Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2016

wine & spirit insider tasting Beresford Bell Tower McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 HHHH Lovely perfumed oak on the nose with a peppery lift. Nice balance of oak, plum fruit and licorice on the palate with lots more pepper. 5+ $18.99 Flying High Margaret River Shiraz 2015 HHHH Inky crimson wine smelling of licorice, berries and sweet spices and tasting of raspberries and blackberries with a tannic finish. 3-5 $24.99Atze's Corner The Yarran B Series Marko's Vineyard Organic Hill VBBAEULSYUTSE Munari WinesBachelor Barossa Heathcote Shiraz Point Eight Single Organic & SchoolhouseValley Shiraz 2015 HHHH Vineyard Adelaide Preservative Free Red Heathcote2015 HHHH1/2 Gamey meaty bouquet; Hills Shiraz South Australia Shiraz ViognierLovely mix of fruits of good background of 2015 HHHH Shiraz 2016 HHH 2014 HHHHHthe forest, licorice and fruit. Nice black fruits on Licorice and berries Inky wine with lovely A pretty wine beautifullysweet spice aromas. the palate with toasty on the nose. More of young primary fruit balanced and dominatedWell balanced palate oak, subtle spices and the licorice characters characters, a peppery by the viognier resultinghas upfront sweet dark soft tannins. obvious on the very lift and angular tannins. in apricot-like characters.fruits, chocolaty oak approachable, subtle, $20 Lifted dark berry aromasand supple tannins. 5+ $30 smallgoods palate. and nicely balanced Tempus Two Pewter Epitome Margaret palate with bright fruit 3-5 $30 Barossa Valley 3-5 $42 River Shiraz and mouthcoating oak.Trentham Estate Shiraz 2015 HHHH Hummingbird 2015 HHHEstate Murray Black cherry aromas; Margaret River Intense, grippy and 3-5 $45Darling Shiraz powerful oak influence. Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 complex style. Lots of Howlin' Gale Wines2015 HHHH Generous palate; rich Attractive forest fruit dark berry fruit with hints Force 10 LanghorneRed fruit aromas with with sweet dark fruits, characters on the nose. of undergrowth. $34.99 Creek Shirazsoy notes and apricot chocolaty oak and Pure varietal fruit on 2013 HHHHHnuances. More of the supple tannins. a nicely weighted, SHIRAZ & \"A rich hedonistic style,\"apricot characters on medium-bodied, palate. BLENDS according to one judge.the palate. Good use 3-5 $34 2014 & OLDER Has a porty raisinedof oak. Drying tannins. 5+ $24.99 fruit bouquet with a rum Atze's Corner Big 19 TASTED and raisin-like flavour 5+ $16 A Barossa Valley profile on a very linear- Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 18 AWARDED structured palate. Plenty Subtle meaty/gamey of weight, depth and STAR RATINGS  fragrances and more of Great scores - great length. $22.50 the same on an inky, consistency! \"With theThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of black fruit, palate dashed younger wines the fruitexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. with pepper and spice. prevailed, with winesAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry $24.99 that had some age theprofessionals and are compared in peer oak came forward,\"classes by three judges. observed one judge.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, \"Lots of great 'drinka major mail-order business. now' propositions here.\"CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under.For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 151

NEW RELEASES Red Hill Estate Ivybrook Farm Rosenvale Wines Single Vineyard McLaren Vale Estate Barossa Mornington Shiraz 2014 HHHH Shiraz 2013 HHHH Peninsula Shiraz A compact and dense Subdued spicy peppery 2014 HHHH1/2 shiraz with black fruit, bouquet with floral Interesting wine - very licorice and chocolate touches. Developed Rhone-like. Lovely characters and the oak black fruit flavours lift of cinnamon and in a supporting role. showing hints of leather. cardamom spices. Firm tannic finish. $24 Medium weight palate 3-5 $30 spicy characters interlaced with rich dark Windance Glen McLaren Vale III fruit and chocolaty oak. Valley Margaret Associates Legacy River Shiraz Single Vineyard 3-5 $70 2014 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Firm and well- 2013 HHHH Mitolo Jester structured wine with \"A vanilla bomb of a McLaren Vale Shiraz meaty/smallgoods- nose\"; hints of a Cherry 2014 HHHH like elements, bright Ripe. Lots of oak on Dark berry bouquet raspberry fruit, lots of the palate with ripe fruit layered with spicy meaty oak and slightly drying underneath. Soft and notes. The long lingering tannins. 