Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2012

SAUVIGNON BLANC of the year WIN NERTHE KENNARDS WINE STORAGE TROPHYTwo Rivers Convergence MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc 2012WINEMAKER:David Clouston.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Bright straw colour with golden/green hues. An abundanceof ripe tropical fruit is overlaid with exotic gooseberry andattractive herbal pungency. Displays great concentration,yet has a stylish elegance - fresh, balanced and persistentflavours with a long mineral finish.FOOD SUGGESTIONS:Freshly shucked oysters, new Zealand greenlip musselsin a white wine broth and any fresh summer salads.CELLARING:1-4 years.VITICULTURE:The grapes were sourced equally from the alluvial soilsof the Wairau Valley and the harsh, dry, clay soils of theAwatere Valley, both located in Marlborough.VINIFICATION & MATURATION:Harvested at optimum ripeness, the grapes weregently pressed and fermented, at cool temperatures, instainless steel to maximise fruit purity and character. Apercentage of the wine was aged on natural yeast lees inFrench barrels for 3 months, adding texture, complexityand increased mouthfeel to the palate.CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: +64 2 152 7550E-mail: [email protected]: www.tworivers.co.nzSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 51

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS LAKE CHALICE MARLBOROUGH THORNBURY MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Matt Thomson. Simon Fell. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale straw colour with green hues. Fantastic colour of pale straw with Hallmark aromas of blackcurrant, flecks of green; it literally sparkles in the passionfruit and grapefruit dominate. glass. Packed with classic citrus and A crisp, medium-bodied, dry wine with passionfruit sorbet flavours alongside a refreshing and elegant palate. Mouth- nettles and pungent herbal notes. Crisp, watering acidity is balanced by a mineral crunchy and delicious, it also has solid, note on the lingering finish. satisfying length of flavour. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 3 572 9327 Phone: +64 9 255 0660 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.lakechalice.com Web: www.thornbury.co.nz52 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

SELAKS RESERVE MARLBOROUGH MUD HOUSE SINGLE VINEYARDSAUVIGNON BLANC 2011 NEAL VINEYARD MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER:Brett Fullerton. Nadine Worley.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Attractive pale straw colour. Bursting Pale straw colour. Intense aromas ofwith gooseberry and stone-fruit aromas, nettles, jalapeno peppers and grapefruitunderscored by zesty citrus notes. Flinty pith. Fresh but bold flavours fill theminerality - like water on river stones - front palate. The pure fruit sweetnessshines through to complement the intense combines perfectly with the ripe, crispgooseberry and passionfruit flavours. acidity which lingers on the palate.The palate has excellent weight, CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:refreshing acidity and exceptional length. Phone: +64 3 520 6011A classic Marlborough sauvignon blanc E-mail: [email protected] an outstanding vintage. Web: www.mudhouse.co.nzCONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: +64 9 412 6666E-mail: [email protected]: www.selaks.co.nz Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 53

nothing but the fruitWinery On-Board High-frequency linear destemmer and roller sorting table. Gentle motion keeps stalks and berries intact, unlike traditional rotary destemmers. Straight to the fermenter or press! Removes more than 95 % of Petioles, MOG and green waste *Available in 3 models to suit all winery sizes and sorting requirements. www.pellenc.com.auFor more information contact:Pellenc Australia 14 Opala St, Regency Park SA 5010P| 08 8244 7788 F| 08 8244 7788 E| [email protected]

SEMILLON of the year WIN NER THE PELLENC TROPHYGartelmann Benjamin Hunter ValleySemillon 2009WINEMAKER:Liz Silkman.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:A fresh and lively wine with benchmark citrus andmineral notes, intense fruit on the palate and finishingwith beautifully balanced acidity.FOOD SUGGESTIONS:Enjoy with all seafood and spicy dishes.CELLARING:Enjoy now for its freshness or cellar until 2020.VITICULTURE:Vintage 2009 was a challenging one in the HunterValley. January was both dry and fairly warm, slowingthe ripening process. Our semillon was selected fromlow-cropped vines and picked at optimum ripeness,the grapes arriving at the winery one hour before theFebruary rains started.VINIFICATION & MATURATION:After crushing and destemming, only the free-run juicewas used and was then cold-settled for 36 hoursbefore being inoculated. The wine was cold-fermentedin stainless steel at 12-14C for 15 days. Following a lightskim-milk fining, the wine was sterile-filtered and bottledearly to retain freshness.CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: (02) 4930 7113E-mail: [email protected]: www.gartelmann.com.auSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 55

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS THE WINE SOCIETY SADDLER’S CREEK CLASSIC TYRRELL’S HUNTER VALLEY HUNTER SEMILLON 2009 SEMILLON 2009 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Andrew Spinaze. Nick Flanagan. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: On the nose, classic citrus aromas of Being very pale with a green tinge shows lemon and lime are given complexity by excellent wine handling before bottling. a touch of light toast. The palate, which The wine itself is fresh and lifted, with is beginning to soften, displays lovely lovely citrus and musk notes on the nose. lemon curd fruit, excellent acid balance The palate has generous citrus fruits while and impressive length of flavour. retaining the crisp acidity semillon requires. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: (02) 9431 4006 Phone: (02) 4991 1770 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.winesociety.com.au Web: www.saddlerscreek.com.au56 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

PETER LEHMANN MARGARET POKOLBIN ESTATE PHILBAROSSA SEMILLON 2007 SWANNELL SEMILLON 2006WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER:Andrew Wigan. Andrew Thomas.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Vibrant gold with a green tinge. The Pale gold colour with a hint of green; abouquet shows gentle development with pale overall hue. The nose displays freshhints of lemon zest, beeswax and lanolin. lemon blossom with a hint of honey, whichThe grapes were picked early to retain mellows into a soft fruitiness. The palatedelicacy and purity, giving the wine a has retained fine acidity, while the finish issoft, dry finish. still crisp and balanced, indicating that thisCONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: wine will continue to age for many years.Phone: (08) 8563 2500 CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:E-mail: malcolm.stopp@ Phone: (02) 4998 7524peterlehmannwines.com E-mail: [email protected]: www.peterlehmannwines.com Web: www.pokolbinestate.com.au Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 57



CHARDONNAY of the yearwine of the year RUNNER-UP WIN NER THE CLASSIC OAK TROPHY Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2009 WINEMAKER: Michael Hatcher. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Medium yellow with green hues. An intriguing and attractively generous bouquet of grapefruit, nectarine skin and lime pith. The fruit aromas are married harmoniously with underlying barrel ferment characters of gun flint and oyster shell. While the palate is full- flavoured, the flavours are succulent and their frame ultimately crisp and refreshing. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Pair with grilled shellfish such as lobster and scallops or other full-flavoured seafood dishes. CELLARING: Drink on release or cellar for up to five years. VITICULTURE: The fruit was sourced from several vineyards in the Tumbarumba region. This remote, cool climate region is one of the highest in New South Wales. Some of the vineyards the winery sources from have soils that are fertile and free-draining, producing fruit with pristine varietal fruit character and tight acid. Other vineyards sit on soils of decomposed granite that is nutrient- diminished and produces fruit of unique character, with a distinct acid frame and tightness of fruit. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: The hand-harvested fruit is whole bunch pressed, with 45 per cent fermented on gross lees in new and one-year-old French oak barriques. The wine was aged in oak on yeast lees for eight months before being removed and blended. The remaining 55 per cent was treated reductively in stainless steel to retain the pristine varietal fruit characters. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: (02) 4998 7666 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.hungerfordhill.com.auSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 59

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS BAY OF FIRES TASMANIA D’ANGELO OFFICER CHARDONNAY 2009 LADY CHARDONNAY 2010 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Peter Dredge. Benny D’Angelo. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Medium straw in colour. Parcels of The nose has a complex lees and fruit chardonnay grapes from select sites aromas, such as peach, nectarine and across Tasmania were combined to passionfruit. Cashews and ripe peaches, produce a wine with intense aromas of followed by creme caramel on the palate spice, fresh white peach and preserved with well-integrated French oak, give this lemon. A smooth, delicate palate with a wine a full and satisfying mouthfeel. mineral lemony acidity integrates with CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: creamy toast characters to complete the Phone: 0417 055 651 or 0419 164 250 long, crisp finish. E-mail: [email protected] CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Web: www.dangelowines.com.au Phone: (03) 6382 7622 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.bayoffireswines.com.au60 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

VIDAL LEGACY SERIES SACRED HILLHAWKES BAY RIFLEMANS HAWKES BAYCHARDONNAY 2010 CHARDONNAY 2010WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER:Hugh Crichton Tony Bish.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:The 2010 vintage was outstanding for The aroma is intense, with lifted, sweetHawke’s Bay chardonnay. Textured and citrus zest notes over ripe peach fruitfragrant, with an underlying minerality, characters, with subtle interplay of nutthis wine is held together by a fine line of and nougat nuances. The palate isnatural acidity, providing length and clarity layered with powerful intensity. Ripeon the palate. Distinct and age-worthy. citrus and stone-fruit flavours mergeCONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: harmoniously with complex barrel fermentPhone: +64 6 872 7447 notes, brought together into a seamlessE-mail: [email protected] palate with creamy vanillin texture andWeb: www.vidal.co.nz impressive length. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 6 879 8760 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sacredhill.com Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 61



PINOT NOIR of the year WIN NER THE NATIONAL WINE CENTRE TROPHY Coal Pit Tiwha Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010 WINEMAKER: Lynn Horton. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Deep garnet hue, bouquet of violet and dried herb. A luscious mid-palate of Doris plum is underpinned with subtle spice and mocha. Fine tannins and forest floor characteristics give a warm and persistent finish. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Lends itself to a wide range of dishes, but is especially well matched with duck, lamb and game. CELLARING: Drinking well now but expected to reach its peak in the next 3-4 years. VITICULTURE: Coal Pit Pinot Noir is grown using the philosophy of biological farming, in which the health of the soil is paramount. Rather than using chemicals we put life and associated nutrients back into the soil, to promote root exploration. Healthy vines are critical in order to ensure the long hang time required to make complex and subtle pinot. At an elevation of over 400m we need every long, dry, autumn day to ripen the tannins, eliminate green character and develop perfumed aromatics. No expense is spared in terms of canopy management, fruit thinning or shoot positioning, as pinot is a very unforgiving grape. A coolish spring in 2010 resulted in smaller bunches and, with the warm, dry autumn and healthy vines, we were able to hang the fruit out until May. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: Ambient cold soak was followed by an even cool fermentation. Malolactic fermentation occurred in spring. The wine was matured in 100 per cent French barriques (40 per cent new) for 12 months. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 2 7269 1389 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.coalpitwine.comSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 63

