Winestate Magazine Annual 2010

VINEYARDS Est 1935 BAROSSA VALLEY Estate Label The Estate Label style selects fruit from our new and old vineyards to capture the generous Barossa varietal flavours Ready to enjoy on release. Reserve Label Distinct, often old vine and single vineyard fruit, Hand made, Basket pressed, selected French oak barrels and rewarding with time in the cellar. New Trade & Export Enquiries 100% Barossa Contact James Ph: 0407 390 788 Family owned and operated Quality Assured vineyards NSW contact Roger Ph:0411 431 908VIC contact Alepate Taylor Ph: 03 9487 2599 First planted 1935 5 Star Winery (Halliday 08)www.rosenvale.com.au

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 south australiaTintara McLaren Vale Ben Potts Lenny’s Yalumba The Menzies Fernhill Estate shiraz blendsCabernet Sauvignon Block Langhorne Creek Coonawarra Adelaide Hills Cabernet2006 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2005 HHHH Annie’s Lane CopperSuperb, deep red cabernet 2005 HHHH1/2 2006 HHHH1/2 Generous, lifted, ripe Trail Clare Valley Shirazwith wonderful varietal Oaky/mocha style with good Real classic, with big, blackberry aromas and Grenache Mourvedrecharacters. Sweet level of juicy blackcurrant bold colour and intense good concentration of black 2004 HHHHHblackcurrants and black fruit showing a minty edge. hit of cassis and berry fruit flavours and toasty oak It has, according to oneberries on the nose with Some ‘slippery’ tannins. fruit aromas. Huge palate on a super-drying, tannic judge, “decadent ferala eucalypt edge. Similar Lovely seamlessly integrated brimming over with flavour palate. $18 aromas!” Rich and velvetycharacters on the weighty, flavours linger long after the intensity and supported by Lake Breeze Langhorne in the mouth and stillwell-structured palate. $27 wine has gone. $32 long, firm tannins. $46.95 Creek Cabernet showing fresh mulberry andMorgan Simpson Yalumba The Cigar Sauvignon 2006 HHHH plum-like fruit with a violetRow 42 McLaren Vale Morgan Simpson Coonawarra Distinct mulberry characters lift. Concentrated, integratedCabernet Sauvignon Row 42 McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon with a delightful floral lift and “yummy”. $36.992005 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHHH1/2 - smells of violets. Soft and Claymore WinesSlightly unusual style 2004 HHHH1/2 Big wine showing deep, smooth in the mouth and Walk on the Wild Side- extraordinarily elegant and Dense chocolaty nose vibrant hues. Inky and brimming over with oaky Clare Valley Shirazyet luscious, with big hit of with a minty edge. Lovely licorice-like and a palate that flavours. $22 Viognier 2007 HHHH1/2blackcurrant fruit showing length and strength of berry, has bold, up-front, classic Geoff Merrill Aromas slightly on the florala leafy/minty edge. Very plum and olive flavours. chocolaty cabernet flavours. Reserve McLaren Vale side, with a hint of apricotsflavoursome and seamlessly Extraordinarily good Needs more time. $24.95 Coonawarra Cabernet from the viognier. Rich fruitbalanced. $18 drinking! $18 Mawson’s Wrattonbully Sauvignon 2002 HHHH flavours and velvety tannins Yelland & Papps Cabernet Sauvignon Exquisite dinner wine that’s fill the mouth. Great palatePearson Vineyards Barossa Valley 2006 HHHH a seamless balance of length with an apricotClare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Big, bold cabernet rich with leafy, minty, blackcurrant, finale! $18 CDCabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHHH1/2 plums and blackberries chocolate and coffee-like Rosenvale Vineyards2006 HHHH1/2 Lovely deep red wine with a good dash of spice characters. Has it all. $40 Barossa Valley Shiraz“Awesome colour,” declared that smells of raspberries and licorice. Has length and Cabernet Sauvignonone judge. Very intense with traces of perfumed structure and long tannins in 2005 HHHH1/2concentration of dried oak. Palate bursting with support. $15.95 Real classic with its big,fruit aromas with dense ripe berry fruit flavours Wynns Coonawarra complex, oaky nose that’starry/charry flavours, big, supported by great oak and Estate John Riddoch nicely lifted with darkmouthfilling, velvety tannins firm tannins. $30 Cabernet Sauvignon berries. The palate is aand fleshy varietal fruit. $21 Sevenhill Inigo 2006 HHHH beautiful blend of flavours Clare Valley Lovely fruity complexity with the oak on top. Has Cabernet Sauvignon on the nose and a full- concentration, weight and 2006 HHHH1/2 bodied palate with rich vitality. $28 Gorgeous wine that’s full of concentration of flavours life and has beautiful aromas and ample tannins. Just Chain of Ponds Te-Aro Estate of cassis and cigar boxes. needs a little more time in The Amadeus Adelaide Jokers Grin Barossa Elegant palate - ageing the cellar. $75.99 Hills Cabernet Valley Shiraz Cabernet gracefully with a perfect Vincognita Nangkita Sauvignon 2005 HHHH 2006 HHHH balance between black fruits Vineyards Fleurieu Big, ripe rhubarb and black Layered, complex and and grainy tannins. $19 CD Cabernet Sauvignon cherry nose and grippy, brooding style. Ripe, porty Leasingham Wines 2006 HHHH tannic palate overlaid with aromas lead to wonderfully Classic Clare Heavily toasted bouquet excellent varietal fruit and soft, velvety tannins on a Clare Valley Cabernet - quite meaty. Palate just a hint of vanillin oak. $33 palate that has amazing 2005 HHHH1/2 lovely and long and warm flavour length. $16 Dark and brooding and with fleshy fruit flavours. smelling of blackcurrants Enchanting wine that Yalumba Barossa Shiraz with an earthy edge. Still will improve further with Viognier 2006 HHHH has plenty of raspberry fruit cellaring. $19.50 Bright and cheery wine freshness on the palate, Chateau Reynella – would be great with lamb! with lovely length of grainy Basket Pressed Lovely lifted aromas and tannins. $57 McLaren Vale Cabernet soft, subtle flavours that are Sauvignon 2006 HHHH a perfect balance between Clean, clear and bright and fruit and oak. $19.95 showing real McLaren Vale cabernet characters. Plum Katnook Estate and leather on the nose and Odyssey Coonawarra blackcurrants and mint on Cabernet Sauvignon the earthy palate. $54 2005 HHHH Cedary mocha nose with a slight eucalypt edge. Aged, sweet, menthol fruit palate with mouth-puckering tannins and warming alcohol. $95102 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 south australiaCreed Two Brothers shirazBarossa Shiraz Viognier 2008/20072005 HHHHHuge monster of a winewith lots of aged, portycharacters, plenty of oak andloads of tannins. Faint edgeof spicy-like characters. $26Stone Coast Wines Vincognita Madeleines Vincognita Madeleines J & J Vineyards10 Ton Stone NSX Nangkita Willunga Single McLaren Vale ShirazWrattonbully Shiraz Southern Fleurieu Vineyard McLaren Vale 2008 HHHH1/2Cabernet 2004 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Earthy/chocolaty styleOld-fashioned style with Gorgeous malty/dark Personable big wine of shiraz with excellentcedary oak aromas and plum chocolate aromas leap out with massive oak on the oak layered with freshand blackcurrant flavours of the glass and grab you by nose and palate but has varietal fruit and showingwith vanilla and toasted the throat! Big, weighty fruit plums and blackberries slight rhubarb and licoricecoconut characters coming flavours well matched by lurking underneath. Syrupy nuances. Lifted nose andfrom the oak. $14.95 massive oak and supported mouthfeel and intensity of creamy palate. $19.99 by tight acidity. $48 tannins. $19.50 Chapel Hill The Vicar McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHHH Lovely impact of sweet, perfumed fruit aromas with licorice-like density. Opulent and savoury palate offering seamlessly balanced, mouthfilling, flavours with good tannic backbone. $60Climate controlled, individually locked cellars.Prices from $27.60 per annum.Over a decade of experience.Full wine management service available.Worldwide distribution to your door.Current clients spanning 20 nations. Contact us with your requirements or to find out more Lower Hermitage Road, Houghton, South Australia 5131 phone: +61 8 8380 5657 fax: +61 8 8380 5591 e-mail: [email protected] ABN 51 008 209 701 Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 103

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 south australiaThorn-Clarke Kalleske Greenock Tapestry BG&V Bakers Penfolds Bin 128 Chateau ReynellaShotfire Barossa Shiraz Barossa Valley Shiraz Gully & Vignerons Coonawarra Shiraz Basket Pressed2007 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHH McLaren Vale ShirazBig, rich, oaky wine made in Great varietal expression 2007 HHHH Spicy and youthful, 2006 HHHH1/2the old-school style. “Needs and freshness. Dense, dark Smoky/savoury bouquet with a buttery vanilla nose. Overall a savoury nose butbuffalo,” mused one judge! and meaty, with excellent with a hint of licorice. Tight Some very seductive long there’s some ChristmasHessian oak and spice on oak to balance the peppery and lean in the mouth, with and lingering licorice and cake fruit character therethe nose and an intensely fruit, and has a lovely long, red berry flavours and chalky spice flavours and grippy too. Big, full-flavoured palateflavoured fleshy and tannic silky-smooth finish. $38 tannin backbone. $20 tannic persistence. Needs with lovely long tanninspalate. $20 CD Penna Lane Wines Fox Creek time. $33.99 and everything in seamlessClaymore Wines Clare Valley Shiraz Red Baron McLaren balance. $54Dark Side of the Moon 2007 HHHH Vale Shiraz 2008 HHHH shiraz 2006Clare Valley Shiraz Fresh red fruit nose Simple mulberry nose with2007 HHHH1/2 with beautiful spearmint some spicy notes. Big, rich Wolf Blass Gold LabelLovely lift of dried apricot- characters and an inky palate with lifted fresh fruit Barossa Shirazlike characters on the nose. concentration of flavours and mouthwatering acidity. 2006 HHHHHQuite tannic in the mouth, underscored with tight, Very nicely rounded for a Tight, austere style.with good concentration of fresh acidity. $24 young wine. $17.50 Wonderful colour. Slightlyripe fruit flavours perfectly La Curio Reserve inky on the nose andintegrated with some well- McLaren Vale Shiraz followed by a stylish andhandled oak. $25 CD 2007 HHHH elegant palate. Excellent Berry freshness to the nose, raspberry/oak balance with with some dusty mahogany- perfect ripeness and tannic like oak characters. Compact backbone. $24 palate with lots of toasty oak and plenty of character. $31 Wolf Blass Grey Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHH Mixture of crushed ant/ boysenberry-like aromas and good persistence of sweet fruit and fine-grained oak flavours. Will age gracefully. $35Lindemans Bin 50 Kirrihill Clare Valley Fox Creek Reserve Grant Burge Filsell Koonara Ezra’s GiftShiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHH McLaren Vale Old Vine Barossa Shiraz Coonawarra ShirazSimple plum nose - ripe Pungent earthy/cassis Shiraz 2007 HHHH 2006 HHHHH 2006 HHHH1/2and fresh. Palate soft and aromas with a heavy, heady, Slightly developed toasty “A great drop,” said one Vibrant, youthful colourweighty and full of fresh spicy background. Great bacon bouquet. Palate bright judge. Christmas cake and brooding eucalypt andplum flavours, a touch palate - vibrant, inky and with fresh varietal fruit and spices and berries shout cherry nose. Dense andof licorice, ripe, leathery fleshy, with subtle oak and has a good impact of oak. from this fabulous nose. flavoursome palate with richtannins and subtle oak. Very fine tannins. $14 Textured and rich. $70 Fresh and lively palate filled berry fruits, firm, invitingstylish. $8.99 with ripe fruits, firm tannins tannins and great balanceHentley Farm Morambro Creek and well-balanced oak. $35 and structure. $24Fools Bay Dusty’s Padthaway Shiraz Saltram Mamre Schiller VineyardsDesire Barossa Valley 2007 HHHH Brook Barossa Shiraz Barossa ShirazShiraz 2007 HHHH Big, rich melange of spicy/ 2006 HHHHH 2006 HHHH1/2Big and rich and slightly hessian/dark fruit aromas Excellent length and Great rich red colour. Lovelyfunky and feral. Great which are echoed on the freshness. Very oaky nose new-age-style shiraz sportingpeppery/licorice nose nicely balanced palate with with huge crushed ant-like an earthy, fungal andand fine, fleshy palate lift. Ripe, fleshy and tannic funky nose and long, livelywith excellent flavour in the mouth. Beautiful and midweight redcurrant palate.concentration, firm acid and vibrant style with everything Really fabulous wine. $20oak balance. $19 in perfect balance. $29.99 Leasingham WinesSaltram Pepperjack Bin 61 Clare ValleyBarossa Shiraz Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/22007 HHHH Savoury beefy/Bonox-likeRipe, rich and slightly aromas and a very fine, tightover-extracted style - a palate with plump, mulberry-touch porty and hot but a like fruit showing a slightgreat wine nevertheless. leafy character. ElegantAttractive stewed fruit tannins and good level ofaromas and sweet fruit balancing oak. $26flavours. $24.99 hints of eucalypt. One for the cellar! 5+ $22.95104 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 south australiaTintara McLaren Vale Barossa Valley Estate Westlake Albert’s BlockShiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 E Minor Barossa Valley Barossa Valley ShirazA certain lifted fragrance Shiraz 2006 HHHH 2006 HHHHto the complex berry/choc Deep, dark and brooding Big, rich, brooding portymalt nose. Palate rich and nose - lots of plums. Very nose with spices and whitebeautifully textured with rich palate - great length and pepper. Warming alcohol onnicely layered flavours of depth, with firm tannic spine. the palate, balanced by fruitvarietal fruit and sweet oak. Quite fresh. “A lovely drink,” sweetness with good levelsFirm tannic spine. $27 confirmed one judge. $15 of oak. Long finish. $28Morambro CreekPadthaway Shiraz Henry’s Drive Shingleback McLaren Grant Burge Yelland & Papps2006 HHHH Reserve Padthaway Vale Shiraz 2006 HHHH Miamba Barossa Greenock Barossa ValleySoft, full-bodied wine with a Shiraz 2006 HHHH Savoury nose with some Shiraz 2006 HHHH Shiraz 2006 HHHHcomplexity of spicy/peppery Big, dense, rich shiraz with earthiness and a spicy lift, The fruit is ripe, dark and Deep, meaty, gamey shirazfruit well supported by a big plenty of ripe plum and which leads into a hot, lifted, the oak ripe, rich with ripe plums on the noseoak backbone and some blackberry fruit aromas and super-generous, beautifully and opulent and tending to and sweet plums peekinglong, juicy tannins. $22.95 flavours with subtle use of textured chocolaty, fruity dominate - for now. Good through on the palate andAramis Vineyards The oak and a nice lingering, and spicy palate. $24.95 palate weight. Quite warm. what one judge described asGovernor McLaren Vale spicy finish. $55 The Old Faithful Cafe Solid tannic backbone. $24.50 “sensible extract levels”. $30Syrah 2006 HHHH Kimbolton Langhorne Block McLaren ValeToasty/nutty aromas over Creek Shiraz Shiraz 2006 HHHH Mojo by RockBare VineCrest Eighthchunky briary fruit. Fat, 2006 HHHH Dark berry aromas mingle Barossa Valley Generationsweet fruit and massive oak Complex, fleshy, chocolate/ with some subtle oak and Shiraz 2006 HHHH Barossa Valleyintegrate on the soft and licorice bouquet and nicely licorice-like complexity. Spicy aromas with a Shiraz 2006 HHHHvery supple palate. $55 textured palate with tight Tight, textured and tasty sprinkling of crushed ant-like Another popular, old- fruit layered with oak tannins. palate with soft tannins in characters. Palate is soft and fashioned, classic style Lovely mouthfeel. $20 support. $75 full of vibrant fruit perfectly of shiraz. Very oaky nose balanced by well-handled oak. with a dash of spice. Long, Still remarkably fresh. $17 lingering palate that’s soft and ageing gracefully but still has freshness. $22 wines of distinction “Peter, what’s the best wine you’ve ever made?” AND THE TRUE INNOVATOR’S ANSWER:- ‘I HAVEN’T MADE MY BEST WINE YET?” DISTRIBUTORS Melbourne - Westwood Wine Agencies Ph: 03 9686 9125 Tasmania - David Johnstone & Associates Ph: 03 6234 9999 Sydney - Australian Partners in Wine Ph: 02 96015896 To see full list of international distributors go to www.denniswines.com.au Cellar DoorKangarilla Road, McLaren Vale, follow the signs from Town Square. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Sat, Sun and Public Holidays 12noon-5pmphone (08) 8323 8665 fax (08) 8323 9121 email [email protected] website & orders www.denniswines.com.au Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 105

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 south australiaTe-Aro Estate Wolf Blass Platinum SaltramsThe Charred Door Label Barossa Shiraz Mr Pickwick ParticularBarossa Valley 2005 HHHHH Tawny NV HHHH1/2Shiraz 2006 HHHH Very big and yet very Quite sweet on the nose,Soft, woody bouquet - quite vibrant wine with intense, with very old, velvety oakdeep and dark. In the mouth lifted balance of plums and to balance. Lovely rich,it’s warm, ripe and rich, with mulberries on the nose and ripe rancio characters onexcellent spicy flavours and great freshness of long, the palate with beautifullya nice tight acid spine to spicy fruit flavours on the balanced sweetness. $69.99support. $25 palate. $180 Bethany Steinbruch Barossa RieslingPeter Lehmann Saltram The Eighth Pelican’s Landing Nardone Baker 2007 HHHH1/2The Futures Barossa Maker Barossa Shiraz Maritime Wines The The Wara Manta Fresh, lifted, citrus bouquetShiraz 2006 HHHH 2004 HHHHH Serpentine Hindmarsh Reserve Langhorne with nice toastiness startingBig, big wine. Has big fruit Huge deep, dark, velvety Island Shiraz 2005 HHHH Creek McLaren Vale to develop. Quite a sweetmatched by a big, oaky wine with a delightful Leathery and meaty Shiraz 2001 HHHH palate but has a good levelspine with full-on, spicy fruit perfumed lift to the nose characters on the nose Ethereal leathery aged of balancing acidity. A lovelyaromas and firm and fleshy and masses of dense, ripe - very complex - followed by notes threaded through the style. No obvious botrytis. $14fruit/oak palate that is still fruit and vanillin oak filling massive spicy oak impact on fruit cake nose. Complex Skillogalee Clareamazingly fresh. $30 the weighty palate. Still the intensely flavoured palate. palate with tight layers of Valley Late Picked lovely and fresh for a four- Great overall balance. $15 brambly fruit/oak flavours. Riesling 2005 HHHHshiraz 2005 & older year-old. $199.99 Rosemount “A nice drink!” $78 Sweet wine but not at all Hahn Barossa Balmoral McLaren Vale Westlake Vineyards cloying. Tropical/quince-likeRosenvale Vineyards Vineyards Catharina Syrah 2004 HHHH 717 Convicts The characters uplifted withReserve Barossa Valley Barossa Valley Shiraz Nicely structured wine Warden Barossa Valley excellent level of acidityShiraz 2005 HHHHH 2005 HHHH1/2 with plenty of complexity Shiraz 2005 HHHH and toasty/apricot kernelDeep, tight nose, yet with A stack of oak dominates and attractive aged notes. Good red fruit freshness complexity. $17.50 CDintense, fresh, spicy aromas. the nose but there are Brimming over with dried on the nose, with a nice Penfolds KoonungaRipe palate - firm, fresh and plenty of dark, ripe berries coriander, dark chocolate and spicy, perfumed lift. Stylish, Hill Autumn Rieslinglong, with dark, inky fruit too. Beautiful palate filled leathery characters. $67.99 flavoursome palate with 2008 HHHH- and matched by smart oak. with wonderful spice and Pauletts Andreas good oak balance and a Lovely lifted nose - smells“A great wine,” enthused fruit character. Firm and still Clare Valley Shiraz long, lingering finish. $50 of sweet apricots and citrusone judge. $40 fresh. $34 2005 HHHH peel. Palate has firm acidSaltram No. 1 Barossa Hartz Barn Wines Dark purple wine with sweet white & fortified botrytis characters andShiraz 2005 HHHHH General Store Barossa gorgeous hit of cedar and gentle sweetness, with aBeautifully expressive, Shiraz 2005 HHHH1/2 spicy fruit aromas, and a Heggies Vineyard Eden drying finish. $17.99well-made wine. The nose Still a very fresh, youthful palate brimming over with Valley Botrytis Riesling Schild Estate Barossahas great concentration of and lively, fruit-driven wine. intense fresh cherry, chocolate 2007 (375ml) HHHHH Frontignac 2008 HHHHcrushed ant-like characters. “So varietally pure,” said and vanilla flavours. $45 Wonderful sweet botrytis “A lovely fronti,” said oneFresh, vibrant palate with one judge. Great length of Barossa Valley Estate intensity on the nose judge. “Would suit manylovely balance between the shiraz fruit flavours well E & E Black Pepper - smells of honey and tastes.” Good varietalfruit and oak. $74.99 matched by vanillin oak. $30 Barossa Valley Shiraz marmalade. Palate clean as expression and pleasing acid Annie’s Lane Copper 2005 HHHH a whistle, with mouthfilling to sugar balance with some Trail Clare Valley Shiraz Intense dark chocolaty/ sweetness. Great example attractive phenolics. $14 2005 HHHH1/2 minty/menthol style of of style. Really beautiful Yalumba Hand Picked Lovely wine with, as one shiraz. Amazing varietal wine. $26.95 Wrattonbully Botrytis judge suggested, “plenty definition on the palate; Viognier 2008 of ammunition to keep you quite ripe, with firm, grippy (375ml) HHHH excited”. Lifted, spicy nose tannins. Still has fruit Pretty, lifted apricot nose and delicious flavour profile freshness. $90 - very perfumed and with with velvety tannins and Elderton Command deliciously intense, yet fresh acidity. $53.99 Single Vineyard Barossa delicate, flavours of honey Lake Breeze Shiraz 2005 HHHH and jasmine with a sweet Winemaker’s Selection Big, rich vanilla and spice finish and some cleansing Langhorne Creek Shiraz aromas with a hot mouthful acidity. $26 2005 HHHH1/2 of spicy fruit-cake flavours. Charming, vibrant wine “Very typical of the region,” perfect for drinking now. noted one judge. “Well Plums, cassis and cloves on done,” he added. $85 the nose and cassis, spice and mulberries on the palate. Acid still bright and tight. Lots of life in it yet. $40106 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

James & Lachlan Allen family owners, Barristers Block Wines. Discover the vision. Feel the passion and determination of the family Cellar door sales and tastings, Thursday to behind the label. Learn of their battle (and Sunday and public holidays. ultimately triumph) to share world class, estate 11am - 5pm. 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, grown wine. Barristers Block premium wines, Woodside, South Australia. Discover the vision. Ph: 08 8389 7706 barristersblock.com.auBBW30

Balgownie Estate view from the Mecure Resort and Spa. victoria THE BEST WINES OF 2009 CONTENTS Includes: Other White Varietals & Blends, Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Other Red Varietals & Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends, Shiraz Blends, Shiraz, Sweet White & Fortified.

