Winestate Magazine Annual 2016

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 11,000 tasted annuallyANNUAL 2016 WINESTATE VOL 39 ISSUE 1 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEWINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2015 IN REVIEW ANNUAL Edition 2016PRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 The rise ROADS LESS & rise of riesling TRAVELLED Annual 2016 Discovering gems in Vol 39 Issue 1 unexpected places $14 AUS (inc GST) NZ $15 SGD $19 Vintage Report US $17.99 GBP £11.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB120 2015 - A season HKD $150 CHF 20.00 ZAR 250 of anticipation The pick of the crop from over 11,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2015

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Come on a culinary journey like no other. A city overflowing with bars, cafes and restaurants. From five-star to food trucks; it’s all just minutes from nearby farms, orchards and of course, vines. Yes there are the names you know, but there are many new ones to discover. Award winners and rule breakers. Dotted throughout the lush, green hills or scattered along the long, rambling coast you will find your fill. ADELAIDEsouthaustralia.com

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NO.274 ANNUAL 2016Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Lisa McPike E: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E: [email protected] DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins, Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALES A century of fine winemaking deserves more than oneAustralia & International story. To celebrate our centenary, we’re sharing 100Peter Jackson, Winestate Publications stories which have shaped our family’s 100 years ofPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] innovation, achievement and winemaking excellence.Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] South Wales Discover our stories atPearman Media babichwines.co.nz/100storiesPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected]: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2016 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes noresponsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contents FEATURES THE YEAR IN THEANNUAL 2016 2015 VINTAGE REPORT REAR-VIEW MIRRORREGULARS 26 Heartland basks in a season of 120 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: anticipation 12 Briefs The 2015 vintage was marked by ‘Awesome’ outlook 18 European Report with Sally Easton “extremes”, writes Charles Gent. While Predictions of awesome (Adelaide Hills); a 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley the fertile crescent - Canberra, the Yarra classic year for Coonawarra cabernet and 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Valley, Rutherglen, the Adelaide Hills and shiraz; wines with firm tannin structures 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel much of Tasmania celebrated, Western will allow for ageing (McLaren Vale); some 60 Grapevine Australia, the Hunter and Queensland had really fantastic whites (Barossa); conditions 66 Wine Investment & Collecting to battle difficult conditions. The nation’s produced elegant wines with good length 72 What’s it Worth? grape growers sent 1.67 million tonnes to (Clare) to one of the shortest vintages on 41 Subscription Form be crushed, with chardonnay maintaining record (Riverland), summed up the state’s194 Aftertaste its number-one white status, while shiraz 2015 vintage, reports Karyn Foster. accounted for almost half the red grapesPLUS-THE BEST processed. 134 VICTORIA:OF THE BEST 28 Building a dynasty Delivering on a promiseWe revisit the most outstanding wines - rated From humble beginnings 100 years ago on Heat, low yields and bushfires couldn’tfour stars and above - that we tasted in 2015. the gumfields of New Zealand’s Far North dampen the enthusiasm and promise of the to the top tier of world wineries, the Babich 2015 vintage, reports Jeni Port, and for the 75 Best of Styles family continues its mission of producing most part things worked out well. In the105 Best of New Releases fine wines, reports Michael Cooper. Yarra Valley pinot noir, chardonnay and shiraz114 The 2015 Best of Best Buys were described as “outstanding”, while123 Best of South Australia 30 Roads less travelled along the Mornington Peninsula chardonnay136 Best of Victoria Heading off the beaten track to explore and pinot noir were the stars, and there142 Best of New South Wales some of the nation’s less visited wine was barely a grumble within the ranks of150 Best of Western Australia regions is a great way to expand your southern and central Victorian winemakers.154 Best of Queensland appreciation of wine styles, writes Winsor159 Best of Tasmania Dobbin. 140 NEW SOUTH WALES:164 Best of New Zealand175 Michael Cooper’s Best of 2015 Releases 34 Regal riesling extends its reign Change of fortune Riesling’s Australian modern day revival The star of the previous two vintages, theWinestate Magazine began in 2000 when Canberra winemaker Hunter Valley, had to take a back seat toIssue Number 274 Ken Helm AM took a chance and launched Orange, Canberra and Mudgee this vintage,Annual 2016 the Canberra Riesling Challenge to promote writes Rick Allen. Orange and Canberra rieslings from across the nation, writes growers suggest 2015 will “sit up alongsideCover photograph Dan Traucki. Since that time the name their finest”, while in the Hunter it was justKadriya Gatina has changed to the Canberra International a “solid vintage all round”. And in Mudgee Riesling Challenge and at the 2015 event riesling was the big winner. more than 500 entries from seven of the world top eight riesling producer countries 148 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: were in the running for the top awards. Celebrating the founding four’s 38 Phoenix-like revival gaining traction Austria’s wine industry enjoyed a achievements spectacular run in the 1980s as one of the There’s a sense of optimism in the major world’s leading wine exporters, writes Dan regions for the 2015 vintage, reports Mike Traucki. Then came the ethylene glycol Zekulich, but one of the main focuses of the scandal and the industry crashed. It took the year was the 50th anniversary of the Great Austrians 25 years to rebuild their reputation Southern industry. The first experimental and industry, and today their native varietals plantings in the district of riesling and and many of the classical varieties are again cabernet in 1964 paved the way for a still- back in the spotlight for all the right reasons. growing regional industry. AWARDS 2015 162 NEW ZEALAND: Getting the balance right With the national harvest down 27 per cent, the supply-and-demand equation is now roughly in balance, says Michael Cooper. Along with booming international sales, there’s plenty of optimism within the industry. Sauvignon blanc continues to be the star performer, accounting for almost 70 per cent of the entire harvest and 85 per cent of exports. 42 SPECIAL WOYA FEATURE The stars of 2015 - the wines and the personalities behind our top drops -have been unveiled and it’s time to celebrate their achievements. You can view all the action in our special pictorial display of the winners of Winestate’s annual Wine of the Year Awards.8 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

- Canberra -The Cannesfor Riesling! e Canberra International Riesling Challenge into our 17th year this show has grown from You can look at Rieslings en masse, tastehas put Canberra rmly on the map as the modest beginnings to its deserved recognition them at the Riedel Consumer Tasting and becentre from which the Riesling grape is as the most de nitive evaluation of Riesling in educated at our seminars and masterclasses!promoted to the world. Emulating the a nity the Southern Hemisphere.between lm and Cannes, so too are Canberra e Challenge is continuing to grow throughand Riesling rapidly becoming synonymous. e 2016 Canberra International Riesling fantastic support from our sponsors, inOf the 70 currently recognized wine Challenge will be held from 9-15 October particular the Foundation Sponsors, thecompetitions in Australia, the Challenge is the 2016. Come and join us at the premier annual generosity of our high calibre judges ofonly one that focuses solely on the undisputed international Riesling event where wines from international reputation and the patronage ofQueen of white wines - Riesling. As we go the world are gathered, assessed, awarded and Riesling lovers. promoted to the world’s consumers. OUR SPONSORS

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editorialAMAZING WHAT A DIFFERENCE A YEAR MAKES! This past Our thanks this year on behalf of myself and New Zealand Editor,12 months or so has seen the Australian dollar drop dramatically against the Michael Cooper, goes out to theUS dollar, making it potentially good news for exporters (and taking away many wine judges who were on theany excuses they might have for a lack of sales). Similarly, New Zealand has Winestate panels and gave freely ofseen a similar drop against the US dollar, but has maintained parity against their time, the wineries who put theirthe Australian dollar. treasured wines up for evaluation,In a year that has proved difficult for both small and large producers alike, our valued sponsors and most of allthese shoots of optimism in gaining overseas markets could be crucial in taking you the reader, who keep us on ourpressure off the over supplied local market, allowing some much needed toes and make sure we deliver themargins for the beleaguered winemakers. credibility for you to select the bestWhile this has been great for consumers with some great buys out there, one wines for your palate. Best wisheshas to be concerned when iconic wineries such as Peter Lehmann Wines for a great 2016.and Grant Burge Wines are snapped up by competitors such as Casella andAccolade respectively. Treasury Wines meanwhile also announced the closing Cheersof its Great Western winery, Rosemount McLaren Vale winery and MatuaMarlborough winery. We will wait and see how this all pans out. If quality of Peter Simicproduct is maintained all to the good; if not we will let you know! Editor/PublisherIn a year when high scores from wine critics was the norm and every wineryseemed to be awarded a five-star winery classification, Winestate continues WILLIAM ANGLISS WINEto hold the line as one of the toughest critics around. In such tough times we AWARD WINNERdo this to preserve the integrity of the industry and to act as a benchmarkfor wineries to collectively improve their wines through honest and unbiased VICTORIA’S leading wine & food teachingfeedback and ratings. By its nature the three panel wine show blind judging college, William Angliss, announced that Anasystem, which we also use, means that it is much tougher to get agreement to Maria Escobar has won the college’s Winestateget high scores for wines, but much easier to have wines eliminated. Consider prime award for Wine Studies. Colombian bornthat you need to get high scores from at least two judges to deliver a high and raised, with a bachelor in Culinary Arts,rating. We do differ slightly from other wine shows in that if two judges give a she came to Australia in 2012 wanting to learngold (our five star) and one judge knocks the wine out it still gets a five-star all things Hospitality. She wanted to “to turnrating rather than averaging down. We figure that if two judges like it then my vision from the kitchen to the dinner (andyou might also. Conversely, if two judges knock a wine out but one gives it a bar),” and consequently studied an Advancedgold we don’t average it up and give an award. It is out! Here we figure that Diploma of Hospitality Management. “I loveif we don’t award it you won’t either. If the judges are split (one high, one low, wine, food, and basically all things thatone in the middle) then the middle scorer gets the option to raise the wine’s come together to bring the pleasure of a great meal,” she said. Currentlyscore by half a point (if their comments are very positive) or leave it where it she works as the Bar Supervisor for TGI Fridays Southbank. Winestateis. Occasionally this might lift a wine from three stars to three and a half stars, conducts its Victorian tastings at William Angliss with valuable supportfor example. By now you have probably realised that wine judging is an art not from Hospitality students.a science (which is why we don’t like the 100-point system, which assumesan accuracy that simply does not exist).In our Annual issue we are pleased to bring you our best Australian andNew Zealand wines, as judged by our many peer winemaker panels; thosethat achieved four stars or higher from around 10,000 wines that we judgedthroughout the year. Over the year, in specially designated tastings, weevaluated New Releases, Regional wines and what we call Style tastings-usually varietal (e.g. chardonnay) designations, but also generic, whereSweet Whites, Sparklings and Fortifieds are involved). There is also a BestValue Wines rated section for under $20 wines in this issue – great to haveas “house wines”. Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsOLSEN TAKES OVER changed the public perception of the company and made people believe we produce quality wines,” he says.LEADING Hunter Valley winery Pepper Tree has announced that Gwyn Olsenhas been appointed as new head winemaker for the brand, taking over from Now De Bortoli Wines is celebrating the 30th vintage of its landmark dessertScott Comyns, who was made redundant after declining an alternative position wine and has released a special anniversary gift box for the 2013 vintage winewithin the company, which also includes the Briar Ridge and Tallavera Grove to mark the milestone. The first Noble One Botrytis Semillon vintage was madelabels. Olsen comes from the position as winemaker and general manager of in 1982 (it was then called sauternes) and since then the wine has gone to earnBriar Ridge, where she had won several awards. Pepper Tree chairman John global acclaim, still often being compared with the great sweet white wines ofDavis said Olsen was one of the country’s most exciting young winemakers. Bordeaux. To date it has been awarded 136 trophies and 423 gold medals and“Gwyn brings not only her much awarded wine making skills, but also great today Noble One is the most commercially successful dessert wine made frombusiness acumen at a time when our company is making important growth botrytis-infected grapes in Australia. “As one of the most recognised dessertplans in both local and international markets. We look forward to the future with wines in the world, Noble One has really cemented its place as the De Bortoligreat anticipation.” Olsen’s new role encompasses overseeing the winemaking family’s flagship wine, both at home and internationally,” says winemaker Juliefor Briar Ridge and Tallavera Grove. Comyns, meanwhile, announced that he Mortlock. “As Noble One’s winemaker, I’m just a custodian, I look after it, andhas started his own wine company, Comyns & Co Wines. “I have spent the I find it quite a privilege to be given the role.”last two weeks sourcing and securing some great parcels of Hunter Valleyfruit from some great sites and great growers,” he said. Since 1982 Noble One has only missed two vintages, in 1989 and 2012, both as a result of too much rain. It remains the only dessert wine to be listed onJUST A STROLL AWAY Langton’s Classification of Wine, classified as “Outstanding”. Such is its fame, that former Australian Prime Minister Kevin Rudd presented a case of it to thenSEPPELTSFIELD Vineyard Cottage, one of the most luxurious places to stay Pope Benedict during his visit to the Vatican in 2009. The 2013 anniversaryin the Barossa Valley, has opened a vineyard walk that takes guests from Noble One Botrytis Semillon is now available nationally and comes in twoits property to neighbouring Hentley Farm, home to one of the best cellar sizes, 375ml, with a $33 RRP and 750ml, with a $64 RRP.door restaurants in the region. A new gate and trail mean the two propertiesare just a five-minute walk apart and guests can also stroll up through the EMBRACING THE SPIRITvineyard behind the cottage to new Barossa dining icon Fino at Seppeltsfield(a 10-minute walk away). www.seppeltsfieldvineyardcottage.com.au. WITH the Australian spirits category enjoying boom times (think artisanMARKING A NOBLE ANNIVERSARY whiskies, vodkas and gins), the Angove family decided to lift theWHILE the De Bortoli family initially built its reputation on bulk wines that sold profile - and quality - of its venerable Stat bargain basement prices, there has been a rapid shift towards producing Agnes brandy. The Renmark distillery,high-quality wines in recent years, both from the company’s Riverina heartland producer of the original Australianand its cooler Yarra Valley outpost. Darren de Bortoli, who now heads the brandy since 1925, has launchedcompany, created Australia’s iconic dessert wine, Noble One, when he was into the luxury market with new XOstill in his early 20s - and changed the family’s direction forever. “Noble One additions to its portfolio. The brand’s first foray into the world of luxury brandy (generally dominated by cognac producers) has seen the launch of two ultra-premium XO brandies – the XO Imperial 20 Year Old and XO Grand Reserve 40 Year Old. The new XO brandies join the popular XO 15 Year Old ($99 a bottle), which has already won global recognition. Richard Angove says the family company is aiming to re-position Australian brandy both domestically and internationally. “My family has been crafting brandy for over 90 years and we’re excited to now be moving into a new territory of rare, luxury and unique goods,” he says. “We have a clear purpose and that is to do one thing brilliantly, to show the world another face of Australian produce excellence by crafting an iconic Australian spirit of world-class standard. “The team at St Agnes Distillery is exceptionally proud of these new releases. They represent a uniquely Australian take on the timeless luxury and prestige of XO, and we can’t wait to show them off.” Prices rival those of premium cognac (and the presentation is superb) with the St Agnes XO Imperial 20 Year Old having an RRP $200 while St Agnes XO Grand Reserve 40 Year Old has an RRP of $785 and is made in minute quantities. St Agnes is distributed by Vintage House Wine and Spirits.12 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

