 Montepulciano A lift of red apple HHH1/2 93pts 4 TASTED dÁdelaide Adelaide aromas and light Clean lifted aromatics 3 AWARDED Montepulciano 2020 strawberry flavours on and very refined HHHH1/2 96pts the lean palate. $27 polished palate with Three nice examples of Powerful perfumed Lost Buoy Wines exotic flavours and fine the variety here. fruit fragrances and McLaren Vale tannins. $30 Reschke R-Series a soft spicy red fruit Grenache Rosé Paulmara Estates Limestone Coast palate with obvious 2021 HHH 91pts DeNero Barossa Merlot 2021 leathery characters and Nose and palate have Nero D'Avola 2021 HHHH 94pts sweet spicy oak. Easy nice concentration HHH1/2 92pts Easy drinking with a drinking. $30 of green herbaceous Deep purple wine with pleasant integration of characters. $20 an inky concentration of plum, spices and leather Pig In The House spicy peppery fruit on complemented by the Organic Cowra Rosé the nose and palate. $22 tannins. $20 2021 HHH 91pts Tenafeate Creek Reschke Bull Trader Pale salmon wine Wines One Tree Hill Coonawarra Merlot with attractive apple, Durif 2021 2021 HHH 91pts pear and sour cherry HHH1/2 92pts Good peppery black elements. $25 Dark inky wine with fruit depth, nice toasty intense licoricey fruit and oak and high level of mouth-coating tannins. acid. $25 Good example of the variety. $35 July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 81

NEW RELEASES GRENACHE & Curtis Family Sidewood Estate Clos Marguerite Bream Creek BLENDS Vineyards Small Adelaide Hills Awatere Vineyard Tasmania Batch McLaren Vale Pinot Noir 2021 Marlborough Pinot Noir 2021 7 TASTED Grenache Shiraz HHHHH 98pts Pinot Noir 2019 HHH 91pts 6 AWARDED 2019 HHH1/2 92pts An elegant style of pinot HHHH 94pts A fuller style with minty Minty chocolate nose – deep ruby red in colour Earthy/mushroom/forest black and red fruit, good A small but consistent and lots of oak on the with lovely layers of sour floor aromas with similar level of acid and some group of wines. “The concentrated jammy cherry, forest floor and characters layered on nice tannins. $45 better wines were fruit palate. Good acid menthol elements with the developing palate well handled, fresh line. $80 silky tannins and good with silky tannins. $52 Coppabella Sirius and vibrant mid-weight acid line. $35 Kyneton Ridge Tumbarumba styles,” noted one judge. Quin Wines Barossa Skipping Rabbit Pinot Noir 2021 Valley Grenache Morambro Creek Macedon Pinot Noir HHH 91pts Curtis Family 2019 HHH 91pts Wines Jip Jip Rocks 2021 HHH1/2 92pts Spicy depth of red Vineyards Small Lifted plum and cherry Adelaide Hills A big rich pinot but done varietal fruit with Batch McLaren Vale fruit with a good line Pinot Noir 2021 well. Some sweet dark savoury elements and Grenache 2021 and length of chewy HHHH1/2 96pts fruit with savoury notes fine tannins. $60 HHH1/2 93pts tannins. $55 Fresh minty fruit and chewy tannins. $28 Soft and creamy with fragrances and an Warramunda Estate Tempus Two Copper good length and balance Old Plains Longhop elegant palate with Liv Zak Single Tumbarumba of red fruits supported Old Vine Adelaide good depth and length Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2021 with a good tannin Plains Grenache of herbaceous red fruits Pinot Noir 2021 HHH 90pts structure. $80 2021 HHH 90pts wrapped in some tight HHH1/2 92pts A lighter elegant style Intense sweet blueberry tannins. $25 Light bodied with with lingering minty/ Freeland Wines fruit with a spicy lift and characters of forest cherry characters and a Loading Zone grainy tannins. $25 floor, pine needles and high level of acid. $35 Barossa Valley cherries. Good acid and Grenache 2019 PINOT NOIR tannins. $38 Kyneton Ridge HHH1/2 93pts Bream Creek Reserve Macedon Cherry cola fruit 16 TASTED Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir 2021 characters with bacon 13 AWARDED Tasmania Pinot Noir HHH 90pts bone-like savoury 2020 HHH1/2 92pts Big ripe jammy fruit driven elements and lingering A good class of varying A bolder juicy pinot with high acid and tannins. $25 styles from the lighter flavoursome pinot soft tannins. $40 fresher ones to the ripe with dark fleshy fruit, Lost Buoy Wines and savoury. “Overall peppery notes and CABERNET & McLaren Vale great to see varietal menthol hints. $70 BLENDS Grenache 2021 character here rather 82 Metres Wines HHH1/2 92pts than the dry reds of the Yarra Valley 22 TASTED A full-bodied purple past,” enthused one of Pinot Noir 2021 19 AWARDED almost black wine with the panel. HHH 91pts lifted blue fruits, high A straightforward, nicely Generally, this was a tannins and low acidity. textured, wine with light solid and consistent $20 forest floor and red berry group of wines showing characters. $20 good varietal definition. Mike Press Reschke R-Series “A few wines here Wines Single Limestone Coast would have performed Vineyard VBBAEULSYUTSE Pinot