Winestate Magazine Annual 2012

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 new releases Kirrihill shiraz 2008 Black Puma Lloyd Brothers Tullymore Vineyard Pyrenees Shiraz Hand Picked Clare Valley Shiraz Yelland & Papps 2008 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale 2009 HHHH Divine Barossa Big, lively, earthy nose Shiraz 2008 HHHH Stewed, sweet, stone- Valley Shiraz laced with chocolate, Dark, toasty, oak-driven fruit bouquet and nicely 2008 HHHH1/2 aniseed and plums nose and sweet, retained varietal fruit Interesting dark, and showing a hint of fleshy palate with flavours - still fresh, brooding, inky aromas mint. Big, rich palate good concentration with good depth with Christmas cake- brimming over with of creamy stone-fruit and length of oak in like fruit notes. Lovely long, lingering, sweet flavours and nice tannin support. $19.99 oak background on the fruit flavours. $80 profile. 3-5 $22 Truffle Hill palate with great depth Pemberton Shiraz of ripe, sweet fruit McLaren Vale Outlaw Wines 2009 HHHH flavours. $65 III Associates 5 Star Barossa Blueberry-like bouquet Wyndham Giant Squid Ink Valley Shiraz with a smoky edge Estate George McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHHH and a dash of white Wyndham Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Powerful, chocolaty pepper. Excellent depth 2008 HHHH1/2 Very enjoyable wine with nose with a lovely of stone-fruit flavours Lots of toasty oak on rich mocha nose lifted by combination of earthy, merged with classy the nose sitting on fruity notes. The palate tarry and juicy plum oak. 3-5 $19.99 top of floral-like fruit. offers a soft, warm aromas and a palate Lovely oak on the “hug” of prunes, jam, full of flavour with aSimpatico Sunrise palate - a tad assertive coffee and oak. “Take it long, warm finish. $25 Henry’s DriveBlock Barossa for now - with lush, skiing,” suggested one Gibson The Padthaway ShirazShiraz 2009 HHHH soft fruit flavours and judge. $50 Dirtman Barossa 2008 HHHHNicely balanced, tannins. $21.59 Shiraz 2008 HHHH Buttery, ripe plum andmedium-bodied wine Massive wine with sweet oak aromaswith ripe plum fruit great potential to age with a lovely, fresh,with hints of curry leaf- very well. Big black complexity of flavours,like characters, pepper olive/blackcurrant-like powerful but notand spice and an oaky fruit characters and assertive tannins andfinish. $35 earthy/tarry elements. warming finish. $30 5+ $24.50 CD Adelaide Cellar Door ADELAIDE CELLAR DOOR WINE TASTING ROOM Hong Kong’s leading boutique wine & yachting events company. 801 8/F Tai Yau Building 181 Johnston Road Wines from Around the World | Fantastic Customer Service Experts in Corporate & Private Events Wanchai, Hong Kong Available for private hire Fully equipped with glasses, fridges, spittoons Wine presenter available on request ※ Customised Wine Functions Cuosnttoadcat y! ※ Corporate Networking Evenings ※ Food & Wine Matching Evenings ※ Winemaker Talks ※ Sunset Wine Cruise ※ Blind Tasting Challenges ※ Personalised Wine Gifts ※ Team Building Evenings ※ Online Store & Shop ※ Premium Wines ※ Wine Club www.adelaidecellardoor.com.hk [email protected] +852 2526 0151 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 101

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 new releasesMaxwell Ellen Gumpara Taltarni Heathcote Rowley EstateStreet McLaren Vale Reserve Barossa Shiraz 2007 HHHH Tango Keilor ShirazShiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Sombre, serious, 2004 HHHHChocolaty bouquet Reserved nose, some brooding number - “Like Developed earthy/with a touch of fruit dark fruit and mealy a storm approaching,” leathery wine. Nicecake-like characters. oak aromas. Intensely said one judge. Has barnyardy characters onAssertive, tannic palate flavoured, fruit-driven blueberry-like fruit the nose and soft redbrimming over with palate that’s soft, rich characters and tobacco fruit palate supportedanise, licorice and and warm. One for the oak. 5+ $39.99 by soft tannins andprune flavours. $32 cellar. $32.50 cedary oak. $22 shiraz Tahbilk ESP ShirazGisa Ellipse God’s Hill 2006 & older 2006 HHHHBarossa Shiraz Menzel Barossa Lovely complexity of2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Rowley Estate well-aged plum fruitVery powerful shiraz Huge, flavoursome style Barbara with nutty oak andwith intense, cool- with well-integrated ripe Keilor Shiraz powerful tannins. Veryclimate-like, spicy, plum and oak aromas 2002 HHHH1/2 good length. Still a lotgreen fruit characters which are echoed on Great bouquet of more life left in it yet.and some excellent the lovely long, creamy aged dark fruits -oak to match. palate. 3-5 $43 still showing some 5+ $69.95A keeper. 5+ $35 freshness. Amazing Sanguine Estate old sweet, fruit cake sweet whiteGumpara Victor’s D’Orsa Heathcote Karanto 7A flavours with balancing & fortified Reschke LateOld Vine Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHH Langhorne Creek tannin/acid spine. Picked BotrytisShiraz 2008 HHHH Fruit-driven shiraz with Shiraz 2007 HHHHH Needs decanting. Yarran Wines Sauvignon BlancDark, briary fruit a pleasant Cherry Ripe Fabulous wine with Holding up well. $26 Leopardwood 2010 (375ml) HHHHnose with aromas nose and intensely intense raspberry aromas Lengs & Cooter Reserve Botrytis Graves style of winereminiscent of scorched flavoured blackberry fruit layered with dark plum Old Vines Clare Chenin Blanc 2009 with lovely clean botrytis/earth characters. Lovely palate with a warming fruit. Beautifully balanced Valley Shiraz (375ml) HHHHH dried apricot bouquetfull-bodied, oaky palate alcoholic end. $59.95 2006 HHHH1/2 Glorious golden wine and long, lusciously richwith nice range of Dense, generous with solid toffee/lychee sweet palate. Crowdflavours. $25 shiraz 2007 palate with intense licorice and ripe plum botrytis bouquet and pleaser. $25 cool-climate varietal fruit, aromas and a full, rich an excellent depth of Dowie DooleGlendalough Estate well-handled, creamy and flavoursome palate sweet luscious fruit McLaren Vale CaneGovernor’s Pleasure oak and a lovely lingering tasting of licorice with with powerful acidity Cut Viognier 2010Clare Valley Shiraz finish. 5+ $22 tarry/ earthy characters. ensuring a long life (375ml) HHHH2008 HHHH Glendalough Estate Great length and ahead. $18 Complex, toasty, citrusRestrained but Clare Valley Shiraz balance. $28 Ballast Stone Old marmalade-like nose,concentrated ripe 2007 HHHHH Hardys HRB Shiraz Botham Merrill Tawny NV HHHHH and powerful palatecherry aromas and Delightful, complex 2007 HHHH1/2 Willis McLaren Vale Lovely rich rancio/ loaded with luscious,beautifully constructed, wine offering excellent Seamless integration of Shiraz 2006 HHHH spicy toffee aromas ripe flavours in theslightly warm, palate cellaring potential. Silky, spicy fruit and malty oak Earthy fruit well and a lengthy palate tropical spectrum. $25with lovely varietal fruit seamless integration of aromas with leathery integrated with vanillin with excellent depth of Leconfieldexpression. $22 blueberry fruit, licorice age developing. oak. Well-balanced, beautifully balanced, Coonawarra Noble sweetness and lovely Nicely aged, fleshy soft, red fruit palate still well-integrated, aged Riesling 2011 cashew nut oak with rich palate with vibrant nicely fresh, with lovely rancio fruit matched by (375ml) HHHHQuarisa Treasures tannins. 5+ $22 forest fruit flavours and velvety tannins. $27.50 a good concentration Luscious honeyedLanghorne Creek quality oak. $39.99 Rowley Estate of acidity. $30 apricot and driedShiraz 2008 HHHH Tango Keilor Shiraz Bunnamagoo pear aromas, andBright, lifted oak/plum Turner’s Crossing 2005 HHHH Estate Kids Earth excellent richness andaromas with ginger The Cut Shiraz Smells earthy - like a Fund Autumn complexity to the big,spice elements. Soft 2007 HHHH1/2 forest floor - with a hint Semillon 2010 botrytis palate. Niceand fleshy in the Big, solid and well- of rhubarb. Nice flavour (375ml) HHHH1/2 drying finish. $19.99mouth, with an intense aged shiraz with concentration with lots Deep-golden winedry/sour-like flavour lovely integration of of earthy/mushroom with luscious, apricot-profile. $14.99 stewed plums, dark characters and svelte like nose layered with chocolate and leathery tannins. $20 honeyed characters. characters. Fleshy in Balanced sweetness STAR RATINGS  the mouth, with great and acid on the depth and length of flavoursome, tinnedThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of flavours. 3-5 $85 peach palate. Niceexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. phenolics. $17.95All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Eldertonprofessionals and are compared in peer Command Singleclasses by three judges. Vineyard BarossaCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Shiraz 2007 HHHHa major mail-order business. Elegant shiraz with rich,CD Cellar door price. chocolaty sweetness onCDO Cellar door only. the nose and softnessSO Sold out. in the mouth, with$N/A Price not available at time of printing. nice depth of sweet fruit flavours and good Contact information pg 174. tannins. 5+ $85 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).102 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

agónez Aramon Aspiran Aubun Băbească Neagră Baga Barbarossa Barbera Bastardo Trousseau Black Muscat Blatina Blauburgauer Portugieser Kékoportó Portugais Blaufränkisch Lemberger Kékfrankos Gamé Bobal Bogazkere Bonarda Bondola Bovale Sarrgonja Crna Brachetto or Braquet Bual Boal Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Severny Caladoc Calitor Canaiolo Carignrignane Cariñena Carignano Mazuelo Carménère Carnelian Castelão Periquita Castiglione Cesanese Cesar Charbono Cienna Ciliegionsaut Cinsault Ottavianello Colorino Complexa Corvina Corvinone Counoise Croatina Darkenuša Dobričić Dolcetto Domina Dornfeldunkelfelder Duras Durif Petite Sirah Espadeiro Fer Fetească Neagră Frappato Freisa Frühroter Veltliner Fumin Gaglioppo Gamay Gam ir Garnatxa Grenache Garnacha Cannonau Garrut Graciano Moristel Greco Nero Grignolino Gropello Grolleau Groslot HelfensteinThe Wine Industry’s Leading Online Job Siteeroldrebe Hondarrabi Beltza Jurancon noir Kadarka Kalecik Karasi Kotsifali Kratosija Lagrein 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Manseng Grüner Veltliner Guardavalle Guarnaccia Bianca Gutenborn Incrocio Manzomore industry positionsárslevelű Hondarribi Zuri Humagne Huxelrebe Weisser Gutedel Courtillier Musquézolia Irsai Oliver Izsáki Sarfehér Jacquère Jaen blanca Jampal Juhfark Keknyelu Kerner Knipperle Kleauschling Krstač Kujundžuša Ladikino Len de l’El Loureira Macabeo Macabeu Alcañón Viura Madelei Mantonico Bianco PeMORE OFTEN… and listed withngevine Malagousia Malvar Malvasia, includes several sub-varieties Malvoisieanseng Izkiriota Ttipi Gros Manseng Izkiriota Handi Manteudo Maria Gomes Fernão Pires Marsanne Mauz Molette Morio-MuskDailyWineNewselon de Bourgogne Muscadet de Bourgogne Merseguera Escanyavella Misketoschofilero Mtsvane Müller-Thurgau Rivaner Muscadelle Muscadet de Bourgogne Melon de Bourgoguscat Moscato Muscat of Alexandria Moscatell Moscatel de Málaga, de Setúbal Muscat Blanc 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AUSTRALIA AWARDED AT ASIA’S LARGEST WINE EVENTMore than fifty wineries from Australia showcasedtheir brands in the fourth annual HKTDC HongKong International Wine & Spirits Fair (HKIWSF),now Asia’s biggest wine show. Add to thisthe Australian brands represented by theirdistributors and agents, this tallied up to 80wineries from Australia alone. New Zealand alsohad a significant presence, with the New Zealandpavilion hosting ten wineries from the North andSouth Islands.Australia and New Zealand were joined by otherNew World Wine producing countries includingthe USA, Canada, Chile and Argentina, whileItaly, was this year’s wine fair Partner Country,and featured more than 200 exhibitors. In total930 exhibitors from 37 countries and region tookpart in this event.International Event CATHAY PACIFIC HONG KONG Eight gold medals were won by Australia, including INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRIT Australian Pavilion exhibitor, Fogarty Wine Groups,More than 19,000 buyers from around the world COMPETITION (HKIWSC) with its Deep Woods Block 7 Shiraz 2009.participated in the 2011 Hong Kong InternationalWine & Spirits Fair. Run in partnership with the London-based Hong Kong’s interest in wine is evident, with International Wine & Spirit Competition, the imports of wine up 57 per cent, year-on-year, to‘This year, the fair registered record numbers HKIWSC was created specifically for the Asian US$940 million, over the first nine months of 2011.for both exhibitors and buyers,’ said Hong Kong market by those who know and are intimatelyTrade Development Council (HKTDC) Deputy involved in the region. 2012 HONG KONG INTERNATIONALExecutive Director Benjamin Chau. “After only WINE AND SPIRITS FAIRfour years, the fair has become the largest It is the first Asian wine competition in the world,international wine event in Asia, playing an supported by key factors such as the Chinese food Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair willimportant role in establishing Hong Kong as the and wine pairing awards. be held next year from 8-10 November, anyoneregion’s wine-trading hub. interested in participating should contact HKTDC The competition results offer the Asian wine Sydney Office.According to Austrade ‘The Hong Kong consumer the ultimate guide to purchasing wineInternational Wine and Spirits Fair (HKIWSF) is one that is sensitive to the Asian palate and cultural Fair Website www.hktdc.com/hkwinefairof the key events for Australian wine exporters and consumption patterns.service providers to attend and use as a platformto introduce new wines and promote their existingbrands to buyers in Asia’.SPECIAL EVENTS Media Enquiries For media enquiries, please contact:A series of seminars and tasting events were Ms. Toni Wade, Marketing Managerheld during HKIWSF, including the Wine Industry Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC)Conference, Asia Top Sommelier Summit, and Phone: 61 2 9261 8911the third Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Email: [email protected] & Spirit Competition. Open to spirits for thefirst time, the competition received over 1,700applications. Guest judge was Alberto Antonini, anItalian oenologist and wine consultant.

8-10 November 2012 · Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreAbout the HKTDCA statutory body established in 1966, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) is the international marketing arm for Hong Kong-basedtraders, manufacturers and service providers. With more than 40 global offices, including 11 on the Chinese mainland, the HKTDC promotes HongKong as a platform for doing business with China and throughout Asia. The HKTDC also organises trade fairs and business missions to connectcompanies with opportunities in Hong Kong and on the mainland, while providing information via trade publications, research reports and online.For more information, please visit www.hktdc.com.

BEST BUYSFox Gordon Mojo Fizz Adelaide Queen Adelaide Queen Adelaide Queen Adelaide Queen AdelaidePrincess Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Sparkling Brut NV South Eastern South Eastern South EasternHills Fiano 2010 Pinot Noir Brut Zesty citrus nose and Australia Pinot Australia Sauvignon AustraliaLifted white peach Cuvee NV nice yeasty/green apple Grigio 2010 Blanc 2010 Riesling 2010bouquet with nice Developed aged stewed palate with good level Pears and citrus on A rich wine with a Nose showing toastynuttiness. Warm oily fruit bouquet with of acidity. $7.99 the nose and a sweet slightly toasty citrus/ development as doesfruit-driven palate - lots lemon skin flavours flavoursome palate. pineapple bouquet the palate with a goodof tropicals with floral and exhibiting layers of Crowd pleaser. $7.99 and interesting palate; acid backbone. $7.99flashes. Good example complexity. $19.95 quite exotic with oaky-of the varietal. $19.95 like notes. A different style. $7.99best buys THE 2011 BEST OF TOP 40 TO QUALIFY BEST BUYS LISTING20less than 1 Wines must have first been recommended is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines in Winestate Magazine style or new release$ may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal Best Buys group. Others will sell out, or be replaced by higher- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - orfrom 2011 rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines currently available, from big-name brands and the 2 Wines from designated regional tastings higher volume ‘second labels’ from the smaller producers, as are eligible provided they are widely available. tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40 Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that would 3 All wines must be currently available otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores. HOW IT WORKS 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible. In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated wines at specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by panels of expert judges.106 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

UNDER $20High Plains King Anvers Brabo Barking Owl Traditions Stuart Wines White Rock BareValley Sauvignon South Australia Sauvignon Blanc McLaren Vale Box Yarra Valley McLaren ValeBlanc 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010 Sea Breeze White Chardonnay 2009 Chardonnay 2010Promising nose; Semillon 2011 Very herbal aromas NV HHHH Easy-drinking style Creme caramel-likesome green peas Delicate floral aromas - lovely and fresh - Attractive golden- with loads of flavour. nose and sour grippyand passionfruit. Nice and nicely textured echoed on the long hued nicely balanced Nutty nose and melon/ palate with honeygooseberry/passionfruit candied tropical palate. well-structured and very sweet white wine with citrus palate. $19.95 and apricot flavoursflavours with a nice level Very fresh. $15 lively palate. $17.95 loads of toasty aged emerging. $17.95of crunchy acidity. $16 characters adding plenty of character. $13.95Hoggies Hoggies EstatE EstatEThe ‘Hoggies’ label is part of the Kopparossa wines created by Gavin Hogg Cabernet Sauvignonwho has been in the game since 1973 and from 1980 - 1998 was one of themost senior winemakers of the Mildara Blass empire. He was responsible Concentrated blackberry and ripe plums with toastyfor making Jamiesons Run, with which he won a Jimmy Watson trophy and aromas. Intense blackberry and cassis fruit with a hintproduced scores of gold medals and more than 20 trophies for his wines, of chocolate and mint, the soft oak tannins and mouthmainly from the famous Coonawarra red dirt. filling fruit permeates through to the back palate and lingers longingly. For further information email: [email protected] or mobile: +61 418 854 102 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 107

BEST BUYSOakover Wines Oakover Wines Luna Rosa Patrick of Patrick of Patrick ofSwan Valley Classic Swan Valley Central Ranges Coonawarra Mother Coonawarra Mother Coonawarra MotherWhite 2010 Rosé 2010 Rosado 2010 of Pearl Chardonnay of Pearl Sauvignon of Pearl CabernetSolid wine that smells More dry red in character Lovely nose smelling Pinot NV Blanc 2010 Merlot 2009of lychees and feijoa with strawberries and like crushed raspberries Nice champagne yeast Steely, almost riesling- Sweet and chocolatyand has nice palate plums on the nose and leading to a supple characters on the toasty like style with its bath nose with a floral lifttexture and weight. $15 a firm red plum/berry textured savoury/herbal nose, some toasty salts, lemons and limes and lots of sweet plum palate. $15 palate. Very European complexity on a palate and crisp acidity to fruit flavours with good style. $14.99 with excellent structure balance the touch of oak. $19 and good depth of residual sugar. $18.99 yeasty flavours with balancing acidity. $19 SIZE REALLY 5 York Street, Sydney, NSW, Australia DOES MATTER Telephone: (61-2) 9210-5000 Toll Free: 1800 337 427 At The York by Swiss-Belhotel we know that size really matters. That is why we offer the E-mail: [email protected] most spacious serviced residences in Sydney GDS Chain Code: WV with studio, one and two bedroom suites sized from 58-160 square metres. All suites include www.theyorkapartments.com.au daily service, full kitchen, lounge/dining room www.swiss-belhotel.com area, open air balconies, wireless internet capability, IP TV and Video on Demand. Whether it is for business or leisure, you will find it at The York by Swiss-Belhotel - Sydney’s most spacious serviced residences. MENTION THIS AD TO RECEIVE COMPLIMENTARY INTERNET WHEN YOU BOOK108 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

UNDER $20Gardners Ground Burk Salter South Fox Gordon By Cumulus Wines Reschke Bull Anvers BraboOrganic Canowindra Australia Merlot George Barossa Rolling Central Trader Coonawarra South AustraliaMerlot 2008 Cabernet 2009 Valley Cabernet Ranges Cabernet Cabernet Cabernet SauvignonLoads of fruit all the way Smells of blackberry Tempranillo 2009 Merlot 2008 Merlot 2006 Shiraz 2010from beginning to end jam and sour cherries; Subtle aromas of Good style with spicy/ Big jammy aromas and Intense purplewith oak evident but tastes of dark berries chocolate licorice earthy bouquet showing rich savoury flavours colour with youthfulwell-integrated creating and vanillin oak with and spices. Very a hint of licorice and with slightly grippy herbaceous/cassisa pleasing effect. Good subtle tannins. $16 flavoursome ripe some berry fruits. Big tannins. Holding up varietal fruit nose andnow - will get even jammy fruit palate with solid cranberry-like palate well. $18 young, soft palatebetter. 5+ $19.99 balancing oak. $19.95 that has balance weight offering a mouthful of and length. Drinking well rich oak with blackberries now. $17.99 underneath. $15 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 109

