Winestate Magazine May June 2021

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE New Releases FROM BRASH 193 tasted BEFGIiNneNWINGiSneTsO THE 2020 STELLAR STANDOUT IN A AUSTRIAN MOUNTAIN OF WINE WINE VINTAGE Highland Heritage Estate continues A CHALLENGING, its stratospheric success YET REWARDING YEAR ZEK’S SWANSONG WA Industry stalwart, Mike Zekulich, hangs up his Tastevin May/June 2021 Wines of NSW Vol 44 Issue 3 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) 184 tasted NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Best of the West • McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu Wines of NSW • New Releases

SMEG’S FINEST EVER WHERE PASSION MEETS PRECISION, COMES A TRUE CULINARY MASTERPIECE smeg.com.au

NO.307 MAY/JUNE 2021 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd Wine Buying Guide International DAI Rubicon phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2021 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 3

contents MAY/JUNE 2021 FEATURES 34 R E G U L A R S 26 FROM BRASH BEGINNINGS TO season of opposites. Faced with the 8 Briefs FINE WINES challenges of the pandemic and 18 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW changing climatic conditions there 20 European Report with Not having a traditional background are some lovely wines to be had Sally Easton in wine doesn’t seem to have had from these various regions that are 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley any impact on the uber-successful, well worth seeking out. 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King newly rebranded, Brash Road 42 Grapevine Vineyard, writes Mike Zekulich. 38 ZEK’S SWANSONG 48 Wine Investment & Collecting Achieving a swag of awards over After more than 40 years as our 90 Aftertaste the past ten years, they continue to put their focus into producing loyal Winestate WA contributor 80 New Releases super-premium fine wines from a and a 40-plus successful wine 86 Best Value Buys under $20 very special single vineyard site that writing career, Mike Zekulich has been refined over this time and OAM, has decided it’s time to W I N E TAST I N G S is now producing at its peak. hang up his official tastevin and 52 Best of the West kick back and enjoy some of the 62 Wines of NSW 30 STELLAR STANDOUT IN A great wines that he has written 72 McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, MOUNTAIN OF WINE about over the years. As his last Fleurieu & Surrounds contribution, we journey with him Charles Gent explores the very and a band of his mates around cool-climate region of Orange, the Swan Valley, revisiting some of where it’s not unusual for this area the iconic producers of this region to be blanketed in snow, and one and reminiscing about old stories of its most successful wineries, whilst creating some new ones. Highland Heritage Estate. Battling these challenging conditions and the ever-changing global market, both climatically and economically, doesn’t seem to be a concern for this award-winning brand who keeps going from strength to strength. 34 THE 2020 AUSTRIAN WINE VINTAGE – A CHALLENGING YET REWARDING YEAR A very interesting vintage report on our Austrian cousins and their 2020 vintage – which was a growing 26 For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Winestate Magazine Issue Number 307 May/June 2021 Cover photograph 5phonrf 4 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

When perfection is achieved the world takes notice grandeurwellington.com.au 201 Blewitt Springs Road, McLaren Flat, SA 5171



editorial THERE IS ONLY ONE MAJOR BUSINESS CONVERSATION about the economy that we are all continuing to talk about and that continues to be Covid; its effect on our health and wellbeing and the financial ramifications of personal debt and government debt, that it seems we will be paying on the never, never! Amazingly some sections have done well (particularly through on-line sales) and through Jobkeeper others have survived! But of course, whilst the Australian government should be congratulated for its lifesaving initiatives it can be criticised for allowing the state’s leaders to become little emperors in their own right with wildly different approaches to the pandemic – some states handling it better than others. As they say luck is more important than intelligence and both Australia and New Zealand are very lucky in that we are Islands that can keep out the general spread of the virus. Whilst this is not a political magazine it is hard not to mention the on-going impact of the virus which affects everything. Fortunately, the vaccine is being rolled out and states are finally relaxing many of the rules that have strangled businesses and individuals alike. On a positive note, it has brought individuals and communities together to help each other out and that is a great thing. Because there is no international travel (devastating for the tourism industry) people have been spending in locally, in the regions and on-line and this has been the saviour for wine companies, particularly for those hit by the vengeful shutdown of the China trade. This buying support of the Australian consumer has surprised many commentators about the rebound of the Australian economy. It was supposed to be much worse than it is. For this to continue post Jobkeeper we need to get out of the house and support hospitality in its hour of need albeit at a safe 1.5 metre range. It may not be the same as before but for the health of the community (and our own) it is important that we continue to contribute on a regular basis and the rest will look after itself. For this issue we are pleased to report on our various judgings, including McLaren Vale & Fleurieu, Best of the West, Wines of New South Wales and New Releases. Like Barossa & Eden Valley, McLaren Vale & Fleurieu enjoy a simpatico relationship where the former provides the flavour and the latter the elegance and acid structure of the cool climate regions of Langhorne and Currency Creek and Southern Fleurieu and we can also include Kangaroo Island in this mix. Overall, it can be addressed as the Fleurieu Peninsula, but we like to keep the cool climate regions as a separate area. It is interesting to note that the legendary winemaker, Wolf Blass won many a wine show with his combination of McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek fruit. This year, again because of Covid, we were unable to fly to either Perth or Sydney, and whilst many of the major wine shows were either cancelled or postponed, we were determined to move ahead. So, we were pleased to assemble groups of expert judges to do both tastings, focusing on judges who had worked with wineries from either state so that there was no question that they would not be familiar with the wines. Although as a result numbers were down, we were pleased with the result and pleased to be able to support the wineries. And finally, we finish with New Releases. Great to see wineries continuing to make good wine and as long as they do, we will support them in that regard. Please check out the reviews and make a note of the wines that match your style preference. As I have said before (with apologies to whoever said the original segue) let’s have a glass of wine for ourselves, one for our partner or friend and one for the country. We also bid a very fond farewell to one of our longest valued contributors of more than 40 years, WA wine writer Mike Zekulich, who at 84 is retiring from wine writing and definitely deserves to kick back and enjoy a few glasses of the great wine he’s written about over the years! Thanks, Mike, for being a valued and loyal member of the Winestate family. Cheers, Your wine, Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Peter Simic our ports. Major Sponsors and Supporters Australia Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 7

briefs THE VINTAGE FROM HELL Treasury Wine Estates chief executive, Tim Ford, was quoted as saying: “That’s how we’re going to run the business for the THERE were six words in all, only six. But in the powerful West foreseeable future, and we’ve stopped any work on demerger Australian Newspaper morning daily headline, they said it all: The options.” Swan Valley’s vintage from hell. It thundered as the vicious fire burnt up more than 10,000 hectare of land, 86 houses, numerous TOUGHING IT OUT outer buildings, fences, gates, livestock, pets and wildlife on its terrible path to being one of the worst natural disasters to smash IT’S been a tough 12 months for Victorian winemakers with the loss the region. Stunned local wine and table grapegrowers including of tourism, wine sales and an important export market, but in the lead winemaker James Talijancich, who with wife Hilda and parents up to the 2021 vintage one cool climate wine region was fearful of Peter and Mary were evacuated, said they had never seen anything losing its entire crop due to smoke taint. And it wasn’t smoke taint like it in a lifetime in the valley. from bushfires but rather controlled burns in the region by the Victorian state government. James revealed seeing thousands upon thousands of flying red embers – like stars in the night – against the black background of With grapes just weeks away from picking, Forest Fire Management the nearby Darling Ranges along with huge black clouds to the Victoria planned to conduct controlled fires around the region’s Wombat east and north showing where the fire may have started. Forest area in an effort to reduce the risk of future bushfires. At one stage it was estimated burning bits of Australian bush were The decision has caused deep concern among wine producers. said to be more than three kilometres ahead of the fire’s face, the One winemaker, Robert Walters at Place of Changing Winds vineyard wind fanning the searing heat leaving behind devastation that some hired a lawyer in an effort to stop the controlled burns. referred to as a ‘war zone.’ At one stage, the fire was estimated to A spokesperson for the Forest Fire Management was quoted in have had a perimeter of 122km with exhausted fire-fighters and Melbourne media as saying: “Smoke from a bushfire has far greater volunteers doing all they could in the difficult battle. impact on vineyards than smoke from a planned burn.” Swan Valley industry leader John Griffiths said he was picking LOSSES AND GAINS grapes on his vineyard when it was shrouded in smoke. With the help of the WA Agriculture Department unpicked berry samples YALUMBA’S loss is a big gain for one of Australia’s biggest wine were sent to the Australian Wine Research Institute for analysis. producers. “You either sent a sample of grapes or a dry wine for smoke taint Last year, Accolade Wines lured Yalumba senior winemaker, Nat – but we sent both,” he said. John described smoke taint as a bit Cleghorn, to the role of senior winemaker and manager at Katnook like volatile acidity in wine. Estate in Coonawarra. In February of this year, Accolade announced that long-time Yalumba senior winemaker, Teresa Heuzenroeder, “You get to a point where it is noticeable, to becoming unpleasant, would be taking up the role of senior winemaker and manager for like a dirty ashtray,” he said. its Tintara, Petaluma and Croser brands. LIVING IN INTERESTING TIMES Teresa Heuzenroeder will oversee a period of consolidation for Petaluma after Accolade Wines announced that it had outgrown TO borrow from a popular Chinese saying, one of Australia’s biggest wine companies, Treasury Wine Estates, has been living its Adelaide Hills in interesting times. As the country’s largest exporter of branded winery and production wines, it has been badly affected by the protracted trade war was moving to the between Australia and China. In February, it announced a 43% company’s Tintara drop in profits for the first half year, a reflection of the 212% import facility in McLaren Vale. tariffs China levied on Australian wine imports. Accolade has plans for even further growth In response, the company, like other Australian exporters, says of the Petaluma and it is working to open up new markets in Asia and is reinvigorating Croser brands. export efforts in the US and the UK. LETTING IT FLOW The company also had to deal with persistent rumours that it planned to sell off its jewel in the crown, Penfolds wines. The Fairfax THE Barossa Valley and Eden Valley wine industries could be media in February reported that TWE had cancelled a potential the major beneficiaries of an assured supply of additional water demerger and the move was no longer in contention with the following a move by the South Australian government to request company unveiling plans to split its business into three divisions: multi-million-dollar funding for a new feasibility water supply study. Penfolds, Treasury Premium Brands and Treasury Americas. It also reported that TWE would be selling off some of its US assets with The government has already invested $1.5 million into identifying the hope of recouping around $300 million. private sector investors to deliver recycled water to the regions. 8 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

briefs Nearly 3000 people employed in the wine and grape sector in the which was established with a multi-million-dollar government Barossa account for nearly 10 per cent of national wine sector jobs. and region injection in 2018 in order to promote winery tourism locally and internationally. Long term water security is key to the region’s long-term sustainability. The Five Pillars are the Pinot Coast, King Valley Prosecco Road, Rutherglen Fortified Resurgence, Yarra Valley Culinary DEMERGER MOVES AHEAD Destination and Central Region. WOOLWORTHS is back on track with plans to separate from its NEW ENDEAVOUR FOR OAKRIDGE Endeavour Drinks group, which includes the nation-wide Dan Murphy’s and BWS stores. PARAGON Wine Estates of the Endeavour Group has purchased premium Yarra Valley wine producer Oakridge Wines. That The restructure was originally set for early last year but the means Oakridge will be part of a complicated Woolworths advent of COVID put it on hold. The company now has named group ownership structure that includes Dan Murphy's and June this year as its set date for a demerger, a move that will allow BWS stores. Woolworths to focus on its food/supermarket business side. The acquisition of Oakridge Wines includes the brands and the The new schedule was outlined when Woolworths announced its winery, vineyards of 20.8 hectares (with another 16.6 hectares half year results which revealed the impact of COVID on business, leased) and existing grape grower relationships as well as its particularly its hotels. award-winning restaurant and cellar door. For Endeavour Drinks total sales for the half year increased by Oakridge has been owned by Ilana Atlas and her husband 19 per cent to $5.7 billion. COVID continued to drive in-home Tony d’Aloisio since 2007 and has built a formidable reputation consumption, although levels were dropping. for quality under chief winemaker David Bicknell. For Woolworths hotels the news wasn’t as good with sales The addition of Oakridge extends the Paragon Wine Estates declining 27.5 per cent for the half to $667 million. regional coverage with brands across five premium key wine regions in Australia and New Zealand; Oakridge Wines (Yarra POKOLBIN SHINES Valley), Chapel Hill (McLaren Vale), Isabel Estate (Marlborough, NZ); Krondorf (Barossa Valley), and Riddoch (Coonawarra). THE Hunter Valley’s major wine centre, Pokolbin, has beaten some of the biggest names in NSW tourism to be voted the top NSW “We are thrilled to welcome Oakridge Wines to our Paragon destination by the online travel site Wotif.com Aussie Town of the family and look forward to enjoying the magic that the Year Awards. The town went on to take second place nationally. winemaking team led by chief winemaker David Bicknell will create in vintages to come,” said Endeavour Group managing In its fourth year, the awards recognises the top 10 locations director Steve Donohue. across Australia for their contribution to Australian tourism with destinations rated according to quality of accommodation, Bicknell is set to stay, saying: “Personally, it’s great to have affordability and traveller satisfaction. strong support and encouragement to continue 20 years of work at Oakridge, to continue to make wines the way they should be The Top 10 were: Cairns, Pokolbin, Apollo Bay, Mudgee, Lakes made, and to build on our reputation as sustainable farmers. Entrance, McLaren Vale, Hervey Bay, Exmouth, Port Macquarie and The Entrance. “Joining such a large drinks business will enable us to further improve Oakridge’s fine wine credentials and realise the full A GLIMPSE BEHIND THE VINES potential of our vineyards and our team.” IT seems COVID has given some state wine bodies time to be inspired. In February, Wine Victoria, fresh out of LockDown, announced the first state-wide marketing campaign and digital search director for the wine sector. The new Behind The Vines website – vicwines.com.au – is said to be a definitive guide to buying Victorian wine. The website features insider tips from winemakers and a detailed bespoke approach which enables wine drinkers to track down top wine suggestions based on their individual palates. The site offers comprehensive winery information on food and accommodation, sustainable producers or wineries that are pet-friendly and easily accessible for the disabled. The site also celebrates the state’s Five Wine Pillars plan May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs SEEING DOUBLE DOUBLE GOOD NEWS BEC Hardy Wines has announced a new winemaker: Bec THE recent opening of the Mövenpick Hobart Hotel was double Swincer. Swincer brings with her over two decades of winemaking good news for the Tasmanian capital. Not only did it gain experience. much-needed luxury rooms in the city centre, but it also added Tesoro - a new gourmet destination for both locals and visitors. Bec Hardy, the great-great-great granddaughter of Thomas Hardy, known as the ‘Father of South Australian wine’ took the reins Mövenpick is a Swiss brand, known globally for its ice creams from her father Geoff in 2020 to become the owner of Pertaringa, as well as its hotels, but this is its first property in Australia. in its 40th year, whilst Geoff retains ownership of Wines by Geoff There are 221 rooms over levels three to 18, but the hotel has Hardy in the Adelaide Hills featuring the successful brands of K1, a more boutique feel. The rooms feature Tasmanian artworks Handcrafted and GMH. and have fast free wifi, while Tesoro uses local produce with an Italian spin. The staff are multinational and uniformly efficient - In the six months since the transition, she has overhauled the not always a Hobart strength. As is the case in all Movenpick McLaren Vale cellar door, developed a number of new varieties hotels, there is a daily chocolate hour each afternoon with under her eponymous Bec Hardy label, and been chosen by guests offered chocolate-inspired treats, drinks and cocktails. AusTrade as the only South Australian business in its ‘Remarkable Australian Exporter’ showcase. The lobby level is warm and welcoming with plenty of shared spaces, stunning art and plenty of power points, and flows into Bec Swincer has spent time working within leading wineries in the hotel’s eatery, which boasts a broad selection of cocktails Clare Valley, Barossa Valley and the Adelaide Hills, where she was and local and imported wines (think names like Chatto, Holyman winemaker for Petaluma. and Waterton Hall). Web check-in is available. Mövenpick Hotel Hobart boasts a flexible function space for up to 100 guests, She studied Oenology at the University of Adelaide and the which can also be divided into two. The rooms are stylish University of California, Davis and is returning to Australia following and spacious - even in their smallest iteration. The beds are two years working in California, where she was part of an all-female comfortable and the design well thought out with plenty of team at The Prisoner Wine Company. plugs and USB ports at bedside, effective lighting and even a wireless charging port. TVs come with Chromecast so guests “It’s been a rewarding experience working in the US and learning can cast Netflix or Stan from their own devices. Mini bars are about the different approach to winemaking and progressive \"order only\" in these Covid times, while the best views of the techniques that are being introduced there, but it’s great to be able to come back home to Australia and McLaren Vale in particular, with its welcoming community of passionate winemakers,\" Swincer said. \"Having come from an all-female team and as a mother of daughters, it’s really exciting to be part of a brand that celebrates women pushing forward in the industry. \"As Pertaringa and Bec Hardy Wines enter a new era, it’s a huge opportunity for me to make my mark and play a part in something really special. “Joining just before harvest means I’ll be getting stuck in immediately – first up is the pick of the Pertaringa sauvignon blanc. The mild growing season so far is promising fantastic quality for our reds and whites, which is really exciting.” For more details see www.bechardy.com.au. 10 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