Noir 2021 better with less oak HHH 91pts domination,” noted one Adelaide Hills Smoky meaty nose and judge. Pinot Noir 2021 intense smoky dark red HHHH 95pts fruit flavours with chewy Intense herbaceous tannins. $20 cherry bouquet with a ripe red/black flavour profile. “A typical Aussie style of pinot.” $17.99 JUDGES - DAY 2 Marc Allgrove Janelle Zerk Sara Zhang Partner at Evans and Owner/operator and Winemaker at TWG (The Ayers consulting firm. winemaker at Z Wines Wine Group). Previously With over 20 years in the Barossa Valley. vintaged at Berri Estates, in the Australian Associate judge, Hunter West Cape Howe, WA wine industry, both Valley wine show and and Grower Wine Group in Australia and abroad. Adelaide wine show. WSET Australia. Overseas includes Worked at Hardy’s, level 3 and advanced Villa Maria, Marlborough and Constellation, wine assessment course. Bordeaux for six months, Chapel Hill (CEO) Vintages in Hunter Right Bank Chateaux, and director of the Valley, Sonoma, Tuscany through a Bordeaux Phylloxera board. and Puligny Montrachet consultant. Has judged at the (Burgundy). Riverland wine show. 82 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

NEW RELEASES Coppabella Procella Red Acre Tenafeate Creek Lost Buoy Wines Mike Press Wines Hilltops Cabernet Coonawarra Wines One Tree Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz Single Vineyard Sauvignon 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 HHHH 94pts Adelaide Hills Shiraz HHHH1/2 97pts 2019 HHHH 94pts 2021 HHH 91pts A generous and nicely 2021 HHH 91pts Red fruit nose with a “A very enjoyable Intense leafy cassis textured shiraz with minty Dark chocolaty nose dash of pepper and hints wine.” Sweet vanilla oak nose and fleshy black peppery notes to the with perfumed of mint. Some “serious” aromas and red/black fruit palate underscored nose and good flavour blackberry flavours and varietal fruit flavours that fruit palate with sweet/ by the acid. $35 concentration. $25 soft tannins. $14.99 go on and on and carried spicy oak. $19.99 Wine Architect The Bec Hardy Wines by the acid. $45 Hoggies Estate Zerella Wines 4056 Thief Barossa Valley South Australia Jim Brand Coonawarra McLaren Vale Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz 2021 'The Pursuit' Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 HHHH 94pts HHH 91pts Coonawarra 2020 HHH1/2 93pts 2020 HHH 91pts Estery plum bouquet Ripe blackberry bouquet Cabernet Sauvignon Sweet minty/menthol Hints of green capsicum and a dry blackberry/ and jammy fruit palate 2020 HHHH1/2 varietal fruit well on the nose and a plum palate with sweet with soft savoury 96pts integrated with the full-bodied red fruit/oak spicy oak, soft tannins tannins. $17 Sweet aromas of vanilla oak. Good level of palate. $30 and light acid. $33 Archer's Point blackcurrants and acid. $14.99 Hoggies Estate Coonawarra Shiraz blackberries. Seamlessly Brand & Sons Byron & Harold Coonawarra Shiraz 2021 HHH 91pts smooth palate with 'Bandits' Rose & Thorn Great 2021 HHH1/2 92pts A bright lift of minty/ lovely fleshy ripe fruit Coonawarra Southern Cabernet Good lift of blue fruit peppery aromas with a flavours that linger Cabernet Shiraz Sauvignon 2020 fragrances and peppery soft, sweet and fleshy across the palate. $50 2020 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts plum flavours on a palate. $20 Moppity Vineyards Dark fruits dominate Bright lifted blue fruits youthful acid driven Morambro Creek Lock & Key the nose with a good and big dusty tannins palate. $14.99 Wines Jip Jip Rocks Hilltops Cabernet concentration of black supported by crisp Mike Press Wines Padthaway Shiraz Sauvignon 2019 fruits on the lingering acidity. $32 Jimmy's Block 2021 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 96pts palate. $22 Single Vineyard Young and fleshy with Good depth of colour, Moss Brothers Reschke Vitulus Adelaide Hills Shiraz spicy/peppery black spicy black fruit nose Moses Rock Coonawarra 2021 HHH1/2 92pts fruits, soft tannins and with slight green note Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Softly structured high acidity. $23 and an elegant leafy Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 HHH 91pts wine with a nice Morambro Creek blackcurrant palate with 2020 HHH1/2 92pts Cola-like bouquet with concentration of ripe Wines Jip Jip Rocks fine tannins and high Very young; high in acid intense fleshy flavours blackberry fruit and Padthaway Shiraz level of acid. $25 and high in tannins with in the blue fruit/licorice toasty oak. $16.99 Cabernet Sauvignon Welland Valley & a unity of blackberry and spectrum. $32 Bec Hardy Wines 2021 HHH 91pts Valley Barossa red currant fruit. $32 Village Green Peppery fruit nose and Cabernet Sauvignon Schoolhouse Taltarni Vineyards McLaren Vale Shiraz chocolaty dark fruit 2020 HHHH 94pts Headmaster Estate Pyrenees 2021 HHH1/2 92pts