5+ $38 approachable. palate offers mouthfilling licorice and dark berry Beresford Estate 3-5 $120 Blewitt SpringsSeabrook The flavours. 3-5 $25 Shiraz 2014 HHHH Ivybrook Farm Seabrook TheChairman Great Nice spiciness on the Reserve McLaren Merchant BarossaWestern Shiraz Red Hill Estate nose with red fruit Vale Shiraz Valley Shiraz2012 HHHHH Heathcote Shiraz nuances. Sweet malo/ 2014 HHHH 2012 HHHHPowerful aromas of 2014 HHHH fruit flavours and chewy Fragrance of lifted red An interesting oak-drivenblack olives and leather Delicate floral perfumed tannins. Offers good and black fruits with shiraz with dark broodingwith gamey elements. fragrances with drinking now. $49.99 slightly varnishy oak. fruit beneath and lotsGenerous in the mouth raspberry and blackberry The palate is firm and of soy and vanillinwith an even textured, fruit. Pretty red fruit complex with an intense characters adding extracomplex palate dark flavours and warming inky flavour profile. complexity. $35with berry fruits. Has finish. Good drinkingtalcy tannins and high now. 3-5 $25 3-5 $45level of alcohol. 3-5 $33152 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting The Old Faithful Brygon Reserve Gralyn Estate Café Block McLaren Wines Gold Label Margaret River Late Vale Shiraz Margaret River Harvest White 2013 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH 2016 HHH Very ripe inky old Complexity of licorice Pungent candied citrus fashioned style of shiraz. and leather on the nose bouquet and attractive Aromas ranging from with a developed dark rich fruit palate with plums to prunes with licoricey palate. upfront sweetness. $35 vibrant berry flavours. 3-5 $49.99 5+ $60 MOSCATO & Ten Chains Clare SWEET WHITE Valley Shiraz 2013 HHH 3 TASTED A subtle mature 2 AWARDED complexity of aromas and lovely sweet fruit A nice example of each flavours with aged style - both of which are elements. 5+ $30 well made.Munari Wines Ladys Mitolo G.A.M. Queen AdelaidePass Heathcote McLaren Vale Shiraz South EastShiraz 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHH Australia MoscatoA savoury mix of bacon Very ripe jammy/pruney 2016 HHHHbones, pepper and shiraz. Delicate lifted Pretty perfumed florallicorice on the nose fruit nose and sweet aromatics with a touchwith rich dark chocolaty fruit flavours with subtle of the tropics. Thedried fruit-like flavours. oak. 5+ $58 palate is zesty and well- balanced with sherbet- 5+ $40 like characters. $8.99 175 Glenwood Rd, Relbia, Also Available : Tasmania, 7258 • Sparkling ph: (03) 63 430 773 • Sauvignon Blanc Cellar Door Open 7 Days a week, • Riesling • Chardonnay 10am -4pm (Oaked and Unoaked) • Cabernet Merlotsharmanswines.com.au 2013 Pinot Noir (Award Winner) Also available 2014 Pinot Noir• Free freight Australia wide (Conditions Apply - Orders to be in multiples of 6 bottles) The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 153

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20Koonowla Hoggies Estate McGuigan Black Label Norfolk Rise VineyardThe Ringmaster Clare Coonawarra Sauvignon South Eastern Australia Mount Benson SauvignonValley Riesling 2016 Blanc 2015 Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Blanc 2016Luscious riesling aromas Subtle and inviting musky/and a creamy palate with asparagus aromas and a good Nose showing tropical Nicely styled wine withbucket loads of flavours. Very crunchy acid palate that has characters with a citrus inviting tropical aromas with aapproachable for a young a certain pungency and a lift to the balanced good taut varietal palate. $16wine. $16 touch of greenness. $14.99 sweet fruit palate. $10Koonowla