briefs Hobart waterfront come from the higher levels - and were superb the distilling pot to create an aromatic and flavour-rich juice. from 1801, where we were lodged. The gin has a rich medicinally flavoured goodness. The Mövenpick entrance lobby - and that of Tesoro - are in the “The Myrcene Hemp Gin has become a staple spirit for so Hobart bus mall precinct, however hotel guests can drive their many households, and the feedback we constantly receive vehicles in for valet parking under a \"local traffic\" exemption. about the beverage is nothing short of amazing,” said Alexandra There are several eating options within a couple of hundred Poznyak, managing director of Treeline Beverages, a division metres, and the waterfront is just a short stroll away. Accor of The Cannabis Company. Pacific CEO, Simon McGrath, said: “Mövenpick Hotel Hobart transcends the traditional hotel experience by masterfully “The cannabis sativa plant is one of the world’s most blending the brand’s Swiss heritage with a premium hospitality restorative botanicals, used by healers for thousands of years. experience. We’re excited to offer a drink that not only tastes good, but also does good, using some of the world’s best-quality hemp grown \"We’re so excited to share this stunning property with guests right here in Australia. visiting Hobart from other parts of Tasmania and Australia. Accor is planning more locations for Mövenpick across the “We are on a mission to promote the natural healing power Pacific and we believe this premium brand will quickly gain of the cannabis plant, challenging the orthodox principles of recognition for its culinary and service excellence.” the big pharmaceutical companies, and Western medicine.” Then there is Tesoro, quickly becoming a favourite with the See www.cannabiscompany.com.au. The Myrcene Hemp Gin locals. The range of Cape Grim steaks, dry-aged in house, are is not intended to be, or consumed as, a medicinal product. a star attraction and bloody delicious, particularly alongside plates of grilled asparagus with black garlic, parmesan, truffle WINE SHINES IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS oil and poached egg. Risottos of locally foraged mushrooms and Tasmanian truffle oil are also popular, along with local AN American winery has launched a new brand that is bottled seafood dishes. The dessert panacotta with Prosecco and wild in \"unbreakable, infinitely recyclable\" aluminium bottles. berries is a star turn. Sonoma County producer Limerick Lane Cellars calls the range Revelshine and says the wines are designed for outdoor Executive Chef Trent Whelan said: “For the team at Tesoro, enjoyment. it’s important we showcase the exceptional produce for which Tasmania is known, along with Italian cuisine. The range comprises a red blend made from zinfandel, shiraz and durif; a chardonnay/grenache blanc blend and a GSM rosé \"Simple food and ingredients sourced through local, with a touch of grenache blanc. sustainable and ethical producers – many of whom we know personally – form the foundation of our food ethos.\" The lightweight packaging was created by New York-based Tesoro is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. See www. tesorohobart.com.au. Mövenpick Hotel Hobart, 28 Elizabeth Street, Hobart TAS 7000. To book, visit www.all.accor.com FEEL GOOD BOTANICALS FANCY a little bit of cannabis infused in your gin? The Cannabis Company’s Myrcene Hemp Gin is billed as a feel-good spirit to warm us up as the weather gets cooler. Myrcene Hemp Gin has an earthy aroma and distinctive earthy flavours as a result of 15 botanicals including juniper, orris, angelica, rosemary, sage, lavender, balanced with a soft touch of myrcene, an active terpene in both hemp and hops. It is known for its restorative and healing properties. Crafted in Healesville in the Yarra Valley, Myrcene Hemp Gin was the first in Australia and is available online via The Cannabis Company and at Dan Murphy’s stores ($99). It is promoted as 100% Australian grown, organic and made using the cannabis sativa plant, grown in Tasmania. The terpenes are added into May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs branding agency Motto and the surfboard, guitar, campfire Hotel General Manger Mark Winterton said: “This is a time when and backpack icons on the back of the bottle emphasise the Australians are exploring their own backyard, so upgrading the hotel's al fresco message. resort facilities is very well-timed by Dr Schwartz. “While my work life has always led me through wine, my “The Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley is now a one-stop destination for passion and love is the outdoors,\" says brand founder Jake families, couples and groups of friends. Our resort offers 414 hotel Bilbro. \"Rivers, mountains, beaches, music festivals – this is rooms and villas, 18-hole championship golf course, two swimming where I find my inspiration. I realised, along with my other pools and Ubika Day Spa.\" friends who are surfers, skiers, kayakers, mountain bikers and musicians, that you just don’t have good wine where we enjoy For more information see www.crowneplazahuntervalley.com.au/ these activities. water-park/ “If you do, it is because you had to go to extraordinary lengths WHEN IN ROME...? to bring it, such as duct taping your bottles or pouring your good wine into inflatable bladders from previous boxed wine. THE brachetto grape is very much a bit-part player in the No matter the bottle, glass does not work on the beach or the diverse and colourful theatre of Italian wine. Brachetto is a river. And that is how Revelshine was created.\" red wine grape grown primarily in Piedmont that dates back to Roman times and Brachetto d'Acqui is made in both still and Bilbro hopes the wines will be \"packed in and packed out, spumante versions. so we can preserve the outdoors for the next generation”. Revelshine has partnered with environmental group “1% for Brachetto tends to produce light-bodied, aromatic wines with the Planet” and is working towards adding more sustainable distinctive notes of candied ripe strawberries. In Brachetto products to the range. d'Acqui it produces a slightly sweet sparkling wine that can be similar to Lambrusco. It has been called a red equivalent of the WHERE WINE MEETS WATER PARK sweetish white Moscato d'Asti. ADVENTURE In recent years, brachetto has found a home at Soumah Wines WHEN Mum and Dad have had their fill of wine tasting and gourmet in the Yarra Valley, where they produce both a still and a frizzante excursions, kids can enjoy themselves at the new heated water park (gently sparkling) version that are both defiantly pink in colour. at Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley Resort. Both wines are low in alcohol and offer brightness, freshness Now open to guests of the hotel, the new Water Splash Park was and delightful summer refreshment when enjoyed lightly chilled. designed and built by White Water Australia and is over two storeys high, complete with an assortment of slides, flutes, showers, water The 2020 Brachetto Frizzante ($28) is described as like cannons and jets designed to entertain the whole family. \"liquid Turkish delight with the sweet flavours of rose water and strawberries\", while the 2020 Brachetto Tranquillo ($32) The Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley - part of the IHG Group - offers the is a lovely aperitif or dessert wine with a remarkably similar most comprehensive collection of kids facilities and activities in the flavour profile. region with the water park adding to a mini-train, carousel, a converted tug boat, the Water Dragons kids club, pony rides and the new Hunter Pizzini, Parish Hill and La Fattoria are among the other Valley Kids Cottage. Australian producers of brachetto. “The Hunter Valley has perhaps been seen more as a destination for For details see www.soumah.com.au. adults wanting to go to wineries, play golf or attend conferences, but we've transformed the Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley into a resort for both FRENCH FLAIR WITH HARBOUR VIEWS discerning adults and children,” said hotel owner Dr Jerry Schwartz. EXECUTIVE chef Eric Costille and his team will call on his French “The missing ingredient in the resort's inventory was a water park, heritage as he launches the new southern French-inspired menu and I'm pleased to say this has really added something substantial to at the Atelier by Sofitel, the signature restaurant at Sofitel Sydney the Hunter Valley's tourism attractions. Darling Harbour. “Importantly, the water is heated through our environmentally-friendly Costille and executive sous chef Gaurav Bide will be presenting Cogen plant that also heats the resort's main pool. The addition of classic French dishes with authentic taste profiles. Costille joined heated water will make it attractive for families visiting during much the hotel in 2018 following a career in Michelin-starred restaurants of the year.” in his native south of France and more recently in several five-star hotels in Asia, has been carefully considering the new culinary vision for the hotel. 12 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

briefs “In a restaurant where creativity is king, culinary inspiration and a menu which will deliver a selection of French classics flows and fresh ingredients are transformed, I believe there is infused with a modern culinary twist.” an opportunity to raise the bar on how our guests and visitors experience hotel dining,\" he said. Think dishes like a plancha of XL Yamba prawns flambéed in Pastis, or whole market fish Niçoise, and Provençal Vegetable, a twist on the \"Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour has a cultural link to traditional Provençal dish, using baked eggplant and spring onions Marseille and, as such, I wanted to take my inspiration from the along with fresh artichoke heart and ratatouille. Atelier's signature Mediterranean and south of France and bring together a kitchen dishes also include an elegant lamb shank navarin and the l'assiette de legumes, a vegan dish served with tofu-olive polenta, glazed yellow endive, king oyster mushroom and confit beetroot ketchup. As part of the new menu, Costille is using a Mibrasa grill that delivers an authentic charcoal barbecue flavour. The wine selection covers France, Australia, New Zealand and Italy and are featured in the 800-bottle wine and Champagne wall that connects Atelier by Sofitel to Sydney's only hotel Champagne Bar. Atelier by Sofitel is open for dinner Thursday to Sunday. Visit www. sofiteldarlingharbour.com. EMBRACING THE DARKNESS AUSTRALIA’S midwinter solstice festival Dark Mofo has announced its 2021 festival will go ahead from June 16-22 in Hobart, Tasmania. The festival was cancelled in 2020 due to Covid-19. “Dark’s back, which, in the immortal words of Mark Spitz, who was also making a comeback, ‘could be good, could be great, could be terrible’,\" said MONA Museum owner and festival guru David Walsh. \"Mark didn’t mention that there is another possibility: it could be cancelled. But it would not be worth doing if there was no risk. There’s lots of risk, so it must really be worth doing.” Leigh Carmichael, Dark Mofo creative director said: “It’s with May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs some trepidation that we announce Dark Mofo will descend in the heart of the Barossa, Fine Acres Estate is close to some of 2021 from June 16-22.” the best restaurants, wineries and produce in South Australia. The homestead is located between the three principal towns “Like everyone else, we have been soul searching for almost of Tanunda, Nuriootpa and Angaston. a year, trying to understand our place in a changed world. Last year we lost our sense of purpose overnight, and it appears The renovation took 18 months to complete and mixes that experience is having a resounding impact on this year's Hamptons-style interior with original 19th-century features to festival program. Our patrons will be pleased to know they can create a private space in a 28-hectare working vineyard. The expect a typically grim and gloomy affair in June.” homestead overlooks the vines and comprises three suites that have been designed to be used as either a communal “This year the festival will run for one week only, making it accommodation space, or, alternatively, can be divided for smaller and more intense.\" separate bookings. It can accommodate between 10 and 14 guests. “We’re dropping all sponsorship activations, as we felt they were having a detrimental effect on the festival. While we have The Indelicato and Chizen suites are designed for larger appreciated the support from many high-profile brands, we groups of up to six people, each fitted with a living space want to be able to pursue our own cultural agenda free from with Smart TVs, a gas fireplace, gourmet kitchen, en-suite restraint and with a renewed commitment to the art.” bathrooms, free wifi and access to the large communal entertaining deck with a gas barbecue that overlooks the This year is the final year of the festival’s five-year agreement vineyard. With room for two guests, the Day suite is perfect with the Tasmanian Government. Dark Mofo’s future beyond for a more intimate getaway with spectacular views from the this event is not clear or guaranteed. bedroom that opens out to a small private deck. “The Hobart City Council have withdrawn financial support “We want to give people the best that Australia’s greatest and this will impact the scope and scale of the Winter Feast, wine region has to offer,” says co-owner Sandy Day. which will be reduced to five nights,\" said Carmichael. “We support the local community wherever possible, with “While our future is a little uncertain, we are optimistic that most of the renovations carried out by local Barossa-based there is enough gunpowder in the barrel to propel us into 2022.” artisans and tradesmen. The full Dark Mofo program was announced in April 2021. “We also have a few pieces of incredible indigenous artwork See www.darkmofo.net.au. on display from talented artists Janet Golder from Utopia in Central Australia and Carolanne Ken from Anangu Pitjantjatjara LATEST BAROSSA LUXURY MIGHTY FINE Yankunytjatjara (APY) Lands of South Australia.” FINE Acres Estate is the latest luxurious accommodation option Fine Acres Estate also offers a unique underground in the Barossa. The newly renovated Barossa homestead, experience, with an original 1870s cellar restored and ready for founded in the 1870s and re-designed by Jamie Gladigau from enjoying a wine tasting experience or dinner among the barrels. JBG Architects, is imagined as an ideal base for exploring the cellar doors of the Barossa region. All guests receive a breakfast hamper upon arrival, full of local Barossa produce, as well as complimentary bottles of Vineyard Road Located in Vine Vale, an hour’s drive from Adelaide and in wine and a selection of chocolates from Barossa Valley Chocolate Company. View more details at www.fineacres.com.au. 14 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