BEST BUYSSylvan Springs Amphora Wines Barking Owl Rouge Homme Taylor Ferguson Mount AlexanderBell Rd McLaren Cartel Coonawarra Western Australia Limestone Premium Selection Shiraz 2009Vale Cabernet Cabernet Shiraz Viognier 2009 Coast Shiraz Langhorne Creek Inviting, oaky noseSauvignon 2009 Sauvignon 2009 Beautiful wine - great Cabernet 2009 Shiraz 2008 with touch of baconSoftly luscious wine Floral/blackberry colour and lovely rich Big oaky style with Peppery nose with hints overtones, and ripe,with sweet fruit and aromas with a touch ripe sweet blackberry some green edges on of lavender and thyme. fleshy palate withobvious bacony oak. of mint. Herbal palate aromas with a spicy the fresh lively varietal Nicely retained varietal lingering blackberryWell made and very shows good tannin edge. Palate offers a big fruit. $12.99 fruit flavours. $14.99 flavours wrappeddrinkable. $19.99 weight and nice level mouthful of black jube up in silky-smooth of oak. $15 flavours and excellent tannins. $18 tannin structure. $17.95 PASSAGE ROCK VIOGNER 2010 Winner of the Cotter House Alternative White of the Year 2011 Passage Rock Reserve Syrah 2010 5 stars Michael Cooper Passage Rock Syrah 2010 5 stars Winestate Seeking Australian representation please contact David Evans [email protected] www.passagerockwines.co.nz Tel 09 372 7257110 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

UNDER $20Gardners Ground Fox Creek Red Kirrihill Tullymore Mojo by Terramore Taminick Cellars(NAP) Canowindra Baron McLaren Vale Vineyard Clare RockBare Barossa Coonawarra Glenrowan LiqueurShiraz 2010 Shiraz 2010 Valley Shiraz 2009 Shiraz 2009 Shiraz 2009 Muscat NVRaw berry aromas and Very young vibrant Lovely nose - smells like Warm inviting young Young bold wine with Rich raisined nosean assertive tannic wine with a very oaky Black Fforest cake with wine full of licorice a deep rich red/purple with touches of rosespalate with greener fruit nose showing a minty/ some earthy elements. tar and black olive colour and loaded with and musk leading to aand high alcohol. Needs spicy lift. The palate Rich and intense palate characters. Great mulberries blackcurrants luscious flavoursometime. 5+ $19.99 is full-bodied with a with lovely berry fruits tannins. Just needs and rhubarb characters alcoholic palate that’s complexity of inky well-managed oak and some time. $17.95 which are balanced by super-sweet and soft chocolaty flavours firm tannins. $19 some solid oak. $19 with delightful rancio layered with oak. $17.50 characters. $15 HUNTER VALLEY JAMES HALLIDAY 5 STAR RATING 2007 - 2012 • • Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 111

Vineyard in the Barossa Valley. s oauuthstralia THE BEST WINES OF 2011 CONTENTS Includes: Sparkling, Other White Varietals & Blends, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Semillon, Chardonnay, Rosé, Other Red Varietals & Blends, Grenache & Blends, Cabernet Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz Blends, Shiraz, Sweet White & Fortified.

WET DAMPENS EXPECTATIONS The South Australian year in review, by Karyn FosterFOR SOUTH AUSTRALIA, as for much of the rest of the country, the nominated for their quality in Langhorne Creek. And although the overall district yield was reduced by 20 per cent, there are expectations that there will be somegeneral character of the 2011 vintage ranged from the challenging and difficult exceptional cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, and good results for some of the minorto the downright disastrous, and the results in winemaking terms are likely to red varieties, including petit verdot, malbec, merlot and tempranillo.be patchy, although some high quality wines, especially whites, are emerging. Slow development was a feature of the Barossa season, and with five times the After the relatively benign weather of 2010 brought an end to a series of drought average rainfall in December, disease again made its presence felt. The mildand heat-affected vintages, the barometer swung the other way, inundating the temperatures in March eventually saw slow and even ripening, with fruit in theState’s viticultural regions with prolonged and heavy falls of unseasonal rain. The western and southern parts of the valley ripening more quickly than that of the centralcool and wet weather also reversed the backward creep of vintage observed in valley floor. For some northern parts of the valley, a deluge of 100mm of rain in tworecent years. In nearly all areas flowering was much later than average, fruit set hours on March 20 brought a severe outbreak of botrytis and some heavy losses tolate and the slow ripening conditions, particularly low temperatures, delayed the shiraz crops. Fruit uncompromised by disease showed high quality. Again, becausepicking of both white varieties and reds; in many cases shiraz and cabernet were of mild temperatures, alcohol levels in red wines will be lower than is customary.not picked until well into May. Even with extended time on the vine, the relatively Eden Valley, which saw its last fruit picked just after Easter, is looking forward to ancool conditions meant that red varieties did not always achieve optimal beaume. exceptional range of white wines. In Clare, the cool slow start to the seasonal growth was accompanied by powdery and downy mildew, requiring intensive activity in the Perhaps the major factor affecting growers across the State was the vineyards. Temperatures did not reach the average until well into January, and thenprevalence and persistence of disease, as most regions were affected by relapsed into cool and rainy conditions as the season progressed. Rieslings fromsuccessive waves of powdery and downy mildew. Vigilance and prompt Watervale are showing excellent quality, and late-ripening cabernet is consideredaction were required, and growers who took action to thin their canopies and the best of the reds. Grenache suffered heavily from botrytis infection, while shirazbunches were repaid. Many smaller cellar doors were deserted as all hands struggled except in low cropping and warmer parts of the valley.rushed to apply sulphur sprays, although as the infestations recurred becauseof the damp conditions the demand for sulphur repeatedly outstripped supply The now familiar story of a slow-ripening, disease-prone vintage held goodin many areas, and significant crop losses resulted. Defoliation caused by for the Coonawarra, with rainfall up from the 20-year average by nearly 200mm.mildew reduced resistance to later outbreaks of disease and would also hinder Whites, with chardonnay the stand-out, enjoyed the conditions more. Althoughthe vines as they attempted to ripen grapes in a significantly delayed season. the overall crop was reduced, cabernet sauvignon promises to display its key characteristics, albeit at a much lower beaume than usual. As further heavy rain coincided with the advancing maturation of the grapes,the unwelcome phenomena of bunch rot due to botrytis and other moulds The difficulties of the vintage in the Riverland, which saw some initial infectionsalso became common, wreaking particularly severe effects on thin-skinned, of powdery mildew at budburst, continued throughout the season, with one intightly bunched varieties such as chardonnay and pinot noir. Some growers four days affected by rain. The ravages of disease saw thousands of tonnes ofexperienced heavy losses, although the rain was also responsible for boosting grapes unpicked or rejected, particularly shiraz and colombard, and numerousthe yields of some crops to above average levels. In the Adelaide Hills, rainfall contracts unfulfilled. The overall volume of the crop was nonetheless unaffected,during the growing season was the highest for several decades. The combination and showed a slight increase on 2010 even with a 310ha reduction in the areaof rain with mild and overcast conditions led to numerous infestations of mildew planted to vines. 2011 produced a vintage that is likely to prove as demandingas the spores germinated on wet leaves. There was also heavy infection of for winemaking as it was for viticulture. The hallmark of red wines producedbunches by botrytis, with chardonnay being a major casualty; some blocks from this vintage are likely to be reduced levels of alcohol and lighter colourwere left unpicked and a high percentage was also rejected by buyers. One than usual, traits that are already showing up in the high-volume commercialAdelaide Hills vigneron was led to observe that the climatic conditions were brands currently being released. For the growers and vignerons, there werealmost an exact parallel of an average year in Burgundy, where it is always as ever mixed fortunes; some will emerge from the vintage with excellent winesa struggle to get chardonnay and pinot to ripen, even for light table wines. to show for their trouble, while for others it will be very much a year to forget.Three uninterrupted weeks of fine, sunny weather in April proved instrumentalin ripening cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, and although the character of the Elena Brooks, of Dandelion Vineyards, one of the new young guns on the block,resulting wines is likely to be lighter than usual, the quality should be good. offers an opinion - qualified by dint of her stewardship of vineyards from Langhorne Creek and the Fleurieu, to McLaren Vale and through to the Adelaide Hills; up McLaren Vale contended with a late start to the season and some heavy incidence to Eden Valley and the Barossa: “Only the best vineyards thrived and survived.”of mildew, and was later beset by botrytis and other rots, affecting shiraz in particular.Yields and tonnage of cabernet and grenache were above average. The style of the And as for 2012 – a preview, from Brooks. “It seems to me that a number ofwines is likely to be untypical thanks to low beaume, but good results are anticipated producers who previously chased the extreme of style or ripeness are gun shyfrom the early blocks of shiraz, chardonnay and cabernet. The mildness of the after vintages like 2011. In my mind that will very much help with the stylisticweather is likely to show positive effects in many white and sparkling wines, with return to what we did best – medium bodied wines of fruit purity not winemakingLanghorne Creek vignerons pointing to the positive effects of the mild conditions artefact. The old adage in McLaren Vale is that a great year always gets anand absence of heat waves, which resulted in delicate flavours and high natural inch of rain in December and an inch in January and sunshine does the restacidity in the grapes. Verdelho, sauvignon blanc and early picked chardonnay were and I think across South Australia, that pretty much sums it up.” Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 113

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 south australiasparkling Spring Seed Wine Co. sauvignon blanc Forget Me Not McLarenDeviation Road Vale Sauvignon Blanc Wicks Estate AdelaideAdelaide Hills Semillon 2010 HHHH Hills Sauvignon BlancMethode Champenoise A lot happening here. 2010 HHHHH2009 HHHH1/2 Extremely fruity nose with Gorgeous wine withYouthful nose with fresh a good gooseberry lift. Nice bright green coloured andaromas laced with some fresh slatey/green apple palate intense, pungent varietalattractive broad, yeasty with excellent length. $15 fruit expression, more incomplexity. Very pleasant tight the New Zealand vein.and crisp green apple palate Green tropical bouquet andoffering nice quaffing. $34 mouthfilling flavours. $18Padthaway Estate Fox Gordon Chain of Ponds Black Pauletts Aged Release Penna Lane SkillyEliza Sparkling Shiraz Princess Adelaide Hills Thursday Adelaide Polish Hill River Clare Valley Riesling2005 HHHH Fiano 2010 HHHH Hills Sauvignon Blanc Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHHHHDeveloped, leathery style Lifted white peach bouquet 2010 HHHH 2006 HHHHH Intense aromas of limewith some lovely fleshy, with nice nuttiness. Warm, Youthful, slightly sweaty, Greenish-gold wine with marmalade with a thread ofoaky aromas and a rich, oily, fruit-driven palate - lemon/lime aromas and intense, buttery, toasty tropical fruit. Lots of puresweet, chewy palate with lots of tropicals with floral quite a tropical palate; bouquet edged with kero- varietal fruit flavours on theslightly drying tannins. $35 flashes. Good example of mango, pineapple and like development. Powerful, palate, developing lovely the varietal. $19.95 passionfruit-like in character, slightly sweet, flavours; complexity and showingother white varietals Langhorne Creek Estate with juicy acidity. $20 slight oily mouthfeel crisp acidity. “A stunner!”& blends Bushy Road Langhorne and plenty of acidity. Creek Marsanne riesling “Fabulous!” $40 5+ $25K1 by Geoff Hardy Rousanne 2010 HHHHAdelaide Hills Arneis Nice balance of the two Heggies Reserve Reillys Rockridge2010 HHHHH varieties, creating a Eden Valley Riesling Clare Valley RieslingLychees and limes on the perfumed lemon marmalade 2005 HHHHH 2010 HHHHHnose; quite perfumed and nose and excellent length of Great wine with very Elegant, lifted, stone-fruit-liketropical. Very minerally red apple-like flavours with complex aromas; lots of aromas mingling with delicatepalate with excellent spicy touches. $19.99 citrus and florals with lovely floral nuances. Creamy in theintensity and persistence toasty development. Intense, mouth, with loads of lemonof crisp pear and pineapple viognier mouthwatering acidity drives New Eden Eden Valley curd-like flavours, crisp acidpulp flavours. Great food the beautifully layered, Riesling 2010 HHHHH and slightly warming on thewine. 1-2 $20 Simpatico Wines flavoursome palate. $28.95 Classic Barossa style of finish. $13 Barossa Valley Viognier riesling with quite intense, The Wine SocietyNepenthe 2010 HHHH Peter Lehmann floral-like esters and a lovely Premium SelectionAdelaide Hills Pinot Fragrant, floral aromas with Wigan Eden Valley perfumed lift. Loads of lime Clare Valley RieslingGris 2010 HHHH1/2 some jasmine-like sweetness. Riesling 2005 HHHHH and lemon flavours with 2010 HHHH1/2Fresh, fragrant nose Lively, flavoursome Classic aged riesling with a plenty of acidity and a long, Great aromatics of cutsmelling of peas and apple palate at the greener end toasty nougat bouquet and grippy finish. $21.32 straw, buttery toastblossom. Stylish palate with of the spectrum, with lifted perfumed character. and lime marmalade.a mouthful of some very mouthwatering acidity. $23 Palate still amazingly Leasingham Classic Developed, complex andnice flavours - a combination fresh, with great flavour Clare Clare Valley lingering mouthful of flavourof pears and peaches. Good Tim Smith Wines development and good Riesling 2006 HHHHH reminiscent of marmaladeline of acid. $19 Adelaide Hills Viognier level of ‘natural’ acidity. Different style, with fresh, on toast. $12.99 2010 HHHH lively and intense butteryChain of Ponds Big, appealing style. Smells 5+ $30 kero/toasty nose andAmelia’s Letter of apricot kernels, almonds lingering, buttery flavours on aAdelaide Hills Pinot and dried flowers. Lovely heavier palate complementedGrigio 2010 HHHH varietal flavours of musky/ by still-fresh crisp acidity.“A shining light that shows apricot characters. $28 Lovely lingering finish. $40understanding of thevariety,” was one judge’s Kilikanoon Mort’sopinion. Very complex Block Watervalearomas and a fresh, zesty Riesling 2010 HHHHHand flavoursome palate. $20 Intense floral/rose-like varietal fruit aromas with a slight mineral element. Very elegant lines to the clean, citrusy palate with its crisp, zingy acid finish. Great cellaring potential. 5+ $22114 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

46 th edition NEW DATES SUNDAY 25 WEDNESDAY 28 MARCH 2012 VERONANew date. Same passion. vinitaly.com Organized byTogether with

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 new international Claymore Wines Joshua Trevor Jones Reserve distribution deals Tree Clare Valley Eden Valley Riesling Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH1/2 available Elegant, lifted aromatic Lovely perfumed riesling fruit nose of lemons and limes aromas; smells of rose petals Новое распределеНие with hay-like notes. Up-front and orange blossom. Plenty междуНародНых сделок в Наличии sweet fruitiness on a palate of varietal fruit flavours on a edged with steely acidity fresh and mouthwateringly www.barleystackswines.com and finishing quite austere. acid palate. $25116 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012 3-5 $18 Eden Springs High Eden Riesling 2009 HHHH Crabtree Watervale Already showing a lot of Clare Valley Riesling toasty bottle development 2010 HHHH1/2 for an ‘09; even has slight Attractive complexity of kero elements. Good depth rose petal and lemon peel of varietal fruit balanced by aromas with slight savoury vibrant acidity. Drinking well notes. Lovely flavoursome now. $19.90 palate with balancing acidity and powerful, lingering finish. 5+ $25 Rileys of Eden Valley The Family Eden Valley Taylors Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHHH Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 Big, commercial style with Light, lifted lime juice bouquet pristine lemon aromas and a very elegant, pristine showing a floral edge. Lovely palate with fresh and lively spicy/floral flavours with a nice honeydew-like flavours. Good clean, astringent finish. $16 acid spine balancing the fruit sweetness. Hints of kero. $18 Saltram Mamre Brook Eden Valley Winter Creek Eden Valley Riesling 2008 HHHH Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 Looks remarkably fresh for a Greenish nose - more herbal 2008. Beautifully structured and leafy. Very tight palate wine with lovely fruit weight verging on austere - for and balancing acidity with now - with fresh lime juice apple and grapefruit-like flavours and high level of flavours. $23 acid. Plenty of life ahead. Mt Lofty Ranges 5+ $18 Vineyard Hand Picked Jacob’s Creek Lenswood Riesling Steingarten Barossa 2010 HHHH Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 Zesty, perfumed lemon Lifted lemon sherbet nose aromas. Stylish minerally that’s very fresh and quite palate, on the lean style. delicate. Lively, racy palate Excellent balance of citrus with well-defined lemon juice and talc-like flavours with a flavours and zingy acidity. persistent finish. 5+ $22 Great quaffer! $33.99 Glenholme Vineyards Blesing’s Garden Southern Flinders Ranges Riesling 2009 HHHH Pale gold colour with nice citrus richness on the nose, and slightly broad palate with great complexity of varietal flavours with some savouriness. 3-5 $18 Peter Lehmann Art Leasingham Wines Series Eden Valley Dry Watervale Clare Valley Riesling 2009 HHHH1/2 Riesling 2008 HHHH Very youthful citrus/floral Intense, toasty/buttery, bouquet, and well-structured developed characters on and nicely balanced palate the nose, and lingering, with abundant lovely lemony toasty flavours with great varietal fruit flavours with development complemented some floral elements. $18 by the acidity. $45