Wines Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Australian Vintage Limited Norfolk Rise VineyardPhone: +61 08 8849 2080 Phone: 0418 854102 Phone: 08 8172 8333 Phone: 08 8768 5080Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: www.koonowla.com Web: www.hoggieswine.com Web: www.avl.com.au Web: www.norfolkrise.com.auBEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable.154 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Villa Maria Private Bin Totino Estate Berton Vineyards Metal Gooree Park MudgeeMarlborough Sauvignon Adelaide Hills Label South Australia Sauvignon Blanc 2016Blanc 2016 Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Savoury nose with tropicalQuite an herbaceous nose Nose has subtle tropical Intense sweet passionfruit notes. Palate is sweetwith mainly green notes sweetness with a lean and bouquet with a well and fat in the mouth withon the long vibrant palate long green apple palate with a poised palate where fruit lovely fruity notes. $18with very faint tropical crunchy acid backbone. $16.99 sweetness is kept nicely invarietal fruit elements. $20 check with the acidity. $12 Gooree Park Wines Festival City Wine & Spirits Phone: 02 6378 1800Villa Maria Estate Ltd Phone: 08 8349 1200 Berton Vineyards Email: [email protected]: +64 9 255 1754 Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 2 6968 1600 Web: www.gooreepark.comEmail: [email protected] Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au Email: [email protected]: www.villamaria.co.nz Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.auNASAA Organic Wine of the Year 2017 Invitation to Submit Wines Judging on WEDNESDAY 22 of MARCH 2017 Adelaide Convention Centre www.winestate.com.au/advertising/p1187.aspx The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 155

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20Villa Maria Private Bin Vidal Estate East Coast McGuigan Black Label McGuigan Black LabelEast Coast NZ NZ Pinot Gris 2015 SEA Pinot Grigio 2016 SEA Chardonnay 2016Pinot Gris 2015 Floral fragrances and simple Restrained lemon sherbet Fresh peach nose with aPowerful aromatics. Warm honeysuckle palate relying on aromatics and bright citrus dash of citrus and simple butand soft in the mouth. sweetness for interest. $19.90 palate with a floral touch. $10 attractive varietal fruit palateGood balance between the exhibiting a hint of toast. $10sweet and savoury. $19.90 Villa Maria Estate Ltd Australian Vintage Limited Phone: +64 9 255 1754 Phone: 08 8172 8333 Australian Vintage LimitedVilla Maria Estate Ltd Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8172 8333Phone: +64 9 255 1754 Web: www.villamaria.co.nz Web: www.avl.com.au Email: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.avl.com.auWeb: www.villamaria.co.nz156 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Andrew Peace Wines Lions Lair Western Third Wheel Western Organic Hill Organic &Masterpeace Victoria Australia Merlot 2014 Australia Cabernet Preservative Free SouthRosé 2016 Sauvignon 2014 Australia Shiraz 2016 Appealing old fashionedMusky strawberry aromas style with plums and spices Great example of the variety. Inky wine with lovelyand a lightweight palate with on the nose and up front Cassis aromas laced with young primary fruitfresh strawberry flavours. $13 dark fruit flavours with interesting undergrowth characters, a peppery lift grainy tannins. $18.99 characters. Palate brimming and angular tannins. $20Andrew Peace Wines over with blackcurrant flavours.Phone: 03 5030 5291 Brygon Reserve Wines Good tannins. 5+ $18.99 Organic Hill WinesEmail: [email protected] Phone: +61 419 865 556 Phone: 0418 288 457Web: www.apwines.com E: [email protected] Brygon Reserve Wines Email: [email protected] W: www.brygonreservewines.com.au Phone: +61 419 865 556 Web: www.organichill.com.au E: [email protected] W: www.brygonreservewines.com.authe wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 151 | Special Edition 2016Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Designer WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd.Naomi Fry E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2016 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, Website www.winestate.com.auTasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 157