Network with wine Wine packaging webinar Celebrate the best wine packaging suppliers with expert speakers packaging from AU & NZ 2021 Wine Packaging See new tech, products The latest industry Industry judges Event & Design Awards and services developments 6 design categories People’s Choice award PACKWINE is a unique event that will bring Watch videos, Innovative design together wine packagers and designers meet the teams online to showcase their latest innovations to Marketing insights enhance Australian and New Zealand wine products in 2021 and beyond. OPEN FROM LAUNCHING ANNOUNCED The 2021 PACKWINE Forum & Expo will 17 May 24 May 24 May feature three components: a forum to include expert industry speakers, an expo Forum launching 9:30am AEST to feature leading wine packaging suppliers and an awards presentation to highlight 24 MAY 2021 the winning packaging designs of the year. Register to attend FREE now at

briefs MAGNIFICENT MANSFIELD QUALITY EATS WITH a blend of stunning natural beauty, laid-back country vibes and VERA at Beechworth has built a reputation as a quality winery a dab of city chic, Mansfield is right now one of the High Country’s eatery since opening in February. Part of the Glenbosch Estate hottest getaway destinations. winery, but separate from the cellar door, it offers views and lunches from Friday to Mondays. After a tumultuous year, the town (and its surrounding villages of Bonnie Doon, Jamieson and Merrijig) have emerged rejuvenated Vera is also home to regular private functions and receptions. and buzzing with a range of exciting new visitor experiences from The cellar door offers wine and spirit tastings, while the restaurant luxurious accommodation to cool places to eat, drink and explore. features shared plates highlighting local produce. There are two Gourmets can grab a table or takeaway from chef Tristan Keen’s stages of seven savoury plates for $65 per person with the option to Asian-Australian menu at fun and funky new casual bar and eatery, add desert. Think plates like sardines with local apple remoulade; The Fields. Thinks dishes like crispy prawn dumplings with black cured salmon with Glenbosch gin and tonic-pickled cucumbers vinegar and soy, and sesame furikake. and goat meatballs with pepper and tomato ragu and buckwheat polenta. See www.glenbosch.com.au. Swiftcrest Distillery’s Hank and Carrie Thierry hand craft a range of spirits - like Vanilla Bean vodka, Alpine Spring gin SMALL BUT SIGNIFICANT and Dutch Apple Pie moonshine - from local and organic ingredients and offer tours and tastings at their off-grid farm IT may only be a small town but Rutherglen fights well above outside Mansfield. its weight division when it comes to gourmet diversions. This is a historic wine growing area invigorated by a crop of bold BullerRoo at a View To A Hill is perched on a hilltop with young winemakers. Take in stunning gold rush streetscapes, fabulous views across the Barwite Valley to the Broken River. explore the surrounding vineyards, and enjoy outdoor fun in Enjoy luxurious accommodation, incredible night skies and the nearby lakes and rivers. meet cute pygmy goats. You certainly will not go thirsty in Rutherglen, home to world- For nature lovers, Mansfield Glamping offers next-level luxury admired fortified wines, robust reds and crisp white wines since stays in bell tents. Accommodation comes with the options of the early 1800s. Visit revitalised cellar doors and meet fourth a breakfast hamper, gourmet produce platter, locally sourced and fifth generation winemakers drawing on family tradition and wine or artisan barbecue pack. Book for a private massage or modern techniques to keep Rutherglen on the map. Learn about on-site yoga class. winemaking and taste premium wines at the Rutherglen Wine Experience and Visitor Information Centre. Explore the scenic Monnie from Mansfield Bushwalks shares her local knowledge winery circuit in a hired limousine or tour bus or cycle the banks and favourite secret places on fun, tailored pack-free short walks of the Murray River to wineries along the Muscat Trail. and guided scenic tours of Mansfield and surrounds. Or soar high above the landscape in a hot air Global Balloon flight. Hedonistic types can linger at cellar door restaurants like Tuileries at Jolimont Cellars, or settle in at picnic areas among the vines. Visitors to Mansfield can also explore a slice of Australia’s longest Spend long afternoons in country pubs. One “must do” is to save off-road rail trail - the Great Victorian Rail Trail - which starts in room for an iconic Parker pie. Mansfield and traverses a whopping 134km through beautiful rural scenery. The Rutherglen region is the perfect spot for outdoor adventures with the family. Cast a line in the Murray, pedal Coming soon is Delatite Wines’ swanky new cellar door, with along the riverbanks or cruise the waters in boats, canoes incredible, panoramic views straight to Mt Buller. and kayaks. Pick up a bike at St Leonard's Winery and explore the region at your own pace. Join the Pedal to Produce Cycle An easy 2.5 hours from Melbourne, Mansfield is an ideal weekend Trail to sample the wine, fruit and produce at local orchards, getaway destination and is the jumping off point for Mt Buller and Mt wineries and cafes. Stirling winter snow and summer adventures, Lake Eildon, camping, fly fishing, houseboating, guided walks, horse treks and wild hiking. SAVING THE CELEBRATIONS THE 160th birthday celebrations for landmark Victorian winery Tahbilk were put on hold for a third time as a result of Covid-19 lockdowns. Tahbilk, Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery, was established in 1860 on the banks of the Goulburn River in the Nagambie Lakes region. 16 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

briefs Two dates in 2020 - the first in August, then in December - to The Celebrate Italy in the High Country tour costs $2375 per mark the winery's anniversary had to be scrapped and the person twin share inclusive of accommodation in the Colonial Motor Purbrick family also had to abandon celebrations planned for Inn in Bright, all activities and meals with wine. February 22-23. Celebrate Italy in the High Country is one of several new Victoria- \"It's with sadness and much frustration that we have decided based tours introduced by Hedonistic Hiking for 2021. Other to postpone this event for the third time but it's our intention to hiking destinations covered by the new tour collection include reschedule when vaccination roll out has been completed in the Grampians, the Goldfields Track in Central Victoria, and the Australia and we have entered a safe and stable post Covid-19 Great Ocean Walk. Tours are graded 1-5, with 5 being the most era,\" said CEO Alister Purbrick. challenging. All tours have a strong gastronomic focus, featuring wine tastings, picnic lunches that showcase local produce, and \"We'll monitor the current Victorian outbreak and the dinners with outstanding wine. vaccination roll out and confirm our intentions with regard to holding this event around July-August 2021. It's certainly been Hedonistic Hiking was established in 2007 by Anglo-Australian a rollercoaster ride.\" couple, Jackie and Mick Purbrick added: “Clearly the pandemic has affected Tahbilk Parsons, who design, research and lead all the tours in Australia from a travel and tourism perspective, but the Tahbilk team are and Europe. Further completely confident that these unforeseeable circumstances will see Tahbilk come back stronger than ever.” information from www.hedonistichiking.com or call 0428 198 918. TASTE OF ITALY ON OUR DOORSTEP HILTON GIVES HERITAGE A FACELIFT YOU might not be able to go to Italy right now, but you can still HILTON Hotels has opened the doors to a complete revamp enjoy a taste of Europe in the High Country of north-east Victoria of Melbourne's heritage-listed Equity Chambers into Hilton with Hedonistic Hiking. Melbourne Little Queen Street (Hilton Melbourne LQS). Based in Bright, the four-night Celebrate Italy hiking tour Located in the heart of the city, the upscale hotel has been includes wine tastings, dinners with award-winning wines in local designed by leading Australian architecture studio Bates Smart. restaurants, a unique foraging and pasta-making experience and Built in 1931, Melbourne's Equity Chambers was renowned for its perhaps a visit to La Fiera Italian festival in Myrtleford. architectural style and Italian Romanesque and Gothic detailing. A highlight of the tour is a rare opportunity to forage for Its rebirth has original features restored along with a six-level wild mushrooms and learn how to make pasta with one of the extension with a 16-level tower. Within its historic walls, the region's best-loved Italian chefs, Patrizia Simone. Learn the old and new have been combined, with sandstone, European secrets of pasta-making in a hands-on class with Patrizia, oak and bronze materials against the backdrop of grand followed by a delicious lunch in her own home. The celebrated high ceilings, marble stone finishes and upholstery in navy, former restaurateur, cooking school owner and author of 'My taupe and royal blue. External and internal artworks include Umbrian Kitchen', grew up in the Italian region of Umbria. a tribute to the city's thriving graffiti-art scene. The hotel's guest rooms feature prints by Melbourne photographer Roger The tour includes hikes Arnall, commissioned to explore Melbourne architecture in his in the hills above the pretty unique minimalist style. The pieces capture iconic Melbourne country town of Bright and the landmarks including the Royal Exhibition Centre, Flinders Street heritage-listed gold mining Station and Federation Square. village of Wandiligong, and from the plateau of Mount Entered from Bourke Street, Hilton Melbourne LQS's Luci Buffalo to Lake Catani and restaurant and The Douglas Club cocktail bar have their own the iconic Mount Buffalo entrance independent of the hotel's laneway lobby. Executive Chalet. Hiking days range chef Sam Moore has unveiled a classic modern Australian menu, from three to 13km and are accented with hints of Italian and European culinary traditions. punctuated by Hedonistic The Douglas Club replicates a classic cocktail bar. Hiking's trademark picnic lunches, savoured in scenic The hotel will have 244 guest rooms and suites as well as locations at local farms and a large balcony event space with city skyline views, a mural on the shores of Lake Catani. by Kitt Bennett, seven meeting and event spaces and a fully equipped gym. Visit melbournelittlequeenstreet.hilton.com for more information. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 17