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS AKARUA CENTRAL OTAGO SAINT CLAIR PIONEER BLOCK 16 PINOT NOIR 2011 AWATERE PINOT NOIR 2010 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Matt Connell. Matt Thomson COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Deep red/bright/ruby colour, haunting Dark glossy garnet core with purple aromatics of floral and spice, and intense hues on the rim. Concentrated nose black fruit flavours and the complexity with black cherry, wild blackberry and for which Bannockburn pinot noir is sweet ripe raspberry, complemented renowned. The palate is beautifully by aromatics of violets, dried thyme poised, complex and shows excellent and a touch of spice. Luscious and fruit weight supported by fine tannins. elegant full palate with delicious black A slightly cooler year has produced a fruits - boysenberries, blackberries and wine with a ‘Burgundian framework’ but blueberries. A refined, elegant structure a Bannockburn soul. supports a rich, complex, toasty finish CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: with spice and amazing length. Phone: +64 3 445 0898 CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: E-mail: [email protected] Phone: +64 3 578 8695 Web: www.akarua.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.saintclair.co.nz64 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

CARRICK BANNOCKBURN PASQUALE HAKATARAMEACENTRAL OTAGO VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2010PINOT NOIR 2010WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER:Jane Docherty. Andy Nicole.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:The complex nose shows layers of Bright and clear, with deep garnet colourblack cherry, chocolate and cinnamon. in the core turning to intense ruby in theThe palate is texturally driven, with a rim. Intense and complex nose of redrichness and density of flavour showing cherry, blueberry, violet and peppersweet, succulent fruit and exotic spice combined with walnut and mineral notes.carried by good phenolic weight. The Medium-plus alcohol, high acidity andwine is mouth-filling, complete and velvety tannins create a very balancedharmonious with a long, complex finish. palate and good structure and length.CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Flavours combine the earthiness andPhone: +64 3 445 3480 terroirs of Hakataramea Valley with pinot’sE-mail: [email protected] floral and wild fruits.Web: www.carrick.co.nz CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 3 436 0443 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.pasquale.co.nz Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 65

A toast to excellence.Making award-winning wine takes a combination of professional skill and market acuity that canonly be achieved with decades of experience. The same goes for Hamburg Süd’s award-winningshipping services. Since our establishment 140 years ago we’ve developed a special skill withsensitive cargoes, and a deep understanding of our customer’s needs – including the very specialneeds of our valued wine exporters.Linking Australia with all coasts of North and South America; the Caribbean; Northern Europe and theMediterranean; Asia; India; Pakistan; New Zealand and the Pacific Islands. For more, visit our website.No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com

MERLOT of the year WINNER THE HAMBURG SÜD TROPHY Villa Maria Reserve Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2009 WINEMAKER: Nick Picone. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: This wine is a blend of the finest merlot parcels from Villa Maria vineyards planted in the Gimblett Gravels. Deeply coloured, it has a nose displaying fragrant red plum, berry fruit and violet aromas enhanced by subtle oak. Blending with a small percentage of malbec has introduced complex spice and blackberry fruit notes. The 2009 vintage produced an elegant wine which will mature gracefully, gaining further complexity with careful cellaring. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Red meat, particularly lamb and game, and cheeses. CELLARING: 2011-2017. VITICULTURE: The fruit was grown entirely on the soils of the Gimblett Gravels growing region in Hawke’s Bay, an area recognised for producing consistently deep-coloured and full-flavoured merlot wines. Our different vineyards contribute small parcels of exceptional fruit, each with their own unique characteristics. The free-draining soils of these sites help ensure balanced fruit and canopy growth, which are essential for ripe flavours and tannin development. Yields are kept low, allowing vines to produce fruit that is richly concentrated in colour, flavour and structure. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: One hundred per cent destemmed and crushed. Cap management involved plunging four times daily. The wine spent 4-5 weeks on skins in an open-top stainless steel fermentation vessel at a temperature of 30-32C. Malolactic fermentation was conducted in 100 per cent French oak (three-year air-dried fine-grain, 38 per cent new). Maturation lasted 20 months with three ‘rack and returns’ in total and egg whites fining at the last racking and pre-filtration, before bottling on 17 December 2010. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 9 255 0600 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.villamaria.co.nzSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 67

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S Satisfaction from the very FINALIST first ship. VILLA MARIA RESERVE Linking Australia with all coasts HAWKE’S BAY MERLOT 2010 of North and South America; the Caribbean; Northern Europe WINEMAKER: and the Mediterranean; Asia; Nick Picone. India; Pakistan; New Zealand COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: and the Pacific Islands. A benchmark vintage, 2010 has produced For more, visit our website. a classic Villa Maria Reserve Merlot. This wine is densely coloured to the rim and No matter what. highly concentrated with black fruits, small red berries, licorice and savoury www.hamburgsud-line.com oak characters. The palate reveals68 W I N E S TAT E a powerful yet elegant wine that will mature gracefully for many years with appropriate cellaring. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 9 255 0600 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.villamaria.co.nz Special Edition 2012

WINE TOUR OF SOUTH AFRICA 14 September - 28 September 2013 - in conjunction with The Australian newspaper & Travelrite International. Two wonderful weeks with Peter Simic, exploring the South African wine regions including visitsto Cape Town, Constantia, Stellenbosch, Franschoek, Paarl, Elgin, and Roberston. Great sightseeing including Cape Town, the Cape of Good Hope, the Kruger National Park and Sun City.

Hand-Built in France TRANSTHERM The Art of Cellaring and ServingPERFECT CELLARING TEMPERATURE REGULATED HUMIDITY UV TREATED GLASS DOORSRELIABLE REGULATION EASILY ACCESSIBLE SECURITY VISIBILITY PRECISE TEMPERATURE In a tradition of excellence, TRANSTHERMwine cellars have been designed to recreate the ideal conditions for storing and ageing ne wine. MAX. STORAGE CAPACITY State-of-the-Art Wine CellarsDiscover the full range: www.transtherm.com.au Imported by Vintec Australia

CABERNET SAUVIGNON of the year WIN NER THE TRANSTHERM TROPHYMajella CoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon 2010WINEMAKER:Bruce Gregory.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Deep, dark red in colour with very vibrant purple hues.Herbal mint and berries show up on the nose with hintsof eucalyptus and vanillin oak. The palate is rich withripe dark fruits and well weighted, grainy tannins. Asever, the finish is long and lingering, and this certainlyis a wine that will stand the test of time.FOOD SUGGESTIONS:Roast beef, aged gouda.CELLARING:Majella cabernet is sealed under screwcap and if storedcorrectly will cellar for 12 to 15 years.VITICULTURE:The grapes, from Majella’s own vineyard, are machine-pruned and harvested in early April. The vineyards wereplanted from 1974 through to 1990.VINIFICATION & MATURATION:The ferment was kept quite cool and after about six daysthe wine was transferred to French oak barrels (300-litre,50 per cent new oak) to finish its fermentation. MLFoccurred in the barrel and the wine was further aged inoak for another 22 months or so.CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: (08) 8736 3055E-mail: [email protected]: www.majellawines.com.auSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 71

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS PEPPERJACK SALTRAM MR RIGGS OUTPOST OF BAROSSA CABERNET COONAWARRA SAUVIGNON 2010 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Richard Mattner. Ben Riggs. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Deep plum red in colour. Aromas of Rich ruby/brick hues and a very aromatic ripe dark berry fruits, blackcurrants and bouquet of ripe plums, dates and fresh plums with mint and varietal leafy notes. rhubarb. Tightly structured wine with a The palate is rich and flavoursome, full of lovely, soft, juicy middle palate displaying plush dark fruit, soft, chalky tannins and dark chocolate, peppermint, malt, juicy hints of oak. This wine has generous length blackberries and hints of vanilla. and balance while being rich and soft. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: (08) 8557 0812 Phone: +61 8 8561 0200 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.pepperjack.com.au Web: www.mrriggs.com.au72 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

SCARPANTONI BROTHER’S BIRD IN HAND NEST EGGBLOCK MCLAREN VALE ADELAIDE HILLS CABERNETCABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 SAUVIGNON 2009WINEMAKERS: WINEMAKERS:Michael and Fil Scarpantoni. Kym Milne MW and Peter Ruchs.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Dark inky red with deep ruby red hues. Deep ruby colour with purple hues.A classic McLaren Vale cabernet, full Violets and cassis aromas with hints ofin body with plenty of blackcurrants, aniseed and well-integrated oak. Richblackberries and mint, along with cedary, cassis and herbaceous flavours with silkyspicy French oak complementing the fruit. but firm tannins.Generous palate with ripe tannins that CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:provide structure but are silky and sweet. Phone: (08) 8389 9488CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8383 0186 Web: www.birdinhand.com.auE-mail: [email protected]: www.scarpantoniwines.com Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 73

“Logic Wealth Group & Felmeri Homes -Building wealth, while drinking good wine!” W E A LT H G R O U P Felmeri Homeswww.logicwealthgroup.com.au Phone: (08) 8232 7272 www.felmerihomes.com.au Phone: (08) 8293 6696