flavours with high acid. A lovely blend of dark Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon A nice concentration Has potential. $23 fruit, fig and plum-like Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHH 91pts of blackberry fruit with Tenafeate Creek characters layered with 2020 HHH1/2 92pts Inky black and blue fruits savoury olive notes and Wines Basket Press sweet spicy oak and Blue fruit fragrances with some spiciness, lovely soft tannins. $22 One Tree Hill Shiraz crisp acid. $30 with a violet lift and high tannins and high Kyneton Ridge 2021 HHH 91pts Byron & Harold Rags lots of fleshy blue fruit acid. $NA Heathcote Shiraz Dark chocolaty aromas to Riches Margaret flavours with chocolate 2021 HHH1/2 92pts and blackberry/plum River Cabernet notes. $55 Erin Eyes Wines An elegant wine with flavours with good Sauvignon 2020 Moppity Vineyards Ballycapple Clare potential for ageing. It tannins structure. $35 HHHH 94pts Estate Hilltops Valley Cabernet has peppery fruit, good Bec Hardy Wines A well-structured wine Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2020 tannins and plenty of Pertaringa Lakeside with an attractive 2019 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 90pts acid. $30 South Australia ripeness of blackberry Intense stewed fruit Subtle fruit aromas with Schoolhouse Shiraz 2021 HHH fruit, hints of olives, characters here just good core of varietal fruit Headmaster 90pts high acid and grippy starting to show some on the palate; subtle Coonawarra Shiraz Savoury blackberry fruit tannins. $32 leathery development. oak. $30 2021 HHH1/2 92pts characters with a violet Altus Rise $35 Cassis aromas and lift and subtle use of Ascension Margaret Kyneton Ridge SHIRAZ & good tannic grip to the oak. $17 River Cabernet Macedon Heathcote BLENDS 2021 palate with a combo of Mr Riggs Piebald Sauvignon 2020 Cabernet Shiraz sweet berry and oak Adelaide Hills Syrah HHHH 94pts 2021 HHH 91pts 16 TASTED flavours. $55 2021 HHH 90pts A nose of licorice and A youthful wine with 15 AWARDED A purple wine with violets with intense loads of flavour. Good bright red fruit, chewy blackberry flavours, good varietal fruit and nice Very strong consistent tannins and a lean line of tannin structure and acidity. $28 class showing the acid. $30 subtle oak. $35 strength of the 2021 vintage. “The direction of shiraz is to the mid- weight wines,” said one judge. “This may result in similar wines across the different regions.” July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 83

NEW RELEASES SHIRAZ & Morambro Creek Forester Estate Mr Riggs Burnt BLENDS 2020 Wines Padthaway Home Block Block McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020 Margaret River Shiraz 2019 22 TASTED HHHH 94pts Shiraz 2020 HHHH 95pts 17 AWARDED Bright herbaceous cool HHH 91pts Inviting floral/musky climate shiraz with An attractive red fruit fragrances and Solid drinkable wines lingering black fruit combination of dark dark ripe fruit palate here, all very similar in characters, soft tannins fruits, sweet spices, oak with mouth coating style. “The best showed and good acidity. $35 and soft tannins. $35 tannins. $50 elegance, balance and Z Wine [RUSTICA] Gartelmann Wines structure. “Great to see Barossa Valley Mr Riggs Idle Lane Diedrich Reserve there were no stalky Shiraz 2020 McLaren Vale Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz or porty wines here,” HHH1/2 92pts 2020 HHH 91pts 2017 HHHH 95pts commented one judge. Wine driven by Excellent balance A big “serious” wine blackcurrant and black between ripe varietal still showing plenty of Mr Riggs Bolter olive characters. Well- fruit, sweet oak and fruit with blackberry-like McLaren Vale structured palate; good gamey notes. $35 varietal fruit and fresh Shiraz 2020 acidity. $25 oak. Years in it yet. $55 HHHH1/2 96pts Altus Rise Taltarni Vineyards 82 Metres Wines Dark, brooding and Ascension Margaret Heathcote Shiraz Yarra Valley Shiraz concentrated wine River Shiraz 2020 2020 HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts with peppery/spicy fruit HHH1/2 92pts A generosity of blue fruit Dark “moody” wine fragrances and sweet/ Purple wine with fragrances and flavours with pretty red and black spicy/peppery black fruit peppery fruit aromas, matched with plenty of varietal fruit on a light flavours with powdery fleshy blackberry jam- acid. $35 Talbots Block Wines palate. $18 tannins and high acid. $25 like flavours and soft The Sultan Clare Yarrawood Estate tannins. $35 Valley Shiraz 2018 Yarra Valley Shiraz Lange Estate Old Plains Longhop Byron & Harold Rags HHHHH 98pts 2019 HHH 91pts Providence Road Old Vine Adelaide to Riches Margaret An inky wine with Uncomplicated Frankland River Plains Shiraz 2020 River Shiraz 2020 aromas reminiscent of raspberry driven wine, Shiraz 2020 HHH 91pts HHH 90pts blueberry pie and those softly structured