Winestate Magazine July August 2010

secondary characters, which were especially pronounced in the 1991 vintage - tarry, black earth notes within savoury blackberry and sour cherry fruit, almost at counterpoint to playful whiffs of brown spice, pepper and fresh-cut brambles. The palate is plush, with a rich, textural mouthfeel and firm, gripping tannins ensuring great length and persistence to the flavours, even after 18 years. By showing off older shiraz vintages of impeccable quality, Peter issued a timely reminder of what Clare does best - whether it is deemed fashionable by the wider market or not. The Armagh showcase reinforced that reputations are built on historical benchmarks of quality that should not be discarded or forgotten. Yet in tandem with this respect for history lies the seed of innovation. In a bold new step, Jim Barry Wines is the first in Australia to plant the popular Greek grape variety assyrtiko. About 200 vine cuttings were released from quarantine and planted in February, and are anticipated to be producing fruit by 2014, intended for a crisp and dry wine style similar to wines produced in Santorini that impressed and inspired Peter Barry. Peter also views the future of the Clare Valley through parental eyes, as the father of fledgling winemakers Tom and Sam Barry, who now run the Clos Clare winery that Peter bought several years ago - primarily because it includes part of the famed Florita riesling vineyards. “There’s a huge future here, and it’s all based on our tradition,” says Peter. “The great wines from here - our rieslings, our cabernets, our shiraz - sit among the great wines of the world, and that’s the message we have to keep broadcasting.”Above: Jim Barry McCrae Wood range. Below: The late Jim Barry taking a barrel sample. CLARE VALLEY TASTING STARTS PAGE 110.Opposite: Peter Barry & Jim Barry Wines, Old Cricket Ground Vineyard. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 51

Worldly Wisdom concluding a two-part series, d’arenberg winemaker chester osborn continues analysing the 2009 wine future rioja conference52 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

PERCEIVED HEALTH ISSUES [Don’t mark up as a percentage …will contribute to a fall in wine sales in the do more wines by the glass, and deliverUK, predicts Justin Howard-Sneyd MW fromthe British supermarket chain, Waitrose. ]a great experience with great wine. Waitrose has 4.3 per cent of the market - of glass a year, which equates to 6.4 Korea’s 17 million and India’s nine million.behind Tesco at 34 per cent and Sainsbury billion tonnes of CO². In other words, The Japanese drink only two litres per head,at 19 per cent - and half of the wine it sells are masses! Her answer is the new narrow- 60 per cent of which is consumed in Tokyo.promotional specials, although I have heard neck glass manufacturing solution, which Sixty per cent is red, 40 per cent white, 64Tesco and Sainsbury are closer to 80 per cent. makes cheaper, lighter, stronger bottles per cent is off trade, 33 per cent is cheap for shipping in bulk to overseas markets domestic wine (to be labelled Japanese; Despite Waitrose’s plans to lift store (currently 1.2 billion litres is shipped) only six per cent of the wine must comenumbers from 234 to 400 by 2016 and sales giving 30-40 per cent of cost savings. from grapes grown in Japan, while the rest isfrom £4 billion to £16 billion by introducing Another representative from consulting from either concentrate or very cheap wine).smaller convenience stores and a massive company Enerterra showed us howonline push, wine shelf space is shrinking, geothermal energy has produced winery Forty per cent of the consumption isgiving way to other products, such as power cost savings of 70-90 per cent. French wine. Japan is in a major recession,electrical goods. but now that a new Japanese Michelin Back to other world markets. Lisa Guide has come out, restaurant numbers While Justin pointed to the perception Perrotti-Brown MW, one of Robert Parker’s are growing, with wine sales rising. Lisaof health concerns about wine, he sees wine tasters, spoke about Japan. Japan pointed out that the barriers to sales are thata future for wine and fruit/herb blends: consumes 158 million litres of wine a year, there is little unbiased advice, languagesauvignon blanc with elderflower and compared to China’s 57 billion, Hong Kong’s difficulties exist and there is considerableginseng, or chardonnay, peach and green 23 million, Singapore’s 23 million, South parallel trading between Asian countries.tea, or Rioja, star anise and raspberry. Healso believes areas/appellations will meanmuch less than now, with increases in winetourism and the rise of independent stores.It’s also interesting to note that Waitrose hasinvested heavily in vineyards in England. This leads me to a very interesting talk byMiguel Torres, president of Bodegas MiguelTorres, speaking on “climate change - apractical case”. He believes the sea willbecome more acidic, with two-thirds ofCO² going into the sea, causing majorchanges to this environment. Maximumtemperatures in Spain have increased byone degree in the past 40 years, he says. His way around this has been to buyland for vines at altitudes of 1200m andcollect CO² from ferments, converting itto biomass with bacteria/algae to makeenergy, as well as using prunings andother plant material to generate power.This has all cost $4 to $7 million, but hashalved the company’s power use. Nicola Jenkin from resource consultantWRAP told the conference that, with 17.5billion wine bottles weighing an averageof 488g, the world uses 8.5 billion tonnes July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 53

Don St Pierre from ASC Fine Wines (the Sales of bag-in-box wine grew from 18 per His answer was, “Don’t mark up as abiggest Chinese distributor, currently cent in 2006 to 55 per cent in 2008, but the percentage, but rather as dollars per bottle,merging with Suntory) sees most of the good news for us is that the New World wine do more wines by the glass, and deliver aopportunity in China at $25-30 per nine-litre category is growing. Of the 688 importers great experience with great wine.”case and points out that the government trying to gain a foothold in the Swedishis trying to increase consumption of market, however, 60 per cent of the market The good news, however, for wineChinese-made wine. The challenges are is held by only 10. Journalists are extremely producers is that in the UK, on-premisethe inefficient and fragmented distribution important in these markets because you white wine sales now outsell beer for thechannels, low consumer understanding - cannot advertise. Interesting points are first time. Tim Hanni of Napa Seasoninglet alone brand awareness - high costs of that in Norway, big tax concessions exist company, Diversity Wine Awards andinvestment, scarcity of wine journalists, lack if the wine is under 12 per cent alcohol by Wine Quest, says we should quit food andof management staff and, again, parallel volume, and margins are fixed, so it’s really wine matching as we are all anatomicallytrading. Australia at this stage has 20 per easy to work out your competitors’ pricing. different and taste wine metaphorically,cent of the market, France 45 per cent, Italy such that each person experiencesand the US eight per cent, and South Africa There was quite some talk among the different tastes - so it doesn't work! Heand Spain five per cent. speakers about how important festivals are believes we need to offer a wider variety of becoming as a means of gaining wine brand wines in restaurants so the consumer can Scandinavian wine consultant Ulf recognition and about how restaurants better personalise the experience.Sjodin MW pointed out that serious wine charge exorbitant margins for wine. Robertconsumption in Scandinavia began only 25 Parker likened the common 300 per cent Returning to the future, Robert Josephyears ago. There are 25 million people there mark-up as “like being mugged”. Richard MW believes there will be fewer wineries,and overall they have high taxes on wine, Halstead of the marketing company wines and appellations (at least 2000with only Denmark being a free market. Wine Intelligence, pointed out “the lack fewer in Bordeaux). There will be moreSweden consumes 19 litres per person of motivation in the on trade, where wine informed labelling and more wines asper year, Norway 13 litres and Finland 10 is bought for the maximum amount of “Lovemarks” (those with brand identity,litres for a total of 500 million litres a year. money with the least amount of effort”. respect and enduring love, such as Grange and Cloudy Bay). He says there will also be more marketing groups of like-minded wine producers, ideally with similar tasting wines. New York Wine marketer Jeremy Benson says more consumers will be pooling orders to reduce prices. This is already starting to happen. At the very end of the seminar, the speakers listed future trends: more wine varieties, especially indigenous; increased quality, honesty with land use (as wine writer Andrew Jefford puts it, “STG”, or soil to glass transfer); new technology; interactive communication; the increase in biodynamic applications and reduction in sprays; and the emerging markets of the US and Asia. As David Cunningham from Constellation Wines put it, “We as a wine industry need a strong strategy for the future, to reduce costs, be authentic and innovative.” However, as Jancis Robinson pointed out, “Wine was like a peasant’s drink, very available and now we intellectualise it.” But the last words go to a not-so-clever Napa Valley wine company, Brunno, that paid $42 million to launch a product, only to have it crash out of existence the next day because of disgruntled discussions on Facebook and Twitter. The world is becoming an even smaller place!54 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010



melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVIN warm and the service supports the ethos with knowledgeable, friendly staff. 56 Acland St, St Kilda; phone (03) 8534 3030. Raul Moreno Yague, the Spanish native and former head sommelier at Vue Du Monde, has opened his own tapas and wine bar in St Kilda called Entre Tapas e Vinos. If you want to revisit Spain without the air miles this may be one of the closest experiences you’ll find in Melbourne as Raul has created a room that balances Latin chaos with professionalism and authenticity.The end of March saw the doors open list is smart, broad and precise, and as this Here you can enjoy classic tapas such ason Gordon Ramsay’s first venture into new establishment finds its feet it will be patatas bravas - spicy potatoes with aioliAustralia. Maze and Maze Grill opened in interesting to see how it will be received and - or sardinas a la brasa - charcoal-grilledthe Crown Promenade complex to much evolve as a Melbourne restaurant. Crown sardines, but Raul has developed moderninterest and some excitement. Ramsay Metropole Hotel, Crown Casino, 8 Whiteman twists throughout the menu to match hisappointed one of his lieutenants, Josh St, Southbank; phone (03) 9292 6211. Spanish-only list of wines he importsEmett, to run the show here in Melbourne himself for his establishment only. Thereafter Josh worked for the Ramsay Group Restaurants like the new Slow Down! may be a tuna belly carpaccio dressed within both London and New York. For Josh, have been tried before in Melbourne - an anchovy vinaigrette and tomato granitaa New Zealander, this is a homecoming of there was Paul Mathis’s 100 Mile Cafe or grilled quail with a spring onion andsorts as he worked in Melbourne in the late that closed a couple of years ago - but soy glaze. The raciones (plates to share)1990s at Est Est Est and Luxe. the owner of St Kilda’s Dogs Bar, David saunter through big flavours and textures Carruthers, bought the space next door like 24-hour slow-roasted baby goat or Maze is a huge space but a smart design to the St Kilda icon and has turned it into char-grilled rabbit with vegetables.decked out in conservative browns, greys a restaurant where almost all the food andand blacks is worked within a contrasting wine comes from within a 200km radius of The delight in a place like this istextural context to give depth, warmth and Melbourne. It has struck a chord with many that despite the European heritage ofcomfort. It is Josh’s goal for Maze to become who are finding the technique and skill of the owner, it is completely and utterlypart of Melbourne culture as opposed head chef Ron O’Bryan, who is carrying Melbourne, combining an Old World ideato a big-name international restaurant, the challenge to create a daily menu, very with a New World approach. The serviceand this is being achieved gradually with moreish. Ron develops a menu around is savvy and intelligent and may havegood Melbourne staff: two locals have what’s in season and uses organic and you trying flavours and combinationsbeen appointed to significant roles - Enda biodynamic produce wherever possible, as you may not have considered - but that’sCunningham as general manager and well as only ethically raised meats. Some the fun of it. 2/12 Fitzroy St, St Kilda;Lincoln Riley as head sommelier. ingredients may be brought in from further phone (03) 9534 4355. afield - they don’t scrimp on quality - but Josh’s menu is built around local produce overall it’s a very local, regional experience. Left: Maze interior. Right: Entre Tapas e Vinos.where possible, creating dishes such as anentree of beautifully balanced marinated Ron’s entrees can be wonderfully light -beetroot with goat’s curd, cabernet sauvignon chilled green pea soup with creme fraichevinaigrette and toasted pinenuts, or an earthy and organic basil; or complex - a two-minuteJerusalem artichoke veloute with southern stew of baby calamari, scallops and chorizo,rock lobster and green beans. Mains are orzo and tomato. The menu is well-structuredappropriately more robust and generous in that there are ‘larger’ dishes like cassouletand may include slow-cooked pigeon breast of duck leg, white beans and confit porkwith quinoa and juniper berries or ox tongue belly, or sweet potato and ginger lasagna,and cheek with caper and raisins, carrots and then another section called ‘Dishes forand horseradish pomme puree. There is 2’, which include Sher wagyu rump cap witha steady element to Maze and Maze Grill onion soubise and salsa verde or roasted(think aged beef and great grills) that some Glenloth chicken with parsnip, peas andmay interpret as playing it safe but the wine brown bread sauce. The room is simple and56 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KINGAlio Restaurant in Surry Hills can be easy roasted kipfler potatoes, cotechino sausage, and wood mushrooms for two. Otherto miss. The thundering traffic of Cleveland salsa verde and mustard sauce. highlights of Les Plats Principaux includeSt is only steps away and directly across organic chicken Holstein and fish filletthe road is the very busy Surry Hills Panna cotta has become the gelato meuniere. Finish with a wallow in upmarketshopping centre. But once inside the door of our times and most resemble firm nostalgia with the dark chocolate mousse- sound-proofed, of course - you could be junket. At Alio, the vanilla bean panna and pear tart tatin. Well worth the tripin a chic part of Manhattan. Brother and cotta is a made-for-the-angels version - a wherever you live in Sydney. 1047 Pacificsister team, Ashley and Tracey Hughes, description that also fits the soft-centre Hwy, Pymble; phone (02) 9988 0120.celebrated the eatery’s 10th anniversary chocolate pudding with roasted coconutin June and long may they stay put. I feel ice cream. A well-chosen wine list covers Summer Hill house prices may haveashamed to admit that I had forgotten why three continents - Europe, South America soared past the $2 million dollar mark,they have flourished in such a competitive and Australasia. The gilding on the lily but prices at Fare Nosh have stayedenvironment for so long. is Tracey Hughes’ service, honed at the - well - fair. The upscale ‘local’ boasts Ritz-Carlton in Sydney and London’s River toney decor in the minimalist style This is no news to Jamie Oliver, Ashley’s Cafe and Min’s, the Knightsbridge boltholeformer colleague at London’s River Cafe, of boutique hoteliers, Tim and Kit Kemp. and the fresh bread baked daily is anwho rightly praises his mate’s risottos For local and cross-town connoisseurs, opening gambit for a best-in-class menuas “great”. Other prestigious stints on Alio also organises degustation nights that changes every three months. TypicalAshley’s resume include Zafferano’s, one and wine tastings. 5 Baptist St, Surry Hills; dishes from Dutch-born chef Peterof London’s best Italian restaurants, and phone (02) 8394 9368. Meijer include a truly terrific roast beefThe Pier at Rose Bay. As I plumped for the and Yorkshire pudding, dory in filo withdefault wine choice in inner Sydney - pinot Dietmar Sawyere, former mine host of the rocket pesto and hollandaise, and confitgrigio - the smartly edited menu still made sorely-missed Forty One restaurant, now of duck on mint risotto. Fare Nosh ischoosing each course a tough decision. divides his time between Berowra Waters BYO, too, which keeps mid-week meals Inn and Ad Lib, his new bistro in Pymble reasonable. 117 Smith St, Summer Hill; To start, I went for the un-Italian Tasmanian which opened its doors in April. For those phone (02) 9716 6300.salmon gravlax on a large blini-style pancake. who yearn for French classics and exquisiteThe cured salmon was soft as butter and the cooking, this is the mother lode. Berkelouw Books is Australia’s oldestlight-as-air pancake made the perfect foil. You and largest antiquarian bookseller. Atcan order pastas as entrees or mains from The menu opens with Les Hors this Leichhardt outpost there’s also a veryspinach gnocchi with fresh peas, asparagus, d’Oeuvres Classique - a list of tempters inviting wine bar. Enjoy live music frombroad beans and a goat’s curd dressing to ranging from duck liver parfait and onion Thursday to Saturday. A great venue whenfettucine with king prawns and nduja salami. marmelade to that old student standby, you don’t feel like a full meal in an antiqueOn Jamie Oliver’s recommendation, I ordered onion soup gratinee. Seasonal specialities atmosphere of leather chairs and rarefiedthe risotto of the day - a creamy mix of rice, on my visit ran the gamut from boudin noir tomes. There are 12 wines by the glassdolci latte and gorgonzola cheeses spiced with caramelised pears and celeriac to and more-ish ‘share plates’ filled with minito near-perfection. Those with heartier steamed Kangaroo Island yabbies with arancini balls, baked risotto with hazelnutsappetities tucked into pan-fried barramundi house-made mayonnaise. Anyone after and antipasti. Level 1, 70 Norton St,fillets with char-grilled salad of eggplant, the sort of steak dinner you’ll be talking Leichhardt; phone (02) 9560 3200.peppers and asparagus with white balsamic about for months should go for the grilleddressing, and twice-cooked pork belly with dry-aged beef rib eye, braised shallots Left: Alio’s caramelized lemon tart with berries. Centre: Alio restaurant interior. Right: Alio’s salad of pickled blue swimmer crab meat, chilli and cucumber with a blood orange dressing. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 57