SHIRAZ/SYRAH of the yearwine of the year WINNER WIN NER THE LOGIC WEALTH GROUP & FELMERI HOMES TROPHY Saracen Estates Margaret River Shiraz 2010 WINEMAKER: Bob Cartwright. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Deep ruby red colour. Fresh, spicy nose of white pepper with violets and plums, balanced by a blend of American and French oak barriques. The palate is soft, with some richness in the mid-palate. Again there are the white pepper and fruit flavours with soft tannins and clean acid finish. This wine will improve with short-term cellaring. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Rich, tomato-based pasta, venison or lamb. CELLARING: Until 2025. VITICULTURE: The vines were planted in 2004 on a mixture of clay and sandy loam soils, which gives uneven cropping, leading to a mixture of flavours that give the wine its complex flavours. The vines are cane-pruned vines and are north-south in orientation. Vintage 2010 was very good, with warm days, cool nights and no significant rain events. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: The grapes were hand-harvested to avoid petiole bitterness. After picking, the grapes were destemmed and crushed, chilled and the must was pumped to a red fermenter. Initial pumping over was three times a day and reduced as the ferment progressed. Skin contact after fermentation was three days. Pressing used a membrane press and malolactic fermentation was in 15 per cent new and 60 per cent used American oak, with the balance older French oak. Time in barrel was 10 months. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: (08) 9486 9410 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.saracenestates.com.auSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 75

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS SALTRAM MAMRE BROOK CHATEAU TANUNDA BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2010 TERROIRS OF THE BAROSSA LYNDOCH SHIRAZ 2009 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Shavaughn Wells. Tim Smith. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: The colour is a deep purple hue. This is Deep, dense crimson/purple colour. a shiraz of great depth, characterised Dark cherry fruit with rich, kirsch-like by intense aromas of blackberry and notes, dark chocolate and spicy oak. savoury black olives, made complex with The palate is textured and layered, with spice and licorice. On the palate the wine the dark berry fruit aromas, and with a offers generous, rich characters of fresh long finish, complemented by defining plums, chocolate and cloves, elegantly oak tannins. balanced with fine, chalky tannins. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: (08) 8563 3888 Phone: +61 8 8561 0200 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.saltramwines.com.au Web: www.chateautanunda.com76 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

LECONFIELD MCLAREN VALE CRAGGY RANGE GIMBLETTSHIRAZ 2010 GRAVELS SYRAH 2010WINEMAKER: WINEMAKERS:Paul Gordon. Rod Easthope and Matt Stafford.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Full, dense red with vibrant scarlet Dark, deep, purple-hued ruby red. On thehighlight. Bouquet of concentrated dark nose, ripe fresh cherry melds with floralfruit with hints of pepper and mocha; this honeysuckle and lavender notes andwine has the unmistakable characteristics black pepper. The satin-like texture givesof rich McLaren Vale shiraz. Oak has way to fleshy, vibrant blueberry fruit. Thecontributed spicy overtones of nutmeg, palate finishes with some charcoal andvanilla and cinnamon. The palate is flint to add mineral interest and complexity.full-bodied, with long, fine tannins to CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:create great depth, finesse and style. Phone: +64 6 873 7126The concentrated fruit is balanced with E-mail: [email protected] acidity. Web: www.craggyrange.comCONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: (08) 8323 8830E-mail: [email protected]: www.leconfieldwines.com Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 77

It’s all about innovationAmcor GlassFor more information contactAmcor Glass Customer ServicePh (08) 8521 [email protected]

SWEET WHITE of the year WIN NER THE AMCOR GLASS TROPHYPertaringa Autumn HarvestMcLaren Vale Riesling 2010 (375ml)WINEMAKER:Shane Harris.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Golden straw yellow with green hue. Bouquet of lychee,musk, lime zest and citrus blossom with tree-ripenedstone-fruits. Delicate sweetness gives a lusciousnessto the palate with ripe stone-fruit and citrus notes with arefreshing crisp acid finish.FOOD SUGGESTIONS:Great with lime curd tart, but if you care to be a littlemore daring try it with pickled octopus on cucumber, redonion and feta salad with lemon and oregano-infused oil.CELLARING:Drink now to 2032.VITICULTURE:The grapes, entirely McLaren Vale fruit, were 50 per centbotrytis rot and 50 per cent late harvest, all one blocknatural infection, picked at the same time.VINIFICATION & MATURATION:Free-run juice in cool stainless steel ferment. Pressingswere barrel fermented; free run and pressings werefermented separately then blended, naturally settledand racked. Alcohol: 10.3 per cent by volume; Ph 2.80;RS 180g/L and TA 9.18 g/L.CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: (08) 8383 2700E-mail: [email protected]: www.pertaringa.com.auSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 79

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS RIVERBY ESTATE HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF NOBLE SAUVIGNON BLANC HARDY NOBLE INTENT BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2011 VERDELHO 2010 (375ML) WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Dave Knappstein. Shane Harris. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Bright gold in colour, with an enticing aroma Golden, straw-yellow. Excellent botrytis of rich stone-fruits, honey, vanilla and ripe, flavours of honeysuckle, pineapple and roasted, nutty characters. It has a beguiling cumquat. Sweet tropical fruit flavours, sensual quality; ripe peaches, passionfruit with passionfruit and mango notes. and citrus floating in a sea of honey all CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: contribute to its complexity and depth. Phone: (08) 8383 2700 It is very sweet, but beautifully balanced E-mail: [email protected] and with a lovely clean, long finish. Web: www.handcrafted.com.au CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 2 1172 4981 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.riverbyestate.com80 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

DE BORTOLI DEEN SADDLER’S CREEK WINESDE BORTOLI VAT 5 BOTRYTIS SUPREME BOTRYTISSEMILLON 2008 (375ML) SEMILLON 2008 (375ML)WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER:Julie Mortlock. Nick Flanagan.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Mid-straw yellow. Enticing aromas of Deep golden straw colour. The bouquetcitrus zest, peach and bush honey with presents aromas of apricots, figs anda wisp of quince and sweet vanillin nuances of spicy French oak and liftedoak. Layers of botrytis flavours such as floral aromas of lilac. Rich and at the samecumquat, citrus and a rich blend of stone- time without the over-cloying sweetnessfruits, accompanied by attractive French typical of some dessert wines. Flavours ofoak and finishing with a slight touch of tropical fruits, apricots and honey abound,refreshing acidity. finishing with a long, fine, acid balance.CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: (02) 6966 0100 Phone: (02) 4991 1770E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.debortoli.com.au Web: www.saddlerscreek.com.au Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 81

We’ve spent so many hoursresearching your industry, it’s given us a headache.At Donaldson Walsh Lawyers, we sales and purchases, lease and number of peak bodies and tradeinvest time and energy to understand supply agreements, brand labelling associations.our clients’ commercial, industry and trademarks, employee andand market sector issues. contractor agreements, liquor For further information about licenses, dispute resolution and Donaldson Walsh Lawyers and ourAs advisers to some of the most more. wine industry expertise, please callprominent wineries in the country – +61 8 8410 2555.along with leading suppliers to the And our commitment to the wineAustralian wine industry – our sector extends beyond our clients – www.donaldsonwalsh.com.aulawyers are known for their insight with our lawyers represented onand expertise. industry boards and committees, and the firm actively involved as aOur wine law specialists regularly member and corporate partner of aadvise on business issues including

FORTIFIED of the year WIN NER THE DONALDSON WALSH LAWYERS TROPHY Baileys of Glenrowan Winemakers Selection Rare Old Topaque NV WINEMAKER: Paul Dahlenburg. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Blended from specially selected parcels of muscadelle grapes, this wine is a deep caramel-gold in hue and features tantalising aromas of toffee, butterscotch and malt. The full palate shows a delightful complexity, with extended maturation in old oak giving the wine the optimum balance of fruit, depth and length. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Sublime on its own, but also a fine accompaniment to warm winter desserts. CELLARING: Offers a memorable drinking experience now. Ideally, drink within three months of opening the bottle to gain the best from the wine. VITICULTURE: Baileys of Glenrowan, in the world-renowned fortified wine region of North East Victoria, has some of Victoria’s oldest vines. After the devastation of phylloxera at the turn of the last century, the vines were replanted in the rich granite soil below the Warby Ranges. The Glenrowan region has long, warm summers with very little rainfall, allowing fruit to develop intense flavours and high natural sugar levels. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: Baileys of Glenrowan has some of Victoria’s oldest plantings of vines. After the devastation of phylloxera at the turn of the last century, the vines were replanted in the rich granite soil below the Warby Ranges. The Glenrowan region has long, warm summers with very little rainfall, allowing fruit to develop intense flavours and high natural sugar levels. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: (03) 5766 1600 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.baileysofglenrowan.com.auSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 83

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS 919 WINES PALE DRY APERA NV 919 WINES CLASSIC TAWNY NV WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Eric Semmler. Eric Semmler. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale cream hues. Fresh seaside, apple Attractive tawny hues. Complex spice, and nut aromas. The palate is elegant and nut and integrated brandy aromas. soft, with a fine, persistent finish. The palate is rich and intense, with a long, CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: velvety finish. Phone: 0417 997 414 CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 0417 997 414 Web: www.919wines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.919wines.com.au84 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

Whatever you sell - products or services, labour or ideas - Donaldson Walsh (DW) can help your business reach a higher level. Recognised by Best Lawyers Australia, Doyle’s Guide to the Australian Legal Profession and the Franchising Council of Australia, our exceptional knowledge and skills span:BAILEYS OF GLENROWAN • Agribusiness • International TradeWINEMAKERS SELECTIONRARE OLD MUSCAT NV • Commercial Disputes • Personal Injury Law & InsolvencyWINEMAKER: • PropertyPaul Dahlenburg. • Competition &COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Consumer Law • Self Insurance,Dense reddish-brown in the glass, this Workers Compensationmuscat displays aromas of raisin, orange • Corporate & & Workplace Lawblossom and molasses with a hint of rose Commercialpetal, developing into a decadent palate • Taxation & Revenueof mellow fruit flavours with a careful • Franchisingbalance of richness and sweetness. • Wills, EstatesSimply a stunning wine. • Insurance & Business SuccessionCONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: (03) 5766 1600 • IP & Technology • Wine & Hospitality.E-mail: [email protected] Visit our website to learn more:Web: www.baileysofglenrowan.com.au www.donaldsonwalsh.com.au Kings Chambers 320 King William Street Adelaide SA 5000 [email protected] Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 85