Like his name implies, Darwin is in a state of constant evolution – always moving and growing in new and exciting directions. From the Paspaley Pearling Company to the Menzies School of Health Research, Darwin is brimming with successful business ventures born from an inherent entrepreneurial spirit that affects all who meet him.So if you want to spark visionary thinking and rapid action,come and let Darwin inspire you. Think unconventionally meetdarwin.com.au Northern Territory, Australia

Follow us and keep up Continued from page 42.to date with all our latest The 157-year-old Saltram history is even more deeply embedded wine info, tastings and into the Barossa through the Old Vines Charter, with its “survivor” status old vine grenache vineyard planted in the 1930s and its events on facebook, “centenarian” status 1901 shiraz vineyard at Eden Valley, which twitter and instagram. underpins Saltram’s top red wine, The Journal. Wells is ever mindful of the Saltram red wine style she’s inherited from Dolan - “savoury, Winestate Magazine dark berried, structured and balanced, black olive, dark chocolate, @WinestateEd more large cask maturation, creating wines that drink well now but benefit from age. It continues to evolve, but always mindful of how it fits into the Barossa landscape,” she says. Curiously, though, it’s a white wine that has captured Wells’s attention at the moment. “We’ve been working with fiano - amazing thick skins and handles the heat of the valley floor while retaining its natural acidity, so much flavour and natural tannin that I love - and a few other Italian varieties such as montepulciano, sangiovese and tempranillo,” she says. “What I’m very excited about is that we’re looking to the future as well. That’s part of being with an historic winery - you also need to look at the future.” Continued from page 44. “But we’re not blending to improve of make bigger volumes, just to fill the little holes or nuances. It’s very different to what it was even 20 years ago. There are very few wines, such as our Black Label, that have been around 40 years and not compromise their quality or become commercialised with large volumes. We make roughly the same volume of Black Label (not disclosed but less than 3000- 4000 cases) as we did in Wolf’s day. We haven’t stretched it, as many other companies have done.” The fact that Wolf Blass Wines has so successfully maintained its own sense of identity, as part of a corporate conglomerate that includes mega-labels such as Penfolds, Hatcher attributes first to Wolf Blass the man, and then to his own tenure of 29 years. “In my own mind my responsibility is the same as if I owned the business,” he says. “I think of it that way because it means so much to me; I’ve put my whole life into it and I don’t want to see it destroyed. Wolf said to me that his name was on the label and he was very proud of that. Well, my name’s not on the label, but everyone in the industry knows it’s my reputation at stake as well as Wolf’s.” And while he maintains the “no gold medals, no jobs” philosophy, he says it doesn’t mean the company is fixated on making gold medal-winning wines. “I grew up as a Methodist,” he says, “and for some people our Yellow Label wine could be the most expensive wine they’re ever going to buy and they need as much respect from us as someone who can afford to buy Black Label every day. Our customers should get the same value for money when they spend $15 as they would at $150.” Special Edition 2016 W I N E S TAT E 159

