Winestate Magazine July August 2016

JULY/AUGUST 2016 WINESTATE VOL 39 ISSUE 4 CABERNET & BORDEAUX ORGANIC WINES McLAREN VALE & SURROUNDS CLARE VALLEY TASMANIA WINES OF AUSTRIA SOUTH ISLAND (NZ) PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE XICABERNET & BORDEAUX CHALLENGE FEATURING Premier Grand Cru’ Château Lafite Rothschild Château Latour Château Haut-Brion ORGANIC Wines of Austria WINES F E AT U R E TA S T I N G • 1 2 2 TA S T E D 1 3 9 TA S T E D GROWING GREEN DEMAND SPIKES FOR Rosnay Wines natural approach ekhidna SOUTHERN STARS July/August 2016 New Zealand’s South Island Duo Vol 39 Issue 4 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) Kcaotcrhe-aupn NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 HOW THIS US $17.99 GBP £10.95 MARKET IS EUR $9.95 China RMB100 RE-EMERGING HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Clare Valley • McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu • Tasmania • Organic Wines • Cabernet & Bordeaux Varietals • South Island (NZ)

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NO.277 JULY/AUGUST 2016Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright2016byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisherassumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 5

contentsJULY/AUGUST 2016FEATURES 3426 KOREAN CATCH-UP 38 DEMAND SPIKES FOR EKHIDNA 30 Australian wine producers had built It might be on the smaller side of an enviable reputation in South South Australian wine producers, R E G U L A R S Korea up to the mid 2000s, but but Ekhidna Wines is building 10 Briefs then the Global Financial Crisis a big reputation in the McLaren 17 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper and a series of trade agreements Vale region. Dan Traucki writes 18 European Report with Sally Easton combined to price Australians out that Ekhidna owners Matt and 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley of the market. But, as Denis Gastin Katy Rechner continue to build on 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King reports, the playing field has been their enviable reputation with an 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel levelled and Australian reds in expansive portfolio of sparklings, 46 Grapevine particular are again finding favour. whites and reds after winning Best 54 Wine Words Australia Shiraz for their 2004 56 Wine Investment & Collecting30 GOING NATIVE Linchpin Shiraz. 62 What’s it Worth? Austrian grape growers are eyeing 145 Subscription Form native varieties as they continue 154 Aftertaste to rebuild the nation’s international reputation for producing fine wines, W I N E TAST I N G S reports Dan Traucki. It’s a long road back from the mid-1980s 38 64 Wines of Austria for the industry after a major wine scandal crippled production, but as 42 SOUTHERN STARS DELIVER 72 Clare Valley & Surrounding Regions Winestate’s comprehensive tasting ON STYLE 78 Merlot & Other Bordeaux Varietals of Austrian wines shows, they are making remarkable progress.34 GROWING GREEN Adopting a “natural” approach to growing grapes and producing fine wines has set Rosnay Wines apart in the viticultural regions around Cowra and Orange, says Dan Traucki. Nestled away in nearby Canowindra in the New South Wales central ranges, Rosnay has taken organic farming to new levels and is reaping rewards after taking the bold decision in 1998 to seek organic certification. Dwarfed by their giant neighbour 82 Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends Marlborough, New Zealand’s South 98 McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Island duo Nelson and Canterbury Fleurieu produce distinctive cool-climate wines, writes Michael Cooper. 110 Tasmania Tucked away in the northern sector 118 South Island (Nelson & Canterbury) of the South Island, the two regions 122 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases deliver some of the island’s finest pinot noir and in the white collection sauvignon blanc dominates followed by riesling in Canterbury and pinot gris in Nelson. 128 Organic Wines, New Releases and Winestate Magazine Best Value Buys under $20. Issue Number 277 July/August 2016 Cover photograph For a complete list of what we tasted for this efired issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au6 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

The New Zealand International Wine Show, now in its 12th year, is rmly established as the largest wine competition held in New Zealand. Entry is open for wines from any country and made from any variety. 2100 entries were received in 2015, with 221 gold medals awarded by 25 senior wine judges. Again we are honoured to announce Master of Wine, Bob Campbell will be back leading his highly experienced team and this year will be joined by Huon Hooke, one of Australia’s leading wine writers, critic and wine judge. Don't miss this excellent opportunity for your wines to win gold and qualify to be included in the judging for the prestigious international trophies. CLOSING DATE FOR ENTRIES: Friday 2 September 2016. For full competition terms and entry details visit: www.nziws.co.nz NEW ZEALAND INTERNATIONAL WINE SHOW 2016 AWARDING WINES OF THE WORLDPHASE3 - 1830

WINESTATE MAGAZINEMEMBER EVENTS 2016 - 2017JOIN US TODAY!By becoming a Winestate Member you will receive one complimentaryticket to all of our events listed below upon request!*SEPTEMBER 2016 APRIL 2017ADELAIDE - Winestate ‘Wine of the Year 2016’ ADELAIDE - Cabernet & Bordeaux tasting Subscribers Tasting Friday 7th April 2017 - National Wine Centre Adelaide (Tickets available early 2017)2 September 2016 - National Wine Centre Adelaide 6pm – 8.30pm(Tickets available June 2016) APRIL 2017NOVEMBER 2016 Italy - Wines of Australia - Vinitaly 9 -12 April, 2017 - Veronafiere, Verona, (Italy)QUEENSTOWN NZ - Wine of the Year Awards Lunch Contact [email protected] regarding tickets18 November 2016 - Gantleys of Queenstown (NZ) (Tickets available early 2017)Winestate Subscribers - NZD$95 p/p, Non-Subscribers - NZD$180 p/pADELAIDE - Wine of the Year Awards MAY 201724 November 2016 - Adelaide Convention Centre (Trade only) ADELAIDE - World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge XIIJANUARY 2017 Friday 26th May 2017 - National Wine Centre Adelaide (Tickets available early 2017)PERTH - Best of the WestFriday 20th January, 2017 - Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel, Riverside Ballroom SEPTEMBER 2017(Tickets available late 2016) ADELAIDE - Winestate Wine of the Year Australia & NZ Friday 1st September 2017 - National Wine Centre Adelaide (Tickets available mid 2017)* This applies to paid members only, on a first in/first served basis. Numbers strictly limited.

editorialTHIS ISSUE OFFERS A GREAT LOOK, and some of Nelson and Canterburyexplanation, of the great cabernet-based reds from the old world delight with their products.(France) and the new world (Australia and a bit of New Zealand). Here For our annual NASAAwe pitted the best examples we could find of these two wine worlds. Organic wine judging weWe featured the iconic and pricey French First Growths of Chateaux were delighted to tasteLatour, Lafite and Haut Brion up against some of Australia’s heavy over 130 wines, showinghitters. I am pleased to report that at the top level a couple that more the passion and trend forthan held their own in this blind tasting were the Reschke Empyrean this movement. While we2008 and the Gralyn Estate 2001 Cabernet. saw nice consistency andWith a nod to the old country, we also judged the so-called bordeaux very drinkable wines thisblend varietals (note small “b” to differentiate the wine style rather than year, and often superb fruit,the Bordeaux region). These are the red varietals that in addition to unfortunately some of thecabernet sauvignon can include merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and winemaking (whether bypetit verdot. The rarely seen carmenere is also a contender. While fault or limitations) left a little to be desired. We hope some concessionsthese are often regarded as varietals for blending, at their very best can be made in the future.they can also be superb wines in their own right. And now for something completely different. We were approachedWhat did we learn from this judging? Firstly, avoid the cheap French by the Austrian Chamber of Commerce to do a judging of their winesreds like the plague. Although they might look stylish, sometimes and public tasting, which we did and thoroughly enjoyed. The fulldistinguished, in the blind tastings they consistently failed to make the tasting results follow. It is interesting to note the different Germaniccut, with more wine faults than you can point a stick at! There was only style rieslings and the iconic gruner veltliners which are starting toone French wine in the under $15 category that made the cut. This create great interest in Australia.was also disappointing for us as we wanted to impress you with the For our articles we are pleased to present a story on the Ekhidnabreadth of wines that we tasted across a number of countries. Since winery from McLaren Vale and the award winning Rosnay Wines aswe only mention the wines we recommend in the magazine you will the lead-in story for the Organic tasting.Meanwhile, our columnistshave to refer to the complete list of what we tasted on our website for continue to entertain and educate. We have in this issue Sally Eastonfurther details.Having said that, the French First Growths we judged MW reporting on a decade of reform in the wine industry, Clive Hartleywere superb. So, secondly we can say that with imports the rule of coming out for sparkling shiraz, Elisabeth King giving her take on allthumb is that you get what you pay for. Thirdly, in Australia and New things lifestyle, while Jenny Port and Winsor Dobbin deliver our shortsZealand you can get excellent wines at an excellent price. Some are and regional items. For our Kiwi readers, Michael Cooper gives up hisseverely undervalued. Market your wines tothtohueghwtfuolrCldoo!per’s Creed column and our historian, Valmai Hankel,For our regional tastings in this issue we have a wealth of riches, joins in with the New Zealand travels of early wine pioneer and writer,ranging from the “middle palate of Australia” McJLoian rtheenAVusatrlaeliarneWgiinoenInwduhsteryreExport aAndnBduyreersSimon.big flavours reign supreme, with contrast frommitisssioenletogVaernontacino2o0l1-5climate Lots to read, lots to drink and lots to like.sNibexlint gweofhLaavnegthhoernveibCrarnetekb,eKrraynfglaavroouorsIsloafntdhcTVeaohinmenritwpeadaoldnyrileSd2ss’0soa1pan5urden–tmfhodVireeerbruruWonynneinarme,sFIsEtloaxeauhltyruiccb,iri2nthiig2oee-ni2nud5ate.nrMdnaathtrioecnhidaC2le0wahl1inf5eoeresu.mrsfo!r export-readyrieslings of the Clare Valley. Then add to this theM“oarkveet yrosuer wainse”s canodospli-rictsltiomaraoutned 50,000 international buyersregion of Tasmania where sparklings, pinots asnoudrcincghnaewrdsuoppnlienrsafryosm aollfofeverr tahe world - buyers from Western andcomplete change from the mainland, and weEastterrunlEyurohpae avned thdeiUvKe, rAssiiat,yth.eAUS and South America. Your wine,The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne isfurther island to the east called New Zealand athlesAousotrafflieanrsrepfrreosemntatiivtesoSfficoeuotfhVinitaly and provides assistance toour ports.Island great examples of cool-climate chardAuostnralnianawy,inepinidnuostrty pnroofeisrsioananlsdattendingPtheetsehrowS: imicespecially pinot gris, showcased at its finest.-- HFSlpigaehcrteebaonodtkhsinteagnsdsanbmdoocakoinlnlfgirsrmeaetgdpriaeocfecnroemsntmiaAlorduaatsetitsEornadliinaitVoerro/nPaublisher - Logistics Export Customer Service - Visitor registration 1300 134 096 ICCI Melbourne also actively promotes anEdqfuaicpilmitaetenstcoanntdacLt boegtwiseteicns the Italian and Australian wine industries and pro1vi3d0es0tr1a3de5s8er0v1ices for the wine industry: market research, businIemsspliostrintgCs,ubsutsoinmeses rmSatecrhvinicgeandMajor Sponsors and Supporters 1300 132 813 appointment agendas. For more information contact: New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, Inbound - 0508 333 666 Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 No matter what. E: [email protected] www.italcham.com.au www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsCHAMPAGNE FOCUS DUFFY WINS RECOGNITIONTHE 2016 Vin de Champagne Award is now open, offering two MULTI-talented Tasmanian winemaker Rebecca Duffy, of Holm OakAustralian wine lovers the chance to visit and immerse themselves Wines, has been recognised for her services to primary industry,in the wines and culture of Champagne. Candidates can apply in winning the Tasmanian Rural Women’s Award. Conducted by theone of two categories - professional, for those who work in the food Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation (RIRDC),and wine industry, and amateur, for experienced, keen wine lovers. the award recognises the contribution of women to primary industry and rural communities. With her $10,000 award, Duffy, who is also Conducted by the Champagne Bureau Australia, entrants are the secretary of the Tamar Valley Wine Route group, plans a cellarrequired to answer essay questions about the history, viticulture door study tour across Australia, the US and South Africa. “A lot ofand winemaking of Champagne. State finalists will then be flown to cellar door tastings in Australia represent standard tastings,” sheSydney for the final judging in a blind tasting of Champagne wines. says. “We want to create something different and compelling toThe winners receive a two-week tour tasting through Champagne. give people a reason to visit us,” explained the winner.For further information contact the Champagne Bureau Australia,www.champagne.com.au. RAISING A GLASSSTEPPING UP THE wine and beer habits of Australians have been revealed and they make for fascinating reading. In any four-week period lastIN a surprise move, Brown Brothers has bought one of the Yarra year, Australian adults consumed around 426 million glasses ofValley’s more successful and innovative wine brands, Innocent alcohol or an average of 23 glasses per person per four weeks.Bystander. The high profile brand is in the Giant Steps wine Roy Morgan Research has revealed that for every 100 glasses ofstable owned by brewer-turned-winemaker Phil Sexton. As part alcohol consumed in this country each month, 48 glasses are beer,of the acquisition, Brown Brothers will also buy the former White 25 are still wine, 11 are spirits, six are Ready To Drinks (RTDs), fourRabbit brewery site following its relocation to Geelong. The are sparkling wine or champagne, three are cider, two are liqueurWhite Rabbit building is next door to the now former Giant Steps/ and one is fortified.Innocent Bystander cellar door and restaurant in Healesville. Itwill become the Innocent Bystander cellar door. Consumers might “Especially striking is the fact that although a higher proportionbe confused at first to see both cellar door operations working so of Aussie adults drink wine, those who drink beer consume it inclosely together but Sexton will make the separation complete by greater volumes,” explained Andrew Price, Roy Morgan’s generalrebadging his cellar door as Giant Steps. manager consumer products.REWARDING INNOVATION NEW PARTNERSHIPTHE Victorian government is offering state wine producers grants HAVING already gone the path of bringing in financial partners -of up to $20,000 for individuals and $50,000 for collaborative and not enjoying the experience - Australian online wine retailerprojects to achieve growth in the industry. “Victoria’s premium wine Vinomofo has decided to give it a go again. This time Vinomofois the envy of the nation, that’s why we’re supporting the industry has secured venture capital investment of $25 million from Blueto ensure the world continues to demand our products,” said Sky Capital in order to accelerate its ambitious growth plans. TheAgriculture Minister Jaala Pulford at the April launch. Projects thatincrease wine tourism and cellar door sales, foster export marketsand training will be encouraged to apply for funding.10 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

