Winestate Magazine September October 2016

FINAL TOP 10 $25-$30 $30-$35 $35-$40 1. Penfolds Grange South Australia Shiraz 2010 $1,048Leconfield McLaren Vale Wolf Blass Blass Noir Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz 2014 Barossa Valley Barossa Shiraz 2013 2. Annie’s Lane Copper Trail Clare HHHHH $26 Shiraz 2014 Valley Shiraz 2014 $79.99 HHHH1/2 $30 HHHH1/2 $37.99 3. Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy$ 9 0 - $ 10 0 $10 0-$20 0 $200+ McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 $49 Saltram No.1 Mollydooker Velvet Penfolds Grange 4. Wolf Blass Estates of theBarossa Shiraz 2012 Glove McLaren Vale South Australia Barossa Dorrien Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 $89 HHHHH $99.95 Shiraz 2014 Shiraz 2010 HHHHH $185 HHHHH $1,048 5. EQUAL PLACE Grampians Estate Streeton Reserve Shiraz 2012 $75 Sanguine D’Orsa Heathcote Shiraz 2014 $59.95 6. Mollydooker Velvet Glove McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 $185 7. Saltram The Journal Centenarian Barossa Shiraz 2010 $174.99 8. Saltram No. 1 Barossa Shiraz 2012 $99.95 9. EQUAL PLACE Domaine Asmara Reserve Heathcote Shiraz 2013 $45 Sidewood Estate Mappinga Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2013 $60 10. Saltram Moculta Road Barossa Shiraz 2010 $90.99 MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & 51 SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XI STARTS PAGE 70. September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOEL sfiziose, special meatballs coated in a deliciously sweet Napoli sauce is finished with asiago cheese and is delicious especially when paired with a glass of house chianti and a serving of involtini. Deliciously char- grilled eggplant is filled with minced beef, parmesan, onions and breadcrumbs and sports a robust marinara sauce. Channelling Puglia, the orecchiette alla cime di rapa e pancetta is a must-order – ear-shaped pasta is tossed with broccolini, crispy pancetta, fresh red chilli, garlic and a light dusting of grated parmesan. There’s a bistecca served with potato gratin, mushrooms and chestnuts but the owners recommend La tagliata di manzo, a Tuscan dish of grilled sirloin slicedJohn Fink, creative director of The Fink and another is the baby barramundi with and mixed with peppery rocket leaves, saltyGroup was recently quoted as saying, “We salsa verde, already a famous staple of thewere looking to take the OTTO brand outside Woolloomooloo menu. The wine list is also in shaves of parmesan and a healthy dollop ofSydney and felt that Brisbane would be the good hands with ex-E’cco Bistro sommelierperfect home. There are so many exciting (and Good Food Guide recipient of the Pol EVOO. Trafalgar Lane, 3/855 Stanley Streetthings happening in Brisbane, not to mention Roger sommelier of the Year Award), Alanthe vibrant, growing food scene, it really is Hunter collaborating with Ned Goodwin Woolloongabba. Phone (07) 3391 1045.something I want to be part of. It goes without MW, a fink Group consultant on a line upsaying that diners can expect the same that ‘features the unique and celebrates the Casa Nostra popped up recently in the Mfresh, seasonal, produce-driven offering, classics’.with ingredients that speak for themselves, & A Arcade in Fortitude Valley in the spaceand that wonderful and seamless, quality of Bar Otto, a casual eatery open for breakfastservice we dish up down in Sydney.” and lunch as well as a spot of spuntini in the previously occupied by the Americana styleAnd so he chose the beautiful Dexus Group evening, sits opposite the restaurant properbuilding, 480 Queen Street, designed by on the parkland level of the building. Saatchi eatery Mighty Mighty. It’s the latest venture forrenowned architect Brian Donavan of & Saatchi-designed pasta packaging willDonavan Hill Design, as Otto’s first home serve time-poor workers of the 4000-strong restaurant owners Biagio and Sarah Biusoaway from home. Almost a holiday home with building well, as will the locally roastedsweeping views of the Brisbane River and the and powerfully fragrant Blackstar coffee. who sold their eponymously named Red HillStory Bridge that lights up like a Christmas Parkland Level 4, 480 Queen Street, Brisbane.Tree at night, the space is contemporary Phone (07) 3835 2888. restaurant (now Colle Rosso) in 2012 to seaand takes from the successful Sydney DNAwith inspiration drawn from the heritage- Staying with an Italian vibe, Ristorante change to Cairns. But the pair missed thelisted Woolloomooloo Wharf. The Brisbane La Famiglia also opened recently in asister venue features lots of natural materials new building in the up and coming area of hustle and bustle of Brisbane and wanted toincluding timber slatted walls and ceiling, Woolloongabba. Once only known for itsmarble resin and naval brass fittings. Like iconic cricket stadium, this suburb in the city’s return to their friends and customers so haveits Sydney counterpart, the menu, under inner south is enjoying an influx of artisanalthe stewardship of Sydney sous chef, Will openings - quirky cafes, more established opened a very traditional venue featuringCowper has created a produce-driven menu eateries, authentic pizzeria’s dotted betweenbrimming with local ingredients. One such homeware, antiques and furniture shops. a pizza menu alongside seafood dishes,offering is the black and white tagliolini with Deb & Cosimo de Nicholo’s first restaurantMoreton Bay bugs, cherry tomatoes and basil has a traditional menu beginning with a wide pasta and slow cooked meat dishes that pay range of assaggini followed by selections of pasta, secondi and contorni. Polpette homage to Biagio’s Sicilian heritage. Expect to find calamari fritti, black lip mussels in white wine and vongole and prawns with scampi in a creamy bisque sauce alongside ricotta and porcini filled tortellini, house spaghetti with pancetta and artichokes and veal scallopini with spinach, sage a asiago. Rosso pizzas are as popular as the bianche – quattro formaggi being the most popular of the latter and salami with fior di latte topping the charts of tomato-bases. Finish with an affogato or maybe a little slice of pistachio semifreddo – you won’t regret it. 6/100 McLachlan Street Fortitude Valley. Phone (07) 3257 0007. Above left: Food from OTTO Restaurant. Above right: Long thin pasta, smoked ham hock carbonara, pecorino, from OTTO restaurant.52 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINSO MANY cuisines, so little time… culture has hit its straps in the last ten also in the city, with business partner AdiMelbourne has a solid coffee culture; many years - think The Press Club and Gazi,of our Chinese and Italian restaurants are Epocha and Elyros - George Calombaris’s Halim, who is director of the Halim Grouphighly regarded around the country (in Made Establishment Group (who ownsome cases, the world) and in the last few The Press Club and Gazi in their stable) which owns the Windsor Hotel.months we’re turning our attention to other have created a very Melbourne-meets-the-cuisines - not that we’ve ever neglected Adriatic vibe with their Hellenic Republic Liston says that the permanent venuethem - but there are some contemporary outlets, the most recent of which openedtakes on other culture’s dishes that are in June in Williamstown in Melbourne’s will be more high-end dining and not just aearning some big attention here in Victoria. west. The original plan was to open twoForget the kofte or shisha, Tulum is a years ago but a major refurb of an old pub noodle bar. The new venue will have a rawnew restaurant that is opening the eyes of can cause its own delays and delay it didMelburnian’s to a very savvy perspective of with it finally opening to much anticipation. bar serving Japanese-inspired seafoodthe current state-of-play with Turkish food. Chef Josh Pelham, formerly of EstelleDetermined to show the other dishes of this Bistro in Northcote, heads up the kitchen in dishes such as ocean trout sashimi withrich culture, chef and owner Coskun Uysal Williamstown (there are other Hellenic’s inis taking ideas and influences from the Brunswick and Kew) and you’ll find a menu pickled ginger and the jewel in the kitchenTurkey of today and showing that there’s so consistent with these venues but they’llmuch more to Turkish food than just kebabs. tweak here and there to suit each part of crown will be a $50,000 custom-built uber-Uysal worked in London, at the acclaimed town. The soft-shell crab souva is there orRiver Cafe among other great venues, perhaps you’d like to try the one with lambs’ grill, which can spit roast, yakitori andbut he loved visiting Melbourne - he brains, mustard and onion rings. There’s alsoloved that we’re also passionate about the slow-roasted lamb shoulder or the grilled smoke. Currently on Bourke Street, Listonfood - and he decided to come here, put saganaki, topped with apple puree in placehis flag in the sand, and set up shop. of the usual spiced figs. Hellenic Republic, is serving a relaxed, contemporary menuTulum is a 36-seat dining room in Balaclava, 28 Ferguson St, Williamstown, Phone (03)not an area largely recognised for its culinary 9393 1000, including chicken yakitori, spring rollsprowess except for a little restaurant in theneighbouring suburb of Rippon Lea (Attica). Chef Adam Liston, formerly of bursting with braised duck and cabbageBut Tulum does sit on Carlisle Street, a Collingwood’s Northern Light - that focussedpopular strip of retail and dining options on Japanese and Korean cuisine - has set and the outstanding salt-and-pepper squidand he’s garnering a strong following from up camp at the back of the historic Hotelwalk-by trade who are discovering his menu. Windsor in Melbourne’s CBD. Liston and with ink noodles and pork crackle. Honcho his team opened Honcho Noodle in June Uysal takes influences from many of the as a three-month pop-up in the old Wallis & Noodle, 1 Bourke Street, Melbourne. Phonedishes his mother taught him and filters them Ed site on the Spring Street end of Bourkethrough contemporary culinary techniques. Street. After the stint here, he’ll open the (03) 9633 6265. His mum’s version of the classic dish cilbir permanent Honcho space on Punch Lane,(eggs poached in yoghurt) is made his Top: Interior of the new Hellenic Hotel in Williamstown.by using smoked yoghurt, organic eggs,two kinds of butter, a crumbly butter and Above right: Exterior of the new Hellenic Hotel inone flavoured with sumac – and plonking Williamstown.crispy chicken skin on top. Wonderful!The foundation of the menu is in its sauces,all of which are made on the premises.The aforementioned smoked yoghurt,the pickles, cheeses and vinegars. Thewine list was designed by Pei Modernmaître d’ Ainslie Lubbock, and includesdrops from Beechworth to Istanbul.Tulum, 217 Carlisle Street, Balaclava. Phone(03) 9525 9127. We love Greek food in Melbourne andwhile its foothold in Melbourne dining September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 53

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGON a chilly Autumn evening a crowd of degree of tenderness - just right - the tapas menu – ‘natch’. The “fish ‘n’ chips” isItalian senior citizens wearing flat caps sit intense spiciness will have you reaching a standout - housemade chips with taramaoutside their favourite bar, as they have for a glass of water. But not because you dip. But leave plenty of space for whateverdone for years. Stanley Street straddles feel that you have swallowed the bar of an meat is being cooked to perfection on thethe two dominant moods of Darlinghurst - electric fire. Manager Michael Bornie, a rotisserie - chicken, lamb, pork, Blackmoretraditional and hip. Two doors up from the trained sommelier, has put together the wagyu beef blade and tripe for the morescene that could have been air-freighted proverbial eclectic wine list. Beer is often adventurous. My favourite? The snapperfrom any town in Italy, you’ll find the post- the best choice with any Asian cuisine and fillet served with spiced eggplant. As befitsindustrial interior of Lazy Suzie. Neon there’s a tightly edited list ranging from Mercado’s CBD location, lunch is servedhoop lights by Studio Ham stretch from Cooper’s Brewery “Dr Tim’s” to Koshihikari, from Monday to Friday. Mercado, 4 Ashthe door to the bar, and the funky blend a Japanese rice lager. The wine list has Street, Sydney; phone (02) 9221 6444.of brickwork, wooden beams and subway a similar global feel, veering from grunertiling showcase the design talent of Matt veltliners from Austria through a French Folonomo is an acronym of For LoveWood. The biggest surprise is that the food viognier and a tempranillo from Spain. Not Money. The brainchild of financieris Malaysian hawker-style. Chef Zacharay Lazy Suzie is a new direction for the group Matthew Byrne, all of the restaurant’sTan and his team from the popular Devon and underlines the fine dining expertise of takings are donated to not-for-profitCafe and Devon on Danks are the guiding Tan and head chef Berron Kim. A clear organisations. There’s nothing hair shirtlights behind Lazy Suzie. The menu is departure from the breakfast fare of the about contributing to the common gooda sophisticated take on street food with Devons, which gained deserved fame for when you dine out, though. Chef Jo Warda strong Penang vibe. There’s a heavy combos such as taro Scotch eggs and has worked her culinary magic at Vincentemphasis on cocktails to lure Millennials azuki filled cronuts. There is a brunch menu in Paddington, Bloodwood in Newtownand hipsters, including Tequila Malacca, a with a point of difference on weekends, and Claude’s, Sydney’s sorely missedswirl of tequila, yuzu, pomelo, pomegranate, including roti BLT with egg. A hint that even temple of gastronomy. Located in a classicsage and fennel, and Penang Blazer, a hot if you are merely peckish, it’s smart to order terrace, Folonomo’s interior belies its givingtoddy blend of spiced rum, botrytis riesling one or two of Lazy Suzie’s freshly made rotis back philosophy. Brushed metal, ornateand bitters. Teetotallers don’t miss out on the with anything you choose from the menu. cornices and trendy lighting sound just thefun, thanks to an outstanding selection of Lazy Suzie, 78 Stanley Street, Darlinghurst; right pared-back note. Sharing plates aresmall batch sodas from Sydney-based P.S. phone (02) 7901 0396. the main game and excellence is the soleSoda. There’s something for every appetite standard. The lamb on smoked eggplantfrom tiny to ravenous. The absolute musts Nathan Sasi first came to widespread is as much of a visual as a taste treat. Theon the snack list are the lobster thermidor public notice at Nomad in 2013, where rabbit croquettes have become a go-to dishand yuzu mayo spring roll and the longevity his contemporary take on sharing plates for regulars, as is the slow-cooked chickenbao, a taste explosion of a soft bun filled with attracted the trendies and kept them coming in white wine with harissa, coriandercrispy soft shell crab, curry leaf and salted back for more. Sasi has teamed with veteran and hazelnuts. If you think that vegan isegg yolk. For more intense hunger pangs, restaurateur Steve Anastasiou (China Doll, synonymous with bland, the sunflower seedthe Not So Big offerings range from crispy China Lane) for his latest pack-’em-in hot risotto will readjust your thinking - a nuttypig tails to pie tee, pastry cups packed with spot - Mercado. The underground cellar mélange of rice, bean sprouts and charredbraised shiitake, carrot and spanner crab. premises really give the Spanish theme a asparagus. Meatlovers will find it impossibleThe standout of the Strictly Hawker trio is strong dose of authenticity. Forget dingy to go past the hanger steak. Tender andthe kerabu chicken salad, a chilli-dominated dives reeking of Rioja, the slick Ash Street rare, the meat is a perfect foil for the richmelange of shredded poached chicken, hideaway gleams from the marble bar mushroom flavoured sauce and contrastinggreen mango and cucumber served with to the whirring rotisseries. Sticking to the bed of healthful farro. Yes, Folonomo isbetel leaves. I’m a big fan of rendang but template he established at Nomad, Sasi licensed. Folonomo, 370 Bourke Street,Lazy Suzie’s interpretation ditches the continues his commitment to handmade Surry Hills; phone (02) 8034 3818. rule book. Aunt Yulia’s version is more at Mercado - from the bread throughof a modern riff on the theme - Rangers smallgoods and vinegar. There’s a lengthy Above left and right: Food from Lazy Suzie Restaurant.Valley wagyu beef cheek served with alight coconut and lemon grass curry. Tan isdedicated to ridding Sydneysiders of theirpreconceptions about Malaysian food. Hesucceeds big time with the Ayam Percik, aspeciality from the Malay charcoal grill. Ahuge leg of chicken cooked to a Goldilocks54 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINSFOR all the excitement generated by the and be no better than this. Larger courses which oyster and shiitake mushroomstemporary relocation of Swedish restaurant include a gorgeous-looking salad of pickled perch. The logs are inoculated with theNoma to Sydney recently, one can’t help kohlrabi, shaped into little cones, come appropriate spores and held under waterbut suspect those eager Sydney punters with stringent lillipilli, dorrigo pepper, sorrel for two hours, simulating a heavy tropicalwould have been far better rewarded leaves and a lemon myrtle dressing, and rainstorm, and out pop the shiitakes. Withinhad they flown to Adelaide, dined at Jock another with thinly-sliced strips of kangaroo hours they’ve joined crisp skinned, twiceZonfrillo’s Orana, upstairs at the eastern loin, lightly seared over coals and arranged cooked pork belly on a plate with babyend of Rundle Street, stayed the night and as a kangaroo footprint before being topped carrots, carrot puree and mushroom dust,flown home. With a menu costing about with a melange of fermented gubbinge just one of the dishes on offer in either threea third of Noma’s, and no less exciting, (Kakadu plum) from the Kimberley and wild or five course degustation menus pairedthey’d still have had a heap of change left radish leaves. If you’re lucky there might with Maxell wines. Lehmann has veryover. Zonfrillo is far from being the first chef be magpie goose on the menu, a rare and quickly shown he’s a major addition to theto be fascinated by the potential of using much prized game bird – ruby red, barely already impressive culinary line-up of thenative produce. But in Australia no other seared, thinly sliced, on a bed of mashed, region. Olivers Road, McLaren Vale. Phonechef has come close to understanding the smoked potato with smoked leek and a (08) 8323 8200. Open for lunch Thurs-Mon.nuances of flavour and texture, been able slightly acidic, clear sauce from pandanusto create dishes of such exquisite balance vinegar and bunya nut brine, with a scatter The Apothecary has matured as Southand depth. The meal starts with around 15 of red saltbush berries. Zonfrillo is in search Australia’s definitive wine bar, but it alsotasting dishes, what Orana calls Alkoopina, of a really authentic Australian flavour, and continues to build its reputation as aor snacks, followed by four or five slightly at Orana he’s found it. 285 Rundle Street, restaurant, with a range of warmly furnishedlarger dishes and a couple of desserts. Adelaide. Phone (08) 8232 3444. Open for dining spaces from rustic, brick-lined cellarThere’s a tiny loaf of damper, cooking and lunch Friday, dinner Tue – Sat. to snug mezzanine and intimate groundcrisping on a bowl of hot coals, with lamb floor “drink dispensary”. Over the pastbutter – like a thick hollandaise made from German chef Fabian Lehmann had year chef Frank Hero has lifted what wasaged, roasted lamb fat. Then one of several a pleasant surprise when he arrived in already a very good dining experience totastes in a tiny wooden spoon, chicken liver McLaren Vale three months ago to take over a new level with dishes such as searedparfait with shavings of wild Adelaide Hills the kitchen at Maxwell Wines’ Ellen Street scallops with smoked parsnip foam andhawthorn and a scattering of mountain Restaurant, part of the winery’s splendid beetroot crisps, lightly smoked eye filletpepper. Slender Moreton Bay fig shoots are cellar door complex with panoramic views carpaccio with mustard-infused truffle oil,cooked in blackwood ash water to draw out over McLaren Vale. Burrowed deep into and a richly braised alpaca roulade withtheir bitterness before being brushed with the limestone of a surrounding hill was a juniper berries and shimeji mushroom.pandanus fruit puree topped with dried tunnel filled with mushrooms, making Ellen Even more comforting is the exceptionalcrumbs of Moreton Bay fig leaves. There’s Street quite possibly the only restaurant in wine list. It provides many tasting choices.a single mussel shell filled with a delicate Australia with its own dedicated mushroom ranging from 75ml tasting glasses thatmussel custard with a lightly cooked mussel farm. It had been something of a discovery can be matched to each course, to 150ml,on top and a sprig of sea blight; a small bowl for winery owner Mark Maxwell when he 250ml and 500ml formats, plus a range ofof nutty-flavoured macadamia milk spiced bought the vineyard in the 1980s. A little half and full bottles from the extensive mainwith native thyme. Still in this list of “snacks” research revealed the 50m tunnel had been list. 118 Hindley St, Adelaide. Phone (08)comes a sensational bowl of pippis cooked dug in 1916 in order to grow mushrooms, 8212 9099. Open for dinner daily. over eucalypt with smoky eucalypt leaves then abandoned and later used by Maxwellin a broth of their own juices and a little for subterranean dinners until he decided Top left: Pork belly from Ellen St Restaurant.crème fraiche, with beach succulents such two years ago to restore it to its original use. Above: Snacks from Orana Restaurant.as samphire and sea celery. A dish like this Now there’s a long elevated rack supportingin a top-starred Michelin restaurant would sacks of different sorts of mushrooms –probably set you back $100 on its own, crunchy, fragrant portobellos, king brown mushrooms and logs of “substrate” on September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 55