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW LAWSON’S DRY HILLS CERTIFIED CARBON HARVEST UNDERWAY ZERO AT the time of press, harvest is well underway throughout New MARLBOROUGH producer Lawson’s Dry Hills gets to celebrate Zealand with vignerons feeling optimistic about the quality their 30th harvest alongside another special milestone – achieving of incoming grapes. After an unsettled spring, the weather carbon zero status. By quantifying and reporting their greenhouse has largely been warm and dry throughout the growing gas emissions and removals, they met the requirements of season, though Central Otago experienced a few temperature ISO14064, receiving Toitu Envirocare accreditation. This builds rollercoasters with snow on the hills occurring in both January upon Lawson’s Dry Hills’ ongoing sustainability efforts – in 2011 and February. March brought significantly cooler overnight they achieved the environmental management system ISO14001, temperatures throughout the country which slowed the currently making them the only New Zealand wine producer to ripening pace, preserving acid, balancing potential alcohols hold both ISOs. General Manager and shareholder, Sion Barnsley and enhancing phenolic development, leaving winemakers comments, “We have always considered sustainability in our enthusiastic about their crop’s health and flavour. Clive Paton of decision-making across the business and to attain carbon zero Ata Rangi in Martinborough says, “It’s shaping up to be a good status is an achievement we are very proud of. Our small team vintage. We’ve had really interesting weather… quite a big have strongly supported our vision and everyone has contributed diurnal shift - the difference between night and day - and that’s to this important milestone.” Group Marketing Manager, Belinda what we like.” Much like the 2020 vintage, the current harvest Jackson adds, “We know how important sustainability is is likely to deliver quality without generous quantities. This becoming for those making purchasing decisions, so we’re may spell some supply-side frustration but for now it presents delighted that our environmental credentials add further value a silver lining in terms of harvest labour. The closed New to those enjoying our wines.” Zealand borders have prevented the usual influx of seasonal RSE workers and backpackers, creating significant ongoing challenges with shortages not only for harvest but throughout in the growing season for pruning and other vineyard tasks. The impact of the closed borders is not only being felt on the production side – the corresponding lack of inbound tourism is also affecting wineries throughout the country in terms of cellar doors and the wider wine tourism trade. Domestic tourism from more New Zealanders travelling throughout the country has plugged some gaps, and many wineries have adapted in a variety of clever ways to the changing times, there’s no denying the months of missing tourists are taking their toll. Now more than ever is a great time to buy the New Zealand wines and producers you love, to visit where and when you can (roll on that trans-Tasman travel bubble!), as handily this is beneficial for both for your own pleasure and also to help ensure all those favourite producers will still be going strong this time next year. 18 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW CERES GOES DICEY significant opportunity in Trinity Hill and look forward to being part of its growth and development in the future.” Founded in FANS of Central Otago producer Ceres need not worry that 1993 as the brainchild of the UK proprietors of London’s famed the label has disappeared, instead it’s simply become a ‘Bleeding Heart’ restaurant, Robyn and Robert Wilson, and little…dicier. Brothers James and Matt Dicey combined their winemaker John Hancock, Trinity Hill was one of the pioneering respective viticulture and winemaking skills making the first wineries that helped put the Gimblett Gravels sub-region on Ceres commercial vintage together in 2006, have now retired the map, and it remains highly-regarded for its wines, syrah in the name in favour of Dicey. The range remains the same, all particular. The winery went through some previous ownership sourced from the three Bannockburn Vineyards, one each ups-and-downs when in 2017, United States investor Charles owned by James and Matt, plus their parents Robin and Banks was sentenced to four years in prison for fraud. Banks Margi. The smart new Dicey packaging reflects the colours was majority shareholder of the Terroir Capital, whose Terroir of the region, the familial connection as well as perhaps Winery Fund had been granted consent in 2014 by the New their natural inclination to shake things up a little. Matt Dicey Zealand Overseas Investment Office (OIO) to acquire a previously held the role of chief winemaker at family business majority shareholding of the winery. The OIO duly removed Mt Difficulty, before its sale to Foley Family Wines in 2019, Bank’s shareholding in Terroir on the basis “of not being of while James continues to run Grape Vision, a viticultural good character” and the Wilson’s re-established control. The contracting company. new owners’ purchase of the winery and its Gimblett Gravels vineyards sees Trinity Hill under New Zealand stewardship and TRINITY HILL NEW OWNERS with a bright future. HAWKE’S Bay’s Trinity Hill has been purchased by a group HAWKE’S BAY WINE AUCTION of private investors and business partners comprising Mitch Plaw, Craig Turner, Mark Sandelin and Michael Nock. The THE Hawke’s Bay Wine Auction celebrates its 30th year with new owners plan for business as usual, and are retaining all 2021’s annual auction being held Saturday 18th September. current staff and vineyards. Plaw says, “Trinity Hill is a fantastic There are 40 unique lots donated by a wide array of Hawke’s company, with an amazing product and team, and a passionate Bay wineries, including large formats (if you’ve ever wanted community of valued customers. We are excited to bring a barrel of your favourite Hawke’s Bay red, this is your Trinity Hill back to a majority New Zealand ownership. We see chance), old, rare and specially-blended wines, alongside a featured artist’s lot - this year a beautiful floral painting by John Lancashire (aka Monday Painter) – and a coveted travel package. Each year, the proceeds benefit the local Cranford Hospice, last year a record-breaking $302,275 was donated. Tickets go on sale July 1st and absentee bidding is welcomed. Stay up to date with info via the auction’s website: www. hawkesbaywineauction.co.nz. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 19

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW SHIFTING BOUNDARIES THE IPCC’s (Intergovernmental panel on Bordeaux Supérieur. This adds to the six used because it ripens late, at a time when climate change) next Climate Change - black and seven white already permitted: the autumn weather of coolish climate Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability report merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet Bordeaux is getting damp and cool. In is not due to be published until later this year, franc, plus bits of carmenere, malbec and the face of climate warming, lateness of but the current, 2014, version was already petit verdot, for black; semillon, sauvignon ripening is increasingly an asset, to avoid unequivocal, “Climate change will change blanc, muscadelle plus a few percent of critical ripening during the increasing heat the geographic distribution of wine grape sauvignon gris, colombard, ugni blanc and of summer. varieties …”, and elsewhere: “Vineyards merlot blanc for white. may be displaced geographically beyond What are these ‘new’ varieties? Touriga their traditional boundaries,” that is, Where European nacional is a mainstay of Portugal’s Douro existing appellation boundaries. In Europe unfortified and fortified wines (Port). A key appellation regulations tend to be much appellations have a asset is its ability to ripen in great heat more prescriptive than in Australian GIs. and keep its acidity. Douro wines from There are rules on which grape varieties can known, reputable, it are already renowned for high quality be grown, what planting density, maximum of flavour, tannin, concentration and yields, and some, also with details on prestigious style, or ageworthiness. winemaking options. range of styles, climate The other reds hail from the broader Climate is a fundamental parameter south west France area in which of ‘terroir’ – the expression of sense of change risks wiping that Bordeaux is located. place. Where European appellations have a known, reputable, prestigious style, or out, along with all the Arinarnoa, a crossing between cabernet range of styles, climate change risks wiping sauvignon and tannat, has been around that out, along with all the heritage and heritage and history for more than half a century. Tannat is history associated with classic regions. another high acid variety, plentifully tannic, Bordeaux and Champagne arguably top associated with classic late-ripener, already renowned for making such a pre-eminent list. Both have been ageworthy wines in its home of Madiran. Its researching for some years on how best regions. thick skins and loose clusters enable it to to preserve their identities in a climate resist grey rot (botrytis bunch rot) rather well. changed world. Bordeaux is the first to The new permitted black grapes are: change some of the rules. arinarnoa, castets, marselan and touriga Castets, described in Robinson, Harding nacional, plus white alvarinho and liliorila. I and Vouillamoz’ ‘Wine Grapes’ book as After more than a decade of research doubt too many professionals have heard of a “very minor western Pyrenean variety on experimental plantings in Bordeaux of some of these. Varying degrees of disease clinging on in France” may just have been 52 different grape varieties from various, resistance, drought-tolerance, acidity given a new lease of life. It also shows mainly Mediterranean countries, at the retention and lateness of ripening were decent resistance to the three key diseases beginning of this year INAO, the French important deciding factors. Indeed, high of European viticulture grey rot, powdery National Institute of Quality and Origin, quality, perfumed, powerfully-structured mildew and downy mildew. Deep colour that oversees and regulates protected petit verdot, a long time original member seems to be a key wine attribute. appellations, (all agricultural and food of approved grape varieties, has already products, including wine), gave official seen big increases in plantings (from a tiny Marselan has already been gaining a little approval to four additional black and two base) in recent years. It was previously little ground, mainly in southern France. It is a white grape varieties for two Bordeaux cabernet sauvignon crossing with grenache, appellations: (generic) Bordeaux and also bred more than 50 years ago. Like arinarnoa, it combines quality attributes – in this case: deep colour, perfume, supple tannin – with needed viticultural attributes – 20 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

late ripening, and resistant to both powdery impossible? This fundamental conundrum Perfectly mildew and grey rot. will play out, in ways we may not yet be able balanced. to imagine, over the next 20 to 30 years. For the whites, alvarinho is another DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, Portuguese (and Spanish, where it is known Further north (cooler in the northern yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. as albarino) variety, appreciated for its hemisphere) Champagne also started Our bold service offering is built on tolerance of grey rot. Alvarinho is the name researching more than a decade ago, a full-bodied foundation of vast already listed by the French authorities. It also, notably, on future-proofing grape general commercial experience, yet is able to ripen at relatively modest sugar varieties. The urgency is arguably greater: overlaid with distinctive specialist levels, while retaining both good aromas the crisp, racy, sparkling style has modest expertise in a number of key and levels of acidity. Liliorila was bred at temperature ‘flexibility’ in retaining its strict, industries and niche market the same time as arinarnoa, in this case signature, sense of place. Added to which, sectors. between baroque (a specialty grape of while global average temperature has It’s a winning combination that a small appellation in SW France) and increased by 0.8ºC since the second half of allows every client who opens a chardonnay. Its aromatic concentration has the 1800s (IPCC definition of ‘pre-industrial “case” to get exactly what they won favour over its rather low acidity and times’), the Champagne appellation’s 2019 need. So whatever your business early ripening demeanour. report ‘Climate change – adaptation in the or legal objectives, don’t hesitate Champagne region’ identified the region’s to contact us. The Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur temperature is increasing at a faster rate: At DW Fox Tucker, every appellations account for about half of all compared to the 30-year average to 1990, client matters. Bordeaux production – but not the really the region’s temperature has increased by posh, expensive, stuff. The grapes will be an average of 1.1ºC. L14, 100 King William Street limited to a maximum of 10% of any wine Adelaide SA 5000 blend, and may be in wines from 2024. Of As in Bordeaux, there are more already- p: +61 8 8124 1811 course, all things are subject to change permitted grape varieties for Champagne according to how well this list achieves the than many people are likely familiar with. e: [email protected] aims of retaining a familiar style and quality Alongside classic pinot noir, chardonnay dwfoxtucker.com.au range of Bordeaux wines. and meunier, another four varieties make up the final less than 1% of Champagne COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES One of the most pressing issues driving plantings: pinot blanc, arbane, petit meslier ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY change in Bordeaux concerns merlot, which and pinot gris. Since 2014, arbane and petit is particularly susceptible to increasing meslier have been involved in crossbreeding INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY temperature, not least because it is relatively programmes, along with the main three RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES early ripening. As ripening becomes earlier, varieties, plus gouais blanc (a parent of SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS towards the heat of the season rather than both chardonnay and petit meslier) to COMPENSATION during the cooling end of season, merlot breed, eventually, four or five varieties that readily produces high sugars (alcohol), at can help to uphold the vinous identity and the cost of both acid levels and aromatic integrity of Champagne in a warming world. potential. The significance is magnified As in Bordeaux, ripening period, disease because merlot comprises about 60% of tolerance and wine quality attributes are the total Bordeaux vineyard area. Merlot’s among the selection criteria. It’s estimated imprint on key Bordeaux blends is strong, that the Champenois may be another ten especially right bank appellations, including years away from completing this element St. Emilion and Pomerol. What happens of their research. to Bordeaux’ identity if merlot becomes May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 21 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY TEMPRANILLO FLYING SOLO TEMPRANILLO has probably more after – it can take a bit to get good tannin I asked Frank what first attracted him synonyms than any other grape variety. ripeness.” Birds also like tempranillo. to plant it. “Originally I was attracted to It is Spain’s most popular black grape “We net it all, but they still try to find their it because it was different, but now the found in many regions, but especially way in,” Frank sighs. So, there are a few appeal lies in how well we find it suits famous in Rioja, where it can be blended seasonal challenges facing growers, but our site. It does work well in a variety of with garnacha, mazuelo (AKA carignan) it can start even earlier with planting the regions, but I think it excels in continental and graciano. In the higher altitude right clonal material. Frank explains, “We climates. You don’t get the same cherry- cooler Ribera del Duero region, it is originally planted D8V12 from Victoria cola/savoury aromatics in any other known as Tinto Fino or Tinta Fina, and and that had leafroll virus type 5, so we variety I’ve met, and it can make wines is blended with cabernet sauvignon. of the sort of structure and power that Here you can find some of Spain’s most Generally, tempranillo only a handful of other varieties can sought-after wines such as Vega Sicilia achieve.” Canberra District’s generally and Dominio de Pingus. Widespread produces medium-bodied cool climate means that the grape can plantings are increasingly found in retain its acidity and produce more Portugal where it makes a dry red under wines with soft acidity. elegant styles. This, coupled together the synonym of, again, Tinto Fino and with the red volcanic and limestone soils, Aragonez. Travel to other parts of Spain It displays fruity black make it an interesting site for the grape and it is known as Tinta Madrid, Tinta and not dissimilar to Northern Spain. del Pais and Tinta de Toro. In Australia, cherry character and plain old tempranillo remains one of the Generally, tempranillo produces fringe alternative grape varieties and if has high levels of medium-bodied wines with soft acidity. you search academic work prior to 1990 It displays fruity black cherry character there is little reference to it being planted. glycerine which produces and has high levels of glycerine which produces a silky texture. Tannins are Temprano means early in Spanish which a silky texture. generally moderate to high. Australia is maybe how the grape variety got its produces a number of different styles name as it ripens early. The vine can replaced it with clean material from South from unwooded fruit driven wines to either be trellised or grown as a bush Australia of the same clone. We now have serious oak matured, structured and vine. Cropping levels can vary, but for several other clones as well, but D8V12 age worthy styles. Strict water control Frank van de Loo, viticulturist turned is the bulk of what we make and we are is essential to restrict the size of the winemaker at Mount Majura Vineyard very happy with it.” Mount Majura started berries to obtain good quality fruit. in the Canberra District, they are low. making wine in 2003 from the young vines When grown on fertile soils the wines “There is sensitivity to powdery mildew, but it wasn’t until 2013 that the vineyard can be light bodied with red fruits, but we usually manage that without had matured enough to produce single restricting the yield and water produces much trouble. In some seasons we wish site bottlings. It is a long process and more fleshy medium bodied wines with the canopy would hold off senescing under appreciated by most drinkers. better tannins. In cool climates the wines (leaves turning autumnal) a little longer display more spice and savoury notes in order to get the ripeness that we’re and more tannin again. 22 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. The Rioja region produces wines that own as a varietal here. “Our wines have Winestate Magazine show the special side of tempranillo. To a good level of acidity which is often a @WinestateEd be labelled a Gran Reserva, for instance, bit soft in Rioja where it is balanced by it must first be from a great vintage and the addition of garnacha and graciano,” then undergo five years of aging before explains Phil. Frank makes a blend called release, including a whopping two years TSG. “We’re not trying to copy a Rioja in either French or American barriques. blend, and other producers are having Traditionally these wines would have a success with partners like touriga, shiraz dusty or tobacco character, however, and even cabernet, so there are no rules. these days, you are more likely to find In our TSG blend, tempranillo gives some primary fruit still there. Crianza dark fruits and savouriness and grainy and Joven style wines are released with tannins, while shiraz gives some mid- less and sometimes no oak and are palate flesh and graciano gives spice designed to be drunk young and fresh and lift. I would love to try co-fermenting and are more popular. It is a significantly them, but they ripen too far apart.” large viticultural area with a massive 66,000 hectares of plantings spread I’m torn between tempranillo as a single over the three zones of Alta, Alavesa variety or a blend, and whilst there is and Oriental. The last zone was called an argument, and often I agree with the Baja up until 2017 when the name was saying, the whole is greater than the changed. In Spanish Baja means a drop sum of its parts, tempranillo has enough or fall, denoting it is the lower of the three character to fly solo. regions. This faint reference upset some producers. However, far from solving the problem, the new name has sparked more complaints! Tempranillo is planted in around 88% of all vineyards with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano making up the rest. The habit of blending sub- regions was entrenched up until 2019 when the local Consejo Regulador finally allowed single vineyard wines (Viñedo Singular) to be recognised on the label. It makes me question why we don’t see more tempranillo blends in Australia? Master of Wine Phil Reedman thinks that the grape works well enough on its May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 23