and HHHH1/2 96pts Chocolaty licorice Minty nose with black characters echoed on showing some depth. Vibrant savoury fruit characters on the nose pepper lift and jubey red the softly structured $19 bouquet with similar and a sweet peppery fruit palate with chewy palate with its fine line The Kings' Creed savoury characters on fruit palate. $25 tannins. $32 of tannins. $39 McLaren Vale Shiraz the palate balanced with Taltarni Vineyards 2019 HHH 91pts red fruits, chocolaty Pyrenees Shiraz SHIRAZ & Mr Riggs Binbrook Big broad stewed fruit oak and grippy tannins. Viognier 2020 BLENDS Barossa Shiraz 2019 style starting to show Clean finish. $32 HHH 91pts 2019 & OLDER HHHHH 98pts some age with soft Nose shows good lift of A nose of red fruits and tannin structure. $25 Erin Eyes Wines fruit with an elegance of 14 TASTED white pepper combined Sidewood Estate Stone of Destiny varietal fruit flavours. $28 11 AWARDED with sweet oak. Spicy Signature Old China Clare Valley Erin Eyes Wines red fruit palate with oak Hand Adelaide Hills Shiraz Malbec 2020 Blarney Stone Clare Some great wines adding complexity and Shiraz 2019 HHHH 94pts Valley Shiraz 2020 here with the judges showing good depth of HHH 91pts Ruby red wine lifted and HHH 91pts having their favourites. tannins. $50 A pretty nose lifted and driven by a floral fruit Sweet and spicy “Although a few of the Quin Wines Barossa perfumed with maturing blend with some meaty blue fruit characters older wines were fading Valley Shiraz 2018 red fruit flavours and notes and nice soft seamlessly layered with most of them were HHHHH 98pts peppery notes. $50 tannins. $30 oak and acid. $30 holding up well showing Good nose with inviting Red Empress Zerella Wines the forgiving nature of raspberry and chocolate Barossa Shiraz 2018 Byron & Harold Workhorse McLaren the variety,” said one aromas. A generous, yet HHH 91pts Rose & Thorn Great Vale Shiraz 2020 judge. “The ones that elegant, palate with high Developed jammy nose Southern Shiraz HHH 91pts made it to the next quality tannins. “Very and sweet and spicy 2020 HHHH 94pts Intense peppery black level showed a balance classy wine,” said one plum palate with some Pepper and dried herbs fruit fragrances and between elegance and judge. $55 fleshy tannins. $50 obvious on the nose brooding fleshy fruit savoury characters Sidewood Estate with rich blackberry fruit flavours. $30 instead of the overripe Mappinga Adelaide flavours on a powerful Z Wine [RUSTICA] jammy styles.” Hills Shiraz 2019 palate. $32 Reserve Barossa HHHH1/2 96pts Valley Shiraz 2020 Pungent gamey/barnyard Moss Brothers HHH 91pts characters on the nose Moses Rock Lingering leafy blue with good depth and Margaret River fruit characters with a balance of savoury/ Shiraz 2020 perfumed lift and lots of meaty flavours and good HHHH 94pts sweet oak. $34 tannin structure. Old Nose has lingering blue school. $65 fruit varietal characters with a peppery lift that carries through to the structured palate. $32 84 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

NEW RELEASES FORTIFIED BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 1 TASTED 0 AWARDED Only one 2020 vintage fortified shiraz here that, as a youthful baby, wasn’t quite up to standard. “A red wine trying to be a fortified,” commented one judge, “Needs time!” $U2N0D&ER McArthur Ridge Lilico Mike Press Wines Single (NZ $25 & UNDER) Alexandra Central Otago Vineyard Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Rosé 2021 Pinot Noir 2021 Attractively scented, this bright Intense herbaceous cherry pink rosé was made from pinot bouquet with a ripe red/black noir, hand-picked at altitude flavour profile. “A typical Aussie in Alexandra. Mouthfilling, it style of pinot.” $17.99 has strong, vibrant flavours of strawberries, peaches Mike Press Wines and spices, a vague hint Phone: 0409 092 485 of sweetness and a fresh, Email: [email protected] crisp, lengthy finish. Full of Web: www.mikepresswines.com.au personality. NZ $24.99 Brandhouse Phone: +64274839923 Email: [email protected] Web: www.brandhouse.co.nz BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some TO QUALIFY wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others will sell out, or be replaced by 1 Wines must have first been recommended in Winestate Magazine higher-rated wines. style or new release tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing comprises tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as the best wines currently available, from big-name brands and shiraz/cabernet wines. the higher volume ‘second labels’ from the smaller producers, 2 Wines from designated regional tastings are eligible provided they as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines are widely available. listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much more available in the marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. expensive cousins. July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 85