winewords K AT E L AU R I E ROAD WINERYW I N E M A K E R / C O - O W N E R - D E V I AT I O NSKYE MURTAGH problems. I loved science at high school but didn’t want to spend every hour in a lab, so the wine industry was the perfect occupation for me.WINEMAKING has always been a family Exactly how did you wind up at the Lycée Any stand-out training experiences whileaffair for WA-born Kate Laurie. After getting Viticole d’Avize? you were over there?her start in the industry working alongside I was studying a bachelor of Agricultural It was more a visit and tasting experienceher folks when they ran Stone Bridge Science at UWA - as back then the only that I’ll never forget. During a trip to the southEstate Winery in Manjimup, Kate kept the place to study oenology was at Roseworthy. of France early in my stay, I met up with‘all in the family’ approach going when, in After first year I felt I wasn’t heading in the Paul and Ann Conti - winemakers from WA2001, she teamed up in business in the right direction - or I wasn’t going to get there who’d been very helpful to our family in theAdelaide Hills with her husband - vigneron fast enough, so I took a year off and went early days. We visited the highly acclaimedHamish Laurie. Together they’ve developed to work at a vineyard in France. By chance Chateau Rayas, and I was very lucky toDeviation Road into a brand that today I was given a job with a family winery in meet and taste from barrels with the late Mrexemplifies the Adelaide Hills’ capacity to Champagne, and through these contacts Jacques Reynaud. He barely spoke, otherproduce high quality cool climate wines. was invited to study at the local wine school. than to tell me how his sister made cakeKate’s professional training ground was at My parents saw what a huge opportunity from the local pine nuts, and to dismiss mythe Lycée Viticole d’Avize in Champagne this was for me, so helped me set up an overenthusiastic descriptions of his shiraz.and it was in France that her love affair apartment near the school so I could follow He gave me his number on the back of awith ‘bubbles’ began. It’s a passion which my dream. label and I visited him again before I leftcontinues just as strongly to this day, France. He still inspires me today.with premium bottle fermented and aged What was that experience like?Australian sparkling wine being Deviation It was incredible! There were ups and After graduating you returned home andRoad’s signature style. downs - I was away from home a long time worked with your parents from 1997 to and still pretty young. Obviously being 2001. Was it challenging coming backTell us about those early days helping in Champagne and studying a specific and putting your training to practice inyour parents out at their winery? winemaking style in such detail gave me Australia?My parents had only just started Stone a deep understanding of what it takes to The hardest thing was dealing withBridge vineyard when I finished high make sparkling wine. I also made friends the distance! Everything is so close inschool, so my experience there was very and contacts that I’ve kept in touch with, Champagne, and the network of peoplemuch learning how to build a business so I’m able to keep up my French and quiz at your fingertips. Stone Bridge was ratherfrom scratch. I was lucky to be involved in them on technical issues during the year. isolated, so you had to back yourself a lotthe viticulture, winemaking and eventually and ‘McGyver’ solutions frequently. Themarketing of the wines - so these skills were And we can thank France for your love climate in Manjimup was a little warmer thanpretty handy when Hamish and I decided of ‘bubbles’? Champagne so the challenge was adaptingto create Deviation Road ourselves. You I definitely discovered bubbles in France. practices in the vineyard and then makinghave to stay focused, work towards your To be completely honest, I didn’t drink much decisions in the winery that would help medreams and not overcapitalise too soon. wine when I moved there! I was frantically continue to make sparkling wine in the styleThis industry is good for that! reading Bryce Rankin “How to make good I’d grown used to drinking. wine” before I started school. My motivation for entering the wine industry was to have How did you come to start up Deviation a career where I could work physically as Road with Hamish? well as being pushed intellectually to solve Hamish had already created Deviation Road as an export label for the US a year before we got together. When we decided to give it a go as a team the direction changed to the brand being Adelaide Hills, boutique and premium wines which we were both more familiar with.56 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

Like you, Hamish has a family history in This is also the moment I can make that style Adelaide Hills’ wines these days. Thisthe wine business. Did your respective decision you asked about earlier. Wine is increased exposure of our region has reallyfamily experiences influence how you architectural. Building layers of structure, come about in the past ten years thanks towanted to run Deviation Road? flavour, texture, complexity and finesse. a diverse group of makers setting up here.We both addressed the positives and We have a high proportion of wineries thatnegatives early on. Working with your Winemaking is just one of the hats you are really small, and we’re all working tohusband/wife is going to have added wear in the business - what else might make unique styles - in touch with whatchallenges as work never leaves you. you be spotted doing? consumers are looking for. People are moreFortunately we have quite defined roles I do poke my head in at the cellar door experimental with what they taste, and alsofor the most part, and then work together occasionally - although I tend to bore interested in the origin of food. The Adelaideon all major decisions. Having worked in customers with technical info. My favourite Hills wineries communicate this really well. Ifamily businesses prior we both understood input down there is running sparkling wine was surprised early on when selling wine inthe importance of communication, and to masterclasses. They’re really popular the other states, by the amount of educationshare the same goal of never compromising and the people that come are genuinely I had to do about the region, its climate andquality from grape to bottle. interested in the process and the subtleties wine styles. Now everyone seems to get it! of champagne and sparkling wine.To what extent is the Deviation Road What are some of the challenges ofoperation kept ‘on-site’ in terms of grape What Deviation Road product are you running a small winery in today’s market?production and the winemaking itself? most excited about right now? Hamish and I made a pact from the start toThe majority of our wine is produced on site. We had our first crop of grüner veltliner only ever produce what we could sell, andIt’s critical to have control over the process from our home block this year. It was great to grow organically once there was demand.for me, in particular with the sparkling tirage to play with a new variety, letting myself go This has been tricky with the sparkling asand disgorging. It’s a very stressful process a bit and experiment with skin contact and we hold this wine back for up to five yearsbut one we want to manage from start to ways to create more body in the wine. It’s a - predicting demand for that one is hard!finish. The fruit is sourced from multiple sites fabulous grape, huge texture and flavour for The biggest danger for wineries is to investin the Adelaide Hills, and we now have our a white wine that works really well with food. in too much equipment and stock early on.own vineyard at the winery with pinot, shirazand grüner veltliner. In terms of consumer interest, where How have your own wine tastes changed do you feel the Adelaide Hills region over the years?What part of the winemaking process do currently sits within the Australian and My tastes have become more diverse. Earlyyou never tire of? NZ marketplace? on I was pretty focussed on sparkling wineBlending. I love seeing how each parcel I’m not sure about NZ but there’s definitely and pinot/chard but with the years andcomes together to create a complete wine. enormous interest Australia-wide for exposure to myriad wines, I’m now ableEffective water treatment for : • Dripper Scale • Salinity • Pipe scale • Canopy growth • Iron scale • Brix & Baume www.hydrosmart.com.au H Y D R O S M A R T 1300 138 223 I am happy to recommend use of Hydrosmart to any grower, considering adapting it to their site’s water, as it has added real value to our business. After using it for well over a decade we plan using Hydrosmart on all d’Arenberg bores, well into the next successful decade of growing and winemaking. - Giulio Dimasi Viticulturalist / Grower Relations d’Arenberg Osborn Road McLaren Vale SA September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 57

SUBSCRIBE TO to enjoy pretty much any style if it is well OUR COMPLETE made. With the new focus on grüner I taste PACKAGE which as many of these wines that I can to see the full spectrum of flavours it can give. includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Do you and Hamish ‘collect’ wines and Winestate’s web site and reviews. what currently rates as its top drop? Available only through online We tend to buy wines according to what order, www.winestate.com.au we’re focussed on at that moment in the winery. It’s an expensive game, so we use GIFT SUBSCRIPTION the opportunity to learn from the cellar as much as pure enjoyment. Unless you’re Tel: 08 8357 9277 talking Champagne and then I just go for www.winestate.com.au enjoyment! I have a bottle of 1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millenaires that I’m58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016 saving for a really special celebration. If any of your three kids decide to follow in your footsteps professionally, what would be the sagest piece of advice you could give them? It would be the same advice as for any job. Don’t expect things to fall in your lap, and always try your best at everything you do. Finally, what do you know about the wine business now, that you wish you’d known at the start? Everything! And then nothing. I think a little naivety is essential in following your dreams. The spontaneity of life is what gets me up in the morning. Top right: Kate Laurie from Deviation Road, photo credit courtesy of Tim Jones Photography, www. timjones.co



W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press1997 $80 2005 $651998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $1502001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $1402002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $952003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $1502004 $110 Shiraz2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $2802007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $1602009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/1993 $80 1997 $1901994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $2001995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $6001998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $7001999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,0002002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,0002003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $8502004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,0002005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $4502006 $110 1959 $2,0002007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,6002008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $7060 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $3,2001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $850 1994 $120 1992 $2701995 $110 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  click1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  blink1998 $160  1996 $260 drink1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $4502000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $7002001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $8502002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $4202003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $5202004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $4502005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $8502006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $5602008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $6002009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $7502010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $9002011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 Visit us for all your premium wine needs1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $2601879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 pulpitcellars.com.au1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $3001881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380 1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $3001887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $2501901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $3201930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $1051933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $1251939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $1801944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $7001947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280 Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $2001982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $8001983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $5601990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $4201992 $240 1994 $5501993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $3601995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $4201996 $370  1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $4201999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $2002003 $190 2003 $2942004 $170 September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 61

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts of $631. The perfect 100pt 2008 Grange was just a sip behind with one less bidMOSSGREEN-WEBB’S STERLING WINE AUCTIONS and one less dollar, at $630 hammer fall.September 20: - The Fine Wine (JUNE MARKET REVIEW BY LYNTONCollection of ‘Saggio di Vino’ BARBER) Rare, highly desired collectables areOctober 11: - Fine & Rare Wines Wild Whisky action was the flavour of always represented and the 1994 Leeuwin(consignments close: September 23) the month with special limited editions Art Series Chardonnay received lots ofNovember 15: - Fine & Rare Wines finding their way into Sterling Auction bidding and a ‘reasonable’ hammer fall of(consignments close: October 28) and sparking a frenzy. The Most Wanted $70.22 year old premium chardonnays are from the most recent auction was a bottle a bit of a gamble, but well worth the risk.ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS of 1993 Glenmorangie Ealanta Single This bright looking bottle with original fillOctober 4 (closes September 9) Malt Scotch Whisky which was sold to should deliver on the great expectations. the highest of 39 bids at a hammer fallGRAYSWINE of $356. Not surprising then that five of One of the true legends of the genuinelyDaily wine auctions, starting from $9 the top ten were whisky, including a few outstanding 1996 vintage, is the 1996per case, with a 30 day money back household names. The Labrot & Graham Henschke Mount Edelstone. I wasguarantee. Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Small lucky enough to try one in June and theFine wine auctions end Monday- Batch Bourbon took out the number primary fruit is still rioting in the glass.Tuesday-Thursday each week. two position on the most wanted list, Give it another 20 years to settle. At $153Port and spirit auctions end on with Blanton’s Gold Edition Single Barrel hammer fall, the discerning buyer wasWednesdays. Bourbon NV in the number four spot. happy to beat the stiff competition.LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS The perennial ever-bloom, Penfolds Vintage Port, or Australian FortifiedWith three fine wine catalogues closing Grange was well represented in the Top Liqueur as it’s now called, is a bit ofper week, Langton’s offer the best Ten, with a bottle of the classic ‘30th a mystery. If we think of fashion andfine wine range to choose from. Visit Birthday’ 1986 selling for a hammer fall demand being cyclical and then think oflangtons.com.au for a comprehensive just how mad cheap these wines sell atlist of the auction event calendar. auction, then it must be worth buying some big name bargains and ‘holding’STERLING WINE AUCTIONS for the next wave. Penfolds, Hardy,Auctions run every two weeks, back-to- Lindeman, Orlando, Seppelt and a hostback, finishing on Wednesday evening. of Rutherglen icons put their very best work from the 1960s and ‘70s into Port(All dates subject to change without notice.) bottles. If you can’t wait until the Port ‘bull market’ returns, buy a few birth year Ports and use them for family toasts. That might get demand going! Here’s the same story, but in a different flavour. Premium white sweet wine, particularly Sauternes, has fallen on hard times. Just about any producer, with the exception of Chateau d’Yquem, is selling cheap into a market that has almost lost interest. If you’re thinking of making changes and trying something new - get guilt, indulgence and reward working together and drink less but drink better! Like so many good ideas this one isn’t easy to get started. The simple plan is to drink half of what you’re currently enjoying and double the price of what you will drink. Winning on the health and smug stakes lets you boost the snob ranking and drink flash all the time. For more information about Sterling Wine Auctions visit www.sterlingwine. com.au. (All prices quoted are hammer fall - before BP.)62 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016



wine investment & collectingMOSSGREEN-WEBB’S (1995 – 2007 inclusive) and Musigny Lafite Rothschild that sold for a very(JUNE REPORT BY REECE WARREN) Vieilles Vignes (1997 – 2008, with the reasonable $20,325.Mossgreen-Webb’s Fine & Rare Wines exception of 2003 and 2005) which wereauction on June 14 saw us enter an exciting both auctioned separately. The Bonnes Consignments are rolling in for ournew chapter with the first live online Mares achieved $7,478 and the Musigny next auctions with a vertical of Penfold’sauction of fine wines in New Zealand. Vieilles Vignes achieved $8,739. This was Grange (199 0 – 20 01) and Te MataThe auction was offered on Mossgreen- all purchased by one buyer and the vendor Bullnose (1992 to current vintage), as wellWebb’s Live, enabling clients to watch the was very happy with the result. as the complete cellar list of Saggio diauction and bid from the comfort of their Vino, arguably Christchurch’s finest diningown home. We had our usual number of Australian ‘superstars’ continue to sell restaurant - which will be auctioned onabsentee bids, as well as a number of well and we managed to set a new auction September 20 and is a must-see for everybidders (many new) who chose to bid record for a sealed case of 1998 Penfolds collector. We look forward to the next hostonline, via Mossgreen-Webb’s Live. This Bin 389 that reached $180 per bottle. of sales, to which we are now consigning.proved to be very popular and we have These wines are always snapped up ashad positive feedback on this new format. they do represent very good value. To be the first to hear about auctions andSell through rate from this auction was upcoming catalogues, subscribe to our68 per cent. Following the auction, we Larger format bottles showed very e-newsletter at www.mossgreen-webbs.offered the unsold lots for 48 hours only well with a magnum of 1990 Chateau co.nz. (All prices in this article are inclusivein a ‘Buy Now’ format which also proved de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape of Buyer’s Premium + GST.)successful. selling well above its estimate achieving $576. A double magnum of 1985 Taltarni GRAYSWINE Highlights of the auction included many Cabernet Sauvignon sold for $480 and (JULY 2016 REPORT BY GREGVintage Ports and Sauternes from a cellar another double magnum, a 2005 Te Mata FITZSIMMONS)that had, allegedly, not been accessed for Coleraine, sold for $600. All in all, it was The financial year flashed by quietly under18 years. These wines had great interest a successful evening with many happy the cover of Brexit, but as we pause to takefrom bidders who took the opportunity vendors and equally happy bidders. stock and look back on the great resultsto bid on wines that were mature and of the past 12 months, we’re particularlyin no need of further cellaring. We did, Following the success of the live and proud of the many changes we’ve madehowever, exclude many wines from this online auction, we then offered our first at GraysWine and the positive resultscellar that we did not believe would be in online only auction which ran on our they’ve returned for our vendors. Thegood condition. website for one week. This again attracted highlights have been a new stand-alone many new bidders who enjoyed the ability website and App, a significant increase in Other highlights included a vertical of to bid directly from the website from marketing and themed sales which haveComte Georges de Vogue Bonnes Mares their home or office. The highlight of this auction was 18 bottles of 2011 Chateau CATALOGUE ONLINE 13/07/16 3:42 pm Fine & Rare Wines Mossgreen-Webb’s leads the New Zealand auction market. Our auctions offer fine and rare wine from throughout the world, as well as Ports, Cognacs and Spirits. Auctions: Tuesday 20 September - The Fine Wine Collection of ‘Saggio di Vino’ Tuesday 11 October Enquiries: Reece Warren | +64 9 524 6804 [email protected] Thinking of Selling? We Are Now Consigning 23-25 Falcon Street Parnell, Auckland 1052 www.mossgreen-webbs.co.nz64 WinestaWte IJuNly EAdSveTrt.AindTd E1 September/October 2016