briefsTARGETING TASMANIA gourmet restaurant, La Table du Burdigala, is open daily for lunch and dinner, but dozens of other options are within walking distance, while Bacchus barONE OF Australia’s most talented winemakers is aiming to make a permanent is open from 10am to midnight and also offers light snacks. Prices start frommove to Tasmania before the start of the 2016 vintage. Samantha Connew, around $360, although there are special offers, including a three-nights-for-the-former chief winemaker at Wirra Wirra in McLaren Vale and Tower Estate in price-of-two deal available online. Hotel Burdigala, 115 rue Georges-Bonnac,the Hunter Valley, has her heart set on expanding her Stargazer wine label, 33000 Bordeaux; phone +33 05 66 90 16 16. www.burdigala.com.for which she currently buys fruit from both the Tamar Valley and southernregions. New Zealand-born Connew, who is also the chairman of judges at the A complete contrast is the funky and fun Mama Shelter, where rooms startRoyal Sydney Wine Show, launched Stargazer two years ago and has already from $105, depending on the season. Don’t expect huge rooms and 24-hourbuilt a major following in Sydney and Melbourne. “I’m looking to move down room service, but do expect the unexpected as the decor, as with all Mamato Tassie before vintage next year (fingers crossed) and am scouting around Shelter properties, is done by renowned French designer Philippe Starck.for vineyard land – serious stuff,” Connew said. In the centre of Bordeaux’s pedestrian zone, and just a few steps from the Gambetta tram stop, this hip hotel is within walking distance of most of Hunter Valley-based Connew, who is also a qualified lawyer, has long had Bordeaux’s attractions. The modern rooms feature desks, minibars and freea fascination with Tasmania and now has the chance to move full-time after wifi, as well as complimentary iMacs offering TV, radio, Skype and free moviesending a stint with the Australian Wine Research Institute. “The first case of on demand. There’s a lively restaurant with good buffet breakfasts, a pizzeriawine that I ever bought was from Tasmania; a dozen bottles of Tamar Ridge and a seasonal rooftop bar with city views. There are free computers in theRiesling,” Connew recalls. “And my first vintage was in Oregon, where I, like lobby and a huge game of table football for use by guests (one of the teamsso many other winemakers, became captivated by pinot noir. So it seems only is painted in the colours of the local Girondins de Bordeaux team). Mamafitting that after an intervening period of over 15 years I end up in Tasmania Shelter Bordeaux, 19 Rue Poquelin Moliere, 33000 Bordeaux; phone +33 5making pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay.” 5730 4545. www.mamashelter.com/en/Bordeaux.BEST OF BORDEAUXTHE ACCOR hotel chain has something for everyone when it comes to visitingthe world wine capital of Bordeaux. The choices range from the exclusiveHotel Burdigala, a member of Accor’s exclusive M Gallery grouping, to thefun and funky budget option of Mama Shelter, along with several Novotel andIbis properties. The Burdigala (Bordeaux was known as Burdigala in Roman times) is a stylishand under-stated boutique hotel in a quiet quarter of Bordeaux but just a strollto Place Gambetta. It is a five-star hotel with someone to help you with yourbags (and take them to your room), room service from 7.30am until midnight,comfortable beds and bathrooms with quality toiletries. It also offers free wifi. Awine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 13 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E

briefsGROUP ADVENTURE Tahbilk Estate is one of Australia’s most beautiful and historic properties located in the Nagambie Lakes Region of central Victoria some 100km north ofLOOKING for somewhere for a group of wine lovers to share in South Africa? Melbourne. The property covers 1214ha of the richest river flats in the region.The Homestead in Stellenbosch ticks a lot of boxes. The Homestead is an The first 26ha of vineyard plantings occurred in 1860 and the surviving shirazhistoric Cape Dutch farmhouse that has recently been converted into an ultra- wines are some of the oldest in the world. The Purbicks are straight shooters.luxe vineyard villa in South Africa’s leading wine region. When asked why recent releases are under screw cap, Alister said: “Because I hate cork; hate it with a passion for what it can do to wine.” The Tahbilk range Located on the grounds of the boutique winery Oldenburg Vineyards in the covers everything from landmark wines like the 1860 Vines Shiraz, Eric Stevensscenic Banghoek Valley between Stellenbosch and Franschoek, groups have Purbrick Shiraz and 1927 Vines Marsanne to regional heroes, including Tahbilkexclusive use of the homestead. Surrounded by a spectacular mountain and Marsanne, Tahbilk Viognier, Tahbilk Shiraz and Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon.vineyard landscape, The Homestead has ample space for up to 12 guests,featuring six stunning en-suite bedrooms as well as various stylish indoor and ONE FOR THE GENTLEMENoutdoor dining and lounge spaces. The fully equipped kitchen means guestscan be as independent as they like and either cook for themselves or request LINDEMAN’S has unveiled a new range of winesa private chef, as well as butler and chauffeur. Guests can also choose from aimed firmly at a demographic it calls “the millennialthe owner’s personal wine collection in the house or take a stroll next door male”. Called the Gentleman’s Collection by Dr Henryto the Oldenburg cellars. For information see www.oldenburgvineyards.com/ John Lindeman, the range consists of four winesaccommodation/the-homestead or phone +27 21 885 1618. Rates start from that Lindeman’s says are “suitable for the discerningaround $1400 per night and include exclusive use of the homestead and its modern gentleman – each made with a dash offacilities, continental breakfast, free wifi, daily housekeeping and concierge fortified for rounded refinement”. The Gentleman’sservice, and a wine tasting at the Oldenburg cellar door. Collection was inspired by Dr Lindeman, who founded Lindeman’s in 1843. Wayne Falkenberg, Lindeman’sIN THE TAHBILK TRADITION chief winemaker, said: “The addition of a touch of fortified wine is not that common these days in theTHE PURBRICK family, owner of Tahbilk, tend to do things in style. Established winemaking world. We have an internal winemakingin 1860 and Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery, Tahbilk has picked up a innovation program called the ‘Max Medal’, which isstack of awards in its 155th year. So when it decided to mark the 150th birthday named after the experimental and innovative approachof its 1860s Vines Shiraz it held a tasting and lunch at iconic Melbourne of the former Penfolds winemaker Max Schubert. “Therestaurant Vue de Monde. With back vintages showing both how well the Gentleman’s Collection wines are inspired by a Maxelegant style ages, and how the 2010 may be one of the greatest vintages Medal submission one year, that consisted of winesof the $275-a-bottle red, current winemaker Alister Purbrick is following on with a touch of fortified that were quite impressive.”a tradition that began when his great-great grandfather Reginald Purbrick The new range has a recommended retail price of $22.purchased the Tahbilk property in 1925.14 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

briefsTHE ‘PERFECT’ GLASS STAR TREATMENTTHE 2015 Australian Fortified Wine Show used a new glass to taste the fortified MOUNT Lofty Ranges Vineyard owners Sharon Pearson and Garry Sweeneymuscat and topaque wines, which are synonymous with the Rutherglen region. describe “a perfect alignment of the stars” as the reason for the new S&G range of wines. Described by the couple as “the pinnacle of our winemaking Working with the Riedel glasswear company, the Rutherglen muscat careers thus far,” the limited edition S&G range comprises a chardonnayproducers say they have finally determined the perfect glass for this unique and a pinot noir from high slopes of the Lenswood-based property, alongwine style. The new shape was selected after a rigorous two-year process, with a locally-sourced shiraz. The release follows the recent appointment ofwhich brought together winemakers, trade, media and consumers in a series Matt Fitton as its head chef at Mount Lofty Vineyard. “When we purchasedof tastings in Australia and the UK. Both Classic and Rare Rutherglen Muscat the vineyard in 2009, we knew it was a very special block of land, where wewines were sampled in a selection of Riedel glassware to determine which could apply our sustainable and minimal intervention philosophy to createglass best showcased these iconic wines. some magnificent premium cool-climate wines in an idyllic setting,” Garry said. “We also instinctively felt the predominately sandy, clay loam with a rock The Riedel glass chosen for Rutherglen Muscat is from the Ouverture range. base of quartz, sandstone and ironstone might one day produce somethingChris Pfeiffer, chairman and chief judge of the Rutherglen Wine Show said: truly exceptional – and S&G stands as testament to that.“This is a first for the Australian wine show system. No other show uses a stylespecific glass for fortified wine in recognition of their inherent difference to table “It’s undoubtedly the most refined and elegant range of wines we’vewine. It seemed appropriate that the new glass debut at the largest fortified produced. We weren’t quite ready in 2010, the crop wasn’t good enough inwine show in the country. The new glass is now available for consumers to 2011, and both 2012 and 2013 were low yielding years,” Sharon said. “Thenbuy at participating Rutherglen cellar doors.” in 2014, the stars aligned and S&G was born.” Just 50 dozen individually numbered bottles of each of the chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz have been produced and are exclusively available, all at $85 per bottle, from Mount Lofty Ranges Vineyard’s cellar door.AIMING TO CONVERT GEN Y DRINKERS TEMPTING TOURISTSAUSTRALIAN Vintage, the company behind the McGuigan and Tempus Two THERE are huge plans in train to make Riversdale Estate, in the Coal Riverbrands, has launched a new wine label aimed at Generation Y drinkers – Valley, one of Tasmania’s leading wine destinations. Located in the shadow ofmarked by a very different labelling concept. Cameron Ferguson, general the famous UTAS radio telescope, Riversdale Estate has until now been bestmanager of Australian Vintage’s Australian business arm, says the company known for its luxury accommodation in several vineyard cabins.spent 15 months developing its new brand called You Wines, aiming to attractthe digital-savvy younger drinker aged between 18 to 34. This age group The vines produce pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon blanc, pinotcurrently is strongly represented in cider, spirits and beer sales. “Attracting gris, pinot meunier and shiraz, and much of the fruit has in the past beennew, younger consumers to the wine category is essential,” Ferguson said, sold to labels including Treasury Wine Estate’s Heemskerk. From December,announcing a deal with Dan Murphys. Riversdale Estate began welcoming visitors to a new vineyard cellar door tasting room and French Bistro restaurant. The newly completed developments, The wines, which retail for $12.99 feature bright colour-coded labels with which have spectacular views of the estate’s 37ha vineyard and adjacentthe word YOU in large letters along with descriptions of character traits the wetlands, will be complemented by a Peter Rabbit-themed children’s garden,company says are related to the Gen Y category. scheduled for a January opening. Visitors to the property will be able to sample and purchase wines in the cellar door tasting room, while those able to linger longer will be able to enjoy French- inspired cuisine while dining in the estate’s elegant eatery. Owners Wendy and Ian Roberts say their project will boost tourism in southern Tasmania. The new facility will be open seven days a week, 9am-5pm, and will only close on Christmas Day and key public holidays. Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs‘LEGENDARY’ SERVICE TRADE FAVOURITEBILL HARDY, Hardys Global Brand Ambassador and a fifth-generation Hardy MELBOURNE’S Langham Hotel is a huge favourite with members of the winewinemaking family member, has been named the 2015 South Australian trade. The entrance and lobby here are grand. There is a pink London taxiLegend of the Vine by Wine Communicators Australia (WCA). The award was in the driveway and the views of the Yarra River and Melbourne skyline aredesigned to recognise an individual who made an outstanding and lasting spectacular.contribution to the Australian wine industry. Previous recipients of the awardinclude James Halliday, Rob Hirst, Patrick Iland, David Lowe, Phil Laffer, And you can’t beat the setting. The Langham is on the Southbank, next toChris Anstee and Lyndey Milan. “In his 43 years with Hardys, Bill has been Melbourne’s arts and leisure district. There are dozens of restaurants andunwavering in his commitment to sharing and engaging consumers around cafes within strolling distance, along with the casino. The hotel was awardedthe world with his family’s 163-year-old story,” said WCA chair Angus Barnes. four accolades at the 2015 Tourism Accommodation Australia Awards for“Today he travels the world – from the Caribbean to Lords’ Cricket Ground Excellence, including for its Melba restaurant and the Aria Bar & Lounge,– combining his passion for science, environment, history and the simple which is known for its afternoon teas.pleasure of enjoying good wine. He is a great ambassador for Hardys andfor the entire Australian industry.” Hardy says that being a recipient of the The 25-floor hotel has 388 rooms, including 126 river view rooms, 57 executiveaward marks a high point in his career. “It has been a privilege to be part of clubrooms, six balcony rooms with private balconies, seven terrace roomsthe phalanx of Australian winemakers who have circled the globe, telling the with giant private balconies, 11 suites and one presidential suite. There is anstories of Australian wine and making it come to life for far-flung consumers,” award-winning spa, swimming pool, business centre, fitness studio and allhe said. “I may have had the good fortune to be born with wine in my blood the other luxuries you’d expect of a hotel of the Langham’s standing. Try tobut my passion for the product, for growing the grapes, for making the wine book into a room with access to the Langham Club Lounge on the 24th floor.and, particularly, for stimulating these passions in others, has been a deeply It serves a deluxe continental breakfast, all-day tea, coffee and pastries aspersonal and satisfying life’s journey.” well as traditional afternoon tea and pre-dinner drinks with hors d’oeuvres. The Langham, Melbourne, 1 Southgate Ave, Southbank; phone (03) 8696 8888. www.langhamhotels.com/en/the-langham/melbourne/. FIRST RELEASEWINES TAKE STAR BILLING DOWN the far end of White Kangaroo Rd all you can hear is the frogs and the occasional bird. The rivulet is too far below to be heard and the residentMOST restaurants tailor the wine list around the food. At the newly opened platypuses are usually hiding away. Vineyard settings do not come any moreLevantine Hill cellar door and restaurant in the Yarra Valley, wine is the star. picturesque than at Wobbly Boot Vineyard outside Campania, in the far-flung“The wines are the heroes,” says winemaker Paul Bridgeman. reaches of Tasmania’s Coal River Valley. Purchased over a year ago by the Williams family, Wobbly Boot recently celebrated its resurrection and the Well-known Melbourne chef Teague Ezard runs the Ezard@Levantine Hill first wine to be released under the new ownership - a crisp and clean 2015restaurant and has specifically matched his food to the wines. sauvignon blanc. New owners Paul and Lynda Williams, and their son Isaac, have disparate backgrounds but share a love of food and wine. Paul, a former “I had to let go of ingredients like ginger, chillies and garlic,” he says. “They’ve teacher and social worker, is doing much of the vineyard work himself usingbeen parked. Concentrating on wine-friendly dishes requires a different food sustainable practices where possible and with support from his neighboursprofile. I like to have the engine still running though. Hopefully, we will be able at Frogmore Creek’s Roslyn Vineyard. The fruit is vinified at Frogmore Creekto bring those ingredients back in at sometime.” by Alain Rousseau. Wobbly Boot - named because of the irregular shape of the property - is home to just 1ha of sauvignon blanc and pinot noir (the For the menu, Ezard might combine squid ink cracker, horseradish and sea 2015 pinot is scheduled to be released early in 2016). A second vineyard willurchin with a sparkling blanc be blancs or pork jowl, artichoke and roasted soon be planted with the same two varieties and some riesling. Other thanchestnuts with pinot noir. during occasional event weekends, visits are by appointment only. See www. wobblybootvineyard.com.au.16 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