AUSTRALIAN winemaker of the yearSHANE HARRIS, WINES BY GEOFF HARDYHARRIS HOES A DIFFERENT PATH TO EXCELLENCENIGEL HOPKINSONE OF THE MOST telling reviews of a K1 sauvignon blanc McLaren Vintners, a 1500 tonne contract winemaking facility, he had graduated to assistant winemaker. This was where he met Geoffmade by winemaker Shane Harris said he “exerts a gastronomic Hardy and his partner at Pertaringa, Ian Leask, who had much of theirintelligence in his winemaking philosophy”. wine made at that winery, and he obviously made a good impression because in 2009 Hardy poached him to work exclusively as senior Which is not surprising given that Harris started his professional life winemaker for Pertaringa and K1 by Geoff Hardy.as a chef. And although he grew up in rum territory at Bundaberg, theregion is also prominent as a fruit bowl and his parents ran a plant Although Hardy intends to build his own winery at some stage,nursery, which combined to give him a strong horticultural affinity and already has a site in mind, for the time being he continuesright from the start. Little wonder then, that he’s found a kindred to use wine making facilities such as McLaren Vintners, which isspirit in Geoff Hardy at Wines by Geoff Hardy, whose passion for to Harris’ advantage because he knows the place inside out andexploring the potential of new varieties meant that this year Harris understands its capabilities. “We all want to do things like thathas made wines from 32 different varieties. “We’re not just planting (to build our own winery) due to the economies and control thatfruit salad for the hell of it,” he says. “We’re now on a real journey brings,” says Hardy. “It may happen one day, but for now we canof exploration. We still have the traditional varieties of course, but make wine at wineries that best suit the style of each of our wines,with the new varieties there are no rules, we’re still making it up.” in small batches and with the right equipment.” There is a parallel between his wine making world today and Harris works with three wine ranges - K1 by Geoff Hardy,that of Australian chefs 20 years ago when they discovered they Pertaringa and Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy - each with its owndidn’t have to be bound by the strict rules of classic French or house style. “I think it’s very important to have consistent houseItalian cuisine, and could fuse traditional European and Asian styles,” Harris adds. “It provides a clear point of distinction nottechniques and ingredients to create something unique. They just between each grape variety but also the way they are treated.were the heretics of the New World. “We now have everything at They all have to have clear personality traits.our doorstep, but the rules have not been set,” says Winestate’snew Winemaker of the Year. Australia is very progressive in accepting different winemaking techniques. It gives us room to move and arneis is probably the Harris, 34, made his start when he backed away from the stress best example of how we’ve now achieved a set house style with aof restaurant hours to work part-time as a cellar hand with award- newer variety to Australia. We don’t want to take liberties with thesewinning Stanthorpe winemaker Bruce Humphrey-Smith, doing his alternative varieties, but it’s also quite liberating. It’s where youfirst vintage in 2000. At times he also found himself working with can let your hair down a little and get a bit more creative in yourlocal winemakers Peter Scudamore-Smith MW and Heritage Estate winemaking techniques.”contract winemaker Jim Barnes. FINALISTS The following year Barnes offered him a full-time job as a cellar handin his 50-tonne winery and with his wife, Renee, he moved to Stanthorpe A. B. C.just in time for the birth of his daughter, Faith. Barnes, a former scienceteacher, taught Harris everything from laboratory work to bottling, A. Steven Frost - Wolf Blasshand labelling and working in the cellar door: “It was the most fun I’d B. Shavaughn Wells - Saltramever had,” says Harris, who by now had enrolled in the winemaking C. Adam Eggins - Taylorscourse at Charles Sturt. “As a starting position it was a pretty handy D. Nick Flanagan - Saddler’s Creekplace to be, a small winery where you had to learn to do everything.And it was an exciting town to be in, very food and produce focused.” D. Harris stayed for two years, then moved to the Strathbogies for onevintage (at what was then Dominion, now Plunkett Fowler), beforeaccepting a cellar hand position at d’Arenberg in McLaren Vale:“Everyone had told me we had to go south, so we packed up abuilder’s trailer with all our stuff and set off.” A year later he movedto Classic McLaren, still as a cellar hand - “the only cellar hand, infact, and the first year we did 380 tonnes and I dug 380 tonnes ofskins by myself, I did all the lab work, all the cellar work and helpedout on the mobile bottling line.” It was the sort of experience thatsorts out the men from the boys and in 2006 when he moved to86 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

NEW ZEALAND winemaker of the yearHAMISH CLARK, SAINT CLAIR FAMILY ESTATEKEEPING IT IN THE FAMILYMICHAEL COOPERHIS NAME will be unfamiliar to many Winestate readers as he Clark has been delighted by the response to the company’s fizz - Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Marlborough Sauvignon Blanconly recently reached the top of Saint Clair’s production team, Bubbles - launched from the 2010 vintage. “We’ve had commentsbut it’s not a huge surprise that Hamish Clark is our New Zealand from people who aren’t generally bubbly drinkers, who are reallyWinemaker of the Year. impressed with it,” he says. Saint Clair - Marlborough’s largest family-owned producer - last About the future of pinot noir in the region, he is definitely upbeat.year won Winestate’s New Zealand Wine Company of the Year “It’s a grape variety I’ve had time to deal with in the earlier daystrophy. In 2010, Saint Clair swept the NZ pool, winning the same of my career, when I was the red-wine maker. The years aheadtrophy and our New Zealand Winemaker of the Year trophy, of us will be exciting, as the vines get more age, because that iswhich went to Matt Thomson (who also scooped the trophy in what has been hamstringing Marlborough’s pinot noir production2008. Thomson, long Saint Clair’s chief winemaker, last year to date, so far as quality grapes. With vine age comes darker fruits,took the position of wine consultant, allowing Clark, then senior a better tannin structure and better quality wine.”winemaker, to be promoted. The job titles “chief” and “senior”were dropped. Thomson and Clark are now joint leaders of Saint The youthfulness of Marlborough’s vines is a key factor. “We getClair’s winemaking team, with Clark as “winemaker” and Thomson laughed at by our growers. Each year we do a grower tasting. Theyas “consultant”. On the front and back labels of Saint Clair’s front up; Matt and I say it’s one of the best vintages we’ve eversauvignon blancs from the 2012 vintage they share equal billing seen. They say: ‘Yer…. but you said that last year’. The vines areas the company’s “winemakers”. so young, every year we see little lifts in quality.” For Thomson, who has been involved with Saint Clair since its Is the arresting quality of Marlborough’s top pinot noirs fullyinception in 1994, the move to a consultancy position formalised appreciated? “Marlborough is an underrated area, often trumpedwhat many had long assumed, given his host of other commitments. by the likes of Central Otago and Waipara,” he says. “It’s just aClark has the “hands-on winemaking role”, says Saint Clair. Which matter of time before the general public find out what Marlboroughis definitely not to suggest that he’s the only full-time winemaker. pinot noir is capable of.” He loves drinking it.As you’d expect of a large winery - Saint Clair ranks amongthe country’s 10 largest producers - Clark heads a large team, Why do Saint Clair’s wines offer such notable quality and value?including white-wine maker Stewart Maclennan and red-wine “One of Neal’s philosophies has always been about driving qualitymaker Kyle Thompson. - how do we do it better? If we’ve just won a trophy for something, he’ll pat me on the back and say, ‘That’s great, Hame, but how From the University of Otago to Scotland Yard and Saint Clair, do we do it better?’ I’ll say: ‘You’ve just won a prestigious trophyClark has carved out a unique career path. After graduating as here.’ It’s that quest for quality, all the time…”.a Bachelor of Science in microbiology and zoology in 1997, heworked in the Home Office (UK) DNA Forensics Department of the FINALISTSForensic Science Services. Keen to travel throughout Europe, hetook up locum work at hospitals as a medical laboratory assistant A. B. C.while indulging his “passion for wine”. A. Dominic Maxwell - Greystone With “little more than a backpack full of T-shirts”, in 2001 Clark B. Alastair Mailing - Villa Mariareturned to his hometown, Blenheim. A friend suggested that - just C. Paul Bourgeois - Spy Valleyto fill in time - he should work a vintage. The rest is history. D. Chris Scott - Church Road Joining Saint Clair in 2001 as a cellar hand and laboratory D.manager, Clark climbed the ladder swiftly. Within a year, he wasassistant winemaker and by 2003, red winemaker. When he wasappointed senior winemaker in 2006, his boss, Neal Ibbotson,enthused: “He shares our philosophy of winemaking and hisforensic mind lends itself to palate perfection!” Thomson says “Hamish has been a vital part of the Saint Clairfamily for many years and has made a huge contribution to thecompany’s success. I have enormous respect for Hamish as awinemaker and as a person. We have worked together every yearon all the wines…”. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 87