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WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 south australiaKilikanoon Mort’s Battle of Bosworth Penfolds Thomas Pepperjack BarossaReserve Watervale McLaren Vale Hyland Cool Climate Grenache RoséRiesling 2010 HHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Adelaide Hills 2010 HHHHThe nose is a lovely Classic ‘90s style with Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Almost magenta in colourperfumed melange of obvious oak influence Nose quite complex and and brimming over withlemons, limes, and musk. on the nose and good buttery, with oak dominating raspberry, rhubarb andOn the palate there’s lots of mouthwatering acid interest the youthful fruit. Oak palate blackcurrant-like fruit. Somefresh varietal fruit flavours on the palate mingling with with good varietal fruit sweetness, with perfectand lively acidity. $35 nutty/honeyed notes. $25 depth, texture and acidity to acid/tannin balance. $23 Lake Breeze Langhorne match. $21.99Crabtree Hilltop Creek Chardonnay other redWatervale Clare Valley 2009 HHHH Penfolds Cellar varietals & blendsRiesling 2010 HHHH Big, oaky chardonnay with Reserve Adelaide HillsLovely nose - smells like a lovely bouquet. Attractive Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Tscharke Only Sonbuttered toast and lemon floral notes and fresh, lifted Plenty of spicy oak aromas Barossa Valleycurd. Crisp, fresh fruit palate line of acid with lots of underscored with floral/ Tempranillo Gracianowith slightly toasty flavours. vanillin oak. Very stylish. $19 grapefruit notes. Very textured 2008 HHHHHGood balance and plenty of Taylors St Andrews palate. Fruit overpowered by Smoky/oaky nose withlength. 3-5 $22 Clare Valley the oak and buttery malo - for brooding blue fruits and a Peter Lehmann Chardonnay 2008 HHHH now. $33.99 big dash of black pepper.Jim Barry The Florita Margaret Barossa Interesting complex, buttery/ Long, fresh and spicy in theClare Valley Riesling Semillon 2005 HHHHH peach aromas, and a creamy Rosemount Limited mouth, with loads of flavour2009 HHHH This golden wine is a palate with lingering mouth- Release Adelaide Hills underscored by soft, furryStill lively and fresh, with beautiful example of a coating, buttery/lemon zest Chardonnay 2009 HHHH tannins. $18.28plenty of intense and perfectly aged semillon with flavours - very varietal. $35 Very attractive floral, Bird in Handcomplex aromas and pure varietal fruit expression. Morgan’s Adelaide Hills quince and citrus-like Adelaide Hills Merlotflavours of marmalade, Has loads of toasty/orange Chardonnay 2010 HHHH aromas leading to a juicy, 2009 HHHHHpreserved lemon and buttery marmalade characters on the Fine orange blossom bouquet well-balanced peaches and Big wine for a merlot - verytoast and crisp acidity. $40 nose, which are echoed on and ripe, tropical palate made cream palate - very lively plummy/chocolate nose the palate. $30 more in an Old World style and fresh. $29.99 and lovely clean, sweet Glenholme Vineyards but, according to one judge, plum fruit expression on Blesing’s Garden “It’s spot on!” $15 Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper the palate with some grippy Southern Flinders Bird in Hand Adelaide Eden Valley Chardonnay tannins and good-quality Ranges Semillon Hills Chardonnay 2009 HHHH chocolaty oak. $35 2009 HHHH 2009 HHHH Interesting nose; smells Reillys Leasingham Developed complexity on Lovely aromas like figs, smoky with characters such Tempranillo 2010 the vibrant melon/pineapple grapefruit and freshly as clotted cream, yeast HHHH1/2 nose, and slightly oily palate turned earth, with loads of and preserved lemons. Up-front fruit sweetness, with good flavour weight and varietal fruit flavours on a Complex, creamy palate followed by grippy tannins nice toasty maturity. $18 nicely textured palate. Great with nice oak presence and and the judicious use of oak. food wine. $25 vibrancy. Very varietal, with lovely chardonnay Yalumba FDW7C 3-5 $15 long, lingering flavours. Very Adelaide Hills young; needs more time. Wolf Blass Chardonnay 2008 HHHH rosé White Label Adelaide Attractive smoky, peaty, 3-5 $29Patrick of Coonawarra Hills Chardonnay mushroomy complexity of Geoff Merrill Bush Vine Patritti Barossa ValleyAged Wrattonbully 2007 HHHHH aromas, and intense savoury McLaren Vale Grenache Saperavi 2009 HHHH1/2Riesling 2006 HHHH Beautifully layered, complex flavours on a long, mouth- Rosé 2010 HHHH Very interesting dense,On the fresh, lemon style with lovely aged watering palate fresh with Classic benchmark that’s inky style of wine with anblossom nose there’s some characters evolving. Smells acid. $29.95 clean and bright with deep incredible concentrationattractive bottle age, which of citrus and oyster shells, Protero Gumeracha pink hues. Fresh, lifted of soft, spicy fruits and aalso shows up on the clean, with mouth-watering Adelaide Hills fruit on the nose and some fabulous core of velvety-lemony varietal palate. $38 grapefruit, peach and Chardonnay 2007 HHHH nice confectionery fruit smooth tannins. All it needs cashew flavours. Youthful, Subtle fruit salad nose and flavours. $20 now is more time. $14semillon fresh and vibrant. $42.99 fleshy, fruity palate with Yelland & Papps Delight Running with Bulls Taylors Clare Valley persistent flavours and nice Barossa Valley Grenache Barossa TempranilloKilikanoon Barrel Chardonnay minerally characters with Rosé 2010 HHHH 2010 HHHHFermented Clare Valley 2009 HHHH1/2 oak quite prominent, but a Spicy floral raspberry/cherry Typical purple colour andSemillon 2009 HHHHH Beautifully developed, good effort. $22 nose, and great balance and lovely spicy, rhubarb-likeIntense, pungent lemon toasty, honeyed caramel Penfolds Reserve length of spicy varietal fruit aromas with quite a feralcordial aromas with lovely complexity on the nose, Bin A Adelaide Hills with soft, dusty tannins and character. Lively, juicy,toastiness and developing and creamy, viscous, Chardonnay 2009 HHHH a delicate hint of mint. $18 mouthwatering purple fruitattractive pure varietal mouthfilling stone-fruit Vibrant, lifted, oak-driven flavours. $19.95grassiness on the palate, flavours with crisp acidity nose, followed by a precise,with oak ferment adding and a slightly hot finish. $18 well-focused, minerally palatecomplexity and crisp acid for with masses of varietal fruitbalance. $20 and lovely quality oak. $89.99118 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012



WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 south australiaThorn-Clarke K1 by Geoff Hardy Penfolds Bin 138 Rosemount Diamond cabernet sauvignonShotfire Barossa Adelaide Hills Barossa Grenache Cellars Fleurieu 2009-2007Quartage 2008 HHHH Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH Shiraz Mourvedre Peninsula GrenacheEarthy/leathery aromas Complex concentration of 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHH Kirrihill Tullymorewith a light minty lift, and inky/dark cherry aromas with Obvious earthy/eucalypt Some pepper and cloves Vineyard Clare Valleyan inky/tarry palate that has some intense ‘waves’ of characters on the nose, on the nose. Powerful and Cabernet Sauvignonlength and structure and a compost, cherries and dark which are echoed on the luscious mulberry fruit palate 2009 HHHHHgood level of mineral-like chocolate flavours. $35 palate. Good red berry supported by earthy tannins Slight licorice-like characterscharacters. $20 Paracombe Adelaide fruit weight edged with in the background. $12.99 on the nose, blending with Hills Malbec 2008 HHHH soft tannins. Has excellent stewed red fruit and a nice919 SA Riverland Nice mid-weight style - structure and length. $30 cabernet blends earthiness. Youthful palateTempranillo 2009 HHHH some complexity - fresh has great length of varietalDark and earthy on the nose, purple berry varietal fruit and Claymore Wines You’ll Yalumba The Signature fruit, acid and tight tannins.with perfumed, violet-like big mouthful of chocolaty Never Walk Alone Clare Barossa Cabernetnuances. Elegant palate with oak, with the tannins Valley Grenache Mataro Sauvignon Shiraz 5+ $18.99rich fruit, ripe tannins and providing direction. $27 Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 2006 HHHHH Ballast Stone McLarengood oak treatment. $35 Complex, savoury, peppery Bright, intense array of Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Art Wine Tres aromas and a velvety palate aromas - black olives, plums 2009 HHHH1/2919 SA Riverland Amigos Clare Valley exhibiting sour cherry and spices. The tannic Attractive and seriousDurif 2009 HHHH Tempranillo Graciano flavours, good use of oak palate is long and dense and wine with subtle, cigar-likeRich and very flavoursome Garnacha 2009 HHHH and silky-smooth tannins. brimming over with briary aromatics subtly infusedwine smelling of chocolate Bold minty/chocolaty nose Has a great funky character. fruit. Great weight and very with roses and greenand spices and with big, bold, - quite tarry and complex - fresh for its age. $46.95 tea! Lovely luscious redblack fruit flavours filling the with a delicious mouthful 5+ $18 Lake Breeze Bullant fruit palate with somebig, tannic palate. $38 of fruit seamlessly blended Langhorne Creek astringency. $17Tscharke The Curse with the oak and youthful clos Clare Cabernet Merlot Aramis Vineyards BlackBarossa Valley tannins. $20 The Hayes Boy 2009 HHHH1/2 Label McLaren ValeZinfandel 2008 HHHH Taylors Clare Valley Watervale Grenache Great wine with a lovely Cabernet SauvignonVery attractive ripe raisin Merlot 2009 HHHH 2009 HHHH1/2 lifted cherry bouquet 2009 HHHH1/2nose and some excellent Intense charry oak and spicy Vibrant, lifted, raspberry showing attractive almond Attractive and supplevibrant varietal fruit flavours mocha characters on the confectionery-like bouquet characters and long, intense, wine with an incrediblewith well-matched, nose, and vibrant berry palate with earthy/chocolaty notes. briary red fruit flavours on a concentration of peppermint-mouthwatering acidity and with peppery elements and Intense and inky in the well-structured palate. $15 like characters. Smells ofnicely balanced oak. $23.65 soft tannins. $18 mouth, with sweet varietal raspberries and tastes of The Islander Majestic fruit flavours and dry, savoury Stephen John satsuma plums. Just needs Plough Kangaroo Island tannins. 3-5 $22 Clare Valley Cabernet more time in the cellar. $25 Malbec 2006 HHHH Merlot 2008 HHHH Crabtree “This wine is proof that Yalumba Barossa Attractive nose, quite Windmill Vineyard 2006 was a brilliant Bush Vine Grenache reserved with dusty black Watervale Clare Valley vintage,” said one judge. 2009 HHHH fruit aromas followed by a Cabernet Sauvignon Very fresh, floral fruit with Quite Rhone-like, with nicely balanced and very 2009 HHHH1/2 crushed herb notes. Still has tarry/inky blackcurrant jam elegant palate full of pristine Aromas of dark roasted loads of tannins. $37 aromas and sweet dark fruit and fine tannins. $15 coffee and prunes lift off the berry flavours with tight Taylors Eighty Acres nose, followed by a lovely grenache & blends tannins, good level of oak Clare Valley velvety-smooth palate with and lively acidity. $18.95 Cabernet Shiraz great tannin structure and Penny’s Hill Merlot 2008 HHHH intense sweet fruit flavours. The Experiment Yelland & Papps Delight Lovely porty/licorice-like McLaren Vale Grenache Barossa Valley Grenache bouquet, with a fleshy, 5+ $25 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHHH jammy, plum and black Powerful wine with Rich, tarry plum aromas olive-like palate showing lots going on. Smells of with leafy complexity and earthy notes. Good acid raspberries with a perfumed/ lifted spirit. Fresh, bright red structure. $15 eucalypt lift and has a pretty fruit flavours showing nice cherry palate full of lovely earthiness and soft, juicy flavour intensity and nice tannins. $19.95 cedary oak in support. $30 Vinrock McLaren Vale Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2010 HHHH Subtle fruit cake and spicy aromas, followed by a lovely intensity and length of cranberry-like fruit flavours with attractive spiciness. $20120 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

south australiaAnnie’s Lane Wicks Estate AdelaideClare Valley Cabernet Hills CabernetMerlot 2009 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHHHShy, earthy nose with Finely tuned blackcurranthints of berries, mocha fruit nose with inky intensity,and crushed ant elements. and a solid wallop of fruitSmooth palate with intense on the palate, supported byraspberry/chocolate flavours good tannin structure. $19and firm tannin backbone. 5+ $20.99KilikanoonBlocks Road Clare ValleyCabernet Sauvignon2007 HHHH1/2Restrained but complexaromas of stewed fruit,mixed spice and vanilla, Fox Gordon Kingwith up-front sweet fruit on Louis Barossa Valleya complex palate with long, Cabernet Sauvignongrippy tannins and a mocha 2008 HHHHfinish. 5+ $33 Lifted spicy plum nose leads to a dense, tight palate withTaylors Clare Valley a great varietal fruit coreCabernet Sauvignon and showing a good tannin2009 HHHH1/2 softness and length. $44.95Complexity of earthy, mocha Peter Lehmannand ripe plum aromas, with Art Series Barossaa juicy, fleshy, sweet fruit Cabernet Sauvignonpalate showing great varietal 2008 HHHHdefinition and balancing Genuine varietal characterstannins. All it needs is more on the nose; herbal andtime. 5+ $18 minty with some blackberry and olive elements. PalateBerton Vineyard offers a mouthful of minty/Reserve Coonawarra berry flavours. $18Cabernet Sauvignon Saltram Winemaker’s2008 HHHH1/2 Selection BarossaPowerful, inky and Valley Cabernetsomewhat overripe nose, Sauvignon 2008 HHHHand a soft, ripe, spicy plum Loads of pure varietalpalate with nice varietal fruit fruit here, with dense,weight with good level of plummy bouquet and stalkygrippy tannins. $17 blackcurrant flavours on a well-structured palate withQuarisa Treasures soft tannin length. $50Coonawarra Cabernet Yalumba The CigarSauvignon 2008 HHHH Coonawarra CabernetWarm, rich and very Sauvignon 2009 HHHHdrinkable, with good spicy The attractive nose is syrupy,cabernet aromas and leafy and inky and leads onplenty of oak on the palate to a big, full, sweet berrymatched by ripe, sweet palate balanced with somevarietal fruit. $14.99 powerful tannins. $27.95 Majella CoonawarraClaymore Wines Holy Cabernet SauvignonGrail Clare Valley 2009 HHHHCabernet Sauvignon Well-structured, big, oaky,2009 HHHH syrupy cabernet withBig, tight, tannic style that attractive varietal fruitneeds more time to soften depth of dark berries and aup and is oaked with sweet seamless oak balance. $33plum fruit, anise, licorice andslight earthy characters. $20Eyre CreekDoctor’s PaddockClare Valley CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHHHThis one is a keeper with itsdepth of minty blackberry fruitwell matched with chewyoak tannins. Nicely texturedpalate. 5+ $25 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 121

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 south australiacabernet sauvignon Jim Barry Clare Red Wicks Estate Eminence Thorn-Clarke2006 & older Clare Valley Shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz Shotfire Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 2006 HHHHH Cabernet 2007 HHHH 2009 HHHHH The nose is a complexity of Nose is a complex meaty/ Good depth of crimson ripe stone-fruits mingling forest floor compote. Savoury hues. Inky dark fruit aromas with aniseed and eucalypt. highlights on the palate are complemented by someReillys Dry Land The palate has intense spicy, complemented by black fruits nice toasty oak. Rich, denseClare Valley Cabernet with nice texture. $60 palate with good flavourSauvignon 2005 HHHHH eucalypt and sweet fruit persistence and mouth- flavours well integrated with coating tannins. Very stylish.Great chocolaty, rich wine oak and acid. 5+ $16with loads of character. 5+ $20Leathery nose with a Maglieri McLaren Valedistinctive menthol lift. Maxwell Four Roads Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2Still plenty of varietal fruit McLaren Vale Shiraz “An outstanding wine!”on a palate with slight Grenache 2009 HHHH enthused one judge - hasgamey notes, youthful Slight Christmas cake ripe, sweet, blackberrytannins and warming characters to the nose, bouquet and a delicious long,alcohol. 5+ $29 and a palate with sweet velvety, licorice-like palate - concentrated fruit, very nice very well made. $19.99Reillys The Dancer Patrick of Coonawarra use of oak and mild tanninsClare Valley Home Block Cabernet allowing early drinking. $19.95 Penny’s Hill Skeleton Sauvignon 2006 HHHH Key McLaren ValeCabernet Sauvignon Lovely complex, aged Fox Creek JSM McLaren Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/22006 HHHH1/2 aromas, followed by a soft, Vale Shiraz Cabernet Big, licoricey wine withGreat colour, spicy/earthy well-developed palate with Sauvignon Cabernet sweet mulberry aromasnose with big eucalypt lift good flavour intensity and a Franc 2009 HHHH showing a cedary oakand rich and complex palate certain elegance. $48 Classic blend and a very nice element. Tannic palate haswith lovely concentration Taylors St Andrews example of a wine exhibiting loads of floral fruit and spicyand length of oak/fruit/ Clare Valley Cabernet perfectly balanced varietal Christmas cake characters.menthol flavours and quite a Sauvignon 2006 HHHH fruit, delicate tannins and a Very attractive. $35hot finish. 3-5 $45 Nicely integrated aromas good lift of oak. $22.50 Ingoldby McLaren Vale of plums and dusty oak Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 with hints of crushed Pepperjack Anvers Razorback Road Very tight and elegant shiraz ants. Palate still retains Barossa Shiraz Viognier Adelaide Hills Shiraz with an interesting, melange fruit sweetness and tight, 2008 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon of rosemary and raspberry youthful tannins. $60 Vibrant, easy-to-drink wine 2009 HHHH aromas and hints of “cypress Orlando Jacaranda exhibiting balance, life and Dark, closed nose has spicy hedge clippings”. Inky depth Ridge Coonawarra length. The nose has spicy and savoury tones. Firm, dry, to the long, lingering palate. Cabernet Sauvignon plum/floral aromas and the black peppery, oak and plum Time! $19.99 2005 HHHH palate jubey fruit flavours palate with a lick of sweet Good, clean, well-made with soft tannins. $27 berries and fine tannins. $25 wine with elegant, smokyPeter Lehmann development on the nose Karra Yerta Wines shiraz and a firm, tannic palate. Barossa Ranges Shiraz 2010-2009 Could do with even more Cabernet 2006 HHHHThe Mentor Barossa cellaring. $62.99 Lovely varietal berry fruitsCabernet Sauvignon Reschke Empyrean that are still very fresh and2006 HHHH1/2 Coonawarra Cabernet showing earthy/complexityBeautifully fragrant tarry/ Sauvignon 2004 HHHH and lovely drying tannins.treacley aromas with similar Still amazingly youthful but Long, complex wine thatcharacters in the mouth. developing beautifully. Good needs food! $25 concentration of coffee/plumFresh and lively palate with aromas and a long, fleshy,mouthwatering acidity. Years oak/fruit palate. $115ahead of it yet. 5+ $40 shiraz blendsJim Barry The RockBare McLaren ValeBenbournie Clare Valley Saltram Winemaker’s Shiraz 2009 HHHHHCabernet Sauvignon Selection Barossa Valley Solid wine with interesting2004 HHHH1/2 Shiraz Tempranillo aromas of tarragon, lavender,Great colour, complex 2008 HHHHH basil and chilli. Palate showsearthy, prune-like bouquet Dense, inky colour with stunning length of spicy/and a palate brimming over youthful licorice and chocolaty characters layeredwith sweet varietal fruit. blackcurrant bouquet with loganberry fruit. Give itTannins still tight. Has and a very good core of time. $21.95plenty of length and great intense, youthful varietalmouthfeel. $90 fruit nicely layered with Taylors Clare Valley lovely velvety tannins. Drinking well now. $50 Longview Adelaide Shiraz 2009 HHHHH Hills Shiraz Cabernet Robust purple shiraz with Sauvignon 2009 HHHH inky, rich, earthy/gamey Fusion of spicy/meaty/ aromas and hints of crushed plum fruit fragrances, ants. Palate a seamless followed by a nicely integration of sweet textured meaty/stone-fruit plums, earthy oak and silky palate showing a backbone tannins. Good varietal fruit of juicy acidity. $15.50 expression. 5+ $18122 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

south australia The Black Chook Region Tasting McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 SPARKLING Intense, dark purple varietal with some barrel ferment COCK + BULL elements on the nose Cuvee Brut and a big, juicy palate that Now + Available has tightness, texture and weight plus a long, soft Available at tannin finish. $17 danmurphys.com.au Wicks Estate Adelaide Reillys Rockridge Hills Shiraz 2009 HHHH Clare Valley Shiraz Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 123 Bright nose projects aromas 2009 HHHH of black fruits, cola and Fresh, lively rhubarb/ licorice. Warm, nicely strawberry fruit nose with textured palate with pure peppery/mocha notes. varietal fruit expression. Pleasant berries and cream- Simple but nice. $19 like palate with lovely softness in the mouth. $15 Tomich Hill AdelaideShingleback Hills Syrah 2009 HHHH Crabtree WatervaleThe Gate McLaren Vale Nose offers a lovely lift of Clare Valley ShirazShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 sweet plum and apricot 2009 HHHHIntense aromas reminiscent aromas. Palate a nice Lovely integration of whiteof cherry liqueur and rich, blend of red fruits with pepper, plums and greenbut not jammy, loganberry judiciously applied oak. leaf characters with slightfruit flavours with dark Looking good! $30 toastiness. Interesting freshchocolaty oak. Needs moretime; has up to 10 years McGuigan The Shortlist and lively palate with grippyahead of it. $34.95 Barossa Valley Shiraz tannins. 5+ $25 2008 HHHH Hints of cedar and leather on Heaslip Wines the nose. Very savoury palate Dayspring Clare Valley with dense dark fruit flavours Shiraz 2009 HHHH integrated with polished Ripe, slightly porty nose; timber-like oak. Good length a touch of licorice. Big and and structure. $25 fleshy in the mouth, with lovely juicy sweet fruit Pepperjack Barossa flavours and good use of Shiraz 2008 HHHH oak. A different style. $18 Rich tapenade and coffee bean aromas, and a fleshy Lake Breeze Bullant palate full of mouthwatering Langhorne Creek Shiraz dark fruit flavours nicely 2009 HHHH integrated with fine, dusty Slightly reductive nose but tannins. 3-5 $27 good varietal concentration on the palate, with nice Yelland & Papps Divine tannins to carry it and good Barossa Valley Shiraz acid backbone. Has a funky 2008 HHHH element. $15 Dense, brick-red wine with aFox Gordon Eight savoury oak nose and a thick Wirra Wirra concentration of syrupy-sweet Catapult McLaren Vale varietal fruit flavours on the Shiraz 2009 HHHH long, slightly hot palate. $65 Very rich and juicy style with an impressive concentrationUncles Barossa Valley Annie’s Lane Clare Valley of zesty varietal fruit and slightShiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHH eucalyptus characters. NicePlum aromas mingle with Nice dry red style. Funky nose body and good balance. $24treacle and tobacco notes. with soft licorice elements andBig, alcoholic palate with lots of fruit on a simple palate Pertaringa Undercovergood varietal fruit, drying with some grippy tannins McLaren Vale Shiraztannins and well-handled oak to balance. Lingering on the 2009 HHHHto balance. 5+ $19.95 finish. $20.99 Very concentrated, very rich, full-bodied, chocolaty shiraz.Terramore Coonawarra Drinking well now but willShiraz 2009 HHHH be really fabulous in a yearHerbal, peppery bouquet or two. $22with nice spicy lift and cool-climate flavours with well-handled oak and a firm tanninbackbone in support. $19