briefsSUSTAINABILITY THE KEY In 2001, 2786 tonnes of cabernet was produced. In 2014, the figure dropped under 1000 tonnes. Prices that were $2096/tonne 16 years ago are todayTHE McLaren Vale Wine Show has created an Australian – and possible world around $1390/tonne. Acreage, too, is down to half that of pinot noir.– first by making sustainability a condition of entry for winemakers.It will be phased in from next year with the show’s single vineyard classes. “Cabernet is not exactly the sexiest variety at the moment,” says RichardMakers entering those classes will be required to be members of Sustainable Howden, chief executive officer, Wine Yarra Valley. Once celebrated, theAustralia Winegrowing (SAW). In 2017 winemakers entering 2017 whites will future of valley cabernet sauvignon now lies with producers like Yeringberg,require SAW and in 2018, membership will apply to those entering 2018 reds. Seville Estate, Dominique Portet and Mount Mary who continue to make and“Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of not only where and how their promote the grape.wines are produced, but the longer-term impacts for the environment, economyand community,” says McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Associationchairman John Hill. “The introduction of sustainability into our region’s showwill ensure that excellence in production and quality is now celebrated sideby side with sustainability.”COMING TO GRIPS WITH A HEARTBREAKER FIVE FOR ALLIT’S NOT called the heartbreak grape for nothing as many makers of pinot IN West Australian rural areas, country folk are very good at hopping in to helpnoir can attest. Now enthusiasts and keen amateur winemakers can find out neighbours and others – as well as themselves.for themselves with a pinot course that takes them from the vineyard throughto winemaking and the finished bottle. The Heartbreak Grape program, in its Take the unique wine style made under the Five Virtues label and carrying15th year, is conducted at various vineyard sites (depending on the course the Southern Cross.chosen) across the Mornington Peninsula over one year, with monthly meetings.It starts in April and studies take students through the pruning, growing cycles Now in its fourth vintage, the shiraz-based product represents the five regionsof the vine and up to vintage in 2017. Conducted by former Melbourne wine of the State’s Great Southern, enabling its producer association to financiallyretailer Peter Mitchell, The Heartbreak Grape costs $990 per person. Course survive, according to present chairman and local winemaker Andrew Hoadley.numbers are restricted to 20. Introductory, intermediate and advanced coursesare offered and, judging by the medals awarded at local amateur wine shows, “Since the first wine was made in 2005, our sales have yielded more thanthe standards are high. “Over the years students have won 19 medals,” says $100,000 for the association’s costs,” he said.Mitchell. “This year they won a gold medal and Best Pinot Noir of the Showat one show.” Enthusiasts from as far away as Queensland and China attend. The present release is from 2013 – and is the best, says Hoadley.For further details contact Mitchell on [email protected] or The industry believes the wine demonstrates the diversity of shiraz across thephone 0419 523 194. region by bringing together parcels of fruit selected from the five sub-regions creating a wine of harmony and complexity.MASTERS AT WORK The fruit is handled by a different winemaker from each sub-region, with each aiming to capture the character of their own vineyard.A RECORD number of 19 candidates passed the 2015 Masters of Wine The contributors include: Denmark, James Kellie; Porongurup, Rob Diletti;examination including two Australians, both women. Mt Barker, Cath Oates and Janice McDonald; Albany, Andries Mostert; Frankland, Andrew Cherry and Kim Horton. In all, the individual releases have They were Wendy Cameron, former chief winemaker at Brown Brothers, and amounted to 3500 bottles on average.Andrea Pritzker, an independent wine consultant based in Sydney. The final blend is assembled by James Kellie, of Harewood Estate and Cath Oates, of Plantagenet. Hoadley said the final result was a shiraz greater than Until recently, Pritzker, who was born in Canada, was head of content at the sum of its parts, bringing together richness, savouriness, red and blackLangton’s Fine Wine Auctions. Cameron now works as a consultant and is fruits, and lifted spice notes.based in south-western Victoria. Successful candidates came from a diverse “As well as being a great drink, it is the work of many hands, togetherrange of countries, including Greece, Ireland and New Zealand. Singapore also expressing the spirit of camaraderie and cooperation across our vast region,”received its first ever MW. Typically, the process to becoming a MW is a long, he said.hard road with three stages to be completed: theory, practical examinations “Today’s industry owes much to John Sprigg, chairman when the wine wasand a final research paper. There are 340 MWs in the world with another 321 established, and the vision of his board.”students from 37 countries working their way through the program.CABERNET SAUVIGNON IN DECLINEYARRA VALLEY cabernet sauvignon, once the pride of the region, is in decline.The grape, with a history in the valley dating back to the 1850s, is now beingusurped in plantings and price per tonne by newcomers chardonnay andpinot noir. “It gets lost in the rush to market chardonnay and pinot, yet YarraValley cabernet is what put us on the map and what many of us still do verywell,” argues Sandra de Pury, winemaker at Yeringberg. Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW PINOT NOIR BASKS IN NEW FOUND POPULARITYWE ALL know that (good) Burgundian pinot noir 12,000ha. It used to be second placed after France who’ve long been working with pinot noir.indisputably sets the bar for pinot noir aspiration until the 2004 Sideways film prompted a firm flurry As in Germany, a revival of fortunes for pinotand quality. It’s the region to which growers across of planting in the US. California now has 16,500ha.the world look for inspiration and imitation (in the Nonetheless, plantings in Germany continue to grow noir dates from around the late 1970s whennicest possible way) … elegance, ethereal perfume, – up to 12 per cent of the vineyard area now, from 9 some producers ventured to Burgundy. Foulquesseductively silky texture, a beguiling blossoming of per cent in 2000. Nearly half of these hectares are Aulagnon, of the Alsace regional wine body, said:flavour on the palate, reaching an unrivalled power, planted in warmer, relatively, Baden, then Pfalz and “people like Rene Mure (of Domaine Mure), returningdelicacy and finesse in the best examples. Rheinhessen and Wurttemberg. But it is the tiny Ahr from stages in Burgundy, tried the Burgundy style – valley, deep in Germany’s cool viticultural north, that with colour, and barrels. Similarly, Domaine Albert The famed pinnacle of pinot noir performance is the has made pinot noir its own, where it accounts for Mann have been using traditional BurgundianCote d’Or - just 9500ha of vineyards, with pinot noir nearly two-thirds of plantings, though in absolute techniques since 1993.being roughly a third of this. Such a small patchwork terms this equates to just 350ha. Here, vines areof small vineyard sites must, surely, demonstrate densely packed on to steep south-facing vineyards The late 1970s was after the creation of Alsacethe minute site specificity preferences of pinot noir? to harvest as much warmth as possible so far north. Grand Cru in 1975. Pinot noir was not a permittedAnd yet, growers the world over search for this holy variety in the grand cru structure. Even though vinesgrail in their own back yards. For example, between Pinot noir (and its synonyms blauburgunder; are planted in some of them. To get around this, therethem Australia (5000ha) and New Zealand (5500 spatburgunder, clevner) arrived in Germany in is now something approximating to a small trendha) have as much pinot noir as the whole of the the Middle Ages. At Kloster Eberbach, a former in Alsace to use a letter after the grape variety toBurgundy region. Cistercian monastery in Rheingau, records of making indicate a pinot noir wine that has come from a grand wine from pinot noir go back to the 12th century, cru site, but cannot be labelled as such because it But in all the glory and adulation of Burgundy, its presumably monks bringing vines on their travels. is not one of the permitted varieties. Thus DomaineCote d’Or, its premier crus and its grand crus, it is The same order of monks took pinot noir to Baden Mure’s “Pinot Noir V” comes from the grand crueasy to lose sight of other regions in Europe where a century later. Vorbourg; Domaine Albert Mann’s “Pinot Noir Grandexciting pinot noir is being made; where pinot noir H” comes from Hengst and Domaine Albert Boxler’shas been grown for decades, if not hundreds of The modern revolution in German pinot noir making “Pinot Noir S” is from fruit grown on Sommerberg.years; where greater commitment, skill and dare one really began as recently as the 1980s. Prior to thissay it, sometimes a bit more warmth from climate time, the “norm” in Germany was to make red wines In fact there is a petition before the authorities tochange are all helping the growing reputation. in a similar way to white wines that is, essentially allow pinot noir for Vorbourg and fellow grand cruThe story of pinot noir is becoming more than just taking them off skins before the fermentation Hengst, so it’s possible that in a couple of years theBurgundy. had really got going – colour and tannin weren’t first Alsace pinot noir grand cru could be allowed. typically well regarded at that time. Now, all the There’s no doubt that pinot noir is indeed all those usual red-winemaking options are experimented Across in the Loire valley, 600ha of sancerre areadjectives that are variously ascribed to it - fickle, with - pre-fermentation cold soak (for colour without planted to pinot noir, a possibly surprising 20 per centcapricious, pernickety, demanding and grumpy tannin), whole bunches (e.g. for greater aromatics), of the appellation. In this region, also, increasinglywhen it isn’t planted in the best spots. It likes a cool various proportions of large oak and smaller barrel good pinot noir is coming to attention. For example,climate. But it’s early budding, so it’s susceptible maturation, with varying proportions of new oak in Domaine Andre Dezat makes two styles. Theirto spring frost damage. The grape has thinnish there (added texture/flavour/complexity). And one classic pinot noir is all about ready fruitiness, and isskins, so getting enough tannins and colour without could argue Germans have a unique advantage, made in two to six-year-old barrels for six months.extracting bitterness and astringency can be because for pinot noir, with its lightness of tannin/ More recently they have started making anotherchallenging. Added to which, pinot noir’s paleness colour, the focus for wine balance remains along pinot noir using more Burgundian techniques, fromof colour is a traditional hallmark in a world more the fruit-acid continuum, something with which older vines, about 60 years. Firmin Dezat said: “werecently conditioned to imagine deep colour equals winemakers in Germany are very familiar as this is cold soak for four to seven days to extract colour,high quality. a key premise for making riesling. fruit flavour and good tannins. Then we warm to 28C-30C to ferment. The cold soak plus fermentation And it’s early ripening, so it really only works in Back in France, renewed interest and acclaim maceration is longer in a good ripeness year andthose cooler climates which allow sufficient length is building for pinot noir from regions further north shorter in less good ripeness year” to avoid anythingof growing season without excessive heat. And too (cooler in the northern hemisphere) than Burgundy. unripe in the latter. Maturation follows in new andmuch heat burns those thin skins. But get it right Pinot noir has long been permitted in several one-year-old barrels for nine to10 months.and it’s wonderfully expressive of its site, terroir, appellations, notably Alsace, and Sancerre in thecall it what you will. And expression of terroir is also Loire valley. Indeed, pinot noir makes up about 10 Along with other areas, such as the notably nicheterribly a la mode. per cent of the Alsace vineyard and 20 per cent of the Alto Adige in very northern Italy, and parts of Austria, Sancerre vineyard. A bit of climate change probably also making noteworthy pinot noir, there are plenty It turns out Germany is the country with the is helping to bring a renewed repute to producers of locations across Europe where pinot noir isthird largest pinot noir plantings in the world, with increasingly demonstrating its expression of site.18 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