contact detailsBEST VALUE BUYS Brygon Reserve Wines Loveblock Vintners Ltd (NZ) Deep Woods Estate Phone: +61 419 865 556 Phone: +64 9 373 3574 Phone: 08 9756 6066Andrew Peace Wines E: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: 03 5030 5291 Web: www.brygonreservewines.com.au Web: www.loveblockwine.com Web: www.deepwoods.com.auEmail: [email protected]: www.apwines.com Grampians Estate Nazaaray Estate Winery Shaw Family Vintners Phone: 03 5354 6245 Phone: 03 5989 0126 Phone: 08 8555 4215Australian Vintage Limited Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: 08 8172 8333 Web: www.grampiansestate.com.au Web: www.nazaaray.com.au Web: www.ballaststone.com.auEmail: [email protected]: www.avl.com.au Howlin Gale Wines Pty Ltd Red Hill Estate Vinaceous Phone: 8179 2800 Phone: 03 5989 2838 Phone: 0427 482 903Berton Vineyards Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: +61 2 6968 1600 Web: www.howlingalewines.com.au Web: www.redhillestate.com.au Web: www.vinaceous.com.auEmail: [email protected]: www.bertonvineyards.com.au Ivybrook Farm RIESLING Wicks Estate Wines Phone: 08 8212 0004Brygon Reserve Wines Phone: 0416 137 859 Email: [email protected]: +61 419 865 556 Web: www.wicksestate.com.auE: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Babich WinesWeb: www.brygonreservewines.com.au SAUVIGNON BLANC Web: www.ivybrook.com.au Phone: +64 9 833 7859Festival City Wine & Spirits Babich WinesPhone: 08 8349 1200 Little Brampton Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 9 833 7859Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: www.festivalcitywines.com.au Phone: 08 8843 4201 Web: www.babichwines.co.nz Web: www.babichwines.co.nzGooree Park Wines Email: [email protected] Chain Of PondsPhone: 02 6378 1800 Web: www.littlebramptonwines.com.au Colmar Estate Phone: 08 8389 1415Email: [email protected] Phone: 0419 977 270 Email: [email protected] Web: www.chainofponds.com.auHoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Marko’s Vineyard Pty Ltd Email: [email protected]: 0418 854 102 Festival City Wine & SpiritsEmail: [email protected] Phone: 0438 988 137 Web: www.colmarestate.com.au Phone: 08 8349 1200 Email: [email protected] Wines Email: [email protected] Gatt Wines Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.auPhone: 08 8849 2080Email: [email protected] Web: www.markosvineyard.com.au Phone: 08 8564 1166 Hush CommunicationsWeb: www.koonowla.com Phone: 02 9331 1170 Munari Wines Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Rise VineyardPhone: 08 8768 5080 Phone: 03 5433 3366 Web: www.gattwines.com Lawson’s Dry Hills NZEmail: [email protected] Phone: +64 3 578 7674Web: www.norfolkrise.com.au Email: [email protected] Loveblock Vintners Ltd (NZ) Email: [email protected] Web: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nzOrganic Hill Wines Web: www.munariwines.com Phone: +64 9 373 3574Phone: 0418 288 457 Longview VineyardEmail: [email protected] Organic Hill Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8388 9694Web: www.organichill.com.au Email: [email protected] Phone: 0418 288 457 Web: www.loveblockwine.com Web: www.longviewvineyard.com.auVilla Maria Estate LtdPhone: +64 9 255 1754 Email: [email protected] Macaw Creek Wines Monkey Business SA P/LEmail: [email protected] Phone: 0400 406 290Web: www.villamaria.co.nz Web: www.organichill.com.au Phone: 0418 890 203 Email: [email protected] Web: www.monkeybiz.net.auNEW RELEASE Seabrook Wines Email: [email protected] Saint Clair Family EstateAtze’s Corner Wines Phone: 0427 224 353 Web: www.macawcreekwines.com.auPhone: 0407 621 989 Your wine,Phone: +64 3 578 8695Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Patrick of Coonawarra Email: [email protected] Vintage Limited St Anne’s Vineyard Phone: 08 8737 3687Phone: 08 8172 8333 our ports.Web: www.saintclair.co.nzEmail: [email protected] Phone: +61 3 54 800 099 Email: [email protected]: www.avl.com.au Sandalford Wines Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Phone: +61 8 9755 6213 Email: [email protected] Web: www.stanneswinery.com.au Pernod Ricard Australia Web: wwwE.sxapnodrat lCfoursdt.ocmomer Service Trentham Estate Phone: 02 8874 8354 1300 134 096 TPhheonCeo:ll+e6c1tEiv2qeu9Wi9p5mi1n53ee0n2C0t0oa01mn83d5pLa8no0yg1istics Phone: 03 5024 8888 E: [email protected] cEWomemab.i:la:wut.wchwaI.nmthgpe@ocmrot1liCl3ce0auca0stuitv1ose3mtwr2aei8lrnia1Se.3cceoorvmmicp.eaauny. Email: [email protected] Robert Stein