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 south australiaDowie Doole McLaren Renards Folly McLaren Solstice Adelaide Hills Simpatico Wines PirramimmaVale Shiraz 2009 HHHH Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHHH Barossa Valley Shiraz Stock’s Hill McLarenMore complex style, with Intense chocolaty bouquet “Wow!” Nose has great 2008 HHHH1/2 Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHHsubtle aromas, good varietal with nice spicy/earthy notes. complexity - a compote of Dark, brooding berry fruit Elegant, spicy mentholflavour concentration, Very ripe, syrupy, fruit-driven fruit, fresh earth and wild nose with seamless oak in characters mingling withimpressive length and some palate wrapped in some ferment characters. Lovely the background. Ripe, warm primary fruit aromas andattractive chalky tannins. $25 really powerful oak. $19.95 range of sweet, warm, earthy and flavoursome blackcurrant/ beautifully balanced, flavours. “Wine of the day for cassis palate with stand-out mouthfilling, chocolatyHaselgrove me,” said one judge. $38 acidity. 3-5 $35 tannins. $16First Cut McLaren Vale Bird in HandShiraz 2009 HHHH Rosenvale Vineyards Nest Egg Adelaide HillsPepper and spice on the Estate Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHHHnose and lots of berries. 2008 HHHH1/2 Intense, concentratedVery rich and pretty palate. Inviting, well-made and very colour, ripe, pungent nose“The wine will develop complex wine smelling of and supple, fleshy palate.more complexity in time,” mulberries and olives and A very good wine - “verypredicted one judge. $18 exhibiting a lovely palate consumer-friendly”, Fox Gordon Hannah’s loaded with juicy black fruit according to one judge. $75Zonte’s Footstep Swing Barossa Valley flavours. 3-5 $24Lake Doctor Vineyard Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2Langhorne Creek Shiraz Oak-driven nose Dolan Barossa Shiraz2009 HHHH underscored by some lovely 2008 HHHH1/2Well-made, chunky wine Willunga 100 McLaren blackberry fruit. Seamless, Big, rich, vibrant wine - stillwith a fruit-driven nose Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH savoury palate with dense very fresh, with attractiveand a big, powerful, jammy Ripe black plums on the black olive and blackberry- bramble fruit nose andpalate with clean flavours nose, with a dash of spice like flavours with a hot powerful, silky-smooth, tannicedged with herbal-like and good length and balance finish. 3-5 $44.95 palate with dense bramblecharacters. $18.99 of spicy plum flavours with fruit and chalky acidity. $49Kangarilla Road subtle use of oak. $23 Stephen JohnMcLaren Vale Shiraz Deviation Road Clare Valley Shiraz2009 HHHH shiraz 2008-2007 Reserve Adelaide Hills 2008 HHHHRaspberry nose with biscuity Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 A gorgeous intense darkelements and a big, rich and Cimicky Trumps Great nose - ink and black and spicy cool climatepowerful chocolaty palate. Barossa Valley Shiraz olives meet cherry fruit. style of shiraz that’s greatStill very young - give it time 2008 HHHHH Lovely creamy-textured for drinking now or youto really shine. $20 Big, solid wine, almost black palate with good hit of can cellar it for futureTapestry McLaren Vale in colour with a crimson edge. varietal fruit, some well- enjoyment. 5+ $25Shiraz 2009 HHHH Nose has huge concentration handled oak and then theBig, powerful wine with of black olive/bramble-like tannins at the end. $38loads of chocolaty oak fruit. Lovely rich, ripe fruitcomplemented by stewed palate with pencil shaving oak Kilikanoon Oraclefruit characters. “One for and fine tannins. $18 Clare Valley Shirazthe oak lovers,” commented Annie’s Lane Copper 2007 HHHH1/2one judge. $25 Trail Clare Valley Shiraz Gentle complex, earthy/Brick Kiln McLaren Vale 2008 HHHHH herbal bouquet with a spicyShiraz 2009 HHHH Fantastic, intense, inky- lift, and showing greatMassive wine with very purple colour with aromas of persistence of complexwarm, wild bramble raisins, dried fruit and spices varietal fruit flavours with aflavours and a fair amount and seamless integration of youthful tannic balance. $80of quality oak. “Has a long cedary oak and dried fruitlife ahead of it,” according flavours with sweet, drying Karanto 7Ato one judge. $21 tannins. $53.99 Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 STAR RATINGS  Classic, spicy shiraz loaded Anvers McLaren Vale up with medium oak Shiraz 2008 HHHHThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of intensity and exhibiting very Has power and weight butexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. nice earthy primary fruit is still a very elegant shirazAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry characters. Has good tannin with a tight acid backbone.professionals and are compared in peer structure and is slightly hot High in alcohol but it is inclasses by three judges. on the finish. $22 check and has a lovely long,CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, lingering finish. $28a major mail-order business. Pauletts Andreas Polish Leasingham ClassicCD Cellar door price. Hill River Clare Valley Clare Clare ValleyCDO Cellar door only. Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2007 HHHHSO Sold out. Good example of a shiraz Leathery/earthy complexity$N/A Price not available at time of printing. from a tough vintage. and a touch savoury on the Savoury/meaty aromas nose, with lingering, spicy, Contact information pg 174. with leathery complexity plum flavours and some and lingering, nutty sweet grippy tannins on the finish. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). flavours with firm tannic 5+ $55 structure. 3-5 $50124 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011Wolf Blass Platinum Yalumba The OctaviusLabel Barossa Shiraz Barossa Shiraz2007 HHHH 2006 HHHHHSmells of Christmas cake Dense, dark colour vergingwith some minty elements. on black, with intense, inkyGreat palate structure - lots complexity to the nose andof oak but also plenty of red/ a lithe, mouthfilling red berryblue fruit to match. Will age fruit palate that exhibitswell. $160 great structure and plenty ofBrick Kiln finesse. $99.95The Groove McLarenVale Shiraz 2008 HHHH Wolf Blass PlatinumLifted, sweet, porty bouquet Label Barossa Shirazand a mouthful of spicy earthy, 2006 HHHHHblackcurrant flavours with nice Intense, fragrant and stilloak and tannin weight and very youthful wine smellinglength. “A good effort.” $36 of black fruits, spices andKimbolton House pencil shavings oak. SuperbShiraz 2008 HHHH palate with big, ripe tanninSpicy, earthy, fruity wine structure with long, vibrant,with big, tight fruit freshness, seamless flavours. $160a lot of oak and somecomplexity developing, Jacob’s Creek Centenary“Quite feminine,” observed Hill Barossa Valleyone judge. $20 Shiraz 2006 HHHHHShark’s Block McLaren Lovely, lively wine with veryVale Shiraz 2008 HHHH attractive and very ripe, spicyBig, dark colour, creamy varietal fruit with lots of minty/black fruit nose with a porty eucalypt characters. Has liftedlift, and nice complex varietal aromas and fresh and lively,palate with dense sweet/ spicy flavours. $53.99sour fruit characters. $42.99 Leasingham Winesshiraz 2006 & older Provis Clare Valley Shiraz 2006 HHHHHSaltram No 1 Barossa Lovely fruit cake-like aromasShiraz 2006 HHHHH with a fresh, spicy lift andExcellent wine that has nicely aged charactersintense, complex blackberry/ developing. Much the sameblueberry-like aromas and happening on a palate witha palate that has very fine, a big, youthful, tannic finish.long tannins integrated with A keeper. 5+ $125the rich varietal fruit - loadsof flavour here. $78Bethany LE Barossa Peter LehmannShiraz 2006 HHHHH Stonewell BarossaFresh, lighter style of shiraz - Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2but very complex with loads Lovely complex aromas -of lively varietal fruit, some smells of brambles, spiceslovely chocolaty oak, old and meaty smallgoods with aleathery-like development hint of mint. The dense, thickand evolving beautifully. $48 palate has mouth-coating dark fruit flavours. $90 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 125

THE south australia ROCKBARE Heaslip Wines Barossa Valley Estate Pirramimma Eight Carat RETREAT Dayspring Clare Valley E&E Black Pepper McLaren Vale Liqueur Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 Barossa Valley Shiraz Port HHHH1/2 SOAK UP THE ADELAIDE Elegant style with a 2006 HHHH Lifted mocha bouquet with HILLS WINE COUNTRY & complex, earthy bouquet Earthy/savoury nose rancio nuances. QUAINT HAHNDORF showing a spearmint edge. with nice fruit cake-like Rich chocolaty/toffee palate TOWNSHIP WHILST Palate offers a mouthful of characters. Palate still young and nice quince paste TAKING TIME TO RELAX, beautifully integrated fruit/ and lively, with juicy fruit characters on the finish. RECHARGE & RELISH. oak flavours and powdery flavours and very fine tannic “Great served as an aperitif,” tannins. 5+ $16 backbone. $90 said one judge. $16 WANT TO KNOW MORE? CALL THE ROCKBARE RETREAT Hartz Barn Wines The Old Faithful Café Saltram Mr Pickwicks General Store Barossa Block McLaren Vale Particular Tawny ON 08 8388 7155 or email Shiraz 2005 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHHH NV HHHH1/2 [email protected] Excellent development and Old-style shiraz with smoky/ Powerful intensity of raisin complexity to the nose - meaty nose and earthy and prune-like aromas with126 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012 smells of tar, smallgoods nuances. Palate offers elegant rancio characters. and spices and has youthful, a good mouthful of rich, Nicely balanced palate seamless varietal flavours on chocolaty flavours mixed with plenty of flavour and a well-balanced palate. $30 with fruit cake notes. $50 length and noticeable oak Barossa Valley Estate Tatachilla Foundation influence. $69.99 Ebenezer Barossa Valley McLaren Vale Shiraz Winter Creek Fortified Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 2005 HHHH Vintage Shiraz 2006 Complexity of black fruits, Good drink with attractive (375ml) HHHH tar, leather and earthy varietal fruit, good Dark prune aromas with lovely aromas - great! Absolutely complexity, nice weight and rancio and spirit complexity. mouthwatering fruit flavours length and a long, lingering Long, soft palate developing on a palate showing lots of finish. “Drink now,” advised complex flavour profile with structure and intensity. $35 one judge. $55 well-integrated spirit. $25 sweet white & fortified Annie’s Lane Clare Valley Botrytis Riesling Battle of Bosworth (375ml) 2009 HHHH Clarence McLaren Vale Intense, apricot/botrytis- Sticky Semillon 2010 like aromatics and a lovely (375ml) HHHHH creamy palate with very Beautiful honeyed apricot/ fresh, sweet, lingering melon-like bouquet and an apricot flavours. $25 extremely luscious palate Dowie Doole exhibiting wonderful fresh Sticky Bits McLaren fruit salad flavours. “I love Vale Cane Cut Viognier it!” enthused one judge. $15 2010 (375ml) HHHH Mix of honeydew melon and orange aromas, and a very sweet, lemon sorbet- like palate with overt acidity. Would be great with cheese. $21.50 God’s Hill Menzel Reschke Botrytis 919 Limited Release Barossa Valley Shiraz Late Picked Fortified 2009 HHHH 2006 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Elegant, Portuguese-like style Inky-red wine with oaky (375ml) HHHH1/2 that’s rich with mulberry/ nose and background Light golden wine with blackberry fruit, warming of cherry fruit. Complex honeyed apricot fruit aromas spirit and nice chewy palate with sweet fruit cake and sweet, marmalade-like chocolaty characters. $50 flavours and excellent acid/ flavours on a fine, elegant tannin balance. $50 and seamlessly balanced Saltram Mamre palate. $25 Brook Barossa Shiraz 2006 HHHH Big chocolaty/fruit cake style of shiraz with rich, powerful aromas and ripe, fleshy palate with a silky mouthfeel and some alcoholic warmth. $33



Tahbilk’s 1860 old shiraz vines. victoria THE BEST WINES OF 2011 CONTENTS Includes: Sparkling, Other White Varietals & Blends, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Other Red Varietals & Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends, Shiraz Blends, Shiraz, Durif, Sweet White & Fortified.

FINDING THE SILVER LINING The Victorian year in review, by Jeni PortIT STARTED OFF AS A CHALLENGE and then became even more wine style, Passe-Tout-Grains. “I did the trial blend in 2010 when I was investigating whole bunch and whole berry maceration carbonique forso. First it was rain in January followed by heavier downpours and finally the gamay,” he says. “Everyone loved the style so I decided to proceed,furious flooding, striking much of the eastern seaboard culminating in but I added some excellent French oak to tweak the flavours.”terrible loss of life in Queensland. To the south in regional Victoria wholetowns were isolated for days with rising floodwaters. Leading on from the growing acceptance of LDRs on wine lists, Lloyd says he was encouraged by Australian sommeliers to pursue the new At Great Western in the state’s west Seppelt saw its 148-year-old Aussie PTG style together with the growth in interest in so-called “natural”vineyard, St Peter’s, under water for 24 hours but the oldest vines, like the wines. “It was bottled unfined and unfiltered and with just 15 parts sulfurcentenarians at neighbouring Best’s, shook off the drenching. By March, dioxide (free), and as such is as close to a natural wine as I will do,” saysas another major rain event was predicted, Seppelt winemaker Jo Marsh Lloyd. The word “natural” hit home with many consumers and makers inhad her whites already picked and in the winery. “It certainly looks to be 2011. It was the year that Alan Cooper at Cobaw Ridge finally made thean excellent year for whites,” she said at the time, “so I am really hopeful move from organic to biodynamic, a move years in the making. “We’vefor our whites and it looks to be a sensational year for our sparklings from gone from farming with minimal chemical input, to non-certified organic,Henty (near Portland).” Marsh can consider herself lucky. Disease followed to certified organic and now certified biodynamic,” he says. “The obviousthe rain and the humidity, fruit rot and nasty fungal infections like botrytis natural progression for us is just that - natural - working hard to do as littleset in, decimating some crops with both white and red grapes hit hard, as possible.” Cobaw Ridge now becomes the only certified biodynamicespecially the delicate riesling and the late ripening cabernet sauvignon. vigneron in the Macedon Ranges. The next step is to seek entry into the international Return To Terroir biodynamic winemaker promotional group Harcourt producer Adam Marks at Bress lost quantities of both varieties that takes the natural winemaking message to the world.as well as cabernet franc destined for his rose. He remained upbeatthough. It was a good year for apples and he’s also a cider maker. Marketing of new styles and concepts can be tough but what of wineFlooding in the Sunraysia region in January and February submerged styles that were already suffering sales-wise and then lose their namesvines for days and led not only to crop loss but to fruit being downgraded altogether? How do you recover from that? That is the question beingin quality by Australia’s big wine companies. It was yet another psychological confronted by the fortified winemakers of Victoria’s north-east who, alongand financial setback for the region’s long-suffering growers. with all Aussie fortified producers, have given up the right to use European names - port, sherry, tokay - on their wines. It’s been a difficult period of With widespread botrytis, some of the state’s winemakers were expecting adjustment for everyone, especially the drinker, but young Rutherglenlaccase problems when the 2011 wines were bottled with premature winemaker Jen Pfeiffer is working on making the move from port to fortifiedbrowning of whites and poor colour in reds a possibility. Some wines red, sherry to apera and tokay to topaque as painless as possible. Herfrom the vintage may not be medium or long-term keepers. Pfeiffer Old Distillery pale dry flor is what once might have been labelled a fino sherry but now relies on the simple message that this pale, dry, But it wasn’t all bad news. The year may have started off on a less than salty-tanged “apera” relies on the flor yeast for its distinctive personality.perfect footing for some Victorian winemakers but it did get better. Coolclimate producers searching for a point of difference in the market found The wine formerly known as amontillado sherry, which owes its particularan opening with niche wines that suited the times. High alcohols, loads richness and amber colour to wood maturation, becomes a medium dryof oak were out. Lower alcohols, less oak, different grape varieties were apera but further name changes are in the wind. “We are discussing whatin. It was the year of the LDR - the light dry red - and the dry and medium names to use for our amontillado blend,” explains Pfeiffer “and one ofdry apera (formerly known as sherry) and much more. Light dry reds are the names we’ve come up with is Seriously Nutty. It’s a play not only thenot rose but reds light to medium bodied in style and singing with red taste of the dry medium apera but is in keeping with her breakthroughberry freshness and little if any oak; wines like Chapoutier’s Domaine fortified rose style called Seriously Pink. “I think this is a fairly modern andTournon 2009 Shiraz (despite the French sounding name it is Victorian), progressive approach to the new names,” she argues. Should SeriouslySorrenberg Gamay and Eldridge Estate Gamay. The latter, with the Nutty join Seriously Pink, then the pale dry flor will also come in for a namefastidious David Lloyd at the helm, took the gamay grape - the grape of change: Seriously Dry.Beaujolais - up a notch. “I have never done anything like it before,” saysLloyd of his PTG11, a blend of equal parts of pinot noir and gamay from Sounds seriously good . . .the 2011 vintage and based on a similarly blended and popular Burgundy Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 129