BURNING QUESTIONS The Victorian year in review, by Jeni PortIT’S BEEN a big year in wine in Victoria - and not all for the right reasons. Mitchelton Wines both turned 40. The two wineries have walked different paths The worst natural disaster in Australian history, the February 7 bushfires, all their lives and, as they move into middle age, little has changed. Taltarni in ravaged the state, hitting communities hard across six major wine producing the Pyrenees was created by a Frenchman with financing from an Americanregions and beyond. Hundreds of hectares of vineyards were burnt, livelihoods businessman and has often been viewed as a Gallic outpost in Australia,lost and, in a few tragic cases, lives of wine industry people were lost too. making wines with a French sensibility. A Frenchman has always featured in the winemaking; these days it’s Loic le Calvez, who is also chief operating officer. Vintage this year for some producers took place under a pall of Mitchelton in the Nagambie Lakes was created by a Melbourne businessmansmoke, giving rise to associated problems with smoke taint in ’09 wines. and with long-time winemaker Don Lewis helped redefine the typical AussieSometimes those who survived the bushfires then suffered the indignity red powered by a taste of the soil and the sun. Young winemaker Ben Hainesof having haze envelop their vineyards following controlled burn-offs now has the job and has been continuing exploring the Lewis legacy with theconducted by the Department of Sustainability and Environment. Requests emphasis on Rhone Valley grape varieties led by shiraz, mourvedre, marsanne,from regional wine bodies and producers to delay burn-offs until the fruit roussanne and viognier. This year was also notable for riesling, with producerscould be picked were disregarded. ever so slowly, but eventually, coming around to the realisation that they had been keeping the riesling drinker in the dark for way too long. At last, we The vintage, tainted by association with the bushfires, will be a difficult one saw the first of the new riesling scales appearing on wine labels, indicatingto promote for some makers. Consumers, alerted to the problem, are watchful. the level of dryness or sweetness in the bottle. Gerald Ellis at MeadowbankWithin weeks of the bushfires, Gippsland producers were seeing customers in Tasmania was among the first to employ the meter, starting with his 2007at their cellar doors complaining of smoke taint in wines that, as it turned out, riesling labels. By year’s end the meter was taking off, with some producersweren’t directly affected. even considering it for their chardonnay. Sommeliers and retail buyers say they will be wary about the vintage as the Chardonnay and sweetness meters? Sadly, it has come to this. The sweetwines are released. Even winemakers in regions not affected are expecting tooth rules not only in chardonnay but our red wines. Little wonder Aussie winessome consumer confusion and possible backlash. All this, combined with the were fending off brickbats from near and far these past 12 months.global economic crisis dampening general demand for wine, presented a farfrom happy picture at year’s close. Something considerably harder to fend off, and fathom, was climate change, which has been on the minds of shiraz producers on the Mornington Peninsula. The problems facing Victorian winemakers were recently highlighted in Once considered too cold to grow shiraz, the peninsula is now consistentlyresearch by the Victorian Wine Industry Association (VWIA) and its survey of producing some terrific wines from the grape. Climate change is the most820 wineries, highlighting the impact not only of bushfires and smoke during likely candidate behind the turn-around, together with the age of the vines.the 2008-09 growing season but also frosts and drought. It found that 26 per The first shiraz was planted back in 1977.cent of Victorian wineries were negatively affected by bushfires, with the AlpineValleys, Beechworth and the Yarra Valley worse off. Regions hit hardest by Where once it was peninsula pinot noir cleaning up at wine shows, it is nowsmoke were the Upper Goulburn and Yarra Valley. ”In relation to all extreme shiraz that is shining. A peninsula shiraz from Paringa Estate again took out theweather events, including frosts, bushfire, smoke and drought, 85 per cent best wine in show award at this year’s Sydney Wine Show. Some makers areof wineries had been negatively impacted,” the report found. “Regions most even daring to imagine the day when shiraz will rival pinot noir as the region’saffected by loss of grape quality include Beechworth, Glenrowan, Sunbury and signature red grape variety. It’s a bold thought, but perhaps a little boldnessSwan Hill.” The report also found that 60 per cent of wineries had seen their is what Victorian wine producers need in these troubling times.businesses suffer due to the global economic downturn. Regions that growgrapes for export wines, notably Mildura/Murray Darling and the King Valley, The past year saw the first of what deserves to become an annual event, awere among those hit hard. Asked what business strategies they would adopt shameless self-promotion of the state’s locally grown food and wine calledto counter their horror year, Victorian winemakers answered with a range of ‘Put Victoria On Your Table’. The promotion, a series of tastings, dinners andcost-cutting exercises, namely reducing overheads (46 per cent), increasing events, was sponsored by the State Government and the wine industry withmarketing (46 per cent) and reducing staff hours (30 per cent). Against this the aim of ‘inspiring’ consumers to buy Victorian.backdrop of general gloom, there was the odd twinkle of light to be seen.There were birthdays to celebrate, two major birthdays in fact. Taltarni and It lasted only a couple of weeks but it brought producers and consumers together and gave them a much-needed lift. Perhaps it needs to run all year round? Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 109

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 victoriaother white Lynne Vale Estate Tahbilk Central Victoria Delatite Sylvia Giant Stepsvarietals & blends Verdelho 2008 HHHH Marsanne 2008 HHHH Upper Goulburn Sexton Vineyard Yarra Fruit-driven wine with lovely Intense floral aromas with Riesling 2008 HHHH Valley ChardonnayTahbilk Central Victoria aromas of pears and quinces delicate talc-like notes and Estery tropical/minerally 2007 HHHH1/2Marsanne 2002 HHHHH and flavours like lemonade. some nuttiness. Clean nose followed by a sweet, Smart, toasty oak aromasFantastic nose - smells Good acid/sugar balance. Very and bright palate with juicy fruit palate with loads with an earthy/flinty character.of rockmelons mixed nice drink. 1-2 $15 lovely flavour persistence of lime-like flavours and Palate a delicious combinationwith spice and with matched by great acidity. finishing long and clean. of fine fruit and subtle,some attractive honeyed Chrismont La Zona creamy oak. Extraordinarydevelopment. Beautifully King Valley Prosecco 1-2 $15.65 3-5 $23 length and finishing with abalanced, flavoursome NV HHHH Tahbilk Central Victoria Delatite Victoria nice hit of acidity. $34.95palate, still youthful and with Leafy, floral, perfumed nose Viognier 2008 HHHH Riesling 2008 HHHH Coldstream Hills Reservemany years ahead of it yet. with a light citrusy edge. Generous, warm and Complex, citrusy nose Yarra Valley Chardonnay Mouthfilling sweet palate persistent wine with aromas nicely edged with floral-like 2007 HHHH1/2 3-5 $15.65 with a balancing citrus zing of fruit, flowers and spices fragrances. Great persistence Prominent oak nose hasFrench Island from the acid. Very good and lively varietal flavours of fresh, crisp acidity on the light citrus fruit beneathVineyards Pinot Gris example of the style. $26 on a nicely textured palate. vibrant, fruity palate. $23 and slight malo complexity2008 HHHH1/2 evident. Tightly structuredQuite Alsacian in style, All Saints Estate 3-5 $18.95 Sam Miranda palate has intense varietalwith subtle pear and apple Moscato 2009 HHHH Chrismont La Zona Cellar Door Release flavours and biscuity oak.aromatics and plenty of Very perfumed, grapey King Valley Arneis King Valley Riesling Good tannin length. $46.90fruit richness on the mid- aromas and a palate that’s 2008 HHHH1/2 2006 HHHH Seppelt Jalukapalate. Very good length syrupy but has zingy orange Minerally nose with aromas “Made by the book,” said Drumborg Chardonnayand depth and excellent sherbet characters to balance of stone-fruit and thyme. one judge. Lime and toast 2007 HHHH1/2acid/sugar balance. out the sweetness. Has Great mouthfilling tropical aromas and great balance of Nutty, spicy aromas“A very nice wine.” $21 grape-like flavours. $17.99 flavours with a hint of developed citrus/toast flavours merge with melons and Punt Road Yarra Valley residual sugar and smooth and acid freshness. Flavours some cheese-like notes.Yarra Burn Yarra Valley Viognier 2008 HHHH oiliness. Nicely textured, keep on. 1-2 $20 Interesting oaky palateViognier 2007 HHHH1/2 Complex, oak-driven style but well-balanced wine. $22 that’s generous and spicy,Very attractive, complex, there’s plenty of sweet, fresh, John Gehrig King chardonnay with lovely layer upon layertoasty style of wine filled lively varietal fruit characters Valley Chenin Blanc of varietal flavour. $29.90with lifted pomme fruit edged and some decent acidity 2008 HHHHwith aged barrel ferment giving the wine length. $23 Complex apple/lemon curd Brown Brotherscharacters. Fragrant nose bouquet and slightly sweet Banksdale Limitedand a palate that has finesse, Brown Brothers Limited palate, a touch broad, but wightwick Release King Valleybalance and length. $26 Release King Valley delivers heaps of melon and Ballarat Chardonnay Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Pinot Grigio 2008 HHHH herb-like flavours. Difficult 2006 HHHHH Soft, perfumed peach andBlue Pyrenees Excellent intensity of fruity style to make well. $20 Mid-straw colour with green lemon nose and delicateMidnight Cuvee aromas with nutty layers. Side Gate Strathbogie hues. Nose a complexity melon and stone-fruitSparkling Chardonnay Rich tropical fruit flavours Ranges Sauvignon of honeysuckle orange flavours with delicate spicy2001 HHHH1/2 and just the right amount Blanc 2008 HHHH blossoms, florals and some notes and very good lengthGolden hues and subtle, of acid to balance. Good Flinty limes, tomato bush malo. Bright, lively, youthful of acidity. $24.90yeasty aromas, almost Bonox- summer food wine. $29.90 and some sweaty characters palate - great flavours, nicely Four Sisterslike, with slightly developed make up the nose. Soft, textured. Good oak usage. Goulburn Valleynotes. Fresh, lively and generous palate - long and Lots of potential. $27 Chardonnay 2008 HHHHgenerously flavoured palate balanced – with nice vibrancy. Coldstream Hills Light and lifted aromas ofwith nice balance between Some sweetness. $16.99 Yarra Valley Chardonnay lemon pith, delicate floralsacidity and liqueuring. $29 Yarra Burn Yarra 2008 HHHHH and fresh apples. Lively Valley Sauvignon Blanc Lovely wine with subtle palate has great texture and Semillon 2007 HHHH minerally/citrus bouquet is well balanced. A great Toasty fume style with good showing a pleasant spicy quaffer. $15.65 use of oak. Attractive herbal/ lift. Nicely textured and Yarra Burn Yarra Valley grassy aromas and obvious well-balanced palate that’s Chardonnay 2008 HHHH oak on the palate but with bright with lean varietal fruit, Very classy, complex style the right amount of fruit and some excellent lees and fine - smells of nectarines with acid to carry it. $24.50 tannins. $26.90 a flowery lift. Soft and round in the mouth, with riesling great flavour intensity that’s balanced by fine oak. $26 Long Gully Estate Yarra Valley Riesling 2008 HHHH1/2 Delicate hints of limes on the nose and showing a minerally streak. Juicy- sweet in the mouth, with subtle citrus flavours, well- judged sweetness level and a mouthwatering finish. $25110 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

victoriaBalgownie Estate St Huberts Hubert the All Saints EstateYarra Valley Stag Yarra Valley Pinot Rutherglen SangioveseChardonnay 2007 HHHH Noir 2008 HHHH1/2 Cabernet 2006 HHHHRich, ripe peach and Crimson wine with gorgeous Subdued cassis aromasnectarine aromas mingle aromas of ripe plums and with hints of violets andwith some earthy characters. red apples. Full and fleshy in pencil shavings. Lean, tannicPalate ripe and a little sweet the mouth with an intensity palate- very flavoursome,but balanced by attractive of bright fruit flavours, some very classy and built for thesavoury spiciness. $29 grippy tannins and crunchy long haul. 5+ $19.90 acidity. $22merlot Giant Steps Sexton VineyardSummerfield Wines Yarra Valley Pinot NoirMerlot 2006 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH1/2Medium red hues and Lighter style smelling of plumslovely aromas of fruit cake and mulberries and somemingling with toasty cedary obvious oak. Supple palateoak. More of the same on with very fine and gentle fruitthe soft and generously flavours, complementaryflavoured palate. $23 oak and fine, long tannins in support. $34.95Auldstone Glenrowan Coldstream HillsMerlot 2006 HHHH Yarra Valley Pinot NoirDelicious nose - smells of 2008 HHHHchocolate coated plums. Long, Complex, savoury aromaspersistent, soft plum palate with good level of primarywith nice savoury notes, a fruit and sweet oak. Long,dash of chocolate and good well-structured palate withtannic grip. 1-2 $25 a lovely smooth, velvety finish. $28Coldstream Hills Balgownie Estate Eaglerange EstateYarra Valley Merlot Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Alpine Valleys2007 HHHH 2008 HHHH Tempranillo 2008 HHHHComplex earthy/cedary Rich and meaty on the nose; Simple but pleasant charry/nose with currant-like fruit quite complex with a dash of plum nose - great dried fruitaromas. Savoury palate. Well spice. Dense, ripe palate has lift. Full and soft in the mouth.structured and balanced with generous fruit, firm tannins Nice jubey plum and spicyfine drying tannins. Needs and a fresh acid finish. $29 flavours with a fine tannicmore time. $26.90 Medhurst Yarra Valley balance. 3-5 $18 Pinot Noir 2006 HHHHpinot noir Nose an aromatic complexity of sour cherries,Rokewood Junction eucalypt and spice. Medium- All Saints Estate FamilyBallarat Pinot Noir weight palate is full of ripe Cellar Rutherglen Durif2006 HHHH1/2 fruit, firm tannins and good 2007 HHHHGreat nose - toffee and acid level. $30 Brooding, inky, varietallyjam-like with pungent, correct dark berry bouquetspicy notes leading into a other red and lovely jubey fruitconfectionery fruit palate varietals & blends flavours on a big, tannicwith plenty of oak support. palate. “Needs a decade toLovely texture. Great Tar & Roses Heathcote settle,” reckoned one judge!cellaring potential. $25 Tempranillo 2007 HHHH Sweet, spicy plums, 5+ $55 some toffee and forest undergrowth characters fill the nose. Ripe, youthful palate has great flavour persistence and oak softness. $24 Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 111

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 victoriacabernet sauvignon Taminick Cellars Yarra Burn The Anvil by Redbank Heathcote Winery& blends Special Release Yarra Valley Shiraz Beechworth Shiraz Curagee Shiraz Glenrowan Cabernet Viognier 2006 HHHH 2006 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHHSanguine Estate Sauvignon 2006 HHHH Very good style. Nose of Dark and inky, with a Smells of dark chocolateHeathcote Cabernet Cassis aromas mingle with berries and violets with a vibrant purple rim. Smells with threads of coffee andSauvignon Cabernet tobacco and are lifted by violet dash of mint. Big, sweet, of raspberries and spices. tobacco running through it.Franc Petit Verdot notes. Gorgeous, brooding ripe palate has retained its Palate has lovely all round Big, rich and flavoursome2006 HHHHH dark fruit flavours with classy vibrancy and is evolving flavour - distinctively cool in the mouth, with chunkyLovely big, dense, charry oak and lovely fine-grained nicely. $24.50 climate in character, with tannin support. $60oak/spicy mulberry bouquet tannins. 5+ $18 Chambers Rosewood great cellaring potential. Harcourt Valleyfollowed by a big, solid, Vineyard Anton Ruche Vineyards Sightingschunky palate beautifully Rutherglen Shiraz 5+ $53 Shiraz 2006 HHHHlayered with earthy/forest Mondeuse 2005 HHHH Aromas of licorice and spicefloor flavours and warming Still a bright and vibrant with a raisined fruit edgealcohol. $25 colour. Dark and brooding on fill the nose. Generous andSeppelt Moyston the prune and cocoa nose. fleshy in the mouth - lovelyGrampians Bendigo Hefty, drying, tannic palate spicy/tarry characters. $20Cabernet Sauvignon carrying dark fruit flavours.2007 HHHH Pyren VineyardAlmost medicinal-like aroma 3-5 $16 CD Block E Pyrenees Shirazmixed in with the dark juicy 2006 HHHHberries and spicy oak. Buller Black Dog Creek De Bortoli Sero Montara Grampians Vibrant and juicy wineLovely green and lean, cool King Valley Cabernet King Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 packed with cherries andclimate palate - youthful and Merlot 2008 HHHH Tempranillo 2006 HHHH Nose is both fragrant and raspberries and supportedvibrant. $25.90 Very heady, perfumed nose “Great wine to have with dark and chocolaty with by a hint of mint, stylish acidColdstream Hills - loads of spice. Pretty palate a steak,” said one judge. an edge of tobacco. Thick and fine, long tannins. $27Reserve Yarra Valley with good weight of wine Lifted, spicy, raspberry and syrupy palate, dense Warrenmang Black PumaCabernet Sauvignon gum-like fruit, chocolaty oak aromas and juicy fruit and intense with fabulous Shiraz 2006 HHHH2006 HHHH and good tannin structure. $15 flavours across the length varietal flavours. $23 Sweet spices and darkDark red, savoury style of of the palate. Easy-drinking berries lift off the nose andcabernet. Aged chocolaty style. $13.90 lead to a delightful palatenose and full, fleshy palate layered with flavours of berrythat has good length and shiraz fruit and sweet oak. $80complexity and a nice firmfinish. $51.90 Sam Miranda High Yarravale Reserve Buller Beverford Blue Pyrenees ReservePunt Road Plains King Valley Yarra Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHHH Shiraz 2005 HHHHYarra Valley Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 HHHH1/2 Smells of plums with a On the nose raspberriesSauvignon 2006 HHHH 2008 HHHH Popular commercial style of sprinkling of cinnamon. mingle with eucalyptVery varietal nose - all Vibrant purple wine. Nose of shiraz with the oak evident Palate resembles all the and spices. In the mouthcherries and chocolate with blackcurrants and raspberry but not dominant and characters you’d find in a there is an abundance ofslight sour edge. Well- with a dash of spice. Great matched by some lovely ripe plum pudding. Has weight, lovely bright, slightly stalkyretained fruit flavours with cassis flavour has a chocolaty berry fruits. Very lively wine length and balance. $13 flavours. $32nice charry tannins and a thread and balancing acidity. with great length and nice Punt Road Yarra Valleygentle end. $25 fleshiness. $33.11 Shiraz 2006 HHHH sweet white & fortifiedGiant Steps 3-5 $17 Lost Valley Winery Oak prominent on theHarry’s Monster Delatite Devil’s River Central Victoria Shiraz slightly oily nose - sweet RL Buller and SonYarra Valley Cabernet Victoria Red Blend 2006 HHHH1/2 berries underneath. Savoury Rutherglen RareBlend 2006 HHHH 2006 HHHH Vibrant wine with palate, quite warm with Tokay NV HHHHHWarm, firm and tannic wine Smells like cough linctus intense sweet berry/mint good balance and length and Dark brown, with rich,that has an abundance of - some nice sweet raspberry bouquet and lovely sweet a clean acid finish. $25 tarry coffee bean aromasjuicy cooked plum fruit characters obvious - and has persistence of varietal Heathcote Winery and an extremely complexcharacters. $44.95 loads of bright berry fruits flavours well matched by Mail Coach Shiraz chocolaty/mocha palate filling the fleshy palate with the juicy tannins. Still very 2007 HHHH showing great age intensity flavour. $29 youthful. $34 Pepper, licorice, mint and and balance and tremendous tar - it’s all there on the length of flavour. $100 shiraz blends nose and followed by a Morris of Rutherglen lovely depth and vibrancy of Cellar Reserve Grand McPherson Basilisk thick, rich, juicy shiraz fruit Muscat NV HHHHH Central Victoria Shiraz flavours. $30 Unusual coffee and caramel Mourvedre 2007 HHHH aromas and a beautiful rich Ripe, slightly jammy coffee and dried fruit palate aromas with some nice with fantastic leathery, treacle- sweet oak influence, and like characters. The flavours a mouthful of dark, hot, just go on and on well after syrupy flavours. Showing the wine has gone. $35 great potential. $17.95112 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 victoriaMorris of Rutherglen RL Buller and Son Side Gate Little Morris Liqueur Morris LiqueurOld Premium Liqueur Calliope Rutherglen Sweetie Strathbogie Tokay NV HHHH Muscat NV HHHHMuscat NV HHHHH Grand Muscat Ranges Traminer Nice mix of sweet berry fruit, “Muscat meets tokay!”,Layer upon layer of really NV HHHH1/2 Riesling 2008 HHHH complex rancio characters declared one judge aboutrich aromas of prunes and Rich toffee and malt aromas Pungent, spicy, floral nose and fresh spirit drying off the this style. Zesty citrusraisins with a fresh spirit with a spicy floral lift. Rich, leads onto a lovely fresh, finish. Flavour and freshness peel fragrances and lushlift. Outstanding palate of aged palate has zesty orange sweet fruit palate that in abundance. $18.95 sweet/spicy palate with aintense flavours, perfect spirit peel freshness and a lovely shows flavour persistence Morris of Rutherglen syrupy texture and acid/spiritdryness, great acidity and a long spirit finish. Perfect and great delicacy. $12.99 Cellar Reserve Grand balance. $18.95wonderful fresh finish. $65 weight and balance. $59.95 Morris of Rutherglen Tokay NV HHHH RL Buller and SonTaminick Cellars Morris Liqueur Cellar Reserve Grand Smells a little like malt Old Vines RutherglenGlenrowan Liqueur Tawny NV HHHH Amontillado NV HHHH extract with a pleasant Muscat NV HHHHMuscat NV HHHH1/2 A classic, showing lovely Lovely brassy colour with citrusy lift. Intense dark and Chocolate colour, with raisinsVery pungent rose petal/ aged characters and great nice toasty/nutty aromas. tarry flavours, with masses and stewed fruit on the noseTurkish delight-like bouquet richness of caramel toffee Dry, flavoursome palate but of fresh, drying spirit. $35 and an incredible intensitywith some lovely fresh aromas and flavours that are there’s a hint of sweetness RL Buller and Son of raisin-like flavours and aspirit and rancio complexity. lifted by the fresh spirit. Nice that balances the wine Calliope Grand Tokay luscious, oily mouthfeel. $24Palate exhibits intense floral unctuous ending. $18.95 perfectly. $45 NV HHHH Baileys of Glenrowanflavours with candied fruit Hints of espresso coffee Winemakers Selectionrichness. $15 Morris of Rutherglen Morris Vintage and cold tea on the nose. Old Muscat NV HHHHMorris of Rutherglen Old Premium Port 2002 HHHH Lush and buttery in the Aromas of cold tea mix withCellar Reserve Grand Tawny NV HHHH Not a classic - yet! Needs mouth, with treacle-like lovely floral characters, andTawny NV HHHH1/2 Some serious aged rancio more time. Smells of stewed flavours and leathery aged the rich, well-aged palate hasDeep, rich caramel bouquet characters showing here. plums and clean brandy spirit. rancio notes. $59.95 lingering, raisined flavourswith toasty, nutty and Tremendous weight, Ripe berry fruit flavours nicely and a zesty ending. $34.99macerated fruit layers. Very complexity and intensity balanced by the tannins. $20rich leather and treacle palate of leathery treacle flavourswith fresh citrus zestiness with a zesty freshness atand great overall length. $35 the end. $45CELLAR LINK Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 113

© Ho Yan Fan.new sowuatlhes THE BEST WINES OF 2009 CONTENTS Includes: Sparkling, Other White Varietals & Blends, Semillon, Chardonnay, Other Red Varietals & Blends, Shiraz, Sweet White.

BRIGHT LIGHTS PIERCE THE GLOOM The year in New South Wales, reviewed by Winsor DobbinI N A YEAR in which much doom and gloom surrounded the wine The Oatley family underlined their commitment to the Mudgee region in industry, New South Wales producers still found much to be optimistic October, when they repurchased the historic Cumbandry vineyards from about during 2009. After being hit by drought in 2007 and heavy rain in Foster’s. The vineyards were originally part of the Rosemount wine group2008, when red grapes were all but wiped out, Hunter Valley winemakers founded by Oatley in 1969 and were sold to Foster’s in 2002.were delighted with better results in 2009 with whites, particularly semillon,chardonnay and verdelho, of stellar quality - and reds picked before the A major focus of the New South Wales Wine Industry Association throughoutheavy rain in mid-February also look good. the year was spreading the message about the variety of styles and many different terroirs within the state. The Canberra district reported an excellent year for both reds and whites,Mudgee had a vintage that should produce very good reds and the Southern “There was definite focus on getting out the message that New South Wales offersHighlands also reported a great vintage. a wide range of wine styles - and that wine grapes are produced from virtually all over the state,” said the association’s promotions manager, Mike O’Malley. Orange winemakers were celebrating a second excellent vintage in a row.“I never expected the 2009 vintage to surpass the quality of 2008 but it has,” The regions also did their best to lift their profiles - particularly in the majorsaid Printhie winemaker Drew Tuckwell. “It is a real privilege to have two great market of Sydney - with the Hunter, Orange, Mudgee and Canberra regions allvintages back to back. Someone must be smiling on us.” holding regular festivals and tastings in the city. The results of the NSW Wine Awards emphasised that message, with the results hailed as “a celebration of Mudgee, a region better known for reds than whites, produced some the small, new and unique, with boutique producers, emerging wine regionsoutstanding ’09 rieslings from higher-altitude vineyards, with Thistle Hill and and alternative varietals dominating”.Robert Stein both winning several awards for their efforts. “The riesling vinesreally struggle here,” said Robert Stein winemaker Jacob Stein. “They sit at an The NSW Top 40 included wines made from riesling, sauvignon blanc,altitude of 550 metres, which is a great altitude for riesling to retain its natural viognier, pinot gris, nebbiolo and rondinella corvina, along with more traditionalacidity and flavour. The soil is hard quartz and shale, making it difficult for the varieties, and emerging regions Canberra, Tumbarumba, Hilltops and Orangevines to establish their root systems. The pay-off is the great fruit intensity we took seven of the 12 trophies. The NSW Wine of the Year was Brokenwood’sare seeing in the grapes. I think the best of Mudgee whites is yet to come.” 2007 Forest Edge Chardonnay, made by a Hunter winery from Orange fruit by Iain Riggs and PJ Charteris. David Lowe of Lowe Family Wines is similarly positive. “A wide range of climaticand environmental conditions means many different varieties and complex Wine tourism remained a major focus of the industry with winery restaurantsflavours can be found in a relatively small region like Mudgee,” he said. doing extremely well throughout the state. Rock Restaurant, at Poole’s Rock Winery, Pokolbin, was awarded two hats in the 2010 Sydney Morning Herald Things were less rosy in the Riverina, where February heat had an impact Good Food Guide for the second year running and was one of only twoon the quality of fruit from the 2009 harvest. Yields would have been reduced restaurants outside Sydney to get that status.“We pride ourselves on providingif not for new plantings. a sophisticated, fine dining experience for food and wine lovers visiting the Hunter Valley,” said chef and co-owner Andrew Clarke. In Cowra, growers reported an average to below-average size crop,according to Jason O’Dea of Windowrie Estate. “The white varieties Orange’s Union Bank Wine Bar won the award for Best Regional Wine Listripened early and evenly, with wineries reporting good varietal expression, in the Good Food Guide awards. The venue is Orange’s food and wine hub,with semillon, chardonnay and verdelho looking very good from a quality with a wine list focusing on local labels and drawing from over 600 winesperspective. Red varieties produced small berries due to the season but hand-selected by Nick Butler.growers reported above-average colour intensity and great depth of flavourin shiraz, cabernet and merlot.” There was sad news in the Hunter, with regional wine pioneer and legendary bon vivant Max Lake dying in April at the age of 84, while October saw the Tom Ward from Swinging Bridge Estate at Canowindra reported: “The highlights death of 88-year-old Filippo Casella, the founder of Casella Wines - home ofwere probably shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, which held on in the heat better, the Yellow Tail brand. The Sicilian-born grapegrower and winemaker launchedwhile the lowlights were anything that ripened during the heatwave.” Yellow Tail in 2001 and the brand now sells 12 million cases annually. Industry commentator David Cumming, of marketing company Define Wine, The most heart-warming story was the return to the Drayton’s winery of youngsaid wines from Orange were improving exponentially with winemakers like winemaker William Rikard-Bell, who suffered burns to 70 per cent of his bodyDrew Tuckwell, Phil Kerney (Ross Hill) and Philip Shaw working in the region, in the explosion that killed Trevor Drayton and winery worker Eddie Orgo inand predicts, “Mudgee will make another resurgence with the likes of Jacob 2008. He has made a quite remarkable recovery, married long-time girlfriendStein, the Oatley family and di Lusso leading the way.” Kimberley Booker and is now the senior winemaker at Drayton’s. Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 115