The National Wine Centre of Australia is a place you can enjoy wine & see wine making from the ground up. Our interactive Wine Discovery Journey & exhibition showcases the complete wine experience. The concourse Café offers fine Australian wines to taste & purchase or enjoy a meal from our seasonal a la carte menu while over looking the stunning views of the Botanic Gardens. Come and enjoy fine wines from selected wine makers at our Fridays Uncorked offering a new vibrant Friday night venue to the Adelaide business community to wind down their week, try a selection of cocktail foods, relax to the sounds of fine musicians and immerse yourself in the atmosphere at this unique Adelaide icon. Every second Friday. National Wine Centre of Australia www.wineaustralia.com.auCorner of Botanic and Hackney Roads, Adelaide SA 5000 Phone: +61 8 8303 3355

adelaidegrapevine GRAEME ANDREWSThirteen years after The Lion opened its of beef cheeks, sweetbreads, pork ribs whose makeover has merrily skippeddoors to Adelaide’s notoriously fickle public, and other rarely seen restaurant treats. along an Alice in Wonderland bias.the hotel has created a presence bordering Desserts return to the ‘share and enjoy’on iconic. I’m sure owners Tim Gregg and format. With temptations such as chocolate Fantasy and fun have been ‘cut andAndrew Svencis, experienced much knee chilli spring rolls with vanilla creme and pasted’ with unexpected elements andtrembling and nail biting in early years baked chocolate, and blackberry pudding, quirks to tantalise and catch the eye. Afollowing their visionary (and expensive) botrytis jelly and Grand Marnier pannacotta, clutch of deco pendant lights drops fromtransformation of the 1870s Lion Brewery, it’s not hard to see why. 161 Melbourne St, a huge shadow box behind the front bar,but these days the concept can be summed North Adelaide; phone (08) 8367 0222; while walls, from front to rear, displayup by two words: roaringly successful. www.thelionhotel.com. hundreds and hundreds of period-framed family photos. Of whom, you ask? Well, The process has been quite simple. Entering the bar of The Apothecary their families and yours, and probably mineWin 12 peer industry awards during this 1878 is a somewhat surreal experience - a too! Using 1500 crystal pieces, installationtime, including AHA National Best Overall 19th century Europe meets 2010 AustraliaSA Hotel in 2009. Distil the creativity of a sort of thing. An authentic 132-year-old artist Nicholas Folland has created ‘Hole40-chef brigade, then liberally infuse this London pharmacy has been dismantled, Lotta Love’, guaranteed to take your breathknowledge with executive chef Murray shipped, rebuilt, then shoehorned into a away. Punch bowls, flutes, cake stands,Smith’s vast experience. Seek and nurture terrace apartment within the old, circa platters and glasses have been collatedtop-end niche growers and suppliers 1880, West’s Coffee Palace. Mahogany into a floating cloud. swirling serenely inand look for wine and beer producers, cabinets, filled with mid-20th century its own soaring atrium.hard-wired to progressive innovation. medicinal curiosities, are embellishedConstantly educate and update staff with 18-carat gold leaf, and drawer The rear garden is where (I think), the Madon every aspect of the hotel’s food and handles shimmer with hand-cut crystal. Hatter throws tea parties. White chiffon-cladbeverages. And practise ‘real hospitality’ private booths with vast open rear, timberin all the hotel’s operations. It’s tempting to linger to enjoy a glass or doors, inviting everyone to nowhere, would two from their formidable beverage list. be the perfect retreat for talking rabbits or The star attraction is undoubtedly the But the restaurant beckons, so it’s down even Alice herself.dining room, a plush contemporary space, a tight curved wooden staircase at thetotally at home within its heritage shell. The rear, to the cellar below. My immediate The dining room decor returns to moremenu embraces what has become known impression was that I’d been transported familiar 18th century sanity. Leadlight,as modern Australian cuisine, but is finely to a subterranean red brick-lined room in overstuffed chairs and other comforts, plustuned to sharing tastes. Small plates, Paris or Barcelona, although a wall-length a menu featuring dishes Adelaide dinerspastas and entrees dominate the savoury wrought iron lattice cage securing 1200 adore. Soft shell crab with aioli and freshstarter selections. Miso-cured kingfish with fine wines has a distinctive Moroccan lime wedges, pork loin with baby carrot,chilli-roasted pineapple, dashi jelly, wasabi feel. Apron clad staff, directed by the apple puree and a fennel and rocket saladand yuzu, and rabbit boudin with saffron unflappable and gracious Paola Coro, or traditional steak frites - 300g waygu rumptortellini, porcini puree, baby onions and glide between tables, informing, advising with hand-cut pomme frites topped withlicorice typify choices. Six stand-alone and attending with warm professionalism. maitre d’ hotel butter and jus, to name amain offerings come next, including an few. 233 Franklin St; phone (08) 8231 4380;intriguingly named ‘Butcher’s Choice’- a The menu is very Mediterranean-centric. www.benjaminonfranklin.com.au.revolving door of guest appearances Chevre with witlof, walnut and raisins, chargrilled cotechino with lentils and Left: Benjamin on Franklin courtyard. Right: The Lion. salsa verde, or pan-fried duck livers with rosemary and cider vinegar, plus a slew of others in the same delicious ilk. Desserts are to die for. Don’t miss the brown sugar pannacotta with plum and walnut praline. And, as expected with one of the best wine lists in town. An intimate treasure. 118 Hindley St; phone (08) 8212 9099; www.theapothecary1878.com.au. No more than half a kilometre away, Rachel Triggs and Paul Saturno have travelled a radically different path, breathing new life into an ageing 19th century watering hole. Their efforts have resulted in Benjamin on Franklin, a hotel July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 59

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELIt continues to rain Spain in the Sunshine corn with lime, and a medley of sauteed France and Italy. Think artichoke soup withState with the opening of several new tapas mushrooms is fragrant with sherry. borlotti beans and pancetta, caramelisedbars and, in an interesting twist, the city’s onion tart with blue cheese and rocket,first authentic Brazilian barbecue restaurant, The food is small and light, which means New England rabbit, fresh gnocchi andMundo Churrasco at 63 Macgregor Tce, there’s room for dessert, and you certainly pistachios, and fisherman’s rice ‘my way’,Bardon. (Phone (07) 3369 1660). should not miss the bizcocho borracho – using fabulous Queensland seafood and PX-soaked trifle topped with little squares a fino deglaze. 12 Edward St, Brisbane; Peasant, a moodily lit Tapas bar, opened of blood orange jelly. It’s a wonderful dish phone (07) 3221 7655.next door to sister restaurant, French served in a small, hand-painted bowl, asVietnamese fusion Libertine, at 61 Petrie are the more classic choices of crema Moving along the Med into Italy, twoTce in the Paddington Barracks complex. Catalana and churros. stalwart operators have been makingThe bar has a vivid mural as a backdrop, changes of their own. Mark and Narelleand low lights along communal benches The wine list is small but hits the right notes Tognini have run excellent delis inin the centre of the room create a warm with the Australian/Spanish combination. Brisbane for years. Recently, after anambience and a great spot for a quiet tete There’s also a stellar line-up of lesser- extensive food tour through Turin and itsa tete or group gathering. region, they have transformed their Spring known Spanish and South American Hill operation into a classic trattoria with a The menu focuses mainly on regional beers. 154 Melbourne St, South Brisbane; contemporary edge.Spanish cuisine, artfully served in rustic phone (07) 3844 4757.earthenware bowls and is perfect for Brodetto di pesce, papardelle with wildsharing. Pan-fried chicken livers with And then there’s Moda, the brand new boar ragu, house-made porcini ravioli andmorcilla and king brown mushrooms is a remake of the popular city fine diner, Gianni. slow-braised chicken Maryland with ratatouillerobust little number that, when paired with and soft polenta are just a few of the extensivea salad of shaved fennel and dressed with Founding partner and executive chef, range of dishes that grace the menu that issherry and oil or cauliflower dressed with Barcelonan-born Javier Codina, has been now offered at night as well as for lunch.pine nuts, saffron and raison, creates a one of the state’s most impressive chefspleasant and full-flavoured synergy. and over the past decade has built up solid The Tognini kitchen has always offered working relationships with the hinterland’s an extensive range of ready-prepared Plenty of effort has gone into the abundant growers and producers - which is dishes as well as chutneys, sauces andcreation of the wine list, which boasts very good news for Brisbane diners. Doinga strong line-up of Spanish wines and away with the more formal element of the pasta, and these will still be available - onlySpanish varietals from Australia and restaurant, Javier has produced a ‘market now you can sample it in the trattoria andother regions. There’s an explanation and menu’ which features for lunch daily and take some home for later. Cheese is a bigtasting notes to explain the various lesser- includes a two-course meal and a glass passion for Mark and his range is second toknown styles, taking the guesswork out of wine. Every Friday is paella day, which none. There is also a large hanging cabinetof the choice for those not up on their is a specialty of his and can also be made designed to hold wagyu bresaola, jamon,macabeos and garnachas. Peasant, with prior notice. Javier is also embracing prosciutto and salami, which you can takephone (07) 3367 8066; Libertine, phone adobo-style cooking - baking inside fresh home or enjoy as a mixed charcuterie plate.(07) 3367 3353. clay - which seals in roasting juices and Cnr Turbot and Boundary Sts, Spring Hill; delivers moist, tender and aromatic results, phone (07) 3831 5311. Cross the Grey St Bridge past the Gallery especially with a herbed rack of lamb.of Modern Art and make a right onto Left: Tognini’s interior. Right: Tognini’s daily antipasto.Melbourne St and you will find Granada, The main menu offers Catalan flavours asanother new hotspot for a prawn tortilla and well as southern Mediterranean dishes froma glass of albarino. South America features on this menuas well as classic raciones and tapas.Kingfish escabeche, piquillo peppersfilled with jamon and manchega andchicken and leek croquetas sit alongsidewarm, handmade corn tortillas toppedwith spiced prawns, salsa and a blackbean puree. Pollo a la Yucatan also usestortillas as a base for sauteed chickenthigh and a rice and bean mix, andbistec a la Mexicana is a juicy rib fillet,char-grilled with guacamole and blackbeans. Grilled fish sits over chilli-creamed60 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHN I try a passionfruit souffle which is soon to an infusion of coconut milk, lemongrass, be introduced to the menu. I suggest you lime leaf and basil and served with finely leave room for one of these tall, fluffy flavour sliced bok choy and broccoli and a pot of bombs. Azure is licensed, with plenty of fluffy boiled rice. The milky green colour wines by the glass, has great cocktails and of the sauce is soothingly attractive, the a cellar reserve wine list collected with love spices are subtle yet discernable, the fish and passion. Shop 40, 148 Scarborough was obviously swimming only a few hours Beach Rd; phone (08) 9443 5433. before and the vegetables are fresh and crunchy. It’s a beautifully balanced dish A pub is essential to the social well- almost worth traveling to Cambodia for, being of any suburban area, and the but there’s no need for that when you can Paddington Ale House (the Paddo) is find it at Shop 44, No. 148. The restaurant almost an icon here in the West. When is BYO; phone (08) 9242 2988. driving from the city, it is at the entranceMount Hawthorn, on Scarborough Beach to the strip and the grand, old-style hotel is Divido is a 60-seater and a comfortableRd, may not be as chic as the other home to over 100 of the finest international dining room where quality abounds. Theinner-suburban dining strips at Mt Lawley, beers and has some very serious wines boss, Jason Jujnovich, also rattles theSubiaco or Leederville, but it is smaller, on offer at its Paddington Fine Wines next pans and his fare is simply preparedwell-manicured and has plenty of parking, door. The pub’s a great place to enjoy live classical Italian. Not only is the foodwhich is scarce at the other three. Azure, music, all the big sporting events and quality, but the wine list is worth morea smart/casual 90-seat restaurant, is now hearty dining. It’s the soul of the area. than a cursory glance as there areone year old. It has a tropical resort feel, No. 141; phone (08) 9242 3077. always a few ‘hard to find’ listings.from the bright blue placemats to the Bookings are essential, and look forcolourful paintings and the scattering of Across the road from the Paddo, Tamarind special wine/food nights for excellentcane furniture outside. Owner Christian is a rare beast. Although it serves a mix of value. No. 170; phone (08) 0443 7373.Fogliani has spent several years South East Asian dishes, it specialises inmanaging top resorts throughout Asia and Cambodian food. As Cambodia sits slap- The Cabin, a new addition to the strip, ishis influence is not missed here. Fittings bang between Thailand and Vietnam, a small wine/cocktail bar sitting above a giftand utensils are first class, with quality you’d expect an influence of both cuisines store and has its entrance at the rear. It’sglassware, trendy plates and hand-made and there is. It’s not as raunchy as Thai like a country cabin, with robust furnishings,cutlery, yet Azure is relaxed and your kids tucker and it embraces the fresh seasonal and a couple of al fresco areas cater forwouldn’t be out of place. vegetables and herbs for which Vietnam any patron overflow, especially when the is famous. Noodles and rice are popular. weather is kind. It serves alcohol with or Breakfast offers a choice of ‘hot, cool without food and if you are tempted byand baked’, using fresh organic produce I order an Amok of fresh cobbler the menu, the fare is tapas-style with halfwhere possible; average price is around ($28), the chef’s special on the evening a dozen main dishes for those with more$13. Lunch rocks, especially on the front I’m there. Amok is a small Cambodian capacity. No. 174 (upstairs) Scarboroughpavement when the weather is fine, but village and is also the name given to Beach Rd; phone (08) 9444 6214.I arrive for dinner on a drizzly evening an authentic and ubiquitous dish foundand dine inside. I start with two king almost throughout the country. Fillets of Above: Azure restaurant and outdoor dining.prawns coated in a crispy angel hair filo, fish (chicken is optional) are poached inaccompanied by three thick, fleshy scallopsand micro-herbs dressed in coriander seed,rocket oil and a wasabi lime sauce. It’s asimple but well-executed dish with palate-awakening zing and zip at $21.50. Next,a duo of duck ($32.50) from the mains listconsists of a cylinder shape of shreddedduck confit and cherry which sits alongsidethick slices of pan-fried duck breast dressedwith apple and limoncello. The serving isgenerous, the confit is richly gelatinous andthe breast is a juicy pink and has piquancyfrom the dressing. The kitchen insists July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 61

winewords L O U I S A R O S ESKYE MURTAGHPewsey Vale was the first vineyard Who has been the If you could choose one other person inestablished in the scenic Eden Valley most influential the winemaking world (from the past or theabove the Barossa and today - almost person in your present), to sit down with, share a glass of170 years after the first vines were planted career to date and wine and compare notes, who would it be?by the site’s founder Joseph Gilbert - the what was their best Joseph Gilbert (founder of Pewsey Valewinery enjoys a well-deserved reputation piece of advice? Vineyard in 1847). I want to know why hefor producing some of Australia’s finest Brian Walsh (director planted riesling, and what motivated hiscool climate wines. Owned by the Hill of wine at Yalumba) commitment to this great site and brand heSmith family (also of Yalumba), Pewsey leads by example established. We’d drink Eden Valley Riesling,Vale’s wines are crafted by Yalumba’s chief rather than by just of course. I’d also like to chat to James Busby.winemaker, Louisa Rose. giving advice. The best example Brian What do you think is the most effective Melbourne-born Louisa first dipped her has demonstrated for way of teaching wine appreciation?toe in the winemaking world in the Yarra me is to make sure Explaining that wine is not really thatValley during her teens. On weekends you set aside time to complicated, and keep it simple. Relate theshe helped set up and eventually run a think, ponder and reflect. I also heard him flavours and aromas to those your audiencefamily vineyard at Yarra Glen. It was this say once that “Winemaking does not start understands, which can be ever-changing,grassroots introduction to the business in the vineyard - it starts in the brain.” depending on who you are with and wherewhich sparked her interest in pursuing a you are in the world. Show the wines in ancareer in winemaking, After completing a What’s the most challenging part of the environment that is real - preferably with food.bachelor of science degree at Melbourne winemaking process for you?University, she made the move across The most challenging - in a positive way - is How do you find out about new winesthe border to South Australia to study getting to know new varieties or clones and to try yourself?winemaking at Roseworthy Agricultural what they can offer in terms of their unique By word of mouth mainly - friends, otherCollege - graduating as dux in 1992. styles, flavours and experiences. winemakers, sommeliers and ‘wine experts’. I don’t read nearly as many Louisa started making the wines at What’s the best bottle of wine you’ve reviews as I should, but luckily I know andPewsey Vale in 1996 and works closely ever consumed? work with people who do and they passwith vineyard manager Darrell Kruger, A 1972 Leo Buring DWB 15 Eden Valley on things of interest so I can cherry pick.adhering to her long-held philosophy Rhine Riesling. I purchased it for aroundthat “wine is made in the vineyard” - $13 in 1995 at the Barossa Wine Auction What’s your favourite wine accessory?particularly riesling, for which Pewsey (no bargains like that any more). I opened I’m not sure it’s an accessory, but I have aVale is renowned. Her skill, creativity and it at a family dinner at Maggie Beer’s beautiful Huon pine wine cabinet that wasleadership have landed her a swag of Pheasant Farm Restaurant in the same made locally in the Barossa. If that doesn’twell-deserved industry accolades, but you year. What makes a bottle of wine ‘great’get the feeling that for Louisa, the most is the combination of the wine itself, therewarding part of the winemaking process occasion and the people you are sharingstill comes from getting good feedback a glass with.from customers themselves - especiallywhen it’s not expected! Do you collect wine personally? Yes, but not rigorously enough. MyRelate the tale of your very first wine collection is big and unkempt, and stored(tasting) experience. in a cellar about 40km away as I have noIt was in the early ’80s helping set up cellaring space or conditions at home.and pour a tasting for a conference of There are some great wines in there, butaccountants from Australia and around they are surrounded by many a bottle thatthe world. The wine I remember was the should have been drunk years ago – andCraiglee Vineyard Shiraz for its spice and probably should never have been put thereflavour. I was still at school and the venue in the first place.was a bit eerie and cold, but the tastingwas fantastic.62 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

count, the ‘Turn’ decanter - not only is it a Hahndorf Hill Winerygreat shape, but it’s lots of fun to roll aroundthe table at a dinner party. Adelaide HillsWhat’s the one rule you always follow Blaufränkischwhen it comes to drinking wine?Life’s too short to drink bad wine. … quite a mouthfulDo you have a soft spot for any one Our delicious,particular wine variety? mouth-fillingRiesling. It is such a pure expression of and dry roséthe grape flavours, with apparently little is uniquelywinemaking influence. As much as any made fromvariety that I can think of, and more than Blaufränkisch andmost, it is a reflection of its place (terroir) Trollinger grapes.and so by drinking riesling from differentsites, regions and countries you can get Our Adelaidewonderful sense of place - without having Hills vineyardto leave your dinner table. specialises in Austrian andHow do you continue to grow and German varietals.improve as a winemaker?It’s important not to think you have ever To discover moreachieved all you can, particularly when about our rangemaking a wine. If you know you can always of alternativemake a better wine then you keep striving wines, visitto learn, and by doing so will grow and our website.improve. I think if I ever lost the drive to learnthen it would be time to do something else. www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.auWhat do you enjoy most about makingwines in the Eden Valley for Pewsey Vale?Being a caretaker of the making of sucha wonderful wine, from one of Australia’sgreat riesling vineyards with the tradition andlongevity that it has. I can remember my familydrinking Pewsey Vale Riesling in the ’70s, andin another 30 years hopefully someone canremember the wines from the 2000s with thesame fondness as they drink the 2040 vintage.Like some wine, can a winemaker getbetter with age?Absolutely. The more you know, the better youare at responding and making winemakingdecisions and therefore making better wines.The older you get the more experience youget, hence the more you know and the betterwinemaker you become. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 63