WORLD’S BEST CABERNET The Deep Woods 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon has been named ‘Best in Show’ at the world’s most influential and widely recognised wine show, the Decanter World Wine Awards 2022. This Margaret River wine was the only Australian Cabernet Sauvignon to be recognised as Best in Show and one of just two Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the world to be given this honour. This award adds to an already outstanding Reserve Cabernet history. The last ten vintages have accumulated 38 Gold Medals and 17 Trophies, including the esteemed Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy and two Max Schubert Trophies. Scan the QR code to secure your pre-release allocation of this world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Limited availability. Visit DEEPWOODS.WINE

contact details BEST BUYS Kurtz Family Vineyards NZ RECENT RELEASE WINES OF VICTORIA Phone: 0418 810 982 Brandhouse Email: steve@kurtzfamilyvineyards. Brandhouse Gapsted Wines Phone: +64274839923 com.au Phone: +64274839923 Phone: 03 5751 9100 Email: [email protected] Web: wwwkurtzfamilyvineyards. Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.brandhouse.co.nz com.au Web: www.brandhouse.co.nz Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au Mike Press Wines Majella Wines Hunter’s Wines (NZ) Ltd Glenwillow Wines Phone: 0409 092 485 Phone: 08 8736 3055 Phone: +64 3 572 8489 Phone: 0428 461 076 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.mikepresswines.com.au Web: www.majellawines.com.au Web: www.hunters.co.nz Web: www.glenwillow.com.au CABERNET & CABERNET Monteperle Wines Rockburn Wines Ltd NZ Massoni Wines BLENDS Phone: 0415 912 878 Phone: +64 3 445 0555 Phone: 0409 008 846 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Blue Pyrenees Estate Web: www.monteperle.com.au Web: www.rockburn.co.nz Web: www.massoniwines.com Phone: 03 5465 1111 Email: carmel.keenan@ Singlefile Wines Pty Ltd ORGANIC WINES Silver Spoon Estate bluepyrenees.com.au Phone: 0409 108 166 Phone: 0412 868 236 Web: www.bluepyrenees.com.au Email: [email protected] Organic Hill Wines Email: vineyard@silverspoonestate. Web: www.singlefilewines.com Phone: 08 8323 1488 com.au Brand Group/Jim Brand Wines/ Email: [email protected] Web: www.silverspoonestate.com.au Nightfall St Johns Wine Web: www.organichill.com.au Phone: 0402 053 050 Phone: 08 9528 5001 Soumah Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Rosily Vineyard Phone: 03 5962 4716 Web: www.jimbrandwines.com.au Web: www.stjohnswine.com.au Phone: 08 9755 6336 Email: amanda.mooney@soumah. Email: [email protected] com.au Brangayne Of Orange Stage Door Wine Co.(Hallman Web: www.rosily.com.au Web: www.soumah.com.au Phone: 02 6365 3229 Pty Ltd) Email: [email protected] Phone: 0400 991 968 RIVER REGIONS Web: www.brangayne.com Email: graeme@stagedoorwineco. com.au Web: www.stagedoorwineco.com.au Corryton Burge (Burge Family NEW RELEASES Sixty Eight Roses Wine Estates) Phone: 0416 983 720 Phone: +61 8 8563 7575 Sidewood Estate Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8389 9234 Web: www.sixtyeightroses.com.au Web: www.corrytonburge.com Email: [email protected] Web: www.sidewood.com.au Trentham Estate Pty Ltd Forester Estate Phone: 03 5024 8888 Phone: 08 9755 2788 Talbots Block Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 0403517401 Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Web: www.foresterestate.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.talbotsblock.com.au SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED Geoff Merrill Wines Phone: 08 8381 6877 Zerella Wines Gralyn Estate Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8323 8288 Phone: 08 9755 6245 Web: www.geoffmerrillwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.zerellawines.com.au Web: www.gralyn.com.au Gralyn Estate Phone: 08 9755 6245 Henley Park Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 9296 4328 Web: www.gralyn.com.au Email: henleyparkwines@bigpond. com Haselgrove Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.henleywine.com Phone: 08 8323 8706 Email: [email protected] Web: www.haselgrove.com.au July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 87