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new south walessparkling Pepper Tree semillon Saddler’s Creek Coolangatta Estate Hunter Valley Verdelho Classic Hunter Valley Shoalhaven CoastWily Trout Premium 2009 HHHH Allandale Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 HHHH Semillon 2006 HHHHCanberra District Lovely lifted, zesty, tropical Semillon 2003 HHHHH Lovely lemon curd nose and More of a lemony styleSparkling 2006 HHHH aromas, and a long, crisp Still an amazingly fresh excellent spicy citrus flavours semillon, with layersFresh, lifted, biscuity/cracked palate showing a fine wine with bright lime/citrus on a lovely long, young palate of toasty/honeyedwheat complexity to the balance between fruit semillon fruit and lovely that’s bright and clean and development and crisp,nose. Good balance between weight and acidity. $18 toasty bottle age complexity has high acidity. $23 lively acidity. Good cellaringaged complexity, varietal fruit Tallavera Grove developing. Generous Pepper Tree Alluvius potential. $25and crisp acidity. $29 Vineyard Hunter Valley mouthful of flavours in the Hunter Valley Semillon Coolangatta EstateCuttaway Hill Laurence Verdelho 2009 HHHH classic fruit spectrum. $26 2009 HHHH Shoalhaven CoastSouthern Highlands Subtle fruit nose with a Tyrrell’s Wines Smells of stone-fruit and Semillon 2005 HHHHSparkling Cabernet slight lemon rind-like lift, and HVD Single Vineyard citrus and has a very Slightly broad but verySauvignon 2004 HHHH a fresh, vibrant palate that Hunter Valley Semillon appealing young palate. nicely developed style withEarthy, aged bouquet with has length, tight tropical fruit 2003 HHHHH Good varietal flavours good varietal fruit depth andslight pungency. Very sweet flavours and fresh acidity. $20 Waxy lemon zest bouquet driven by the acidity at the excellent integration of zingypalate entry has earthy/ and lively semillon fruit moment. Time! $30 acidity and spicy notes. $28leathery flavour complexity. Frog Rock Mudgee on the palate showing a Cooyal Grove Mudgee Coolangatta EstateVery well made. $32 Pinot Gris 2008 HHHH herbal edge and finishing Semillon 2008 HHHH Shoalhaven Coast Straw coloured with a hint with some residual sugar Lighter style with floral/ Semillon 2004 HHHHother white of pink. Smells of spicy ripe sweetness on the end. A herbal/cut grass characters Beautifully developed,varietals & blends pears. Great drink showing keeper. $29.99 dominating the nose and complex wine with a spicy, excellent varietal characters Tyrrell’s Wines Stevens followed by a nicely textured honeyed lift to the nose andCapercaillie Hunter and perfectly balanced by Single Vineyard green apple palate with a a lovely rich, flavoursome,Valley Gewurztraminer the acid. $18 Hunter Valley Semillon good acid spine. $15 fruit-driven palate. $302009 HHHH Cuttaway Hill Southern 2005 HHHH1/2Very fresh, spicy nose Highlands Sauvignon Pungent nose layered with Allandale Hunter Valley Tempus Two Zenithwith traces of rose oil. Blanc 2008 HHHH slight toastiness. Palate Semillon 2004 HHHH Hunter Valley SemillonMore of the same on the Classic minerally youthful and vibrant, with Pure varietal fruit nose with 2004 HHHHclean, lively palate. Very gooseberry/passionfruit great length and intensity of lovely toasty characters and Citrus and some toastyrefreshing drink. $19 aromas. Great grassy flavour. Still a baby. Will age very intense lime palate aromas with lifted lanolinAudrey Wilkinson varietal characters on a beautifully. $29.99 with just the right amount of notes. Very bright, piercingWinemaker’s Selection slightly sweet palate with a De Bortoli Limited toasty bottle age. $26 acidity on the well-Hunter Valley Traminer lovely drying finish. $20 Release Murphy’s structured palate. Nice2009 HHHH Vineyard Hunter Valley touch of bottle age. $30Delicate yet pungent pear/ Semillon 2004 HHHH1/2apple aromas. Tight palate Well-structured, intensely chardonnaystructure showing good flavoured lemon/citrusvarietal fruit characters and style. Very good depth and Trentham Estatesupported by crisp acidity. $20 excellent complexity. Some Chardonnay toastiness on the nose and 2008 HHHHH richness on the palate. $35 Golden wine with a woody Saddler’s Creek Classic nose mingling with some Hunter Valley Semillon alluring nectarine aromas. 1999 HHHH1/2 Rich, full-on, peach-like palate Dense, toasty, fruit-driven that sits softly in the mouth wine showing classic bottle and has some nice creamy age characters. Good middle oak lees complexity. $16 CD palate flavour intensity that draws slowly to a long finish. $52 Pepper Tree Limited Release Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 HHHH1/2 Soft, lemony nose with oatmeal-like characters threaded through. Great purity of varietal fruit flavours and plenty of length. Clean and well made. $22116 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new south walesTrentham Murphy’s Angullong Arrowfield Estate Show sweet whiteLore Chardonnay Fossil Hill Orange Reserve Hunter Valley2008 HHHH1/2 Barbera 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Robert Stein MudgeeLovely ripe nutty/figgy nose A bit medicinal on the nose Bright red wine with lovely Harvest Gold NV HHHHfollowed by a long, lingering but plenty of chocolate/ intensity of ripe, spicy shiraz Well-made, lighter, genericand fresh stone-fruit palate cherry aromas. Savoury fruit perfectly balanced with style with balanced VA/with a peaches and cream- palate opens up with deep the oak and showing green botrytis characters, intenselike texture and showing spice and cherry flavours. but persistent tannins. Good James Estate sweet raisined fruit andsome attractive lees Interesting wine. $19.99 cellaring ahead. 5+ $25 Hunter Valley Shiraz good level of acidity. $25complexity. $10 De Bortoli Deen Vat 1 2006 HHHHHigh Valley Wines Durif 2007 HHHH Audrey Wilkinson Deep, inky wine withPremium Mudgee Plenty of spicy black fruit The Lake Reserve savoury/tarry aromas andChardonnay 2008 HHHH power to the exquisite nose. Hunter Valley Shiraz vibrant, medium-bodiedLively floral nose with Palate is a big, tannic ‘brute’ 2006 HHHH1/2 savoury palate with goodsubtle, well-handled oak. with a lovely lush mulberry/ Appealing wood and lovely length and complexity andFeels silky in the mouth and plum centre. $12.99 spicy black berry fruits fine drying tannins. $15has delightful sweet tropical Wandin Valley Estate with a surprising amount Tintilla Estate Reservefruit, fine oak and cleansing Pavilion Hunter Valley of leathery maturity for a Hunter Valley Shirazacidity. $23 Rose 2009 HHHH three-year-old. Lovely soft 2007 HHHH Very pretty pink wine with mouthfeel and good flavour Delicious savoury/meatyother red appealing leafy/rose-like length. $50 aromas, with more of thosevarietals & blends fragrances and a bright fruit meaty characters on the palate with great acid length. palate and fused with ripe,RidgeView Hunter Valley Very flavoursome. $20 bright berry fruits. $30Cabernet Sauvignon RidgeView Generations2007 HHHH1/2 shiraz Reserve Hunter ValleyRich, succulent wine with Shiraz 2007 HHHHa very youthful cassis and Oakvale Peppercorn Big, rich, very woody wineblackcurrant nose and Hunter Valley Shiraz but it’s still in balance.delicious chocolaty/licorice 2007 HHHH1/2 Savoury and slightly mintynotes on the chunky Lovely plum and mulberry aromas and a deep, dense,cabernet palate. Lots of life aromas with lots of wood flavoursome palate. $40left. 5+ $25 on top. Soft, long, well- balanced palate has beautiful tarry complexity and sweet, layered varietal fruit. $35 Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 117

Capel Vale Winery and Restaurant.waeustsetrranlia THE BEST WINES OF 2009 CONTENTS Includes: Other White Varietals & Blends, Sauvignon Blanc & Blends, Semillon, Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Other Red Varietals, Cabernet Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz Blends, Shiraz.

RIVER OF GOLD DRIES UP The West Australian year in review, by Mike ZekulichO NCE upon a time in WA, there was a booming wine industry. WA wines products need to be rewarded for their efforts. Greater industry unity is - especially from Margaret River - were the flavour of the month. As needed to promote WA wines.” He also believes that WA producers, who people tried to cash in on the boom, it seemed like vines were going have traditionally based production on cabernet merlots, semillon sauvignonin anywhere there was a suitable bit of dirt or indeed, unsuitable bit. blancs, chardonnay and shiraz must consider “more interesting offerings” - new styles such as sparkling wines, more sweet styles, light, easy-drinking Such was the pace that it was not long before the Margaret River region reds and aromatic whites.became the State’s top wine spot, eclipsing the Swan Valley, traditional heartof WA viticulture and winemaking. Then the fairytale evaporated or, more In a downturn, there are always exceptions, such as Sandalford Wines,precisely, the global financial crisis struck. Overnight, optimism gave way to which has expanded its vineyard interests. Chief executive Grant Brinklowfrustration, with unwanted prime grapes left unpicked on vines while others said it was important to invest in the future and take a very long term view.were ripped out, the land put to alternative agricultural use or left empty, a Leeuwin Estate principal Denis Horgan said demand for premium and ultra-reminder of vanished dreams. ‘For sale’ signs proliferated - multimillion-dollar premium wine had fallen so producers had to be smart about finding newproperties went on the market at cut prices well below replacement costs. markets and watching their costs. Two years ago growers had been selling prime fruit to eastern states Five years ago, Capel Vale principal Peter Pratten predicted a worldwinemakers for $1000 a tonne. Now they could not give the grapes away. wine glut was inevitable because of the extent of plantings in Australia andIf, indeed, they managed a sale, it was at greatly depressed prices overseas. His research showed that wineries that survived longest and didas constant calls to bigger wineries seeking a home for contracted or best were the family-owned producers with wines based on regionality. “Thatuncontracted fruit fell on deaf ears. It mattered little how good the vintage has been the experience in France, where they have put up with losses inwas; fruit quality was not the issue. It was a matter of selling enough the ups and downs of wine history,” he said.bottles at a profit at home or abroad in a tough and tightening market tosustain production into the years ahead. Three years ago, the Prattens moved to focus their production on three levels of regional wines from vineyards in the southern half of WA, backed In fact, could Humpty Dumpty be put together again? Some must think so, by marketing and label changes. As well, Capel Vale quit stocks and cutfor new labels still keep popping up; those behind them no doubt believing the area of its vineyards by half.or hoping that in the longer term the investment will pay off, if they can staythe distance. With land now more valuable as real estate than as vineyards, Peter believes many more vines will be pulled out in WA in the next few years in a downturn Then amid the gloom, came the 2009 vintage - hailed as one of the that could last anything up to 10 years. “It’s a world glut and you still have Chile,state’s finest. “It’s the best since I came to WA in 1993,” said John Griffiths, South Africa, Argentina and New Zealand (up until this year) planting.”president of the WA Wine Industry Association. “The beauty of the year wasthat everyone got their fruit ripe though it was a mild season - and mostly Peter said big companies gave Australia a cheap and cheerful image,disease-free. Reds were sensational and the whites not far behind.” producing consistently, reasonable quality wines - but all producers had been tarred with the same brush, particularly in the UK. “We have to pull Consultant winemaker Larry Cherubino reported the season had produced ourselves out of this and I believe regionality will become increasinglyconsistently good white varieties in major growing regions. “An Indian important as survivors come out of the downturn. Overseas, the first thing Isummer also meant that late-picked reds will prove to be something pretty tell customers is that WA is a separate country in wine terms with differentspecial,” he said. terroir and climate. We can produce wines quite different to traditional eastern state styles with flavours more akin to the Old World and more elegant.” Long-serving WA winemaker Bill Crappsley described the vintage asexcellent, lauding riesling, chardonnay and shiraz from the Great Southern and Finally, as if all the economic gloom was not enough, a mystery pest - latersemillon, sauvignon blanc, cabernet and merlot from Margaret River. Others identified as the native insect apple looper - targeted mainly semillon andalso had high 2009 hopes, claiming it would be a memorable wine year. sauvignon blanc vines around Margaret River when favourable weather conditions in November and December saw the pest emerge from the forest But then the headaches of the bleak industry outlook will also not easily be to take its toll on numerous vineyards, causing widespread concern.forgotten. John Griffiths said it was unfortunate that some large corporationshad decided to sell assets, put off staff and cut grape purchases. In According to WA Agriculture and Food Department entomologist Stewartcomparison, family-owned operations were tightening belts to hang on. Learmonth, based in Manjimup, it was as much a surprise as a mystery because it was the first known attack by the bug on grapevines. On one vineyard damage He argued that there needed to be a greater differentiation between was estimated at up to 30 per cent, and all varieties could be affected.commercial and craft winemaking. “Producers who make hand-crafted Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 119

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 western australiaother white Hainault Forest Moss Brothers Moses Rockfield Estatevarietals & blends Fruits Bickley Valley Rock Margaret River Vineyard Margaret Gewurztraminer Sauvignon Blanc River Sauvignon Blanc 2008 HHHH Semillon 2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH Beautiful perfumed nose; Lovely fresh, varietally Riper style, with big hit of fragrances of rose petals expressive citrus blossom nettles and some lychee and violets. Plenty of flavour style. Some capsicum and and hair oil characters on that persists through the green beans on the nose, the nose and good depth length of the palate. Some leading to a creamy palate and intensity of spicy lemon residual sugar with acid/ with beautiful weight and flavours. $22 phenolics to balance. $18 length of flavour. $18The Growers’ Reward sauvignon blanc Blackboy Ridge Tassell Park Margaret Alkoomi WandooMargaret River Verdelho & blends Estate Geographe River Sauvignon Blanc Frankland River2004 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 HHHH Semillon 2004 HHHH1/2Gorgeous toasty/nutty/ Oakover Wines Semillon 2008 HHHH Delightful aromas of rose Powerful, oak-driven stylehoneyed development White Label Swan Very bright, lifted, sassy petals and honeysuckle. starting to show some rich,on the nose, yet it’s still Valley Classic White passionfruit aromas. Tastes Some powerful floral flavours toasty bottle development.amazingly fresh. Big, oak- 2008 HHHH1/2 of lemons and limes with well supported by a tight, Great palate structuredominated palate lively with Lean and delicate delight some minerally notes and lean acid backbone. $22 CD and good persistence ofcreamy lemon flavours with with slight sweaty, perfumed slight phenolic characters, excellent crisp, grassya great ending! $18 aromas and powerful, finishing on the dry side. $15 semillon flavours. $34.76 mouthfilling, sweet lemon Xanadu Dragon Wills Domain MargaretCapel Vale Cellar flavours with good phenolic/ Margaret River Moss Brothers River SemillonExclusive Sassy acid balance and a long, Sauvignon Blanc Margaret River 2005 HHHH1/2Western Australia drying finish. $15 CD Semillon 2008 HHHH Semillon 2008 HHHHH Gorgeous complex,Sparkling 2006 HHHH Harewood Estate Great A true classic with its punchy/ Excellent varietal expression developed style. LovelyVery youthful, well- Southern Sauvignon stalky/sweaty nose and well- - great example of style. aged semillon nose - intensestructured wine offering a Blanc Semillon structured palate filled with Zesty lemon bouquet with and fragrant and toasty.bright future. Smells toasty 2008 HHHH1/2 flavour and well supported by smoky/flinty nuances. Palate starting to showand nutty with lovely creamy Punchy, earthy, sweaty nose lovely crisp acidity. $16 Beautifully structured palate more of those yummy agedmouthfeel balanced by very - smells of tomato leaves, Watershed Shades has complexity and structure characters with lovely crispgood acid backbone. $26.95 sweet lemons and green Margaret River and delicious fresh, lively acidity. $23.50Capel Vale Debut peas with a lemon lolly Sauvignon Blanc flavours. $25 Windows MargaretWestern Australia edge. Palate has generous Semillon 2008 HHHH Rockfield Estate River SemillonVerdelho 2008 HHHH lemon flavours in front and Very floral nose - quite lifted, Vineyard Margaret River 2008 HHHHVibrant peaches and orange middle, becoming lean at with delicate herbal nuances. Semillon 2008 HHHH1/2 Estery citrus blossompeel aromas lift out of the the end. $19.95 Supple, well-defined palate Complex nose with estery bouquet with hint ofglass. Warm palate has an that’s bright with sweet, grassy/asparagus aromas bananas. Well-balancedabundance of creamy peach Tassell Park Margaret lemony fruit. $16.95 edged with lemon, and a very palate full of sweet lemonflavours with a dash of River Sauvignon Blanc Chalice Bridge long, complex and classy flavours and lively acid, withcitrus. $17.95 Semillon 2008 HHHH1/2 Margaret River Classic palate with lovely tight, citrusy a slightly hot finish. $19.95Wovenfield Ferguson Lovely big, punchy, varietal White 2008 HHHH flavours, some residual Vasse Felix MargaretValley Viognier nose - smells of lemongrass Very skillfully made wine sweetness and tight acid. $22 River Semillon2008 HHHH with piles of nettles. Supple with pretty orange blossom/ 2008 HHHHSmells of apricot jam and palate, well weighted with floral fruit and perhaps a dash Fresh, clean varietal withginger and tastes much good flavour definition and a of oak? Has length and poise bright straw hues. The winethe same. Very fresh, clean finish. $22 CD and is very polished. $19.95 is a balance between lovelyrich, well-balanced palate Hay Shed Hill zesty fruit intensity, tight,with a powerful phenolic Margaret River steely acid, a hint of oak andbackbone. $20 Sauvignon Blanc some phenolics. $25 Semillon 2008 HHHH Lifted, lantana-like aromas lead to a clean, zesty palate bursting with green capsicum flavours and lemon sweetness with a powerful acid spine. $20 Vasse Felix Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008 HHHH Lifted, zesty lemon nose with some oak influence. Lovely palate with well- defined varietal flavours lengthened by oak and a long clean finish. $25120 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 western australiasemillon Amberley Margaret Sandalford Margaret Moss Brothers Jane The Growers’sauvignon blanc River Semillon River Classic Dry White Moss Margaret River Frankland River Sauvignon Blanc 2008 HHHH Semillon Sauvignon Riesling 2004 HHHH1/2Edwards Margaret River 2008 HHHH1/2 Leaner style with some Blanc 2008 HHHH Beautiful aged wine withSemillon Sauvignon Perfumed nose with sweet capsicum aromas and Stemmy/grassy aromas toasty, creamy lemonBlanc 2008 HHHH1/2 minerally lime-like sweet lemon flavours that mixed with citrus and herbs. bouquet and flavoursomeTerrific example of the style, characters. Fleshy, ripe build up along the length of Leaner style lemon/lime palate that’s still verywith big, punchy and zesty palate full of gooseberry and the palate. A tad phenolic on palate - slight celery-like edge youthful - tastes ofaromas and great varietal lemongrass flavours, with the end. $18.99 but soft in the mouth. $24 honeysuckle and limes, withflavour definition. Good some attractive complexity Chalice Bridge the acid still tight. Plenty ofphenolics in the background developing. $22.50 Margaret River riesling life left. 3-5 $20adding complexity. $23 Wills Domain Semillon SauvignonOakover Wines Margaret River Blanc 2008 HHHH Palandri Vita Novus 3 Drops Mount BarkerSplash Swan Valley Semillon Sauvignon A classic. The nose has an Frankland River Riesling 2008 HHHHSemillon Sauvignon Blanc 2008 HHHH abundance of gooseberry, Riesling 2008 HHHHH Quite Alsacian in style, withBlanc 2008 HHHH1/2 Lean, grassy style with lawn clippings and sweet Lovely style of riesling - some savoury notes showingBig, flavoursome wine nice pungency - very WA! herbs. Mouthwatering development happening through. Very good depthwith lovely lemony aromas Palate well balanced, crisp earthy, gooseberry flavours on the nose, giving toasty of floral/citrusy varietal fruitshowing a hint of tropicals and tasting of citrus with a and steely notes. $19.95 notes to the honeysuckle and persistent, mouthfillingand slight perfumed edge, herbal edge and a dash of Lenton Brae fragrances. Big, powerful finish. 5+ $22Nice depth and complexity spice. $23.50 Margaret River honeysuckle flavours onof soft varietal flavours. Deep Woods Estate Semillon Sauvignon creamy palate with a tight Trevelen FarmGreat example! $17 CD Margaret River Blanc 2008 HHHH acid spine. $22.95 Great Southern Riesling Semillon Sauvignon Big wine with powerful 2008 HHHH Blanc 2008 HHHH varietal expression. Good Appealing, aromatic wine Very bright - very varietal. depth, length and balance, with estery floral and lime Fragrant bouquet with a with enough phenolics to aromas and well-balanced, dash of oak and lovely long add complexity. $23.18 nicely textured palate with palate with a mix of grassy good fruit weight and length semillon and riper sauvignon and mineral acidity. $25 blanc flavours. $16.08 Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 121

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 western australiachardonnay Houghton The Bandit chardonnay Ferngrove Orchid Series Evoi Reserve Margaret2008 Western Australia 2007 Diamond Frankland River Chardonnay Chardonnay Viognier River Chardonnay 2007 HHHHSandalford Estate 2008 HHHH Devil’s Lair Margaret 2007 HHHH Complex, nutty, creamy,Reserve Margaret Oak gives the nose rich, River Chardonnay Delightfully complex savoury bouquet and plentyRiver Chardonnay toasty aromas. Good balance 2007 HHHHH chardonnay; mellow and of length to the sweet,2008 HHHHH between oak and creamy Very classy wine with a creamy, lemon palate. It isDelightful complexity of fig, lemon/fig fruit flavours. Quite fabulous example of cool- balanced, well integratedmelon and lemon-like aromas alcoholic, with a sweetish grown fruit that’s beautifully and has richness. $49fill the glass, followed by a finish. $19.95 blended with top-quality Cape Grace Margaretrich, lusciously juicy and very Upper Reach oak and balanced by just River Chardonnayflavoursome palate with a Reserve Swan Valley the right amount of acid 2007 HHHHlong, lingering and very firm Chardonnay 2008 HHHH and some phenolics adding Intense lime and citrusphenolic finish. $33.95 Big, complex wine with a complexity. $44.99 aromas - quite a complex powerful hit of oak showing nose. Velvety-smooth on aBarwick Estates through the peachy aromas. Edwards Margaret palate full of creamy peachBlack Label Margaret Soft and creamy in the River Chardonnay and cashew flavours. $38 CDRiver Chardonnay mouth. Well made - all it 2007 HHHH1/22008 HHHH1/2 needs is time. $28 Nice nutty number with chardonnayComplex aromas tending Fraser Gallop Estate excellent, lively lemon and 2006 & olderto the savoury end of the Margaret River lemongrass-like varietal fruitspectrum and showing a Chardonnay 2008 HHHH that is seamlessly integrated peachy on the nose andlight lime lift. More limes Big wine that needs to do with charry oak, bright, crisp fleshy and flavoursome in theand lemons appear on time in the cellar. Heaps of acidity and malo creaminess. mouth, with excellent oak Leeuwin Estatethe creamy palate - very fruit and oak on the nose Art Series Margaretflavoursome and with great and loads of character to the 3-5 $32 integration. 3-5 $24 River Chardonnayoverall structure. $19.95 palate. Very flavoursome. $30 Woodside ValleyXanadu Dragon Matilda’s Vineyard Estate Le Bas Margaret Jane Brook Margaret 2005 HHHHHMargaret River Western Australia River Chardonnay River Chardonnay Lovely zesty melon andUnoaked Chardonnay Chardonnay 2008 HHHH 2007 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHH peach bouquet. Palate2008 HHHH Simple, peachy nose with Lively, complex wine Perfect integration and has weight and excellentVery elegant wine with a faint hint of spice. Soft showing some winemaker lovely persistence of citrus/ balance, shows a nice tight,perfumed, figgy aromas and and juicy in the mouth, with influence. Has everything melon fruit, cashew oak silky structure and is filledcrisp fig, lemon and melon nice nutty oak and warming - peach and lime fruit, nutty and crisp, fresh, tight acid. with intense sweet lemonflavours on a background alcoholic finish. $35 cashew oak and creamy Slightly hot from the level of flavours well supported byof phenolics. Slightly drying Houghton Wisdom malo, all nicely wrapped in alcohol. $35 oak and acid. 2-3 $105finish. $16 Western Australia bright, lifted acidity. $48 Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Wills Domain Barking Owl Western Big, oaky nose layered with Margaret River Australia Chardonnay fruit underneath. Complex Chardonnay 2007 HHHH 2006 HHHH palate overpowered by acid Peaches on the nose, with Simple, citrusy varietal and phenolics - for now - but subtle, sandalwood-like oak. smelling of peaches with cellar it and be rewarded in Excellent flavour depth and a subtle touch of oak. the future. $32 intensity. Palate has weight Sweetish palate has good and structure. Well-made concentration of citrus dry white style. $60 flavours that taper towards Chalice Bridge the end. 2-3 $18.21 Margaret River Chardonnay 2007 HHHH Lost Lake Barrel St Aidan Geographe Lightly aromatic bouquet Selection Pemberton Chardonnay 2006 HHHH with some limes and some Chardonnay 2007 HHHH Fleshy fig aromas with a lemons. Sweet citrus fruit Fresh, clean and minerally nice nuttiness, and a juicy flavours with a subtle oaky on the nose. Very good citrus/melon palate that’s edge, crisp acid and hot, palate, rich with flavour from fine, long and complex, with lingering alcoholic finish. blending of charry oak and interesting phenolics on the residual sugar with the big finish. 5+ $20 3-5 $25.95 peachy/melon fruit. $35 Vasse Felix Heytesbury Margaret River Chardonnay 2007 HHHH Lovely rich, soft and creamy wine with ripe chardonnay fruit on the nose and nice long, textured palate with good flavour intensity and length. $45122 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 western australiaForester Estate Paul Conti The Tuarts Amberley MargaretMargaret River Tempranillo 2007 HHHH River Cabernet MerlotChardonnay 2006 HHHH Tarry, coffee-like aromas 2007 HHHHLong, soft, spicy, citrusy - almost leathery. Vibrant Obvious oak on the nosechardonnay with some combo of chocolate, but there’s brooding fruittropicals on the nose and molasses and redcurrant evident too. Lovely long,nutty citrus flavours mingling fruit flavours nicely ripe, sweet fruit flavourswith a background of charry supported by oak and firm wrapped up in long, velvetyoak. 5+ $27 acidity. $16 tannins. $22.50Wise Reserve Pemberton Windance Margaret Brookland ValleyChardonnay 2006 HHHH River Merlot 2007 HHHH Margaret River CabernetRich, golden wine with Soft, easy-drinking wine Merlot 2005 HHHHattractive, spicy grapefruit filled with lovely up-front Still youthful - a little funkyaromas and flavours. Palate sweet plummy fruit with on the nose and with a big,long and tight and has Lost Lake Barrel some spicy oak poking full-flavoured Christmasan interesting phenolic Selection Pemberton through. Tight structure. cake palate layered withbackbone. 3-5 $35 Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH Nice drink. $25 lovely velvety tannins. Has Interesting mix of licorice Ferngrove Estate years ahead of it yet. $21Voyager Estate and stewed fruit aromas. Frankland River Merlot Moss Brothers Wilyabrup Deep Woods EstateMargaret River Very flavoursome, with good 2008 HHHH Margaret River Cabernet Margaret RiverChardonnay 2006 HHHH palate weight – it’s rich and Intriguing, ‘sexy’ aromas Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet SauvignonSubdued aromas with well balanced, with firm like coffee, mint and cassis. 2005 HHHH Merlot 2007 HHHHslightly savoury edges. phenolics. $35 Lovely lifted varietal fruit on Good varietal fruit weight “A cracker of a wine,” saidSoft in the mouth, with a creamy-textured palate. and intensity. Attractive one judge. Dense, super-sweet lemon flavours nicely Firm tannins. Impressive minty aromas followed by a ripe aromas and beautifullybacked by some good oak. wine. $18.95 well-structured, seductive silky-smooth palate rich and flavoursome palate with with sweet dark berry fruit 5+ $42 great texture. $35 flavours. Very young. $28.15Lenton Brae cabernet sauvignonMargaret RiverChardonnay 2006 HHHHLovely wine with beautifulcool-grown chardonnay fruit,barrel ferment creaminess,spicy charry oak and crispacidity with a slightly greenend. 3-5 $43.87other red varietalsPalandri The Estates cabernet blendsWestern AustraliaMerlot 2007 HHHH1/2 Ferngrove Orchid Series Goundrey G Barwick EstatesDeep, dark red wine King Frankland River Western Australia The Collectablesthat’s a serious, top-end Malbec 2007 HHHH Cabernet Tempranillo Blackwood Valleymerlot brimming over Lovely violet hues to the 2007 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignonwith beautifully ripe fruit, colour and dense inky/oaky Very classy, serious blend 2007 HHHH1/2sweet, well-handled oak aromas on the nose. Rich with perfect fruit ripeness Big, full-bodied wine that’sand showing great overall and chocolaty palate with and top-quality oak. Loads still a baby and will needstructure. “Yep!” was one layers of mulberry fruit. Well of flavour power through heaps more time to reachcomment! $17.95 made. $29.95 the palate. Now all it needs its potential. Has bagsWatershed Shades Lion Mill Vineyards is some time in the cellar to of fruit flavour, massiveMargaret River Rose Perth Hills Zinfandel really shine. $21.50 tannins and excellent oak to2008 HHHH 2007 HHHH balance. $34.95Bright pink with fragrant Christmas pudding aromasfloral bouquet and simple, followed by ripe, musky Merops Ornatus Frog Belly Margaretraspberry lolly flavours along flavours on an elegant palate Margaret River Cabernet River Cabernetthe palate. Perfect balance with fine, chalky tannins and Cabernet Franc Merlot Sauvignon 2008 HHHHbetween sweetness and good overall balance. $35 CD 2004 HHHH Beautiful, luscious wine withacidity. $16.95 “Sublime,” enthused one lovely bright blackcurrantMatilda’s Vineyard judge. “A very gentle claret fruit well integrated withWestern Australia style of wine with no frills intense cedary oak and greatPinot Noir 2007 HHHH but delivers class.” Ageing tannin structure. LovelyNice spicy oak influence on well and has lots of life left softness in the mouth. $20the strawberry jam nose. in it yet. $22Good palate structure,attractive raspberry flavours,nice tannins and good acidlength. $35 Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 123