wine investment & collectingseen a steady flow of new customers to and the 20 0 6 d `Arenberg The Dead Leoville Las-Cases ($599), 1966 Chateauour website. Arm Shiraz 2006. At $90 per bottle, the Margaux ($469), cases of 1999 and 2001 Diana Madeline is full of mulberries and Chateau Mouton-Rothschild ($459 per In June another container of the finest chocolate aromas, velvety smooth tannins bottle), cases of 2001 Chateau Haut-BrionAustralian wines came back out of the with a touch of leather (age) and perfectly ($434) and 2001 Chateau Palmer ($309)now defunct Bottled Wealth Holdings balanced. It’ll be good drinking for many - plus a further 100 units sold individually.and Australian Wine Index in South years to come. Like its winemaker, The One of the biggest selling Bordeaux’sEast Asia. These wines read like the Dead Arm Shiraz is loud with full ripe rich in the world is back at GraysWine - thewho’s who of classic Australian wine aromas of spice, dark plums and pepper. splendid Domaine Barons De Rothschildsand included Elderton, Balnaves of The palate is concentrated black fruits, (owners of Chateau Lafite) Légende andCoonawarra, Cullen, d`Arenberg, Grant smooth tannins and sports an exceptional Saga ranges. Believe it or not, you canBurge, Hewitson, Howard Park, Kalleske, balance of power and finesse. It’s no pick up these wines for around $15-20Tahbilk and Torbreck - to name just a few. wonder this wine wins consistently high per bottle.All had been sold to investors with grand ratings from wine critics and, at aroundpromises of spectacular returns dashed $50, it represents great value. We expect sales volume will continueby a much more sober reality. The result to increase throughout the second half ofhas presented a great opportunity to Other stars in this consignment include 2016, especially in the new 24 hour salereturn these wines to an appreciative 2003 Barossa Old Vine Company Shiraz and Tuesday feature sales. Rememberaudience in Australia, just as the wine ($45), 2004 Elderton Command Shiraz that a winning bid on a Tuesday nightmakers intended. These wines are in ($75), 2003, 2002 and 2005 Grant can see the wine sitting on your table forexcellent condition - having left Australia Burge Meshach Shiraz (average $70 per Friday’s dinner (in most east coast metroin air-conditioned comfort, been stored in bottle) and the superbly impressive 2005 destinations). This promise is backed byperfect conditions in Singapore and now Torbreck Run Rig ($150). For the finest the immediate despatch of all our winesreturned to us in refrigerated containers. of Australian classics at attractive prices, after the close of every sale.I’ve been fortunate to sample many of the you can’t go past GraysWine.wines and they’re in flawless condition, For great prices on an extraordinaryworthy of a five star provenance rating. Bordeaux volumes steadily increased range of fine wines, followed by fast andGraysWine will continue to sell these over the winter months, both in value and efficient service delivery, it doesn’t getwines over the coming months, but volume. One particular sale saw great better than the new GraysWine ’Worththey’ll be popular - so be quick and take results with a 6L Imperial of 2000 Chateau every Drop’.advantage of this great offer while it lasts. Cos d’Estournel selling for $2104 and a 6L Imperial of 1999 Chateau Leoville Barton For more information visit www. Two of my top picks from this collection achieving $1639. Other notable results grayswine.com.au. (Prices listed don’tinclude the 2004 Cullen Diana Madeline from Bordeaux included 1982 Chateau include buyers’ premium.)Introducing GraysWineJoin our community of wine loversand growers. Discover a better wayto buy and sell wine.Choose from 30 day Quick Delivery Name your Price2000+ Wines Money-Back RIGHT TO YOUR BID FROM JUST $9WORTH EVERY GUARANTEE DOOR FOR MOST CASES DROPFind out why selling and buying wine on GraysWine is worth every drop!Contact us: [email protected] September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 65

wine investment & collectingODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Hewitson Private Cellar Mourvedre, (level into neck) - in its original timber(MAY AUCTION REPORT BY GRAHAM 2011 Kellermeister Wild Witch and the case - which achieved $850. The soleWRIGHT) remains of a previous large offering of non-Grange in the Top 10 was a bottle ofDespite a short supply of stock, even on 2012 Stefano Lubiana Chardonnay. There 1990 Henschke Hill of Grace Eden Valleysome key sub- $20 budget wines, sales was also a noticeable large uptake of Shiraz which achieved $490.remained strong throughout May. The Wendouree cabernet and shiraz fromGrange surge continues, demand for Hill 2012 while, with their blends, it was the On the Top 10 Non-Penfolds/Henschkeof Grace is on the rise, Rockford sales early to mid-2000 vintages that appealed Hammer Prices list, the highest spotscontinue to impress and Wendouree, to our May buyers. were secured by a couple of well-that once contrary wine of the Australian known cabernets. A boxed bottle ofauction market, also continues to clear The famed 1998 vintage remains in 1996 Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Roadwell above expectation. vogue with good sales reported for Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon took Bowen Cabernet, Lindeman’s St George, out the number one position with a final Penfolds led the way with excellent Moss Wood Cabernet, Rockford Basket bid of $181, followed closely at $180 byclearances for the famed Bin 95 Grange Press and Wynns John Riddoch. Some a magnum of 2001 Mount Mary Quintetand Bin 707, along with the regular Bins have claimed this vintage is now fully Yarra Valley Cabernet. Come on shiraz,28, 389, 407 and St Henri. Another mature, but it looks like there’s still you’re slipping!noticeable result was keen bidding on a great deal of interest in it from ourGrange, including imperfect examples, buyers. With a final price of $450 thatfrom the 1960s. More stock please! quintessential old school claret - the With Oddbins’ imported category, it 1982 Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2me With Henschke premiums, our buyers was all about red and white Burgundy, Cru St Julien (level into next, cellar nickedwere still very interested in most vintages Tuscan Chianti Riservas, the odd and capsule) - headed the Top 10 Hammerof Hill of Grace but vendors be warned rarely seen Sassicaia and the always Prices, Imported Wines list. The next- they really do need to be in good impressive Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. two spots were claimed by a 2003condition. Keyneton Estate and Mount and 2002 Tenuta San Guido SassicaiaEdelstone from the 2000s both firmly A review of May’s Top 10 Auction Blegheri (the former with a minor cellarattracted buyer bidding. Performers lists and the Grange surge scuffed label) - both achieving $215. A was evident in their domination of the 2006 Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot Movers and shakers for May included Top 10 Hammer Prices, Australian Wine Noir, with screw cap, fetched $ 60.our large offering of Bowen Estate table - taking out all but one spot. Leadingwines from the ‘90s, which certainly the list at $ 900 was a 1966 Penfolds Bin Classic, old Australian fortified gemscaught the attention of buyers, as did a 95 Grange Shiraz (VHS, cellar stained comprised the bulk of May’s Top 10host of modern wine wonders like 2009 label, loose capsule), followed by a Hammer Prices, Fortified Wines &Greenock Creek Alice and Apricot, 2011 magnum of 1982 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Spirits list, although an old and relatively Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What66 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

wine investment & collectingunknown blended whisky shared first Finally, the Top 10 Fortified & Spirit and shiraz - all from makers whoseprize. The Taylor & Ferguson Ambassador Performers, Percentage Above Top End names are synonymous with quality inTwenty Five 25 yo Blended Whisky took of Guides list proved there’s life yet modern Australian wine. Yet Grangeline honours alongside a 1945 Penfolds in old Club ports! Two 1956 Penfolds remains at the head of the Classification,Grandfather Tawny Port ( badly cellar Club Tawny Ports - the first VHS, cellar defying alphabetical order - a reflectionstained label, torn capsule) - both scuffed and with a minor torn label and of its cornerstone position in the marketattracting final bids of $140 each. the second with a minor cellar nicked and its unique place in the story of label - went 38.2 and 16.9 per cent Australian wine. Onto the Top 10 Australian Performers, over the guides, respectively. For morePercentage Above Top End of Guides and information visit www.oddbins.com. The most expensive single wine ‘item’while normally this table is filled with the au. (All prices quoted are exclusive of sold by Langton’s in fiscal 2015 was aweird and wonderful from a bygone era - Buyer’s Premium.) 60-vintage Grange set (1951-2010) forMay’s line-up included some well-known $186,400 and the most expensive 750mlswines from recent vintages. Heading the LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS comprised a bottle of the experimentallist with 18.3 per cent above the guides, (PENFOLDS REPORT - JUNE) 1951 Bin I Grange Hermitage - whichwere two bottles of 2005 Hentley Farm Given the extraordinary success of fetched $46,600. Amazingly, when youThe Beast Shiraz (with wax capsules), Langton’s annual Penfolds-only auction consider that price, most of the ‘51 wasfollowed by three bottles of 2004 Murray this past June, it’s an appropriate time given away by Max Schubert, so keenStreet Vineyards Benno Barossa Valley to take an updated look at the extent to was he to promote his fledgling GrangeShiraz Mataro - in their original carton which Penfolds dominates the secondary project. In our listing of the Top 500- which sold for 13.3 percent above the wine market in Australia. As the market Langton’s Auction Prices for 2015 - allprice guides. emerged in the 1980s, Grange was its countries, all items in all sizes - Penfolds backbone - alone in the ‘Exceptional’ holds down 82 spots - 16.4 per cent of Interestingly, the Top 10 Imported Wine category (then called ‘Outstanding [A]’) the total, including the first 11 places.Performers, Percentage above Top End of the inaugural Langton’s Classification Of the top 20 sales, 14 were Penfolds.of Guides list - led by a 2009 Weingut in 1990. Inevitably, the category evolved Next are Henschke with three, DRC andPrager Klaus Smaragd Weissenkirchen and Grange was joined - first by Mount Le Pin with one each, and a ring-in - aWachau Riesling which went two per Mary Quintet and Henschke Hill of Grace set of Jimmy Watson Trophy Winnerscent over - also included two bottles of - and then, over the years, by another 18 1962-2009 - that fetched $11,650. But2009 Ferdinand Pieroth Brauneberger wines (making a total of 21) including wait - that set of ‘Jimmies’ includes threeJuffer Mosel Saar Ruwer Auslese chardonnay, riesling, pinot noir, cabernet more Penfolds wines, the 1965 and 1967Riesling - which sold in line with the price Granges and a 1963 Kalimna Cabernetguide. Has this once dubious brand finally Sauvignon. So let’s narrow the field andbecome respectable?6 September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 67

wine investment & collectinglook at the Top 500 auction prices for underpin the market. It’s becoming rare red wine producers have launchedsingle, 750ml bottles of Australian wine. at the same time as it gains greater similar public programs. The ClinicsHere, Penfolds streets the field with 158 international recognition as one of the instill secondary market confidence inlistings - 32 per cent of the total. Penfolds world’s finest wines of the 1971 vintage. the Penfolds brand by weeding out ‘bad’occupies 17 of the top 20 places, with It’s easy to forget that the destiny of bottles, usually the result of poor storagePara Ports from 1901, 1880 and 1878 a great wine lies in its consumption; conditions. Not unexpectedly perhaps,taking the other three. Moss Wood gets finally, it is not an antique to be looked Penfolds today has more Langton’sa look-in at 28, Chris Ringland/Three at, admired and endlessly traded. Classified wines than any other producer.Rivers at 33, Wynns at 34 and Yalumba There are ten: two ‘Exceptional’ and fourat 35. Henschke pops up for the first time Another important factor underpinning each in the ‘Outstanding’ and ‘Excellent’at 52. The increasingly rare Granges of Penfolds’ secondary market success is categories. Next is Henschke with a totalthe 1950s and early 1960s dominate the its Red Wine Recorking Clinic program. of four. With all this, it’s hardly surprisingtop 20, along with the legendary 1962 This service was established in 1991 that Langton’s, as the world’s leadingBin 60A ($8154) and the inaugural 1964 and is now offered around the world. marketplace for Penfolds in generalBin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, which has The ultimate in free, after-sales service, and Grange in particular, can mount ajumped 71 per cent in value, from $1496 it enables collectors to have Penfolds major auction each year dedicated toin 2012 to $5245 in 2015. reds 15 years and older opened and the products of this one producer, with tasted by a Penfolds winemaker and, table wine vintages dating back to the Other big movers for Penfolds in 2015 if in acceptable condition, topped up, early 1950s, even older fortifieds, andwere: 1960 Grange, up 36 per cent to recorked and certified via a signed now also a comprehensive range of white$2589 from $1632 in 2014; 1963 Grange, and dated back label. Owners get to wines. It’s a situation that seems unlikelyup 40 per cent to $2589 from $1533 in taste their old wines, so attending a to change any time soon. For all your2014; 1953 Grange Bin 2, up 40 per Clinic might also be considered the secondary market requirements, newscent to $23,300 from $13,900 in 2012; ultimate in having your (vinous) cake and and information - please visit langtons.1953 Grange Bin 9A, up 64 per cent to eating it too. The Clinic program quietly com.au. (All prices are per bottle, unless$15,145 from $5496 in 2002; and the underscores Penfolds reputation as the otherwise indicated, and include buyer’sbiggest mover of all, 1971 Grange, up producer of a number of the world’s most premium.) 95 per cent to $2098 from $886 in 2014. robust and consistently fine red wines,The rise of Grange 1971 demonstrates and in this context it might be wonderedhow, ultimately, quality and longevity why no others among the world’s great 38 38 is the number of days this wine spends on its skins in fermentation. Most wines are just 8 or IMPORTANT less. The extra 30 days of very slow fermentation increases the extraction and integration of skin DAYS tannins giving a greater depth of structure and lifting the savoury characteristics. The practicalities and costs of this process dictated that only two tonnes of grapes be fermented, and that means just 1536 bottles. 38 DAYS 2012 vintage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. It will cellar very well but if you are looking at a slow cooked leg of hogget perhaps you shouldn’t wait. Send us an email and we will let you know where you can buy 38 DAYS. [email protected] W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

Whether it’s down the road or across the globe - we move food & beverages, worry free.With real global capability, an ever-intensifying network and aggressive growth targets, we are perfectly positioned to help our customers deliver increasing volumes of their products into the hands of their customers Air and Ocean Warehousing Transport Supply Chain• Air and seafreight • Pick and pack • Nationwide and metro • Global visibility• Import and export • Hazardous substances • Full truck load and • Project logistics• Customs clearance • Inventory management • Supply chain analysis• Perishables • Food grade intermodal • EDI business solutions• Tanks • Dangerous goods• Trade faciliation warehousing • Wharf cartageYOUR PRODUCT DELIVERED MAINFREIGHT BULK TAKE YOUR PRODUCTS TO AROUND THE GLOBE LIQUIDS THE WORLDFrom source to destination with road, We understand the quality and With two thirds of Australian winesea and airfreight services. demands of wine and spirits reaching products now being sent overseas, the shelves on time. wine producers are finding that toLCL groupage consolidation, FCL & expand their business means takingbuyer consolidation for inbound and We use food grade tanks specific for that step to exporting. With productoutbound movements. the industry. These tanks are not used certification, more complex timeframes for any movements other than wine and and every country having uniqueOur customs brokerage teams manage spirits to ensure the strictest of hygiene importing requirements, Mainfreightgovernment requirements to get your standards. can help navigate through the complexwines in and out of the most dynamic international market.economies in the world in the time Both ISO tanks and flexi tanks areframes expected. available.AMERICAS ASIA AUSTRALIA EUROPE NEW ZEALAND facebook.com/mainfreight @Mainfreight in linkedin.com/company/mainfreight www.mainfreight.com

451 TASTED280 AWARDEDMAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATES TS Y R A H & S H I R A Z C H A L L E N G E XIThis is always an amazing tasting and this year proved to be no Deakin Estate Shingleback VBBAEULSYUTSEexception. With shiraz the hero red wine of the country it makes Australia Shiraz Red Knotsense to hold it here in Australia along with examples from France 2014 HHH McLaren Valeand other countries. Across all price ranges there is something A pretty and inviting Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2here for everyone. However, it is true that at the lower prices style with savoury Meaty characters to theyou have to look harder. Don’t expect barrel fermented gems at aromas and simple well- nose and a rich palatethe “two buck chuck” level, but there are a few worthy of the tag balanced cherry palate. with mouthfilling dark“lunch wines”. For medium priced wines expect world class value $8 fruit/blueberry flavourswhich is not achieved elsewhere. For flavour and price these are and some fine tannins.unmatched, and at the high priced pointy end these are truly world SHIRAZ $14.95class in terms of quality! $10-$15 McPherson VBBAEULSYUTSE 14 TASTED Wine Co. 4 AWARDED Curious SEA Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 Subdued nose; hints of berries and oak with a Only a few good wines respectable amount of here, showing good fruit dark fruits on the long depth for the price. The warm palate. Good wines that did not make drink. $14.99 the grade were eitherSHIRAZ & James Busby VBBAEULSYUTSE Jacobs Creek too tannic or lacked fruit Scarpantoni EstateBLENDS Big & Bold Classic South East quality. McLaren Vale ShirazUNDER $10 Australia Australia Shiraz 2014 HHH Shiraz 2015 HHHH 2015 HHH Inky black velvety12 TASTED Deep purple wine with A Sarsaparilla-like nose smooth wine that’s a5 AWARDED good depth and intensity and medium weight Taylors Promised good rendition of an old berry palate with decent Land South school Aussie shiraz.At this price the judges of dark berry fruits, tannin and good acidity. Australia Shiraz $13expected to at least see smoky oak and wrapped $9freshness of fruit which up in firm grippy tannins. Warburn Estate 2015 HHHH1/2half the wines in this Rumours South East Red currant, pastille,group didn’t deliver. Too 1-2 $4 Australia Shiraz jube-like aromas withmany wines were also Cabernet 2014 HHH SHIRAZ &overly sweet; possibly James Busby Nice herbaceous savoury overtones. Lots BLENDSa commercial thing. But Rich & Spicy aromas; mint evident. of fruit power to the 2015 $15-$20those that made the Australia VBBAEULSYUTSE Clean, slightly green well-balanced fleshygrade had good balance palate with a savoury palate, some good 11 TASTEDat the lighter end. Shiraz Cabernet touch. $4.70 spiciness and some 2014 HHH1/2 5 AWARDED Spicy fruit and dusty oak good acidity. 3-5 $13 on the nose and nice varietal characters on A mixed bag with the the lightweight palate. better wines showing Good drinking here. genuine fruit freshness 3-5 $4 without overdoing the oak.JUDGES - DAY 1 Marie Clay Wes Gilson Winemaker, Wolf Blass State Manager, Campbell Greer Wines. Judge at regional Vinosity Fine Chief Winemaker and shows over the past ten Wines, wholesaler Export Development years including Cairns, and distributor. Manager, McLaren Vale Small Winemakers Formerly Managing III Associates wines. (Stanthorpe), Riverland, and Director of the Wine Previously worked many others. Previously at Underground and as a winemaker at Lindemans Karadoc. Has Founder Cork Wine Rosemount, Boar’s vintaged in Tuscany Café. Rock, Haselgrove and & Burgundy. overseas at J.Lohr in Paso Robles.70 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tasting McPherson Wine Bellevue Estate SHIRAZ 2013 Co. MWC Central McLaren Vale Shiraz & OLDER Victoria Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 $15-$20 Mourvedre Meaty/BBQ-like 2015 HHH characters to the 9 TASTED Estery perfumed spicy nose with tonnes of 0 AWARDED red fruit aromas and surprisingly fresh and well-rounded, velvety, slightly sweet black Age did weary these! slightly meaty flavours. and red fruit flavours. These wines should $18.99 $19.99 have held together better. “They lacked SHIRAZ & Andrew Peace Wines freshness and we BLENDS Estate Swan Hill expected more,” said 2014 $15-$20 Victoria Shiraz one judge. 2014 HHH 27 TASTED Dark brooding bouquet SHIRAZ & 11 AWARDED and chewy palate. BLENDS The judges found these Good depth of fruit at 2015/2014 wines to be a step up the darker end of the $20-$25 from the previous group. spectrum. $18 But there was also a 27 TASTEDThorn-Clarke step up in oak flavours Blackstone Paddock Peter Lehmann 13 AWARDEDWines Sandpiper which was detrimental Barossa Shiraz Wines PortraitBarossa Shiraz 2015 to the balance of some 2014 HHHH Barossa Valley More consistencyHHHH1/2 of the wines. “Just Full-bodied wine with Shiraz 2014 HHH showing here acrossSavoury meaty aromas because you can afford some very good dark Jammy aromas with a the board. “We arewith slight floral-like lift. it doesn’t mean you ripe fruit characters, fragrant floral lift and starting to see moreDark sweet/savoury fruit should use it,” said one balancing oak and some tangy sweet/sour serious wines here withon the palate with good judge. acid and firm tannins cherry flavours. $18 structure and depthuse of oak, fresh acidity building nicely. and also a diversity ofand very firm tannins Shingleback Redcastle Heathcote regions starting to showwhich will resolve with Haycutters McLaren 3-5 $19.99 Shiraz 2014 HHH through,” noted onetime. $19 Vale Shiraz Subdued nose with nice judge. 2014 HHHH George Wyndham savoury hints. Good fruit Cedary oak sits Bin 555 Shiraz and tannin balance to Saltram 1859Hereford VBBAEULSYUTSE atop warm, spicy 2014 HHH1/2 the soft subtle palate. Barossa ShirazHeathcote boysenberry aromas. $18 2014 HHHH1/2 Well-rounded, balanced Very youthful liftedShiraz 2015 HHH palate. Nice freshness Meaty nose; subtle Shearer’s VBBAEULSYUTSE varietal aromas with nice of juicy fruit flavours. Sarsaparilla note. Hill Premium balance of vanilla oak.Youthful sweet berry $17.95 Medium weight cherry Lots of chocolaty oakbouquet and somewhat fruit palate with white Langhorne Creek characters on the palate Shiraz 2014 HHH layered with somesweet and simple palate pepper and spices Smells of fruit cake; nice good fruit and long firmwith slightly tart acidity. dominating. 3-5 tannins. $22.99$15 $15.99 peppery presence and an ‘honest’, savoury, Annie’s Lane The oak-dominated palate. Locals WatervaleThomas Goss Blaxland $18 Clare Valley ShirazMcLaren Vale Shiraz Vineyards VBBAEULSYUTSE 2014 HHHH2015 HHH Domain Roast meat bouquetOak tends to dominate Barossa Black Beresford Bell and lots of everythingthe dark blue and black Tongue Barossa Tower McLaren VBBAEULSYUTSE on the excellent vibrantlicoricey fruits and Vale Shiraz palate; fleshy dark fruits,has genuine powdery Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH generous tannins andtannins. $15 Dark fruit bouquet with good acidity. $22.99 subtle clove overtones. Subtle licorice note to the fruity aromas. Generous juicy fruit Rich layered oak-drivenAndrew Peace Wines flavours with good useWinemaker’s Choice of oak and acid. palate; good fruitWrattonbully Shiraz beneath. $18.992015 HHH 3-5 $16According to a judge it’s,“A big whack of vanilla Jacob’s Creekcustard”, on the nose Reserve Limestoneand a warm oaky palate. Coast Shiraz$18 2014 HHH1/2 Good varietal fruit intensity on the nose with slight meatiness. Rich, generous fruit/oak flavours and fine tannins. $17.99 September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 71