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING GOING FOR GOLD - EATING AND DRINKING WELL IN AUSTRALIA'S NUMBER ONE TOURIST DESTINATION WITH the Federal government's half- winning waterfront property that has more at home, The Roosevelt Lounge in price air tickets up for grabs and the long been popular because of its multi- Broadbeach picked up the Best Small Bar arrival of winter, few regions are as million-dollar fit-out and amazing views in Queensland gong in 2018. I'd come alluring as Australia's number one over Marina Mirage at Main Beach. It here just for the signature cocktails such holiday destination - the Gold Coast. could take a while to peruse the 18- as Black Forest Manhattan and Nitro Pop, Over the past few years, the GC, as page wine list and cocktail listings. Join but the gin selection is a true drawcard. locals call it, has become a hub of the sundowner crowd for a G&T pairing Craft gins from all over Australia, the UK, sophisticated restaurants, regular bars guide, Aussie bottlings from every Sweden and Japan can be teamed with and wine bars that are light years away state or a bottle of Les Terres Blanche Fever Tree Tonics. Confronted by the book- from its family-friendly dining image. Rothschild from St Emilion if you are thick drinks list of whiskies and wines, you feeling flush. might find yourself popping in daily during The area's fast-expanding wine bar your stay. scene is the best place to start a week- The area's fast-expanding long journey of discovery. If natural If great food and wine are top of your and small-batch producer labels are wine bar scene is the vacation must-haves, the Gold Coast your druthers, head for Rosella's in sports a laundry list of options these Burleigh Heads. The decor is a deep best place to start a days. Orzo at The Oracle resort in dive into Australiana with native animal Broadbeach hits the spot with its modern prints and Aussie floral arrangements week-long journey of Italian menu, starting with housemade and contemporary menu classics like focaccia and whipped ricotta through Tasmanian beef tartare and Balmain discovery. starters like smoked burrata, asparagus, bug and king prawn cocktail. Available carasau bread and chili oil, ravioli stuffed by the bottle or glass, a large selection The wine list at Moo Moo The Wine Bar with Moreton bay bugs with chicken of natural, minimal intervention and + Grill in Broadbeach has been tapped beurre blanc and an exceptional cheese biodynamic wines are on offer, in addition several times in the Australian Wine List selection. The Italian-dominated wine list to some top-class Aussie pet nats. of the Year Awards. A hefty 23 pages reaches its pinnacle in the Vina Riserva veer through expertly made cocktails, a bottlings such as Bruno Rocca Rabaja With an Italian oenoteca air, Mr P.P.s Deli global and local beer call and a seriously Barbaresco 2016. and Rooftop Bar in Southport specialises good champagne and sparkling wine in gourmet pizzas, pastas, deli meats lineup. Whites, reds and rosés from all Jimmy Wah's in Burleigh Heads is a and cheese platters. The site of an old over the world go well with some of the knockout. Chef Jake Cooley set off on post office and postmaster-general's best steaks on the Gold Coast, including a five-week motorcycle tour of Vietnam residence for over 100 years, the multi- the signature spice rubbed 1kg wagyu and came back inspired to create one of level building offers great views from the rump roast. the finest modern Vietnamese menus in outdoor rooftop. Just the place to toast the country. Think wok tossed squid, ong sunset with a glass of Australian, French, If sink-into leather Chesterfield lounges choy, chilli and lime and half-chicken, Italian or New Zealand wine. and red velvet banquettes make you feel morning glory, kaffir lime, tamarind and coconut cream. The wine list is equally Boaties will enjoy a tipple at Glass good. Major international names mix it Dining and Lounge Bar, an award- 24 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. with boutique wines and the staff are very With balmy temperatures even in winter, Winestate Magazine helpful in offering suggestions for wine locals love their beer. The Lucky Squire @WinestateEd and food pairings. in Broadbeach, which opened last June, is the Gold Coast's first James Squire Miss Mee at Nobby Beach took over brewery. One of the largest venues to from Hellenika, long a standout of the open its doors in some time, the two Gold Coast dining scene which shuttered levels feature a microbrewery, bar and its doors in 2019. Southeast Asia is restaurant that can accommodate 450 also the main focus here in the big and people. Sharing is the guiding force small sharing plates, including rice and behind the food menu, designed to go noodles, wagyu beef dumplings and with the beers on tap, from mushroom pork hock deep-fried with master sauce. and truffle arancini to wood-fired whole Wines vary from high-quality reasonable chicken. to the Ultra-Premium Back Vintage lineup, featuring 2008 Louis Roederer Bobs Beer, a recently opened brewery, Cristal and 2013 Le Ragnaie Fornace brewhouse and restaurant is just steps Sangiovese. The great fit-out pumps up from the beach at Surfers Paradise. The the buzzy atmosphere. name is an acronym of best of beers, not the owner's name. There are core beers Speaking of whisky, the Gold Coast on tap beefed up with seasonal and delivers for malt and blend lovers, too. limited-edition brews. A range of ANZ The Scottish Prince at Palm Beach has a \"guest beers\" adds even more interest bar lined with 150-plus whiskies. Named for the suds lover. after an ill-fated ship that ran aground nearby, it is not to be missed for its But for one of the most jaw-dropping British-tinged menu, including haggis views of the area, make a beeline for bon bons and Scotch fillet with buttery the Burleigh Pavilion in Burleigh Heads. mashed potatoes. Known locally as the Pav, you can dine on the terrace, eat at the Tropic with its The Whisky Lounge in Mudgeeraba expertly cooked seafood menu or raise a rightly bills itself as the place to come glass of Moet to the stunning panorama for a truly global whisky experience. A before your eyes. highlight is the whisky flights featuring a strong lineup from Talisker whiskies from the Isle of Skye to strictly 18-year-olds whiskies from some of Scotland's great names. Over 130 whiskies from Australia, Canada, Scotland, Ireland, the US and Japan make a drive here more than worth the effort. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 25

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FROM BRASHFBinEeGWINNiInNeGs S TO Brash Road Vineyards continue their soaring success story MIKE ZEKULICH ONE of Margaret River’s newer labels is as the new label is self-explanatory, “the are surrounded by Jarrah, Marri and State rapidly building a quality name for itself. text deals with the vineyard; the wine and forest forming a huge natural wind break in Called the Brash Road Vineyard taken from other significant label matters based on what times of severe wind.” a road adjacent to their 50hectare property, others are telling us constantly. It appears principals – Chris and Anne Carter –have our Brash Road Vineyard is considered to be Chris said textbook soil profiles are a won numerous awards including a host in the top 10-20% of vineyards in Margaret perfect combination of gravel and loam over of four- and five-star entries in judging for River – a claim which is supported by our deep clay. “While we aren’t in Wilyabrup, Winestate in little more than a decade. grape grading where we are receiving the we have strong sections of Wilyabrup soils highest ‘A’ on our cabernet, shiraz, malbec featuring throughout the property. These The couple are both from non fine wine and chardonnay,” Chris said. gravel/loam soils result in grapes growing backgrounds but that has done little to in what is a virtual hydroponic environment. impede their progress. In addition, the “This is due to the climate, which we all quality wines they produce can be found benefit from, but our position is high on the “Block selection has been a 20-year labour under other high-profile labels which Naturalist Ridge creating a further level of of love (and money),” Chris elaborated. have made a significant positive impact micro-climate that generates beautiful cool “Over the two decades, we have planted, to their business bottom line. nights balancing the warm temperate days. replanted and grafted to the stage where we If there is a breeze, we will get it no matter now have each variety growing in its perfect A subtle change to its bottle label has seen what the direction. property location. it become the Brash Road Vineyard instead of the previously branded Brash Vineyard. “The altitude of vineyard is what we “Shiraz is planted on a south facing slope, believe is a key factor in the quality of fruit. at the bottom of that slope. A beautifully Chris Carter says the reasoning was to While the vines are high on the ridge they protected environment from vine rows that avoid the constant question ‘why Brash?’ were several metres wider than normal May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 27

has allowed extra sunlight to penetrate the received four stars but also won Gold at the Previous pages: Reflection at sunset. canopy because of the southern aspect. Margaret River Wine Show while the 2019 Above and opposite: Brash vineyard, Western Australia. Shiraz also received four-stars as a very A selection of Brash Road Vineyard wines. “The original chardonnay block was pulled young wine. out in 2005 and replanted to Houghton Top left and right: Native birds in the Brash property. Clone Cabernet. This was because the Brash’s cabernet history has also been well early flowering nature of chardonnay saw received since its first vintage in 2013. the flowers exposed to early spring winds and storms. The cabernet vines flower As well the Brash Sauvignon Blanc is now several weeks after that and the change recognised in the top 5 SB’s coming out of WA of block has provided us with a cabernet and even from Australia. It has won trophies super-block which produced the Brash at Royal Sydney, Royal Perth and WA Wine Road Vineyard Cabernets. Shows but was not shown this year because it was sold out. “Chardonnay was replanted at a higher altitude in a near-perfect amphitheatre of The cabernets and shiraz wines are both jarrah and marri trees, providing all the blessed with 16 months on new and used protection it needs. Merlot was grafted over to French oak in their making and are totally cabernet in recent years as we simply did not varietal from 100% single Brash Road get a good yield from merlot vines and there Vineyard. Keeping a sharp eye on these styles is a very small market for merlot.” as they mature is winemaker Bruce Dukes. Chris says professional input over the entire His comment: “The fruit delivered was so life of the vineyard has been the responsibility good it is merely nursed through a proven of highly respected viticulturist Andy Ferreira process each year with minimal intervention”. acting as Brash’s viticulturist. It has been his Chris concluded that Brash only makes 1250 observations and advice that has driven them cases a year representing 10% of what it to become a premier Margaret River vineyard. grows. Each year, they take fruit from the same “Whether it be large changes such as change identified vineyard rows, avoiding chopping of block sites through to minor changes that and changing to ensure their wines are truly a saw us dropping flowers in 2015 to balance reflection of picking time and source. a forecast reduced canopy – his input has been invaluable,” remarked Chris. In short, the Brash Road Vineyard can be summed up as a small boutique producer THE WINES creating super-premium wines at Margaret TWO leaders have been the 2018 Shiraz and River in very small quantities. The wines are the cabernet of the same vintage – both five the product of a very special site that has stars Winestate winners and top or equal been refined over the past 20 years to be now top in their category. The 2019 Chardonnay producing at its peak. They are wines for the ages that will reward any good cellar. 28 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

“The altitude of vineyard is what we believe is a key factor in the quality of fruit. While the vines are high on the ridge they are surrounded by Jarrah, Marri and State forest forming a huge natural wind break in times of severe wind.” May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 29

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STELLAR STANDOUT IN A MOUNTAIN OF WINE Highland Heritage Estate continues its stratospheric success CHARLES GENT ORANGE, the wine region located on a plateau 120 kilometres Rex, son to Carmelo’s son Leo, was sent off to South Australia to west of the Blue Mountains and dominated by the 1500-metre study a Bachelor of Applied Science in Oenology at Roseworthy peak of extinct volcano Mount Canobolas, is among Australia’s Agricultural College immediately after finishing school in 1978. highest altitude winegrowing areas. The term “cool climate” is very literal here: it is not uncommon for the cellar doors of “Roseworthy had its own winery and distillery and was rated as Orange’s 20-odd wineries to display photos of their vineyards one of the great wine courses of the world, along with UC Davis, under a blanket of snow. Stellenbosch and Bordeaux,” Rex says. Rex D’Aquino of Highland Heritage Estate remembers winter Rex did his practical placements at Orlando in the Barossa terms at the local primary school in the 1960s being interrupted and at Jim Barry’s in Clare. On graduation, he found himself by closures due to falls of up to a foot of snow. And while climate part of the wave of young winemakers who were to play Cupid change has since rendered such extremes of cold weather less to the Australian public’s burgeoning love affair with table wine. frequent, savage frosts remain one of the major challenges A number of other influential New South Wales winemakers, for the region’s grapegrowers: Highland Heritage’s vineyards including Philip Shaw, Mike DeGaris and John Hordern, are equipped with sprinklers, not for irrigation, but to keep the graduated from Roseworthy at around the same time. depredations of frost at bay. Back in Orange, Rex initially followed Carmelo’s model, shipping “It’s not unusual for us to get frosts in about nine out of 10 in grapes from areas such as Cowra to make riesling and muscat. years,” Rex says. “Last year, we had frosts up to mid-December, But in 1991, with Orange’s reputation as a producer of high-quality which is crazy.” table wine beginning to gather momentum, the D’Aquino family bought the Highland Heritage Estate property, and began a Rex D’Aquino’s grandfather, Carmelo, was a post-First World rapid expansion of its modest vineyards. The estate, which sits War immigrant from Sicily who moved from Sydney to Orange in at around 980 metres above sea level, now boasts nearly 15 1946 to establish a liquor retail and distribution business. The hectares under vines, divided between the varieties of sauvignon early trade, with its minimum two-gallon licence, was largely in blanc, riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, shiraz and merlot, with beer and fortified wines, the favourite tipples of the time. Carmelo cabernet franc and prosecco as the latest entries. also set up a winery, using grapes bought from nearby vineyards at Nashdale and Canowindra to make his own wines from muscat Asked to pick Highland Heritage Estate’s flagship wines – and table grapes. it’s akin to asking a parent which is their favourite child – Rex D’Aquino nominates the much-awarded 2019 Mt Canobolas May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 31