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winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY GIVING SHIRAZ A SHAKE-UP SHIRAZ is being shaken up. The old and somewhat Moorilla Estate has some of the oldest planting of and it compliments his range of stylistic and singletired approach to Australian shiraz is being shiraz in Tasmania from the early 1990’s. Its 2014 vineyard Hunter shiraz. Choosing the shiraz fruitquestioned and there is a trend towards upsetting Muse Syrah displays all the hallmarks of a cool- was also critical in this pinot-like, medium-bodiedthe norm. Winemakers are making decisions climate wine. It has vibrant white pepper aromas, red. He first used fruit sourced from the old Benbehind boardroom doors, or more likely out in the with medium acid (something not to be overlooked Ean vineyard but when Fosters (now Treasury Wineback “lean-to” that they cannot break through the in a red) and a medium-bodied palate. But the Estates) refused to sell it to him he turned to a smallsaturated market with your standard recipe shiraz. most exciting wine I recently tried in Tasmania 0.2ha block in the Trevena vineyard. Positioned nextThere are simply too many of them on the shelf and it was a barrel sample from Freycinet vineyard of to the famous HVD and Braemore vineyards it is raredoesn’t catch the eye of that enigmatic creature- the its 2013 shiraz. It was juicy, with vibrant black to find a block of shiraz planted on sandy alluvialsommelier. So the script is being thrown out. cherry fruit as well as black pepper spice and is soils, these are normally reserved for semillon. “The destined to be an outstanding wine when it is finally nature of the soils has given us a prettier, lighter When I say old approach I’m talking about full- released. Winemaker Claudio Radenti purchased a style,” reflects Thomas, which is out of step to mostbodied, high alcohol wines with lashings of ripe neighbour’s vineyard in 2013, which has a tiny 0.2ha Hunter shiraz, perhaps the wine should be calledfruit matched with similar levels of new barrique plot of shiraz planted around the ’90s. Quantities are vive la difference rather than deja vu! We lookedoak. It’s being replaced by elegant shiraz, matured tiny but there is more to come. “On the strength of at 2009, 2011 and 2013 vintages and you see thein large format, older oak barrels, and definitely has these initial shiraz wines we have planted an extra evolution of the style and how the vineyard selection,no excessive alcohol. Rich aromas of chocolate, 1000 vines,” comments Radenti. as well as the amount of verjuice, has made the winevanilla and black fruits are being replaced with lighter and lighter as vintages go by.the smell and taste of pepper and spice which is If I was planting a vineyarddistinctively present and not just read about on the Staying in the Hunter, a shiraz pinot blend is notback label. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t mind fruit, in Tasmania now I’d seriously what you would expect to find in a hot region inthat is what Australian wine is all about, but I want Australia. This blend would normally get my backcomplexity as well. Incidentally, if a winery is going consider planting shiraz. up, to say the least. I find some shiraz cabernet hardto charge premium prices then it has to be worth it work as a blend, but this? However, Mount Pleasantand should deliver BLIC – balance, length, intensity Now let’s go back to the future. I’m reliably told by Mount Henry 2011, a blend of 52 per cent shirazand complexity. Often when looking through a range Thommo (AKA winemaker Andrew Thomas), that and 48 per cent pinot noir, works. The pinot noirof wines I end up liking the middle-priced wine and Murray Tyrrell traditionally co-fermented trebbiano comes from the historic front block at the winery andnot the premium one because it is more elegant with shiraz in the 1960s. Trebbiano was grown for the is only used in good years. The wine is meaty andand well balanced. This new breed and approach fortified trade that was the backbone of the industry savoury, with a lick of red cherry. It is medium bodied,to shiraz is springing up in some surprising places. in the 19th and 20th centuries, and up to the 1970s. with a savoury palate and well-balanced acid with Trebbiano was in the past called white shiraz as a slightly tannic finish. The clone that is planted is Tasmanian shiraz, no, that is not a typo, is a good well as white hermitage and in Italy it was blended MV5 and was planted in 1922, the year legendaryexample. Traditionally, Tasmania was regarded as with sangiovese in chianti. “In those days they didn’t winemaker Maurice O’Shea bought what was totoo cold for shiraz, and in some sites that might still have bags of tartaric acid handy so it was a way of become Mount Pleasant. Known as the workhorsebe true; but it is on the rise. You can put the growth boosting the acidity in a warm vintage,” comments variety for Australian pinot this could be the motherdown to global warming or moving with the times, Thomas. Thomas, who is about to open his first ever plant and Australia’s first original pinot plantings.but now producers are adding it to their portfolio. cellar door, couldn’t get hold of Hunter trebbiano so in I’ve not heard about older ones, and does the MVIf I was planting a vineyard in Tasmania now I’d making a traditional Hunter red of by-gone years he stand for Mount View? Makes sense. Former Mountseriously consider planting shiraz. You can trace has used semillon verjuice to makes his DJV Shiraz Pleasant winemaker Gwyn Olsen, now at Briar Ridge,the increase back to 2011 when Nick Glaetzer won (deja vu). He has been making the style since 2007 does the same with her HRB Shiraz Pinot Noir. HRBthe Jimmy Watson Trophy at the Royal Melbourne denoting the old name given to these wines - HunterWine Show with his 2010 Mon Pere Shiraz made River Burgundy.from Coal River Valley fruit.20 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016



winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING A NEW DAWN FOR TOKYO NIGHTSBACK in the late 1980s, Tokyo Nights was a major for reasonable rates. There’s also a great bar on the eat out more often than not and a bad meal is toughhit for the Bee Gees. The years of the Japanese 12th floor. to track down, even if you are reduced to pointing inbubble economy prompted economists to predict a tiny hole-in-the-wall that only seats six.that the 21st century would be a Nippon-dominated Another recent addition to the local accommodationone. That fantasy has faded but the frenetic, trendy scene is Caravan Tokyo in Aoyama, one of the city’s Tokyo has 88,000 bars but some venues are worthlifestyle born during that decade of excess has only most fashionable locales. Permanently parked inside a pilgrimage. Karaoke Kan in Shibuya gained fameintensified. the Commune 246 premises, the swish grey caravan as the venue where Bill Murray filmed the cringe- was hand-made by local craftsmen. Equipped with inducing singing scene in Lost In Translation. Easily the most fashionable city in Asia, Tokyo is all the mod cons, from airconditioning, a bathroom, Lovenet in Roppongi has a variety of wacky boothsthe host city of the 2020 Summer Olympics and the plush bed, audio and wifi systems; book through and settings where drinkers can murder theirJapanese capital is experiencing an unprecedented Airbnb.com. favourite song - while submerged in a hot tub or intourism boom. The dazzling nightlife, restaurant Heaven, where thousands of crystals sparkle fromscene and fast-moving trends make other world For first-time visitors and under a glass floor.cities look like they are on sedatives. Whetheryou want to experience one of the world’s most old hands, the thrill of gazing Professional wrestling buffs haunt Drop Kick ininteresting whisky tastings or fancy sipping on a Shinjuku, where the regular crowd are major drinkerscocktail while being handcuffed in a cell, there’s no out on the tidal wave of and watch re-runs of WWE and kickboxing bouts.shortage of weird and wonderful experiences. Crime is minimal in Japan, which is why the idea of flashing lights of Tokyo at experiencing a night in the clink has wide appeal. Japanese whiskies have become giant killers, Warders meet you at the door at The Lockup, also inbeating their Scottish and American rivals in night never palls. Shibuya, clap on handcuffs and escort you to a cell.international competitions. Bar Zoetrope, an intimate Blood-curdling screams echo in the corridors andbarfly’s haunt in Shinjuku, stocks more than 300 Even Tokyo locals don’t have a hope of getting a the staff serve cocktails named after misdemeanoursbottlings from Suntory to rare single-cask one-offs grip on the whole city sprawl. For first-time visitors - Drug Addiction and Bad Loan.you won’t find anywhere else. Whiskies sourced and old hands, the thrill of gazing out on the tidaldirectly from distilleries throughout Japan are the wave of flashing lights of Tokyo at night never palls. Eaten too much or tired after too much touring?magnets at Bar Kamo in Ginza but only those with An army of bars claims to offer the best after-dark There’s no need to head to rural areas to experiencedeep wallets should order the elite selection of very panorama but standout contenders are The Star an onsen - the famous Japanese hot springs. LaQuarare spirits. The HQ of whisky giant Nikka is close to Road bar at the Grand Pacific Le Daiba, The Peak in Tokyo Dome City sports hot spring pools, saunas,Aoyama Gakuin University, where the Blender’s Bar Bar at the Park Hyatt and the Imperial Lounge Aqua massage and beauty services.in the basement stocks everything from everyday of the iconic Imperial Hotel, designed in the 1920stipples to 17-year-old pure malts. by Frank Lloyd Wright. Like any vast city, Tokyo is a series of ‘hoods. Global fast fashion brands may have set up shop Tokyo has been a by-word for its luxury hotels for The Japanese capita has more Michelin 3 Star in Harajuku but it remains the capital of kei - thedecades but a new page was turned in December restaurants than Paris - 12 compared to nine. A long- wacky tribes who change their fashion direction by2014, with the launch of the Aman Tokyo, the luxury time fan of sushi, US President Obama dropped by the month. Hipster cafes, vintage menswear shopshotel group’s first urban retreat. Located on the top at the triple stellar Sukiyabashi Jiro in Ginza which is and more springboard major trends. Shibuya issix floors of Tokyo’s new Otemachi Tower, the floor-to- booked out for weeks ahead. Ramen in all its guises the definitive ‘hood for on-trend boutiques, bars,ceiling windows are filled with views of the Imperial seems to be the dish of the day at half of Tokyo’s nightclubs and restaurants, from exy to dirt-cheap.Palace Gardens and Mount Fuji. The 84 rooms 100,000 restaurants. Hot Tip: Kikuya, which has It’s also home to The Monocle Shop, where the luxeand suites are the largest in the city and even the been dishing up the noodles since 1952. Izakaya magazine’s lifestyle comes to life.swimming pool, framed by gigantic pillars, ranks as restaurants a.k.a Japanese tapas are having aa tourist attraction. Too exy at nearly $1000 a night? real moment in Australia, especially in Sydney. The Akihabara is an often-overwhelming homage toThe Shinjuku Granbell is a relatively new boutique Asakusa district is home to the most traditional and geekdom and gadgets. Ease yourself into the futureproperty in one of the buzziest parts of the city, authentic izakaya restaurants in Tokyo. The Japanese with a visit to Yodabashi Camera Superstore - ninewhich offers style, good service and convenience stories of the latest in hi-tech. If you’re a keen gamer, the area also has the most game centres in Tokyo.22 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

FOURTH GENERATION, BAROSSA VALLEY BORN, TRADE ENQUIRIES:WINEMAKER SIMON HACKETT ESTABLISHED S.A. Chace Agencies (08) 8363 7881 [email protected] WINERY ON A FERTILE HILL OVERLOOKING VIC Working Wine 0402 214 742 [email protected] VALE OVER 20 YEARS AGO. SIMON NSW & QLD Estate Wine Distributors (02) 9668 9930HACKETT PRODUCES A STUNNING RANGE OF [email protected] INCLUDING THE VERY POPULAR LIMITED UK & Europe - ABS Wine Agencies [email protected] ANTHONY’S RESERVE SHIRAZ AND Hong Kong – Wine Culture Limited [email protected] ROAD RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON. Simon Hackett Wines - 41 Budgens Road, McLaren Vale (08) 8323 7712 [email protected] INTO THE CELLAR DOOR FOR A TASTINGAND TAKE IN THE STUNNING PANORAMIC VIEWS.