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIMorambro Creek Bird in Hand Two in Harcourt Valley SHIRAZ & Blackbilly McLarenJip Jip Rocks the Bush Mt Lofty Vineyards Sightings BLENDS Vale ShirazPadthaway Shiraz Ranges Shiraz Bendigo Heathcote 2013 & OLDER 2013 HHH2015 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2015 HHH $20-$25 Lots of oak on the noseToasty oak dominates Smells of red cherries, Menthol herbaceous and an elegant, finelythe nose and is chocolate and aromas and rich fleshy 15 TASTED textured, dark fruit palate.obvious on the creamy Sarsaparilla with good fruit-driven palate. Good 6 AWARDED Still very fresh. $23palate with perceived amount of juicy red fruit oak presence. Time!sweetness and good flavours packed in subtle $20 A mixed bag! “Too much Shingleback Daveydark fruit. 5+ oak. $20 fruit here; either left Estate Reserve$20.95 Cockfighter’s Ghost in the tank or barrel,” McLaren Vale Shiraz GMH South VBBAEULSYUTSE McLaren Vale Shiraz suggested one judge. 2013 HHH Australia 2014 HHH “Some good wines had Dark fruit aromas with Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 A subtlety of fruit and nicely textured tannins subtle oak support. Oak Savoury toasty oak oak to the nose and an that were neither too tending to dominate the aromas. Velvety ‘honest’ well-balanced, heavy or too light.” palate. $23.50 smooth, dark fruit palate finely textured palate. $22 has balance, some Sanguine Estate Paracombe Adelaide complexity and tonnes Pertaringa Progeny Heathcote Hills Shiraz Viognier of tannins. $20 Undercover McLaren Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 2012 HHH Vale Shiraz Nose has dark berry Meaty, earthy, licorice 2014 HHH fruit sweetness with a bouquet and bright juicy Tarry licorice aromas dash of pepper. Good flavours with interesting and rich oak-driven fruit intensity on palate oaky notes. $23 palate but has some with good use of oak. good dark fruit under SHIRAZ there. 3-5 $22 3-5 $24.95 2015 $25-30Totino Estate Metala Single Sanguine Estate 10 TASTEDAdelaide Hills Shiraz Vineyard Langhorne Progeny Heathcote 5 AWARDED2014 HHH1/2 Creek Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2A well-balanced wine Cabernet Sauvignon Subtle blackcurrant Starting to see somewith good thought given 2014 HHH aromas and a savoury good results withto the fruit use and nice A finely structured, chewy palate layered young wines showingwrap of sweet oak. velvety smooth wine with fleshy fruit, nutty nice vibrant fruit andEnjoyable old school dominated by oak oak and grippy tannins. balancing oak. “Thesestyle. $22.95 for now. Nice fruit were not trying to beAnvers Razorback underneath. $22.99 3-5 $24.95 better than the fruit isRoad Adelaide Hills capable of,” said oneShiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Betty + Max Clare Sanguine Estate Chain Of Ponds judge. “Others may haveFragrant oak bouquet Valley Shiraz Progeny Heathcote Grave’s Gate improved more by beingwith subtle florals. 2014 HHH Shiraz 2014 HHH Adelaide Hills Shiraz left in bottle beforeLovely vibrant freshness Slightly closed oaky An inky blend of licorice 2013 HHH release.”to the cherry/sweet oak and black fruit aromas Sweet and spicy redflavours. Drying finish. and very pleasant fruit fragrances. Finely$20 sweet/sour flavoured textured, well-balanced palate. $24.95 fleshy fruit palate. $20 nose; some fruit evident. Grippy palate with good fruit intensity. 3-5 $21.99JUDGES - DAY 2 Rebecca Kennedy Greg Tilbrook Currently Production Barossa based winemaking Andrew Locke Planning Manager consultant. Formerly senior Winemaker with with Fox Creek Wines. winemaker Watson Wine Rosemount Wines since Previously winemaker Group. Former winemaker 1998. Previously he was a with Accolade and senior at Wynns Coonawarra winemaker with Orlando winemaker at Boar’s winery for five years. Wyndham and De Bortoli Rock and Langhorne Previously winemaker at Wines. He has completed Creek Wineries. Has Amberley Estate, Margaret vintages in the US and extensive judging River for six years. Loire (France). In 1993 experience at capital city Completed a vintage in he attended the AWRI and regional wine shows. Languedoc, France. advanced assessment course.72 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tastingDog Ridge Shirtfront Three Dark Horses Mollydooker Thorn-Clarke Wines Thorn-Clarke WinesMcLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz The Boxer Eden Trail Eden Shotfire Barossa2015 HHHH1/2 2015 HHH1/2 Langhorne Creek Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2Fragrant juicy fruit Oak evident on the nose McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 HHHH Slight rhubarb/beetroot-pastille aromas leaning with lovely layers of soft 2014 HHHH1/2 Subdued bouquet like characters on thetowards the savoury fruit on the palate that Tarry leathery aromas; but there’s some nose. Attractive ripeside. Lots of oak on the shows some lovely firm lots of vanilla oak. Quite lovely varietal fruit fruit/oak palate withpalate but surrounded oak tannins. $25 sweet in the mouth with peeking through. Fresh lovely silky tannins. $25by some good varietal plenty of ripe blackberry boysenberry-like palate Taylors Jaramanfruit with slight ‘sinewy’ SHIRAZ & flavours that show a with peppery elements, Clare Valleytannins. Plenty of BLENDS savoury edge. Offers supple tannins and McLaren Vale Shirazfreshness. $25 2014 $25-30 great drinking. $28 sweet oak. $28 2014 HHH1/2 Beresford Classic Pepperjack Barossa Intense dark blackberryGumpara Wines 30 TASTED McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHHH aromas; a touch meaty.Victor’s Old Vine 18 AWARDED 2014 HHHH1/2 A brightly coloured wine Soft and round in theBarossa Valley Earthy bouquet with that smells a little like a mouth with very sweetShiraz 2015 HHHH Many well-made classy lovely blackberry and raspberry coulis and has ripe fruit flavours. $29Good bright jubey fruit wines that scored well. aniseed elements which a lovely firm fruit palate Harcourt Valleynose; subtle oak evident. The judges liked the follow through to the with plenty of sweet oak Vineyards Mt CamelLoads of fruit layers on range of styles here supple, fresh, blackberry tannins. $29.99 Range Heathcotethe rich generous palate, from the fruit-driven palate. An elegant Pepperjack Barossa Shiraz 2014 HHHfirm tannins and oak ones to the powerful classic style of shiraz. Shiraz Cabernet Lovely spiciness tosweetness. $25 ‘old school’, oak-driven $28.99 Sauvignon the fruity nose. Simple styles. “The best wines 2014 HHHH fruit-driven palate withTohu Hawkes Bay were the balanced Blackcurrant bouquet a touch of tar and niceSyrah 2015 HHHH ones,” said one judge. with a dash of pepper. oak. $25Huge lift of white Good varietal fruit Ross Hill Winespepper jumps out the Leconfield presence on the long, Jack’s Lot Orangeglass. More of the McLaren Vale Shiraz nicely textured palate Shiraz 2014 HHHpepper evident on the 2014 HHHHH with supple tannins. Uncomplicated leafy/fruit-driven palate with A ripe rustic nose showing $29.99 nutty aromas and bright,its pleasant spicy finish. a light floral lift and leading Penny’s Hill fresh, red fruit flavours$27.95 on to a big luscious palate Cracking Black on a simple palate. $25 with good intensity and Estate Vineyards Tempus Two CopperThe Wine Doctor depth of dark berries, McLaren Vale Shiraz Series Hunter ValleyBarossa Valley sweet chocolaty oak 2014 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2014 HHHShiraz 2015 HHH1/2 and lovely mouthcoating A vibrant mix of forest Earthy mushroomSmoky oak dominates tannins. $26 berry fragrances. Plenty characters to thethe nose; evidence of of chocolaty oak on the nose and good fruitdark fruit underneath. Taylors palate; nice persistence expression on the palate;More oak on the full Winemakers Project of dark fruit flavours. $25 some mintiness. $25 Clare Valley Shiraz Talbots Block The Grant Burge Wines 2014 HHHH1/2 Prince Sevenhill Miamba Barossa A lovely, very well-made, Clare Valley Shiraz Valley Shiraz deep ruby wine with a 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH vibrant fresh fruit nose. Old school style with Very oaky nose with Lots of oak on the a big chunky oak- hints of berries. Similar palate, but it’s good oak dominated nose and characters echoed balanced by a nice level a very, very ripe fruit on the simple palate. of dark fruit flavours. $25 palate with slightly $26.99 grainy tannins. $25 Kurtz Family Wolf Blass Gold Tenafeate Creek Vineyards Boundary Label Barossa Shiraz Basket Press One Row Barossa Valley 2014 HHHH1/2 Tree Hill Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHH Big purple wine that 2014 HHH1/2 Soft in the mouth with “over delivers”, according A well-made wine. plenty of spicy berry to one judge. Huge Perfumed pot pourri flavours and smells of presence of jubey fruit fragrances with good berry conserve. $28 on the nose and a persistence of perfumedfleshy flavoursome chewy masculine style berry flavours andpalate. 3-5 $25 of palate with gentle chocolaty tannins. $25 peppery notes. $28 September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 73

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XISHIRAZ 2013 Peter Lehmann SHIRAZ Burnbrae Wines Credaro Kinship& OLDER Wines Hill & Valley 2015/2014 Single Vineyard Margaret River$25-30 Barossa Valley $30-$35 Mudgee Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHH 2014 HHHH A classic old school style17 TASTED A sound well-made wine 20 TASTED An attractive minty of shiraz with an attractive8 AWARDED with sweet fruit and 11 AWARDED berry nose with a nutty oak nose and oaky some forest floor-like peppery lift. Simple, palate but with plenty ofThe judges found that characters. $25 A mixed result; some supple, slippery palate intense fruit. $32generally these wines Scarpantoni Estate good scores and some with good length of dark Coriole Estateshowed overripe fruit Old Vine California wines that lacked the red fruit flavours. $30 McLaren Vale Shirazand as a result are Road McLaren Vale fruit weight for the Bittern Estate 2014 HHHageing quickly. “A few Shiraz 2013 HHH price structure. Again, Mornington Caramelly, blackberryalso showed harsher Aged leathery wine with too many wines with Peninsula Shiraz aromas with spicy notestannins,” added one cedary oak notes and overripe fruit that had 2015 HHH1/2 and upfront spicy savouryjudge. However these some very nice jammy fallen away dramatically. A very young and very fruit flavours. $30offered better drinking fruit. $25 “The better wines had simple wine with lovely Hand Craftedat this age and price Peter Lehmann quality winemaking, less fresh lifted berry fruit and by Geoff Hardythan the lower priced Wines Futures oak and more balance.” attractive creamy oak McLaren Vale Shirazexamples. Barossa Valley with soft tannins. $30 2014 HHH Shiraz 2013 HHH Wolf Blass A very ripe tarry oldWolf Blass Gold Light minty mixed berry Blass Noir Barossa Majella Coonawarra school style of shiraz.Label Adelaide Hills bouquet and some very Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Plenty of sweet fruitShiraz 2013 HHHH ripe flavours. Old school 2014 HHHH1/2 Slightly menthol-like and good oak. Very wellA very drinkable wine style. $26 A well-made generous fragrances and a full made. $30that shows a good hit of d’Arenberg The Wild wine with an intense, flavoured sweet dark Mr Riggs Piebaldsweet varietal fruit but Pixie McLaren Vale inky/aniseed bouquet. berry palate with McLaren Vale Shirazit is not overdone and Shiraz 2013 HHH Plenty of oak on the nice chocolaty oak 2014 HHHnicely supported by the Confectionery fruit palate but the mass of elements. $30 Very ripe dark berrytight oak. $28 aromas with a dash of upfront fruit with spicy bouquet and perfectly licorice. Grippy tannic dark berry fruit holds it in ripe blackberry palateAngas Plains Estate palate has savoury fruit place. $30 with hints of spices. $30PJ’s Langhorne flavours. $29 Rockcliffe ThirdCreek Shiraz Settlers Ridge Artwine The Kelly Reef Great Southern2012 HHHH Organic Margaret Surrender Single Shiraz 2014 HHHFloral fruit fragrances River Shiraz Vineyard Clare Subtle savoury aromaslaced with some sweet 2012 HHH Valley Shiraz and spicy savourynotes. The soft palate is A huge old school style 2014 HHHH flavours. Lots of oak andfull of very ripe rich fruit with developed nose Earthy, forest floor, soft tannins. $30and offers lovely drinking and palate layered with mushroomy aromasnow. $25 fruit and oak. $25 and simple sweet mix of rhubarb, beetrootByrne Vineyards and blackberryClare Valley Shiraz flavours. Good tannin2013 HHH1/2 persistence. $30Tarry earthy aromas witha touch of dark berries Blaxland Vineyardsand similar characters Reserve Barossaechoed on the long Shiraz 2014 HHHHpersistent palate. $28 Lifted oaky bouquet with light spiciness underneath and intense sweet fruit palate with chunky licorice notes. Good use of oak. $30JUDGES - DAY 3 Angus Wardlaw Richard Mattner Winemaker at Kirrihill and Winemaker Pepperjack Adam Eggins his own brand, Brothers in the Barossa Valley. Senior winemaker for at War. Previously at Previously winemaker at Taylors Wines. Was Dorrien Estate. Associate Wolf Blass and Saltram Dux of Oenology judge at Barossa and wineries. Has vintaged at Roseworthy. Clare Valley wine shows. in Napa at the Beringer Has judged at the winery. Associate judge Canberra, Ballarat, at Langhorne Creek. Clare and Adelaide wine shows.74 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tasting 2015 GOLDINTERNATIONAL TROPHYSeptember/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 75

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XISHIRAZ 2013 & Delluva WinesOLDER Barossa Syrah$30-$35 2012 HHH Earthy developed style20 TASTED with slightly leathery aromas and a palate that7 AWARDED still shows some fruit. $30 Neil Hahn CatharinaGood wines were Barossa Shirazfew and far between 2012 HHHhere! Too many tired, Prune-like charactersdeveloped wines. on the nose and quite aThe judges wondered developed, but simple,whether the 2013 tarry fruit palate. $34.95vintage is promising tobe one that is not ageing Morambro Creek Shingleback The SHIRAZ & Brash Vineyardwell. “These wines Padthaway Shiraz Gate McLaren Vale BLENDS Single Vineyardlacked freshness and the 2013 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHHH 2015/2014 Margaret Rivertannins are drying out,” Ripe jammy bouquet Leafy spearmint $35-$40 Shiraz 2014said one judge. with hints of licorice. characters obvious on HHHH1/2 Intense oak-driven the earthy/briary fruit 16 TASTED Smells like sweet cherry flavours with some nose and very good 11 AWARDED cookies! The palate is ripe sweet fruity notes upfront sweet and spicy long and seamlessly and nice solid tannins. berry/licorice palate. A strong class that balanced with excellent $34.95 $34.95 the judges found had intensity of spicy fruit Little Brampton a lot more freshness, flavours, lemony- Gateway Clare fruit intensity, length like acidity and good Valley Shiraz and better handled persistent tannins. $35 2013 HHH1/2 oak. “Good colour and McLaren Vale Lots of spicy oak and freshness is a dead III Associates a palate offering good giveaway for a good The Descendant of mouthfilling savoury/spicy wine,” noted one judge. Squid Ink McLaren flavours with slightly “Now we are starting to Vale Shiraz grippy tannins. $30 see consistency.” 2014 HHHH1/2 Nose is a lovely balanceSchubert Estate The Anderson Hill The of mixed berries, someGosling Barossa Black Cat Lenswood herbal characters and aValley Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHH savoury edge. Velvety2013 HHHH Lovely cedary oak nose smooth in the mouthA lovely, seamlessly and crisp plum fruit with spicy dark berrybalanced, shiraz that palate nicely supported flavours, chewy oak andhas plenty of ripe by soft tannins. $30 tannic finish. $35licorice-like fruit,chocolaty oak and finepowdery tannins. $30JUDGES - DAY 4 Drew Noon MW Peter Douglas Owner and winemaker Winemaker for Koonara Chris Hatcher of Noon Wines, a Wines. Formerly chief Chief winemaker for specialist boutique winemaker for Wynns Wolf Blass Wines, part red winemaker. Coonawarra. A Bachelor of Treasury Estates, and Specialising in of Agricultural Science formerly Foster’s Group, cabernet, shiraz and in Oenology, he has Beringer-Blass Australia grenache. completed more than 20 for the past 10 years. vintages. Peter has been Senior judge at Perth, an associate judge at Sydney, Adelaide and the Griffith and Canberra Brisbane wine shows. wine shows.76 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tastingZonte’s Footstep Sew & Sew 92Hills Are Alive Adelaide Hills SyrahAdelaide Hills Shiraz 2014 HHH1/22015 HHHH Earthy and savoury onIntense spicy berry the nose with a slightbouquet with a touch of eucalypt edge. The firmearthiness. Lovely mix of grippy palate has softred and black fruits and minty fruit flavours. $35chocolate/mocha oakflavours. $35 Parous McLaren ValeWhistler Wines Shiraz MataroShiver Down My 2014 HHHSpine Barossa Valley Cough lolly-likeShiraz 2014 HHHH aromas and a racyJammy dark fruit palate showing goodfragrances showing hints persistence of prune-likeof smoky oak. Lovely fruit. $35soft, sweet, fruit-drivenpalate with vibrant drying Sandalford Estatetannins. $35 Reserve MargaretSanguine Estate River ShirazInception Heathcote 2014 HHHShiraz 2014 HHHH A bright crisp lifted wineA lovely intensity of with fresh sweet varietalblackberry/red currant fruit, good acid andfruit characters on both gentle oak. $35the nose and building upalong the entire length Saddler’s Creekof the palate. $39.95 BluegrassZonte’s Footstep Langhorne CreekBaron Von Nemesis Shiraz 2014 HHHBarossa Shiraz A spicy fruit bun of a2015 HHH1/2 nose with some lovelyPerfumed blackberry upfront, lively, spicy, redaromas with a thick, berry flavours. $36chunky, sweet, darkberry palate and SHIRAZ &layers of fine powdery BLENDStannins. $35 2013 & OLDERBird in Hand Mt $35-$40Lofty Ranges Shiraz2014 HHH1/2 21 TASTEDVery ripe berry 16 AWARDEDcharacters on the slightlycharry nose with intense Finally some winesblackberry flavours built for ageing! Hereand nice vanilla oak to we see both qualitybalance. $35 and consistency across the bracket. “There is great balance of oak here, whilst still being respectful to juicy vibrant fruit,” said one judge.JUDGES - DAY 4Peter Simic www.latitude34wineco.comEditor/publisher WinestateMagazine. More than 35 years’experience in the wine industry.Formerly founding publisher of thefirst US colour wine magazine,manager of the SA WineInformation Bureau, and wineeducator with Regency College,in SA. September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 77