briefsnew funding with Blue Sky on board as a minority shareholder willbe used to grow the company within Australia and in Asia, US,UK and New Zealand. Vinomofo co-founders, Andre Elkmeier andJustin Dry will also double their efforts to attract a bigger sectionof the Australian wine market with investment in multi-channelmarketing and advertising.WOMEN IN THE SPOTLIGHT QUIET ACHIEVERSTHE Australian Women In Wine Awards returns this year to THE Angove family is among the quiet achievers of thereward the good work of women throughout the Australian wine Australian wine industry - and the Angoves made very littleindustry, and champion equality and fairness for all sexes in the fuss about the 130th birthday of their business making winesworkplace. Categories for entrants have been increased, offering and spirits. Established in 1886 by Dr William Angove, theacknowledgement for women in the largely unsung areas of Angove wine business has evolved to be one of Australia’scellar door management and research together with winemaker most diversified and successful family owned and operatedof the year, viticulturist of the year, owner/operator of the year and wine companies. With grape growing interests across the manychampion of change. Awards chair Jane Thomson says she was regions of South Australia, it is McLaren Vale and the Warboysblown away by the enthusiasm from both men and women for the Vineyard that are setting the future direction for the family. Theawards last year. “The support received for the inaugural Australian Warboys Vineyard comprises 13ha planted to old vine shirazWomen In Wine Awards last year was overwhelming,” she says. and grenache. Over the last three years, the removal of merlot“These awards are a long time coming and we’re thrilled that the and cabernet sauvignon has made way for further plantings ofindustry has got right behind them.” Conducted under the auspices grenache, shiraz, carignan and Italian white variety fiano. Theof The Fabulous Ladies’ Wine Society, entry to the awards open vineyard is certified and managed with organic and biodynamicJuly 30 with finalists announced October 19 before the winner farming practices. “For us, organics is all about sustainableannouncements on November 15. For more information contact farming and soil health,” said Richard Angove. “At the end of thewomeninwineawards.com.au. day grapes derive their flavour from the soil in which they grow; our aim is to have the healthiest soil we possibly can, this means grapes of the highest flavour and wines that speak of where they are grown.” While history and a strong philosophy around the notion of family underpin the business, the fifth generation of Victoria, Richard and Sophie Angove are looking forward to where the business is heading rather than where it has been. “It is really important to recognise the enormously hard work our father John has done over many years, not to mention our grandfather, great grandfather and his father before him,” said Victoria. “We feel, though, that we are younger than we have ever been and have incredible opportunities ahead of us. It is exciting and a great feeling that our best winemaking is still in front of us”. Sophie recently joined the operation, meaning for the first time there are three members of the fifth generation of the Angove family working in the business. July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs NEW LOOK FOR LABELS presented at the home of another wine icon, Grange Hermitage, here at TWE’s Magill Estate,” said Federation president Tony THOSE familiar with the Wolf Blass label D’Aloisio AM. Maybe someone should tell Mr D’Aloisio that might be a little taken aback by the striking Penfolds Grange has not been called Grange Hermitage for new look for five new-release wines under over a decade.“This coveted life member award recognises the Blass and Blass Noir labels, which outstanding leadership and contribution to the nation’s wine sees winemaker Chris Hatcher and his industry over and above an individual’s career achievements,” team focus on winemaking experimentation he added. “In the case of John, Colin and Wolf they have given using grapes from established regions. in spades!” Former Jacob’s Creek chief winemaker Philip The new Blass range includes Black Laffer AM was the inaugural recipient of the award, and was Spice Barossa Shiraz 2014 and a Blass inducted in 2014. Black Cassis Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2014. The Adelaide Hills TASMANIAN FARE FOCUS provide the fruit for the Blass Noir 2015 Chardonnay, which is joined in that range THERE is a new look at former Hobart hipster dining outlet TQ on by a Blass Noir 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Elizabeth, which should by the time you read this have re-emerged from Coonawarra and a Blass Noir 2014 as The Quartermasters Arms - Bar and Eatery. Owner Stu Addison Shiraz from the Barossa. The Blass wines says the focus of the inner city eatery is “heavily on Tasmania - are available for $22 at Dan Murphy’s and taps, by the glass and menu”. Along with some European wines. BWS, while Blass Noir is available at Dan Former Ethos and New Sydney Hotel chef Blair Groenewege has Murphy’s for $35. been in charge of the kitchen for almost 12 months and Addison says: “It's been great to have someone both of his skill and work ethic to develop a creative partnership with”. The menu may include some of the following, depending on the season: southern fried free-range chicken wings, beetroot-cured Huon salmon steak on a stick, Bruny Island pulled wallaby tacos with house-made labneh, tempura Cygnet mushrooms with slow egg aioli and larger plates like free-range herbed charcoal chicken salad with organic greens or slow-roast Cape Grim steak plate with condiments and market vegetables. The Quartermasters Arms offers private dining rooms, cosy fireside lounges, outdoor people watching and a front bar with take out sales. Quartermasters Arms is at 134 Elizabeth St, Hobart; phone (03) 6236 9119.THREE OF THE BEST CLOVER COMES OUT ON TOPA TRIO of wine industry icons has been honoured at a special CLOVER Hill’s Tea Tree Vineyard in the Coal River Valley hasawards presentation in Adelaide. John Angove AM (Angaston), been named Tasmanian vineyard of the year by the RoyalColin Campbell (Rutherglen) and Wolf Blass AM (Adelaide) were Agricultural Society of Tasmania (RAST). Managed by Alex vanall named as Life Members of the Australian Wine Industry. All Driel, Clover Hill Tea Tree Vineyard impressed the judges as aare household names and their efforts in the nation’s vineyards, fine example of viticultural management, yielding high-qualitywineries and boardrooms have helped create a vibrant modern grapes for both sparkling and still wine production for the Cloverindustry and brought Australian wines to the attention of Hill and Taltarni labels.consumers around the world, the Winemakers Federation ofAustralia said. “John, Colin and Wolf have been named Life The 12ha vineyard is one of two operated by Clover Hill inMembers of the Australian Wine Industry, an award proudly Tasmania. The other is at Lebrina in the north of the state. It isadministered by the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia and planted with sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. The Milton Vineyard on the east coast was the runner up. Clover Hill is investing in a new cellar door at Pipers River which should be open by December. The competition is an annual initiative of the RAST to promote excellence in viticulture management, which, in turn, leads to the economic production of premium quality wine grapes. Entrants outline to the judges their production aims for the vineyard and are judged on all aspects of vineyard management in achieving those goals. Home Hill in the Huon Valley was last year’s winner.12 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

briefs menu includes the Royal Mail Hotel signature beef and lamb, reared on the neighbouring Mount Sturgeon property. The menu may include Great Ocean duck terrine with green pickle, organic chicken with Mount Zero grains and crab apple, or lamb shoulder with cumin and carrot, as well as pub classics with a Royal Mail twist like Port Fairy fish with hand-cut chips and the Royal Mail beef burger. A range of boutique beers, including the Royal Mail Hotel and Temple Brewing collaboration “Seasons Harvest” and speciality spirits are also available. The Parker Street Project is open daily for lunch from noon-2.30pm, dinner from 6pm until late, and for gourmet snacks all day. For bookings phone (03) 5577 2241 or visit www.royalmail.com.au.GOURMET DESTINATION GROWING DEMANDPARKER Street Project is the new lunch and dining option AUSTRALIAN wine exports continue to grow, with Wineat one of Australia’s most famous gourmet destinations - the Australia’s latest export report showing that there wasRoyal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld in Western Victoria. The new strong growth in the 12 months to the end of March 2016.offering opened mid-March in the area of the Royal Mail From April 2015 to March 2016, the value of wine exportedHotel formerly known as the Public Bar. The Parker Street from Australia grew by 13 per cent. The growth was drivenProject offering consists of seasonal, a la carte, ingredient- by bottled exports, particularly at higher price points. Winefocussed menu options alongside traditional “pub classics” Australia CEO Andreas Clark said: “It is very pleasing tofor the mid-priced diner. Executive chef Robin Wickens will see the increasing demand for premium Australian wines,feature more affordable options using ingredients grown in particularly in Asia. Bottled wine exports grew by 16 perthe Royal Mail Hotel organic kitchen garden - the largest cent to $1.7 billion, the highest value in five years. Thereworking restaurant kitchen garden in Australia - while was growth in bottled exports at all price points, but growthsommelier Marcus Radny will select wine flights from the was strongest at the higher end.” Howard Park Winesextensive wine collection to introduce diners to new tastes. commercial director Sue Henderson said her company’sThe space was refurbished with local artworks and freshly export success was due to a deep understanding of marketpolished wood floors - treading the line between gastro dynamics and most importantly, a high quality product.pub and fine dining - to introduce a new Robin Wickens “It’s vital to understand the competitive nature of thesignature menu that the chef describes as “simple, precise, market,” she said. “The consumer demand, trends andseasonally-driven comfort food.” The Parker Street Project understanding where your products compare against the competition are all key elements to success.” July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsPhoto credit: Id Photographics, Irene Dowdy. FESTIVAL ON THE MOVEPERSISTENCE PAYS OFF ONE of New South Wales’ most interesting and diverse wine festivals - unWINEd in the Riverina - has moved from its previousKEN HELM, one of the pioneers of the wine industry in the Canberra June date to the October long-weekend, the Riverina Winemakersregion, was told the region was far too cold for quality grapes. This Association has announced. Association vice president Andrewyear, Helm Wines is celebrating its 40th vintage and is regarded Calabria said the move would provide a number of benefits to wineas one of the leading riesling producers in the country. The lovers, not the least being warmer weather, and should encourageHelm family purchased land and started planting their vineyard more people to visit the beautiful Riverina region. As well as moreat Murrumbateman in 1973, moving to the property full time in reliable weather, the new date also provides a closer tie-in with the1979 and opening a cellar door in 1982. In 1988, Helm took early Taste Riverina Festival, which runs for the whole of October, andretirement from the CSIRO to run Helm Wines full time, was elected avoids any competition for accommodation due to the other eventsto Yass Shire local council and served 12 years, including two as held in June. unWINEd was launched by the Riverina Winemakersmayor. In 2010 he was appointed a Member in the General Division Association in 2002 and has run annually since. This year’s event isof the Order of Australia for service to wine industry. His daughter set to be bigger and better than ever, featuring a range of wine andStephanie now works alongside him. Great vintages like 1986, food related activities, winery tours, cooking demonstrations, wine1990, 1991, 1996, 2005, 2008, 2013, 2015 and 2016, make up blending and music. See more details as they are unveiled at www.for any bad seasons, Helm says. “It is with great satisfaction that I unwined-riverina.com. Griffith City Council tourism and economiclook back over 40 years and see the Canberra Wine region is now development manager Greg Lawrence welcomed the move, sayingregarded as one of the premium wine regions in Australia, if not it adds to what is becoming a busy calendar of activities to attractthe world,” he said. “It was not just me, but a group of dedicated visitors to Griffith. “This adds to the critical mass of attractions forpeople like Edgar Riek, John Kirk, Tim Kirk, the Hendry and visitors in October,” he said. “It is also very important as we willCarpenter families, and many other fellow winemakers who have be able to grow this event and secure the Griffith region’s positionfought the odds and criticism that have made the Canberra wines as a significant wine region.”great over the last 40 years.” The 2016 vintage was the earliest andhottest season on record, but looks like equalling the great 2013 BUCKING THE TRENDand 2015 vintages in production of quality wines. “It shows thedepth of the quality from Canberra can be realised across a range THAILAND'S tax system makes it difficult for hotels andof climate conditions,” Helm says. Helm Wines is at 19 Butts Rd, restaurants to feature good wines at reasonable prices. OneMurrumbateman; phone (02) 6227 5953, www.helmwines.com.au. of the properties trying to buck that trend and offer good-value wines to tourists is the recently opened Movenpick Hotel Siam Pattaya, at Na Jomtien outside Pattaya City. Swedish F&B manager Adel Mojarrad said: “The emphasis here is on quality. I’ve been working and living in Thailand for years, and have a good relationship with many of the best suppliers. I really chose carefully what wines I wanted to have on the list, both by the glass and bottle. We wanted to give guests something you don't find in many Thai hotels.” The house wine in the executive lounge is from Sidewood’s second label, Stable Hill Private Bin, and wines by the glass come from New Zealand, Germany, France, Australia, Spain and Argentina, ranging from Frankland Estate’s Rocky Gully Chardonnay to a La Posta Cocina malbec from Argentina’s Uco Valley. All cost less than $16 a glass - and14 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