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 victoriasparkling Tahbilk Central Victoria riesling Coldstream Hills Reserve Viognier 2010 HHHH Yarra Valley ChardonnayBrown Brothers King Very crisp, fresh wine Montara Grampians 2010 HHHH1/2Valley Chardonnay brimming over with vibrant Riesling 2009 HHHH1/2 Golden straw colour withPinot Noir Pinot citrus/tropical fruit characters Musty herbal notes mingle subtle oak charactersMeunier NV HHHHH and balanced by a tight acid with the zesty lime aromas threaded through the“The whole package,” said structure. Needs more time and the palate shows great peachy nose. Palate showsone judge. Very complex Mount Avoca Jack Barry in the cellar. $19.50 intensity of fresh lime flair and exuberance, withgreen apple, strawberry and Pyrenees Sparkling Tahbilk Central Victoria juice flavours with a tight, excellent floral flavourbiscuity characters. Lovely Shiraz NV HHHH Marsanne 2009 HHHH minerally acid structure. $17 profile. 5+ $55.99and creamy in the mouth, Aged, leathery nose - sweet Tight, fine and elegant style McPherson Basiliskgreat residual sugar/acid and funky, with minty notes. of wine with a pleasant spicy Central Victoria St Hubertsbalance and plenty of flavour Beautifully balanced berry note to the nose and spicy/ Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 Yarra Valley Chardonnaylength. $22.90 palate with a fine and complex nutty flavours filling the finely Very floral aromatics with 2010 HHHH1/2 tannic backbone. $29 textured palate. $15.65 musky sweet elements. Beautifully harmonious andMichelini Alpine Valleys St Huberts Yarra Valley Tight and very youthful delicate chardonnay withChardonnay Pinot other white Roussanne 2010 HHHH palate with a delicate the creamy lees, toasty oak,Cuvee NV HHHH1/2 varietals & blends Smells of lime cordial with mouthful of citrus-like bright fruit and fresh aciditySoft strawberry notes to some spiciness. Lovely flavours. Lovely elegant all working well together tothe nose with slight biscuity All Saints Estate Family creamy palate - has texture style. $17.99 produce a lovely wine. $27characters. Gorgeous big Cellar Rutherglen and balance with subtle oak De Bortolimouthful of ripe strawberry Marsanne 2009 HHHH1/2 and a citrusy finish. Well- Windy Peak King Valley Indigo Wine Companyand cream flavours with Very funky, nutty, melon made wine. $29.99 Riesling 2010 HHHH Beechworth Chardonnaybalancing residual sugar and bouquet and gorgeous ripe Very pretty wine with 2008 HHHH1/2acid. $20 quince flavours with loads Mount Avoca Pyrenees honeyed citrus aromas and Interesting complexity ofBrown Brothers of oak and firm acidity. Has Fume Blanc 2009 HHHH surprisingly full palate with savoury/spicy/melon aromas.Extra Dry King Valley some lime notes coming Very appealing food wine. flavours of green apples Full and soft in the mouth,Prosecco NV HHHH through. Needs more time. Quite a smoky/oaky nose with a citrus touch - some with great fruit flavours, goodQuince-like bouquet with and a beautifully balanced sweetness. $14 acid, nice balance of oak and aslight floral notes. Spritzig 5+ $30 palate full of long, complex, John Gehrig Wines fantastic finish. 3-5 $27in the mouth, with long, Gapsted Wines Alpine oaky flavours. $23.80 King Valley Rieslinglingering, sweet fruit flavours Valleys King Valley 2008 HHHH Chambers Rosewoodand nice clean finish. $17.90 Viognier 2009 HHHH1/2 High Plains Interesting wine! Full-on Vineyards RutherglenGapsted Wines Delightfully heady aromas King Valley Sauvignon lime bouquet with floral ChardonnayKing Valley Prosecco like jasmine and ginger. Blanc 2010 HHHH hints. Sweet up-front on the 2007 HHHH1/2NV HHHH Lovely creamy palate with Promising nose; some green palate with lovely honeyed Very tight, tidy wine withSmells of freshly cut pears full-on ginger and spice peas and passionfruit. Nice citrus flavours that linger on soft, honeyed stone-fruitand has lively acidity on the flavours - almost cordial-like gooseberry/passionfruit and on. $22 characters with smart oakpalate and lingering fresh but it has elegance. $24 flavours with a nice level of to balance. Still needs morepear flavours showing a Gapsted Wines King crunchy acidity. $16 chardonnay cellaring time to reach itstouch of sweetness. Great Valley Alpine Valley Petit best. 3-5 $15aperitif. $24 Manseng 2010 HHHH Seppelt DrumborgBlue Pyrenees Vintage Vibrant green colour with Vineyard Chardonnay Brown BrothersBrut 2008 HHHH lovely nose. “Smells like a 2008 HHHHH King Valley ChardonnayCreamy red berry bouquet Cox’s Orange Pippin apple,” Toasty oak aromas laced 2010 HHHHwith some yeasty notes, said one judge. Which is with peachy fruit and some Fresh stone-fruit aromasfollowed by a light and echoed on the full, soft attractive funky elements. with fresh herbal nuanceslively, youthful palate with palate. $24 Excellent citrus flavour and delicate oak. Well-long, soft flavours and zippy Redbank Long Paddock intensity on a long, creamy integrated stone-fruit/oakacidity. $24 Central Victoria Pinot palate supported by a lovely flavours follow through onto Gris 2009 HHHH mineral acid structure. the palate. $17.90 Quite Alsatian-like and smelling of spicy poached 5+ $43.99 pears with excellent intensity of flavour. Palate has texture and balance, with a mineral acid line. $13.95130 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 victoriaGiant Steps Arthurs Sticks No 29 VineyardCreek Vineyard Yarra Select Yarra ValleyValley Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH2010 HHHH Dark and earthy nose withPale straw-coloured wine threads of ripe raspberries.with a clean lemon sherbet Palate is big and oaky butnose and nicely balanced, has good fruit weight toweighty palate with lots back it up. Just needs time.of flavour and excellentlength. 3-5 $40 5+ $45 Yarra Ridge St Huberts The Stag Sam Miranda Cellar Yarra Valley Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Door Release King Valley Seville Estate The Barber Chardonnay 2010 HHHH 2010 HHHH Rosata 2010 HHHH Yarra Valley Cabernet Lovely example of a Very good nose - it’s all earthy, Pretty pink wine smelling of Merlot 2010 HHHH subtle, cool-climate type of beetroot and raspberry-like, cherries and strawberries, Mid-weight wine with a classic chardonnay. It’s light and with perfumed elements. biscuits and flowers. Lovely claret-like nose showing leafy pretty and very well made. Velvety-smooth in the mouth, palate texture with great perfumed characters mingling “A very classy wine,” said with ripe fruit flavours. $23.99 biscuity characters. $20 with chocolaty elements and a one judge. $19.99 sweet fruit palate. $20Sam Miranda Cellar other redDoor Release King pinot noir varietals & blendsValley Chardonnay2010 HHHHNose of peaches, spices and St Huberts Yarra Valleyvanilla. Palate quite oak-driven Pinot Noir 2010 HHHHH Gapsted Wines Alpine Intriguing wine; has plenty Valleys King Valleybut has some lovely light, of oak but there is some Saperavi 2006 HHHHHpeachy fruit coming through great varietal fruit lurkingDrying finish. 3-5 $30 beneath and lovely velvety Great nose with an inky/ tannins with slight tomato cassis/blackcurrant bouquet juice-like characters bringing and dark and brooding palateGiant Steps everything together. $32.99 with a massive mouthful ofTarraford Yarra Valley flavours, serious tannins andChardonnay 2010 HHHH big hit of acid.” Has ageabilityBright, lifted aromatics on the Coombe Farm plus!” 5+ $28.50 Yarravale Reservenose and lively citrus palate Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Yarra Valleywith some oak and crisp acid 2010 HHHH Brown Brothers Tempranillo 2008 HHHHbackbone. Not complex but a Fragrances of berry fruits Victoria Tempranillo Bright red wine with nicevery good drink. $40 and cherry jam. Palate 2009 HHHH sweet and spicy red fruit lean, for now, but has good Soft, easy-drinking, characters, high acid, underlying cherry fruit. Will well-balanced wine with velvety tannins and some Mount Avoca improve with cellaring. delightful fragrances of attractive earthy characters. Pyrenees Cabernet morello cherries and Sauvignon 2009 HHHH 3-5 $25 chocolate and nice sweet/ 3-5 $33.11 savoury flavours. $17.90 Giant Steps Sexton cabernet sauvignon Bright, intense colour. Slight & blends minty element on the nose Yarra Valley Pinot Noir and acid still prominent on the 2010 HHHH Nose has a real raspberry Morris Rutherglen palate. A vibrant youth that Cinsault 2008 HHHH needs more time to reach its profile with perfumed lift. Melange of rhubarb and potential. 5+ $27.80 Nice long, soft and layered blackcurrants lift off the nose. palate with lovely meaty depth Long, lingering, lolly-like fruit Gapsted Wines and richness. 3-5 $40 flavours. Great tannins and Ballerina Canopy Mitchelton Central sour-like acidity. $19.95 King Valley Cabernet Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHHH Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Giant Steps Gladysdale Rich, oaky, old-fashioned Soft, easy-drinking style with Vineyard Yarra Valley style. Lovely leafySeville Estate Yarra Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Rutherglen Estates blackcurrant complexity savoury/spicy berry fragrancesValley Chardonnay Renaissance Rutherglen on the nose and loads of and an elegant varietal2009 HHHH Tarry aromas with a Zinfandel 2008 HHHH harmonious flavours. “Will palate with great oak/tanninLively, mandarin-like perfumed/violet-like lift. Elegant! Loads of blueberry- get even better with morebouquet layered with some Chewy in the mouth, with like fruit. “Love the spice,” time,” noted one judge. integration. 5+ $20pungent oak characters. commented one judge. HasSilky- smooth in the mouth, nicely textured palate and a good balance of acid, oak 5+ $28 Elmswood Estatewith lovely nutty/savoury attractive, mouth-coating and residual sugar $34.95flavours. $30 tannins. 3-5 $45 Reserve Yarra Valley Cabernet 2010 HHHH Lifted leafy/cassis bouquet Killara Estate Station Creek Blue Pyrenees and lovely sweet fruit palate King Valley Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH 2009 HHHH1/2 with good tannins, great 2010 HHHH Intense peppery/mulberry Youthful, deep red wine that nose and up-front varietal fruit Young and feisty, with some balance and long, lingering flavours on a grippy, tannic finish. A great wine with a needs time in the cellar. Has palate with fresh acidity and lovely choc-mint/dark fruit long life. 5+ $50 fruit sweetness. $17 aromas and a very long, raspberry aromas and ripe fragrantly earthy palate varietal fruit flavours with nice spicy nuances. 3-5 $30 with supportive tannins and balancing acidity. Needs time. 5+ $20 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 131

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 victoria Harcourt Valley Morris Rutherglen Morris CHM Rutherglen Vineyards Old Vine Shiraz 2006 HHHH Durif 2007 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHH Very Rhone-like nose; Chunky monster of a wine Very appealing black olive cherries and herbs - with a huge Cherry Ripe-like and ginger-like aromas with especially sage! Dense, nose and a massive, grippy, a peppery/floral lift - very rich, vibrant and spicy palate tannic palate with delicious complex. The palate has with great fruit. Ready for chocolaty flavours. Needs restrained spicy fruit flavours drinking now. $18.95 time. $60 and ultra-fine tannins. $35High Plains Redbank Mount Avoca Pyrenees Seppelt Benno Bendigo sweet white & fortifiedKing Valley Cabernet Fighting Flat King Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2006 HHHHSauvignon 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Smells meaty and herbal and Bright, lifted blackberry Mitchelton BlackwoodLeafy, cassis and bramble Earthy and herbal on the has nicely focused juicy fruit bouquet and soft, fleshy Park Botrytis Rieslingfruit bouquet leading onto a pristine, clean nose. Soft flavours on the long, tannic palate with oak tending to 2010 HHHHHsilky-soft palate loaded with and rich in the mouth, with palate. Quite hot. Good food dominate the juicy fruit. Gorgeous honeyed/toastysome very approachable, an intensity of ripe black wine. $27.80 Some lovely fine tannins in marmalade/orange peelrich, dark fruit flavours. $17 fruit that goes with the firm Leydens Vale Pyrenees supportive role. $55.99 bouquet and fantastic tannins. $25 Shiraz 2008 HHHH concentration of soft,shiraz blends Baileys of Glenrowan The nose has a smoky, Seppelt Mount sweet, gingerbread-like 1920’s Block Rutherglen aromatic profile and the Ida Heathcote Shiraz flavours with some lovely Shiraz 2009 HHHH palate is tight and elegant, 2006 HHHH refreshing acidity to balance Leathery/smoky style of with a lovely core of dark Dense, brooding, dark the sweetness. $20 shiraz with masses of red fruit flavours, very good acid berry aromas and great Baileys of Glenrowan berries and chocolate and and subtle oak. $12.95 concentration of varietal Founder SeriesMitchelton Crescent huge amount of nice tannins Buller Wines flavours with tightly Rutherglen LiqueurCentral Victoria Shiraz and good flavour length. $35 Langdon Rutherglen wound tannins. Just Muscat NV HHHHHMourvedre Grenache Shiraz 2009 HHHH needs more time to reach “Drop-dead gorgeous,”2009 HHHH1/2 Mount Avoca Elegant, well-made wine its best. 5+ $55.99 thought one judge. Smells ofLong, complex and quite Reserve Pyrenees with a dark and richly rose petals and raisins. Soft insavoury wine with lovely Shiraz 2008 HHHH aromatic nose and a long, durif the mouth, with rich flavoursdark tarry/spicy berry fruit, Quite a confectionery-sweet well-balanced, flavoursome extending the entire length oflong, even tannins and fruit bouquet with a dash of palate with fine, soft All Saints Estate the palate. Great example ofsome well-handled oak. Just spice, and a tannic palate tannins. $50 Rutherglen Durif this classic style. $25needs another five years in with long, savoury-like 2009 HHHH1/2 Morris Old Premiumthe cellar! $26 flavour - quite rich. $63.50 shiraz Great dark, brooding, RutherglenMcPherson Basilisk Taminick Cellars 1919 2007 & older chocolaty/blackberry nose Rare Muscat NV HHHHHCentral Victoria Series Glenrowan with a violet lift. The big, Extremely intenseShiraz Mourvedre Shiraz 2008 HHHH tannic palate is full and concoction of dark treacle,2009 HHHH1/2 Spicy chocolate bouquet spicy, with a lovely long, rancio and tea leaf aromasFloral nose with a spicy lift with fragrances of sweet savoury finish. Ready for and a superb array of fruitleading to a palate loaded cedar. Palate slightly drinking now. 5+ $25 flavours that linger onwith vibrant, peppery fruits developed and hot, with Seppelt Silverband and continue to evolve.and supported by a long, long, lingering fruit flavours Grampians Shiraz “Perfection” was onesupple tannic backbone and and some smart oak. $16 2006 HHHHH Morris Rutherglen judge’s opinion. $74.95some very good oak. $17.99 Blue Pyrenees Shiraz Rich, full-bodied, old-school Durif 2008 HHHH1/2 Morris Cellar Reserve 2008 HHHH shiraz that needs more Inky/minerally aromas Rutherglen Grandshiraz 2009/2008 Perfumed, mulberry-like time to really shine. Smells with dark plums and Liqueur Tokay NV nose and a supple and well- violets underneath, and a (500ml) HHHHH balanced berry fruit palate savoury with spicy rhubarb grippy, astringent palate “Heaven in a glass,” was nicely supported by the firm, elements. Firm, tannic with chocolaty fruit in the one judge’s comment.Harcourt Valley chewy tannins. $20 palate with intense dark fruit background and some Luscious treacle/orange peelVineyards Barbara’s very nice fruit sweetness. bouquet and an ultra-rich -Shiraz 2009 HHHHH flavours. 5+ $36.99 “Almost painfully so,” said 5+ $27.95 one judge - superb darkVery interesting style. Redbank The Anvil toffee flavour profile. $35Lovely purple colour, spicy, Beechworth Shiraz Morris Cellar Reservearomatic nose and soft 2006 HHHH1/2 All Saints Estate Family Rutherglen Grand Huge wine with fabulous Cellar Rutherglen Durif Liqueur Muscat NVand elegant palate with colour and brooding, inky 2008 HHHH1/2 (500ml) HHHHHearthy/savoury-like flavours characters sitting on top of Delightful nose of raisinsperfectly matched by the the primary fruit aromas. Inky, iodine-like nose that’s a and cold tea with a touch of Fresh, clean palate with touch jammy with floral notes, old wood. Delicious palate -tannins. 3-5 $25 lovely combo of fruit followed by a big mouthful soft and malty in the mouth, flavours with loads of with luscious, rich rancio,Harcourt Valley tannins. $52 of fruit flavours with a solid great length and lovelyVineyards Sightings tannin structure and great texture. $35Bendigo Shiraz overall length. 5+ $552009 HHHHWell-made wine with itslovely spicy and savoury noseshowing a floral touch andnice varietal flavour density ona smooth, fleshy palate. $20132 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

victoria Discover a unique world of wine storageMorris Old Premium Morris Black LabelRutherglen Rare Liqueur Rutherglen Liqueur YEARSTokay NV HHHHH Muscat NV HHHH1/2 NE STORAIntensely dark and chocolaty Pretty, floral fragrances withnose with hints of cold tea. hints of fresh candied peel. Call us on 0412 521 226Tremendous intensity and Lush and soft in the mouth,complexity of flavour. “It’s with spicy, heady fruit We’ll give you all the information you need and postalmost like a single malt,” flavours. Great complexity you our latest brochure. Or, if you prefer you can find moresuggested one judge. $74.95 and length. $14.95 detailed information on cellaring wine and all the options available by visting www.spiralcellars.com.auAll Saints Estate Taminick Cellars OFRutherglen Glenrowan Liqueur WI Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 133Grand Muscat NV Muscat NV HHHH1/2 30(500ml) HHHHH Rich, raisined nose with GEFresh and elegant style with touches of roses andgorgeous rose petal and musk leading to a luscious,raisin bouquet and some flavoursome, alcoholicwonderful flavours that palate that’s super-sweetburst open on the palate and and soft, with delightfulcontinue in the mouth long rancio characters. $15after the wine has gone. $65 All Saints EstateBaileys of Glenrowan Rutherglen GrandWinemaker Selection Tokay NV HHHH1/2Rutherglen Rare Muscat Nice nutty nose and “aNV HHHHH palate that really delivers”.Big and exquisitely luscious Great length and depth ofwine with a somewhat delicious flavours open upsubdued, raisin-like beautifully in the middle andbouquet but loads of nutty/ mingle with lingering ranciotreacley flavours. Lovely characters. $65weight and texture and a Morris Rutherglennice drying finish. $75 Vintage 2003 HHHH1/2Morris Old Premium Inky, chocolaty and pepperyRutherglen Rare Tawny nose with complex spirit andNV HHHH1/2 loads of very rich, chocolatyIntensely rich bouquet flavours - still surprisinglyshowing touches of allspice youthful, with “at least aand very nice VA complexity. decade to go”, according toLoads of intense flavours one judge. $20fill the mouth. Great texture Morris Cellarand overall length. $45 Reserve RutherglenMorris Cellar Reserve Grand AmontilladoRutherglen Grand NV (500ml) HHHHTawny NV HHHH1/2 Fresh, bright, zesty, citrusA great tawny with lifted peel bouquet with biscuityfloral/caramel/dried fruit notes, and searing nutty/aromas and a rich, well- dried citrus peel flavourbalanced palate with intensity. $35lingering flavours and lovely John Gehrig Winesrancio characters that kick in King Valley Liqueurmidway. Delightful! $35 Muscat NV HHHHMorris Classic Touch of old wood darknessRutherglen Liqueur on the raisined/caramellyMuscat NV HHHH1/2 nose. Loads of complexVery pretty nose - smells flavours with lovely viscosityfragrant and raisin-like. Palate and alcohol heat. $45offers a solid mouthful of Baileys of Glenrowanintense, sweet, citrusy Classic Topaqueflavours mingling with great Glenrowan NV HHHHweight of toffee and raisined Interesting cold tea andcharacters. $19.95 rhubarb aromas and a powerful muscatel and citrus peel flavour profile. Nice level of residual sugar sweetness. $75

Bloodwood property in spring.new sowuatlhes THE BEST WINES OF 2011 CONTENTS Includes: Sparkling, Other White Varietals & Blends, Riesling/Traminer, Semillon & Blends, Chardonnay, Other Red Varietals & Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends, Shiraz Blends, Shiraz, Sweet White & Fortified.

HUNTER MAKES MOST OFUNSEASONAL WEATHER The New South Wales year in review, by Winsor DobbinT H E H U N T E R V A L L E Y managed to dodge the harvest rainfall and the support of the regions, the winemakers and all the stakeholders. The Hunter is showcasing its strength to an international audience with itsthat has plagued several recent vintages and the end result was what shiraz, chardonnay and semillon. The rise and rise of cool climate wineslocal winemakers described as “a sensational vintage” – with early release is being seen with the substantial growth of sales from the Orange andsemillons looking particularly strong and positive reports regarding shiraz. Canberra district regions while the Riverina continues to be a leadingThe Hunter was an exception, however, with many other NSW regions region in both NSW and Australia, accounting for a large proportion ofsuffering from the effects of above-average rainfall and cooler ripening the national crush.”conditions. Fruit was generally picked later, with higher acids and lowerbaumes, with whites generally faring better than reds. “We dodged a bullet While most figures were positive, Darren de Bortoli of Riverina-basedwith regard to harvest-time rain - and it really was a cracker of a vintage,” De Bortoli Wines, one of the country’s largest family-owned wine groups,said Andrew Thomas from Thomas Wines. criticised the proliferation of private labels across the nation’s supermarket shelves, saying pressure exerted by Woolworths and Coles along with the high “Overall, 2011 has produced slightly riper than average semillons across the Australian dollar and a growing grape surplus were threatening industry profits.region showing some wonderful early-drinking appeal, but the best examples De Bortoli said there was less shelf space for branded wines as supermarkethave that tight structure and linear acidity required for bottle-ageing potential.” home-brand labels were being discounted. “You have got import pressure kicking in and the (supermarket) chains being more aggressive in the way Higher rainfall during the growing season was a mixed blessing they are managing the stock-keeping units they sell.throughout the state, with potential production increases being offset bylosses though increased disease pressures. Despite this, tonnages in the Difficult trading conditions and the wine glut were pushing winemakers toRiverina were the second-highest on record. Most other regions, however, supply wine at greatly reduced prices that eventually found its way into privatesuffered reductions in production, although it is expected NSW production labels. It’s tough because of their (supermarkets) approach to private labelsoverall will be down only slightly on 2010. Canberra and Orange producers and the fact there are other wine companies being very aggressive in thatexpected to make some excellent wines with characters reflecting the area - someone has to supply wine to private labels.”prolonged growing season. In Mudgee, Robert Oatley Vineyards viticulturistSam Hayne reported that unseasonal rainfall in September-December The death of David Clarke, owner of Poole’s Rock, hit the Hunter hard, withwas followed by a 10-week window of dry, warm weather in the lead up to the business purchased by the neighbouring Hunter wine estate Audreyharvest. The December rain resulted in an outbreak of some downy mildew Wilkinson, owned by Brian Agnew. “Poole’s Rock was David’s passionbut overall chardonnay and shiraz shone. and he was concerned that the brand, the wines and most importantly the team join a like-minded family company,’ said David’s wife, Jane Clarke. Ben Crossing from Angullong in Orange reported vintage started about “Poole’s Rock and Audrey Wilkinson have similar values, a shared ethosthree weeks later than in 2010 and he commented on challenges caused and commitment to quality wine and brand integrity.” James Agnew, generalby a wet spring, cool summer and rain during vintage with disease pressure manager of Audrey Wilkinson, said: “David’s deep commitment to Poole’sfrom downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis. “Despite the challenges Rock and its quality portfolio of wines and his ethics set a benchmark forthrown at us we are really pleased with the quality of the fruit,” Crossing said. our industry, one that the Agnew family intend to uphold.” James Agnew assumes the role of general manager of Poole’s Rock, and confirmed NSW Minister for Primary Industries Katrina Hodgkinson announced new retention of both the Poole’s Rock and Cockfighter’s Ghost brands.Nielsen data revealing that since the launch of the government /industry Chief winemaker Usher Tinkler will continue in his role at Poole’s Rock,partnership behind the NSW Wine Strategy in February 2008, sales of responsible for the two brands he has nurtured for the past seven years,bottled NSW wine within NSW have dramatically increased from $52.4 while Jeff Byrne will continue as chief winemaker at Audrey Wilkinson.million a year to a record yearly sales figure of $86.3 million - a 64 per cent Lowe Wines of Mudgee led the way as organic production continued toincrease in just three years. Mike De Iuliis, chair of the NSW Wine Strategy, grow from a small base with the Lowe 2009 Zinfandel winning the awardsaid: “The partnership with the NSW government has been critical in the for best organic wine in the NSW Wine Awards. The wine was one of 30achievement of these great results and we know with continued hard work organic wines entered in the awards, a substantial increase on previousthis growth is here to stay.” years. “This is an extremely rewarding trophy,” said winemaker and owner David Lowe, president of the NSW Wine Industry Association. Swinging Bridge’s Tom Ward said:“It’s fantastic to see the continuedstrong performance of NSW wines both on and off premise. This istestament to the brand strategy of the NSW Wine Industry Association Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 135