on the scene E | [email protected] W | russellandsuitor.com.au russellandsuitorwines russellandsuitor DO YOU WANT OVER 500K PEOPLE VINEYARD EST. 1985 ELEVATION 890m TO SEE YOUR BUSINESS? Ph: (02) 6363 5602 PERFECT FOR ALL: Email: [email protected] • Cellar Doors • Restaurants • Online Liquor Stores • Wine, Whisky or Gin Bars • Accommodation / Bed & Breakfast Web: www.highlandheritage.com.au Gourmet Luxury Gift Hampers for personal or corporate gifts. Looking for collaboration opportunities to boost your bottom line, we would love to hear from you. Phone: 1300 284 684 Email: [email protected] Website: www.huntervalleyhampers.com.au Reillys Wines Cellar Door & Restaurant ‘Running on cool climate Syrah’ 2396 State Highway 50 ~ RD5 ~ Hastings 4175 A proudly South Australian owned and operated winery since 1993. We specialise in producing Hawke’s Bay ~ New Zealand. premium red and white wines sourced from our Phone: 06 879 7778 ~ Email: [email protected] estate vineyards in the Clare Valley. www.trinityhill.com Phone: (08) 8843 9013 Cellar Door Wine Tasting in the heart of the Gimblett Gravels, Email: [email protected] Website: www.reillyswines.com.au everyone welcome. Open 7 days Artwine Cellar Door 72 Bird in Hand Road, Woodside SA 5244 Ph: 0400 270 584 • Email: [email protected] Cellar Door Open Daily 11am to 5pm • www.artwine.com.au We are leaders in the production of new-emerging varieties and offer you a unique seated tasting experience with varieties you may not have tried before. Magnificent views and local produce platters served daily. We look forward to welcoming you! ALPINE VALLEYS HUNTER VALLEY MARGARET RIVER SingleVineyard Small BatchWines Available online All wines available in our online store @ goldmanwines.com.au [email protected] @goldmanwines For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee. ph: 0417 451 102 email: [email protected] www.charnwoodestate.com.au 88 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

on the scene CORNIOLA WINES Corniola Wines is nestled in the heart of the famous Yarra Valley wine region in Victoria. YAR A VALLEY Experience the smaller, family owned and operated winery and Cellar Door. We are pleased to offer you our current range of wines made from hand-picked Estate grown fruit and from PUT YOUR BUSINESS HERE selected vineyards, with the focus being to create affordable wines of premium high quality. Contact Debra for details 100 Wills Rd, Dixons Creek VIC 3775, Australia Phone: 08 85379277 Phone: 03 5965 2393 Email: [email protected] Opening Hours: 10:30am – 5:00pm, Monday - Sunday • Online store • Distillery WWW.CORNIOLAWINES.COM.AU • Restaurant • WineTour • Bar • B&B GRAND MILLESIME Australia's Burgundy Specialist. Visit our website for a huge range of wine from Bourgogne to the finest Grand Crus. Well over 1000 different products always available including old vintages. Phone: (03) 9326 5737 Email: [email protected] Website: www.grandmillesime.com.au FOARGYOIFUT GIVE A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION! Do you know someone who would love Winestate Magazine as much as you do? Call us today on +61 8 8357 9277 or visit www.winestate.com.au July/August 2022 W I N E S TAT E 89

aftertaste ELISABETH KING PERFECT MATCH - PROFESSIONAL AND DIY WINE PAIRINGS “There’s another school of thought, though, which bypasses hard and fast rules about pairing red wine with meat. A lot depends on the sauce, seasonings, cooking method and accompaniments as well”. I’VE always loved menus with matching wine pie, scallop mousseline and citrus butter Tim Hanni, one of the first two Americans to suggestions, even though sommeliers have has become a hot Instagram favourite and become a Master of Wine, is an outspoken been a fixture for decades. For starters, tastes as sublime as it looks. Teamed with critic of traditional food and wine pairings. His you can relax and let someone else do the the Villa Maria Single Vineyard McDiarmid “party trick” is to pour two glasses of wine - thinking and deciding. You also discover Hill Chardonnay and flanked by hand-picked one red and one white. Then take a sip of the interesting wines that you might not have mud crab, preserved lemon mayonnaise and first and then a lick of salt. Sip the wine again chosen yourself. And, lastly, a complete salted brioche, you could have been in a and the red will taste less astringent. Repeat package, so to speak, really adds to the Michelin-starred restaurant in Europe. with the white wine and it will taste richer and overall dining experience. smoother. Two meat dishes - beef tartare, bone marrow I was reminded of all these benefits at a cream and black truffle and heritage wagyu I like champagne or another sparkling wine lunch I attended recently hosted by Villa Maria rib-eye, beef garum, olive oil and lemon- with a steak. Because of its acidity sparkling in honour of the New Zealand stalwart’s 60th were partnered with three Villa Maria reds wine “cuts” the fat in steak, especially if it’s vintage and to celebrate the launch of the - the 2020 Reserve Pinot Noir, 2019 Single well-marbled. Steak tartare is also riding Icon and Single Vineyard Collection. Since Vineyard Attorney Organic Pinot Noir and high again and rose champagne is a great its founding by Sir George Fistonich, who 2018 Ngakirikiri Cabernet Sauvignon. A trio alternative to a red wine. received the first knighthood for services to that