briefsthe wines are stored in a temperature-controlled fridge/cellar. RELAX AND REJUVENATEThe luxury beachfront hotel has multiple food outlets and isknown for its buffet breakfast. Movenpick Siam Hotel Pattaya, THERE is a new option for winemakers, or wine lovers, whoNa Jomtien Sattahip, Chonburi, Pattaya; phone +66 33 078 find themselves having to spend a few hours hanging around888. www.movenpick.com/siamhotelpattaya. Melbourne Airport. The Parkroyal Melbourne Airport Hotel has unveiled a “swim and lounge” package for up to three hours for $15.NEW PLAYER IN THE SPIRIT WORLD That fee gains casual visitors access to the hotel’s leisure facilities, including the swimming pool, lounge and AIRO Bar & Restaurant.FIRST it was wine, then whisky, then cider. Now Tasmania is The hotel is a two-minute walk from both domestic and internationalset to produce its first commercial volumes of apple brandy, terminals via two pedestrian sky bridges. Day guests can relax andknown in France as calvados. In a new page in the history of rejuvenate in the hotel’s gymnasium, heated pool, whirlpool bath,artisan Tasmanian distilling, Huon Valley cider producer Willie sauna, steam room and bathrooms with complimentary amenities.Smith’s has unveiled the first Australia-built Alembic still that will There is also free wi-fi in the AIRO Bar & Restaurant, although you’llbe used to make apple brandy. It’s a $200,000 investment to need to pay for food and beverages. For those preferring to unwindfurther value-add to the Tasmanian apple industry and build on in a spacious and well-appointed day room, rates from $85 for aWillie Smith’s reputation as a producer of quality hand-crafted standard room with the use of all facilities (pricing for three hoursbeverages. About 180 people attended the official launch at $85, five hours $105 and eight hours $130; available betweenThe Apple Shed in Grove, conducted by the “godfather” of 7am-7pm daily). Visit www.parkroyalhotels.com.Tasmania’s whisky and spirits industry, Bill Lark. The eventincluded a barrel filling ceremony, with Lark filling the first LAUNCHING A NEW LOOK100-litre sherry barrel - a product that will be released in threeyears. Willie Smith’s head cider maker and now distiller, Dr Tim THE Madfish wine label, first launched in 1992, has been given aJones, said he was extremely pleased with the initial spirit run, new look by Howard Park Wines after almost a quarter of a century.saying: “the spirit is smooth and fine, with creamy complexity “The iconic ochre label has been in the market place for 24 yearsand apple aromas; it expresses the characteristics of the cider so we felt the time was right to refresh the look,” said Burch Familywe produce for this spirit and is also the result of this wonderfully Wines director Amy Burch. “While the bottles have a fresh, cleandesigned and built still. It’s a process of patience, but we think and modern look, the wine is still of the same high quality.” Theit will be well worth the wait!” In the shorter-term Willie Smith’s new labels were conceived and designed by West Australianis already selling apple schnapps and will be releasing pear companies Gatecrasher and Public Creative.and cherry schnapps made using the still in the next coupleof months. Peter Bailly, from Knapp Lewer Contracting, craftedthe copper still in Tasmania. It is the first purpose-built Alembiccopper still in Tasmania and probably Australia. Willie Smith’sco-owner, Sam Reid, said Tasmania now had 15 distilleries. “Wefeel that this will be another boost for tourism in the Huon Valleyand Southern Tasmania, and give people even more of a reasonto visit our great region,” he said. The Charentais Alembic stillwas designed in the early 16th century in the Cognac region ofFrance, where it is still used for fine cognac production. To thisday, it is the preferred still of choice for calvados producers inFrance’s Normandy region. July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 15

nzbriefsHIGH EXPECTATIONS Indevin is owned principally by Harrogate Trustee, itself controlled by Blenheim accountant Joe Wallace. It is believed that IndevinVINTAGE 2016 kicked off in New Zealand amidst expectations purchased Ara to cater for the projected big increase in demandit would produce a huge crop, far bigger than 2015 and on the for Marlborough sauvignon blanc in the US.scale of the mammoth 2014 harvest, which exceeded the previousrecord by nearly 30 per cent. FEWER PRODUCERS BUT MORE VINES The 2015-2016 ripening season took most growers by surprise. MORE hectares, fewer wineries is one of the surprise findings inLate in 2015, meteorologists were forecasting a drought-stricken Economic Contribution of the New Zealand Wine Sector 2015, asummer, similar to 1997-98, when the El Nino weather phenomenon report by the NZ Institute of Economic Research. Comparing 2015brought months of low rainfall and constant strong winds, turning with 2012, the report observes that NZ’s area of bearing vinesmuch of the land into a tinderbox. However, the summer of 2016 has expanded from 33,400 to 35,859ha, but the number of winebrought a flow of warm, humid, tropical air masses from the north- producers has slipped from 703 to 673. The number of employeeseast, rather than the south-westerly air flows associated with El in the wine industry also declined, from 7700 in 2012 to 7580 inNino. Changeable, chaotic weather in December was followed by a 2015. Tourism emerged recently as the country’s biggest industry,wet January and a warm, sunny, moist February. The warm air flows edging ahead of dairying, and 20 per cent of overseas touristsfrom the tropics persisted into autumn, bringing abundant rainfall to visit a winery - almost as many as those who set foot on a glacier,many regions in late March. In Marlborough, which has two-thirds and just ahead of those who visit a marae (Maori meeting ground).of the country’s total vineyard area, spring and early summer were Australians are the most likely to be found at the cellar doors ofsunny and dry, with average temperatures. “The rain that fell in the NZ wineries, ahead of Americans and Chinese.first and third weeks of January provided immense relief,” reportedVilla Maria. During February, the weather in Marlborough proved VILLA MARIA AMONG THE WORLD’S TOP 10warm, very sunny and dry. Thousands of tonnes of grapes were WINE BRANDSdropped from the vines as viticulturists dealt with heavy crop loads.One winery calculated that one of its most fertile sites, in the lower FOR the second year running, Villa Maria - often selected asWairau Valley, had the potential to yield 30 tonnes of grapes per Winestate’s NZ Wine Company of the Year - has been featured inhectare, far above the regional average of 12 tonnes per hectare. a Top 10 list of the World’s Most Admired Wine Brands, compiled in the UK by Drinks International. Founded in 1972, DrinksA BIG DEAL International magazine is “devoted exclusively to the global spirits, wines and beers market”. Compiled by polling over 200THE deal included 900ha of bare land that has been described as retailers, writers and educators, the list features brands ranging“the biggest single unplanted site in Marlborough”, plus 600ha of from “highly expensive, iconic wines to commercial brandsexisting vines in the lower Waihopai Valley. Although not disclosed, we see on supermarket shelves and in airport shops aroundthe purchase price has been estimated by UK trade publication, the world.” To make the list, wines should be of “consistent orThe Drinks Business, to be around $NZ283 million. improving” quality, reflect their region or country of origin, and have “strong appeal to a wide demographic”. “Villa Maria fits Winegrowers of Ara, which produced its first wines from the the bill perfectly,” declared magazine editor Christian Davis.2005 vintage, has been sold by Todd Corporation to Indevin. Todd “It’s a brand virtually everyone admires, respects and, mostCorporation is owned by the Todd family, worth about $NZ3.6 importantly, drinks. A flag bearer for everything that is goodbillion, according to stuff.co.nz. The Ara brand has been retained about New Zealand,” he said.and the agreement includes a provision for supply of wine byIndevin to Ara. Indevin focuses on growing, making and supplying Penfolds topped the list (climbing from third position in 2015),wine for large-scale partners, including Lion NZ, in the domestic followed by Torres, Ridge, Casillero del Diablo, Chapoutier,market. It owns or leases vineyards in Marlborough, Gisborne Guigal, Errazuriz, Villa Maria, Ch d’Yquem and Tio Pepe.and Hawke’s Bay, and also owns wineries in the three regions.16 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPER MAKING THEIR MARKWOMEN have long played key roles in the After growing up in Marlborough, Taylor these regional differences more.”New Zealand wine industry and are finally studied viticulture and winemaking at Winemaking is a positive addiction,getting their due recognition. When Kate Lincoln University, then worked vintages inRadburnd was inducted late last year as a Marlborough, Australia and Italy. In 2001, according to Julianne (Julz) Brogden,Fellow of New Zealand Winegrowers, she while holding full-time jobs elsewhere, who has found value in collaboration. “Itbecame just the second woman to join the she and husband George Elworthy, a self- involves physical, dirty, hard labour andindustry’s roll of honour. described “burnt-out” winemaker, who now long, crazy hours.” But friendships madeRadburnd is currently head winemaker, manages the company, produced their first around the world, “the many laughs,managing director and part-owner of the 400 cases under the Jules Taylor brand. great food, the loud, eclectic music andPask winery in Hawke's Bay. She is also of course the fine wine”, have made itchair of judges at the annual Royal Easter Today, Jules Taylor’s output has reached all worthwhile.Show Wine Awards, and has contributed 40,000 cases, including two sauvignonto a host of industry bodies. blancs, a chardonnay, gruner veltliner, Raised in Hawke’s Bay, Brogden has a pinot gris, rosé, sweet white wine and Bachelor of Wine Science who worked Of 28 Fellows inducted since 1982 by NZ pinot noir. for seven years in the Napa Valley. NowWinegrowers and the earlier Wine Institute back in the Bay, she works at the long-of NZ, the only other woman is Agnes Countless women, established Pask winery, but since 2010Seifried in 2014, who co-founded Seifried has also been crafting consistently classyEstate - originally called Weingut Seifried - including many part- wines under her own label, Collaboration.in Nelson in the early 1970s. owners, have worked in Brogden doesn’t own a vineyard or a Another honour stands out. Jane winery. “For every wine, I think about whatHunter, co-founder of Hunter’s winery, in the industry in behind-the- attributes I want to see in the final wine,Marlborough, in the 1980s, was awarded then source sites accordingly,” she says.a CNZM (Companion of the New Zealand scenes roles, while raising Family and friends help with the vineyardOrder of Merit) for services to viticulture in work. Other key supporters include herthe 2009 New Year Honours list. a family. partner, winemaker Richard Painter, who works at the Te Awa winery, and vineyard Countless women, including many part- “I try to make wines that have drinkability supervisor Sam - a Labrador.owners, have worked in the industry in and approachability,” says Taylor. “Othersbehind-the-scenes roles, while raising a produce wines that have incredible Brogden’s current releases includefamily. The vital contribution of women pungency but are hard to drink - and a fragrant, crisp and complex, stillto New Zealand wine is highlighted in they do well in shows, too. Maybe for us youthful Collaboration Aurulent Hawke’sa 2014 book, Passion, Pinot & Savvy – it’s been luck, or maybe the judges can Bay Chardonnay 2013, and an elegant,New Zealand Women Winemakers, by appreciate a range of styles.” concentrated, notably savoury andKirsten Rodsgaard-Mathiesen (Mad Frog supple Collaboration Ceresia Hawke’sProductions, $NZ35). The 16 women she She enjoys her own sauvignon blanc just Bay Merlot Cabernet Franc 2013, whichprofiles includes consultant winemaker when it’s selling out. “It starts to look great is already delicious.Lynnette Hudson, formerly of Pegasus at about a year old. At 15 to 18 months, it’sBay, at Waipara, who declares: “I would awesome, losing its ‘pick me’ character Other women in senior roles in the NZnever go out and buy a Marlborough and developing subtlety.” wine industry include Helen Masters, headsauvignon blanc and drink it.” winemaker at Ata Rangi; Tamra Kelly- How do Marlborough’s pinot noirs Washington, chief winemaker at Yealands One of the country’s most talented compare with those from other regions? Estate; Edel Everling, winemaker and co-winemakers is Jules Taylor. If her name “Martinborough’s are more earthy and owner at Johanneshof; Lucie Lawrence,sounds familiar, that’s no surprise. Jules Central Otago’s are bolder,” she says. principal winemaker at Aurum; TrudyTaylor Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc “Marlborough grows consistently good Sheild, head winemaker at Waimeahas won many top accolades, including fruit, with less of the ‘pinot noir on a Harley Estate; Misha Wilkinson, co-founder ofthe trophy for champion sauvignon Davidson’ effect. Rather than saying one Misha’s Vineyard; Christine Kernohan,blanc at the industry-organised Air New is the best, wine lovers should celebrate co-owner, managing director and chiefZealand Wine Awards (twice), yet is widely winemaker at Gladstone Vineyard. Anddistributed and affordable. the list goes on... July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWDECADE OF REFORM FINALLY DELIVERSTHE European Union’s wine sector is what happens in the new world). So, having plant anywhere. It could, theoretically,heading towards having undertaken uprooted 175,000ha in order to try to deal numerically at least, allow all the vines thatnearly a decade of reform. Discussions with endemic overproduction in the EU, had just been uprooted to be replanted.started in around 2005, with new legislation more hectares would now be allowed to These countries were concerned that morebeginning to be implemented in 2008. The go into the ground. difficult to farm areas, for example, hillsidesaim was to rebalance (over) production and mountainous slopes, remote locations,and increase competitiveness. Strategies This wouldn’t have particularly affected small vineyards, where viticulture performsincluded the voluntary (and subsidised) appellation wine. Appellation rules still a valuable eco-socio-cultural role, woulduprooting of some 175,000ha of vines (more apply, so, for example, if you planted shiraz be further marginalised and depressedthan the entire Aussie vineyard), different inside the Bordeaux appellation boundaries as land that is both more productive andlabelling rules, which included allowing EU you wouldn’t be able to call it Bordeaux. It easier to mechanically cultivate would bemember countries to blend across regions, might just be “wine of France”. And if you open to be planted. This latter point heldsomething the Aussies have done forever. planted cabernet sauvignon just outside some sway in the negotiations.The idea being to increase the competitivity the Bordeaux appellation boundary youof the EU with the wider new world, which wouldn’t be able to call it Bordeaux. That As the new, temporary, transitionaryhas much more relaxed production and would also be a “wine of France”. system stands, authorisation is still requiredlabelling rules. It used to be, for example, in order to plant a vine. Each member statethat you couldn’t write more than two grape In an organisation of 28 may only authorise an increase of 1 per centvarieties on the label, or if you did blend of the size of their country’s vineyard area.across regions, you could only label the different countries that They can do this each year. This shouldwine as the “lowest” denomination and avoid the “rush to plant”. However, 1 pernot put grape varieties or a vintage on between them produce cent of, for example, France’s 760,000ha isthe label. Reform has wiped away these still 7600ha. This equates to more than halfidiosyncrasies. some two-thirds of the of the plantings of the Barossa Valley, so it’s still a pretty sizeable chunk of potential One of the last things to be slotted into world’s wine, perhaps it is vineyard area.place is the abolition of planting rights,another thing that’s alien to new world no surprise that change Each member state must also keep aproducers. Effectively the EU has, for vineyard register, which will allow plantingsdecades, been operating a “one in, one comes slowly. to be controlled and measured. It isout” policy on planting of vines, so you envisaged this will allow each memberhad to uproot some vines in order to plant Even so, the issue of being able to plant state to better regulate vineyards accordingnew vines, though you could usually put vines liberally, so to speak, has been to the economic, social and environmentalthem in a different location. This restriction so controversial, that rather than being conditions present in each country,(kind of) ended at the end of 2015. Though absolutely abolished, a new system of including protecting vulnerable marginalif particular countries want to, they can authorising vine plantings in the EU has areas and those who work in them.extend the ban on new plantings until 2018. been created, for a transition period to 2030. It is thought this may avoid the The original aims for the abolition of The original idea was to abolish the ban feared “rush to plant”. Several years ago planting restrictions were to create more of aon new plantings. End of story. Effectively nearly half of the EU member states tried free market, to increase global competitivity,this would have meant anything could be to get the decision to abolish planting and create flexibility of supply, especiallyplanted anywhere, as long as someone rights reversed. They cited a renewed outside of appellation restrictions. It mightthought they had a good business plan overproduction, as anyone could effectively have created an opportunity to buildand could make a profit (pretty much like brands rather than appellations, with a wine labelled “wine of France” or “wine of18 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