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 new south walessparkling riesling/traminer Arrowfield Estate Show Reserve Hunter ValleyMoppity Vineyards Pokolbin Estate Semillon 2009 HHHHReserve Hilltops Hunter Valley Riesling Fresh, lemony bouquetSparkling Shiraz 2010 HHHH with hints of vanilla andNV HHHH Fresh lemony/citrus nose toast. Lovely crisp acidityPretty fruit nose and very with a spicy floral lift and on a lemony palate withpleasant, slightly sweet, good earthy varietal fruit excellent flavour intensity.palate. Very creamy texture,with well-balanced bright 5+ $30fruit flavours and acidlength. $59.99 intensity and structure on Tempus Two Zenith a palate showing zingyother white acidity. 3-5 $28 Hunter Valley Semillonvarietals & blends Two Rivers Stones 2007 HHHH Throw Hunter Valley Good example of whatTertini Reserve Tertini Southern Semillon 2010 HHHH1/2 an aged semillon canSouthern Highlands Highlands Riesling Bright green wine with offer. Seamless balanceArneis 2010 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH excellent juicy varietal fruit of varietal fruit and toastyDelicate complexity to a Ripe and citrusy on the characters showing perfect development with excellentnose showing lovely floral nose and tight and lean in ripeness with some piercing length. 3-5 $29.99and apple-like aromas. the mouth with a lovely acidity to match the fruitFresh, spicy, fragrant, floral intensity of delicate orange- intensity. Offers great ageing Tyrrell’s Wines Hungerford Hillintensity on the palate like flavours balanced by a potential. 5+ $16 Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillonwith hints of apple. Great crisp acid spine. $35 Stevens Hunter Valley 2010 HHHHstructure and texture. $35 Chalkers Crossing Audrey Wilkinson Semillon 2007 HHHH Richer style with a toasty/Ross Hill Hilltops Riesling Winemakers Selection Honeyed lemon bouquet lemon nose with hints ofPinnacle Series Orange 2010 HHHH Hunter Valley Semillon with a toasty lift, and linseed-like characters. Well-Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH Very lifted, ripe, honeysuckle 2010 HHHH1/2 excellent fresh varietal fruit balanced palate with powerfulLovely characters of honey bouquet, followed by a Lovely toasty/lemon aromas focus on the rich and creamy flavour concentration.and butterscotch evident palate exhibiting a nice with a spicy, herbal lift, and palate - lots of attractive Excellent! 5+ $25on a nose with a pretty, balance and intensity of a lovely long, complex and spiciness. 3-5 $33.99spicy lift. Good varietal fruit lemon/lime flavours. $18 very flavoursome palate withdefinition on the dry, well- excellent structure and bright, Mount View Estate chardonnaybalanced palate. $30 fresh acidity. 5+ $25 Reserve Hunter ValleyCoolangatta Estate De Bortoli Semillon 2011 HHHHSouthern Coast Sacred Hill Traminer Tyrrell’s Wines Belford Soft and savoury, with lime Tyrrell’s WinesSavagnin 2010 HHHH Riesling 2010 HHHH Single Vineyard juice and lemon grass fruit Moon Mountain HunterLively, very well made wine Perfumed, floral bouquet Hunter Valley Semillon characters with muted Valley Chardonnaywith guava-like characters and very flavoursome candy- 2006 HHHH1/2 spiciness. Excellent balance 2010 HHHHHon both nose and palate and sweet palate with rose Great wine to either be and great palate length. Lovely vibrant nose withsome lovely herbal traces. oil-like characters. Great enjoyed now or cellared for honeyed complexity andGreat palate structure. $22 example of this blend. $7.50 another time.Lovely rich, 5+ $25 balanced semillon with delicate citrus fruit and great herbal hints. Elegant zingy acidity $33.99 varietal fruit on the palate, semillon & blends with excellent wood balance and fine, fresh acidity. 3-5 $19.99 The Wine Society From Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Coolangatta Estate Semillon 2009 HHHH Tyrrell’s Wines Shoalhaven Coast Citrus fruit bouquet with Belford Hunter Valley Semillon 2003 HHHHH toasty notes developing. Chardonnay Great example of an Lovely palate structure 2009 HHHH1/2 aged semillon, with with plenty of varietal fruit Peach, nectarine and nougat gorgeous honeyed/toasty flavours and balancing aromas lift off the nose and development showing a acidity. 5+ $12.99 the long and complex palate hint of lanolin. Lovely palate has a seamless integration of balance and finesse with Tempus Two Zenith Mistletoe Reserve spicy varietal fruit and elegant masses of smooth, ripe Hunter Valley Semillon wood - quite a lot of it! $33.99 citrus flavours. $27 2009 HHHH Bimbadgen Estate Some good linseed/lemon- Hunter Valley Semillon Robert Oatley Mudgee Signature McDonalds like characters on the nose, 2010 HHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Road Vineyard Hunter and rich, mouthfilling, Minerally lime aromas Old-fashioned style with Valley Semillon varietal fruit flavours with with some nice toastiness. good varietal nose of melons 2007 HHHH1/2 lovely textured elements. Lean and well-balanced, and peaches and lovely Nose of bright, honeyed, fresh citrus palate with rich palate with seamless lemon aromas layered with 5+ $19.99 good length and intensity. balance between fruit and attractive toasty complexity Cellar it. 5+ $24 oak. $25.99 and leading onto a long, Pokolbin Estate Ken lingering, lemon zest palate Bray Hunter Valley De Bortoli Sacred Hill showing great fruit weight. Semillon 2009 HHHH Semillon Sauvignon Lovely complexity of lemon, Blanc 2010 HHHH 3-5 $40 toast and linseed aromas Lifted, cut-grass aromas and rich marmalade-on- with delicate floral nuances. toast-like flavours. Great Beautifully structured now or keep for further palate with bright, aromatic, cellaring. 3-5 $25 lemony flavours. Well-made wine. $7.50136 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

new south walesQueens Pinch Vineyard Ross Hill Pinnacle SeriesMudgee Chardonnay Orange Chardonnay2010 HHHH 2010 HHHHNose opens up to lovely Lovely big, butteryspicy/honeyed characters, chardonnay with well-definedfollowed by fresh and lively melon/oak aromas andvarietal fruit flavours on a great varietal fruit flavourswell-structured palate. $15 seamlessly balanced with acid and wood. $30Hungerford Hill James EstateTumbarumba The Estate Hunter ValleyChardonnay 2009 HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHHNose not giving much Quite a flinty/vinous nose,away, but opens up to a leading to a nicely balancedwell-constructed palate with peach palate with good oakexcellent balance and great integration and concentratedsavoury elements mixed minerally acidity. $16with stone-fruit. $28Mistletoe Hunter Valley Wild Oats MudgeeChardonnay 2009 HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHHRich, honeyed, melon Lightly perfumed nose withbouquet and great finesse a spicy lift. Very appealingto a palate with very good fig, cashew and stone-fruitpineapple-like fruit and characters on the palatewith oak integration adding and just the right amount ofcomplexity. $20 oak. $18.99 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 137

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 new south walesother red Centennial Vineyards Queens Pinch Vineyard Prince of Orangevarietals & blends Reserve Unfiltered Select Mudgee Cabernet Orange Shiraz Viognier Southern Highlands Sauvignon 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH Cabernet Merlot Very well made wine Savoury nose has spiciness 2008 HHHH1/2 dominated by some lovely building with some air. Shiraz Spicy oak dominates the nose, varietal fruit and should age obvious on a palate with which shows traces of licorice. well. Minty/cassis nose and good use of oak. All it needs Lovely big, rich palate - quite soft, well-balanced palate. is another 3-5 years! $22 complex, with good fruity impression, nice firm tannins 5+ $24 and interesting savoury Centennial Vineyards elements. 3-5 $30 Reserve Southern Highlands Cabernet Shaw Vineyard Estate Sauvignon 2008 HHHH Gardners Ground Reserve Merriman Savoury style with good oak Organic Canowindra Canberra District characters on the nose and Merlot 2008 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon a tight and complex palate Loads of fruit all the way 2008 HHHH1/2 showing more fruit than the from beginning to end, Good purple hues, appealing nose suggests. 3-5 $35 with oak evident but minty varietal fruit and some well-integrated, creating nice chocolaty notes with Prince Of Orange a pleasing effect. “Good vanillin oak. Smells inviting. Orange Cabernet now - will get even better.” “Would be great with lamb,” Sauvignon 2005 HHHH suggested one judge. $45 Soft, well-aged cabernet with 5+ $19.99 appealing Violet Crumble-like De Bortoli Windowrie Estate aromas and a medium-bodied, Deen De Bortoli Vat 1 The Mill Hilltops fruity palate with a nice tannic Durif 2009 HHHH Cabernet Merlot grip. 3-5 $22 Fresh plum aromas with 2010 HHHH1/2Ross Hill Pinnacle layers of fragrant, spicy oak, Nice blend with good purple Brangayne of OrangeSeries Orange Cabernet followed by a long, hugeFranc 2009 HHHH1/2 and well-balanced palate hues and a pleasant oak/ Tristan Orange De Beaurepaire rich with flavour. Good food mint/berry bouquet. Palate Cabernet Shiraz Leopold Mudgee ShirazExcellent varietal expression wine. $12.90 surprisingly soft, with good Merlot 2009 HHHH Viognier 2009 HHHHon the nose; lifted Pleasant, savoury bouquetraspberries with minty/ cabernet sauvignon fruit impact and powerful Nose rich with vanilla, fruit with a tinge of viognier/ & blends tannins that build to the and some earthy/chocolaty apricot fruit, and chocolatyeucalypt touches. Much the finish. 3-5 $16.99 nuances. Soft, appealing shiraz flavours nicelysame happening on a palate De Beaurepaire supported by the viognier.with great length of drying Victor Mudgee fruit flavours with smoky Good light red style. $28 Cabernet Sauvignon overtones and warmingtannins. Good cellaring 2006 HHHH1/2 alcohol. 3-5 $30potential. 5+ $35 Tight, clean and slightly subdued nose with some niceCoolangatta Estate aged characters developing. Shot in the Dark shirazShoalhaven Coast Palate still amazingly youthful, Cabernet ShirazTannat 2009 HHHH with long, well-balanced, 2010 HHHH Binbilla Wines GoodAttractive purple/violet hues licorice-like flavours. Give it Vibrant, rich and well-made Friday Hilltops Shirazwith low-key but complex another 4-6 years! $28 wine with leafy berry fruits, 2009 HHHHHaromas. Palate very austere rich tannins, good oak and Crimson wine with velvetybut lots of fruit lurks beneath attractive minty characters berry and chocolate bouquetand will show up with age. threaded through. $9.99 with slight savoury notes. Great, rich varietal fruit 5+ $35 shiraz blends expression on a palate carried by some lovelyCoolangatta Estate Cumulus Wines Rolling Centennial Vineyards tannins. “Good all-roundShoalhaven Coast Central Ranges Cabernet Reserve Southern drink,” said one judge. $25Tempranillo 2009 HHHH Merlot 2008 HHHH1/2 Highlands ShirazAttractive oaky aromas Good style with spicy/earthy Viognier 2007 HHHHH Hungerford Hillwith some pomegranate bouquet showing a hint Riper style but still youthful, Fishcage Southern Newelements. Palate projects of licorice and some berry with a few years left in South Wales Shirazexcellent varietal fruit fruits. Big, solid, cranberry- it yet. The nose shouts 2009 HHHHHflavours and finishes long like palate that has balance, of raspberries with slightand firm. $35 weight and length. Drinking smoky overtones and well now. $17.99 the palate offers loads ofMoppity Vineyards flavour, great texture and Colour and nose showHilltops Merlot plenty of length. $30 promise and substance.2009 HHHH Smells of plums, cherriesBig, powerful, ripe and oak. Loads of complexitymerlot - very tannic at the Ross Hill Pinnacle on a palate that’s rich withmoment. “Give it 10 years,” Series Orange Cabernetsuggested one judge. Lovely Sauvignon 2009 HHHH fruit flavours. Will agemix of berry fruit and oak beautifully but is also goodcharacters. $24.99 Eucalypt-dominated nose now! 5+ $17.99 and warm palate with powerful varietal flavours and good oak interest. “Would be great with beef,” thought one judge. 5+ $35138 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 new south wales Pig in the House Audrey Wilkinson Moppity Vineyards Gardners Ground Wines Cowra Shiraz The Lake Reserve Reserve Hilltops Shiraz Organic Canowindra 2010 HHHHH Hunter Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH A consumers’ wine that’s 2009 HHHH Solid, dark, chocolaty shiraz Nose still quite closed but all fruit. Rich, lifted raspberry Older, leathery style with with good firm tannin some attractive fruit just aromas with smoky overtones slight vegetative character support. Nice fresh berry starting to peek through. and a palate that’s open on the nose and a powerful aromas and crispness on the Dark and chocolaty on the and fresh, with surprisingly palate with good fruit and a palate. $59.99 palate, with some alcohol good length and firm, grippy lot of wood. 5+ $60 heat on the finish. $19.99 tannins. 3-5 $25 Montrose Mudgee Black Shiraz 2009 HHHH sweet white & fortified Moppity Vineyards Lovely mix of red fruit Lock & Key Mudgee aromas with subtle oaky Saddler’s Creek Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 notes. Youthful palate - Botrytis Supreme Oaky nose but with subtle plenty of berry fruit flavours Semillon 2008 HHHHH raspberry fruit underneath and appropriate use of oak. Excellent example of style. and also raspberry flavours Tannic end. 3-5 $28.99 Very complex and smelling with a spicy lift. Tight, firm of quinces, apricot jam and youthful palate. $14.99 Centennial Vineyards and citrus rind, with long, Woodside Orange intense concentration of Swinging Bridge Shiraz 2009 HHHH apricot and toffee flavours. Central Ranges Shiraz Deep crimson wine with Great wine! $36 2009 HHHH1/2 confectionery fruit nose and Lou Miranda EstateRoss Hill Vibrant, rich-red tones big, ripe, fruit palate. A bit LeOne Riverina BotrytisPinnacle Series Orange tending to purple, with ripe of heat coming from the Semillon 2009 HHHH1/2Shiraz 2009 HHHHH red berry aromas and loads alcohol. One for lovers of Fresh, vibrant muscatReeks of raspberries and has of varietal expression on Mistletoe Hunter Valley blockbusters! 5+ $23 aromas and nicely balancedsubtle oaky notes. Very rich the palate. Good use of oak. Reserve Pokolbin palate with lovely citrusyand long shiraz fruit flavours Well-balanced and well-made Shiraz 2009 HHHH Clearview Estate Mudgee flavours and good level ofthat finish firm and tannic wine. 3-5 $19.95 Sweet berry bouquet with Shiraz 2009 HHHH acidity. Refreshing drink for awith heat from the alcohol. a minty lift and dash of Clean, fresh, lifted berry warm summer’s day. $19.95Age needed but you can drink Mount View Estate pepper. Similar characters bouquet with good dollop of De Bortoli Emerinow and enjoy. 5+ $35 Hunter Valley Shiraz on a nicely layered palate oak, and up-front shiraz fruit on Moscato NV HHHH 2010 HHHH1/2 with balancing acidity and a long, well-balanced palate. Intense apricot/honeysuckle Gorgeous intensity of sweet tannins. $65 Made for early drinking. $20 bouquet, and complex palate licorice and blackcurrant Tyrrell’s Wines with excellent golden toffee/ aromas with a dash of Vat 9 Hunter Valley Moppity Vineyards lemon curd flavour length pepper, and plenty of ripe, Shiraz 2009 HHHH Reserve Hilltops Shiraz and concentration. $13 bright, sweet berry flavours Fragrances of violets mingle 2008 HHHH Burnbrae Mudgee with soft tannins and a long, with red fruits. Simple Surprisingly minty nose with Tawny NV HHHH drying finish. 5+ $22 varietal flavours fill the smoky/earthy overtones. Lovely rich rancio notes on mouth and are supported by Lots of soft fruit flavours the nose, and a velvety- Glandore Hunter Valley soft oak and sweet tannins. on a palate with warming smooth, well-integrated, Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 alcohol and a firm finish. sweet raisined palate. Has Dense crimson red colour, 3-5 $90.99 length and body. $25 lovely big, ripe berry fruit 5+ $59.99 aromas and long, intense, berry fruit palate with bright, Burnbrae Mudgee spicy notes and some Shiraz 2007 HHHH attractive savoury elements. Earthy/tobacco bouquet and a palate that’s firming up 3-5 $25 nicely with age and showing good length and intensity RidgeView Hunter Valley of rich fruit with subtle oak. Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Bright red wine with attractive 5+ $28 earthy fruit aromas and good varietal fruit depth on a savoury palate with balancing STAR RATINGS  oak, a good line of acid and a nice spicy lift. 3-5 $25 Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofRobert Stein excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.Reserve Mudgee Shiraz Wyndham Estate Black Cumulus Wines All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry2009 HHHHH Cluster Hunter Valley Rolling Central Ranges professionals and are compared in peerSubtle wine with elegant Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHHH classes by three judges.intensity of fruit showing a Subtle, perfumed aromas Nose has oak sitting on top CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,slight green edge and some mingling with red fruit and of ripe berry fruits. Seamless a major mail-order business.lovely chocolaty elements. sweet oak. Finely structured balance and satisfying length CD Cellar door price.The oak is quite evident but palate with powerful fruit of fruit/oak flavours. CDO Cellar door only.it has the fruit to carry it. and sweet oak and some “A prosciutto wine,” SO Sold out. lovely spicy characters. $65 suggested one judge. $17.99 $N/A Price not available at time of printing. 3-5 $50  Contact information pg 174. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 139

Milbrook winery.waeustsetrranlia THE BEST WINES OF 2011 CONTENTS Includes: Other White Varietals & Blends, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Semillon & Blends, Riesling, Chardonnay, Other Red Varietals, Cabernet Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz Blends, Shiraz.