ANOTHER JEWEL BLENDS INTO A FINE DINING CROWNC E P A G E R E S TA U R A N T, part of best sources worldwide set Cepage apart. and a range of half bottles from some When showcasing coveted Iberian black of the world’s most celebrated cellars.the highly renowned Les Amis fine dining pork, Maine lobster, wild Iranian Sevruga There is even a selection of fruit wines.group, is aptly located on Hong Kong’s caviar, Perigord black truffles and Alba Raymond Lim explains, “While Hong Kongstylish Starstreet, and it certainly makes its white truffles, he takes the approach that is still pretty much a claret-drinking crowd,mark. The restaurant’s central philosophy less is more. “I keep the dishes relatively there is a group of discerning clients whoseemed a natural progression when it simple to let these ingredients speak for are willing to explore esoteric wines madecame time to choose a name. Cepage themselves,” says Thomas. A set dinner by skilled winegrowers in lesser-knownis French wine terminology meaning a menu of either four or seven courses ranges“blend of” or “variety of” grapes; the focus from $HK888 to $HK1380 ($A140 to $A215). regions, from sauvignon blancs fromis on the perfect blend of haute French- Austria and reds from Lebanon. AlthoughMediterranean cuisine, one of the region’s For the indecisive gourmet or wine-focused we have the important wines from thefinest wine lists and attention to detail in the enthusiast, there is also the exclusive option prominent French regions, we see theform of ambience and service. of a unique carte blanche menu which importance of offering a selection of these invites guests to first select their wine from interesting finds as well.” Spread over three levels, Cepage wouldn’t the cellar, guided by resident sommelierbe out of place in any of the world’s major John Chan, which is then specifically So, this begs the question, what does thedining locales. Its facade boasts floor-to- tailored to food prepared by Thomas. Cepage team look for when assemblingceiling windows providing a glimpse of the this comprehensive list? “There are severalOld World opulence seamlessly blended with Attention to detail is evident everywhere considerations,” says Raymond. “Price -edgy modern design within. A prestigious from the traditional ceiling panels and offering well-made wines that are affordableMichelin star in its first year of operation and 100-year-old bohemian crystal chandeliers and never overpricing the classifiedthe recent ranking in the S.Pellegrino’s 100 flown in from Europe, all the way down growths. Importantly, the sommeliers mustWorld’s Best Restaurants Awards 2010 show to eye level with the First Series glasses believe in the quality of all the wines listed.the “blend” must be working. from Zweisel 1872, J.L. Coquet crockery Trophy wines may not excite us as some and Laguiole knives. The amuse-bouche of them are just too extracted. They never At the helm of Cepage is the same award- is served in real silver dishes and your work well with the food we are offering andwinning team that has assured the success handbag even has its own ottoman-style we realised that cool climate wines oftenof its Singapore counterpart: charismatic seat so you don’t have to put it on the floor. work pretty well though.”spokesman Raymond Lim, director of These elements all enhance the diningoperations Randy See (voted Sommelier of experience. Far from being ostentatious, Asked about his aim for the future ofthe Year at the annual World Gourmet Summit Cepage has a relaxed, refined elegance. Cepage, Raymond’s answer was clear: “Tofor three consecutive years) and resident be the most wine-centric restaurant in Asia.”chef Thomas Mayr, who has worked his way The highlight of the bar area on thethrough the ranks of numerous Michelin- first level is the spacious, temperature- Aim firmly accomplished!starred restaurants in Italy and Germany. controlled cellar which boasts an expansive collection of more than 2400 labels in *Lara Simic was a guest of the Hong Kong Tourism Thomas prefers light and contemporary an extravagant collection worth over Board during the inaugural 2009 Hong Kong Winedishes, focusing on quality ingredients $HK20 million, including gems such as & Dine Festival.which complement the local climate and Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Romaneepalate. Fresh, quality ingredients from the Conti 1969; Paul Jaboulet, Hermitage La Chapelle 1961 and Coche Dury, Corton Charlemagne 1990. The list features wines from around the world, including from numerous regions in France and Europe (Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Hungary and Slovakia) through to Australia, with top wines from South America and New Zealand also gracing the list. This is a true wine aficionado’s paradise that includes 18 wines by the glass64 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

the wine & spiritinsiderJuly/August 2010 Issue 112 FREE COPY Angovescover image?in this issuewhiskies of t he worldnew releasesandTop 40Best Wine Buysunder $20 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

38 TASTED35 AWARDEDWHISKIES OF THE WORLDThis was a wonderful tasting of flavoursome whisky Chivas Regal Gold AUSTRALIANfrom the blends right up to the icons, with an amazing Signature 18 Year Old SINGLE MALTstrike rate of worthy products. This is a tasting for Blended Scotch Whisky WHISKYthe true aficionado, where small differences appeal to 40% HHHH1/2different people. Beautifully aged, elegant and 4 TASTED well-balanced blended whisky 1 AWARDEDIRISH WHISKEY BLENDED with what one judge described There was one good example SCOTCH WHISKY as \"gentle richness\". Loads of of a well-balanced, flavoursome4 TASTED fruity/oak flavours with some whisky at cask strength alcohol4 AWARDED 7 TASTED spicy notes that linger on and level. The judges found the 7 AWARDED on. $124.99 others had slight sulphide -\"One for the Irish - these are Ballantine's \"struck match\"- ferment issues.well-polished and stylistic,\" said \"This is the best we have seen 12 Year Old Blendedone judge. They are younger of the blends,\" commented one Scotch Whisky 40% HHHH Sullivans Cove Portbut definitely an alternative to judge. \"It seems that makers Complex, soft, oaky bouquet Maturation Cask Strengththe Scotch styles. are putting in some malt to lift with great depth and Rare Australian Single Cask the grade.\" These make very complexity of apricot-like Malt Whisky 60% HHH1/2The Wild Geese good mixers but can also stand flavours well integrated with Full-bodied aromas showingSingle Malt Irish Whiskey alone for individual sipping! the lovely sweet oak. $56.99 good age. Smooth, sweet43% HHHH1/2 Ballantine's Finest palate with a little dried fruitIntense dark golden colour Blended Scotch Whisky character integrated with goodand showing rich, developed 40% HHH1/2 wood. $150aromas with a lovely peaty Lighter style - good for mixing.influence. Palate offers a huge, Sweet on the nose, with arich mouthful of peaty flavours dusting of peat and stronglayered with sweet oak. Great peated Islay characters on thelength. $100 palate. $38.99 Chivas Regal 12 Year OldThe Wild Geese Rare Irish Blended Scotch WhiskyWhiskey 43% HHHH 40% HHH1/2Lovely blend of aromas Good depth and intensity ofshowing a delicate nuance rich, spicy aromas, with someof malt. Soft, well-balanced. good wood characters on theMedium-weight palate offering lighter style of palate. $57.99good length of attractive malty The Black Douglasflavours. $82 Blended Scotch Whisky 40% HHHThe Wild Geese Limited Green oak nose with a big,Edition Fourth Centennial grainy lift and quite a spicyIrish Whiskey 43% HHHH palate. \"Tastes like a blendLighter, well-balanced style with should!\" said one judge. $29.95a delicate, spicy bouquet. Lovely Cutty Sark Blendedand soft in the mouth, with Scotch Whisky 40% HHHspicy, ginger-like flavours. $92 Light oaky aromas with a hint of malt, and simple, sweet palate brimming over with flavour. $34.95The Wild Geese Pig's Nose Blended ScotchClassic Blend Irish Whisky 40% HHHH1/2Whiskey 40% HHH \"A delight to drink!\" enthusedHeady, creamy nose and one judge. Excellent combinationsmooth, crisp palate of sweet of aromas and flavours withmalt and oak with a hint of good aged characters, greatorange blossom. $69 complexity and structure and silky-smooth mouthfeel. $5666 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

SINGLE MALT feature tastingSCOTCH WHISKYUNDER $100 Glenfarclas 12 Year Old Highland Single Malt13 TASTED Scotch Whisky 43% HHHH13 AWARDED Soft and gentle on the nose and offering a lively balanceStrong class, with controversy of peat and malt flavours onover the Islay 'peaty' the light, simple and 'squeakycharacters. Although these are clean' palate. $95single-malt selected barrels,the judges found them on theyoung side. \"To keep the priceunder $100 in Australia andNZ, producers can't afford todeliver aged barrels\". Ardbeg The Ultimate Glenmorangie The Lasanta The Glenrothes 10 Year Old Islay Sherry Cask Highland Select Reserve Speyside Single Malt Scotch Single Malt Scotch Whisky Single Malt Scotch Whisky 46% HHHH1/2 46% HHHH1/2 Whisky 43% HHHH Very young - \"Maybe too young Big, complex style with Rich, full-flavoured and very to show,\" suggested one judge. good age, great intensity, youthful product with a lovely Incredibly smoky/peaty Islay excellent length, long, lingering malty/oaky bouquet and malt. Slight sweaty medicinal flavours, lovely mouthfeel and pleasant, lingering, marmalade/ note on the nose and very rich everything in perfect seamless dried fruit-like flavours. $76 flavours that last forever! $85 balance. $85 Glenfarclas 10 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky 40% HHHH Very well balanced and complex product with excellent rich peaty/malty characters on both nose and palate, with some great wood integration. $85Sheep Dip 8-12 Year Old Glenmorangie The Quinta4 Regions Blend Ruban Port Cask HighlandSingle Malt Scotch Single Malt ScotchWhisky 40% HHHHH Whisky 46% HHHHRich, full-bodied style showing Pleasant, crisp style with goodplenty of age complexity. level of malty characters,Hints of tea leaf and malt on intense, lingering flavours,the nose. Great palate - silky- zesty alcohol and a dryingsmooth and gentle in the finish. $90mouth. \"Very easy to drink,\"agreed the panel. $72Graham Wright Stan Obst JUDGESDirector Oddbins Wine Former corporateAuctions. Has completed projects manager at Russell Johnsonthe advanced wine Tarac Australia Pty Ltd. Wine division technicalassessment course at the Has been a lecturer manager of Beringer BlassWine Research Institute. on distillation at the Wine Estates. PreviouslyFormerly fine wine retailer University of Adelaide oenological manager for Vinpacwith Baily and Baily. and has judged the International. Eight years’Australian Malt Whisky brandy class at the experience as productionConvention show judge. Adelaide Wine Show. manager with Seagram Spirits. Adelaide Wine Show judge in the brandy class. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 67

WHISKIES OF THE WORLDGlenmorangie The Glenlivet 12 Year Glenmorangie The Original Ardbeg UigeadailAstar Highland Single Old Single Malt Scotch Highland Single Malt The Ultimate Islay SingleMalt Scotch Whisky Whisky 40% HHH1/2 Scotch Whisky 40% HHH Malt Scotch Whisky57.1% HHHH Hint of floral perfume on Light and fruity on the nose and 54.2% HHHHHSmells like vanilla, spice and the nose, with dusty/peaty light and spicy in the mouth, \"Now we're talking!\" said onecola. Good malt definition and characters in the mouth. Lovely with quite a tannic finish. $75 judge. Peat and sherry aromastight oak on the crisp, young light, clean product. $57.99 lift off the nose. Massive palatepalate. A little 'bitey' on the The Glenlivet French SINGLE MALT with a beautiful big blast ofback palate. Good overall Oak Reserve 15 Year SCOTCH WHISKY seemingly endless peaty/malty/balance. $99 Old Single Malt Scotch $100 + Islay flavours. $125 Whisky 40% HHH1/2 Light, clean, gamey style that has 10 TASTED good depth and length with nice 10 AWARDED peat/malt Islay characters. Warm and silky in the mouth. $90.99 Superb group that shows the Glenmorangie value of age. Some of these The Nectar D'Or are pricey but given the quality Sauternes Cask Highland were well worth it. There Single Malt Scotch are stylistic differences here Whisky 46% HHH1/2 and this offers interesting Well-balanced mid-weight alternatives for drinkers to whisky with sweet malt and decide which style they like. grainy oak. \"Very gentle in the mouth,\" noted one judge. $95 Glenfarclas 8 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky 40% HHH Dry, lifted and well-balanced style with good wood and lovely crisp flavours. $75 Looking Glenfarclas Glenfarclas for fine, rare, 15 Year Old Highland 30 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Single Malt Scotch drinkable Whisky 46% HHHHH Whisky 43% HHHHH and downright Huge, resinous, sherry-like Amazing nose - very seductive; odd single malt aromas and a fabulously smells of old wooden furniture. unctuous palate, with the silky Luscious, smooth and complex whiskies? oak perfectly integrated with in the mouth and tightly lovely, lively fruit flavours. Rich framed by classy oak. Very Aberlour, Adelphi, The yet very elegant. $120 traditional style. Good peat/ Alchemist, Ardbeg, malt development. $430 Y COY Benromach, Berry Bros,SO R Bunnahabhain, Cadenhead,THE O Caol Ila, Glenfarclas, Glengoyne, Hazelburn,NAL Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Longrow, The Macallan, Signatory, Springbank, Talisker, Tullibardine & lots, lots more... DD WHISK IGHT, ODD & ORIGI theoddwhiskycoy.com.au [email protected] 08 8365 472268 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tastingGlenfarclas 105 Cask Ardbeg Blasda IslayStrength Highland Single Malt ScotchSingle Malt Scotch Whisky 40% HHHHWhisky 60% HHHH1/2 Real classic. Gently smoky onFresh and clean, with quite a the nose, with excellent long,resinous/sherry bouquet and elegant palate full of uniquevery flavoursome sweet, dried Islay peat flavours that lingerfruit-like flavours with plenty of on long after the whisky haszesty citrus characters. Quite gone down! $105hot in the mouth. $130 The Glenlivet 18 YearGlenfarclas Old Single Malt Scotch21 Year Old Highland Whisky 43% HHH1/2Single Malt Scotch Light and spicy on the nose,Whisky 43% HHHH1/2 followed by a good medium-Silky-smooth, well-aged whisky weight, slightly hot, palatewith soft, dusty ,'furniture that's full of flavour. $119.99oak' -like aromas and excellentlength of gently sweet peaty/malty flavours that sit softly inthe mouth. $160Glenfarclas Glenmorangie Glenmorangie Extremely25 Year Old Highland Signet Highland Rare 18 Year Old HighlandSingle Malt Scotch Single Malt Scotch Single Malt ScotchWhisky 43% HHHH1/2 Whisky 46% HHHH1/2 Whisky 43% HHHHWell-balanced, soft, smooth Very classy, old-fashioned Spicy aromas with some driedwhisky. Slightly subdued style with some fabulous oak apricot elements. Soft andaromas and a palate that's and excellent aged characters. gentle in the mouth, withvelvety-smooth and bursting Lifted, spicy aromas and a more of those spicy characters.with sweet, rich, peat/malt velvety-smooth mouthfeel with Long and well balanced. $149flavours. $200 sweet integration of malt/oak flavours. $249a wine cabinet to suityour lifestyleCT Series Cabinets 32bforttootml8e6s0Unbeatable value forglass-door wine cabinetsPeltier CabinetsLong-life, no vibration,Peltier coolingWineVac CabinetsUnderbench unitswith integrated winepreservation systemKITCHENER Phone 03 9459 2999. Details of our range and pricing are available online www.kitchenerwinecabinets.comWINE CABINETSMORE THAN PREMIUM WINE STORAGE The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 69