Italy”, using fruit sourced from all over the Yorke Peninsula’scountry. The vision was also that this could award winninghave reduced supply costs and given EU vineyardmembers better tools to compete on theglobal stage where new world brandshave done so well, including making andmarketing “everyday” wines that focuson primary flavours rather than location/appellation flavour markers. It looks likefreeing up the supply base may have towait a while yet, but at least it has begun. Some important points to take from thisare that vulnerable, marginal vineyardlocations can be protected, where socialand cultural factors are important, and thefear of renewed overproduction mainlyapplies at the “everyday” end of themarket. Fears seem less substantiated for “terroir”wines, wines that speak of their origin ratherthan focusing on easy varietal definition.In Europe terroir wines are typicallyproduced within the appellation structurethat formalised long-established grapegrowing and winemaking traditions. Juststicking with one grape variety, we mighthope to taste some differences, perhapsin a tutored tasting, between pinot noir, forexample, from the Loire valley, Alsace, theCote d’Or in France, the Ahr valley, Frankenor Baden in Germany, and Alto Adige innorthern Italy. Burgundy experts mighthope to differentiate between the differentvillage expressions, even cru expressions,in the Cote d’Or. But this is a different worldfrom “everyday”, beverage wine, and it isthis latter market segment that the EU stillfinds a need to manage. In an organisationof 28 different countries that between themproduce some two-thirds of the world’swine, perhaps it is no surprise that changecomes slowly. July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYSPARKLING FUTURE FOR RED FIZZTHERE is a cringe factor when you broach Seppelts Great Western has had such an careful to avoid too much tannin pick-upthe subject of sparkling red wine. Nobody impact in the region (and it is a shame to as carbon dioxide in the final wine willknows if they are supposed to like it or not. see the fate of the historic winery lies in the accentuate any formidable tannin structure.It’s fizzy, strange, chilled (even stranger) balance as I write). Take for example Tom Morris of Rutherglen has been making itsand to cap it all, it can be sweet! No wonder Guthrie, owner of Grampians Estate: “In the Sparkling Shiraz Durif since 1990. Fifth-that it’s best described as a left-field wine late ’80s I decided to diversify my family generation winemaker David Morris saysthat rarely comes out from the cellar. sheep business and enter the wine industry they select older vine material for their by planting a small 4-acre vineyard. It was sparkling red. “Ours is shiraz dominant, However, historically speaking, Australia’s around that time that I got to know several but durif adds lovely richness and colour,love affair with red fizz dates back a long Seppelts employees and winemakers, but we have to be careful it doesn’t give usway, and is in good company. We got and it’s likely that the likes of Ian Shepherd too much tannin,” David comments. “Wethe idea from the French and if you look introduced me to this wonderful style and leave the wine in some older oak to matureback at old newspapers from the 1830s impressed upon me Seppelts part in the and allow the air to work on the wine andto 1870s there are literally thousands of polymerise the tannins, liqueuring at theadvertisements for sparkling burgundy. It’s an all-round product as end of the process also helps.”It all came from France and was a well-accepted style of wine. No wonder we the wine has a legendary The secondary fermentation occurs instarted making our own versions. bottle by the action of added sugar and ageing capacity that can yeast which takes around three weeks. What According to research done by John surprises me is that red wine still benefitsWilson the first records appear of a home- stretch beyond 20 years. from yeast autolysis. It’s not as thoughgrown sparkling burgundy in 1881, but the you can smell any bread dough or yeastyorigin of the grapes is unknown. On firmer history of sparkling shiraz in Australia.” characters when you have all that ripe fruit.grounds were the shiraz sparkling wines Like all wines, the source of the fruit for Morris explains that the yeasts gives the winemade at Auldana winery, just outside of a creaminess on the palate and in fact theyAdelaide, in 1888. Hans Irvine at Seppelts sparkling wine is critical. Quality grapes leave it longer on lees than other sparklingGreat Western started making sparkling mean ripe grapes, but this often brings wines. Usually the wine sits on lees for aburgundy and exhibiting wine in 1894 higher alcohol levels. The problem is that minimum of nine months, but some go asand many more followed after that. Colin sparkling wines only need a modest level long as eight or 10 years. Like champagnePreece, between 1930 and 1960, was of alcohol. Guthrie explains the balancing they stay fresh while in contact with the lees.another legendary Seppelts winemaker act: “Some of our best fruit goes intowho cemented Seppelts Great Western making our Rutherford Sparkling Shiraz. Producers choose between transfer andas the home of Australian sparkling red The 2016 vintage was extremely early, with traditional methods. The latter means theburgundy. In 1973 Preece was described alcohol levels way ahead of flavour, hence wine undergoes the process of remuageby Len Evens as “one of the greatest winemakers picking at unusually high and disgorgement followed by the toppingAustralian winemakers of this century”. sugar levels to get the desired flavours. up (dosage liqueur). “We use a little bitBut as the century closed the fashion died This year we have the very difficult scenario of vintage port sometimes,” confessesout for sparkling red, until we are now left of wines coming in with very high alcohol Morris. This is the point at which the finalwith a small band of dedicated producers levels leaving few batches with the desired sweetness of the wine can be determinedcentred on country Victoria and South 13 per cent alcohol level for a successful and the average sweetness level isAustralia. In the last 50 years it’s had a bad secondary fermentation.” approximately 25g/l. Transfer method doesrap and suffered from mass produced, low away with the process of remuage andquality imports such as Lambrusco and So ripe grapes are needed to make into disgorgement, and simply pumps the wineCold Duck flooding the country. But we are a base wine, but the winemaker has to be out and filters the yeast lees then returnspast that now and the style is on the up. the wine to a clean bottle.20 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

Morris Shiraz Durif is a non-vintage style 5 Star Winery - James Halliday Wine Companion 2015and Morris thinks this has its advantages. James Halliday Wine Companion - Top Ten Dark Horse Winery 2015“We are holding around 10 years of backvintages and being able to add these old Winery / Cellar Doorwines to the blend produces softness, Jeanneret Road, Sevenhill, South Australia, Australia, 5453whilst the youngest components, normallyaround two years old, gives it freshness T: (+61) 8 8843 4308 F: (+61) 8 8843 4251and fruit aromas,” he says. E: [email protected] Grampians Estates Rutherford Sparkling PO Box 61 Sevenhill, South Australia, 5453Shiraz is a vintage style and into its 12thyear. The secondary fermentation is www.jeanneretwines.comdone at Blue Pyrenees Estate under theguidance of winemaker Andrew Koerner.“As experienced and successful sparklingwinemakers, he and his team have guidedme in getting the right liqueuring rates toproduce a style which is balanced and notoverly sweet,” comments Guthrie. He goeson to add a valid point about the time ittakes to produce this style. “The base winetakes one year and then we like to keepthe wine on lees for three to four years toadd complexity and richness. Accountantsdon’t like these sorts of figures.” Sparkling reds go with rich foods such asaromatic duck, especially Asian-inspireddishes. It has also developed an affinitywith roast turkey on a Christmas Day.Guthrie suggests trying it with chocolatedesert and fresh raspberries. It’s an all-round product as the wine has a legendaryageing capacity that can stretch beyond20 years. Wine is an endearing subject because itinvolves learning about’s stories and lives.You can tell Guthrie and his wife Sarahare passionate about their RutherfordSparkling Shiraz and, sadly, that tooka deeper personal note when their sonThomas Rutherford (called Ford) wastragically killed in a car accident, agedjust 17, on Australia Day this year. Thiswine will now be a tribute to Ford. July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGGIN THE NEW TONIC FOR ADVENTUROUS SCOTSLIKE most historic European cities, next door to a hip bar/cafe called The Usher's of Edinburgh's moniker is a tributeEdinburgh tourism centres on a grab Royal Dick. The guides are enthusiastic to a famous clan of brewers and distillers,bag of well-known attractions. The Royal and knowledgeable, and regular tastings and the huge underground space laysMile, the castle, the Tattoo, the statue of punctuate the 50-minute tour. Still in the claim to the title - “Speciality Purveyor ofGreyfriars Bobby and the souvenir shops mood for Scottish gin? Head to the Stane Mankind's Greatest Creation”. In additionflogging bagpipes, shortbread and DVDs Bar in the stylish The Dunstane Hotel, to the well-edited bottle selection, notablyof Braveheart. The Scots also have a long Heads & Tales for creative cocktails and 56 Sierra Nevada Torpedo Extra IPA. Whiletradition of being masters of the slap down. North, a cosy bar specialising in gin (more 20 keg and cask pumps serve up draught than 200) and gourmet burgers. beer, including five made on the premises. I’ll never forget the time I was on a mediatrip to the Scottish capital and we were The best place to kick The Hanging Bat is widely recognised astaken to the venerable Clarinda's Tea Edinburgh's top craft beer destination. TakeRoom, whose founder was a friend of the off the juniper trail is a a close look at the line-ups dubbed \"strangenational poet Robert Burns. At the bottom of brews\" and \"farmhouse ales\", many of whichthe menu was the legend - “Please refrain visit to the Edinburgh Gin are lambic and seasonal beers. Over 100from writing postcards if the tea room is bottled brews are up for your delectation,busy”. Who were the main culprits, we Distillery. as well as deeply satisfying draught beersasked. \"New Zealanders\" came the tart from the Kernel and Thornbridge breweries.reply. The 195cm Kiwi in our party teared Craft beer is also on a roll in the city of The men's urinals are crafted from old beerup, not so much because of the waitress’s Sir Walter Scott and Olympic cyclist Chris kegs which adds to the fun of a night here.retort but because she reminded him of his Hoy. But homage must be paid at Theno-nonsense Scottish grandmother. Sheep Heid Inn, Edinburgh's oldest pub. The Guildford Arms has a lock on the With a history stretching back 600 years, title most atmospheric Victorian pub in There's plenty of similar nostalgic it's the whole tartan dream - log fire, old Edinburgh - a vision of etched glass, ornateincidents awaiting those tracing their beams and traditional Scottish pub games cornice work and a polished mahogany bar.Caledonian bloodline, but Edinburgh like skittles. The Angus Beef Pie tops the Order a traditional favourite such as a Well'shas a raft of more modern treats. The city hearty nosh menu. Bombardier Glorious English or an on-trendhas gone gin mad, for starters. The best Great Heck. Don't leave without a swig ofplace to kick off the juniper trail is a visit Two years ago, The Bow Bar won Dram Orach Slie, a lager from Clackmannanshireto the Edinburgh Gin Distillery. Three tours Magazine's Whisky Bar of the Year award. matured in whisky casks.are on offer - The Gin Discovery Tour for But there's a huge bottled beer menu,neophytes, the Gin Making Experience if including many of Belgium, Germany Many Scots are proud of their Vikingyou fancy yourself as a distiller and the and Sweden's finest brews. A row of heritage and Edinburgh has a liberalGin Connoisseurs Tour for sophisticated cask pumps also deliver frothy glasses smattering of Scandinavian bars andpalates. You are also invited to design of Alechemy Bowmania Pale and Happy eateries. Peter's Yard bills itself as a fineyour own gin cocktail and sample one-off Chappy, Cromarty's “new wave\" pale ale. Swedish bakery and its crisp breadsnovelties like the elderflower gin liqueur. The retro decor of vintage ads and pub are in hot demand in restaurants and trade knick-knacks dovetail perfectly with supermarkets throughout Britain. Pop in for Pickering's is the first new gin distillery the trend-setting amber ales. an open sandwich in the true smorgasbordto open in Edinburgh for 150 years. It's tradition. The Boda Bar looks like a Swedishworth the detour for its address alone, granny's sitting room - floral wallpaper and22 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