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE SIMON VISITS NEW ZEALAND (PART THREE)EARLY into his visit to New Zealand in February 1964, a 1948, “both very nice wines but the 1950 having, in New Zealand’, played a major part in promotingFrenchman Andre Simon was introduced by his for me, greater appeal and charm than the 1948”. the development of the young industry. Among hishost, Frank Thorpy, to a local delicacy, mutton bird, Last were a Chateau Latour 1952, “a good wine, recommendations he urged the government to assistat Thorpy’s home. He found it abhorrent. A glass of of course, but the other was the Chateau Margaux winegrowers by establishing a viticultural college:1955 Moet washed away the bird’s brine. Fortunately, 1953, a great wine and, in my opinion, the best claret this was opened in 1902. He also recommendedthe next course saved the day, “a perfectly grilled, of the evening”. Simon was amazed at the quality regions suitable for viticulture, especially Hawke’sthick, rare and tender fillet of beef, no vegetables, of the wines, and wondered, “in how many parts of Bay, Central Otago and Wairarapa. Importantly,but a nice salad and some fruit”. And a bottle of 1953 France, England or the US it would be possible to he urged that phylloxera-resistant vines should beClos de la Vigne au Saint shipped by Louis Latour sit down to such vinous wealth”. Last wine for the imported from Europe and California for grafting. Butwas a perfect partner for the beef. night was a Chateau Yquem 1947, served with the few of his recommendations had been acted upon when he left in 1909. That evening, February 9, Simon attended a black- Chef and owner, Mrs Margetie dinner of the Auckland Wine and Food Society’s In 1897 vines, including cabernet sauvignon,committee at the Town and Country Roadhouse Harre, prepared an excellent pinot noir, pinot meuniere, chardonnay, shiraz andRestaurant, in Oratia, West Auckland. This famous riesling were planted at the station. Not all were freerestaurant ran from 1949 to 1968. Chef and owner, meal which in Simon’s opinion from phylloxera. But by 1905 all new plantings wereMrs Marge Harre, prepared an excellent meal grafted to American phylloxera-resistant rootstocks.which in Simon’s opinion was only surpassed by was only surpassed by the Bragato was appointed government viticulturist forthe sequence of wines, which was “breathtaking the New Zealand Department of Agriculture in 1902,as well as thirstslaking”. The fare was “mussels in sequence of wines, which and in this role he began experimental winemakingshells, baked trout, saddle of lamb with vegetables, at the Waerenga station, improved the researcha choice of many cheeses, and two pavlovas, was ‘breathtaking as well as station and vineyard at Te Kauwhata, and also setone with strawberries and the other with passion up one at Arataki, Hawke’s Bay. He established andfruit”. Her kitchen is vividly described in the book thirstslaking’. organised field days for growers when they couldRoadhouse days, written by two family members learn what were the best vines for local conditions.and published in 2009. “Marge was in love with her pavlovas, “also a great wine and the finest white Furthermore, these days provided an opportunity forESSE stove. Her heart and the central fire, deep in wine of the evening”. All of the wines came from the winegrowers to taste the station’s wines. Amazingly,the heart of the ESSE, were intertwined. She loved Society’s cellar, in Auckland and were “maturing in five wines from the Te Kauwhata Experimental Stationand was loyal to her cast of aluminium pots, her peace”. They were bought with the entrance fees won gold medals at the Franco-British Exhibitionstock pot, her chopping boards and her knives paid by new members. held in London for six months in 1908, and attended(always a bit blunt) and most of all her kitchen. She by between 20 and 40 million people. This wasspoke of it as ‘herchapel’ (sic). She loved most of The following day Thorpy and Simon set off early quite an achievement for an infant industry from aher clients and welcomed them like close family. for the Waerenga (Te Kauwhata) Viticultural Research small country. But even this and other successesThe clients included many people well known in Station. South of Auckland, Te Kauwhata is one of were not enough to withstand the potential effectsAuckland, as well as people from further afield New Zealand’s smaller winegrowing regions, and is of the spread of the temperance movement.such as violinist Yehudi Menuhin.” The wines were today known for its cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay Growers were worried that the increasingly powerfulcertainly spectacular. They began with a Chevalier- and sauvignon blanc. The station has had an eventful movement might persuade the government toMontrachet, Les Demoiselles 1950 and a Corton life, some of which is worth summarising. Italian- introduce legislation to their detriment. It was notCharlemagne 1954, both shipped by Louis Latour. educated Romeo Bragato had been appointed surprising, therefore, that vineyard plantings slowedSimon preferred the Corton Charlemagne. The government viticulturist for Victoria in 1889. In 1895 dramatically, as did government support for thelamb was accompanied by “a delicious” Chambolle he was “lent” to the New Zealand Government to industry. Bragato’s plans to expand the industryMusigny Charmes 1953, shipped by Avery, followed assess prospects for viticulture and wine making mostly fell through, and he left Te Kauwhata in 1909,by six clarets, served in pairs. First came two Graves there, “to understand New Zealand’s soil, and to never to return. But his influence lives on, and today– a 1947 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte, “only fair”, and implement a program to establish varieties that he is remembered as “the father of the New Zealanda 1948 Chateau Haut-Brion, which was “very fine would thrive in the diverse climatic conditions”. wine industry”.indeed”. Next were two Chateau Lafites, a 1950 and His encouraging report, ‘Prospects of Viticulture Next time we’ll look at the wines Simon and Thorpy tasted there.24 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

2015 WINESTATE AWARD WINNERS SOUTH AUSTRALIA Wine / Chardonnay of the Year: Alternative Red of the Year:Bird in Hand Nest Egg Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2012 Pepperjack Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 2013 Wine Company of the Year: Cabernet of the Year: Bird in Hand Casella 1919 Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Winemaker of the Year: Shiraz of the Year: Kim Milne, Bird in Hand Saltram No. 1 Shiraz 2010 Riesling of the Year - equal winners: Koonowla the Ringmaster Clare Valley Riesling 2015 Pauletts Aged Release Polish Hill River Clare Valley Riesling 2010To hear more South Australian success stories subscribe to the Inside South Australia blog SUBSCRIBE

Heartland Basks in a Season of AnticipationVirnetpao2g0er1t 5CHARLES GENTMUCH of Australia’s fertile crescent of winegrowing be some good wines, but the winemaking skills exceedingly happy with both yields and fruit qualityfound itself favoured by the 2014/2015 season, that were scarcely required in ’13 and ’14 will be in across all varieties.although even with a generally restrained summer, strenuous use.many regions still reported disconcertingly early It was a very good year for Victoria’s pinot andstarts and finishes to harvest. Rain was also a persistent motif in Mudgee, with the chardonnay belt. In the Yarra Valley, a mild spring chardonnay and shiraz being identified as the best segued into warm summer temperatures to produce And while joy was pretty much unconfined hopes for an otherwise ordinary season. (yet another) early harvest. A dry March resultedin Canberra, the Yarra Valley, Rutherglen and in pristine fruit with good acid. Expectations forthe Adelaide Hills, all was not so well at the two In contrast, Orange’s fine, disease-free spring gave the pinot noir and chardonnay are sky-high, andextremities – yields in Western Australia plummeted, way to judicious rains either side of Christmas, and probably realistic.and the Hunter and Queensland struggled. a cool, dry summer brought almost ideal growing conditions and healthy yields. Generous fruit flavours The Mornington Peninsula, still jumpy from the Usually protected from extremes by its elevation, will make for excellent riesling, cabernet franc, merlot disastrous fruit-set last season, had a kinder spring,Queensland’s Granite Belt was subjected to and shiraz, with chardonnay that lacks only volume. and the mild summer brought the yields up tosearing heatwaves during January and February. moderate, balancing the initially high acids. ExpectIn Ballandean, nemesis came earlier in the form of The Canberra region, as old hand Ken Helm good fruit flavours.vicious December hailstorms. Crops suffered, as succinctly put it, had a cracker. While the seasondid quality. was early and short, benign weather brought Given a desiccated spring, the rainstorms of exceptional fruit quality. Riesling, in particular, holds January and February came as a relief to Geelong, South of the border, the Hunter Valley finally fell great promise. The nearby Central New South Wales and put the sealer on a very early but very soundvictim to its sub-tropical hoodoo. On the back of a regions, including Hilltops, are also shouting the season. Yields were moderate, and natural aciditydamp December, the new year brought renewed virtues of their wines, especially their cabernet. shone. The whites, as well as shiraz and pinot noir,bouts of heavy rain, which teamed with high are highly fancied.temperatures in January and February to adversely South of the river border, Rutherglen’s season wasaffect ripening and drive disease. There will still for once characterised by a merciful absence of Thanks to the moderate summer, the rest of Victoria frost, heat or rain, and wineries declared themselves also turned in good report cards, with Sunbury and26 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

Warm days, cool nights and no rains made for a near- perfect ripening period, and vignerons are calling it the best year of the past 10.the Macedon Ranges expecting impressive pinot century, riesling is again outstanding, with cabernet Olwyn’s wake was not so kind to Pemberton andnoir and whites, and the fast-finishing Bendigo and and shiraz also showing premium quality. Manjimup, knocking the cabernet around, but theHeathcote both predicting shiraz of notable structure mild conditions for earlier ripeners is expected toand stature. In the Adelaide Hills, warm days, cool nights and produce high quality, if lower quantity, in whites and no rains made for a near-perfect ripening period, and in pinot noir, shiraz and merlot. Great Southern’s Tasmania had glowing reports from all points of vignerons are calling it the best year of the past 10. year was respectable rather than brilliant; the mild,its winegrowing compass: good spring rain, mild With the sad exception of some vines in the north, dry summer was welcome, but yields fell by assummer temperatures and virtually no disease. Cool where January’s bushfires left the calling card of much as half.nights chimed in during the lead up to picking, so smoke-taint, the vintage promises truly excellentit’s no surprise that top notch chardonnay and pinot whites – gruner veltliner is the hot tip – along with In Geographe, yields were better, with early pickingnoir are in train. flavoursome, purple shiraz. rewarded when the vintage was split by rain. Semillon and sauvignon blanc are looking good, along with In South Australia, almost everything ran early. In McLaren Vale, a mild January with very welcome most reds.Following a very dry spring, early January brought rainfall gave way to a warm, dry and compressedgood rain to the Barossa with mild temperatures, vintage. Yields were down overall, but good natural Kicking the southern trend, the older Swan Valleywhile February, although warmish, was free of acidity and intensity can be expected from reds and region had an exceptionally good run, with bothheatwaves. Baume initially shot up in the reds, but whites. At Langhorne Creek, the dry season kept yields and quality rated at very near the top end.eventually returned deep colour and rich flavours, yields down but quality soared, especially in shirazwith shiraz yields well up on the past two meagre and petit verdot. The national crush, at 1.67 million tonnes, wasyears. Reds and whites from Eden Valley are also fractionally larger than 2014, but only by a mereanticipating excellence. The Coonawarra had a warm spring, a big drink in 7000 tonnes. Overall, reds were slightly down against mid-January, a lengthy, mild summer and, startlingly, whites, but the respective crushes are very close to The January rains were very generous in Clare, a normal vintage schedule. It gave rise to elegant level pegging.but the even summer temperatures had beneficial shiraz and flavoursome cabernet with good tannins.effects. Despite the earliest finish to vintage in a half- Varietally, chardonnay edged even further ahead In the major irrigated areas, a fall in yields in the as the number one white, with sauvignon blanc Murray-Darling was offset by gains in the Riverina. cemented in second place. Other jockeying in the South Australia’s Riverland escaped heatwaves, minor white placings saw viognier and marsanne but still had high average temperatures. Yields go backwards. In the red crush, shiraz easily holds were steady and quality was pleasing, but abrupt sway, with close to half the total. ripening made harvest logistics trying. And please don’t mention the grape prices. Free trade agreements, the lower dollar and (possibly) reformed taxation regimes may stir the The West has had a remarkable run of very solid sluggish sales and profitability of Australian wine, seasons; this year had a few vicissitudes. Margaret but there are also some less tractable features: the River had a super early finish to vintage; most efficiencies of broadacre, irrigated production remain wrapped up well before April. Yields were down, at odds with the evolving tastes of international and quite drastically for some, thanks to cold weather domestic markets. early on and a blustery spring. Cyclone Olwyn’s spin-offs of rain and cloud slowed the ripening of And while the industry strategically seeks to reds, which was all to the good. High quality can redefine the problem from one of oversupply to be found in chardonnay and cabernet; the overall one of under-demand, it seems likely that prices for verdict is fair-to-middling. grapes without claims to high quality or identifiable terroir will to continue to fester. Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 27

dyBnuildainsg atyMICHAEL COOPERHEADQUARTERED in lovely hill country at between them, with Peter as general manager and position with the company. Holder of a RoseworthyHenderson, in West Auckland, Babich is a classic Joe as winemaker. In the mid-1990s, Joe became degree in oenology and a BCom in marketing and- the classic - example of the long-established, the managing director, enabling Peter to ease management, he is now the general manager.middle-sized, family-owned producers of Croatian back, although he is still actively involved as theorigin that play a major role in the New Zealand company chairman. The Babich wine style is distinctive.wine industry. It’s currently celebrating its 100th Sledgehammer, high impact, heavily oaked winesvintage. Both brothers have played important roles in are avoided; the accent is on delicacy, balance and the emergence of the modern NZ wine industry. finesse, which gives the wines great drinkability. Ranked in the top 50 of the World’s Most Admired Peter joined his father in 1948, when the companyWine Brands by Drinks International in 2012, the crushed 20 tonnes of grapes (about 150 cases Critical to the development of new wines is thecompany was founded by Josip (Joe) Babich, of wine). Having steered Babich’s transition from “Judy test”. Before any wine goes to market, Joewho left Dalmatia in 1910, at the age of 14, to hybrid to classic vinifera grape varieties and served takes it home for his wife, Judy, to evaluate. If thejoin his brothers toiling in the gumfields of the Far as deputy-chair of the Wine Institute from 1976 bottle sits on the kitchen bench, unfinished, heNorth of NZ. His first wine was produced in 1916. to 1980, Peter was awarded an MBE in 1989 for knows there is more work to do.On terraces above a swampy gumfield, he grew services to the wine industry.grapes, trod them with his feet, and opened a The biggest-selling wine is Babich Marlboroughwine shop. Joe was the winemaker for over 35 years. During a Sauvignon Blanc. Babich favours a full-bodied, visit to Europe in the early 1980s, he was impressed ripely flavoured, softer style of sauvignon blanc: The shift to Auckland came in 1919, where Josip with many of the wines he tasted. In 1985, based on “It’s not a jump out of the glass style, but theestablished a small mixed farm with fruit trees, grapes from the Irongate Vineyard, in Hawke’s Bay, wines develop well”. The core range also featuresvegetables – and classical pinot meunier vines. Joe crafted one of NZ’s first chardonnays to be not a chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot noir, syrah andDuring World War II, wine slowly became the only matured, but also fermented and lees-aged, in merlot/cabernet.family’s major business activity. Josip died in 1983, French oak barrels. Chief judge six times at the Airaged 87, having watched as a container load of his New Zealand Wine Awards during the 1980s and Next up the ladder is the Family Estates rangewine was trucked up Babich Rd, on the first stage of 1990s, Joe became an Officer of the New Zealand of single-vineyard wines, including a quartet ofits journey to Europe. Mara, his wife, died in 1994. Order of Merit in 2015. organically certified wines - sauvignon blanc, gruner veltliner, chardonnay and pinot noir - from For several decades, Josip’s sons, Peter (83) David Babich, one of Peter’s sons, is the first third- the Headwaters Vineyard, in Marlborough. Theand Joe (75), neatly divided the company’s tasks generation family member to take up a permanent Winemaker’s Reserve label features premium, small volume wines from low-yielding vines, including sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, syrah and merlot.28 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