New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Phone: 02 6373 3991 Inbound - 0508 333 666 Vok Beverages Email: [email protected] No matter what. PEhmoanile::[email protected] toWtehbe: wwwwo.rrolbde!rtstein.com.au www.hamburgsud-line.com The Collective Wine Company Web: www.vok.com.au Phone: +61 2 9955 2008 Join the Australian Wine Industry Export anEdmBauiyle: [email protected] PINOT GmRiIsSsio/Pn ItNo VOerTonGa RinI2G01IO5 Web: www.thecollectivewinecompany. Vinitaly 2015 – Verona, Italy, 22-25 March c2o01m5.au Gatt Wines Phone: 08T8he56w4orl1d1’s6p6remier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-ready Email: [email protected] sourcing internationaRl wOinSesÉ. Web: wwwM.agrkaetttywouinr ewsin.ecsoamnd spirits to around 50,000 international buyers fUroKm, Aaslliao,vtehrethUeSwanodrldSBPEo- ubhmotuhonyankAeirliems:n:[email protected] sourcing new suppliers Eastern Europe and the The Italian Chamber of Commerce and IndustrWy (IeCCbI:) win wMewlb.obuornnekisingfrog.com.au the Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance to Australian wine industry professionals attending the show:Major Sponsors and Supporters - Space and stand bookings at preferential rates - Flight bookings and confirmed accommodation in Verona - Logistics - Visitor registration ICCI Melbourne also actively promotes and facilitates contact between the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for the wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching and appointment agendas. For more information contact: Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 E: [email protected] www.italcham.com.au WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY160 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2016

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aftertasteELISABETH KINGWINE CHOICES FOR THE MEATLESS MENUA FEW months ago, Australians topped the According to Roy Morgan Research, over many traditional Italian dishes featuring rootrankings in Google’s global searches for the the past four years the number of Australianword “vegan”, beating out longtime number adults claiming to follow an “all or almost vegetables, peppers and zucchini. Mostone Germany. There’s nothing new about vegetarian diet” has risen from 9.7 per centthe strict regime which doesn’t allow any of the population (1.7 million) to 11.2 per cent Italian whites are more dry these days andanimal products such as butter and eggs. (2.1 million). Even the Facebook page of theThe Vegan Society was founded in 1944. Vegan Society in Alice Springs has nearly pinot grigio is a good default choice. BeanVegetarianism has a much longer history in 4000 likes.Western society and is a centuries-old norm and eggplant dishes generally call for ain parts of Asia, South America, Europe and The vegetarian renaissance has throughlyAfrica. But the global trend of vegetarian fine shrugged off any hint of its health food cafe substantial red, advised David, correctly.dining is a more recent phenomenon. origins. World-class restaurants such as Attica, Ezard and Matteo’s in Melbourne and Umami seasonings - soy sauce, miso, Back in the early Noughties, I dined at the Bentley Restaurant & Bar and LuMi inL’Arpege in Paris, the only Michelin three-star Sydney have jettisoned the notion that going smoked paprika - really add depth tovegetarian restaurant in the world. Chef Alain veggie means saying goodbye to intensePassard is the godfather of today’s veggie- flavours. But what wines go with the new vegetarian dishes. For dishes like bakedcentric haute cuisine and also springboarded generation vegetarian dishes?the proliferation of restaurant-owned farms pumpkin stuffed with quinoa and sprinkledand gardens from LA to Melbourne. The traditional school of wine and food pairing insisted that certain vegetable dishes with miso vinaigrette, a fruity red steps up Over the past year, noted Sydney were unmatchable. Artichokes, salad coursesrestaurants such as Yellow have made and eggs should be wineless according to the plate. When there’s a lot of green onheadlines by going veggie. Passard to