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 western australiaFraser Gallop Estate Harewood Estate Capel Vale Whispering Jane Brook AtkinsonWilyabrup Margaret Great Southern Shiraz Hill Single Vineyard Family Reserve WesternRiver Cabernet Cabernet 2007 HHHH Series Mount Barker Australia ShirazSauvignon 2007 HHHH Seductive inky/floral Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHHYoung and promising, with combination of aromas, Intense, bold and alluring dark “A mouthful of pleasure,” saidcontrolled dark berry aromas and classic palate with berry nose, “Makes you want one judge. Floral, perfumedthat have a ‘mystical’ lifted black jubey flavours. to investigate further,” noted aromas and wonderfulsavoury edge. Obvious Elegant, yet slightly ‘tarty’, one judge. Dynamic black concentration of jubey fruitquality fruit on rich, warm wine. $19.95 and blue berry fruit palate flavours. Great with foodpalate. $30 Hay Shed Hill Margaret with luscious mouthfeel. A - divine on its own! $50 River Shiraz Tempranillo stunner! $49.95 2007 HHHH Wise Western Australia Moondah Brook Xabregas Show Reserve Nose brooding with black Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Western Australia Great Southern Shiraz tar and redcurrant aromas. Powerful, full-bodied Shiraz 2007 HHHH 2007 HHHH Palate shows elegance and wine. Lovely caramel Full-bodied wine with tons Big, dark, dense blockbuster has Christmas cake fruit concentration on the of tannins. Dark and tarry with amazing colour. layered with soft, velvety nose with jammy notes. on the nose. Sweet and Tarry/peppery aromas and tannins and oak. $20 Generous, dense, sweet fruity in the mouth - very concentrated blackberry brambly fruit flavours and flavoursome and with well- fruit flavours, velvety tanninsWoodlands Colin Western Range Wines plenty of pepper. Great balanced oak. $18 and spices. $28Margaret River Julimar Shiraz Viognier future. $19 Watershed SensesCabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHHH Ferngrove Orchid Series Margaret River Shiraz2005 HHHHH Almost magenta colour, this Wignalls Albany Dragon Frankland River 2005 HHHHCherry red wine with garnet wine has a very ripe, liqueur- Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2007 HHHH “Still screaming in itshues. “A super wine that’s like nose and magnificent Intense, cool climate style Warm, generous style with nappies!” Varnishy oakall class.” said one judge. balance between top-notch, with everything in perfect over-the-top caramelly nose - will improve. PalatePerfect varietal fruit/oak super-ripe fruit, velvety balance and time on its oak taking over, but it’s showing all the right flavoursintegration supported by tannins and oak. $28.50 side. Lifted, peppery nose complemented by some of blackcurrant, cherries andbeautiful velvety tannins with a dash of spice and lovely cool climate mulberry- cardamom. $24.95and a long, smooth finish. shiraz more white pepper on the like fruit. $29.95 Sandalford Estate“Outstanding.” $105 molasses-like palate. $21 Harewood Estate Reserve Margaret River Jane Brook Back Block Great Southern Shiraz Shiraz 2005 HHHHshiraz blends Houghton Wisdom Western Australia 2007 HHHH Good example of older style Frankland River Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Delicious wine with lovely shiraz. Nose is a “ChristmasHoughton The Bandit 2005 HHHH1/2 Smells of raspberries and mocha aromas and perfectly pudding delight”, accordingWestern Australia Classic Australian shiraz cherries with a slight herbal ripened black jubey fruit to one judge. Leathery/cigarShiraz Tempranillo - very fresh style. Ripe, edge. Great palate - dark, flavours on a silky-smooth box palate with tons of life2007 HHHH brooding, spicy fruit bouquet deep and spicy with very up- palate. Excellent by any left. $33.95Soft, approachable, and a beauty of a palate front fruit, oak evident but in standards. $29.95easy-drinking wine with with lashings of raisined balance and lovely creamystraightforward, ripe forest fruit, quality oak and lovely mouthfeel. $25floor fruits, firm acid/tannin velvety tannins. $32 Y Wines Margaret Riverbalance and lovely overall Windows Margaret River Shiraz 2007 HHHHstructure. $19.95 Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 “Sexy wine - has the X Highly perfumed nose which factor,” noted one judge. has almost a citrus character. Eclectic range of spice Gorgeous, youthful palate aromas and complex and has everything, including enjoyable Christmas cake/ a slight funkiness to add black pepper palate. $13.99 character. “Delicious,” said one judge. $22 star ratings Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 158. Recommended cellaring (years).124 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

From above. In 1955 Professor Harold Olmo from the University of California enthusiastically recommended the Great Southern region for table wine grapes, especially the area around Mt Barker & Frankland River. Air from the Indian and Southern oceans minimizes extremes in temperature whilst the roaring forties winds ensure the ocean influence penetrates well inland. The winds create a dry and less humid environment within the vine canopy that reduces incidence of disease.How do Ferngrovemake such great winesfrom Frankland RiverIt all depends how you look at it. From below The gravel soil of the region has thermal qualities that absorb and transmit heat to the vine roots, and provide a different micro climate which promotes greater retainment of natural acidity and minerality. Vine growth is controlled by the soil and the gravel of WA lends itself well to supplying micro-nutrients yet suppressing vigour. To experience the great taste of Ferngrove wine visit your local liquor outlet or ring 08 9363 1300 for stockists. bcells18154

Sirromet cellar door.queensland THE BEST WINES OF 2009 CONTENTS Includes: Sparkling, Other White Varietals, Chardonnay, Other Red Varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends, Shiraz, Sweet White & Fortified.

ALTERNATIVE ACCOLADES The Queensland year in review, by Paula TewksburyI N YET another progressive year for the Queensland wine industry in 2009, shiraz from vineyards in the South Burnett and the Granite Belt. It wasn’t the Granite Belt has gone from strength to strength with its Strange Bird a competition but a comparison. Mark Ravenscroft spoke on behalf of alternative wine varietals and Alternative Wine Trail. the two Granite Belt wines, the 2009 Ravens Croft and the Sirromet 820º The 26th Annual Queensland Wine Awards in October introduced two new above, while Manda Duffy hailed the virtues of the Barambah wine andtrophies for the top alternative reds and whites. The winning white was a 2009 Kieran Carney described the 2009 Clovely White Label Verdelho. Mercureviognier from Ocean Views Estates in the Somerset Valley, a winery that’s Brisbane chef Richard Mellor produced cinnamon-dusted Moreton Bayabout an hour’s drive north-west of Brisbane and offers picturesque views bug with pumpkin puree and micro basil, along with Kingaroy brie andand a restaurant. arancini balls with balsamic reduction to match the verdelhos, with slow braised beef cheek and mushroom pie and Peking duck gow gee, and While other grape varieties have lost market share, viognier has grown Sauternes sauce with fennel and apple salad for the shiraz-based wines.in sales and production. Sirromet’s Seven Scenes Viognier 2008 won the The verdelhos were the surprise of the class, showing diversity andPremier’s Trophy in June and the Albert River Poinciana Viognier 2007 and complexity in all four wines.Symphony Hill 2008 Wild Child Viognier are both silver medal winners, whileSummit Estate won silver with its 2009 Marsanne Roussanne Viognier. The The styles masterclass was one of the 16 wine and food matching classes atRhone Rangers are certainly out in full force in Queensland. the 2009 Brisbane Fine Wine Festival in June. Sixteen chefs, 62 winemakers and wine marketers and 130 wines came together to educate and entertain In the alternative red varietals class, the tempranillos stood out, with Tobin 500 enthusiasts.Wines winning the trophy with its 2009 Jacob Tempranillo, closely followedby Golden Grove Estates 2008 Tempranillo and 2008 Malbec, while on equal The Mercure hotels across Australia held a survey in September which provedpoints was the Clovely Estate 2007 Left Field Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre. rewarding for the Queensland wine industry. The group has a specialist grandsThe Hidden Creek Tempranillo also got a gong. vins selection which features 10 wines from the state of each Mercure hotel. The Queensland survey resulted in a 100 per cent satisfaction rating for all A new varietal being grown on the Granite Belt is gewurztraminer, with ‘local’ wines consumed by national and international travellers.Mark Ravenscroft and Peter Orr both producing 2009 wines that havewon medals. Peter is a southerner who has arrived with an extensive The South Burnett’s inaugural Vine Dining 2009 on the Barambah Winewinemaking background in the Hunter Valley. A former president of the Trail at Moffatdale in August proved an overwhelming success. BrisbaneUpper Hunter Winemakers Association, he has left all that behind to and Sunshine Coast chefs made the trip to produce their signature dishespurchase the long-established Felsberg Winery at Glen Aplin and move matched to the best wines from Barambah Wines, Clovely Estate andto the Granite Belt with his wife Karen and their two young sons. He’s Bridgeman Downs. P.J McMillan from the James St Harveys Bistro and Barproducing a riesling and the Belltower Gewurztraminer, along with other worked his magic at Barambah Wines, David Pugh from Restaurant II wasmainstream varietals. on deck at Bridgeman Downs and Matt Golinkski from Rolling Dolmades, Ready Steady Cook was at Clovely Estate. Martin Duncan from Freestyle Peter is also running ‘A Weekend of Wine’ - an understanding and blending Tout did a great job matching sweet sensations with the dessert wines ofcourse at Felsberg, where participants can learn about wine, with the end result the region. Around 450 guests attended the event.of blending their own styles and testing them with food. It’s not a technicalclass but one that offers first-hand understanding of wine components. The On another tack, Sirromet has tapped into Queensland’s love of the greatstudents get to bottle a dozen of their own blend with their own labels. outdoors by producing two wines in plastic PET bottles - ideal for taking on a boat, to the beach, camping and fishing. The ‘First Step’ 2005 Cabernet Witches Falls has a new varietal on its list of successful wines: the 2009 Merlot and 2008 Unwooded Chardonnay in these virtually unbreakable,Queensland Fiano, a southern Italian varietal grown on the slopes inland from lightweight 750ml bottles costing $12 were released at the start of 2009Mt Tambourine, which also won silver at the wine awards. and are now being seen and used all over Queensland. Sirromet claims every element of this wine’s packaging has been carefully considered for The Queensland favourite, verdelho, has also received accolades in its environmental footprint - hence the name ‘First Step’. I compared the2009. It’s now considered a mainstream varietal in a state where very same wine from glass and plastic masked at the cellar door recently andfew wineries don’t produce it, and often in wine shows verdelhos and couldn’t tell the difference.chardonnays compete for the top trophies. A perfect example of this wasthe Queensland Styles Masterclass featuring four verdelhos and four Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 127

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 queenslandsparkling other white varietals other red varietals Golden Grove Estate Granite Belt Tempranillo 2008 HHHH Clean, fresh and very minty Pyramids Road style. Some berries and Granite Belt Mourvedre spices on the nose and good 2008 HHHHH flow of varietal fruit across Dark, brooding purple colour the palate, with nice level of with big, ripe aromas; tannins. 3-5 $22 Jimbour Ludwig jammy fruits mingle with Leichhardt Reserve licorice characters. Big and Symphony Hill Wines Granite Belt juicy in the mouth, with Reserve Granite Belt Chardonnay 2008 HHHH good fruit weight, clean acid Merlot 2006 HHHH Fruit aromas with complex and firm tannins. $30 Mix of berries and tomato wild ferment-like characters. Big, creamy palate has Symphony Hill bush-like characters on the buttery hints, nutty notes and nose. Vibrant palate - verySirromet Granite Belt honeyed development. $28.99 Wines Reserve fleshy and minty and withSparkling PV Sirromet 820 Above Granite Belt Petit2007 HHHH Granite Belt Verdelho Verdot 2007 HHHHH good length of spicy plum flavours. 3-5 $25Lovely rose pink colour. 2008 HHHH1/2 Settlers Rise Floral, fruity bouquet with aToasty nose with yeasty Fragrant tropical fruit hint of mint and a big, tanniccomplexity and crisp, nose with a nice spritzig Reserve Granite Belt palate that has loads of fruit, cabernet sauvignon Chardonnay 2008 HHHH & blendslemony palate that has a character. Sweet and juicy Complex, savoury aromas. good acidity, excellent oak andlovely acid structure and in the mouth, with great alcohol, balanced with a fruit-crisp finish. 3-5 $20 tropical fruit drive and lifted, Very oaky palate - on the driven finish. 5+ $45 warm side - but a nice lift of floral, perfumed notes. melon fruit and some nutty Some short-term cellaring Golden Grove Estate potential. 1-2 $17 notes. 3-5 $29 Granite Belt Durif Clovely Estate White 2008 HHHH1/2 Label South Burnett Aromatic, porty nose and Verdelho 2009 HHHH perfectly balanced palate with Pleasant white peach an explosion of blueberry aromas with creamy lees fruit that fills the mouth with complexity and up-front flavour. Great fruit tannins a tropical fruit flavours with tad grippy. 5+ $28 some very well handled acid to balance. $13 Golden Grove Estate Granite Belt Barbera Heritage Estate 2008 HHHH Granite Belt Semillon Sweet cherry aromas 2009 HHHH mix with elegant savoury Zippy lemon lift to the characters. Perfumed dark Jester Hill Wines cherry flavours fill the palate Touchstone Granite Belt herbal/green bean nose. and fine tannins balance it. Cabernet Sauvignon Nicely textured lemon citrus palate with good mouthfeel 3-5 $20 2007 HHHHH and a lingering finish. Has Golden Grove Estate Elegant yet quite intense crushed leaf and berry potential. 3-5 $20 Granite Belt Malbec bouquet. Clean and fresh inSirromet Seven 2008 HHHHScenes Granite Belt Hidden Creek Dense, powerful plum/ the mouth, with lovely cassisChardonnay Pinot Noir Granite Belt Viognier flavours, a tannic backbone2006 HHHH 2008 HHHH leather aromas and a robust and fleshy mouthfeel. AComplexity of herbal/ Smells of apricots and musk palate that explodes withblackcurrant aromas with a sticks. Seductive viscosity on perfumed blueberry fruit keeper. 5+ $18minty note. Spicy/dark berry the palate, with attractive dried Sirromet Sevenflavour. Freshness and good apricot flavours and honeyed Scenes Granite Belt and is supported by drying Heritage Estate Reserveresidual sugar sweetness. aged characters. $22 Chardonnay 2008 HHHH tannins. 5+ $26 Unfiltered Granite Belt Surprisingly developed Cabernet Sauvignon 3-5 $27 honeyed aromas for a Rimfire Darling Downs 2007 HHHH1/2 one-year-old. Creamy in Touriga Nacional Big berry bomb of a nose. the mouth, with flavours of 2005 HHHH Compact, tannic palate has chardonnay melons and nuts. Nice acid Developed spicy, tarry warming alcohol and lots of and tannins. $27 bouquet and very tannic toasty oak to balance the palate with a good balance perfumed fruit with its minty between varietal fruit, acidity notes. $30 Clovely Estate and alcohol. 3-5 $24 Reserve South Burnett Chardonnay Hidden Creek 2007 HHHH1/2 Granite Belt Tempranillo Pleasant white peach aromas 2007 HHHH show a lovely creamy lees Mid-purple, slightly jammy complexity. Up-front tropical wine with a hint of menthol fruit flavours on the palate, and some pretty powerful with some well-handled acid tannins. Has texture and to balance. $28 length and also elegance. $22128 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009Ambar Hill Samuel Bailey Clovely Estate Reserve Clovely Estate Reserve wine-arkCabernet Sauvignon South Burnett Cabernet South Burnett ShirazMerlot 2007 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2007 HHHH 2007 HHHHNose smells like a mixture of Slightly porty blackcurrant Big, jubey style with alicorice, spice, menthol and nose with a menthol edge, savoury hit of olives.blackcurrants. Big, jammy and fleshy, jammy palate Nice balance of fragrantpalate has excellent tannin that has plenty of length and dark chocolate and livelyripeness and balancing great texture. 1-2 $28 blackberry flavours withalcohol. 5+ $19 mouth-puckering tannins. $28 shiraz Clovely Estate Double Pruned South Burnett Ambar Hill Shiraz 2006 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHHH “A very moreish wine,” Lovely deep red hues and a thought one judge. Smells generous bouquet of peppery of coconut, olives and fruit mingling with charry mulberries and has a fleshy, oak. Sweet, fleshy, peppery/ jammy palate with plenty of tannic grip. $60 blackberry flavours lifted by Bridgeman Downs the tannins. 5+ $19 South Burnett Shiraz 2005 HHHH Powerful aged shiraz that still has vibrancy, elegant varietal fruit, loads of tannin, nice leathery complexity and plenty of sweet oak. 3-5 $26Ridgemill Estate WINEPedigree Granite Belt Settlers Rise Reserve STORAGECabernet Malbec Merlot Darling Downs Shiraz SERVICES2008 HHHH1/2 2005 HHHHElegant and beautifully Minty menthol lift to both the • ADELAIDEstructured deep purple pretty berry bouquet and the • BRISBANEwine with a bouquet like youthful berry palate, with • MELBOURNEnettles and wildflowers, lovely length of fine tannins • PERTHfollowed by a gravelly Barambah First Grid in support. 3-5 $35 • SUNSHINE COAST South Burnett Shiraz • SYDNEYpalate with gentle floral 2007 HHHH1/2fruit flavours. 3-5 $25 Established in 1999, Wine Ark Big, sweet raspberry aromas sweet white & fortified is Australia’s largest and most with good oak handling recommended wine storageJester Hill Wines obvious. Loads of tannins on provider. Our state of the artGranite Belt Merlot a palate that’s brimming over storage facilities have setCabernet Petit Verdot with ripe berry flavours and Barambah Rack Dried international benchmarks and2007 HHHH sweet oak. 3-5 $32 South Burnett Semillon allowed us to develop one ofScented berry bouquet leads 2007 HHHH1/2 the most respected brandsto a fresh and simple palate Golden wine with intense within the industry.with very intense, powdery tropical/citrus bouquet thattannins and lovely ripe, is still very fresh. Sweet, For more information pleasechewy fruit flavours. $18 soft and very flavoursome call us toll free on palate with lovely viscousPyramids Road Bernie’s mouthfeel. $24 1800 111 275Blend Granite Belt Red Golden Grove Estate2007 HHHH Granite Belt Vintage Port www.wine-ark.com.auElegant, juicy wine with a 2005 (500ml) HHHHlovely lifted fruit bouquet and Vibrant nougat andcomplex sweet oak palate chocolate bouquet andwith chewy fruit flavours powerful chocolaty palateshowing a jammy edge. $35 with lovely nutty rancio characters and lifted byPyramids Road some good fresh spirit. $20Granite Belt CabernetSauvignon 2007 HHHHElegant style with apleasant floral blackcurrantfruit bouquet and Cypress Post 6000‘polished’, vibrant varietal Granite Belt Syrahfruit flavours that linger on 2006 HHHHand on. 3-5 $25 Spicy, Rhone-like style with a complexity of toasty oak and raspberry aromas. Palate has spicy red fruits with crisp balancing acidity. 3-5 $18.50 wineark_thirdv.indd 1 Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 129 9/12/07 8:41:45 PM

Moorilla Vineyards.tasmania THE BEST WINES OF 2009 CONTENTS Includes: Sparkling, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Other Red Varietals, Sweet White.

ISLAND OF PROMISE The Tasmanian year in review, by Graeme PhillipsW HILE drought, record heatwaves, bushfires and smoke taint to Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane; the movement to Tasmania of a number ravaged the 2009 grape harvest in many parts of the mainland, of young, mainland winemakers; and the emergence of the next home-grown in Tasmania it was spring frosts, cold, windy days during generation of winemakers whose energy and talents will drive the future.December flowering and a much cooler than average summer and autumnripening season that produced a crop some 30 per cent down on the record Three of these younger hot-shot winemakers were this year nominated10,000-tonne harvest of 2008. among the 12 national finalists in Wine Australia’s inaugural Young Gun Wine Awards, the most nominations from any state. They were Jeremy While some saw 2009 as an exceptionally late vintage, others viewed it as Dineen from Josef Chromy Wines, Anna Pooley of Heemskerk and Shanea return to what was a normal season during the ’80s, ’90s and early 2000s. Holloway at Delamere.Climate change or not, vintage variation remains a fact of life in Tasmania. For Tasmania to have a quarter of the nominees in a national competition As the grapes came in, one of the state’s most experienced winemakers when it produces less than one per cent of Australia’s wine suggests thesaid chardonnay was “fantastic”, sparkling fruit “good” and sauvignon state is punching well above its weight. This was in some way confirmedblanc was showing “lovely flavours and lively acidity” - comments that were when the winner of the Young Guns Award, Dr Colin McBryde, a winemakerechoed by other winemakers around the state, particularly in reference to from South Australia’s Clare Valley, surprised everyone at the awards dinnerthe excellence of the riesling fruit. by declaring that he had his eye on Tasmania as one of the most exciting frontiers in Australian winemaking at the moment. “In all my years, the riesling this year was the best I’ve ever seen,” one said.“It was stunning. Crop levels were perfect, the flavours really exciting” - a view As part of the Wine Communicators of Australia Lecture Series, Felicityborne out at the latest Royal Hobart International Wine Show, where Tasmanian Carter earlier this year delivered an address in which she highlighted two2009 rieslings were awarded the only gold medals of the 69 Australian and things she believed the Australian industry needed to do to help turn thingsNZ wines entered. Overall, five of the nine golds in the various riesling classes around: urgently communicate its regional distinctiveness to the world; andwent to Tasmania. recognise that wine is as much a cultural artefact as it is a drink, that the actual taste of wine can be much less important than the images and associations For pinot noir, the vintage was a little more mixed. For this early budding variety, that accompany it.the cool, windy weeks of early December caused poor flowering and fruit setin many vineyards, resulting in small crops of small, incomplete bunches with For many of the state’s leading producers, this is where Tasmania comesmuch of the fruit at differing stages of ripeness. The flip side was that the cooler in, where they see the local industry having the opportunity to sidestep manyweather meant fruit acids remained high, there were no disease problems and of the wider Australian industry’s problems and forge a clear and separatethe smaller bunches and berries have resulted in deeper colours and flavour identity of its own.concentration in the finished wines. In barrel, they’re looking good. As much as cool climate, environment and unique regional terroirs, it’s this At the Hobart show, seven of the nine gold medals for pinot noir went congruity of messages and images in the state’s food, wine, art, music, design,to Tasmania, with the top wine, the 2008 Home Hill, being pipped for the tourism and other industries that, in Felicity Carter’s terms, makes Tasmaniachampionship trophy by the 2007 Villa Maria Estate Single Vineyard Taylors ideally positioned and needing to exploit that advantage in its promotionalPass from New Zealand. and marketing efforts. Of more long-term significance, and despite the vintage difficulties, 2009 It’s a message that the Tasmanian Government has picked up, reinforcedwas a year when the Tasmanian industry seemed to grow in confidence and by recent statistics which show that one in every five of the almost one millionshow signs of a new maturity, consolidation and directional focus - things that tourists to the state each year now visit a winery cellar door; that 30 per cent ofhad previously largely been missing. the state’s wine production is now being exported; and, somewhat belatedly, in recognition that Tasmania’s 234 vineyards, 29 wineries, 62 cellar doors What helped was to see the demand and prices paid for Tasmanian and the spin-off activities associated with the industry are major sources ofchardonnay and pinot noir fruit, for both table and sparkling base wines, increase regional development and employment.again from their previous record highs. And to see some of the bigger mainlandplayers expanding their fruit purchasing and vineyard operations in the state; Is Tasmania the flavour of the future? Does the industry have it all wrappedmore mainland producers introducing a range of Tasmanian labels to their up and sussed? Not yet by a long shot - but it’s way ahead from where it wasportfolios; the success of the Tasmania Unbottled roadshow during the year just five years ago and the future looks more promising than ever. Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 131