A CENTURY OF WINEMAKING HAS NEW ZEALAND’S BABICH FAMILY INCELEBRATION MODE.Sledgehammer, high impact, heavily oakedwines are avoided; the accent is on delicacy, balance and finesse, which gives the wines great drinkability. The two Irongate wines, from an arid, stony Further south, Babich has invested more heavily What would Josip say? “He would think wevineyard in the Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, in Marlborough than anywhere else in the country, were mad,” says Joe. “My father had real, soundare both distinguished. The chardonnay was says Joe Babich. “That is the way the market has principles of winemaking, but when you havetraditionally leaner and tighter than other top gone and we have gone with it,” he says. enough, why go further? I am not like that. To me,Hawke’s Bay chardonnays, while performing well business is the game and I like it... I just wantin the cellar, but the latest releases are fleshy and Spread across six sites in the Wairau Valley and to make better wine and hand it on to the nextrich, with more drink-young appeal. The cabernet/ Awatere Valley, Babich has 230ha of vines, mostly generation.”merlot/franc is distinctly Bordeaux-like – brambly, sauvignon blanc, but also pinot gris, pinot noir,spicy, complex and firm. riesling, chardonnay, gruner veltliner and albarino. Don’t miss the book. The Next Vintage: The Parts of the 60ha Headwaters Vineyard, in the Babich Family and 100 Years of New Zealand The Patriarch is Babich’s flagship wine. A Wairau Valley, are certified organic. Wine, by Michael Bassett and Judith Bassett,cabernet sauvignon-based red from Hawke’s Bay, was launched in 2015. Skilfully written and oftenwith merlot and malbec in the blend, it is typically Babich also enjoys long-term relationships very moving, it’s the best of the half dozen bookspowerful, with blackcurrant, plum and spice with numerous growers. “The point is that we are published to date about NZ wine companies; aflavours, showing notable richness, complexity growers ourselves, quite large growers,” says Joe model of its kind.and longevity. Babich. “So we understand and have sympathy for them. Our total belief is that both sides have to * Michael Cooper worked at Babich Wines from 1975 Surrounded by suburbia, the home vineyard in be smiling. It’s no use to us if they are running at a to 1990.Auckland is planted principally in chardonnay loss or not making money.”and pinot noir. In Hawke’s Bay, Babich has over Opposite page: Josip Babich, 1970.70ha of vines at four sites, including 38ha at the Commissioned in time for the 2014 vintage, Above: Cowslip Valley Vineyard, Marlborough.famous Irongate Vineyard, in the Gimblett Gravels, Babich’s large new winery in Marlborough is the Right: Peter, Joe & David Babich.where cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, biggest investment ever made by the company.malbec, chardonnay and gewurztraminer have First planned to cater for 3000 tonnes of grapes, itbeen established. has already expanded to a potential crush of 6000 tonnes (yielding about 450,000 cases of wine). Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 29

There are many benefits to heading off WINSOR DOBBIN the beaten track and exploring some of Australia’s less visited wine regions. LANGHORNE CREEK Wine lovers who plan on heading for South30 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016 Australia would probably opt to first visit the Barossa and McLaren Vale, then perhaps the Adelaide Hills, Clare Valley or Coonawarra. Most visitors to Western Australia would have Margaret River as their number one wine destination, while in Victoria the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula top the tourism pops, with Rutherglen and its memorable muscats the favourite destination in the north-east of Victoria. All of which means that anyone heading for Langhorne Creek, the Great Southern and King Valley will find themselves far away from the madding crowds and perhaps find their tasting conducted by the winemaker or grape grower. One region that is often overlooked in favour of its more famous neighbours is little Langhorne Creek, which is less than an hour from Adelaide with a lovely country ambience. The tiny hamlet, population 668 at the last census, is where Wolf Blass sourced the fruit for many of his early trophy winners, and the region

We look to the soils in our vineyards to provide the foundation for healthy vines, intensely flavoured fruit and wines that articulate the distinctive features of the environment in which they are grown.still produces grapes for leading labels, including At Cleggett you can try the unusual mutant white GREAT SOUTHERNJacob’s Creek, George Wyndham, Rosemount cabernet known as shalistan. Western Australia’s Great Southern wine regionEstate and Wolf Blass. is the most remote in Australia bar none – but it You won’t find many places to stay in Langhorne produces some of the best-value wines and offers Over 85 per cent of the fruit grown on over Creek other than a couple of vineyard cottages, but a range of cellar door tasting opportunities.6000ha of vines is on-sold, meaning you rarely see the hamlet is just 10 minutes from Strathalbyn and aLanghorne Creek on wine labels. short drive from Mount Barker in the Adelaide Hills. Close to the Southern and Indian oceans, the Great Southern has warm and sunny days during “The problem we have in gaining recognition is The Bridge Hotel serves good pub grub (beware, the growing season, but cool - sometimes coldthat so much of the fruit produced here is used by the portions are enormous) and you can also get a - nights. The moderate temperatures slow thethe big companies, or in blends that often don’t fine meal at The Winehouse (the attractive shared ripening of grapes and produce wines of excellenteven mention Langhorne Creek on the label,” cellar door of Heartland Wines, Gipsie Jack, balance.said Greg Follett from Lake Breeze, one of the Kimbolton, John’s Blend by John Glaetzer and Benoutstanding local producers. Potts, and also home to the Meechi micro brewery), The Great Southern is the largest appellation and at rustic Angas Plains Winery. in mainland Australia (second only to Tasmania “When people visit us they learn about ourregion, characters and places, and that’s whywe are putting lots of energy into increasing theawareness of Langhorne Creek and its consistentlygreat wines.” Langhorne Creek has a wine history dating backto 1850. It is best-known for cabernet sauvignonand shiraz, which account for 70 per cent ofproduction, but over recent years considerableexperimentation has occurred and a large rangeof grape varieties are grown, including malbec. “We fill the gap in the market place betweencool-climate wines and full-on warmer regions,”says Follett, alluding to the cooling lake and oceanbreezes that define the district. Langhorne Creek is on the banks of the BremerRiver, which flows into Lake Alexandrina. In winter,the river frequently floods across the vineyards,providing natural irrigation to the rich, deep soils. Among the labels and cellar doors to look out forare historic family-owned Bleasdale, Bremerton,Lake Breeze, Brothers in Arms (where the metalavines are some of the oldest in the country), andTemple Bruer, one of the country’s leading organicproducers. Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 31

overall) and it stretches unevenly over an area Many of the wineries, including West Cape Howe KING VALLEYof 150km from north to south and 100km across at Mount Barker, source fruit from several different The lush King Valley in north-east Victoria used toeast to west. sub-regions and then blend. be tobacco-growing country, but today families with Italian heritage have made it one of the most There are five very different sub-regions: Albany, Winemaker Gavin Berry uses fruit primarily from interesting wine regions in the country.Denmark, Frankland River, the Porongurups and Mount Barker but also from Albany and Frankland,Mount Barker. as well as from Margaret River – a four-hour drive From prosecco, the traditional sparkling wine away. style of the Veneto, to sangiovese, the stand-out Albany and Denmark are maritime sub-regions, red grape in Tuscany, the King Valley has becomeclose to the oceans, while the inland sub-regions Given the high profile of wineries like Castle Rock, Australia’s capital of Italian varietals.comprise warmer Mount Barker, Porongurup and Galafrey, Forest Hill, Rockcliffe and others, it seemsFrankland River. Wherever you are in this remote amazing the Great Southern wine industry is so The major names here include Pizzini, Dal Zottoregion, however, you are around 400km and a five- young compared to much of the rest of Australia. and Chrismont, all of whom make Italian varietalshour drive from the state capital of Perth – meaning along with more traditional wine styles.no one finds themselves here by chance. It was only in 1975 that Plantagenet Wines purchased an apple packing shed in Mount Barker Sangiovese, the main grape of the great Chianti “You can travel just 50km in this part of the and converted the building into a winery that made Classicos, has struck a particular chord with theworld and you will find growing conditions that the region’s first commercial wines. Pizzini family, who now make no fewer than sixare completely different,” says Coby Ladwig, different styles from the one grape variety.winemaker at Rockcliffe in Denmark and for Plantagenet and Alkoomi (where they use noSinglefile. herbicides and pesticides in their vineyards) are The Pizzinis recently launched the Pizzini two of the local pioneers enjoying success. Sangiovese Series, a full range of wines primarily Great Southern riesling, usually citrusy with made from sangiovese.brisk acid, is exceptional and rivals that of Clare Today the wine industry is thriving and the Greatand Eden. Plantagenet winemaker Chris Murtha Southern produces 37 per cent of all the wine Among the key experiences are tasting the latestdescribes them as “intense and pure”. grapes in Western Australia. releases at Dal Zotto Wines’ cellar door, including Otto Dal Zotto’s excellent prosecco (he originally Shiraz from the region is also on the upswing. The producers range from 200,000-case wineries came from the Veneto).You won’t find Barossa-style blockbusters here; like Ferngrove to tiny producers like La Violetta,the styles tend to be more focused on juicy fruit Bunn Vineyard and Snake and Herring. The Trattoria, which is only open at the weekend,and savoury/spice notes. Murtha says they have showcases great Italian cuisine, while Whitfield’s“lovely pepper and spice”. Expect fruit-driven, tight At small wineries like family-owned Galafrey in Mountain View Hotel serves terrific gourmet meals.reds with some regional elegance. Mount Barker you can meet Henry, the winery dog, Chrismont will soon throw open the doors to an who will greet you at the car park and escort you impressive new development with sweeping views. Former Ferngrove winemaker Kim Horton, who to the cellar door, while at organic producer Oranjedeparted after the 2015 vintage, characterises Tractor, outside Albany, you can enjoy a home- Other producers to look out for include JohnGreat Southern fruit as “very clean; almost pristine”. made pizza on the deck with the winery workers. Gehrig, Sam Miranda (with a very spiffy cellar door), Symphonia and Wood Park. And the good news for consumers is that winesfrom the Great Southern are generally moreaffordable than those from Margaret River, althougha lot of Great Southern fruit does head further westto be used in blends. Frankland River, home to Frankland Estate,Alkoomi and Ferngrove is the Great Southern’sriesling hot spot – thanks to its warmish days andcool nights. “Frankland River is the coolest and most isolatedwine-growing region in Western Australia,” saysHunter Smith from Frankland Estate, which iscertified organic and uses sustainable agriculture. “Like many winemakers we subscribe to the viewthat great wines are made in the vineyard, not thewinery. We look to the soils in our vineyards toprovide the foundation for healthy vines, intenselyflavoured fruit and wines that articulate thedistinctive features of the environment in whichthey are grown.”32 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

WHERE TO STAYLanghorne Creek: Strathalbyn, a 10-minutedrive away, is your best bet for qualityaccommodation. The Strath Motel offerscomfortable digs at affordable prices. Ithas 23 rooms with a choice of standard,twin or family accommodation. There areTVs, internet access, iron, ironing board,toaster, microwaves, fridges and reverse-cycle airconditioning. It’s not five-star, butit is very comfortable. And it ticks all theboxes for warm country service. The StrathMotel, 4 North Parade, Strathalbyn, SouthAustralia. www.strathmotel.com.au.Great Southern: More luxury hotel thantraditional B&B, the five-star Beach Houseat Bayside is located in a golf resortcomplex just 50m from Middleton Beachand a 10-minute drive from downtownAlbany. There are seven totally privateand very modern suites here, all with en-suites and some with double spa baths.The Beach House at Bayside, 33 BarryCourt, Albany, Western Australia. www.thebeachhouseatbayside.com.au.King Valley: The Chrismont Guest Houseis a vineyard property with great viewsowned by Jo and Arnie Pizzini. The Tuscan-inspired modern villa accommodates up toeight people and a gourmet package with agenerous hamper of breakfast items for thenext day. Add antipasto and chilled La ZonaProsecco on arrival. The entertaining areahas TV, DVD and CD player and there is afully equipped kitchen. Christmont GuestHouse, 251 Upper King River Rd, Cheshunt,Victoria. www.chrismont.com.au.Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 33