NEW RELEASES229 TASTED107 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESA smaller than usual new releases tasting, with winemakers (at the De Bortoli Sacred Lost Valley Estatetime of this judging) in the middle of vintage and with their hands full. Hill Traminer Riesling Mountain CountryThe good news is that among the chaff are some wine jewels well 2009 HHH1/2 Central Victoriaworth trying, along with some good value quaffers. A nice mixture of Lifted, rose petal-like Cortese 2008 HHHcool climate and warm climate wines should please everyone. fruit bouquet. Stylish Quite savoury on the palate with fresh, nose and creamy in the fragrant flavours and mouth, with delicate dry/ excellent sugar/acid sour flavours. $26 balance. $7.50 SAUVIGNONSPARKLING Henry's Drive Kiss Chasey Western Tallavera Grove BLANC The Postmistress Australia Sparkling Vineyard Hunter & BLENDS10 TASTED Padthaway Blanc de Pink NV HHH Valley Verdelho6 AWARDED Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 Strawberry bouquet with 2010 HHH 17 TASTED Fresh and lively on light muscat fruit lift and Aromas of citrus 10 AWARDEDSolid group of the nose - smells of a palate that's simple, and quince and very Good bunch ofcommercial sparklers fresh bread - and has clean and fruity. $19 light, slightly tropical commercial quaffers,with clean and a nice flavour profile DiGiorgio Family flavours. $20 with the one 'fume' styleuncomplicated flavours. with a good tight acid Wines Lucindale (lightly oaked) standing backbone. $18 Limestone Coast Windowrie The Mill out above the pack! Sparkling Merlot Central Ranges 2008 HHH Verdelho 2009 HHH Warner Glen Smells like ripe plums and Big, rich and tropical - Estate Margaret has good depth of varietal quite advanced - with an River Sauvignon flavours, slightly sweet, oily texture and nicely Blanc Semillon and a dry finish. $19.99 balanced flavours. $16.99 2009 HHH1/2 More of a fume style OTHER WHITE Thorn-Clarke with distinctive oaky VARIETALS Sandpiper Eden characters. Very & BLENDS Valley Pinot Gris flavoursome, with crisp 2009 HHH acidity and plenty of 16 TASTED Fresh varietal lift to the length. $25 nose and clean and 9 AWARDED 'crunchy' in the mouth, with a hint of ginger. $17 Bethany Eden Valley Riesling 2009 HHH Lovely spicy floral Wide range of white intensity to the nose, varietals with some with lively, crisp and very interesting styles. delicate flavours. Great to see this line- A keeper. 5+ $18 up of Old World/NewSirromet Seven Aldi Stores Grand World grown styles. Beach Road WinesScenes Granite Belt Rayon SEA Sparkling Riesling was the pick of McLaren Vale FianoChardonnay Pinot Cuvee NV HHH the bunch as far as the 2009 HHHNoir 2007 HHHH Subtle floral aromatics judges were concerned. Pleasant dry whitePretty salmon pink and pleasant, fresh, that's balanced andwith complex aromas fruity palate - very Howard Park Great flavoursome, with hints ofshowing yeasty notes youthful. $3.99 Southern Riesling spices and bananas. $22and honeyed bottle age. Quarisa Johnny Q 2009 HHHHVery creamy, stylish Sparkling Brut Suggestion of flowers Seabrookpalate with good level of NV HHH and spice on the nose The Judge Clare'alert' acid. $27 Nice broad, yeasty nose and a hint of limes, Valley Eden Valley and rich, melon-like followed by a clean, tight Riesling 2009 HHH flavours on a very well and citrusy palate. Needs Aromatic varietal nose structured palate. $11.99 more time to really shine. showing slightly aged notes. Big mouthful of 3-5 $25 flavours with a drying end. $2270 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

w iwninee &&spsiript iinrsiidter itnasstini dg neerwtraelsetaisnesg Saracen Estates Verdun Park Wines VIOGNIER Margaret River Lyla Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 7 TASTED Semillon 2009 HHH 2009 HHH 3 AWARDED Smells like fresh lychees Crisp, lively quaffer - and has flavours of fruit would be great with Handful of wines worth salad with balancing food. Loads of flavours looking at but the others citrusy acidity. $22 and plenty of acidity. $18 were either too simple or too high in alcohol. \"We have a long way to go with this variety,\" suggested one judge. Ciavarella Oxley Estate King Valley Viognier 2009 HHH Attractive aromas of melons and cumquats and long, flavoursome, alcoholic palate. $18Aldi Stores Ashburn Willunga 100 Two Rivers Stone'sAdelaide Hills McLaren Vale Throw SemillonSauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills 2009 HHHH2009 HHH Viognier 2009 HHH A mere baby, withRipe wine that's Big, broad warm excellent cellaringa complexity of style with nice varietal potential. Great varietalgooseberries and fruit characters. nose with an austere,melon skins with a soft Will be excellent with citrusy palate andpungency. $12.99 food. $22.95 astringent finish. Give itDiGiorgio Family another five years! $14Wines Frank Aldi Stores Kaiora Thompson Estate Tallis Dookie Hills Tallavera GroveLimestone Coast Bay Reserve Locum Margaret Central Victoria Vineyard HunterSauvignon Blanc Marlborough River Sauvignon Viognier 2008 HHH Valley SemillonChardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Blanc Semillon Toasty nose with 2010 HHH1/2Semillon 2009 HHH 2009 HHH 2009 HHH savoury elements. Very Pretty, candied fruitSweet melony aromas Ethereal fruity nose Crisp and lively, easy- oaky palate with soft, nose and fresh andand powerful tropical with a touch of spice, to-drink blend with velvety flavours. $18 lively, well-balanced,fruit salad palate. followed by a zippy, good flavour profile and citrusy palate. VeryResidual sugar balanced fresh palate. $16.99 structure. $20 SEMILLON attractive style. $20by acid. $12.99 Windowrie The Mill Fermoy Estate & BLENDS Audrey Wilkinson Central Ranges Margaret River Hunter Valley Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 9 TASTED Marlborough Semillon 2009 HHH 2009 HHH 5 AWARDED Semillon Sauvignon Pleasant, perfumed Bright, zippy sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 tropical fruit bouquet blanc with light, spicy fruit Solid class with some Delicate, spicy and nicely balanced soft, salad characters. $22 good recommendations bouquet with the fruity palate. $16.99 Saracen Estates and some worth sauvignon blanc more Margaret River cellaring. The straight obvious. Nice depth and Sauvignon Blanc semillons generally offer balance of herbaceous 2009 HHH a better bet. flavours. $19.99 Very stylish wine with big pungent/herbaceous aromas and flavours and lingering finish. $24 JUDGESPeter Simic Stephen John James GodfreyEditor/publisher Winestate Owner/winemaker of Southcorp groupMagazine. More than 30 years’ Stephen John Wines. winemaker andexperience in the wine industry. More than 30 years’ senior show judgeFormerly founding publisher of winemaking experience. at capital city winea US wine magazine, manager Has judged at Adelaide, shows. Member ofof the SA Wine Information National, and Barossa the Australian WineBureau, and wine educator with Wine Shows. Regular Export judging panelRegency College of TAFE in Winestate panellist and regulating the quality ofSA. Peter is also a regular wine chairman of judges at wines sent overseas.commentator on national radio the Winestate Wine ofand television programs. the Year Awards. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 71

NEW RELEASESKettle Lane Hunter Swings & Briar RidgeValley Semillon Roundabouts Briar Hill Single2009 HHH Margaret River Vineyard HunterNice young, fresh Chardonnay Valley Chardonnayvarietal that has 2009 HHH 2009 HHHelegance and is drinking Great wine to serve Reserved nose andwell now, or keep it for with lunch - simple ripe lovely crisp, fresh,later. 3-5 $16.99 fruit nose and well- melony palate with a structured, flavoursome long, drying finish. $30Link Western palate. $29Australia Semillon PINOT NOIRSauvignon Blanc2008 HHH 6 TASTEDSimple, high-acid wine 1 AWARDEDwith canned pea/greenfruit characters on nose Just the one made it hereand palate. $14.95 and it was a very good example of the variety.CHARDONNAY The rest disappointed with their lack of any real32 TASTED varietal character.14 AWARDEDThe judges found some Sandalford Streicker Ironstonelovely wines here Prendiville Reserve Block Old Vineshowing the elegance, Margaret River Chardonnaytexture and structure Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2they were looking for. 2009 HHHHH Delicate green wine withChardonnay producers The nose is a complexity peaches and cream onare lifting their game of peaches and the nose and good depthat the top end but cashew nuts with of soft citrus flavours.unfortunately there was a hint of mangoes. Potential 3-5. $35some poor winemaking Lovely palate - soft andat the bottom end. creamy mouthfeel with Oakvale Peach Tree Aldi Stores seamlessly balanced, Chardonnay Mount GracefieldTwo Rivers citrusy flavours. $59.95 2009 HHH1/2 Adelaide HillsReserve Chardonnay Good commercial style Unoaked Chardonnay2009 HHHHH Thorn-Clarke with soft, toasty aromas 2009 HHHDelicate green hues with Sandpiper Eden and long, nicely balanced, High-acid wine witha complexity of cashews Valley Chardonnay toasty oak/honeydew a melange of oak andand butterscotch on the 2009 HHHH melon palate. $27 ripe melons on nosenose, and a tight, oaky Stylish and elegant wine and palate. Great foodpalate with lots of barrel with fresh honeydew Krinklewood wine. $7.99ferment/malo characters. melon fruit balanced Biodynamic VineyardGreat for drinking now or with nicely handled oak. Broke Fordwich The Accomplice Crowded Housefor cellaring. $20 Light, delicate aromas Chardonnay Chardonnay Marlborough Central and tight, flavoursome 2009 HHH 2009 HHH Otago Pinot Noir palate. $17 Nicely balanced cool Lovely lively wine with 2009 HHHH climate lemon and nice toasty/cashew Complex varietal aromas Vasse Felix Margaret melon chardonnay characters mingling with with an interesting feral River Chardonnay style with some well- some very ripe fruit. $6 element. Nice palate 2009 HHHH handled oak. $24 structure with excellent Crisp and lively, fruit- spicy flavours - soft and driven style with a fresh, Sandalford Estate Trentham Estate sweet, with a good level lifted melon bouquet Reserve Margaret Chardonnay of acidity. $22 and an elegant and well- River Chardonnay 2009 HHH balanced palate with a 2009 HHH Crisp aperitif style - quite fresh, citrusy finish. $27 Faultless, drink-now wine Chablis-like, offering with light, simple varietal excellent cellaring Vasse Felix fruit with yeasty/biscuity potential. 3-5 $16 Heytesbury Margaret elements. $26.95 River Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Big, oaky number with a lovely flavour profile of nutty oak and light melon fruit. Plenty of acidity, ensuring good cellaring potential. 3-5 $5072 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

OTHER RED wine & spirit insider tastingBLENDS Hahndorf Hill Winery10 TASTED4 AWARDED Adelaide HillsSome excellent traditional Grüner Veltlinerand new experimentalblends on show here. finds a new home III Associates Renaissance McLaren Vale Merlot Cabernet Petit Verdot 2007 HHH Big, broad, meaty style that’s nicely balanced, albeit quite oaky and alcoholic. $25Kalleske OTHER RED Introducing Gru 2010 – ourClarry's Barossa VARIETALS debut vintage of GrünerValley Grenache Veltliner, the world’s mostShiraz Mataro 13 TASTED food-friendly white wine.2009 HHHH1/2 7 AWARDEDRipe, rich, savoury style This Austrian classic is nowwith developing oak/prune A lot of interest here, with grown at our vineyard in thearomas and soft, rounded, winemakers beginning to cool Adelaide Hills.flavoursome palate with understand how to handlelong, velvety tannins. \"One these different varietals To discover more about ourof the best I have seen,\" and the vines now range of alternative wines, visitenthused one judge. $18 showing some age. our website.Heartland LanghorneCreek Limestone Back PocketCoast Dolcetto Castanets SingleLagrein 2008 HHHH Vineyard GraniteIntense stone-fruit Belt Tempranilloaromas and strong, spicy 2009 HHHHflavours with excellent Lovely aromas of stewedfresh acid to balance and plums with an obviouspowerful backbone of spicy/floral lift. Tastes oftannins. $17 dark berries with hints ofHugh Hamilton The musk sticks. Very stylishMongrel McLaren and elegant. A keeper.Vale SangioveseBlend 2009 HHH 3-5 $23Cherries and nectarineson the nose, with ahint of cedary-like oak.Tannic, savoury palate. 3-5 $22.50 www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 73

NEW RELEASESAudrey Wilkinson CABERNET Harcourt Valley Allandale HilltopsBarossa Valley SAUVIGNON Vineyards Bendigo Cabernet SauvignonTempranillo 2009 - 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH 'Moody' fruit/oak aromasBig, savoury style with 18 TASTED Dense, powerful oak with with intense depth ofoak quite dominant. 11 AWARDED lovely ripe blackberry fruit varietal fruit and cedarLovely now or in five beneath and a nice hint oak on the palate. $25years. Lovely depth of Good class with good of mint. Has depth andfruit and some quite cool climate fruit coming length and balance. Good Howard Parkdrying tannins. $19.99 through. Those not cool climate example. Scotsdale Great recommended had some Southern CabernetDe Bortoli Deen Vat winemaking issues. 5+ $25 Sauvignon 2008 HHHSeries 4 Petit Verdot Chalkers Simple, fresh cabernet2008 HHH1/2 The Malleea by Crossing Hilltops fruit nose andPurple/red wine Majella Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon uncomplicated butwith dense savoury/ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHH generous soft, oakyleathery aromas and Shiraz 2008 HHHH Very fresh and clean palate. $40rich, generous palate Excellent purple/red blackberry/cassis nosewith solid flavours and colour and powerful and good depth of spicy CABERNETcleansing finish. $12.90 oaky nose with slightly fruit flavours developing SAUVIGNON porty fruit. Soft in the nicely, with excellent 2007 & OLDERBlackbilly McLaren tannin structure. $30Vale Sangiovese Bowen Estate 11 TASTED2009 HHH Coonawarra 5 AWARDEDBig, soft, rich, plum-like Cabernet Sauvignonaromas and flavours 2008 HHH1/2 Good performance fromwith savoury notes and Nicely integrated dense the older wines which stillnice ripe tannins. $22 red/purple wine with showed freshness and lovely cassis overtones balanced flavour profiles.Boston Bay Merlot with a warming alcoholic2008 HHH mouth, with rich fruit, finish. \"It's faultless.\" $29Nicely balanced sweet ripe tannins and lots of Elderton Eden Valleycassis fruit style with a acid. 3-5 $66 Cabernet Sauvignonpleasant thread of spicy 2009 HHHelements. $29 Preston Peak Single Austere slightly green Vineyard Granite Belt nose with someWillunga 100 Cabernet Sauvignon pleasant red berry fruitsMcLaren Vale Carmenere on the palate. GoodGrenache 2007 HHH 2008 HHH Majella Coonawarra quaffer. $19Simple herbal nose Cabernet Sauvignon Kettle Lanewith a lively, minty Ripe blackberry fruit 2008 HHHHH Margaret Riveredge and confectionery mingles with fresh, Cabernet Sauvignonfruit flavours. A crowd drying oak and good A wine with structure 2008 HHHpleaser. $22.95 and style. Intense Austere wine with level of acidity. Has colour, complex bouquet cellaring potential.Trentham La potential. 3-5 $32 Fresh, sweet varietalFamiglia Nebbiolo and lovely soft, fresh fruit with light dusting of2006 HHH palate. Big stone-fruit oak. 3-5 $16.99Well-aged wine that has Vasse Felix and cassis flavours Thorn-Clarkereached its peak. Very Heytesbury with citrus overtones. Sandpiper Barossasavoury. Great food Margaret River Definitely one for the Cabernet Sauvignonwine. $16 Cabernet Sauvignon cellar. 5+ $35 2008 HHH Malbec Petit Verdot Lovely soft, well-balancedCABERNET 2007 HHH Windows cabernet with sweet, Thompson EstateBLENDS Lovely complex wine Margaret River lifted nectarine fruit and with warming alcohol Cabernet Sauvignon some good oak. $1711 TASTED and powerful dry/sour 2008 HHHH Minot Margaret River4 AWARDED flavours. $80 Purple hues and lifted Cabernet Sauvignon spices mingle with 2008 HHHMixed bag here, with the Vasse Felix Margaret oak on the nose. Ripe Genuine cabernet Margaret Riverstrength showing in the River Cabernet blackberry flavours on varietal bouquet. Cabernet Sauvignon'07s. Too many of the rest Merlot 2008 HHH a fresh, well-balanced Excellent depth of 2005 HHHHwere either too green or Excellent quaffer, palate with long, soft lively, fresh, chocolaty Well-integrated cooloverripe and alcoholic. with light, lifted tannins. $24 flavours. $30 climate wine ageing very varietal fruit coming well and with plenty through and chewy oak of life left. Loads of to balance it. $25 peppery/minty fruit lifted by some elegant, spicy notes. 3-5 $3874 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingMalone Wrattonbully DiGiorgio FamilyCabernet Sauvignon Wines Coonawarra2007 HHH Cabernet SauvignonRipe berry bouquet and 2006 HHHlovely long, chocolaty Well-balanced cabernetpalate. \"Drink now,\" with nice level ofadvised the judges. $25 astringency and attractiveSaracen Estates bottle age characters.Reserve MargaretRiver Cabernet 3-5 $25.99Sauvignon 2007 HHHDelightful cool climate SHIRAZstyle with light cedary/ BLENDSviolet aromas and long,elegant palate. $70 14 TASTED 8 AWARDEDBeelgara Regional Strong class with good Frog Belly Margaret Aramis Vineyards Rosenthal The NaomiReserve Coonawarra results overall, showing River Shiraz White Label McLaren Shiraz CabernetCabernet Sauvignon again that shiraz builds Cabernet 2009 HHHH Vale Shiraz Cabernet 2008 HHHH2006 HHH palate weight to most Lovely fresh, alert style 2008 HHHH Complexity of mochaOaky/cashew aromas and blends. \"Shiraz is such of wine with a big hit Intense purple wine and herbaceous fruits liftgreen nectarine flavours a forgiving variety,\" said of lifted Ribena/berry with massive jammy off the nose, followedwith drying oak tannins. one judge. aromas and a spicy/ plum nose and huge, by a lovely flavoursome peppery palate with flavoursome, peppery palate - rich, complex 3-5 $24.95 simple flavour profile. $20 fruit palate with some and developing very serious oak and good nicely. $25 level of tannins. $18.99‘FOUR STARS’ AND ‘TOP OF CLASS’ WINESTATE ‘NEW RELEASE TASTING’ MARCH 2010 Go to: www.thomastrek.com For a ‘Special Offer’ - delivered free Australia wide Offering great savings on a wine that already ‘Way Over Delivers on Quality!!’Thomas’ Trek commemorates the incredible journey of wine pioneer THOMAS HARDY in 1851, when he twice drove 500 headof cattle across the uncharted plains from Normanville South of Adelaide to Ballarat to feed the hungry gold miners, thus givinghim the capital to launch his ‘Wine enterprise’ now so famous around the globe The Thomas’ Trek Philosophy is to sourcewines for the series from the premium wine regions of South Australia and Victoria covered by THOMAS HARDY’S TREK.The initial release includes: 2008 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and 2008 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon USE PROMO CODE 1850 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 75