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 tasmaniasparkling sauvignon blanc riesling Moores Hill Estate chardonnay Tasmania RieslingJansz Tasmania Sugarloaf Ridge Brook Eden 2008 HHHH1/2 MeadowbankSparkling Cuvee Tasmania Sauvignon Pipers Brook Tasmania Some excellent aged Grace ElizabethNV HHHH1/2 Blanc 2008 HHHHH Riesling 2008 HHHHH characters starting to Tasmania ChardonnayPale golden sparkling with Gorgeous wine with Excellent citrus freshness - develop and adding 2005 HHHH1/2a distinctive butterscotch- excellent weight of varietal very flavoursome wine. Just complexity to the wine, but Lovely soft and flavoursomelike character showing on fruit sitting in the tropical the right balance between it is still carrying lovely citrus wine that’s rich and long andthe nose and which follows end of the flavour spectrum. fruit sweetness and crisp, freshness as well. $30 layered with excellent creamythrough onto the reasonably Silky-smooth in the mouth mouth-puckering acidity. Bream Creek barrel ferment characters andlong, fruit-filled palate. $24.95 and has a delightful overall Beautiful example of a cool- VGR Tasmania varietal fruit. Has everythingRiversdale Estate Crux richness. $25 climate riesling. $25 Riesling 2008 HHHH going for it. $36.50Coal River Tasmania Nandroya Tasmania Bream Creek Tasmania Nose still tight but has quite aSparkling NV HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Riesling 2007 HHHHH zing. Fresh and flavoursome Barringwood ParkFresh and clean; long and 2007 HHHHH Very attractive clean, fresh, in the mouth, good palate Northbank Tasmaniaelegant. Delightful wine with Powerful and Germanic style with lovely weight and excellent fruit Chardonnayexcellent balance of aromas developed style. Some lime-like fruit edged with sweetness. $23 CD 2008 HHHH1/2and flavours and finishing pleasant spiciness and pretty, floral characters and Meadowbank Pleasant, delicate nose withquite firm with lingering herbaceousness around the showing some sweetness. FGR Tasmania Riesling underlying level of varietalacidity. $43.99 CM edges, with everything in Excellent flavour length that 2008 HHHH fruit aromas. Palate has someJansz Tasmania seamless balance. $25 goes on and on. $23 CD Lively and fruity wine with a apple-like characters withSparkling Cuvee Rose Nocton Park Frogmore Creek touch of residual sweetness a marmalade edge. ToastyNV HHHH Tasmania Sauvignon Tasmania Riesling to fill it out and good level vanillin oak and good level ofPretty, pale salmon wine Blanc 2007 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHHH of complex citrus/lime acidity. Needs time. $28with a floral lift to the nose Fuller, richer style with Another lovely Germanic characters with quite an Nocton Park Tasmaniaand offering a wonderful good doses of sweaty and style - slightly spritzig, with unusual finish. $31 Chardonnay 2006 HHHHmouthful of elegant and developing varietal fruit beautiful fruit and starting to Moorilla Muse Tasmania Lovely concoction of oystervery persistent simple, crisp characters. Good balance show some delicious toasty/ Riesling 2008 HHHH shells, nectarines and driedflavours. $24.95 between fruit and acidity. honeyed development. A “Seems older than it is,” figs. Good palate weight and Some complexity. Very good touch sweet. Delightful noted one judge. A touch length - quite sweet, with aother white varietals wine. $24 wine. $24 broad in the mouth, with lively acid backbone. $24 Bay of Fires Leo Buring DWL20 excellent intensity of citrus Humbug Reach TamarMoorilla Muse Tasmania Tasmania Sauvignon Leopold Tamar Valley flavours, a hint of spiciness River TasmaniaGewurztraminer Blanc 2008 HHHH Riesling 2008 HHHH1/2 and a drying finish. $35 Chardonnay 2008 HHHH2008 HHHH Powerful, pungent, sweaty Lively floral aromatics fill Bay of Fires Tasmania Smoky nose with a bright,Delightfully perfumed aromas. fruit but it’s in balance. Quite the nose, with more floral Riesling 2008 HHHH spicy lift. Very good level ofQuite oily in the mouth, with New Zealand-like without intensity filling the palate Interesting ginger and vanillin oak, well matchedlovely varietal fruit flavour being over the top. $30 with flavour. Excellent lemongrass-like characters by lingering fruit flavours.intensity that builds up Moorilla Muse varietal fruit starting to with some sweet/sour Has somewhere to go in thetowards the finish. $35 Tasmania Sauvignon develop some secondary notes. Complex yet fresh future. $32Lalla Gully Tasmania Blanc 2008 HHHH characters. $39.99 and slightly spritzig. $36 Bay of Fires TasmaniaPinot Gris 2008 HHHH Rich, fruity style with some Pressing Matters Craigow Tasmania Chardonnay 2007 HHHHDelightfully lively and fresh toasty development evolving R9 Tasmania Riesling Riesling 2006 HHHH Toast and marmalade-likestyle with fresh, apple-skin and appears to have a slight 2008 HHHH1/2 Lovely aged riesling style. characters fill the nose andcrispness. Perfect seamless feral character - “maybe Smells like rose petals with Excellent flavour profile palate. Creamy palate isbalance of all elements and from wild yeast”, suggested just a sprinkling of talcum - some attractive, honeyed/ quite wooded but carries theoffering excellent lingering one judge. $30 powder-like characters. toasty bottle age developing varietal fruit. $38flavours. $25 Some very attractive varietal and yet still appears very Providence MadameMoorilla Muse fruit flavours starting to fresh. $25 Miguet ReserveTasmania Pinot Gris evolve nicely, balanced by Tasmania Chardonnay2008 HHHH good acid. $29 2005 HHHHLight, musky and fruity Riversdale Estate Coal Beautifully structured,bouquet. Good weight River Tasmania Riesling golden wine. Quite spirityand length of varietal fruit 2008 HHHH1/2 nose and lovely palatethat shows the faintest Lovely musky varietal fruit interwoven with flavours ofhint of bananas. Lovely with a delicate floral-like nectarine and grapefruit withmouthfeel. $35 edge. Long and balanced quality oak. $28 palate with incredible flavour length. Some sweetness evident. $21.99 CM132 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009pinot noir Pressing Matters Coal Craigow Tasmania One River Tasmania Pinot Pinot Noir 2005 HHHH sGahloolotidtis Noir 2007 HHHH Bright and lively pinot with takes! Young and spicy wine with exceptionally intense colour, good intensity of complex excellent soft, varietal, A bad bottle shot can undo all the good work varietal fruit well blended spicy and black cherry fruit that goes into the passionate making and with rather assertive wood. characters and plenty of branding of a bottle of wine. Needs time. $39 tannic grip. $30 At Wellcom, we have provenPooley Vineyards Bream Creek Tasmania other red varietals expertise to shoot your wine andCoal River Valley Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH deliver premium imagery that willTasmania Pinot Noir Complex spicy, sweet/sour Moorilla Muse Tasmania2007 HHHHH cherry fruit mingles with Syrah 2007 HHHH suit all applications.Lovely creamy wine with all subtle spicy oak. Seamless Soft fennel/tarragon-likeits components in perfect palate well structured with greenness with good dose of Our highly skilled and experienedbalance - lovely cherry/plum- layers of flavour and fine bright blackberry fruit behind photographers and graphic artistslike fruit, drying tannins and tannins. $28 CD and plenty of quality spicycrisp acidity. $35 Josef Chromy Tasmania oak spine in support. $45 use only state-of-the-art digitalProvidence Black Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH technology to ensure that yourReserve Tasmania Pinot Deep red colour. Lovely sweet whiteNoir 2008 HHHH1/2 chocolaty/cherry plum wines get our best shot.Aromas of raspberry cordial characters on both nose and Pressing Matters R169fruit with a dash of five palate. Generous, fleshy Tasmania Riesling 2008 Call us now to ensure thatspice. Long, lingering palate palate, full of flavour. $28 (375ml) HHHHH the combined efforts of yourrich and ripe and fills the Laurel Bank Tasmania Richly textured, beautifullymouth with intense varietal Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH soft and silky in the mouth team, from viticulturists tofruit flavours. Big wine. $38 Fuller, richer style with with interesting combination winemakers to marketers lovely depth of sweet dark of lime, ginger and palm are not shot to pieces by plums, savoury complexity sugar-like characters below average imagery. and a hint of pine needle-like perfectly balanced by crisp characters. $33 acidity. $26 As we say, all it takes Cockfighter’s Ghost Craigow Tasmania is one top shot! Tasmania Pinot Noir Dessert Gewurztraminer 2006 HHHH 2005 (375ml) HHHHH So shoot us an Still a very tightly structured Spicy and aromatic bouquet email, or dial in the wine but has lovely length and lovely fruit freshness, and intensity of varietal fruit, sweetness and elegance phone number. with perfectly matched wood in the mouth, perfectly and a savoury finish. $39.99 balanced by acidity and At Wellcom we also giving the wine structure. specialise in the Great with food. $21 production of a wideSugarloaf Ridge Pooley Coal Frogmore Creek FGR range of communicationTasmania Pinot Noir River Valley Tasmania Tasmania Riesling 2008 and promotional media2005 HHHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2006 HHHH (375ml) HHHH1/2Fabulous depth of colour, Fragrant, intense and A wine with intensity including graphicwith very pretty, light and concentrated in flavour, with and drive and excellent design, catalogues,aromatic fruit. Intense, deep, rich cherries and plums flavour length. Made in the banners, annual reports,powerful and rich, with lovely and earthy spices cloaked in Germanic style, it has low posters, newsletters,firm tannins and showing velvet tannins. $28 alcohol, sweet, fragrantsome aged complexity. $35 lemon blossom fruit and brochures, TVCCape Bernier refreshing acidity. $24 production andTasmania Pinot Noir Pressing Matters R69 corporate videos.2006 HHHH1/2 Tasmania Riesling 2008Distinctive forest floor (375ml) HHHHcharacters with interesting Made in the classicferal notes in addition to spaetlese style of rieslingmasses of firm, dark plum fruit - very soft and reserved,and oaky tannins. Will improve with some glycerin-likewith cellaring. $25 CD sweetness and a hint of peanut oil. $26 43 Fullarton Road, Kent Town SA. 5067 phone +61 8 8362 1077 fax +61 8 8363 2488 [email protected] Wellcom_67x274.indd 1 Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 133 18/12/08 3:51:47 PM

Waiheke Island Vineyards.n ezwealan d THE BEST WINES OF 2009 CONTENTS Includes: Sparkling, Other White Varietals & Blends, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Rose, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Merlot & Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends, Syrah, Sweet White.

FROM SUCCESS TO EXCESS The New Zealand year in review, by Michael CooperAFTER two decades of sailing in fair seas, New Zealand winegrowers had Of the national grape harvest, over half (57 per cent) was of one variety from a rough passage in 2009. Several wineries slid into receivership; the one region - Marlborough sauvignon blanc. If you add sauvignon blanc from bottom fell from under Gisborne’s chardonnay growers; and the industry other regions, giving a total of 177,647 tonnes, sauvignon blanc accountedharvested its second bumper crop in a row, ensuring the supply of New Zealand for almost 63 per cent of the country’s total harvest.wine would continue to outstrip demand and that retail prices would plummet. A couple of years ago, if you visited one of the country’s throng of wineries, Yet it wasn’t all bad news. Exports passed the magical milestone of $NZ1 you’d have found a positive feeling in the air. “Over the past decade, we havebillion; a Nelson vineyard released the country’s first wine to be certified made many projections about sales growth,” enthused Stuart Smith, chair ofbiodynamic - Richmond Plains Aries 2008; Sir George Fistonich, of Villa Maria, New Zealand Winegrowers, at the start of his 2008 annual report. “Each year webecame the country’s first wine knight; and Nobilo topped the sauvignon blanc have seen them fulfilled and even surpassed.” Now there’s an air of caution in thesales charts in the US. industry. Key, sobering trends include falling consumption in key markets, at home and abroad, and a surge in the proportion of exports shipped as bulk wine. New Zealand wine of good quality has never been more widely available orcheaper. In supermarkets, perfectly decent Marlborough sauvignon blancs are In 2008, after doubling their output in four years, many winemakers began toselling for $5.99, and pinot noir from Central Otago is suddenly everywhere. question the rate of growth. “In the short term, it lays down a challenge to theNot only are the wineries based in the region launching increasingly affordable, industry to sell through a larger than expected quantity without undermining Newsecond- and third-tier labels, but around New Zealand, countless other Zealand’s position in the market,” admitted New Zealand Winegrowers.producers are adding one or two Central Otago pinot noirs to their portfolio. Several companies made no wine in 2009. With tanks, barrels and “For wineries, it is incredibly competitive,” says Philip Gregan, chief executive warehouses brimming from 2008 and previous seasons, they sold their grapesofficer of New Zealand Winegrowers. “Nobody is making money domestically. or simply left them unpicked.There is a lot of downward price pressure for a variety of reasons. Our supplysituation is just part of it. The recession is another.” The good news is that New Zealand winemakers are now grabbing a rising share of their domestic market. Bulk imports are dropping, reflecting the huge Three years ago, anyone eager to establish a sauvignon blanc vineyard in volume of New Zealand wine produced in the past couple of vintages and itsMarlborough couldn’t, unless they had ordered the vines well in advance. availability at lower and lower prices. But drinkers are trading down, forcingNurseries were cleaned out by the soaring demand for plants, reflecting many wineries to cut prices to retain demand.feedback from the major exporting wineries that they couldn’t get enoughMarlborough sauvignon blanc. Exports are still expanding swiftly but, according to New Zealand Winegrowers, “the sales growth hides some big issues”. The biggest concern is the trend to But the industry expanded too fast. Between 2000 and 2009, the country’s bulk exports. In mid-2009, nearly 20 per cent of exports were in bulk, up fromarea of bearing vineyards tripled, its production soared from under seven million five per cent the previous year, and in July bulk sales rose to 40 per cent.cases to over 22 million, and 300 new wineries opened for business. Exportsexpanded at an exhilarating rate, from $125 million to $1 billion (a year ahead “It’s all centred around sauvignon blanc and it’s cannibalising bottled wineof schedule), but still not fast enough to keep pace with the surging output. and other varietal sales,” says New Zealand Winegrowers. “These bulk sales threaten to undermine New Zealand’s super-premium reputation and price The media is full of ‘doom and gloom’ wine stories. Not only are wine prices point.” At supermarkets in the UK, consumers can snap up three bottles offalling, but so are the prices for grapes, established vineyards and land suitable ‘house brand’ Marlborough sauvignon blanc for £10.for viticulture. In 2009, in several regions, grapes were left unpicked. Somevineyards are expected to be uprooted. The biggest issue facing the industry, according to Philip Gregan, is the runaway expansion of vineyards in Marlborough. “We currently have too many New Zealand’s 2009 grape crop totalled 285,000 tonnes - identical to the vines for the markets we are predicting.”massive 2008 harvest, which was a 39 per cent leap on the previous record.Pinot noir production fell by 16 per cent, but despite much-publicised work The wine lake will not be drained quickly. In 2010, Philip has calculated, theon reducing sauvignon blanc yields, the crucial harvest of this grape was industry will still be sitting on 30 million litres of surplus 2008 wine. “Vintageactually five per cent larger than in 2008. 09 will produce another surplus, maybe just over 15 million litres. The good news is we have cut last year’s surplus in half, but the problem is we have The prospects are for generally good wine. After a dry and sunny early-mid- added to the ’08 surplus, meaning we have an overall surplus of around 45summer in most regions, the east coast was on a ‘red alert’ for fire. During million litres [60 million bottles].”mid-late February, the weather turned cool and wet, but March, althoughstill cool, was extremely dry and sunny. April was a mixed bag around the In an effort to bring production back into line with market demand, the industrycountry, but in the principal grapegrowing regions on the east coast, the body has told producers to harvest no more than eight tonnes per hectare inweather stayed dry and cool. 2010 (compared to the recent average of 9.5). However, the current surplus is likely to take at least a couple of years to clear. Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 135

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandsparkling other white sauvignon blanc Villa Maria Single Astrolabe Discovery varietals & blends Vineyard Taylor’s Awatere SauvignonDeutz Marlborough Redwood Pass Pass Awatere Valley Blanc 2008 HHHH1/2Cuvee Blanc de Blancs Villa Maria Single Marlborough Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc Freshly herbaceous aromas2005 HHHHH Vineyard Omahu Blanc 2008 HHHHH 2008 HHHHH lead into a distinctiveTop-rated by all judges. Gravels Hawke’s Bay Freshly herbaceous style, Distinctly Awatere Valley Awatere Valley style withVery tight, elegant and Viognier 2008 HHHHH aromatic and nettley, with style with fresh, appealing lively, intense, melon andlong, with an intense, Weighty, fleshy, soft excellent delicacy and length. aromatics and lovely intensity green capsicum flavours.citrusy, toasty bouquet, style, fermented in French Very vibrant, crisp and punchy. on the palate. Delicate, Aromatic, nettley andan invigorating mousse, oak barrels, with some A bargain at $17. (A, UK) green capsicum-like flavours, punchy. $23.95 (A, UK)and lively, yeasty flavours indigenous yeasts and very elegant and lively, withshowing lovely complexity malolactic fermentation Saint Clair Pioneer tight acidity and impressive Wither Hillsand richness. $38.95 adding complexity. Very Block 6 Oh! Block length. $25 (A, UK, US) Single VineyardDeutz Marlborough floral, lifted bouquet, with Marlborough Sauvignon Palliser Estate Rarangi SauvignonCuvee NV HHHH1/2 hints of apricots. Full, rich, Blanc 2008 HHHHH Martinborough Blanc 2008 HHHH1/2Pale and finely scented, finely textured palate and Grown in the lower Sauvignon Blanc Intensely aromatic,with citrusy, slightly biscuity a bone-dry, well-rounded Rapaura district, north 2008 HHHHH herbaceous style with aflavours that linger well. finish. $29.99 of Blenheim. Intensely Slightly ‘sweaty’ aromas. slight minerally streak,Elegant, subtle style, Passage Rock aromatic, with ripe Fleshy, vibrant and sweet- grown on the Wairaubeautifully fresh, crisp and Waiheke Island Viognier passionfruit notes to the fruited, in a powerful, yet Valley coastline. Veryharmonious. $34.95 2008 HHHH1/2 fore and some greener, very elegant style with fresh, vibrant, pure andCuvee No.1 NV HHHH1/2 Powerful, rich and oily wine, herbaceous characters. concentrated, ripe passionfruit, flavoursome. $25 (UK)Fresh, floral, blanc de blancs barrel-fermented, with Full-flavoured, sweet- citrus, lime and herb flavours, Saint Clair Marlboroughstyle, based entirely on concentrated, stone-fruit fruited, dry and lingering. and a sustained finish. Rated Sauvignon Blancchardonnay. Vivacious wine, flavours, fresh, ripe and $26.95 (A, UK, US) highly by all judges. $19 2008 HHHH1/2crisp, lemony and lively, with slightly creamy. Still youthful Vavasour Awatere Matariki Reserve This large volume, regionalgood yeast autolysis and a hint and unfolding well. $30 Valley Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon blend delivers great value.of sweetness giving an easy- Waimea Nelson 2008 HHHHH Blanc 2007 HHHHH Pungently aromatic, it is richlydrinking charm. $35 (A, US) Viognier 2008 HHHH Tangy and intense, with Classy, complex style, herbaceous, with riper tropicalDeutz Marlborough Refined, vibrantly fruity wine a hint of ‘sweaty armpit’. hand-picked in the Gimblett fruit notes, good intensity onCuvee Rose HHHH with mouthfilling body and Vibrant, with refreshing Gravels, fermented in barrels the palate and a sustainedSalmon pink, with crisp, fresh, rich, stone-fruit and tropical fruit and tomato and tanks and lees-stirred finish. $20.95 (A, UK, US)strawberryish, yeasty spice flavours. Dry, with stalk flavours, showing for three months. Maturing Saint Clair Wairauflavours showing excellent lively acidity, it’s an elegant excellent depth, delicacy gracefully, with concentrated, Reserve Marlboroughvigour and complexity. wine, worth cellaring. $21.90 and length. $22 (A, UK, US) ripe flavours of peaches Sauvignon BlancFresh, finely textured and Coopers Creek SV The Pencarrow and nectarines, seasoned 2008 HHHH1/2floral. $38.95 Little Rascal Gisborne Martinborough with nutty oak, a deliciously Rich, tropical fruit aromas,Palliser Estate Arneis 2008 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc creamy texture and a dry, with a trace of ‘sweatyMethode Traditionnelle Mouthfilling, dryish 2008 HHHHH lingering finish. $24.90 armpit’, lead into a weighty2005 HHHH Gisborne wine with a From Palliser Estate, a crisp, Brightwater Vineyards palate with intense, ripelyFragrant, yeasty bouquet, subtle, floral bouquet lively wine with a ‘sweaty’ Lord Rutherford Nelson herbaceous flavours,showing good complexity. and fresh, lively, citrus nose, mouthfilling body and Sauvignon Blanc balanced acidity and a longRich, vibrant flavours, and tropical fruit flavours. tropical fruit flavours showing 2008 HHHH1/2 finish. $32.95 (A, UK, US)fresh, nutty, crisp and long. Shows very good depth and excellent freshness, Rich, finely textured NelsonA stylish Martinborough harmony, with a slightly vigour and richness. Great wine with ripe, tropicalblend of pinot noir and spicy finish. $23 (A, UK, US) value at $15. (A, UK) fruit flavours, a distinctchardonnay. $34 Trinity Hill Gimblett hint of passionfruit and a Gravels Hawke’s Bay fractionally off-dry (5g/litre ofSoljans Fusion Viognier 2008 HHHH residual sugar) finish. Fresh,Sparkling Muscat HHHH Peachy, slightly nutty, vibrant and impressivelyNew Zealand’s finest full-flavoured wine, hand- concentrated. $25equivalent of Asti Spumante, picked and fermented in a Spinyback Nelsonthis Muscat-based bubbly is mix of tanks and barrels. Sauvignon Blancgrown in Gisborne and made Complex style, with an oily 2008 HHHH1/2in a very low alcohol (8%), texture and impressive Pungent, fleshy style withsweet (80g/litre of residual harmony. $29 (A, UK) rich, ripe, tropical fruitsugar) style. Perfumed, with Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay flavours, lively acidity anda lovely burst of crisp, sweet Arneis 2008 HHHH a dryish (6g/litre of residualflavour, it is delightfully fresh Fragrant, citrusy, slightly sugar), long finish. Greatand lively. $15.95 nutty bouquet. Weighty, value from Waimea Estates concentrated blend of arneis at $14.90. (UK, US) (95%) and viognier (5%), Tussock Nelson mostly fermented in tanks, Sauvignon Blanc but also in seasoned French 2008 HHHH1/2 oak barrels. Strong, complex From Woollaston Estates, this tropical fruit and spice mouthfilling, richly flavoured flavours, with a dry finish. $19 wine has ripe, ‘sweaty armpit’ aromas and fresh, rich, tropical fruit and herbal flavours that linger well. $17136 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandClifford Bay Awatere Villa Maria Reserve rieslingValley Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley2008 HHHH Marlborough Sauvignon Allan Scott MoorlandsPunchy, with excellent Blanc 2008 HHHH Marlborough Rieslingfreshness, vigour and depth Rich, ripe, tropical fruit 2006 HHHHHof melon and green capsicum aromas and flavours, Dry style in full strideflavours. Ripely herbal, crisp showing good delicacy and - beautifully poised, elegantand refreshing. $21 intensity, and a fresh, crisp, and long. Light lemon/green,Highfield Marlborough long finish. $24.99 (A, UK) with a fragrant, citrusy,Sauvignon Blanc Villa Maria Single slightly toasty bouquet and2008 HHHH Vineyard Maxwell finely balanced lemon/limeVery elegant and harmonious, Sauvignon Blanc flavours, still appetisinglywith a fresh, aromatic 2008 HHHH fresh and crisp. $29 (A)bouquet and ripe, sweet- Weighty, ripe, tropicalfruit flavours of herbs and fruit flavoured style with Morton Estate White Anchorage Nelson Astrolabe Voyagepassionfruit, showing good passionfruit notes and a hint Label Hawke’s Bay Classic Riesling Marlborough Dryintensity. $26 (A, UK, US) of grassiness. Good intensity Sauvignon Blanc 2007 HHHHH Riesling 2008 HHHHKakapo Marlborough through the palate, with a 2008 HHHH Maturing gracefully, this Single-vineyard, WaihopaiSauvignon Blanc crisp, dry finish. $24.99 (UK) Fresh, crisp and light lemon/green Nelson Valley wine with citrusy,2008 HHHH Anchorage Nelson flavoursome, in a lively, wine is a tightly structured, slightly minerally bouquetFleshy, ripe and punchy, with Sauvignon Blanc slightly nettley style with medium style with lemony, and good flavour intensity.tropical fruit and herbaceous 2008 HHHH fractional sweetness (noted slightly spicy flavours Floral and elegant, with a richaromas and flavours, Lively Nelson wine, based by two judges) balanced showing excellent vigour and dryish finish. $26.95 (A) (UK)showing excellent freshness, on first-crop vines, with by appetising acidity, and intensity. Still youthful, withbalance and depth. (A strong, freshly herbaceous, good vigour and aromatic good harmony, it is fresh,distributor’s label.) $19 melon and lime flavours that intensity. $16 floral and lingering. $16Saint Clair Vicar’s linger well to a crisp, dry Greystone WaiparaChoice Marlborough finish. $17 (UK, US) Sauvignon Blanc Waimea Nelson Classic Clifford BaySauvignon Blanc Brightwater Nelson 2009 HHHH Riesling 2008 HHHHH Marlborough Riesling2008 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Ripely scented, with good Already a lovely mouthful, 2006 HHHHCrisp, fresh and finely 2008 HHHH weight, fresh, delicate this is a very generous Ripely scented, Awaterebalanced, with good Refined, elegant wine with melon and herb flavours, Nelson wine with rich Valley wine with sweet-concentration of ripe, sweet- fresh, crisp, ripe, tropical a minerally streak and lemon/lime flavours, fruit characters and strongfruit aromas and flavours. A fruit flavours that build good intensity. 5% barrel- abundant sweetness (21.8g/ lemon and passionfruittop buy at $18.95. well to an off-dry (6g/litre fermented. $22 (A) litre of residual sugar) and flavours. Fresh and floral,Stoneleigh of residual sugar), lasting Mt Beautiful Cheviot lively acidity. Refined and with a slight toastinessMarlborough Sauvignon finish. $20 (A, UK, US) Hills North Canterbury concentrated. $17.90 (US) developing. $21 (A, UK)Blanc 2008 HHHH Wingspan Nelson Sauvignon Blanc The Doctors’ Riesling Tohu MarlboroughRipely scented and Sauvignon Blanc 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHHH Riesling 2008 HHHHmouthfilling, with tropical 2008 HHHH From a new sub-region, Floral and finely poised wine Tight and youthful, withfruit flavours showing Great value wine from north of Waipara, a fleshy, from Forrest Estate. Light- good intensity of lemon/excellent depth and fresh, Woollaston Estates. Fresh rich wine, ripely scented, bodied style (8.5% alcohol) apple flavours. Fresh,lively acidity. $22.95 and vibrant, with strong, finely with sweet-fruit delights, with youthful lemon/apple slightly sweet and crisp,Two Rivers balanced melon and lime strong tropical fruit flavours flavours, showing lovely with excellent balance andConvergence flavours, showing excellent and finely balanced acidity. purity, delicacy and harmony, potential. $19.95Marlborough Sauvignon ripeness and length. $16.95 $21.95 (UK) and a sweetish, refreshingly Riverby Sali’s BlockBlanc 2008 HHHH Waimea Barrel crisp finish. $22 (A) Marlborough RieslingSkilfully crafted blend of Fermented Nelson Babich Marlborough 2008 HHHHequal portions of Wairau Sauvignon Blanc Dry Riesling Medium style with rich, ripe,Valley and Awatere Valley 2008 HHHH 2007 HHHH1/2 citrusy flavours and a hint ofgrapes. Grassy bouquet, Full-bodied style, fully Fleshy, ripe style with honeysuckle, balanced forwith mouthfilling body, fermented in seasoned oak citrusy, slightly toasty easy drinking. Lush, well-some tropical-fruit influence, casks, with an oaky bouquet flavours, showing balanced rounded wine with moderategood delicacy and a fresh, but fleshy, ripely flavoured acidity and a touch of level of residual sweetnesscrisp, slightly minerally palate, nutty, dry and development. Mouthfilling and good length. $20 (A, US)finish. $22 (A, UK) rounded. Still very fresh and and dryish, offering very Saint Clair PioneerJulicher Martinborough youthful; open 2010. $21.90 satisfying drinking now Block 9 Big JohnSauvignon Blanc Waimea Nelson onwards. $19.95 (UK, US) Riesling 2007 HHHH2008 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Medium-sweet style (49g/Martinborough wine with 2008 HHHH litre of residual sugar) withfresh, concentrated, ripely Mouthfilling, clearly finely balanced acidity. Stillherbaceous flavours and a herbaceous style with youthful, with strong, lemonytouch of complexity from capsicum flavours and flavours, showing excellenta small portion of barrel some riper, passionfruit vigour and length. $24.95fermentation. Some ‘sweaty’ notes. Easy-drinking winenotes, with crisp acidity and with lively acidity, a slivera lingering finish. $18.95 of sweetness (4g/litre of residual sugar) and excellent intensity. $17.90 (A, UK, US) Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 137