Regal riesling extends its reign

DAN TRAUCKIUNTIL fairly recently riesling was synonymous with being lots of talk of a “chardonnay revival”, in vintage has been growing not only in size but also inGerman wine. It is the noble grape variety that for 2015, riesling prices in South Australia exceeded the relevance to the riesling world. As chairman, Helmhundreds of years made the best of, as well as most prices of chardonnay in every region in which both says: “This is not just another wine show, it is an eventof, Germany’s white wine. These wines were mainly varieties are grown. to promote riesling from the vineyard through to thelow in alcohol, around 8-11 per cent and in most consumer. Imparting knowledge about riesling iscases anywhere from slightly sweet through to the The second part of the riesling story starts in 2000, the essence of the event. Our aim is to be the worldamazingly sweet trockenbeerenauslese style. Only when respected Canberra winemaker, Ken Helm AM, centre for communicating riesling knowledge”. Ina small proportion was dry (kabinet) in style. created the Canberra Riesling Challenge in order to keeping with this theme, the organisers announced benchmark and promote rieslings from across the that from 2015 onwards, one of the masterclasses The winds of change started as a zephyr in 1953, nation. The aim being to improve the quality and conducted as part of the CIRC would feature awhen under the inspired leadership of Colin Gramp appreciation of Australian riesling. In the same year riesling growing region of the world. The masterclassAM, Orlando Wines made the first modern white wine Clare Valley winemakers unanimously adopted the will cover the geography, topography, climate and ain Australia using a pressure fermentation vessel use of screwcaps to preserve their rieslings and other tasting of some of the rieslings made in the area. Toimported from Germany. Until then Australian white wines, leading to a global revolution, which is seeingwines were made in an oxidative environment, whichmeant that most were dull, yellow/brown in colour and This is not just another wine show,not very appealing. With the new pressure vessel it it is an event to promote rieslingwas possible to make the wine without any exposure from the vineyard through toto air/oxygen and thereby make a wine that was the consumer.fresh, crisp and delightful. Standard practice today,but a novel concept then. the phasing out of “old closure technology” (corks), kick this new feature off, Kerri Thompson and Neil in favour of the more efficient and safer screwcaps. Pike presented a look at the Clare Valley. It will be The variety used was riesling, which in those days interesting to see which area is showcased in 2016.was called Rhine riesling in Australia, to differentiate It was also the year that the Label Integrity Programit from Hunter riesling (semillon) and Clare riesling (LIP) was introduced so that only wine made from The 2015 event was conducted (as in previous(crouchen). the riesling grape variety could be called riesling, years) at the Hyatt Hotel Canberra, which is with no more “Hunter riesling” (semillon) or “Clare known not only for its 1920s decor but also for its That wine turned the Australian wine drinking scene riesling” (crouchen) being allowed. This has led to outstanding and friendly service, as well as beingon its ear and it wasn’t very long before white wine, the disappearance of the ubiquitous “riesling cask” one of the sponsors of the event. The 2015 CIRCmore specifically riesling, was King with a whole made from any grape variety, usually sultana or had almost 500 entries from seven of the eightnew generation of Aussies learning to drink wine by gordo, which bore no resemblance to true riesling. largest riesling producers in the world, with onlyenjoying this delicious white wine. However, putting the word “riesling” on these casks Austria missing. had a very negative impact on consumer impression The German monarch’s reign did not last very of this noble variety. The judging panel was almost as cosmopolitan;long because by the end of the 1980s the French the chairman of judges being a New Zealander,usurper chardonnay had conquered the kingdom. From humble beginings16 years ago the Canberra with the panel of six judges including a German andEver since rumours circulated around the kingdom Riesling Challenge, now appropriately named the an American judge. The US judge, Jim Trezise, isthat the vanquished King riesling was about to make Canberra International Riesling Challenge (CIRC), founder and president of the International Rieslinga comeback. These rumours were pointless becausethe reality is that discerning wine drinkers never reallywalked away from riesling. They have been enjoyingquality riesling all along and now the wine’s appealis spreading to other white wine drinkers who arelooking for a more engaging and sophisticated whitewine. This is evidenced by the fact that despite there Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 35

Foundation (IRF), a coalition of top riesling producers entrant, the Sheldrake Point Winery, with its 2014 Both chairman Ken Helm AM and ambassador Wolffrom around the world, including Australia. The Wild Ferment Riesling Ice Wine, Finger Lakes, New Blass AM declared the 2015 rieslings from acrossIRF has created a “riesling taste profile” and is York. In previous years this trophy has been won Australia and the southern hemisphere are someencouraging riesling producers around the world to by Germany, New Zealand and Australia. Thus four of the best they have seen. Helm said: “the 2015incorporate it into their back label (free of charge) to out of the competing seven nations have won this Canberra rieslings are the best that the region hasadvise purchasers/consumers how dry or sweet that prestigious trophy. ever produced”.particular riesling is. This move is aimed at avoidingthe shock of opening a bottle that is presumed to This year’s Best in Australia trophy was won by The upshot of this world-class wine event is thatbe dry and finding it is sweet, or vice versa. To Tamar Valley winery Chartley Estate, with its 2014 no matter which way you look at things, the futuredate some 26 million bottles of riesling have been riesling. It also won the Best Dry Riesling trophy for both riesling (here and around the world) andproduced with the scale on the back label. I would and the Best Riesling from Tasmania trophy. for the Canberra International Riesling Challengeencourage all Australian riesling producers to adopt Coincidentally Loraine and Peter Kossmann planted is looking pretty damn good. Riesling will neverthis scale, especially those exporting to Asia. their 4ha vineyard in 2000, the year the CIRC started. challenge whatever white variety is the “fad of the Today their vineyard has expanded to 10ha and is moment”, instead it will continue to grow and earn The trophy presentation at the Hyatt Hotel, was planted to riesling, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and respect of serious wine drinkers as the most regal ofan excellent, star-studded affair, with the presence pinot noir. With the riesling vines 15 years old, they white wines, which unlike most other white varietiesof the winners, judges, the ACT Chief Minister, the have really hit their “straps” as is attested by the can be appreciated in its youth, in its middle agesNew Zealand Ambassador, a representative of the triple trophy win. and as a real old-timer. Twenty to fifty-year-oldAmerican Embassy (the US Ambassador was due to rieslings are an absolute joy. Likewise, the CIRC willpresent their trophy, but was called away) and three Lorraine says: “Winning the triple trophy has continue to evolve and grow in stature as the world’sGerman ambassadors – the current Ambassador, the created enormous attention, which is great because premier riesling event. I look forward to watching thisformer Ambassador (who created the trophy for Best as a small producer you don’t get much attention in development.European Riesling) and, of course, the permanent the media. It has opened up new opportunities, notGerman Riesling Ambassador to the world - Wolf only in Australia, but overseas as well. It is fantastic. Discussions are underway to try to ensure that theBlass AM. Our vineyard is in the Rowella area, on the banks of Austrians, Canadians and other riesling producing the Tamar River, and so is Waterton Wines, which nations, participate in 2016. For the first time the Canberra International won the Best Museum trophy, giving the area fourRiesling Challenge Trophy was won by a US trophies out of the 11 awarded”.2015 results...Best Wine of the 2015 Challenge, Best Riesling from New Zealand Encouragement Award for up and comingCanberra International Riesling Glover Family Vineyard, Zephyr Riesling 2014. Australian Riesling WinemakersChallenge Trophy Shaw Vineyard Estate - Stephanie Helm, TheSheldrake Point Winery, 2014 Wild Ferment Best European Riesling, German Vintner’s Daughter.Riesling Ice Wine, Finger Lakes, US. Ambassador’s Perpetual Trophy G.H. von Mumm, 2013 Riesling Eilfer, Rheingau, The prestigious Wolf Blass Award, WolfBest in Australia, ACT Government and Germany. Blass FoundationHyatt Hotel Canberra Trophy Awarded biannually to a person or organisationChartley Estate, Chartley Estate Riesling Best American Riesling, USA Embassy in Australia or New Zealand who has made2014, Tasmania, Australia. Perpetual Trophy a major contribution to the development and Sheldrake Point Winery, 2014 Wild Ferment Ice promotion of riesling is awarded in even years,Best Dry Riesling, Jim Murphy AM Wine, Finger Lakes, US. so it will be awarded next year. Last year’sPerpetual Trophy winner was Colin Gramp AM for a lifetime ofChartley Estate, Chartley Estate Riesling Best from the Canberra District, ACT Chief contributing to riesling.2014, Tasmania, Australia. Minister’s Trophy The Vintner’s Daughter 2015 Riesling, CanberraBest Sweet Riesling, Australia Post District, Australia.TrophySheldrake Point Winery, 2014 Wild Ferment Best Riesling from Tasmania, Tamar ValleyRiesling Ice Wine, Finger Lake, US. Wine Route Trophy Chartley Estate, Chartley Estate Riesling 2014,Best Museum, ActewAGL Trophy Tasmania, Australia.Waterton Botrytis Riesling 2010, Tasmania,Australia.36 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

ENTRIES CRICNHTIAAEENRLSNBLALEETINIRONGNRGAEALOPEN1 JUNE 201610-15 OCT2016P: +61 2 6286 7515 | F: +61 2 6290 1580 | E: [email protected] www.rieslingchallenge.com

Phoenix-Like Revival Gaining Traction38 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

Austrian wine is in on the resurgence in exports over recent years. Thanks to AWMB and Winestate Magazine, I hadthe come back after a the awesome experience of attending the 2015winemaking scandal “Rising like a Phoenix” Austrian Wine Summit. One hundred and twenty journalists, wine critics andsabotaged the industry. sommeliers from around the world were flown in to Vienna and then bussed around the countryside inDAN TRAUCKI two separate groups, one to the north and one to the south. Each group visited several wine growingIN THE early 1980s, Austria was a rising star in the districts over the three days, so as to show thatworld of wine exports, before Australia was even a Austrian wine is, indeed, rising like a phoenix. Thecontender. In 1985, Austria exported nearly 30 million group I was in included Hungary’s number one winelitres of wine, a significant volume in those days, but blogger, a top New York sommelier, a humorousthen, unfortunately for them, after a poor vintage, a Nova Scotian wine critic, along with representativessmall number of unscrupulous “winemakers” added from India, China, Taiwan, Singapore, Netherlands,ethylene glycol in the form of anti-freeze to their Slovakia, UK, the US, Canada (both varieties Englishsweet wines. This led to the infamous Austrian wine and French) and Germany.scandal and Austria’s exports evaporated overnight. The program was very comprehensive - travelling, It took until 2009 (25 years later) for their exports to master classes, tastings and Austrian gourmetrecover to the same volume as prior to the scandal experiences, including learning to cook the classic- an important lesson for Australia - the devastation Viennese schnitzel in the courtyard of a 14th centurya few people can cause to a vibrant and vital export castle. Over the three days there were 473 winesindustry. That’s why I was particularly dismayed on taste.and saddened when Wine Australia (now AGWA– Australian Grape and Wine Authority) ceased Our group explored the wines of these areas:its long-standing practice of testing wines prior to Weinviertel (13,356ha), Kremstal (2243ha), Kamptalexport approval. No amount of audits after the event (3802ha), Traisental (790ha), Wagram (2451ha,can prevent such an issue from occurring, whereas where we walked through a gruner veltliner vineyard),testing before shipping, would. Burgenland (13,840ha) and Neusiedlersee (7649ha). Then finally Steiermark (4240ha), which we didn’t Coincidentally, 2009 was the year that Willi Klinger, visit, but instead tasted their wines at the Austrianthe energetic, effervescent and humorous Austrian Wine Academy (Weinakademie Osterreich), in theWine Marketing Board (AWMB) MD was appointed. lovely town of Rust.Klinger claims (tongue-in-cheek) that it is due to himthat since 2009, the value of Austrian wine exports Sitting for hours on the bus one could not help buthas nearly doubled. They must be doing something notice that the Austrian countryside is magnificent –right to achieve this outstanding result - post GFC. streams and rolling, bright green fields interspersed with little knolls of trees on the hillocks. When we There are a number of factors contributing to this climbed into the hills this order was reversed, with thephoenix-like resurrection. The most crucial being occasional small patch of vegetables or grapevinesthat after the scandal the government put in place popping up in between the forests of trees.some of the toughest wine laws on the planet, whichare strictly enforced. At the same time the AWBM Most of the vineyards in Austria are small andwas founded to promote Austrian wine to the world. strategically positioned for the best micro-climate inIt is funded 50 per cent by wine producers and the the area. For example, along the Danube River thereother 50 per cent by four regional governments. are vineyards on terraces that have been carved outFor a number of years now, the AWMB has been of the steep hills alongside the river. They look soorganising biennial three-day wine summits in May/ steep that you would think that they are impossible toJune, for wine journalists and sommeliers from work. Needless to say all the work in those vineyardsaround the world. Appropriately, the theme for this is done by hand.year’s summit was “Rise like a Phoenix”, whichreflects the rapid rise in popularity of Austrian wines In Austria they have a classification systemover the last few years from the ashes of the scandal. whereby wines are divided into “Klassic”, for those that are under 13 per cent alcohol with a maximum This initiative, combined with the strict laws and the six grams per litre of residual sugar. Typically they arefact that there has been a 25 per cent reduction in released fairly early after vintage and are designedthe number of wine estates through amalgamations to be drunk young and fresh. Those designatedand buy-outs, means that the average Austrian “Reserve”, are bigger wines with more structure,weinkeller, while still small by Australian standards, depth and length than the “Klassic” and that haveis larger today than ever before, and this has led to been matured longer before release. Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 39