INVESTMENT PAYS OFF The West Australian year in review, by Mike ZekulichIT’S HARD TO IMAGINE A BROADER grin in the WA wine blanc and pinot noir would be the highlights. This was despite the pinot being a little riper than he would have liked with the alcohol levels on the higher side.industry in 2011 than that of Allan Erceg. This is because his 2010 “In a hot year, the loss of acidity can be a worry,” he said.Mandoon Estate Shiraz – from its first vintage and selling for $22 – wontwo trophies at the Swan Valley and Regional Winemakers Association Summing up 2011, winemaking consultant Bill Crappsley – in his first yearannual show for best dry red and best from class in what is traditionally an as president of the WA Wine Press Club – believes 2011 will prove a “fantasticextremely tough sector, if not the toughest, of the table wines. Undaunted year across the board” for the WA industry. “We had a dream vintage after aby continued difficult industry times because of severe marketing stress succession of good years,” he said. “I have seen a lot of really good shirazresulting in fruit unpicked, vines grubbed and wines not made, Erceg, while the cabernets from Margaret River look sensational.”59, was determined to become involved, purchasing a property on thebanks of the Swan River as his base, the Mandoon name adopted from Said Ross Pamment, senior winemaker at Houghton, WA’s biggest producer:the Aboriginal meaning “place of trees”. It is also a place of history for it “I believe the Great Southern will prove outstanding for reds while the whitesdates back to 1827 when identified by Swan River colony pioneer Captain are good without being great. Despite the heat we did not have the spikes.”James Stirling, and was once part of Queen Victoria’s 1840 500ha landgrant to the colony’s first Surveyor General, John Septimus Roe, on which Winemakers dealt with a state harvest of some 70,000 tonnes, a slighthe established Sandalford Wines. increase on 2010’s 67,000 tonnes. During the year: Mandoon includes 100-year-old vines while it sources other prime fruit * Houghton – Australia’s third oldest operating winery behind Wyndhamfrom around the state’s main growing areas, including the former Agriculture Estate and Olive Far (also from WA) – celebrated its 175th year.Department research station Bramley Estate at Margaret River. Ercegmigrated from his native Croatia in 1959 with the family, quickly buying into * Margaret River received a boost when Cullen’s award-winning Dianathe Swan, inspired by the big local Croatian community and a love of wine Madeline cabernet sauvignon was featured on the wine list of thefrom homeland roots. But it was hardly an inspiring start. The family home sumptuous six-star Four Seasons George V Paris hotel, which boastswas a storage shed. Now a property developer with extensive interests, stunning views of the Eiffel Tower, as new figures reveal the French areErceg has invested $12 million into Mandoon with a vision for another $20 buying thousands of litres of wine from WA’s South West.million in a new cellar door facility, two restaurants and a micro brewery.Their visitors will sit in air-conditioned comfort, certainly needed in the very * International Chinese judge Dr Qiu Diwen, officiating at the Qantashot summers much of WA and the Swan Valley had in 2011. Wine Show in Mt Barker, believes WA wine producers could sell more to China by using the strategies of French winemakers. He said the French The conditions led to an early vintage start and one that had its surprises promoted their culture through wine promotion and information websitesfor Paul Boulden, Sandalford chief winemaker. “Our Margaret River whites in Chinese, French food and wine festivals, wine education conducted incame in with a rush but that did not happen with the reds even though Chinese, collaboration with top agricultural universities and investment inthey started early,” he said. “It reminded me very much of 2007. The local wine companies. Australia, he said, had a lot of offer with its 200-yearvintage strengths have been more the fuller bodied wines such as the of winemaking history. But it must also produce wines that not only offeredchardonnay and cabernet sauvignon – and especially the shiraz. The the traditional sunshine in the glass but which also emphasised the varietallighter bodied whites did not develop the grassy, herbaceous aromatic and regional characteristics – like the French terroir concept – of their wines.qualities we often see in a moderate, cooler year.” “While price is a key driver at the low end, there is also a strong market for premium wines used for special occasions and gifts where price is not such Despite the heat, the Swan Valley always seems to produce its share an issue but good packaging is,” he said.of quality wines and 2011 was no exception. John Griffiths, president ofthe Swan Valley and Regional Winemakers Association says the vintage * After 21 years, the popular annual spring in the (Swan) Valley festival was axedresulted in early quick ripening of flavoursome, disease-free fruit. “The amid claims it had become an “adult schoolies” event, ruining the reputation oftrick with the whites was being able to pick at the right time so the fruit the prime area. The festival created to promote the region’s food and wines haswas not over ripe,” he said. “Those who did made good sound wines in the been marred by alcohol-fuelled incidents and antisocial behaviour.fuller style. But it really was a red year especially for shiraz and fortifieds.” * Former Australian test and one day cricketer and beer boss Graeme Wood Vintage at southern producer Howard Park was over before Easter for the quit as chief executive of the WA Cricket Association to take up the top post atfirst time in 25 years. Principal Jeff Burch predicted chardonnay, sauvignon Fosters spin off Treasury Wine Estate in WA. Wood said the move represented a fresh challenge after five years at the helm of WA cricket. Previously he had spent 17 years with Foster Group, including six as general manager of Carlton and United Breweries in WA. Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 141

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 western australiaother white sauvignon blanc Palandri The Estates semillon & blends Wills Domainvarietals & blends Western Australia Margaret River Evans and Tate Sauvignon Blanc Alkoomi Wandoo Semillon 2009 HHHHCapel Vale Debut Metricup Road Margaret Semillon 2010 HHHH Frankland River Savoury meaty/mushroomyWestern Australia River Sauvignon Blanc Attractive lemony aromas Semillon 2005 HHHHH bouquet and soft, well-Verdelho 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 with a lovely floral lift, and Beautifully aged nose smells balanced and slightlyVery good wine that shows Pungent, tinned asparagus a well-balanced and very of butterscotch and creme developed palate with lovelythe best aspects of the nose with obvious green flavoursome fruit/oak palate caramel. Plenty of character mouthfeel and fresh lemonyvariety - it’s punchy and bean-like nuances. Lovely with a long, lingering acid on the palate - wonderful acidity. $25flavoursome and smelling fresh palate - vibrant and finish. $22 flavour intensity underscoredand tasting like rockmelon well-balanced, with good Watershed Shades with a line of crisp citrus acid. rieslingand ripe peaches. Some flavour intensity and lovely Margaret River Ageing very well. $34.76great acidity. $17.95 creamy texture. $22.99 Sauvignon Blanc Tassell Park Wines Howard ParkWestern Range Wines Matilda’s Vineyard Semillon 2010 HHHH Private Bin Great Southern RieslingJulimar Western Western Australia Citrus blossom nose with a Margaret River 2010 HHHHHAustralia Verdelho Sauvignon Blanc slight floral/feijoa-like lift. Tight, Semillon Sauvignon Very serious style with2010 HHHH 2010 HHHH1/2 well-balanced gooseberry Blanc 2010 HHHH reserved, flinty/citrusyWell-made, tart, tight varietal Pungent nose with an fruit palate with savoury Smells like a vanilla custard bouquet showing a lovelywith bright, lifted citrus and amazingly lively lift, leading to background and nicely with a nice dash of lime. scented lift. Very long,honeysuckle aromas and a a zingy fruit bomb of a palate balancing acidity. $16.95 Nicely textured palate with very tight, very good,long, fine and flavoursome underscored by crisp, lively Harewood Estate intense fruit flavours and flavoursome slatey palate.citrus palate. $23.50 acid. Lovely example of a Great Southern subtle oaky nuances. $28 Just needs more time toMillbrook Winery youthful sauvignon blanc. $25 Sauvignon Blanc Fraser Gallop Estate really shine. 5+ $30Viognier 2009 HHHH Windows Estate Semillon 2010 HHHH Margaret RiverBig, up-front varietal that is Margaret River Very good style; fresh, lively Semillon Sauvignon Capel Vale Whisperingfull, ripe and very rich, with Sauvignon Blanc and well balanced. Quite Blanc 2010 HHHH Hill Mount Barkera lovely unctuous, visceral 2010 HHHH herbal and grassy on the Earthy bouquet with a Riesling 2010 HHHHHtexture and exhibiting some Fragrances of green nose, with a lovely, well- slight toasty note, and a Real classic with plentyalcohol heat. $21.95 capsicum and lemons with structured citrus, lime and full-flavoured and very lively of ageing potential. VeryMillbrook Winery varietal pungency. Lively basil palate. $19.50 fruit palate showing loads of persistent floral/lime blossomLimited Release and light in the mouth Knee Deep Margaret character. $22 aromas with excellent punchPerth Hills Viognier and tasting of citrus fruit, River Sauvignon Blanc Fraser Gallop Estate of fruit intensity on the2009 HHHH with more of that pungent Semillon 2010 HHHH Parterre Margaret River palate, balanced by crispReal persistence and character. $22 Gorgeous nose - all limes Semillon Sauvignon acidity. Put it away for fiveintensity of warm, musky Deep Woods Estate and mandarins - with basil- Blanc 2010 HHHH years or more. $32.95apricot and ripe peach Margaret River like notes leading onto a Very lifted fragrances ofvarietal fruit. Lovely visceral Sauvignon Blanc fresh, lifted citrus palate peaches and nectarines, Trevelen Farmmouthfeel with balancing 2010 HHHH with more of the herbal with a fresh and lively palate Great Southern Rieslingphenolics. $42 Delicate, herbal-like nose notes showing up. $22 showing subtle, crusty- 2002 HHHH1/2 with bright, lifted aromatics. Stella Bella bread nuances wrapped in Still amazingly fresh andSilkwood Wines Good flow of steely Skuttlebutt Margaret the sweet fruit flavours. $35 offering very good drinking.Little Bitch Pemberton gooseberry flavours along River Sauvignon Blanc Barton Jones The Lovely toasty honeyed bottle-Sparkling Pinot the entire length of the Semillon 2010 HHHH Brilliant Cut Geographe aged characters starting toChardonnay 2009 HHHH textured palate. $20 Fresh, lively wine with Semillon Sauvignon cover the fruit with soft, richLovely fine bead and very subtle, fragrant floral Blanc 2009 HHHH aromatics. Still has plenty ofgood, light citrusy nose. sauvignon blanc bouquet. Palate a great Nicely developing savoury/ acidity left. 1-2 $35Fresh, crisp and flavoursome semillon marriage between the fruit earthy nose and lively palatepalate sitting in the greener and acid, with a nice oily with excellent flavour length Poachers Ridge Louis’send of the spectrum. $21 Leeuwin Estate mouthfeel. $19 and balance. Good food Block Great Southern Art Series Margaret Warner Glen Estate wine for drinking soon. $21 Riesling 2009 HHHH River Sauvignon Blanc Margaret River Brookland Valley Big lift of lime aromas, Semillon 2010 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Verse 1 Margaret River followed by a palate that’s Stunning wine with a really Semillon 2009 HHHH Semillon Sauvignon austere but exhibits good lovely nose that smells like Sweaty, pungent nose; Blanc 2010 HHHH fruit flavour intensity to a creme brulee with subtle heaps of oak mingling with Capsicum and mown hay balance the acidity. Good toasty oak in the background. lemons and limes. Nice aromas lift off the nose. cellaring potential. $18.99 Excellent balance of acid and palate - good fruit characters Vibrant palate shows good fruit on a palate with plenty and some smoky secondary varietal fruit nicely married to Xabregas Mount Barker of oak. $30 CD notes. Needs food. $25 a fine acid backbone. $20.99 Riesling 2010 HHHH Goose Chase Margaret Floral aromatics showing River Sauvignon Blanc zesty lemon lift. Quite Semillon 2010 HHHH sweet on front palate - very Sweaty fragrances of flavoursome, with excellent passionfruit, cut grass, herbs acidity and lovely freshness. and new-mown grass. Good Stylish wine. $17.99 acid zing to a palate with simple passionfruit flavours with a citric touch. $15142 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011chardonnay chardonnay2010 2009 & olderBrookland Valley Millbrook WineryMargaret River Limited Release WesternChardonnay Australia Chardonnay2010 HHHHH 2009 HHHHHMore of a savoury style, Another intense andwith a clean, lifted complex chardonnaycombination of citrus and exhibiting power andoak aromas and good weight richness with very goodand intensity of grapefruit depth of varietal fruit aromasand nectarine flavours with a and flavours, all nicelylong, oaky finish. $38 underscored by some greatFraser Gallop Estate cashew-like oak. $42Margaret River Windows EstateChardonnay 2010 HHHH Margaret RiverVery good wine with lovely Chardonnaylifted floral and tobacco-like 2009 HHHHHaromas. Obvious fragrant Excellent intense andoak on a long, citrusy complex example of apalate that has great flavour chardonnay that’s loadedintensity. $30 with beautiful grapefruitSomerset Hill Great and lemon-like varietalSouthern Unwooded fruit seamlessly integratedChardonnay 2010 HHHH with some incredible nuttyFull-flavoured, cool-climate toasty oak. $35wine - very fresh, withlovely creamy texture andexcellent citrus and pear-likevarietal fruit. Nice nuttycharacter. $19Houghton Streicker Ironstone 13 bottles to theMargaret River Block Old Vine Margaret dozen in addition toChardonnay 2010 HHHH River Chardonnay usual case discount.Flinty/meaty/tobacco aromas 2009 HHHH1/2with a light lemon touch. Intriguing, complex, mealy/ 13 bottles to theGreat palate structure with citrus bouquet. Great palate dozen in additiogood fruit and some residual has everything going for usual case discousugar with nice balance of it. It’s long and brimmingoak. $25 over with juicy grapefruit Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 143Willoughby Park characters well integratedChardonnay 2010 HHHH with the oak. $35Fuller, complex style; quitesavoury. Lemon freshnessand some wood andtoasty characters with aninteresting wild yeast-likeelement. $30 Vasse Felix Heytesbury Margaret River Chardonnay 2008 HHHH1/2 Bright buttery peach nose with supportive cashew- like oak and some malo elements. Full flavoured complex palate that is a delightful creamy blend of figs, melons, malt, citrus and cashews. $55

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 western australiaVoyager Estate Singlefile Estate Deep Woods Ebony cabernet sauvignonMargaret River Reserve Great Southern Margaret RiverChardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Evans and Tate2008 HHHH1/2 Nose a melange of melons, Shiraz 2009 HHHHH Redbrook Margaret RiverLovely complete and peaches and lemons, while Classic of this blend, Cabernet Sauvignoncomplex wine developing the palate is brimming over with dense mulberry and 2008 HHHH1/2richness and depth. Great with good clean flavours chocolate aromas and Dark red colour withlemon, pear and grilled nut edged with wild yeast a thread of vanilla-like cherry hues and intense,combination of aromas, characters. $44.95 characters. Voluptuous brooding, tarry aromas withand a long, well-balanced, palate with lovely flavours a hint of mint. Bright, mid-intensely flavoured palate. other red varietals of Black Forest cake and weight, fruit-driven palate Cherry Ripe. $14.95 with edgy tannins. One for 5+ $42 Lost Lake Barrel Fraser Gallop Estate the cellar. $37.99 Selection Pemberton Margaret River Cabernet Wills Domain ReservePlantagenet Great Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH Merlot 2009 HHHH Margaret River Cabernet Windance ReserveSouthern Chardonnay Good earthy varietal fruit with Bright, easy-drinking style Sauvignon 2008 HHHH Margaret River2008 HHHH some leathery notes and nice with lovely bright cassis Inky, oak-driven nose with Cabernet SauvignonSlightly funky, old-school spicy touches. Medium-length fruit and balancing oak with lots of blackberry fruit 2009 HHHHstyle of wine. “My big fat palate has warming alcohol tannins - “They creep up on underneath and some leafy Elegant, well-structuredGreek wedding” was how and stalky tannins. $35 you,” said one judge. $22 elements. Sweet and fleshy wine with hints of violetsone judge summed up this G.A. Hannett Premium Swings and Roundabouts in the mouth, with earthy and menthol on thebig, bold chardonnay. $28 Reserve Margaret River Margaret River Cabernet notes. $45 nose. Very pretty palate Malbec 2009 HHHH Sauvignon Merlot Ringbolt Margaret overflowing with brightUpper Reach Big, but well-balanced, wine 2009 HHHH River Cabernet varietal flavours. $40Reserve Swan Valley with a fresh and fragrant Oak-driven style with red Sauvignon 2008 HHHH Palandri Vita NovusChardonnay 2009 HHHH violet/berry bouquet and fruits overwhelmed for the Fine cassis fruit bouquet Margaret RiverSmells of lemons and barley nice savoury, toasty oak moment but showing lots with licorice and spice. Cabernet Sauvignonsugar and tastes of grilled palate with good berry fruit of potential. Tannins quite “Yummy flavours,” declared 2007 HHHHnuts and grapefruit with intensity. $50 grippy and chalky; some one judge. Tastes of plums Big style with loads ofa touch of residual sugar. Fermoy Estate alcohol heat. $19 and berries with chalky extracted fruit and a silky-Long and intense style of Margaret River Merlot Moombaki tannins. $24.95 smooth palate dense withwine. $28 2009 HHHH Great Southern Sandalford flavour. Fine-grained tannins Big wine with good fruit Cabernet Sauvignon Prendiville Reserve and some alcohol heat. $35Laurance Wines depth and structure. Cabernet Franc Malbec Margaret River Moss Wood MargaretMargaret River Smells and tastes of leafy 2008 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon River CabernetChardonnay 2009 HHHH blackberries, with silky- Tarry/charry aromas with a 2009 HHHH Sauvignon 2007 HHHHOld-school style showing smooth tannins on the brambly lift and chocolate Nicely evolved dark red wine Intense, chocolaty nose withrichness and texture. Lovely palate. $35 undertones. Sweet prune with an abundance of lovely a sprinkling of spices andvarietal fruit well balanced flavours on a palate with sweet, fleshy fruit showing some raspberry notes. Lushby some sweet malo and cabernet blends a tannic grip. Developing some green nuances and palate has long, complextoasty oak characters. $42 nicely. $29 just a hint of mint. $90 flavours and an earthy Flametree Margaret River Lost Lake texture. $N/ADevil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon Thompson Estate Pemberton CabernetMargaret River Merlot 2009 HHHHH Andrea Reserve Sauvignon 2009 HHHH shiraz blendsChardonnay 2009 HHHH Straightforward, long and Margaret River Cabernet Silky-smooth, seamlesslyLovely cool-climate juicy wine with nice varietal Merlot 2007 HHHH balanced cabernet with Devil’s Lair Dancecharacters of grapefruit, fruit characters of cherries Lovely silky-smooth wine massive hit of sweet dark with the Devil Margaretlimes and spices, well and raspberries showing a that’s a concoction of plums, fruit characters and well- River Shiraz Tempranillointegrated with cashew slight green edge and laced black olives and crushed matched amount of oak. $35 2009 HHHH1/2oak and malo-related with firm, supple tannins. Has blackberries sitting in a solid Barwick Estates Rich, ripe robust wine withundertones. 3-5 $45 quite an angular finish. $28 oak/acid framework. $38 Margaret River nose showing ripe fruit, Cabernet Sauvignon quality oak and a slight smokyPreveli Margaret River 2009 HHHH element. Palate full of sweetChardonnay 2009 HHHH Elegant, silky cabernet fruit flavours and lovelyPeachy/lime fruit aromas with aromas and flavours velvety-smooth tannins.seamlessly integrated with building with some air. Offers easy drinking. $24.99toasty oak characters. Tangy There’s plum and black Barking Owl Shirazpalate. Vibrant & elegant cherry fruit integrated well Viognier 2009 HHHH1/2with persistent flavours. with the oak. $19.99 Beautiful wine - great colour and lovely rich, ripe, sweet 3-5 $23.95 blackberry aromas with a spicy edge. Palate offers aRedgate Margaret River big mouthful of black jubeChardonnay 2009 HHHH flavours and excellent tanninDeveloped melon and cashew structure. $17.95aromas and a palate that hasa linear structure, with goodlees characters giving interestand texture. $35144 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 Matilda’s Estate Rosabrook Single Howard Park LestonDenmark Shiraz Vineyard Estate Margaret River ShirazCabernet 2009 HHHH Margaret River Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2Ripe, straightforward and 2009 HHHH Ripe, dark berry bouquetvery easy drinking style Medium-bodied shiraz with slightly raisinedwith simple dark berry fruit showing a lovely elegant characters, and a solid,aromas and bright and spicy structure and good length of savoury palate with lovelydark berry flavours. $18 ripe, blackberry-like varietal sweet varietal fruit and fruit supported by soft long, soft and subtle tanninshiraz 2009 tannins. $28 structure. $40 Fermoy Estate Margaret Palandri Vita NovusBeach Head By Credaro River Shiraz 2009 HHHH Frankland River &Margaret River Shiraz Very good, well put Margaret River Shiraz2009 HHHHH together, solid style of 2007 HHHH1/2Big, dark and very intense shiraz brimming over with Big, bright, youthful shirazwine with some lovely old intense dark berry fruits and loaded with very attractive,vine fruit obvious, exhibiting underscored by lovely soft ripe, spicy varietal fruittones of blackberry and tannins. $25 seamlessly integrated withspice. Lovely, lightly spicy Baldivis Estate the oak and firm but yieldingpalate with good weight of Frankland River Shiraz tannins. $35varietal fruit. $17 2009 HHHH Shepherd’s HutVoyager Estate Tight, bright and very Porongurup ShirazMargaret River Shiraz attractive wine with lovely 2007 HHHH2009 HHHHH prominence of peppery/ Big beauty with dark, broodingMedium-bodied, cool-climate spicy elements lifting off the fruit showing violet-likestyle. “At last, a really lovely simple confectionery fruit. highlights and well-matchedshiraz,” declared one judge. Well made. $15 by the vanillin oak. Lovely long,Black and brooding on the Xabregas Mount Barker lingering flavours. $22nose with a perfumed lift. Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shepherd’s Hut LimitedSoft and gentle in the mouth, Heady wine; deep, dense Release Porongurupwith loads of everything! $38 colour and very ripe, almost Shiraz 2007 HHHHGreedy Sheep raisined, aromas with a Dark and inviting wine thatMargaret River Shiraz dash of ground pepper. has balance and length and2009 HHHH1/2 Inky concentration of a ripe, plummy fruit bouquetVery good shiraz with flavours. $17.99 with pleasant spiciness andexcellent depth of varietal big, simple, ripe, sweetfruit and a nice touch of shiraz palate. $30quality oak. Perfect balance 2008 & older Western Range Limitedand incredible flavour length Release Chittering Perththat lingers long after the Hills Shiraz 2008 HHHHwine has gone. $20 Nice ripe style of shiraz with some very good dark berry fruit and very well managed oak to support it. Palate has plenty of weight and body. $30Paul Conti Mariginiup Palmer Margaret RiverWestern Australia Shiraz 2008 HHHHHShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 “A perfect shiraz!”Massive, warm-climate crowd according to one judge.pleaser of a shiraz. “Lots of It’s super-smart, very wellmoney spent here on some made, still very young, verytop-quality fruit and oak,” stylish and with everythingobserved one judge. $28 in balance, and the dark violet-like fruit shows just a hint of licorice. $23.50 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 145