NEW RELEASESTaylors Promised SHIRAZ Link WesternLand South Australia 2009 - 2008 Australia ShirazShiraz Cabernet 2008 HHH2008 HHH1/2 35 TASTED Fresh and lively quafferComplex and very oaky, 10 AWARDED with pleasant redwith some pleasant stone- berry flavours shiningfruit aromas and well- The good wines here through. $14.95balanced nectarine/cassis were very, very good Windowsflavours. 3-5 $13 but they were few and Margaret River far between. There were Shiraz 2008 HHHWillunga 100 too many overripe, dead Crowd pleaser withMcLaren Vale fruit wines - a result of pleasant sweet fruitShiraz Viognier the hot '08 vintage. and lovely fresh vanillin2007 HHH1/2 oak. $24Fruit pastille-like fruitwith a touch of mint SHIRAZthat's well integrated 2007 & OLDERwith the drying oak andalcohol. 3-5 $22.95 15 TASTED 7 AWARDEDRiversands Zitta Bernado Majella Coonawarra Some good wines here,Western Rivers Run Single Vineyard Shiraz 2008 HHHHH with the best showingShiraz Cabernet Barossa Valley Beautiful complex retained fruit complexity2005 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHHH bouquet with a powerful, and freshness. But someFresh, elegant and very Nose of toasty mocha peppery fruit lift. Lovely showed poor barreldry blend with some oak and sweet stone- tight but flavoursome selection or oxidationseamlessly integrated fruits. Attractive palate palate - a balance of from poor handling.oak and nectarine fruit - complex and soft, with sweet fruit and oakcharacters. $18 lovely balance of fruit and showing excellent DiGiorgio Family oak flavours and great structure and length. $28 Wines CoonawarraAnvers Razorback overall structure. $25 Shiraz 2006 HHHHHRoad Adelaide Hills Aramis Vineyards Howard Park Sweet cashew-likeShiraz Cabernet The Governor Scotsdale Great oak integrated withSauvignon 2008 HHH McLaren Vale Syrah Southern Shiraz stone-fruit charactersSmells a little like fruit 2008 HHHHH 2008 HHHH1/2 creates a lovely complexcake and has similar Great colour. Big, ripe Classy wine with nose, followed by a bigpleasant flavours on a wine with rich berry quite a reserved fruit mulberry jam palatewell-balanced palate. $20 fruit, beautiful oak bouquet, followed by a with drying oak and high structure and chewy lovely soft, rich palate acidity. $25.99Warrenmang Bazzani Aldi Stores The Tudor tannins. Slight earthy with attractive dry redPyrenees Shiraz Central Victoria notes on the nose and flavours. \"Very easy toCabernet 2007 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHHH lovely big, soft, unctuous drink!\" $40Huge peppery/fruit Excellent purple colour flavours. $55.99cake-like aromas and big, with lifted Ribena/powerful, ripe flavours berry aromas showingwith massive tannins. $13 lovely peppery notes. Stephen John More pepper and spice on the palate - not Basket Pressed Clare Valley Shiraz overly complex but 2008 HHHH nevertheless a lovely wine. 3-5 $12.99 Massive concentration of mulberry fruit aromas and huge, ripe, alcoholic palate. Great depth of sweet fruit and drying STAR RATINGS  tannins. 5+ $25Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Howard Park Lestonexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Margaret RiverAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Shiraz 2008 HHHHprofessionals and are compared in peer Elegant medium-classes by three judges. weight shiraz - quite aCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, straightforward stylea major mail-order business. with a moody, mocha-CD Cellar door price. like bouquet and solid,CDO Cellar door only. soft fruit/oak palate. $40SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Elderton Eden Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH Contact information pg 146. Nicely balanced ripe red berry style with pleasant RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). savoury notes and a perky, peppery lift. $1976 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingWarrenmang Estate SWEET & One GoodPyrenees Shiraz FORTIFIED shot is all2007 HHHH1/2Complex aromas - a 5 TASTED it takes!combination of greatvarietal fruit and plenty 3 AWARDED A bad bottle shot can undo all the good workof new oak. Excellent that goes into the passionate making anddepth and intensity branding of a bottle of wine.of spicy varietal fruitflavours. Palate has At Wellcom, we have provenbalance and length. $60 expertise to shoot your wine and deliver premium imagery that willOakvale Barrel SelectShiraz 2007 HHH1/2 suit all applications.Big, ripe mulberry jam ofa nose and loads of stone- Our highly skilled and experiencedfruit flavours with plenty photographers and graphicof acidity. \"A clever wine,\"said one judge. $49 artists use only state-of-the-art digital technology to ensure thatKilikanoon AllianceCave De Tain your wines get our best shot.Crozes-Hermitage2007 HHH Call us to ensure that theInteresting dry, spicy combined efforts ofstyle with a lifted noseand tight and elegant your team, from viticulturistspalate. $45 to winemakers to marketersJacob's Creek Seppeltsfield are not shot to pieces byReserve South Para Vintage Tawny below average imagery.Australia Shiraz 1989 HHHHH As we say, all it takes is2006 HHH Beautiful stylish wine withStylish and fresh shiraz lovely aged tawny aromas one top shot!with an abundance of and excellent balance of So shoot us an email,varietal fruit and some aged toffee and white or dial in our phone number.nice dusty oak. $16.99 chocolate flavours. SomeRocland Estate lovely rancio characters At Wellcom we alsoAss Kisser South and fresh new oak. $75 specialise in the productionAustralia Shiraz Saddler's Creek2007 HHH Supreme Botrytis of a wide range ofNicely integrated, aged 2008 (375ml) HHHH communication andwine that's holding up Golden wine with solid promotional mediawell. Simple fruit, high botrytis aromas and including graphic design,acid. $10 lovely luscious, syrupy catalogues, banners,Malone Wrattonbully apricot complexity on the annual reports, posters,Shiraz 2007 HHH palate. Distinctly Graves- newsletters, brochures,Great colour, tarry/leathery like in style. $36 TVC production andnose and elegant palate Allandale Annawith a good complexity of Hunter Valley corporate videos.fruit characters. $25 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (500ml) HHH Very ripe, raisined aromas with dense botrytis richness and very sweet, very intense, high-acid palate. $30 43 Fullarton Road, Kent Town SA. 5067 phone +61 8 8362 1077 fax +61 8 8363 2488 [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 77 Wellcom_90x270.indd 1 16/11/09 2:29:58 PM

Winestate showcases shiraz at 2010A F T E R L A S T Y E A R ' S successful venue for Australian wine promotions in The Australian wines were served over Europe but it is clear the Vinitaly Exhibition two hours in a very comfortable tastingMediterranean tasting of Italian, Spanish offers many promotional opportunities, hall, and were decanted two hours beforeand Portuguese wines, Winestate was particularly for those producing or the tasting, each bottle being checkedinvited to the 2010 Vinitaly Exhibition to passionate about Mediterranean varieties. for quality. The wines were served inpresent a range of wines to the media, full-sized Riedel glasses with white linenpublic and wine trade. Winestate’s The Australian shiraz tasting was tablecloths for each table.marketing and promotions manager, professionally run by the Vinitaly staffPeter Jackson, assembled a line-up of and professional sommeliers from the Peter Jackson hosted the event, withnine boutique Australian wineries each Associazione Italiana Sommeliers. Vinitaly background information supplied by therepresented by one wine, the theme being also supplied Italian-speaking staff to assist wineries involved, and an Australian shirazshiraz - Australia’s iconic variety. with translation during the presentation. regional overview from David Le Mire, which will appear in the next issue of Winestate. There is a perception that this wine The event and the wines from Australiaexhibition, the world’s biggest - with 150,000 were extensively promoted by Winestate Peter conducted a detailed presentationregistered visitors paying 20 euros each, 12 as well as by Vinitaly in Italian print and as wines were presented one by one.major display halls, plus external displays, television in the lead-up to Vinitaly and Several questions were taken about eachand 4200 exhibitors - is just for Italian during the event. It was also featured in wine - mainly concerning use of oak,wines, but this is not correct because many the Vinitaly online promotions, as well as packaging, food matching and regionality.countries exhibited their wines to a vast the hard copy catalogue and CD ROM All the wines were well received, withaudience of prospective buyers. It seems distributed to tens of thousands of media comments from “very good” through tothat the London Wine Trade Fair is the main and professional visitors. “outstanding” and “world class”.78 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

THE WINES PRESENTED ‘One of the most brilliantlyBY WINESTATE WERE: run wineries in Australia’III Associates of McLaren Vale - 2008 Robert Parker JnrSquid Ink Shiraz (McLaren Vale) ORACLE SHIRAZWyndham Estate - 2006 George World’s BestWyndham Shiraz (Langhorne Creek) Shiraz Twice - 2008 International WineDennis of McLaren Vale - 2006 Peter Challenge; 2001Dennis Shiraz (McLaren Vale) International Wine & Spirit CompetitionDe Bortoli - 2007 Yarra Valley ReserveRelease Syrah (Yarra Valley) MORTS BLOCK RIESLINGMillbrook Estate - 2007 Millbrook ‘Estate’ World’s Best RieslingShiraz Viognier (Perth Hills) 2007 International Wine & Spirit CompetitionRosenvale Wines - 2005 RosenvaleReserve Shiraz (Barossa Valley) CELLAR DOOR OPENING HOURSFlametree Wines - 2008 Flametree Thursday - MondayMargaret River Shiraz (Margaret River) 11am - 5pm Penna Lane, Penwortham,Kilikanoon - 2006 Oracle Shiraz South Australia(Clare Valley) Phone: +61 8843 4206 Trade Sales: 0438 622 027Kilikanoon - 2007 Killerman’s Run www.kilikanoon.com.au(Clare and Regional SA) Join the Australian delegation The wines were compared in discussion in Verona in 2011!against the best French syrah from theRhone Valley - and won every time due VINITALY 2011 - Verona, Italy, 07-11 APRIL 2011to flavour, approachability and price,even with the high dollar/euro exchange The world’s premier wine exhibition, the ideal forumrate. None of the guests raised the issue for export-ready companies and for buyers sourcingof the relatively high alcohol content international wines.of the Australian wines (14.5 per centaverage) compared with the Italian wines, The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Melbourneat 12-13 per cent average. is the representative office of Vinitaly, providing assistance to Australian wine industry professionals The overall feedback was extremely attending the show:positive, with guests commenting on · Space and stand bookings at preferential ratesthe distinct styles apparent in the wines · Confirmed accommodation in Verona andfrom each Australian region. Therewas extensive discussion on climate, flight bookingsirrigation, screw cap vs cork and retail and · Logisticsrestaurant selling prices. It was also noted · Registrationby the guests and Vinitaly participants thatthere were only two Australian exhibitors, The Chamber also actively promotes and facilitatesincluding Winestate. contact between the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for the wine All attendees were provided with brochures industry: market research, business listings, businessas well as all contact details of the suppliers. matching and appointment agendas. Overall it was a highly successful For more information contact:promotion and Winestate was proud to Level 5, 499 St Kilda Road, Melbourne VIC 3004, Australiarepresent Australia on a world stage. Tel: 03 9866 5433We thank the Australian wineries E: [email protected] participated in Vinitaly and also www.italcham.com.authe Italian Chamber of Commerce,Melbourne (in particular Luca and Milva)who made our participation possible.The first-class efforts of the staff from theAssociazione Italiana Sommeliers wasalso appreciated.A WINESTATE PROMOTION. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 79

TOP 40 Currency Creek DiGiorgio Bleasdale Langhorne Estate Reserve Family Wines Creek Sparkling Brut Pinot Noir Lucindale Limestone Shiraz NV Chardonnay NV Coast Sparkling Fresh fruit nose with Attractive, fruit-driven Merlot 2008 some pepper and salmon pink wine Smells like ripe plums spice. Nice tannin/fruit exhibiting good pinot and has good depth weight on the palate aromas, followed by of varietal flavours, and excellent balance a lovely primary fruit slightly sweet, and a between sweetness palate. $17 dry finish. $19.99 and acidity. $19THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Styleout, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.80 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Yalumba Verdun Park Bethany Eden Valley Gotham Clare Valley Banrock StationLanghorne Creek Wines Lyla Adelaide Riesling 2009 Riesling 2009 White Shiraz 2009Vermentino 2009 Hills Sauvignon Lovely spicy floral Straw-green wine with Fresh, lifted, raspberrySmells like pawpaw Blanc 2009 intensity to the nose, grassy/herbal aromas confectionery nose withwith a touch of lime. Crisp, lively quaffer - with lively, crisp and and rich, ripe lemon/ very fresh and appealingGreat depth of creamy, would be great with delicate flavours. lime flavours with vibrant berry flavourscashew-like characters on food. Loads of flavours A keeper. 5+ $18 some green capsicum and refreshing aciditythe palate. Big start and and plenty of acidity. $18 elements and good level to balance. Lovely long,tangy, citric finish. $14.95 of drying acidity. $14 fruity finish. $9.50OTHER WHITE WINES Tallis Dookie Hills Central Victoria Viognier 2008 best buys Toasty nose with savoury elements. Very oaky palatePatritti Wines Methode Traditionale McLaren Vale with soft, velvety flavours. $18 20less thanPinot Noir Chardonnay 2006 Windowrie The Mill Central Ranges Sauvignon $ Blanc Semillon 2009Full-flavoured wine showing good level of development. Pleasant, perfumed tropical fruit bouquet and nicely balanced soft, fruity palate. $16.99Creamy nougat/cashew palate. 3-5 $12.50 DiGiorgio Family Wines Frank Limestone CoastBeresford Highwood Langhorne Creek Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay Semillon 2009Pinot Grigio 2008 Sweet melony aromas and powerful tropical fruitAppealing floral bouquet; some developed aromatics salad palate. Residual sugar balanced by acid. $12.99starting to show through. Spicy palate with lingeringflavours. $15.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 81

TOP 40 ekhidna she viper Smith & Hooper Beelgara Estate McLaren Vale Wrattonbully Range Cabernet Grenache 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 Dark and brooding wine Merlot 2008 Soft, spicy plum with aromas of boiled fruit Dusty/herbal nose and aromas and lovely soft cake and a fleshy, smooth complex fruit-driven palate with sweet oak fruit palate. $17.50 palate with tightly wound dominating. $8.99 tannin structure. $17.95TOP 40The Wine Society Clare Valley Riesling 2009 OTHER RED WINES Full-flavoured wine that's all fresh lemons and limes with hints of rose petal aromatics. Slightly sweet and Bremerton Langhorne Creek Racy Rose 2009 oily in the mouth, with a good finish. $11.99 Fresh nose smells of strawberry and Ribena. Seamless red fruit palate. Some sweetness. $15 Buller Sinister Man Victoria Chardonnay 2008 Toasty/oaky nose and reasonable weight of toasty/ Ballast Stone Stonemason Currency Creek Rose 2009 peachy flavours with a dash of spice. $10 Jubey raspberry jelly aromas and very interesting sweet and spicy palate. $12 Deakin Estate Chardonnay 2009 Creamy butterscotch nose and slightly oily, complex De Bortoli Deen Vat 1 Durif 2008 and savoury palate. Would be great with food. $10 Big oaky/plum style. Licorice characters on the nose and a chewy tannic palate with good balance Deakin Estate Moscato 2009 between oak and fruit. Drink with red meat! $12.90 Limes on the nose with musky nuances. Sweet fruit palate with attractive lemon zest acidity. $1082 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Wild Oats Cabernet Sam Miranda King Second Nature Beach Head Handpicked PeterMerlot 2007 Valley Snow Road McLaren Vale Margaret River Douglas SelectionSolid wine with Cabernet Merlot 2008 Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Cabernetrestrained, earthy, cassis Toasty oak and coffee Merlot 2008 Merlot 2007 Sauvignon 2006bouquet and complex ground characters Dark and inky wine with Savoury, briary style Attractive mint andberry/tobacco palate dominate the nose, with savoury/herbal aromas with a touch of leathery mulberry fragrances andwith nicely integrated blackberry flavours on and lovely earthy/forest age and some pretty nicely structured palatetannins. $18.99 a big, chunky, muscular floor flavours. $18 powerful tannins. $15 with 'different' spectrum palate. $12 of flavours. $18Bud Naked McLaren Vale Shiraz Tempranillo NV Windowrie The Mill Central Ranges best buysWell-structured, soft and very approachable wine with Cabernet Merlot 2008good length and depth of sweet, ripe fruit. $19.99 Ripe blackberries mingle with traces of sour cherries. 20less than Nicely framed by dark chocolaty oak. $16.99McPherson Basilisk Central Victoria Cabernet $Merlot 2008 Goose Island by Serafino McLaren Vale CabernetRich, full-bodied style with a complexity of ripe berry Merlot 2008fruit and chocolaty oak. Good length. $17.99 Extraordinary ripe, liquored, blackberry compote nose and “yummy” jammy/raisined flavours. $13Swings & Roundabouts Margaret River CabernetMerlot 2008 Ballast Stone Stonemason Currency CreekSmells smoky and toasty and tastes of cassis and Cabernet Sauvignon 2008butterscotch. Good length and balance of tannins. $19 Sound, faultless wine with simple black cherry fruit and grainy tannins. Has flavour and texture. $12 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 83

TOP 40 James Oatley Tic Tok Koonowla The Red Knot by Mudgee Frankland Ringmaster Clare Shingleback McLaren River Cabernet Valley Cabernet Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Sauvignon 2007 Sauvignon 2008 Swirls of eucalypt Developed earthy/ Classic cabernet on the nose and tart, savoury style with some nose: herbal and earthy briary fruit on the palate, nice chocolaty/prune with intense fruit with ripe tannins to elements. $16 flavours. \"Very satisfying support. $17.99 drink.\" $14.95TOP 40Richard Hamilton Hut Block McLaren Vale Yalumba The Y Series South Australia Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Sauvignon 2008 Spearmint intensity on the nose and velvety-soft in Softy textured wine with good density of varietal the mouth, with perfumed fruit and bitter chocolate characters - cassis and licorice straps - with sweet traces. $17.95 tannic spine. $12.95 Argyle Wines Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Element of Sandalford Western Australia Alluring blueberry, cassis and Asian spice aromas. Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Palate bright and lively and full of fruit. $18 Very herbaceous style - green and menthol-like, with some pleasant berry fruit beneath. $12.95 Buller Beverford Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Sweet oak and green olive bouquet and a big, oaky Bud Naked McLaren Vale Shiraz Tempranillo NV palate full of rich berry fruit. $13 Well-structured, soft and very approachable wine with good length and depth of sweet, ripe fruit. $19.9984 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Taylors Promised Taylors Promised Taylors Clare Valley Red Knot by d'ArenbergLand South Land South Shiraz 2008 Shingleback The FootboltAustralia Cabernet Australia Shiraz Inky/oaky, crimson shiraz McLaren Vale McLaren ValeSauvignon 2008 Cabernet 2008 with rich, spicy, fruit- Shiraz 2008 Shiraz 2008Lavender and rhubarb Complex and very oaky, cake characters showing Generous, balanced, Perfumed dark fruiton the nose and a mix of with some pleasant stone- a certain savouriness. yet restrained style with bouquet and generous,fruit flavours with a trace fruit aromas and well- Nice toasty oak and good plum fruit and crisp well-balanced palate withof sweet/sour notes. $13 balanced nectarine/cassis grainy tannins. Has acidity. Very Rhone-like a delicious complexity of flavours. 3-5 $13 length and balance. $18 palate. $14.95 flavours. 3-5 $18Warrenmang Bazzani Pyrenees Shiraz Cabernet 2007 Bullant Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2008 best buysHuge peppery/fruit cake-like aromas and big, Rich, ripe nose and lovely generous licorice andpowerful, ripe flavours with massive tannins. $13 dark plum palate with floral traces resembling 20less than violets. Delicious! $15 $Rocland Estate Ass Kisser South Australia Shiraz 2007 Hardys Oomoo McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007Nicely integrated, aged wine that's holding up well.Simple fruit, high acid. $10 Good spicy plum fruits linger on the quite complex nose. Palate firm, simple and quite meaty/savoury,The Wine Society Regional Premium Selection with some powerful tannins. 3-5 $18.50McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 Quarisa 30 Mile SEA Shiraz 2008 Vibrant ripe berry notes lift off the licoricey nose.Bright, vibrant, fleshy style with generous new Generous fruit flavours with chocolaty development. Firm tannins and a long finish. $9.99leather, prune and licorice-like characters. Nicetannins and good level of acidity. 3-5 $12.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 85