While we tasted some good wines made from and zweigelt, which taste like a pinot noir that is not Veltliner an Anthology of Great Wines” tasting, held“classical” grape varieties along with some quite on steroids but has been working out. Another in the magnificent Landtagssaal hall in the Palaisinteresting blends of both classical and native interesting, lighter-style variety was the Austrian- Niederösterreich, in Vienna. After all, as Klingervarieties, the main focus was on the wines made created red variety blauer zweigelt. It is a cross points out, “gruner veltliner is Austria’s signaturefrom the Austrian native grape varieties. Two of between blaufrankisch and St Laurent, created in grape variety”, in the same way that Argentinathe non-native varieties that do deserve a mention 1922 by Dr Fritz Zweigelt. considers malbec to be its signature variety andare riesling (1863ha planted) and sauvignon blanc Australia, shiraz. So it was important to the AWMB(932ha planted). Unlike the rieslings of Germany Of the “classical” red varieties tasted on the trip, the to ensure we got the full perspective on theirwhich often are low in alcohol, off-dry through to main standout was Uibel Reserve Pinot Noir 2010, a “hometown hero”.sweet wines, the Austrian rieslings I tasted were all great pinot from a 7ha vineyard in Weinviertel.around 12.5 to 14.0 per cent alcohol, crisp and dry. The tasting consisted of 26 flights of gruner veltlinerSome do have a tad of residual sugar to soften the Near the fascinating Lake Neusiedl (a huge rain (GV) divided into four sections - “young and elegant”,acidity, but they were dry on the palate and were “powerful reserve wines”, “mature gruner veltliner”very refined wines that lingered beautifully on the They were less and finally the “innovative and wild”. One sat at afinish, especially those from the Kremstal region. in-your-face than table in this magnificent hall and held up a card toThe “Reserve” wines were certainly more serious the Kiwi or Aussie tell the army of wine pourers which flight of wines youand age-worthy. wines, with softer wanted to taste. The first three flights were 2014 GV aromas and less from around the country, the next three were 2013 I admit that I am not a big fan of sauvignon GV, the next four were 2012 GV and so on back toblanc, with it’s over-the-top aromas and battery acid flavours, 2005. Then things got really interesting with flightacid sharpness on the palate, but I must say I was leading to a lovely, numbers 19 and 20 having GV going back as farquite impressed by the steiermark (styria) ones that as 1983. The Schlossweingut Malteser Ritterordenwe tried at the Wine Academy. They were less in- alluring finish. 1983 was amazing, with a lovely golden colour,your-face than the Kiwi or Aussie wines, with softer perfumed aroma with just a hint of mustiness andaromas and less acid flavours, leading to a lovely, water lake only a metre deep), we tasted a range heaps of luscious, complex flavours that lingered onalluring finish. of Austria’s famous sweet wines in ascending order the palate for ages. A real treat for somebody like me of sweetness. The styles were spatlese, auslese, who likes aged, matured wines. The “innovative and The big daddy of Austrian white wines, of course is beerenauslese, trockenbeerenauslese and icewine, wild” bracket consisted of organic and biodynamicgruner veltliner which, with over 13,500ha planted, the granddaddy of them all. There were also a couple GV, along with one or two downright funky, off-the-accounts for 29.44 per cent of total vine area in of schilfwein (ripe grapes are picked and left to dry planet wines.Austria. This is an amazingly consistent grape variety. on shelves for four to six months, to concentrate theWhile there were some differences in character in the sugars and flavours through dehydration, before the Just to cap the visit off there was a party at thewines from the different areas and micro-climates wine is made). For me, the choice was the Kracher Palais Schonburg to celebrate the 200th anniversarywhere the grapes were grown, the main differences 2012 Grand Cuvee #6, a blend of chardonnay and of the Congress of Vienna in 1815 (when Austriato me seemed to be the style in which the winemaker welschreisling, with 216.8 grams per litre of residual became a republic) and another 72 wines availablemakes the wine that is a Klassic or Reserve style. sugar, that is 20 per cent natural sugar – so sweet to taste.Overall, gruner veltliner is a very consistent variety and yet it doesn’t cloy, and finishes reasonablythat produces excellent wines. crisply on the palate. This was without doubt the very best wine event I have been involved with. The other important native white we first encountered This tasting included another first for me, anin Wagram was roter veltliner - it is from the veltliner Austrian furmint - Wenzel 2013 Furmint. It had lovely Along the way we met a number of passionate andfamily but is not a direct relative of gruner veltliner. herbal aromas, a mouthful of flavour and a great, dedicated winemakers who will ensure the continuedThere used to be considerably more acreage of this crisp, lingering finish. rise of Austrian wines well into the future. Try Austrianvariety until the 1980s when it started to be replaced wines as and when you get the chance - a few areby the easier to grow gruner veltliner, which isn’t as On the final morning we went to the wine academy available in-store in Australia. In addition, try any onesensitive to frosts. However, since 2009 it has been - Wienakademie Osterreich - the largest wine of the Aussie-made gruner veltliner or blaufränkisch,making somewhat of a comeback, especially in education academy in Europe. Here we tasted our such as those from Hahndorf Hill Winery in theWagram, where it is considered as “the white wine way through 10 representative wines from the region Adelaide Hills.diva” of the area – as it is hard to grow successfully of Steiermark (Styria). Most of these wines werebut rewarding in the glass, with lovely aromatics and made from the classical varieties such as sauvignon Austrian wine has truly “Risen like a Phoenix”. Theygreater depth and concentration, especially in the blanc and chardonnay. are doing a stunning job with their native varietals“Reserve” wines. Other interesting dry whites we and a great job with many of the classical varieties.tasted included gelber muskateller (muscat) and The highlight of the trip for me was the “Gruner Due to Austria’s geographical location, the wines aregelber muskateller (pinot blanc). naturally a bit lighter in style than what Australians are accustomed to drinking, but they are elegant, stylish In the native red varietals, the first wine style we and ever so yummy. If you want to broaden yourcame across was schilcher wine, a much underrated wine drinking horizons have “a crack” at Austrianrosé wine made from the blauer wildbacher, as wine, especially the native varieties with the hard toboth still and sparkling wines. The most popular pronounce names.and famous of the native reds are blaufrankisch Prost!40 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR:AUSTRALIA & NEW take out a subscription and save! Australia 7 issues (1yr) $A69 (includes $6.27 GST) ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 14 issues (2yrs) $A128 (includes $11.64 GST) Price include GST, postage and handling. New Zealand Binders SUBSCRIBE TO Price includes Airmail. Australian residents only OUR COMPLETE Please mark X one option: Your attractive binder easily holds 7 issues - handy PACKAGE 7 issues (1 year) $A79 for quick reference! 14 issues (2 years) $A150 This includes hard-copy and digital versions Please mark X one option: plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web Asia, Pacific 1 Binder $A19.80 Price includes Airmail. Please mark X: site and reviews. Available only through 2 Binders $A33 online order, www.winestate.com.au 7 issues (1 year) $A120 3 Binders $A49.50 Elsewhere (includes GST) Price includes Airmail. Please mark X: Prices available for 7 issues (1 year) $A130 overseas on application. Mr / Mrs / Miss State Country Address Phone ( ) Suburb Post Code E-mail Your subscription will start from the next issue. I enclose my cheque for $ payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: Mastercard Visa Name on card: Signature Expires / Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Recipient’s Name Address Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) Please send a gift card to Me Recipient Also fill in your details in the section above.

AWARDS PRESENTATION 2015 1. 4. 3.2. 5. 6. 1. Vintec Pinot Noir Trophy winners Michael Lee, Foxeys Hangout; Stu Evans, Vintec & Tony Lee, Foxeys Hangout. 2. Kym Milne, Australian Winemaker of the Year. 3. Adelaide Convention Centre trophy representative Hans Vander Hoeven presenting the Riesling Trophy to the equal winners, Andrew Michael, Koonowla Wines & Neil Paulett, Paulett Wines pictured with Lara Simic, Managing Editor, Winestate Magazine. 4. APT Sparkling Trophy winner, Greg Gallagher of Gallagher Wines. 5. Orora Sweet White Trophy winners Richelle Colliev & Paul Bourgeois from Spy Valley.42 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

7. 10.8. 9. 11.6. Sir George Fistonich; Nick Picone, New Zealand Winemaker of the Year and Peter Jackson, Winestate Magazine. Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 437. Ian Henderson, Hamburg Sud presenting the Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy to Peter Bird from Casella Family Wines.8. Get Wines Direct Semillon Trophy winners Christine & Graeme Scott from James Estate.9. Luigi Bormioli Alternative White Trophy winners Neville & Vanessa Bagot from Barringwood Estate.10. Cotter House Sauvignon Blanc Trophy winners Avram Dietch & Jeff Fyfe of Yealands Estate.11. Aldi Stores Best Value Wine Under $20 Trophy winner Andrew Michael of Koonowla Wines & Jason Bowyer from Aldi Stores.

12. 15. 13. 16. 14.12. Australian Winery of the Year Bird in Hand team.13. The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry Pinot Gris Trophy winners Ben Longhurst, Vanessa Robson, Myran Hagenfeldt, Sarah-Kate Dineen & Edward Hurrell from Maude Wines.14. Olivia Barrie & Peter Bird from Casella Family Wines with Wolf Blass & Peter Simic from Winestate Magazine pictured with the Runner-up Wine of the Year Trophy.15. Sir George Fistonich, Villa Maria New Zealand Winery of the Year.16. Damian Borg from APT with Wolf Blass.

2015 Category Winners SPARKLING Gallagher Blanc De Blanc Canberra District Chardonnay 2009 PINOT GRIS Maude Central Otago Pinot Gris 2015 SAUVIGNON BLANC17. Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ALTERNATIVE WHITES Barringwood Tasmania Schönburger 2014 RIESLING Equal winners: Koonowla The Ringmaster Clare Valley 20. Riesling 2015 Pauletts Aged Release Polish Hill River Clare Valley Riesling 2010 CHARDONNAY Bird in Hand Nest Egg Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2012 SEMILLON James Estate Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 PINOT NOIR Foxeys Hangout Kentucky Road 777 Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2014 ALTERNATIVE REDS Pepperjack Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 201318. CABERNET SAUVIGNON Casella 1919 Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 SHIRAZ Saltram No. 1 Shiraz 2010 SWEET WHITE Spy Valley Iced Sauvignon Blanc (375 mL) 2014 FORTIFIED 21. Baileys Founder Series Classic Muscat NV BEST VALUE WINE OF THE YEAR UNDER $20 Koonowla The Ringmaster Clare Valley Riesling 2015 RUNNER-UP WINE OF THE YEAR Casella 1919 Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 WINE OF THE YEAR Bird in Hand Nest Egg Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 201219.17. Brand South Australia Alternative Red Trophy representative Sarah Walsh with Shavaughn Wells accepting the trophy on behalf of Pepperjack.18. Bang Packaging Chardonnay Trophy winner Kym Milne from Bird in Hand and John Papiccio from Bang Packaging.19. Bernard Hickin giving the Chairman’s address.20. DW Fox Tucker Fortified Trophy representative Sandy Donaldson and James Godfrey from Baileys Wines.21. Pulpit Cellars Shiraz Trophy representative Michael Raggatt with winner Shavaughn Wells from Saltram Wine Estate.

FRENCH TOUR 2015THE TOUR ROUNDUPHere is a pictorial summary of the recent Winestate Wine Tour of France 2015. It proved to be anamazing experience for the wine lovers on the tour and here we share the best moments with you.For a full written summary please go to www.winestate.com.au.1 CHAMPAGNE DEUTZ4 Superb hosted tasting in the family cellar with excellent matched wines!SEPT CHAMPAGNE CHARPENTIER Nice line-up. Lovely tasting!15SEPT DOMAINE CANARD DUCHENE CHAMPAGNE THIENOT Hosted “workers’ lunch” in boardroom. Great wines. Excellent aged vintage Champagnes.46 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

1 CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER6S Historic Cellar with lovely hosted lunch and matching wines.EPT1 MAISON LOUIS LATOUR (ALOXE CORTON) DOMAINE FAIVELEY WINESTATE MICHELIN CELEBRATION DINNER7 LE PRE AUX CLERCS -S Special visit. Exclusive. Impressive! Excellent hospitality & tasting.E Superb line-up of Chablis, Burgundies & sauternes. DRC plusP other Grand Crus.T 1 DOMAINE ROUGEOT 8 S Great family farmyard visit. Personal & special! E P T1 CHAPOUTIER No idea who this is!9 A classic name and special generous tasting.SEPT DELAS FRERE Very professional. Great line-up of wines. Annual 2016 W I N E S TAT E 47

2 DOMAINE FONT DE MICHELLE 2 WINESTATE MICHELIN CELEBRATION DINNER- LE POULPE0 1S Aussie owner. Friendly & superb tasting. S Waterfront view escape with local wines.E EP PT T2 22 3SE CHATEAU LES CARRASSES S CHATEAU CLIMENSP ET Amazing line-up of group wines from numerous Chateaux. P Lovely visit to historic Chateau. T Another amazing Michelin dinner with great food matched by great wines including Bordeaux, Chateau Haut Batailley Grand Cru Pauillac 1988, and Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac 1990.WINESTATE MICHELIN CELEBRATION DINNER LE ST JAMES BOULIAC2 DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU CHATEAU DU TERTRE4S Owner Bruno Borie (left) and Jacques Lurton (right) at this landmark Chateau. Special tasting with retired Another beautiful Bordeaux Chateau for a tasting experience.EP chief winemaker.T48 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016

The Hill of Corton, Burgundy UNESCO World Heritage Opposite Page Left: TBAWWW.CLOSCACHET.COM.AU

Over lunch at the Relais de Margauxwe were privileged to have a specialtasting of wines from the Lurton family vineyards introduced by Jacques Lurton, himself. Wineries featured included Chateaux Couhins- Lurton,La Louviere, Desmirail, Durfort-Vivens and Brane-Cantenac. Masterclass hosted lunch by Jacques Lurton. BRANE CANTENAC 2nd Growth visit with excellent tasting.2 25 6 SS CHATEAU LYNCH BAGES CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD E VIEUX CERTANE PP Excellent historic winery visit & tasting. Classic1st Growth visit & tasting. T Great day in Pomerol with Alexander Thienport!TCHATEAU LE PIN 2 WINESTATE MICHELIN CELEBRATION DINNER 7 - LA GRAND‘VIGNEVery unique & special tasting experience. S Great Michelin finish. E P T CHATEAU SMITH HAUTE LAFITTE Showcase winery visit.Our grateful thanks to the many winery hosts who made this WINERY & RESTAURANTS www.closcachet.com.au/producer/ www.brane-cantenac.com/superb trip possible; both at the beginning with administration www.champagne-charpentier.com/en/ domaine-rougeot/ www.delas.com www.lynchbages.comand public relations persons involved and at the end, where champagnes/traditionnal www.chapoutier.com www.chateau-mouton-rothschild.com/guides (including some special contacts from owners and www.champagne-deutz.com/en www.font-de-michelle.com www.vieuxchateaucertan.comwinemakers) showed us their cherished establishments and www.canard-duchene.fr/ www.lepoulpe-marseille.com/ www.thewinecellarinsider.com/shared with us their special wines. On behalf of the tour www.thienot.com/en/ www.lescarrasses.com bordeaux-wine-producerprofiles/group, Travelrite and Winestate I can pass on one important www.champagne-drappier.com www.chateau-climens.fr/en/ bordeaux/pomerol/le-pin/response “magnifique.” www.louislatour.com/en www.saintjames-bouliac.com www.smith-haut-lafitte.com/en/ www.bourgognes-faiveley.com www.chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/ www.sources-caudalie.com/en/ www.jeanpierrebilloux.com chateaudutertre.fr/ restaurantssources-de-caudalie50 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2016