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandAlana Estate Greystone Waipara Villa Maria Single Lawson’s Dry Mount VernonMartinborough Riesling Riesling 2008 HHHH Vineyard Ihumatao Hills Marlborough Marlborough Pinot Gris2008 HHHH Punchy, youthful wine with Gewurztraminer Gewurztraminer 2008 HHHHTight, dryish style from a full-bloomed bouquet, 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH From Lawson’s Dry Hills, thisMartinborough with lemony, citrusy and slightly spicy. Exotically perfumed, estate- Fleshy and soft, with ripe, mouthfilling, finely texturedslightly minerally flavours. Weighty, medium style, grown wine from Mangere, concentrated lychee and spice wine shows good depth andSlightly austere, with fresh balanced for easy drinking, in south Auckland, 15% flavours, pure and intensely purity of peach, pear and spiceacidity and good vigour and with excellent ripeness, barrel-fermented. Musky varietal. $25.95 (A, UK, US) flavours, with a floral bouquet,cellaring potential. $31 (A, UK) intensity and length. $24 bouquet, with fresh, ripe, Whitehaven sweet-fruit characters andBrightwater Vineyards Peregrine Rastaburn slightly sweet lychee and Marlborough crisp acidity. $20 (A)Nelson Riesling Riesling 2006 HHHH spice flavours, excellent Gewurztraminer Stoneleigh2008 HHHH Drinking well now, with ripeness, delicacy and 2008 HHHH Marlborough Pinot GrisAlready very expressive, an attractively scented cellaring potential. $29.99 Perfumed, mouthfilling 2008 HHHHthis is a full-flavoured, ripe, bouquet showing bottle- Huntaway and generous, with ripe Instantly enjoyable style, withlemony and limey wine, age complexity, and strong, Reserve Gisborne lychee and spice flavours, a scented bouquet and citruswith a hint of apricot and a lemony, gently sweet Gewurztraminer showing excellent varietal fruit, pear and spice flavours,distinct splash of sweetness flavours. Elegant wine, 2007 HHHH definition. $22.95 (UK) slightly sweet and smooth.(16g/litre of residual maturing very gracefully, Perfumed, with excellent Askerne Reserve Fresh and finely balanced,sugar). Lush, juicy and with good weight and a weight and harmony. Hawke’s Bay with good length. $22.95concentrated. $20 (A, US) lasting finish. $22 (US) Mouthfilling, with ripe Gewurztraminer Triplebank AwatereTe Mania Nelson lychees and spice flavours, 2008 HHHH Valley MarlboroughRiesling 2008 HHHH gewurztraminer some complexity, a slightly Exotically perfumed, light Pinot Gris 2008 HHHHSlightly honeyed bouquet, oily texture and a smooth, yellow wine, 15% barrel- From Pernod Ricard NZ, aleading into a very crisp Seifried Nelson dryish finish. $23.95 fermented. Concentrated, mouthfilling, slightly sweetand lively wine with good Gewurztraminer Waimea Nelson slightly gingery and honeyed wine with vibrant pear andintensity of slightly sweet, 2008 HHHHH Gewurztraminer flavours in a forward, gently spice flavours and fresh,lemony, limey flavours. Floral, with lychee, spice and 2008 HHHH sweet style, rich, rounded balanced acidity. Delicious$18.99 (A, UK, US) rose petal aromas showing Hand-picked at up to 26 and ready. $30 mouthful - creamy texturedWoollaston Nelson impressive ripeness and brix, an exotically perfumed and floral. $23.99Riesling 2007 HHHH intensity. Softly mouthfilling, wine with mouthfilling body pinot gris/pinot blanc WhitehavenPerfumed, ripely scented, with pure, gently sweet (14.5% alc), rich lychee, Marlborough Pinot Grisspicy bouquet. Powerful flavours showing lovely ginger and spice flavours and Stoneleigh Rapaura 2008 HHHHwine, with concentrated, delicacy and depth. Already an off-dry, smooth finish. Series Marlborough Lifted, aromatic pearcitrusy, spicy flavours and delicious. $20 (A, UK) Already drinking well. $21.90 Pinot Gris 2008 HHHHH notes, with good intensitya hint of marmalade in a Fleshy, concentrated wine of lemon, apple and spicemusky, slightly sweet, full- Spy Valley Marlborough Astrolabe Voyage with a slightly honeyed flavours, slightly sweet andbodied style. $19 Gewurztraminer Marlborough fragrance, pear and spice crisp. $22.95 (A, UK)Camshorn Classic 2008 HHHHH Gewurztraminer flavours, good texture and Spinyback Nelson PinotRiesling 2008 HHHH Exotically perfumed, gingery 2008 HHHH real power through the Gris 2008 HHHHVery harmonious and bouquet. Mouthfilling and Richly scented, with a palate. Deliciously aromatic, From Waimea Estates, aimmaculate Waipara intensely varietal, with slightly oily texture and a oily, ripe and rich. $26.95 fruity wine with mouthfillingwine, finely textured, with concentrated spice and lychee distinct splash of sweetness Torlesse Waipara Pinot body (14.5% alc) andgently sweet, lemon/apple flavours, slight sweetness (22g/litre of residual sugar) Gris 2009 HHHH1/2 peachy, slightly honeyedflavours showing impressive and balanced acidity. Weighty, amid its lush, extroverted Scented, mouthfilling and flavours showing gooddelicacy, purity and rich and already delicious. flavours. $23.95 (A, UK) finely poised, with vibrant varietal character andpersistence. $26.95 $22.95 (A, UK, US) lychee and spice flavours richness. Dryish, with Montana Terroir Series showing lovely purity, richness fresh, balanced acidity, it’sGreystone Waipara Riverpoint Gisborne and roundness. Rated highly delicious now and bargain-Riesling 2009 HHHH Gewurztraminer by all judges. $20 priced. $17.90 (UK, US)Estate-grown and hand- 2007 HHHH1/2 Cape Campbell Tussock Nelson Pinotharvested, a medium style Delicious now, in a Marlborough Pinot Gris Gris 2008 HHHHwith excellent depth of softly textured style with 2008 HHHH From Woollaston Estates,lemony, appley flavour, impressively concentrated, Fresh and lively, with dryish an attractively scented winebalanced for easy drinking. ripe, slightly sweet lychee pear and spice flavours. Subtle with ripe, passionfruit-likeFloral and focused, with and spice flavours. Weighty and softly textured, with a flavours, fresh, crisp, slightlyappetising acidity, it should and lush. $24.95 floral bouquet and lingering sweet and honeyed. $18unfold well. $24 (A) finish. $18.95 (A, UK) Waimea Nelson Pinot Spy Valley Marlborough Gris 2008 HHHH Pinot Gris 2008 HHHH Fleshy, with concentrated, Slightly honeyed, mouthfilling ripe, peachy, slightly spicy wine with ripe stone-fruit flavours and just a hint of and spice flavours. Musky sweetness (6.8g/litre of and oily, with an impressive residual sugar). Beautifully richness. $22.95 (A, UK, US) balanced, pure and oily (one judge rated it five stars). $21.90 (A, UK, US)138 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandChurch Road Montana Terroir Villa Maria Reserve Croft Martinborough Villa Maria SingleHawke’s Bay Pinot Gris Series Waihirere Barrique Fermented Chardonnay Vineyard Taylor’s2008 HHHH Gisborne Chardonnay Gisborne Chardonnay 2006 HHHH1/2 Pass MarlboroughElegant style with good 2006 HHHHH 2007 HHHHH Refined Martinborough wine, Chardonnay 2006 HHHHweight, concentrated stone- Fragrant, slightly creamy Very fragrant, citrusy, nutty maturing very gracefully. Awatere Valley winefruit flavours, a slightly oily bouquet. Generous, bouquet, with indigenous Bright, light yellow/green, with tight, grapefruit-liketexture and a rich, dryish mouthfilling wine with yeasts (30%) adding with a fleshy palate showing flavours and oaky, minerallyfinish. $25.95 concentrated, ripe grapefruit complexity. Lovely, subtle, concentrated, ripe, grapefruit- complexity. Flinty andTrinity Hill Black Label and nut flavours, very sweet-fruited wine, with like flavours, integrated nutty smoky, with crisp acidity andHawke’s Bay Pinot Gris harmonious and rich. grapefruit and smoky oak and a long finish. Rated good length. $38.99 (A, UK)2008 HHHH Delicious now. $28.95 oak flavours showing highly by all judges. $24 (UK) Ascension The AscentRich, full-bodied style, tank- Cottage Block impressive richness, Saint Clair Pioneer Block Reserve Matakanafermented and lees-aged, Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay freshness, delicacy and 4 Sawcut Chardonnay Chardonnay 2007 HHHHwith a lifted fragrance of 2007 HHHHH length. Built to last. $35.99 2007 HHHH1/2 Light yellow, with a slightlypears and spices. Weighty From Pernod Ricard NZ, Fleshy, rich, Ure Valley honeyed and toasty bouquet.and relatively dry, with this beauty was a star Selaks Winemakers wine, French oak- Strong grapefruit and nuttyexcellent balance and of the tasting. A classic Favourite Hawke’s Bay fermented. Generous, oak flavours, ripe, smoothrichness. $29 (A, UK) regional style, it has a floral, Chardonnay tropical fruit and toasty oak and delicious now. $35 complex, nutty and creamy 2008 HHHH1/2 flavours, creamy, leesy, Montana ‘O’ Ormondchardonnay bouquet, leading into a Slightly nutty bouquet. powerful and long. $29.95 Gisborne Chardonnay generous, finely textured Elegant, with fresh, youthful, Wither Hills Marlborough 2006 HHHHSaint Clair Pioneer palate with ripe grapefruit grapefruit and toasty oak Chardonnay Complex bouquet, showingBlock 11 Cell Block and smoky oak flavours, flavours, showing excellent 2007 HHHH1/2 some development. Elegant,Chardonnay lovely delicacy, complexity vigour and length. Rich, Complex bouquet. Elegant, with fresh acidity enlivening2007 HHHHH and length. $35.95 complex wine, weighty and tightly structured and its grapefruit and subtle oakBig, up-front style with ripe, Church Road Reserve creamy. Top value at $20.99. concentrated wine with flavours, which are finelytropical fruit aromas and Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Trinity Hill rich, ripe, citrusy, slightly balanced and lingering. $32.95flavours, seasoned with 2007 HHHHH Gimblett Gravels toasty flavours and a long, Palliser Estatetoasty oak. Powerful, rich Richly fragrant, full-bodied Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay finely textured, creamy Martinboroughand long. $29.95 (UK) wine with concentrated, 2007 HHHH1/2 finish. Best drinking 2009- Chardonnay 2007 HHHHRiverby Estate well-ripened grapefruit Tight, elegant style, with 10. Rated five stars by one Fleshy, slightly toasty andMarlborough flavours (two judges noted a fresh, concentrated, judge. $25 (A, UK) buttery, with concentrated,Chardonnay cool climate influence), finely grapefruit-like flavours Saint Clair Omaka ripe citrus and tropical2007 HHHHH integrated oak and impressive enriched with toasty oak. Reserve Marlborough fruit flavours enriched butVery classy wine from complexity. Still youthful and Finely balanced, complex Chardonnay 2007 HHHH not dominated by, spicy,19-year-old vines with unfolding well. $35.95 and well-spined, with a Elegant wine with attractive, nutty oak. Deliciouslyconcentrated, citrusy lingering finish. “Quite smoky oak influence, flavoursome, finely balancedflavours, mealy, biscuity Mission Jewelstone Burgundian in style,” noted concentrated, citrusy and well-rounded. Drinkingnotes adding complexity, Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay one judge. $29 flavours and crisp finish. well now. $28 (A, UK)creamy texture and lovely 2007 HHHHH Matua Valley Gisborne Complex, finely balanced Te Kairangaflow across the palate. Rich, complex, nutty, Ararimu Chardonnay style, for drinking now or MartinboroughRated highly by all judges mealy, highly attractive 2007 HHHH1/2 cellaring. $32.95 (UK) Chardonnay 2007 HHHHand a great buy. $25 (A, US) bouquet. Powerful, weighty Classy, complex Gisborne Highfield Marlborough Toasty, citrusy bouquet,Villa Maria Reserve and tightly structured, wine with vibrant, grapefruit- Chardonnay 2007 HHHH showing some development.Marlborough with highly concentrated like flavours and a subtle Fleshy, with ripe, Rich, flavoursome palate,Chardonnay stone-fruit flavours woven seasoning of oak. Dry and grapefruit-like flavours, rich, with grapefruit and peach2006 HHHHH with appetising acidity and harmonious, with impressive smoky and layered, and characters and deftly judged,Richly fragrant wine with lovely length. $34 concentration, a smoky, a tight, slightly minerally nutty oak. Crisp, slightlyconcentrated, grapefruit- Coopers Creek nutty, creamy mid-palate finish. $36 (A, UK, US) minerally style, drinking welllike flavours, seasoned SV The Limeworks and a long finish. $49.95 Stoneleigh Rapaura now. $21 (A)with nutty oak, bottle-aged Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Huntaway Reserve Series Marlborough Te Mania Nelsoncomplexity and a long, 2008 HHHH1/2 Gisborne Chardonnay Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Reserve Chardonnayminerally finish. Currently in Full-on style with rich, 2007 HHHH1/2 Forward, pleasantly oaky 2007 HHHHfull stride. $33.99 (A, UK) grapefruit-like flavours, Fragrant, rich bouquet. style with generous, ripe- Powerful Nelson wine well seasoned with toasty Youthful wine with ripe, fruit flavours. Rich, mealy with mouthfilling body and American oak, and a citrusy, toasty flavours that and finely textured, with rich, ripe, citrusy flavours, deliciously soft texture. linger well. Finely textured, creamy, cashew notes and a seasoned with toasty French Savoury, with good elegant wine, tightly long finish. $26.95 and American oak. Slightly weight, concentration and structured and likely to be creamy texture, with fresh complexity. Lots of drink- long-lived. $23.95 acidity keeping things lively. young appeal. $20 $27.99 (A, UK) Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 139

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandBabich Irongate Gunn Estate Skeetfield Kawarau Estate Reserve Waimea Bolitho Tohu Rore ReserveHawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2007 HHHH SV Nelson Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot NoirChardonnay 2005 HHHH Chardonnay 2007 HHHH Certified organic, this 2007 HHHHH 2006 HHHHHDesigned for cellaring, this Tight, elegant style from Cromwell Basin wine Powerful, dense, single- Fragrant, generous red withGimblett Gravels wine is still Sacred Hill with rich, citrusy, is invitingly fragrant vineyard red, grown on deep, bright colour and tight,youthful in colour, with good slightly limey flavours, good and weighty, with ripe, the Waimea Plains. Deeply focused, yet deliciouslyvigour. Mouthfilling and complexity, and a very fresh, concentrated flavours, coloured, with a floral supple palate. Packed withslightly creamy, with ripe, crisp and lively finish. Needs slightly creamy, harmonious bouquet and concentrated rich, ripe, sweet-fruit flavours,sweet-fruit characters and more time. One judge scored and persistent. $30 berry, plum, spice and dried it is complex, well-roundedrich, grapefruit-like flavours, it five stars. $32.90 (A, UK) herb flavours, showing good and lingering. $35.95complex and lingering, it rose complexity. $29.90 Vavasour Awatereshould be at its best now- Mission Reserve Valley Pinot Noir2011. $34.95 Hawke’s Bay Forrest Marlborough Astrolabe Voyage 2007 HHHHHChurch Road Cuve Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Rose 2008 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Noir Floral and purple-flushed,Series Hawke’s Bay Skilfully made (noted two Freshly scented blend of 2007 HHHHH with a strong surge ofChardonnay 2006 HHHH judges), with strong, citrusy merlot, pinot noir, malbec Rich, sweet-fruited red, deeply cherryish, sweet-fruitFrom Pernod Ricard NZ, this flavours to the fore, a subtle and syrah. Pink/red, with coloured, with substantial flavours, finely integratedwine is maturing gracefully, seasoning of nutty oak, and youthful, plummy, slightly body and concentrated, well- oak and supple, lingeringwith generous stone-fruit a slightly buttery finish. Rich, spicy flavours, balanced rounded flavours. Intensely finish. Very elegant andand toast flavours. Two concentrated and worth acidity and a vibrant, perfumed and elegant, with silky. $31 (A, UK, US)judges found the oak slightly cellaring. $25 lingering finish. $20 (A, UK) supple tannins. Fine value at Villa Maria Reserveovert, but the wine shows Matariki Reserve Margrain Martinborough $26.95. (A, UK) Marlborough Pinot Noirgood complexity, texture Hawke’s Bay Pinot Rose 2008 HHHH Montana Letter Series 2007 HHHHHand length. $25.95 Chardonnay 2006 HHHH Bright pink/light red. Floral, ‘T’ Marlborough Pinot Purple-flushed, with floral, Fleshy and soft, with vibrantly fruity Martinborough Noir 2007 HHHHH ripe bouquet of dark berriesC J Pask Declaration strong stone-fruit, rose, based solely on pinot This lovely wine romped and violets. Generous, sweet-Hawke’s Bay toast and nut flavours, noir. Strong plum and straight to a five-star rating fruited and supple, in a highlyChardonnay 2007 HHHH developing good savoury cherry flavours, with a sliver on all judges’ scoresheets. concentrated, intensely ripeClassic regional style, with complexity. Ready. $35.90 of sweetness and fresh, Deeply coloured, it is yet vibrant and intenselyrich, ripe stone-fruit flavours Paritua Hawke’s Bay appetisingly crisp finish. $24 strikingly perfumed, rich varietal style, with silkyseasoned with French oak Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Domain Road and silky, with vibrant plum/ tannins. $54.99 (A, UK, US)and fresh acidity keeping Toasty, nutty bouquet. Central Otago Pinot cherry flavours, showing Walnut Block Singlethings lively. $35 (A, UK) Weighty and concentrated, Noir Rose 2008 HHHH excellent concentration, Vineyard MarlboroughDolbel Estate with ripe stone-fruit flavours, Bright, fresh, still buoyantly warmth, complexity and Pinot Noir 2007 HHHHHBarrel Fermented strongly seasoned with oak, fruity Central Otago rose, suppleness. $39.95 Deeply coloured,Hawke’s Bay and a well-rounded finish. made from pinot noir. Montana Terroir Series Wairau Valley red withChardonnay 2007 HHHH Needs more time to achieve Scented and lively, with Forgotten Valley concentrated, sweet-fruitRich, complex style, French balance, but shows good delicate strawberry and Marlborough Pinot Noir delights of plums and spicesoak-fermented. Oaky complexity, texture and spice flavours and a well- 2007 HHHHH and firm but not austerebouquet, but also offers richness. $30 (UK) rounded finish. Enjoyed by From an offshoot of tannins. Fragrant, powerful,concentrated, ripe, stone- Squawking Magpie all judges. $22 the Brancott Valley, this harmonious and long. Topfruit flavours, with a slightly Gimblett Gravels youthful, highly attractive value at $30. (A, UK, US)creamy texture, and good Chardonnay 2007 HHHH pinot noir wine is weighty, withacidity and length. $30 Savoury style, full and rich, fresh, rich, cherry and plum Wither Hills Wairau with melon and grapefruit Vynfields Martinborough flavours, seasoned with Valley Marlborough flavours and finely integrated Reserve Pinot Noir toasty oak. Praised by one Pinot Noir 2007 HHHHH oak adding complexity. Still 2007 HHHHH judge as “full of pinosity”, it Still unfolding, with dense youthful. $32.95 Lovely Martinborough red with is dense, finely textured and colour and very ripe fruit Alexandra Wine an enticingly floral bouquet fragrant. $30.95 aromas, and a hint of Company Feraud’s and deep, bright colour. prunes. Concentrated Chardonnay 2007 HHHH Concentrated and silky, with a flavours of cherries, plums Fragrant, creamy bouquet. spicy, savoury complexity, and spices, in a powerful, Complex, barrel-fermented ripe tannins and a long, rich style with firm but not style (20% new, French), seductively smooth finish. grippy tannins. $45 (A, UK) weighty and finely Rated highly by all judges. textured, with lemony, Certified organic. $49 (A) slightly appley and nutty Alana Estate flavours, showing good Martinborough Pinot drive and immediacy. $21 Noir 2007 HHHHH Dark, silky and sustained, with rich, ripe cherry, plum and spice flavours, savoury and lingering. Beautifully fragrant, concentrated and supple. $60 (A, UK)140 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandCable Bay The Aurora Vineyard Peregrine Central Johner Estate The EdgeMarlborough Pinot Noir Bendigo Pinot Noir Otago Pinot Noir Gladstone Reserve Martinborough Pinot2007 HHHHH 2008 HHHHH 2007 HHHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH Noir 2008 HHHHGrown in the Brancott Savoury, dense Central Richly coloured blend of hand- Single-vineyard Wairarapa red, From Escarpment, a full-Valley, this deeply coloured Otago red, hand-picked and picked fruit from the Cromwell cropped at just one tonne/ha coloured, concentrated redred is weighty and oak-aged for 10 months. Basin (80%) and Gibbston and matured in mostly new with cherry, plum and spiceconcentrated, with layers Deeply coloured, with (20%). Concentrated, oak barrels. Full-coloured and flavours, ripe and strong.of sweet, ripe, spicy fruit concentrated plum, cherry with cherry, plum and fragrant, with concentrated Fine value at $25. (A)flavours and a long finish. and spice flavours, oak spice flavours, French oak cherry, plum and spice Waimea BarrelPerfumed, dense and complexity and a fairly firm complexity and supple flavours and a foundation of Selection Nelsonpowerful. $35 (A, UK, US) finish. Has a core of sweet tannins, it is fresh, sweet- ripe, firm tannins. Well worth Pinot Noir 2007 HHHHBannock Brae fruit and good supporting fruited and long. Delicious cellaring. $50 (A, UK) Drinking well now, this isGoldfields Pinot Noir tannins. $39 (A) now. $39 (A, UK, US) a concentrated, finely2007 HHHHH Wooing Tree Margrain Home balanced red, deeplyFrom Bannockburn, in Central Otago Pinot Tarras Vineyards Block Martinborough coloured, with good muscleCentral Otago, this wine Noir 2007 HHHHH The Steppes Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH and complexity. Cherryish,has full, bright colour and Lovely, deeply layered, single- Central Otago Pinot Richly coloured, with fresh spicy and supple, it’s pricedconcentrated, ripe flavours vineyard Cromwell red with Noir 2008 HHHH1/2 plum, cherry, herb and spice sharply at $23.90. (A, UK, US)of cherries, plums, herbs full, bright colour, sweet-fruit Single-vineyard red, deeply flavours showing excellent Allan Scott Houndsand spices. Floral, fresh, delights and concentrated, coloured and sweet-fruited, concentration. Savoury Marlborough Pinot Noirsavoury and supple, it’s vibrant, cherry and plum with strong cherry/spice and complex, with a well- 2007 HHHHmaturing very gracefully. flavours. Heady, big, supple flavours, warm and savoury. rounded finish. $52 (UK) Scented, floral wine withGreat value at $28. and rich. $39 (A, UK) Dense, rich wine with good Palliser Estate deep colour, ripe, savoury, Valli Bannockburn presence. $42 (A, UK, US) Martinborough Pinot concentrated flavours andGrasshopper Rock Vineyard Central Otago Big Sky Martinborough Noir 2007 HHHH supple tannins. ShouldCentral Otago Pinot Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH Elegant, youthful wine with mature well. $35 (A)Noir 2008 HHHHH 2008 HHHH1/2 Generous, tightly structured deep, bright colour andGreat value, single-vineyard Generous red, deeply coloured red with full, bright colour. a strong surge of cherry, Blind Riverred, grown at Alexandra and mouthfilling, with rich, Strong cherry, plum plum, dried herb and spice Marlborough Pinot Noirand matured in French oak ripe cherry, plum and spice and dried herb flavours, flavours, seasoned with 2007 HHHHbarrels. Deep and rich, with flavours, showing excellent with smoky oak adding toasty oak. Savoury and Floral, silky textured,ripe cherry, plum, herb structure and complexity. One complexity and a backbone complex, with ripe, supple Awatere Valley redand spice flavours, hints of judge rated it five stars. $55 of firm, ripe tannins. $39 tannins. $42 with deep colour andraisins and coffee, and good, Renato Estate Bladen Marlborough concentrated, plummy,savoury complexity. Rated Nelson Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH Clos Marguerite cherryish flavours, still tighthighly by all judges. $30 (A) 2007 HHHH1/2 Deeply coloured, with rich Marlborough Pinot Noir and youthful. $36.99 (A, UK)Villa Maria Cellar Drinking well now, this is cherry, plum and spice 2007 HHHH Goldridge EstateSelection Marlborough a blend of fruit grown on flavours, a hint of mint, and Awatere Valley red, scented, Premium ReservePinot Noir 2007 HHHHH the coast, at Kina, and on mouthfilling body. Firm and dark and rich, with dense Marlborough Pinot NoirBeautifully perfumed the Waimea Plains. Full- youthful. $32.95 (A, UK) flavours, ripe and savoury, 2007 HHHHand sweet-fruited, with coloured and weighty, it is Te Mania Reserve Nelson and fine-grained tannins. Dark, perfumed red, fleshydeep ruby colour and rich, concentrated, ripe, cherryish Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH One judge noted a “briary”, and sweet-fruited, with richconcentrated flavours, ripe, and spicy, with a savoury, Supple, generous red with “rhubarb” influence. $35 NZ cherry, plum, spice and olivesupple and long. Great buy nutty complexity. $30 deep colour and strong, flavours, supple and finelyat $29.99. (A, UK) Cable Bay Reserve cherryish, slightly herbal structured. Excellent valueMondillo Central Otago Marlborough Pinot Noir flavours. Good weight, with at $21.95.Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHH 2007 HHHH1/2 some ‘forest floor’ complexity Delegat’s AwatereFleshy and warm Bendigo Deeply coloured, generous and a well-rounded finish. Valley Pinot Noirred, deeply coloured, with Brancott Valley red with $34.99 (A, UK) 2007 HHHHlovely fruit sweetness and cherry/spice aromas Deeply coloured, cherryish reda strong surge of cherryish, seasoned with smoky oak, with rich, sweet-fruit flavoursplummy flavour, rich, ripe and hints of prunes and seasoned with biscuityand rounded. Opulent, raisins. Powerful, weighty, oak. Powerful, savourywith excellent weight and sweet-fruited and densely and complex, with a firmpersistence. $40 packed, with a creamy foundation of tannin. $38.95 texture and long finish. $55 Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 141