queensland tasmania THE BEST WINES OF 2011other white other red sparkling other white varietalsvarietals & blends varietals & blends Granite Ridge Wines House of Arras Grand Riversdale Estate Top Block Cabernet Vintage Tasmania Crater Coal River Valley Sauvignon 2009 HHHHH Methode Traditionnelle Tasmania Chardonnay Excellent depth and purple 2003 HHHHH 2009 HHHHH hues. Lovely brambly, Light golden wine with Lovely toasty aromas with blackcurrant, plush, rich fruit a toasty/creamy yeast a bright, lemon-like edge. on nose and palate. Very nose and lovely lingering Refined, elegant and crisp stylish with some hints of complexity of flavours with palate with great texture, spearmint to accent. $25 attractive aged characters plenty of varietal flavour and plenty of crisp, citrusy length and phenolic fullness. acidity to balance. $70 Very good wine. $34.99 Tobin Wines Max Clover Hill Cuvee Pressing Matters Coal Shiraz 2009 HHHH Exceptionnelle Pipers River Valley Tasmania Medium colour with lovely River Blanc de Blancs Riesling 2006 HHHHH lifted spicy fruit. Mid-weight 2006 HHHH1/2 Very attractive example palate with good overall Bright and toasty nose with of this varietal, showing balance. $35 very attractive yeast autolysis lovely honeyed aged characters. Tight and toasty characters developingSirromet Wines Tobin Wines Max in the mouth, with great nicely. Palate still freshVineyard Selection Shiraz 2008 HHHH length of flinty, green apple- and bright, with seamlessVerdelho 2011 HHHH Bright red hues with red like flavours. $55 balance of fruit, acidity andA clean varietal verdelho. licorice and plum fruit Josef Chromy Tasmania aged characters. $29Tropical fruit with some aromas. Good weight and Methode Traditionnelle Pressing Mattersmusk notes on the nose. texture. Creamy finish NV HHHH1/2 RO Coal River ValleyClean fresh palate. An with soft acid and tannin Pale straw colour with Tasmania Rieslinginviting drink. $17 structure. $35 an attractive nutty/toasty 2009 HHHHH nose and a good persistent Subtle floral bouquet withClovely Estate Left Field bead. Lean, dry, citrusy a flinty edge. Very lemony/Semillon 2006 HHHH palate exhibits a good acid minerally defined palateA clean and fresh nose and level and has lovely flavour showing great intensity andpalate. Just starting to show intensity and length. $27 length of flavour. Nicelysome lovely aged semillon Jansz Premium structured and with antoastiness. $20 Rosé NV HHHH excellent spine of acidity. $29 Subtle strawberry and citrus Pressing Matters STAR RATINGS  bouquet, a very fresh red R9 Coal River Valley berry fruit palate and nice Tasmania Riesling Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of crisp, citrusy acid backbone 2009 HHHH1/2 excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. to balance. $24.95 Attractive aromas of citrus, All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Riversdale Estate with a sprinkling of baby professionals and are compared in peer Crux Coal River Valley powder-like characters. Very classes by three judges. Tasmania Sparkling pretty fruit palate with some CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, 2005 HHHH residual sugar all seamlessly a major mail-order business. Smells of sweet pear drops balanced by lovely acidity. $29 CD Cellar door price. and shows great length and Tamar Ridge Devils CDO Cellar door only. persistence of flavour on an Corner Tasmania Pinot SO Sold out. elegant palate edged with Grigio 2010 HHHH $N/A Price not available at time of printing. bright, yeasty notes. $30 Very pale, with some Pirie Tasmania delicate floral fragrances that  Contact information pg 174. Sparkling NV HHHH lead to a tight, crisp palate Fresh aromas of citrus with fine flavours of lemons RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). and green apples. and pear drops. $21 Refreshingly crisp palate146 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012 with nice combination of youthfulness, complexity and aged characters. $33

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 tasmaniaMoorilla Muse Tasmania Bream Creek Tasmania Freycinet Vineyard Freycinet Vineyard sweet whiteGewurztraminer Riesling 2008 HHHH Louis Tasmania Pinot Tasmania Pinot Noir2010 HHHH Limes lift off the nose and Noir 2009 HHHHH 2008 HHHH Tamar Ridge KayenaDelightfully intense floral/ fill the mouth, merging with Lovely complex wine with a Dense pungent/spicy Vineyard TasmaniaTurkish delight bouquet. apple juice-like characters to dense concentration of dark aromas and dark, brooding Botrytis Riesling 2009Soft in the mouth, with good create a lovely juicy mouthful chocolaty aromas matched and slightly aggressive (375ml) HHHHHstructure and nice varietal of varietal flavour. $23 with elegant varietal fruit. palate that’s big and Intense floral bouquet withfruit depth and weight. $35 Bream Creek Reserve Well-structured palate has complex and has a lovely gorgeous apricot-like botrytisBream Creek Tasmania Chardonnay attractive red fruit flavours savouriness. $55 characters. Very rich, lusciousTasmania Sauvignon 2005 HHHH and chewy oak. $28 Moorilla Muse varietal palate with excellentBlanc 2010 HHHH Complex, aged oak/fruit Riversdale Estate Series Tasmania Pinot flavour richness, depth andRipe and complex tropical characters to the nose. Coal River Valley Noir 2009 HHHH length held together bynose with a well-rounded, Plump in the mouth, with Tasmania Pinot Noir Complex, minty/chocolate vibrantly crisp acidity. $26slightly sweet, ripe fruit palate lovely fruit/oak flavour 2009 HHHH1/2 bouquet and lovely silky- Josef Chromy Tasmaniashowing grassy green fruit complexity and pleasant, Ripe cherry fruit bouquet textured palate with excellent Botrytis Riesling 2009flavours that linger on. $25 slightly oily, mouthfeel. $34 with subtle oak, hints of concentration of sweet varietal (375ml) HHHHJosef Chromy spice and developed, savoury fruit and good acidity. $49 Clean, fresh, spritzig limeTasmania Sauvignon pinot noir notes. Well-structured, Bay of Fires Tasmania aromas with touches ofBlanc 2010 HHHH meaty palate with slight Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH apricot botrytis characters.Pungent passionfruit of a Spring Vale Freycinet syrupy-like characters and Nice spicy character to The palate has weight, texturenose and a simple, lightweight Coast Tasmania Pinot supple tannins. $24.99 the nose, with secondary and plenty of flavour. “Icepalate that’s fresh and tasty Noir 2009 HHHHH characters starting to wine-like,” said one judge. $25with moderate acidity. Give it Mix of sweet raspberry and develop. Dense, tannic Pressing Mattersmore time to settle. $25 tangy cranberry aromas palate, soft in the mouth, R69 Coal River ValleyPooley Coal River Valley with subtle spicy/medicinal with lovely spiciness. $32 Tasmania RieslingRiesling 2009 HHHH notes. The lovely long 2009 HHHHAn austere flinty minerally palate has attractive flavours Lively and extremely prettystyle with excellent length, reminiscent of liqueur cherry wine showing excellentpersistence and intensity of confectionery. $40 balance between varietalfresh citrus fruit and lemon fruit, crisp acidity andpeel characters. $26 residual sweetness. $29charlotte peterswald 93 salamanca place, battery point, tasmania 7004 for property p: +61 3 6224 7090 w: charlottepeterswald.com‘Hoeyfield’ birchs bay, tasmania dreams are made of this 3.2 acres of garden & ‘Hoeyfield’, located within the tightly held, prestigious vineyard on the banks region on the banks of southern Tasmania’s of southern Tasmania’s D’Entrecasteaux Channel opposite the southern end D’Entrecasteaux of North Bruny Island, is about 44 kms from Hobart, Channel approximately 35 minutes by car.Buyers looking over $2,000,000 should enquire. With a striking easterly aspect & seductive water viewsContact John Remess 0418 345 388 or Brian Watchorn 0419 579 115 from just about every room, this home is naturally light filled & is positioned on a spectacular 3.2 acres of gardens & a vineyard producing top award winning pinot noir & chardonnay wine. The property flows down towards the waterfront, the foreshore & a quiet little beach, home to waterbirds with sea eagles nesting nearby. The spacious home is ideal for entertaining with living & dining areas flowing from the kitchen &, via glass doors, to a paved terrace overlooking the beauty & tranquillity of the Channel. Living is easy with formal & informal areas as well as self-contained guest accommodation in another wing. Generous outbuildings provide plenty of space for cars, equipment & storage. An old huge apple shed, about as big as a community hall, is ideal for large family functions & an extensive wine cellar further enhances this wonderful property. Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 147

Brancott vineyards, Marlborough.n ezwealan d THE BEST WINES OF 2011 CONTENTS Includes: Sparkling, Other White Varietals & Blends, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Other Reds, Pinot Noir, Merlot & Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends, Syrah, Sweet White.

NEW OPTIMISM DESPITE TROUBLING TIMES The New Zealand year in review, by Michael CooperTHE WORST OF THE OVERSUPPLY CRISIS IS OVER, nearly 70 per cent of the total crop. Wine sales are up, but that doesn’t mean all grape-growers and winemakers are making money. The averageaccording to Stuart Smith, chair of the board of directors of NZ price of grapes rose from $NZ1634 a tonne in 2002 to $NZ2161 in 2008,Winegrowers. “Three years ago, the NZ wine sector was reeling from before plummeting to $NZ1172 in 2011.the combined effects of the 2008 supply shock and the global financialcrisis. Today, excess inventory has been sold through and we have the St Helena, Canterbury’s oldest winery, founded in 1978, was placedconfidence to take in a record harvest based on anticipated demand. in liquidation earlier this year. The New Zealand Wine Company, whoseThat represents real progress,” he says. Smith acknowledges that wine key brands include Grove Mill, Sanctuary and Frog Haven, is strugglingprices are now lower and markets are tougher. “Things are not easy - but financially. After reporting a $NZ1.28 million profit in 2009, last year thewe are moving forward,” he says. company suffered a loss of nearly $NZ1.9 million. Its key problems have been the oversupply of New Zealand wine, cheap sales in bulk, and In support of that positive analysis, NZ Winegrowers can point to the strength of the New Zealand dollar. Mike Spratt, owner of Destinyencouraging trends. Exports have skyrocketed over the past decade, Bay, on Waiheke Island, and a director of New Zealand Winegrowers,from 23 million litres in 2002 to 89 million litres in 2008 - and a record has emerged recently as an outspoken personality in the wine industry’s155 million litres in 2011. The industry’s domestic sales have doubled internal politics. Spratt got involved because he “couldn’t agree with theover the past 10 years, from 33 million litres to 66 million litres. During analysis that things were going downhill due to over-production. How canthe same period, imports slumped from 42 million litres to 27 million litres the producer of 0.7 per cent of the world’s wine be so presumptuous as– the lowest level for a decade. to think that it is making too much? Doesn’t that sound absurd? We are under-marketing. We aim too low,” he says. Spratt says NZ should be However, problems remain. With Marlborough sauvignon blanc selling for “identifying who overseas will appreciate our unique, exclusive wines.”as little as $NZ6.99 and Waipara pinot noir at $NZ10, there’s no shortageof cheap wine on the market. This year, several producers closed their Instead, he says it is sold in supermarkets “to the people who want it for adoors or are struggling visibly to survive. That cut-throat discounting did not barbecue or to get pissed. And the pressure for bulk-wine sales is gettingstop the country’s growers producing their biggest-ever harvest in 2011. stronger and stronger”. What’s wrong with selling New Zealand wine in bulk?NZ Winegrowers described the huge vintage as a “response to rising sales of “Big wine producers like Italy can make bulk wine cheaply. We can’t. WeNZ wine…” But 30 per cent of the industry’s exports are of bulk, not bottled, have to be a niche marketer. New Zealand is in danger of repeating with winewine. The bumper crop, which exceeded the 2010 harvest by 23 per cent, what happened in the timber, wool, lamb, beef and milk industries – turningproduced an extra 4.3 million cases of wine to sell. a distinctive product into a commodity.” The 2011 harvest, at 9.8 tonnes of grapes/ha, the heaviest yielding for a Stuart Smith believes wine is entering a new phase globally. “New worlddecade, was “a real mixed bag,” according to a senior winemaker for one wines are no longer a novelty…. large retailers in established marketsof the country’s leading producers. As the vintage approached, March are enjoying unprecedented market share…. bulk wine exports, whichwas drier than usual in Marlborough but very wet in the North Island. In have been such a concern for NZ in recent years, are now a major trendApril, the key harvest month, the weather cooled in the eastern areas for the entire global wine trade,” he says. The industry organisation hasof both islands, bringing record April rainfall to Hawke’s Bay. Overall, commissioned a major independent strategic review of the NZ winewine regions in the middle of the country, Wairarapa, Marlborough industry and its own activities. On a positive note, overseas funds areand North Canterbury, appear to have fared better than those in flowing into the industry. Bill Foley, an American billionaire, snappedAuckland, Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay, where NZ Winegrowers concedes up Martinborough’s largest vineyard, Te Kairanga, in May. And has“weather issues were a feature”. the turmoil in the wine industry decimated the ranks of producers? Since 2008, the number of wineries in NZ has climbed from 585 to over In terms of regional production, Marlborough dominated, being the 700. All eyes are on China, where winegrowers have been given a keysource of over 75 per cent of the national grape crop. The harvest boost by the country’s Free Trade Agreement, signed in 2008. Hawke’swas bountiful in the South Island (exceeding 2010 by 34 per cent in Bay’s merlot and cabernet sauvignon-based reds are seen as the wineMarlborough and by a whopping 68 per cent in Waipara), but in the North style most likely to wow Chinese palates.Island, production dropped by 9 per cent in Hawke’s Bay and 21 per centin Gisborne. Sauvignon blanc was by far the key variety, accounting for Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 149

WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 new zealandsparkling other white Seifried Nelson Wurzer Rochfort Rees Saint Clair Wairau varietals & blends 2010 HHHH Marlborough Sauvignon Reserve MarlboroughAllan Scott Blanc de Rich, distinctly spicy Blanc 2010 HHHHH Sauvignon BlancBlancs Marlborough Passage Rock wine (wurzer is a cross Slightly nettley aromas. Very 2010 HHHH1/2Brut NV HHHHH Waiheke Island Viognier of gewurztraminer and punchy and vibrant, with Strong, ‘sweaty’ armpitRich, toasty, yeasty fragrance. 2010 HHHHH muller-thurgau) with a floral, concentrated tropical fruit and aromas. Crisp, tightCrisp, lively and concentrated, Complex style, fleshy and perfumed bouquet. Finely herbaceous flavours, showing passionfruit, melon and limewith fresh, citrusy, yeasty, layered, with concentrated, balanced, off-dry style with excellent freshness, richness flavours, very fresh andcomplex flavours and a well-ripened stone-fruit concentrated, ripe, apricot and harmony. Grown in the intense. Sweet-fruited, withfinely balanced, dryish, and oak flavours, slightly and spice flavours. $20 Awatere and Wairau valleys, excellent weight and length.lengthy finish (100% creamy and nutty. Rich and Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay it’s already delicious and a top Still a baby, with obviouschardonnay). $29.90 (A) tightly structured, with hints Verdelho 2010 HHHH buy. $18.95 potential. $33.50 (A, UK, US)Allan Scott of apricots and spices, it Pale, summery wine with Invivo MarlboroughCecilia Marlborough should unfold well. $35 lifted aromas of lemons Sauvignon Blanc Saint ClairBrut NV HHHH Villa Maria Cellar and apples and a vague 2010 HHHHH Marlborough SauvignonElegant, crisp and lively Selection Hawke’s Bay hint of nuts. Mouthfilling Punchy, dry style from the Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2blend of pinot noir and Viognier 2010 HHHHH and fresh, with strong, Awatere Valley with ripely Enjoyed by all judges.chardonnay, disgorged after Powerful, rich and complex youthful quince and lychee herbaceous aromas and Ripely scented and fleshy,18 months on its yeast lees. wine with finely integrated flavours and a slightly flavours, crisp and minerally. with fresh, concentrated,Citrusy, appley, moderately oak and beautifully sweet, mouth-wateringly Fresh and rich, with a long tropical fruit flavours andyeasty flavours and a tight- concentrated peach and crisp finish. $24 (UK) finish. $19 (A, UK) a well-rounded finish.knit, lingering finish. $26.50 spice flavours, tight, dry and Kim Crawford $21.50 (A, UK, US)Clayridge long. Floral, with hints of sauvignon blanc Marlborough Sauvignon Saint ClairSauvignon Blanc nutmeg, apricot and ginger. Blanc 2010 HHHHH Vicar’s Choicede Blancs 2010 HHHH Top buy at $24. Brightwater Nelson Ticks all the right boxes, with Marlborough SauvignonElegant, partly barrel- Villa Maria Single Sauvignon Blanc excellent balance of fresh Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2fermented style, scented Vineyard Omahu Gravels 2010 HHHHH tropical fruit and herbaceous Punchy, with rich, ripe tropicaland lively, with fruity, Viognier 2010 HHHHH ‘Sweaty’, ripe-fruit aromas. flavours, concentration, fruit flavours, woven withmoderately yeasty, finely Powerful, rich, obviously Weighty and well-rounded, acidity, drive and length. Very fresh acidity, and good vigourbalanced flavours, very crisp wood-influenced style, with rich, tropical fruit lively and intense, it’s highly and depth. Finely textured andand refreshing. $21 fermented and matured flavours, slightly oily and impressive, especially for lingering, offering excellentSaint Clair Vicar’s for 10 months in French concentrated. $20 (A, UK, US) such a large-volume label. value at $19.50. (A, US)Choice Marlborough oak barriques. Deep, Giesen The August 1888 $22.99 (A, UK, US) Brancott Estate ReserveSauvignon Blanc layered stone-fruit and nut Marlborough Sauvignon Nobilo Icon Marlborough SauvignonBubbles 2010 HHHH flavours, showing excellent Blanc 2009 HHHHH Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHHLifted, limey bouquet. Crisp complexity. $32 Barrel-fermented with Blanc 2010 HHHHH Crisp, dry and flavoursome,and lively, in an easy-drinking C.J. Pask Gimblett Road indigenous yeasts, this High impact, Awatere Valley with fresh, pure varietalstyle with strong, ripe, fruity Viognier 2010 HHHH1/2 powerful, complex wine style with strong, herbaceous characters, showing goodflavours, showing excellent Mouthfilling wine, made in is very fleshy, ripe and aromas leading into a weighty intensity. Tightly structuredfreshness, vivacity and drive, an unoaked style to celebrate rounded, with notably wine with crisp, vibrant melon and slightly minerally. $23.95a sliver of sweetness, and a its rich peach, apricot and concentrated tropical fruit and green capsicum flavours, Dashwoodlingering finish. $19.50 spice aromas and flavours. flavours, slightly nutty highly concentrated, minerally Marlborough SauvignonPalliser Estate Very fresh and finely and creamy, and loads of and long. $23.99 (A, UK, US) Blanc 2010 HHHHMartinborough balanced, with a persistent personality. $37 (A) Slightly minerally, appetisinglyMethode Traditionnelle finish. Top value at $19. Goldwater Mount Vernon crisp blend of Wairau and2006 HHHH TW PT’s Verdelho Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Awatere valley grapes, withSatisfying, fresh and lively 2010 HHHH1/2 Blanc 2010 HHHHH Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2 good intensity of melon/limewine with good weight, The third verdelho to be Wairau Valley style with Slightly ‘sweaty’, ripe-fruit flavours. Fresh, aromatic,vigour and harmony. produced in New Zealand slightly ‘sweaty’ aromas. aromas. Very easy-drinking lively and refreshing. GreatCrisp, yeasty, toasty was grown in Gisborne Mouthfilling, with fresh style, rich and rounded, buy at $16. (A, UK, US)flavours, showing excellent and made in a dry, barrel- melon, lime and capsicum with tropical fruit flavourscomplexity and richness. $35 fermented style. Scented flavours, a slightly oily showing excellent depth andDolbel Estate and weighty (14.5% alc), texture, lively acidity and fresh acidity keeping thingsMethode Traditionnelle creamy-textured, with rich, excellent ripeness, delicacy lively. (From Lawson’s Dry2006 HHHH ripe, tropical fruit flavours and length. $22 (A, UK, US) Hills.) A good buy at $17. (A)Straw-hued, with a rich, and a musky perfume.toasty bouquet, showing Excellent debut, alreadyflowers, nuts and bread delicious. $25characters and considerabledevelopment. Made froma 50/50 blend of barrel-fermented pinot noir andchardonnay, it is full-flavoured and dry, withstrong personality. $29.95150 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012