TOP 40 Reilly's Clare Valley Clockwork Margaret Fox Creek Red Link Western Shiraz 2008 River Shiraz 2008 Baron McLaren Vale Australia Shiraz 2008 Hot, jubey style with Super intense colour - Shiraz 2008 Fresh and lively quaffer intense and dense \"It's like black velvet,\" Oaky style with lovely with pleasant red blackberry/cassis aromas suggested one judge. elements of spices, berry flavours shining and flavours. Some very Perfect winemaking, with licorice, prunes and through. $14.95 well-handled oak. $18 magnificently ripened rhubarb. Good acid fruit, great length of silky backbone. $17.50 tannins and deft use of oak. A stunner! $17.99 Issue 112 | July/August 2010Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Printing DAI Rubicon arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.distalliance.comAdministrationVicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Telephone (08) 8357 9277Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Facsimile (08) 8357 9212Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. E-mail [email protected] Copyright 2010 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. Website www.winestate.com.auPeter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied,Marketing Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to anySue Lumb E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR:AUSTRALIA & NEW take out a subscription and save! Australia ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 7 issues (1yr) $A60 (includes $5.45 GST) SAVE $10.70 14 issues (2yrs) $A110 (includes $10 GST) SAVE $31.40 Price include GST, postage and handling. New Zealand binders Price includes Airmail. Australian residents only Please mark  one option: Your attractive binder easily holds 7 issues - handy for 7 issues (1 year) $A69 quick reference! 14 issues (2 years) $A125 Please mark  one option: Asia, Pacific 1 Binder $A19.80 Price includes Airmail. Please mark : 2 Binders $A33 7 issues (1 year) $A99 Elsewhere 3 Binders $A49.50 Price includes Airmail. Please mark : (includes GST) 7 issues (1 year) $A113 Prices available for subscribe overseas on application. Home WineMaster and enjoy Price includes Airmail. Please mark : today! Complete Software Programme V10 $A79 Upgrade to V10 $A29 Subscription Update* (1 year) V10 $A29 Subscription Update* (2 years) V10 $A49 *Requires software programme. Mr / Mrs / Miss Address Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) E-mail Your subscription will start from the next issue. I enclose my cheque for $ payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: Mastercard Visa Name on card: Signature Expires / Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 gisfutbscription Gift SubScriPtioN Tel: 08 8357 9277 Recipient’s Name www.winestate.com.au Address Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) Please send a gift card to Me Recipient Also fill in your details in the section above.

Don't forget to invite Ri c h ard. . . APIbnJ2oe0ftSoe0she9rrt(nngCMBCauClcGeaaTtLionsiobrasoootrsleendMppeCrnaenhsoMaVlryerab8seJetleeudaT&irdWnaurngoli1nespee7thsh)Soyhwofwo.r Richard Hamilton Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon... the perfect dinner guest.Cnr Main & Johnston Rds, McLaren Vale SA 5171 | p: 08 8323 8830 | e: [email protected] w: www.leconfieldwines.com

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, we willWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 89

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts price evolution promoted and promised by these defunct wine investment businesses. LANGTON’S WINE LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS For example, 2002 Mouthpiece Shiraz ($15), AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (APRIL REPORT) 2001 Balquhidder Vineyards The Poem Shiraz June 29-July 13 (Melbourne) The auction market strengthened markedly in ($16) and 2000 Classic McLaren Wines La July 13-27 (Sydney) the first quarter of 2010. Although individual Testa Shiraz Grenache Cabernet ($13.50) are July 27-August 10 (Melbourne) buyer participation increased modestly, selling at a fraction of their cost and represent August 10-24 (Sydney) bidding volume combined with robust price terrific bargains to the buyer. August 24-September 7 expectations kicked up sales results and (Melbourne) improved the overall auction room dynamic. Rare, early-modern Australian wines (pre- September 7-21 (Sydney) Sluggish seller sentiment throughout 2009 1960) are being snapped up voraciously and, resulted in near-drought supply conditions while it’s surprising what comes out of the STERLING WINE AUCTIONS and although the market was relatively woodwork, supply has dwindled at an alarming July 2-14 buoyant, the overall negative economic news rate. Many of the great vintages of the past (consignment deadline June 28) and roller-coaster stock market kept many have become near-extinct and nostalgia, July 30-August 11 casual sellers away from the auction market. along with the possibility of ‘a last fling’ with (consignment deadline July 26) Australian wine history, has propelled prices August 17-September 8 A brighter economic outlook has brought beyond expectations. This phenomenon has (consignment deadline August 23) more liquidity into the secondary wine also pulled up prices of any older Australian market. Stock flows started running more wine vintages. The remaining bottles of great ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS strongly in March, with larger auction old Australian wines are now very tightly held; August 3 - Fine & Rare Auction catalogues and a wider range of wines. This most of these wines are shared rather than (entries close July 9) generated greater interest and positive price sold into the secondary wine market. realisations, although an imbalance between MW WINE AUCTIONS supply and demand has made clearance rates Penfolds Grange moved into ‘near-record’ July 22-28 (web progressive; slightly erratic - a situation exacerbated by and ‘record price’ territory in April, indicating a submission deadline July 17) multiple lots and a resurgence in ex-Heritage genuine gear change in the secondary market. August 26-September 1 investment wines coming onto the market. Although the records may relate to single (web progressive; submission Most of these duped investors have become lots, the entire Grange genre has enjoyed deadline August 21) fed up with this long-running saga. After the reflected glory. It seems the market has several years of grief and denial, reality has gained roughly 7-10 per cent since around last GRAYS ONLINE now sunk in. These wines, many well made December. While 1990 Grange made a record Daily wine auctions (featuring a and delicious to drink, will never reach the $875 (all prices include buyer’s premium), the range of red and white wines and overall market is paying around $600-$650. regional and country-specific sales) The ’98 Penfolds Grange also made a record $692, while 2004 Grange fetched $600, (All dates are subject to change, illustrating a strong swing upwards. The without notice) $750 for the 1986 was the highest price since a ‘rogue’ bid in 2006. Vintage 1971, once an industry benchmark indicator, made $834. This is a vintage which has pulled back in recent times, but is enjoying positive movement. It should be fetching around $2000, possibly more, in five years, given the supply constraints and its fame. Henschke Hill of Grace 2002 also achieved a record price of $523 in April. In theory, this wine should benefit from the gains made by Grange, but Hill of Grace prices haven’t really moved yet. Although the flawed 1998 will always struggle, there is plenty of upward space for classic vintages like ’96, ’90 and ’86. While ultra-fine Australian wine, particularly Langton’s classifieds, is enjoying strong volume of bidding, prices are very dependent on vintage reputation. Large formats, usually quite rare, are attracting strong prices, with an imperial of90 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

wine investment & collecting1996 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz fetching favour iconic wines from good vintages and $190 for a previously unseen bottle of 1958$4128.50. Although the headline prices prices are extremely strong. However, the Mildara Le Semillon Sauternes. Widespreadare inevitably imported wines, particularly team at MW wines suspects the general support in the secondary market also remainsBordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne, the auction market will continue to be influenced for premium French wines and MW winesoverall market continues to be centred by the availability of money, with an inevitable has offered some classics over the past fewaround ultra-fine Australian wines. This is an leakage back to the many bargains obtainable months - none more so than the iconic 1985important point to make. In terms of bidding as wineries and distributors aggressively Domaine de la Romanee Conti ‘Romaneevolume, the market is particularly active at discount in an overcrowded marketplace. Conti’, which at a final price of $8108 soldbetween $30 and $200 a bottle. significantly above the published estimate. In good news from the secondary market, Increased demand from China has seen The supply of high-quality, fine Australian MW wines was pleased to offer at a recent Chateau Lafite-Rothschild become the starand imported wine has increased markedly auction an incredible number of bottles and of the Bordeaux secondary market. It wasover the past quarter and both seller and vintages of one of Australia’s iconic wines, interesting to see $575 recently paid for a 1989buyer confidence have improved. The Penfolds Bin 389. For so long Bin 389 has Chateau Lafite which only a few years agoAustralian market is benefiting greatly from been the backbone of the Penfolds range would have sold in the low to mid $300 range.the buoyant auction sales in Hong Kong and and has always offered exceptional value Vintage Champagne has also been in thethe flight of auction stock from Europe and - not only as a great drink but as a wine spotlight lately, with a 1959 and 1964 offeringthe US. The ‘go for gold’ policy of the top which can increase in value over time. As of Moet & Chandon ‘Cuvee Dom Perignon’auction houses has resulted in extraordinary an example, the ’98 - which consumers selling for $828 and $920 respectively.price realisations and an almost obsessive would have been able to buy on release atreliance on Chinese billionaires (and their $29.95 - now fetches $69 (MW latest sale As to the future, MW wines remainilk) in pulling the fine wine market out of results) in the auction market. Consumers cautiously optimistic the strength at thean economic quagmire. This focus has could have bought the ’96 for around $26 quality end of the market will continueresulted in more traditional markets looking retail; it now sells for $80. The exceptional and, over time, be complemented by aelsewhere for classic Grand Cru-type wines. investment value of this wine was recently general price rise across the entire marketPrice realisations are healthy. Even Langton’s evidenced, with an excellent bottle from the in the second half of the year. For moreExchange, which generally trades at a higher 1970 vintage achieving $150. information visit www.mwwines.com.au.price point than auction, has been turning oversubstantial lots of great ‘must have’ vintages Top Australian cabernet-based wines ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONSthis quarter. The overall effect is Bordeaux have shown considerable price growth (MARCH REPORT)and Burgundy prices are tracking at very in recent times, led by Penfolds Bin 707, For a catalogue lacking a little in stockhealthy prices, often higher than elsewhere. which has performed brilliantly over the weight, Oddbins’ March sale produced past two years. The 1990 is certainly some surprising results. Key wines such The overall secondary market is generally a brilliant wine by any measure and is as Penfolds Grange (including imperfectvery buoyant. There is even a touch of increasing this wine above the $200 mark offerings), Henschke Hill of Grace andspeculation and excitement reminiscent of for the first time. The ’96 is also in great Wynns John Riddoch all notched upa boom market. However, it will only take demand, fetching an excellent final price of clearances above 60 per cent, with mosta new bout of bad economic news to bring $207 - well above the published estimate. of the Wendouree offerings clearing aboveback uncertainty. The release of Langton’s 80 per cent. The sale could generally haveClassification of Australian Wine in October While prices for Penfolds Grange are still been described as a ‘slow night’, withwill illustrate the evolution of the fine wine strong and the price of the 1970 vintage buyers avoiding the large offerings of semi-space in Australia and the strengthening continues to rise (latest price $575) in commercial table wines but still keen to bidinterest in our heritage and history. The response to the 40th anniversary factors, it is on the higher-quality offerings. Both Grangeoutlook is more positive than it has been interesting to compare the more recent prices and Hill Of Grace remain under-representedfor a few years. For more information visit of Grange with those of the corresponding in Oddbins’ catalogues, as demand stillwww.langtons.com.au. vintage of Henschke Hill of Grace. For the continues to outstrip supply. ‘04 vintage, consumers are now paying moreMW WINE AUCTIONS for Hill of Grace ($540) than Grange ($483), March highlights included strong bidding(APRIL REPORT) and the same applies for the ’02 vintage, on a unique collection of Ardbeg singleWhile there is no shortage of highlights from with Hill of Grace fetching $517 to Grange’s malts, with the 1974 Provenance fetchingmany sectors of the Australian secondary $460. It would appear consumers are now a hammer price of $1000, while a ’63market, the market overall appears to rating the more recent vintages of Hill of Grange with a well-preserved label fetchedbe somewhat sluggish as consumers Grace more favourably than Grange and it $905 and the highly rated 2005 Chateaubalance their buying patterns between will be interesting to monitor this trend when Mouton Rothschild reached a respectablethe opportunities to acquire wine through the 2005 Grange hits the secondary market. hammer price of $820. Buyers were onauction and the non-stop wave of discounted the lookout for well-priced Australian tableofferings from retailers dealing with the MW wines continue to record excellent wines, with good clearances reported forcurrent glut. Auction buyers continue to results through their old and rare section. 2005 d’Arenberg Coppermine Cabernet, Recent highlights include $288 for a bottle of 1959 McWilliams RH Hermitage and July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 91

wine investment & collectingMajella cabernet from 2000, Noon Reserve Grange and average Grange, along with from the ’80s through to the 2000s. Specialcabernet from ’04 and ’05, ’98 Orlando the latest release of Bin 60A, a solitary Hill Bins 60A and 620 and the little-seen 1973St Hugo and Redbank Sally’s Paddock of Grace (1996) and 2002 Greenock Creek Museum Wine Sparkling Burgundy, whichCabernet Blend from the late 1990s and Roennfeldt Road Shiraz. Top spot went to achieved a hammer price of $195, alsoearly 2000 vintages. the 1963 Grange ($905). The consistent cleared well. Demand for Grange remains dominance of Grange in the Top 10 hammer very strong and there appears to be a With a limited amount of white table wine price list (and the Australian auction renewal of interest in the pre-1970 market.on offer, Grosset Polish Hill Riesling from market in general), slightly overshadows’95 through 2001 cleared exceptionally well, the special place Hill of Grace has among In a bid to answer an often-asked question,as did 2003 Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling. Australian collectors. Of the Top 10 non- ‘Can bargains still be found at auction?’,There were good clearances on a number Grange hammer prices, while Hill of Grace Oddbins’ auctioneer and valuer Grahamof budget reds, including the large offering dominated the list the number one spot Wright took a closer look at what was soldof 2001 Gilbert Siding Erebus Shiraz and went to a boxed bottle of 2002 Greenock in the March sale at the all-important $20a return of buyer interest in a number of Creek Roennfeldt Road Barossa Valley hammer price per bottle category. The $20Rosemount Estate reds, including Hill of Shiraz, which fetched $370. mark is an important one for a purchaser,Gold Shiraz, Show Reserve Shiraz and the as it is generally seen as the watershedTraditional Red Blend. The Top 10 list of hammer prices for between what consumers perceive as an imported wines included Bordeaux expensive or inexpensive wine. In addition to the 2005 Chateau Mouton First Growths and a couple of SuperRothschild, the large imported section of Seconds, Burgundy Grand Crus and the “I was pleasantly surprised to seethe catalogue saw $650 paid for a 1966 1997 Robert Mondavi Baron Philippe de what I could get for my $20 bid,” saysChateau Margaux, while the impressive Rothschild Opus One Napa Valley Red Graham. “Our Top 10 list of bargains for1990 Chateau Montrose fetched a hammer Wine, which fetched $400. As for the a hammer price of $20 included currentprice of $480. Generally, clearances for red Top 10 list of hammer prices paid for release Adelaide Hills shiraz, a flagshipBordeaux were a little slow, but demand fortified wine and spirits, it was all about wine from Coriole and a Jimmy Watsonfor well-priced red Burgundy continued, single malt whisky of the rare, collectible Trophy winner. There were also a couplewith producers like Bissey, Jadot, Faiveley and smoky type, along with some fairly of interesting ports, a few well-aged Aussieand Fourrier in good demand. Another respectable vintage ports. classics like the 1996 McWilliams Mounthighlight was the fine offering and sale of Pleasant Elizabeth Hunter Valley Semillon,vintage ports from the important 1977 and As mentioned earlier, clearance rates for and two curious but tasty table wines from1980 vintages. most Penfolds products were well above France’s south-west. Overall, some quality expectations, with good sales of most of and interesting drinking, at a decent price.” Oddbins’ Top 10 list of hammer prices the Bins 128, 28 and 389 on offer, alongfor Australian wines in March comprised with 707s from the 1990s and Grange For further information visit www.old Grange, new Grange, poorly presented oddbins.com.au. Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What92 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

wine investment & collectingGRAYS ONLINE with the ’95 fetching $1204. However, the real BLUEMETAL VINEYARD - BERRIMA(MARCH/APRIL REPORT) star performer was a bottle of 1998 Grange Perfectly set on 100 acres BluemetalOnline sales for everyday drinking wines at $614, while the ’03 vintage went for $604. Vineyard is one of the cool climateincreased during March and April as Other sale highlights included a bottle of 1993 premier Cellar Door destinations inconsumers stocked up on their favourite Moet & Chandon Dom Perignon for $419, and the Southern Highlands. Located onlyreds and whites. Despite the seasonal a bottle of 1947 Seppelt Para Liqueur Port, 5km from historic Berrima and close tochange, sauvignon blanc remained the best- which reached a startling $204. Bowral, the property is an easy 1½ hourselling varietal, accounting for nearly 14 per drive from Sydney and Canberra. Thecent of total sales, followed by shiraz and The wine industry also came together Cellar Door, Café and The Vineyardchardonnay. In the red wine auction market, to host a premium wine auction on Cottage are set amongst toweringshiraz and cabernet sauvignon made up GraysOnline to raise donations for the eucalypts and enjoy beautiful viewsmore than 40 per cent of total volume sold. Haiti/Chile earthquakes disaster relief over the vineyard and north towards the efforts. The auction featured rare and Blue Mountains. The vineyard makes In the secondary market, March and April hard-to-find gems signed by the original up approximately 10.74 hectares andproved to be stellar months for premium winemakers. A magnum of 2004 Grange, the remaining land is used for grazing.wine auctions following an increase in the signed by winemaker Peter Gago, fetched Provisions in the zoning for extensivenumber of private collectors selling their $1199. A case of 2006 Fox Creek Reserve tourist accommodation (S.T.C.A) orpersonal cellar stock. Interestingly, online Shiraz signed by winemaker Scott Zrna ideally suited for a major residence withauctions are fetching higher prices, with was snapped up for $499, beating average complete seclusion and privacy from thefierce competition among participating market prices at $50 a bottle. The steal vineyard operation and current complex.bidders pushing prices up by as much as of the day was the 1998 Penfolds Bin Asking $2.4 Million + Stocktwice the market value. A bottle of 1982 28 Kalimna Shiraz, which topped market Brett Fairley 0418 504 323Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, which typically expectations after fetching $444 for a Drew Lindsay 0412 180 765fetches $250, sold for an astonishing $594. six-bottle case - a staggering $73 a bottle versus the average $40-$50 market value. 24 Wingecarribee Street Bowral Collectors were also happy to pay a 4861 2799 • www.drewlindsay.com.aupremium for back vintages from the Wynns Overall, it’s proving to be an opportuneCoonawarra Estate range. A magnum of time to buy premium bottled-aged wines1996 Wynns Michael Shiraz sold for an for drinking now or further cellaring.astounding $304, nearly double the market Keep an eye out for daily wine auctionsvalue, while a magnum of 1997 Wynns John as well as regular private cellar sales onRiddoch Cabernet Sauvignon fetched $174. GraysOnline. For more information visit www.graysonline.com. The 1995 to ’98 range of Penfolds Grange *All prices listed exclude buyer’s premium.magnums also went up for auction online, AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 93