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandDelegat’s Reserve Saint Clair Pioneer Vidal Reserve Stopbank Judge Rock The Crater Rim BendigoMarlborough Pinot Noir Block 15 The Strip Hawke’s Bay Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot Terrace Central Otago2007 HHHH Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH 2007 HHHH Noir 2008 HHHH Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHDeeply coloured and Elegant, full-coloured red Ruby-hued red, hand- Mouthfilling, well-structured Built to last, thisconcentrated, with spicy, from the lower Waihopai picked at Maraekakaho and red from Alexandra with rich, concentrated, single-cherryish, slightly herbal Valley. Plummy, spicy, ripe- matured for 10 months ripe, cherryish flavours and vineyard red was maturedflavours, seasoned with toasty fruit flavours, youthful and in French oak barriques. good, savoury complexity. in seasoned French oakoak. Good value at $27.95. finely perfumed. $32.95 (UK) Floral and complex, fresh, Couples density with barrels. Full and youthfulLawson’s Dry Hills Shepherds Ridge spicy and full-flavoured, elegance. Still unfolding; in colour, it is warm, spicyMarlborough Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot Noir rich and savoury, with silky open mid-2010+. $39 and rich, with good, savoury2007 HHHH 2007 HHHH tannins, good length and the Lowburn Ferry complexity. Dense andFragrant and ruby-hued, From Wither Hills, a floral, structure to age. $29.99 Central Otago Pinot chewy, with presence. $31with strong plum, finely structured red with Alexandra Wine Noir 2008 HHHH Valli Gibbston Vineyardcherry and spice flavours, vibrant, cherry and plum Company Davishon Full-flavoured, firmly Central Otago Pinotshowing some savoury flavours showing excellent Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH structured red from Lowburn, Noir 2008 HHHHcomplexity, and supple ripeness, depth and Vibrant, supple red, grown in the Cromwell Basin. Deeply coloured andtannins. $28.95 (A, UK, US) suppleness. $28 at Alexandra, with full, bright Deeply coloured, with rich, concentrated, with theMatakana Estate Stoneleigh Rapaura colour, a core of sweet fruit ripe, cherryish fruit characters herbal notes typical of theMarlborough Pinot Noir Series Marlborough and fresh, concentrated cherry and a spicy, savoury elevated Gibbston district,2007 HHHH Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH and herb flavours, seasoned complexity. $41 (A, UK, US) fresh, vibrant fruit flavours,Concentrated, with deep, Mouthfilling, moderately with French oak. $35 Thornbury Central Otago good texture and a lingeringbright colour and strong firm, savoury wine with alex.gold Central Otago Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH finish. $55plum, spice and olive cherry, plum and spice Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH “Cuddly,” according to one Wooing Treeflavours. Sweet-fruited, with flavours, showing good Alexandra red with deep, judge, this Bannockburn Central Otago Pinotripe tannins and smoky, complexity. Fleshy, rich and cherryish flavours and a red is deeply coloured, in Noir 2008 HHHHsavoury complexity. $32 long. $31.95 strong seasoning of French a vibrantly fruity style with Single-vineyard, CromwellPyramid Valley Triplebank Awatere oak. Richly coloured, cherry and herb notes, fine- red, full-coloured, scentedGrowers Collection Valley Pinot Noir savoury and complex, with a grained tannins and excellent and supple, with ripe cherry,Eaton Family Vineyard 2007 HHHH fresh, crisp, almost peppery flavour depth. $31 (UK) plum and spice flavoursPinot Noir 2007 HHHH Full-coloured, intensely finish. $29.95 Northburn Station showing excellent depth andElegant, supple wine with varietal red with cherry/spice Bannock Brae Barrel Central Otago Pinot a strong seasoning of smokyconcentrated flavours, flavours, showing some Selection Pinot Noir Noir 2007 HHHH French oak. $41 (A, UK)showing good ripeness and savoury complexity. Sweet- 2008 HHHH Savoury, complex style Wild Earthspicy, savoury complexity. fruited, with integrated, Single-vineyard Bannockburn with full, bright colour and Central Otago Pinot$55 (A, UK, US) spicy oak in an elegant, red, ruby-hued, with sweet- a fragrant bouquet, slightly Noir 2008 HHHHSaint Clair Pioneer supple style offering good fruit delights, strong cherry earthy and funky. Strong, ripe Stylish red, concentratedBlock 5 Bull Block drinkability. $23.99 and plum flavours and cherry and plum flavours, and supple, with vibrantPinot Noir 2007 HHHH Whitehaven supple tannins. Elegant and with excellent weight and cherry, plum, spice and nutDeeply coloured, with strong Marlborough Pinot Noir finely textured. $48 texture. $42 (A, UK) flavours, showing goodcherry, plum and herb 2007 HHHH Bannock Brae ripeness and complexity.flavours and firm tannin Finely balanced, charming red Goldfields Pinot Noir Tarras Vineyards $41 (A, UK, US)backbone. Powerful and with full, ruby colour, sweet- 2008 HHHH Central Otago Pinot Wooing Treesweet-fruited, with impressive fruit delights and excellent Already enjoyable but still Noir 2008 HHHH Beetle Juice Pinot Noirdensity and slightly grippy depth of cherry/plum flavours. developing, this elegant, Youthful, deeply coloured, 2008 HHHHfinish. $32.95 (UK) Very supple, ripe and fragrant. finely balanced Bannockburn elegant red, grown in The Rich, single-vineyard redSaint Clair Pioneer $31.95 (A, UK, US) red is ruby-hued, with very Steppes and The Canyon from Cromwell, in CentralBlock 14 Doctor’s Creek Spy Valley Marlborough good depth of ripe cherry, vineyards. Mouthfilling, with Otago. Full-coloured, withPinot Noir 2007 HHHH Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH plum and spice flavours, a excellent depth of warm, strong cherry, plum andDeep ruby, savoury wine Deeply coloured, vibrantly subtle French oak influence, spicy flavour and a backbone herb flavours, showingwith excellent depth of fruity and supple, with gentle tannins and a of firm, ripe-fruit tannins. good, savoury complexity.cherry, plum and spice strong plum/cherry lingering finish. $28 $32 (A, UK, US) Bold and chewy. $28 (A)flavours, well-handled oak flavours, ripe tannins and a Hawkdun Rise HRand fairly firm tannins. lingering finish. Good value Central Otago Pinot tempranillo$32.95 (A, UK, US) at $28.95. (A, UK, US) Noir 2007 HHHH Trinity Hill High Full, brightly coloured, Trinity Hill Gimblett Country Hawke’s Bay single-vineyard Alexandra Gravels Tempranillo Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH wine, still youthful, with 2007 HHHHH Floral and sweet-fruited, ripe cherry, plum and spice Dark, fragrant, full-bodied with the power to age. The flavours woven with fresh red, savoury and complex, colour is full and bright, acidity, firm tannins and with concentrated, ripe while the palate offers good complexity. $37 blackberry, spice and dark strong, ripe raspberry/spice chocolate flavours. Stylish, flavours, with good density, with good texture and firm tannins and oak richness and a long, firm complexity. $39 (A, UK) finish. $29142 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandTrinity Hill Church Road Hawke’s Villa Maria Cellar Mission Reserve cabernet sauvignonGimblett Gravels Bay Merlot Cabernet Selection Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Merlot & blendsHawke’s Bay Tempranillo Sauvignon 2007 HHHHH Merlot Cabernet 2007 HHHH2008 HHHH1/2 Top buy from Pernod Ricard Sauvignon 2007 HHHHH Powerful but elegant Sacred HillFragrant, dark red with NZ. Dark and generous, Dark, strapping blend of Gimblett Gravels red, Helmsman Hawkes Baypowerful blackcurrant, dark with ripe blackcurrant, merlot (47%), cabernet matured in French oak. Cabernet Merlotchocolate, plum and spice plum and spice flavours sauvignon (40%), malbec Deeply coloured and fleshy, 2007 HHHHHflavours, seasoned with fine and finely balanced oak. and cabernet franc, grown with strong blackcurrant Powerful, concentratedquality oak. Elegant, vibrant, Concentrated, with a fine mostly in the Gimblett and plum flavours, finely Gimblett Gravels blend offirmly structured wine, still tannin structure and a rich, Gravels and hand-picked. integrated oak and ripe, cabernet sauvignon (53%),very youthful; open mid- lingering finish. $25.95 Masculine style, with supple tannins. $25 (UK) merlot (42%) and cabernet2010+. $29 (A, UK) dense, firm flavours of Squawking Magpie The franc (5%), oak-aged for 18 Dolbel Estate blackcurrants and spices, Chatterer Merlot Syrah months. Dark and fleshy,merlot & blends Hawke’s Bay Merlot and firm, youthful tannins. Malbec 2007 HHHH with bold blackcurrant, spice Cabernet 2007 HHHHH Great buy at $21.99. Boldly coloured Gimblett and coffee flavours, complex,Church Road Cuve Series Elegant, savoury blend of Vidal Hawke’s Bay Gravels blend, still very firm and long. $64.90 (UK)Merlot 2007 HHHHH merlot (70%) and cabernet Merlot Cabernet youthful. Packed with Clearview ReservePowerful, richly fragrant sauvignon (30%), hand- Sauvignon 2007 HHHHH plum and spice flavours, Cabernet Francand concentrated red from picked and French oak-aged. Another great buy from the fresh and ripe, with a hint 2007 HHHHHPernod Ricard NZ with Dark, with a highly fragrant, Villa Maria stable. Deeply of chocolate, and finely Classy, very elegant red,bold, bright colour and spicy, nutty bouquet, rich coloured blend of merlot balanced oak and tannins. hand-picked and blended withdense cassis, plum and blackcurrant, herb and plum (46%), cabernet sauvignon Best 2010+. $24.95 merlot (7%) and cabernetspice flavours. Strong oak flavours, and fine-grained (39%), cabernet franc and Vidal Reserve sauvignon (2%), and maturedinfluence combines well tannins. Excellent texture, malbec, matured in French Hawke’s Bay Merlot for 16 months in French oakwith dense, sweet-fruit complexity and length. $30 and American oak barrels. Cabernet 2007 HHHH barriques. Deep, youthfulcharacters, a creamy- Thornbury Hawke’s Bay Very elegant, Bordeaux-like Attractive Gimblett Gravels colour, floral bouquet andsmooth texture and Merlot 2007 HHHHH wine with rich blackcurrant, blend of merlot (46%) and rich blackcurrant, plum, herbimpressive length. $25.95 Great value, this hand- plum, spice and nut flavours, cabernet sauvignon (46%), and nut flavours in a distinctly picked Gimblett Gravels red fresh and long. $19.99 with a splash of malbec, Bordeaux-like style. BestSacred Hill Brokenstone (9% cabernet sauvignon Villa Maria Reserve matured for 20 months in 2011+. $40 (A, UK)Hawkes Bay Merlot and 2% malbec) is densely Hawke’s Bay Merlot French oak barriques. Boldly Church Road2007 HHHHH coloured, with a complex, 2007 HHHHH coloured, with toasty oak Reserve CabernetDark, brooding youthful nutty fragrance. Tight and Densely coloured, with a and concentrated, plummy, Merlot 2007 HHHHHGimblett Gravels red, 91% youthful, very ripe and fragrant bouquet, saturated berryish, slightly chocolatey This “complete” Pernodmerlot, with small portions dense, with blackcurrant, with dark berry fruits flavours. $29.99 Ricard NZ red rompedof cabernet franc and plum, licorice, spice and nut and savoury oak. Highly Spy Valley Marlborough straight to a five-star ratingcabernet sauvignon, aged flavours and lovely texture. concentrated, with very fine Merlot 2007 HHHH from all judges. Dense andin French oak barriques. Has a long future. (From tannins and an array of ripe Deeply coloured, fruity warm, it is boldly coloured,Concentrated and sweet- Villa Maria) $19.99 blackcurrant, licorice, coffee red with concentrated with concentrated, veryfruited, with dense, ripe Trinity Hill Gimblett and spice flavours. $49.99 plum/spice flavours, slightly ripe blackcurrant, herb andplum, blackcurrant and spice Gravels The Gimblett Clearview Enigma nutty and savoury, a hint of nut flavours, good, savouryflavours, and fine-grained 2007 HHHHH 2007 HHHH1/2 coffee, and firm, youthful complexity, and a firmtannins. $64.90 (UK) Refined, youthful blend of Dense, warm, merlot- tannins. $22.95 underlay of tannin. $35.95 merlot (51%) with cabernet dominant red (76%) with Trinity Hill Gimblett sauvignon, petit verdot, cabernet franc, cabernet Gravels The Gimblett cabernet franc and malbec, sauvignon and malbec in the 2006 HHHH matured in principally French blend. Highly concentrated, Dark, highly concentrated, oak barrels. Deeply coloured with blackcurrant, spice, merlot-based blend (57%), and fragrant, with fresh coffee and chocolate flavours, with smaller portions of blackcurrant, plum, spice complex and firm. Two judges cabernet sauvignon, petit and slight coffee flavours, found the tannins slightly verdot, cabernet franc and subtle oak and a rich, drying; the other scored it five malbec, barrel-aged for 18 lingering finish. $29 (A, UK) stars. $40 (A, UK, US) months. Rich blackcurrant, Mills Reef plum, spice and coffee Reserve Merlot Malbec flavours, and toasty oak. 2007 HHHH Should reward cellaring. Generous, firmly structured $29 (A, UK) Gimblett Gravels blend of Johner Cabernet Merlot merlot (55%) and malbec Malbec 2007 HHHH (45%), matured mainly Classy, deeply coloured in French oak barrels. Wairarapa blend of cabernet Concentrated plum and sauvignon, merlot, cabernet spice flavours, ripe, sweet- franc and malbec, grown fruit characters and good in the Gladstone and complexity. $24.95 (US) Martinborough districts. Fragrant, with strong, ripe, brambly and spicy flavours, complex and concentrated. $39.50 (A, UK) Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 143

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandChurch Road Cuve Matariki Cabernet Mission Jewelstone Passage Rock Sacred Hill DeerstalkersSeries Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Merlot Franc Waiheke Island Syrah Syrah 2007 HHHHHSauvignon 2007 HHHHH 2007 HHHH 2007 HHHH 2008 HHHHH A star wine. Dark andDark, with blackcurrant, plum Sturdy, rich blend of Gimblett Gravels blend of Bold, bright colour, with rich, dense, with enticinglyand spice flavours, supple, cabernet sauvignon (57%), cabernet sauvignon (46%), highly concentrated plum fragrant bouquet ofripe and highly concentrated. merlot (28%), cabernet merlot (31%), cabernet and black pepper flavours, ripe berries and violets.Finely textured, approachable franc (10%) and syrah franc (19%) and petit firm and very youthful. Ripe, Concentrated blackcurrant,wine with a hint of herbs (5%), grown in the Gimblett verdot (4%), matured in sweet-fruit flavours, with a plum and spice flavours,and gentle tannins. “More Gravels and barrel-aged for oak casks. Dark, with rich solid underlay of tannin and with well-integrated, smokyBordeaux in style,” noted one 21 months. Boldly coloured, flavours of blackcurrants, good complexity. $35 oak and a finely textured,judge. Great buy at $25.95 with dense blackcurrant, spices and herbs, and firm Cottage Block Hawke’s long finish. “Seamless” andClearview Estate Old plum, spice and mint tannins. Sweet-fruited and Bay Syrah 2007 HHHHH “sexy”. $64.90 (UK)Olive Block 2007 HHHHH flavours. $26.90 complex. $35 (A, UK) Pernod Ricard NZ’s wine Villa Maria CellarDark, complex blend of Villa Maria Reserve Passage Rock went straight to five stars Selection Hawke’s Baycabernet sauvignon (48%), Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Reserve Waiheke Island from all judges. Dark, Syrah 2007 HHHHHcabernet franc (25%), merlot Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon powerful and concentrated Elegant style, intensely(14%) and malbec (13%). 2007 HHHHH Merlot 2008 HHHH and intensely varietal, with varietal, youthful and supple,Strong blackcurrant, plum, Beautifully fragrant, inky- Classy young red with deep, complex plum, black pepper with vibrant plum and blackolive and spice flavours hued Gimblett Gravels blend bright colour, good weight and toasty oak flavours. Tight- pepper flavours, fresh andand firm tannins. Vibrant of cabernet sauvignon (69%), and strong blackcurrant, knit, strong and youthful, with concentrated. Floral bouquetand youthful, with a strong, merlot (29%) and malbec berry, spice and nut powerful young tannins, it (3% viognier), with plenty ofnutty oak influence, it should (2%), matured in French flavours, good density and needs time. $38.95 new French and American oakmature well. $35 (A, UK, US) oak barriques. Rich, ripe, complexity. Finely balanced and excellent fruit intensity.Matariki Reserve blackcurrant-like flavours and supple, with impressive Mills Reef Gimblett Drink now or cellar. $29.99Cabernet Sauvignon with hints of tar and licorice, ripeness and richness. $40 Gravels Hawkes Bay Villa Maria2007 HHHHH firm, fine-grained tannins and Elspeth Trust Vineyard Reserve Hawke’s BayPraised by all judges, this lovely length. $49.99 syrah Syrah 2007 HHHHH Syrah 2007 HHHHHhand-picked Gimblett Gravels Mills Reef Elspeth Trust Distinguished, single- Densely coloured and power-blend of cabernet sauvignon Vineyard Cabernet Mills Reef Gimblett vineyard red, hand-picked packed Gimblett Gravels(90%), merlot (5%) and Sauvignon 2007 HHHH Gravels Hawkes Bay in the Gimblett Gravels red, matured in French oakcabernet franc (5%) is deeply Very elegant, single-vineyard Elspeth Syrah and matured in French oak barriques. Fragrant bouquetcoloured, fleshy and ripe, red (15% cabernet franc), 2007 HHHHH barriques. Dark and sweet- of dark berries, tar, anise andwith blackcurrant, plum and grown in the Gimblett Gravels Rich, full style, grown and fruited, with a peppery violets, with bold plum, blackspice flavours, a hint of mint, and matured in French oak hand-harvested at two sites fragrance and dense pepper and licorice flavours,and fine-grained tannins. barriques. Fragrant, with rich in the Gimblett Gravels, blackcurrant, plum and very fine tannins and goodPower and elegance. $39.90 blackcurrant, green olive and fermented with indigenous pepper flavours, firm and complexity. Should be long-Babich Irongate nut flavours and fine, supple yeasts and matured in structured. $39.95 lived. $59.99Cabernet Merlot Franc tannins. Distinct but attractive French oak barriques.2005 HHHH herbal element. $39.95 Dark, with ripe, sweet-fruit“Pure cassis,” noted one characters, strong, intenselyjudge. Rich and supple varietal plum, spice andGimblett Gravels blend licorice flavours, and silkyof cabernet sauvignon tannins. $39.95(46%), merlot (45%)and cabernet franc (9%).Distinctly Bordeaux-like red,generous, complex andvery harmonious. Drink nowonwards. $34.95 (UK) star ratings  Passage Rock Reserve C J Pask Declaration Mission Reserve Waiheke Island Syrah Syrah 2007 HHHHH Hawke’s Bay SyrahThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2008 HHHHH Beautifully floral bouquet, 2007 HHHH1/2excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Densely coloured, with a plummy and spicy, with Great buy. Sturdy, boldlyAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry beautifully fragrant, peppery hints of coffee and sweet coloured Gimblett Gravels redprofessionals and are compared in peer bouquet. Highly concentrated oak. Bold, rich palate, with with a lifted, floral bouquet (2%classes by three judges. plum, cherry and spice substantial body and deep viognier). French and AmericanCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, flavours, rich, finely textured plum, spice and nut flavours. oak-aged, with concentrated,a major mail-order business. and flowing. $55 Silky textured, with lovely very ripe plum and spiceCD Cellar door price. length. $50 (A, UK) flavours, excellent density andCDO Cellar door only. complexity. Silky textured, withSO Sold out. a long finish. $25 (A, UK)$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 158. Recommended cellaring (years).144 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2009 new zealandMission Estate Coopers Creek Squawking Magpie Margrain Botrytis Forrest BotrytisedWinery Vineyard SV Chalk Ridge The Stoned Crow Chenin Blanc 2008 Riesling 2008Selection Ohiti Road Hawke’s Bay Syrah Gimblett Gravels (375ml) HHHHH (375ml) HHHH1/2Syrah 2008 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHH Syrah 2007 HHHH Rare Martinborough beauty, Very honeyed, with aExcellent drink-young style, Fleshy, firm red, hand-picked, Dense, youthful colour. picked from 25-year-old powerful botrytis influencewith 2% viognier. Deeply blended with viognier (4%) Concentrated blackcurrant, vines in early June and stop- and concentrated, apricot-coloured, with a very and matured in French oak pepper and nut flavours, fermented at 240g/litre of like flavours. Oily, ripe andattractive, floral, peppery casks. Full-coloured, with rich, with firm tannins. Well residual sugar. Light gold, luscious. $40bouquet and a concentrated, ripe plum, black pepper and worth cellaring. $39.95 with an enticing, honeyed Paritua Dinah Nobleberryish, finely textured palate slight coffee flavours, showing Trinity Hill Gimblett fragrance and concentrated, Harvest Semillon 2008with supple tannins. $19 good complexity. $26 (UK) Gravels Hawke’s Bay ripe flavours of citrus fruits (375ml) HHHHShipwreck Bay Syrah Cypress Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2007 HHHH and apricots. Should be very Weighty, Sauternes-style2007 HHHH Syrah 2007 HHHH Firm and youthful, deeply long-lived. $38 dessert wine, rich andFrom Okahu Estate, a deeply Deeply coloured, aromatic, coloured, floral (4% viognier) honeyed. Sweet, with ripecoloured blend of estate- vibrantly fruity red with and mouthfilling, with strong, Okahu Old fruit flavours enriched bygrown, Northland (50%) and plummy, peppery, distinctly ripe plum and black pepper Brother John’s Tawny noble rot, an oily texture andTe Hana (north of Auckland) spicy flavours, showing flavours, and earthy notes Port HHHH1/2 considerable complexity.fruit. Concentrated wine with some leathery, gamey adding complexity. $29 (A, UK) Top-flight example of Drink now or cellar. $36.50plum, spice and slight herb notes. Finely textured, with Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay New Zealand fortified, Trinity Hill Gimblettflavours, savoury and supple, good complexity. One judge Syrah 2008 HHHH blended from Northland and Gravels Hawke’s Bayand good complexity. Great scored it five stars. $24.99 Instantly attractive, floral, Auckland wines, oak-aged Noble Viognier 2008value at $17.99. (UK, US) Gunn Estate Silistria supple, Gimblett Gravels for eight years. Tawny- (375ml) HHHHBabich Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2007 HHHH blend of syrah (95%) and hued, with sweet, raisiny Honeyed, rich wine fromSyrah 2007 HHHH Youthful, with ageing viognier (5%). Full, youthful flavours, excellent richness botrytised grapes, hand-Top buy. Spicy and silky potential, made from colour, with pure, ripe and ‘rancio’ complexity. picked and barrel-fermented.textured, with strong plum hand-picked grapes and plum/spice flavours, subtle However, all three judges Sweet and concentrated,and black pepper flavours, matured for a year in French oak and a deliciously silky noted it could easily pass for with strong, ripe flavoursgamey, savoury notes oak barriques. Dark and texture. $19 (A, UK) an oloroso sherry. $30 of citrus fruits, apricots andadding complexity and a fragrant, with a hint of Riverby Estate honey and gentle acidityfloral bouquet. $19.95 (UK) violets, it has concentrated, sweet white Marlborough giving a rounded finish. ripe blackcurrant, plum & fortified Noble Riesling 2008 Already delicious. $29C J Pask Hawkes Bay and pepper flavours, and (375ml) HHHHH Alana Estate L’AperitifGimblett Road a backbone of fine, silky Pegasus Bay Aria Light gold, with richly scented, 2008 (375ml) HHHHSyrah 2007 HHHH tannins. $32.90 (A, UK) Late Picked Riesling honeyed bouquet and intense, Perfumed, muskyRated well by all judges, Mills Reef Gimblett 2008 HHHHH late harvest fruit flavours. Martinborough rieslingand great value. Estate- Gravels Hawkes Bay Classy, very elegant Waipara Very pure, rich, sweet and with concentrated, citrusy,grown and barrel-matured, Elspeth Syrah wine with a rich, floral, luscious. $20 (A, US) limey flavours and a gentlyit is dark and highly fragrant, 2007 HHHH gently honeyed bouquet and Margrain Botrytis sweet, crisp finish. Lovely,with generous plum, black Serious, complex style, fresh, pure, late harvest fruit Sauvignon Blanc 2008 late harvest style, designedpepper and licorice flavours, grown at two sites in flavours, showing excellent (375ml) HHHH1/2 as an aperitif rather than awell-integrated oak and a the Gimblett Gravels and richness. Finely focused, Light gold, Sauternes- dessert wine. $35 (A, UK)firm backbone of tannin. Well matured in French oak with a luscious sweetness style dessert wine from Waimea Bolitho SVworth cellaring. $20 (A, UK) barriques. Firm, spicy and coupled with mouth-watering Martinborough with Nelson Noble Riesling slightly earthy, with a lifted, acidity. A beauty. $36.95 (A) mouthfilling body. Lush and 2005 (375ml) HHHH peppery fragrance and rich, sweet (284g/litre of residual Deep amber. Treacly, sweet savoury palate. $39.95 sugar), with rich, ripe, honey wine with apricot, tea and Mills Reef Reserve and apricot flavours, crisp honey flavours, showing Gimblett Gravels and lingering. $28 some maturity. $29.90 Hawkes Bay Syrah Waimea Bolitho Shingle Peak Reserve 2007 HHHH SV Nelson Noble Botrytis Riesling 2007 Powerful, Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2006 (375ml) HHHH red (2% viognier), French (375ml) HHHH1/2 Very elegant, citrusy wine with oak-aged. Full-coloured, with Honeyed bouquet, showing rich but not overwhelming a spicy, toasty bouquet and barrel-ferment complexity. botrytis influence. Apricot rich, complex palate, plummy Light gold, with deliciously notes, with an oily texture and and peppery. Good weight, concentrated, peachy good intensity. $21.95 texture and length. $24.95 (A) flavours, sweet (217g/litre Squawking Magpie of residual sugar), crisp and The Chatterer Hawke’s long. $29.90 Bay Syrah 2007 HHHH Deeply coloured Gimblett Gravels red with a floral, peppery bouquet. Mouthfilling, with blackcurrant and spice flavours showing very good depth, complexity and texture, and youthful tannins. Priced right at $24.95. Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 145