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIPepperjack Certified Saltram Mamre Millbrook Winery Talbots Block The Mollydooker BlueSouth Australia Brook Barossa Estate Perth Hills Sultan Sevenhill Eyed Boy McLarenShiraz Cabernet Shiraz 2012 Shiraz Viognier Clare Valley Shiraz Vale ShirazSauvignon HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 2014 HHHHH2013 HHHH1/2 A ‘charming’ wine that’s Dark earthy/savoury A rich and generous This wine has, accordingA complex, rich, sweet rich with an opulence of blackcurrant bouquet ‘more-ish’ style with a to one judge, “Greatand scented blackcurrant blackberry fruit. Good with a powerful oak complex layered nose flow and form. It’sfruit with those same depth and generosity punch to the palate and and mouthfilling spicy still a baby but it’slovely sweet scented of flavours on a nicely a great mouth-watering forest fruit flavours. $36 one to watch”. Lovelycharacters following layered palate with long, tannic drive. $35 rich concentration ofthrough on the long juicy even, mouth-watering James Haselgrove Chain Of Ponds The blackberry fruit shinespalate with a lovely line tannins. $37.99 Futures McLaren Ledge Adelaide Hills through the mass ofof tannins. $35.99 Sanguine Estate Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 oak. $49Saltram Mamre Inception Heathcote 2009 HHHH Spicy dark fruit aromas Haselgrove WinesBrook Barossa Shiraz 2012 “Shows the complexity with a dash of black Catkin McLarenShiraz 2013 HHHH1/2 and richness of this pepper. Fresh crunchy Vale ShirazHHHH1/2 Aromatic blackcurrant vintage,” said one judge. palate with lush juicy 2014 HHHH1/2Charry chocolaty notes bouquet with a complex Savoury earthy aromas flavours and grainy Lovely spicy licoriceon the nose mingling oak appeal. Fresh and and sweet palate with tannins. $38 characters to the darkwith the blackberry complex in the mouth classy tannins. $38 fruit nose. Palate hasfruit. Rich, complex and with good length of red James Haselgrove Sanguine Estate generosity, volume andgenerous palate with fruit flavours layered Futures McLaren Inception Heathcote persistence. “Lots togood presence of dark with a lovely line of Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 love here,” enthused onefruit flavours layered tannins. $39.95 2008 HHHH Aromas of bright berry judge. Good depth ofwith chalky tannins. An evolving savoury fruit and charry oak flavour. $40$37.99 style with earthy with rich brooding fruit chocolaty aromas and flavours, lingering acidityKopparossa Estate Shearer’s Hill a generous fleshy, and grippy tannins.Coonawarra Shiraz Prestige Langhorne chocolaty/coffee palate $39.952012 HHHH1/2 Creek Shiraz with velvety tannins. $38Rich enticing bouquet 2013 HHHH 2 Mates McLaren Millbrook Winerythat’s quite savoury and Mix of chocolate and Vale Shiraz Estate Perth Hillscomplex with a huge plums with some 2013 HHH1/2 Shiraz Viognierbrooding concentration savouriness. The Tarry chocolaty aromas 2013 HHHof flavours on the long powerful oak palate has with a minty touch. A big oak-driven winenicely textured palate. great texture, presence Charry oak on the with cedary characters“Needs taming,” said and persistence. $35 palate overpowers on the nose and a hotone judge. $35 Lindemans Reserve the fruit for now. Nice ‘full throttle’ palate. $35 Shiraz Bin 1300 tannin length. $35 Hunter Valley Shiraz Forester Estate 2013 HHHH Home Block Herbal and spicy on the Margaret River nose with a little heat. Shiraz 2012 HHH Silky smooth in the Spicy lifted nose with mouth with a generous an earthy savouriness. mellow flow of delicate Solid black fruit palate flavours. $39.99 with very subtle use of oak. $37 SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2015/2014 $40-$50 25 TASTED 20 AWARDED A very strong class with lots of recommended wines. “These are built for ageing and many will be even better in a few years’ time,” suggested one judge.78 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tastingFoxeys Hangout Peos Estate Four MEET DIS&COVERMornington Aces Manjimup TASTEPeninsula Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHHH2015 HHHH1/2 Blackcurrant nose with 24-26 FEBSimple yet concentrated a bright violet-like lift 2017fresh fruit fragrances and a youthful ‘brute’ ofand an elegant palate a palate with loads of SOU T H A US T R A L I A’Svibrant with red fruit potential. Needs time to BEST IN THEflavours and showing a evolve properly. $40nice layering of tannins She-Oak Hill Old HEART OF THE CITYwith a high level of Vine Reserveacidity. $45 Heathcote ShirazRockcliffe Single 2014 HHHHSite Great Southern A wonderful powerfulShiraz 2014 wine with a complexHHHH1/2 concentration of plumBig inky shiraz with fruit and spicy oak withintense complexity soft velvety tannins.of blackberry with Needs time. $40savoury notes. Wairau RiverExcellent palate; great Reserveflavour concentration Marlboroughand powerful grippy Syrah 2014 HHHHtannins. Needs years to A rich concentrationemerge. $45 of perfumed red fruit919 Reserve aromatics and a classyCollection Riverland palate with great flavoursShiraz 2015 HHHH concentration and overallA bright lift of presence. $40blueberries and violets Grant Burge Wineson the nose and a juicy Filsell Barossa Valleydepth and presence of Shiraz 2014 HHHHfruit flavours with mouth Brooding forest fruitpuckering tannins. $42 fragrances with bright perfumed violet lift. Fleshy fruit palate with great drive and persistence and good tannins. $42.99 Domaine Asmara 18O Producers 3 Days 1 Roof Reserve Heathcote Shiraz 2014 HHHH BOOKINGS Great varietal fruit purity FOR 2017 and concentration NOW OPEN here just needs time to develop complexity. Lifted aromas and a velvety palate. $45Tamburlaine Organic Zonte’s Footstep Z To BookWines Reserve Force McLaren ValeOrange Syrah Shiraz Petite Sirah 08 8210 67742015 HHHH 2014 HHHH [email protected] red fruit aromatics Lifted blackberry bouquetand a youthful and with savoury notes. CELL A RDOORFEST IVA L.CO Mprimary fruit palate with Lovely palate that focuses ADELAIDE CONVENTION CENTREelegant tannins. Needs on varietal fruit purity.time. Has great promise Lovely silky tannins.for the future. $44 Needs time. $49.95 K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Spicy earthy bouquet with oak in the background. Long velvety palate with a delicate expression of red fruit flavours. $40 September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 79

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIPertaringa Over The Whistler Wines Paxton Jones Block Wolf Blass Grey Reillys RCVTop McLaren Vale Estate Barossa Single Vineyard Label McLaren Pressings ClareShiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz Valley ShirazAn appealing wine 2014 HHH 2013 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHHevolving nicely and Dark berry nose with Great depth and power “A complete wine.” Evolving savouryshowing great depth and spicy oak savouriness. to the spicy dark fruit Deep crimson hues complexity to thecomplexity with the firm Palate shows charm, bouquet with a delicious with lovely depth and nose and some spicytannins ensuring a long character and and very generous palate concentration of fruit/ complexity on thelife. $40 persistence. $40 showing some gorgeous oak aromas and a juicy soft palate that’s fruit and bacon bone-like complex palate. Great underscored by theSaddler’s Creek SHIRAZ & savouriness. $40 character and evolving grippy tannins. $45Ryan’s Reserve BLENDS beautifully. $45 Wolf Blass GreyVanessa’s Vineyard 2013 & OLDER Jeanneret Wines Label McLaren ValeHunter Shiraz $40-$50 Stand & Deliver Shiraz 2013 HHHH2014 HHH1/2 Single Vineyard A rich, complex, andMedium-bodied style 29 TASTED Clare Valley ‘complete’ winewith a dark fruit bouquet 23 AWARDED Shiraz 2013 HHHH smelling of the forestand big velvety palate Inky tarry nose; still with hints of bacon andwith a generous Another very solid closed, with wonderful brooding fruit flavoursconcentration of ripe class of excellent palate weight and great with silky tannins. $45juicy flavours. $40 wines that will age concentration of pureLogan Ridge of well. “A more up and fruit flavours layered withTears Altitude 564M down result,” according tannins and oak. $40Mudgee Shiraz to one judge. “With2014 HHH1/2 many well-made, well- K1 by Geoff HardyA rich and well-balanced structured and complete Adelaide Hillsstyle of shiraz and wines and those that Shiraz 2013 HHHHevolving some lovely lacked that intensity or “The power and thecomplexity and showing ‘completion’.” glory,” noted one judge.tight, upfront tannins. $45 Black olive aromas andLogan Ridge of forest floor flavours withTears Altitude 870M lingering acidity andOrange Shiraz elegant tannins. $402014 HHH1/2Very appealing, lifted Pertaringa Schild Estate Benviolet-like fragrances Over The Top Schild Reservewith a medium-bodied, McLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Valleyearthy, red fruit palate 2013 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHHHthat has good tannic A lovely long, layered An inky concentration ofgrip. $45 and balanced wine plum and prune aromas. with lifted aromatics of A rich flavoursomeWicks Estate C.J. violets on the chocolaty palate, beautifully Parous BarossaWicks Adelaide Hills nose. The palate is textured and layered Valley ShirazShiraz 2014 HHH1/2 powerful and fleshy with with silky tannins. $40 2012 HHHHA charming and very lots of black fruit. Needs Mount Avoca A good solid wine withapproachable wine time. $40 Limited Release an earthy nose that hasdeveloping layers and Grant Burge Wines Old Vine Pyrenees herbal notes evolving.complexity with silky Balthasar Eden Shiraz 2013 HHHH Solid palate, slightlytannins and lingering Valley Shiraz A rich classy number green line underneathacidity. $45 2013 HHHH1/2 with earthy barnyard-like and silky tannins. $40 Masses of oak here characters to the nose Reillys RCVRoss Hill Wines Domaine Asmara yet this is still a very and lovely fruit weight Pressings ClarePinnacle Series Reserve Heathcote appealing wine with on the poised, well- Valley ShirazOrange Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHHHH great aroma generosity structured palate. $43.95 2012 HHHH2014 HHH A vibrant deep red and a lingering, weighty, Blue Pyrenees Well-integrated wineNose has a lightness to wine with a bright chocolaty palate with Estate Section One with shy, but appealing,it with a wonderful silky blackcurrant bouquet; good line of acid. $42.99 Pyrenees Shiraz aromas and a sweetfeel to a palate layered some olives and some Mount Avoca 2013 HHHH concentration of flavourswith flavour. $40 violets. Impressive Limited Release Subtle inky aromas layered with long chalky purity and concentration Malakoff and lovely sweet fruit tannins. $45 of varietal fruit flavours Pyrenees Shiraz palate with good flavour with a brooding tannin 2013 HHHH1/2 concentration and rich, structure. $45 A pleasant earthy beautifully textured, undertone to the pure layers of tannins. $45 perfumed fruit nose and a huge, seamlessly balanced palate with a good mineral-like line and chalky tannins. $43.9580 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tastingCasella Limited Peter Lehmann Old Pietro D’OrsaRelease McLaren Wines 8 Songs would be proud!Vale Shiraz Barossa Valley2010 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHH World’s Greatest ShirazA wine with great appeal Wonderfully appealing $50 to $75 & Top 5 overallthat shows, according chocolaty aromas andto one judge. “Layers of classy length to the Winestate World’s Greatest Shirazlove!” Lovely fruit in the complex oak palate. $45 Challenge 2016savoury spectrum andgood tannins. $45 SHIRAZ 97/100Berton Vineyards $50-$60The Bonsai Eden James Halliday 2017 Australian Wine CompanionValley Shiraz 31 TASTEDCabernet 23 AWARDED Heathcote Grand Terroir Major Trophy2013 HHH1/2 (Highest quality over 6 years)Complex brooding An excellent, but aaromas with a violet-like mixed, class. “Good Heathcote Wine Show 2015intensity and a complex, purity of fruit andlayered palate with a tannins,” said one www.sanguinewines.com.ausilky mouthfeel. $40 judge. “But also some M: + 61 488 008 339Alkoomi Icon Jarrah wines lacked vibrancyFrankland River whilst others, built for E: [email protected] 2010 HHH1/2 ageing, were not quite China Importer:A harmoniously balanced together.” Overall lots ofwine that shows great concentrated fruit; to be 上海葡睿酒业有限公司poise and has excellent expected at this price. 地址：沪太路 671 号 213 室purity of varietal fruit 电话：021-5609 3200expression. $45 电邮：[email protected] PlainsEstate Emily CrossLanghorne CreekShiraz 2009 HHH1/2A great wine with lotsof charm and plenty oflength and showing thesweetness characterizedby the 2009 vintage. $40Molly’s Cradle WinesCradle McLaren ValeShiraz 2013 HHHA spicy, savoury andherbal bouquet with asoft, plush and simpleplum palate. $40Wicks Estate C.J. Sanguine EstateWicks Adelaide Hills D’Orsa HeathcoteShiraz 2013 HHH Shiraz 2014 HHHHHA well-made, cool The judges found thisclimate, shiraz. Evolving a wine that was hardtobacco leaf aromas to fault. It has purity,and herbal notes on the poise and complexity.palate. $45 Red currant aromas andBlue Pyrenees chocolaty black fruitEstate Richardson flavours with slightlyReserve Pyrenees dried fruit notes. $59.95Shiraz 2012 HHHBlackberry and violets onthe nose and a long well-balanced palate. Ready fordrinking now. $45 September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 81

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIMcGuigan Personal Wolf Blass Brown Wolf Blass BrownReserve Hunter Label Classic Label ClassicValley Shiraz McLaren Vale McLaren Vale2014 HHHH1/2 Clare Valley Barossa Langhorne CreekLifted fruit-of-the-forest Valley Shiraz Barossa Valleyaromas, slightly closed 2013 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2012with more of those “A joyful expression HHHH1/2characters on the long, of shiraz.” Bright lifted Complex expressionsolid, well-structured black olive and berry of some very classypalate. Elegant tannins fragrances and great varietal aromas. A long,and lingering acid. $50 palate with excellent taut palate with classic fruit purity and drive. lines and really sharp Needs 5-10 years! $50 acidity. Just needs time to evolve. $50 Kaesler The Bogan Antiquarian Sanguine Estate Gumpara Wines Barossa Valley Single Vineyard D’Orsa Heathcote Mader Reserve Shiraz 2013 Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2013 Barossa Valley HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH1/2 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2014 HHHH An inviting, complex “An oaky monster but all A rich but elegant wine A dark plum nose with and slightly perfumed class.” Gorgeous use of with slightly pungent earthy undertones and nose with savoury very chocolaty oak, some savoury aromas a fleshy persistence of elements. Upfront grippy great blackcurrant/dark and enticingly rich rich concentrated fruit tannic palate with good plum fruit. Nice layered concentration of flavours. flavours layered with presence of classy tannins. Has balance and Generously textured charry oak. $50 blackcurrant flavours. $50 richness. $59 palate with a silky tannin finish. $59.95 Kings of kangaroo ground “Artisans of fine handcrafted wine” • We craft all our wine, vine to bottle • Small batches of pure, natural wine • Eco friendly vineyard & winery practices • Pesticide free, vegan compliant Quality varietals from the Yarra Valley & Heathcote Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet & Shiraz 15 Graham Road, Kangaroo Ground 3097 Australia T: +61 3 9712 0666 E: [email protected] W: www.kkg.com.au82 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tastingMcLaren Vale III Pepperjack Scotch Gumpara Wines Sanguine EstateAssociates Squid Fillet Graded Mader Reserve D’Orsa HeathcoteInk Estate Grown McLaren Vale Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHHMcLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHHH A classy, nicely evolvingShiraz 2014 HHHH Hints of violets on the Mulberry fragrances wine. “All good!” RichA massive but very dark fruit nose. Beautiful with a complex spicy/ aromatics and a palatewell-made wine that just palate ‘shape’ with good savoury lift. A soft juicy with good weight, depthneeds more time. Plums flavour concentration palate offering a great and concentration ofand cherries on the nose and some slightly drying mouthful of delicious primary fruit. $59.95and rich flavoursome tannins. $50 sweet fruit flavours. $50palate. $55 Wangolina Spectrum Anvers The Warrior Beresford EstateKimbolton Wines The Mt Benson Shiraz Adelaide Hills McLaren ValeRifleman Langhorne 2013 HHHH Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2Creek Shiraz A richness of chocolate Shiraz 2012 HHHH Intense concentration of2013 HHHH and coffee on the nose. Ribena and chocolate plums and violets on theAppealing blue fruit Beautiful oak on the characters on the nose nose and a bright vibrantaromas; generous oak flavoursome, layered and a powerful tannic blackberry palate. Needssitting on top. Soft palate. Slight greenness palate with lovely hit of more time. $50elegant palate with underneath. $50 varietal flavours. “Needsgenerous mouthfilling St Hugo Barossa another 5-10 years.” $55 Mr Riggs Mr.flavours and silky Valley Shiraz McLaren Valetannins. $50 2013 HHHH Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 A tight, classy, well-made Spicy fragrance with an wine built to age with Shingleback D Block appealing mintiness. clean lines and impressive Reserve McLaren Nicely layered palate concentration of Vale Shiraz with minty chocolate blackcurrant-like fruit with 2012 HHHH flavours and chewy minerally notes. $51.99 Young, vibrant, lifted, tannins. $50 fruit fragrances and a tight, elegant, cool climate palate with lingering mouth-watering acidity. Needs time. $55 Estate Grown Family Owned Exceptional cool climate wines from the Eden Valley, Barossa. www.edenhall.com.au see us atthe Hong Kong Wine Fair on Australia Display September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 83