showcased bright floral and fruit aromas, the New Zealand wine industry in 2009, Villa bold tannins and minerality and aromas and Ceviche, the South American raw fish Maria has been at the forefront of transforming full-bodied ripe fruit with hints of black olive. salad, is also found on many restaurant industry practices and maintaining a strong menus. A champagne or sparkling wine commitment to sustainability. The meat and wine pairings reminded that tends toward the sweeter side really everyone of the old adage of selecting red blends well with seafood. The pairing is Last year, the company released its first wines to accompany red meat. Tradition also a winner with crab cakes and caviar, organic wine range, EarthGarden, more aside, there’s a solid reason for the age-old of course. One of my friends is a huge fan than 21 years after it started to grow grapes habit. Red wine is rich in tannins and meat of gourmet burgers with champagne. My organically. Matt Deller MW, Villa Maria’s is high in protein. The red wine makes the secret vice? A good sparkling wine with well- chief of global sales and marketing officer, meat less rich as it reacts to the protein and salted potato chips if you are really looking says that the global organic wine market is the meat makes the wine taste less tannic. for a maximum pop in the mouth. forecast by IWSR to grow 43 per cent by 2024 and New Zealand’s $2 billion wine There’s another school of thought, though, The other traditional notion I threw out years industry is well placed to capitalise on the which bypasses hard and fast rules about ago was the dictum that sweet wines should trend with 96 per cent of vineyards across pairing red wine with meat. A lot depends be reserved for the dessert course. The the Tasman now certified sustainable. on the sauce, seasonings, cooking method French have always enjoyed sauternes with and accompaniments as well. Veal is a good foie gras, especially to celebrate Reveillon - Deller presided over the celebratory lunch case in point and many Italian favourites New Year’s Eve. They are also keen on sweet at Mimi’s, one of Sydney’s most talked-about such as veal piccata go better with a wine with blue cheeses such as roquefort and restaurants, famed for its stellar wine list and white wine. Salt is a real game-changer full fat ones like camembert and brie. Oloroso views over Coogee Beach. New Zealand is as well. The more salt you put on a steak, or dark cream sherries are also a taste rightly renowned for its top class sauvignon for example, also makes a red wine taste sensation with blue cheeses from gorgonzola blancs and the meal started with openers of smoother. An important point to bear in mind to stilton, in addition to sharp cheeses such freshly shucked oysters with white kampot with the huge return of steak to popularity as manchego and parmesan. pepper mignonette, blue fin toro, confit tomato on restaurant menus and whether you like and warm crumpet and duck leg pastilla to season a dish further yourself. Port and stilton cheese are a British with spiced saltbush matched with the Villa institution. But sweeter wines like spatlese Maria 2020 Single Vineyard Taylors Pass There’s also a hot trend for aged steak. and auslese rieslings have a strong affinity Sauvignon Blanc and 2021 Reserve Wairau Many experts are not fans of young red for goat cheeses. Dessert wines are also Valley Sauvignon Blanc. wines with aged steaks and prefer a red classic with cheesecakes. Take a bite of that’s at least three years old, which is why the cheesecake and then a sip of chilled Every once in a while you encounter a we were given three- to four-year-old reds to dessert wine for an extraordinary mix of dish that’s a true standout. Mimi’s caviar go with the wagyu rib-eye at Mimi’s. tastes and textures. next issue: It’s everyone’s favourite issue featuring the World’s Greatest Shiraz/Syrah Challenge, Emerging & Alternative Varietal (EVAs) Awards and Pinot Noir. Plus, tasting the regions of Limestone Coast (including Coonawarra) & South Island (NZ). 90 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2022

www.winestate.com.au SPECIAL EDITION 2014 WINESTATE VOL 37 ISSUE 7 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 11,000 tasted annually MARCH/APRIL 2016 WINESTATE VOL 39 ISSUE 2 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews MAY/JUNE 2018 WINESTATE VOL 41 ISSUE 3 BEST OF THE WEST MCLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK, FLEURIEU & SURROUNDS WINES OF NSW NORTH ISLAND, NZ THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE WINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS RIESlINg QUEENSlAND SAUvIgNON blANc PINOT gRIS/PINOT gRIgIO WINE oF BAROSSA ITALIAN & SPANISH CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA ROSÉ CHARDONNAY MARLBOROUGH (NZ) Serious about special edition 2014 SAUVIGNON 6T9h-EPaygEe AR MAKING THE special feature BEST 150OF IT the best wines, winemakers & wine companies of the year Celebrating from australia & new zealand years! 