micchoaoepler BEST OF 2009 RELEASES

MICHAEL COOPER’S BEST OF 2009 RELEASES new zealand Greystone Waipara Villa Maria Amisfield Central Otago Craggy Range Gewurztraminer 2008 Reserve Hawke’s Bay Pinot Noir 2007 Gimblett GravelsBlackenbrook Nelson Musky perfume, showing Merlot 2006 Distinguished wine, notably Vineyard Viognier 2008Riesling 2008 exellent intensity. Classy red, deep and youthful dense, rich and supple. Full- Authoritative Hawke’s BayFull of potential, yet already Mouthfilling (14% alc) and in colour, grown in the Gimblett coloured, with deliciously ripe, wine, weighty and lush.drinking well, this estate- soft, with ripe, gently sweet Gravels and French oak- sweet-fruit flavours of cherries, Finely scented, with fresh,grown wine is tight and flavours of lychees and matured for nearly two years. plums and spices and a long, rich flavours of peaches andrich, with substantial body, spices, impressively delicate Mouthfilling, rich and flowing, finely textured finish. Classy, apricots, very pure anda sliver of sweetness and and rich, with a touch of with powerful, ripe plum/ generous red, still unfolding. soft, enriched by a subtlelovely depth of citrusy, complexity. Unfolding spice flavours, very complex, $39.95 (A, UK, US) oak. Powerful but finelyslightly spicy flavours. From beautifully. Drink now or savoury and tightly structured, The Doctors’ balanced, allowing viognier’sthe earliest harvest to date, cellar. $26.75 (A) and lovely varietal definition Noble Chenin Blanc delicate, floral notes to shineit’s still very youthful, with Martinborough Vineyard and depth. $50 (A, UK) 2008 (375ml) through. $37.95notable ripeness, delicacy Chardonnay 2007 Pegasus Bay From Forrest Estate in Pegasus Bayand length. $23 (A) Notably weighty and rich, Chardonnay 2007 Marlborough, a gorgeous Chardonnay 2007Clos de Ste Anne with delicious depth of Waipara wine, straw-hued, sweet wine with a richly Powerful yet elegantNaboth’s Vineyard ripe, stone-fruit flavours with a complex bouquet, honeyed fragrance. Waipara wine with greatChardonnay 2007 seasoned with toasty oak. A slightly funky and nutty. Concentrated, with an oily personality. Complex, slightlyPowerful, complex, single- top vintage, creamy textured Mouthfilling and rich, with texture, it has beautifully ripe funky bouquet, reflectingvineyard Gisborne wine from and seamless. Drink now or stone-fruit flavours, dry, peach and apricot flavours, fermentation with indigenousa top vintage. Still youthful, cellar. $42 complex and long. Powerful, enriched but not swamped by yeasts. Impressively weighty,it is very sturdy, ripe and Martinborough firm wine, elegant and finely noble rot, good acid spine and with rich stone-fruit flavours,concentrated, with a lovely Vineyard Jackson Block structured, with loads of lovely freshness and harmony. nutty, complex, dry and long.array of peachy, slightly Riesling 2008 personality and excellent Drink now or cellar. $25 $35.95 (A, UK, US)nutty, creamy and honeyed A classic dry style with real potential. $35.95 (A, UK, US) Matariki Hawke’s Bayflavours, good acid balance power and potential, from Craggy Range Block 14 Craggy Range Gimblett Quintology 2005and excellent potential. 18-year-old vines. Intense, Gimblett Gravels Gravels Merlot 2007 Classy, distinctly Bordeaux-Certified organic. $53.50 ripe flavours of citrus fruits Vineyard Syrah 2007 Classy Hawke’s Bay red, like blend of merlot, cabernetClos de Ste Anne Les and limes, with a hint of Fragrant, highly concentrated showing lovely richness and sauvignon, cabernet franc,Arbres Viognier 2007 passionfruit, and a long, Hawke’s Bay red with deep, texture. Deeply coloured, malbec and syrah. FragrantFrom Millton, a powerful, daringly dry, yet finely purple-flushed colour. Supple with a fragrant bouquet bouquet of cassis and spice.single-vineyard Gisborne balanced finish. Should and rich, with intensely of plums and spices, it is Lovely, blackcurrant-likewine, hill-grown, with deep, flourish for a decade. $26 varietal, very fresh and vibrant concentrated and supple, flavours, slightly plummy andbeautifully ripe flavours of Martinborough Vineyard blackcurrant/spice flavours, with ripe, plummy, distinctly spicy, with finely integratedstone-fruit and spice and Pinot Noir 2007 toasty oak adding complexity spicy flavours and very fine- oak, impressive complexitya subtle seasoning of oak. From vines up to 28 years and ripe, supple tannins. Still grained tannins. Excellent and firm, ripe tannins. Built toWeighty and complex, with old, this instantly likeable red youthful, but already drinking value at $29.95. (A, UK) last. $50 (A)a hint of honey and a slightly also shows real density and well. $37.95 Selaks Foundersoily texture, it’s still unfolding. potential. Deeply coloured Reserve Hawkes BayCertified organic. $53.50 and finely perfumed, it has Chardonnay 2007 concentrated, beautifully Notably refined and richKingsmill Tippet’s ripe plum, cherry and spice wine, for enjoying now orDam Central Otago flavours, complex, savoury cellaring. Fragrant, complex,Pinot Noir 2007 and supple. $73 savoury bouquet, with rich,Finely scented, flowing Villa Maria Reserve grapefruit-like flavours, tight,wine with lovely generosity, Barrique Fermented mealy and finely balancedvibrancy and harmony. A Chardonnay 2007 with toasty oak. Still vibrantsingle-vineyard red, grown Fragrant, creamy bouquet, and youthful, with excellentat Bannockburn, it is deeply leading into a very rich, delicacy, complexity andcoloured, with impressively elegant, concentrated and length. $27.99concentrated cherry, complex Gisborne wine withplum and spice flavours, ripe peach and grapefruit Akarua Cadencedeliciously savoury and flavours, hints of toasty Central Otago Pinotsupple. Should be at its best oak and butterscotch, and Noir 2007from mid-2009 onwards. $47 lovely richness, texture and Very graceful, harmonious harmony. Great drinking red that also has substance now onwards. $36 and complexity. Estate-grown at Bannockburn, it is deeply coloured and richly fragrant, with concentrated plum, cherry and spice flavours and ripe, smooth tannins. Drink now or cellar. $45 (A, UK) Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 147

MICHAEL COOPER’S BEST OF 2009 RELEASES new zealandClearview Enigma 2007 Clearview Pinot Noir Craggy Range Eradus Awatere Valley Whitehaven GregDistinguished Hawke’s Bay Des Trois 2007 The Quarry 2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignonblend of merlot (principally) From a Hawke’s Bay-based Youthful yet approachable, Blanc 2009 Blanc 2009with cabernet franc, winery, this powerful red this cabernet sauvignon- Weighty, rich and rounded, Dedicated to founder Gregcabernet sauvignon and is a distinctive regional based blend (83%) was with sweet-fruit delights, White (1952-2007), this single-malbec. Densely coloured, blend of Wairarapa, Waipara grown in the Gimblett deep gooseberry and vineyard wine was grown inwith notably concentrated and Central Otago grapes. Gravels and matured in lime flavours, a slightly the Awatere Valley. A shiningflavours of plums, spices, Deep and fairly youthful French oak barriques. Deeply minerally streak and tomato example of the vintage, itcoffee and nuts. Still in colour, finely scented, coloured, it is mouthfilling stalk characters typical offers very rich gooseberry,unfolding, with excellent with mouthfilling body and (14.5% alc.) and supple, with of the Awatere. Notably melon and lime flavours,complexity and long-term strong plum, cherry and powerful blackcurrant, plum concentrated, it’s priced showing excellent purity,potential. $40 (A, UK, US) spice flavours. Drinking and spice flavours. Open sharply. $18.99 (A, UK, US) delicacy and length. $24.95Churton Marlborough superbly. $40 (A, UK, US) 2012+. $59.95 Esk Valley Marlborough Farmgate Noble HarvestPinot Noir 2007 Sacred Hill Deer Craggy Range Gimblett Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Riesling 2007 (375ml)Notably complex style, Stalkers Hawkes Bay Gravels Le Sol 2007 This Hawke’s Bay winery Lovely now, this Hawke’srich and savoury, with the Syrah 2007 Craggy Range views this as has switched its sauvignon Bay beauty was hand-structure to mature well. Boldly coloured Gimblett its greatest syrah yet. Grown blanc focus from Hawke’s picked at Ngatarawa andGenerous cherry, plum and Gravels, Hawke’s Bay red, in the Gimblett Gravels and Bay to Marlborough - with stop-fermented withspice flavours, with hints of beautifully scented, with matured for 20 months in immediate success. Weighty, 10% alc. and 279g/litre ofherbs and dark chocolate, vibrant blackcurrant, plum French oak barriques, it is with punchy gooseberry/lime residual sugar. A golden,and a firm backbone of and pepper flavours, showing purple/black, with cassis, spice flavours, lovely vigour and strongly botrytised styletannin. Highly enjoyable, intense varietal character and and black pepper aromas and intensity, racy acidity and a with oily texture and fresh,but still developing. Well- excellent depth. Supple, with concentrated, ripe, spicy, nutty long, dry finish. $20 concentrated peach, apricotpriced at $37. (A, UK, US) fresh acidity and a lingering flavours, showing superb and honey flavours. $39.95Pegasus Bay finish. $64.90 (UK) density, elegance and length. Pisa Range EstatePrima Donna Waipara Open 2012+. $89.95 Central Otago BlackValley Pinot Noir 2006 Sacred Hill Helmsman Craggy Range Gimblett Poplar Pinot Noir 2007Invitingly scented Waipara Hawkes Bay Cabernet Gravels Les Beaux Dense, structured stylered, based on the Merlot 2007 Cailloux 2007 with full colour, substantialcompany’s oldest vines and Powerful Hawke’s Bay Majestic, notably refined body (14.5% alc.) andbarrel-aged for 18 months. blend of cabernet sauvignon Gimblett Gravels chardonnay impressive concentrationDeep and youthful in (53%), merlot (42%) and with a beautifully fragrant, of ripe cherry, plum andcolour, with concentrated, cabernet franc (5%), hand- complex, mealy bouquet. spice flavours, complexripe, cherry/plum flavours, harvested and French Weighty (14.5% alc.), with and savoury. Still fresh andshowing great delicacy and oak-matured for 18 months. deep grapefruit and stone-fruit vibrant, with good cellaringharmony, gentle tannins and Dark, youthful colour, with flavours, mealy, and nutty potential. $48 (A, UK, US)a rich, seductively smooth blackcurrant, plum and spice notes adding complexity.finish. $84 (A, UK, US) flavours and fine-grained Finely poised, with great Forrest The Valleys Craggy Range Te Muna tannins. Obvious long-term texture and harmony. Still Awatere Marlborough Aroha 2007 potential. $64.90 (UK) unfolding. $59.95 Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Powerful, lush, finely Top-flight debut, enticingly textured red made from the scented, with gooseberry, company’s best pinot noir, lime and tomato stalk aromas. grown at Te Muna. Deeply Full-bodied and smooth, coloured, it is very refined, it shows excellent purity, concentrated and supple, delicacy and depth, with with gentle acidity and cherry, impressive weight and lovely plum and slight herb flavours. texture and intensity. $22 Generous, youthful and should be long-lived. $79.95148 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010

MICHAEL COOPER’S BEST OF 2009 RELEASES new zealandClearview Reserve Craggy Range Craggy Range Main Divide TeHau Blackenbrook NelsonCabernet Franc 2007 Gimblett Gravels Te Kahu 2007 Selection Waipara Pinot Gris 2008Bold Hawke’s Bay red, Chardonnay 2008 Powerful but very Valley Pinot Noir 2007 Powerful style (15% alc),deeply coloured, fresh Classic Hawke’s Bay style, approachable Gimblett Already delicious, but still based on estate-grownand vibrantly fruity, with generous, ripe and rounded, Gravels blend, merlot-centred unfolding, a generous, grapes, hand-picked at overconcentrated blackcurrant, with a fragrant, slightly (55%). Dark and fragrant, full-coloured red with 25 brix. Floral and very ripelyplum and spice flavours. toasty and mealy bouquet. with a generous, silky-smooth concentrated, ripe cherry scented, with concentratedFirmly structured, savoury Mouthfilling, with peachy, palate showing excellent and plum flavours, finely peach, pear and spice flavoursand complex, with long-term biscuity flavours, a hint of concentration of cassis, plum integrated oak, gentle in a distinctly late harvest stylecellaring potential. $40 (A, UK) butterscotch, good complexity and spice flavours and supple, tannins and a nutty, savoury with apple strudel and honeyWeeping Sands and a rich finish. Already ripe tannins. Drink now or complexity. From Pegasus notes. $27 (A)Waiheke Island delicious, it’s also a cellaring cellar. $29.95 Bay. $32.95 Chard FarmMontepulciano 2008 proposition. $29.95 (A) Pegasus Bay Selaks The Favourite Central OtagoStill a baby, this single- Domain Road Central Riesling 2008 Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gewurztraminer 2007vineyard wine from Obsidian Otago Pinot Noir 2007 Mouthfilling, distinctly Gris 2008 Richly scented, thisis densely coloured, Powerful Bannockburn medium style from Waipara, Alsace style with substantial delicious wine was blendedpowerful and rich, with red, deeply coloured and with a slightly honeyed body and deep, ripe, from estate-grown Gibbstondeep, ripe flavours of plums highly fragrant. Sturdy and bouquet, reflecting some intensely varietal flavours grapes, supplementedand spices. Concentrated sweet-fruited, with excellent noble rot influence. Ripe of peaches, lychees and by fruit from Cromwell. Aand complex, with finely concentration of cherry and citrus, passionfruit and slight spices. Partly barrel-aged, softly mouthfilling wineintegrated oak and a firm spice flavours, still very apricot flavours, slightly sweet with finely balanced acidity with gentle acidity and ripefoundation of tannin. Should fresh, vibrant and youthful, and tangy, powerful on the and impressive harmony, flavours of citrus fruits,be at its best 2011+. $34.40 and gentle tannins. Drink palate. Best drinking 2010+. texture, complexity and lychees and spices, showing 2010 onwards. $35 $27.95 (A, UK, US) richness. $20.99 excellent varietal definition,½ Soma Nelson delicacy and depth. $25.95 Amisfield Central Otago Sileni The Cape Riesling 2007 Clos de Ste Anne TheCraggy Range C3 Pinot Gris 2008 Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Strikingly harmonious wine Crucible Syrah 2007Kidnappers Vineyard Youthful, partly barrel- Blanc 2008 “made in the Alsace style of Youthful, single-vineyardHawke’s Bay fermented style. Richly Fleshy and soft, with natural stabilisation over time, Gisborne red, deeplyChardonnay 2008 scented, with mouthfilling generous, tropical fruit approximately one year, until coloured, with substantialMade using “the traditional body and ripe flavours of flavours. A very non- bottling.” Light lemon/green, body and rich, ripe,techniques of Chablis”, this is citrus fruits, lychees and herbaceous style, with lovely it is lemon-scented, with intensely varietal flavoursa very gently oaked style, spices, showing good texture and richness. Weighty gently sweet grapefruit and of blackcurrants and spices.but still full of interest. complexity. Fresh, crisp and and instantly appealing, it’s a lime flavours that show lovely Slightly earthy and roastedWeighty and smooth, with vibrantly fruity, with a long top example of the regional purity, poise and length. Great notes add complexity, withfresh, ripe, citrusy, appley finish. $35 (A, UK, US) style. $14.99 (A) value at $17. a firm backbone of tannin.flavours, slightly leesy Millton Gisborne Wild Rock Angel’s Dust Certified organic. $53.50and nutty. Subtle style of Chardonnay Opou Sileni The Triangle Reserve Syrah 2007 Coney Piccolochardonnay, refined and Vineyard 2007 Hawke’s Bay Instantly attractive Hawke’s Martinboroughpersistent. $24.95 (A, UK, US) A top vintage, this organically Merlot 2007 Bay red with deep, youthful Pinot Gris 2008Selaks The Favourite certified wine is rich, dry and Fragrant, spicy bouquet colour and a scented, Excellent debut. Fleshy,Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2007 complex, with peachy, nutty, with a hint of sweet oak. intensely varietal, very mouthfilling and rich, it’s aEnticingly fragrant bouquet, slightly buttery flavours and a Full-coloured and flowing, ripe and peppery bouquet. dryish, well-rounded andsavoury and complex. hint of butterscotch. Refined with blackcurrant, plum Classy and rich, with deep strongly varietal wine withMouthfilling, with ripe and slightly minerally, it’s a and spice flavours, gentle blackcurrant, plum and black concentrated, ripe lychee,blackcurrant, plum and black fine-value wine, drinking well tannins and a hint of coffee. pepper flavours, a hint of dark pear and spice flavours,pepper flavours, concentrated now. $26.50 Sturdy, with excellent depth chocolate, gentle tannins and hints of apricots, and aand gently oaked. Finely Pegasus Bay and complexity. Drink now lovely texture. $29.95 slightly oily texture. Drinktextured, spicy and long. Pinot Noir 2007 onwards. $34.95 (A) Blackenbrook Nelson now onwards. $22Great value at $20.99. Youthful Waipara, North Gewurztraminer 2008 Margrain BotrytisAuntsfield Long Cow Canterbury red with deep, Exotically perfumed, Alsace Selection SauvignonMarlborough Sauvignon bright colour. Deliciously rich, style, hand-picked very ripe Blanc 2008 (375ml)Blanc 2008 sweet-fruited, complex and and still very youthful, with Golden, with a powerfulUnusually complex style, 20% supple, with cherry, spice substantial body (14.5% alc) botrytis influence andmatured in seasoned French and herb flavours, fresh and a sliver of sweetness. impressive depth. Weightyoak barriques. Mouthfilling, acidity and an enticingly Fresh pear and spice (but only 10% alc), withripe and concentrated, scented bouquet. $46.95 aromas, with lovely richness, a lovely interplay of rich,with a scented bouquet delicacy and harmony on the apricot-like fruit, sweetnessand fleshy, sweet-fruited, palate. $27 (A) and appetising acidity. Liquidwell-rounded palate, showing honey. $28excellent flavour depth andtexture. $22 (A, UK, US) Annual 2010 W I N E S TAT E 149

MICHAEL COOPER’S BEST OF 2009 RELEASES new zealandMartinborough Villa Maria Single Terrace Edge Waipara Allan Scott Late Harvest Mondillo Central OtagoVineyard Sauvignon Vineyard Ihumatao Valley Pinot Gris 2008 Marlborough Sauvignon Pinot Noir 2008Blanc 2008 Gewurztraminer 2008 Richer, more complex style Blanc 2008 (375ml) Graceful, silky, single-Sweet-fruited, with lovely Estate-grown at Mangere in than most New Zealand Rich, complex, barrel- vineyard red, grown atdelicacy and depth of tropical- south Auckland, a deliciously pinot gris, fermented with fermented style, pale gold, Bendigo. Rich and supple,fruit flavours. Partly barrel- rich and well-rounded wine indigenous yeasts in aged with a fragrant, honeyed with sweet-fruit delights,fermented style, impressively with mouthfilling body, ripe barrels. Fragrant, citrusy, bouquet. Mouthfilling excellent depth of cherry/ripe, concentrated and lychee, spice and slight slightly spicy bouquet. (although only 9% alc.), with plum flavours and well-well-rounded. Already ginger flavours, softly Mouthfilling body, with strong an oily texture and lovely integrated oak. Finelydelicious. $26 textured and complex, and a stone-fruit and spice flavours, depth and freshness of very crafted and already drinkingMartinborough slightly sweet, lasting finish. a hint of honey, gentle ripe, tropical fruit flavours, well. $40 (US)Vineyard Te Tera Pinot Drink now or cellar. $30 sweetness, excellent texture enriched by noble rot. $29 Pegasus BayNoir 2007 Voss Martinborough and depth. Great value at $19. Clearview Reserve Finale Noble SemillonA great buy, hand-picked Pinot Noir 2007 Chardonnay 2008 2007 (375ml)on the Martinborough Deep ruby, very fresh Waipara Hills Southern Highly fragrant, rich and Deliciously rich, honey-sweetTerrace and French oak- and fragrant, with rich, Cross Selection Central vibrantly fruity wine, grown at wine, barrel-fermented andmatured for 10 months. vibrant, well-ripened cherry, Otago Pinot Noir 2008 Te Awanga, on the Hawke’s oak-aged for two years. LightDeep and youthful in colour, plum and spice flavours. Rich, flowing Bendigo red, Bay coast, and fermented in gold, with a full-bloomed,mouthfilling and supple, with Deliciously complex, savoury hand-picked and French French oak barrels. Weighty, honeyed bouquet, revealinga strong surge of plum and and smooth-flowing, with oak-matured. Sweet-fruited, with concentrated, a strong noble rot influence.spice flavours. Generous, the potential to mature well. slightly earthy and savoury, well-ripened, stone-fruit Concentrated, ripe,sweet-fruited wine, already $39.95 (A, UK, US) with impressive depth of flavours, well seasoned with tropical fruit and honeydrinking well. $32 Voss cherryish, plummy flavour and toasty oak, and a fresh, dry flavours, and mouth-wateringMatariki Martinborough Reserve good complexity. Best opened finish. Best drinking mid- acidity. $36.95 (A)Hawke’s Bay Reserve Chardonnay 2007 mid-2010+. $36.90 (A, UK) 2010+. $35 (A, UK, US) Pegasus Bay SauvignonChardonnay 2006 Richly fragrant Wild Earth Central Peregrine Central Semillon 2008Barrel-fermented, Hawke’s Martinborough wine, hand- Otago Pinot Gris 2008 Otago Pinot Noir 2007 Youthful, slightly minerallyBay wine, grown in the picked from mature vines Single-vineyard, Highly seductive style, richly and nutty, Waipara-grownGimblett Gravels, with a (15-19 years old) and barrel- Bannockburn wine, partly coloured and beautifully blend, fermented withfragrant, citrusy, biscuity fermented. Light yellow, with barrel-fermented. Very fresh scented. Intensely varietal, indigenous yeasts andbouquet. Mouthfilling, concentrated, ripe grapefruit and pure, in a full-bodied with strong, ripe flavours lees-aged for nine monthsslightly creamy style, very and peach flavours, a subtle style with penetrating, of cherries, plums, herbs in a mix of stainless steelrefined, with a core of ripe, seasoning of oak and a vibrant, slightly sweet and spices, good complexity tanks, large oak vats and oldgrapefruit-like flavours, hints fresh, finely balanced, slightly pear and spice flavours, and a silky-smooth finish. barriques. Ripe flavours ofof butterscotch and toasty minerally finish. Drink now or showing lovely balance and $39 (A, UK, US) citrus fruits, gooseberriesoak, and excellent richness cellar. $27.95 (A) immediacy. $27 (A) Craggy Range Gimblett and lime and appetisingand elegance. $36 (A, UK) Staete Landt Wild Earth Central Gravels Sophia 2007 acidity. $27.95 (A, UK, US)Pegasus Bay Marlborough Otago Riesling 2008 Likely to be long-lived, thisMaestro 2005 Pinot Gris 2008 Finely poised Bannockburn Gimblett Gravels merlot- River Farm Saint MaurPowerful, dark Waipara Full-bodied, dry style, wine, fermented in “a based blend was matured Marlborough Sauvignonblend of merlot (85%) and fermented in old French single, small tank”. Rich for 18 months in French Blanc 2008malbec, matured for two puncheons and lees-aged and tightly structured, with oak barriques. The colour Powerful, rich and complexyears in barriques, followed for nine months. Full of intensely varietal and ripe, is dark and youthful; the style, fermented withby nine months in old, large personality, with deep stone- lemon and peach flavours, flavours concentrated, with indigenous yeasts in olderoak vats. Sturdy and highly fruit and spice flavours, sweet- good acid spine and a blackcurrant, plum and spice French oak barriques and oak-complex, with concentrated fruit delights, complexity from slightly sweet, minerally, characters, and fine-grained aged for 10 months. Freshlyblackcurrant, herb, spice and the restrained oak influence lingering finish. $27 (A, UK) tannins. Sweet-fruited and scented, with mouthfillingnut flavours that build well and a deliciously soft, rich Blackenbrook Vineyard supple. $49.95 body, ripe, tropical fruitacross the palate to a long, finish. $28 (A, UK, US) Reserve Nelson Glasnevin flavours, a gentle seasoning ofrounded finish. $44.95 (A) Staete Landt Gewurztraminer 2008 Pinot Gris 2008 oak, and a sliver of sweetnessTrinity Hill Marlborough Sauvignon Beautifully perfumed, softly Rich, dry style from Waipara, balanced by lively acidity. $29The Gimblett 2006 Blanc 2008 mouthfilling wine (14.8% in north Canterbury,Merlot-predominant (57 %) Powerful wine, delicious alc.), harvested at 25.6 brix. fermented with indigenousblend, grown in the Gimblett now, with excellent depth of Intensely varietal, with very yeasts and matured forGravels, Hawke’s Bay. Bold, tropical, sweet-fruit flavours. ripe peach, lychee and spice nine months in French oakyouthful colour, with a spicy, Full-bodied and dry, with a flavours, showing lovely barriques. Pale yellow/green,ripe, sweetly oaked bouquet. faint suggestion of oak (10% depth and delicacy, and a with complex peachy, spicyBig-bodied, rich and very of the blend was fermented slightly sweet, well-rounded flavours an oily texture, andsmooth, in an up-front style in old barrels) and impressive finish. $31 a dry, well-rounded finish.with strong blackcurrant, plum weight, texture and richness. (From Fiddler’s Green) $28and spice flavours, and gentle $23.95 (A, UK, US)tannins. $32 (A, UK, US)150 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2010