AUSTRALIAN wine company of the yearWINES BY GEOFF HARDYMAKING THE MOST OF FAMILY HERITAGENIGEL HOPKINSIT MIGHT SEEM almost inconceivable, but Geoff Hardy - fifth grafted other varieties such as chardonnay, even muscat gordo, on to some of the shiraz vines. That’s now been reversed.generation descendant of pioneer winemaker Thomas Hardy, ason of one of Australia’s most famous wine families - nearly tossed K1 gave Hardy the opportunity to try cool-climate varieties: “In thein all that heritage to become a fitter and turner. early days, as soon as we had Pertaringa we wanted also to have a cooler-climate vineyard. That was Croser’s influence, to make more Anyone who understands about rural or business succession elegant wines,” he says. “And many years ago, Thomas Hardy hadmight understand. Hardy was the youngest of four brothers, the said that all the great Australian wines would come from higherfamily business was not to be his by right, he would have to make country. K1 was the fourth property I’d looked at, nearly 3C coolerhis own way in life. “My father would have understood - he was an than Pertaringa but only 15km away, which made it easier to manage.”engineer,” Hardy says. “But very soon I began asking myself ‘whatam I doing on a drill press when I could be out there growing things’.” The first plantings were safe - pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. But it wasn’t long before the grower in Hardy was And growing things very soon became his business, from the looking for new challenges with new varieties he’d discovered in hissmall native plant nursery he ran while also working in Hardy’s travels such as tannat, durif, dolcetto, arneis, lagrein and teroldegovineyards and studying wine production and wine marketing at (planted on separate vineyards he now owns at Langhorne CreekRoseworthy, to growing a wine business now known as Wines by and Wirrega, near Bordertown in SA’s south-east). This was new,Geoff Hardy and this year’s Australian Wine Company of the Year. experimental territory. “We wanted to see how these varietiesWines by Geoff Hardy is, since last year, actually a three-pronged performed,” he says. “They were all untried and could go intobusiness that brings together the K1 by Geoff Hardy, Pertaringa blends or as individual wines. But to wear the K1 label they had toWines and Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy brands, all with very perform well for at least three years such as our gruner veltliner.”different origins, styles and intentions. Today, Hardy and his family produce 12,000 cases under Hardy completed his diploma in wine production in 1977 at the age the Pertaringa brand, exporting to Canada, Singapore, Taiwanof 21 and, having put all engineering thoughts aside, began working and Malaysia. In 2011, he acquired the remaining share of thein his family’s 160-year-old wine business. While he greatly enjoyed Pertaringa wine business to become its sole brand custodian. Histhe grower liaison work he did for the company, which brought him McLaren Vale brand (Pertaringa) continues to be sourced from ain contact with a great variety of vineyards, it was his own passion number of vineyards around McLaren Vale, including some of thefor growing things and the fact that in his day job he couldn’t get his original Hardy’s vineyards.hands dirty that drove him in 1980 to buy the Pertaringa vineyard, inthe foothills behind McLaren Vale, with fellow viticulturist Ian Leask. The same year he launched his Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy“You can’t help but want to do your own thing,” Hardy says, “and range of wines, aimed at low volume, new varietal wines. TogetherPertaringa was an incredibly good, young (planted in 1970-71) with the estate-grown K1 by Geoff Hardy, these brands now makeshiraz vineyard and it was at a very reasonable price.” up Wines by Geoff Hardy. The 33ha Pertaringa property, with 26ha under vines, would WINES BY GEOFF HARDYbecome the backbone of the fledging independent Geoff Hardybusiness, although he would stay on with Hardys until 1988 FINALISTS Penny’s Hill/Mr Riggsinvolved in grape purchasing, grape contracts and vineyard Saltramassessment. After that he continued as a vineyard consultant to Morris Winesthe Hardys, was involved in planting more than 3000ha of vines Taylorsand was a consultant to more than 200 different vineyards aroundAustralia. It gave him unrivalled experience and the confidence topioneer a new grapegrowing sub-region when in 1986 he bought aformer dairy property near Kuipto Forest and named it K1 Vineyard- Kuitpo one, the first planting of vines in that district. It was time to cut ties with the family business. With Hardysalone he was responsible for 80 company-owned vineyards underthe demanding regimes of Brian Croser and Geoff Weaver. AtPertaringa they’d resisted the vine-pull temptation of the early1980s, when good shiraz grapes had little value: “We didn’tsuccumb...we had a longer-term view,” Hardy says. But they had88 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

NEW ZEALAND wine company of the yearVILLA MARIASWEET SUCCESS MARKS A YEAR OF CELEBRATIONMICHAEL COOPERNEW ZEALAND has over 700 wine producers but one has Villa Maria’s general manager for winemaking and viticulture, believes arneis from New Zealand has “real drinkability andclearly been the best over the past 15 years, based on Winestate’s a future to it”. Syrah, a heat-demanding variety, has limitedtastings. For the 12th time, our New Zealand Wine Company of the geographic potential in New Zealand, so although “it has aYear award goes to Villa Maria. really exciting future… it’s never going to be big”. In terms of style, Maling is looking for less oaky, more complex wines. For It’s good timing because Villa Maria has been particularly chardonnay, that means greater use of indigenous rather thanbusy this year celebrating its 50th vintage. The origins of the cultured yeasts, and a longer period of lees-ageing. With Villacompany lie in a tiny operation, Mountain Vineyards, run as a Maria’s Bordeaux-style reds, cabernet sauvignon is staging ahobby by Croatian immigrant Andrew Fistonich, who arrived comeback, reflecting the benefits of vine age.in Auckland just before the Depression. After working on thenorthern gumfields, Fistonich became a market gardener, made One thing is definite – the wine cannot sell solely on price. “In aa few bottles of wine for himself and friends, then became a cool-climate country the grapes take a long time to ripen and thelicensed winemaker in 1949. When illness slowed him down, his flavours are very slow-developing,” says Fistonich. “We cannotson George abandoned his career plans in carpentry, leased over-crop the vine, so therefore, to get the grapes ripe we havehis father’s 0.8ha vineyard, formed a new company, and bought to fruit-thin which increases the cost of production. By the samea press, barrels and pumps. In 1962, Villa Maria Hock nosed token, you are also increasing the quality of the wine.”out into the market. Villa Maria is now the largest producer in Hawke’s Bay’s best- The 50th anniversary road show saw Sir George Fistonich (New known red-wine district, the Gimblett Gravels. In September,Zealand’s only wine knight) travelling the globe, hosting celebration Fistonich announced his purchase of Te Awa Winery and its 100haevents in the US, Canada, Asia, Australia, the UK and Europe. vineyard, which will enable Villa Maria to satisfy growing demand”Most of our sales are overseas, with the UK our biggest market,” for its merlot-based reds and syrahs. Te Awa - which also ownshe says. “When we first went there in the 1980s to sell our wines the brand Kidnapper Cliffs - will not be merged with the Villa Mariawe almost had to explain where New Zealand was on a map.” operation, but be kept as a separate, “boutique” producer.Today, Villa Maria’s annual sales in the UK are approaching halfa million cases. So what is the key to Villa Maria’s burgeoning international success? Patrick McGrath MW, managing director of Hatch The fastest-growing market is China. In September, Villa Mansfield, which has distributed Villa Maria in the UK sinceMaria unveiled its fully translated Mandarin website at an online the late 1980s, points to Fistonich’s astute management oflaunch event through the social media platform Weibo (China’s people. Ultimately Fistonich allows them to go on and do theirequivalent of Twitter). Villa Maria’s 2012 vintage wines also carry job. He’s also extremely good at listening and that’s why stylesa QR code sticker directing users to the company’s Mandarin have changed.mobile site. Villa Maria has been exporting to China since 2000.In 2010, it appointed its first dedicated Asia market manager FINALISTS Craggy Rangeand last year it appointed its first China-based employee. Church Road Saint Clair Villa Maria prides itself on being ahead of the game. Among its Greystone Winesmajor innovations have been New Zealand’s first bonus systemfor grape-growers, which rewarded growers for quality ratherthan quantity; establishing a separate public company to buyand own vineyards, ensuring a consistent supply of grapes forVilla Maria; and becoming the first large company in the world tobottle all of its wines with screw caps. A biography of Sir GeorgeFistonich was published in September (The Winemaker, by KerryTyack, published by Random House). So does Fistonich, nowin his early 70s, live in the lap of luxury? “I live a fairly humblelife,” he says. “I like quality. I eat well, drink well. And I havea holiday home by one of the beaches north of Auckland, andin Fiji. That is my indulgence. But I am not one for fast cars…” Innovation is constant, including research into new grapevarieties to supplement sauvignon blanc. Alistair Maling MW, Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 89



WINE of the yearSARACEN’S STAND-OUTSHIRAZ OUR TOP DROP PRODUCED FROM AN ‘UGLY DUCKLING’ BLOCK OF GRAPES, A SILKY-SMOOTH RED IS TURNING HEADS.MIKE ZEKULICH some where the vines are quite vigorous structure, flavour and intensity to take with lots of foliage. Others produce very more oak. Our fruit is picked selectivelyWINEMAKER Bob Cartwright refers to little foliage and the vines find it tough. Then and sorted in the vineyard. Margaret River there is some in between. “When the dam shiraz I have seen are more food styleit as the “ugly duckling block”. His principal was dug out, the soil was used to fill out a wines, fantastic with dishes like lamb.”Maree Saraceni calls it “junky”. They are hollow,” Cartwright says. “The result is inreferring to the low-yielding 3ha of shiraz on that area, there is a lot of clay.” The multi-award winning Saracen Estatesthe 17ha Saracen Estates sourced vineyard is on Caves Rd at the northern boundary ofat Margaret River, which has shocked At first sight, he was dubious. “But right Willyabrup, home to many of the region’sby beating South Australia’s best - and from the original shiraz vintage, we knew big-name producers and often referredthose from elsewhere in the country - for we had something really special,” he to as the “purple circle”. It represents aWinestate’s top Wine of the Year award. says. So plans for a lot of work to bring $17 million dollar development by Ms the block into line with the rest of the Saraceni and her former husband, property There has only been one such WA property were quickly shelved. The “ugly developer Luke. The 40ha property andwinner before - and it was not a shiraz. duckling” had provided its unusual soil buildings were sold last month for $5.8That success, in 2005, went to the combination giving the shiraz its beautiful million, but the Saraceni family retains anVasse Felix Heytesbury Cabernet Blend. characteristics. “Often the wine shows interest in the site through the lease to runPreviously, a Saracen Estates cabernet was quite a bit of white pepper rather than the restaurant, cellar door and joint venturejudged Winestate’s best in category. Bob black,” says Cartwright. “The wines are brewery facility, until at least 2018. Its labelCartwright, consultant Saracen winemaker very fruity, very rich, quite unlike South will be unaffected and the vineyard willsince 2006, says the vineyard’s “ugly Australian wines. Our wines are softer, continue to be the label’s main fruit source.duckling” shiraz block would be “lucky” more elegant, rich mid-palate styles.to produce 10 tonnes of fruit a year. The We can’t put a lot of oak into the wine, For years, the family, (including theirblock is part of a former blue gum plantation normally 11-12 months, about 30 per cent three children who are now involvedwhich he believes leached the goodness new American, otherwise the wine would with marketing) visited and holidayedfrom the soils, leaving the vines to battle in be swamped. We also do not pick the in the area, helping develop a lovea harder environment. fruit to the really high ripe almost jammy of wine. When a wine import-export character that the Barossa does. They business associate ran into trouble, they “Other soil variations combine to give have higher alcoholic wines with more decided to help out the family who hadthe wine wonderful flavours,” he says. The nothing else left, with a small investment.block is made up of different soil patches, Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 91