comfy sofas - and adheres to the Nordic SEPTEMBER 2016saying that the weather is never too cold,you are just wearing the wrong clothes. ADELAIDE - Winestate ‘Wine of the Year 2016’Even on a chilly Scottish night, the outdoor National Wine Centre Adelaide - Subscribers Tastingtables are full of happy diners eatingScandinavian food and enjoying cocktails. 2 September 2016 - 6pm – 8.30pm (Tickets available June 2016) In fact, it's tough to find Scottish foodat all. The Edinburgh Larder, just off the NOVEMBER 2016Royal Mile, is famous for its baps, thefamously soft breakfast rolls. But there's QUEENSTOWN NZ - Wine of the Year Awards Lunchnothing old-fashioned about the deli 18 November 2016 - Gantleys of Queenstown (NZ)offerings and bistro menus which use thefinest Scottish produce from local ewe's Winestate Subscribers - NZD$95 p/p, Non-Subscribersmilk cheese to smoked fish in inventive - NZD$180 p/pcontemporary dishes. ADELAIDE - Wine of the Year Awards Eager to try something you won't find 24 November 2016 - Adelaide Convention Centreelsewhere? The Haggis Burrito at LosCardos (Spanish for thistles) has built (Trade only)up a cult following, but don't order it toolate at night if you want to sleep soundly. JANUARY 2017For fine dining that takes a lot of beating,make a beeline for Aizle - pronounced like PERTH - Best of the Westhazel - it's an old Scots word for spark or Friday 20th January, 2017 - Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel,ember. There's no menu, you get what thechef fancies cooking that day. No bad thing Riverside Ballroomwhen its wild bream with sea spaghetti, wild (Tickets available late 2016)leeks and a beurre blanc sauce. APRIL 2017 Edinburgh has made an art oftransforming its glorious Georgian and ADELAIDE - Cabernet & Bordeaux tastingVictorian townhouses into boutique hotels. Friday 7th April 2017 - National Wine Centre AdelaideChannings Hotel occupies five townhouses,once the home of the great Antarctic (Tickets available early 2017)explorer, Sir Ernest Shackleton. Located inthe gentrified suburb of Stockbridge, where ITALY - Wines of Australia - Vinitalyscenes from The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie 9 -12 April, 2017 - Veronafiere, Verona, (Italy)were filmed, it's great value, too - from $160 Contact [email protected] regarding ticketsper double. A true Scottish virtue. (Tickets available early 2017) MAY 2017 ADELAIDE - World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge XII Friday 26th May 2017 - National Wine Centre Adelaide (Tickets available early 2017) SEPTEMBER 2017 ADELAIDE - Winestate Wine of the Year Australia & NZ Friday 1st September 2017 National Wine Centre Adelaide (Tickets available mid 2017) www.winestate.com.au July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 23

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE SIMON VISITS TE MATA IN NEW ZEALANDLAST time we met New Zealand journalist and the equivalent red from the McWilliams one received more than a tiny taste. As theEric Bradwell, who was one of a group range, a 1960 Bakano, “a deep red and “honoured guest” Simon received the firstaccompanying great French gastronomer good wine”. (Bakano was based on two glass of reasonable quantity. “We all sippedAndre Simon on his tour of the Hawke’s Bay hybrid grapes with occasionally a little our wine; my thimbleful disappeared in onevineyards around Napier. It was February cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir added. gulp,” remembered Bradwell. “There was14, 1964, at noon on a hot day for New Launched in the mid-1950s, it became NZ’s a deathly silence as everyone waited forZealand (30C). Lunch was at the May most reliable and popular dry red.) the Maestro’s pronouncement. What wasFair Hotel in Hastings and all the locals in his opinion of this 1912 claret? The worldthe group were craving a cold beer. But There were about 20 stood still. It was a historic moment forapparently “discretion triumphed”, and no the vineyard. Andre sniffed the bouquet;one dared to request a beer in front of the hopefuls looking to savour swirled the red liquid around the glass.august French wine connoisseur - most He drank. He looked at the ceiling. Heordered wine, with Cresta Dore being the historic wine, so no brooded. He drank again. ‘What’s yourespecially popular. (This was a fresh, opinion, sir?’ asked Warren Toogoodpleasant sparkling white made from Muller- one received more than a eagerly. Andre paused. He thought again.Thurgau grapes by McWilliams, which Then looked at his glass. ‘It’s kept itshad established vineyards and a winery in tiny taste. colour well,’ was all he would vouchsafe.Hawke’s Bay between 1947 and 1950.) As Subsequently pressed, however, heBradwell recorded: “eventually the waiter After lunch and more winery visits admitted that the wine had kept remarkablyreached Andre. ‘And what will you have, the group ended the day at Te Mata well. Beyond that he declined to elaborate.”sir?’ he asked. ‘I think I’d like a beer,' replied vineyards, described as Hawke’s Bay’sAndre. One could sense an atmosphere oldest vineyard. Although not the first to Simon’s own account of this momentousof anti-climax among the assembled be planted it was the one which had been occasion was brief. “The cork crumbledgathering. The waiter then moved on to me, “in constant cultivation for over 100 years,” to dust but the wine was still dark red andhis final customer. ‘And you, sir?’ ‘I’ll have noted Simon. “All the vines are European absolutely sound, free from the faintesta beer, too,' I said gratefully. We were the species growing on their own roots: they trace of acetic acid or sign of decay.”only two drinking beer, as the others looked have never had any phylloxera at Te Mata.”at us enviously’.” It was an appropriate occasion for Te Mata’s Simon could see the potential of Hawke’s proprietor, Warren Toogood, to bring out his Bay as a premium wine-growing area. At One-time Australian, later NZ wine grower most special wine - the last two bottles of the time of his visit there were fewer thanand head of McWilliams New Zealand, a 1912 “claret” bottled by his predecessor, eight winegrowers in the region, with aand also president of the Hawke’s Bay Bernard Chambers, who in 1892 had total area of about 200ha. “…winemakingWine Growers Association, Tom McDonald planted Te Mata’s first vines. Bradwell is not yet a major industry, but it mayshowed the group around the vineyards, pointed out that the company regarded and very likely will become much moreincluding two of his own. A champion of these two remaining bottles as “something important within the next few years,” hecabernet sauvignon, his 1965 McWilliams of a treasured family heirloom. But because predicted. Today, Hawke’s Bay is NZ’sCabernet Sauvignon Bin 65/3, released in of the distinguished nature of the occasion, second largest wine region, covering an1969, may have been NZ’s first cabernet the bottles were broached. After careful area of some 4774ha.sauvignon available for sale. decanting glasses were quickly produced”. The wines with Simon’s evening meal The Association put on a “very fine” buffet One can imagine the tension and sense of of fish at the Masonic Hotel in Napierlunch at the May Fair Hotel, Hastings. expectation. There were about 20 hopefuls disappointed. The unnamed importedSimon was especially impressed with the looking to savour the historic wine, so no whites “were no credit to their birthplaces”.langouste (crayfish) and also praised two Demand, he reasoned, “is probably verywines - the aforementioned Cresta Dore small for such wines so that they spend far too long a time in the icebox”. 24 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

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Korceaatcnh-upAustralian wine producers are chasinga bigger slice of the rich South Koreanwine market after years of falling sales.DENIS GASTIN wine imports, but it is now less than 4 per wine. Non-grape wine sales are declining, cent in both volume and value terms. The whereas grape wine sales, and sparkling wineSOUTH Korea is a market that has tended principal reason is that all of its competitors in particular, are increasing.to fall below the gaze of the Australian had progressively obtained special accesswine industry, yet wine consumption is to the market through free trade agreements Korea has had its tough times, but ansubstantial, and rising. More importantly, wine and, with import duties at 17 per cent, this irreversible modernisation trend kicked offappreciation in Korea is now a significant effectively priced Australian wine out of the well before the GFC and continues withand broadening aspect of the social scene, market. But now that the Korea/Australia gusto. There are the uniquely Korean trends,attracting renewed interest from exporting Free Trade Agreement (KAFTA) has finally particularly in fashion and in the media,countries. been negotiated and has come into effect, characterised by the very quirky pop stars the competitive turf has been levelled and such as Psy and his Gangnam Style, as After peaking in 2008 at $US167 million Australia is back in the race. well as scores of other pop bands with($A232m), Korea’s wine imports plummeted growing international audiences. But theby 32 per cent to $US 112m ($A156m) in 2009 In the 12 months to November 2015, modernisation impetus also includes highdue to the global financial crisis. However, Australian exports to Korea were up 18 per life in bars, restaurants and clubs. And, in sosince 2011, the Korean wine market has cent in volume terms and 8 per cent in value many of them these days, wine is a feature ofrebounded and the recovery now pushes terms, and are at their highest levels since a good night out.on. Wine imports rose 3 per cent to $US188m 2009. But Australia’s wine exporters still need($A261m) in the 12 months to November to understand a lot more about what drives The on-premise channel (restaurants and2015 and 30 per cent in volume terms to 42 this market if they are to regain their position bars) accounts for about 30 per cent of themillion litres. and hold it. total wine sales in Korea and the category is growing rapidly - fed, particularly, by what Imported wine now accounts for just Having judged with Korean judges at the the industry is referring to as a mega-trend,under 5 per cent of total alcohol beverage Korean Wine Competition since its launch in and that is the ability of drinkers to bring theirsales in Korea in value terms, though a lot 2003, it has been clear to me that Australian own bottle (BYOB), dramatically increasingless in volume terms, according to the US wines suit local palates and local food - as drinking diversity.Department of Agriculture (USDA). That’s clearly shown in the results of the KWCnot a huge share, but it is rising, and USDA which have traditionally been dominated by A good indication of the maturity of the on-predicts that the Korean wine market will Australian medal winning wines. premise market segment is the special featureeventually grow to a size comparable to other in the February 2016 edition of Wine Reviewdeveloped markets. As an indicator, it notes Drinking is an important part of social life. magazine which featured the Top 20 Bestthat Japan’s wine imports in 2013 were $1.47 Beer and soju (traditional Korean hard liquor) Wine Lists in Korea. As would be expected,billion, nine times larger than Korea’s, though together account for a 76 per cent of the total all but three of them are in Seoul - the othersJapan’s population is only 2.5 times larger alcohol beverage market in value terms. in Busan, Incheon and Gyeonggi-do.than Korea’s. Korea is the world’s 13th largest However younger drinkers, especially female,economy and the OECD ranks South Korea are increasingly preferring wine. The article describes the theme of eachwith the second highest disposable income restaurant; for example Bover Lounge, asin Asia, just behind Japan. It is important to note that in Korea wine has “a hotspot for young Korean women for its a much broader dimension than simply grape glamorous interior design and menus ranging The major sources of wine imports are wine. Non-grape wine (takju, cheongju, yakju from brunch to dinner”. It also lists their houseFrance, Chile and Italy. Australia at one stage and bokbunjaju) accounts for as much as 90 wines and the Top 3 selling wines from theiraccounted for over 10 per cent of Korea’s per cent of domestic sales in this category, wine lists. but is progressively giving way to grape All but two of the Top 20 establishments July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 27

feature house wines, in addition to their tastings in Seoul in 2015 and, at the final one extensive wine lists. Up to 14 varietal wines in September, jointly hosted with Austrade, are offered in some establishments as house more than 350 guests attended - importers, wines, in most cases as wine by the glass. retail buyers, sommeliers and wine media. Some outlets change their house wine lists They were presented with wines from 50 on a daily basis. The Top 3 selling listed Australian brands (16 of them new to the wines for the majority of the establishments Korean market). The goal was to refresh are French, but Italy and Chile get a good awareness of the benchmark styles, but also run. Australia gets only one entry as a Top 3 to present new varietal and blended wines bestseller (Two Hands Gnarly Dudes Shiraz) from lesser-known, emerging regions. and two as house wines (both d’Arenberg’s The Love Grass Shiraz). It is significant that There are now around 400 grape wine all are shiraz because that’s where Australia importers and distributors in South Korea. stands out in this market. Some have been at it for decades. But many of the longer-established importers have been Dedicated wine bars and Western hard hit by the more recent practice of chain restaurants in five-star hotels tend to carry stores, department stores and hypermarkets shifting to direct purchases from foreign the most extensive wine selections in wineries, bypassing import agents in the the on-premise sector, most of which supply chain to secure lower prices. As a are mid-price through to high-price result, independent wine importers have had segment products. Many wines are to refocus their market strategies and develop only made available to restaurants different channels to consumers, particularly and bars as the importers do not on-premise. want consumers to develop price resistance if they are available The volume end of the market is dominated in retail stores at much lower by the chain stores that generally have prices. On-premise mark-ups designated wine sections offering a large are usually in the range of 100- selection of wines to everyday shoppers. 200 per cent. Some hypermarket stores carry up to 200 Wine Australia has been very different wines, most of which are entry level active in trying to recapture through to mid-price segment products trade and retail attention in the (under 60,000 South Korean Won, KRW, marketplace to make the most of $A70). The chains have also committed to the new KAFTA. It held three major private label products for price and loyalty28 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