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIThe Blackwood Sir SHIRAZ Taylors St Andrews Paracombe Harcourt ValleyHenry Blackwood $60-$70 Clare Valley Shiraz Somerville Adelaide Vineyards Old VineValley Shiraz 2013 HHHH1/2 Hills Shiraz Bendigo Shiraz2014 HHH1/2 22 TASTED A complex nose layered 2010 HHHH 2014 HHHEvolved complex 17 AWARDED with bright black fruit and Shy, delicate, spicy fruit Slightly herbal touch tobarnyardy aromas and Some contenders and vanilla oak aromas. The aromas and a lovely the cherry nose and abig brooding tannins on some pretenders! The long complex palate has light palate that has fine simple palate thatthe palate but needs judges expected more. great depth and diversity great presence and has poise and class. $60another few years in the Some needed more time of flavours with richly drive with good fruit/oakcellar. $50 while others already had textured tannins. $65 integration. $69 Saddler’s CreekGumpara Wines too much time. The ‘14s Poole’s Rock Post Forest Hill Vineyard Reserve LanghorneMader Reserve had the most consistent Office Hunter Valley Block 9 Mount Creek ShirazBarossa Valley vibrancy, the ‘13s were Shiraz 2014 HHHH Barker Shiraz 2013 HHHShiraz 2013 HHH mixed and the ‘12s and A long, tight and still 2013 HHH1/2 Blue/red fruit aromasWell-made, very tannic older had some offering slightly closed pure Appealing complexity with pine needle notes.savoury/cedary wine. good drinking. varietal. Cherry stone and and depth on the nose. A Interesting spicy palateSimply needs another blueberry aromas and tight palate that has it all; with a lingering finish. $655-10 years to evolve. $50 Sidewood Estate cherry berry flavours with loads of fruit, spicy oakPepperjack Mappinga Adelaide delicate tannins. $60 and fine tannins. $60 The Old Faithful TopPorterhouse Graded Hills Shiraz Thorn-Clarke Wines The Colonial Estate of the Hill McLarenLanghorne Creek 2013 HHHHH William Randell Exile Barossa Shiraz Vale ShirazShiraz 2013 HHH Inky shiraz with lifted, Barossa Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 2012 HHHA shy, delicate, earthy/ perfumed, floral fruit 2014 HHHH Touches of tobacco Tight restrainedolive nose. Balanced fragrances. Bright Dark inky wine with on the green herbal perfumed bouquet withpalate with minerally mouth-watering palate, spicy oak characters nose. Minty chocolaty layers of integrated spicytexture and silky nicely structured with to the nose and lovely palate with long velvety fruit/oak flavours. $60tannins. $50 excellent depth and character to the long tannins with a lingeringMalone Wrattonbully concentration of forest tight palate. Needs time finish. $60 SHIRAZ &Shiraz 2008 HHH fruit and red currant to emerge. $60 BLENDSBright fruit aromas; flavours. Time! $60 Metala Black Label Francesco Reserve $70-$80a touch porty which Paulmara Estates Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2follows through on to Syna Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHHH Nose has layers of 21 TASTEDthe plush palate. $50 2014 HHHH1/2 Tight restrained floral evolved coffee/chocolate 15 AWARDED A wine with dark, dense fruit fragrances and a aromas with more layers red hues and black fruit long classy palate with presenting on the palate. A big divergence of aromas with savoury layers of forest fruits and “Needs decanting.” styles from the big and edge. Loads of red fruit violets and layered with $69.99 rich traditional styles to characters on the palate silky tannins. $64.99 The Old Faithful Top the more lean unripe with mouth-watering Penny’s Hill of the Hill McLaren ones. Some tried to lift tannins. A very good Footprint Estate Vale Shiraz the flavours with excess classic shiraz. $60 Vineyards McLaren 2010 HHH1/2 oak treatment. The Vale Shiraz Slightly closed, judges thought perhaps 2014 HHHH restrained style; winemakers were trying Rich vibrant blackcurrant needs more time. to build power to justify bouquet. Loads of black Chocolaty nose with the price. fruits on the grippy medicinal notes. Fleshy tannic palate. “Hard to flavoursome palate. $60 Annie’s Lane Copper fault,” said one judge. Trail Clare Valley Just needs time. $65 Shiraz 2014 HHHHH Delluva Wines Intense sweet berry Sandstone Barossa fruit aromas seamlessly Shiraz 2013 HHHH entwined with spicy oak. A complex wine with The palate is rich and earthy chocolaty balanced. Great depth aromas and a rich of oak flavours but also concentration of fruit some fruit there. Nice and oak flavours with a tannin structure. $79.99 nice mineral line. $65 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHHH “A great wine.” Blackcurrant nose with a violet lift and earthy complexity. Intense fruit flavour concentration and rich textured tannins. $6584 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tasting Domaine Clayfield Grampians Asmara Infinity Shiraz 2012 HHHH Heathcote Shiraz Very vibrant spicy 2014 HHHH1/2 bouquet and nice fresh A big blackberry fruit- fruit palate with good driven style with deep depth, nice balance dense purple hues. Has and good structure for some very classy nutty cellaring. Drying finish. oak on the nose and good depth of slightly 5+ $75 jammy flavours on full- bodied palate. $75 Curtis Cavaliere McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Annie’s Lane Sweet smelling Copper Trail Clare perfumed fruit aromas Valley Shiraz and oaky flavours 2013 HHHH1/2 dominating the palate but Impressive looking some plum fruit peeking old fashioned style of through. 3-5 $70 shiraz; big, but nice with vibrant sweet vanilla McGuigan Farms oak aromas and intense Barossa Valley tannic palate with great Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 depth of sweet fruit. Quite a big, surprisinglyGrampians Estate Mollydooker Mollydooker full-bodied, wine.Streeton Reserve 3-5 $79.99 Carnival of Love Enchanted PathGrampians Shiraz Plenty of oak on the2012 HHHHH Whistler Wines McLaren Vale McLaren Vale nose and a massiveDeep rich colour; still Shiraz 2014 HHHH Shiraz Cabernetsome purple hues. Reserve Barossa A simple but attractive, 2014 HHHH palate with great oakSmelling of sweet berries Valley Shiraz finish. 5+ $75and spicy oak with earthy 2014 HHHH slightly porty, style A big rich ripe oakyhints. Enormous palate; with sweet berry/cedar ‘monster’ with a verysolid deep and brooding. Brooding minty/spicy fragrances and huge ripe fruit bouquet and“Great grapes.” nose with obvious oak. Lovely vibrant blueberry warm palate with furry soft, sweet, blackberry 3-5 $75 tannins. 3-5 $75 palate with drying tannic flavours on a leanly finish. 5+ $75 structured palate with an oak finish. 5+ $70The Topper’s Mountain vineyard is found nestled high in the Great Dividing Ranges of New England, in NSW Australia. Having been born in 1850’s, New England is now re-emerging as a world-beating cool climate region.W W W. T O P P E R S. C O M . A U September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 85

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XINashwauk Wrecked SHIRAZ & Kurtz Family Fox Creek Wines Parous McLaren ValeMcLaren Vale Shiraz BLENDS Vineyards Schmick Reserve McLaren Shiraz 2010 HHH1/22010 HHH1/2 $80-$90 Barossa Shiraz Vale Shiraz A complexity of evolvedQuite developed 2010 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH aromas with a mintyleathery characters on 20 TASTED A big wine; still very Very oaky, developed hint underneath. Nicelythe nose; some caramel 15 AWARDED youthful with savoury/ aromas; nice touch developing blackberryand molasses. Old Great consistency here red berry nose and a of fruit. Dense palate and licorice flavours.fashioned developed with wines showing dense mouthful of cedar packed with oak and complexity and good oak flavours with berry very sweet fruit. Offers 5+ $80 winemaking which you fruit pushing through. good drinking now. $80palate. 3-5 $70 would expect at this Firm texture and tannins. Jacob’s Creek price. “The winemakersSchild Estate Pramie really organised the oak 5+ $80 Levantine Hill Estate Centenary HillBarossa Valley tannins to match the Richard Hamilton Yarra Valley Barossa ValleyShiraz 2013 HHH dense high quality fruit,” Centurion Old Vine Shiraz 2013 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2A big, rich, full-bodied noted one judge. McLaren Vale Toasty oak dominated “Smells good!” Nosewine; some port-like Wolf Blass Estates Shiraz 2014 HHHH nose and well-balanced has earthy complexity;characters, high level of of the Barossa Sweet licoricey/oaky palate with nice soft the palate has a lovelyacidity and spicy oak. Dorrien Barossa aromas. Quite a firm texture and good length rounded texture with Valley Shiraz tannic palate. High of lifted sweet raspberry nicely developing 3-5 $70 2014 HHHHH level of acid and some fruit flavours. $80 flavours. 3-5 $81.99 Great colour; very deep leesy characters. Looks purple. Intense perfumed good for cellaring. Wolf Blass Estates Jeanneret Wines licorice-like aromas and of the Barossa Denis Reserve sweet and soft in the 3-5 $80 Dorrien Barossa Single Vineyard mouth with lovely density Valley Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz of pure blackberry-like 2012 HHHH 2010 HHH varietal fruit flavours. Maturing berry bouquet Jubey aromas with tarry with an overlay of development and flavours 5+ $89 charry oak. Very closed dominated by earthy palate, tightly structured molasses characters. Turners Crossing The with berry/licorice Cut Bendigo Shiraz flavours and charry oak. 3-5 $80 2006 HHHH1/2 Mature colour and 5+ $89 SHIRAZ & complex developed BLENDS cedary aromas - still has Fox Creek Wines $90-$100 some fruit there. Soft and Reserve McLaren flavoursome in the mouth Vale Shiraz 29 TASTED with acidity still quite high 2009 HHHH but pretty good overall. Cedar and caramel on 26 AWARDED the aged nose. Very big,Optimus The 3-5 $80 full-bodied palate, soft in A very strong consistentTerraces Blackwood the mouth. Very good, class of top performers. slightly porty, flavours. “The jump up in quality Drink now. $80 here is quite marked,” noted one judge.Valley Shiraz Warrenmang “With the best wines2013 HHH showing vibrant fruit andVery oaky nose. Firm Black Puma Avoca appropriate use of oak to Pyrenees Shiraz match.”tannic palate with a 2009 HHHHlively structure and laden Haselgrove Wines Saltram No.1with vanillin oak and The Ambassador Fresh berries and spice Barossa Shiraz on the young vibrant 2012 HHHHHblack fruit. 5+ $72 McLaren Vale nose and a big dense A bright, fresh and Shiraz 2014 HHHH very youthful wine stillShingleback Deep purple, fruit- palate that still has a high showing purple hues.Unedited McLaren level of acidity and a hot Lovely oak and raisinedVale Shiraz driven, wine with a finish. 3-5 $80 fruit fragrances and2012 HHH sweet berry bouquet nice palate with vibrantNose a little muted; and a long chunky blackberry fruit flavourssome berries showing palate. Will evolve well Lerida Estate layered with spicy oak.through. Excellent Canberradepth of flavour. Lots of with a few years in the Shiraz Viognier 5+ $99.95tannins. $79.95 cellar. 3-5 $85 2014 HHH1/2 A fruit-driven style with Wolf Blass Estates a very spicy bouquet of the BarossaRojomama Raj’s Lyndoch Barossa and nicely textured,Pick Single Vineyard medium-bodied, redBarossa Valley Valley Shiraz berry palate; warmingShiraz 2008 HHH 2014 HHHHNicely developed Brooding sweet dark finish. 5+ $85wine showing greatcomplexity and fruit fragrances and adominated by vanilla oak; tightly structured andnice fruit behind. $75 intense palate which will need a few more years to mature. 3-5 $8986 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tastingSaltram Moculta Saltram No.1 Bird in Hand d’Arenberg The d’Arenberg TheRoad Barossa Shiraz Barossa Shiraz Nest Egg Mt Lofty Blind Tiger Single Swinging Malaysian2010 HHHHH 2013 HHHH1/2 Ranges Shiraz Vineyard McLaren Single VineyardAmazingly youthful wine Excellent deep purple 2012 HHHH1/2 Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shirazfor a six-year-old shiraz. colour with very ripe Lovely nose smells of 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2Attractive fresh berry intense fruit aromas the forest floor with Very deep purple wine Colour still showingnose and great richness, and a hint of cedar some tobacco and bordering on black with purple notes. Lots ofbalance and length to oak. Palate has a tight heaps of cedary oak. masses of ripe raisined varnishy oak on the nosethe palate with powerful compact structure with Deeply flavoured sweet fruit aromas and huge and a rich ripe intenselybut well-balanced fruit an impressive flavour palate with good spicy dense palate packed with flavoured palate thatflavours. 5+ $90.99 depth. 5+ $99.95 complexity, structure and intense ripe fruit and big has a huge structure, balance. 3-5 $99 tannins. 3-5 $99 unyielding tannins and isBird in Hand Nest Saltram a touch hot. $99Egg Mt Lofty Marble Quarry Road d’Arenberg The d’Arenberg J.R.ORanges Shiraz Barossa Shiraz Piceous Lodestar Afflatus Single d’Arenberg2013 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 Single Vineyard Vineyard McLaren The SolipsticVarietal bouquet of Intense, brooding, McLaren Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz Snollygoster Singleblackberries with a black ironstone nose. 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 Vineyard McLarentouch of licorice and Impressive complexity Young looking wine for Still very youthful with Vale Shirazsome earthy complexity. and depth of flavours on its age. Simple spicy sweet primary fruit 2012 HHHH1/2Very good, very long, the tight and compact red berry bouquet and prominent on the nose A big dense winelingering palate. Rich palate. Very big but not dense young raisined and a simple, compact that’s evolving nicely.concentration of varietal a hint of port characters. fruit palate with palate exhibiting very Has sweet blackberryflavours. 3-5 $99 somewhat unyielding ripe fruit, some oak aromas with more of the 5+ $90.99 acid and tannins. Hot and masses of acidity. blackberry characters finish. $99 5+ $99 filling the mouth with flavour. Good acid/tannin balance. 3-5 $99www.hoggieswine.com Ph: +61 0418 854 102 Email: [email protected] September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 87

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XI d’Arenberg The d’Arenberg Tyche’s SHIRAZ & Sardanapalian Mustard Single BLENDS Single Vineyard Vineyard McLaren $100-$200 McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHHH 2012 HHH1/2 14 TASTED Simple sweet berry Very oaky style with a 12 AWARDED bouquet with a touch of alcohol heat, A complete turn around spicy note. Dense, a simple sweet berry here! The judges concentrated and spine and supported expected more from flavoursome palate but by plenty of acidity. this price bracket. Is very acidic. Need to wait it the magical $100+ awhile. 5+ $99 3-5 $99 category? Here we see contenders and d’Arenberg The pretenders. Luckily there d’Arenberg The Amaranthine were more of the high Other Side Single Vineyard quality wines with the Single Vineyard McLaren Vale overall level being very McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH good. Shiraz 2012 HHHH Amazing purple colour Saltram The Journal Clean, young and fruity with prune/licorice aromas Centenarian Barossa nose with a tight slightly and a massive tannic Shiraz 2010 HHHHH closed palate with palate. 5+ $99 Young and lively and slightly tough acid/tannin still purple with lifted balance. Needs years to d’Arenberg ripe dark berry bouquet. open up. 5+ $99 The Little Venice Attractive palate, goodHaselgrove Wines Single Vineyard tight structure with a Coriole LloydCol Cross McLaren Bird in Hand Nest McLaren Vale balance and finesse McLaren Vale ShirazVale Shiraz Egg Mt Lofty Ranges Shiraz 2012 HHH of sweet licorice and 2012 HHHH1/22014 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Developed molasses blackberry jam flavours. Simple, somewhatSpicy red berry nose Developed cedar-like intensity on the nose subdued aromas withwith a perfumed lift and aromas with hints of with a hot ripe porty 5+ $174.99 an almost medicinalmore lift to the elegant sweet berries. Soft, palate. 3-5 $99 character. Great intensityfruit cake characters mature and sweet in Mollydooker Velvet and concentration ofon the palate. Ageing the mouth. Ready for d’Arenberg The Glove McLaren Vale varietal fruit with firmnicely; more to go. drinking right now! $99 Sisypheanic Shiraz 2014 HHHHH tannins. Will evolve Euphoria Single Dense, powerful and still further but will take its 5+ $90 Vineyard McLaren very youthful deep purple time. $100 Vale Shiraz wine. Has a very ripe,Haselgrove Wines Saltram Basedow 2012 HHH sweet berry bouquetThe Lear McLaren Road Barossa Masses of developed and a lovely palate withVale Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 jammy aromas and intensely ripe licorice/2014 HHHH A seamlessly balanced, ‘energy’ to the palate with blackberry flavours andDark berry aromas with elegant wine with a some leathery age. $99 some leathery notes.herbal notes. Palate has tarry berry bouquet anda real ‘wow’ factor and rich fruit cake flavours 3-5 $185offers a huge mouthful free of porty characters.of flavours with powerful Bird in Hand Nest 5+ $90.99 Egg Mt Lofty Rangestannins. 3-5 $90 d’Arenberg The Eight Shiraz 2009 HHH Iron Single VineyardBird in Hand Nest McLaren Vale Very oaky andEgg Mt Lofty Ranges Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 developed with aShiraz 2014 HHHH A very dense nose with mature nose and portyVery young, very aromas of prunes and jammy palate. Plenty ofvarietal and very oaky caramel. Porty prune acid. 3-5 $99style. Some spicy palate is high in acidberry fragrances and has a hot finish.with an excellent softflavoursome palate. 3-5 $99 3-5 $99 d’Arenberg The Vociferated’Arenberg The Dipsomaniac Single Hahn BarossaShipsters’ Rapture Vineyard McLaren Vineyards CatharinaSingle Vineyard Vale Shiraz Barossa ShirazMcLaren Vale 2012 HHH1/2 2005 HHHH1/2Shiraz 2012 HHHH A complex wine with The mature leathery noseA massive “over-the- very ripe varietal fruit amazingly still has sometop” wine with raisined characters, dusty oak, varietal fruit evident. Palatefruit aromas and huge plenty of tannins and is still very much alive.mouthful of porty high level of acidity. Drinking well now andflavours underscoredwith loads of acid. $99 5+ $99 should remain so for some time. 5+ $12088 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tasting Delluva Wines Grant Burge Wines Bremner Barossa Meshach Shiraz 2013 HHHH Barossa Valley Developed red berry, Shiraz 2010 HHH cedar and spice Lovely leathery aromas. Rich ripe sweet development with blackberry flavours outstanding sweet layered with vanilla oak. generous fruit. Has a powerful line of “Travelling well.” acid. 5+ $120 $169.99 Geoff Merrill Henley Geoff Merrill Henley McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz 2006 HHHH Shiraz 2005 HHH Smells remarkably fresh Soft and mature wine and fruity with plum with cedar and spice pudding complexity. characters. Starting to Tight, elegant palate. dry out - drink now. $150 Great sweet fruit and cedar oak flavours. Enjoy now. $150Hahn Barossa God’s Hill Menzel Peter Lehmann Hahn BarossaVineyards Catharina Barossa Shiraz Wines Stonewell Vineyards CatharinaBarossa Shiraz 2008 HHHH Barossa Valley Barossa Shiraz2004 HHHH1/2 Nicely aged leathery Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 2003 HHH1/2A sprightly wine for its nose that still shows Mature molasses Pretty good for a 2003.age. Sweet molasses- some nice fruit. The complexity to the nose This generous winelike development on the palate is mature, hot and and soft, sweet and smells very oaky butnose with some fruit jammy and is lovely and nicely textured palate there are berries there.hanging in there. The soft in the mouth. $120 offering easy drinking Lovely flavour depth.soft and sweet palate now. $100 Drink soon. $100still shows an energy. 3-5 $120ALDI’s collection aFlSdOTINROAi.VRSDcAEEEoLSITLmE,AACVIBTLI.SESaLIDETuof premium wines atnot-so-premium prices AUSTRALIA Margaret River W.A. McLaren Vale S.A.9$ 99 9$ 99 9$ 99 9$ 99 ea ea ea ea A.C. Byrne & Co A.C. Byrne & Co A.C. Byrne & Co A.C. Byrne & CoMargaret River Semillon Margaret River Margaret River McLaren Vale Shiraz 750mlSauvignon Blanc 750ml Chardonnay 750ml Cabernet Merlot 750ml Classically McLaren Vale with concentratedClassically Margaret River with Modern and wonderfully expressive Rich and opulent with generous wild berry, blackberry and blueberryexpressive fruits of citrus blossom, with citrus blossom, white peach flavours of blackberry, plum and soft flavours finishing with light spice, chocolatelemon, passionfruit, herbs and tropical and nectarine fruits and a delicate dark fruits. A wine with charm, and clove characters.fruits with an underlying minerality. integration of French oak. elegance and flavour through the finish. A wine of richness and generosity.ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18.Available in selected stores. See aldi.com.au for locations. While stocks last — Please note stocks are limited and will vary between stores.ALC7501_Winestate_Mag.indd 1 September/October 2016 W I N E S T2A0/0T1/1E6 10:06 A8M9