HAVING A WINE BUSINESS IS A BIT LIKE OWNING A BOAT. THEY BOTH COST YOU A FORTUNE. BUT LIKE A BOAT, THEY BECOME A PASSION.As a result, they later asked themselves: ‘Whydon’t we go into the business and export ourown wines?’ Production began in 1998 at adifferent location and from sourced fruit. “Wecame in loving wine, but not knowing a lotabout it so we made sure we employed theright people,” Ms Saraceni says. The first Caves Rd vines were plantedin 2003, with the pioneering chardonnaymade three years later. Saracen nowproduces 10 wines, including a bubblyselling domestically, most at cellar door.“Having a wine business is a bit like owninga boat. They both cost you a fortune.But like a boat, they become a passion,”Ms Saraceni says. Saracen wines are made under contractat the modern state-of-the-art Thompson92 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

winery 4km from the vineyard - a far cry a WA icon boosted by the flagship Friends and associates warned Msfrom Cartwright’s early 44-gallon-drum chardonnays Cartwright had made over the Saraceni that mixing wine and beer woulddays in which he fermented his first Swan years, to be considered a benchmark for not work. They were wrong. “We have notValley chardonnay. Cartwright had come the Australian industry. His first chardonnay, had to close in the quiet times for a couplefrom Nuriootpa in the Barossa Valley, where in the 44-gallon drum, was made in 1974 of days as others have,” she says. “I thinkhis father was a painter and decorator, to when employed at the long gone Valencia that is because we are a one-stop shop.”develop his skills. He had joined Kaiser vineyard in the Swan Valley and that wasStuhl when he left school and a chance all the fruit available. But emulating Saracen’s latest Winestatespell in the laboratory led to studies in success will be a tougher task. “I love ourwinemaking at Roseworthy. His wine career So it was decided to ferment it in the drum shiraz,” Ms Saraceni says. “It is lovely andthen took him back to the Kaiser before it was delivered in. smooth, yet full-bodied at the same time.Wolf Blass, a good friend, suggested he It seems to have great balance and is atry his skills with Houghton-Valencia in In a few short years, Saracen has become pleasure to drink. We make a good shirazWA. Heeding the advice, he headed west, something of a district icon. Besides a range year after year yet it was a junky block (notgoing on to spend 28 consecutive vintages of high-quality whites and reds, its unique great soils) that we planted the vines on.”at Margaret River’s high-profile Leeuwin man-made lake and island is a featureEstate, including the first in 1978. attraction of the waterside cellar door, micro- Above: Entrance to the cellar door. brewery and restaurant facility. It was the Left: General Manager Dennis Parker, cellar door During his reign, Leeuwin was to become first of its kind in the district, a model that manager Michelle Yugovich, Duckstein restaurant others have since followed in various forms. manager Sam Oliver, winemaker Bob Cartwright, owner Maree Saraceni and winemaker James Kalleske. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 93

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELBistrot Bistro opened a couple of years someone so young (he is 28). He calls chef The stand-out entree is capellini pastaago in the quaint Woolloongabba enclave and innovator Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz tossed in sea urchin butter with Moretonthat has gradually morphed from antique one of his mentors, having spent three years Bay bug and ikura caviar. It arrives in astreet to eat street. Next door is 1889 in his famed kitchen after two years at Le shallow bowl, a tangle of beautifully cookedEnoteca, one of the city’s favourite Italian Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in England under thin spaghetti, not al dente but deliciouslyrestaurants and cellars, and on the other Raymond Blanc and a stint at Luca Fantin at and perfectly cooked, thirsty for its sauce,side is Canvas, an uber-cool little cocktail the Bulgari Hotel in Tokyo. Now he and his with a plump piece of bug on the side.bar with a slew of awards. Further down young team are taking Brisbane by storm withthe road is Pearl, arguably Brisbane’s an innovative and delicious menu that features De-boned and roasted quail comes inmost popular cafe, now boasting The specials such as lamb and peas - the lamb, thick slices stuffed with chestnut and sitsServery, a new eatery on the first floor juicy and outlined with a finely caramelised around the ubiquitous line of mushroomabove the cafe. crust, sits surrounded by tiny sugar snap soil over a swipe of pureed spinach. It’s peas liberated from their pods, which are also moist and luxurious and works really well Across the road in the two-level ex- finely julienned and incorporated into the dish, with the spinach. Crispy-skinned tea-antique emporium is Crosstown Eating adding crunch and the freshness and texture smoked barramundi sits over a fennelHouse, serving modern French cuisine. of an old-fashioned lamb dinner, albeit with a cream and is lush and well executed.Owner Lyndon Perry has brought chef thoroughly modern makeover. Wagyu skirt and braised oxtail with carrotMinh Li (ex-Medusa and Deer Duck puree and jamon crumbs also deservesBistro) in to head up the kitchen team. On Coral trout is served raw with lemon puree investigation, as does the Peking duckthe menu are classics like escargot with and a sweet-savoury cream of leeks and dumplings in duck consomme.garlic bearnaise, baby spring chicken with herbs that you scoop with a squid ink-pomme mousseline and confit shallots, infused chard of lavash that looks like a layer There is a ‘market table’ menu of ready-and blue-eye cod with baby peas and sea of charred leek. It works, especially in the to-go offerings that are housed in and onurchin foam, but Li adds a contemporary chunky black earthenware bowls. Organic the counter and includes blousy muffinsspin and a nod to his Asian heritage with chicken wings with Jerusalem artichoke and delicious-looking homemade sausageconfit ocean trout with Thai pesto and feature on the larger menu, as does rainbow rolls that seem to go to about every tablepork crumble. trout with paprika, yoghurt and quince. around us. Lemon meringue in pieces Bread is served warm over a bowl of hot with popcorn ice cream is wonderful - The room is rustic and woody, with a cosy rocks - perfectly heated and staying that raspberry dust is powerful and adds thesunken bar and striped banquette seating way for the duration of the course. necessary acid but the promised saltedmixed with bistro chairs and ornate tiled tables caramel is a little shy.and leather lounges. Downstairs is a brick- There’s an impressive new crew aboutwalled cellar which has been transformed to descend, all of whom are alumni of Open for breakfast and lunch everyinto a great function space. Rustic wooden some pretty serious locations both here day and dinner on Thursday, Friday andtables and bistro chairs bring the look and abroad. Alejandro met Chris Kenny Saturday night, Champ will become atogether with warmth and style. 14 Logan (Young Chef of the Year 2011) at Le Manoir Southbank institution. It has all the hallmarksRd, Woolloongabba; phone (07) 3162 1185. aux Quat’Saisons, and also met William of a venue that will work even in these up- Wallace, ex-Bentley and The Royal Mail in and-down times. The food is more formal Argentine-born Alejandro Cancino is the Dunkeld, during his six months at Noma; than I expected but that will probablynew chef of Urbane and is already turning both have recently joined the team. It’s a change with the seasons. 114 Grey St,heads and tantalising palates. Mexican-born serious line-up of young guns - brimming Southbank; phone (07) 3844 4470.Alejandro has an impressive track record for with enough global experience but still bounding with youthful energy - that will Above: Bistrot Bistro interior. propel Urbane, on the eve of its 11th birthday, to the culinary levels it hasn’t enjoyed for the past few years. 181 Mary St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3229 3686. Champ is Anouk owner Justine Whelan’s second venue opening onto the parklands at Southbank. With reclaimed wooden slats and a cement floor and ceiling, service counter and bar sitting in front of an open kitchen, fabulous light fittings and an eclectic mix of retro-styled furnishings, there is nothing not to like about the ambience and location. It screams Brisbane but in a really good way.94 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

melbournegrapvine HILARY McNEVINWe are still loving our burgers and its edgy but delicious layers of texture and At Rockwell & Sons, formerly ProvenanceAmerican-style food here in Melbourne. classic finish. There’s also wagyu wellington Food and Wine, the room has beenFried chicken and chowders are also (a large dish for sharing or served in single transformed by Melbourne interior designerappearing on menus in many inner-city portions), as well as crispy pigs’ ears, sticky Nicola Dovey into a clever balance of dinerhubs, particularly the inner-north, serving beef brisket in a bun and crayfish thermidor. meets bar. Head chef Casey Wall, a UScrowds of enthusiastic diners who are native who has worked at le Cirque and Theloving this casual and affordable style of The wine list, by sommelier Raul Moreno Spotted Pig in New York and Cutler and Co infood. Backed up with savvy drinks lists Yague, is studied and supportive of Melbourne, hopes to offer an approachablethat, more often than not, support local the menu, all the while featuring its own vibe where people can simply eat, drinkproducers, the dining scene is taking a quirkiness and exploratory nature and with or do both. In fact, Casey says he aims tonew angle and Melburnians are loving it. a section featuring natural wines, beers and “close the gap between the pub meal and ciders from around the world. 31 Flinders fine dining”, offering customers share-friendly At 440 square metres, new restaurant Lane, Melbourne; phone (03) 9290 0400. dishes for under $20. While the menu is full ofVirginia Plain is a huge dining room atthe top end of Flinders Lane, directly next The Swan Hotel, an old pub with a rough American and European influences, he labelsdoor to Andrew McConnell’s Cumulus Inc. reputation on Chapel St in Windsor, has long the menu as Australian, focusing on sourcingNamed after the first album released by been known as a place to avoid, but it has local produce. You may find pressed ribband Roxy Music in 1972 and owned by recently been revamped and turned it into and slaw baguettes or beef tongue withMarco Santucci, who for many years owned a place to embrace. The vision of Jannick confit potato, beetroot and horseradish. Theand operated the Carlisle Wine Bar in East St Zester, owner of Melbourne fashion retail meals are supported by a thoughtful beer listKilda, Virginia Plain is a labour of love and a shops Dansk, and his business partner and a value-for-money wine list that will bestatement to Marco’s other skills as sculptor Tom Powell is clear, with The Wolf & I, rotated regularly. 288 Smith St, Collingwood;and designer. The room is made beautiful a name devised by Jannick’s girlfriend phone (03) 8415 0700.by his own design. The walls feature slices during a brainstorming session. The pub isof agate mounted on brackets lit from now a clean but textured and quirky space What was Dante’s on Gertrude St for manybehind, while the striking, bell-shaped lights designed by Jannick, with lots of bare years is now Belle’s Diner. It’s an uber-coolthat hang above the bar were made by brick, white walls and striking artwork by diner with an American bent that has a simpleMelbourne-based glassblower Phil Stokes. artist Jacki Stockdale. One wall in the front menu of southern fried chicken, burgers andThe front area of the room is dressed with clam chowder designed by chef Catrionafloating marble tables designed by Marco bar is dedicated to vintage Singer sewing Freeman, who was at Collingwood’s Graceand a confronting, nonetheless beautiful, machines. Chef Daniel Bloom has created a Darling Hotel and Panama Dining Room.artwork by collaborative artists Robert Doble menu with Scandinavian influences, as well There’s a smart wine list, boutique beersand Simon Strong. as sturdy traditional pub food, which means and, of course, milkshakes. Using beautiful you’ll see frikadeller (Danish meatballs) and smooth timbers throughout, the small The menu, by chef Andy Harmer, is gravad laks (cured salmon) alongside Wolf’s room gives a retro feel to the space, whichcontemporary European and the playful chicken parmigiana or a dish of pork and includes original 1950s Coles cafeteria boothexplanations of dishes hint at the casual fennel sausages. The aim is to keep a good seating and a slick silver-topped bar to sitethos of the restaurant. The menu is built pub feel - TV screens remain in the front bar at and eat. 150-156 Gertrude St, Fitzroy;around dishes that highlight both Andy’s for watching sport - while accommodating phone (03) 9077 0788.skill and humour. Town hall pigeon is a fine the local, urban audience with quality foodexample, with black quinoa and baby beets in a sharp, inviting space. 152 Chapel St, Above: The Wolf & I interior.resembling blood, its cheeky name belying Prahran; phone (03) 9510 1819. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 95