\"Asked to pick Highland Heritage Orange Riesling (he also has high hopes for its successor) and Estate’s flagship wines – it’s akin the 2017 release of the Patronas Orange Cuvee Brut, a sparkling to asking a parent which is their pinot chardonnay. Both wines have picked up five-star ratings in favourite child.\" Winestate reviews. Despite the uncertainties that currently beset Australian wine production, Rex says that Orange has, in recent years, “gone nuts”. “There’s a lot of really good wine, and the next generation of very talented young winemakers is coming through. Our wine reputation is getting better and better – we keep kicking goals and winning awards. It’s all small volume stuff – there’s no thousands of acres here, and the actual GI of Orange is quite tight. “I think Orange is going to have a long history. Even with global warming adding a couple of degrees of heat, our wines are going to be great.” At 62, Rex D’Aquino is busier than ever, dividing his time between the winery and the D’Aquino Group’s wholesale liquor business, with its seven retail outlets. Rex says that the continuing tariff standoff with China has had little direct effect on Highland Heritage Estate, as they sold none of their premium wine into the Chinese market. He says it is, however, a timely reminder of the constant change in the wine industry and the consequent need for adaptation. “The world keeps changing, whether you like it or not,” Rex says. “Going forward, I think it’s important to look after your local business, because people come to Orange and the locals recommend them where to go. You have to look after your domestic business, your own backyard, too. You have to push it and work it – it doesn’t happen by itself. You’ve got to be, as I call it, on the tools all the time: talking to people, pushing the brand, getting in people’s faces. “Everyone’s making good wine – you’ve got to try and stand out somehow.” 32 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 33

winestatepromotion THE 2020 AUSTRIAN WINE VINTAGE A CHALLENGING, YET REWARDING YEAR 2020 will be remembered as a growing season of opposites, in which rain followed sun and cold followed warmth. Combined with the specific features of the regions, this called for a great deal of intuition and patience from winegrowers. And they have been rewarded – we can expect some invigoratingly fresh whites, finely balanced reds and some sweet rarities. Despite the 2020 growing season varying significantly between the individual winegrowing regions, fresh, aromatic, lighter white wines with a vibrant structure are emerging this year. In other words, a classic “Austrian” vintage. The picture is a little more nuanced for red wines, as high physiological grape ripeness in some red wine heartlands is raising hopes for very high quality with moderate alcohol content. 34 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

EVER-CHANGING WEATHER CONDITIONS NIEDERÖSTERREICH & WIEN: A BROAD SPECTRUM After a dry winter that barely earned its name, some areas experienced a slight delay in budding. A very warm and sunny In Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) and Wien (Vienna), very fresh April did little to accelerate development as it was accompanied and fruity wines are expected with a slightly lower alcohol content in many places by extreme dryness that lasted for weeks. A few and more pronounced acidity than in recent years. frosty nights caused damage in inconvenient locations but overall, this was insignificant. May saw great amounts of rainfall, and June The typical characteristics of the grape varieties are expressed was also very damp and changeable. Flowering occurred at the well, both in the flagship Grüner Veltliner and in the Rieslings and usual average time and was generally unproblematic, although the Pinot family. It could be a little more difficult for bouquet wines there was occasional coulure in some grape varieties. like Muskateller and Traminer to show off their full potential. Klassik wines and Gebietsweine (regional wines) should turn out to be A good old-fashioned summer followed, characterised by very pleasant as they combine bold freshness and clear fruitiness alternating sunny and rainy periods, with neither long heatwaves with invigorating, non-aggressive acidity. The performance of the nor temperature spikes. In any case, the frequent precipitation white Reserve wines is eagerly anticipated. Due to meticulous led to strong plant growth and high disease pressure, so careful selection in 2020, only small volumes of these could be produced. pruning work and good aeration of the grape zone were important Here, we can hope for Riedenweine (single-vineyard wines) and to combat the spread of fungal diseases. By mid-August, the premium wines with balance, precision, structure and stability for vineyards were in very good shape. However, some regions then longer storage. saw localised hailstorms, which caused serious damage in certain areas of the Wachau, Kremstal and Traisental; some viticultural The key red winegrowing regions of Thermenregion and towns in Burgenland and Steiermark were also affected. Carnuntum are expecting fruity, somewhat lighter and elegant red wines with all grape varieties and categories represented; the September was also a month of contrasts. On the one hand, there best wines could match the delicate fruitiness of the 2016 vintage. were as many sunshine hours as in a summer month and equally Alongside Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, Sankt Laurent and Pinot high daytime temperatures; on the other hand, many places saw Noir are especially promising. prolonged heavy rain towards the end of the month with record precipitation levels. Winemakers had quite a job on their hands to Above: Changing weather in Wagram ob der Traisen (Traisental). keep their grapes healthy in the warm, damp weather. Relatively low Photo credit: AWMB / Marcus Wiesner. night-time temperatures had a positive effect on aroma formation Left: View on the Kahlenbergerdorf on the border of Wien and Niederösterreich. and acidity. The main harvest began in early September and mainly continued in very good conditions until late October. Even outside the winegrowing regions affected by hail, meticulous selection and the associated cost-intensive harvesting process was required. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 35

BLESSED BURGENLAND? According to numerous reports and initial tastings, Burgenland could be one of the winners in the current vintage. On the one hand, the heavy autumn rainfall did not reach the wine villages on Lake Neusiedl at all and had precious little effect in central and southern Burgenland. On the other hand, the region was able to reap above-average benefits of early grape ripening caused by the climatic conditions. As a result, the main harvest around Lake Neusiedl was completed before the weather changed in the second half of September. The only downside came in the form of several localised hailstorms. The 2020 white wines from all grape varieties are characterised by a mature, harmonious flavour, which is enhanced by a zesty acidity, making expectations of Leithaberg and similar wines high. Expectations are also high for all Burgenland appellations with regard to red wine quality. As is always the case in cooler years, it was important to reduce the yield accordingly in 2020. In the best cases, it should be possible to produce red wines of cool elegance and soft fruitiness, which may be comparable with those of 2016. Overall, we can expect well balanced Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch of astounding maturity, while the French varieties from suitable locations could also draw attention. It is still a little early to make any predictions regarding dessert wines. However, late yet noble sweet rarities like Ruster Ausbruch DAC and Neusiedlersee DAC could be obtained, albeit in smaller quantities. Occasional overnight frosts have even enabled the pressing of Eiswein. 36 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

STYRIAN, THROUGH AND THROUGH SURPRISING BERGLAND Steiermark’s lighter white Gebietsweine will undoubtedly display All-round satisfaction was expressed this year in Bergland, which regional typicity. Wine connoisseurs can look forward to crisp, fresh is comprised of a variety of winegrowing enclaves. Welschriesling, Muskatellers and Sauvignons that combine pure, varietally typical fruitiness with zest. Just like the denser Ortsweine Winegrowers from Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) are reporting (villages wines) and Riedenweine (single-vineyard wines), these also an extremely successful vintage, completely unimpaired by the have those features that make them so distinct. vagaries of the weather. Accordingly, mature and intense wines full of juice and strength are expected. In Steiermark too, the rainy low-pressure area in September was a turning point and caused interruptions to the harvest. Those who had Similarly pleasing news is also coming from Kärnten the nerve to wait a while after the rain before resuming the harvest (Carinthia), where an equally pleasant autumn followed abundant were rewarded with a wonderfully sunny October, which allowed precipitation in spring and summer to ensure satisfying maturity grapes to ripen to perfection. Of course, precise selection was then and distinctive aromatics. With higher acidity, the quantity and essential to bring in a healthy grape harvest, with the associated loss sugar gradation are lower than last year, but dynamic wines for of volume. So, it was possible to harvest those very Riedenweine that easy drinking are assured. are responsible for the high renown of the Steiermark wine producers. In the Tyrolean and Vorarlberg vineyards in far-west Austria, The Steiermark flagship Sauvignon Blanc should turn out to be prudent plant protection was more important than ever to ward especially attractive and characteristic as it naturally benefits from a off infestation by downy mildew (Peronospora) and powdery good supply of water. After the wait mentioned previously, the Pinot mildew (Oidium). Thorough defoliation of the grape zone was family has also performed at a good level, and this is also true of the required to prevent Botrytis cinerea. The Alpine föhn winds that Rieslings in Sausal. In some cases, it may be a little more difficult for are typical here in autumn almost failed to materialise in 2020; the Muskateller, as the appearance of the spotted-wing drosophila however, by mid to late October, the harvest of mature grapes of occasionally forced an undesirable early harvest. Overall, the above-average quality could be completed. Steiermark whites could reach a profile similar to that achieved by the 2013 wines and the 2016 wines that were unfortunately only available Above: The Aunberg in Tieschen in Vulkanland Steiermark. in smaller quantities. Photo credit: AWMB / Marcus Wiesner. Left middle: Vineyards near Feldkirch in Vorarlberg (Bergland). The same is also true for Schilcher from Weststeiermark, which after Photo credit: AWMB / Marcus Wiesner. several years characterised by high maturity has returned to featuring Left bottom: The vineyard chapel near Neckenmarkt in Mittelburgenland. somewhat more typical freshness and zest, as well as a ligther body. Photo credit Robert Herbst. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 37

38 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

ZEK’S SWANSONG WA Industry stalwart, Mike Zekulich, hangs up his Tastevin BERNHARD SIMS LONG-TIME award-winning West Australian wine writer Mike The first commercial wine produced in WA is acknowledged as Zekulich has decided to retire after more than 40 years as being from the 1834 vintage at Olive Farm – then owned by botanist Winestate’s regular WA contributor. Now aged 84, and still loving settler Thomas Waters. the task, Mike however, now feels it is time to hang up the Tastevin and just enjoy the industry wherever he may be. It was presented at the annual general meeting of the Agricultural Society where it was much lauded drawing the comment it was The decision to take a step back and devote time to more hoped production of the wine would be increased such that bottles leisurely pursuits was inspired by a recent trip with a small group could be placed on every table in the Colony. of dedicated Perth wine lovers who wanted to re-visit key Swan Valley producers after some years of often taking in more trendy Olive Farm is still operating in the Valley to this very day but in a new WA South West areas. They also wanted to know how much more central location. Its wines are now made by the Yurisich family. if any their own tastes had changed over the years. There were six in the group including three well-known medicos and invited Industry changes over the years have since covered all facets business enthusiasts keen to see how the Swan Valley – once the of grape growing, dried fruit production, fresh table grapes for heart of WA viticulture and winemaking – had relinquished the title domestic and export markets and of course wine. to the high-flying Margaret River region. Gone are the low yielding currant vineyards that once flourished Mike Zekulich was also invited along to include his views on the from the river to the foothills of the Darling Ranges, victims of long rich wine pioneering history of the Swan as well as his own the loss of yields in poor sandy soils. Key European buyers then family’s dedicated commitment to important industry affairs. returned to supplies from Turkey and Greece that had been decimated by World War II. The group was led by leading WA dermatologist specialist and wine lover Hannes Gebauer who concluded at the end of the 3/4- Exports of fresh table grapes packed in granulated cork day mid-week tour in which numerous top quality table wines and sent to Asian markets also provided WA grape growers with some very fine fortifieds were presented. valuable income from the high-quality fresh fruit the Swan could so readily produce while new grape varieties boosted What a bonus with Swan Valley vineyards and wineries on all production. the very edge of Perth City. This meant smaller crowds at the tastings – easing concerns about the possibility of dreaded Keen investors waiting to move into the pick of cool-climate grape Covid-19 infections. growing production such as Margaret River and the Great Southern brought with them great enthusiasm and a solid commitment to wine quality. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 39

DCASRRTErAIRGSIIIDNOeEGBNS,SABTaCERARAROSORHSmFSWTTHHINNEEEMWSiEAIOSRnRMGLTAADKRWIEgNTIGNREGIVSIATEARNGTE.MIKEWZAaEdYaKatreUqltlahiuLnmebeIgCiuur.uisseHvOpinriConenefpelheseepyrrsanioadessaddtr,oaoedmrupyodubocolfpnyetspneoWtsrhhgoeaprtteeopnhhtiatAthoeeetsMhwhenidprsnmBoetahnissayocpiraretaerranagletahnnurgnsatkatseoCsddhhaetetr’mehseeeatrttVWJes.oetsrseeqiWAHntimRowraenBuwneiaoooinnlraaavranyandowCisylteilaatlehtikededeestiraennry,eNarlrissdrarsdvwgnfipsttiiwaobtsetefueanaripreactnftueiorriptdhoptnrr,massdieVdstoy$roehhbhawn-aauipei3nltenuonoAeiyhlcaa-eeilla.sutsldrwmenenenhrnrcnabwol.rttoynrt)stiehyietchslsahlbrahdhPltasmt.iitTceEnauMonsehs-ooeFrshodnssounggieowoadt,cifeCiltptdfaeboearaukafsmGstsna.rouisalsdcnbtntgl5tsweoueoApttarrphdeWgor0ocotirwiqnrnabiePnauenseuthqofWhhcguonrdlr.iendba-naansdaudsfseesotienidTln,gnaetstrotiitfndahstssfhdohracia2elretnottiustrteshetrlheryss0edsoynyrmry,c-riaemeP1,pnaadWwvBrwtwRrfstaali2eheyugopehoneieefrnr,iti.iorinrrcaeaintiinaervtrloedaeeom(hal1wsksdesseeWwsncksld.amet9ahsliaftsesspahotios,sBo9tnhthlwheoanttwehrbhpriVoae9uttdoedowlenbaheeiiiidr1er.trldtrnetn,wireveiechtat8BscwtWnutegIhifhmts,lgltnorhVheahdrceyowaaotedoagrstaawatiaefeuhanm2niiorwsithioelsrttoinradllazed0gmhdohdkidoenydormncis0rCantasnfnyareahpVnli5silbilguzngdamloddtivsepoirteholndlsuctodrraiuieetocalnmeostmfueaaaeje2beuotbeFanpeVscybvnv0errseeiceatdsaatsonhaccieet1tdatlcwtmerlrhyfrecarh3lidyntisaewtgndaieesoobtahendTadnryetotsvhrnaedeeeeyWhuoydit.itiEifnfe,nnrkcevnuititTnanaltmseognsdtioihhosnahgretroCSouveeasprraginteswfehwychndtL,ada-eoetncdratocohrilcmmaes,nnetrndlcaneWetuaefiediaeCtikiwmdtrcbnrsisgsirynst-noaiikpewhe,atdteaAiheanlfleaeilpi,wruinfttna,unoyorvoheoalsdshdansirbmpdfck2ntkntiondrtenrhl0eiyqisuieattaa,eiit0’aawnsunerlhnnitwo8dardsagviiuonaonpuewmelssnwiguewhtdcr,sbioyimnnythohapat3a.edhauwftarn5Beomoiavlnkddi0tundisebgahnhrteuyrdngeeavtochtBovwipfHaeteitirtnrhphchsuao1geapouecl2dlntole5otuheufit0nfecaihDrttwhtdiceeisuoeaydtknlrsie!etAketslnaeenstnytdeoodriyfneptddhFrueoesivrrtirrdeyeirathe 31 May/June 2018 W I N E STAT E \"The decision to take a step back Few then could have imagined the heights they would scale, and devote time to more leisurely often being hailed as among the nation’s best. pursuits was inspired by a recent trip with a small group of dedicated The pioneers however, had set the platform, earning the respect of those who were to follow. Perth wine lovers…\" Later changes were based on the advent of new varieties like 40 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021 chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, further enhancing wine interest. Said Hannes at the end of the visit: “We were stunned. It revealed an underutilised treasure.” These were the rewards the hard-working producers sought, along with mortgages being paid off along with the higher education they so desperately wished for their children for they had so little themselves. The highlight of the last 50 years has been the dramatic surge of industry expansion for all to see, exciting times for the State and nation. Younger generations of the Swan have joined the southern push planting their own vines while regularly buying grapes at vintage. As well, WA industry leaders have embraced their skills based on Oenology studies from leading university sources in the Eastern States. Their knowledge and skills have helped pack their trophy cabinets for all to see and reflect upon. Major contributions have come from high scoring Margaret River producers, especially for cabernet and chardonnay, but others have been quick to take up the challenge with excellent shiraz coming from Frankland River and riesling from the Great Southern. Surprisingly, Hannes Gebauer had his first serious drink as a two-year-old after his dummy had been dipped in Cognac! After the family’s post World War II migration to Australia, Mr Gebauer snr - a professional under 21 soccer player in his native Poland, took up the sport in the Swan Valley, being paid in wine as his club’s funds ran dry. In his new world, Hannes delighted jazz lovers with his trumpet-playing skills, while also playing A grade hockey in WA. However, he was never far from a quality wine travelling far and wide to sample the best, especially in Europe.