control. For example, leading chain store largest portion of the gift wine sales. programs. In 2015 over 70,000 peoplegroup Shinsegae Emart’s “G7” wine brand An indication of how seriously the world attended the Wine & Spirits Fair. Almosthas become the company’s leading seller. 40,000 tickets were issued for entry on the wine industry now views the Korean market trade-only days. One part of the exhibition Convenience stores are another emerging is that one of Asia’s largest wine competitions, hall, featuring public tasting of Asia Wineplayer in the market. Although outlets The Asia Wine Trophy, is now held annually Trophy medal winners, was accessible to thegenerally carry a tiny range of stock (up to a in the city of Daejeon, south of Seoul. It is public for the first two days and the publicdozen SKUs), convenience stores now offer managed by Deutsche Wein-Marketing were able to attend the commercial part ofthe most extensive retail network in Korea as (GmbH), which conducts the Berlin Wine the pavilion for the final two days.the total number of outlets across the nation is Trophy competition each year, and Daejeonfast increasing (reaching 25,000 stores at the International Marketing Enterprise (DIME). Another indication of the emergence ofend of 2012). Half bottles and 250ml bottles The Daejeon program is the sister event of a serious wine culture is the Korea Wineare increasingly popular as people tend to the Berlin Competition, basically a re-run with Association (www.kwawine.or.kr). It wasbuy them to take home with takeaway foods. an Asian theme. Both events are officially founded in September 2005 as an organisation supported by the International Organisation to help domestic wine connoisseurs and There are many stand-alone liquor/wine of Vine and Wine (OIV) and the Union people in the wine industry to develop ashops, either independent or under franchise, Internationale des Oenologues (UIOE). deeper understanding and appreciation,emerging in metropolitan areas. Some of the covering wine production, import, distributionspecifically wine-oriented liquor stores, in In 2015 there were 3920 entries, from 29 and consumption. It declares its top priorityparticular those operated directly by leading countries. The judging was carried out by a as being “to vitalise the wine market”. KWAwine importers, offer the most extensive total of 117 judges from 20 countries. Over is holding symposiums, forming regionalselections of wine, targeting serious wine half of the judges were drawn from eight branches and converting difficult wine termsconsumers. The majority of sales in these countries in Asia, mostly from Korea. into the Korean alphabet. It is also workingoutlets is from mid-price through to high-price with domestic wine makers to elevate thesegment products retailing from KRW30,000 The Asia Wine Trophy is part of a huge quality of Korean wines with education and($A35) up to KRW100,000 ($A117). wine event held in Daejeon in late August/ technical support. early September. Two other major coinciding Wine sales in these outlets peak during the events are The International Wine & Spirits So, it is a market to watch. local festive seasons: Korean Thanksgiving Fair and The Asia Wine Buyers Conference.Day (Chu-Sok, late September), Christmas, Because of these coinciding events, and Previous page top: A group of young Korean'sNew Year’s Day, Lunar New Year’s Day (early their broad international content, very large enjoying wine.February), Valentine’s Day (mid-February), attendances are assured across a wide Previous page below: Seoul, South Korea at theand Parents’ Day (mid-May). Wines are now profile of the wine industry - from informed Bukchon Hanok historic district.replacing the traditionally popular gifts - consumers, through to representatives ofwhiskey and other hard liquors. Products in the wine media, wine trade and educational Top from left to right: Aligoté Restaurant, in Gangnam-the mid and high-price segment constitute the and research institutions with wine industry gu – a very fashionable Seoul suburb. Kimchi and wine pots in Hanok village. Opening ceremony for the 2015 wine fair in Daejeon. The 2015 Asia Wine Trophy judges table. July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 29

AUSTRIA’S WINE INDUSTRY IS LOOKING TO NATIVE GRAPE VARIETIES TO REGAIN ITS REPUTATION AS AN INTERNATIONAL PLAYER IN THE WINE WORLD.30 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

Going NativeDAN TRAUCKIWINESTATE has conducted the first significant Australian and highly organised country which produces around 25 milliontasting of Austrian wines. Before you peruse the results of litres (2.7 million cases) of wine a year.this landmark tasting, here are some interesting facts aboutAustrian wine. Those few Aussies who have heard of Austrian wine think it is all about the classic European white wine varieties - riesling, The small, land-locked nation of Austria used to punch well sauvignon blanc and chardonnay as well as perhaps the starabove its weight in the international wine world - just like native white variety, gruner veltliner - however there is a lotAustralia has been doing in recent times. Lead by its amazing more to Austrian wines than that, as these days around 30 persweet ice wines and enhanced by Reidel, the world’s leading cent of Austrian wines are red.wine glass manufacturer, their winemaking prowess was wellrecognised and appreciated around the globe. Then in 1985 In addition to gruner veltliner, Austria has a number of nativeAustria suffered a wine scandal which saw a few unscrupulous varieties that are just starting to make their presence felt in thewinemakers shatter its reputation and exports. It was a sad wine world. In the whites these include neuburger, rotgipfler,affair, with nearly 4000 years of history and reputation wiped zierfandler and roter veltliner. The red native varietals areout in one fell swoop. blaufrankisch, zweigelt, st laurent and blauer wildbacher. While many of these names are tongue twisters, the main thing to After introducing the most stringent wine rules in the world, remember is that Austrian whites are generally light, bright,Austria has slowly been clawing its way back into the global crisp to steely and are both enjoyable on their own or with food.spotlight thanks to the amazing job being done by the crew The reds are elegant, complex, lighter in style (than Aussieat the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB), coupled with reds), cool-climate wines that can be thought of as “being likethe resurgence of interest in Austria’s native grape varieties. a pinot noir that has been working out at the gym”. The classic European varieties such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot To put Austria into an Australian context, the country is only merely play a supporting role in Austria, with eight times more22 per cent bigger than Tasmania, or roughly one-third the size blaufrankisch planted than cabernet. In the whites the skew isof Victoria, and yet is home to some 8.6 million people (Tassie even more dramatic, with fifty-five times more gruner veltliner500,000 and Victoria 5.3 million), making it an intensely farmed July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 31

The classic planted that sauvignon blanc - the most planted “European”European varieties white varietal. such as cabernet Austria has two official wine classifications - Klassic and sauvignon and Reserve. Klassic wines are released as soon as possible aftermerlot merely play vintage and contain under 13 per cent alcohol. They are more a supporting role straight forwardly made and are less complex wines. Reserve is the designation for Qualitatswein (Quality) wines of more in Austria. than 13 per cent alcohol. These wines are at least 12-months old when released and generally have been made in a more complex style such as longer oak maturation or matured on lees, etc. So if you see a wine Klassic you know that it will be lighter and fresher in style than one labelled Reserve, which will have greater depth and be more complex. There are also strict rules covering pradikateswein (sweet wines), which cover the whole gamut from spaetlese through to the world-class eiswein (ice wine), made from frozen grapes with amazing levels of grape sugar. The 2015 vintage, which was harvested in September/October, is showing great promise as a classic year, with many exciting wines, despite isolated incidents of heavy hail. AWMB reported that: “The most important variety gruner veltliner consistently yielded very juicy, nicely rounded wines with a rather mild structure of acidity”. It went on to say that the reds were looking as good, if not possibly better, than the excellent 2011 vintage and that the vintage was shaping up superbly for sweet wines. Around the country 2015 was a superb vintage set to enhance32 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

the reputation of Austrian wines across the globe and providea great deal of drinking pleasure.One of the interesting features of Winestate’s tasting was theconsistency of quality of both the gruner veltliner and riesling.While the style and taste of the 30 or so gruner veltliners andrieslings in the line-up varied depending on how the winemakermade the wine, as a Klassic or Reserve, the inherent flavourand quality of the wines was amazingly consistent.The range of Austrian wines available in Australia is growingas more people become aware of them. There is also a smallnumber of Australian wineries producing excellent wines fromAustrian varieties, especially gruner veltliner. At present thisfocus is in the Adelaide Hills where wineries such as HahndorfHills, Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy, Eccentric Wine Company,Longview and The Pawn Wine Company, are all producingsuperb gruner. Then there is Canberra’s Lark Hill Winery whichhas won accolades in Austria for its gruner.So, “seek and ye shall find” because Austrian wines are reallyworth the effort. Previous page: Wine list wood engraving, published c. 1876.Opposite page: A view of buildings and vineyards in Krems, Austria during thesummer months.Top: Austrian vineyard at sunset. July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 33

GROWING GREEN

DAN TRAUCKIROSNAY Organic Wines is based in Producing wine, olives and figs, theCanowindra, a small town between A 'NATURAL' property was set up as organic fromCowra and Orange in the New the original plantings, unlike manySouth Wales central ranges. APPROACH HAS other organic vineyards whichBoth towns are much better have been converted to organicknown for wines than what CATAPULTED ROSNAY after being conventionalCanowindra is. However, vineyards. Even the livingthis is starting to change, WINES INTO THE lawnmowers (sheep) seem tothanks to the efforts of the appreciate the pristine natureStatham family, owners of SPOTLIGHT AS THE of this property.Rosnay Organic Wines. In The family’s commitment to1997, the family established GROWTH IN ORGANIC organic farming has resultedRosnay, named after a in Rosnay winning the WINE PRODUCTIONmaternal French ancestor inaugural NSW DepartmentAlberic Dulong de Rosnay, a GATHERS PACE. of Primary Industries’ OrganicBeaujolais vigneron. Pioneers Award in 2012. The Organic wines means that the property has been certifiedwines have been made from grapes organic since 1998, and while it hasthat are grown without the use of any been run in keeping with biodynamic“artificial chemicals” such as systemic principles, the Stathams have shied awayfungicides, herbicides and synthetic fertilisers. from biodynamic certification. In their view,These artificial chemicals, by their very nature, have a biodynamics is an intangible, spiritual concept which causesconsiderable residual impact on not only the vineyard soils and misconceptions among wine drinkers, and which is difficult tovines, but they will also eventually flow into the wine we drink. measure and certify. July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 35

One of the most common misunderstandings in this field is used. They are hand plunged in the 780 litre open top fermentersbetween organic and preservative free wines. Organic wine is and they are basket pressed. The temperature control for thegrown without artificial chemicals, but it is allowed to have around ferments is done by placing the open fermenters in a cool room,half the conventional amount of sulphite preservatives rather than using the conventional brine cooling system.in it. Whereas preservative free is a label that The first Garage Wine made in 2014 was acan be attached to any wine that has been cabernet, followed by the 2015 shiraz andmade without the use of preservatives. this year there is a GSM (grenache/This does not mean that the wine Even the shiraz/mourvedre), an SMG (shiraz/is organic or biodynamic, just mourvedre/grenache), as well assimply that no preservatives an Orange wine semillon, whichwere used in its making. In living lawnmowers has been processed in a 675most cases preservative free litre ceramic “wine egg”.wines, while more vibrant (sheep) seem to As a mark of respect toand lively when very young, appreciate the the man who started thedo not last as long as wines family’s wine adventure,made using preservatives. their ancestral vigneronIt should also be noted that Alberic, the reserve winesAustralian winemakers, in pristine nature of are labelled “Le Gran Pere”.general, use lower levels of Whether made underpreservatives than their “old this property. contract or on the farm, theworld” counterparts. quality of Rosnay Wines shines. They have scored a hat trick of However, a preservative freewine can also be organic, as in the Greg Johnson Trophy wins for Bestcase of Rosnay 2015 Freedom Red. A Local Red Wine in the Cowra Nationalbright, lively, organic, preservative free, Wine Show in 2012, 2013 and 2014.shiraz mourvedre made only from the soft, The Rosnay experience can be much moretannin-free run juice. As Sam Statham says, “our than just wine tasting. Visitors can stay in the friendly,preservative free wines are aimed to be consumed soon after refurbished, original 1910 farmhouse and can also buy hampersrelease, or certainly within two years, to enjoy them at their best”. of Rosnay food products, which include delicacies such as figsThe same dedication that goes into the vineyard, goes into the in syrup, kalamata olives and olive paste. In April, they even havewinemaking. For the first 14 years until 2014, all the wines were open air screenings of Flickerfest, the Aussie international shortmade by a contract winemaker. From 2014 onwards, selected film festival.parcels of grapes have also been made into wine by the family Organic wine making is the way of the future, as Sam says, “weunder their Garage Wine label. As Sam says, “it is a very hands Aussies need to do more of it. The Kiwis are miles in front of uson social exercise, with input from friends, customers and even - within 10 years New Zealand wine will be all organic”. So let’smembers of the trade. It’s all about learning and experimenting”. all be part of the adventure and support well-made, organic andThese small parcels are literally handmade, with no pumps biodynamic wines such as Rosnay. 36 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

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demand spikes for ekhidnaDAN TRAUCKI reds are cold soaked and fermentedUNLIKE our spiky/prickly native A small operation in in the 35 one-tonne open fermenters that he has at his disposal.echidna marsupial, McLaren Vale’s McLaren Vale is making big The Ekhidna experience startsEkhidna (which stands for She Viper) with its three sparkling wines - aWines, are smooth and rich. While gains in the wine world. traditional sparkling chardonnay/svelte and elegant, these wines are pinot noir, a divine sparkling shirazcertainly no wimps; being big and (which is currently into its fifthbold, but unlike a lot of other uber vintage) and a sweet sparklingbig wines, they do not have tannins and acid jutting out to attack (which makes a stunning accompaniment for fresh apricots andthe palate. They are well-integrated, smooth, rich and a real labour peaches - divine).of love by owners Matt and Katy Rechner. The white wine range currently consists of a chardonnay,Matt started his winemaking career with Tatachilla Wines in sauvignon blanc and an Adelaide Hills fiano, with an arneis toMcLaren Vale in 1992. He remained there through the Lion Nathan come soon. They are all flavoursome, consumer friendly winesdriven amalgamation with St Hallett’s in 2000, before finally leaving which avoid the searing acidity that is usually found in youngin 2001 to pursue his dreams. Before officially kicking off Ekhidna white wines. The sauvignon blanc is very classy and muchWines, Matt did a couple of vintages in Sonoma, California, at more in a Sancerre style than that of a pungent New ZealandGeyser Peak, under ex-pat Darryl Groom. He also joined a small, sauvignon blanc.elite bunch of winemakers when he won the Best Australian Shiraz The style of red wines made at Ekhidna is big, but balanced andaward with his Ekhidna 2004 Linchpin Shiraz. well rounded. One could quite easily say that the eight-wine redEkhidna is a “small” operation in that it crushes around 300 portfolio is shiraz-centric, with the only red that does not containtonnes of specially selected grapes each year. Most of the grapes some shiraz being the Ekhidna Cabernet Sauvignon. There are fivecome from its own 20ha vineyard and this is supplemented by straight shiraz wines, starting with the delicious rosé, it is unlikecarefully chosen fruit from around 30 to 40 growers in the Vale many other rosé, which are sweet or sweetish, whereas this one isand Adelaide Hills. The winemaking philosophy is that of minimal crisp and refreshing. Each of the other four straight shiraz winesintervention, as Matt believes that most of the work happens out builds on the intensity and depth of flavour of its predecessorin the vineyard and that the winemaker’s role is to steer quality so that when you reach the Rarefied Air Shiraz you are into ubergrapes into the end product - wines that are as natural as possible. serious shiraz territory. The massively coloured, complex nosed,While the white wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks, his gorgeously rich 2012 vintage of the Rarefied Air Shiraz makes July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 39