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGAntonio ‘Tony’ Sabia is one of Sydney’s High-quality simplicity such as this newest extension of Justin Hemmes’leading advocates of rustic-style Italian keeps Puntino packed to capacity on dining empire, has one of the bestfood. The charismatic proprietor of Puntino most days of the week. Whether diners wine lists of any upscale Chinese-styleTrattoria has featured prominently in are snacking on organic olives from restaurant in the country. It’s location -major newspapers such as the Sydney South Australia or artisan pastas such the heart of the CBD - has been a strongMorning Herald and the Daily Telegraph as gnocchi sorrentino (potato gnocchi influence on sommelier Franck Moreau’swaxing lyrical about his passion for with napolitana sauce, mozzarella and expertly selected line-up of half bottleshomemade pasta. His mother Francesca basil) or cavatelli con ricotta e salsiccia and crisp, aromatic whites. But he wasexpertly whips up a week’s worth of Italy’s (baby short pasta with ricotta and home- under no pressure, except for personalfinest every Tuesday morning, using only made sausages), it’s a rare plate that isn’t preference, to list 100 rieslings.traditional family recipes. And customers picked clean.come from all over Sydney to sink their The former Tank nightclub has beenteeth into some of the best stone-baked, The same goes for the daily meat and transformed into a double-story ode towood-fired pizzas in the city. fish specials which often hinge on fang- smart design by Michael McCann, the fresh barramundi. But it’s best to be Perched on the edge of the CBD, Puntino more than peckish if you order the 30cm king of smart restaurant refits. Cocktailshas a regional Italian interior that belies the pizzas from La Bomba (a double-crust in Mr Wong’s smart upstairs bar are thefact that the restaurant is a multiple winner pizza pie stuffed with Italian sausage, perfect way to end a working day andat the National Restaurant and Catering mozzarella, egg and sauteed onions) to the dim sum menu has become one ofAwards. Tony hails from Basilicata, the most Zucca (roasted smashed pumpkin puree, the hottest lunch tickets in town. Themountainous region in southern Italy, and goat’s and mozzarella cheeses, herbs reason? The yum cha chef is Eric Koh,is a keen promoter of the ‘real food’ values and reduced balsamic). Great value fresh from London’s red-hot Hakkasan.of the region - a dedicated fervour that has and you can BYO for a small corkageled to the introduction of a mozzarella bar charge. 41 Crown St, Woolloomooloo; The renowned MasterChef duo, Dansimilar to the popular Obika restaurants in phone (02) 9331 8566. Hong and Jowett Hu, run the kitchenLos Angeles and Rome. and the Peking duck is just one of their Chef Kerby Craig had a tattoo of stellar roasted offerings. They also dish We chose to start with the mozzarella the one hat he helped to score for Koi up old favourites such as sweet anddegustazione platter, a taste-filled restaurant in the Sydney Morning Herald sour pork, beef in black bean sauce andextravaganza that annihilated any thoughts Good Food Guide inked onto his neck. sweetcorn soup, but a thousand timesof rubbery, tasteless supermarket cheeses. A prophetic move, as it turned out, better than the Aussie/Chinese travestiesOut came a vast wooden board studded with because he’s also won a hat for his new most of us remember. It’s also hard to gothree types of mozzarella - creamy burrata, restaurant, Ume, in the 2013 SMH guide. past the tank of live crabs destined fornaturally smoked and classic bufala. Merlot- Craig and his Japanese wife, Hiroko such fragrant dishes as Singapore-styleflavoured salt, two types of prosciutto (crudo Muranishi, took over the former Bistrode black pepper crab. Expensive - yes -and cotto alla brace) and mortadella di premises in Surry Hills earlier this year but even the toilets are plush enough toquattro stelle added contrasting flavours and and the magic has lingered even though rate a double-page spread in a glossytextures. Centre-stage was ciambatta e pesti the menu has switched from English magazine. 3 Bridge Lane, Sydney;- zucchini, potatoes, onion and egg flavoured Modern to Japanese. phone (02) 9240 3000.with four types of pesto from standard basilto sun-dried tomato. Kerby trained with Tetsuya and it Above: Dishes from Puntino Trattoria. shows in the exquisite execution of each dish from the seared scallop carpaccio to kamo - pan-roasted duck breast with egg miso and nasturtiums. Meat devotees shouldn’t go past the ami- yaki wagyu - a luscious wedge of David Blackmore wagyu 9+ bathed in a roast sesame emulsion. Top-notch local craft brews and Japanese imported beers and a jewel of a wine list make Ume a magnet for those who want more than a good sushi. 478 Bourke St, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9380 7333. Asian restaurants no longer restrict their beverage selections to a few beers and sweeter white wines. But Mr Wong, the96 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNThe health of tourism in Australia sucks complemented by the Upper Reach 2012 fore lately and the food here in this rammedat the moment with the Aussie dollar as Verdelho, a spicy, rounded, textural specialty earth construction is wholesome andit is. It’s too expensive here for many of the region with great flavour of which honest. Seared scallops with asparagusinternational visitors and the locals are Derek, the winemaker, is rightly proud. A dish and garden pea risotto, tomato confit andtravelling overseas for their holidays. The of chicken livers with bacon and shallots in curry oil (entree $21.50, main $31.50),Swan Valley is enjoying pretty good times, a creamy Dijon mustard sauce ($16) is a sticky sweet and sour pork belly withhowever; it is within 40 minutes of the delight. The livers are rose pink, juicy and papaya, watermelon salad and salt andCBD, a trip there doesn’t require overnight fall-apart tender and marry well with the pepper calamari ($22.50, $32.50) and wildaccommodation and there is plenty to salty bacon pieces and shallots, with the lot rabbit papardelle with tomato, spinach andsee and do in the region. Because of the wading in a glutinous, warming sauce. An mushroom chive cream ($18.50, $28.50) isshortage of land and housing in Perth, Upper Reach 2010 Black Bream Cabernet a selection of dishes to tempt you. Cheninhowever, it is in danger of being consumed Merlot is a soft, easy-drinking luncheon red blanc, with its high acidity, is a grapeby housing estates, and local winemakers and a fine partner to the livers. We finish variety that thrives in the Swan Valley andare ever mindful of this. lunch with a caramelised rice pudding with the sparkling chenin from Sittella is well poached pear ($13). This nostalgic, creamy worth drinking, as is a handsome group of We visit on a cool and sunny day and are dish, which many Australian mums perfected accompanying wines made from grapesreinvigorated by not only the region but by over decades, has the added attraction of sourced from other regions. 100 Barrett St,the dedication and energy of those in it. a brittle, crunchy caramel lid and the pear Herne Hill; phone (08) 9296 2600.Upper Reach winery sits close to the Swan is a great foil for the overall richness of theRiver in a secluded pocket and is a must- dessert; it’s comforting and an ideal way to Do you fancy strapping on a feed bag forsee. Not only is there an endearing range finish lunch. Upper Reach also provides a lunch or dinner? There’s no need for that atof handcrafted estate wines to sample but two-bedroom cottage for a quiet weekend Chesters in the Swan Valley, although theallow time for a leisurely lunch at Broads away or as a mid-week sanctuary. It dates winery/restaurant/cafe is a converted horserestaurant, as we did. The Upper Reach from 1907 and is completely refurbished stable and echoes the past, as it has diningcomplex, owned by Laura and Derek with log fire, spa, deck, barbecue, board compartments where once horse stalls stood.Pearse, has snappy architecture with games and is available at very reasonable There is also a huge open fire in the largehigh-pitch gables, corrugated cladding dining room that seats 120, and anotherand roofing and see-through views to the rates. You’ll be the only guests overlookingsurrounding vineyards and river perimeter a peacefully bucolic 10-hectare vineyard 50 guests can be accommodated alfrescobeyond. The wine tasting area is naturally vista. 77 Memorial Ave, Baskerville; in the attractive garden setting. Chef Stevebright and tastefully (excuse the pun) phone (08) 9296 0078. Ross offers a fine choice of dishes, includingappointed and the restaurant caters for vegetarian and gluten-free options, withall weather conditions with a cosy, well- A winery/restaurant with a vineyard view entrees around $18 and mains about $38.appointed indoor dining area and an is definitely an attraction and lunching on a Excellent Heafod Glen wines are served atoutdoor verandah, where we top up on deck when the weather is kind is a bonus. the table. Chesters is open for lunch fromvitamin D and lunch in glorious sunshine. The environment sharpens the appetite Wednesday to Sunday and for dinner on and the wines will be in optimum condition, Friday and Saturday. 8691 West Swan Rd, A filo parcel of spiced potato and sweet as they are made on-site and haven’t Henley Brook; phone (08) 9296 3444.potato served on an aromatic yellow travelled a hundred metres. Sittella haslentil and spinach ragout ($32) is a little all the ingredients for an enjoyable lunch. Above: Upper Reach winery restaurant, outdoor diningdifferent. It’s fresh, crisp and lifting and is Its award-winning wines have been to the and entrance. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 97