But he didn’t have to go far in this Swan Valley crew, to take winemaking doyen, Jack, who spent 51 consecutive vintages in, with his impressed mates, the great fortifieds from Kosovich, Talijancich and Faber, never to be forgotten stars of the trip. at Houghton – travelled for years around the Swan and Numerous producer upgrades over the years include multi- elsewhere in WA, urging producers to give up bulk flagon million-dollar facilities as good as any, taking in the latest technology, new dining areas, micro-breweries, a jetty for boat production in favour of 750ml bottles of premium wine better visitors, magnificent renovation of the historic Captain James Stirling homestead, creating as well, an important place for suited to the industry’s future. the display of excellent local art. Group members reflected on many aspects of their visit. Said Obviously over the years there have been many new and old changes focussed on industry progress including: one, (GP Phil Downing) “What I took away were stories; stories · The 1859 purchase of Houghton by Colonial Surgeon, Dr told by the winemakers themselves, the men and women on the John Ferguson, who gave his energetic son C.W. Ferguson the challenge of expanding their small, mainly Swan bush location, label, not an employee of a corporation. Stories from families to establish a base for a wine industry under the famous Houghton label. Its first vintage yielded just 25 gallons, yet arriving from overseas with nothing, no English, no money. Of the winery was to become one of Australia’s most significant. hand dug cellars before houses, stories of recreating a little bit · The discovery of gold in WA in the 1890s led to a fourfold population explosion opening up a local wine market for the of the old country through wine. Stories of reaching everything first time. from a life-long passion of geology, ocean floor, of alluvial soils · The first Croatians arrived in WA in March 1916 – three families providing a major boost in grape growing and and caprock, stories of 100-year floods, stories of generational winemaking skills leading to controversy with women and children working among the vines for the first time to make winemaking, stories of adaptation and change, all shared in a their small blocks pay. foreground of honest and regional terroir.” · World renowned scientist Dr John Gladstones identifies Margaret River as an ideal location for the production of Then another: “These are stories that must live on. Whatever premium wine grape growing for the making of high-quality table wine. the future may hold for the Swan Valley. Each time I pour a · The gradual spread of vine plantings to unusual places like glass of Faber, John Kosovich or Talijancich, I am not just Geraldton, Esperance, even Kalgoorlie and places in between. taking wine, I am remembering valley stories.” · The crucial importance of the Mann family to better the industry by passing on their vast experience to help The tour included Oakover, Olive Farm, Upper Reach, producers improve. Dorham Mann for example, son of Riverbank, Sittella, Faber, Sandalford, Talijancich, Kosovich and Mandoon. The favourite wines for Dr Eric Rogers were the Upper Reach Reserve Cabernet and the Faber Millard Shiraz. But the good doctor conceded: “There were a large number of potential candidates. “What is clear is that the valley is filled with passionate and capable grape growers producing high quality and diverse wines from the area so close to the city.” So, on that note, raise your glass (hopefully filled with a fantastic WA drop) as we remember the good times and wish Mike all the best with many more glasses of great wine to come! May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 41

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS EXCITINGLY for Hong Kongers, we can Fish Broth and the Hakka-inspired cafe, Lady Nara has opened its rattan greet the wet and humid season (everyone’s Braised Pork Belly with Taro. Man Wah doors to Hong Kong - its first outside favourite time of year) with the extension of at the Mandarin Oriental, 25/F, Mandarin Thailand. It’s Thai food but tones down dine-in times at restaurants (to 10pm, from Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road with some Western touches, so think 6pm) and - gasp! - have dinner with three Central, Hong Kong, phone +852 2825 Lobster Tom Yum Bisque with Garlic other people (it was limited to groups of two 4003, www.mandarinoriental.com Toast. Lemongrass Roast Chicken, Soft for nearly three months). Shell Crab & Wagyu Burger and Rigatoni While having a name that could denote Red Vodka Crab. Just turn a blind eye to While looking askance at anyone who has somewhere that people might go to out of all the influencers posing at the light pink the misfortune to sneeze while accidentally desperation, The Last Resort is actually terrazzo bar, rattan chairs and lashings inhaling pepper, wearing masks when the latest opening from chic restaurants of floral decor. Lady Nara, Shop 3303, not actually eating, and sanitising hands group, Black Sheep. Perched on Peel 3/F, Gateway Plaza, Harbour City, 3-27 like it’s going out of fashion looks set to Street, the Canadian-inspired watering Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, remain, at least these new restaurants offer hole delights with a wallet-friendly phone +852 2153 3730, www.facebook. something to help guide us through the menu of no-nonsense drinks (cheers com/ladynara.hk start of typhoon season. to straightforward names like Whiskey Apple and Bourbon Coke as opposed Top: Interior of Man Wah restaurant. Man Wah at the Mandarin Oriental, to something more esoteric). Left: Delicious dishes from Lady Nara restaurant. the genteel grandfather of Cantonese Below right: The Last Resort restaurant. fine dining is back. Though technically Food-wise, expect juicy hot fried not a new restaurant per se, it has had chicken and golden-fried potato wedges a complete makeover, so it looks and dipped in sour cream and sweet chili feels like a completely different space sauce courtesy of chef Jowett Yu – think dark azure tones with Chinese (Executive Chef of Ho Lee Fook and Le embroidered art panels and delicate Garçon Saigon). In a town beset with brass embellishments, all done very bewildering menus at confusingly high tastefully as this is the Mandarin. prices, a simple concept such as this is very welcome. The Last Resort, 52b Peel As for the food, the Michelin-starred Street, Soho, Hong Kong, phone +852 kitchen, headed by Chef Wing-Keung 2442 2440, www.thelastresort.com.hk Wong, balances old favourites with new creations, with a focus on often So, we’re back to the idea of curated overlooked culinary gems and forgotten menus and ‘grammy decor, but Bangkok delicacies. Highlights of the menu include Deep-fried Matsutake Mushroom Pudding, Baked Lobster in Superior 42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL BACK in the day, a trip along West End’s watermelon relish and raspberries, queso Over at Paddington it's a second venue Hardgrave Road offered up a variety of fresco and salsa verde - they are so also for the owners of Ngon, a modern old-fashioned blocks of flats, houses with packed with flavour, charriness from the Vietnamese bistro housed in a pretty, grapevines and veg-laden front yards and plancha, piquancy from the marinades original shop on Given Terrace. The menu a sprinkling of second-hand bookstores that the sauces, as tempting as they are, is a compilation of typically fresh flavours of and thrift shops. The landmark of the road are hardly necessary. The charcoal beef Vietnam divided into small and large plates. was the Rialto Theatre, a lovely old corner with blueberry and coriander is equally structure built in the 1920’s. delicious and this one handles the fiery Recently owner Tuan Nguyen and his Bhuta sauce nicely. team launched Given Kitchen and Bar A couple of traditional Vietnamese up the road in another quaint shop front. restaurants came along in the ‘60’s offering Raw yellowtail kingfish arrives in an earthy The long narrow room features a banquette rudimentary dining rooms and menus as bowl amid a heady blend of coconut, onion running down the right-hand side with dark long as your arm were also popular. These & lime as well as a mix of both habanero wood tables simply adorned with ceramic venues dabbled in various Asian cuisines and merkin chilli. vases of various colours. The menu for as well as their own and were family run breakfast and lunch is strikingly different often with three generations working The sides are well worth indulging in - to that of dinner and that is because there together on any given day. crunchy tostadas served with guacamole, are two different chefs at the helm day and mole madre, eggplant, pico de gallo and night. Chef Daniel Real injects funky fusion The good news is that the two main sauce roja are all delicious, especially when vibes into his morning creations - think players, Trang’s and Quan Thanh are served together. bubble tea panna cotta with chocolate still there. The menus are still vast and wide granola, karaage chicken benny with ranging, they’re still family-run and they still The cocktail list leaves nothing to the sriracha hollandaise and sauteed kale or offer the same value for money that they tequila and mezcal lovers' imagination. It hangover fried rice with a pork sausage always did. begins with a not so classic margherita and and a fried egg. ends with a mezcal negroni with campari The difference is the neighbours, and the and grapefruit bitters. At night the sophistication and finesse neighbourhood, now some of the highest ramp up under the direction of chef, priced inner-city housing in Brisbane. A Brisbane has been lacking good Mexican Wilhelm Gee with dishes like whole few doors up from Trangs and part of the and Mama Taco is well and truly filling squid, green chilli sauce and garlic salt, theatre is Mama Taco, a highly anticipated that gap. Mama Taco, 4/59 Hardgrave wagyu rump with Vietnamese chimichurri, Mexican bolthole, delivered by the creators Road, West End. No Phone. Visit www. charcoal BBQ chicken with lime and chilli of Holloway and Luigi’s (both now mamataco.com.au. and a deliciously seared duck breast with defunct), also in West End. red curry and fried shallots. Given Kitchen There’s no such shortage of good Italian and Bar, 257a Given Terrace Paddington. Three colourful bottles of chilli sauce are these days however, but the same team at Phone (07) 2103 5534. deposited on our polished wood banquette Mama Taco also runs Mario’s just a few table along with the offer of still or sparkling doors down. Top left: Tequila from Mama Taco. water. “Think of them as stop lights,” says Above right: The Beef taco at Mama Taco. our waiter. “The green (Merkin chilli) is go Simple decor with olive green velvet bar - not too spicy, you can enjoy plenty of it. stools, a red feature wall and polished wood The orange (Bhuta) is a little spicier and the gabled ceiling, the pocket-sized venue red (habaneros) speaks for itself!” oozes charm and an easy warmth. All three are fresh and vibrant and packed The bar is stocked with a plethora of with heat and flavour, but when the tacos Italian and Australian wines bolstered by a arrive - the first one is a king prawn with reserve list of big-end-of-town barolo’s and barbaresco’s - there’s also 50 Grappas and 50 Ameros to choose from as you sample the experimental dishes chef Raffaele Percichetti creates on a nightly basis. Several dishes have already become firm favourites and regulars are dictating that they cannot be removed from the menu. And who would remove lobster lasagna, funghi calzone fritto, and scampi crudo with buffalo milk stracciatella dusted with freeze dried raspberry from the menu? There’s a second room that can be hired for functions and a couple of black velvet armchairs that sit on the footpath, the perfect spot for an aperitivo after the rigours of the day. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 43