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. 1999 $85 GREENOCK CREEK 1987 $210 2000 $40  1998 $85 2000 $95 Roennfeldt Rd 1988 $300 2001 $30 1999 $75 2001 $80  Shiraz 1989 $240 2002 $40 2000 $80 1995 $370 2002 $70 1990 $460 2003 $30 2001 $70 2003 $80 1996 $320  1991 $370 2004 $30 2002 $65 E & E Black 2004 $75 1997 $190 1992 $350 2005 $40 2003 $60 Pepper Shiraz 2005 $85 DE BORTOLI 1998 $3801990 $85 2006 $90 Noble One (375ml) 1999 $180 1993 $300 2005 $35 2004 $601991 $90 2007 $90 1990 $45 1994 $340 2005 $601992 $56 1991 $40 2000 $220 1995 $340 1993 $65 2001 $2401994 $65 1992 $25 2002 $400 1996 $5001995 $65 1997 $3201996 $110  CLARENDON HILLS 1993 $30 2003 $200 1998 $520 1997 $70 Astralis Shiraz 1994 $461998 $100 1994 $220 1995 $38 2003 $350 1999 $380  Georgia’s Paddock1999 $75 1990 $1102000 $75  1995 $210 1996 $50 2001 $360 1991 $602001 $65 Roennfeldt Road 2002 $440 1992 $802002 $85 1996 $300 1997 $35 Cabernet 2004 $500 1993 $95 Chardonnay2003 $54 1998 $45 1994 $85 Art Series2004 $65 1997 $250 1999 $30 Sauvignon 2005 $350 1995 $752005 $70 1998 $320 1996 $70 1990 $60 1999 $310 2000 $35 1995 $300 1997 $65 1991 $70 1996 $200 Hill of Grace 1998 $90 1992 $75 2000 $270 2001 $24 1997 $165 Magnum 1999 $70 1993 $68 2002 $45 2000 $75 1994 $80 2001 $300 2003 $24 1998 $300 1980 $480 2001 $80 1995 $110  2002 $320 2002 $85 1996 $65 2003 $210 2004 $25 1999 $220 1981 Not Released 2003 $80 1997 $100  2000 $210 2004 $75 1998 $70 2004 $350 2006 $30 1982 $530 2005 $65  1999 $85 2001 $250  1983 $550  2006 $65 2000 $75 2005 $320 2006 $30 2002 $260 1984 $420 2006 $60 2001 $90 BASS PHILLIP Elderton 2002 $85Premium Pinot Noir 1985 Not Released 2003 $110 CLONAKILLA Command Shiraz 1986 $950 2004 $95 1990 $80 Shiraz Viognier 1990 $120  Grossett 1987 $650 2005 $75 1991 $100 1990 $65 1991 Not Released Polish Hill Riesling 1988 $500 2006 $70 1992 $120 1993 $65 1992 $75 1993 $100 1994 $85 1993 $65 1990 $55 1989 $650 1994 $120 1995 $65 1994 $95 1991 $45 1995 $95 1996 $100 1995 $75 1992 $45 1990 $850 1996 $115 1997 $130  1996 $95 1991 $600 1997 $180 1998 $150  1997 $80 1993 $45 1992 $580 1998 $110 1999 $55 1998 $90 1994 $45 1999 $140 2000 $65 1999 $60 1995 $50 1994 $750 2000 $110 2001 $130 2000 $65  2001 $100 2002 $120  2001 $80 1996 $45 Cyril Henschke Majella 2002 $145 2003 $110  2002 $90  1997 $60 The Malleea Shiraz 2003 $110 2004 $120  2003 $70  1998 $40 1990 $95 2004 $120  2005 $120 2004 $80 1991 $85 Cabernet 2005 $80 2006 $100 2005 $65 1999 $45 1992 $85 Armagh Shiraz 1996 $70  2007 $90 2007 $150  2000 $35 1990 $220 1997 $48 2001 $45  1993 $80 1991 $180 1998 $95 2002 $55 1994 $85 1992 $120 1999 $50 1995 $70 1993 $110 2000 $42 2003 $45 1996 $150  1994 $130 2001 $70 2004 $45 1995 $130 2002 $70 2005 $50 1997 $70 1996 $160 2003 $65 2008 $120 1998 $140  1997 $150 2004 $55 GIACONDA 2006 $40 1998 $220 2005 $60Best’s Thomson Chardonnay 2007 $40 1999 $75 1999 $130 Family Shiraz 2000 $80 2000 $1201992 $85 1990 $100 2008 $40 2001 $130 2009 $40 2001 $80 2002 $2001993 Not Released 1991 $75 2002 $100 2004 $145 1992 $851994 $70 1993 $90 2003 $651995 $1001996 $95 1994 $100 2004 $1001997 $75 Cabernet Merlot 1995 $85 2005 $801998 $100 1990 $95 1996 $130 2005 $751999 Not Released 1991 $100 1997 $90 2000 Not Released 1992 $80 1998 $125  Eileen Hardy Mount Edelstone KAY BROS MOSS WOOD2001 $90 1993 $85 1999 $110  Shiraz 1990 $120 Block 6 Old Vine Cab Sauv2004 $90  1994 $90 2000 $110 1991 $90 1995 $95 2001 $100 1990 $100 1992 $90 Shiraz 1990 $130 BINDI 1996 $100 2002 $140 1991 $55 1993 $80 1990 $95 1991 $120Block 5 Pinot Noir 1997 $90 2004 $190 1992 $55 1994 $80 1991 $60  1992 $1201997 $80 1998 $95 2005 $140 1993 $60 1995 $80 1992 $75 1993 $901998 $95 1999 $95 2006 $120 1994 $75 1996 $100 1993 $50 1994 $130 2000 $85 1995 $70 1997 $70 1994 $60 1995 $1701999 Not Released 2001 $80 1996 $95  1998 $95 1995 $50 1996 $1502000 $160 2002 Not Released 1997 $50 1999 $75 1996 $65 1997 $902001 $95 1998 $100  2000 $65 1997 $50 1998 $1502002 $110 2003 $75 1999 $70  2001 $85 1998 $80 1999 $140 2004 $70 2000 $55 2002 $130 1999 $65 2000 $1202003 $85 2001 $75 2003 $80 2000 $65 2001 $1202004 $140 2002 $55 2004 $85 2001 $65 2002 $902005 $120  D’ARENBERG Meshach 2003 $55 2005 $80 2002 $85  2003 $952006 $110  The Dead Arm 1990 $110 2004 $65 2003 $65 2004 $852007 $110 1991 $85 2004 $65 2005 $85 Shiraz 1992 $80  2006 $80 2005 $50 2006 $65 1994 $120 2006 $65  1995 $80  1993 $65 KATNOOK ESTATE MOUNT MARYBROKENWOOD 1996 $75 1994 $90  Keyneton Estate Odyssey Cab Sauv QuintetGraveyard Shiraz 1997 $60 1995 $85 1990 $55  1991 $901990 $90 1998 $85  1996 $100 1991 $45 1992 $75 1990 $2601991 $100 1992 $45 1993 Not Released 1991 $110 1999 $65 1997 Not Released Hill of Grace 1993 $45 1994 $75 1992 $1101992 Not Released 2000 $65  1998 $130 1980 $250 1994 $36 1995 Not Released 1993 $1301993 $75 2001 $70  1999 $85 1981 $230 1995 $34 1996 $95 1994 $1201994 $80 1982 $240 1996 $60  1997 $65 1995 $1001995 $70 2002 $65 2000 $70 1983 $240 1997 $40  1996 $160 2001 $85 1984 $210 1998 $60 1997 $1101996 $95 2003 $65 2002 $95  1985 $250 1999 $36 2004 $60 1986 $3501997 $75 2005 $48 2003 $751998 $110 2006 $55 2004 $7594 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.1998 $180  1990 $2,000 1996 $150  2001 $45  1991 $65  1994 $95 1999 $501999 $1202000 $160 1991 $1,100 1997 $65 2002 $40  1993 $55 1995 $80 2000 $652001 $120 1992 $1,000 1998 $95 2004 $45 1994 $65 1996 $75 2001 $1202002 $140 1993 $1,000 1999 $70 2005 $45 1997 $65 2002 $652003 $140 1994 $800 2000 $60 2006 $45 THREE RIVERS/ 1998 $110 2003 $602004 $140 1995 $800 2001 $60 Chris Ringland 1999 $75  2004 $852005 $160 1996 $1,000 2002 $80 Wines Shiraz 2000 $702006 $150 1997 $800 2003 $60 1990 $900 2001 $70 Moet et Chandon 1998 $1,200 2004 $75 1991 $700 2002 $120 Cuvee Dom 1999 $890  2005 $65 1992 $650 2003 $60 Perignon 2000 $1,100 Stonewell Shiraz 1993 $750 2004 $70 1973 $360 2001 $1,100 Magill Estate 1990 $90 1994 $600 2004 $70 1975 $400 2002 $1,500 1990 $70 1991 $70 1995 $500 1976 $300  2003 $900 1991 $70 1992 $60 1996 $1,200 1978 $290 2004 $1,100  1992 $55 1993 $65 1997 Not Released 1980 $220 Bin 95 Grange 1993 $50 1994 $65 1998 $900  1982 $450 1951 $43,000 1994 $60 1995 $60 1999 $600  1983 $1801952 $17,000 1995 $45 1996 $95 2000 $450 John Riddoch 1985 $3001953 $13,000 1997 $65 Cab Sauv1954 $10,000  1996 $70 1998 $75 2001 $850 1990 $70 1988 $2601955 $3,600 1997 $60  1999 $75  2002 $850 1990 $6001956 $14,000 1998 $85 2000 $70 2003 $500 1991 $75 1992 $240 1957 $11,000 Bin 707 1999 $65  2001 $65 1992 $601958 $4,800 1980 $130  2000 $55  2002 $70 1993 $55 1993 $2201959 $2,000 1981 Not Released 2001 $55 2004 $85 TORBRECK 1995 $2201960 $1,400 1982 $140  2002 $70 1994 $70 1996 $3001961 $1,200 1983 $130 2003 $70 Run Rig Shiraz 1995 Not Released 1998 $2601962 $1,100 1984 $95 2004 $65 1995 $250 1996 $75  1999 $2301963 $1,000 1985 $120 2005 $60 1996 $350 1997 $50 2000 $2501964 $700 1986 $160 2006 $75 1997 $240 1998 $801965 $550 1987 $140  1998 $350 1999 $52 FORTIFIEDS1966 $600 1999 $200 2003 $501967 $700 1988 $150  Bin 389 Basket Press 2000 Not Released 2004 $551968 $550 1989 $140  1990 $100 2001 $190 2005 $751969 $550 1990 $170 1991 $80 Shiraz 2002 $220 2006 $601970 $360 1990 $150 2003 $200 Para Liqueur1971 $700 1991 $140 1992 $50 1991 $140 2004 $200 1878 $1,600 1972 $350 1992 $140  1993 $55 2005 $200 Michael Shiraz 1879 $1,2001973 $360 1993 $130 1994 $65 1992 $95 2006 $150  1955 $1,600 1880 $8001974 $380 1994 $150  1993 $75 1990 $100 1881 $8001975 $400 1887 $8001976 $650 1995 $50 1994 $90 1893 $1,0001977 $400 1995 Not Released 1996 $85 1991 $65 1899 $1,0001978 $400 1996 $200 1995 $75 1992 Not Released 1908 $5501979 $380 1997 $45 1996 $140 1910 $5001980 $350 1997 $150 1998 $80 1993 $65  1922 $500 1981 $350 1998 $200 1997 $95  1925 $8001982 $350 1999 $50 1998 $190 1994 $65 1927 $4801983 $360 1999 $130 1999 $95 1995 Not Released 1930 $240 1984 $350 2000 $55  Shiraz 1996 $70  1933 $200 1985 $350 2000 Not Released 2001 $50 1990 $145 1997 $55 1939 $1501986 $550 2001 $120 2002 $60 2000 $80 1991 $130 1998 $65 1944 $901987 $320 2001 $85 1992 $80 1999 $45 1947 $801988 $350 2002 $160 2003 $50 2002 $140  1993 $90 2003 $50 1951 $3001989 $350 2003 Not Released 2004 $48 1994 $160 2004 $601990 $580 2004 $150 2005 $50 2003 $100 1995 $90  2005 $651991 $420 1996 $1601992 $350 2005 $140 2006 $45  222000000546 $951993 $350 2006 $150 $951994 $350 $95 1995 $320 RWT1996 $480 Bin 707 Magnum 1997 $95 2007 $100 1997 $901997 $340 1980 $190 1998 $140 1998 $1601998 $540 1981 Not Released 1999 $100 1999 $1001999 $410 1982 $210 2000 $90 2000 $90 2000 $420 1983 $260 2001 $85 2001 $95 The Octavius Shiraz2001 $400 1984 $190 2002 $120 2002 $150 1990 $752002 $450 2003 $80 1991 Not Released2003 $380 1985 $230 2003 $110 2004 $150 1992 $602004 $520 1986 $340 2004 $110 Old Block Shiraz 2005 $130  1993 $45 Grandfather Port 1987 $190 2005 $90 1990 $85 2006 $110 1994 $70 1940 $240 1988 $180 2006 $110 1991 $50 1995 $65 1945 $220 1989 $175 1992 $40  1990 $360 Block 42 1993 $40 WILD DUCK CREEK 1996 $90 1991 $240 Cab Sauv 1994 $45 ‘Duck Muck’ 1997 $60 1992 $165 1996 $420 1995 $45 Shiraz 1993 $200 2004 $600  1996 $70  1994 $400 1998 $100 1994 $350 1997 $40 1995 $400 1999 $60 1995 Not Released 1998 $65 1996 Not Released 2000 $60 1996 $380 1999 $60  1997 $490 2001 $85 Vintage Port 1997 $225 2000 $40 1998 Not Released 2002 $100 1998 $320 2001 $40 1999 Not Released 2003 $75 1956 $120 1999 $190 2002 $80 2000 $350 2004 $75 1958 $140 2000 Not Released 2003 $50 2001 $340 1964 $110Bin 95 Grange 2001 $250 Coonawarra 2004 $50 2002 $360 1965 $110 Magnum 2002 $235 Red Blend 2005 $50 2004 $320 1966 $100 2004 $300 2006 $70 2007 $260 1967 $651979 $1,800  2005 $320 1990 $65 Dry Red No. 1 1968 $651980 $900 1991 $55 1990 $150 1969 $50 1981 $1,000 1992 $40 1971 $601982 $950 1972 $551983 $1,0001984 $880 1993 $35 SEPPELT 1991 $75 1985 $900 St. Henri 1994 $40 Show Sparkling 1992 $601986 $2,000 1995 $35 1993 $551987 $900 1990 $170 1996 $55 Shiraz Black Label 1994 $701988 $800 1991 $95 1997 $45 1984 $65 1990 $100 1995 $551989 $850 1992 $70 1998 $75 1985 $90 1991 $110 1996 $65 1993 $70 1999 $45 1986 $75 1992 $70 1997 $75 1994 $65 2000 $45 1987 $70 1993 $80 1998 $80 1995 $65 1990 $70 July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 95