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XISHIRAZ & Penfolds Grange Bird in Hand Wolf Blass Medlands Bird in Hand MACBLENDS South Australia MAC Mt Lofty Estate Platinum Mt Lofty Ranges$200+ Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Ranges Shiraz Label Barossa Shiraz 2012 HHHH This wine has freshness, 2013 HHHH1/2 Valley Shiraz A wine with finesse,11 TASTED brightness and vibrancy. A purple hued wine 2010 HHHH1/2 elegance and great9 AWARDED The youthful nose with a fresh, simple, red Massively dense wine structure with some shows plenty of oak and berry bouquet and nicely - looks almost black in intense red berry fruitExpectations are high is laced with blackberry controlled oak. Simple the glass. Huge mature characters and veryhere. Overall a very fruit. Tightly structured but very stylish fruit on molasses aromas and classy oak to balance it.strong group of wines palate, seamlessly the balanced, soft, full- amazingly intense $350with excellent fruit balanced with masses of bodied palate with quite chocolaty flavours with Pertaringaripeness and depth oak. $1,048 a hot finish. $350 blackberries sitting The Yeomanwithout being porty and Pertaringa The Wolf Blass Medlands underneath. $200 McLaren Valegood level of complexity. Yeoman McLaren Estate Platinum Torbreck The Laird Shiraz 2014 HHHThere were high scores Vale Shiraz Label Barossa Barossa Shiraz Very attractive,given for well built, aged 2013 HHHH1/2 Valley Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 straightforward fruit/oakwines that were still A very impressive wine 2012 HHHH1/2 Mature blackberry fruit nose and lovely flavourfresh and vibrant. now and will be even Lovely dense purple aromas with plenty density on the palate. better in 5 years or so. wine with great of oak on top. The Drink now. $250 It has inky raisined-like freshness of fruit that incredibly fresh, oak- Henschke Hill of aromas and a huge is still showing good driven, palate has some Grace Eden Valley palate with incredible varietal characters and slight tarry characters Shiraz 2010 HHH depth of sweet plum-like is nicely balanced by and plenty of powerful Sweet and complex fruit. $250 well-handled quality oak. acidity. Still a youth! spicy caramel aromas Drinking well now. $200 $960 with more of that complexity evident on the lean palate. $1,000 CABERNET IS KING Gralyn Cabernet Sauvignon is internationally acclaimed showing superb strength, finesse and proven longevity “This was the greatest layout of wines I have seen in 20 years! Great to see the best Australian wines up there with the top French First Growths” WOLF BLASS, JUDGE WINESTATE 2016 INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTING “One of the finest Cabernet Sauvignons I have ever tasted from Margaret River” ROBERT M.PARKER JR. THE WINE ADVOCATE 2004WINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTING 2016 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL WINE FAIR 2016“Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 a great wine! Huge “We are seeking distributors for our premiumwow factor to the nose fantastic fresh earthy wines in China, Hong Kong & Macau. Join uspalate that goes on and on with a great tannin for a tasting at the Hong Kong Fair 10th - 12thbackbone” November 2016”equalled Chateau Latour & Chateau Lafite Rothschild Merilyn & Graham Hutton, Gralyn EstateCELLAR DOOR 4145 CAVES RD WILYABRUP MARGARET RIVER WESTERN AUSTRALIA WWW.GRALYN.COM.AU90 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings.A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardlessWines are invited from any producer, a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions areprovided that they meet the criteria Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published accordingof the class being judged. The class is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertisingmay be a regional, style or new release is taken or not.tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging systemavailable for consumers to purchase, The judgesalthough we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average morewine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human andAwarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges withWinestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and ausing Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight willprocedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technicalto the judges. The three judges taste expertise and often a marketing/retailthe wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes.without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges arethis is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, masters of wine with vast internationalscores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ experience, and most judges havere-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience at major Australian wineagreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade shows. We are also aware of expertise.the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered If we are judging a region, for example,is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce we will have a winemaker judge fromabove and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, that region because that person knowsis 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; the local style. We balance that withwine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent a judge from outside the region anddrinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine generally someone with broad andnot gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind mature experience.wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice toHOW WE COMPAREWinestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 97 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 95 - 96 Very Good 18 - 18.4 93 - 94 HHHH Silver 91 - 92 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 17 - 17.9 89 - 90 Good HHH Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star ratingsystem which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 91

71 TASTED40 AWARDEDSEMILLON & BLENDSWe say it again and again, semillon is the most underrated white McGuigan Fuddling Cupwine variety in Australia. There is a caveat however, wait until you Bin 9000 Series Margaret Riversee some older vintages to get the true intensity of the grape. Hunter Valley Semillon SauvignonYoung semillon is a great addition to sauvignon blanc, but can be Semillon Blanc 2014 HHHaustere by itself. With age it develops beautifully and maintains its 2013 HHH1/2 Marzipan and roastedline and length. A very drinkable classic nut nose and long, rich with intriguing aromas and slightly fat palate and good line of varietal with a fine line of acid. flavours. Still has a high $17 level of acid. 5+ $13 SEMILLON & BLENDS James Busby VBBAEULSYUTSE $20-$25 Story BaySEMILLON & Jamieson’s Run The SEMILLON & Margaret River 10 TASTEDBLENDS Grazier South East BLENDS Semillon Sauvignon 4 AWARDEDUNDER $10 Australia Semillon $10-$15 Blanc 2015 HHH Sauvignon Blanc A classic with great “Still a mixed bag at14 TASTED 2015 HHH 10 TASTED use of both varieties; this price,” agreed the Honeyed citrus nose a balance of grassy judges. “However we6 AWARDED with nutty/toasty 5 AWARDED and snow pea-like are starting to see the elements and nicely characters. $12 benefit of age here,” rounded fleshy fruit they said.The judges thought palate. $6 A mixed group. “A few McGuigan Bin 9000that for the price there Wolf Blass Red Label had high acid and had Series Hunter Valley Mistletoe Wineryare some amazing South East Australia cellaring potential, whilst Semillon 2015 HHH Home Vineyardwines here. At this level Semillon Sauvignon others had stripped Very bright in appearance Pokolbin Hunterwe only expect light Blanc 2015 HHH pressings characters,” with a nice buttery nose Valley Semillonflavoured fresh and Very lifted aromas; all said one judge. “Not and a fresh lively citrus 2015 HHH1/2lively wines and these grassy and melon-like. much on the nose but palate. $13 Delicate, lifted, floraldelivered. Even a few Fleshy rich fruit palate some offered good bouquet and lovelyolder wines were still wrapped in nice acid. quaffing and the older SEMILLON & finesse to the sweetholding up well. $7 wines show semillon BLENDS fruit palate with a firm Penfolds Rawsons improves with age.” $15-$20 acid backbone. $22Jacob’s Creek Retreat South EastClassic South East Australia Semillon 7 TASTED Clovely Estate Chardonnay Evans & Tate Classic Left Field South 2012 HHH 2 AWARDED Burnett Semillon Toasty honeysuckle 2013 HHH1/2Australia Semillon fragrances and generous Margaret River Interesting toastinessSauvignon Blanc fruit-filled palate with to the nose with nice2015 HHH1/2 good mouthfeel and Semillon Sauvignon Generally disappointing creamy notes and a texture. $5.80 Blanc 2015 HHH1/2 with only a couple worth fleshy melon fruit palateQuite restrained green Lone Road A nice blend of grassy/ the extra few dollars. wrapped in acid. $20apple-like bouquet and a Winemakers Mrclean refreshing palate SSB Margaret River tropical aromas. A little Barking Owl Morgan Simpson Semillon Sauvignon light in the mouth with Margaret River Wines Endangeredwith nice fruit entry and Blanc 2012 HHH firm acid entry which Semillon Sauvignon Species McLarencitrus drive. 3-5 A classic, holding up Blanc 2015 HHH1/2 Vale Semillon$8 well with developed follows across the Strong herbal/green 2011 HHH1/2 citrus aromas and palate. 3-5 $14 bean sauvignon blanc Fresh, youthful, flavours. Fine line of influence to the nose. perfumed floralMcWilliams Family acid. $7 McGuigan Slightly lean, tart palate fragrances. Fleshy in theWinemakers Bin 9000 Series with refreshing acidity. mouth with some lovelyInheritance Australia Hunter Valley varietal fruit characters.Semillon Sauvignon Semillon 1-2 $18 $20Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2Smells of cut straw Hints of boiled lollyand roasted nuts with a characters on the nosefleshy fruit palate with and interestingly texturednicely integrated acidity palate holding up veryand good texture. $5 well. Lots of potential. 5+ $1392 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

varietal tastingClovely Estate Left James Estate McGuigan The Tyrrell’s Wines The Islander WallyField South Burnett Reserve Hunter Shortlist Hunter Steven’s Hunter White KangarooSemillon 2010 HHH Valley Semillon Valley Semillon Valley Semillon Island SemillonA classic ageing 2009 HHHH 2015 HHH 2011 HHHH 2013 HHHsemillon; lovely florals Classic aged semillon Red apple nose with Bright spicy varietal Massive toasty oakon the developing nose nose; all toasty and a floral lift and slightly fruit aromas and a silky characters on the nosewith a bright crisp citrus butterscotch-like. A creamy in the mouth soft palate with great which follows through topalate. 5+ $20 great palate - intriguing, with great flavour fruit flavours and some the rich fruit palate. $35 interesting and very length. $29 fine acidity. Still very drinkable. High acidity. $27 youthful. 5+ $35 SEMILLONSEMILLON Coolangatta Estate Saddler’s Creek $40+$25-$30 Estate Grown Wines Classic Saddler’s Creek Shoalhaven Coast Hunter Semillon Wines Ryan’s 8 TASTED13 TASTED Semillon 2014 HHH Reserve Hunter 6 AWARDED 2015 HHH1/2 Green bean and floral- Semillon10 AWARDED Hints of tropical fruit like fragrances with a 2012 HHH1/2 Outstanding! “Layers of with a slight lemony long, rich and inviting Light grassy fragrances; complexity here whichDefinitely more edge on the subdued varietal palate. $26 good fruit punch. Great speaks for the qualityconsistency here. “The nose. Similar flavours on acid line and length on of this unheralded2015s are going through the vibrant palate. $25 McGuigan The the palate promising variety,” said one judge.the in-between stage Ridgeview Wines Shortlist Hunter cellaring potential. Again this group showsof youthful vibrancy Generations Reserve Valley Semillon the ageing potentialand aged secondary Hunter Valley 2013 HHH 3-5 $38 of semillon that ischaracter complexity,” Semillon Tight and restrained on the unmatched by any othersaid one judge. “The 2015 HHH1/2 nose and tangy and tart Pokolbin Estate Phil white variety. A wine toolder intense wines are A subtle oak bouquet on the palate with slightly Swannell Hunter wow your friends!starting to show their with hints of nougat and warming finish. $29 Valley Semilloncharacter and are worth spices. Lovely palate 2011 HHH1/2 Coolangatta Estateholding on to.” texture and length with SEMILLON Developed toasty Estate Grown fresh fruit flavours. $25 $30-$40 bouquet with nutty Shoalhaven CoastAudrey Wilkinson McGuigan The notes and rich fruit SemillonWinemakers Shortlist Hunter 9 TASTED flavours with good level 2006 HHHHHSelection Hunter Valley Semillon 7 AWARDED of acidity and a fruit- A gorgeous steely greenValley Semillon 2014 HHH1/2 driven finish. $30 apple and passionfruit2014 HHHH1/2 Pungent savoury aromas As the judges expected nose with a white floralA lovely classic Hunter with a floral element and - a very consistent group Tempus Two Pewter lift. Delicious palate -semillon with a mix of great length and drive of more ‘serious’ wines. Hunter Valley still clean and vibrantapple, nettle and citrus of varietal flavours with “These wines offer finer Semillon 2015 HHH with a minerally texturearomas with a lavender underlying oak. $29 acid, better quality fruit Slightly subdued citrus, and loads of acidity forlift to the vibrant palate Pokolbin Estate and winemaking for floral, five spices aromas its age. Way to go yet.with its well-integrated Ken Bray Hunter further ageing,” said one with nicely rounded fruitflavours. Great finish! $28 Valley Semillon judge. flavours. $30 5+ $70 2011 HHH1/2Pokolbin Estate Phil Aromas of apricots and Saddler’s Creek Mistletoe WinerySwannell Hunter roasted nuts and nicely Wines Classic Reserve PokolbinValley Semillon developing rich, warming Hunter Semillon Hunter Valley2014 HHHH palate that still shows 2005 HHHH1/2 Semillon 2013 HHHDeveloped buttery freshness. $25 Very interesting aged Steely citrus bouquetbouquet with nice fruity Hunter semillon that’s and a good purity oflift. Lovely power and ready for drinking now. varietal fruit on thepurity of varietal fruit on Has a classic roasted/ palate with plenty ofthe slightly creamy palate toasty steely nose and potential. 5+ $30with good acidity. $25 great fresh varietal fruit purity and drive to the palate. $36JUDGES Michael Costa Marc Allgrove Michael Corbett Winemaker at Over 20 years in the Assistant winemaker/ Tenafeate Creek Australian wine industry, vigneron for Knappstein Wines. Ten vintages both Australia and abroad. Wines and Vanguardist in the Barossa Valley Worked at Hardy’s, Wines. Extensive wine along with one in Constellation, Chapel Hill knowledge across 20 Provence and one in (CEO) and director of the vintages making wines Southern Italy. Judge Phylloxera board. in New Zealand (Hawkes at Australian Amateur Bay, Central Otago) plus winemakers show. Hunter Valley, Clare, Southern France and California. September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 93

SEMILLON & BLENDSCoolangatta Estate Tyrrell’s Wines Vat STAR RATINGS Estate Grown 1 Hunter ValleyShoalhaven Coast Semillon 2011 HHHH Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofSemillon Quite restrained flinty excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.2005 HHHHH steely nose but has a All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryNose is a fragrant rich creamy palate still professionals and are compared in peercombo of nettles, pea showing plenty of fruit classes by three judges.pods and lime fruit power with excellent CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,and showing subtle acid integration. a major mail-order business.development. Juicy, CD Cellar door price.lively and flavoursome in 5+ $80 CDO Cellar door only.the mouth with amazing Coolangatta Estate SO Sold out.line of acidity for an 11- Estate Grown $N/A Price not available at time of printing.year old. $50 Shoalhaven Coast  Contact information pg 143-144. SemillonCoolangatta Estate 2009 HHHH RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).Individual Vineyard Toasty and buttery nose BEST VALUE for $20 & under.Wollstonecraft with spicy lemon notes.Shoalhaven Coast Very approachable For a complete list of what we tastedSemillon palate; great texture please refer to www.winestate.com.au2009 HHHH1/2 with mouthcoating fruitVery developed spicy flavours. $40toasty aromas with Pokolbin Estate Philsome fruit peeking Swannell Hunterthrough. Palate has great Valley Semillonpoise, line and length 2009 HHH1/2with nice mouthfeel and A delightful integrationtexture. Has plenty left of fresh lemons, apples,in in yet. 5+ $40 toast and spices on the nose and palate with a good line of acidity. $4094 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016



travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINYARRA VALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIAYARRA SHOWPIECE access to a world-class wine cellar) are HIDDEN GEM included, and each suite is fitted with a largePROPERTY developer Elias Jreissati and high-definition television with Foxtel access, IT MAY be tucked away off the main street ofhis wife Colleen have poured their hearts an iPod dock, a private safe, direct-dial Healesville, but the Graceburn Wine Room,and souls into making Levantine Hill the new telephones and a state of the art heating the casual cellar door of Mac Forbes Wines,showpiece of the Yarra Valley. Home to the and cooling system. Those on more modest has been pulling in the crowds ever since itinstantly successful Ezard @ Levantine Hill budgets can enjoy themselves at the cellar opened.restaurant and an expansive cellar door, it door, where there are two dining spaces; an “Given we don’t have a cellar door at thehas taken Levantine Hill just 12 months to all-day space offers sharing plates and the winery we decided to open Graceburn to bebecome a regional wine tourism benchmark. signature Ezard @ Levantine Hill, which offers able to share this personal experience withWith former Yarra Yering winemaker Paul five- and eight-course tasting menus matched those who enjoy our wines,” Forbes said.Bridgeman making the wines everything to Levantine Hill wines. Graceburn may be the Mac Forbes tastingabout Levantine Hill screams quality, although Levantine Hill is at 882-886 Maroondah room, but it aims to offer a lot more than athere have been naysayers arguing the Highway, Coldstream. Phone (03) 8602 0874. standard cellar door. “We are very excitedcouple has moved too quickly. In addition to www.levantinehill.com.au. to offer a range of back vintage wines, anthe stellar restaurant (helicopters queue up to amazing selection of speciality teas (withland at the weekends) and cellar door, there BISTRO OPENING many parallels to our own wines) and a smallare also plans for some luxury villas dotted list of ‘friends’ wines that come from personsalong the hillside overlooking the Yarra Valley. THE Mornington Peninsula has a new that have been connected with our journeyFor now, however, if you want a weekend restaurant attraction with the opening of to date,” Forbes says. Think experimentalLevantine Hill experience you’ll need to be Petit Tracteur Bistro, the baby brother of fine batch wines from Forbes himself and snackswilling to splash out at least $10,000 for an diner Ten Minutes by Tractor. Situated in the that range from squid ink salami to anchoviesextraordinary luxury immersion. Situated premises formerly occupied by La Petanque, and other seafood, charcuterie, cheeseon a hill above the estate with 360-degree Petit Tracteur offers both bar and bistro platters, pork and chicken liver terrines andpanoramic views, Levantine Hill Homestead menus, the latter featuring the likes of seared toasties. Guest chefs sometimes make anoffers a serene retreat in the heart of one of chicken with crisp lardons, roasted baby corn, appearance. The wines are available by theAustralia’s most-renowned wine regions and parmesan, green beans, rocket, salsa verde; glass, bottle or flight.has already been hired by several prominent confit duck leg with orange sauce, baby The Graceburn Wine Room is at 11a Greennames. It was built as a personal retreat first potatoes and green beans and char-grilled Street, Healesville. It is open noon-5pm,and foremost (and is regularly used by the pork rack, rosemary-roasted apricots and Sunday to Wednesday and 11am-9pm onowners). A guest suite costs $5000 per night onion shells. The tarte tatin has gained many Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. www.twin share with a two-night minimum. The full admirers among those with sweet tooths. The macforbes.com.homestead costs $15,000 per night with a room boasts huge windows, woody tones andminimum of three nights and a maximum of a long banquette. Lunch is served Thursday A DREAM REALISEDeight guests. Luxurious amenities, private to Monday from 11am and dinner Friday tobathroom, personal deluxe bathrobes, fully Sunday from 6pm. JON HELMER has two decades ofstocked complimentary mini bar (including Petit Tracteur Bistro is at 1208 Mornington- experience in the wine business and he Flinders Road, Main Ridge, phone (03) 5989 realised a long-time dream by opening the 2510. www.petittracteur.com.au. Geelong Cellar Door in the burgeoning Little Malop Street precinct in June. The list covers every winery in the Geelong/Bellarine region (making it an ideal stop for visitors), as well as a cleverly curated selection of interlopers from around Australia and the world. There are around a dozen wines available by the glass and guests can choose any wine from the retail shelves and pay $10 corkage to enjoy it in the warm, clubby but female- friendly atmosphere. Names like Bannockburn, Clyde Park, Lethbridge and Scotchman’s Hill line- up alongside boutique producers like Spence Wines, Livewire and Hildegard96 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

travelbriefsfor a complete snapshot of the Geelong DESTINATION WINERIES NEW WINE RANGEregion. The food is largely charcuterie andcheese platters - of excellent quality - and THE Moorabool Valley, on the Melbourne side THE Yarra Valley’s Zonzo Estate, knownthere is a wood fire to keep drinkers warm of Geelong, is home to two superb wineryin winter, a long table for meetings, classes destinations for long weekend lunches: Del for its Italian seasonal menus and rustic,and tastings and an outdoor seating area Rios Wines and Clyde Park Bistro. Withon the way in time for summer. For those former Cape Mentelle winemaker John farmhouse-style location in the Yarra Valleywanting more substantial meals, Helmer Durham lifting the quality of the Del Riosplans to allow patrons to bring in dishes wines, the Spanish-accented cellar door is now producing its own wines. Crafted byfrom neighbouring eateries. eatery rocks on Saturdays and Sundays asGeelong Wine Cellar is at 97-99 Little Malop large groups tuck in to the likes of home- experienced Yarra winemakers CarolineStreet, Geelong. Phone (03) 5229 9568. made paella and tapas dishes.www.geelongcellardoor.com.au. The massive bistro, set in at atmospheric Mooney and Kate Goodman, the Zonzo Estate barrel hall, is a huge drawcard at Clyde Park,COOKING UP A STORM as are the views, house-made breads, olive premier wine collection includes pinot noir, oils, wood fired pizzas, seasonal produce,AWARD WINNING Chef Aaron Turner, who fresh seafood and vineyard platters. shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay andsoared to fame at Loam, is back from a Meanwhile, central Geelong has a newstint in the United States and cooking up a accommodation option with the opening in sauvignon blanc made from grapes hand-storm at his hip new Igni eatery in central April of Devlin Apartments, just next doorGeelong. Igni, which sees Turner again to Skilled Stadium on Moorabool Street. picked on the estate (formerly Train Trak).working with former Loam collaborators Devlin Apartments consists of 37 luxuryDrew Hamilton and Joanna Smith, opened self-contained short-stay apartments and The owner of the restaurant since 2007, Rodin February and there is no menu. Guests rooms located in the heritage-listed formerchat with the wait staff and are then Gordon Junior Technical School. Guests can Micallef acquired the estate in March 2015recommended a five- or eight-course choose from The New Yorker, The Industrialdegustation featuring dishes chosen by or The Modernist-style apartments. and determined to breathe new life into thethe kitchen. Igni’s focus is on the open Del Rios of Mt Anakie is at 2290 Ballan Road,kitchen’s charcoal grill and five-courses Anakie. Phone (03) 5284 1227. www.delrios. existing 20-hectare vineyard by creating acost $100 (or $160 with matching wines) com.au. Clyde Park Vineyard & Bistro isand eight courses $160 or ($245 with wine). at 2490 Midland Highway, Bannockburn. premium wine collection that would tie theDinners Thursday to Saturday with lunches Phone (03) 5281 7274. www.clydepark.on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. com.au. Devlin Apartments, 312 Moorabool authentic, Italian offerings of the restaurant toIgni is at 2 Ryan Place, Geelong. Phone Street, Geelong. Phone (03) 5222 1560.(03) 5222 2266. www.restaurantigni.com. www.devlinapartments.com.au. the reinvigorated vines. “The vino was developed through dedication, passion and relentless expectation,” says Micallef, who released the first wines in April. The new wine collection will feature as a permanent fixture on the wine list at Zonzo Estate and in conjunction with the launch of the debut wines, Zonzo has added a second hot-air balloon to provide a birds’ eye view of the vineyards – something that has proved hugely popular. Zonzo Estate is located at 957 Healesville- Yarra Glen Rd, Yarra Glen. www.zonzo. com.au. Above: Zonzo wines new range. Opposite page, Top right: Wine Room at Graceburn. Top left: Levantine Hill Vineyard. Below middle: Duck a l’Orange, Petit Tracteur. September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 97

104 TASTED67 AWARDEDYA R R A VA L L E Y& SOUTHERN VICTORIAAlways a pleasure to review these wines where the Yarra offers Innocent Bystandera diverse balance of great cabernets and chardonnays in warm Yarra Valleyyears and pinot and pinot gris in cool years. Nearby, Mornington, ChardonnayGippsland and Geelong present cool climate wines at their best; 2015 HHHHHpinot noir, spicy whites and lean chardonnay. Nice aromatic combination of pears, apples and butter with clean bright fruity palate showing good level of oak, some sweetness and zingy lemon zest notes. 5+ $25SPARKLING OTHER WHITE Bass River Single VARIETALS Vineyard Gippsland4 TASTED Pinot Gris 2015 HHH Boat O’ Craigo Black2 AWARDED 11 TASTED Hints of pears on Spur Yarra Valley the nose and well ChardonnayA couple of nice 5 AWARDED expressed varietal 2015 HHHHHwines here showing Delightful sweet oak andtoasty mouthfeel and Mixed results. The characters on the palate. varietal fruit fragrancespersistent bubbles. judges suggested a lot Food! 3-5 $25 of lemon zest and“More promise with of wines were using almonds which followstime on lees,” said one residual sugar to hide Seville Estate Yarra through to the smooth Terra Felix Yarrajudge. phenolics. The best Valley Riesling flavoursome palate with Valley Chardonnay were fresh, balanced 2014 HHH well-integrated acidity. 2015 HHHHBarwon Ridge and showing varietal A classic honeyed/citrus A generous wine inGeelong Vintage definition. riesling nose with these 5+ $28 the riper fruit spectrumBrut 2014 HHH1/2 characters echoed on the with leesy malo notesExpressive lifted citrus harmonious palate. $36 Seville Estate Yarra to the nose and aaromas; pleasant Valley Chardonnay delicate style of palateyeastiness. Nicely 2015 HHHHH with good acid spine.balanced palate with Flinty leesy aromas;correct amount of Clyde Park Geelong CHARDONNAY good chardonnay fruit 3-5 $19.50sweetness. $30 Pinot Gris 2015 2015 HHHH characters and niceSeville Estate Yarra 16 TASTED oak presence. TheValley Blanc de Nice lift of tropical fruit clean, well-integratedBlancs 2013 HHH1/2 fragrances which carry 9 AWARDEDLovely lifted lemony palate has good varietal Tokar Estate Yarracharacters here through to the smooth expression, length andwith nice toastiness palate with good level A strong vintage with Valley Chardonnaydeveloping and good two styles here; the intensity. 5+ $36 2015 HHHHzesty acidity that lingers of acid to balance the fresh and vibrant andon. $45 sweetness. 3-5 $35 the rich and luxurious A beautifully balanced with the micro-climates Seville Estate oak-dominated style. offering variety. “These Reserve Yarra Valley Some flintiness to the Bittern Estate are very strong for Chardonnay nose with good length Mornington wines that have just 2015 HHHH1/2 of varietal flavours. Has Peninsula Arneis been put in the bottle,” Creamy nose with lifted potential. 5+ $35 2013 HHHH said one judge. Lots to fruit and hints of oak and Lovely freshness to look forward to! leesy notes. The sweet Bittern Estate the spicy/almond-like oak carries through to Mornington aromas. More spicy the acid dominated Peninsula characters on the citrus palate. More Chardonnay nicely textured palate simple than complex. 2015 HHH with some sweetness. Delicate floral fruit 5+ $70 bouquet and a funky 3-5 $20 young palate showing a good pedigree. Innocent Bystander Hoddles Creek Yarra Valley & King Estate Yarra Valley 5+ $25 Valley Pinot Gris Chardonnay 2015 HHH1/2 2015 HHHH A shy simple fruit Good expression of nose. The long intense varietal fruit on the nose flavoursome palate and a long clean, well- had good mouthfeel, balanced, slightly broad, balance and intensity. palate with lingering acidity. 3-5 $19 3-5 $2098 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016

regional tastingFoxeys Hangout Steels Gate Yarra Hoddles CreekRed Lilac Vineyard Valley Chardonnay Estate Yarra ValleyMornington 2012 HHH Pinot NoirPeninsula A complex style on the 2015 HHHHChardonnay buttery side with well- A full-bodied style at2015 HHH integrated flavours and the savoury end of thePeach-driven aromas great mouthfeel. spectrum with nice liftand clean simple palate of red fruit characters.with a hint of oak and 3-5 $24.95 It is simple, long andfruit sweetness. nicely textured. PINOT NOIR 3-5 $50 2015 5+ $19CHARDONNAY 18 TASTED Sticks Yarra Valley2014 & OLDER 16 AWARDED Pinot Noir 2015 HHHH14 TASTED Excellent class of high Deep dark brooding7 AWARDED quality pinots from a fruit bouquet layered, good vintage for the complex and intense andThe 2013s were variety. Southern Victoria a fine, delicate and well-stronger than the 2014s is ‘pinot city’ as far as made palate with good(which was a difficult Australian pinot are savouriness. $22.99year). These were still concerned and thesefresh and lively and, Sunshine Creek examples show why. Tokar Estate Yarra The Tudor Yarra“If you pick wisely, Yarra Valley Valley Pinot Noir Valley Pinot Noirsome are also cellaring Chardonnay 2015 HHHH 2015 HHH1/2propositions,” advised 2013 HHHH An intense lift of red A simple, earthy, fruit-one judge. Nose shows oak barrel berry aromas with a driven style that has ferment characters savoury touch. Full- plenty of flavour, nice with good oak flavours flavoured palate with texture and a good firm carrying through plenty of weight, good tannic structure. layered with fresh mouthfeel and texture.Yering Station Yarra 5+ $12.99Valley Chardonnay 5+ $402013 HHHH1/2Nose has layers of citrus fruit. Nice acid Foxeys Hangout Bass River 1835citrus fruit, flinty notes support. 3-5 $45 Scotsworth Farmand oak. Good volume Mornington Gippsland Pinotand intensity of white Kings of Kangaroo Peninsula Pinot Noir Noir 2015 HHH1/2peach-like flavours Ground Yarra Valley 2015 HHHH Funky fresh herb andand excellent use of Chardonnay “In a savoury mood- green aromatics. Firmoak with good acidity. 2014 HHH1/2 then there’s fruit,” savoury notes to the A restrained varietal suggested one judge. smooth, slightly lean, style 5+ $40 nose; some citrus, Spicy lift to the red of palate; slight cherry melons and oak and a berry nose and sweet notes. 5+ $40 long, intense, classic flavoursome fruit palate.Toolangi Paul’s chardonnay palate. De Bortoli WindyLane Yarra Valley 3-5 $65 Peak Yarra Valley 5+ $28 Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir Yarra Valley Pinot 2015 HHHChardonnay Scotchmans Hill Noir 2015 HHH1/2 A very pretty and precise2012 HHHH1/2 Bellarine Peninsula A simple confectionery wine with red berryZesty flinty aromas Chardonnay nose and palate of fruits and some goodwith buttery hints. 2013 HHH1/2 raspberries, strawberries savoury notes. $14The youthful creamy Pleasant bouquet of and cherries. Lovelypalate has lovely melons and oak with Clyde Park Geelong balance and harmony. more of the melons Pinot Noirvarietal fruit characters, on the palate wrapped 2015 HHHHH 3-5 $25 Wickhams Roadwell-handled oak and up in lingering acidity. Gippsland Pinotlingering acidity. Has The nose is a beautiful Noir 2015 HHH 3-5 $28 blend of berry fruit, Restrained earthy fruitvibrancy. 3-5 $45 some earthiness and fragrances and good savoury palate with nice Tarrawarra Estate spices. A silky smooth, mouthfeel and texture. Yarra Valley full-bodied, palate with $18.99 Chardonnay simple sweet plum fruit 2013 HHH flavours and a lingering Attractive leesy melon finish. 5+ $40 bouquet, slightly Steels Gate Yarra restrained, with similar Seville Estate Old Valley Pinot Noir characters on the palate. Vine Reserve Yarra 2015 HHH Valley Pinot Noir Spices and pepper on 5+ $28 2015 HHHH1/2 the nose and simple A full, complex and drying oak with firm, flavoursome pinot; high acid, tannic palate. well-made and perfectly balanced. Excellent 5+ $27.95 aromatic lift to the savoury nose and a lovely palate with a vibrant finish. $70 September/October 2016 W I N E S TAT E 99

YARRA VALLEY & SOUTH E RN VIC TORIABoat O’ Craigo PINOT NOIR Yering Station Yarra Yarraloch Single ROSÉ &Black Spur Yarra 2014 & OLDER Valley Pinot Noir Vineyard Yarra Valley OTHER REDValley Pinot Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 Pinot Noir VARIETALS2015 HHH 17 TASTED Lifted spicy red fruit 2014 HHH1/2A good complex toasty 12 AWARDED nose and a delicate, A long, well-balanced, 11 TASTEDoak/dark fruit nose and balanced and savoury style with a 9 AWARDEDsimple, slightly herbal, A strong class of harmonious palate that bright, lifted fruit, bouquetpinot flavours. $30 developing pinots. “The according to one judge, and long, intense, varietal Consistent group 2014s had cool climate “walks the savoury line”. flavours. 5+ $30 without great highlights.Gippsland Wine intensity from low Good level of acidity. “The older wines hereCompany Northrock cropping vines whilst Crittenden The looked better,” said oneVineyard Gippsland the 2013s showed 3-5 $40 Zumma Mornington judge. “Some of the the advantages of a Peninsula Pinot Noir varieties do improvePinot Noir strong vintage with 2014 HHH1/2 with age.”2015 HHH well-balanced crops,” Lifted, earthy, savouryA delicate blend of suggested one of the nose and a firm,cherry, mushroom and judges. lingering, flavoursomeforest floor aromas red fruit palate withwhich follows through to fine tannins in support.the palate. 3-5 $35 5+ $57Seville Estate YarraValley Pinot Noir Clyde Park Block D Bittern Estate2015 HHH MorningtonRed fruit aromas and a Geelong Pinot Noir Peninsula Pinot Noirbalanced berry palate 2014 HHHH1/2 2013 HHH1/2with hints of oak and A wonderfully complexgood acid structure. nose which shows Balanced and savoury wine with lifted fruity 5+ $36 sour cherries, oak and fragrances and simple, spices. The palate is both full-bodied and slightly developedFoxeys Hangout flavours with smokyKentucky Road delicate with great notes. 3-5 $30777 Mornington length of bright cherryPeninsula Pinot Noir flavours. 5+ $752015 HHH Oakdene Peta’sNice integration of oak, Single Vineyardred fruit and acid with Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsulalifted aromas and long Bellarine Peninsula Terra Felix Yarra Pinot Noirlingering flavours. $75 Pinot Noir Valley Pinot Noir 2014 HHH 2013 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH Some spicy savouriness Spicy red fruit nose; Slightly raisined aromas and firm, well-structured to the nose and some savouriness palate with good varietal a generous, well- underneath. structured palate with Silky smooth and fruit drive. 3-5 $43 long, lingering, ripe flavoursome palate Kings of Kangaroo Yarravale Reserve Yarra Valley fruit flavours with lovely at the riper end with Ground Thirteen 31 Cabernet Sauvignon mouthfeel. “A good drying oak. 3-5 wine.” 3-5 $30 $22.50 Yarra Valley Pinot 2013 HHHH Noir 2014 HHH Deep dark brooding Powerful fruit nose with hints of oak. Beautifully Tarrawarra Estate Yarraloch Whole complex nose and layered and seductive Yarra Valley Pinot Bunch Stephanie’s generous, ripe and Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 Dream Yarra Valley flavoursome palate. Sweet varietal fruit palate. A lean and delicate Pinot Noir “Good work,” enthused style with funky pinot 2013 HHHH finish. 3-5 $45 one judge. 3-5 $36 characters on the nose Licorice rich aromatics and quite restrained laced with nice funky Yarravale Reserve flavours on the palate characters and a Yarra Valley Pinot which are supported by a complex, layered and Noir 2013 HHH good acid backbone. $28 savoury palate. “An “Now this is a pinot,” excellent wine”. thought one judge. Lovely complexity, 3-5 $50 beautiful powerful fruit and lovely tannins.JUDGES 3-5 $36 Steven Paul Adrian Santolin Sandrine Gimon Manager for Winemaker Rob Dolan Rymill Coonawarra Senior Oakdene Wines. Wines and Santolin Winemaker since 2008. Completed AWRI Wines. Previously Previously travelled and WSET Advanced with De Bortoli extensively, working in Wine Assessment Wines, Rochford and Romania, Swan Valley Certificates. Judge at Sticks wineries. Has Western Australia, Victorian wine show and vintaged in Italy, in the Languedoc Roussillon and associate at Geelong, Franciacorta region. Pomerol. Completed her Ballarat and Cairns. wine making internship at Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin in Champagne.100 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2016