237 PERSISTENCE &Italian Spanish pays off 176 tasted QUEENSLAND PrINT POST APPrOVED 100003663 Special Edition 2014 WINE AWARDS PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 March/April 2016 PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 May/June 2018 C O LELDEICTTI OONR S Vol 37 Issue 7 Vol 39 Issue 2 Vol 41 Issue 3 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NEW FEATURE TASTING $12.00 AUS (inc GST) $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 FRom ThE PRodUcER NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $14.99 gbP £8.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 EUR $9.95 HKD $120 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 CHF 15.00 China RMB100 CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 plus Rosé • Chardonnay & Blends • Central & Western Victoria plus Sauvignon Blanc & Blends Riesling Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • New Releases • Marlborough (NZ) plus Wines of NSW • Best of the West • McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Queensland From The Producer Best Wine Buys Under $20 Fleurieu & Surrounds • North Island (Gisborne, Auckland & Northland) NZ 266_CoverFRONT 216x297.indd 1 12/11/2014 9:49:00 PM 275_CoverFRONT_215.5x297.indd 7 18/02/2016 11:52:46 AM 289_CoverFRONT_215.5x297_FINAL.indd 1 13/04/2018 11:13:20 AM THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 WINESTATE VOL 39 ISSUE 5 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2010 WINESTATE VOL 33 ISSUE 5 ANNUAL 2017 WINESTATE VOL 40 ISSUE 1 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2016 IN REVIEW WORLD'S GREATEST SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XI SEMILLON RIVER REGIONS YARRA YALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIA OTAGO, NZ A Grape For World's greatest shiraz ChalleNge V seMilloN riVer regioNs Yarra YalleY & soUtherN ViCtoria haWKes BaY, Nz WORLD’S GREATEST All Reasons 780SHIRAZ CHALLENGE TASTED SPAIN’S NATIVE WHITE GRAPE VARIETY KOSHU COUNTRY Reinvention of an ancient A L L Uo fAR Elsace Japanese grape Vin2t0a1g6e Report OVER 450 TASTED 285 FASFTUanRd IOUS Featuring NEW Penfolds Grange RELEASES ANNUAL Wolf Blass Edition 2017 Bird in Hand September/October 2010 Henschke Hill of Grace Vol 33 Issue 5 Torbreck The Laird $9.95 AUS (inc GST) Pertaringa The Yeoman UK £3.95 NZ $10.95 PRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 Annual 2017 PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 September/October 2016 THE NEXT PRINT POST APPROVEd PP565001/00129 Penfolds Grange Vol 40 Issue 1 Vol 39 Issue 5 FRONTIER $14 AUS (inc GST) $12.00 AUS (inc GST) Otago's Pinot Noir THE IDEALS OF AN ICON NZ $15 SGD $19 NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 Wonderland US $17.99 GBP £11.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 Home Away FROM HOME EUR 9.95 China RMB120 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 FROM DOWN-UNDER TO THE BIG US OF A HKD $150 CHF 20.00 ZAR 250 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria River Regions The pick of the crop from over 10,000 tasted plus Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac • Semillon & Blends • Semillon & Blends Hawkes Bay (NZ) Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria • River Regions • Otago (NZ) includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2016 278_CoverFRONT216x297_FINAL.indd 1 27/07/2016 12:48:53 PM 236_CoverFRONT216x297.indd 1 28/07/2010 1:10:26 PM AUSTRALIA & NEW take out a subscription and save!ZEALANDWINE BUYING GUIDE PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR: SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE Australia which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. 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Life gets so hard and they just start to break This country was founded But there’s only so much by hard-work on the land any man or woman can take But after years of toil, Before life gets so hard our mates need a hand. and they just start to break Our world is unsettled Let’s not take for granted, and it’s taking it’s toll what our farmers provide And though our farmers are tough, It’s time to say thank you it’s breaking their soul and stand by their side. Our mates in the bush... So to all of our farmers, we can’t hear them shout. their families and friends From getting squeezed at the farm gate, We need you, we’re with you, between floods and drought it’s far from the end They’re strong and they’re proud And to my fellow aussies and they work to provide that live far from the gate They get kicked in the guts For our mates in the bush... and take it all in their stride It’s time to donate! It’s time to donate. ruralaid.org.au