352 TASTED188 AWARDEDCABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSIt is only a matter of time before the general public ‘discovers’ The Wine Societycabernet again. The rest of us know that this variety (and blends) Margaret Riverproduce some of our greatest reds, and here we can revel in great Cabernet Merlotbargains across the board, with some superb wines at the pointy end! 2008 HHHGreen fruit was a problem with some, but luckily for us there are Red berries edged withmore than enough wines that achieved ripeness and were matured green, stalky aromas.by some great winemaking. Backbone is the feature of this variety. Plenty of varietal freshness on the palate.CABERNET Aldi Stores Three Nice tannins. $12.99SAUVIGNON Notes Adelaide Hills Goose Island by& BLENDS Cabernet Sauvignon Serafino McLarenUNDER $10 2008 HHH Vale Cabernet Subtle red fruit aromas Merlot 2008 HHH10 TASTED overlaid with coffee Extraordinary ripe, notes and caramalised liquored, blackberry4 AWARDED fruit flavours. $9.99 compote nose and “yummy” jammy/Reasonable group of CABERNET raisined flavours. $13sound wines, although BLENDS De Bortoli Windysome were quite $10 - $15 Peak Victoria‘assertive’ and dry, Cabernet Merlotwith pressings coming 19 TASTED 2008 HHHthrough and not enough 6 AWARDED Hints of asparagus onflavour to carry them. the nose. Bold cherry Some good buys here palate with drying oak30 Mile SEA Aldi Stores Aldi Stores but you have to look tannins. $14Cabernet Sauvignon Corraburra Estate Kingridge Estate for them. The younger Hundred of Comaum2008 HHH SEA Cabernet Shiraz Bellbirds SEA vintages, in this price The Marketing ToolSmells of licorice and Merlot 2009 HHH Cabernet Merlot range, perform better as Cabernet Sauvignonstewed plums with good Bright purple wine with 2009 HHH to be expected. Shiraz 2008 HHHup-front, sweet, cherry/ spices and mulberries Quite minty aromas Interesting perfumedberry flavours. $9.99 on the nose and light, with hints of herbs Sam Miranda King aromas and long, soft, fresh and juicy in the and lavender, and very Valley Snow Road varietal palate with a mouth. $5.49 pleasant varietal fruit on Cabernet Merlot zesty finish. $14 the palate. $5.99 2008 HHH1/2 Quarisa Treasures Toasty oak and coffee Coonawarra ground characters Cabernet Merlot dominate the nose, with 2006 HHH blackberry flavours on Blackberry and plums lift a big, chunky, muscular off the nose and fill the palate. $12 mouth with flavour. Quite assertive tannins. $14.9996 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

varietal tastingCABERNET McPherson Cabernet Quarisa Johnny Q Red Knot bySAUVIGNON Sauvignon 2009 HHH South Australia Shingleback McLaren$10 - $15 Pronounced fruity Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernet aromas with berry-like 2008 HHH Sauvignon 2008 HHH24 TASTED characters and soft Smells a touch tarry, Classic cabernet18 AWARDED and juicy in the mouth. with underlying nose: herbal andImpressive consistency Crunchy acidity. $10.99 spearmint characters. earthy with intensefor the price bracket. Dorrien Estate Bin 11 Much the same on the fruit flavours. “Very“Much better fruit than Cabernet Sauvignon persistent palate. $11.99 satisfying drink.” $14.95the blends, with more 2009 HHHsubtle varietal character Vivacious raspberry Element of Rouge Hommeand less assertiveness,” aromas with a herbal Sandalford Western Coonawarranoted one judge. edge. Soft in the mouth Australia Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon“Incredibly good value,” and with plenty of Sauvignon 2008 HHH 2008 HHHsaid another. flavour. $14.99 CM Very herbaceous style - Rich and complex; spicy Deakin Estate green and menthol-like, and chocolaty, withDe Bortoli Deen Vat 9 Cabernet Sauvignon with some pleasant berry lovely aged charactersCabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH fruit beneath. $12.95 and good texture. $14.992008 HHHH Softly layered wineIntense aromas Aldi Stores Tangerine with purple fruit, some Mt Monster Burk Salter Southreminiscent of Valley Padthaway confectionery notes Limestone Coast Australia Cabernetblackcurrant fruit drops Cabernet Sauvignon and a pleasant hint of Cabernet 2008 HHH Sauvignon 2007 HHHwith a nice thread of 2008 HHHH leafiness. $10 Layers of sweet spice “A very together wine”chocolate. More of Elegant, smooth, ‘sexy’ and rhubarb lift off the with loads of cassis fruit,the same on the rich wine smelling and Wisdom Creek nose. Ripe dark berry mint and dark chocolate.palate. Great weight and tasting of strawberries, Wines Prophet’s flavours with some Ageing very well. $14structure. $12.90 CM cassis, spice and Pledge SEA leathery age. $12.99 cedar, layered with Cabernet Sauvignon The Wine Society Quarisa Treasures some lovely chocolaty 2008 HHH Coonawarra Coonawarra elements. $12.99 Very delicate floral Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Yalumba The Y Series fragrances and soft, 2008 HHH 2006 HHH South Australia evenly structured palate. Very stylish wine, more Soft, easy-drinking style Cabernet Sauvignon Herbal flavours and on the savoury side, with blackcurrant fruit 2008 HHH1/2 grippy tannins. $14 with solid cassis fruit spiced with violets and Softy textured wine and firm tannins. Good earthy notes. $14.99 with good density of structure. $12.99 varietal characters - Taylors Promised CABERNET cassis and licorice Land South Australia BLENDS straps - with sweet Cabernet Sauvignon $15 - $20 tannic spine. $12.95 2008 HHH Ballast Stone Lavender and rhubarb 27 TASTED Stonemason on the nose and a mix of 16 AWARDED Currency Creek fruit flavours with a trace Cabernet Sauvignon of sweet/sour notes. $13 The judges found more 2009 HHH Howling Wolves variation in this group. Soft, light wine with Margaret River “Some were quite ripe, a mix of vanilla bean, Cabernet Sauvignon while others were too raspberry fruit gums and 2008 HHH green,” said one judge. rhubarb elements. $12 Very charry oaky aromas “Those that got it right in and big, rich cabernet the middle showed good palate. Needs more time flavour and balance.” to really shine. $14 DAY 1 - JUDGESSimon Rowe Greg Tilbrook Louise RadmanBuying and promotions Senior winemaker Wine educator andmanager for Sip ’n Watson Wine Group. wine program managerSave Cellars. Diploma Former winemaker at for the Intercontinentalof Wine Marketing. Wynns Coonawarra Adelaide hotel, LouiseTwelve years in the winery for the past is both a wine writerretail liquor industry, five years. Previously and sommelier and hasincluding managing winemaker at Amberley judged at the Sydney,Parade Cellars in SA. Estate, Margaret Adelaide and Adelaide River for six years. Hills wine shows. Completed a vintage in Languedoc, France. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 97

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSBuller Black Dog Stefano de Pieri McPherson Basilisk CABERNET Thorn-ClarkeCreek King Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Central Victoria SAUVIGNON Sandpiper BarossaCabernet Merlot Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Cabernet Merlot 2009/2008 Cabernet Sauvignon2008 HHH1/2 Lifted blackcurrant aromas 2008 HHH $15 - $20 2008 HHHHRipe, up-front blackberry with lavender notes. Very Rich, full-bodied style “Gorgeous wine.” Earthyfruit with a touch of flavoursome palate tasting with a complexity of ripe 27 TASTED and spicy on the nose,fresh herbs. Oak-derived of berries with a dash of berry fruit and chocolaty 17 AWARDED with a perfumed lift.aromas and some coffee. $17.49 CM oak. Good length. $17.99 Very mixed group of Intense, youthful palatepowerful oak on the Goundrey Sandalford Margaret wines, but there were full of ripe cassis fruitpalate. $15 Homestead Western River Cabernet more highs than lows. with a licorice thread andWild Oats Cabernet Australia Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH “Consumers should soft tannins. $15Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Very herbaceous style. be happy to buy these Pepper TreeSolid wine with Lifted leafy/minty “One for those who like wines at this price,” Wrattonbullyrestrained, earthy, cassis aromas and a stylish their cabernet green.” one judge commented. Coonawarrabouquet and complex complexity of red berry Nice mulberry fruit and “Solid flavours with Cabernet Sauvignonberry/tobacco palate flavours. “Elegant and grippy tannins. $18.95 some complexity 2008 HHHHwith nicely integrated kind,” suggested one Yalumba The coming through on the Delicately perfumedtannins. $18.99 judge! $17 Scribbler Barossa better wines.” nose and soft and Neil McGuigan Cabernet Sauvignon chocolaty in the Series Cabernet Shiraz 2008 HHH Rosedale Cat mouth. Still very Sauvignon Merlot Earthy blackcurrant Amongst the young. Nicely handled. 2008 HHH1/2 aromas with a whisper Pigeons Cat Walk Well-structured, with Boysenberry bouquet of choc mint. Nice ripe Barossa Valley powdery dry tannin and very flavoursome dark fruit on the weighty Cabernet Sauvignon spine. $18 red berry palate. Has palate. $19.95 2008 HHHH weight and structure Stonyfell The Cellars Big, rich, complex and a sweet, tannic Cabernet Sauvignon number loaded with finish. $15.49 CM Merlot 2009 HHH mulberries, roses and Swings & Fragrant floral bouquet spices and balanced Roundabouts and soft berry palate. by lovely oak-derived Margaret River Very pleasant and characters. “Very Cabernet Merlot elegant style. $16.99 CM satisfying to drink.” $15 2008 HHH Barossa Valley Estate Smells smoky and E Minor Barossa toasty and tastes of Valley Cabernet cassis and butterscotch. Merlot 2007 HHH Good length and balance Thick, rich wine with of tannins. $19 nicely aged leathery fruit Windowrie The Mill characters and super-soft Central Ranges tannin structure. $15 Cabernet Merlot Beach Head 2008 HHH Margaret River Ripe blackberries mingle Cabernet Sauvignon with traces of sour Merlot 2007 HHH cherries. Nicely framed by Savoury, briary style dark chocolaty oak. $16.99 with a touch of leathery Smith & Hooper age and some pretty Wrattonbully powerful tannins. $15 Cabernet Sauvignon Coobara Adelaide Merlot 2008 HHH Hills Cabernet Dusty/herbal nose and Merlot 2007 HHH complex fruit-driven Smells and tastes of palate with tightly wound plums and cassis, with tannin structure. $17.95 a hint of licorice and Clockwork Margaret charry oak. Crunchy River Cabernet acidity. $18 Merlot 2008 HHH Earthy/leathery nose with a hint of mint and plum and blackberry flavours with green nuances. $17.9998 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

varietal tastingJames Haselgrove Virgara Wines Elderton Eden Valley Ingoldby McLaren Clockwork MargaretWines Selections SEA Adelaide Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernet River CabernetCabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2009 HHH Sauvignon 2008 HHH Sauvignon 2007 HHH2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 Perfumed nose with Tarry/earthy nose and Smoky tobacco aromasEarthy/briary bouquet Oaky, butterscotch- floral notes, and intense, nicely aged ripe, juicy mingle with blackberrywith dusty, sandalwood- like aromas and solid, fruit-driven palate with a plum palate with a long, jam. Pleasant berrylike notes. Fleshy palate velvety palate with a lingering finish. $19 velvety finish. $19.99 flavours - some savourya nice balance of fruit, complexity of berry, Argyle Wines notes. $17.99oak and tannins. $15 chocolate and vanilla Coonawarra Rosemount ShowFlametree Embers flavours. $17.99 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Coonawarra Handpicked PeterRed Margaret River d’Arenberg The High 2009 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Douglas SelectionCabernet Sauvignon Trellis McLaren Vale Alluring blueberry, cassis 2008 HHH Coonawarra2008 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon and Asian spice aromas. Dark, brooding colour, Cabernet SauvignonLoads of minty/cassis 2008 HHH1/2 Palate bright and lively powerful medicinal/ 2006 HHHaromas and intense Complex, seamlessly and full of fruit. $18 clove aromas and spicy/ Attractive mint andmulberry and cassis layered wine with Haselgrove Primo savoury flavours. $19.99 mulberry fragrances andflavours with good boysenberries, menthol, Taglio First Cut nicely structured palatelength and structure. violets and spices. Has McLaren Vale CABERNET with ‘different’ spectrumMore time! $17 grace and poise. $18 Coonawarra SAUVIGNON of flavours. $18Richard Hamilton Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 & OLDERHut Block McLaren James Oatley 2008 HHH $15 - $20 CABERNETVale Cabernet Tic Tok Mudgee Elegant style, with BLENDSSauvignon Frankland River layers of tomato leaf, 17 TASTED $20 - $252008 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon cassis fruit and spicy/ 3 AWARDEDSpearmint intensity on 2008 HHH chocolaty oak. $16 29 TASTEDthe nose and velvety- Swirls of eucalypt on the Angove Family “A dismal group,” 10 AWARDEDsoft in the mouth, with nose and tart, briary fruit Winemakers Vineyard was the unanimousperfumed fruit and bitter on the palate, with ripe Select Coonawarra conclusion. “At this price Another disappointingchocolate traces. $17.95 tannins to support. $17.99 Cabernet Sauvignon range these wines are not group. “Too many light 2008 HHH built to age,” said one. wines here with green Lovely menthol lift to “While ‘07 is a reflection capsicum overtones or the nose, with more of the difficult vintage, the lacking balance of fruit menthol mingling with ‘06s should have been with the tannin and acid, red berries on the better.” In a number of while some were at the palate. $18 these the fruit was gone! other extreme - being Sister’s Run too ripe”, said one Gomersol Barossa Koonowla The panellist. “We expected Valley Cabernet Ringmaster Clare more at this price.” Sauvignon 2008 HHH Valley Cabernet Smells like a berry Sauvignon 2007 HHH compote with hints Subdued earthy/rhubarb of violets, and tastes bouquet and ‘woody’, of raisined fruit and boot polish palate with strawberry jam! $18 cherries underneath. $16 Taylors Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH Has the colour of squid ink, with mint and blackberry aromas and soft, chocolaty/Bonox flavours. $18Scott Rawlinson David Flemming DAY 2 - JUDGESChief winemaker Senior winemaker withfor Serafino Wines Scarpantoni Wines. Has Phil Reedman MWat McLaren Vale. had extensive winemaking Master of Wine. Wine andPreviously winemaker experience both in Australia and retail industry consultant.with Mildara at overseas, including five years as Formerly productJamieson’s Run and Seppelt winemaker, stints with development manager ofWolf Blass. Associate McGuigan, Arrowfield, Tesco stores, responsible forjudge at Canberra Oakridge & Yarra Burn. Has Australia, New Zealand andwine shows and also vintaged in Italy, California, South America. Has judgingworked a vintage in Hungary and Canada! experience in the Riverland,Northern California. Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale wine shows. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 99

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSSaracen Estates Jokers Peak Orange Thorn-Clarke Ring Bolt Pepperjack BarossaMargaret River Cabernet Merlot Shotfire Barossa Margaret River Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Quartage 2007 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/22007 HHHH1/2 Nicely aged earthy/ Complex bouquet - 2008 HHHH Smells of blackberries,Delicious, well-made leathery nose with some verging on porty - with Green peppery bouquet mint and chocolate.wine with a nose that’s mint and plums. Lovely a rich, full-bodied plum/ with some cassis fruit Long, balanced palate,rich with plums and oaky palate. Long, firm blackberry palate. $20 showing through. Palate firm in the mouth,tobacco and underscored tannins and prominent has great structure with an intense flavourwith licorice. Beautifully acidity. $22 Big Shed Cabernets and balance. Still very profile. $24.99balanced, full-bodied MadFish Sideways 2005 HHH young. Good cellaringpalate with lovely flavour Margaret River Big wine with complex, potential. $24.95 Sittella Margaretconcentration and long Cabernet Sauvignon meaty nose and huge, Frog Belly River Cabernetfinish. $22 Merlot 2008 HHH tannic palate with Margaret River Sauvignon 2008 HHHLeconfield Simple wine with dense, dark, chocolaty Cabernet Sauvignon Still young and oaky,Coonawarra chocolaty/tobacco nose flavours. $23 2009 HHH1/2 with elegant structureCabernet Merlot and chewy, chocolaty Elegant, seamlessly and beautifully balanced.2008 HHH1/2 palate. Good tannin Watershed Senses balanced wine with Would be great withSeamless complexity structure. $20 Margaret River lovely young, dark berry food. $24of dark chocolate, mint Mount Alexander Cabernet Sauvignon fruits, hints of violets andand smoky traces. Great Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2005 HHH tobacco-like oak. $20 Yalumba Theflavour length. Good use 2008 HHH Lovely age and Harrington Glen Cigar Coonawarraof oak $24.95 Jammy, ripe fruit aromas complexity. Full of smoky/ Estate Granite Cabernet Sauvignon and almost fortified-like meaty characters with a Belt Cabernet 2008 HHH palate that’s loaded with warming finish. $24.95 2008 HHH1/2 Long, lifted, dark flavour. $20 Lifted minty/chocolaty/ plum nose and sweet, Willunga 100 CABERNET black olive aromas and flavoursome and slightly McLaren Vale SAUVIGNON long, firm, tannic palate porty palate. “Tastes Cabernet Shiraz 2009/2008 with intense berry expensive!” $24.95 2008 HHH $20 - $25 flavours. $20 Soft, approachable style Dowie Doole Maximus McLaren with long, lingering earthy/ 29 TASTED McLaren Vale Vale Cabernet chocolaty varietal aromas 9 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2008 HHH and flavours. $22.95 2008 HHH1/2 Rich, full-bodied and “A strong 2008 character Vibrant choc/mint bouquet complex wine with Wyndham Estate showing through here,” - luscious, complex and lovely licorice notes George Wyndham said one judge. “Lots of full-on. Slightly sweet to the nose and a Founder’s Reserve cooked, stewed wines blackberry palate with palate loaded with Cabernet Merlot with thin acid flavours good use of oak. $22 blackcurrants. $24.99 2004 HHH as a result of the hot Bright plum bouquet spells.” However, the CABERNET and rich, seamless good wines avoided SAUVIGNON palate, lots of dark those problems and 2007 & OLDER chocolate. Delicious were well made and $20 - $25 drinking now. $22 nicely balanced. 20 TASTED Vasarelli Family 6 AWARDED Reserve McLaren Vale Cabernet The judges agreed the Sauvignon good wines here were 2008 HHHH very good, but there were Firm, full-bodied wine also some pretty ordinary with great structure ones too. The 2007s and seamless balance. generally had the tannins Intense, jubey, but not the fruit, and this blackcurrant fruit aromas shows up with age. and long, lingering, sweet berry flavours. $22.99 CM100 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010