The winemaking a brilliant accompaniment for a good, hearty meat dish - a real philosophy is that of winter warmer.minimal intervention, asMatt believes that most Like other winemakers around the country, Matt has declared of the work happens that vintage 2015 was somewhere between very, very good and out in the vineyard. sensational. He is excited about the wines that will emerge from this marvellous vintage, especially Ekhidna’s first graciano - a native Spanish red grape variety that produces vibrant, lighter- bodied, but big flavoured wines and is just starting to be planted seriously in Australia. The Ekhidna style of wines resonates well with the wine-drinking public. So much so, that around 1200 people a week have been passing through the Ekhidna Cellar Door and Restaurant. Apart from its delicious range of wines, the cellar door also offers seven of Matt’s excellent hand-crafted, small batch beers, including the very popular Ekhidna Ginger Beer. Additionally, just to round out the tasting experience, he also produces a preservative-free apple cider. As Matt says: “Our cider is just like eating apples without the chewing”. A statement which is hard to argue with, when you taste this sublime nectar. This is all part of the “natural” philosophy at Ekhidna. One fairly unique feature at Ekhidna is the “rare barrel experience”, where a small group of enthusiasts get to spend the day with Matt going through the winery, tasting wines in barrel and creating their own wine blend. They take home bottles of their unique wine. Having outgrown the current location, Ekhidna is looking for new, bigger premises, which it is planned will incorporate accommodation, so as to complete the total lifestyle offering to its customers. Due to the currently challenging retail environment, caused by the dominance of the major liquor retailers, Ekhidna is looking to focus its efforts more on the lifestyle aspects of wine, including social functions and accommodation. Ekhidna Wines is a showcase of what McLaren Vale and its exciting winemakers can produce - really worth a visit, but allow plenty of time as it is a bewitching experience. 40 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

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SOUTHERN Our favourite varieties are actually the aromaticsSTARS (riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot gris), which areDELIVER ON fine, elegant and truly delicious.STYLEHHHHHHHHHH42 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

MICHAEL COOPER Unlike Marlborough, renowned for Sauvignon blanc is the most widely sauvignon blanc, or Central Otago, planted white wine grape here, mostlyGROWN in the north of the South Island, famous for pinot noir, Nelson hasn’t built concentrated in the giant Wai-ataNelson and Canterbury wines are a lot its reputation on a single grape variety, vineyard, contracted to big companies.rarer than those of their giant neighbour, which some argue is a disadvantage in the But Waipara is better known for its diverseMarlborough, and well worth discovering. marketplace. Agnes Seifried, co-founder line-up of rieslings, at their best strikinglyThe two regions are home to 15 per cent in 1973 of the region’s largest winery, scented, intense and zingy.of New Zealand’s wine producers, but disagrees. “It is a distinct advantage. Ilast year, from 7 per cent of the total don’t think any one variety works best in Pinot noir has been the red-winebearing vineyard area, they produced Nelson. Our favourite varieties are actually success, yielding fragrant, weighty,less than 4 per cent of the country’s wine. the aromatics (riesling, gewurztraminer, generous wines, ranking among the pinot gris), which are fine, elegant and country’s finest. A study by Dr Roland Both are cool-climate winegrowing truly delicious,” she says. Harrison, of Lincoln University, is currentlyregions. Waipara, where over 85 per cent probing into the influence of Waipara’sof Canterbury’s vines are clustered, is Judy Finn, co-founder of highly soil types on its wines.fractionally cooler than Nelson. So it’s no acclaimed Neudorf Vineyards, agreessurprise that pinot noir dominates both with Seifried. “Having a hero variety can Harrison, an associate professor ofregions’ red-wine plantings. They also also be a bind... We have never had any oenology, says Waipara probably hashave the same major white wine variety difficulty co-promoting chardonnay, pinot the most diverse soil types in NZ. He has- sauvignon blanc - followed by riesling noir, riesling, etc…” she says. identified three vineyard areas in Waiparain Canterbury and pinot gris in Nelson. with distinct soil types planted in the same A highly distinctive, emerging Nelson clone of pinot noir. Nelson city, in the north-west corner wine brand is Aronui (from te kete o Aronuiof the South Island, vies regularly with - the basket of knowledge). Aronui’s “When you taste the wine from thethe North Island town of Whakatane, wines mostly flow from the 30-ha Whenua different soils, there are definitelyin the Bay of Plenty, and Blenheim, in Matua vineyard, in the clay-based Upper differences between the gravels, claysMarlborough, for the title of “sunshine Moutere hills, planted principally in pinot and limestones,” says Harrison. “Forcapital of New Zealand”. A popular tourist noir and pinot gris. me, the Waikari limestone wines’ tanninsdestination, Nelson is renowned for its were silkier. The best aromatics weregolden beaches, coastal Abel Tasman Aronui is owned by Kono, which off the gravels and those from clay hadNational Park, ecological reserve at has investments in beverages more depth.”Farewell Spit (briefly considered in the (including the large Tohu vineyard in1980s as a possible name for Cloudy Marlborough), horticulture and seafood. But the influence of soil on wineBay, but swiftly rejected), wilderness Kono itself forms a key part of Wakatu quality is still poorly documented. “Intramping, arts and crafts, and vibrant, Incorporation, which manages the assets Canterbur y, we can produce threearomatic wines. of descendants from four iwi (tribes) at distinctive pinot noirs from these different the top of the South Island. soil divisions. What we need to do now is Almost all of Nelson’s wineries - even find the individual pockets of distinction.the largest, Seifried and Waimea - are If you are driving south from Nelson, Think of Burgundy, a small area with afamily owned. This is a major point of heading for Waipara, look out for the huge range of wines. Distinction is whatdifference with the nearby Marlborough sculpture at the junction of State Highway people are after.” region, where vine plantings are 20 times One and State Highway Seven. Six yearsgreater than in Nelson. High land prices, in the making (from the idea of creating a Previous page: Seifried’s sweeping vineyards on thea shortage of large blocks suitable for regional landmark to its unveiling in late Waimea Plains in Nelson have for decades producedviticulture and the region’s distance from 2015), the wind-whipped riesling vine is richly perfumed, vibrantly fruity white wines, especiallykey transport routes, in the past slowed hard to miss at 8.5m tall. riesling and gewürztraminer.the spread of vineyards. As a result,global wine companies have not invested Pegasus Bay is the key long-term Top left: Visitors to the stylish Yealands Estate winery,in Nelson, although that hasn’t stopped producer at Waipara, founded in 1986. in the lower Awatere Valley of Marlborough, can take aNelson grapes being trucked eastwards Accolade, the global wine business that self-guided tour through the largest single vineyard inover the hills to bolster supply. grew out of Hardys, also has a stake, New Zealand. through its 2014 purchase of Mud House Wine Group and its Waipara Hills brand. Top right: Snow drapes the bird nets in autumn at Pegasus Bay, Waipara’s most prestigious producer, acclaimed for its rieslings, chardonnays, pinot noirs and dessert wines. July/August 2016 W I N E S TAT E 43

winestateadvertorial Australian producers at theAustralian peroduucgersaonnEeugaanenan Hhillislls, italyThe Colli Euganei are a group of hills which rise isolated on the Venetian plain. No matter which way one arrives at Venice, byfreeway, air or sea, their characteristic silhouette can be seen on the horizon. Due to peculiar soil conditions and mildMediterranean type climate found in the south facing areas of the Colli Eugnaei, both grapes and olives have been grown herefrom very early times.They were formed by the effect of two distinct volcanic periods and the terrains now found as outcrops consisting of hardvolcanic rock cones, alternating with flat areas of sedimentary limestone. The extreme variability of the Euganean soil (trachyte,limestone, clay, or combinations of these) and different microclimates in this tiny wine production zone, where Mediterraneanand Alpine vegetations can be found within the space of a few kilometres, offer a wonderful opportunity to grow different grapevarieties in conditions which allow them to express their variety character to their fullest.“Il Consorzio dei Colli Euganei” (Consortium of the Euganean Hills), founded in 1972, operates in this area to support the localproducers and to protect and promote the qualities of the DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) and DOCG(Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) wines of the area.The Euganean Hills offers a great opportunity to taste dishes made from recipes that have been passed down through thegenerations. There is so much to choose from; numerous agriturism sites, wine cellars, restaurants and trattorias.There are also so many towns with historic and artistic monuments that can be reached over easily accessible roadways orcharming paths set deep in the greenery. A holiday in the area is also a great opportunity to “get in shape”. Besides thenumerous outdoor sports activities available, the area is renowned for its spas. With its numerous hotels (all with their ownthermal baths), Abano Terme and Montegrotto Terme have great potential receptivity and can boast to being the world’s largestspa area.Vignalta was established in 1980. Since 1994, Vignalta is operating in the modern winery at Marlunghe, a suburb of ArquàPetrarca, where the noted Renaissance poet Petrarch lived. This cellar, dug into the rock of the Colli Euganei, presents nearperfect storage and ageing possibilities. In order to optimize quality, it has, since its origin, regularly used scientific instruments,such as geological maps, leaf petiole analysis, and wine analyses from the different soil types, Vignalta refined the relationshipof soil varietal compatibility. This research has led to the development of various crus, including the top vineyard of MountGemola. Vignalta expresses the best of what the Euganean Hills have to offer.Peter Jackson, Winestate sales manager, with a group of Australian producers, visited Vignalta winery on the 14th April 2016. It was a great opportunity to taste and compare Australian wines from different areas and Vignalta wines, such as their flagship wines Gemola (70% Merlot 30% Cabernet Franc) and Alpianae passito (100% Fior d’Arancio). The wines were matched with homemade tipical food. For info: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

Your International wine specialists.. 982-992 Port Road, Albert Park, 5014 P: (08) 8349 1200 F: (08) 8349 1277 E: [email protected]

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINTHE dining landscape of Melbourne’s All the gelati is churned daily on the All things to all people is the Sagrainner-north is constantly shifting - growing in premises using ingredients and in keeping ethos, but with a heavy Italian accent.various directions with new venues hidden with tradition all the gelati is served with an The restaurant, wine and food store anddown laneways and gelati shops sweetening optional “panna” - whipped cream topping rooftop bar opened in 2015, and is wowingup the Brunswick stretch of Lygon St. And - for an extra $1. As well as the cold stuff, the south-eastern suburbs with its modernthere’s some interesting movement in the Zero Gradi will serve granita (lemon and take on Italian food.south-east of town - an area of the city that almond flavours), Italian pastries and cakes,had little pep, vim or verve for a while - but and coffee. Shop 1, 93 Lygon St, Brunswick The menu is broadly Italian, there’s no focusis slowly swinging open doors on intelligent, East; phone (03) 9994 5303. on one particular region, and the use of thelayered offerings. The 400 Gradi pizzeria In another part of Brunswick, another Josper Oven (a piece of kitchen equipmentempire continues its expansion, but this time new restaurant opened in April. Host, by taking the restaurant world by storm thatits with gelati and not the award-winning husband-and-wife team Nedim and Majda is basically a wood-fired oven creating anpizza that owner Johnny di Francesco has Rahmanovic, opened its new dining room environment to cook caramelised, tenderbecome renowned for. The original shop in in a small back street of the inner-north and meats and vegetables) at Sagra, is usedMelbourne’s Brunswick was heralded as the name is a nod to what they love to do. in a variety of dishes, including grilled porkthe best new “old-school” pizza when it “In our group of friends we are always the ribs marinated in balsamic and ginger,opened about six years ago and since then ones who love having people over, hosting a certified Angus tomahawk steak withdi Francesco has gone on to open other people and we want to extend that here in kohlrabi remoulade or lamb cooked twopizza restaurants in Essendon, Ringwood Brunswick,” says Majda. The couple, who ways (roasted rack and slow-cooked rump)and at Crown Casino. He’s now giving are both trained graphic designers, sold among other dishes. The dining room is ahis dining public the choice of dessert, their tiny North Melbourne cafe, Twenty & bright homage to modern Italy; gone aretoo, with the April opening of Zero Gradi Six in mid-2015 as “we simply wanted to the cliches and nostalgia and embraced isjust down the road from his original outlet. do something different,” says Majda and the contemporary and the slick. Check outTry pistachio, salted caramel, chocolate they took on a laneway site on Saxon St. the dessert bar, the rooftop bar and if youand espresso flavours among a selection The former warehouse space has been can’t settle in, the food and wine store hasthat changes with the seasons. It all sits given the Rahmanovic touch - cosy booths you covered to take home salumi, antipasti,alongside a homage to di Francesco’s framed in timber rest down one side of the pasta and a little la dolce vita. 256 Glenferrieaward-winning margherita pizza and the long room. While down the other side are a Rd, Malvern; phone (03) 9079 5600. margherita gelato which is a combination communal and a handful of smaller tablesof red sponge soaked in the Italian liqueur (all the furniture is by Melbourne-based Above left: Sagra restaurant interior.strega, zabaglione gelato and a neutral- studio Moda Piera), an open kitchen and Above right & below: Food from Sagra restaurant.flavoured gelato coloured with green striking pieces by Sydney-based, Newchlorophyll extract. The ethos of the shop is Zealand-born artist Simon Kennedy. It’sbuilt on authenticity. “I wanted to produce a strikingly modern. The couple has securedgelato in Melbourne that is similar to what head chef Florian Ribul who most recentlyyou might find in Sicily or in Naples,” says ran the kitchen at the short-lived Enquiredi Francesco. Within in South Yarra and has worked good stints at Fitzroy’s Hammer & Tong and The Clove Club in London. His brief from the couple was to create a “contemporary Australian menu, that reflects the eclectic nature of Brunswick,” says Nedim. The menu has some stayers on it already - the raw beef, oyster and saltbush with linseed, being a case in point. Textural, savoury and silky, it’s a keeper as well as braised short ribs with onion, peppers and kohlrabi, and the cobia (Black Kingfish) is a highlight with smoked roe, purple carrots and mustard leaf. The drinks list embraces drops made with minimal intervention, featuring small boutique winemakers and brewers in the succinct selection. 4 Saxon St, Brunswick; phone (03) 9023 5317.46 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016

BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST RIVER CRUISE INTERNATIONAL DOMESTIC OPERATOR 2015 2015 2015European Wine Discovery with Dru ReschkeWine Ambassador Series – Rhine & Moselle DiscoveryBe joined by Wine Ambassador Dru Reschke from Koonara Wines Wine Ambassadoron a unique wine cruise celebrating the best of Europe. Dru ReschkeBoard your luxury river cruise vessel for 14 nights, and drift throughthe lush fields, spectacular valleys, charming villages and medieval Koonararuins from Amsterdam to Basel, and enjoy wines from Koonaraand local wineries along the way. Volendam NETHERLANDSEXCLUSIVE! Join Wine Ambassador Dru Reschke for wine tasting, AMSTERDAM Nijmegenpairing dinners, lectures and moreINCLUDED – Wine tasting at a local winery in Rüdesheim Bruges CologneINCLUDED – Wine tasting in Colmar on the Alsatian Wine RouteINCLUDED – All onboard meals and beverages^, locally-guided BELGIUM Antwerp Bonn GERMANYsightseeing, tipping, transfers, Wi-Fi on ship and port charges Maastricht Rhine RiverAmsterdam to Basel15 days from $8,495* per person, twin share Moselle River RüdesheimFly Free* FRANCE Trier CochemDeparts 30 September 2016 LUX. Bernkastel Luxembourg Remich Heidelberg Speyer ARIA 14 SHIP Strasbourg Baden-Baden RIVER Colmar Black Forest Breisach BASEL SWITZERLANDVisit aptouring.com.au/WineSeries or call 1300 216 380 or see your local travel agent*Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp), AUD, twin share and include port charges. Price is correct as at 11 May 2016 but may fluctuate due to changes in availability, surcharges, fees & taxes. Price based on EUDC15W: 30 September 2016 (Cat. E). ALL OFFERS: All offers are valid until 30 June 2016,unless sold out prior. Subject to availability, not combinable, available on new bookings only and may be withdrawn at any time. A limited number of offers are available on selected itineraries and departures. DEPOSITS & FINAL PAYMENTS: A non-refundable deposit of $3,000 pp must be paid within 7days of the booking. Final payment is due 100 days prior to departure. AIRFARE OFFERS: Subject to availability of airline and booking class. Once booking class sold out surcharges apply. Flights must be booked by APT. FLY FREE: Offer includes return economy class airfare per person and air taxes to thevalue of $1,000 pp. ^Complimentary beverages exclude French Champagne, premium spirits and selected wines. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT4327

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGTHE worst Turkish meal I have ever we opted to take a breather before the Greek restaurants dishing up traditionaleaten was in Glasgow. The poor chef larger dishes appeared. Kofte are much favourites. While updated nursery foodwas desperately trying to create maligned, but the beef kofte, white bean from transplanted British chefs unfailinglylush Mediterranean flavours with the and tahini piyaz at Anason showcases how gets an automatic tick. Ignore many of the“wrong”onions and meat bereft of the masterful the Turks are with minced meat. reviews and take Bistrot Gavroche for whatmelting tenderness associated with top The mulloway baked in paper, lemon and it is. A great place to dine when you’ve hadflight Turkish food. Fortunately, Sydney has raki butter deserved its star billing. But the enough pasta, contemporary Chinese, Thaia plentiful supply of the right ingredients thrill of the night was the king prawns, spicy or fusion. Grandpa Henri’s pork terrine ento fuel the current wave of new generation sujuk, mushroom, kashar cheese guvech. croute is terrific and so is the crab royaleTurkish restaurants and one of the best of the The sort of dish that conjures up memories facon thermidor I ordered. Chef Colincurrent crop is Anason. The first restaurant of the fish restaurants under Galata Bridge references the old Les Halles tradition allto open on Wulugul Walk in the Barangaroo across the Golden Horn. By way of living the way - charcuterie plates, onion soup,development, the stunning fit out slots into culture, a fitting end to a meal is sutlac, the bone marrow on sourdough bread andthe waterfront Anadara building. Designed fragrant Ottoman answer to rice pudding. France’s number one dish - steak and frites.by interiors expert George Livissianis, large The poached quince, sour apple snow and Albeit, a ritzy version using Rangers Valleyceiling lanterns, woven cane chairs and a mascarpone also gave the thumbs up to 270 days beef rump. Tarte Tatin, chocolatedeep blue background punctuated with the Turkish mission to Sydney. To complete mousse and crepes suzette are pulling inconcrete, steel and mirrors recreate the the real McCoy experience, or whatever the a younger crowd who wouldn’t even knowsort of atmosphere found in contemporary Turkish equivalent is, don’t leave without they are supposed to be a cliché. BistrotIstanbul restaurants such as Changa and ordering coffee. Anason uses the finest Gavroche, Level 1, 2-10 Kensington St,X Restaurant and Bar. Such all-round Yemeni coffee beans, roasted locally, to Chippendale; phone (02) 9218 6668.superiority is a given when the man in add that final touch of integrity if any morecharge is Somer Sivrioglu, the renowned is even necessary. Anason, Wulugul Walk, Guillaume Brahimi isn’t in the kitchenchef and cookbook author whose Efendy Barangaroo; phone (02) 9188 1581. at Four in Hand by Guillaume. But hisrestaurant in Balmain kickstarted the influence is pervasive in this joint venturecurrent passion for modern Turkish cuisine. Authenticity is taken to the nth degree with the Public House ManagementSivrioglu has assembled an amazing team at Bistrot Gavroche. Owned by Frederic Group, from his fabled Paris Mash to theof young Turk chefs, including Murat Colin, a French chef who runs a restaurant seared fish in parsley sauce. For over 10Buvan from Attica in Melbourne, Ozge of the same name in Singapore, it has a real years, celebrated chef Colin FassnidgeDonmezoglu, formerly of gram in Istanbul, point-of-difference to the surrounding Asian attracted a loyal clientele to this iconicand Inal Erdener (ex 29 in Istanbul). A and upscale contemporary restaurants Paddo pub and Darrell Felstead (exhiring policy that clearly shows with the of Sydney’s most exciting new eat strip - Foveaux) continues to exert the same pull.arrival of the pillowy saj pita bread and Kensington St in Chippendale. More of a The pork terrine here is actually rilletes.sesame sumit with pumpkin humus. A throwback than a homage to the French Dishes not to bypass are the quenelle ofsatisfying nibble as you peruse the wine bistro tradition, the first floor venue, carved salmon mousse, baked potato mash (verylist. Sivrioglu has put together one of the out of an historic rum warehouse, could different from the competing Paris Mash)most interesting Turkish wine lists in town, have been put together by a movie set and reuben cromesques, croquettes filledincluding seven whites, two rosés and nine designer from the gleaming wood bar to with sauerkraut and shredded corned beef.reds, nearly all available by the glass. I the brass-railed seating and polished oak A reasonably priced wine list, Europeanchose a full-flavoured Fumé Blanc 900 entrance. Sydney was once full of French waitstaff and a welcoming interior havefrom Denizli, and my fellow diner picked a restaurants, but not any more. Apart from preserved the Four in Hand’s rep as oneCab Franc Merlot Petit Verdot R from Aydin. Felix in the CBD, it’s tough to track down of the hottest dining tickets in town. FourThere’s also an expertly edited beer and classic French food. Some critics have in Hand by Guillaume, 105 Sutherland St,raki list for those keen to explore more of slammed the approach as old fashioned. Paddington; phone (02) 9326 2254.Turkey’s alcohol heritage. We were off to For some reason, they don’t seem toa flyer with three share plates - heirloom have a problem with Asian, Italian and Above left: Beetroot, cracked wheat kisser, melon ballstomatoes, crumbled feta and simit chips; from Anason restaurant.octopus, beetroot and garden herbs kisir Above right: Anason restaurant exterior.(an inspired take on the traditional crackedwheat salad) and cured salmon pastirmawith zucchini and chilli oil. You can chooseto have every dish placed on the table atonce in the classic Turkish fashion, but48 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016



adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSTHE second coming of the first floor individual small treats, like the scampi, or and beautifully caramelised, with a potatoElectra House restaurant, now renamed to share - such as the “feast” dishes. In salad whose ingredients, like most of theLevel One, should turn out to be much one, a whole chicken is brine marinated vegetables, are sourced from his closemore successful than its predecessor, for 24 hours, slow cooked sous vide for friend and vegetable grower, FrancescoOlea. Olea looked great and had a highly six hours, dried then quickly deep fried Virgara. Chargrilled Spencer Gulf prawnscredentialed Spanish chef who was, to crisp the skin. Served with roti bread, served with smoky eggplant “caviar”inexplicably, required to produce upmarket compressed and cut in triangles flat bread make a fine entree, while pasta loversGreek cooking. Despite all the skills in the style, served with punchy harissa, lemon won’t go past the blue swimmer crab withkitchen it wasn’t convincing and it soon segments and a feta and mint salad, it has taglierini in a chilli cream sauce, one offailed. Now the place has been redesigned, distinctly Middle Eastern leanings. Level 1, the dishes that Pepe perfected at Cibo.again with an interesting contemporary 131 King William St, Adelaide; phone (08) Although Calabrian by birth, Pepe cookedfit out, and the kitchen is being run by 7123 4055. Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday, in Florence and knows exactly how aJapanese chef Satoshi (Sato) Kikuchu, dinner Tuesday-Saturday. bisteca alla Fiorentina should be - in thiswith a menu described as “Asian fusion”. case it clocks in at around 1kg, so unlessThat’s probably a misleading term. Asian Another chef to make a welcome one is very hungry it does the job for twofusion often leads to confusion; few chefs reappearance on Adelaide stoves is diners. Daily specials might include braisedhave really pulled that off. The reality here is Salvatore Pepe, who was an integral part rabbit with white wine and herbs servedthat Sato is a Japanese chef trained in the of the great success of the former Cibo with tagliatelle, or grilled swordfish withEuropean tradition who now brings multiple restaurant in North Adelaide, which closed roasted capsicum, and breakfast - eggsinfluences to his cooking - Japanese, its doors a decade ago. baked in tomato sauce, or frittata withcertainly, but also French, Middle Eastern Since then Pepe has been largely involved wood oven toast and all the trimmings - isand Mediterranean styles can be seen in other Cibo coffee chain activities, but available daily. Shop 105, Burnside Village,in various dishes, fortunately not all at the lure of the stoves has proven too 447 Portrush Rd, Glenside; phone (08)the same time. The result is a menu that strong and he’s back, again in a revamped 8379 8991. Open for breakfast and lunchchallenges in all the right ways, provides former restaurant, now renamed Pepe daily, dinner Thursday-Saturday.enormous flexibility and variety for the Cucina, located in Burnside Village. It fillsdiner, and is sufficiently innovative to please a deep gap in an area where good dining Meanwhile, Chloe’s Restaurant this yearculinary thrill seekers. Descriptions are opportunities are few and the good news for clocks up its 30th anniversary - just as itscryptic and fall under broad headings such former Cibo fans is that they’ll find several highly respected Nick Papazahariakis isas “land”, “sea” and “raw”, so interrogation of his more popular dishes back on the turning 70. But there’s no slowing down asof the wait staff might be called for, but you’ll menu. It’s a big, open space well lit through chef Johnny Triscari’s cooking continuesbe rewarded with dishes such as a mound north-facing windows, with a huge outside to evolve, and although the prices areof raw scampi piled on to a halved whole deck lined with potted olive trees. Central getting up there a little, this place is a lessonlime, with a hint of chilli and crunchy puffed to the open kitchen is a large charcoal in what constitutes good value for money.wild rice, the idea being that as you munch grill, which gives grill maestro Pepe a Chloe’s 140-year-old bluestone mansioninto the whole thing the resulting lime juice chance to shine with classic dishes such features fine antiques and paintings, awill instantly pickle the scampi. Fun and as chargrilled aged Angus steak with rocket 12,500 bottle wine cellar filled with well-delicious. Dishes are designed either as leaves and shards of parmigiano reggiano aged treasures, the appropriate Riedel on top, or chargrilled local octopus, tender glasses for even the cheapest drop and exemplary old-school service. Signature dishes include Kangaroo Island marron with a crisp duck skin salad or smoked duck breast with chargrilled eggplant and sauteed mushrooms, as well as an eight- course degustation menu. 36 College Rd, Kent Town; phone (08) 8362 2574. Open for dinner Monday-Saturday. Top left: Level One restaurant interior. Top right: Pepe restaurant interior.50 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2016