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSGorgeous summer days, time for a splendid the fact that this is basically a glorified tin soaked in Pedro Ximinez black sherry, whilesummer lunch and the question is, given shed perched magnificently on the edge of the daily specials might include a simplethis is Adelaide with its multitude of choices, a cliff overlooking Port Willunga beach. You but delicious plate of parmesan gnocchidoes one head north, south, east into the can’t help but feel that it wouldn’t matter with a richly flavoured Coorong Angus beefAdelaide Hills, or just stay in the city? much what they served; the view would still ragout. These dishes are made all the more make it taste good, but happily the kitchen palatable by The Lane’s extensive range of How can anyone resist a restaurant that in is able to compete with the view. wines all available by the glass. I supposerecent times has won awards for best small one should also mention that, if you’rewine list and best use of regional produce, Head chef Sam Prance-Smith continues pushed for time, helicopter landings areas well as best service? That’s the enviable to source locally caught King George available. Open for lunch daily. Ravenswoodlist of accolades won by Fino, tucked away whiting and baby calamari, which remain Lane, Hahndorf; phone (08) 8388 1250.at Willunga in the heart of the Southern Vales star attractions on the menu, along withand the sort of place everyone wishes they locally caught snapper. But if you’re stuck in the city, don’t despairhad as their local neighbourhood restaurant. because the view is almost as good at There’s an extensive wine list that’s McLaren Jolley’s Boathouse, a haven of blissful Chef David Swain was one of the first in Vale-biased but includes other major wine bucolic charm beside the River Torrens,South Australia to really come to grips with regions and is topped up with older, rarer where the peace is interrupted only by theregional cuisine and show its potential, offerings from Doug’s formidable list at the distant exertions of joggers pounding past.which he continues to do at Fino, housed Victory Hotel at nearby Sellicks Beach. Open Diners are thankfully shielded from thein a modest 1850s cottage appropriately for lunch Wednesday to Sunday, dinner exertions, but not the view, by floor-to-ceilinglocated next to the popular weekend Friday and Saturday. 1 The Esplanade, Port windows on three sides of the restaurant.Willunga Farmers’ Market. Willunga; phone (08) 8557 7420. Jolley's interior has been considerably Like the wine list, his menu is small but Back in the Adelaide Hills, one of the best freshened, and is now more like a smart diningbrilliant with just five smaller dishes and lunches to be had is at The Lane vineyard room than a casual conservatory, but chef andthree larger dishes. Whole beasts are hung and winery. If the view was the only good co-owner Tony Carroll’s menu requires noand butchered in house (don’t miss his thing about this place, it would probably such renovation and remains one of the besthouse-made chorizo sausage with pickled be enough. This is one of the best winery and most consistent in town. Lunchtime dinersgreen tomatoes). Wild Coorong rabbit is a restaurant locations in the Hills, overlooking might start with a plate of freshly-shuckedregular visitor, perhaps with confit front legs, a landscape of neatly tended cabernet angasi oysters from Coffin Bay before movinga sausage from the back legs, pan-seared sauvignon vineyards, rolling hills, gum on to entrees such as caramelised pork bellyloin and Italian rice cooked in rabbit stock, trees, dams and grazing cows. with spanner crab, watercress and coconutwhile another Swain specialty is steamed salad. No one has had the heart to let theand flaked salted mulloway with celeriac and But there’s more to this sleek combined river-dwelling ducks know that one of the besthouse-made mayonnaise with dill and chervil. restaurant-cellar door than that, with dishes on the menu is the tea-smoked duck the building’s contemporary styling well with stir-fried Chinese spinach, which never David’s menu is cryptic to say the least. matched by chef James Brinklow’s ever- leaves the menu, though the Moroccan-styleWild rabbit and rice, or roast chook, leek changing menu. Entrees might include slow braised baby lamb shoulder (for two) isand farro don’t tell much of a story, but dishes like seared scallops with corn puree a close contender. Open for lunch Sunday tothat’s where his co-owner and front-of house and crisp bacon or marinated quail with Friday, dinner Monday to Saturday. Jolley'sdynamo Sharon Romeo comes in, along pickled vine leaf and grilled haloumi. Lane, Adelaide; phone (08) 8223 2891.with her small (one page) but elegantlycrafted wine list. Elements in many dishes Popular main courses include crisp- Above: The Lane dining overlooking the vineyards.come from her own family’s tradition and skinned pork belly with Jerusalem artichokekitchen, so she’s just the person to provide puree, crumbed black pudding and prunesthe detail. Open for lunch Tuesday toSunday, dinner Friday and Saturday. 8 HillSt, Willunga; phone (08) 8556 4488. Another southern alternative is Starof Greece, this time at Port Willunga,where co-owners Doug Govan andNicki Seymour Smith have successfullyrelaunched a restaurant that was startingto look as washed-up as the bones of thewrecked ship that gave the restaurant itsname on the beach below. Major renovations, which include new andexpanded deck areas, haven’t disguised98 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

Ralph Fowler Wines is committed to producing limited Please feel free to contact Ralph Fowler winesquantities of hand crafted premium quality wines. via any of the following methods:The vineyard is planted with selected clones of Shiraz, Viognier Phone: +61 8 8768 5000and Merlot and the latest viticultural technologies have been Fax: +61 8 8768 5008incorporated into the vineyard plantings. Email: [email protected] Lyre trellis system will give fruit of the best possible quality www.ralphfowlerwines.com.auand allow the production of fruit driven wines with strong Location:varietal expression and superior mouthfeel. PRD irrigation 101 Limestone Coast Roadpractices ensures quality grapes are produced as well as taking a Mount Bensonmajor step toward environmentally sustainable agriculture. South Australia Postal Address: PO Box 423 Kingston SE South Australia 5275 AUSTRALIAwww.ralphfowlerwines.com.au

winewords S C O T T W A S L E Y SKYE MURTAGH So, after immersing himself in the task as ‘food wines’, a tedious and almost of researching the Spanish offering, he certainly tendentious distinction from launched his new venture. Today The ‘drinking wines’. Spanish Acquisition’s carefully selected portfolio represents around 40 of Spain’s What’s been the biggest challenge you’ve and Portugal’s leading producers - and had to overcome in your business? comprises, almost exclusively, native An utter lack of working capital to Iberian varietals. commence with.© James Broadway. What sparked your initial interest in wine? Describe your ultimate Spanish feast The idea that wines could be individuals with and the wines to match! As the founder of The Spanish Acquisition distinct stories first tweaked my curiosity; Ribera del Duero lamb at a great Asador - a specialist importer and wholesale potential intoxication a decided bonus. in Roa, washed down liberally with a distributor of Spanish and Portuguese succession of Tinto Finos. wines, spirits and beers - Scott Wasley has Describe the subsequent journey to trips to the birthplace of his increasingly your current position at the helm of The Name the most memorable bottle popular wares as a necessary part of his Spanish Acquisition? of wine you’ve ever consumed and job spec. However, it’s a perk acutely As a 20-year-old with no idea of where describe the circumstances in which it balanced by hard work at the coalface I wanted to go, but facing the ongoing was discovered and enjoyed! in Australia, and with the business about need to fund my next burger, I worked in Well, I’m 1961-born, and if you agree to mark its 12th year, there’s no doubt a really busy drive-through bottle shop, that the greatest wines of all come from talent, expertise and sheer determination graduated to running a retail store when Bordeaux, ’61 is a handy place to come have been the cornerstones of Scott’s I had learned something about wine, then from. I recently had a birth-year claret, success and longevity. It began back into restaurants while at uni. I ended up Leoville Las-Cases, overlooking the in 2001 when modern Spanish wine was managing restaurants and doubling as Pacific in the early evening high up in emerging as a feature on the international a wine guy, then went indie as a wine the dining room of a wonderful Big Sur landscape. At the time, Scott was looking consultant, writer and educator. Tried to restaurant, The Post Ranch Inn. For the for a new avenue through which he could bolt a tiny importing business onto the back first time in my life, I kept the bottle, like channel his passion for wine and felt there end of the wine guy thing, but it was too a true nerd! was a definite opportunity to nurture and much; killed the indie wine dude off and service demand for Spanish wines in the went Iberian all the way. Where’s the most unusual place you’ve Australian marketplace. Having worked ever consumed wine - what was the as a retail wine store and restaurant What was the attraction in specialising in drop and describe the situation? manager, freelance wine writer, educator Spanish and Portuguese wines? Drinking Capcanes’s deluxe Garnacha and consultant, he certainly had the right No-one had taken any notice of Iberia. Cabrida straight from the bottle neck kind of experience in his back pocket. Australia had a couple of stale sherries high up in the mountains at one of and tired Riojas and that’s about it. the Cabrida vineyards. Our host had Given Spain was one of the three biggest brought the picnic but forgot the producers of wine in the world and glassware. Delicious! modernising was clearly spreading through Europe, I figured there was more What’s your favourite wine accessory to the story and went in deep to research and why? and find out what was really going on in My wife; highly portable, always thirsty and Spain. Lots, and much of it about to be matches wonderfully with all proteins. great, as it turned out. What’s the one rule you always follow What’s the most common misconception when it comes to selecting wines for consumers have about wines from your own consumption? these countries? Avoid artificially acidified wines whenever That they can be meaningfully described possible. If you can’t, have a Manhattan. 100 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012