conventional wisdom. Vegetarian isn’t aalso attracted blanket publicity when he catch-all label, though, and it’s pretty easy the plate, the natural “green”characteristicannounced that meat was off his menus to match Mexican, Asian and Italian dishesin 2001. Something was lost in translation, centred on pasta, bread, rice, frittatas and of cabernet franc is a solid choice. Manybut his remarks at the time have inspired more which are well-seasoned with herbsa host of chefs to follow his lead. “There is and spices. Chardonnay, for example, is new-generation chefs serve char-grilleda creativity with vegetables that you don’t wonderful with classic Italian dishes such ashave with animal tissue,” he said. “There’s pasta primavera and a fruity red does the trick vegetables in large chunks, not smalla tremendous amount of surprises because with tomato salsa.there is still everything to be done with a pieces, for added earthiness which teamstomato, a carrot and an eggplant.” Tips on the backs of a wine label which claim that the contents of the bottle are a very well with red wines. Pizzas, vegetarian Alain Ducasse also gave meat the flick great accompaniment to vegetable disheswhen he opened his glamorous restaurant are about as useful as saying it goes well with moussakas and tagines call for bold reds.at the swanky Hotel Plaza-Athenee. The food. The secret to selecting a wine to go withlegendary chef operates 25 restaurants a certain vegetable dish is to focus on the The vogue for Spanish wines pays off whenaround the world and boasts the highest dominant ingredient or flavouring. How a dishnumber of Michelin stars. Vegetables are is cooked also has a big influence. Steamed matching wine with vegetables. Asparagusmore than a fashion in Paris, he reveals, we or lightly boiled vegetables pair best with aare entering a new age. So is the rest of the crisp, light white. Roasted vegetables and is one of the hardest vegetables to select theworld. Even Sydney pubs like the Red Lion bakes demand more intense flavouredin Rozelle have gone vegan. Forget lettuce white wines. Mushrooms - earthy and deeply right wine for, but Rioja pulls off the trick andleaves with beer. We’re doing normal pub fare flavoured - are one of the easiest vegetableslike burgers, chips and pizzas, but vegan, to match and are perfect with red wines. also mixes well with pesto-flavoured pastassays co-owner, Bhavani Baumann. Hardlynews at Gigi Pizzeria in inner city Newtown In her book, Italian Food, the celebrated and risottos. But it may be best to throw in thewhere diners queuing for the vegetarian English food writer, Elizabeth David,pizzas are a regular occurrence. No wonder. recommended orvieto or another dry white towel with some vegetables which “interfere” with a touch of sweetness as the go-to for with the taste of wine such as brussels sprouts (unless they are fried up with bacon or chestnuts), broccoli and green peppers served alone or pretty much so. It’s simplistic to say that cancer scares about bacon and factory-farming are the main reasons for the upsurge in gourmet vegetarian and vegan fine dining. Australians and Americans have really reduced their meat intake in recent years, even if they haven’t gone all the way. Pioneers like Alain Passard really took the traditional chef’s preference for seasonality one step forward. Each morning’s vegetable harvest is taken from his permaculture farm about 228km from Paris in time for lunch. Nothing is refrigerated because Passard believes that diminishes flavour. He also maintains that his “grand cru” vegetables, fruits and herbs don’t require much manipulation and handling in the kitchen to knock your socks off. He’s absolutely right. next issue: What better way to start the New Year than by reflecting on the very best of the previous year’s wines? In this issue we feature the top four-to-five star wines tasted throughout 2016 with vintage and regional report cards to see how the wine industry stacked up.162 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2016

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