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS YORKSHIRE-BORN chef Toby Gush grew best fish and chips. Which he has done, Beach. Open for breakfast, lunch and up with a deep understanding of fish and based on crisply battered, sustainably dinner daily. Phone (08) 8353 8503. chips, especially fish, but when he moved caught ocean jacket fish from Greenly to Australia, he spent nearly two decades Island off Eyre Peninsula. These firm- First there was Spaghetti Crab, then creating top quality Italian dishes for fleshed white fish, a larger, deeper ocean Spaghetti Meatballs and now Spaghetti esteemed Adelaide restaurant Chianti. version of the common leatherjacket, are Island, all part of the extended family perfect in this context. of restaurants that includes the famed Then the disruption caused by the Ruby Red Flamingo, Tony Tomatoes and COVID virus provided an opportunity to To these he adds a terrific house-made Coccobello. move on to new opportunities and Gush, (of course) tartare, a bundle of super crisp with his sous chef Gordon Lee, took on chips and a salad bowl that varies from day This is family-style Italian home cooking but the stoves at Oceanique, a relatively to day but is far more interesting than most done professionally under the experienced new restaurant based at the Adelaide of its kind. All up, a terrific plate. eye of chef and partner Enzo Verdino Sailing Club overlooking the broad sands who, with co-partner Lauro Siliquini, bring of West Beach. There’s much more than this on the together more than 50 years’ experience in menu, which includes basics such as providing great value food, wine and fun. Until Sam Dunning, his sister Lucy and Waygu steaks, fried free-range chicken their extended families – in which resides and burgers, but Gush has built a network The fun bit is important, too, because a long history in hospitality – took over this of local suppliers who provide him with Spaghetti Island, in the tradition of its large restaurant, terrace and function space a constantly changing range of whole predecessors, is colourful and slightly crazy two years ago, it was largely deserted and fish and seafood, which is his main love. with yellow walls, black floors and tables, unloved. Not anymore. It’s potential for great There’s a short but well curated wine list, cut-out palm trees on the walls and lots of value dining, for families, holidaymakers and a fabulous view at sunset. What more hanging plants. and locals alike, has been unleashed – could you want? Oceanique, 9 Barcoo increasingly driven by chef Gush’s skills in Road, West Beach. Open for breakfast This time there are a dozen spaghetti the kitchen. Saturday-Sunday, lunch Wednesday- dishes from which to choose, just as the wine Sunday, dinner Wednesday-Saturday. list has been ever so slightly expanded – Freed from his Italian straitjacket, however Phone (08) 8294 3232. there are now four reds and four whites, four attractive that was, he was able to pursue cocktails and two beers on tap - but again a long-standing goal: to create Adelaide’s While on the subject of fish and chips, the object is to minimise customer indecision there’s another great plate to be had in and get them happily munching away on slightly less salubrious surroundings – in dishes such as Spice Tour, a putanesca- fact a trip back to the 60s and 70s – at the style dish with olives, fried capers and chilli, West Beach Surf Club Cafe, which also Basil Bay – with basil pesto, green beans enjoys fabulous seaside views from its and potato, or a spaghetti marinara named balcony and open terrace. Summer Love, with squid and peas in a crab bisque. Not surprisingly, there is also It’s slightly daggy and old-fashioned in the original favourite Spaghetti Crab, with everything except the food and service, blue swimmer crab and cherry tomatoes. both of which are terrific. And although the long menu covers everything from focaccia No starters or desserts were offered – this with chips to schnitzels and curry, the go-to- is just spaghetti and more spaghetti, but dish is the beer-battered garfish with chips there are plenty of places within a short walk and coleslaw. on Gouger Street if you need either of those. Servings are generous, the waiters are It’s great value, the view is as good as attentive and friendly and there are gluten it gets, the open terrace is dog friendly and carb-free options available. Spaghetti (water bowls under the tables) and best Island, 138 Gouger Street, Adelaide. Open to get in fast because the place is about for dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Phone 0422 to be renovated and that old-style charm 307 303. will be lost. West Beach Surf Club, cnr Seaview and West Beach roads, West Top right: Fish and chips from West Beach Surf Lifesaving Club. Bottom left: Spaghetti from Spaghetti Island. 44 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

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sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING ONE of the most noticeable things about breadcrumbs. But our druthers were for the most people are squeamish about innards. going to the CBD when office workers were agnello - an artistic plate of perfectly cooked mainly working from home was that the few lamb rump, red cabbage, beetroot, capers But Pepperell has made lamb's brains a star people on the streets had almost exclusively and anchovy - whose exquisite appearance adopted casual clothing. Restaurants were was matched by its taste. The duck breast at Bistro 916 - crumbed, fried and served with peopled with men in shorts or chinos with with turnip, chicory and black cardamom was shirts with hardly a suit in sight. I mention another star-rated choice. smoked eel mayo. this because don't even think of opting for a suburban cafe-style dress code at Seta For those with bigger appetites, share plates Then there's the boudin noir, blood sausage Sydney. Not because the management include Bistecca - a 1.2 kilo slab of Brooklyn wouldn't let you in, but because you would Valley beef mbs 3+ t-bone - and Kobe wagyu wrapped in flaky brik pastry, the pork rillettes be squirming in your seat amidst the multi- with horseradish, dijon mustard, rosemary jus million-dollar movie set surroundings. and watercress salad. Another dish that had and chicken liver parfait. The Plats Principaux plenty of takers was the soqquadro pasta with In 2017, leading restaurateur, Tonci Farac cuttlefish, cuttlefish ink, lemon and elderflower. is a five-strong stellar lineup centred on (ex-Wildfire), took over The Athenian restaurant, which filled the ground floor of Desserts are contemporary takes on Italian steak frites - the number one dish in France a grand heritage building in Barrack Street. classics from the Seta tiramisu through The transformation has been jaw-dropping. caramel millefeuille and monte bianco. - but much improved with a Rangers Valley Seta, the Italian word for silk, has been given Bu, oh the wines. Head sommelier Filippo a world-class renovation, courtesy of Michael L'Episcopo (ex-Uccello and Mr Wong) has entrecote and partnered with pepper sauce McCann of Dreamtime Australia Design (Mr orchestrated a 500-strong wine list, of which Wong and Felix). The palazzo-style interior 80 per cent are Italian bottlings. The suave and perfectly cooked chips. Duck frites, a is a vision of ornate columns, marble floors, connoisseur has also put together a selection polished timber and an open kitchen that of six wines exclusive to Seta, partnering with vegetarian mushroom frites, lobster frites and looks straight out of the Netflix series, Chef's Sergio Carlei, owner of the biodynamic Carlei Table, which focuses on the world's leading Vineyards in Victoria. fish of the day round out the simple but really restaurateurs. The staff are all suited and booted and as good selection. For all its grandeur and the imposing exterior, welcoming as they are professional-looking. built as Australia's first savings bank in 1849, There's no use of the word guys when Tyson has curated a 200 bottling France- you feel immediately comfortable in the 600 addressing customers, but there is no stiff square metre space. Apart from the main formality, either. I popped in the following week centric winelist from growers' champagnes dining room, Seta is split into several areas with a business colleague for a Negroni. That's from the chef's table through an Italian crudo how compelling this exceptional new addition through burgundies and chablis. You can wax bar (an Australian first) and Venetian-style to the CBD is - for drinks or dining in style. Seta cocktail bar. Sydney, 11 Barrack Street, Sydney; phone nostalgic with chocolate mousse for dessert, (02) 9262 2624. Seta's menu is under the guiding influence but I recommend the Quarts de Chaume- of Matteo Vigotti, a former Bocuse d'Or I became addicted to Hubert, the downtown award winner, and owner of the Novecento Sydney restaurant that re-ignited the city's based creme caramel. Bistro 916, 22 Challis restaurant in Meina, Italy, which received a passion for French food with fusion touches Michelin star in 2009. Vigotti has remained in such as kimchi gratin and escargot XO. I Avenue, Potts Point; bistro916.com. Italy and the head chef translating his creative also became an habitue of Alberto's Lounge, flair is Giovanni Astolfoni, whose resume the Italian bolthole near Central that elevated CHI means energy in Mandarin and you can includes some of the world's leading five-star trippa alla fiorentina to must-order status. The hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants. common denominator of the two gourmet certainly feel the force when you step into the outposts is Daniel Pepperell. The a la carte menu blends top class Lotus Dining Group's latest restaurant of the Australian produce with Venetian inspiration The talented chef has teamed with sommelier and exacting cooking techniques. It invites Andy Tyson and chef Michael Clint (ex- same name at Barangaroo. The lively space you to plan your own culinary journey and Rockpool Group) to open Bistro 916 in Potts we enthusiastically took up the challenge. Point, where Merivale's year-long Lotus pop- was designed by noted architects and interior We started with two primi - riso carnaroli up pulled in foodlovers. The decor is based acquerello tenuto colombara, a fabulous on the fantasy version of a Parisian bistro with designers, Luchetti Krelle, and there's a rich risotto incorporating scallops, bone marrow, waiters garbed in white coats. You don't often crispy chicken skin and celery essence - and see brains on a menu in Australia because vibe from the abundance of gold and red and a light-as gnocchi beautifully paired with blue swimmer crab, chilli, garlic and tarragon. white lanterns. Head chef Chris Cheng takes The five mains veered strongly towards his cue from Chinese street food and also seafood such as pink snapper with capsicum coulis, spinach, taggiasca olives and basil works native ingredients such as saltbush and 46 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021 Davidson's plum into the mix. A lineup of lucky Maneki Neko cats adds a touch of cuteness to the slick premises with harbour views, whether you drop by for a glass of wine, Chinese-inspired cocktail or Tsingtao beer. The menu is divided into seven parts, including snacks, dim sum, skewers from the grill, noodles and rice, mains and desserts. We left feeling as full as the proverbial boot after jade prawn dumplings and king brown mushroom rolls to start, followed by duck breast with Davidson's plum, caramel and charred lettuce and lamb shoulder with Chinese tabouli. But if you have room, squeeze in the yuzu cheesecake with pomelo, blood orange sorbet and salted plum meringue. CHI by Lotus, Shop 2/100 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo; phone (02) 8318 8605. Top left & right: Dishes from Seta restaurant. Photo credit Esteban La Tessa.

HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardless Wines are invited from any producer, a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions are provided that they meet the criteria Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published according of the class being judged. The class is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising may be a regional, style or new release is taken or not. tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging system available for consumers to purchase, The judges although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with Winestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a using Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight will procedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical to the judges. The three judges taste expertise and often a marketing/retail the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes. without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges are this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, masters of wine with vast international scores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ experience, and most judges have re-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience at major Australian wine agreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade shows. We are also aware of expertise. the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered If we are judging a region, for example, is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce we will have a winemaker judge from above and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, that region because that person knows is 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; the local style. We balance that with wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent a judge from outside the region and drinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine generally someone with broad and not gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind mature experience. wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice to HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 97 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 95 - 96 Very Good 18 - 18.4 93 - 94 HHHH Silver 91 - 92 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 17 - 17.9 89 - 90 Good HHH Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 47

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 48 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 1993 $90 1991 $850  1994 $120 1992 $270 Visit our website and keep 1995 $110 1993 $240 up to date with all our latest 1996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  wine info, news, competitions, 1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  1998 $160  1996 $260 tastings and events. 1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 Become a subscriber to enter 2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 into our exciting regular 2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 competitions. 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 Follow us and keep up to 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 date with all our latest 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 wine info, tastings and 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 events on facebook, twitter 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 and instagram. 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 Winestate Magazine 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco @WinestateEd 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190  2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 www.winestate.com.au May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 49

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN WESTERN AUSTRALIA NEW STAR CHEF FOR THE The new menu is available now in the Other hotel is part of the Elizabeth Quay precinct. PULLMAN Side of the Moon for resort guests, visitors to The 229-room hotel spans 18 floors, and the region and south west locals. EXPERIENCED European chef Kiren includes meeting and event spaces, a Mainwaring has been appointed executive The Other Side of the Moon is open fitness centre and an outdoor infinity pool chef for five-star Margaret River hotel property daily for breakfast and all-day dining with views over the Swan River. Pullman Bunker Bay Resort. from noon until late seven days a week. Outside guests are welcome to dine in the The food and beverage offerings include Originally from Wales, he trained at restaurant with bookings recommended. See Reel Kitchen – with an open kitchen Wolfscastle Country Hotel and Spa in pullmanbunkerbayresort.com.au. concept showcasing fresh, seasonal local Pembrokeshire before working at three-star produce and seafood; Oar Bistro, a deli and Michelin seafood restaurant Coutanceau in SEASHELLS HOTEL ON THE bakery located on the boardwalk; and 18 the French coastal town of La Rochelle. He SEASHORE Knots Rooftop bar. operated Two Friends restaurant in the Swan Valley and Co-Op Dining in East Perth before Albany's iconic Middleton Beach will be the Located on the 18th floor, the rooftop moving to Margaret River in January this year. site of a landmark new hotel with a buyer venue offers breathtaking and uninterrupted confirmed for the ocean-front site, and 360-views of the Swan River and Perth city. In addition to heading up the kitchens Seashells Hospitality Group confirmed as The artwork on the side of the building has at Pullman Bunker Bay Resort he also the operator. The new four-star plus hotel - been designed and installed by Fremantle- creates meals for the Other Side of the Seashells Albany - will be the centrepiece of based artist Tom Mùller – and reflects the Moon Restaurant. He launched a new the Middleton Beach Activity Centre, offering rhythm and waves of the Swan River. menu in March. 80 to 100 rooms with a choice of one and two-bedroom suites. SANDALFORD OFFERS NEW “The direction of the new menu is to source SICILIAN EATS and highlight the amazing produce we have The hotel will also see the creation of in the south west,” he said. “I have drawn on beachfront food and beverage facilities for SANDALFORD Wines, one of the founding my experience and designed dishes that let both locals and visitors. Construction will wineries in Perth's Swan Valley region – the produce speak for itself.” start mid-year. located less than 30 minutes' drive from the CBD – has recently opened a new bar The range of local produce features Leeuwin The coastal city of Albany in the Great and restaurant. Coast oysters, Manjimup cauliflower, Margaret Southern region is a five-hour drive from Perth, River venison, Capel region marron and or one hour and 15 minutes on a direct flight. Featuring an open kitchen and a wood-fired Angus beef from the south west. Sicilian pizza oven, the new Sandalford Bar NEW HILTON FOR WA and Restaurant is open for lunch, Monday Mainwaring joins a team that includes to Sunday from 11:30am, and for drinks and French-trained pastry chef Romain Lassiaille, DOUBLETREE by Hilton Perth Waterfront dinner on Friday to Sunday evenings until late. who creates the resort's famous desserts. is one of the newest hotels in Western Australia. Offering spectacular views over In addition, a wide selection of wine from “I am very proud to be working in an the Swan River and Perth city skyline, the Sandalford's Swan Valley and Margaret River amazing venue with a strong team and look portfolios is available, alongside a selection forward to promoting an incredible region,” of cocktails, spirits, beer and cider. said Mainwaring. CEO Grant Brinklow said the total spent on the enhancements, which were completed during the property’s Covid-19 closure, was in excess of $3.5 million. Chef Alan Spagnolo heads the kitchen team. 50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021